Feature: Bob Pierson Farmers’ Market Godfather

Photo: R. Kennedy, Courtesy of Visit Philadelphia

Farm to Philly

A pioneer in Philadelphia’s farm-to-table movement, Bob Pierson was instrumental in the creation of the beloved Headhouse Farmers’ Market.

By Suzanne Dreitlein

It’s easy to take our connection to history for granted, but our neighborhood is one of the oldest European settlements in America. Even before Swedish settlers arrived in 1638, the indigenous Lenape called Queen Village a “pleasant place.”

For centuries, the heart of a neighborhood was its gathering place—the market—where those who produce food and wares bring their goods to those who don’t, along with news and much welcome social interaction.

When you visit present-day Headhouse Farmers’ Market, you are literally walking through more than 250 years of history. Originally established by Joseph Wharton and Edward Shippen in 1745, “New Market” brought food and a variety of products to the rapidly growing population of Society Hill. In the following years, the plaza would grow to more than two blocks long and become a more solid entity with the brick arcade we’re familiar with today and two “headhouses” being erected at both ends, one of which still exists. During this time, the market, and neighboring buildings, would grow

to be the center of a vibrant and diverse neighborhood.

The first of now more than 30 modern producer-only outdoor farmers’ markets in Philadelphia opened in 1996 at South and Passyunk by Queen Village resident Bob Pierson, Howard Lander, Frank Hobson, and other neighbors. The South Street Headhouse District and Queen Village Neighbors Association supported their efforts. That success got Pierson a job with the Food Trust to set up its community market program. “In 1999, we looked for new market sites,” Pierson says, “and I looked into the one that was closest to me here, which was Headhouse, but there was a craft fair there at that time. So we set up the market on Second Street from Lombard to South Street.”

Pierson’s interest in farm-to-table, and the role farmers’ markets play in that model, started from his childhood in Bucks County. His father was a landscape architect who later went into city planning and had a keen interest in saving farmland. A seed was planted in Pierson to find how to incentivize small farmers to keep their farms—and farmers’ markets offered a solution. “It saves farmland. People get fresher food. The farmers get to know the people they’re growing their food for and the customers get to know the farmers,” Pierson says, adding, “the other benefit is that the food producers sell directly to the customers and net almost the full customer dollar. Other ways they sell usually give a much lower return.” This economic incentive for the farmers is key to having a successful market and helps sustain the farmers’ market

The drawing by Frank H. Taylor shows the New Market head house in the 1920s. In the background is the old mansion of John Ross. Courtesy of The Library Company of Pennsylvania.

Photos: R. Kennedy, Courtesy of Visit Philadelphia as well as their small farms and the agricultural lifestyle.

“What’s surprising is how quickly it’s grown,” Pierson says. When he started his first market at South and Passyunk, they sold $40,000 of food the first year. Now, Pierson’s farm-to-city programs account for over $5 million in annual sales by farmers and food artisans, which ensures there are enough people to coordinate and run the markets.

Over the past two years, COVID-19 presented a chance to re-evaluate our relationship to food and how we obtain it. Outdoor markets have offered people a well-ventilated alternative to indoor shopping and a chance to see neighbors—a welcome respite from isolation. When buying directly from farmers, food has less of a chance to get caught up in a supply chain quagmire and, thus, potential shortages. Additionally, our weekly Headhouse Farmers’ Market, which we’ve grown accustomed to over the past decade, is a touchpoint of normalcy when so much has changed.

The Headhouse Farmers Market continues to be managed by the Food Trust and features produce and food products that are locally sourced, locally produced, and aligned with what the customers are looking for, thanks to an annual survey.

In addition, says Meghan Filoromo, senior associate of the Farmers Market Program, “on behalf of the farmers and vendors, the Food Trust accepts SNAP/EBT benefits (state-funded and approved nutritional assistance) and distributes Food Bucks (fruit and vegetable coupons). What many people don’t know is that you can use SNAP/EBT benefits to purchase food-producing seeds and starts. At this time of year, many farmers are selling a variety of seeds and starts.”

During the winter months through

May 1, the Headhouse Farmers’ Market runs on a winter schedule, every Sunday from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. In May, the normal schedule—10 a.m. to 2 p.m.—resumes.

A full list of hours and vendors, plus their distance from Philadelphia, is located at thefoodtrust.org/farmers-markets/ market/headhouse. Check out the option to order online and pick up on market day at Headhouse.

With the varied options for payment (SNAP/EBT/P-EBT cards, Food Bucks, WIC, and vouchers for Senior Farmers Market Nutrition Program (FMNP), credit cards, and, of course, cash), there is no reason not to head over to the weekend market at Headhouse and enjoy Bob Pierson’s vision for modern-day farm-to-table for everyone. ■

Photo: Nancy Brokaw

WALK & TALK TOUR

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