Quench December 2014/January 2015

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TRE STELLE IN FOLDER

QUENCH MAGAZINE ... DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 DECK YOUR HALLS × 22 PREPPING FOR THE BIG PARTY IS ABOUT MORE THAN JUST THE FOOD AND BOOZE.

BY LISA HOEKSTRA THE LAST DROP × 26 TIPS ON HOW TO SALVAGE YOUR LEFT-OVER WINE.

BY ROSEMARY MANTINI BACK ROADS × 29 TRAVELLING THE BACK ROADS OF BC WINE COUNTRY. BY TIM PAWSEY VERNACULAR × 32 INDIGENOUS ISN’T A FOUR LETTER WORD.

BY MICHAEL PINKUS

32

MAKING IT GROW × 34 IS BARBERA THE GAMAY OF ITALY?

BY EVAN SAVIOLIDIS A REAL DISCOVERY × 36 ONE WRITER’S ADVENTURE TO DEVOUR REALLY OLD WINE. BY RICK VANSICKLE BARREL SAMPLE × 39 HOW DOES THE LOWLY BARREL AFFECT THE HIGHEST OF WHISKIES. BY TOD STEWART MON SHERRY AMOUR × 44 COCKTAIL CULTURE MEETS OLD WORLD SHERRY.

BY SARAH PARNIAK BRUNCH! × 46 THE BEST IN BETWEEN MEAL EVER.

BY DUNCAN HOLMES

39 DEPARTMENTS ...

DO YOU HEAR WHAT I HEAR? × 52 HOLIDAY MUSIC AND THE RECIPES THAT FOLLOW.

BY NANCY JOHNSON

A GOOD TONIC × 64 IS GIN THE NEW VODKA?

BY GURVINDER BHATIA

NOTED ... × 54 EXPERTLY-TASTED BUYING GUIDE FOR WINES, BEERS, CIDERS AND SPIRITS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

WHAT’S YOUR POISON? × 66 THIS COLUMN IS NOT FOR THE SQUEAMISH. IT’S ABOUT THE WEIRDEST ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES ON THE PLANET.

BY TONY ASPLER

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 3

@quench_mag ...

Follow, like and connect with us online.

Evan Saviolidis’s “Fab Five” Californian wineries, though great, seemed incomplete to me without Breggo. It’s a small place compared to other bigger wineries but the view of the sheep on the hill and the quality of service are memorable. A must-visit for any Californian tasting, in my book.

Scott Anderson, Vancouver

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Download it for FREE at books.quench.me.

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Quench’s À La Carte section has changed the meaning of the term for me. Loving these articles – they’re the first I read each issue!

Aidan Cooper, email

join us in the conversation

As a wine lover, I have always viewed my passion for finding quality wines as akin to that of an art curator or critic. So when I read Rosemary’s piece about wineries working as a function in society to improve quality of life, my head could not stop bobbing in agreement. I hope more people will draw the connection between art and wine, and give each glass of wine the respect it deserves — whether it is a masterpiece or a winemakers first attempt.

William Yount, email

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IT’S BEEN A YEAR OF QUENCH — AND A WONDERFUL ONE AT THAT. WE’VE WORKED HARD TO BRING YOU THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK IN AN EASILY DIGESTIBLE PACKAGE. All puns aside, we’ve become

seasoned veterans at it.

A lot of you have written in with suggestions for columns and features and we’ve listened. Some of those

4 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

comments have slowly made their way into the pages of Quench already. In the next year, we hope to top it again.

After more than 12 years at the helm of this magazine, I’ve learned that we can’t rest on our laurels — nor should we want to. So next year, we’ll be adding some new columnists and working on fresh features to entice your palate. As always, I’ll enlist your help to make this magazine an allaround fun read for everyone who comes across it.

What regions would you like us to dissect? Is there a food style you’d like to master? What are you curious about and how can we satisfy that avid curiosity? Send in your thoughts to ideas@quench.me. Together we will make the pages of Quench pulsate with your cravings.

You owe it to yourself.

GREAT BEER LIVES

HERE

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Prepare for your summer pairings… Think Pink!

Cornellana rosé, 2014, Cachapoal Valley From Jane Masters MW: Produced from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Syrah grapes, these were harvested by machine in the third week of March. after crushing, the juice was left in contact with the skins for a full 36 hours producing a deep, bright cranberry juice colour. aromas of strawberry leaves, red fruits and herbs lead to a soft, fresh palate with berry fruits and a zippy finish.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah Strawberry leaf, red fruits red berries, crisp finish, [00]

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Opimian sparks conversation, creates friendship and connects Canadians to winemakers worldwide through their love of wine. as Canada’s premier wine club since 1973, Opimian forges bonds between the men and women behind the wine to the people who enjoy it most – our members.

Two of the most passionate people we’ve had the pleasure of working with are the powerhouse Chilean couple, ricardo Ullrich of Viña la rosa and his wonderful wife, Daniela Fadda.

With a vineyard history dating back to 1824, Viña la rosa has been a trusted and valued supplier since Opimian first ventured into Chile in 1998. it was not until the early 2000s that ricardo joined the Viña la rosa team to became the face of north america, showing Canadians and americans alike that Chilean wines possess a character all their own, especially from a supplier with as much history as Viña la rosa. ricardo’s knowledge of the wine industry coupled with his Chilean roots and Viña la rosa’s unique, traditional wines create a force to be reckoned with in north america.

Share The Total Wine Experience and follow your passion. opim.ca • 1.800.361.9421

CONTRIBUTORS ...

Sarah Parniak is a freelance writer, bartender and consultant with a (healthy) spirits obsession that she channels into a weekly drinks column for Toronto’s NOW Magazine. She’s represented Canada in international bartending competitions and currently works behind the stick at People’s Eatery in Chinatown on weekends. When she’s not working in bars, she’s usually drinking in them. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram @s_parns.

Joanne Will has been following the journey of food, from farm to table, since she began writing for Quench in 2006. She’s also been a regular columnist for the Globe and Mail since 2009, and is currently a Knight-Wallace Journalism Fellow at the University of Michigan.

Wine is a never ending story and an infinite source of discoveries, keeping Gilles Bois busy all year long, at home or abroad, as a wine judge or among friends. He likes to share his passion with the people who make wine and with readers across Canada.

www.quench.me ...

Editor-in-chief

Aldo Parise editor@quench.me WINE EDITOR

Gurvinder Bhatia gbhatia@quench.me

Food Editor

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Shannon Fitzpatrick sfitzpatrick@quench.me editorial assistants

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Contributors

Lisa Hoekstra, Rick VanSickle, Michael Pinkus, Tim Pawsey, Evan Saviolidis, Sarah Parniak, Duncan Holmes Tasters

Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore, Jonathan Smithe

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DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 7

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À LA CARTE Q SCHOOL × 12 THE ART OF FOLDING NAPKINS DECIPHERED. GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON × 15 TEN TERRIFIC DIPS FOR THE HOLIDAYS. UMAMI BY JOANNE WILL × 16 A LOOK BACK ON THE LAST SIX YEARS. NEXT STOP × 18 TOP BOUTIQUES FOR WINE LOVERS. FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC × 19 GOOD PLANNING IS GOOD FUN. LAZY MIXOLOGIST

BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO × 20 OH MY DARLING, CLEMENTINE. BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL × 21 WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS TO USE WHEN SERVING CHAMPAGNE?

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 11

Q SCHOOL ...

WORK OF ART ANYONE WHO HAS BEEN TO A FANCY PARTY KNOWS that nap-

kins can be more than just a tool to mop up spills and dab the corners of mouths. They can also be beautiful accents on the table to help welcome guests. The napkin swan is only one of the more interesting folds. Time to become an expert.

MATERIALS

Square cloth napkin Square piece of tinfoil (slightly smaller than the napkin)

DIRECTIONS ×× Lay napkin on the table with one point up; each point will be labelled top,

right, left and bottom. ×× Place the tinfoil on top — folding it with the napkin will keep the swan sturdy. ×× Fold in half to create a centre line from top to bottom corner. Flip (moving tinfoil to the top of the napkin). ×× Fold left over so that it’s 3/4s of the way straight across towards the right. ×× Fold right over so that it’s 3/4s of the way straight across towards the left. ×× Fold right 1/4 of the way back towards the right side; do the same for the left corner. The end result will look a bit like a paper airplane. (If you pull the corners out, the napkin will fold open like a book.) ×× Flatten the napkin. Fold bottom point up so the napkin is in half. Fold bottom point down 1/4 of the way to make the swan’s head. ×× Hold up the napkin so it is a 2-dimensional swan looking straight at you.

Pull wings together behind the head so it is folded in half. ×× Lay it down on its side and fold a tiny bit of the bottom up to make a “foot”; flip and repeat for the other side. ×× Stand the swan up; pull the tail and head away from each other. ×× Fan the tail and set the swan on the table. ×

12 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

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TO COME

‘Tis the season to be tasty.

Holiday Charcuterie Selecttion

The ho The oli lida da ays are e a tim ime e to celeb ebrate witth th he on one es you es u lov ve. e Thi his s se s ason,, de deli lig li ght yo ght gh y urr fami fa mily mi ly y and friends ds s wit ith h th the e di d sttinctive tast stte off Pil illler’ ler’ r’s arrti t sa san n de deli l mea ats s. Th hey ey’r ’re hi ’re high gh gh in pro rottein, te free of gl g ut uten en and n are re sur ure to o be th he ce cent n errpi piec e e of you ec ur ho oli lida day da y sp s read ad a d.

V si Vi sit piller ers co ers. com m for fo or th t is del elic icio io ous u rec cip ipe e an and mo more re e.

welcome home

GOOD FOOD BY NANCY JOHNSON ...

Ten Terrific Dips for the Holidays A PLATTER OF CRUDITÉS,

a toasted baguette, some fancy crackers, a picture-perfect bunch of red grapes and you’ve got yourself an instant party or a night-time nosh after an exhausting day of shopping.

A few tips for success. For the fluffiest dips and spreads, be sure cream cheese is softened to room temperature.

Eliminate raw onion’s bite by rinsing chopped onions in a colander with cool water; pat dry before using. Fresh herbs give the freshest, brightest flavour, but for the sake of convenience, you can use dried. One tablespoon of fresh herbs equals about 1 teaspoon of dried.

BUTTERMILK RANCH DIP: Whisk 1/4 cup buttermilk, 1/2 cup sour cream, 1/2 cup mayo, 1 minced garlic clove, 1/2 tsp Dijon mustard, dash of Tabasco. Stir in 1 tbsp minced fresh herbs (try a combo of tarragon, parsley, chives).

SUN-DRIED TOMATO SPREAD: Mix in food processor: 1 package cream cheese with 2 tbsp milk. Add 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, 1/4 cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes drained and chopped, and 1 tbsp fresh oregano.

BLUE CHEESE DIP: Stir together 1 cup

mayo, 1 tbsp grated onion, 1 tbsp fresh minced parsley, 1 tbsp fresh minced dill, salt and pepper to taste.

mayo, 1/2 cup sour cream, 1/4 cup blue cheese, 2 tbsp minced fresh parsley, 2 tbsp grated onion, 1 minced clove garlic, 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice, 1 tbsp cider vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Also great with chicken wings!

HERB CHEESE SPREAD: Mix in food processor: 2 packages cream cheese, softened; 1 stick butter, softened; 2 tsp fresh oregano, 1 tsp fresh dill, 1 tsp fresh basil, 1 tsp fresh thyme, 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper, 2 chopped cloves garlic. Refrigerate 4 hours or more.

FIG, PECAN AND GOAT CHEESE SPREAD: Pour boiling water over 3/4 cup

snipped, dried figs. Let stand 15 minutes. Drain.

Mix 3/4 cup crumbled goat cheese, 1/2 cup sour cream, 2 tbsp milk, 1 tbsp minced fresh basil, 1 tsp minced fresh thyme, salt and pepper. Stir in figs and 1/4 cup chopped pecans.

ROASTED RED PEPPER DIP: Mix in

food processor: 1 chopped roasted red pepper and 1/2 cup goat cheese until smooth. Garnish with minced chives.

DILL DIP: Mix 3/4 cup sour cream, 3/4 cup

BEER CHEESE SPREAD: In small sauce-

pan, bring 1/2 cup beer to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 1 minute. (This step tames the alcohol in the beer.) Cool to room temperature.

Mix in food processor: 2 cups extra-sharp shredded cheddar cheese, 1/4 cup minced onion, 1 clove garlic, 2 tbsp ketchup, 1 tbsp Dijon mustard, 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce, 1 1/2 tsp Tabasco. With machine running, drizzle in beer and process until smooth. Refrigerate 2 hours.

SHRIMP DIP: With electric mixer, beat 1 package softened cream cheese with 1 cup sour cream until fluffy. Stir in 1 package dry Good Seasons Italian salad dressing mix and 1/2 cup chopped cooked shrimp.

BLACK BEAN DIP: Purée in food proces-

sor: 1 drained can black beans with 6 tbsp medium-hot salsa, 1 1/2 tbsp fresh lime juice and 1 minced clove garlic. Transfer to bowl. Top with diced tomatoes. Serve with tortilla chips. × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 15

UMAMI BY JOANNE WILL ...

A look back

I WAS GIVEN THIS COLUMN a little over six years ago, to pro-

file farmers, producers and chefs who make a difference with the way they approach the food we eat. It’s a difference we can taste, see in their care for the environment and feel in the contribution their products make to our health.

Among the dozens of interviews, many stand out. These are but a few.

Chef Michael Stadtländer, who created the biennial Canadian Chefs’ Congress in 2008 with an aim to “connect chefs to our land in solidarity with farmers, fishers, gardeners, foragers and all artisanal food producers and reinforce the passion and integrity of Canadian food culture.” The first Congress was held at Stadtländer’s Eigensinn Farm near Collingwood, Ontario.

A former lawn-care executive who now runs a thriving community-supported agriculture model in the heart of a big city; a family on Vancouver Island producing balsamic vinegar the ancient way. A nut farm that began as a hobby in 1972 near Niagara-on-the-Lake, and is now home to brazil nuts, pecans, hazelnuts, black walnut, heartnuts, rare fruits such as quince and mulberry — and nearly 200 chestnut trees. Nuts and trees are sold, and test orchards are maintained for research, breeding and evaluating the trees and crop.

A West Coast spot-prawn fisherman dedicated to promoting his local seasonal delicacy. Lentil farmers and mustard producers on the prairies. The artisanal baker known as “The Bread Lady” with her wood-fired oven perched on a hill overlooking the Pacific Ocean, teaching her techniques to group after group of home-baking hopefuls.

16 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

Another highlight was First Nations Chef Andrew George, who grew up in Wet’suwet’en traditional territory in the northern interior of BC. He’s represented Canada at the Culinary Olympics, and today his hand in the education of young cooks is changing lives via a culinary arts program designed to bring low-income families into the industry.

The national manager for the Sea Choice sustainable seafood program had much to say about working to find solutions from ocean to plate with fishermen, seafood businesses, consumers and chefs.

The Yorkshire pudding expert from the UK was a delight, along with a visit to a West Coast water-buffalo dairy. The owners’ search for an animal that would thrive on local vegetation and yield a unique product led them to import Canada’s first herd of water buffalo from Bulgaria in 2000. In its 120-year history, no chemical pesticides, herbicides, growth hormones or antibiotics have been used on their farm property.

There were also many investigations into family recipes and handed-down traditions, including a sourdough starter brought from Norway to Canada nearly a century ago. It’s still used by the surviving generations to make traditional Nordic Christmas cake each year. I even had the opportunity to interview my grandmother, now 94 years young, whose love of food and dedication to fresh, healthy produce inspires me every day.

So when making culinary choices, please remember your local producers and those who dedicate their lives to our gastronomic pleasures. They are all around you. ×

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BY S . P E L L E G R I N O

Meet Chef Grant van Gameren, the culinary pioneer and driving force behind Toronto’s Bar Isabel, named as Canada’s Best New Restaurant in 2014. We asked him to reveal his sources for inspiration and ingredients, and tell us what’s on his radar for the future.

TO COME

CAPTURE THE ESSENCE O F W H AT ’S H A P P E N I N G IN THE CANADIAN CULINARY SCENE.

Orphans cooking with orphans.

In Toronto, the people opening restaurants now are in their late 20s, early 30s who haven’t been slugging it out in a brigade-style kitchen for years like the founding fathers. There’s a generation of us rebellious teenagers just opening up restaurants, hiring our friends and taking risks. Hopefully, these young chefs grow into the leaders of Canada’s modern culinary movement.

HOW DO CULINARY T R E N D S I M PA C T YO U R MENU?

I’m too busy to concern myself with trends. Evolution is made, not speculated. If there’s anything I’m into, it’s about finding something new. Maybe not something new to the world, but new to me. That’s my food trend.

W H AT I S I N S P I R I N G YO U RIGHT NOW?

Gooseneck barnacles-pre-historiclooking crustacean creatures, super tasty. Only in season for about a month. When I sourced some, I was

so excited that I posted a photo on Instagram. 48 hours later there was an article about how these are the “next new thing.”

ASIDE FROM THE F O O D , W H AT M A K E S A G R E AT R E S TA U R A N T EXPERIENCE?

Everything you put on the table matters. The details can dramatically elevate the dining experience—like a good quality napkin, artisanal bread or a bottle of S.Pellegrino.

Even the bottle itself is beautiful; it’s like a bottle of wine. Water is the first thing served at the table and the last thing that remains.

So it only makes sense that the kind of water you serve is considered.

If you think about it, filtered water or tap water—it’s only as good as its source.

GIVE US A HINT ABOUT W H AT ’S O N T H E H O R I Z O N F O R YO U ?

I’m excited about a new venture I’m working on inspired by the Pintxo bars of San Sebastian. It’s a completely different way of eating, very social and a new style for Toronto. It’s food-at-your-ownpace that takes traditional tapas to a whole new level.

GRANT VA N GA M E R E N “E V E RY T H I N G YO U P U T O N T H AT TA B L E M AT T E R S . T H E D E TA I L S C A N D R A M A T I C A L LY E L E VA T E T H E D I N I N G EXPERIENCE, LIKE A GOOD QUALITY NAPKIN, ARTISANAL BREAD OR A BOT TLE OF S.PELLEGRINO.”

For more inspiration visit

T E XT BY

F I N E D I N I N G LOV E R S . C O M

PH OTO BY

Angie Mosier Brock Elbank

NEXT STOP ...

A BOUTIQUE FOR EVERY TASTE

Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay — wine in all its incarnations makes for a satisfying libation. A handful of Canadian boutiques share in this passion for the drink, providing everything from custom-made wine racks to specialty stemware for wine enthusiasts to revel in its smell, taste and presentation, and enjoy the full gourmet experience.

LIQUID BOUTIQUE

www.yelp.ca/biz/liquid-boutique-halifax This Halifax treasure trove is a haunt for lovers of all libations.

Martini shakers, brandy snifters, absinthe fountains, beer steins and coffee machines; there isn’t a drink unaccounted for.

Whatever the liquid, this expansive boutique located in Park Lane Mall has got the paraphernalia to go with it. And wine is no exception. Moderate- to high-priced stemware of all shapes, sizes and types as well as decanters and other fine wine accessories are available for purchase, making this address a must for devoted wine consumers.

KENSINGTON WINE MARKET

www.kensingtonwinemarket.com Oenophiles in Calgary know to beat a path to Kensington Wine Market for bottles that are out of the ordinary. Specialty wines from around the globe abound, grouped by origin and with a short description attached to ensure clients know exactly what they’re getting. The market is also a prime location for single malt scotches, whiskeys and all types of brews, from the rare to the seasonal ale brewed in smaller batches. Wine-tasting journals and a set of Bordeaux wine glasses are only some of the wine accessories on offer.

ROSEHILL WINE CELLARS

www.rosehillwinecellars.com As the name suggests, this 7,500 sq. ft. showroom in Etobicoke is home to all manner of residential and commercial wine cellars, complete with custom racking systems, handcrafted doors and even wine cellar management software to help wine aficionados sort through their growing collections. In addition to the wine storage, there is an extensive and enviable selection of wine accessories, including decanters, luxe stemware and leather-encased corkscrews made with precious wood.

HOME BREW SUPPLIES

www.homebrewsupplies.ca While many boutiques boast a dedicated section for all things beer, this Brampton store is virtually all about the home brew.

From brewing equipment to supplies — think the requisite brew kettle, funnel, straining tools and the like as well as brewing hops, malt and other ingredients — it’s a one-stop shop for beginner home brewers and bona fide beer cicerones alike. In addition to brewing essentials, the quirky vintage tap handles for sale make this supplier all the more appealing. × 18 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

FEED BY TOM DE LARZAC ...

GOOD PLANNING IS GOOD FUN ‘TIS THE SEASON OF THE DINNER PARTY! For most, that conjures up happy thoughts of family, friends and big meals where we all get to indulge a little too much. For others, the thought may be a bit frightening, particularly when we think on all the work that goes into hosting a dinner party. But it doesn’t have to be that way — I’ve learned that balance is key.

This may sound crazy, but I really enjoy cooking for others, sitting around devouring a good meal and just watching everyone have a good time. I typically will host a few large dinner parties a year, the kind where seating everyone is a problem, where I need to beg, borrow and steal chairs from friends and family in order to make sure there is a spot for every person.

My first foray into hosting a large dinner party was a shock.

There is no other way to say it ... I was overwhelmed. I spent all day cleaning, arranging, prepping, cleaning some more and dinner was still two hours late getting things on the table. Looking back, I was frustrated with the experience and wanted to find a way to make it more enjoyable.

Ever since that first time, my approach and philosophy has changed. Planning is really the key, and it’s that one thing that really makes a dinner party a success. I take particular pride in serving good food, but I have learned that no matter how good the food is, if it is overly time-consuming, it doesn’t work for dinner parties. Here are three things I think about when creating a menu: 1) what can I make in advance; 2) what involves relatively little prep; and 3) how do I use as many cooking surfaces as possible (oven, stove, griddle, etc).

The real key is to ensure that at least part of your meal can be prepped ahead of time. If I can simply pop them in the oven or on the stove with minimal attention at crunch time — and it tastes amazing — it’s a winner in my book. Beyond just prepping, dishes that require little assembly are also crucial. And finally, consider limiting how many items you make. Instead of two proteins and four sides, cutting it back to one protein and three sides can still make the meal perfect.

There are many considerations to make when hosting a dinner party. You have to think of what will make the experience easier for you and still be great for the guests. I definitely want everyone to like the food but, at the end of the day, I need to also be able to sit down and enjoy dinner, too.

MOLTEN CHOCOLATE CAKE

200 g bittersweet chocolate (or semisweet, if preferred)

1 stick melted butter + 2 tbsp extra

2 whole eggs

2 egg yolks

1/4 cup fine sugar + 2 tbsp extra Pinch of salt

2 tbsp all-purpose flour (extra if necessary)

2 tbsp icing sugar (optional) 1. Preheat oven to 450°F. 2. Melt chocolate and 1 stick butter together (dou-

ble boiler recommended).

3. In a large bowl, beat together eggs, yolks, 1/4 cup sugar and salt until the mixture becomes a pale yellow colour and slightly thick.

4. Fold together chocolate-butter mixture, egg mixture and flour.

5. Grease 4 ramekins with extra butter. Sprinkle extra sugar into each ramekin, moving it around to all sides. Remove extra sugar from each ramekin.

6. Pour cake mix evenly into ramekins, leaving 1/4 inch of room for the cake to rise. Place in heated oven for 12 minutes.

7. Remove from heat, let cool for 1 minute, and tip upside down onto a plate. Sprinkle with icing sugar.

Serve and enjoy.

8. These cakes can be made up to 24 hours in advance, and they store well in the fridge. Simply remove an hour before cooking to allow the cake to come to room temperature before baking. ×

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 19

LAZY MIXOLOGIST BY CHRISTINE SISMONDO ...

OH MY DARLING, CLEMENTINE I KNOW I’M NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH A SPECIAL PLACE IN HER HEART FOR THE CLEMENTINE. Thanks to its low-acidity, seedlessness and thin-skinned

peel-ability, the tangerine/sweet orange hybrid is practically ideal for childhood binge-eating. Since those little wooden boxes full of tiny little oranges marked “Maroc” always seemed to turn up around the holidays, the distinctive aroma of that sweet burst of oil brings the magic of that season right back.

But are there grown-up uses for the clementine, too? It’s so tangy and fresh that it seems like a natural fit for boozy drinks, yet you rarely see clementine cocktails on the menu. Turns out the reason for the omission has nothing to do with how fruit interacts with booze.

“You wouldn’t want to commit too much to them because the season is so short,” explains Josh Lindley of Toronto’s Bar Isabel. “And you can’t really replace a clementine, because it’s such a distinct citrus that nothing else will quite do.”

Since Bar Isabel is constantly rotating menus to take advantage of short-lived ingredients, Lindley has more opportunity than most to play around with clementines, which, he says, are a “really interesting ingredient to work with because they’re so mild, sweet and juicy.”

These desirable characteristics apparently came about by accident, in the garden of an Algerian orphanage run by a group of French monks (including one Brother Clément) where the tangerine and sweet orange cross-pollinated. It’s a hotly contested origin story, but at least we know how it got its name.

But how should we work with these delicate little fruits? Lindley warns that working with clementines is rarely a slam dunk: “A lot of bartenders look at recipes and think they can just replace a grapefruit with a pomelo and it will be fine,” he says.

“Sometimes it is, but with a clementine, you really need to adjust everything because it’s such a unique flavour.”

As such, Lindley has designed a special cold-weather Clementine Cobbler cocktail for us. He describes it as a cross between “Christmas punch and a sherry cobbler.” So grab a box to make this drink before the season is over. If you wait, it might be lost and gone forever.

At least for another year.

20 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

CLEMENTINE COBBLER

BY JOSH LINDLEY

1 clementine 3 tbsp of maple syrup 4 oz fine sherry 1 dash Scrappy’s aromatic bitters 1/4 cinnamon stick

Cut clementine into four slices, baste with maple syrup and bake in oven at 300˚F for 15 minutes. Remove and let cool. Muddle baked clementines in shaker and then add ice and fino sherry. Shake, strain into ice-filled glass and garnish with a little chuck of cinnamon stick and a dash of aromatic bitters. ×

× Visit quench.me/search-mixed/ for more drink recipes

BON VIVANT BY PETER ROCKWELL ...

ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM

What’s the best glass to use when serving Champagne?

While I’ve always been of the opinion that bubbly tastes best drunk from the shoe of a supermodel, the debate about which formal receptacle to use when getting your fizz on has more twists and turns than Kate Upton’s anatomy.

Let’s start with the coupe. That’s the one that looks like a baby bird bath. Champagne lore has it that the size was based on the left bosom of Marie Antoinette. Though the story goes that it was her idea, its teeny-weeny bowl seems more like an insult to me.

It turns out the coupe was a 17th-century creation, a time well before Marie could have come up with a plan to use her bra cup for inspiration. The glass had its heyday in the 1930s when post-prohibition high society popularized its use to swig their champers.

Movies like The Great Gatsby may have immortalized the coupe in the hearts and barware collections of the average Canadian, but it was never more than a means to get wine past your lips. Its small, wide mouth doesn’t do anything to showcase bubbles adequately and only encourages the wine to go as flat as, well, Marie Antoinette.

The flute, with its tall torpedo shape, became the go-to glass because a sparkling wine’s effervescence looks Katy-Perry sexy as it rises up its shaft. Plus, its small upper opening keeps the liquid fresh and moussey.

Problem is, neither glass was designed to feature a sparkling’s aroma or flavour.

In the Champagne region, a glass with a defined tulip-like bowl is the chalice of choice. Combining the seductive body of the flute with the girth of a standard tasting glass, it makes the wine look good while also revealing its nuances.

Any time I’ve tasted with Champagne winemakers it’s been out of an all-purpose white-wine glass. James Bond might not approve, but they provide the best avenue to discover everything that makes a sparkler shine.

sumption experience, I love how a wine smells, tastes and then works its way into my system equally. That doesn’t mean that there isn’t a strong argument for the philosophy that where the nose goes the rest of your senses will follow.

Your schnoz is like a train to the brain. It takes aromatic cues on a trip to the inside of your cranium where they spark memories of similar scents and the situations where you smelled them.

Ever walked into a bakery and suddenly get overwhelmed by thoughts of your grandmother’s kitchen or get a whiff of roast turkey in July that brings back the ghosts of Christmas past?

Pulled in through your nasal passages, a wine’s bouquet massages your grey matter, which starts looking for comparable aromas to allow you to rationalize what’s flowing from your glass.

It’s why we equate blackberry to Cabernet Sauvignon and gooseberry to Sauvignon Blanc. Our noggin processes what we smell into something we can comprehend. I can never rely on my palate to provide as elaborate a database.

I’ve also found that what I identify in the aroma majorly influences what I’ll experience in my mouth. If I smell cherry, I tend to taste cherry. While I’m sure there’s a fancy scientific name for why that happens, for me the outcome is nothing to sniff at. ×

A friend told me that a wine’s aroma is more important than how it tastes.

What do you think?

As someone who has a respect for the beginning, middle and end of the wine con-

× Ask your questions at bonvivant@quench.me

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 21

DECK YOU

by Lisa Hoekstra

‘TIS THE SEASON OF THE HOLIDAY PARTY AND DECKING THE HALLS CAN BE A DAUNTING TASK, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU’RE ON A TIGHT SCHEDULE. Since my

“I absolutely love enchanted forest themes,” says Kessel (which is no surprise, since Greenscape specializes in providing event-worthy trees, flowers and other greenery). “From dark fairytales to whimsical Midsummer Night’s Dream themes to futuristic Avatar settings, I love a good ‘once upon a time’ concept for events … it is so easy to be endlessly creative and fit any budget with this theme.”

LET’S START AT THE BEGINNING.

HAVE YOU GOT YOUR BUDGET AND THEME?

idea of party decorations includes streamers and balloons in primary colours, I’ve consulted a few experts for advice on how to decorate to make your event the party of the season.

Before you start pondering the multitude of decisions you need to make, set down a budget. “Even for my most casual, in-home gatherings, I set a budget,” says Keri Miller, CSEP, partner and creative director of Calgary’s e=mc2 events.

Your chosen budget will provide you with a guideline for all of the other decisions you make. “The budget determines everything,” says Corinne Kessel, the principal of Greenscape Design and Decor, a design build company that provides decor pieces for event rentals across Canada and the US. According to Kessel, a budget determines how many people you invite, how high-end your menu will be, who provides the drinks (you or your guests) and finally “how elaborate the decor can be.”

Once you’ve set your budget, ask yourselves the five W’s — who, what, where, when and why — says Miller. She explains that answering the five W’s “provides you [with] a filter that you can use when posed with the questions about entertainment and design.” Once you’ve determined this, you can move onto the more exciting decisions of party-planning. Christine DenOuden, owner of Kleur Design — an interior design company based in Prince Edward County, Ontario, decides on the party’s occasion, theme and mood first. “That will set the tone and keep all my selections cohesive for the subsequent decisions that need to be made.”

Picking a theme can be tricky, but it’s all about the season and the space. “Don’t fight the holidays,” says Miller. “Build a design around your venue or home first, and elaborate from there.” She gives the example that a black and white theme in a home with warm, spicy tones would be “like putting a band-aid on a wound,” so planning your decor to match your space is important.

22 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

Good. Before you can start decorating, develop a plan for the interior design of your event — what will you use and how will it fit together to promote your theme. “The lighting, music and decor can dramatically impact your event,” says Kessel. “Lights too bright — people won’t dance; music too loud — guests can’t mingle and chat; decor placed too low if people are standing or too high if they are seated — guests won’t see it and it has no impact. Consider all the senses.”

Think about your theme and keep that forefront in your mind as you plan the decor and make your purchases. “Our theme for last year’s Festival of Trees Holiday Home tour [in Belleville] was ‘Glamorous’,” says DenOuden. “I decided on a colour, Chartreuse, and I had my theme, Glamorous, so I made all my selections based on those parameters. Before I purchased anything for the decor, I asked myself, ‘does this feel like a Glamorous Chartreuse Christmas?’ If the answer was yes, then the item made it into my design.”

When developing the theme and deciding what to put in your space, draw on inspiration from websites like Pinterest, design apps and interior design stores. “For theme, DIY and decor ideas, Pinterest is my go-to site/app,” says DenOuden.

“I create a board for my event and pin my little heart out!”

Though be careful, I know from experience that Pinterest can get addictive, and Kessel concurs: “I guarantee if you search ‘affordable event decor ideas’ on Pinterest, your family will not see you for a week.”

UR HALLS

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 23

Getting Organized

Old-fashioned day planners or the new-fangled iCal will help you set your due dates and keep on schedule. “I tend to fall back on my trusty old fashion agenda/notebook,” says DenOuden.

“My main reason is so that I don’t miss any of my key planning dates like ordering chair covers or confirming flower arrangements.”

“Give me my email, iCal, and an excel spreadsheet and I can do anything!” says Kessel.

Apps like Pro Party Planner and Pro Holiday Planner can keep you on track and in control of each step in the planning process. “There are a lot of apps on the market that could be great for those wanting to throw their own cocktail or dinner party,” says Miller. “Pro Party Planner [for example] will help you get organized effectively by keeping track of your guests, budget and logistics in one place.”

An online notebook or cloud storage software like Evernote or Google Drive will help keep your notes organized and accessible from any device (and thus, anywhere). “I use Evernote to collect information and keep myself on track,” says Miller.

Kessel mentions that “at Greenscape, we juggle numerous events at once, so making use of Google Drive with shared docs, calendars, and production schedules that are accessible anywhere, by anyone on my team, is key.”

Don’t forget the ever-useful checklist. These help you stay calm and in control throughout the whole planning process. “I make a checklist and update it daily for my immediate to dos,” says Kessel. “I love the energy, excitement and chaos of event planning, so I rarely feel stressed by the endless list of tasks.”

“A timeline or checklist is imperative,” says Miller. “The completion dates, the tasks and WHO is taking care of it is very important, leave room for the BIG X for when it’s done, it’s stress relieving!”

24 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

“An app like myPANTONE allows users to take a photo of an inspiring piece of art, or item of clothing or handbag and provides a colour palate to start your overall design process,” says Miller. “For those people that can’t visualize how to use varying shades of colour and textures together, this provides a creative ZAP that starts the process.”

Big name home decor stores can also be a great source of inspiration — and, depending on your budget, you can purchase your items as you find them, getting two birds with one metaphorical stone. “I love looking at the way IKEA takes a product in their stores and turns it into something else,” says Miller. “Really look at what they are using for a shelf and what they use on the shelf when touring their showrooms.”

With the right creative mind-set, anything can add to your event’s decor. “The key to budget design is looking at existing items differently,” says Miller. One quick tip she suggests is nestling your living room end tables over your dining room table for height and dimension, “not only providing a unique way to use your existing furniture, but a way to save space.”

“Party decorations are everywhere,” says Kessel. “You just need to think about how to use everyday items in creative ways.

You can walk into a grocery store and buy lemons or apples and put them in a glass vase and you have an affordable colourful centrepiece; an upside down wine glass can be an elegant pillar candleholder; paint things from your yard like pinecones, rocks and branches in unexpected colours.”

JUST REMEMBER, YOU’RE ON A BUDGET.

In all this researching and looking around, it’s easy to get lost in exciting ideas. Remember to keep your budget in mind as you go.

In fact, the cliché “less is more” applies. “If you are on a budget, spend all your decor money on one big impact decoration rather than trying to get your theme across with a bunch of small stuff,” suggests DenOuden.

“On a budget, you need to concentrate your efforts on impact,” says Miller. “Don’t dilute it with small things placed all over your space.”

Simple items that you can buy in bulk are great budget-worthy decor options. “Check out your local fabric store rather than purchasing pre-made table clothes,” says DenOuden. “Use the fabric to continue your theme throughout the space.”

Another option is to mix real flowers with fake ones. “To make large floral arrangements more affordable, I mix in high quality faux flowers with fresh flowers,” says Kessel. “I use artificial greenery and flowers for areas where you can see but can’t touch, and will incorporate fresh flowers and live trees into decor areas that guests can touch or smell to add extra realism.”

Cheers to the New Year!

Champagne is the traditional “cheers-ing” beverage of the holidays, but too much of a good thing can be overwhelming. Before you pop open yet another bottle of bubbly, consider treating your guests to one of these sparkling alternatives, all of which look great in a champagne flute.

KIR ROYALE

6 oz champagne or sparkling wine 1/2 oz crème de cassis Blackberries, for garnish An oldie but a goodie. Combine and serve.

THE MARIE ANTOINETTE COCKTAIL

2 oz vodka 3/4 oz Cointreau 1/2 oz Lillet blonde

1/4 oz demerara simple syrup Splash of French Sparkling Lemonade Small sprigs of fresh thyme A citrus-y bubbly that will tame any thirst.

Muddle thyme within the shaker. Add ice, vodka, Cointreau, Lillet and simple syrup. Shake well and serve in chilled champagne flute topped with a splash of French lemonade.

ELDERFLOWER CHAMPAGNE COCKTAIL

3

2

oz Prosecco oz St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur Club soda Cucumber, thinly sliced Fresh Mint

Extra bubbly for the perfect celebration. Fill a tumbler with ice. Fill three-quarters of the glass with Prosecco and club soda. Add thinly sliced cucumber and fresh mint. Top with St-Germain.

SPARKLING CIDER

For the designated drivers in your midst, a glass of sparkling cider is sweet, savoury and oh so delicious.

Lighting is another source of high-impact design tricks you can use to your advantage. “I am known for my use of lighting in all my designs and this is no different at my own cocktail parties,” says Miller. “At home, no overhead lights are used (unless dimmed), I’ll bring in additional table lamps from around the house on the buffets, the small clip lights found at Walmart that clamp on to tables and mirrors that I can focus on to flowers or food.”

“Lighting will always make things better,” says Kessel. “Good lighting can create drama in a room and you can instantly change the mood by dimming the lights or draw attention to decor by making sure there is a light pointed at it.” She suggests transforming your space with coloured up-lights, a string of minilights or even candles.

TIME TO GET OUT THE BOUGHS OF HOLLY.

Once you’ve got your materials and accents, it’s time to make your space look its best. Look around and choose your focal point for each room. “I always consider where my guests’ eyes will be looking the most and the longest, and focus on creating the best impact in those areas,” say Kessel. Maybe there’s an attractive architectural element that could really pull your theme together or a centrepiece that you just absolutely love.

Once you’ve chosen a focal point, arrange the furniture to emphasize it. “Really look at your space and walk the experience as though you are the guest,” suggests Miller. She explains that you should consider where your guests will hang their coats, what furniture they’ll have to walk around and where they’ll congregate the most (though we all know that 90 percent of all parties end up in the kitchen!) and how these will contribute to the overall theme. “If you want ideas on how to position your furniture … go to showrooms like Urban Barn … seeing how they create very intimate, themed spaces in a tight space will help understand how you can stage your home.”

Just remember that continuity is key. “A continuation of the design in the washroom, where everyone goes, is nice,” says Miller. “And regardless of design, make the recycling easy to find.”

Finally, don’t be afraid to get some help. Party planning and production is a huge undertaking. Your friends would probably love to help if you’d let them. “I always have one or two friends that know my kitchen and they show up with Prosecco and aprons to finish preparing what I could not,” says Miller. “It’s a great social activity that allows you to make sure all the details are finished [while you] get dressed and be prepared for guests to arrive.”

Though my favourite must-have has to come from Kessel, who states that she couldn’t live without red wine — “It makes everything look better” — duct tape and zap straps — “they can make the impossible possible.”

Regardless of theme, remember that it’s the holidays and this is a party. The ultimate goal is fun — both for yourself and your guests! × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 25

The Last Drop

by Rosemary Mantini

AS FAR AS I’M CONCERNED, AND I THINK I’M NOT ALONE HERE, WINE MAKES A PRIMO GIFT, ESPECIALLY WHEN I’M THE LUCKY RECIPIENT. There’s really no such thing as receiving too much of it, is

there? Having a variety on hand just adds flavour to a great party. Don’t hold back on opening more for fear of ending up with leftover wine. I’m always happy when I find partially filled bottles strewn about the place. It means I’ll be enjoying that wine again in lots of different ways.

Chef Selwyn Richards, executive chef at The Art of Catering, tells me, “After a party, I’m often surprised when guests have left a half bottle — although in the interest of safety, I do encourage guests to stop at their limit.

Not wanting to be wasteful, I am often reluctant to pour a good bottle of wine down the sink. So over the years, I’ve come up with some great ways to use wine left over after a party.” At the very least, Richards suggests re-sealing the bottle with a vacuum wine pump and storing it in the fridge for up to a week. Better yet, pour the remaining wine into an ice cube tray and freeze it to use when cooking.

He explains, “There are a variety of ways to cook with wine, but you will typically want to follow a few basic rules.” ×× Dry (non-sweet) wines are best for savoury dishes. ×× Sweet or fortified wines work well with sauces and desserts. ×× Add some dry red wine to a tomato-based pasta sauce. ×× Pair wine with sugar and spices to poach pears. ×× White wine works well with seafood, particularly in a fish or seafood soup. ×× Use white wine with vegetarian dishes, especially with spinach and mushroom.

26 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

Oxtail in red wine sauce is Richards’ favourite way to make delicious use of that extra wine. “The balance of the braised, seasoned oxtail in a reduction of leftover red wine,” he says, “blends intricate flavours with the unique texture of the oxtail, resulting in a dish that no one will believe.”

OXTAIL IN RED WINE SAUCE SERVES 4 TO 6

2 2 1 2 1 1 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 2

lb sliced oxtail tbsp vegetable oil tbsp salt tbsp all purpose seasoning tbsp black pepper tbsp paprika tbsp soya sauce medium onions, diced clove garlic, chopped l water or beef stock sprig thyme, chopped cans cooked lima beans cups baby carrots cups red wine

1. Heat oven to 375°F. 2. Season oxtail with soya sauce, sea-

soning, paprika, garlic, salt and pepper.

Marinate meat in refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

3. Place meat in a deep roasting pan, and bake in the oven for 1/2 hour, turning a few times.

4. Add wine and cook for 15 minutes.

Add water or stock, thyme, onions and cook for another 1 1/2 hour. Add carrots and beans; adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

5. Cover with foil or roasting pan lid and simmer for another hour or until meat is falling-off-the-bone tender. Serve hot with rice and peas or mashed potatoes.

JASON RAGER, BARTENDER AT BOURBON AND BRANCH IN SAN FRANCISCO, has lots of experience

dealing with those open bottles. “When I was bar manager at AQ ... it was my job to make sure the wine program wasn’t losing money due to product going stale. What I’ve learned, and what will give people a large incentive in following my lead, is a simple fact. Your wine is better than most of what is found as the base in large-scale commercial fortifieds. That wine you popped open, waited forty minutes to soften the tannins of — that’s good juice, and will make a killer vermouth.

“Let’s start with fortification. Wine, when opened, lasts about 24 hours. Once that time has passed, it becomes oxidized. … In order to halt this process, we must add a cup of brandy to each litre left over from your party. Next up, the spice regimen. What makes vermouth a vermouth is wormwood, but you shouldn’t sweat that. I like the catch-all of ‘fortified wine,’ because it doesn’t have many rules. We can make a delicious Manhattan with fortified wine that doesn’t contain any wormwood.”

FORTIFIED WINE

1 l wine (a Loire red is the best) 1 cup brandy (I like Maison Surrenne VS)

2 cinnamon sticks, ground up

7 cardamom pods 25 coriander seeds Peel of 3 oranges Peel of 2 lemons

16 cloves

4 bar spoons ground nutmeg Combine all ingredients in an airtight container. Let this mixture steep for about 4 weeks. Strain it off and make a killer Negroni.

• custom design & build • Premier Cru kit racks • wine coolers & accessories • established 1995

your wine deserves the very best home 416.285.6604 RosehillWineCellars.com DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 27

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 2. Prepare all vegetables and place in

De-Glaze It

One of the quickest and easiest ways to use up leftover wine is to deglaze a pan with it. All those brown bits littering the bottom of the sauté pan are storing a whole lot of flavour.

Adding wine allows the caramelized flavour to be extracted from those bits. A stainless steel pan works best for this process because meat will inevitably stick to the bottom while it’s being sautéed. ×× Start by removing the meat from the pan to a plate; keep warm. ×× Pour in just enough wine to cover the bottom of the pan. ×× Increase heat to high. ×× Stir to scrape up all the brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan while the wine is boiling. ×× Let the mixture continue to boil down for a minute or two until thickened. ×× Remove from heat, strain and pour over the finished dish.

CHEF ROBIN HOWE runs Robin Howe

Catering in St Catharines and creates flavourful contemporary menus featuring seasonal ingredients. This slow cooked short ribs recipe is one he has recently perfected for Reif Estate Winery.

SLOW COOKED BEEF SHORT RIBS IN RED WINE

2 bottles (750 ml) Cabernet/ Merlot blend

3 large onions, roughly chopped 3-4 stalks celery, roughly chopped

4 large carrots, peeled, trimmed and chopped in 2-inch chunks

3 heads garlic, cut in half

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 star anise

1 cinnamon stick

2 tbsp canola oil

6 beef short ribs (about 5 lbs)

1 cup flour

2 tbsp cocoa powder

1 cup brown sugar Handful peppercorns A generous pinch coarse salt Black pepper, freshly ground

28 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

large bowl. Add herbs and spices, set aside.

3. Cut ribs between the bones and trim all excess outer fat.

4. Season ribs well with coarse salt.

Dredge in flour till well coated.

5. In a large heavy-bottomed pot, pour in oil to coat bottom of pan. On high heat, sear the ribs so they are browned well on all sides (about 3 min per side). Remove meat from pot and set aside.

6. Add all of the vegetables, herbs and spices to the pot and stir to caramelize and pick up all the brown bits.

7. Add meat back into pot. Pour wine over. Ensure all is covered and if not, top up with water.

8. Sprinkle on cocoa powder and brown sugar, bring to a boil, cover with a lid or foil, and place in oven until meat is fork tender. (About 2 1/2 to 3 hours) 9. Remove ribs to a platter and strain out the solids to use for something else.

10. Boil the cooking liquid in a wide shallow pan till it is reduced by half.

Turn off and add a tbsp of unsalted butter and swirl in.

JENNER CORMIER, Canadian Am-

bassador for Diageo World Class, is an expert in creating delicious cocktails using any ingredient he can lay his hands on. This recipe is one of his favourites to make with red wine.

NEW YORK SOUR

In a mixing tin combine:

3/4 oz fresh lemon juice 3/4 oz simple syrup 1 3/4 oz rye or bourbon whisky 1. Fill shaker with ice and shake hard for 8 to 10 seconds.

2. Strain into an old fashioned glass filled with ice.

3. Garnish with an orange wheel slid down the side of the glass.

4. Now float roughly 3/4 oz red wine (something with some fruit and spice notes) on the surface of the drink.

5. You can also add egg white for extra texture, sub orange juice instead of lemon (but dial back on the simple syrup). Try it with Canadian whisky as well! ×

BACK ROADS

by Tim Pawsey

Way back, when I first arrived on the west coast, I developed a passion for back roads. No, not just winding country lanes to escape the monotony of Highway One, but the marginal, nearly inaccessible kind — usually marked on the map by a dotted line. Over that summer, I travelled a ton of them, through the impossibly beautiful Lardeau in the Purcells to a near goat trail that somehow connected Hedley to Apex Mountain. I explored the “other way back” from the interior — the then-unpaved Duffy Lake Road (complete with line-your-wheels-up-and-pray, two timber logging truck “bridges”) that linked Lillooet to Pemberton and the lower mainland.

BC is like that, a siren’s call for those who fantasize about life on the edge — or who dream about growing grapes somewhere other than on the well-trodden benches of the Okanagan. Where a couple of acres isn’t the price of a Vancouver condo. And where climatic conditions once referred to as “borderline,” yielding marginal ripening opportunities, can apparently be quite obliging.

Over the last few years, several of those borderline regions have become a reality. While it will be a long time, if ever, before any produce on the scale of the Okanagan, their success suggests the future holds a much more broadly based and varied BC wine industry.

LILLOOET

When Rolf de Bruin and Heleen Pannekoek planted their Lillooet vineyard on the north shore of the Fraser River, some wondered if it was really feasible. After all, while Lillooet is renowned as a Canadian summer hotspot, it also experiences an authentic slice of Canadian winter.

However, the Dutch couple (who had initially considered the Okanagan but found land prices unrealistic) had done their homework, and had been introduced to BC wine industry stalwarts Richard Cleave and John Vielvoye.

The experienced viticulturists suggested that Lillooet would be worth considering, especially since it was home to a series of vinifera trials in various sites along the Fraser Canyon. The couple, who were taken with the region and its potential, engaged pioneering Sumac Ridge founder Harry McWatters as their consultant and forged ahead with a 20 acre vineyard of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cab Franc and Merlot. Fort Berens — named after a planned but never built Hudsons Bay trading post at the site — began to take shape.

McWatters was one of the first in the Okanagan to explore pushing the boundaries of grape growing; he bought some of his initial Sumac Ridge Chardonnay from a (now vanished) grower in the Kamloops area. He’s quietly bullish on the prospects for new growing sites, especially further west, on benches along the Fraser Canyon, and cites affordability as a key factor in the area’s potential.

Even though Lillooet’s daytime highs sometimes exceed 40˚C, de Bruin says cooling breezes off Seton Lake keep the mercury at 35˚C tops and yields significantly cooler nights to produce good acidity. Combine those conditions with a long growing season, low rainfall (with little or no precipitation between July and October) and you can see how it’s easy to draw comparisons with the Okanagan.

While it started out using a portion of Black Sage grapes, this year saw the majority of Fort Berens estate fruit come on stream, with some impressive results. This summer, Fort Berens 2012 Riesling won a coveted Lieutenant Governor’s Award, bestowed on only 12 wines out of a competition that now sees over 400 entries from around BC. In July 2014, the just completed new tasting room also opened in time to welcome Her Honour Judith Guichon (who herself owns a ranch in not too far away Merritt) to present the award.

KAMLOOPS

Drive a couple of hours east from Lillooet and you’ll arrive in Kamloops, where, in a similar time frame, Harper’s Trail has emerged as yet another pioneer in a hitherto untested wine region. It was established by Vicki and Ed Collett, who purchased a portion of the historic Thaddeus Harper Ranch, on a bluff overlooking the Thompson River, just east of town. Initially planting 7.5 ha in 2007, they plan to eventually have some 27 ha under vine. The couple also reshaped the land to make best use of the south facing benches and invested heavily in deer fencing and irrigation.

Like Fort Berens, the Colletts connected with some serious experience working with the Okanagan Crush Pad and winemaker Michael Bartier, who shared in their enthusiasm as to what could be achieved. Initial riskier winter-kill prone plantings of Syrah and Merlot were pulled in favour of Pinot Noir and Gamay, as well as Cabernet Franc — regarded as being the most hardy of red vinifera and also an early ripener.

Part of Harper’s Trail’s appeal lies in a broad vein of lime rock that runs through the site, which proved to be the backbone of the initial 2011 mineral-streaked Riesling.

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 29

FORT BERENS PINOT GRIS 2013 ($19) 100% estate grown: lifted orchard fruit notes up front followed by a slightly honeyed, apple and pear toned palate underpinned by good acidity and a crisp, slightly zesty close.

FORT BERENS 2013 RIESLING ($19) 100% estate grown shows vibrant apple and tropical notes on the nose followed by apple and stone fruit with some tropical hints on the palate, above a definite mineral streak. Winner 2014 BC Lieutenant Governor Awards for Excellence in Wine.

HARPER’S TRAIL CABERNET FRANC 2012 ($24) Bright red fruit on top followed by a medium-bodied, palate of blackberry and raspberry notes wrapped in easy tannins and juicy acidity, with slightly mineral undertones and good length to finish. Think winter dishes like cassoulet or duck breast. Inaugural release from estate grown fruit.

HARPER’S TRAIL FIELD BLEND 2013 ($15) Blend usually of Chardonnay, Gewürz, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc yields up-front zesty stone fruit and gentle herbal notes followed by a crisp and lingering citrus-toned palate.

BAILLIE GROHMAN RECOLTE 2013 BLANC ($17) Charming gently off-dry blend of 60% Pinot Gris, with 25% Schoenbuger and 15% Kerner. Honey, pear and orchard fruits on the nose, before a luscious, full and fresh palate ruled by tropical and floral notes with a lengthy close. Unoaked. Think grilled chicken, Waldorf salad or lightly spiced Asian dishes.

BAILLIE GROHMAN GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2013 ($19) Rose petal, ginger and floral aromas precede a generous, well-textured palate of lychee, tropical tones and citrus zest, with a lengthy end.

BAILLIE GROHMAN BLANC DE NOIRS ROSÉ 2013 ($19) Brilliant rose hues in the glass. Aromas of cranberry and melon, followed by a mouth-filling, fruit-driven intense cherry and raspberry toned palate.

SEA STAR SIEGERREBE 2013 ($17.90) Citrus and spice notes up front followed by well-balanced, not-overblown, tropical, grapefruit and peach notes on a juicy, well-structured and lengthy palate.

SEA STAR ORTEGA 2013 ($18.90) Lifted aromas of floral and orchard fruits with a lush peach, apricot and melon toned palate wrapped in juicy acidity.

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More recently came the inaugural Cab Franc (2012), which received strong reviews, more than suggesting the winery is very much on the right track.

If you had asked people a decade ago what the chances were that Kamloops would produce such a wine — and a red wine at that — they would’ve been a tad sceptical. And that’s being polite.

However, the issue of winter-kill does continue to be a concern. So much so that others are pursuing a different path. Some 30 km east of Kamloops, Monte Creek Ranch is a 3,600 acre working ranch that includes two estate vineyards. Owned by the Sidhu family, who have broad experience in grape and blueberry growing, plantings include Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Cabernet and Merlot, as well as Frontenac, Marechal Foch and more. The Minnesota hybrids have been known to withstand temperatures of minus 40˚C. McWatters says it just makes sense to grow what works — what can properly ripen and withstand the occasional extreme cold — and that the wines he’s tasted don’t seem to show the foxiness with which they’re often associated “back east.” Famously known for his disdain of Marechal Foch (he’s often said it’s best enjoyed on the barbecue — as fuel!), he’s even prepared to admit that this one tastes OK! Currently, Monte Creek makes a red and a white blend called Hands Up, in a nod to legendary Bill Miner, who robbed his last train at Monte Creek in 1904.

The focus to date has been on establishing the vineyards, with wines made elsewhere, but the winery expects to have its tasting room completed in time for 2015.

CRESTON VALLEY

A handful of small wineries have emerged in the Creston Valley, about 230 km east of the Okanagan as the crow flies, in the heart of the Kootenays. The most successful and quality driven to date is Creston’s Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery. Several reasons have contributed to its success, but a major factor was that owners Bob Johnson and Petra Flaa connected with highly regarded Kiwi winemaker Dan Barker.

When Barker isn’t at Baillie-Grohman, he’s busy making wine at his own award-winning Moana Park Winery, in Hawke’s Bay — which in its own right competes high on the scenery scale with the Creston Valley.

Moana enjoys international renown and consistently wins in benchmark competitions such as Air New Zealand Wine Awards and London’s Decanter World Wine Awards, where its 2010 Viognier struck gold.

Barker says he finds it “truly exciting” that people from the world over are drawn to the Okanagan — and, yes, elsewhere — to get involved in BC’s wine industry.

The winemaker says Creston reminds him somewhat of Central Otago. And I’m guessing he might just agree that the Similkameen Valley (from where he sources single vineyard Merlot and Cab) could be a ringer for Otago’s neighbouring Gibbston Valley.

Like Similkameen, Otago is known for its early gold rush days — but is also famous for that other great Kiwi gift to the world (after rugby supremacy) of bungee jumping.

Even though Baillie-Grohman grows Pinot Noir very well, it’s worth noting Barker looks elsewhere for Bordeaux varieties too challenging to ripen in the more condensed Kootenay growing season.

Flaa says they connected with Barker through neighbouring COMOX VALLEY Skimmerhorn’s winemaker, Kiwi Mark Rattray. He suggested While most of Vancouver Island’s vineyards are found in or advertising on a New Zealand wine website, as they weren’t mak- around the warmer Cowichan Valley, newcomers have been ing much progress hiring anyone with experience locally. pushing the boundaries elsewhere on the island. Overlooking Barker was aware of the Canadian wine scene as he had the breezy shores of Comox Spit, former tugboat captain Bill worked at Niagara’s respected Hidden Bench Winery.

Montgomery and his wife, Michal, established 40 Knots WinPetra Flaa says Barker wasn’t in the least bit deterred about ery and planted 18 acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gamay coming to Creston rather than the Okanagan: Noir and Pinot Noir, in 2007, as well as Siegerrebe, which re“New Zealanders love that type of stuff. Plus he came in 2009, placed ill-suited Merlot. which was an awesome year. It was our first harvest and the Montgomery, who recently added a sparkling wine to the grapes were really good.” successful line-up, recently decided to retire. In July, the win“Had 2010 been his first year he might never have come back,” she laughs.

However, she says it’s not really that risky and that Dan believes the climate Harper’s Trail gives the wines so much flavour.

“He’s really happy with the grapes — and, besides, we only grow what we can grow.”

GULF ISLANDS

The Gulf Islands are hardly a new region for grape growing. The initial vinifera plantings for Saturna Vineyards took place in 1995 and many a modern day settler has planted vines over the years.

There are about 100 islands in all between Vancouver Island and the mainland, stretching from the US border north to Campbell River. They vary considerably in climate and growing season, although most benefit from the considerable rain shadow of the Vancouver Island Ranges.

Vineyards and small wineries have taken root on Saturna; Salt Spring, Mayne, Pender, Lasqueti, Thetis, Hornby and Quadra islands, all with varying degrees of success. Saturna Island Winery, which has struggled since its inception, recently closed and is on the market.

Another winery that struggled, Pender Island’s Morning Bay just across the water from Saturna, also closed some years ago.

However, in 2012 it was purchased and resurrected as Sea Star Estate Winery and Vineyards, by a strong team led by owner David Goudge and winemaker Ian Baker.

The new regime displays strong intentions of keeping the focus on producing what makes sense for the region. Some wines are estate grown, while others are made with fruit from nearby Clam Bay Farm. The winery, whose vineyard reaches to the ocean’s shore, enjoys a spectacular setting.

Initial releases of Siegerrebe and Ortega 2013 performed well in significant competitions. Morning Bay founder Keith Watt says he’s pleased to see his “child grow into an adult.” He planted Siegerrebe having tasted the variety from Puget Sound wineries, just south of the line, because he believed it showed “great promise as an island aromatic” and, likewise, the Ortega.

ery was sold to new owners Brenda Hetman-Craig and Layne Craig. The couple plans to augment their production with a new label, Stall Speed, produced with Okanagan grown fruit; and will work with Okanagan Crush Pad winemaker Matt Dumayne to make Meritage and Icewine.

One of the most significant plantings on Vancouver Island, the winery is also not far from (more inland) Beaufort Winery, recently purchased by celebrated movie director James Cameron.

With the continuing influx of capital and ever-increasing availability of proven viticultural expertise, there’s no question that BC’s outlying regions will continue to lure those desiring to push the traditional boundaries of viticulture. Chances are much greater today that they’ll succeed. × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 31

VERNACULAR

by Michael Pinkus

Imagine for a moment there was no ALBAROSSA …

A grape created in Veneto, Italy in 1938 by crossing Nebbiolo Cabernet Sauvignon, no Merlot, no with Barbera, though there is some controversy about the NebbiChardonnay … hard to do, isn’t it? olo part. What was created was a delightful red grape full of the These grapes, and many others, have juiciness of Barbera and the acidity of Nebbiolo. become part of our vernacular, part of BANFI REGALI LA LUS ALBAROSSA 2009, ITALY our lifestyle and part of the way we ($24.95) order and drink wine.

The Banfi version is lovely with black cherry, spice and dark cocoa; smooth and supple on the finish.

There was a time, before those nasty Americans started putting the grape varieties on the label, that people ordered wine by region. You knew instinctively (or were taught) that a wine from Pomerol was Merlot dominant, while those from the Graves were Cabernet Sauvignon dominant. Anything from Burgundy was either Pinot Noir or Chardonnay — depending on colour. Beaujolais was Gamay. Chianti was Sangiovese, Barolo equalled Nebbiolo and Valpolicella was a blended red.

But today we are spoiled. We don’t have to use our brains when searching for the wines we like; even those French, with all their rules and conformity to tradition, are putting grape varieties on the bottle — if not the front then almost certainly on the back label. Yup, buying wine became easy and rather boring; just look for your favourite variety and go.

But something is afoot at the supermarket (or wherever you’re buying your wine these days). As the North American palate develops and gets more sophisticated, we’re looking for more interesting grape varieties — it’s already starting to happen. People are saying “we want something more, something exciting, not the same old same old;” winemakers are listening and importers are starting to import with an eye on the unique or unknown.

Nowadays, you can find Vranac, Albarossa, Gruner Veltliner, Pinotage, Arneis, Alvarinho, Gouveio, Malvasia, Trincadeira, Aragonez and plenty of other foreign-sounding (because they are) grape varieties. Wine shopping is now fun again because there is much more to discover on the shelves of your local retailer. As demand for these grapes and diversity grows, so too does the selection. But there is also a cost for this type of diversity of choice. Not all the wines are something you want to discover. And just because somebody brought them in doesn’t always mean it’s a good choice for you.

On the following pages I’ll give some interesting facts about some “oddball” grape varieties (and recommend a wine made from it) — you may or may not have heard of these grapes, but they are out there and they’re coming to a retailer near you.

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PINOTAGE …

Known as South Africa’s “signature variety” or in some cases “that coffee wine.” The grape was created in 1925 by crossing Pinot Noir and Cinsault, which at the time was also called Hermitage, hence the name Pinotage.

MAN FAMILY WINES BOSSTOK PINOTAGE 2012, SOUTH AFRICA ($13.95) Mid-weight and juicy with plenty of those coffee nuances laced with a lovely seam of cocoa; this one is really well made and quite a delight.

NERO DI TROIA (AKA UVA DI TROIA) …

A red grape found in the Puglia region of Italy, primarily around Andria and Barletta, it can be used on its own or in a blend, but rarely outside of Italy.

CANTINE FERRI OBLIVIO NERO DI TROIA 2008, ITALY ($19.95) Shows plenty of red fruit, like cherry and raspberry, with moderate tannins, perfect for sipping.

VRANAC …

The most important grape variety in Montenegro, where it is indigenous. Can also be found in Macedonia, where it too reigns supreme amongst the red grape varieties. Serbia also has a fair number of plantings.

STOBI VRANAC 2010, REPUBLIC OF MACEDONIA ($14) Lots of deep dark fruit, which matches the colour of this wine; the palate proves to be smooth and inviting, a wine for drinknow enjoyment.

GRUNER VELTLINER …

The most widely planted white wine grape in Austria, it is also found in Slovakia and the Czech Republic; it is part of the Traminer family, therefore one of the noble vitis vinifera varieties.

LAURENZ V FRIENDLY GRUNER VELTLINER 2012, AUSTRIA ($19.95)

ALVARINHO/ALBARINO …

A white grape found in both northwest Spain and northwest Portugal. Unconfirmed reports have the grape brought to the regions by monks in the 12th century. It can now also be found in some regions of California willing to experiment with this white heat-seeker of a grape.

The nose and palate really do describe this wine: friendly, to the point that it almost shakes “hands” with your tongue. Lovely acidity makes it refreshing along with pea pod and lime zest aromas.

DEU LA DEU ALVARINHO VINHO VERDE 2013, PORTUGAL ($15.95)

FALANGHINA …

LEIRA ALBARINO 2013, SPAIN ($17.95)

Another white grape found to be part of the noble vitis vinifera varieties, it is grown in Italy around coastal Campania just north of Naples; the name is reported to come from the Latin word falangae, meaning stakes, which are used to support the vines.

LA GUARDIENSE JANARE SENETE FALANGHINA 2012, ITALY ($14.95)

This one’s an easy sipper that pairs well with a summer salad: lots of apple backed by a smattering of wild flowers.

Differs slightly from the Portuguese model; still shows the floral aspect of the grape but this Spanish version complexes it up a bit with grapefruit, hay and white peach.

Nicola Ferri

Here’s a white wine that has loads of character including honeysuckle and dried rose petals on the nose, while the palate shows off melon rind, a lingering floral note and good acidity.

Laurenz Maria Moser V

MALVASIA …

This is one well-travelled white grape noted in both Italian and Portuguese winemaking, and is used for both dry and sweet wines, most notably Malmsey Madeira. It seems that both the Greeks and Italians hold claim to the grape’s origin, but the Greeks hold the stronger edge.

BURMESTER WHITE 2013, PORTUGAL ($15.95)

ARNEIS …

Seems the Italians feature prominently because they love to show off their indigenous varieties. Arneis is a white grape whose name means “little rascal,” which it comes by honestly — as it is a tough grape to grow, which is why few places try. Found primarily in the Piedmont region in the hills of Roero northwest of Alba, where it is made into both a DOC and DOCG wine.

This dry Malvasia is actually blended with Gouveio (aka Verdelho) and Rabigato; gentle, easy drinking white with apple blossom and hints of cinnamon.

MALAGOUSIA / MALAGOUZIA …

Almost a cautionary tale of grape varieties: nearly extinct until Domaine Porto Carras (Greece) saw use for it and began to re-cultivate it in the late 20th century. May have some relation to Malvasia.

CASTELLO DI NEIVE MONTEBERTOTTO ARNEIS 2012, ITALY ($18.95)

ALPHA ESTATE AXIA MALAGOUZIA 2012, GREECE ($18)

Quite the mouthful here with melon, peach and grapefruit cocktail; there’s even a subtle, if not welcome, bit of spice.

Lovely aromatics that hint at beeswax, grapefruit and white flowers; palate comes across with similar notes. × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 33

Making it grow

by Evan Saviolidis

WHEN PHYLLOXERA DEVASTATED PIEDMONT IN THE LATE 1800S, BARBERA WAS THE CHOICE FOR MANY NEW PLANTINGS. Both its ease of growth

and its performance at the dinner table made it the drink of choice for the masses — and a favourite for the local farmers.

Today, with Barbera making up close to 50 percent of all plantings in Piedmont, it is still the most planted grape, and continues to be the bread and butter for many producers. By contrast, the region’s more famous varietal, Nebbiolo, accounts for only a fraction of its output.

For me, Barbera is the Gamay of Italy: much maligned and dismissed. Prone to naturally high yields, the renditions that we tend to find on liquor store shelves are thin, high acid, pale-coloured, strawberry fruit-filled versions.

Well, things have now changed for the workhorse varietal. Quality has never been better and with a little exploration, there are many gems to be found. This new generation no longer follows the adage, “drink your Barberas while you wait for your Nebbiolo-based wines to mature.”

The first inkling of change started in the 1970s when famed Bordeaux oenologist Emile Peynaud suggested lower yields and small barrique aging as a means to add complexity, round out the wines and tone down the grape’s elevated levels of acidity.

The other positive influence of barrel aging is the addition of wood tannin to the structure of Barbera, which is inherently low in grape tannin.

Needless to say, these recommendations warped the beliefs of traditionalists, who vinified high yields in massive botti (large old wood), which could hold thousands of litres.

Years later, with the success of the Super Tuscans, which saw new oak applied to another Italian grape, Sangiovese, the cracks soon started to appear in Piedmont. The person first credited with the elevation of Barbera was Giacomo Bologna. In 1985, he released his 1982 Bricco dell’Uccellone, a 100 percent Barbera d’Asti made from a prestigious single vineyard and aged for 18 months in barriques. Journalists and wine lovers were quick to extol its virtues.

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With the acceptance of this modern style, the proliferation started en masse.

Producers started slashing yields, choosing better clones and selecting the warmest sights/vineyards. Within a very short period, the face of Barbera had changed forever.

The only knock against the style was that some producers over-indulged in the use of new wood. Today, there is a happy medium. The producers who use new wood tend to do so in smaller percentiles. Those who prefer old wood still observe the mantra of low yields. Also, it is common knowledge, but seldom spoken, that some modern producers tend to de-acidify the wines to produce a softer texture.

Barbera’s natural acidity makes it pretty much a universal partner, especially with traditional Northern Italian cuisine. The lighter wines pair well with bagna cauda, tomato and cream-based pastas, antipasto and pizza. The heavier wines, especially Nizza, find their affinity with truffle-based dishes, braised meats and mushroom risottos even more so if there is some age to them.

ORIGINS AND APPELLATIONS

There are three main appellations for the varietal. In order of importance, they are Barbera d’Asti, Barbera d’Alba and Barbera del Monferrato.

The majority is grown in and around the hills of Asti and Monferrato, with the latter being the birthplace of the varietal.

13th-century documents from the cathedral of Casale Monferrato detail leasing agreements of vineyard lands planted with “de bonis vitibus barbexinis,” or Barbera, as it was known back then.

The largest, Asti, incorporates 169 villages and is widely regarded as the epicentre. Theoretically, anything labelled as plain Barbera d’Asti is an entry level offering with a minimum of 11.5 percent alcohol. In reality, the quality ranges from average to awesome. A step up, hierarchy wise, is Superiore, a wine that has achieved 12.5 percent alcohol and has aged six months in either small wood or old chestnut.

The pinnacle is Barbera d’Asti Superiore plus the name of a subzone, of which there are three: Nizza, Tinella and Colli

Astiani. All are impressive, but for me, the spotlight is Nizza, which just recently received its own appellation: Nizza DOCG. This area encompasses 18 municipalities located in the heart of the Barbera d’Asti area, which are some of the warmest. By law, all the vineyards are on south facing sandy/marl slopes, providing maximum sun exposure and heat retention (sandy soils retain and reflect heat into the vineyard.) This combination of privileged exposure and naturally low yields creates a wine with a minimum natural alcohol of 13 percent. Aging for basic Nizza is eighteen months, of which six is in some form of wood. Riserva denotes a wine that has slumbered for a minimum of 30 months, including one year in wood, before release.

It is said that a great Nizza can age between 10 to 20 years. I discovered this to be true while visiting the region this past summer — I had the opportunity to taste many vintages. While the older wines did have poise, I felt that there was no complexity gained over a wine that had been aged for five years. Then again, it is all about personal preference.

Barbera del Monferrato is the smallest in terms of production. It also has one of those idiosyncratic Italian classifications for different tiers of quality. Basic Monferrato is classified DOC and supports the standard bearer red, semi-sparkling frizzante and rare off-dry versions. At the end of the spectrum is Superiore, with its DOCG status, which requires a threshold of 13 percent alcohol, 14 months aging, including a half year in barrel.

As for Alba, it is famous primarily for three things: white truffles, the hybridization of chocolate and hazelnut (Nutella) and Nebbiolo.

The area incorporates the Langhe hills, home of the famed Nebbiolo trio of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero. Logically, most producers have chosen to concentrate their plantings on Nebbiolo, especially in lieu of the terroir and the price that it fetches.

That said, some of my most memorable Barbera experiences started here.

Powerful and concentrated, these Barbera wines exude cherries, blueberry and strawberry; the masculine version, closer in style to Nebbiolo than the somewhat feminine style of Barbera d’Asti. Thus, it comes as no surprise that a few noted Barolo and Barbaresco producers have converted some of their prime Nebbiolo vineyards over to Barbera, e.g. Vietti.

UNESCO

As I was putting my final touches to this story, I received a press release stating that, after 11 years of petitioning, the region of Nizza has received UNESCO protected status.

According to the press release, the area is, “an exceptional living testimony to the historical tradition of grape growing and winemaking processes, a social context, and the rural economy based on the culture of wine … [A]n outstanding example of man’s interaction with his natural environment.”

Do you need more proof that it is time to get your Barbera on?! × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 35

There is a passage in one of my favourite wine novels, The Billionaire’s Vinegar, which goes like this: “An ullaged bottle.

Alas, but unsurprisingly ‘over the top,’ oxidized: colour dark brown; nose like pure balsamic vinegar; despite the rich components — undrinkable.” The words quoted are from British wine critic Michael Broadbent after tasting a bottle of Château Lafite from Bordeaux that was over 200 years old. words and photos by Rick VanSickle

A REAL DISC Author Benjamin Wallace’s account of the mystery behind the world’s most expensive bottle of wine, a 1787 Château Lafite — allegedly once owned by Thomas Jefferson and sold at a Christie’s wine auction in 1985 for $156,000 — is a brilliant and mesmerizing tale of the world’s richest men trying to outdo each other with a seemingly infinite amount of extremely old wines from what turned out to be dubious provenance.

It’s a captivating read that delves deep into the inner circle of hedonistic wine tastings where extravagant old bottles were lapped up like soda pop, and the gratification achieved from nosing and sipping 200-year-old Bordeaux costing in the tens of thousands of dollars for a single bottle, no matter how putrid the wines were, was often gushed over simply because it didn’t taste like vinegar.

It is wine collecting gone wild. The dark side of what can be a rewarding and pleasurable experience for the more, shall we say, modest collectors among us. Older wine, slowly matured in a well-designed cellar, is the thing that really excites me. I am in awe every time I open an older vintage that has not only stood the test of time, but has benefited from a tour of duty in the cellar. I am not impressed by vinegar; I am looking for transformative wines that are better in their waning years than they were as pups.

The wines that make the earth move for me tend to be those that age gracefully for five, 10 and 20 years or more. These wines bring pleasure in the way they have grown up, integrated and evolved to reveal those interesting tertiary flavours and nuances you just don’t get in a young wine.

It is no wonder Bordeaux is at the top of every collector’s wish list. I learned the hard way that drinking Bordeaux on release was a fool’s game as they are just too tannic, too firm and out of whack. But age those wines for a few years and magic happens.

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It’s the same with Riesling — the ones made with natural high acidity and some residual sugar. Try a 30-year-old German Riesling from a good producer and you will never drink a young Riesling again. That, to a lesser degree, is true with Niagara Rieslings; I never drink them without at least some bottle age.

Ditto for Burgundy, Aussie Shiraz and Sémillon, Italian reds (most of them), Spanish reds, Napa Valley reds and too many others to list here.

And it certainly holds true for Niagara red blends made with the traditional Bordeaux varieties.

But how long is long enough for Canadian wines? We really don’t know. There just aren’t enough of them kicking around.

There is no tradition of holding back wines for release at a later date and those who did collect those wines “back in the day” are few and far between. Then there’s this: We have a short history of wine in Canada.

WE ARE ON THE PATIO ON A GORGEOUS SUMMER DAY, A CORNER TABLE LOOKING OUT INTO THE VINEYARD AT NIAGARA’S TRIUS WINERY. Winemaker Craig McDonald

orders for the two of us: hearts of romaine with Atlantic lobster and corn and peach salad, followed by potted salmon rillette and freshwater Arctic char filet.

Trius Chef Frank Dodd’s creations are stunning and pair well with the new white wine releases from the winery, but we are drawn together on this day to share some old bottles we had kicking around.

Our sommelier gingerly opens a Trius Dry Riesling 1995, a Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1988 from Germany, a Late Harvest Vidal 1991 from Niagara’s Konzelmann and a Quails’ Gate Late Harvest Botrytis Affected Optima 1991 from the Okanagan Valley.

COVERY

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Our centrepiece was the nicely aged Auslese from legendary Mosel producer Prum, and it lived up to its reputation with enthralling complexity, laser-beam acidity and layers of flavour tucked neatly into sip after sip. But it was, surprisingly, the two sweet Canadian wines that stole this show.

Konzelmann’s Late Harvest Vidal, paired up with a baked caramel peach and corn bread dessert, shocked us. Such jaw-dropping flavours of apricot preserve, honey, penetrating layers of orchard fruits and a (still!) lively finish.

The quirky Quails’ Gate Late Harvest Botrytis Affected Optima 1991 from the Okanagan Valley was like silk on the palate, dripping with wild honeycomb, puréed tropical fruits, marmalade and caramel notes that were just emerging.

We drank and ate heartily for four and half hours on that patio, mesmerized by the wines and how the passage of time can turn silver into gold.

THE MOON SHINING OFF LAKE MUSKOKA ON A CALM SUMMER’S NIGHT IS A COMFORTING SIGHT FROM A POINT JUTTING INTO SUNSET BAY. Our bellies are full from

a feast of barbecued prime rib, seasonal vegetables and a 1993 Château La Lagune from the Haut-Médoc in Bordeaux.

Retiring to a roaring fire is what you do in cottage country; one of the great pleasures of Canada’s outdoors. It is here that stories are told and retold while the kids roast s’mores on open flames.

My friend Bob is big on Italian red wines, a committed fan of all things Brunello di Montalcino, so I used the moment to open up a special treat for him (that had nothing to do with Brunello).

I had carted a Gaja Barbaresco 1986 to Muskoka for a moment just like this. Once settled on the rocks around the fire, I poured a generous glass for Bob. And we drank.

That older-vintage allure was clearly at work here as I lost myself in the glass of truffles, forest floor, crushed berries and rich, savoury spices. It was profound, one of the most complex and interesting wines I have had in my life. The aromas and flavours were alarming.

We sipped this incredible elixir on the shore of that serene lake under a starry, starry sky, and as I looked over at Bob in the glow of the fire, I knew exactly what he was thinking. It was the greatest bottle of wine he had ever tried.

Old wine is like that.

THE BEST EXAMPLES OF WELL-AGED ONTARIO WINES HAVE COME FROM, UNDERSTANDABLY, THE OLDEST AND MOST-ESTABLISHED VINEYARDS. Vineland Estates

is famous for its Riesling especially from the 42-acre St. Urban Vineyard. The vineyard showcases the Weis 21 Riesling clone, brought to Canada from Mosel, German by the winery’s founder, Hermann Weis. The first plantings went in the soil in 1979.

So what a treat it was to come across a bottle of the 1989 Vineland Estate Late Harvest St Urban Vineyard Riesling made by Allan Schmidt, winemaker at the time and now president of the winery.

The aromas were immediate and profound, running the gamut from tropical-apricot purée and sweet marmalade to petrol and caramel. At the forefront of this Riesling was its freshness, still lively after all these years. It was lush, unctuous and concen38 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

trated on the palate with flavours of chunky tropical compote and candied fruits with a vibrancy that was hard to believe.

Then the tertiary notes kicked in, the kind of flavours that only come with age: toffee, creamy apricot, honeycomb and that sliver of sweet petrol. What an extraordinary experience, such integration and length through the finish. I can still taste it.

I asked Schmidt what he remembered about winemaking in the early days of the industry and the work that went to producing such a long-lived wine.

“I wish I could tell you it was because of great planning and winemaking,” he said. “We were flying by the seat of our pants, with minimalist equipment and using garden hoses on tanks to cool fermentations. One of the only reasons we made a late harvest Riesling in 1989 is because we could not get all the fruit processed in time for the regular wines and had no choice but to leave the fruit hanging. So, as you know, the best Rieslings make themselves anyways, and this was no exception.”

IT JUST DOESN’T GET ANY MORE HISTORIC THAN THE MARYNISSEN LOT 31 CABERNET SAUVIGNON. Located

at the base of the Niagara Escarpment in the heart of Niagara-on-the-Lake, the Lot 31 vineyard was planted by viticulture pioneer John Marynissen in 1978.

Marynissen had purchased the property in 1953 and was the first grape grower in the region to plant vinifera varieties, when most people said it could not be done. He set out to prove them wrong.

Marynissen, who passed away in 2009, always pushed the limits of what was perceived to be possible with grape growing and in 1978 he planted Cabernet Sauvignon in the Lot 31 Vineyard, which are the oldest commercial Cabernet vines in Canada.

For former Marynissen winemaker Jeff Hundertmark, all it took was one sip of the legendary 1991 Marynissen Lot 31 Cabernet Sauvignon to steer him into the world of winemaking. “It was an epiphany for me,” he told me a number of years ago when he was still the winemaker at Marynissen, before the family sold the winery to a group of Chinese investors.

From that first taste, Hundertmark started following the wines made by Marynissen while also working his way through various wine-related jobs and ventures in Ottawa.

To this day, Hundertmark says that the 1991 Lot 31 Cab “was the wine that put me where I am today” (he’s now the winemaker for Mike Weir Wine and Stoney Ridge). “It was the most inspiring wine I had tasted way back at its release in the early ‘90s, and the first collectible Canadian wine I had in my cellar at the time,” he said.

The 1991 Marynissen Lot 31 Cabernet Sauvignon bottle I tasted was in pristine condition.

This is an extraordinary example of well-aged Cabernet from Niagara. The nose was attractive with notes of blackberry, cherry, cigar box cedar, leather cocoa and sweet oak spices that were perfectly integrated and not one hint of the mustiness that age can bring.

It simply blew me away when I took the first sip. It was soft and mellow but showed bright black cherry fruit, an array of interesting spice notes with a touch of liquorice and earth. The tannins were round and smooth and everything had totally integrated into a seamless and thrilling wine. ×

BARREL SAMPLE

by Tod Stewart

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 39

They call it “the Crud.” Or, more specifically, “the Kentu noying little malady that strikes both residents of, and v State with equal spite. The region’s humid climate and p gens combine at various times in the year to lay waste ry tract. It’s not lethal, but it can feel that way.

“My case lasted five days when I was in Kentucky, and followed me home for about three more,” Matt Jones recalls. “Locals say it gets better the moment you leave the region, whether you head north, south, east or west … just as long as you are not in that Kentucky microclimate with the humidity. It is seasonal, and my case was in spring. The coughing and raspy voice made me sound like a 90-year-old grandma … which was pretty funny, albeit very uncomfortable!”

Jones, Whisky Ambassador for Beam Suntory Canada, told me about the Crud — and other uniquely Kentuckian peculiarities — as we motored from the town of Lebanon northwest towards the hamlet of Clermont on the outskirts of Louisville, the state’s largest city.

Now, before we delve any further into this tale, it’s important that if you know nothing else about Kentucky, you get how to pronounce Louisville properly. Say “Loo-iss-vil” and you’re likely to engender a strange look or two (if not a clip upside the head) from the locals. “Lewa-vul,” “Luh-vul,” and “Loohavul” (or any slightly slurred variant) should keep you in good stead.

Anyway, yes, the state can lay claim to a number of originals: the Derby, the music, the Slugger, the fried chicken. But the reason we were headed to Clermont was to visit the Jim Beam American Stillhouse, home to the Jim Beam and Knob Creek families of bourbon whiskies. While I was looking forward to a welcoming “Kentucky Hug” (that chest-warming embrace you get having knocked back a straight shot of the state’s best at 100 proof ), I also wanted to learn more about wood (of the barrel variety, in case there’s any doubt). See, you can craft some pretty nice wines and white spirits sans timber, but when it comes to the most complex spirits, a slumber in the lumber is, arguably, the most important part of the production process. The barrel maturation regime for bourbon is one of the strictest around. In Clermont, I’d see whiskey-filled casks racked stories high. Back in Lebanon, I saw them being built.

Founded by T.W. Boswell in 1912, the Independent Stave Company (ISC) remains a family-owned company with cooperages located around the world, including France, Chile, South Africa and Australia. In its Kentucky Cooperage, ISC fashions Ozark-harvested white oak staves into casks to be shipped, among other places, to Kentucky’s bourbon distilleries, including Jim Beam.

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During a tour of the plant, I saw air-dried staves lashed together, steamed to make them pliable, bent into shape and secured with metal rings. “It is interesting to note the barrels are simply held together by the metal hoops,” ISC President Brad Boswell points out. “We do not glue or nail any of the pieces together.” When you consider they are completely watertight, barrels are something of an engineering marvel.

Boswell explains that the grain of the oak has an impact on the liquid stored in the cask.

“Fine grain oak from slow growth timber is typically preferred for wine due to its organoleptic profile, which includes softer tannins. Spirit barrels are traditionally made from trees that grow at a slightly faster rate. Wines are 12 to 15 percent alcohol, and often light in nature. Whiskies, for example, generally enter the barrel at 50 percent alcohol or higher, and a bolder oak profile is sought.”

In order to impart the vanilla, spice and buttery/caramel notes, locked in the wood, into the spirit, the casks are exposed to flame and toasted or charred on the inside. While achieved the same way, toasting and charring are actually quite different and each is done with a different outcome in mind.

“Wine barrels are generally toasted and made from oak that has been seasoned for approximately two years,” Boswell notes. “American oak is commonly used for wine barrels, but the majority of the world’s wine barrels are made from French oak. The spirit barrels are generally charred. French oak is used for spirits, primarily Cognac, but the majority of the world’s spirit barrels are made from American white oak. The beer industry doesn’t use barrels as heavily as the other two categories; however, both spirit and wine barrels have been used with great success in the beer industry.”

When Boswell talks of “seasoning,” what he’s referring to is how the staves are prepared in the open air prior to the cask-making processes.

“Seasoning refers to drying and degradation of the wood polymers by natural elements and microflora,” he explains, “which creates smaller molecules that will transform into aromas and flavours during toasting or charring. Think of aging meat, cheeses or other foods.”

ucky Crud.” It’s an anvisitors to, the Bluegrass particular stew of allerto the human respirato-

Casks used for bourbon maturation (for example), are typically given a fairly substantial char — number two or higher on a scale of one to four (number four char being referred to as “alligator char” due to the somewhat reptile skin look the firescorched wood takes on).

The ISC tour certainly was eye opening on several levels, not least in the form of some good-looking, very fit, and occasionally shirtless young males wielding Thor-like hammers to pound stubborn hoops and barrel heads into (or out of ) place. This definitely added to the experience for the female contingent of the tour group (essentially everyone but me).

Boswell concluded things by giving an overview of how barrel making at the ISC has progressed.

“Today, we have a ‘menu’ of barrel offerings that provide a wide variety of organoleptic properties, and we can do so with great consistency. This menu has been developed and fine-tuned over the past 25 years. We now offer more than 100 different barrel types. Before that, we only offered a handful of options.”

What goes into making a barrel is interesting, but personally, I’m typically somewhat more interested in what actually goes into the barrel (and eventually comes out). And in Kentucky, it’s whiskey — bourbon to be precise.

“There are currently more barrels of bourbon in Kentucky than people,” Jones informs, citing a population of 4.2 million people and a whiskey stash of some 4.9 million barrels. “And there’s one or two of those barrels here,” he deadpans as we pull to a stop at the Jim Beam American Stillhouse.

Jim Beam (purchased in 2014 by Japan’s Suntory Holdings Ltd to become Beam Suntory) has production facilities and warehouses throughout the state, but the American Stillhouse is the original site of the distillery, and also incorporates the rackhouses, restaurant, gift shop, tasting room and Jim Beam’s original house.

Resting in the 29, airy, nine-story(!) hilltop rackhouses on the site are close to two million white oak barrels filled with patiently maturing bourbon. These buildings are not heated, and the temperature expansion and contraction of the barrels affects the speed the spirit matures. In order to even out maturation rates, the barrels are shifted to various levels at different times of the year.

While the legal requirements for bourbon stipulate two years of barrel maturation, these whiskies typically rest for double this time, or longer depending on the brand. In fact, the Jim Beam distillery is actually two stillhouses in one. The “Big House” produces the Jim Beam Rye and Black Label (the flagship White Label, the world’s top selling bourbon, is distilled on a different site), while the Small Batch brands (including Knob Creek, Booker’s, Baker’s and Basil Hayden) emanate from a smaller still.

The final whiskies are more often than not made of a blend of mature spirits from different barrels to maintain consistency.

However, “single barrel” bourbons like the Knob Creek Single Barrel are not uncommon. It’s the actual variation from barrel to barrel that make these whiskies so fascinating to aficionados.

“Consistency was Dad’s pet peeve, but purists love inconsistency,” Fred Booker Noe III, Jim Beam’s seventh generation Master Distiller, tells me over lunch in reference to his father, the late — and legendary — Fred Booker Noe Jr. As mentioned earlier, the maturation system for bourbon is pretty strict. Probably the strictest rule is the stipulation that the barrels be brand new and filled only once. When they’re emptied, they’re done. This poses a couple interesting considerations, the most pressing probably being what to do with the used barrels, the other being what to do about the spirit that has leached into the rather porous new oak. To the latter problem, the Jim Beam folks found a way of recovering some of this locked-in spirit to use in their Devil’s Cut brand (the name being a play on the “angels’ share.” We’ll get to that). To the former problem, you can always send your barrels to a distiller that doesn’t require new barrels. Maybe to one in Scotland. Or, perhaps, one in Canada.

THE BISCUITY SMELL OF DRYING STILLAGE (spent grains) permeates the muggy August air of Walkerville as I wait outside the Canadian Club Heritage Centre for Tish Harcus, the Centre’s manager and Canadian Club Brand Ambassador. Incorporated in 1890, and now a precinct of Windsor, Ontario, Walkerville was founded as a self contained “model town” by Hiram Walker, yet another legend in the annals of distilling. History runs deep through the roads and architecture of Walkerville, and Harcus is as knowledgeable as she is vivacious, regaling us as we walk, cocktail in DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 41

STAVING OFF THIRST

JIM BEAM SIGNATURE CRAFT BOURBON WHISKEY 12 YEARS ($40/700 ML) A relatively new entry in the Jim Beam portfolio, the Signature Craft line is designed (one suspects) to encourage loyal JB fans to move up the ladder a bit.

A blend of specially selected barrels, it shows subtle smoke, marmalade, clove, vanilla and caramel on the nose, with warm, spicy, dried fruit flavours and a long, balanced, mildly spicy finish.

BOOKER’S TRUE BARREL BOURBON, 7 YEAR OLD, BATCH NO C07-A-12 ($70) Created by distilling legend Fred “Booker” Noe and part of the Jim Beam’s Original Small Batch Bourbon Collection, this whiskey is typically bottled between six and eight years old at full barrel strength. Peppery, earthy, smoky with some polished old oak and dried apricot notes. Dry, intense and peppery on the palate with loads of smoke, citrus and fruitcake flavours. Finishes long and dry. Not for the faint-hearted.

KNOB CREEK SINGLE BARREL RESERVE, 9 YEAR OLD ($55) Another member of the Original Small Batch Bourbon Collection. Heavily charred barrels (#4 char) and nine years aging results in a bourbon that offers up charred wood, caramel, vanilla, crème brûlée aromas followed through with flavours of rich, sweet oak, toasted nuts and dried citrus fruit with a lingering smokiness on the end notes.

CANADIAN CLUB CLASSIC 12 ($28) The venerable Canadian Club line of Canadian Whiskies expanded a while back to include not only the flagship 1858, but also the nine-year-old Reserve, the Sherry Cask, and this Classic 12. With a higher rye content than the 1858 and lots of barely malt, its aromas hint at hard toffee, candied citrus fruit, a touch of clove and some fairly pronounced toasty oak nuances.

Quite complex and rich, with a hint of buckwheat honey and butterscotch in a rich, smooth style.

CANADIAN CLUB SHERRY CASK ($31.95) I’ll admit to being less than enthusiastic the first time I tried the CC Sherry Cask quite a few years ago.

The sherry and whiskey components, at that time, didn’t seem to really marry that well. Well, I’m happy to report that along with the repack, a “reblend” also seems to have occurred (though truth be told, there had been ongoing experimentation with this brand’s blend). Some sultana notes, along with traces of blackcurrant with suggestions of fig/date/fruitcake.

A touch of sweet fruit in the mouth buttressed by cocoa and traces of nutmeg and clove.

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Though the story of the whisky barrel ends here, barrels play other, less common roles in the beverage industry. While whisky casks would never (one hopes) be used to age wine (though the reverse works pretty well), the same isn’t the case with beer. Since beer and whisky have a true affinity (the latter essentially starting as the former), aging beer in whisky barrels seems a logical move.

“Done well, barrel or oak aging can completely transform the flavours of beer,” claims Douglas Sharp, founder and CEO of Innis & Gunn, the Scottish brewer that has made its (highly respected) name on the basis of its cask-aged beer. “It adds layers of flavour and complexity like no other technique.”

Sharp, whose company’s beers include rum finished, Irish whiskey finished and Canadian cherrywood finished examples (among others), notes that the flavours imparted by the oak can range from a simple, light oaky note, “… to flavours of rich vanilla and toffee, with a silky mouthfeel.”

He sees them as a “… brilliant alternative to hop-led beers — they are every bit as flavoursome but without the mouth-puckering bitterness.”

The popularity of the Innis & Gunn range pushed Sharp and his crew to develop some ingenious ways of working around the global shortage of barrels, and to satisfy the global demand for its beers.

One development was the Oakerator. Described by Sharp as “arguably one of the most innovative developments in brewing in recent years,” the Oakerator is something like a giant coffee percolator that puts the oak into the beer as oppose to putting the beer into oak.

Innis & Gunn now have the option of using traditional barrels, the Oakerator, or a combination of both.

The barrel-aged cocktail craze is also breathing new life into (and increasing the demand for) barrels. Not exactly a new trend (cocktails were often batched and stored in casks prior to bottling as far back as the late 1800s), but it’s been revived and is likely here to stay, though interest may be slipping a bit according to Jenner Cormier, Reserve Spirit Consultant and World Class Ambassador for Diageo Canada. “It depends on where you are in the world,” Cormier adds. “Different cities tend to progress in cocktail culture at different rates, and different cities also have laws in place which can prevent bartenders from mixing any cocktails before a guest orders it.”

Home mixologists can get in on the action; it just requires a smaller scale. “Using a full size 250 litre barrel even in a bar would be an absolute nightmare unless you had a venue that could support that much liquid,” Cormier muses (obviously having not met certain friends of mine). “Aging will also occur at different rates depending on barrel size. ‘Personal’ sized barrels are available to purchase online — I believe they start around one litre and work their way up from there, up to around five litres. They are also very reasonably priced, ranging from $58 to $90.” Soaking oak batons in a large jar full of cocktail can also do the job in a pinch.

While darker spirits have more of an affinity with oak, cocktails made with lighter spirits can also develop complexity though barrel aging. The key, of course, is to carefully monitor the flavour progression of the cocktail as it ages. Whether staved jars or actual barrels, “not properly managing the liquid in the barrel will result in something that tastes closer to a soggy pencil than, say, a Manhattan,” Cormier cautions. “All barrels are not created equal, so it is crucial to monitor the contents to ensure that you are not going past that ‘sweet spot.’”

hand, through the Centre with stories of Prohibition, smuggling, gangsters and secret, whisky-soaked tunnels that helped, in part, to supply thirsty Americans with Canadian contraband. “Do you know where the term bootlegging comes from?” she asks, holding up a glass bottle sporting the slightly convex shape of what we would recognize as a “mickey” flask. “A bottle like this would fit comfortably down the inside of a boot, against your leg.”

Made since 1858, Canadian Club whisky — originally called “Club Whisky” because of its exclusivity to American gentleman’s clubs — became enormously popular. So much so that it threatened the sale of American whiskey to the point where US authorities required a country of origin designation to appear on all imported brands. To satisfy this trade demand, Club Whisky became Canadian Club (CC to us natives).

The once-filled barrels arriving to be used for CC are first re-charred to burn off remaining bourbon and expose new wood.

The barrel is refilled with CC, aged and dumped. This happens four times with each barrel, with each subsequent filling subtly changing the impact of the wood on the whisky. The various Canadian Club expressions (including its signature 1858, Reserve, Small Batch Classic 12, Small Batch Sherry Cask and, most recently, the Chairman’s Select 100% Rye) are matured longer than

the legal minimum of three years. They are also blended prior to being introduced to barrels so that the flavours can best marry with age. Unlike many brown spirits, no additional colouring is added during production (the eight-month-old cask sample I tasted was water-white — and of dangerously high octane).

The maturation warehouses, where the 850 to 900 or so thousand barrels of CC rest, differ from their bourbon counterpart in that they are temperature controlled, eliminating the labour of barrel rotation and/or repositioning. However, this still doesn’t prevent evaporation — the “angel’s share” — as the wood breathes. “For the first five years, each barrel will lose three percent to the ‘angels,’” Harcus reveals. “This increases to five percent over six to nine years, and six percent between 10 and 12 years.” I’m tempted here to say something really clever about AA angels, but it’s just not coming to me.

At the end of their four-year cycle, the barrels are finally put to pasture, at least as far as the production of Canadian Club goes. The old practice of granting them to distillery employees has, like the angel’s share, evaporated. No telling what the recipients might have done with a whisky-soaked barrel (and maybe a few pails of water). I know I’d probably do what a lot of them apparently did. Before the liquor regulators put a stop to it all. × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 43

MON SHERRY

by Sarah Parniak

For most of my (drinking) life, I perceived sherry as outdated, classless and ferred sip of British grandmothers and red-nosed ramblers. I sidelined it as alone a viable cocktail ingredient, rejecting it as too boring and inconseque time and precious liver demerits — without ever really giving it a chance.

Then one evening, I was handed a glass of Tio Pepe. As I sipped the silky, saline fino and munched on fat green olives and Marcona almonds, my taste buds skipped a beat.

I must have had a half bottle of Tio to myself that night, entranced by its uniqueness, versatility and lip-smacking savoury layers. Just like that, my misinformed indifference was ousted by full-blown obsession — an experience to which more and more people can relate.

Modern drinkers are beginning to open their minds, hearts and palates to what was long ago one of the world’s most popular tipples. Bartenders are using what Peter Liem, sherry expert and author of Sherry, Manzanilla & Montilla, aptly calls the “inimitable wines of Jerez” to inspire and shape cocktails once again.

The first celebrity bartenders, Jerry Thomas and Harry Johnson (authors of bartenders’ guides first published in 1862 and 1888, respectively), featured sherry in many of their concoctions. Towards the end of the 19th century, the popularity of the Sherry Cobbler was at an all time high. Bartenders served Sherry Punches, Sangarees, Flips and Possets, the Bamboo and the Adonis — and the drinking public lapped them all up.

But a series of unfortunate circumstances slashed sherry’s golden hour; by the end of the 19th century, the wine’s appeal began to dull with the proliferation of low-brow imitators trying to cash in on its once-immense popularity. It fell out of fashion in Britain, its longtime largest market. Soon after, the phylloxera blight devastated the vineyards of Jerez, solidifying sherry’s fall from grace.

Though sherry enjoyed small upswings throughout the 20th century, it was never considered an essential cocktail ingredient as it was in its hey day. It became the unloved dinosaur of the cocktail bar. Forgotten on a dusty shelf, if not completely absent; a lone, stale copa requested only by the occasional octogenarian.

Luckily, the current Zeitgeist presents equal opportunity; the old is new (and exciting) again. Over the past few years, sherry’s risen from the ashes, sought out and spotted on high-profile cocktail lists in major cities.

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In Toronto, the savoury cocktail trend coupled with a bottomless appetite for Spanish-inspired cuisine has turned the city’s bartenders into champions of the re-emergent sherry cocktail.

From a bartender’s perspective, there’s a lengthy list of reasons to experiment with Andalucian wines outside of history and the hipster fixation with resurrecting the obscure. Its complexities make it a difficult but rewarding ingredient.

Kyle Burch, bar manager at chef Chris McDonald’s Cava in midtown Toronto, always has a handful of sherry cocktails on offer. The acclaimed, traditionally focused Spanish restaurant has always incorporated sherry into their wine program in a big way, usually stocking around 25 bottles, all of which are available by the glass. Considering sherry’s limited lifespan (it’s wine and spoils, lasting from one week to a month plus if refrigerated, depending on the style), Burch gets to taste and play with one of the country’s largest sherry selections.

Mixing with this golden liquid can yield incredible results — sharp, savoury notes, nutty depth, a round, everlasting finish — but its assertive singularities make it difficult to integrate gracefully.

“Sherry is a very jealous mistress,” Burch laughs. “It’s either that you’re not using enough and it gets washed out by other flavours, or you use too much and it washes everything out.”

He takes a patient and cooperative approach when mixing with sherry, working with its quirks rather than trying to bridle them.

“I let it take its own shape and maybe just guide it in a certain direction,” he said. “Because it wants to dominate, it has a personality of its own and you kind of have to allow it to do so, to accent rather than fight to achieve a more harmonious and balanced drink.”

Robin Kaufman, barman at the Toronto Temperance Society, a members-only cocktail bar in Little Italy, mixes everything from a rich, fruity dessert cocktail made with Manzanilla, Chardonnay, Tanqueray 10, Poire William, honey and star anise to Trident Sours (Fino, Aquavit, Cynar, citrus, sugar, egg white, bitters) — a Trident variation inspired by his good friend and professional peer, John Bunner. Though he uses it

Y AMOUR

painfully uncool — the prean enjoyable beverage, let ential — a waste of money, frequently behind the bar, Kaufman agrees that sherry cocktails present a particular challenge.

“It’s harder to balance than almost anything else — there are so many nuances from dry to sweet,” he observes. “Sweet vermouth is sweet vermouth and dry is dry, besides slight variations they don’t vary that much. But every sherry is a new game.”

Sherry’s spectrum of styles, from bone dry, savoury finos and Manzanillas to hyper-nutty olorosos and decadent PX make it a provocative and intriguing ingredient to work with.

“Definitely with sherry, you encounter more failures than you encounter successes,” Burch admits.

But when it’s right, a sherry cocktail can be a revelation; seamlessly woven, its complexities are compelling and unmatched. It’s a bit of a conundrum; for a headstrong ingredient, it’s incredibly versatile.

“We barely have any [sherry available to us in Ontario] and we still have the ability to fill any gap with it. It’ll jump in any sort of drink,” Kaufman said. “Whether it’s spirit forward or something refreshing, it has a place.”

Burch adores the bright brininess and flinty notes that finos and amontillados can add to a drink.

“Sherry lends itself so well to the savoury spectrum,” Burch said. “And I find as far as cocktailing goes, building a savoury drink is one of the more challenging aspects.”

The challenge extends to the imbiber, as well. Sherry can be off-putting without a context.

Burch offers a fino cocktail with peaches and orgeat at Cava, but makes a point of warning guests that despite the description, it’s not sweet — it’s fino. He finds introducing people to the drink with food is vital to understanding and appreciating its strengths.

Then a good classic cobbler (served over crushed ice with fruit and sugar) becomes entirely approachable.

Kaufman thinks temperature plays a crucial part in appreciating sherry cocktails. There’s a tendency for bartenders to mix drinks as cold as possible, a tactic from which not all liquors, sherry included, benefit.

He’s started throwing his sherry cocktails (an old technique that involves pouring from tin to tin, simultaneously aerating and diluting a cocktail), mirroring the traditional Spanish method of venencia — pouring in a precise, elongated stream with a flexible rod used for sampling sherry from the barrel.

“Most cocktails improve with temperature,” Kaufman said.

“I find that last sip is probably a lot better than the first, which is really rare with most drinks.”

Another one of the drink’s special powers is its incredible value; considering the quality, complexity and overall age of most sherries, it’s still one of the most underrated products on the market.

“It punches well above its weight — it’s so undervalued,” Burch notes, playfully adding, “And I kind of hope it stays that way. Right now, sherry as an ingredient is so inexpensive and it’s so good.”

So, will it become the next bourbon — raised from the mire of inconsequence to a top tier beverage trend? Likely not. For all of its lovable characteristics, sherry is too multi-dimensional to become a default cocktail base.

“Part of the appeal is that it will always be esoteric,” Burch muses. “You have to develop a taste for it.”

But once you’ve fought for sherry’s love and emerged triumphant — if not slightly bewildered and a little battered — she’s yours forever. The rest of your life will be a continual quest for the perfect fino sour. ×

ROBIN KAUFMAN’S APRICOT FINO SOUR

2 3/4 1/2

1

oz fino oz briotete apricot oz simple 1:1 oz lemon Egg white

Dry shake all the ingredients well and then shake again with ice. Strain into a chilled glass and mark with Peychauds bitters. Garnish with aromatic orange oil and discard peel.

KYLE BURCH’S EL DUGLAS 1 1/2 3/4

1/4

1/4

oz Los Arcos Amontillado oz Te Bheag oz lemon oz Lyle’s Golden syrup Dash of Abbots bitters

Shake ingredients well and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

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46 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

brunch!

There comes a time between breakfast and lunch when tummies scream and/or gurgle for sustenance. Be it the chocolate bar stashed in an office drawer for just such an occasion, a second donut to chomp with a fourth coffee or a slice of last night’s apple pie to go with a cup of tea for elevenses, there’s a time somewhere in here when we need a little something to ease mid-morning pangs of hunger, and at the same time, to please palates.

by Duncan Holmes

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 47

ALL OF THESE THINGS ARE THE FARE OF MONDAY TO FRIDAY, THE WORKDAY, GRAB-AND-GO DAYS. These are mini-meals that in-

vented themselves out of necessity, but never really found a solid spot between the three squares.

Then came the weekend. Enough of the stolen moments of simple snacks. These are the days to bring on this thing called brunch! The days to trot out the piled-high breads, buns and bagels, the exotic jams and jellies, the frou-frou foods that celebrate those historically-clear Saturdays and Sundays. When even in the middle of the day, we can pop the champagne and party on.

Wikipedia elegantly describes brunch as a portmanteau of “breakfast” and “lunch” — it originated in England in the late 1800s and became popular on this side in the 1930s. Whenever it happened, it was a good idea. A meal that presented the right food at the right time. More than breakfast, less than lunch, it is “cheerful, sociable and inciting. It sweeps away the worries and cobwebs of the week.”

Clean up the leftovers of a non-descript dressing-gown and pyjama-decorated semblance of a very petit déjeuner, and prepare for a mid-day feast of much more lavish sweets and savouries.

A post-church formal table groaning with a roast of fourlegged protein, mashed potatoes, gravy and stilted conversation?

No way, dear choristers and congregation! Forget that “postchurch ordeal.” Invite the rellies and friends to a Saturday or Sunday bruncheon smorg. Get going around noon and keep it bubbling until the doggy-bags are packed, the sun goes down and everyone wanders home to a night of whatever.

OK, all of this joyful informality may not be quite universal in our 21st century bungalows, high-rises and basement suites.

To begin with, weekends are not as clear of work as they once were. As well as there being a need to cut the lawn, shovel the snow or make a trip to the supermarket, technology has kept many of us text-close to offices and other Monday-Friday responsibilities. The work week, sorry to say, is too often all week.

Families are fragmented and high-priced sit-down meals simply don’t happen as they once did.

My research among foodies and others seems to say that the informal, but sumptuous brunch has, or is replacing the weekend Norman Rockwell-type table d’hote that began with soup or salad, followed with a fancy app, a main and a dessert. We simply don’t have the time, the money, the inclination or the politically-correct chopping boards to keep doing it that way. Tell me it ain’t so, but many of us have moved on.

To what? To a loose and more-lovely brunch with family and/ or friends, where taste rules. Special dietary issues? By all means welcome pot-luck offerings of exotic soy concoctions, quinoa salads, mounds of brown rice or whatever it is that the diet-special people enjoy. And if you wish, mix and match their fare with the things you’ve made for the rest of the mob — with delicious meats, eggs and cream. And do begin brunch with the pop of a champagne cork, because that’s the way you do it. For the designated drivers, a chilled bottle or three of Badoit.

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Many weekend brunch dishes can be made in spare creative times and frozen. Thawed the morning of, and reheated.

I’ve also found that a big weekend brunch presents an opportunity for a “black box,” with what’s in the fridge or freezer.

The savoury pie I made (below) was concocted from what was available. Forgive me if the recipe lacks precision, but I wasn’t making notes as I put it together. Adjust to make use of what you have. It’s forgiving.

SAVOURY PIE

SERVES 4 I made this for brunch with ingredients I had on hand, including the tomatoes, which I had seasoned and baked in a slow oven during the previous season, bagged and frozen.

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The pastry cups flour cup butter or lard egg tbsp white vinegar tbsp cold water tsp salt

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The filling cup sweet onion, diced cup summer sausage, diced cup celery, diced cup mushrooms, diced medium can chopped tomatoes cup heavy cream eggs, beaten Grated cheddar Herbs and spices, to taste

1. Chop the butter into the flour, and mix until it has the consistency of corn meal. Beat the egg and vinegar together, and add to the flour. Add enough water to bring together as dough.

2. After resting the dough for an hour or so, roll and line a large baking dish. Prick the dough with a fork and bake in a preheated 375˚F oven for 15 minutes.

3. Remove and allow to cool. Fry the onion, sausage, celery and mushrooms in an oiled pan for five or so minutes or until heated through and browned.

4. Mix with the tomatoes and spread the mixture into the pie shell. Mix the eggs and cream together with your choice of seasonings, and add to the pie.

5. Top with grated cheddar and nutmeg. Bake for 40 minutes or until golden brown in a 375˚F oven.

blueberry muffins

I was ‘long’ on some frozen blueberries — away in the back of the freezer — when I first made these. Take special note of the short stir. It makes a better muffin.

1 3/4 cups sifted flour

2 tsp baking powder 2/3 tsp salt 1/3 cup sugar

4 tbsp butter, melted and cooled 3/4 cup milk

2 eggs beaten

1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries

1 tsp grated orange or lemon peel (optional) 1. Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar.

2. Add the butter and milk to the eggs, and combine with dry ingredients in a few swift strokes; fold in the fruit and the peel, if using, before the dry ingredients are completely moist. Be sure to hold the mixing to an absolute minimum — a light stirring of 10 to 20 seconds — that will leave some lumps. Ignore them. The dough should break in coarse globs.

3. Fill well-greased muffin pans about two thirds full. Bake in a preheated 400˚F oven for 20 to 25 minutes. If the muffins are left in the pans for a few moments after leaving the oven, they will be easier to remove. They are best when eaten promptly.

SWEET DOUGH

This invariably ends up as cinnamon rolls, which, when sloshed with butter, pair beautifully with brunch. If you’re new to yeast baking, don’t be scared.

You’ll be amazed at your results and your guests will call you a genius.

1 package dry yeast

1/4 cup warm water

1/4 cup lukewarm milk (scalded, then cooled)

1/4 cup sugar 1/2 tsp salt

1 egg

1/4 cup shortening 2 1/4-2 1/2 cups flour 1. Dissolve yeast in warm water in large mixing bowl. Stir in milk, sugar, salt, egg, shortening and 1 1/4 cups of the flour. Beat until smooth.

Stir in enough remaining flour to make dough easy to handle. Turn onto lightly floured surface.

2. Knead for about 5 minutes — until smooth and elastic. Place in greased bowl, greased side up. Cover and let rise in warm place until double — about 1 1/2 hours.

3. If you’re making cinnamon rolls, mix 1/2 cup brown sugar, 2 tsp cinnamon and 1/2 cup raisins. Roll the dough into a rectangle about 15 x 9 inches, spread with 2 tbsp butter and add the mixed ingredients.

4. Roll up tightly, beginning at one of the long sides. Pinch edge to seal. Cut into rolls about two inches wide.

5. Place on greased tray, let rise (about 45 minutes) then bake for about 25 to 30 minutes in a 375˚F oven.

6. If you like them really gooey, top with a mixture of half a cup of icing sugar and a tbsp milk.

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 49

salad niçoise SERVES 2 TO 4 Vancouver chef friend Marcus Von Albrecht offered this recipe when I was looking for a fresh and colourful salad to add to the brunch mix. Marcus is an owner of Mava Foods, a company that utilizes local ingredients to produce home-meal replacements. He is past president of the BC Chefs’ Association, and this year was inducted into the CCFCC Honour Society Hall of Fame.

2 tbsp red wine vinegar Salt and pepper, to taste 1/2 cup virgin olive oil

4 basil leaves, chiffonade (cut into thin strips) 1/3 head chicory

2 tomatoes cut into eighths 1/2 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into slices 1/2 cup green beans, sliced on a bias

2 whole artichokes, cooked, cut into quarters

2 whole eggs, hard boiled, cut into quarters

4 pieces romaine, washed 1/2 red, yellow and green bell peppers, cut into batonnet size 250 g albacore tuna, fresh, grilled and chilled

1/4 cup nicoise olives 1. Make a vinaigrette dressing, using the red wine vinegar, salt, pepper, olive oil and basil leaves. Wash and dry the chicory.

2. Core and cut each tomato into wedges. Peel and slice the cucumbers. Trim and cook the green beans al dente, chill.

3. Peel the eggs and cut into wedges. Cook the artichokes, trim the outer leaves from each artichoke, leaving only the heart. Remove the choke from the heart and cut into quarters.

4. Line each cold plate with two romaine leaves, then arrange the remaining ingredients on top of the leaves. Top with tuna.

5. Whisk the dressing and pour on top of salad.

50 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

COCONUT CURRY EGGS WITH GUJARATI CHICKPEA CRÊPES

SERVES 6 TO 8 The great and jolly Vancouver chef Karen Barnaby obliged with this mighty tasty recipe. In her intro she wrote that “after watching over thousands of plates of traditional brunch items, I wouldn’t mind at all if I never again saw another Eggs Benedict, plate of French Toast, or a stack of blueberry pancakes. But this is a dish I would be happy to see at any meal.” Said Chef Karen: “You can eat it by pouring the curry over the crêpes, or ripping the crêpes into large pieces and using them to scoop up pieces of egg and sauce. The recipe can be easily doubled and all the components can be made in advance. All of the ingredients for both dishes can be found at an East Indian grocer or a well-stocked grocery store that caters to an East Indian population.” Curry leaves come in bunches and the leaves are easy to strip from the stems. What you don’t use can be frozen for use in future delicious curries.

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extra large eggs, hard cooked tbsp extra-virgin coconut oil tsp black mustard seeds curry leaves cup finely diced red onion medium-sized ripe tomatoes, finely chopped serrano chilies, slit on one side tsp finely chopped garlic tsp grated fresh ginger tsp garam masala tsp turmeric tsp coarsely ground black pepper can coconut milk (414 ml) Sea salt to taste Cilantro leaves for garnishing

1. Place the eggs in a pot large enough to hold them comfort-

ably. Add cold water to cover the eggs by 2-inches. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil. Cover the pot and remove from the heat. Let the eggs sit for 10 minutes. Immediately cool under cold running water until completely cold. Shell the eggs and set aside. This can be done up to a day in advance.

2. In a medium-sized pot, heat the coconut oil over high heat.

Add the mustard seeds and let them pop and dance about. Add the curry leaves and stir once. Add the onion, garlic, ginger and chilies.

3. Turn the heat to medium and cook until the onions soften and start to turn golden around the edges. Add the turmeric and garam masala and stir to mix the spices in well with the onion mixture. Continue stirring for about 30 seconds.

4. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring frequently until the tomatoes disintegrate. Add the black pepper and the coconut milk. Bring to a simmer, then turn down the heat. (The sauce can be done up to a day in advance. Cool and refrigerate the mixture.

You may need to add a little water when reheating as the sauce will thicken with sitting.)

5. Cut a lengthwise slit on one side of each egg just down to the yolk. Add the eggs to the sauce and simmer for 5 minutes until the eggs are hot all the way through. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with the cilantro.

GUJARATI CHICKPEA CRÊPES

MAKES 16 CREPES If you’re familiar with making crêpes, the technique is the same for making these. The recipe makes a lot of crêpes because I’m assuming that your first few may not turn out, as is generally the case until you get your technique and heat adjustment figured out. (Chickpea flour is known as besan.)

2 2/3 cups chickpea flour

2 cups water

1 serrano chili, finely chopped (remove the seeds before chopping for less heat)

2 cups fresh cilantro leaves, loosely packed

4 tsp grated fresh ginger

4 tsp coarsely crushed cumin seeds 1 1/2 tsp sea salt Vegetable oil for cooking the crêpes 1. Whisk the water into the chickpea flour to form a smooth batter. Stir in the remaining ingredients. Cover and let sit for 30 minutes to 2 hours or refrigerate overnight.

2. Heat an 8-inch (10 cm) non-stick pan over medium heat and oil lightly using a brush. Stir the batter and add a scant 1/4 cup to the pan, swirling the pan around by the handle to form a round crêpe.

3. Cook until lightly browned, then flip over and cook on the other side until brown spots appear. Continue making the crêpes, regulating the heat so they cook nicely and oiling the pan before making each one.

4. Stir up the batter before making each crêpe. These are best eaten as soon as they are made. Keep them stacked on a plate in a low oven until all are completed.

POTATO AND ONION TORTILLA

A signature dish of Spain, this delicious thick potato and onion omelette is eaten at all times of the day, hot or cold.

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cups olive oil large potatoes, peeled and sliced Spanish onions, sliced medium eggs Salt and ground black pepper Cherry tomatoes, halved, to serve

1. Heat the oil in a large, non-stick frying pan. Stir in the potato, onion and a little salt. Cover and cook gently for 20 minutes until soft. Beat the eggs in a large bowl.

2. Remove the onion and potato from the pan with a slotted spoon and add to the eggs. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Pour off some of the oil, leaving about 4 tbsp in the pan. (Reserve the leftover oil for other cooking!) Heat the pan again.

4. When the oil is very hot, pour in the egg mixture. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Cover the pan with a plate and invert the omelette onto it.

5. Slide it back into the pan and cook for a further five minutes until golden brown and moist in the middle. Serve in wedges with the tomatoes. × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 51

BOUQUET GARNI BY NANCY JOHNSON ...

DO YOU HEAR WHAT I HEAR? I LOVE CHRISTMAS CAROLS. While some people may have become jaded to the merry yodelling of old-timey carols, I warmly embrace them. Traditional carols are a bridge to all of my Christmases past, as reassuring as a tuck-in at night from Mom, a warm blanket on Christmas Eve and the certainty that Santa will have arrived by morning.

I remember my son predicting I would cry at his third-grade Christmas pageant because the class was performing “Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas.” He was right, I did, and still do when I hear that carol. The song embodies the simplest of sentiments: a wish that we all will be together, if the fates allow. We’ll hang a shining star upon the highest bow and have ourselves a merry little Christmas now.

The following are some of the holiday dishes I’ll be making this year.

BUTTERNUT SOUP WITH COCONUT MILK

SERVES 6 A twist on traditional butternut soup with the addition of coconut milk, which is added later in the process so that it doesn’t curdle.

To cut through a butternut squash, I gently tap the back of a sharp knife with a mallet. The knife slides right through the squash with no risk of nicking my fingers. I find butternut soup has the most body when potatoes are added. Here I’ve added one sweet and one russet potato but you can add two of the same. Best carol to cook to: “It’s Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas” by Michael Bublé.

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tbsp olive oil small onion, minced clove garlic, minced tbsp fresh ginger, minced cups good-quality chicken broth cups water tsp salt large butternut squash, peeled and cubed sweet potato russet potato bay leaf tsp dried thyme can coconut milk tbsp lime juice Cayenne and cilantro, for garnish

1. Heat oil in a Dutch oven. Add onion; sauté until softened.

Add garlic and ginger; sauté 1 minute.

2. Add broth, water, salt, squash, potatoes, bay leaf and thyme.

Bring to a boil.

3. Reduce heat; cover and simmer 20 minutes or until squash is tender. Remove bay leaf. Stir in coconut milk and heat through.

4. Blend in batches in blender until smooth. (Or use a handheld immersion blender.) Stir in lime juice. Garnish with cayenne and cilantro.

MATCH: Serve with a Soave.

52 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

BAKED SALMON WITH HERB AND SWEET MUSTARD SAUCE

SERVES 4 I have worked very hard to incorporate more seafood into my diet and this recipe is a star. Simple, easy and elegant — it’s a perfect dish for company. If you can’t find Bavarian sweet mustard, use any honey mustard, with or without heat. In December, a bit of fresh herbs in a dish is a surprising treat. Best carol to cook to: “Driving Home for Christmas” by Chris Rea.

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tbsp fresh parsley, minced tbsp fresh chives, minced large cloves garlic, pressed tsp Bavarian sweet mustard Juice of 1/2 lemon Salt and pepper, to taste cup olive oil salmon fillets lemon slices

1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. 2. In a medium bowl, mix parsley, chives, garlic, mustard, lem-

on juice, salt, pepper and olive oil.

3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange salmon on baking sheet.

4. Layer each fillet with a lemon slice. Pour mustard sauce over salmon.

5. Bake, uncovered, 15 to 20 minutes or until salmon is cooked through and flakes easily with fork.

MATCH: Serve with a rich and buttery Chardonnay — a Meursault if you have it.

× Search through a wide range of wine-friendly recipes on quench.me

BREAKFAST QUICHE

SERVES 4 TO 6 Christmas-morning breakfast is always special. Serve this easy-to-make quiche with roasted potatoes and a fruit salad.

Mix the leftover egg yolks with milk and whip up scrambled eggs for those who aren’t fond of quiche. Carol to cook to: “Frosty the Snowman” by Jimmy Durante.

1 3/4 9 3 1/2 3 125 1 1/4 1/4

frozen deep-dish pie crust, thawed cup 2% cottage cheese egg whites eggs small onion, minced cups baby spinach g ham steak, diced tbsp fresh chives, minced tsp cayenne pepper cup fontina cheese, shredded

1. Preheat oven to 400˚F. 2. Pre-bake pie crust according to package directions. Place on

a baking sheet.

3. In a food processor, purée cottage cheese until smooth, thick and creamy, about 1 1/2 minutes. Add egg whites and eggs. Pulse until combined. Set aside.

4. In large skillet, sauté onion until softened. Add spinach and cook until wilted.

5. Stir in ham, chives and cayenne pepper. Transfer mixture to baked crust.

6. Pour in cottage cheese/egg mixture. Sprinkle with fontina.

7. Bake 35 to 40 minutes or until filling is set.

MATCH: Serve with coffee and Kahlua topped with whipped cream and dusted with cocoa.

OLD-FASHIONED BRAISED SWISS STEAK

SERVES 4 Who makes Swiss steak anymore? This is a dish from the ‘70s that should have never gone away. It renders tough round steak into a meltingly tender entrée. Let the oven do the work while you wrap presents. Music to cook to: “Sleigh Ride” by Johnny Mathis.

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can tomatoes (796 ml) tsp salt tsp pepper medium onions, peeled and quartered clove garlic, peeled large stalk celery with leaves (2 lb) round steak, 1 1/2 inches thick tbsp flour tbsp olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 325˚F. 2. In a food processor, purée tomatoes, salt, pepper, onion,

garlic and celery.

3. Dredge round steak in flour. Sauté in large Dutch oven in hot oil until lightly browned on both sides. Pour tomato mixture over steak.

4. Cover and bake in oven for 2 hours or until tender.

MATCH: Serve with mashed potatoes, peas and a soft, mellow Merlot. × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 53

NOTED ...

93 TRIUS SHOWCASE BLANC DE NOIRS SPARKING 2009, NIAGARA ($55)

FLOR DE CAÑA BLACK LABEL 5 YEARS OLD RUM 40%, NICARAGUA ($26.90)

Shows plenty of aromatic complexity with a panoply of spices, banana, dried tropical fruit and oak. Spirity, but nonetheless refined, with spicy/fruity sweetness followed by charred dry oak on the palate, finishing with dried banana and citrus-peel fruitiness. (SW)

This bubbly is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier. It spent 5 years on its lees with only a tiny amount of sugar added to the dosage. It has a gorgeous light copper colour and an expressive nose of melba toast, light red fruits, violets, loam, brioche and strawberry cream. It has a lively mousse and an array of complex red fruits with touches of earth and creamy notes that are silky and delicate through the palate.

Such a beautiful sparkling wine made in a near bone-dry style. (RV)

90 BLUE MOUNTAIN CHARDONNAY 2012, BC ($23.95)

Tasted blind you might think this was a Pouilly-Fuissé. Light straw in colour, it has that Burgundian nose of spicy oak with a barnyard note. Medium-bodied, well-balanced and textured with peach and orange flavours. (TA)

86 CORNELLANA ROSÉ 2012, CACHAPOAL VALLEY, CHILE ($8.67)

Blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot and a little Pinot Noir.

Clear, medium-deep vermilion colour.

Medium-intensity nose of apple, peach and raspberry. On the palate, it tastes strongly of strawberries and is medium-bodied with a slight sweetness offset by just enough acidity, leaving it soft and approachable. Great summer picnic wine for cucumber and ham sandwiches, and fresh corn on the cob. Drink up. (RL)*

91 CULMINA DECORA 2013, OKANAGAN ($23)

Such a beautiful floral note on the nose with fresh lime, grapefruit and wetslate mineral. This is a Riesling that’s focused, pristine, laser-sharp and complex, combining a range of citrus on the palate with touches of apple, jasmine and gorgeous mineral notes in a near bone-dry style. (RV)

54 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

88 BURROWING OWL SYRAH 2011, OKANAGAN ($33)

In-your-nose scents of violets, black olive, cracked pepper and bacon. Follows up with intense flavours of ripe blueberry, black cherry and liquorice, fully refreshed by juicy acidity and supple tannins. More violets on the soft finish, along with mint and chocolate notes.

Makes me crave BBQ ribs. (HH)

× Find a collection of tasting notes for wine, beer and spirits at quench.me/notes/

Each wine is judged on its own merits, in its respective category. Our scores are based on the wine's quality as well as price point. Readers should assess these, and all wines, using the same criteria. Carefully study the commentaries to get an idea of whether the wine might appeal to your taste. The prices listed are suggested retail prices and may vary from province to province. Since a large number of these wines can be purchased across Canada, check with your local liquor board or private wine store for availability.

Our tasters are Tony Aspler, Gurvinder Bhatia, Tod Stewart, Evan Saviolidis, Rick VanSickle, Ron Liteplo, Harry Hertscheg, Sean Wood, Gilles Bois, Crystal Luxmore and Jonathan Smithe.

QUENCH USES THE 100-POINT SCALE 95-100 = Exceptional 90-94 = Excellent 85-89 = Very good

SPARKLING 92 BENJAMIN BRIDGE BRUT ROSÉ 2010, GASPEREAU VALLEY, NOVA SCOTIA ($55) Bright, exuberant and expressive sparkling with layers of red berries, pretty floral notes and refreshing minerality.

Penetrating flavours with fresh lively bubbles, creamy texture, a firm but elegant backbone and lifted acidity on the lasting finish. Another home run from our country’s finest sparkling-wine producer. (GB)

92 LANSON EXTRA ÂGE BRUT NV, CHAMPAGNE ($96) Pale yellow. Nose has both freshness and complexity; the mature aromas mix together in a hard-to-describe bouquet.

Great balance and body. Racy acidity dominates the finish. A beautiful Champagne. (GBQc)

91 LAURENT-PERRIER BRUT CHAMPAGNE, CHAMPAGNE ($63.95) Pale straw in colour with an active mousse; the nose is all warm brioche and toast. Medium-bodied, dry and lemony with green pear flavours. Beautifully balanced — a wine for celebration or commiseration. (TA)

89 LANSON BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE ($63)

Pale salmon pink. Strawberry and fresh mushroom on the elegant nose. Nice bal-

80-84 = Good 75-79 = Acceptable 70 & under = Below average *Available through wine clubs

ance featuring a fine acidity and delicate fruity taste. Medium length. (GBQc)

WHITE

CANADA 93 VINELAND ESTATES ELEVATION ST. URBAN VINEYARD RIESLING 2012, NIAGARA ($20)

89 FAMIGLIA BIANCHI CHARDONNAY 2013, MENDOZA ($15.95)

Pale straw in colour with a green tint. The nose suggests the scent of a forest floor with spicy apple nuances. It’s mediumto full-bodied with a crisp apple flavour backed by judicious use of oak. (TA)

This is a beauty and, in my mind, the best St. Urban at this level I have tasted.

Classic limestone minerality is the first note on the nose followed by grapefruit, citrus and a touch of peach skin. It is simply gorgeous on the palate with fresh, pristine citrus-grapefruit, river-rock minerality and light peach notes that are delivered on a taut and electric backbone of searing acidity. Power and complexity will serve this Riesling well for many years to come. (RV)

89 CHAKANA MAIPE RESERVE CHARDONNAY/VIOGNIER 2013, MENDOZA ($16)

92 TRIUS SHOWCASE GHOST CREEK RIESLING 2013, NIAGARA ($25)

ARGENTINA

A bold nose of pear, MacIntosh apple and a squirt of citrus and spice. It’s quite textured on the palate with voluptuous ripe fruit and some delicious vanilla-toast spice notes on the finish. (RV)

AUSTRALIA 91 K1 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011, ADELAIDE HILLS ($27.67)

Clear, pale silvery-yellow. Fully developed aromas of melon, pear, pineapple, gooseberry and a bit of “cat’s pee.” Full-bodied, soft and silky mouthfeel, packed with tropical fruits. Will complement foods with lemony flavours such as chicken with preserved lemon, and tabouleh or a Greek salad. Ready to drink. (RL)*

The Ghost Creek Riesling has distinct minerality that is attained from a small parcel of the vineyard. Winemaker Craig McDonald has toned down the residual sugar to 20 g/l, which brings out the personality of the Ghost Creek even more. It has a sharp nose of grapefruit, citrus, green apple and chalk. The palate reveals intense citrus, lime, apple on a tight frame of searing acidity and swirling mineral notes. It is crisp, clean and laser-sharp with layers of flavours that will age brilliantly in the cellar. (RV)

89 TAWSE WINERY SKETCHES OF NIAGARA RIESLING 2013, NIAGARA ($17.95)

Tawse’s entry-level Riesling once again delivers above its price point. Crisp DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 55

NOTED ... and off-dry, it dazzles with apple, bergamot, lime and mineral. A lengthy aftertaste makes for an ideal partner with oysters on the half-shell or spicy tuna sushi. (ES)

89 HAYWIRE RAISED IN CONCRETE PINOT GRIS 2013, OKANAGAN ($20)

Grapes were sourced from the Secrest Vineyard in a cool mountain setting in Oliver and, as the name suggests, fermented in stainless steel and aged for 6 months in concrete tanks. It’s fresh and fruity on the nose with notes of melon, lime, pineapple, peach fuzz and lemon verbena. It has a creamy feel on the palate but maintains freshness from a zippy vein of acidity that props up the citrus, pear and melon fruit. A tasty Pinot Gris. Great on its own or with a poached salmon. (RV)

89 RAVINE VINEYARD RIESLING 2013, NIAGARA ($30)

Resembles a fine Mosel Kabinett. It is off-dry with tangy acidity and a personality of lime zest, bergamot, apple, mineral, honey and peach. Very good length and 8% alcohol make for an enjoyable and easy drinking experience. Don’t wait for dinner. (ES)

88 BURROWING OWL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($22)

Spring’s in the air with scents of freshcut grass, pink grapefruit, passionfruit and gooseberry. Likewise flavours burst with juicy acidity while honey melon and lemongrass linger on the appetizing finish. A classic match with creamy goat cheese. (HH)

88 RAVINE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, NIAGARA ($28) Lime, gooseberry, nectarine, white grapefruit, herbs and minerals weave around a medium body and crisp personality. It is linear with very good length and is a perfect pairing for a grilled vegetable salad topped with goat cheese or chilled shellfish. (ES)

CHILE 89 CORNELLANA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2012, CACHAPOAL VALLEY ($8.67)

Clear pale yellow. Intense nose of lemon, grapefruit, geranium and a hint of mint.

Light-bodied with crisp acidity over lemon, lime and gooseberry flavours. Great value as an everyday house wine. (RL)

87 EMILIANA ADOBE SAUVIGNON BLANC RESERVA 2012, CASABLANCA VALLEY ($13)

This 100% organic white has a nose of lime, grapefruit, fresh-cut grass and herbs. It all follows to the palate with lemon-lime, grapefruit and herbs through a fresh, vibrant finish. (RV)

87 CLOS DES FOUS LOCURA 1 CHARDONNAY 2012, LOS ANDES ($28)

Aromas and flavours of pear and peach; fresh and bright with mineral notes, a touch of buttery-ness, nice complexity and a long, persistent finish. A great turkey wine. (GB)

FRANCE 94 LAMBLIN ET FILS CHABLIS 2009, GRAND CRU FOURCHAUMES ($21.83)

Clear medium-deep gold. Fairly intense nose of a peach and MacIntosh-apple salad dabbed with honey and just a drop of soy sauce. On the palate, it is a rich and full-bodied mouthful of apple and lime seasoned with a bit of salty green olive. The typical zingy Chablis acidity is well-balanced by the fruit.

Long finish. Will peak in another couple of years. Went very well with chicken confit and ancient-grains rice.

Good value. (RL)*

90 DOMAINE DE LA CHAPELLE POUILLY-FUISSÉ VIEILLES VIGNES 2012, BURGUNDY ($45) Elegant and intense, graceful and firm, showcasing floral, apple, pear, peach

56 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

and mineral flavours on a supple texture with beautiful acidity and refreshing minerality on the delicious finish. A lovely wine and great partner for fatty fish, poultry and pork. (GB)

89 WILLIAM FÈVRE CHAMPS ROYAUX 2012 CHABLIS, BURGUNDY ($22.60)

Pale yellow. Classic Chablis nose of citrus and hot dry stone. Discreet fruity taste dominated by mineral accents and sharp acidity. Nice volume, fatty texture, energetic finish. Best drunk with seafood. Try the Baked Salmon with Herb and Sweet Mustard Sauce recipe on page 52. (GBQc)

88 CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR RIESLING RESERVE 2011, ALSACE ($13)

Clear pale yellow. Clean, fully developed, medium-intensity nose featuring peach jam, tangerine and flower aromas with a hint of anise. In the mouth, it is very nearly dry and fairly full-bodied, tasting of peaches and grapefruit with a tinge of herbal flavours. The mouthfeel is fat for a Riesling, but the medium-plus acidity keeps it refreshing.

Drink now. (RL)*

87 LE CHARDONNAY DE SAINT AURIOL 2012, PAYS D’OC IGP ($13.99) Fragrantly perfumed with floral, ripe citrus and stone-fruit scents. Smoothly textured palate unwraps generous citrus and background tropical fruit. Adroitly balanced, finishing with a lick of creamery butter on the finish. Try with a light rabbit stew. (SW)

87 JEAN-PAUL BRUN CHARME CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE BLANC DE BLANCS 2011, BURGUNDY ($35)

Lively, fun and festive with notes of toasted hazelnut, baked apple and lemon curd; lightly creamy in texture with bright, citrusy acidity on the fresh, zippy finish. A great value for the holidays.

Can be had with hors d’oeuvres or simply on its own. (GB)

GERMANY

PORTUGAL

SPAIN

90 SCHLOSS REINHARTSHAUSEN HATTENHEIMER WISSELBRUNNEN RIESLING KABINETT 2012, RHEINGAU ($20.95)

89 TOUCAS ALVARINHO 2012, VINHO VERDE ($19.95)

86 AROUSANA PACO & LOLA 2012, RIAS BAIXAS, GALICIA ($19)

A mouthful in both senses. Light straw in colour with a complex nose of honey, white flowers and grapefruit with mineral notes. Off-dry with honey, apricot and lime flavours and good length. (TA)

ITALY 89 CITRA NIRO PECORINO TERRI DI CHIETI 2013, ABRUZZO ($16)

Pecorino is yet another Italian variety that nearly disappeared and is now being rediscovered. Pale yellow. Subtle nose; delicately fruity with a touch of lanolin. Very clean taste; pure flavour. The zesty acidity and the full mid-palate are in perfect balance.

Round finish to match. (GBQc)

87 SAN RAFFAELE MOUNT TABER ORGANIC PINOT GRIGIO 2013, VENETO ($15)

A nose of fresh peach, lemon zest and apricots. It’s soft and fruity on the palate with melon, citrus, peach and apricot flavours. A nice refresher or serve with seafood and sushi. (RV)

87 MASTROBERARDINO AMINEA GEMINA 2012, GRECO DI TUFO, CAMPANIA ($21) Pale golden yellow. White peach, pear, apricot combine on a pleasant nose.

Soft acidity, light body; well-balanced mid-palate that falls a little near the finish. Easy to drink. (GBQc)

NEW ZEALAND 90 SPINYBACK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, NELSON ($19.95)

New Zealand Sauvignon doesn’t get much better than this for the price. Pale straw in colour with a lime tint; medium-bodied, crisply dry with flavours of gooseberry and green plum. (TA)

A Vinho Verde with more character than usual. Straw-coloured with a nose of apricot pit, white flowers and minerals; medium-bodied, surprisingly sweet and rich on the palate with a lovely mouthfeel.

A well-balanced wine. (TA)

89 LUIS PATO VINHAS VELHAS BRANCO 2012, BEIRAS ($26)

Unoaked fermentation and maturation in stainless steel vats facilitates a fresh style, brightened by herbal and citrus tones. Bical (50%), Cerceal (30%) and Sercialinho (20%) grapes shine through with a creamy texture, apple-y mid-palate and long finish with apricot nuances.

Calls for seafood. (HH)

88 QUINTA DO AMEAL VINHO VERDE BRANCO 2011, PONTE DE LIMA ($17.50)

Delicate floral, herbal and fruity aromas lead to tangy lemon and green apple flavours. This fresh, vibrant, light-bodied style (11.5% alc.) is indicative of the Loureiro grape. Finishes clean and zippy, so it’s poised to pour as an apéritif. (HH)

SOUTH AFRICA 89 SIMONSIG CHENIN BLANC 2013, STELLENBOSCH ($13.95)

You can’t beat this for value. Deep straw in colour with a nose of peach and lanolin.

Medium-bodied with sweet peachy fruit backed by fresh acidity. Drinking well now but could cellar well and develop richness and more texture. (TA)

88 RIEBEEK CELLARS THE ROYAL OLD VINE STEEN CHENIN BLANC 2013, SWARTLAND ($14)

A very fresh style of Chenin with aromas of tropical fruit, apple, citrus and guava. The ripe tropical notes on the palate are lifted by firm acidity through a clean, pure finish. (RV)

Straw-yellow. Citrusy nose, slightly herbaceous. Light body, delicately fruity flavour enhanced by lively acidity. Clean and refreshing. Ready to drink. (GBQc)

UNITED STATES 90 STAGS’ LEAP WINERY VIOGNIER 2013, NAPA VALLEY ($34.95)

This rich, mouth-filling wine is straw-coloured with a spicy, floral/apple nose backed by a touch of oak. Expect richly extracted flavours of melon and citrus carried on a lively spine of acidity. (TA)

88 CALIFORNIA SQUARE RUSSIAN RIVER CHARDONNAY 2012, CALIFORNIA ($18.95)

The wine actually comes in a square bottle, which is a bit disconcerting.

Straw colour with a green tint. Vanilla oak and stone fruit on the nose; full-bodied, sweet pineapple and ripe peach flavours. Mouth-filling, fleshy and broad on the palate. (TA)

ROSÉ 91 JOSEPH MELLOT LE RABAULT 2013, SANCERRE, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($24.65)

Salmon pink. More complexity on the nose than most rosés with blood orange, ripe banana skin and hints of caramel.

Balanced acidity, round and filling mid-palate gaining in richness into the medium-length finish. A very interesting rosé made of Pinot Noir that will match a wide variety of dishes, even red meat. (GBQc)

90 MIRVAL ROSÉ 2013, CÔTES DE PROVENCE, FRANCE ($22.95) A hefty price for a rosé, but then it’s Brad Pitt & Angelina Jolie’s wine. Very pale pink, almost flesh colour. The

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 57

NOTED ... nose is discreet and minerally; dry, well-structured with a lovely mouthfeel — flavours of redcurrant and yellow cherries fill the mouth. (TA)

87 BODEGA NORTON MALBEC ROSADO 2013, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA ($11) Lovely aromas of fresh raspberries, violets and a splash of cassis on the nose of this South American rosé. It’s juicy on the palate with lifted red fruits and good refreshing acidity.

Try with a simple plate of charcuterie or a terrine. (RV)

RED ARGENTINA 88 VINECOL BONARDA ORGANIC 2013, MENDOZA ($15.95)

Something different from Mendoza.

Dense ruby-purple with a nose of liquorice and mulberries; richly extracted, fleshy and chewy, dark chocolate and black-fruit flavours with evident alcohol. Serve with a nicely spiced dish. (TA)

91 KAIKEN ULTRA MALBEC 2012, MENDOZA ($19.95)

This is the best Ultra Malbec to date!

The saturated black/purple colour heralds a full-bodied wine that is racked, backed and stacked with plum, blackberry, fig, cocoa, smoke, violets, vanilla, earth and anise. The texture is lush with excellent length and well-integrated tannins. For the price, a multiple-bottle purchase is mandatory. (ES)

88 CHAKANA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, MENDOZA ($14)

Pretty good Cab for $14 with a nose of blackberry, campfire smoke, liquorice, spice, eucalypt and dark chocolate. It’s easy-drinking on the palate with blackberry and cassis fruit, toasted oak and liquorice notes, and some interesting dark-chocolate shavings. (RV)

AUSTRALIA 93 NUGAN ESTATE ALFREDO DRIED GRAPE SHIRAZ 2012, NEW SOUTH WALES ($27)

This is made in the Amarone style (drying of the grapes) and is thick, dark and bold on the nose with plum, kirsch, concentrated blackberry, smoke and spice aromas. It is highly structured on the palate with a juicy, bold core of dark fruits, melted dark chocolate, black liquorice and pepper. A fabulous take on traditional Shiraz, for lovers of bold and spicy wines. (RV)

88 NUGAN ESTATE ALFREDO SECOND PASS SHIRAZ 2012, NEW SOUTH WALES ($16)

This new series from Nugan utilizes Italian winemaking techniques to bring complexity and intensity to an already intense grape. After fermentation, this wine is passed through the pomace and yeast lees of the more concentrated Alfredo wine from Nugan. It’s rich and spicy on the nose with deep and meaty cherry, dried tobacco and peppery spices. The flavours on the palate range from maraschino cherry to black liquorice and cracked black pepper. It’s built on a frame of powerful tannins but balanced out by good acidity. (RV)

88 BULLETIN PLACE MERLOT 2010, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA ($20.17)

Clear medium-deep garnet. Medium-intensity cherry and raspberry scents open to black cherry with time in the glass.

On the palate, it is medium-bodied with pronounced acidity and lots of likeable cherry fruit. Noticeable alcohol proclaims “Australia!” Good accompaniment to a hearty beef stew. Drink up. (RL)*

CANADA 91 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES ST DAVID’S BENCH VINEYARD MERLOT 2012, NIAGARA ($30) This top-tier Merlot is only made in the

58 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

best vintages. It’s best to decant this if you plan on drinking it anytime soon. It has a lovely deep purple colour with a thick, rich nose of brambly red fruit, chocolate, cassis and toasty oak vanilla spices. There are generous tannins on the palate matched by rich, red fruits, anise, currants and swirling spices delivered on a long, long finish. (RV)

91 PONDVIEW WINERY BELLA TERRA CABERNET FRANC UNFILTERED 2012, FOUR MILE CREEK ($34.95)

Of all of Pondview’s top-tier reds, this is the one that is the most approachable. Cassis, tobacco, cocoa, vanilla, violets, green olive, coconut and spice all come to play in this impressive Franc. It is ripe, concentrated and with enough grip to allow it to age for another 6 to 7 years. (ES)

91 PONDVIEW WINERY BELLA TERRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON UNFILTERED 2012, FOUR MILE CREEK ($34.95)

Being a big fan of the 2010 version of this wine, I was hoping that the 2012 rendition would be just as glorious; well, it is!

Full-bodied yet elegant, this 14.3% alcohol wine doles out the blackberry, cassis, violets, raspberry, mocha, mint, roasted herbs and graphite qualities. The tannins are still forceful, so hold for 2 years and then drink until 2022. (ES)

91 PAINTED ROCK RED ICON 2011, OKANAGAN ($55) Excellent aromatics bring out floral, berries and herbal notes. Generous, mouth-filling flavours of blackcurrant, cassis, red and black fruits, framed by well-balanced polished tannins. Also features a dense mid-palate, full-bodied structure and warm, spicy finish. Enjoy with holiday roasts. (HH)

90 PAINTED ROCK MERLOT 2011, OKANAGAN ($40) Attractive, deep savoury, meaty aromas and flavours, with hints of thyme and

plum. An elegant palate with refined acidity and fine tannins. Finishes with notes of coffee and dried herbs. The cooler vintage highlights elegance, so not a fat, plush Merlot at all. Poised for grilled meats and vegetables. (HH)

in French, American, Russian and Hungarian oak barrels. So, there’s lots happening from smoke ‘n’ violet aromas to peppery, cassis flavours to sage ‘n’ cedar on a toasty finish. Begs for hearty stew. (HH)

90 BURROWING OWL MERITAGE 2011, OKANAGAN ($45)

88 SOUTHBROOK TRIOMPHE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE ($22.95)

Complex, fragrant aromas of blackcurrant, blueberry, tobacco and cedar. Compelling full-bodied palate of concentrated cassis, rich texture and plush tannins.

The long, smooth finish is brightened by blackberries, cocoa and Christmas spice.

Serve with simply roasted meats or fowl over the next 10 years. (HH)

89 TINHORN CREEK MERLOT 2012, OKANAGAN ($20)

A rich, attractive nose of cherry, spice, raspberry, anise and spice. It has bite on the palate with richer spices, a broad spectrum of red fruits, liquorice and earthy-meaty notes all delivered on a smooth finish. (RV)

89 KONZELMANN RESERVE MERLOT 2012, ONTARIO ($26.95)

One of the best wines to come from this Niagara winery. Dense purple in colour with a spicy blueberry and black-fruit nose supported by vanilla oak notes.

Full-bodied; floral, blueberry, sweet plum and chocolate flavours. Richly extracted and firm. (TA)

89 COYOTE’S RUN BLACK PAW VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2012, FOUR MILE CREEK ($29.95)

This is a seriously structured Pinot that requires a couple of years of bottle age so as to bring harmony.

Dark cherry, raspberry, plum, humus, potpourri, vanilla and chocolate make for a thoroughly complex wine. From 2016 to 2020. (ES)

89 BURROWING OWL ATHENE 2011, OKANAGAN ($38)

A late-ripening November. Seventh harvest of rich Syrah (55%) and structured Cabernet Sauvignon (45%) grapes. Aged

Cassis, raspberry, herbs, cocoa, vanilla, spice are on full display in this biodynamic wine. There is some residual sugar, and a few might find it too sweet, but for me, it combines with the tannins, acidity and moderate alcohol to produce a well-balanced wine. It should age well over the next 4 to 5 years. Check out the Oxtail in Red Wine Sauce recipe on page 27 for a good match. (ES)

88 COYOTE’S RUN RED PAW VINEYARD SYRAH 2012, FOUR MILE CREEK ($24.95)

Plum, violets, clove, root beer, pepper and vanilla waft out the glass and onto the taste buds. Supple tannins, fresh acidity and very good length make this a fine choice for rack of lamb or roasts. (ES)

87 BURROWING OWL MERLOT 2011, OKANAGAN ($30)

A complex cast of aromatic character: violets, black plum, vanilla and a whiff of smoked paprika. Lively acidity, lean texture and soft tannins support blackberry, cassis and wild-berry flavours.

Warm, chocolatey finish with lingering sage notes. Try with grilled portobello mushroom burgers. (HH)

86 BURROWING OWL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011, OKANAGAN ($35)

Fragrant with spicy tobacco, cinnamon, vanilla and blackcurrant aromas. Lean acidity and taut tannins carry some sage, black olive and red plum flavours.

Peppercorns and leather linger. The cool vintage encourages medium-term cellaring, so drink with grilled steaks before the end of this decade. (HH)

CHILE 90 CONCHA Y TORO MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, PUENTE ALTO ($20) From the Maipo Valley comes this polished Cabernet Sauvignon with ripe cassis, dark cherry, cocoa, menthol, spice, vanilla and dark olive qualities. Full-bodied; there are lots of velvety tannins, which makes me want to lay this wine down until the middle of 2015 and then drink until 2020. (ES)

88 CLOS DES FOUS CAUQUENINA 2011, MAULE VALLEY ($30)

Bright aromas of raspberry, redcurrant, cherry, blueberry and spice with firm structure, silky and lush tannins and a lively, fresh and balanced finish. Predominantly Carignan, Malbec and Syrah. Nice match with lamb. (GB)

87 CLOS DES FOUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011, ALTO CACHAPOAL ($25)

Fresh and elegant with redcurrant, floral and mineral notes backed by a lingering hint of red liquorice on the juicy, lengthy finish. (GB)

FRANCE 89 JEAN-PAUL BRUN MORGON ‘TERRES DORÉES’ 2012, BEAUJOLAIS ($32)

Fresh and generous with bright currant, plum and liquorice, a hint of earth, bright acidity and well-balanced tannins. Very versatile with a range of dishes from salmon to ham to beef tartare. (GB)

89 MARÉCHAL CHOREY-LESBEAUNE 2010, BURGUNDY ($34.25)

Bright medium ruby. Light strawberry, cinnamon and other spices; dry earth notes. Light to medium body; balance is leaning on acidity (typical for the vintage), but there is an adequate concentration of fruit for a lean style. Drink over the next 7 to 8 years. (GBQc) DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 59

NOTED ...

88 CODE SENSATION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012, PAYS D’OC IGP ($15.99)

Sound varietal nose shows blackcurrant, blackberry and a trace of green herb.

Rounded, pleasantly ripe dark fruit fills the mouth with blackberry in the foreground, backed up by blackcurrant with good tannic grip and a splash of milk chocolate on the finish. (SW)

88 IN VINO EROTICO RED 2010, COTEAUX DU LIBRON IGP ($18.99)

This blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is attractively perfumed with red and dark fruit scents, a light overlay of spice and a whiff of dry herb. Harmoniously integrated ripe berry and plum flavours come in a velvet-textured, well-balanced package supported by moderately firm tannic structure. (SW)

88 DOMAINE DE L’HORTUS GRAND CUVÉE PIC SAINT LOUP 2011, COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC ($50) Dark, rich and well balanced with beautiful cassis and cherry flavours, mineral notes; a touch smoky, loads of fruit, with hints of pepper and spice on the long finish. Perfect with earthy dishes and game. (GB)

87 CODE EMOTION MERLOT 2012, PAYS D’OC IGP ($15.99) This Merlot reveals concentrated dark plum and dark chocolate with dry tannic grip, good weight and acid balance in a well-integrated, velvettextured package. This calls for a chorizo pizza. (SW)

87 CHATEAU BELLEVUE LA FORÊT 2010, FRONTON AC ($17.99)

Made from Negrette, the emblematic grape of the Fronton Appellation, together with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, this is a ripe, warmly rounded, fruity and well-structured wine with some spicy and light chocolate character. Don’t be afraid to try something new in the kitchen. Maybe that paella you’ve always wanted to try. (SW)

ITALY 91 PRUNOTTO BARBARESCO 2011, PIEMONTE ($40)

89 TORMARESCA TRENTANGELI 2010, CASTEL DEL MONTE DOC ($20)

Light ruby with orange rim. The apparently “old” colour is normal for Nebbiolo, even at a young age. Cherry and dried fruits; hints of truffle, tobacco and spices. Firm and tender, the tannins are wrapped by the fruity extract. Full body, rich mid-palate. (GBQc)

It’s their first organic wine, made from rich Aglianico (70%), structured Cab Sauv (20%) and spicy Syrah (10%). The complex nose brings out floral, red berries, black pepper and smoky notes. The well-balanced mouthfeel evolves from its soft entry to a long, velvety finish. Woodfired pizza, please! (HH)

90 PRUNOTTO MOMPERTONE MONFERRATO ROSSO 2011, PIEMONTE ($20)

89 TENUTA DELLE TERRE NERE 2011, ETNA ROSSO DOC, SICILY ($26.99)

Medium ruby. Red and black fruits, liquorice. Medium-bodied, slightly firm tannins reinforced by the acidity. Good concentration into the firm finish. Already very good, it will improve over the next 3 to 5 years. Barbera with 40% Syrah. (GBQc)

90 DONNAFUGATA TANCREDI 2009, SICILIA ($30)

Very dark ruby. Rich nose of ripe red and black berries, smoky and spicy notes from the oak in a modern style.

Very soft, almost silky in the mouth with good concentration and a feeling of roundness. It turns a little astringent in the finish, but time should improve this. A blend of Cab Sauv with 35% Nero d’Avola and 5% Tannat. (GBQc)

90 TORMARESCA MASSERIA MAÌME 2010, SALENTO IGT ($34)

100% Negroamaro grapes from their Maìme estate near Brindisi, Puglia. Floral, herbal, leather, red berries and spice can be coaxed by the nose. The traditional style exemplifies vibrant acidity, dryyet-supple tannins and a trio of herbal, spicy and cherry flavours. Delicious with rich pasta dishes. (HH)

89 PRUNOTTO DOLCETTO D’ALBA 2012, PIEMONTE ($19.65)

Medium ruby. Cherry and other red fruits. Not more than medium-bodied, with a good balance between the fruit and the acidity supported by tender tannins. Nice fruity finish of good length.

Ready to drink. (GBQc)

60 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

Complex, developed red fruit with foreground piquant redcurrant and a pinch of spice on the nose opens the way for well-integrated red berry and currant-fruit in the mouth. Backed by solid tannic structure and a splash of dark chocolate on the dry, slightly tannic finish. Drinking well now but can age gracefully for another 5 to 7 years. (SW)

89 PRUNOTTO BAROLO 2009 PIEMONTE ($42.50)

More orange than red. Shy nose; elegant with its fruity notes and complexity.

Tight and firm on the palate, the tannins have a very fine grain, almost like powder.

Not very fruity, it may seem a bit austere.

Finish is balanced and powerful. (GBQc)

88 CANALETTO 2011, PRIMITIVO PUGLIA IGT ($12.99)

Robust, workmanlike wine with generous dark fruit, peppery spice and a touch of oak; solid tannic structure and balance.

Offers authentic regional and varietal character at a bargain price. (SW)

88 D’ALFONSO DEL SORDO GUADO SAN LEO UVA DI TROIA, APULIA ($17.95)

Here is a great-value, aged red! Uva di Troia (the grape of Troy) is an under-the-radar varietal from the province of Apulia, in Southern Italy. Dark cherry, plum, vanilla, raisins, dried tomato, herbs and cinnamon make for a complex, medium-bodied red. There has very good length, a tannic edge and fresh acid. (ES)

88 VALLONE VERETO SALICE SALENTINO ROSSO 2010, APULIA ($17.95)

This 100% Negroamaro grape is a medium-bodied offering that reveals plum, dried cherries, raisins, leather, violets, earth and cocoa. On the palate, it is ripe, but not heavy, with some juiciness giving lift. The tannins show a dusty edge, so pair with braised veal or confit de canard. (ES)

88 TORMARESCA NEPRICA 2011, PUGLIA IGT ($22)

The proprietary nickname reflects its blend of red grapes: Negroamaro, Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon. Vinified and aged in stainless steel, so no spicy oak influence. Wild berries and earthy leather aromas. Soft texture with light, dry tannins and lingering prune, cocoa and espresso. Very food-friendly. (HH)

87 MARCHESE DELLA TORRE MERLOT 2012, TERRE SICILIANA IGT ($10.99)

Good Merlot varietal character with earthy plum and light herbal scents shifting to ripe dark plum, cherry and blackberry in the mouth. Finishes with a lick of dark chocolate and firm tannic dryness. (SW)

87 RICOSSA 2011, BARBERA D’ASTI DOC ($13.49)

A characterful, typically appetizing Piedmont Barbera showing mouth-filling varietal dark plum and bitter black-cherry flavours backed by prominent acidity and a very dry finish. (SW)

87 GEOGRAFICO CHIANTI 2011 ($13.83)

Clear medium-deep cherry red. Medium-intensity nose of cherries and violets with a bit of leather and spice. Light-bodied with raspberry and cranberry flavours and enough tannins to provide interest.

Drink up. (RL)*

86 CARPINETO CASTALDO 2012, CHIANTI DOCG ($16.49)

A medium-weight Sangiovese-led Chianti with red and dark fruit, firm, dry tannins

and still-prominent acidity. Could use a year or 2 additional aging. (SW)

minimal tannins. An unpretentious quaffing wine; drink now. (RL)*

85 OTTO VIGNETI VARVAGLIONE VIGNEVINI ROSSO 2012, PUGLIA IGP ($9.99)

SPAIN

PORTUGAL

The grapes come from 60-year-old Mencia bush-vines. Such a lovely nose of crushed raspberries, black cherry, fudge, red liquorice and vanilla-oak stylings. It’s full-bodied and dark in colour with rich, heady flavours of liquorice-tinged red fruits, loam and spice that comes at you in layers. All that and a smooth delivery through the finish. (RV)

Red berry flavours with a touch of spice and a splash of milk chocolate, lightly firm tannic grip and balanced acidity.

Easy-drinking, unpretentious wine with decent depth of fruit and structure. (SW)

89 QUINTA DA BARREIRA TAURUS 2011, ALENTEJANO ($13.17)

Clear medium-deep plum red. Nose of raspberries with mint and tea overtones.

Medium-bodied with sour-cherry flavours. A rustic wine but well-balanced, to be served with hearty food. Drink up. (RL)*

88 VALE DO BOMFIM TINTO 2009, DOURO ($20)

Features classic red Douro grapes: Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cão. Herbal and black-fruit aromatics strike boldly on both nose and full-bodied palate. Lively mouthfeel, well-balanced tannins and peppery finish complete the bill. Primed for marinated red meats. (HH)

SOUTH AFRICA 90 WARWICK THE FIRST LADY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2011 ($14.67)

Includes a bit of Shiraz. Clear medium-deep garnet. Nose of cassis with smoke and spice from the oak aging.

Medium-bodied with lots of fruit, particularly raspberry and blackcurrant. Will improve for another year or 2. (RL)*

84 BONNIEVALE RIGGTON RED 2012, ROBERTSON ($12)

A Shiraz/Merlot blend. Medium-deep plum red. Light nose of cherry, spice and dust. Light-bodied with red berry flavours, good acidity, high alcohol and

93 DOMINIO DE TARES CEPAS VIEJAS MENCIA 2009, EL BIERZO ($30)

UNITED STATES 89 CA’MOMI ZINFANDEL 2012, NAPA VALLEY ($19.95)

The 2012 vintage of this wine is a wellpriced, textbook example, loaded with jam: raspberry, blackberry, cherry and blueberry. Raisins, pepper, earth and vanilla add complexity to the mix. Very good length and soft tannins assure immediate accessibility. Pair with braised meats or dry-rubbed ribs. (ES)

88 COLUMBIA WINERY COMPOSITION RED BLEND NV, WASHINGTON STATE ($19.95)

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot from the 2010 and 2011 vintages. Dense ruby colour with a bouquet of red berries and cedar; medium-bodied, dry with flavours of dark chocolate and mulberries, finishing with firm tannins. (TA)

88 VAL D’OR THE CLEAVER RED BLEND 2011, CALIFORNIA ($38)

Bold and ripe, yet not overdone, with cherry, smoky cracked pepper and layered wild blackberry, mocha and liquorice flavours; firm, fruit-laden tannins and a bold finish. The label says “a must for meat” and I would not disagree. A blend of Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah. (GB) DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 61

DESSERT WINE 94 DONNAFUGATA BEN RYÉ 2010, PASSITO DI PANTELLERIA, SICILY, ITALY ($32)

Amber colour. Made from Zibbido, the local name of Muscat d’Alexandrie. Perfumed with notes of passion fruit and bitter orange. Voluptous on the palate; very sweet yet balanced by the acidity that brings a pleasant freshness and lightness.

Neverending finish. Sweet! (GBQc)

PIO CESARE MOSCATO D’ASTI 2012, PIEDMONT, ITALY ($24)

A light sparkling dessert wine without the cloying sugar of its cousin, Asti Spumante. Great balance on the nose with a light touch of citrus and floral notes in the back palate. The sweetness carries forward for a medium finish. Wonderful with a light sponge or pineaple upside down cake. Can also be enjoyed for brunch with a light vegetable quiche. See page 46 for more recipes. (JS)

SPIRITS LAURIAC COGNAC VS FINE CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE ($37)

Deep amber. Intense nose of honey, vanilla from oak aging, preserved figs, peach jam and prunes. Alcohol a little hot on the palate, but pleasant flavours of honey and caramel. (RL)*

SAUVIS BAS-ARMAGNAC XO, FRANCE ($63.67)

Organically produced. Pale copper colour.

Pronounced nose of banana, butterscotch, apricot and apple. Smooth, velvety and fruity on the palate; reminiscent of prunes, with a slight nutty bitterness on a long finish. (RL)*

BRUGAL ESPECIAL EXTRA DRY 40%, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC ($27.95)

Double distillation combined with extra

aging in selected white-oak casks produces exceptional smoothness in this refined white rum. Nose unfolds vanilla, banana and subtle oak with pleasant spirit overtones. Pure and clean in the mouth, it has a lively dry-spirit bite on the finish. A great base for cocktails but can be drunk on the rocks by itself. (SW)

BRUGAL AÑEJO SUPERIOR 40%, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC ($27.95)

A polished, double-distilled, barrelaged amber rum with sugarcane fruitiness, cinnamon-led spiciness and fine oak. Banana, vanilla and cinnamon notes on mid-palate shift to citrus and surprisingly dry, oaky grip on the finish. Fine value. Try with a light sugary treat. (SW)

BRUGAL 1888 EDICION LIMITADA RON GRAN RESERVA FAMILIAR 2011 40%, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC ($69.95)

The 2011 vintage release of Brugal’s high-end rum brings great complexity and refinement on the nose with layers of rich spice, dried citrus and refined oak. Richly rounded and unctuously smooth on the palate with multiple spices, dried fruits and fine oak playing throughout. Elegant oak, fruit and spice linger on the agreeable spirity finish.

Ideal to drink from a snifter after dinner in front of an open fire. (SW)

BEER BRASSERIE DE ROCHEFORT 10, BELGIUM ($4.30/330 ML)

Like the jump is to figure skating, the quadruple is the biggest and boldest of the Belgian-ale styles, and Rochefort 10 is a stunning example of the style. This deep brown brew has a honey-like consistency and a boatload of flavours — biscuit, booze, blackcurrants, banana, chocolate, cinnamon and nutmeg — which coat the mouth long after the last sip. Drink on its own instead of dessert, or try it with a strong blue cheese. (CL)

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UNIBROUE 17, QUEBEC ($9.99)

First brewed in 2007 to celebrate Unibroue’s 17th anniversary, these days beer lovers stock up on its annual release (in late November) because of its big flavour and easy drinkability. With notes of dried cherries, chocolate, molasses and citrus, rounded out with vanilla from barrel aging, this is a Belgian-style strong ale at its finest. Sip now or lay down for a few years to let the flavours mellow and mature. Perfect pairing: Christmas cake, roast beef. (CL)

GARRISON BREWING COMPANY OL’ FOG BURNER, NOVA SCOTIA ($6.99/500 ML)

Thanks to a hefty addition of citrusy hops, this ruby-red ale starts out with a cherry-brandy-and-dark-caramel sweetness but finishes with a pine bitterness, making it a favourite barley wine for hopheads. Like other barley wines, it’s got a lush, silky mouthfeel and low carbonation. Outstanding with foie gras. (CL)

KING BREWERY DARK LAGER, ONTARIO ($12.95/6-PK)

This is the ultimate winter hot-tub beer — it’s dry and thirst-quenching, with a subtle nutty and chocolate backbone thanks to the roasted malts.

Plus, at 5% ABV, you can have a few and exit the tub with dignity, free of the fear of doing a snow faceplant in your swimmers. When it comes to food, you can use the lager as a base for a hearty winter stew. (CL)

ALLEY KAT BREWING COMPANY OLDE DEUTERONOMY, ALBERTA ($5/341 ML)

A long-time favourite among beer nerds, this Edmonton ale is like a boozy Christmas cake — fig, raisin, plum and port with hints of tobacco and vanilla.

Its alcohol warmth lasts long after the last sip — buy the 2015 vintage at the brewery or select liquor stores in Alberta and toast to the craft brewer’s 20th anniversary. Suggested food pairings: fruit cake; walnuts and brie. (CL)

WELL NOTED ...

90 QUINTA DO CRASTO TINTO 2011, DOURO, PORTUGAL ($20)

This rich, full-bodied, flavourful blend (Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional) represents perennially stellar value. Fragrant violet nose, intense blackberry flavour, lively mouthfeel and lingering chocolate on the finish. Offers pleasure as a sipper and as a pairing partner for roast meats. (HH)

LE TROU DU DIABLE LA GRIVOISE DE NOËL, QUEBEC ($10/600 ML)

93 MOUNT VERNON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND ($13.58)

This Christmas-themed brew is worth celebrating all winter long. The winner of multiple gold medals at the World Beer Awards from 2010 to 2013, this creamy Belgian-style brew tastes of ripe peaches, blackcurrant, caramel and candy apple with warming spices and snappy hops gathering into a zippy finish. (CL)

90 NORMAN HARDIE COUNTY CABERNET FRANC 2012, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY, ONTARIO ($36) Elegant, crisply defined and fresh with black cherry and currant fruit intertwined with savoury herbs, earth and mineral, which contributes to this wine’s immense drinkability. A very pretty wine. (GB)

90 WOLF BLASS GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY 2013, ADELAIDE HILLS, AUSTRALIA ($24.95)

This is a superb follow-up to the delicious 2012. Refined and complex, this Chardonnay exudes peach, pineapple, banana, red apple, honey, toast, cream, white flowers and minerals. The finish is long and the fresh acidity provides balance and definition. Lobster and crab with drawn butter were made for this beauty. (ES)

90 CHÂTEAU DE TREVIAC CORBIÈRES 2011, LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON, FRANCE ($18)

This blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache displays cassis, currants, lavender, sweet cherry and blueberry fruits on the nose. It’s pure and fruity on the palate with rich, ripe blackcurrants, floral notes and a touch of anise. A gorgeous drop right through the finish. (RV)

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on steroids. Pale silver-yellow colour disguises the strength of aromas and flavours to come. Powerful nose of gooseberry jam and resin on a ripe apple. Pungent flavours of gooseberry and lemon, civilized somewhat by floral aromas. Medium-bodied with excellent acidity. Drink wellchilled and soon. Great value. (RL)*

90 BARON DE HOEN RÉSERVE GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2012, ALSACE, FRANCE ($17.95) Amazing value here. Very pale in colour with an intense bouquet of rosewater and lychees; medium-bodied, dry, elegant and highly perfumed with flavours of Turkish delight, cardamom and orange. (TA)

90 PRUNOTTO OCCHETTI NEBBIOLO D’ALBA 2011, PIEMONTE, ITALY ($25.70)

Light ruby with orange rim. Nose is showing signs of an evolved wine with kirsch, light tobacco, floral notes and only a kiss of oak. Overall, it has noticeable finesse.

Great palate, firm and tight but not hard in any way, a serious wine reminiscent of a fine, approachable Barolo. (GBQc)

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 63

DAVINE BY GURVINDER BHATIA ...

A GOOD TONIC Is gin the new vodka? To be honest, I was never a fan of the vodka craze, which was centred around the artificially flavoured bacon, marshmallow and cotton-candy spirits from the mega producers. A good clean vodka definitely has its place, as do some of the naturally flavoured vodkas from craft producers such as Domaine Charbay.

Gin, though, has a certain elegance and refinement about it. From its early medicinal beginnings, it evolved to a purer spirit in the 19th century with the creation of London Dry Gin. Appropriately, President Franklin Roosevelt celebrated the end of prohibition in the US with a martini (gin, of course.

The use of any other spirit is not a true martini). Arguably, there seems to be a perception of gin as more natural, with its flavours resulting from the distillation process as opposed to the addition of artificial flavours.

Whether this is true or not, I have always been an admirer of well-crafted gin (I have an affinity for desert-dry martinis and G&Ts, but only with quality tonic such as Fentiman’s or Fever-Tree). While the spirit seemed to be out of favour a decade ago, the trend has definitely reversed. The premium gin market appears to be on the rise with the growing popularity in restaurants, bars and retail stores of the likes of Hendrick’s, St George Spirits and domestically produced Victoria Gin. The timing of several deliciously unique craft gins entering the market seems to parallel the growing craft and local movement. Regardless of what is driving the renaissance, consumers are the beneficiaries.

01 The Botanist senior stillman “The Budgie” working with the Lomond still; 02 Geoff Dillon from Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers; 03 St George Spirits master distiller Lance Winters

ST GEORGE SPIRITS DRY RYE GIN, CALIFORNIA ($48) Intriguing aromas and flavours as a result of pot-stilled rye being used as a base for this anything-but-regular gin. Structured and spicy with citrus, caraway, black pepper, ginger and star anise that enhance the natural character of the juniper berries. Perfect on its own, or in any cocktail that you would normally use with rye whiskey. Also makes a killer Negroni.

DILLON’S UNFILTERED GIN 22, ONTARIO ($46) Smooth, flavourful and floral with a clean elegance using local Niagara grape as its base. You don’t want to muddle its purity with the addition of too much, but a little soda and twist of lemon or lime would make a great refreshing summer cocktail (or crank the heat up in your living room and imagine it’s summer).

VICTORIA GIN, BC ($48)

Hugely aromatic; smells like a Christmas tree and for good reason. They actually distilled a Douglas fir tree along with sage and infused aromas of juniper berries, bay laurel leaves and roasted coriander to create a unique, entrancing woodsy spirit with a hint of citrus that is clean and expressive. Perfect in a dry martini on the rocks with fresh herbs, or with some muddled fresh berries by the pool.

Perhaps Canada’s first small-batch premium gin, Victoria Gin has been making waves since its release several years ago at the Fairmont Empress in, where else, Victoria. The gin was only available in BC until its relatively recent introduction to Ontario, and the distillery is now releasing the delicious spirit across the country. And it’s about time, as “bootlegged” bottles had shown up in Victoria Gin–dry provinces to tempt spirit lovers. The beauty of this spirit is its complex-yet-delicate flavours of juniper, coriander, citrus, liquorice and other nuances that will appeal to the hard-core gin lover, yet it’s approachable enough for the martini novice.

ST GEORGE SPIRITS BOTANIVORE GIN, CALIFORNIA ($48)

VICTORIA OAKEN GIN, BC ($56)

Fresh, clean and complex yet elegant with aromas and flavours of juniper, coriander, dill, ginger, cilantro, citrus peel, black pepper, cardamom and so much more; well integrated and herbaceous. With a little Fentiman’s Tonic and twist of lime, a great G&T. Sunshine in your glass.

Victoria Gin that’s been aged in American oak barrels, which gives it an amber hue and notes of citrus peel, vanilla and caramel. The floral quality is muted, but the spirit picks up a body and texture suitable to give traditional whiskey-based cocktails an intriguing twist.

ST GEORGE SPIRITS TERROIR GIN, CALIFORNIA ($48)

64 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

02

01 UNGAVA GIN, QUEBEC ($38) Created by cider producer Domaine Pinnacle, Ungava is crafted from botanicals found in Northern Quebec’s Ungava Peninsula, including wild rosehips, cloudberry, Labrador tea, crowberry and Nordic juniper. The colour is naturally yellow-tinged from the plants and berries, the aroma is floral and spicy with a smooth, full-bodied texture, with flavours of tart fruit, spice, fresh herbs and a rich, clean smooth finish.

HENDRICK’S GIN, SCOTLAND ($48) Quite fresh and unique as it is infused with rose petals and cucumber in addition to the traditional botanicals. The apothecary-styled bottle is a tip-of-the-hat to gin’s medicinal origins, but the flavour is anything but. Beautifully fresh and refreshing, the cucumber adds a dangerous quaffable quality in collaboration with the citrus and juniper. Ultra smooth and clean with a long finish. Hard not to be a fan.

THE BOTANIST, SCOTLAND ($55) From Islay scotch producer Bruichladdich comes this rich and luxurious gin created using a multitude of botanicals, many of which are found on the island. Aromas and flavours of citrus, citrus peel, mint and spice box; loads of complexity, fresh and floral, with a long, rich, warming finish. ×

03 DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 × QUENCH.ME × 65

AFTER TASTE BY TONY ASPLER ...

What’s your poison?

SPOILER ALERT. This column is not for the squeamish. It’s about the weirdest alcoholic beverages on the planet. Are you bored with Chardonnay? Fed up with Cabernet? Is your palate so jaded you’re looking for an extreme taste experience?

Well, here are some drinks you won’t find in your local liquor store.

Spruce Beer: made with the tender shoots of spruce fir trees instead of hops. A favourite tipple of the underclasses in 18th-century Lower Canada and prepared on the ships of Captain Cook’s sea voyages to protect his crew against scurvy. No doubt, the Retsina of beers.

Spruce Wine: the trees are tapped in mid-March like maples and the sap is collected, heated with sugar, yeast and lemons and left to ferment for five days. Winemakers in Sweden swear it has the flavour of “citrus, some sourdough bread and nuts, with a long, slightly nutty balanced aftertaste of forest, fungus, herbs and apples.” Serve with pine nuts.

66 × @QUENCH_MAG × DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

Snake Wine: When I was in China last year, I saw many bottles of wine with whole snakes coiled inside. First documented in the Western Zhou Dynasty (1046-771 BCE), this disturbing beverage, infused with snakes or sometimes scorpions, was believed to reinvigorate the sick, according to traditional Chinese medicine. The snakes, I was told, were poisonous, but then the alcohol kills all germs and renders the snake venom harmless. However, a case was recently reported of a woman in northern China who was hospitalized when a hardy snake that had survived its preservation in rice wine slithered out of the bottle and bit her hand.

Thai Whiskey: Distilled from rice, the spirit is then put in a large clay pot and infused with reindeer antlers, ginseng roots and other medicinal herbs. Reindeer antlers are believed to make men more potent. Those who have tried it say its taste has a “rich earthy finish with a woody aroma,” and a slight “sweet taste with a hint of liquorice.”

Then there is a rice wine-based concoction called, in Cantonese, Tezhi Sanbian Jiu. The English translation is roughly “Three-Penis Liquor.” If you want to make this at home, take one seal penis, one deer penis and one dog penis, and brew with rice wine. Or, if your local market is out of these ingredients, try the Carrefour supermarket in Shanghai. Apparently, it’s more effective than Cialis.

Mice Wine: In rural Korea, they make a health tonic by fermenting two- or three-day-old mice in rice wine. They are left to infuse for a year before consuming. The resulting beverage, apparently good for asthma, is said to taste rather like gasoline — which speaks to aged Riesling in my book.

Seagull Wine: The Inuit invented this remarkable beverage.

Take a dead seagull, put it in a bottle, fill the bottle with water and leave in the sun till the seagull is fermented. A courageous (or crazy) journalist, Suzanne Donahue, who tried it, described it in these terms: “If you opened up a Toyota’s carburetor and drank the leftover fluid from inside, that would be pretty close. It goes down hard and settles in even worse. But I must say, it sure gets people inebriated in a hurry. And the next day’s hangover is nothing short of spectacular. You’ll feel like you’ve been repeatedly beaten over the head by a giant ... well, seagull.”

And finally there’s the Yukon’s Sourtoe Cocktail, signature drink of the Downtown Hotel in Dawson City — an actual wizened human toe in a glass of Yukon Jack whisky. In order to join the Sourtoe Cocktail Club, you have to ensure when you drink it that the toe touches your lips. If you inadvertently swallow the toe there’s a $2,500 fine. But you do get a certificate.

Now, don’t you feel like you could go for a cool, crisp glass of Sauvignon Blanc — free of animal or human infusions? × ILLUSTRATION: FRANCESCO GALLÉ, WWW.FRANCESCOGALLE.COM

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