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Edition 144 quepasa.gt

Your guide to Antigua Guatemala and beyond

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One of the latest openings in Antigua is the impressive El Ángelus. Encompassing Woodstudio, and Tiovivo it’s the brainchild of Carlos Woods. Originally from Guatemala City, Carlos Woods is a third-generation antiquarian whose family emigrated from England. At Woodstudio, you’ll find antiques from every part of the world focusing on Guatemalan colonial pieces as well as some striking contemporary art. When asked to describe his collection, Carlos takes time to consider, then replies ‘eclectic’. Incredibly, the whole collection has been curated by Carlos over the past forty years; he was just seventeen when his life as an antiquarian began. As a recognised interior designer, Carlos has transformed many

houses in both Guatemala City and Antigua. To fully appreciate the collection, take time and relax at Tiovivio his enchanting coffee and tea café. Carlos named the café Tiovivo (carousel in English) in honour of the 19th-century carousel that takes pride of place in the garden. It’s a lovely space to relax, listen to light jazz, be surrounded by one of Guatemala’s most eclectic art collections of which every item is for sale to the discerning collector. And do check out the Imperial Suite, featuring some of Carlos Woods’ colonial and contemporary pieces which can be found on Airbnb.

7a Calle Poniente #37, and 4a Calle Oriente #24, Antigua, Guatemala 4123-8079 cw.woodstudio@gmail.com tiovivoantiguagt

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Finally, for the discerning collector, visit by appointment only, the art gallery, located on 4th Calle Oriente #24.

Our Luxury Airbnb Apartments

To arrange a viewing contact Scott Stanton +502 5364 3432

scottquepasa@gmail.com

SCAN ME for details on all of our properties.

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If you’re looking for a turnkey investment property, rentable through Airbnb, and walkable to the centre of Antigua, then this stylish 3-bedroom house could well be perfect for you. The property has a multi-year operating history as a short-term rental with consistently strong guest ratings and above-market occupancy for the sector. Furnished, equipped, and cash flowing. A buyer takes over an operating business with no setup delay. Price $450,000 1055/1056/1057

See more of our properties on pages 22 and 105

For those seeking a green, leafy setting in which to raise your family, these three newly built homes are well worth considering. Located in Antigua Gardens, a former coffee finca, the development offers a range of amenities, including a semi-Olympic swimming pool, tennis courts and a clubhouse. With a choice of three and five-bedroom homes, these attractively priced properties are ready to be viewed. From $295,000 10

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Letter from the Publisher After almost twenty years of Qué Pasa, I still find myself discovering new reasons to love Antigua. Perhaps that’s what makes this city so special: no matter how long you’ve lived here, there always seems to be another story to tell, another corner to explore, or another character to meet. This issue celebrates that spirit of discovery, with plenty of ideas for visitors — and perhaps a few surprises for those of us who call Antigua home. It was Abel Murga, General Manager of Hotel Camino Real Antigua, who gave me the idea for writing a piece about what to do in Antigua if you have only one day in this majestic city. So, head to page 18 for “Antigua on Foot: Ten Places to Discover in a Day.” And, if only I’d had room to mention the other ninety…. Over the past few years, hiking Acatenango Volcano has become a mustdo. Hundreds of people trek its trails every day for a glimpse of the spectacular Fuego Volcano show. Some locals feel that Acatenango has become a victim of its own success, with growing amounts of rubbish and permanent cabins altering its once-pristine landscape. Max Baldetti loves hiking Acatenango and understands this complexity. Read his engrossing Acatenango love story on page 26.

A trip to Antigua’s market should be on every visitor’s to-do list. Turn to page 36 and let Annie Vanderboom de Estrada be your guide. And here’s your chance to try her wickedly good Panza Verde guacamole recipe. Guatemalans are passionate about football, and watching Antigua GFC play at home could be a highlight of anyone’s trip. Turn to “A Day at the Stadium” on page 43 to get in the mood! For lovers of street food, biting into a shuco could well be another Guatemalan highlight. Guatemalan traditional-food champion Sofia Letona sings its praises on page 60. On page 85, in “The Magic of Santa Clara Church and Convent”, Elizabeth Bell, founder of Antigua Tours, explains why it is one of Antigua’s most historic gems — as well as a premier wedding venue.

foundation carrying out vital work here in Guatemala. This issue, we highlight Asociación SERniña, which works at the heart of emancipatory education and social justice. Sofia Letona explains more on page 105. Alongside this wide range of articles, you’ll discover new restaurants, old favourites, bars, live music and plenty of shopping ideas throughout these pages. And finally, if you need a little more Qué Pasa, just scan the QR code. You’ll find hundreds of articles about Antigua, going back almost twenty years — and there’s always something new to discover.

Fancy speaking Spanish like a Guatemalan? Then you’ll need to master a few “Chapinisms”. Part 2 of “Chapin for Dummies” by Julissa Carrillo appears on page 91. Part 1 is available online at quepasa.gt. As in every issue, Qué Pasa dedicates two pages to an NGO or

Visit our instagram page! @que_pasa_mag

Cover Photo by Max Baldetti

in this issue 15

experiences Guate a Mano ��16 Antigua On Foot ��18 Mango Volcano: Thirty Years on Acatenango ��26 Kaldi & Kapra ��34 A Walk Through Antigua’s Market ��36 Cerro San Cristóbal ��41 A Day at the Stadium ��43

restaurants & cafés Hacienda Real ��48

Aqua ��62

Hector’s Bistro ��50

Y Tú Piña También ��63

Libra ��51

Café Condesa ��64

Fridas ��52

Escalonia ��66

La Familia ��53

Masil / Anche ��67

El Cazador Italiano ��54

Bru’d ��69

Thai Wow ��56

Harvest ��71

Panza Verde ��57 Ni Fu Ni Fa ��58

bars & nightlife Hacienda Real

Live in Antigua ��74 / 76 Happy Hour ��80 Antigua’s Soundtrack

14 12

Shucos ��60

culture, art & shopping The Magic of Santa Clara Church and Convent �� 84 Wakami �� 87 Utopia �� 89 Chapin for Dumies: A Quick Guide part 2 �� 91 La Nueva Fábrica �� 95

Grupo Qué Pasa Scott Stanton Publisher +502 5364 3432 scottquepasa@gmail.com quepasa.gt quepasaguatemala que_pasa_mag

Semana Santa in Antigua

well being & education Ser Niña: Empowering a New Generation ��101

Qué Pasa Edition 144 Sep-Dec 2026

Thanks to: Julissa Carrillo Gustavo Estrada Elizabeth Bell Sofia Letona Annie Vanderboom Cover by: Max Baldetti

La Familia

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erties to Make Matching Clients and Prop Dreams Come True! To arrange a viewing contact Scott Stanton +502 5364 3432

scottquepasa@gmail.com

SCAN ME for details on all of our properties.

See more of our properties on pages 10 and 105

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4-bedroom newly built home in Valle de Conquistador. Stylish new-build 4-bedroom home occupying a corner lot in Valle de Conquistador, a tranquil gated community in San Bartolomé Becerra. Conveniently located within walking distance of Telares and Antigua’s historic centre. $660,000

Set within the leafy Antigua Gardens gated community, this spacious 4-bedroom home occupies a double lot with a garden and is sold partially furnished. With a range of outdoor amenities on offer, it makes an ideal family home. $435,000

A beautiful hacienda-style hideaway set on almost 50,000 sq ft in a peaceful location just 20 minutes from Antigua. Offering privacy, space and a wonderful sense of escape, this substantial property would make a superb family home — or could be transformed into a turnkey boutique retreat. $1,495,000

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Impressive 6-bedroom residence with heated pool. Sriking 6-bedroom residence featuring a heated swimming pool and private gym, set within a gated community just 15 minutes from the centre of Antigua. An excellent choice for those looking for space, comfort and modern amenities within easy reach of the city. $995,000

Featuring a wonderful roof terrace with spectacular volcano views, this charming 4-bedroom home is located in the popular Antigua Gardens gated community, with an impressive range of family-friendly amenities. An attractive opportunity at this price. $290,000

A central Antigua investment opportunity Less than five blocks from Antigua’s Central Park, this 4-bedroom house offers an exciting investment opportunity. Potential to remodel the existing home or convert it into rental units, it offers flexibility in one of Antigua’s most sought-after locations. $750,000

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Spacious apartment with private patio. A spacious, well-maintained 2-bedroom apartment in the ever-popular Cortijo de las Flores gated community. With its private patio and comfortable layout, this is an appealing option for those looking for a peaceful home close to Antigua’s attractions.

Charming home in San Cristóbal El Bajo Located in the attractive area of San Cristóbal El Bajo, just outside Antigua, this delightful 3-bedroom home features a lovely terrace and offers a peaceful setting close to the city.

$345,000

$590,000

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Peaceful retreat with plenty of potential If peace and tranquillity are high on your wish list, this 5-bedroom home near El Hato could be just what you’re looking for. Set on a lot of almost 2,000 m², the property offers generous space and would make an ideal family home, retreat or venue for workshops. $625,000

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The Mango Volcano:

Thirty Years on Acatenango

It was the full moon of 1996 when I climbed Acatenango for the first time. I was twelve years old, freshly back from the United States, and this was my way of reconnecting with the country I’d left behind. I had no idea what the day had in store. My name is Max Baldetti. I’m forty-two now, and that first climb, at twelve, was the start of everything. Rafting came two years later. Since then, I’ve built my life around the outdoors — I’m an outdoor sports instructor, certified across hiking, canyoning, rafting, and river boarding, and I also work as a helicopter search and rescue technician. Everything I’ve trained in, I eventually realized, was really training for one thing: the ability to give back. I woke up, packed my gear — though back then, “gear” meant a duffle bag with worn-out straps and a pair of Doctor Martens. I didn’t have the right clothing. I didn’t even know I needed it. I loaded my bag with water and whatever equipment we had and made my way across the valley to

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a small village called Concepción — the same place where, today, four-by-fours now gather to take climbers up the mountain.

“I remember reaching that first summit and feeling like my body had exploded into pieces and been rebuilt from scratch. I knew, right then, this was what I’d do with my life.”

I didn’t know what to expect. All I’d been told was that it would be a three-day, two-night hike. We moved through mountains, hills, forest, jungle — there was no real trail. Trees were our guide: you’d climb until you spotted a certain huge tree, and that told you to turn left. Find another, turn right. And so on. By the time we reached our first campsite — a spot now known as La Meseta — the sun was already setting. We’d started at seven in the morning and arrived around four in the afternoon: two hours of climbing that felt endless, bushwhacking the entire way. We were covered in mud, dust, and sweat. There, on a small patch of flatland, we built camp and cooked. Wild rabbits moved through the brush nearby. Not far off was the main campsite, but we skipped it — too crowded, even if “crowded” meant two other people. We liked our space. The next morning, we were up at four, breaking camp before sunrise. Then we hiked. And hiked. And hiked. This still wasn’t the highlight — this was just the push from camp one to camp two, up through a stretch called Conejo, then Las Marías, toward what we called Yepocapa, the

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smaller summit of Acatenango. We arrived around three in the afternoon, just enough time to set up before dark. There was a small refugio there, built by an association of climbers — real climbers — and we made camp knowing the real highlight was still ahead. We woke at three the next morning and hiked through a stretch known as La Maldita, up to the highest point: 3,976 meters above sea level. And there it was — the volcano’s show. That was 1996. Thirty years ago, now. Climbing Acatenango recently, all of it came rushing back. Today, Camp 180 — my tour company — runs private trips up that same mountain. We try to preserve some of what made that first climb what it was, even though the trails have changed and access is far easier now. The magic is still there. You still set up camp, still watch the sunrise from that ridge. The difference is you no longer have to carry and cook everything yourself — we handle that now, and honestly, that’s part of what we love doing. But we’re far from the only ones. Dozens of companies run this route today, and I understand why. The mountain still has its pull.

“The next morning, we were up at four, breaking camp before sunrise. Then we hiked. And hiked. And hiked.”

I remember reaching that first summit and feeling like my body had exploded into pieces and been

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“We moved through mountains, hills, forest, jungle — there was no real trail. Trees were our guide”

rebuilt from scratch. I knew, right then, this was what I’d do with my life. I’ve climbed Acatenango more times than I can count — I stopped keeping track after 250. There was a year I climbed it every single week, just to know what it felt like in every season, every kind of weather, every mood the mountain could throw at me. I understand why people want this. People need this — the chance to go back to nature, to reconnect with themselves, to remember where they come from and figure out where they’re going. But the volcano is alive, and it needs to be treated that way. Everything shifted after the year 2000, and shifted again, more sharply, after COVID. On high season now, at least 300 people are trying to reach the summit at once — it’s genuinely hard to find space up there. More campsites have appeared to meet the demand, which is, in its way, a good thing. But it raises real questions: what’s happening to the trash? To the waste this many bodies leave behind? New rules are starting to appear, and the people who run tours are trying to figure out, together, how to make this work — not just for business, but for the mountain itself. Guatemala’s tourism institute is trying to bring operators together. CONAP, the country’s protected-areas authority, is setting new limits, because the volcano’s capacity is real, and we’re close to testing it. It’s easy to take

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a place like this for granted when it’s always been there. But it’s on us now — the people who climb it, guide it, love it — to figure out how this stays both an unforgettable experience and a sustainable one. Tourism itself has moved through phases here. First, it was adventure tourism. Then it tipped into extreme — until people pulled back toward something more grounded. Then came sustainable tourism. Now the word everyone’s reaching for is regenerative. And that, to me, is the real question for Acatenango’s next thirty years: not just how we protect what’s left, but how a climb like this can give something back — to the people who make it, and to the mountain that’s carried all of us up.

Written by Max Baldetti

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Plaza del Arco, 5a Avenida Norte 31, Antigua Guatemala +502 3032-7907 camp180store

Max Baldetti, owner of Camp 180, specialises in private, personalised tours to Acatenango and destinations throughout Central America. With a focus on creating memorable outdoor experiences, Camp 180 offers visitors the opportunity to explore some of the region’s most spectacular landscapes with expert local guidance. Max has also recently opened an outdoor store on 5th Avenue North, just a short walk from the Arch. The store offers a wide selection of quality gear and equipment for hiking, camping and other outdoor adventures—whether you're preparing for an Acatenango climb or planning your next Central American expedition.

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·chaos and beauty·

A Walk Through Antigua’s Market by Annie Vanderboom de Estrada One of the most authentic and exciting experiences you can have in Antigua is a visit to the local market, “El Mercado Central,” located on Alameda Santa Lucia between 2nd and 4th Calles. Here’s the route I’ve developed after ten or so years of exploring, plus an easy and delicious guacamole recipe to make with your finds. Go in the 4th Calle entrance across from La Bodegona, which is lined with stalls of toys and knick-knacks. The Artisan Market (“Mercado de Artesanias”) next door is much better for hand-crafted souvenirs. Here in the main market, you can find fun, quirky gifts for your favorite weirdo back home: capybara slippers, Godzilla figurines, and corny t-shirts abound. Watch out for traffic! The road is generally packed with pedestrians, especially on market days, but it’s also open to motos and cars. Your market mantra: Embrace the chaos. When the road suddenly widens, about 50 meters in, you have a couple options. You can look for the single food cart that’s often set up in the center of the clear area. If you’re

brave, get in line and treat yourself to a ceviche made from “criadillas” — bull’s testicles! Or veer to the right and look for a window selling flowers and seafood ceviche (“ceviche de mariscos”). Here’s your chance to channel your inner Tony Bourdain: Ask for a “picosita.” You’re going to be handed a cold can of cheap beer, usually Gallo or Tecate. Crack it open and have a big swig to make room for the fixings. Then hand it back to be seasoned with minced onions, sauce, and lime and topped with a single shrimp. Sit on the curb. Sip. Take it all in.

”the road is generally packed with pedestrians, especially on market days, but it’s also open for use by motos and cars, too” Believe it or not, you’ve only made it to the edge of the parking lot. Time to move past the flowers and picositas and head inside. Try to stay aimed more or less straight back on the narrow, zigzagging walkway. You’re going to pass booths selling women’s clothing and a couple hardware and pharmacy stands. Then you’re in the

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photos by Gustavo Estada

Flower Zone, and then Candles and Dried Herbs. You’re almost there! Seeing some fruit vendors now? Keep going; the path will deposit you into a big, highceilinged room full of produce. When you turn left into the center aisle, one of the first people you’ll see is an old, old woman — definitely a grandma, maybe great or great-great — with the most beautiful fresh greens in the market. This is your cilantro stop. Herbs are measured by how much you can get for a quetzal; 2Qs worth is plenty for what we need.

“but keep your eyes peeled here for quirky gifts for your favorite weirdo back home: capybara slippers, Godzilla figurines, and corny t-shirts abound” Directly behind you as you’re looking at the greens, you’ll find all the spices. Get 5Q of ground cumin and some salt and pepper if you don’t have any on hand. Then spin back around and move to the next booth over. The women

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here are Salad Granny’s daughters, nieces, and granddaughters, and they’re our lime providers. We only need one lime for the guacamole, but unlike herbs, limes are usually sold by the “mano,” or “hand” — that is, in quantities of five. When limes are in season, a mano can cost as little as 1Q. When they’re not, a single lime is often double that. Continue along the center aisle, keeping your eyes out for avocados. You want the smaller, darker, egg-shaped Haas avocados rather than the bigger, rounder, greener ones. Haas avocados originated here in the Panchoy Valley, and Antigueños frequently refer to themselves as “panzas verdes” — “green bellies” — because they eat so many of them! You can ask for your avocados “para hoy,” “para mañana,” or “para pasado mañana”: ripe today, tomorrow, or the day after that. Get two or three. Like everything else, they range in price depending on the season (and your Spanish skills), but 10Q a piece is fair. Hang a right at the end of the aisle and then an immediate left after continues on page 39

Panza Verde Guacamole the first chicken stand. A warning to the vegetarians and the badly hungover amongst us — we’re cutting through the meat section next, and going right by the offal counters. Walk straight past the two aisles of hanging beef and pork. Then you’ll pass stands selling fresh cheese wrapped in banana leaves, imported Asian goods, and dried shrimp and fish. We’ve arrived at our last stop: onions! Get a small white onion and some garlic, which you can buy by the head or by the single “diente,” or “tooth.” From the onion stand, go right, then take a quick left, and head straight towards the sunlight. You made it! Turn left to go back the way you came or go right to find the best fruit vendors and the bus terminal. Pat yourself on the back: You’ve successfully navigated approximately 5% of the Antigua market.

•2-3 Haas avocados “para hoy” •½ small white onion, finely chopped •1-2 cloves of garlic, minced •A small handful (2 T) chopped cilantro leaves (optional) •A pinch (1/4 tsp) each of ground cumin and ground black pepper •A big pinch (1/2 tsp) salt •Juice of one lime Carefully cut the avocados in half. Remove the seeds and scoop the green flesh into a bowl. Add all the other ingredients and mash with a fork until it’s as smooth as you like it. Eat with tortilla chips, on toast, or dig right in with a spoon. Buen provecho!

Tips for a fun and safe market visit ·The market is open every day, but Market Days are Monday, Thursday, and Saturday. ·Go early in the day for the best selection and cooler temperatures. ·Local currency only; no cards accepted. ·Don’t wear flashy clothes or jewelry or carry valuables. ·Be aware of your surroundings. Step out of the way for people who are working hard and moving heavy things. ·It’s ok to take photos of products and food, but don’t photograph people without permission. ·It’s strongly recommended that you soak any produce you’ll eat raw (without peeling) for five minutes in a mild bleach or vinegar solution and let it air dry. ·“Tourist tax” is real. You might be asked for double or even triple the prices quoted in this article. Haggle politely if you want. Pay a little extra if you can, keep your perspective, and count your blessings: You’re here.

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Enjoy great food and amazing views

There’s nothing like heading up, up, and away into the mountains for some fresh air. High up in the hills of San Cristóbal El Alto, 15 minutes from the Central Park of La Antigua, you’ll find the perfect spot to eat some locally sourced food and relax: Cerro San Cristóbal.

The restaurant is blessed with breathtakingly scenic backdrops of forested mountains, hills and the magnificent volcanoes that surround the city (Agua, Fuego and Acatenango) and, of course, endless sky. When it comes to food, the place is a dream come true for those looking for an authentic farm to table experience. They bring the freshness of fields, orchards, and artisanal foods directly to your table and prepare simple but beautiful dishes for you to savour while taking in the views. At Cerro San Cristóbal, you’ll find some of the best pizzas in town – which you should pair with a local beer. Why not come for breakfast for the best opportunity to experience views of the 3 volcanos. restcerrosancristobal.com @comewatchusgrow rest.cerro.sancristobal

Cerro San Cristóbal not only delivers amazing meals in unforgettable settings, they also work on the sustainability of the community of San Cristóbal El Alto by joining forces with farm and business owners who provide sightseeing tours and trekking tours to the waterfalls, coffee plantations, orchid sanctuaries and local artisan shops. The restaurant even has a small orchid farm you should visit! There is a playground for the children and live music every weekend and holidays.

On Saturdays and Sundays, you can take a shuttle from Nim Po’t (5a Ave. Norte #29 under the arch of Santa Catalina). ·It leaves at 9.30AM, 12.30PM and 3.30PM. ·The shuttle returns to Antigua at 12PM, 3PM and 6PM. ·The cost is Q20 per person. ·No charge for children under 10 years of age. There’s free parking 50 metres towards the village on the right. Open from Thursday to Monday from 7 AM- 7 PM. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.

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A Day At the Stadium Football – or soccer, as North Americans call it – is one of the most beloved sports in Guatemala. Again and again, you can see fans support their favourite teams; fight for them; become disillusioned and give up; and then change their minds, turn around, and go back to being die-hard fans. Football is lived with passion and – if we’re going to be honest – with disappointment, as well.

Aerial view of the Pensativo Stadium

Qué Pasa was at the Pensativo Stadium on the day that La Antigua won 6-1 against Achuapa and besides experiencing all the excitement alongside the rest of the fans, we were able to see what a day at Estadio Pensativo is like. In addition to the fans, outside the stadium, there are also vendors selling shirts, caps, and plastic trumpets. There are a few ticket scalpers around, as well. As time goes on, more and more of

the stadium’s neighbours on Calle Ancha begin to open up their temporary stalls offering meals and snacks, as well as drinks which have to be finished before going into the stadium, because no outside beverages are allowed. Yes, there will be a couple of vendors selling drinks inside the stadium, but they’ll obviously be much more expensive inside.

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Photo credit: marcoortiz_fotoarte

“Los Panzas Verdes” enjoying the match.

See page 35

Once the queue begins to move and you finally manage to enter the stadium, there’s a perceptible change in the atmosphere; it’s a fiesta that begins with green smoke (the colour of La Antigua’s team – the Panzas Verdes) covering much of the Preferencia section of the stadium. A sea of green shirts, as well as a few purple ones from the opposing team, are visible in the stands, then comes the sound of trumpets and drums. There’s a kind of camaraderie among those in attendance. Once inside, it doesn’t matter if this is your first, second, or hundredth time supporting the team. In unison, during free kicks or when a goal is missed, the audience yells at and – let’s be honest – colourfully insults the culprit. For almost two hours, the sun is strong, emotions run high, and every minute counts. You’re part of this green tide that vibrates from emotion, that laughs, and that believes in the team. In the end, it doesn’t matter whether La Antigua wins or loses, the fans never stop yelling. Buy tickets online at: https://boletosantiguagfc.com/antiguagfc/boletos

Let’s go! ¡Vamos Antigua!

¡Para leer en español!

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Sourdough in Antigua: Flour, Water, Salt & Time

La Familia Pizzeria y Trattoria

Leo and Esme started La Familia during the pandemic in 2020, baking from home. Today, they work with the same sourdough starter at two neighboring locations on one of Antigua Guatemala’s most picturesque streets. Around the corner, La Familia Sourdough Bakery & Café opens at 7:00 a.m., serving specialty coffee, pastries, and breakfast made with the day’s fresh sourdough bread. Their starter is fed every day, while the dough is left to ferment slowly for hours before being baked.

Just a few steps away, La Familia Pizzería & Trattoria is open from 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Here, that same dough becomes Neapolitan-style pizza, accompanied by fresh homemade pasta and traditional Italian dishes such as osso buco. The spacious restaurant features a garden and fireplace, making it a welcoming spot for Antigua afternoons and evenings. In 2024, Leo won first place at the VI National Italian Pizza Championship. In April 2025 he travelled to Parma, Italy where he represented Guatemala at the 32nd World Pizza Championship and received a special mention. Celebrating something? La Familia welcomes large groups and offers a special menu for events and gatherings.

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5a avenida sur #4, Antigua Guatemala Reserve your table via WhatsApp. 3510-4663 lafamiliapizzeriagt lafamilia_pizzeriagt/ Leer en español.

(Aaaaarrrggghh!)

The Many Flavours of

El Cazador Italiano

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Chef and restaurateur Luciano Tarabini established El Cazador Italiano in 2008, bringing a fresh approach to Antigua Guatemala’s Italian restaurant scene. Always looking to stay one step ahead, Luciano has recently been spending much of his time in his home kitchen, perfecting his own sauces, Italian sausages and hams — all of which you can enjoy in his restaurants or take home from the deli. EL CAZADOR ITALIANO RESTAURANT & WINE BAR. Here, you’ll find homemade pasta and authentic thin-crust pizzas, prepared with carefully selected Italian ingredients. Cheese lovers should try the Pasta Arturo, cooked to perfection inside a Parmesan wheel. With a choice of 135 wines, including 15 available by the glass, there’s something to suit every taste and budget. TINTOFOCACCIA. Think Italian Riviera, but with volcano views. Tintofocaccia offers a modern, relaxed outdoor dining experience at Paseo Antigua. Start the day with an authentic Italian breakfast, including the legendary cornetto and focaccia stuffed with omelettes, or drop by for one of the weekend brunch options. Later, the menu turns to pizzas, salads and antipasti made for sharing, alongside a tempting selection of pasta and desserts. Located in the upmarket Paseo Antigua outdoor shopping centre in Santa Inés, at the entrance to Antigua, Tintofocaccia is an ideal pit stop when travelling from Guatemala City. With two hours of free parking, you can enjoy a leisurely Italian meal before exploring some of the latest shops. The light, airy terrace, shaded by huge parasols, also offers welcome protection from the rain, making it a relaxed setting for birthdays, convivios and baby showers.

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EL CAZADOR DELI. Luciano sources directly from local Italian producers, bringing a selection of quality products and wine to Antigua at reasonable prices. After all, El Cazador is always hunting! The deli has become a favourite for its freshly baked paninis and breads. For lunch on the go, choose a panini from the tempting selection of fillings. And if you’re bored with everyday sauces, Luciano has the answer: artisanal pasta sauces, lovingly made without colourings or preservatives. With Christmas approaching, look out for the deli’s special canastas navideñas. Coming soon are also several truffle products, including a luxurious pecorino cream with truffle. Free delivery is available in Antigua, with deliveries to Guatemala City on Wednesdays and Thursdays. El Cazador Italiano Wine Bar And Pizzeria 6a Calle Poniente #29B 4911-4763 and 7832-5824 Tintofocaccia Paseo Antigua, Santa Inés 5587-7178 El Cazador Deli 3a Avenida Norte #1 Apto 3 3715-2811 and 7791-2475 @elcazadoritaliano @cazadoritaliano

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The Legend Lives On! Nifu Nifa is Antigua’s only family-run Argentinian steakhouse, proudly operated by the Stella family for the past 25 years. They serve premium imported cuts—Rib-Eye, New York Strip, Tenderloin, Cowboy, and the massive Tomahawk, among many others! For vegetarians, Nifu Nifa offers delicious options like grilled Portobello mushrooms with fresh mozzarella and pesto, as well as their famous 16-option salad bar. Enjoy live music every Friday and Saturday evening, plus Sunday afternoons. True to its Argentinian roots, tango performances are a highlight—and yes, dancing is encouraged! Sports lovers can also catch all the major soccer games on screen. Come for a meal or simply relax at the bar with a drink. Challenge the resident mixologist to craft your favorite cocktail, and don’t forget to explore the wine list, featuring outstanding Malbecs. Nifu Nifa is the perfect venue for birthdays, events, or group dinners—able to host up to 240 guests! For more intimate gatherings, private rooms are alsoavailable, as well as on our terrace. And don’t miss the Nifu Nifa Deli, where you’ll find your favorite cuts, artisanal chorizos, their famous homemade chimichurri, and even their own signature salt.

5a Avenida Sur #13, La Antigua Guatemala 7832 6579 @nifunifaantigua nifunifa_antigua

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A GUATEMALAN ORIGINAL

Shucos Written by Sofia Letona

The word isn’t something that sounds poetic or even hints at it being some sort of traditional dish – with some great story behind its origin. No, the word shuco, if anything, sounds a bit strong, rough even. Don’t let that fool you, a shuco is one of the most underrated dishes in Guatemala and one you should get to know very well in all its great varieties. It is important to mention it’s somewhat like a sandwich but not quite. Street vendors (as you’ll usually find them at markets, corners and festivities) use special bread as a base, a little thick so that it can contain all the things coming next without falling apart.

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The making of a shuco is somewhat methodical, for starters, whoever is making it will take some freshly made guacamole (no diced tomatoes or onions or anything else but salt and a squeeze of lime in it) and spread it all over the bread. Then, they’ll add the meat: your pick of pork, beef, chorizo (sausage) and/or longaniza (a different kind of sausage, usually without some spices and with herbs) – even all of them mixed – cut in small pieces and drop them on top. Next comes some cabbage, not overcooked and not undercooked, and your choice of mustard, mayo, ketchup and even seasoned onions, chirmol (fresh tomato and herbs sauce) and some spicy chile.

Photos by Sofia Letona

it’s a dish you need to experience, to try at least once as it embodies Guatemalan culture Even though it sounds like a strange combination of elements – and perhaps it is – it’s a dish you need to experience, to try at least once as it embodies Guatemalan culture in a very different way than the recados (sauces) and typical dishes. This is the kind of food we eat growing up at the fairs, at birthday parties and most definitely on town corners. Besides being cheap (don’t ever pay more than Q12 for a small one while in town), it is usually the meal over which football teams, students and people in a rush bond and make small talk.

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From Detox to Destination:

Y Tu Piña

También Just across the cobblestone street from Antigua’s legendary dive bar and music haven, Café No Sé, you’ll stumble upon one of the city’s most iconic little gems: Y Tu Piña También. Founded in 2005, this cozy café began as the perfect recovery spot for night owls coming off a long evening of cervezas and mezcal. “DETOX at Y Tu Piña, RETOX at Café No Sé,” the signs once read. Mornings brought in bleary-eyed travelers swapping stories over eggs, juice, and strong coffee.

But two decades later, Y Tu Piña is far more than a hangover cure—it’s a destination in itself. Step inside and you’re greeted by the buttery scent of croissants, pastries fresh from the oven, and pineapple crumble. The furniture, salvaged from antique shops across town, brings rustic charm with a splash of Caribbean color and character. The menu is vibrant and locally inspired: a hearty Desayuno Chapín, zesty

Whether you're brushing up on Spanish, savoring a cappuccino, or making new friends, Y Tu Piña También is where mornings begin, and stories unfold. Open 7 days a week, 8am–3pm.

Come hungry. Leave happy.

· restaurants & cafés ·

Chilaquiles, steak and eggs, fluffy pancakes, and a Mediterranean breakfast with salmon, eggs, olives, and feta. And yes —the Avocado Toast is legendary. Lunch offers gorgeous salads, vegetarian delights, and classic sandwiches on homemade bread, with daily specials that keep things exciting. Sip a fortifying smoothie, enjoy a crisp glass of wine, or treat yourself to a mezcal cocktail.

1a Avenida Sur 10B, Antigua Guatemala ytupinatambien Leer en español.

·Farm to the table since 1993·

Looking for a delicious breakfast any time of day? How about a homemade chai with a scone? A hearty sandwich of beef tenderloin or roasted turkey? Vegan? We’ve got you covered. Dessert?? Oh my! We have an incredible section of cakes and pies. Everything made in-house, from the finest ingredients available, since 1993. Farm to table before it was a concept! Check out our daily specials on the blackboard and try a seasonal treat. Enjoy our three colonial patios in La Casa del Conde or find a spot in the dining room. (The house was originally inhabited in the 1600’s by the Count of Gomera and there is a great story about the butler and the Condesa!) We’ve created a “home away from home” for locals and travelers alike.

Menu English

Menu Español

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In a hurry? The CC EXPRESS next door provides quick access to our famous coffee drinks, amazing hot chocolate and an assortment of sandwiches, empanadas, cakes, pies and more. Grab a snack and go sit in the park! Or grab something on your way out of town.

Restaurant: 5a Ave Norte #4, Central Park Hours: Sun-Thur 7am - 8pm Fri & Sat 7am - 9 pm

Condesa Express: Next door to the restaurant Hours: Sun - Thur 6 am - 8:30 Fri & Sat 6am - 9:30 pm 4a Calle Oriente, #51 Hours: 6am - 6pm daily

cafecondesaantigua CafeCondesaAntigua cafecondesa.com.gt 5513 7235

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Para leer en español

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· restaurants & cafés ·

14a calle 4 oriente Antigua Guatemala Located in Plaza La Fuente

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Scan me to check out Antigua’s monthly events calendar.

Panza Verde

Without a doubt, La Cueva with its grand piano is the most elegant place in Antigua for live music Wednesday through Saturday from 7.30 PM – 9.30 PM. The very cool basement Blue Room at Panza Verde has live music on Fridays and Saturdays from 9 PM – 11 PM. Also, check out Panza Verde Gallery- a beautiful space located on the second floor. It presents and supports works by renowned Guatemalan artists, as well as internationally recognized artists.

El Barrio Live bands.

Cerveceria Catorce

Live music Tuesday-Friday from 7 PM. On weekends there is live music throughout the day starting at 12 PM plus free transport from Antigua.

El Depósito

Live music Wednesday-Saturday from 7 PM.

Bullseye Sports Bar Antigua’s No. 1 Pub Quiz with Shaun every Thursday at 7 PM. Karaoke every Wednesday at 8 PM and karaoke open mic every Friday at 8 PM.

Have ALL the fun, but please drink responsibly! 74

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· bars & nightlife ·

Aqua

Aqua has live music on Saturdays 6 PM – 8 PM and Sundays 2 PM – 4 PM. For the wine lovers out there, Aqua has a very enjoyable and popular wine tasting every month.

Cerro San Cristóbal

With its breathtaking views and farm-to-table food, enjoy live music every weekend. Direct shuttle from the centre of Antigua during the weekend. Check out their article for more details.

Fridas

Live music from Thursdays to Saturdays starting at 8 PM and enjoy Sunday Brunch with live music from 11 AM.

Antigua Cerveza-El Bosque Live music

Las Vibras

Antigua’s leading nightclub featuring live DJs. Check their Instagram page for forthcoming events.

Las Palmas

Las Palmas is THE place to dance Salsa. Live salsa Tuesdays to Sundays from 9.30 PM. If you can’t dance salsa, then take advantage of the free salsa lessons from Tuesdays to Sundays at 5 PM. Upstairs there’s live music Tuesdays to Sundays from 7pm – 9pm

Scan me to check out Antigua’s monthly events calendar.

· qué pasa ·

· bars & nightlife ·

VUDU

Every day from 5 PM - 6 PM.

BULLSEYE Sports Bar From 11 AM – 6 PM every day.

Brooklyn Pizza If you’re looking for a fun night out, then you’re spoilt for choice in Antigua. When it comes to live music, both Guatemalan musicians and bands as well as the many visiting musicians to Antigua have given it a very lively music scene. From salsa to bluegrass, reggaeton to boleros-Antigua has you covered. Here are some of Qué Pasa’s favourite places to hear live music or enjoy a fun pub quiz.

Every day from 4 PM – 7 PM.

LAVA

6 PM - 7 PM every day.

Las Vibras

Ladies’ Night every Wednesday. Ladies receive free drinks before 10:30 pm

Scan me to check out Antigua’s monthly events calendar.

Use our map to find the locations mentioned!

Have ALL the fun, but please drink responsibly!

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The Magic of The Santa Clara Church and Convent

Written by Elizabeth Bell

The Santa Clara Church and Convent is one of Antigua’s most captivating historical gems and a premier venue for weddings and social events. Open daily from: 9AM to 5 PM. Admission: 5Q for Guatemalan, and 40Q for foreigners. Rental for Church Venue (capacity for: 200 guests) and Convent (100 guests) under $2,000 each. Management: CNPAG.

Construction began in 1703 and was completed in 1734 by renowned Guatemalan architect Diego de Porres—who also designed Las Capuchinas and City Hall. The church has one of the most ornate Baroque church facades in the region. Interestingly, the main entrance was intentionally filled in after De Porres had to rapidly redesign the layout to comply with traditional east-west ecclesiastical alignments. The exterior features stunning Italian Renaissance-inspired columns decorated with intricate, hand-carved stone mermaids—a signature motif of De Porres, who also featured them on the iconic central plaza fountain. Following the 1773 earthquake and the relocation of the colonial capital to Guatemala City, the complex was abandoned and the church was used to cultivate corn until the roof collapsed in 1874. Today, the ruins retain a deeply mystical atmosphere. Visitors can explore the ancient crypts

· culture, art & shopping ·

The Santa Clara Church and Convent

and experience a fascinating acoustic phenomenon in the sacristy known as the “telephone effect,” where whispering into one corner can be clearly heard on the exact opposite side of the room. Originally built to house 34 cloistered nuns from the Order of Saint Clare, the convent was ahead of its time. It became one of the few in Antigua to include a tile-decorated fountain. This beautiful feature was relocated to the Royal Palace in 1936 during early preservation efforts. Following major damage from the 1976 earthquake, the National Council for the Protection of Antigua (CNPAG) launched extensive reinforcement work in the 1980s, during which teams recovered the original sculpted head of Saint Michael from the façade, now on display at the Museum of Las Capuchinas.

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The Santa Clara Convent is located at 2 Avenida Norte and 6a Calle Oriente in front of Tanque la Unión

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Ink and Fire. Graphic Printmaking Residency in Antigua Guatemala. Awaken the artist within and come get your hands inked with us. If you are in town for 3 days, a week or more, this is for you! At Utopía, we open our printmaking residencies as a vibrant space to explore creativity in community. Lasting anywhere from 3 to 7 days, the experience adapts to your learning pace. We guide you from the fundamentals -like woodcut and linocut- to complex processes such as etching and aquatint, while also exploring cyanotype, gel plate, and collagraphy. We believe in accessible art open to the world. We work every day under an organized schedule so you can make the most of every creative session, with ongoing and responsible guidance. Give space to your creativity, connect with yourself, and come stamp your ideas. Write to us or find us at @utopia_espacio_creativo. 5 Avenida Sur #26, Antigua Guatemala +502 3703-8734 @utopia_espacio_creativo utopíaguatemala.com

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Learn with Que Pasa!

Get your chapin slang out! Part 2. Anyone visiting Guatemala for the first time falls in love with the weather, the coffee, the volcanoes, and the warm smiles of its people… and then ends up completely baffled when they hear, “¡A la gran púchica vos!” Because here, Spanish has a life of its own - colourful, cheeky, clever, and rhythmic. Among the cobblestone streets, crowds and traffic, local expressions become an emotional guidebook: frustration, anger, excitement, joy, affection, and encouragement.

¡Va Pues! Loose translation: All right then. It’s not just agreement — it’s a verbal pact between friends. It means “fine, whatever”, “you’ve convinced me”, or “let’s do it then”. When said with a sigh, it carries a hidden “even if I don’t want to”. But with a smile, it’s the start of a good story.

Shute Loose translation: Nosy / Curious. A shute is a professional busybody — the one who can’t resist finding out what’s going on. “Let’s go shutear to see what happened”, “You’re such a shute, aren’t you?” If a chapín calls you that, don’t be offended. It’s part of the local humour — and, to be fair, you probably wanted to know the gossip too. In Guatemala, curiosity didn’t kill the cat… it just made it more popular.

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Learn with Que Pasa!

¡Púchica! Loose translation: Blimey! / Damn! The most versatile word in the Guatemalan vocabulary. It can express anything from surprise to frustration. Real-life examples: “¡Púchica, I forgot my phone!” or “¡Púchica, look how chilero that is!” It’s a word with a soul: it sounds intense, but deep down, it’s pure affection disguised as drama.

Ni Modo...

Loose translation: Oh well. / Never mind.

The national mantra. It sums up the chapín philosophy of accepting life as it comes. It’s used for everything -if it rains, if the power’s out, if you missed the bus or lost love. “Ni modo” is resignation and peace in a single phrase. It’s the Guatemalan version of Hakuna Matata, but with a touch of sarcasm and faith.

And here’s one last one, whispered with a grin - if you’re fair-skinned and blond, you’ll hear it often: canche. Now that you’re chapinised after reading this, go fall in love with our Spanish - one that only asks you to understand the soul of its people. Because behind every phrase lies a way of seeing life: with humour, hope, and the gift of laughing even at the complicated bits. Written by: Julissa Carrillo Illustrations by: Gustavo Estrada

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Written by Sofia Letona

Empowering a New Generation Through Identity and Equity

Asociación SERniña is a Guatemalan non-profit organisation working at the heart of emancipatory education and social justice. Their mission is to dismantle gender inequality by strengthening the "Verdadero SER" (True Self). They believe that by doing so, they can build a world where children and adolescents are empowered to lead their own lives, pursue their dreams, and become the protagonists of their own stories. This is achieved through the empowerment of girls and women, alongside the critical transformation of masculinity in boys, young men, and adults. Their work focuses on sparking profound social change through comprehensive, community-based education. SERniña is dedicated to ending gender inequality in Guatemala by working hand-in-hand with parents and teachers. Together, they foster a collective environment where girls can develop the skills, knowledge, confidence, and courage needed to make informed life decisions rooted in self-knowledge, self-love, and inner strength. This approach is brought to life through a pedagogical practice that views the classroom as the ideal space for social transformation and violence prevention. By utilising gradual, scientifically grounded, and psychologically appropriate processes—based on feminist education, masculinities, popular education, and the Mayan Cosmovision—they seek to create fairer communities that defend both human integrity and their ancestral lands.

Their mission is to dismantle gender inequality by strengthening the "Verdadero SER" (True Self).

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HAIR RESTORATION Marie Andrée Dra. Schambach Morel Schambach Med-Group Hair Clinic Full Hair Car Cosmetic Assesment Platelet Rich Plasma Intradermal Stimulating Medications Micro-Transplants with FUE Technique

Dra. Schambach, a hair-restoration surgeon with a medical degree from Universidad Francisco Marroquín and an ISHRS active member, runs the Schambach Med-Group Hair Clinic which offers treatments for any kind of hair loss in any body area. This includes full hair-care cosmetic assessment, Platelet Rich Plasma, intradermal stimulating medications, micro-transplants with FUE technique (no scars, general anesthesia, or pain), among other treatments. Spanish and English spoken.

Multimédica, Oficina #1101 Boulevard Vista Hermosa 25-19 Zona 15, Ciudad de Guatemala www.schambachmedical.com info@schambachmedical.com 2385-7655

The ultimate goal of this formative process is for "SERniña women" to develop leadership and autonomy. They learn to recognise themselves as the sole authors of their own histories, guardians of their bodies as personal temples, and warriors who fight for the advancement of women everywhere, guided by the principle of sorority (sisterhood). For Asociación SERniña, education is the foundation for achieving gender equity and a future free from violence.

How Can You Support? You can help SERniña continue their vital work by: •Making a donation: Every contribution counts. •Spreading the word: Share their campaigns and stories. •Getting involved: Participate in their community initiatives. •Becoming a recurring donor: Help sustain workshops, safe spaces, and support programmes throughout the year. Your support enables SERniña to continue creating opportunities and transformative processes for girls, women, and communities across Guatemala.

Get in touch Calles de Las Tapias, Casa 1, Interior 1A, Zona 4, Jocotenango, Sacatepéquez, Guatemala +502 3762-6444 Leer en español

sernina.contacto@gmail.com / info@realgirlfoundation.org www.sernina.org/ asociacion.sernina

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To arrange a viewing contact Scott Stanton +502 5364 3432

scottquepasa@gmail.com

SCAN ME for details on all of our properties.

Amazing and Unique Opportunity 33 Manzanas — approximately 23 hectares (57 acres) An exceptional opportunity to acquire a large tract of land located on the slopes of Volcán de Agua, close to Château Defay, on the road from Santa María de Jesús to Palín. The property features a beautiful natural setting with cypress, oak and avocado trees, as well as a water supply. With its size, location and natural surroundings, the land offers excellent potential for: Eco-tourism Zip-lining Glamping Avocado tree cultivation

SCAN ME to see a video of the property

The owner would consider dividing the property into two parcels or selling individual manzanas, offering flexibility for different investment possibilities. 1 manzana = approximately 0.7 hectares (1.7 acres). Contact me for further details. See more of our properties on pages 10 and 22

· well education · QUE being PASA · & PROPERTIES

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