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RAQUEL WELCH AS AMERICAN SKYDIVER FATHOM HARVILL, 1967
The iconic W12 Engine send off. Available in the Bentayga Speed. Find your extraordinary at BramanBentleyPalmBeach.com or visit us at 2801 Okeechobee Boulevard, West Palm Beach or call 561-564-0715. The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2023 Bentley Motors, Inc. Model shown: Bentayga Speed. The iconic W12 Engine send off. Available in the Bentayga Speed. Find your extraordinary at BramanBentleyPalmBeach.com or visit us at 2801 Okeechobee Boulevard, West Palm Beach or call 561-564-0715. The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ in wings device are registered trademarks. © 2023 Bentley Motors, Inc. Model shown: Bentayga Speed.
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The iconic W12 Engine
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RAQUEL WELCH: FEARLESS FEMME Elizabeth Quinn Brown delivers the compelling story of the brazen and voluptuous brunette screen siren—a high school honors student and four time divorcée who never gave up and never gave in, and who will always be remembered for her iconic looks, dignity, and strength.
KARL LAGERFELD: A LINE OF BEAUTY Alexander Hankin details the Costume Institute’s Met Gala and latest exhibiton, which Met curator Andrew Bolton described as a unique tribute to the late designer’s life’s work.
CELEBRATING THE HISTORY & HERITAGE OF BURBERRY
Janie Pierrepont reviews Assouline’s Burberry, tracking the evolution of the brand from its founding as a family-run company in 1856, to its current position as a global heritage brand.
ZADÚN: A WELLNESS OASIS IN LOS CABOS Brooke Kelly Murray travels to San Jose del Cabo to review Zadún, the latest North American gem in the Ritz-Carlton Reserve portfolio.
BEAUTY CHAT: EXPERTS TALK “OZEMPIC FACE” TO RIPE GRAPE & SUMMER GLOW-UP TIPS Micaela English weighs in on Semaglutides with experts in the fields of skincare, dermatology, and plastic surgery, and also provides alternative solutions for plump, glowing, taut skin ahead of summer.
LONDON’S LEGENDARY CLUB TURNS 60 Brooke Kelly Murray reflects on the fabled club situated in London’s tony Mayfair district in anticipation of its upcoming 60th birthday bash on June 8th.
THE BEST OF THE FALL/WINTER 2023 SHOWS Brooke Kelly Murray and Elizabeth Meigher round up the best looks from the Fall-Winter 2023 runway shows seen during New York Fashion Week in February.
Raquel Welch stars as skydiver Fathom Harvill in British spy comedy film Fathom, 1967 (Moviestore Collection Ltd/Alamy Stock Photo).
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Q 18/ SUMMER 2023 CONTENTS SUMMER 2023
HEXAGONAL VASE COLLECTION
SEASON RESIDENCY AT THE COLONY HOTEL, PALM BEACH
NOSTALGIA From poolside backgammon at Oscar Obregon’s Villa Nirvana in Acapulco in 1972, to Nico and Andy Warhol living it up at Cannes in 1967, a fond look back at summers past.
JEWELRY Shine bright this summer in something sparkly!
SWIMWEAR Look your best at the beach in these colorful new bikinis and one-pieces.
SUNGLASSES Stay cool in the shade with an array of new designs from top designers.
SHOES Step in style with our assortment of shoes and sandals.
ACCESSORIES Smart accessories are the key to differentiating any great ensemble.
CLUTCHES AND HANDBAGS Colorful clutches and attractive handbags will help you soar this summer and far into the future.
MEN’S APPAREL Take a cue from actor Dustin Hoffman and opt for a ’70s inspired tailored vest and matching jacket.
Q FOCUS All of the best parties from Save Venice’s enchanting Un Ballo in Maschera at The Plaza, to Central Park Conservancy’s Women’s Committee’s colorful “Hat Luncheon” in Central Park.
BEAUTY The best in beauty serums, sunless tanners, revitalizing hair treatments, and fresh summer fragrances.
EVENING LOOKS Follow Audrey Hepburn’s lead and feel pretty in pink this summer.
SHOPPING INDEX Find all of the nifty pieces on these pages.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE 29 42 108
32 Q 20/ SUMMER 2023
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© QUEST MEDIA, LLC 2023. All rights reserved. Vol. 19, No. 2. Q–Quintessential Style is published quarterly, 4 times a year. Yearly subscription rate $32.00. Two-year rate $50.00. Q, 420 Madison Avenue, 8th floor, New York, NY 10017. 646.840.3404 fax 646.840.3408. For address changes, please call: 646.840.3404. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Q–Quintessential Style, 420 Madison Avenue, 8th floor, New York, NY 10017. SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES Call 646.840.3404 LINDA LANE SOPER 612.308.4159 PALM BEACH
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Buying, Selling & Collecting Since 1868
Buying, Selling & Collecting Since 1868
Graduated Diamond Riviere Necklace, Circa 1900
Greenleaf & Crosby
Graduated Diamond Riviere Necklace, Circa 1900
Greenleaf & Crosby Estate Collection
Glamour is back in fashion! It’s a thrill to see people excited to dress up, look elegant, and venture out again. Few spell glamour quite like Raquel Welch did. The voluptuous brunette swept onto the scene in the 1960s with her cascading layers of auburn hair and barely-there ensembles. She was the Swinging ’60s’ response to the prim, blushing blondes of the 1950s. Yes, she had beauty and a terrific figure, but confidence was the real key to Raquel’s success. Divorced with two children, Welch moved to Hollywood at the age of 23 to become a star—in less than three years she had achieved superstardom.
Curvaceous and empowered, 26-year-old Raquel grabbed the spotlight with her defiant, alert-to-everything, take-no-prisoners attitude. Despite her bikini-clad appearances in numerous films, Welch never appeared nude in pictures or in movies. “I am my father’s daughter, and that’s just not the way you behave,” she said. Perhaps Welch’s unwillingness to bear it all added to her intrigue, but it was more than that. Raquel was savvy—and she was funny! Welch famously starred in the 1967 British spy comedy, Fathom, and won a Golden Globe for her role as a klutzy Frenchwoman in Richard Lester’s 1973 adaptation of The Three Muskateers Q contributor Elizabeth Quinn Brown delivers the compelling story of Jo Raquel Tejada—the high school honors student and fourtime divorcée who never gave up and never gave in, and who will always be remembered for her iconic looks, dignity, and strength. Speaking of strong and empowered women, the theme pervaded the runways of the Fall/Winter 2023 runways. With his latest collection Wes Gordon envisioned the Carolina Herrera woman transforming into modern royalty, like Empress Elizabeth of Austria (“Empress Sisi”) centuries earlier. He identified with Sisi because “the same combination is what made Mrs. Herrera, and what made the house—that discipline and severity with the flamboyance.” American fashion maestro Michael Kors designed a collection in homage to leading style icons of the 1970s: Gloria Steinem, Ali MacGraw, Cher, Tina Turner, Lena Horne, Jane Fonda..., stating “The women who intrigued me then and still intrigue me today are the women who break the rules”. Alice + Olivia referenced Truman Capote’s ever elegant and unflappable swans, and Cynthia Rowley invited some of the biggest names in female stand-up comedy to perform live on her stage. The Met Gala returned on the first Monday in May with its annual celebration of the Costume Institute’s latest exhibition, dedicated to the late Karl Lagerfeld. Alexander Hankin details the ball and the exhibit, which Met curator Andrew Bolton described as a unique tribute to the designer’s life’s work rather than a retrospective. Most guests of the ball wore either a Lagerfeld original, or had something made in a nod to his craft. Others thought outside of the box—like actor Jared Leto and singer Doja Cat, both of whom dressed up as Lagerfeld’s beloved Birman white feline, Choupette.
2023 marks the 60th anniversary of Annabel’s—the fabled club in London’s tony Mayfair district that has played host to the crème de la crème of society, from the Beatles and the Rolling Stones to Leonardo DiCaprio and Princess Diana. Managing Editor Brooke Murray reflects on the legendary hot spot in anticipation of its upcoming birthday. On June 8th Annabel’s will celebrate 60 years as London’s leading destination to entertain and be entertained with, what else? An extravagant bash. For more British style, head to Janie Pierrepont’s piece on Assouline’s Burberry, tracking the evolution of the brand from a family-run company founded in 1856, to a leader in global luxury fashion.
To look your best in all of the clothes, suits, shoes, and accessories featured throughout this issue, catch Q’s wellness authority Micaela English’s latest article. Micaela weighs in on Semaglutides (commonly known as Ozempic, Wegovy, and Rybelsus) with leading experts in the fields of skincare, dermatology, and plastic surgery. Micaela provides solutions about how to escape the pitfalls of “Ozempic Face”, and also offers alternative solutions for plump, glowing, taut skin just in time for summer! u
ELIZABETH MEIGHER EDITOR
EDITOR’S LE TTER QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
Counterclockwise from top right: Burberry gabardine trench Burberry (Assouline); Paul Morelli Turquoise Sequence Pendant; Raquel Welch by Terry O’Neill, 1970; Wempe 18k white gold and diamond hoop earrings; Rocío Coco Clutch in Cream; Karl Lagerfeld and Claudia Schiffer walk Chanel’s Haute Couture FW92/93 runway; Verdura Dogwood Cuff of moonstones and sapphires set in black jade and 18k gold; Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, 1961;
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The Charlotte Inn’s old-world ambiance is a reflection of the Edwardian-era. Made up of seventeen guest rooms and two suites, the original 1864 house, The Summer House, Carriage House, and Coach House. Tucked away on a side street in downtown Edgartown, the inn is filled with collections of fine art, surrounded by classic gardens, and furnished with English antiques.
Elizabeth Quinn Brown > Elizabeth Quinn Brown is a freelance writer and editor, covering culture, design, travel, and style. Her work has appeared in publications like Architectural Digest, Billboard, Grazia UK, GQ, and The Wall Street Journal. She resides in Los Angeles, California, with her family and her French Brittany, Gemma. The former features editor of Quest and Q returns this issue to remember Raquel Welch, the brazen, fur-bikini-clad brunette bombshell who swung onto the scene in the 1960s and is fondly remembered for never giving up and never giving in.
< Micaela English Micaela English is a writer, storyteller, creator, and the director of copy and editorial at J.McLaughlin. Living in Brooklyn, NY, she launched her career in magazines. After six years at Town & Country, she departed as senior web editor to work in digital storytelling for brands like Anthropologie and Fresh. She’s been published in InStyle, Elle, Architectural Digest, Marie Claire, and Town & Country. In this issue, Micaela weighs in on Semaglutides (commonly known as Ozempic, Wegovy, and Rybelsus) with experts in the fields of skincare, dermatology, and plastic surgery.
Janie McGraw Pierrepont > Janie McGraw Pierrepont is a creator, writer, and tastemaker living in New York City. She graduated from Wake Forest University and studied communication and film studies. With her passion for fashion and travel, she is very excited to be contributing to Quest and Q magazines. In this issue, she deep dives into Assouline’s Burberry Featuring 200 illustrations and five chapters, the new book discusses the rich history of the global fashion brand, dating back to 1856, and celebrates the company’s extraordinary heritage. Think inspiring explorers, signature trench coats, and a distinct British identity.
< Alexander Hankin Alexander Mason Hankin of Bucks County, Pennsylvania is a third-generation real estate developer at Hankin Management Company, as well as an art world aficionado. Hankin’s passion for the arts has led him to take on leadership roles in major art institutions, including the Museum of Arts and Design and Aspen Art Museum. Hankin has been a contributor on art in various publications, including Philadelphia Style Magazine, Gotham, and Guest of a Guest, and is now thrilled to be contributing for Quest. For this issue of Q, he discusses The Met’s new exhibition, Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty
Brooke Kelly Murray > Brooke Kelly Murray is the Managing Editor of Quest and Q magazines. In this issue, she reviews New York Fashion Week’s February runway shows, and looks back on the history of Annabel’s in London as the club prepares to celebrate its 60th birthday. She also travels to San Jose del Cabo to review Zadún, the latest North American gem in the Ritz-Carlton Reserve portfolio. Also not to be missed are Brooke’s selection of fashion accessories; her coverage of parties; or her roundup of the best new beauty products.
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@shopcharlottekellogg @charlottekellogg Designed for the luxury resort lifestyle Inspired by world travel www.charlottekellogg.com CHARLOTTE KELLOGG Palm Beach | Naples | Newport
Photo Credit: Tara Inc, Photography
A Colorful Approach to Classic Design
Helmed by award-winning designer Gil Walsh, GW Interiors marries classic design principles and risk-taking execution to create a timeless space inspired by a life well lived, so you can live colorfully.
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SUMMER 2023/ Q 29 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE NOSTALGIA >
ACTIVITIES Slim Aarons/Hulton Archive/Getty Images
Poolside backgammon! Guests photographed by Slim Aarons lounging at Oscar Obregon’s Villa Nirvana in Las Brisas, Acapulco, Mexico, 1972.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE NOSTALGIA 2 1 4 5 3 Q 30/ SUMMER 2023
Janus Films; CBS Photo Archive/Getty Archive; Universal PicturesAlamy; Bert Morgan Archive; Slim Aarons/Hulton Archive/Getty Images
This page: 1. Nico and Andy Warhol (front row) with an entourage including Susan Bottomly (back right) at Cannes Film Festival, 1967. 2. Audrey Hepburn peers in the window of Tiffany’s in the opening scene of Breakfast at Tiffany’s, 1961. 3. Carrie Fisher and John Belushi on the set of The Blues Brothers, 1980. 4. Wendy Vanderbilt attends the Peter Duchin Dinner Dance for the International Rescue Committee at New York City’s St. Regis Hotel, 1961. 5. A diver talks to a girl seated in a wicker chair on a beach in the Bahamas, 1967. > Opposite page: 1. Stephanie Seymour reclines on a green director’s chair bearing the name of her husband Peter Brant’s polo team, White Birch. 2. Friends prepare for a day of snorkelling by Andros Island in the Bahamas, 1957. 3. Sharon Tate and Roman Polanski in Cannes, 1968. 4. Guests attend a party at the home of Sebastiano Bergese in Marbella, Spain, 1967. 5. Sean Connery rides a bicycle in between takes of Alfred Hitchcock’s Marnie, 1964.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE NOSTALGIA 4 2 5 1 3 SUMMER 2023/ Q 31 Gilles Bensimon; Slim Aarons/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; Gilbert TOURTE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images; Slim Aarons/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; Courtesy of Angel City Press
was one of the leading photographers of the 1950s and 1960s. Like his contemporaries Richard Avedon and Irving Penn, Stern pioneered a new photographic aesthetic, preferring uncluttered and emotionally direct images that strove not only to showcase the human figure but also to capture a sense of the subject’s psychology. “What makes a great model is her need, her desire; and it’s exciting to photograph desire,” Stern once said. Stern famously captured Marilyn Monroe in The Last Sitting, the actress’s last group of portraits taken six weeks before her death. Above, Stern photographs a model wearing a multi-strand pearl choker in “Evening Looks” for Vogue in 1962.
Q 32/SUMMER 2023 7 JEWELRY QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
1. VHERNIER Aladino Ring in White Gold and Diamonds totaling 5.7 carats, $41,300 at bergdorfgoodman.com. 2. COMPLETEDWORKS Sterling Silver Crystal, Pearl Drop Earrings, $430 at modaoperandi.com. 3. ROLEX By its very name, the Cosmograph Daytona is linked to motor sport. Featured is the Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, 40mm, in Oystersteel and yellow gold, available at Wempe, 700 Fifth Ave., or call 212.397.9000. 4. NIKOS KOULIS Together Burst Ring with Diamonds and Emeralds in Two-Tone 18k Gold, $24,240 at bergdorfgoodman.com. 5. KWIAT Bangle with Mixed Shape Diamonds in 18k white gold, kwiat.com. 6. WEMPE Basic Hoop Earrings in 18k white gold, 96 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 1.00 ct, 10 mm diameter, $4,515 at wempe.com. 7. RALPH LAUREN Crystal Pendant Necklace of silver-plated brass and crystals, 16.5” with a lobster-clasp closure, $1,995 at ralphlauren.com.
an elite group of models—known in the industry as “the supers”— who became worldwide celebrities, increasingly dominating both the high-fashion runways and the global media. As the supermodel era winded down, Turlington returned to school, earning dual degrees in Eastern philosophy and comparative religion from New York University (1999). She proceeded to found her own company, Turly Inc., and launch a string of products and services that included yoga-inspired clothing and day spas.
1. OSCAR DE LA RENTA Carryover Candydrop Earrings of pewter with glass crystals in Amethyst Multi, $420 at neimanmarcus.com. 2. LUGANO Columbian Emerald & Diamond Ring of a baguette cut 6.3-carat emerald and 8-carat diamond side stones encased in titanium with brilliant round diamonds. Visit luganodiamonds.com. 3. HOORSENBUHS 18k Yellow Gold Revere Ring with White Diamonds, $7,500 at bergdorfgoodman.com. 4. VERDURA The Dogwood Cuff, inspired by the original Maltese Cuffs that launched Verdura’s career in 1930 and the iconic Dogwood Brooch he designed in 1943, of moonstones and sapphires set in 18k gold and black jade, $65,000 at verdura.com. 5. MONICA RICH KOSANN Yellow Gold & White Ceramic Link Bracelet $8,850 at bergdorfgoodman.com. 6. GRAZIA E MARICA VOZZA Flower Charm of Labradorite, rhodochrosite, mother-of-pearl and peridots set in 14k yellow gold on a woven silk cord, $5,030 at bergdorfgoodman.com. 7. PAUL MORELLI Turquoise Sequence Pendant in 18k yellow gold with 8mm sleeping beauty spheres, 18” long with a lobster-clasp closure, $5,000 at paulmorelli.com. 8. POMELLATO Maxi Iconica Colour Ring of stones set in 18k rose gold, $7,800 at pomellato.com.
SUMMER 2023 / Q 33 Arthur Elgort 7 8 JEWELRY QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
Natalie Wood With her expressive brown eyes, petite frame, and bouncing brunette bob, Natalie Wood was a shoe-in for Hollywood. After launching her carrer at age 4, she earned a co-starring role in Miracle on 34th Street at age 8—before turning 25 she had earned three Oscar nominations for her turns in Rebel Without A Cause , Splendor in the Grass , and Love with the Proper Stranger. When she died at age 43 under myseterious circumstances aboard her husband Robert Wagner’s yacht, few Hollywood tragedies have been debated with quite the same level of fervour. She is immortalized as a ’60s icon through her films and photos.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE SWIMWEAR
Silver Screen Collection/Getty Images) 1
1. CAMILLA Part of the “From the Moon and Back” collection, this one-piece swimsuit is finished with structured padded cups and mixed feather and chain prints; $429 at saksfifthavenue.com. 2. ZIMMERMANN Style the Raie Chain Link Bandeau 1PC with a flat sandal and a tote to your next day by the water; $320 at zimmermann.com. 3. ALOHA MARINA The reversible Hana Bikini is green with floral print on one side and blue on the other and features an adjustable triangle top and bottom with self-tie fastenings; $110 at alohamarina.com. 4. VILEBREQUIN Flowers get an aqua tint on the Flowers Tie & Dye Print women’s one-piece swimsuit; $310 at vilebrequin.com. 5. SHOSHANNA Shell Texture Clean Triangle Top ($162) and Shell Texture Clean Triangle Bottom ($150); visit shoshanna.com. Zig-Zag Asymmetric Two-Piece Bikini Set; $560 at bergdorfgoodman.com.
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William Helburn was an American fashion photographer best known for his contributions to advertising’s creative revolution in the 1950s and 1960s and his editorial work for magazines like Bazaar, LIFE, Town & Country, and Esquire. Over the course of his career, Helburn won more than 46 professional awards for magazine and television ads. Pictured above is model Cay Sanderson wearing checkered sunglasses and a polka dot bikini in “Polka Dots II”, 1968.
Q 36/ SUMMER 2023 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE SUNGLASSES
1.CELINE Monochrome Acetate Butterfly Sunglasses; $440 at celine.com.
2. J.MCLAUGHLIN Be chic in the shade in J.McLaughlin’s oversized cat’s eye Chiara Polarized sunglasses in Tortoise; $138 at jmclaughlin.com.
3. BOTTEGA VENETA Dramatic Acetate Cat-Eye Sunglasses; $440 at bottegaveneta.com. 4. CARTIER Rimless Geometric Metal Sunglasses; $1,095 at cartier.com. 5. KHAITE X OLIVER PEOPLES 1971C Round Acetate & Plastic Sunglasses; $482 at neimanmarcus.com.
1 5 2 4
Step In Style
Serge Balkin was an award-winning fashion photographer who worked for Condé Nast for over 20 years. Frequently published in the likes of Vogue Glamour , and House &
SUMMER 2023/ Q 37 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE SHOES
1. VALENTINO GARAVANI Roman Stud Ankle-Strap Sandals in Rose Cannelle; $1,150 at valentino.com. 2. FENDI Streamlined and feminine Colibrì Lite slingbacks in silver mesh with narrow elastic ribbons that wrap around the foot; $1,250 at fendi.com.
3. MANOLO BLAHNIK Carolyne Leather Low-Heel Slingback Pump in Light Beige; $795 at bergdorfgoodman.com.
4. PRADA Crochet Flatform Slides in Natural; $1,150 at prada.com.
5. GABRIELA HEARST Alexandria Leather Platform Sandals in Tonic Orange; $1,150 at gabrielahearst.com.
Twiggy Schoolgirl Lesley Hornby’s friends and family nicknamed her “Twiggy” on account of her slender frame. Recognized then and now by that single moniker, Twiggy burst onto the scene of London’s Swinging ’60s at just 16 years old. Her big blue eyes set in fantastic black lashes and signature pixie cut quickly became all the rage and made her “the Face of 1966”. Here, the blonde supermodel is captured by Richard Avedon dressed in Marc Bohan for Christian Dior’s 1968 Spring/Summer collection.
Q 38/ SUMMER 2023
This boho Hollyhock Sun Hat by Sarah Bray Bermuda is woven with all-natural palm tree leaves and features a Peacock Blue Long Journey to Ibiza with Assouline’s new Ibiza Bohemia - Travel From Home Candle; $80 at assouline.com. Set of Three Hermès Rocabar Mugs in porcelain and decorated using chromolithography; $600 at hermes.com. 4. J.MCLAUGHLIN Be the envy on and off the court with J.McLaughlin’s Pickleball Paddles in Coco Plum with 15% of proceeds from each paddle sold benefiting Play for P.I.N.K.; $110 at jmclaughlin.com. The Grand Tour Set includes two best sellers—the spill-proof EcoCraft Canvas and the Grand Tour duffle; $730 at paravel.com. 6. CHANEL J12 Watch Calibre 12.2, 33 mm in white highly resistant ceramic and steel; more information at chanel.com. 7. AKRIS Frayed Cashmere-Silk Scarf; $995 at us.akris.com.
ACCESSORIES 2 6 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE 3 4 7
Sean Connery will go down in history as the dashing and handsome Scottish actor best known for portraying James Bond in the widely acclaimed movie franchise, starring in seven films between 1962 and 1983. Although Connery’s 007 was frequently seen wearing a tuxedo or a navy doeskin blazer with flannel trousers, above the British secret agent sports a more comfortable ensemble in the Bahamas for his meeting with “Q” (Quartermaster Major Boothroyd ) in 1965’s Thunderball.
1. ALOHA MARINA Hana Board Short in green; $150 at alohamarina.com. The Men’s Wallace Dogs Socks feature ribbed cuffs that prevent slipping; $30 at paulsmith.com. 3. J.MCLAUGHLIN Alexander Belt is resort-casual but also elegant, and reminiscent of vintage Riviera style featuring a bench-tanned leather buckle and elastic braiding that allows for a more precise fit; $98 at jmclaughlin.com. 4. ASPREY His Majesty KingCharles III Coronation Lion Decanter Set commemorates the coronation and consists of a limited edition gilded and engraved lion head decanter and a pair of tumblers engraved with the royal cyphers; $10,118
5. STUBBS & WOOTTON The new Goldbears slippers in Marine; $575 at stubbsandwootton.com. 6. ZEGNA Men’s Metal Double-Bridge Rectangle Sunglasses in gold/green; $380 bergdorfgoodman.com.
7. PATEK PHILIPPE 6300GR Grand Complications reinterprets the design of its most complicated wristwatch by offering it for the first time in a “two-tone” version combining white gold and rose gold, along with brown opaline dials; price upon request at patek.com.
SUMMER 2023/ Q 39 ACCESSORIES 5
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE 4 Rex
Go anywhere, wear anything, and carry the essentials with the Noor clutch, made in 100% wicker with a luxe With a detachable chain shoulder strap, the Loubitwist Small Patent Clutch Bag in pink can be worn as a
CLUTCHES QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Q 40
Bianca Jagger attends the Metropolitan Museum of Art's
Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images
Ingrid Bergman Swedish actress Ingrid Bergman carries her fraternal twin daughters, Isabella (the actress Isabella Rossellini) and Isotta (now an adjunct professor of Italian literature) in Rome in 1952. Upon her arrival in the U.S., Bergman quickly became "the ideal of American womanhood" and a contender for Hollywood's greatest leading actress. In 1999, the American Film Institute recognized Bergman as the fourth greatest female screen legend of Classic Hollywood Cinema. She is one of only four actresses to have received at least three Academy Awards (only Katharine Hepburn has four).
1 2 3 5 HANDBAGS QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE SUMMER 202 3/ Q 41 David "Chim" Seymour 4
1. VALEXTRA Finesse and function combine to create the ultimate Valextra icon, the Iside Top Handle Mini Bag in Cachemire Beige; $3,980 at valextra.com.
2. PRADA The Mini Saffiano Leather Top-Handle Bag features a detachable, adjustable shoulder strap and the signature triangle logo; $3,750 at bergdorfgoodman.com.
3. LORO PIANA Made in Italy, the M Happy Day Bag in dyed calfskin is reinterpreted with a casual, laid-back allure, without sacrificing Loro Piana’s hallmark refined elegance; $4,075 at us.loropiana.com. 4. BOTTEGA VENETA Small Intrecciato Napa Camera Crossbody Bag in Wisteria; $2,500 at bergdorfgoodman.com. 5. LOEWE Horseshoe Napa Crossbody Bag; $1,950 at loewe.com.
Dustin Hoffman dressed in a flannel, three-piece suit on a streetwalk in 1972. Hot on the heels of the rebellious 1960s, the 1970s brought about an era of relaxed tailoring and laid-back confidence that has been wisely revived in a number of men’s collections today. The days of loose-legged, slightly high-waisted trousers and wide-lapeled jackets have returned. Deeper V-necks have also made a comeback, as have blazer cardigans and tailored vests. As always, style is more about how you wear it than what you’re wearing.
6 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE MEN’S APPAREL
1. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Wool and Sea Island Cotton Chalk Stripe Gabardine Blazer ($5,095), Linen and Cotton Sweater ($795), and Leisure Fit Trousers ($1,500); visit shop.brunellocucinelli.com. 2. RALPH LAUREN Purple Label Sunglasses, Camel and Tan Herringbone Jacket, Camel and Herringbone Vest, White Twill Shirt, Cream Silk Pants, White Linen Pocket Square, Tan Tartan Tie, and Tan and Cream Burnished Calf Suede Dress Shoes; visit ralphlauren.com. 3. CANALI Navy Blue Herringbone Suit in Cotton; $1,518 at canali.com. 4. SAINT LAURENT Wrap-Over Top in Jersey ($1,990) and Flared Tuxedo Pants in Grain de Poudre ($1,650); visit ysl.com. 5. ZEGNA White Pure Linen Overshirt ($2,490) and Beige Pure Linen Jogger Pants ($990); visit zegna.com. 6. J.MCLAUGHLIN Callahan Polo ($118), Callistair Linen Pants ($148), Bartleby Sunglasses ($128), and Suede Espadrilles ($198); visit jmclaughlin.com.
4 5 2 1 3 Q 42/ SU MME R 20 23 Globe Photos
The Swinging 1960s responded to the cowed blondes of the 1950s (like, Grace Kelly and Marilyn Monroe) with Raquel Welch. This brazen force with cascading auburn locks was curvaceous and empowered. She was a sex goddess, despite refusing to be photographed nude—even for Playboy, causing Hugh Hefner to call her “boring.” (She shared on Piers Morgan’s Life Stories: “I am my father’s daughter and that’s just not the way you behave. You don’t do that if you are a certain kind of a woman and that’s the kind of woman I was raised to be […] There were times when I disliked him quite a lot but at the same time I had enormous respect for him. I really did want to please him.”)
Raquel Welch was born Jo-Raquel Tejada on September 5, 1940, in Chicago, Illinois, to Armand Carlos Tejada (who was Bolivian) and Josephine Sarah Hall (whose roots could be traced to John Quincy Adams and the Mayflower). In 1942, The Tejadas relocated from Chicago to San Diego, California, where the Tejadas soon welcomed Raquel’s siblings: James (in 1942) and Gayle (in 1946).
Raquel Welch: Fearless Femme
Raquel’s home was chaotic, with Armand being explosive to Josephine and the children. In Raquel: Beyond the Cleavage, Welch shares: “My romantic life would be something quite different. I wasn’t ever willing to settle for the dry, estranged relationship of my parents. I’m allergic to it. I knew I couldn’t (and wouldn’t) tolerate it. I supposed that in some way, I wanted to vindicate my mother’s suffering and selflessness.”
Raquel studied ballet from the age of 7 to her late teens, preparing the bodacious belle for La Jolla High School’s cheerleading squad. As a sophomore, she started dating the handsome James Welch, who played football. The lure between them was intense. Raquel graduated with honors and a college scholarship, while James quit high school and departed for Peru on a tuna clipper. After a brief break up, Raquel and James rekindled their
B y E liza BE th Q uinn B rown
Q 44/ SUMMER 2023 Herbert Dorfman/Corbis via Getty Images
Left: A portrait of screen siren Raquel Welch in 1960. Right: Welch wearing a dress made out of an embroidered shawl, photographed by Terry O'Neill circa 1970.
relationship when he returned home. The two tied the knot in Las Vegas in 1959.
During this time, Raquel’s parents divorced and Raquel started entering pageants, being crowned Miss Fairest of the Fair in 1957 and Maid of California in 1958. In Raquel: Beyond the Cleavage, Welch shares: “I didn’t like my hair (very fine like my mother’s), or my eyes (too deeply set and almond shaped, in standard-issue brown), or my nose (not cute enough), or my mouth (a bit too wide). Then there were my hips (not high or round enough) and my breasts (set too widely apart on my torso). But there were things I did like: my shoulders (square and broad), my back (shaped like an inverted triangle), and my waistline (super small). I also liked my skin (olive and fine-pored), my hands and feet (delicate and well-formed), and my teeth (super white, and I had my mother’s smile). My cheekbones (prominent like Kate Hepburn’s), my ears (small), and my proportions (svelte after years of ballet) were pretty damned good.”
Q 46/ SUMMER 2023 George Freston/Fox Photos/Getty Images; Michael Ochs Archive/Getty Images; Silver Screen Collection/Getty Images
Clockwise from top left: Raquel Welch as a little girl; Welch wears a classic trench in the ’60s; the actress strikes a pose in pink; Welch kicks a ball around in a Chelsea soccer uniform while filming Hannie Caulder in Arizona, 1971; Arnold Schwarzenegger holds Welch in the air at the Golden Globe Awards in Beverly Hills, 1977; besieged by photographers, Welch wears a white crocheted mini dress on her wedding day to manager Patrick Curtis, Paris, 1967. Opposite page, clockwise from top: shaking hands with Queen Elizabeth II at a Royal Film performance in 1966; Welch touching up in Los Angeles, 1962; Welch as Fathom Harvill in Fathom , 1967.
Everett Collection; Mondadori Portfolio by Getty Images; Sunset Boulevard/Corbis via Getty Images; Terry O'Neill; Frank Edwards/Fotos International/Getty Images; AP Photo
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Raquel Welch strikes a sultry pose featuring her voluminous, brunette hair, 1970; Welch stars as Myra Breckinridge, 1970 (inset). Opposite page, from above: Welch photographed by Francis Giacobetti, 1967; Welch in a scene from Myra Breckinridge ; Frank Sinatra and Raquel Welch star in Lady in Cement , 1968.
On refusing to be photographed nude—even for Playboy, Welch shared: “I am my father’s daughter and that’s just not the way you behave. You don’t do that if you are a certain kind of a woman and that’s the kind of woman I was raised to be..."
Raquel and James had two children before Raquel turned 21: Damon (in 1959) and Tahnee (in 1961). But the couple separated (before divorcing in 1964), and Raquel moved with the children to Dallas, Texas. There, she modeled for Neiman Marcus and waitressed at Cabana Motor Hotel.
In 1963, The single mother headed back to the West Coast, settling in Los Angeles, California. In Raquel: Beyond the Cleavage, Welch shares: “When I got there, with no car, two hundred bucks in my pocket, two kids, and no connections, it was pretty rough going. I ran into all kinds of weirdness.” She soon landed a role in the film Roustabout (1964), which starred Elvis Presley and Barbara Stanwyck. She was excited to work with Elvis, sharing with the Wall Street Journal: “Something about his voice in that song [‘Heartbreak Hotel’] made me think, ‘This must be what sex is all about.’ My girlfriends and I didn't have a lot of experience in that department, but you just knew Elvis had it all.”
David Handschuh/Associated Press; Patrice Habans/ Paris Match via Getty Images; Getty Images Q 50/ SUMMER 2023
Clockwise from top left: Raquel Welch married four times, first to high school sweetheart James Welch, with whom she had son Damon, born in 1959, and daughter, Tahnee, born in 1961; Welch alongside her then-husband Patrick Curtis in Rome, 1971; Welch and Julie Christie practice curtsying before Queen Elizabeth in London, 1967; Welch on her wedding day to her third husband, French screenwriter André Weinfeld, with Damon and Tahnee, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, 1980; Salvador Dali and Raquel Welch, 1965; the actress in 1966; Welch and Marcello Mastroianni in the Italian film Shoot Loud, Louder... I Don't Understand , 1966. Opposite page, clockwise from top: Welch poses with sailors from the ship Saipan in New York, 1982; playing cards with locals in Saint-Tropez while filming The Biggest Bundle of Them All, 1968; the actress dons a red and white ensemble circa 1960.
Raquel Welch archives; Getty Images; Getty Images; Raquel Welch archives; Hulton Archive/Getty Images; Pierluigi Pratluron/Shutterstock; Getty Images
“You know what’s the sexiest thing of all? A little mystery... Interesting is better than beautiful."
PictureLux/The Hollywood Archive/Alamy Stock Photo; Terry O'Neill; Silver Screen Collection/Getty Images; Getty Images
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A close-up of Raquel Welch, 1968. Opposite page, clockwise from left: the actress smiling in 1967; Welch makes her way into a pool, 1968; Welch wearing a psychedelic dress, circa 1967; the bikini-clad actress poses on a boat during a scene from The Biggest Bundle of Them All , released in 1968.
Raquel began auditioning for roles like Mary Ann Summers on Gilligan’s Island. The star’s first credited role came in A Swingin’ Summer (1965), which included a singing/dancer number called “Ready to Groove.” She signed with Fox, which tested her for the James Bond film Thunderball starring Sean Connery, before placing her in the sci-fi classic Fantastic Voyage (1966). She would have preferred to be a Bond Girl but she understood that the sci-fi genre was, basically, a rite of passage for desirable, sexy actresses.
Then, the flick—or, rather, the poster for the flick—that would launch her to fame: One Million Years B.C. (1966). Raquel had three lines playing Loana The Fair One, but she was dressed in the iconic deer-skin bikini that would grace posters around the globe. She fell ill with a severe case of tonsillitis (the shoot took place in the Canary Islands in the winter). In Raquel: Beyond the Cleavage, Welch shares: “Why didn’t I have a parka? ‘Cave girls don’t have parkas,’ I was told.”
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Q 54/ SUM MER 2023 20th Century Studios; Cinetext/Allstar; Silver Screen Collection/Getty Images; Getty Images; Getty Images
Myra Breckinridge, 1970; Welch in Shout Loud, Louder... I Do Not Understand, 1966; Welch and Ringo Starr in a scene from The Magic Christian, 1969; Welch and Stephen Boyd in the cult science-fiction drama Fantastic Voyage, 1966; Welch photographed in costume as Myra Breckinridge, 1970; Welch in her first leading role as Cora Peterson in Fantastic Voyage; Welch modeling a look by Pierre Cardin, 1967. Opposite page, clockwise from lower left: Welch in The Three Musketeers, 1973; the actress in the The Oldest Profession, 1967; Welch as Cora on the set of Fantastic Voyage; Welch in a publicity shot for One Million Years B.C., 1966; Welch stands over people sleeping in the 1967 British comedy, Bedazzled
Terry O'Neill; 20th Century Fox/Ronald Grant Archive; Bettmann/Getty Images; Getty Images; 20th Century Studios; Terry O'Neill; TCD/Alamy; Terry O'Neill
Counterclockwise from lower right: Raquel Welch captured by Terry O'Neill wrapped up in a bedsheet; Raquel Welch stars as the eponymous transexual heroine, while Farrah Fawcett portrays
Reflecting on this moment, Welch shared with Cigar Aficionado: "I think whether you're Gwyneth Paltrow or Raquel Welch or Jennifer Lopez, there's a certain thing about that white-hot moment of first fame that is just pure pain. It's just not comfortable. I felt like I was supposed to be perfect. And because everybody was looking at me so hard, I felt there was so much to prove. It was an enormous burden.”
The features that followed included Bedazzled (1967), Bandolero! (1968) starring James Stewart, and Lady in Cement (1968) starring Frank Sinatra. In 1975, she won a Golden Globe for The Three Mus(1973). Later, she would have cameos in T.V. shows, like Seinfeld, and roles as a gorgeous divorcée in both Legally Blonde (2001) and How to be a Latin Lover (2017).
Raquel married three times (after James) to producer Patrick Curtis (from 1967 to 1972), French producer André Weinfeld (from 1980 to 1990), and restaurateur Richard Palmer (from 1999 to 2008).
The forever babe died in her eighties on February 15, 2023, at her Beverly Hills home in Los Angeles, California. Reese Witherspoon (Raquel’s Legally Blonde co-star) tweeted: “So sad to hear about Raquel Welch's passing. I loved working with her on Legally Blonde. She was elegant, professional, and glamorous beyond belief. Simply stunning”. And Reese was right… Raquel Welch will be remembered for her iconic looks, which were fierce and timeless— and era-defining—not to mention the dignity and strength that she carried through life.◆
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Michel Lipchitz/AP Photo; Getty Images; Silver Screen Collection/Getty Images; Stanley Bielecki Movie Collection/Getty Images
photos of the late actress; entertaining troops in Vietnam, December 1, 1967; Welch touches Marcello Mastroianni's beard on the set of Shoot Loud, Louder ... I Don’t Understand , Rome, 1966; the actress speaking in Los Angeles at PORTER Hosts Incredible Women Gala in Association with Estée Lauder, 2017; Welch in Spain, 1968; Welch as roller derby skater K.C. Karr in Kansas City Bomber , 1972. Opposite page, from above: Welch poses for photographers in Paris, 1970; Welch in Cannes, 1966; the actress dressed in yellow, 1967; Welch in a scene from Myra Breckinridge , 1970.
MGM/Allstar; Vera Anderson/WireImage; Bettmann/Getty Images; Mario Torrisi/ Associated Press ; Donato Sardella/Getty Images; Gianni Ferrari/Getty Images; Bill Eppridge/The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Clockwise from top left: Raquel Welch as Mrs. WindhamVandermark in Legally Blonde ,
one of the last
Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty
by A lex A nder H A nkin
BFA QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Q 58/ SUMMER 2023
Anne Hathaway in Versace at the Met Gala.
On the first Monday in May, celebrities gathered to attend The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s annual Costume Institute Benefit, more commonly known at The Met Gala. This year’s event, co-chaired by Michaela Coel, Penélope Cruz, Roger Federer, Dua Lipa, and Anna Wintour, celebrated the newly opened Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty exhibition at The Met, which explores the extraordinary career of the legendary designer, and partygoers dressed to theme. Anne Hathaway channeled the designer’s ’90s muses in a custom Versace dress adorned with Swarovski crystals, while Nicole Kidman wore a Chanel gown designed by Lagerfeld himself for the Haute Couture collection in 2004.
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art; Annie Leibovitz / Vogue /Trunk Archive; Victor Boyko / Getty Images; Julia Hetta
Clockwise from above: a portrait of Karl Lagerfeld; a structural line sketch from Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2019 Haute Couture Collection; a runway image brings the sketch to life; a mannequin wears the same strapless floral look.
The exhibition is a comprehensive look at Lagerfeld’s career over the decades through a theoretical framework inspired by William Hogarth’s book The Analysis of Beauty-specifically, his concept of serpentine lines representing liveliness, and straight lines symbolizing inactivity. Lagerfeld took inspiration from both the straight and serpentine lines in equal measure. “The exhibition [explores] Lagerfeld’s complex working methodology, tracing the evolution of his fashions from the two dimensional to the three dimensional. The fluid lines of his sketches found expression in recurring themes in his fashions, uniting his designs for Chanel, Chloé, Fendi, his eponymous label, Karl Lagerfeld, and Patou, creating a diverse and prolific body of work unparalleled in the history of fashion,” explained Andrew Bolton, The Costume Institute’s Wendy Yu Curator in Charge.
The museum describes the exhibition as a “thematic and conceptual essay about Lagerfeld’s work” rather than a traditional retrospective. The exhibition opens with introductory galleries that dive into the early years of Lagerfeld’s career, including his time spent as
From left: Dua Lipa wearing Chanel at The Met Gala; Karl Lagerfeld and Claudia Schiffer (who walked the runway in Lipa’s same dress) at Chanel’s Fall/Winter 92/93 Haute Couture show in Paris in July of 1992. Opposite page: Red carpet looks from The Met Gala. Clockwise from above: Anna Wintour and Bill Knighy; Penélope Cruz wearing Chanel; Michaela Coel, Gabrielle Union, and Dwyane Wade; Naomi Campbell dressed in Chanel.
BFA QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE ARNAL/PICOT/Getty Images; BFA
a design assistant (and later apprentice) for Balmain and his days as artistic director of Patou, where he continued to refine his unique style of sketching his primary mode of creative expression and communication. While many designers use multiple sketches, Lagerfeld’s practice utilized one meticulous sketch that would allow the dressmakers to craft his vision to perfection. Anchoring the exhibit is a portrait of the desk that Lagerfeld would sketch on. The adjacent introductory gallery focuses on the premières d’atelier—the seamstresses responsible for materializing his visions, translating his two-dimensional drawings into three-dimensional garments. The rest of the exhibition focuses on the differences between the two types of lines that represent conceptual expressions within Lagerfeld’s sketches, and how these two lines are consistently dueling against each other in his work. The straight line signifies Lagerfeld’s minimalist side and the serpentine line represents his romantic and decorative tendencies. These two lines are further divided into nine “sublines” that display conceptual dualities showcased in Lagerfeld’s designs for Chanel, Chloé, Fendi, and his eponymous brand. For exam-
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courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris; Peter White / Getty Images Julia Hetta
From left: A Chanel Spring/Summer 2019 Haute Couture sketch; a coat and runway shot from Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2017/18 Haute Couture collection. Opposite page, clockwise from left: Cindy Crawford walks the Chanel runway in 1993; Margot Robbie attends The Met Gala wearing Cindy Crawford’s 1993 dress; Matthew Williams and Gigi Hadid attend The Met Gala.
ple, feminine competes with masculine, while romantic contradicts military. These dualities are united by “figuartive explosions,” as Bolton put it, or garments that represent moments of convergence, uniting the opposing concepts.
Like Coco Chanel, Lagerfeld was superstitious and loved numbers. Galleries in the exhibit align with the nine sublines seen in Lagerfeld’s sketches. The nine sublines represent September—Lagerfeld’s birth month—and the 10th concluding gallery, featuring a satirical line, represents the day he was born. Additionally, there are seven dresses for each duality (his lucky number). The methodology implemented throughout the galleries educates viewers-there’s truly a story behind every detail. Even the mannequins displayed throughout are based on figurines that Karl collected, recreated with a porcelain finish.
On display through July 16th, the exhibition is a must-visit. “Karl Lagerfeld was one of the most captivating, prolific, and recognizable forces in fashion and culture, known as much for his extraordinary designs and tireless creative output as for his legendary persona. This immersive exhibition [unpacks] his singular artistic practice, inviting the public to experience an essential part of Lagerfeld’s boundless imagination and passion for innovation.” ◆
Q 64/ SUMMER 2023 BFA; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art; Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images
Met Gala; a wedding dress walks the runway during Chanel’s Fall/ Winter 2005/06 Haute Couture show; Elle Fanning at The Met Gala. Opposite page: Jeremy Pope dons a 30-foot “Karl Kape” designed by Balmain at The Met Gala.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE BFA
Celebrating the History & Heritage of Burberry B y J anie M c G raw P ierre P ont
Courtesy of Burberry
In 1856, Thomas Burberry developed the principle that a garment should protect people from the British climate. Born and raised in the British countryside, Burberry always loved the outdoors and sought to invent a weather resistant fabric that could withstand conditions of all types. Rainwear in the 19th century was heavy and uncomfortable. Burberry wanted freedom of movement and elegance, which led him to create gabardine, a lightweight and breathable fabric specifically resistant to rain and wind. The fabric was patented in 1888 and later recognized as the “Burberry.” The Burberry was meant to be worn in all different climates and terrain. With this, Burberry began designing smocks for clients that worked in agriculture, later dressing explorers, pioneers, and aviators. “The Burberry trench was not born - rather, it grew, developed slowly, its unique geography defined through lived experience,” stated fashion journalist Alexander Fury.
Burberry’s son, Arthur Michael, traveled to London to transform his father’s invention into a business, “Thomas Burberry & Sons,” branding the gabardine fabric as the iconic trench coat. During the First World War, the trench coat was born specifically for military and British armed officers. Its functional design and lightweight fabric were
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Courtesy of Burberry
Clockwise from top left: Tielocken coat, 1937; Burberry polar explorer outfit, circa 1920; the cover of Assouline’s Burberry. Opposite page: Autumn/Winter 2014 womenswear show.
Courtesy of Burberry
The Burberry Classic Check Cashmere Scarf; the iconic Burberry Check is woven at the Burberry Mill in Yorkshire, England (inset). Opposite page, counterclockwise from above: Burberry trench coats are made in Yorkshire, England by an expert team; Burberry was worn to explore the great outdoors – both near and far – as shown in this early 20th century illustration; Flying Officer Arthur Clouston and Betty Kirby-Green in The Burberry plane, 1937; behind the scenes image of Stella Tennant and Andrea Boccaletti during the Burberry Spring/Summer 1999 campaign.
Courtesy of Burberry
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Countercloskwise from right: Stella Tennant in the Spring/ Summer 2019 campaign; Adwoa Aboah and her family in Ghana in the Autumn/Winter 2018 PreCollection campaign; Jermaine Ampomah in the Autumn 2017 campaign; the Burberry Rainbow Check, Autumn/Winter 2018. Opposite page: Gabardine trench gown, Autumn/Winter 2022 runway collection.
© Colin Dodgson_Art Partner; © Kristin-Lee Moolman_August Image
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engineered for fluid movement. The family business provided clothing not only for military personnel, but also kings, queens, and royalty. Thomas Burberry revolutionized the trench coat as an investment staple that survived even during the Great Depression. The company had repeat customers that praised the classic yet functional garment, selling over 20,000 coats in just the Haymarket store. “We’re a nation notorious for our rain, so of course a firm that specialized in rainwear would excel,” noted London College of Fashion professor Amy de la Haye.
In the 1920s, the signature Burberry check was introduced to each coat as a lining, which became the iconic symbol for the brand. As the buzz around the trench coat sustained through periods of financial hardship and war, the company continued to run as a family business for three decades. The trench coat was reconfigured into dresses and capes while the historic check design was wrapped around umbrellas and suitcases. “The past two decades have solidified Burberry’s position as a heritage brand that remains on the cutting edge of fashion and culture,” observed Edward Enninful OBE, Editor-in-Chief of British Vogue With over 500 stores around the world, Burberry became the first brand to make runway collections available to purchase directly after the show. In Assouline’s latest book on the renowned global brand, fashion journalist Alexander Fury covers the history and evolution of the classic and functional trench coat with over 200 illustrations and quotes from notable customers. “Burberry is a British institution and has been since it started in 1856,” English supermodel Naomi Campbell declared. ◆
Courtesy of Burberry
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Zad Ú n: A Wellness Oasis in Los Cabos
In 2019, Zadún, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, unveiled its wellness oasis to guests, offering relaxation and luxury along the dramatic coastline of San José del Cabo. Nestled amid the desert dunes with panoramic views of the Sea of Cortes, this resort is the latest North American gem in the coveted Reserve portfolio, a distinguished selection of exclusive resorts that represent the highest level of luxury within the larger Marriott collection. As is customary with all Ritz-Carlton
Reserve properties, Zadún sets the bar for tailored service and premium comfort in an unspoiled, exotic landscape. It’s just one of five Ritz-Carlton Reserves properties in the world, and the first of its kind in Mexico. Here’s what to expect during a stay.
Following a scenic 30-minute car ride from the airport, guests arrive at the resort to be greeted by architecture that harmoniously blends with the natural splendor of the sur-
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B y B
k elly M
Courtesy of Zadún, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
Clockwise from top left: Humo restaurant; Spa Alkemia’s hydrotherapy pool; Stargazing experience, part of the Ambassasdor’s of the Environment program. Opposite page: The Candil building exterior.
King guestroom; bathroom in the Grand Reserve Villa (inset). Opposite page, clockwise from above: A Zadún ambassador; a guestroom patio; Equis Bar; beach hammock.
rounding desert and sea, drawing inspiration from the local culture and landscape. At the entrance, a magnificent steel sculpture created by local artist Arturo Berned and named “La Cabeza,” invites you to the open-air lobby, where a skilled mixologist crafts a refreshing welcome cocktail tailored to your preferences. The Director of Guest Experiences proudly remarks that every corner of the resort is infused with Mexico’s storied heritage, from locally crafted pieces to enriching nature and cultural activities. From the lobby, you can savor breathtaking vistas of the lush gardens, infinity pools, and the tranquil sea, where you may even spot whales leaping out of the water depending on the season.
The accommodations at Zadún are nothing short of stunning. The intimate property is comprised of 113 guest rooms and suites, many of which feature a private terrace and plunge pool, all at varying heights along the natural slopes of the land with breathtaking views. The
interiors—open and airy—are elegantly appointed with a modern expression of Mexican design, featuring handcrafted furnishings and artfully curated decor. The bathrooms, with oversized soaking tubs and rain showers, are a sanctuary unto themselves. All rooms have an appointed Tosoani, a personalized butler who will remain at your service throughout your stay. The Tosoani is reachable via text for any requests, whether it’s a lift to your room on the resort’s golf cart or a reservation for dinner or activity. You can anticipate receiving thoughtful, customized treats throughout your stay, such as an exquisite chocolate golf ball prepared by Executive Chef Rodrigo Torres or an indulgent body treatment placed beside the soaking tub in your room after a round of golf.
The resort’s amenities and experiences are equally impressive. For guests who are passionate about nature, Zadún’s Ambassadors of the Environment program is an absolute must. Led by experts in their field, the program offers a variety of activities that are suitable for people of all ages,
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Courtesy of Zadún, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve
from stargazing to birdwatching. Designed to foster a deep connection with the natural world, the program encourages guests to explore and preserve the environment, creating unforgettable memories in the process. For those looking to relax and rejuvenate, Zadún offers the beautiful 30,000-square-foot Spa Alkemia. Surrounded by tranquil gardens, the spa offers a wide range of holistic treatments designed to soothe the mind and body, with multiple spaces for rejuvenation. The outdoor renewal area, complete with a meandering hydrotherapy pool, is the perfect place to unwind and soak up the serene surroundings after a day of exploring. For golf enthusiasts, the Puerto Los Cabos Golf Course is located right next door. This 27-hole golf resort features three distinct courses designed by legendary golfers Greg Norman and Jack Nicklaus, all perched above the Sea of Cortes and etched into rolling desert foothills, with the stunning Sierra de la Laguna Mountains serving as the backdrop.
Zadún’s many dining options are a foodie’s delight. The resort’s Argentinian fine-dining restaurant, Humo, is a true standout, serving up meals prepared using traditional South
American grilling techniques that are as beautiful as they are delicious. El Barrio, open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, features classic Mexican dishes that are bursting with flavor and color, providing a delightful representation of the local culture. For those seeking seafood, the beachside restaurant, Equis, is the perfect choice and features a raw bar of fresh daily catches. And, when it’s time for a pre- or post-dinner drink, guests can head to Candil Agave Bar, where handcrafted cocktails can be enjoyed in a cozy alfresco setting hillside with firepits, live music, and panoramic views.
But what truly sets Zadún apart is the exceptional service. The staff, from the moment you arrive, are attentive, friendly, and eager to ensure that your every need is met. From the pool attendants who bring you chilled towels, to the staff who leave thoughtful touches in your room, the level of service is unparalleled. From its stunning design and world-class amenities to its exceptional service and dining options, Zadún is the perfect place for those who seek a truly indulgent and unforgettable vacation in Mexico. ◆
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Courtesy of Zadún, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve
One of the property’s swimming pools; El Barrio (inset). Opposite page: Arrival pavilion.
Beauty Chat: Experts Talk
“Ozempic Face” To Ripe Grape & Summer Glow-Up Tips
by M icaela e nglish
Are they…or aren’t they?
That’s been the whispered buzz among Palm Beach and New York social circles—as restaurants, galas, and cocktail parties are teeming with guests who appear to be inexplicably…deflated.
The topic in question? Semaglutides, most commonly known as Ozempic, Wegovy, and Rybelsus, an injectable antidiabetic medication used for the treatment of type 2 diabetes, and now approved to be prescribed for chronic weight management in adults with obesity or who are significantly overweight.
A quick crash course on those that are approved to be taking semaglutide for weight loss, “The guidelines to be a candidate are very clear,” According to endocrinologist and obesity specialist, Dr. Rocio Salas-Whalen. “Patients who have a BMI equal to or greater than 27 plus one comorbidity (comorbidity occurs when a person has more than one disease or condition at the same time—for example, if you have diabetes and you’re later diagnosed with depression, then depression is a comorbidity) or a BMI of 30 or more without any comorbidities are candidates for semaglutide,” says Salas-Whalen. As per plastic surgeon, Dr. Da vid Shafer, the success of peptide weight loss treatments, including
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semaglutide, is commendable, “Semaglutide and the other peptide weight loss treatments really work. When taken properly and under medical supervision, the side effects are minimal compared to previous weight loss medications that relied on speeding up metabolism which can raise the blood pressure and heart rate and make people feel jittery,” says Dr. Shafer.
But with the oh-so-pop culture murmur of it all, from the mention of Ozempic in Jimmy Kimmel’s opening at this year’s Academy Awards to that infamous Marilyn Monroe dress going up the steps of last year’s Met Gala, Cosmetic Derm and “Exterior Designer” Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank (board-certified dermatologist, skincare consultant, and founder of the bespoke aesthetic healthcare brand PFRANKMD) reminds us this is not a trend, stating “Do not go along with using medications of any kind as a replacement for a healthy lifestyle, good self-care, and making the efforts that are necessary to live a positive and aesthetically pleasing life. I think these medications are excellent for people who struggle with weight loss and health issues that are related to carrying excess weight, but as with all medications, I show concerns over their abuse. I think that it’s not just a trend—it’s a new category of treatment for obesity.” Plastic surgeon and skin care founder Dr. Lara Devgan says,
Clockwise from top left: Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank is a board-certified dermatologist, skincare consultant, and founder of bespoke aesthetic healthcare brand, PFRANKMD (pfrankmd.com); Dr. David Shafer, MD, FACS is a double board certified, award-winning New York City plastic surgeon, specializing in all aspects of aesthetic & cosmetic surgery (shaferplasticsurgery.com); EMFACE™ is the first hands-free, non-invasive device that helps skin appear lifted and less wrinkled without the use of needles. Results appear within 6-12 weeks. Opposite page, from above: protecting skin from the sun is one of the best things you can do to keep it healthy, according to dermatologists; plump grapes versus dried raisins have been compared to faces that have undergone rapid weight loss.
Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank/PFRANKMD;
Dr. David Shafer/Shafer Clinic; EMFACE™
“Net net, these medications are helping many people. They are not for kickstarting, they are not trends. They are similar to thyroid medications or depression medications or blood pressure medications—drugs used to treat chronic diseases that require chronic solutions.”
This brings us to one of the aesthetic implications of swift weight loss—ozempic face—where an individual’s facial features may transition from a plump grape-like appearance to a hollowed out raisin-like visage, whether they are undergoing treatment with semaglutide or have experienced accelerated weight loss via other means. Dr. Shafer shares his go-to solutions for this common case, “Any rapid weight loss can lead to less volume in the face and loose skin. This is the same phenomenon with gastric bypass surgery and other rapid weight loss methods. So there is nothing inherent or unique to the effects on the skin due to Ozempic. And, it’s not just the face. We see patients with sagging breasts, abdomens, and buttocks. Treatment for the face includes re-volumizing with fat grafting or dermal fillers such as Voluma and Volux. Some patients may need a facelift or other skin tightening surgeries and some may benefit from laser and other energy based skin tightening treatments.” For those with significant weight loss, Dr. Frank explains the surgical truth, “For extreme weight loss, where there is significant laxity, we usually refer them for surgery. There’s only so much that non or minimally-invasive treatments can do. People with 50+ weight loss or who are 50+ years old, may require surgical intervention. I coordinate care with various types of surgeons.”
Peptides aside, for those looking for a derm-approved pre-summer
Image via Pixabay; Getty Images
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From above: A scale, measuring tape, and a healthy apple depict the age-old conundrum of the ups and downs of weight management; A woman stays healthy and fit by running outdoors.
From above: Dr. Lara Devgan’s Serum Superheroes Collection including: Hyaluronic Serum, Vitamin C+B+E Ferulic Serum, and Retinol + Bakuchiol Serum to achieve tighter pores, reduced fine lines, a clear and even complexion, and bright, hydrated skin; recognized by Goop and Vogue as one of New York’s best cosmetic surgeons, Dr. Lara Devgan, MD, MPH, FACS, is a top board-certified New York City plastic surgeon and the founder and CEO of luxury medical-grade skincare line Dr. Devgan Scientific Beauty (laradevganmd.com).
the arrival of warmer seasons is the perfect opportunity to prioritize skin improvements and volume, “We want to get rid of sun damage, have clear skin, improve skin texture (particularly on the body) and treat cellulite. Treatments like Ultherapy for the face, Emtone for the body and Emsculpt + Emface for muscular improvements and lifting are usually the things that get people spring and summer ready,” says Dr. Frank.
Other routes to plump, hydrated, taut, glowing skin ahead of sum mer? Try celebrity aesthetician Edyta Jarosz’s DiamondGlow® facial at the Shafer Clinic (her “magic hands” have created quite the cult-fol lowing and viral buzz on Instagram). Expect instant clarity, dewiness, and brighter skin from the facial’s signature real diamond tip wand that infuses the skin with professional-grade SkinMedica® Pro-Infu sion Serum while extracting debris and clearing your pores.
Dr. Lara Devgan loves a combo of procedures and products: “My short list of my top 3 procedures would be to maintain Botox for a brow lift and neck bands to open up the eyes (and avoid a neck lift down the road), cheekbone augmentation for midface support, and jawline augmentation to reduce jowling”. As for her products, A-list celebrities and private clients can’t get enough of her Serum Superhe roes. “This edited collection of our most powerful serums contains Hyaluronic Serum for collagen boosting and hydration, Vitamin CBE Ferulic Serum for discoloration and fine lines, and Retinol Bakuchiol Serum for enlarged pores, blemishes, texture, and wrinkles. It’s trans formed the skin of tens of thousands of real users.” Here’s to the sunny, glowy, and “voluminous” days ahead...◆
Lara Devgan; Dr. Lara Devgan/drlaradevgan.com
London’s Legendary Club Turns 60
B y B rooke k elly M urray
Since opening its doors on June 4th, 1963, Annabel’s—the fabled social club in London’s Mayfair—has played host to the crème de la crème of society, from the Beatles and the Rolling Stones to Princess Diana. With a glamorous allure that draws members and guests from across the globe, Annabel’s delivers an extravagant experience that is simply unparalleled. This year, we’re toasting its 60th anniversary. The club was founded by the late entrepreneur Mark Birley, who named it after his wife, Lady Annabel Vane-Tempest Stewart. It was orig-
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Clockwise from top left: A facade celebrating the 1st birthday of the new Annabel’s in 2019; the original Annabel’s at 44 Berkeley Square; Patricia and Richard Caring.
Courtesy of Annabel’s; Dave
Clockwise from above: Princess Michael of Kent walking in a fashion show at Annabel’s, 1980; the club’s original owner Mark Birley with his wife Annabel; Jerry Hall and Francesca von Thyssen at Annabel’s, 1987.
Q 84/ SUMMER 2023 Courtesy of Annabel’s
inally situated in the vaults of a Georgian mansion at 44 Berkeley Square. The basement, designed by Nina Campbell, quickly rose to prominence thanks to Birley’s impeccable taste, earning him the nickname of the “King of Clubs.” Descending the grand canopied staircase embellished in blue and gold stripes, visitors were treated to a double delight. The Buddha Room, adorned with Birley’s collection of equestrian and canine artworks, provided an intimate setting for sipping cocktails and puffing cigarettes, while the boisterous dancefloor offered a lively and fun atmosphere. Frequented by luminaries like Ray Charles, Ella Fitzgerald, The Supremes, and even Richard Nixon, the club exuded sophistication and a sense of refined London aristocracy, where cultured and like-minded guests gathered to mingle. It even has the honor of being the only nightclub that Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II has ever visited.
Inside the new Annabel’s. Clockwise from top right: The Nightclub Bar; the hallway; men’s loos in the Mews; the Flower Room; women’s powder room. Opposite page: Themed facades at the new Annabel’s. Clockwise from top left: Christmas, 2020; Annabel’s for the Amazon, 2021; Halloween, 2022; Chelsea Flower Show, 2019; Christmas, 2018.
Courtesy of Annabel’s
In 2007, however, British restauranteur Richard Caring acquired the club from Birley and, in 2018, its location at 44 Berkeley Square closed. The club reopened later that year two doors down at a four-story, 26,000-square-foot space at 46 Berkeley Square, after undergoing a $90 million dollar renovation. Caring hired acclaimed interior designer Martin Brudnizk to design the over-the-top whimsical interiors, including hand painted de Gournay wallpaper and pink onyx and jade crocodile sinks (an Instagram favorite).
The “new” Annabel’s includes an underground nightclub—a replica of the original—as well as multiple bars and six restaurants, a cigar salon, private dining rooms, and a separate Mews house. The exterior is equally impressive, with its everchanging themed facades always drawing a crowd. But it’s not just the building that has experienced a transformation. Under Caring’s stewardship, Annabel’s has undergone a cultural overhaul, shedding its old-world glamour for a contemporary and hip vibe while keeping intact the club’s rich legacy of grandeur. While the club is still private, gone are the days when
blue blood was the golden ticket to membership. The new Annabel’s welcomes a diverse and dynamic crowd that includes influencers and a fresh generation of trendsetters. You might even catch a glimpse of Hollywood’s A-listers like Leonardo DiCaprio, Dua Lipa, or Naomi Campbell sauntering through the halls. Annabel’s has evolved with the times, representing a new era for the storied club.
As always, it continues to be known for its over-the-top parties, at which some of the greatest entertainers of all time have performed, including Lady Gaga and Elton John. On June 8th, Annabel’s will celebrate its 60th birthday with what it does best – an extravagant bash. “60 years ago, Mark Birley invented Annabel’s; new, fresh, original, classy, and exciting. She has become a woman of beauty, quality, and uniqueness. The excitement has carried on and grown over all those years into, what must be, the ultimate private members club in the world. We wish her the happiest of birthdays with many, many more to come,” said Caring. A legacy of fabulousness lives on.
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Late night dancing at the original Annabel’s.
Dave M. Benett; Rex Features; Alan Davidson
Clockwise from top left: Betsee Parker, Elton John and Emma Kane at Annabel’s, 2022; Liz Hurley at Annabel’s, 1988; Princess Maria-Olympia of Greece and Denmark and Ella Richards the Halloween party, 2021; Kate Moss and Fat Tony at Annabel’s 50th birthday party; Prince Charles and Lady Diana pull up to the club, 1987; Rod Stewart and Penny Lancaster at Annabel’s, 2022.
Looking Forward to Fall
by b rooke k elly M urray & e lizabeth M eigher
The best of the Fall/Winter 2023 shows during New York Fashion Week in February.
A model in LoveShackFancy’s FW23 Curtis Silk-Lame Mini Dress in light pink. Clockwise from top left: Models backstage; Rebecca Hessel Cohen with her daughters; a model in LoveShackFancy’s FW23 Calida Dress; Kate Bartlett and Luca Mornet; Rocky Barnes and Danielle Bernstein; a model in LoveShackFancy’s FW23 Clarks Double-Breasted Wool Coat and matching Rooney Wool Mini Skirt; Kit Keenan.
LoveShackFancy LoveShackFancy’s Fall/Winter 2023 show at The Plaza Hotel was a celebration of femininity. Charming décor filled the venue, featuring roses, confetti, and balloons in delightful shades of pink. This brand has always been synonymous with all things girly and whimsical, so it’s no surprise that it was founded by Creative Director Rebecca Hessel Cohen in 2013 after designing enchanting bridesmaid dresses for her own fairytale wedding. Since then, the company has evolved into a premier brand known for flattering silhouettes in delicate hues, intricate lace, whimsical hand-dyed fabrics, and vintage-inspired romantic floral prints. It has captured the hearts of many, particularly Gen-Z consumers who are drawn to its playful and youthful appeal.
Cohen’s latest collection, named “Rebel Rose,” is a testament to the brand’s growth and evolution, showcasing a LoveShackFancy girl who has matured and experienced life’s adventures. “[She] isn’t so naïve anymore; she’s fallen in love, been the last one on the dance floor,” Cohen explained. The collection features the brand’s signature princess-like silhouettes but also incorporates edgier looks that represent the LoveShackFancy girl’s newfound maturity. Drawing inspiration from London’s Portobello Market and Savile Row, the collection features plaid suiting and sculptural taffeta, black velvet, and 19th-century lace.
Models flaunted the brand’s expanding outerwear and knitwear offerings, which were beautifully layered with ultra-feminine dresses and separates. One show-stopping piece was a statement Mongolian shearling that draped over a cream embroidered lace tank and ultra-cropped mini skirt with crystal button details. The looks were diverse, with standout pieces like a short black velvet military jacket paired with an ivory peplum Victorian lace top and sequin flare trousers, low-rise plaid tailored pants worn with a crystal and pearl-embroidered Duchess satin top, a camel and pink plaid tailored coat atop a habotai and tulle dress, and a plaid boyfriend blazer worn over a Victorian dot embroidered tulle ruffle mini dress. The collection showcases LoveShackFancy’s ability to evolve while staying true to its unique and whimsical aesthetic.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE SUMMER 2023/ Q 89 COURTESY OF LOVESHACKFANCY; BFA
Alice + Olivia For Alice + Olivia’s Fall/Winter 2023 presentation, Creative Director Stacey Bendet invited women to celebrate the innovation, glamour, and utter coolness of American fashion throughout modern history. The collection nods to the iconic moments and movements forged right here at home. “I find that fashion is often looking elsewhere for inspiration, but, in fact, America is where a lot of forward fashion eras took place: We created denim, we moved fashion into contemporary design, we created social media and lead the way for what defines pop culture and trend,” said Bendet. Upon entering Highline Stages, guests were taken down memory lane. The venue was decorated with American art in various settings, from a backdrop featuring of Andy Warhol’s Campbell’s chicken noodle soup, to a ’90s Jeep that took centerstage.
American fashion moments dating back to the 1950s are heavily imbued in the collection, from ’50s ball gown skirts and corsets to ’70s bells and brocades. Models donned a reimagined version of the iconic pin-up dress with punk-rock elements, including tulle and black cotton lace manufactured by America’s last-standing lace suppliers. References to Truman Capote’s swans were also present in the show, as shown by the use of a glamorous multi-colored brocade opera coat and elongated dress trains. We also noticed motifs of Hollywood glamour, including a vibrant red chiffon dress equipped with a dramatic flowing scarf and opera gloves. ’90s grunge was another common theme throughout the show, showcased in dramatic leather flair pants and vegan studded moto-jackets further detailed with luxe crystal trims. The collection incorporates several worlds of American fashion all while making them feel modern. “This was never about one singular icon. It was about all sorts of women being icons,” said Bendet.
From above: Stacey Bendet (right) with models; models backstage. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Posing in front of the Campbell’s chicken noodle soup artwork; Logan Horne,Tina Chen Craig, and Nicky Hilton Rothschild; models during the show; models dressed in looks from Alice + Olivia’s FW23 collection; Sophie Sumner; behind the scenes beauty; skateboarding performance.
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< Cynthia Rowley Known for her playful collections, fashion de signer Cynthia Rowley brought her love of humor to the runway for New York Fashion Week. Rowley presented an hour of standup, welcoming some of the biggest names in comedy to the stage. The all-female show was hosted by Esther Ku and featured acts by comedians including Nikki Glaser, Rachel Feinstein, Arden Myrin, Rosebud Baker, Claudia Oshry, Ego Nwodim, and Michelle Buteau, among others. All performers were dressed in clothes by Cynthia Rowley, with each outfit specifically tailored to suit their personalities. The looks were designed using references from the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, including giant pastel paillettes, loads of sheer fabrics, and classically tailored pick-stitch pieces rendered in the brand’s signature sport fabric.
In a world where humor is more important than ever, Rowley’s decision to combine fashion and comedy feels like a breath of fresh air. “I see fashion and comedy serving women in the same way,” said Rowley. “If you can be funny, you can feel confident. If you love what you’re wearing you feel confident. And if you can have both, even better.” A sense of humor has been part of the brand’s DNA since the beginning, and Rowley’s mission to bring joy through each collection remains as strong as ever. “I start each day with 10 minutes of stand-up,” said Rowley. “I’ve long said I wish fashion were funnier. Not necessarily the clothes, but the attitude,” said Rowley.
Returning to the space where Barney’s Downtown once was, sisters-in-law Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard delivered a runway show that they referred to as “one of the most important they’ve ever done.” A special guest—English singer Suki Waterhouse—descended from a spiral staircase and strolled through the crowd singing “Neon Signs,” in a playful nod to the launch of Veronica Beard’s new logo, which was boldly illuminated against a back wall throughout the show. Along with its new logo, the brand introduced a new crest, which was sprinkled throughout the new collection on buttons, blazers, and even on fur. For their latest lineup, the Veronicas embraced their love of the uniform while reimagining all-American prep. Equal parts effortless and luxe, think campus-style, but a little bit rock ‘n’ roll. The collection includes oversized varsity sweaters and schoolboy blazers paired with matching miniskirts and shorts. For day, tailored denim and neutral separates, while velvet suits in shades of ruby and black provide romantic alternatives to a typical dress for evening. Since launching in 2009, the Veronicas have maintained a strong sense of who their woman is—largely because they’ve remained true to themselves and their own sense of personal style. An ever present force at all of their presentations and on their runways, when the Veronicas put on a show, not only do they focus on their editors and buyers—but also on their customers.
Clockwise from top left: Female comedians on-stage during Cynthia Rowley’s FW23 show; Rachel Winters; Jane Krakowski; Kit Keenan and Gigi Powers; Cynthia Rowley; Audrey Trullinger and Brigette Pheloung. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Suki Waterhouse sings “Neon Signs” at Veronica Beard’s FW23 runway show; a denim look; Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard; a mono velvet skirt suit; knee-high socks and shorts reflect the campus prep theme; Amy Julliette Lefévre and Jelena Weir; black and white houndstooth mixed with a floral print; Mary Leest wearing lavender Veronica Beard.
BFA. OPPOSITE PAGE: COURTESY OF VERONICA BEARD
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Carolina Herrera Prior to its Fall 2023 runway show at the Plaza Hotel’s grand ballroom, Carolina Herrera released program notes to attendees—setting the tone for the new collection and offering guests an idea of what to expect. The theme, the brand explained, was “extreme opulence.” Carolina Herrera’s creative director, Wes Gordon, has always been a proponent of showstoppers and making women feel happy, beautiful, and joyful. For this show, Gordon had a personal reason to feel especially joyful, as he and his husband had just welcomed their second child, a little girl, a week earlier. With his latest collection Gordon envisioned the Carolina Herrera woman transforming into a modern Empress, celebrating her unabashed appreciation for beauty and glamour, like Empress Elizabeth of Austria (best known as “Empress Sisi”) centuries earlier. In tune with the release of the Netflix series The Empress, which centers around the 19th century Viennese court of Sisi of Austria, he identified with Sisi because “the same combination is what made Mrs. Herrera and what made the house—that discipline and severity with the flamboyance.” Think sculpted shapes in bold stripes, and shades of lemon yellow and berry pink. Dainty floral and brocade patterns appeared on bell-shaped silhouettes, and neatly tailored capes in red silk and chartreuse felt elegant and fresh. On the more opulent side was a regal looking, black strapless dress covered in jeweled embroidery (trimmings fit for an empress). A winter white dress, jacket, and skirt suit were similarly bejeweled. A floral-print gown fearlessly banded with black stripes seemed like classic Carolina Herrera with an edge, while black and emerald ball skirts, and cascading layers of tulle reminded viewers why the iconic house remains a leader in traditional formal wear.
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Clockwise from top left: Carolina Herrera attends the Carolina Herrera FW23 runway show at The Plaza Hotel; a strapless floral gown banded with black stripes; attendee Olivia Perez. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: cascading yellow tulle; a bejeweled black strapless gown; Vogue editors Anna Wintour and Virginia Smith; a full-skirted pink dress; a floor-length ensemble in black and white tulle; Amy Fine Collins; a colorblocked look in chartreuse, red, and magenta; Fern Mallis. PATRICK MCMULLAN/GETTY IMAGES; CAROLINA HERRERA
Micheal Kors Michael Kors’ moodboard for his Fall/Winter 2023 collection was covered in all of his favorite style icons from the 1970s: Ali MacGraw, Gloria Steinem, Cher, Tina Turner, Lena Horne, Jane Fonda… along with a news clipping of his own mother Joan, a feminist and athlete who made the paper when she tried to try out for the Philadelphia Eagles. “These are my influencers,” read a cheeky social media caption. “The women who intrigued me then and still intrigue me today are the women who break the rules,” Kors said in a pre-show press conference. “They’re strong, powerful, smart [and] happy to admit that they love fashion.” Kors has always loved the ’70s and he’s at his best when he draws upon the American sportswear of the era, with its clean lines, laid-back elegance, and unflappable swagger. The ’70s rocked and rolled down the runway at Lincoln Center in the form of micro shorts and knee-high boots (featuring lots of bare leg in between), low-riding hip belts, short fringe dresses, and amplified bell bottoms—with a key difference between then and now being the materials that Kors chose for his current designs. The fringe is composed of a resilient bonded suede, allowing it to shimmy well into 2070, and two show-stopping, floor-length sequin jumpsuits in silvery gray and muted gold are jersey stitched with micro sequins, achieving glam that also happens to be comfortable (not scratchy). With his latest collection Kors reminded his audience of the considerable value in designing what you know. Relaxed double-breasted blazers, sumptuous camel coats, smartly tailored suits—a bevy of sleek, monochromatic looks had audience members appreciatively nodding with approval. Season after season, Kors fortifies his legacy as one of American fashion’s iconic designers, much like the icons who inspired his current collection. u
COURTESY OF MICHAEL KORS
From above: Designer Michael Kors walks the runway and welcomes applause following his FW23 show at Lincoln Center; a ’70s inspired gold sequin jumpsuit beneath a camel coat. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: A gray herringbone shorts suit; attendees Tommy Chiabra and Frida Aasen; a fringe mini dress paired with python boots; a winter white pantsuit; Kate Hudson and Katie Holmes; Poppy Delevigne; a dove-colored coat and skirt ensemble.
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To celebrate the reopening of its newly transformed flagship store on 57th Street and Fifth Avenue, now known as “The Landmark,” Tiffany & Co. hosted a party on April 27th. Upon arrival, attendees were welcomed to a sneak peak of The Landmark’s new space. Additional festivities were held next door at the House’s previous temporary flagship store. The over-the-top evening featured performances by the New York City Rockettes and Katy Perry . Guests included Gal Gadot , Hailey Bieber , Pharrell , Anya Taylor-Joy , Blake Lively , Michael B. Jordan , and more.
1. Alexandre Arnault, Lauren Santo Domingo and Anthony Ledru 2. New York City Rockettes 3. Gayle King and Mark Wahlberg 4. Malcolm McRae and Anya Taylor-Joy 5. Gal Gadot and Blake Lively 6. Michael B. Jordan and Dwyane Wade 7. Caroline Daur, Georgia Fowler, and Eileen Gu
8. Angelababy 9. Katy Perry 10. Christine Schwarzman, Peter Marino, and Stephen Schwarzman
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New York Last month, Save Venice held its annual Un Ballo in Maschera for 400 guests at The Plaza Hotel. This year’s theme, The Byzantine Ball, was a tribute to Save Venice’s conservation efforts at the Basilica of Santa Maria e San Donato on the island of Murano. The evening was sponsored by BVLGARI and Oscar de la Renta, and raised a record-breaking $1.2 million for its mission to preserve the artistic heritage of Venice.
1. The dance floor 2. Marjorie Gubelmann and Eliza Bolen
3. Andrew Lauren, Julia Foster, and Natascha Schuetz 4.Ulla Parker and Ivy Getty 5. Alex Rose and Mary Snow 6. Bronson van Wyck 7. Grace Fuller and Allie Michler Kopelman 8. Lathan Hall and Alexander Hankin 9. John Paulson, Alina de Almeida, Vittorio Assaf, Valeria Arnell, Mike Martino, Kim Pietrobono, John Scotto, and Maria Elena Scotto 10. Dee Ali and Erica Karsch 11. Laura Kim, Rebecca Vanyo, and Fernando Garcia
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New York On May 3rd, the Cinema Society hosted a screening of Marvel Studios’ Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 3, at iPic Theater in Lower Manhattan. The film was directed by James Gunn, and stars Chris Pratt, Karen Gillan, Bradley Cooper, and Chukwudi Iwuji, who were all present that evening. Later on, an afterparty was held at The Fulton by Jean-Georges, where guests enjoyed passed hors d’oeuvres and themed cocktails, including “Peter Quill’s” QUI tequila ginger margaritas.
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1. Chris Pratt and Bradley Cooper 2. James Gunn 3. Karen Gillan 4. Candace Bushnell and guest 5. Andrew Saffir and Chris Henchy 6. Sophie Sumner 7. Ashley Haas, Bonnie Haas and Dale Moss 8. Marie Forleo, Josh Pais and Seth Herzog 9. Chukwudi Iwuji 10. Jess Thomas, Valesca Guerrand-Hermès, Jake Davies, and Alex Lundqvist
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New York In early May, the Central Park Conservancy’s Women’s Committee held its annual Frederick Law Olmsted Awards Luncheon, raising $4.3 million. Known as the “Hat Luncheon,” the event kicked off with a reception in the park’s Italianate Center Garden, and was followed by a seated three-course meal. Women’s Committee President Jenny Price and Central Park Conservancy President & CEO Betsy Smith welcomed the 1,250 guests. “The Frederick Law Olmsted Awards Luncheon is a celebration of Central Park and of the Central Park Conservancy’s mission to protect it every day of the year,” said Smith. “I am grateful to Jenny and the entire Women’s Committee for their steadfast work and support of the Conservancy and for making this annual luncheon as impactful for the park as ever.”
2. Jamee Gregory and Kari Tiedemann 3. Ali Wentworth and Mariska Hargitay 4. The luncheon 5. Jenny Price and Betsy Smith 6. Sarah Wetenhall and Mary Giuliani 7. Hilary Geary Ross 8. Krista Corl and Lara Meiland-Shaw 9. Gillian Miniter, Muffie Potter Aston, and Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos
10. Betsy Pitts, Renee Rockefeller, and Kristin Clark
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1. David Patrick Columbia and Wendy Carduner
BFA; Patrick McMullan
1. A MODEL’S face repeated four times in a mirrored reflection, captured by John Rawlings for Vogue, 1964.
Pro-Collagen Vitality Eye Cream lifts, brightens, and firms to combat visible signs of aging; $110 at us.elemis.com.
3. BARNEYS NEW YORK Glocela Light Gel Cream protects the skin from harmful environments, helps oil control, and brightens skin; $138 at barneys-beauty.com.
4. SAINT LAURENT Vinyl Cream Lip Stain features up to 10 hours of rich, creamy color; $45 at sephora.com.
5. CHANEL Hydra Beauty Micro Crème Yeux ($70) and Hydra Beauty Micro Serum ($110); visit chanel. com. 6. LA PRAIRIE Skin Caviar Absolute Filler is a volume-enhancing moisturizing cream that helps restore skin density and refine contours; $725 at laprairie.com.
7. CHANTECAILLE 24k Gold Serum Intense is a potent formula with a 360-degree approach to radiance featuring an innovative cocktail of pure gold and Vitamin C plus peptides, botanicals, and hyaluronic acid; $400 at chantecaille.com.
8. AUGUSTINUS BADER Intensely luxurious, hydrating, and nourishing, The Rich Cream supports cellular renewal to dramatically improve the complexion’s appearance; $290 augustinusbader.com.
9. GUERLAIN The Cream- Exceptional Rejuvenating Care; $525 at guerlain.com.
BEAUTY FACE QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE 1 3 7 9 Q 106/ SUMMER 2023
5 8 2 6
& non-sticky, the St. Tropez Express Bronzing Mousse is perfect for a natural looking, streak-free, and long-lasting tan; $44 at us.sttropeztan.com.
Nail Enamel is available in 24 shades inspired by the colors of Hermès enamel and provides radiant color and a longlasting lacquered shine; $50 at hermes.com.
KURKDJIAN À la rose is an ode to femininity, featuring 250 freshly bloomed roses from Grasse that offer their unequaled richness to every bottle; $275 at neimanmarcus.com.
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1. MODEL AND PHOTOGRAPHER Rubinstein advertisement in 1965, photographed by Terence Donovan. 2. R+CO Soft Bounce Natural Texture and Curl Shampoo ($59) and Soft Bounce Natural Texture and Curl Conditioner ($59), part of the R+Co Bleu Collection; visit randco.com. neimanmarcus.com.
Iron, Limited Edition Hair Straightener in Sun-Kissed Taupe; $279 at ghdhair.com. de Parfum; $295 at tomford.com.
9. CHARLOTTE TILBURY hydrates, smooths, and firms; $65 at charlottetilbury.com.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE Q 108/ SUMMER 2023 EVENING LOOKS 1 4 Condé Nast
1. OP ART (OPTICAL ART) is an artistic movement dating from the 1950s that plays with the visual perception of the observer using optical illusions, often created in black and white. A model poses for Vogue Argentina in a nod to popular black and white Op art. 2. AMINA MUADDI BEGUM Crystal-Embellished PVC Slingback Pumps in Black, $1,220 at neimanmarcus.com.
3. CAROLINA HERRERA An asymmetric black and white striped strapless gown from Carolina Herrera’s FW23 collection, carolinaherrera.com. 4. VHERNIER Abbraccio White Gold Diamond Pavé Ring set in 18k white gold with 407 pavé diamonds totaling 5.93 carats, $43,500 at vhernier.com.
EVENING LOOKS 1 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE 5 3 2 Norman Parkinson
1. PRETTY IN PINK Belgian-born British actress Audrey Hepburn photographed by Norman Parkinson wearing white gloves, pearls, and a Givenchy afternoon cocktail dress from the Spring/Summer 1955 collection at ‘La Vigna’, Hepburn’s villa outside of Rome, Italy, in 1955. 2. JEFFREY LEVINSON Elina Plus Glitter Coated Clutch Bag, $2,875 at neimanmarcus.com. 3. VERSACE A silk pink column gown embellished with pink flowers and accessorized with black leather gloves walks the runway during Versace’s FW23 runway show in Los Angeles, California, versace.com. 4. ASPREY Pearl Drop Earrings with pink pear shaped spinels and pearl drops, $10,700 at asprey.com. 5. GRAFF Tilda’s Bow Diamond Necklace of baguette cut and round diamonds (13.50 carats total) set in white gold, $105,000 at graff.com.
1 QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE EVENING LOOKS 2
1. JEAN SHRIMPTON photographed by David Bailey in 1970 dressed in an Oscar de la Renta red and white beach coat with a sweeping ruffled hem—taking beach attire to a new level of elevated glamour. 2. CULT GAIA Enid Acrylic Clutch in Ivory, $328 at cultgaia.com. 3. OSCAR DE LA RENTA Sequin-embroidered silk faille ball gown in red and soft blush with a high-low hem, $19,990 at oscardelarenta.com.
4. VERDURA Crisscross Cuff in 18k gold—worn alone or in pairs, the bold cuff creates a polished look for every occasion. $21,500 at verdura.com. 5. MANOLO BLAHNIK Maysli Lace Buckle Halter Pumps in white feature a 2.75” heel with a stretch halter slingback, $925 at saksfifthavenue.com.
A look from the F/W23 runway channels Françoise Hardy’s ensemble from 1968.
Rose Gold Kogolong Verso Earrings of 18k rose gold and kogolong designed with clip backs (posts available upon request), $9,700 at greenleafcrosby.com.
4 SUMMER 2023 / Q QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE EVENING LOOKS 1 5 3 Jean-Marie Périer
1. FRANÇOISE HARDY wearing a white Paco Rabanne mini chainmail dress, photographed by Jean-Marie Périer in Paris, 1968. 2. ROGER VIVIER Strass Heel Covered Buckle Ballerina flats in Off-White Patent Leather, $1,195 at rogervivier.com. 3. ROCÍO the Coco Clutch in Stone Cream is handmade and created from sustainabe acacia wood with midnight black suede lining and an engraved 18k gold-tone plaque, $506 at houseofrocio.com. 4. PACO RABANNE
Audrey Hepburn shopping with her pet deer, Pippin, in the 1950s (colorized)
> Aerin: aerin.com.
> Akris: 835 Madison Ave. or akris.ch.
> A La Vieille Russie: alvr.com.
> Alexandra Mor: alexandramor.com.
> Asprey: asprey.com.
> Badgley Mischka: badgleymischka.com.
> Bergdorf Goodman: bergdorfgoodman.com.
> Betteridge: betteridge.com.
> Bloomingdale’s: 800.777.0000 or bloomingdales.com.
> Bottega Veneta: 212.371.5511 or bottegaveneta.com.
> Brunello Cucinelli: brunellocucinelli.com.
> Bulgari: bulgari.com.
> Burberry: 877.217.4085 or burberry.com.
> Carolina Herrera: 212.249.6552 or carolinaherrera.com.
> Cartier: 800-227-8437 or cartier.us.
> Chanel: 800.550.0005 or chanel.com.
> Chopard: 212.223.2304 or us.chopard.com.
> David Yurman: 888.398.7626 or davidyurman.com.
> Dennis Basso: 825 Madison Ave., 212.794.4500.
> Diane von Furstenberg: dvf.com.
> Dior: 212.931.2950 or dior.com.
> Diptyque: 971 Madison Ave., 212.879.3330.
> DKNY: dkny.com.
> Dolce & Gabbana: 212.249.4100 or dolceandgabbana.com.
> EF Collection: efcollection.com.
> Elie Saab: eliesaab.com.
> Elizabeth Gage: elizabeth-gage.com.
> Emilio Pucci: 212.901.5004 or emiliopucci.com.
> Fabergé: 579 5th Ave., 646.559.8848.
> Fendi: 598 Madison Ave. or fendi.com.
> GANT: 646.367.5416 or us.gant.com.
> Gauhar Jewelry: gauharjewelry.com.
> Ghurka: 831 Madison Ave. or ghurka.com.
> Gianvito Rossi: gianvitorossi.com.
> Giorgio Armani: 877.361.1176 or armani.com.
> Graff: graff.com
> Greenleaf & Crosby: greenleafcrosby.com
> Gucci: 877.482.2430 or gucci.com.
> H. Stern: hstern.net.
> Harry Winston: harrywinston.com.
> Hermès: 800.441.4488 or hermes.com.
> Ippolita: ippolita.com.
> Irene Neuwirth: At Jeffrey New York, 212.206.1272.
> J.McLaughlin: 844.532.5625 or jmclaughlin.com.
> J. Mendel: 212.832.5830 or jmendel.com.
> Jimmy Choo: 877.955.2466 or jimmychoo.com.
> John Varvatos: johnvarvatos.com.
> Judith Leiber: judithleiber.com.
> Kotur: koturltd.com.
> L’Objet: 370 Bleecker St., 212.659.0316, or l-objet.com.
> Linda Horn: 1327 Madison Ave. or lindahorn.com.
> Loro Piana: At Bergdorf Goodman.
> Louis Vuitton: 866.VUITTON or vuitton.com.
> M. Dumas & Sons: 843.723.8603.
> Maja DuBrul: 325 E. Hopkins Ave., Aspen, Colo., 970.920.1133.
> Manolo Blahnik: 212.582.3007 or manoloblahnik.com.
> Michael Kors: 800.908.1157 or michaelkors.com.
> Moncler: moncler.com.
> Neiman Marcus: 888.888.4757 or neimanmarcus.com.
> Nouvel Heritage: nouvelheritage.com.
> Orlebar Brown: At The Royal Poinciana Plaza in Palm Beach (561.328.3204) or orlebarbrown.com.
> Oscar de la Renta: 888.782.6357 or oscardelarenta.com.
> P. Johnson: pjt.com.
> Patek Philippe: At Wempe New York or patek.com.
> Paco Rabanne pacorabanne.com.com.
> Paul Morelli: paulmorelli.com.
> Ralph Lauren: 888.475.7674 or ralphlauren.com.
> Riedel: riedelusa.net.
> Rizzoli: 1133 Broadway or rizzoliusa.com.
> Roger Vivier: rogervivier.com.
> Roberto Coin: At Neiman Marcus or Roberto Coin, 800.853.5958 and us.robertocoin.com.
> Rolex: 800.36.ROLEX or rolex.com.
> Saint Laurent Paris: 212.980.2970 or ysl.com.
> Saks Fifth Avenue: 877.551.SAKS or saksfifthavenue.com.
> Salvatore Ferragamo: ferragamo.com.
> Stella McCartney: stellamccartney.com.
> Stuart Weitzman: 212.823.9560 or stuartweitzman.com.
> Tibi: 888.420.3334 or tibi.com.
> Tom Ford: 212.359.0300 or tomford.com.
> Tory Burch: toryburch.com.
> Valentino: 212.772.6969 or valentino.com.
> Van Cleef & Arpels: vancleefarpels.com.
> Verdura: 745 Fifth Ave. or verdura.com.
> Veronica Beard: 988 Madison Ave., 646.930.4746, or veronicabeard.com.
> Vhernier: vhernier.com.
> Wempe: 212.397.9000 or wempe.com.
QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE SHOPPING INDEX Q 112/SUMMER 2023
BOB WILLOUGHBY/MPTVIMAGES.COM/ COLORIZED BY CINESPIA