Out and About

Top: Chef-owner Missoum Khemici with a memento of Mama Frusone. Above: An Italian classic, mussels in red sauce. Gnocchi’s namesake dish.

Passion on Passyunk

Two neighborhood eateries hit all the right notes.

By Michael and Cait Allen

Gnocchi, 613 E. Passyunk St.

Chef-owner Missoum Khemici taught music in his home country before coming to the United States. He landed his first job at the legendary Ristorante San Carlo under the watchful eye of Mama Frusone. “I cleaned the pots,” Missoum says, “and the next day, people thought someone bought new ones! She was very impressed.” Because of her, he learned Italian along with English.

Mama Frusone would come in early and make the pasta by hand. She liked when Missoum helped. Soon, the family invited him to work the dining room. “At first, I was terrified,” he says. “I was so shy and nervous, I stood in the corner.” But after taking the leap, he learned he loved his relationship with customers. “I want to know what makes you happy,” he says. “I want you to feel comfortable, like you are at a good friend’s house."

We ask for the chef’s tasting menu, which begins with a tart and lemony Caesar salad. It’s clean-plate addictive. Next, there are waves of primi courses: burrata, meatballs, mussels in red sauce, gnocchi in three styles. As we reflect on their perfect balance, Missoum compares music and cooking. “Food is delicate. One wrong note can ruin a composition, and one wrong flavor can ruin a dish.” True. With the meatballs, the seasoned meat and sauce do-si-do and bow to their partner. One never upstages the other. It’s a lot to ask of a meatball, but, son, it delivers!

A 96-year-old Italian matriarch sits at a nearby table. Missoum tells us with a huge smile, “She just declared that my food is better than hers! I was wondering what she would think.” It feels like the finale of a symphony, and we are on our feet. Bravo, Missoum! No, bravissimo!

Keshet Kitchen, 705 E. Passyunk St.

Upon entering Keshet (which means “rainbow” in Hebrew), we meet manager Abraham Bloom, who is fielding an avalanche of calls. He co-owns this little promised land with Chef Sharon Shvarzman and Sharon’s longtime friend, Morissa Schwartz.

At close of business, we get some quiet time with them, and we ask Sharon about his culinary inspiration. He tells us about his restaurant family and master-chef grandfather, who brought authentic Israeli comfort food to Brooklyn. “Pots and pans were my first toys!” Sharon says. But when his grandfather became ill and passed away, his family drifted apart. Turning bittersweet, Sharon admits that the relationship with his grandfather was a difficult one. “I embraced cooking,” he says, “as a way to reconnect with him and get back lost time.” After developing his own style, he gathered his family back together. “They compared my food to my grandfather’s,” he says smiling, “and I knew I was on the right path!”

Sharon won Food Network’s The Great Food Truck Race. As clips play overhead, Abraham declares, “Sharon is the sauce boss.” We quickly learn how true that is. No joke, there are seven of them—all unique masterpieces. Why so many sauces, you ask? Well, let’s start with the chicken wings. “We brine them for days,” Sharon says. “Taste them first with no sauce!” We do, and we are shocked at the rich flavor. “Now try the sauces! Try the habanero apricot! Now try the honey garlic!” Sharon is having a blast—he’s radiating glee. “I love people's reactions,” he says. “That's why I do it. I love making people happy!”

The signature chicken tenders follow. More sauces. Then the braised short rib, the heart-warming pot roast, and the special mac and cheese. Everything has intriguing touches of flavors from across the Mediterranean. When the desserts come, we need to sit down. There is a rice pudding with rose water and date chutney. If cooking truly is music, this dessert is a Mozart melody. Next, the famous saffron, pistachio, almond, cardamom, and mango cheesecake. No words. “We want to deliver five-star restaurant food without the price,” Sharon says. Honestly, there aren’t enough stars to give Sharon! ■

The rose water vanilla pudding, garnished with roasted pistachios. Chef Sharon Shvarzman with a trayful of borekas.