Issuu

Leute, Looks und Lebensart

54/55 2016

Bali

Of rice & demons

BAnksy

Phantom Arts

interview

Femme Schmidt

CARTIER

Fifth Avenue

ZAHA HADID To be continued

GBP 8,00 CHF 12,80 EURO 7,50 USD 13,50

quality-magazine.ch

ABOUT

BVLGARI.COM

TRIO BY TEAM FORM AG

COR.DE

www.sensai-cosmetics.com

SILKY DESIGN ROUGE Amplify your beauty with the red glow of silk Red that flatters the beauty of your complexion. Red that enhances the brilliance of your eyes. Discover the red that is made for you.

Skin enriched with the moisture of Silk

CONTENTS

Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

130

Destination 20 Maledives

Like a string of pearls

Imagination 16 Granville

Femmes en Dior

26 Manolo Blahnik Sweet Heels

48 Prague

Holy Halls

54 Lago Maggiore Grüezi Indien

92 Cartier

30 Animal Orchestra Darwin‘s Orchestra

108

44 New York

Shake baby, shake

52 Milano

Mini space, maxi demands

64 Banksy

Phantom Art

144 Buddha to Buddha Bali Children Foundation

160

$100 and a pearl necklace

Realisation

Bali

25 Bacon

Land of Rice and Demons

Italien delle donne

Un plaisir blanche

28 Chafor Understatement

29 Almliebe O’ zapft is

40 New York On top

76 Christo & Co. barefoot preferred

130 Zaha Hadid Massive Waves

64 8

138 Schmidt cette femme

Design Quality Magazin No. 25 – September 2012

M ANUFACTURE DE H AUTE H ORLOGERIE

TONDA CHRONOR ANNIVERSAIRE

Rose gold case Rose gold openworked movement Integrated split second chronograph Big date at 12 h Hermès alligator strap Made in Switzerland www.parmigiani.ch

BAD OEYNHAUSEN DÜSSELDORF

JUWELIER PLACH

JUWELIER HESTERMANN & SOHN HANNOVER

JUWELIER KRÖNER

MÜNSTER, OSNABRÜCK

| |

BERLIN

JUWELIER LORENZ

FRANZEN KÖNIGSALLEE

MÖNCHENGLADBACH

JUWELIER OEDING-ERDEL

INNSBRUCK

DÜSSELDORF

JULIUS HAMPL

STUTTGART

SALZBURG

BOCHUM |

JUWELIER HEIDI BOXBÜCHER

DORTMUND, FRANKFURT, KÖLN

JUWELIER KREBBER

MÜNCHEN

CHRONOMETRIE VON HOFEN

DE UNGARIA

WIEN

JUWELIER RÜSCHENBECK

WEMPE MAXIMILIANSTR.

KAMPEN/SYLT

JUWELIER SPLIEDT

SCHULLIN – UHREN IM LOOSHAUS

PLEASE CONTACT: PARMIGIANI FLEURIER DISTRIBUTION DEUTSCHLAND GMBH, FON +49 89 210 204 64 0

Editorial Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

uality loves movement, Quality is movement, and our favourite is „Go Warp“ - which is precisely the main topic for our Motion Special. The latest big double issue celebrates the contrast of the international world of travelling, beauty and relaxation against the dynamic world of movement. In the Motion Special we report on cars, which are not only about true speed, but also about intellectual mobility and the resulting willingness to innovate. Wherever intellectuality and technology perfectly combine, something special will be created. For this reason, the inner attitude of a professional driver and their willingness to push their motivation past personal boundaries are just as important as having a perfectly designed car. Participants of the Peking to Paris motor race definitely push their boundaries, very consciously and with plenty euphoria. It is one of the most spectacular classic car rallies in the world! Major classic car competitions such as the Historic Grand Prix in Monaco or the Mille Miglia in Italy are more luxurious and a little more pain-free. Cars and drivers combine in an emotional unity, causing extreme feelings of pleasure and creating unforgettable moments. We interviewed Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the owner of Chopard, who described the emotional connection between motors, cars and watches. This issue was bursting with superlatives: brave, spectacular and very emotional. The Louis Vuitton America‘s Cup, which will take place once more on the Hudson River in New York after 90 years and the brave young Team New Zealand, who will perform on water for the Formula 1. Hats off! Only a few years before, or, to be precise, exactly 100 years before, Pierre Cartier bought a magnificent building in Manhattan for just 100 dollars and a pearl necklace, which is still to this day the heart of the Cartier brand in New York. Strongly linked to the societal and also the city‘s history,

both its anniversary and the reopening of the store will be celebrated in September. Pierre Rainero, Cartier‘s Image & Heritage Director, revealed his mental treasure chest to us, telling us many fascinating stories from long forgotten times. These stories may not be about performance indicators, but it is very clear that when an entrepreneur has both bravery and creativity they are capable of making the impossible possible. Artists also carry this strong inner flame within them, allowing them to display wonderful artwork. As an international celebrity, it is even possible to keep your identity hidden, as Banksy does. Or it is even possible to create your vision of perpendicularly standing parts of a motorway from tarmac, as Albert Scopin does. However, with relaxation always comes tension: it may be with an unusual trip to Bali, the Island of the Gods, where every visitor opens the door to spirituality and has an opportunity to step into the unknown. Or perhaps it is with an excellent wine, produced by brave, inspired women, who have triumphed in the conservative Italian wine production. With every special story about beauty and the opportunity to slow down, we offer you a bow of suspense, whereby you must decide yourself, whether you would rather have more movement or more reflection. Or maybe everything all at once ... Embark on the stories of exceptional people. Take a leaf from their inspiring stories, from their bravery and their will power. And perhaps an oak tree will grow from an acorn of inspiration.

IMPRESSUM Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Editor in Chief/Creative Director Susanne Filter Motion Editors M. K. H. Arens Alexandra Felts

Business Developement Manager Jan Kiekebusch

Art Director Dipl.-Des. Barbara Schork

Head of Services/CVD Tiffany Fiore Mancini

Food Editor Antonia Ostersetzer

Fashion- / Jewellery Editor Mimi Nguyen

Graphic Dipl.-Des. Margrét Hügemann Des. Monique Ruppert *

Design Editor Norman Kietzmann

Real Estate Editor Volker de Boer

Beauty Editor Miriam Bektasi *

Contributors Alexandra Felts, Esther Haase, Judith Hirsbrunner, Norman Kietzmann, Christopher Puttins, Oliver Rauh, Maren Schabhüser, Alex Schier, Ragnar Schmuck, Patrick Walter

Culture Editor Sarah Kirsten

Wild Life Editor Prof. h.c. Dipl. betrw. Mark Weinholz

Gadgets Editor Dave Lubek

Publishing House Global Q Media AG Tödistr. 27 CH-8002 Zürich Telefon: +41 442 01 99 77 Fax: +41 442 01 55 22 info@globalqmedia.ch www.globalqmedia.ch Chairman / Verwaltungsrat Hans Schneider, Günter Wüst Publisher Matthias K. H. Arens Distribution International Gold Key Media Germany GmbH Internationaler Pressevertrieb Mannheimer Str. 1 D-69115 Heidelberg Distribution Germany UMS Pressevertrieb Internationaler Pressevertrieb Am Waldessaum 4 A D-51545 Waldbröl Quality Subscription Service International Global Q Media AG Tödistr. 27 CH-8002 Zürich Telefon: +41 794 14 39 44 abo@quality-magazine.ch

Marketing & Sales International Global Q Media AG Tödistr. 27 CH-8002 Zürich Telefon: +41 793 29 10 32 Fax: +41 44 390 22 62 sales-international@quality-magazine.ch Marketing & Sales Germany Nithackstr. 7 D-10585 Berlin Telefon: +49 30 54 81 07 01 Fax: +49 30 54 81 07 10 sales@quality-magazine.ch Interlinx Holding Partnership Worldwide distribution to 230 private business and golf clubs

International Associate Clubs 1629 Ocean centre 5 Canton Road TST Kowloon Hongkong www.iacworldwide.com Finance/Controlling BGW Treuhand AG Tiefenackerstraße 49 CH-9450 Altstätten SG info@bgw-treuhand.ch

Editorial Office Interlinx Holding AG Tiefenackerstr. 49 CH-9450 Altstätten SG Telefon: +41 71 755 27 30 Fax: +41 71 755 27 30 info@interlinx-holding.ag www.interlinx-holding.ag Chairman / Verwaltungsrat Günter Wüst Editorial Office Germany nicht selbstständige Niederlassung

Nithackstraße 7 – Kontorhaus D-10585 Berlin Telefon: + 49 30 54 81 07 01 Fax: + 49 30 54 81 07 10 info@quality-magazine.ch Editorial Office Switzerland Interlinx Holding AG Gustav-Mauerstr. 7 CH-8702 Zürich – Zollikon Telefon: +41 44 39 022 60 contact@quality-magazine.ch Editorial Office New York Georgia Benjamin Apartment 4C 132 N 5th Street Brooklyn, New York 11249, USA ny@quality-magazine.ch Editorial Office Mexico Adolfo Ayuso Audry Mz. III Calle A Nr. 35 col. Educación C. P. 04400, México D. F., Mexico ayuso-audry@quality-magazine.ch

Quality Subscription Service Germany Nithackstr. 7 – Kontorhaus D-10585 Berlin Telefon: + 49 30 54 81 07 01 Fax: + 49 30 54 81 07 10 abo@quality-magazine.de

Cover Credits: Quality About Quality Go Warp: Photography: Esther Haase @ Schierke Artists, Styling: Elke Rüss @ Liganord Photography: Christopher Puttins, Styling: Mareen Bayer @ Jen Hahn Styling Assistant: Esther Felten, Hair & Make-up: Claudia Schlifter, Retouche: Styling Assistant: Isabella Zelori, Photography Assistant: Laura de Wit, Daniel Annalena Rumler, Model: Sarah Leonie Schultz @ Modelwerk, Dress: Paul & Joe Schwarzer, Model: Maxim @ Modelwerk, Suit: Bally, Shirt: Dior Homme

www.quality-magazine.ch

Trainee/Volontär

Responsible for the editorial content in the purpose of the press law: Susanne Filter. All rights reserved. The magazine as well as every article and image included are protected by copyright. The export and distribution overseas are only permitted with prior approval. No liability assumed for undemanded text and pictorial material. Global Q Media AG is the owner and licenser of the national and international protected trademark QUALITY.

THE TITANIC SHIP ARRIVED IN BERLIN

TITANIC CHAUSSEE BERLIN CHAUSSEESTRASSE 30 10115 BERLIN-MITTE

Tel. +49 30 31 16 85 80 www.titanic-hotels.de www.befine-clubs.de

Other TITANIC Hotels in Berlin: TITANIC GENDARMENMARKT Franzรถsische Str. 30, 10117 Berlin TITANIC COMFORT MITTE Elisabeth-Mara-Str. 4, 10117 Berlin

jul-sep Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

I believe I can fly It’s actually logical that after many successful years of various car-sharing, someone has come up with the idea of plane-sharing. Pilots very simply offer online seats on their private planes for enthusiastic co-flyers, business commuters and the curious. The pilots thus increase their required flight hours and co-flyers enjoy the phenomenal view, while they – surprisingly affordably – jet from A to B. Check in quickly and have lots of confidence! www.wingly.de

Suitcase tracking Digital boarding cards, checking in via smartphone - all pretty normal for those who regularly head to the airport. But Rimowa is now offering a travel gadget that makes flying more comfortable. Because instead of defacing a suitcase with an unsightly paper luggage identification strip, you can send it easily to the luggage display via Lufthansa app while travelling. Practical! www.rimowa.com

NEW

jul-sep Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Inkjet

Peggy Guggenheim was one of the most important art collectors of the 20th century. As a patron, she helped numerous artists like Kandinsky or Jackson Pollock achieve their breakthrough. Montblanc pays tribute to this life’s work with the “Patron of Art Peggy Guggenheim Limited Edition 81”, whose Art Deco design refers to Guggenheim’s most intense period of collection. Adorning the clip is the Lion of St. Mark, the symbol of Venice, where she last lived. And the Peggy Guggenheim Museum is still to be visited to this day as a statement of the famous art collector. www.montblanc.com

Starfish Constellation Although the elements of the new outdoor furniture line “Estrela” actually resemble wheels of various sizes, the designer duo Campana found its inspiration more in the depths of the ocean. The playful, yet straight chairs, lamps, benches and tables are made of lots of small starfish. A feast for the eyes, even on land ... www.campanas.com.br

exhibitions

Mitzah Bricard ( here about 1950 ) was considered Christian Dior´s legendary muse.

Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

“The secret of elegance lies in simplicity,” Christian Dior once said, and like no other the Frenchman understood how to celebrate the allure of femininity through his fashion creations. The looks he created were greatly influential, yet his Haute Couture never outshone the wearer of his clothes, which is perhaps why Dior is still regarded as a favourite of the most talented, most charismatic and most powerful of women.

Dior by Antonia Ostersetzer

Photo: Bert Stern

Femmes en

Photo: Rue des Archives AGIP Photo: Laziz Hamani

Royal`s favorite: The British Princess Margaret in 1951, wearing an elegant Dior gown.

hen Summer begins to show its face in Normandy, the hustle and bustle begins in Granville. Each year, the Christian Dior Museum in this picturesque coastal village opens its doors for a special personal exhibition in the fashionable home of the great couturier. It is not hard to imagine how a young Dior might have been blessed by the muse herself here, basking in the sunshine

and under palm trees, letting his gaze wander over the Atlantic. In Paris, Dior created one of the most important and successful Haute Couture Labels. He wrote the history of fashion over the decades and numerous radiant heroines wore his work. In particular, a number of strong, feminine and glamorous women were drawn to the embodiment of Dior elegance: Lady Diana, Jennifer Lawrence, Marilyn Monroe, Rihanna and Mizza Bricard are just a few of the person-

alities who have brought a Dior outfit to life with their sensuality. This year’s exhibition is dedicated to precisely these legendary looks, and is called “Femmes en Dior. Sublime élégance d´un portrait”. [Women in Dior. The sublime elegance of a profile]. One thing was always essential for the designer, and it was that his creative designs, the result of his tailoring, were never complete until they were fully embraced by their wearer, at which point the piece of clothing became their garment, expressing their personality. Today, the famous gowns tell us something about the women who wore them. Until the end of September, visitors to Granville can experience these glamorous fashion moments under the palm trees through a mix of letters, drawings and photographs, enjoying Dior’s homage to important, beautiful and strong women. Couture, as the history books tell us, can be found in the bays of Normandy.

18 ios.c

estud

www .acn

ykita .c

www .m

www.jilsander.com

.co

ors

elk

cha

w.m i

www.porsche-design.com

www.dior.com

Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

Accessoires

www.micha

elkors.com

w.p a

wa ka.

c om

www.escada.com

Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

d.com omfor

Sunglasses are no longer just an accessory - this summer they are becoming fashion statements. One word can describe the variety of the sunglasses trend: striking. With everything from over-sized lenses to eccentric cat-eye-shapes, the sky is really the limit. Even classics like aviators are getting revamped, transforming from an evergreen to striking colour-bombs, adding a splash of colour to any summer look. For those who want to keep the undercover look with pitch-black glasses, the selection does not fall short. These black beauties are taking on new radical forms and are both glamorous and edgy at the same time.

www.t

www.hugo

boss.com

EYE CONTACT

or some, the holiday starts as soon as they climb in the car with their packed suitcases. For others, it starts at the airport. But whoever has landed in Male, the main airport of the Maldives, knows this is the last base before a trip into a completely different world. The small armada of seaplanes continuously takes off and lands. Not a machine that I would normally climb into, but here it’s a matter of course. The captain and co-pilot wear chic light blue shirts, adorned with their Captain stripes, set off by cool Aviator sunglasses. My gaze slides down to their feet and lingers on the flip flops, nestling between bottles of mineral water and other accessories. If we’re really in the Maldives, then my choice of hotel should meet all the clichés. The selection of five-star Islands is immense and there are new ones almost every day. For me, the Maldives means an explosion of blue, from the bright turquoise water to a dark blue sky, contrasting with the very white and very fine sand. Landing directly on the jetty, I’ve already noticed the completely charming small Hotel Constance Halaveli island from above. Strung together like a string of pearls, some 60 water villas protrude into the shallow sea. Each villa has its own infinity pool and direct access to the sea. You can swim naturally here with countless colourful fish, including large rays that come close. Discreetness and intimacy assist with the perfect wind down, meaning you can relax very quickly. Reading a good book, comfortably lying in the sun or taking an island tour – which you can do in about 20 minutes – is a great typical entry into the world of the Constance Halaveli. The perfect island recovery is crowned by the excellent cuisine from this manageable paradise. Despite the pleasantly manageable number of guests, each individual guest is treated to culinary delights. In the exclusive Jahaz restaurant, chef Glen Cooper creates Asian-inspired seafood and other delicacies in a relaxed atmosphere. Of course, every pampered luxury guest must also take a trip to the excellently stocked wine cellar. Down to the finest detail, it’s not only human residents that are cared for at the Constance Halaveli: this paradisiacal island is a mini playground for exotic plants, birds and the millions of fish that make it their home. Water sports, scuba

Like a string of

pearls by Susanne Filter

diving and snorkelling are definitely among the top activities at the Halaveli, and the real treasures await you underwater. To promote the unique biosphere in the North Ari atoll, they have even set up a peculiar biological station. As a guest, you definitely appreciate this all-round care at the Halaveli, as confirmed by the many well-travelled regulars. Stressed out from everyday business, they stay here for a week, feeling like theyâ€™re at the edge of the world, enjoying the supreme levels of relaxation. Unfortunately, a week is over all too soon ...

Mr. Marlboro

Monkey dance “Life of Pi” was a breakthrough novel for Yann Martels, who became a bestselling author. With “The High Mountains of Portugal”, he presents a skilful tale of a crazy road trip in 1904. In the story, the young Tomás goes on an adventurous expedition with what was then the revolutionary car. With an ape for a companion, the protagonist has fantastic experiences and describes his amazing, sunny summer feelings, filled with humour and wisdom about life … Yann Martel, The High Mountains of Portugal, S. Fischer publishing, 2016

Eye Candy Naomi Campbell is more than just a photo model – she belongs to a league of supermodels who are changing fashion history with legendary photo shoots and unmistakable looks. With a limited number of copies, an illustrated book has now been published, collecting the most thrilling themes of the British catwalk icon with an exclusive autobiographical text. The cover alone promises deluxe eye candies, but what else would you expect from Naomi Campbell? Naomi Campbell Taschen publishing, 2016 22

Although Dieter Blum felt less at home in the American prairies than in Esslingen, he took photographs in the 90s of iconic pictorial worlds that still shape the pop cultural image of the American myth and the classic Lonesome Cowboys today. Whether you are a smoker or not, you will most definitely recognise Blum’s photos produced for Marlboro in the 90s which became part of one of the most famous advertising campaigns. In line with the current Blum exhibition in Berlin, an illustrated book has now been publishing with the photo shoots by the legendary Marlboro Man. Nowadays, smoking may be frowned upon – but the atmospheric work is definitely worth a look … Dieter Blum: Cowboys – The first Shooting 1992 Published by Renate Wiehager, Friederike Horstman Hatje Cantz publishing, 2016

Books Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Night-blind Satellite images of the world prove how large metropolitan areas are glistening epicentres of light, and how humans are constantly eating away at the planet’s surfaces. Andreas Gefeller approaches this urban development on an artistic level, and in his new illustrated book he shows overexposed satellite images and photographs of urban areas at night. Using this technique, in “Blank”, houses transform into light grids and metropolitans into delicate light strips, showing the crystalline diagrams of human existence. Andreas Gefeller Blank Hatje Cantz publishing, 2016

rmet Spot ou s G

n the small, winding coastal road curving round the Cap d‘Antibes along the seaside, lies the Restaurant de Bacon. Those who do not know the area well, which is the case for most tourists, could easily miss the turning. For those who do make it, a Service Voiturier shall await you. Then it‘s up a few steps into the spotless white restaurant. The design follows the Côte style of the 50s, 60s and 70s, with the classical elegance and exclusivity of this coastal stretch, which back then did not know tourism as it is today. The Bacon reminds you of a time when Saint-Tropez was still a fishing village, in which some of the beautiful and rich spent their summer in their villas and on their yachts on the Côte d’Azur. A touch of art nouveau, with a bit of Eileen Gray and le Corbusier - it is traces of this spirit that can still be felt in the Bacon. On the west side, a window façade opens out to a breath-taking view of the “Angel‘s bay”. The low balustrade offers a view over a few metres of green coastline, the quiet coastal roads, the rocky beach, the breadth of the bay and the blue of the Mare Nostrum. Contemporary art, over which there will certainly be divided opinions, decorates the set tables. The Bacon has been awarded a Michelin star, and with one look at the menu you can understand why. In the main dishes you will find just one lonely meat option, and even in the starters there are but a few non-fish choices. Even then, they only have some alternatives because one time, due to adverse winds and an ill fate, a fish allergy sufferer ended up stranded on their shore. What a shame, because the Bacon is an absolutely fantastic fish restaurant.

Un plaisir blanche In my opinion, the highlight starter is the Délices de Loup aux Truffes du Haut Var. In consists of ravioli, filled with minced Loup Sauvage, in a light cream sauce which adds subtle, refreshing lemon notes to the dish. The mixture of the pasta, filling and sauce explodes in a true flavourfirework on the tongue, retaining complete fineness and harmony, creamy and mild, a palate charmer made with the finest Loup de mer. A little Clos de Mouches from Joseph Drouhin goes perfectly with this dish. This light white wine from Beaune is markedly reserved for a Burgundy Pinot, but is nevertheless a multifaceted experience for the nose and mouth, and is a perfect accompaniment to this starter. The Clos des Mouches leaves you with a fine vanilla after-taste and reveals, by the second mouthful, great complexity in all its flavourful finesse and composure. When choosing the main dish, the choice becomes simple, because the Bouillabaisse is an absolute must. It is my opinion that this Bouillabaisse is the best of the whole coastline from Menton to Toulon, and by far. For this dish, various suitable fish are presented and are selected to suit each guest‘s gusto. The usual options are Loup de mer, Saint Pierre and Chapon, but Rouget and Lotte are also well-suited. Other options are also possible, subject to availability. The addition of Languste, as a supplement, is also possible, but I would say that the Languste flavour is too over-powering for this dish. Before the actual Bouillabaisse, croutons and garlic mayonnaise, with added saffron for a glorious yellow colour, are served on the table. The fish soup is dis-

played by waiters in copper pots on a heater on a side table with the pre-selected fillets of fish and the first part of the main dish to be served is usually the soup. The roasted bread chunks, the croutons, can be added to the dish by the guest as they please with garlic, to be used like mini-graters. This aioli becomes the victim of those who have a sweet tooth before the first helping of Bouillabaisse is even served. The waiters know how to run the show and serve very discreetly. By the second helping of Bouillabaisse, the fish soup serves as a sauce for the aforementioned plated fish fillets, complemented by excellent tasting, boiled in the fish soup, slices of potato. An escalation of flavours, that is so unexpected and surprises even the most experienced foodie. For the Bouillabaisse, a wine with a different calibre to the Clos des Mouches is needed, whose composed nature does not stand a chance with the abundance of flavours in this dish. A Corton Charlemagne from Louis Latour is a perfect companion to this dish. The wine, which is very powerful and assertive, will hold its ground without stealing too much of the limelight. In the otherwise pronounced wine tasting experience, there are traces of undertones of a very light Muscat flavour. It should not be forgotten that Bacon is very, very expensive, as you will notice when the bill arrives. However, despite the financial burn of the testing final chord, a returning visit is almost inevitable thanks to the exceptional quality.

Sweet

Heels by Antonia Ostersetzer

Chocolates and designer shoes – designer shoes as chocolates. Can there be a sweeter temptation? In Dubai, Manolo Blahnik shoe fetishists‘ dreams are coming true in two respects ...

t pays to travel halfway around the world for a coveted shoe. Ever since Sex and the City, you can make such a statement without fear of uncomprehending glances and immediately head off to the Emirates. There, a special shoe experience awaits, conjured by the designer Manolo Blahnik, who once provided footwear for Carrie. Ever since this gift to women around the world, his designs embody the epitome of a shoe obsession. To date, the Blahnik classic, “Hangisi”, has triggered global must-have attacks. Connoisseurs have long known that these are the legendary blue pumps that Carrie had on her finger – oops – foot for her engagement. Visitors to the upmarket hotel Raffles Dubai this summer should swoon over “Hangisi” and other models by the Spanish star designer – and not in the proverbial sense. The luxury hotel is currently offering a Fashion Afternoon Tea, which the Manolo-istas will find hard to turn down: Haute couture for the palate is the motto for the sugar-sweet popup events. Blahnik is exhibiting selected pieces from his collection at the Raffles Salon, while creative pastry chefs present matching Manolo Blahnik shoe-shaped chocolates. Peach chocolate heels, mini hat stands made of yogurt panna cotta – the delights not only look good enough to eat, but also make the classic tea ceremony a culinary highlight. Six lucky winners may take home their own pair of Manolos at the end of the event. All others keep the intricately-designed chocolate models, which, however, rival their big sponsors in terms of sophistication. Even if this is only a small consolation for real shoe freaks.

fashion Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

understatement Quietly understated yet striking? Simple yet exciting? Chafor is a fashion label that proves it’s all possible! When the passionate designer duo of Carmen Reiter and Ferran Andrés Hofer founded the label in Munich in 2012, they had a clear vision: Fashion shouldn’t be dictated to people, but should allow room for individuality. Ever since, they’ve remained true to this guiding principle and have created exclusive looks for every occasions – in fact, they‘re a real all-rounder. Elegant materials such as silk and leather, combined with high-quality handwork, are skilfully paired with elegant cuts that are comfortable to wear. It’s simply perfect for cosmopolitan fashion lovers who want to be unerringly stylish, despite their busy schedule. This season, Chafor is decked out with elegant and handpicked fabrics. Cocktail dresses and coats made of luxurious French lace, casual bomber jackets in velvet and handbags made from 100% soft calf leather. One particular must-have item is a set consisting of a top and jacket made from golden Jacquard and silk. From one season to the next, Chafor always manages to bring the wow factor with their classic, minimalist cuts embellished with those small details that make all the difference. The Chafor look is both timeless and modern at the same time. Definitely a „label to watch“! www.chafor.com

fashion Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

The beer is tapped! It‘s that time again – Oktoberfest is around the corner! Whether noble, classic or festive – Bavarian costume fashion is no longer just worn in Munich. And: the hustle and bustle in the incomparable atmosphere is even more fun in a stylish Oktoberfest outfit. The latest Oktoberfest trends are found in Almliebe, which is celebrating the comeback of the retro Dirndl. The models, which embrace both traditional and fashionable aspects, are presented in rather high neck and in classic muted colours. From snuggly cashmere sweaters through traditional dirndl to chic ballerinas – the entire Almliebe collection embodies the Alpine lifestyle, style and authenticity – interpreted with a contemporary twist. The young, fresh labels of websites like the Munich brand Gottseidank supply a traditional bodice, costume skirts and accessories – and mix the costume and fashion scene all up with new trends. So the phrase „Kiss the hand beautiful woman“ will be uttered more than once at Oktoberfest.

SECRET TIPS FROM Almliebe On the bright side: The cosy balcony at Etagencafé Bayerstubn (5-3) has a fantastic view. The guests, for example, on the new gallery of the Schützenzelt, the beer garden, the ox roasted on a spit or in the beetle garden also get the sun.

Shortcut: Those in a hurry or for whom the scramble on the major roads is too strenuous: take the quickest route over the Wiesn. This leads to the west side behind the large tents parallel to Theresienhöhe.

Moving: The traditional moving of Wiesn tents and the Munich breweries from the inner city takes place on the Theresienwiese at 1100 on 17/09/2016. The moving of the Trachtler performers and the shooting groups takes place at 1000 on 18/09/2016 on the festival grounds.

Augustine Festival Hall: THE tent for real Munich residents: this is comfortably Bavarian too. And the good Oktoberfest beer is still authentically drawn from giant wooden barrels.

Kultur Quality No. 54/55 – Juli bis Aug. 2016

Orchestra by Antonia Ostersetzer

Although sparrows supposedly whistle most of the time from the rooftops, we largely close our ears to their song and the sounds of the animals that surround us. Bernie Krause is a bio-acoustician and it is now his profession, as an exhibition impressively shows on a global scale for the first time.

Foto: Tim Chapman

For almost 40 years, bio-acoustician Bernie Krause has been recording animal sounds in the natural world. His collection includes 5,000 hours of audio material.

n In the 60s and 70s, Bernie Krause was known in professional circles, in particular for being a musician: soundtracks to movies such as „Rosemary´s Baby“ or „Apocalypse Now“ were his creations. And yet the American devoted around 40 years on studying the great Orchestra of the Animals, as he calls it. Through countless voyages of discovery and scientific field research, Krause has collected an unimaginable 5,000 hours of sound material of animal noises, with recordings of around 15,000 species. Again and again he ventured into remote regions and found musicality in any natural source. Krause listened whenever other people could only partly pick out a rhythmical beeping or roar, and he captured the language and the sound of the animals. If anything, only a few indigenous peoples nowadays possess the ability to interpret these melodic interactions. In the interview, Krause refers to the uniqueness of this interaction that differs on a regional basis: “People, specifically those who live

Photo: Manabu Miyazaki

Darwin‘s

Kultur

Photo: Cai Guo-Qiang White Tone, 2016 © Cai Guo-Qiang

Quality No. 54/55 – Juli bis Aug. 2016

close to nature, strongly orient themselves to the sounds, movements and dances of the animals. They all imitate the songs and rhythms of the animals. The sound of a people from Borneo is extremely different to that of people from Sumatra.“ For Bernie Krause, the Biophonia – the technical term – is a constant source of inspiration and devotion to the animals, which last but not least are often threatened by humans, meaning they could eventually be completely silenced, and he stresses how: “Over the decades that I have recorded animal sounds, they have changed considerably. Due to global warming, spring now begins two weeks earlier than it did 20 years ago. This is the same the entire world over. The seas rise and islands disappear. Alaska is changing extremely quickly, and birds will settle all of a sudden that the Eskimos have never seen before, let alone have a name for. This has happened over about five years, which is extremely fast. This is our fault. And it has changed the Orchestra of Animals. Suddenly animals sing together that have never sung together before. It can take thousands of

Photos: Wen-You Cai

Nighthawks: Manabu Miyazaki specialises in “photography traps” so that he can show animals at night. Including smaller incidents! Photo: Manabu Miyazaki

Kultur Quality No. 54/55 – Juli bis Aug. 2016

years until the animals find their own musical niche and can create new harmonious interactions.“ In Paris, the Fondation Cartier has provided the curatorial framework for the exhibition “The Great Animal Orchestra”. Here, you will find a combination of paintings and Krause‘s acoustic work, which is a classical Symphony in terms of its complexity and emotion: „The animals have their acoustic place in the timeline according to Darwin‘s theory of evolution. For example, in the rain forest: The insects first start to sing at about 1:00 in the morning, then the amphibians at 3:00, then the birds at 4:30, and then the mammals. Following this order, the animals have determined their re-

spective niche over a very long period of time, a niche in which they can sing and blend with the overall acoustics. Is there a conductor? No. Some people would say this is a concept created by God, but I don‘t believe in God, that‘s why I don‘t have this problem.“ The first major exhibition of this sound treasure is complemented by visual art, providing a multifaceted creative confrontation with the parallel universe of the animals. Contemporary artists such as Hiroshi Sugimoto, Moke, Christian Sardet, Manabu Miyazaki, Cai GuoQiang, like Bernie Krause, use animals as their subject to focus on the interplay between art and science. While Manabu Miyazaki meticulously captures the flight of birds at night with „Photography traps“, the Chinese Cai Guo-Qiang created a unique piece of work for “The Great Animal Orchestra”: 17 metres in length, he created a kind of prehistoric cave painting, the picture language of which was completed by using explosive gun-

Kultur Quality No. 54/55 – Juli bis Aug. 2016

Foto: Luc Boegly

At the Fondation Cartier, the English collective of United Visual Artists has put Bernie Krause’s animal voices into a visual setting.

From left to right: Lambert Wilson, Bernie Krause and his wife Katherine Krause at the opening of the exhibition “The Great Animal Orchestra“ in Paris.

powder portraying animals who unite around a watering hole. The English collective of United Visual Artists, however, worked directly with Krause’s acoustic composition and developed a three-dimensional electrical installation that transforms parts of his symphony into light particles and visualizes the complex vocalisation of the animal musicians forming the exhibition. An exhibition that is as harmonious as a well-rehearsed Orchestra, but where, for a change, animals play the starring role.

Foto: Julien Hekimian

lucky you Life is what you make it, but why not help it a little along the way? This can be achieved with one of the Amulette de Cartier pieces. These valuable lucky charms are pricey talismans, made using the rarest stones and most luxurious materials. With a sparkling diamond as an eye-catcher in the centre, it will embellish any wearer with simple elegance. This collection is a truly lucky find. www.cartier.com

Breakwater The Red Carpet Collection 2016 by Chophard has definitely caused a stir. The pieces have been worn by world famous actresses on the legendary carpet of the Palais des Cannes Film Festival and merge infinite creativity with high-quality craftsmanship of the fine Swiss jewellery brand. These extraordinary white gold earrings feature brilliant cut 21.9 carat topaz gemstones, 17 carat sapphire cabochon and radiant blue and orange sapphires. With this breathtaking collection, Chopard is not swimming in the stream, but riding on a perfect wave. www.chopard.com

Jewelry Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Mermaid‘s treasure The infinite depths of the ocean have been a source of fascination since the beginning of time. The legendary Blue Book Collection by Tiffany & Co. is inspired by the deep waters and has made the hearts of all jewellery lovers thump year-upon-year for the last 179 years. It includes breath-taking jewellery pieces originating from the head designer Francesca Amfitheatrof‘s visions. This collection features the most magnificent gemstones and the most precious diamonds, bringing treasures from the depths of the ocean to mind through their colouration and workmanship. One of the most eye-catching pieces is the monumental necklace, made from over 1500 gemstones, including tourmalines, sapphires and tanzanites. Take a deep breath! www.tiffany.com

every rose has its torn Roses are the ultimate symbol of love, but even the most beautiful rose will eventually whither. With this ring, Christian Dior offers women a flower that will never lose its beauty. On this delicate ring made of gold, Christian Dior flaunts their lucky star and favourite flower – an elegant rose. The symbol is surrounded by turquoise, adding a touch of summer, sun and sand to this sophisticated jewellery piece. www.dior.com

MASQUERADE The prize-winning feather artist Nelly Saunier has united the sophisticated skills of the Piaget craftsmen with Venice‘s magical aura in this emblematic Piaget cuff bracelet. The alternating feathers are arranged to form a radiant flower, adorning a white gold band. In the middle of the Turkish and midnight blue feather flower an emerald emerges, surrounded by diamonds and sapphires. This luxury eye-catcher recollects magnificent carnival masks and kidnaps the wearer into the magical world of Serenissima. www.piaget.com

EXHIBITIONS Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Vision Robert La Roche‘s story could, without doubt, serve as a template for a classic Hollywood movie. As an advertising salesman, the Austrian worked for renowned companies until the 1980s, when he himself assembled a small team and produced stylish accessories from optical defective vision corrections – a start-up success story long before the term start-up was coined. Vienna is currently hosting the inaugural exhibition of the designer and his styledefining glasses that he designed for Dior and Carrera, among others. Those who wait until the closing event can, by the way, ask La Roche himself “Which model is right for me?” Don‘t miss it! Robert La Roche: Personal View 4 May to 25 September 216 Museum of Applied Arts, Vienna

scanned Whether it’s Vincent van Gogh or Robert Mapplethorpe: Flowers are among the allegorical motifs by which artists of all ages have been fascinated and from which they have drawn inspiration. Luzia Simons also deals with the ephemeral beauty and uses the latest photographic technology to interpret them in her style of communication. The French-Brazilian resident of Berlin scans their motifs faithfully by scanning them slowly with light and making conversions into data algorithms. The result: an improbable brilliance and surreal intensity of supposedly disordered flowers, which are currently to be admired in the precisely designed garden of the National Archives in Paris – artful chaos coinciding with French perfection. Luzia Simons: Stockage – vanitas rerum 3 June to 18 September 2016, National Archives, Paris

EXHIBITIONS Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

@broad Los Angeles is usually considered the epicentre of the film industry, but for some time the Californian metropolis has been talked about for its vibrant arts scene. The best evidence: the new Museum of Contemporary Art, “The Broad”. With its first major exhibition on Cindy Sherman, the new culture hotspot is making a statement this summer to established art centres. “Imitation of Life” presents older and more recent works by the acclaimed photographer, who repeatedly portrays herself and, with her work, makes controversial subjects of discussion such as sexuality, violence and pop culture her themes. A new highlight in the City of Angels! Cindy Sherman: Imitation of Life 11 June to 2 October 2016 The Broad, Los Angeles

fashion Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Selfie d’Art Marni, in collaboration with the Swedish artist Ekta, is showing us that art is not exclusive to museums. The key element is the side profile head silhouette, which exists in different colours, materials and graphic characters in the collection. The collection‘s simple, chic blouse is graced with an artistic side profile and makes an unconventional frame for the art out of the wearer. www.marni.com

hot stuff Whether it be for a private pool party, a beach bar or a luxury spa getaway: this hot one-piece by Andres Sarda makes any problem zones disappear with its sex appeal and transforms any beach promenade into a cat walk, lined with envious glances. Worn with an over-sized sun hat and black XL sunglasses, it guarantees the perfect entrance. www.rigbyandpeller.de

Full speed ahead! Louis Vuitton is sending their models out to sea with their Spring/Summer collection. Sport shorts and stripped shirts – everything with the colour combination of marine blue, red and white. This look is for no ordinary seaman! www.louisvuitton.com

fashion Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

Splish Splash Summer time is bathing time. With Acne Studios new swimming shorts for men, itâ€˜s no longer only women who will shine in their swimsuits and bikinis. The all-over pattern reflects the azure blue of the sea and makes a fashionable eyecatcher out of these laid-back shorts. www.acnestudios.com

DEEP BLUE Head designer Massimo Giogetti dives into deep water with his summer collection and transforms his models into urban mermaids. Fish nets and maritime patches are omnipresent in this collection and look like exclusive driftwood pulled out from the depths of the seven seas. The pieces will build your appetite for summer, sun and most of all the sea! www.emiliopucci.com

Culture Quality No. 52/53 – Apr. bis Jun. 2016

Art in front of Manhattan skyline: Currently, visitors look forward to a ruinous villa on the roof of the Metropolitan Museum of Art .

OnTop A

British artist Cornelia Parker’s installation, inspired by Alfred Hitchcock's film " Psycho".

by Antonia Ostersetzer

little house on the roof of a much bigger one? In these parts, childhood memories of Astrid Lindgren‘s classic “Karlsson-on-the-Roof” will spring to mind, but by no means did the British artist Cornelia Parkers have children‘s fairy tales in mind. “Transitional Object (Psycho Barn)” is the reproduction of a film set, in true façade style. If you automatically think of a classic horror film when you see the red Georgian villa, you are right. Parks modelled her work using inspiration from one of the most famous thrillers: the decaying house from Alfred Hitchcock‘s film “Psycho”. Where Norman Bates and his mother produced legendary films through their cataclysmic obsessions, a stable scaffolding is now hiding behind Cornelia Parkers‘ closed doors. For the past 19 years, the “Met‘s roof-garden series” has been in place, using the huge exhibition area of the world-famous New

Culture Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Classic haunted house: Cornelia Park’s object is visible even from Central Park!

Foto: Alex Fradkin

Photo: Alex Fradkin

Those who sit down for a sunset drink on the terrace of the Metropolitan Museum of Art can enjoy a fantastic view over Manhattan – and of Cornelia Parkers‘ newest installation: a classic haunted house.

York museum as an Open-Air-Space. This year, Parkers created a fascinating installation which originally – just like Hitchcock‘s film villa – was based on Edward Hoppers 1925 “House by the Railroad” picture and which offers an exciting contrast to the modern and urban surroundings. In her artwork, Cornelia Parkers plays with an emotional mixture of nostalgia, familiarity and absolute shock. She is above all well-known for her material obsession – the Brit crushes, strains and explodes her working materials with dedication. “Transitional Object (Psycho Barn)”, on show until the end of October, on the other hand, is made from old slats of a plain, red barn. Nevertheless, the over-sized house-on-top-of-house installation artistically plays with the limits between reality and fiction, between comfort and horror. Who would expect to see that over the rooftops of the posh Fifth Avenue? 41

Mio Dio

Everyone knows them, many have visited them and looked up at them reverently. The dome of St. Peterâ€˜s Basilica is one of the most important cultural assets of Italy and is an artistic masterpiece. For this yearâ€˜s Salone di Mobile, two designers were inspired by the world famous architecture to produce a lamp modelled in detail after the imposing church dome. Made of polyurethane resin in an edition of only 15 copies, the artwork will brighten any room in an almost heavenly way â€Ś Mio dio! www.studioamebe.com

yellow yellow

The Bouroullec brothers are all the rage with designers following their collaboration with Vitra. The clean designs of the French are cutting-edge and are attractive, above all, due to their simple refinement. The best evidence: the new table for Glasitalia, which is cast solidly from a mass of liquid glass. But a summery lightness results due to the complete transparency and the mouth-blown legs. A typical Bouroullec! www.glasitalia.com

Interior Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

Rock-paperscissors panta rhei

Itâ€˜s common knowledge that glass is made from melted down sand. But if one consciously allows the fluid material to solidify at this moment, the process seems never completed. The Swedish Studio E.O. uses this effect for its Indefinite Vases, which act organically and at the same time very statically. The contrast between vase and stone base creates a fragile-solid compound which provides an elaborate staging for each flower. www.studioeo.se

Wallpaper has long since lost its outdated image. Personalised wallpaper, graphic patterns and vintage ornaments: those who still think highly of their interior design cover at least one wall with the trendy designs. NLXL has now raised the bar a little higher and offers high-quality wallpapers that represent deceptively real marble, stone or wood. Coolness made in America. www.nlxl.com

1001 dreams

Which exotic tales will be conjured up from this divan? The Daydreamer by carpet designer Jan Kath is sure to invite long siestas and heavenly daydreams. The knotted wool and silk mattress is enthroned on a cowhide grate and shimmers in the most beautiful colours of the Orient. Whether in India or in the living room at home - nowhere can one relax more peacefully on hot summer days. www.jan-kath.de

Food Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sept. 2016

Damn right,

it’s better than yours by Antonia Ostersetzer

Kelis sang it metaphorically, but in Black Tap there is agreement: Milkshakes are actually an underrated art form. Taller, sweeter and more colourful is the credo of the new dessert mecca of the Big Apple.

ronuts were yesterday. If, as a trend-conscious New Yorker these days, one imagines a sweet treat, it is probably the queue stretching around the block in front of Black Tap in SoHo. In addition to homemade burgers and – how could it be otherwise – craft beers, it is primarily the spectacularly concocted milkshakes which have garnered media attention since its opening in March 2015 and lured fascinated customers in droves. They have names like Cotton Candy, Sour Power, U Bet Chocolate or Sweet‘n Salty and promise nostalgic childhood memories of times when a goodie bag of sweets held the best surprises in the world. In Black Tap, Joe Isidori twins this retro feel with sweet milk-mix drinks. The USA is milkshakes, and milkshakes are the USA. Nowhere else are the thick drinks, where milk is traditionally mixed with chocolate, strawberry or vanilla ice cream, more popular. Unforgotten is the film Grease, in which Danny (John Travolta) and Sandy (Olivia Newton-John) meet in a classic diner one evening in 1959 in order to share, in all innocence, a milkshake. With pastel colours from

Food

Photo: Nick Solares

Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

the 1950s, presented like a Disney film, Black Tap brings the original American shakes out from their dusty corner and gives them new lustre through ridiculous productions. In keeping with the Academy Awards, goldcoloured decoration and mini Oscar statuettes adorn a special shake, and the fragile drapes vary depending on the season, holiday or sports event. How best to pierce the large cup is a hotly discussed topic at Black Tap, which has also been represented in the Meatpacking District since last autumn. Best is from the bottom up and as fast as possible, so that the popular decoration does not melt away. Here, cookies, shiny sprinkles and syrup balance far above the rim of the glass on top of a mass of cream and ice cream. Over the top, in the truest sense of the word. A sugar-sweet craziness, which families, hipsters and tourists await equally with eyes glued to the dessert, which is the absolute main event at Black Tap despite the award-winning burgers â€“ with an estimated calorie count of 1600. But who looks at nutrition tables on the colourful shakes? With his fully charged milkshakes, Joe Isidori has scored a direct hit, but it is hardly surprising that the New Yorker understands that his product should be staged with a lot of fanfare. After all, he once worked as a private chef for Donald Trump.

Photos Milkshakes: Black Tap

More than burger & beer: Guests queue in long lines in front of Black Tap mainly because of the milkshakes known throughout the city.

Beauty Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

La vie en rose

Humidity is the key to beautiful skin. The silky gel texture of the Liftessence Cellularose Global Serum from By Terry sinks in quickly and solution to the needs of demanding skins. With natural rose cells and bellis perennis extract, the heavenlysmelling, revitalising cream fills the skinâ€˜s pores and leaves you with a healthy glow. It is the ideal SOS help with anti-ageing effects for a tired complexion.

Photo: Marco Rothenburger | Model: Franziska Dittmann

www.byterry.com

cool down

Sunshine all day long! Pleasantly cool down after sunbathing with the After Sun Cooling Gel from Mario Badescu. With soothing aloe vera and mint, the ultra-light after-sun leaves sun-damaged skin feeling soft and soothed. Your healthy tan will keep for longer with the moisturising properties of rose. A heavenly-smelling beauty therapy for summer! www.mariobadescu.com 46

Beauty Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Diamond fever

Breakfast a Tiffany‘s? Sparkling jewellery is the highlight of any décolleté. But who would have thought, that diamond powder could actually be a super food and glamour-provider for skin? The moisturising Pink Diamond Body Soufflé from Rodial indulges the skin with diamond powder and has a skinlifting effect. Pleasant side-effect: precious stones could possibly have a positive, harmonising effect on the spirit and soul. Om ...! www. rodial.co.uk

Embedded in roses

Clouds of silk chiffon, sophisticated silhouettes, magnificent details – the fairy-tale dream gowns from Elie Saab stand for distinction, extravagance and breath-taking glamour. It is precisely this radiance of opulent Haute-Couture creation by the celebrated designer that Eau de Toilette Rose Couture reflects. Notes of blossoming chypre, silky petals and majestic rose have been treated with delicacy to form this subtle floral composition by the French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian. A pastel pink, lively cocktail in the iconic Elie Saab bottle. The smell of summer! www.eliesaab.com

Travel Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

Holy

Halls

Prague is one of the European capital cities which is worth exploring on foot. It is rare that a city is able to maintain such a closed historical ensemble, whilst being suitable for film sets, like dolls houses, at the same time. by Susanne Filter 48

Travel Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Luxury with history: The individual interior of Mandarin Oriental Prague is dedicated to the monastery, which once housed the masonry.

umerous historical films were made here, and at times visitors can feel like they are taking part in a journey through time. It would therefore seem reasonable to find a hotel that will provide for these emotional aspects. The exclusive Mandarin Oriental Group has opened a spectacular hotel in the wall of a monastery dating back to the 14th century in Prague‘s old town. They created a little hotel gem from the forgotten-about building ruins, with great sensitivity and consideration given to the colourful past of the building. The cloisters are completely integrated into the hotel building and have been accentuated with special lighting designs and delicate decorations. Some rooms are smaller than expected, but in return others are much more generous. The design emphasis has been placed on the strong individuality and atmospheric qualities of the building, rather than adhering to room size – or any other norms. The Mandarin Oriental Group is renowned for making each of the group‘s hotels very unique to its setting. There is therefore no classic recognition effect with the interior, as with many other hotel groups. The only common feature is the outstanding quality of their bar service and restaurant, along with other country-specific features. For example, one of their little gimmicks in Prague is to offer not only wine, but also special beer tasting.

In the foundation walls of the attached former church, they have built a spa with a unique atmosphere. It is often said that sacred rooms have a special aura, which apparently the Dalai Lama said he noticed here upon visiting these rooms. The yoga and very exclusive spa treatments make it a special experience. Apart from London, the Mandarin Oriental Prague is the group‘s only hotel in Europe, which has been working on cosmetic treatments with the Australian brand of natural cosmetics Gaylia Kristensen since 2011. The founder of the brand, of the same name, developed her product line to treat her dry and stressed skin from the Australian climate with natural and very intensive treatment. Gaylia Kristensen‘s exclusive treatment and high performance products are so well designed that they show quick and visible results. They combat ageing using pure ingredients from plants and molecular peptides. There are even guests who travel to the hotel just to have the UTOPIA Advanced Anti-Ageing Facial Treatment. It is said to work true miracles. You should definitely take some time to visit Prague and the Mandarin Oriental. It‘s time to slow down. 49

travel Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Style on wheels Design, travel technology and smart services all rolled into a 55-centimetre-high suitcase - all this can be found at the Berlin bag brand Horizon Studios. The “trolleyt” is perfect for the jet set lifestyle. The travel suitcase – available in three different colours - may not be able to book flights or point the way, but certainly is smart. The integrated charging station can charge any portable device through the USB port and with the built-in GPS transmitter, the rolling companion will never get lost. The light suitcase is bursting with high-tech material technology, as it is made using 100% German-made durable polycarbonate. The front pockets are made from luxurious leather. And for those who still think it is not first class enough, they have the option of buying the cabin baggage in the exclusive gold edition with sparkling gold details. Fly smart, fly safe. www.horizn-studios.com

travel Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

BON VOYAGES! The quilted-look trolley from Chanel will definitely put the bearer in one place: the limelight. As part of their special show installation in true airport-style, this piece will attract envious glances – and not just from the front row. This piece of luggage is THE eye-catcher on every baggage conveyor belt and will make every trip a first-class experience. www.chanel.com

SPRING BREAK The new travel companions from Louis Vuitton are an homage to the unique Esprit in Palm Springs. The 3 classic models – Speedy, Keepall and Pégase - have been revamped in the new Capsule Collection “Tropical Journey”. With the palm tree leaf print, you’ll get that California feeling from the moment you start packing. Cool travel accessories which make a true lifestyle statement. www.louisvuitton.com.com

Motion Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Mini space,

maxi demands Automobile manufacturer Mini demonstrates like no other how to showcase the highest level of quality in a small space. The logical extension of the ”Creative Use of Space”: Contemporary living within 30 square metres. by Susanne Filter

The “Do Disturb” installation is an original concept from the Japanese Architecture Studio ON Design Partners.

Motion Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

iving and working in mega cities around the world is more popular than ever. At the same time, the available space is becoming smaller, less and also more expensive. A seemingly insurmountable hurdle, especially for young people. Cohabitation in residential communities is no longer just a model of and for students which is chosen exclusively for a very brief period. This is becoming an increasingly long-term concept, which is accompanied by significantly higher demands on the quality of living. New designs by housing companies or architects, which meet these constraints and demands, have until now been rare. Even more exciting is the discussion and installation entitled “Do Disturb” launched by Mini, which was first presented as part of the Milan Salone del Mobile 2016. This is a residential-sharing concept that is as creative as it is purpose-oriented, and that logically thinks one step ahead when it comes to trends like car-pooling. The person who seeks the model apartment notices that Mini has remained faithful to its core competence through its stylish installation, because interestingly, the design requirements for a Mini were and are the same as for newly designed urban housing: maximum design, small available area in square metres, but great sense of space, optimal use and with no loss of function. With its successful models on four wheels, Mini has long since proven that a focused approach can turn all these demands into reality. By offsetting the engine, the driver compartment of the Mini has considerably more space, while the car still remains small and therefore suitable for driving in large cities. A modern concept with future potential. The solution of the Japanese Architecture Studio ON Design Partners, with the cooperation of the Berlin engineering firm Arup, seems similarly charming as it is simple. Large areas can be disassembled in modules and can always be modified again by using an effective lightweight construction.

Particularly impressive is the completely transformation of space and configuration, which resolves the contradiction between privacy and community. So almost all storage spaces, kitchen elements and home technology, visible and invisible, are partly integrated into the walls. The space is thereby more generous and more structured. Also right at the cutting edge is furniture, which has multiple uses and can be used by various residents. Apart from the individual rooms, which have a sophisticated, modern design, the main focus is on the communicative common areas, which can be transformed through the use of flexible shelf elements depending on space. These are modern design tricks which can resolve the increasing lack of housing in large cities and the question of social communities. Since “Do Disturb” is a concept, architects could, moreover, be forgiven for having created more decorative storage spaces without considering that women need a lot of space for clothes, cosmetics and shoes. But it could work ...

Grüezi R

oadsides lined with oleanders and lavish bougainvillea, peppered with numerous palm trees. It would appear as though God‘s green fingers selected this part of the world to be adorned with lavish and lush vegetation. Whether on the Swiss or Italian side, Lago Maggiore is a beautiful place to live. Ascona, which has been a hotspot for international jet setters since the 90s, may have become a little quieter, but it has certainly not lost any of its charm. It is therefore no surprise that this place is being rediscovered. Entrepreneurial families like the Frutigers, owners of the Giardino Hotel Group, are contributing not only by offering perfect 5-star hotels, but by driving innovation. They acquired this beautiful, historic hotel from the well-known Swiss hotelier Hans C. Leu in 2006. He was the first person to make a hotel icon of the Albergo Giardino, in which many jet setters spent a few days or even their whole holidays. In those days, the rooms were decorated with plush, romantic, pink charm and there were times when the hotel boss would even go and personally pick a guest up from the train station on his Harley-Davidson. One time when he was picking an over 80-year-old woman up, she kept telling him to go faster and once they arrived she got off the motorbike and said: “You know, that was very erotic ...” After the renovations, the rooms acquired a modern, Mediterranean charm and the hotel become known for its outstanding cuisine. For the second time, just recently, the spacious complex accommodated the German national football team in preparation for the UEFA Euro 2016. However, innovation stands for much more than just perfecting all the standards of the 5-star hotel. Mrs Frutiger particularly wants to develop the spa and the hotel‘s new Ayurveda concept. An Ayurveda specialist with international experience was hired to develop a new type of concept, which would be authentic but also conform to the modern western 5-star philosophy. Umesh Tejasvi, an Ayurveda expert from southern India, is a well-known instruc-

India by Susanne Filter

tor and author in Switzerland. Giardino Ascona was the perfect breeding ground for him to familiarise guests with the authentic, simple and pleasurable concept of Ayurveda. Whether it be the Vata, Pitta or Kapha dosha, first a full medical history is required to ensure that the 3-day or week-long treatment will have the desired effect. Sesame oil mouth rinse, acid-base balance tests, special teas and juices in the rooms - nothing goes amiss for the perfect Ayurveda treatment. For those who prefer a more easy-going version, there‘s also Ayurveda light. The highly-qualified and wellequipped staff do their utmost to cater for every individual guest‘s needs. One impressive feature is that they show you how to integrate the Ayurveda philosophy into your daily life. To do so, they do not only use Indian ingredients and herbs on the menu, but also local alternatives to give the guests the opportunity to implement Ayurveda in their daily lives. Food is served in the hotel restaurant, where both normal and Ayurveda guests can eat side-by-side. Special teas are served in large red wine glasses and the appetising, individually prepared and adapted meals leave nothing to be desired. In a peaceful corner of the large garden there is a permanent

a! yoga marquee, which looks up to the lush vegetation on sunny days, accentuated by the lively chirping of birds, to be used for both yoga and meditation sessions. Experience a little piece of India in Ticino. The concept has much potential for the future, because it offers a simple path to a healthy Indian philosophy and lifestyle, without being confronted with insuperable doctrines. This lifestyle has been particularly popular amongst women, who can enjoy this holiday with their partner, even if said partner does not wish to miss out on wine and lavish food themselves. Long live the diversity and freedom of choice.

fitness Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

perfect

Why not invest in your favourite hobby for once and offer yourself a pretty piece of equipment? Sometimes a little treat is enough to give us that motivational boost. In this stylish yoga outfit from Live The Process, those greetings to the sun will be even more fun. The two-piece in the jazzy colour block style is the ultimate yogini‘s outfit and will fit any Asana. No more excuses now!

fit

www.livetheprocess.com

sweating beauty Tighter body, top attitude towards life and more energy: yoga is a major trend. Whether it‘s Vinyasa, Ashtanga or Kundalini – not only it places the body in a tranquil, meditative state, but also gives you a more defined silhouette. Yoga can easily make you break a sweat – and for that reason it is particularly important that clothing should not only be comfortable, but functional too. This lemon-yellow sports duo by Lucas Hugh is not only stylish, but will also suit every movement. Incredibly practical for when you are practising dynamic power yoga positions: whether it be for a headstand, the crow or a scorpion – with this, everything will stay where it should. UMMM! www.lucashugh.com

fitness Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Strike a pose Sportswear has not just become really popular, but also suitable for daily life. Gone are the days when it was a fashion faux pas to run to the bakers in your yoga pants. Athleisure is the magic word that has long since been on every fashionista‘s tongue. With this sexy outfit from Monreal London, you will not only look in good form during Pilates, you will also be fashionably dressed for a post-workout lunch. www.monreallondon.com

Flying Carpet Breathe in, breathe out – yoga harmonises the body, soul and breath. Thoughts drift away, movement and breathing fuse together. Yoga balances the yin and yang – the harsh and gentle: a marvellous opportunity to switch off your mind and leave your everyday stress behind. Preferably on a yoga mattress by Magic Carpet – with their imaginative patterns they are so beautiful that you will never want to get up! www.magiccarpetym.com

good vibrations Water is the basis of all things. The “Flower of Life” water bottle from Soulbottles is a declaration of love for life. The bottle has a flower of life, real gold imprinted decoration, which stands for the zest for life and energy that a mouthful of water can give us. For a holistic yoga lifestyle. www.soulbottles.de.com

Apps Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

Summertime often also coincides with travel. So that your next holiday is as relaxed as possible, we have collected together a few apps that will assist you in (almost) all case scenarios..

app in the air Do you want a personal air travel assistant? With App in the Air you can schedule your check-in, boarding, start and landing time and share it with partners, friends or family. Quick links for ordering taxis, weather info and practical tips from other travellers make every trip a special experience.

sunscreen Holiday season, sun, pool, beach. Since sunscreen can be forgotten. The Sunscreen App reminds you to apply sunscreen regularly. The following applies: It is better to apply it more frequently than more thickly. Say goodbye to sunburn.

field trip Field Trip is THE guide for cool, interesting and hidden places in the vicinity. Travelling in a foreign city, the app displays real secret tips and attractions that abound in the surrounding area. So the next city trip takes on a whole new meaning.

asana rebel A little energy boost for in between? Use the yoga app Asana Rebel to practice greeting the sun at home and when travelling. The ideal balance for a turbulent daily routine or simply for a perfect start to the day.

mobito The ideal app for organising private car sharing is Mobito. With a logbook, fuel calculator and vehicle location, it makes sharing vehicles easy.

packing pro If the next trip is approaching, Packing Pro is a useful helper. With detailed checklists included, this app supports you not only when packing, but also helps you remember your visa or rental car booking - and ensures that you do not forget anything important.

Photography by Warren & Nick

PERRIER-JOUËT, THE ALLURING CHAMPAGNE Since its foundation in 1811, the champagne house Perrier-Jouët has crafted elegant, floral wines of rare finesse with a Chardonnay hallmark. The elegance of the cuvees echoes that of the Art Nouveau anemones adorning the Belle Epoque bottle and offers moments of pure delight and beauty. www.perrier-jouet.com

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY 2

Accessoires Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

The perfect wave It went „chirp“! Who would have thought that there could be any analogies between Einstein‘s Theory of Relativity and fashion? But then when Karl Lagerfeld comes into it, you can see the sense! On behalf of Fendi, this avid reader sought inspiration from gravitational waves and can easily provide an answer to the question of what luxury looks like in traditional fashion houses in the 21st Century. Individual, extravagant and perfectly hand-made. At least we can agree on one thing: the Dotcom Click statement bag in quilted leather is a real miniature work of art! www.fendi.com

Flying high Hand on heart, ladies: who wouldn‘t like to have longer legs? Head up. Straight back, tummy in – it never does any harm to be higher off the ground: fashionistas now want to fly high. If that outfit needs to look sexy and grown-up, then leather heels by Jimmy Choo with a striking python pattern are the perfect pair to make a bold entrance. These eye catchers in blue go with every look and make even the simplest jeans outfit look glamorous. And wearing these gems of shoes makes you magically several centimetres taller: Hello models‘ legs á la Karlie Kloss! www.jimmychoo.com

Hair ornaments Competition for the wreath of flowers. It‘s hardly surprising that hairbands have progressed to being a beauty favourite. These hair ornaments lend every hairstyle a touch of glamour – and give a sophisticated upgrade to casual outfits. The elegant version of the headband – such as in 3.1 Phillipp Lim in a cool mesh-effect – is a hairstyling star. How do you style the must-have elite bandeau? Place it directly on the brow and hairline over the centre parting and tie both ends in a loose knot under the ponytail. Et voilà! www.31philliplim.com

Design Quality Magazin No. 25 – September 2012

Kiss Kiss Bang Bang Life is too short for boring accessories. So it‘s OK for keyrings and bags to rock. Very laid back: the IT accessory by Prada – an eye-catching keyring with a fun kissy lips motif. It works just as well for a bunch of keys as it does as a fun upgrade for smart everyday bags: just clip it onto the handle, zip or closure – and pull in the glances. Bye-bye foxtail generation. www.prada.com

Well feathered On the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week, Dries van Noten told us about the explosive love affair between Luisa Casati, the Marchesa di Roma, and the novelist Gabriele d´Annunzio. Just as passionate and affectionate as their affair in the 20th century is the collection of this Belgian designer. Eccentric, loud and expressive – just what we have come to expect from this darling of the avant-garde. The best example of this: the feather necklace with smoky glamour which captures perfectly the interplay of masculine and feminine. Don‘t think about it too much; just want to create a unique look straight off? This is effortless with a neckpiece by Dries van Noten. www.driesvannoten.com

Shops Quality No. 52/53 – Apr. bis Jun. 2016

For one summer only No place on earth evokes that feeling of summer, glamour and nonchalance more than Saint Tropez. If you stroll down the picturesque streets and pastel coloured houses of the fishing village made famous by Brigitte Bardot and Co., you will be encountered by incomparable French charm. You know that summer is just around the corner every year, at the very latest, when Chanel announces that the gates to their temporary summer quarter in the wonderful Gründerzeit-Villa, La Mistralée, are open. Antique doors open the way to fitting rooms. Light floods in from the glass roof, deck chairs and the pool in the garden offer relaxation. In the elegant rooms near the old port, the brand displays its ready-to-wear collection, high-quality jewellery and legendary accessories. The pop-up store is open beneath the palm trees until the 5 October. Shopping could not be any more idyllic! www.chanel.com

Très Français During the last production of the 69th edition of the Cannes film festival, the French luxury brand Dior will open a new boutique on Boulevard de la Croisette Nr. 7 – straight across the road from the annual film festival venue. Under the shade of the palm trees, framed by timeless artworks, the prêt-à-porter creations and luxury accessories will be displayed on three floors. The new flagship store unites both the women‘s and men‘s collections under the same roof for the first time. The premises were designed by architect Peter Marino. The boutique will invoke the very special atmosphere of the historic Avenue Montainge Nr. 30 in Paris in the picturesque setting of Boulevards de la Croisette, with its emblematic grey and white exterior and the Ludwig XVI style chairs. Très jolie! www.dior.com

Shops Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Won Hundred fans will be happy: the Danish brand is opening its first flagship store abroad. The lifestyle label will be presenting itself in around 100m2 in Amsterdam‘s vibrant shopping mile Raadhuisstraat, with its exciting interior design. In contrast to its warm, wooden exterior, the store will invite its clients into a serene, sobering design. In the limelight of the industrial, chic design is the metal zigzag display area, upon which the classic shoes, accessories and styles of the brand are displayed in a minimalist fashion. On the blue wall an XXL graffiti of the Won Hundred label is brandished, and fluorescent tubes and mirrors create a purist ambience. Top-class shopping delight with Scandivian cool appeal! www.wonhundred.com

won in a million

MODERN MUSE Feminine elegance with a modern twist – the REDValentino fashion brand is staying true to its romantic, playful, youthful style with the design of their new flagship store in Rome. The interior design was drawn up by creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli together with the Parisian architect India Mahdavi. The boutique has been designed in typical Italian style. It retains the delicate rosé tone and is accentuated with brushed brass elements and a speckled Terrazzo floor. The 180m2 boutique on the picturesque Via del Baubino 61 in Rome‘s old town looks from the outside like a noble salon with lots of seating and its intimate and warm ambience. It‘s a mandatory address, not just for Romans! www.valentino.com

Culture Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Art

Phantom

His urban art attracts millions, but as to who he is, no one knows with any certainty. Banksy refuses to play a part in the art industry

and yet is still currently one of its biggest stars. The phantom phenomenon is currently causing quite a stir with an exhibition in Munich.

ur idea is to share the work. That’s the most important thing for us as collectors.” These were the words of Sarah Kronsbein upon opening the exhibition “Banksy – King of urban art” at the prestigious Kronsbein Gallery, where she is doing something that normally couldn’t be done. This is because the celebrated street artist Banksy, whose identity is still in question more than 20 years after the appearance of his first stencil graffiti in Bristol, does not cooperate with galleries. However, Sarah Kronsbein and her father, the former entrepreneur and Arts patron Dirk G. Kronsbein, have been collecting Banksy‘s art for many years. In 2002/2003, Banksy worked on screen prints, editions and commissions for and with a small circle of his followers, which meant some of his more transportable images went into circulation. “Collecting them is like going on a truffle hunt – when you first start, you‘re driven and you plan your route for going on such a quest. It

by Susanne Filter

Culture Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

You don’t have to go anywhere in order to understand the message.

establishes a connection to the artist, even if you don‘t know him,” explains Kronsbein. The private collection is now being exhibited to the public, and so, in a roundabout way, Banksy has put on a show in Germany comprising 40 works. Put together in Munich – a “city of graffiti” was the proud utterance of the former Mayor Christian Ude, in his opening speech. A statement that could be seen as somewhat ironic. Usually, the exhibition rooms for guerilla art pop stars are the streets of this world: New York, Hamburg, London – there is barely a metropolis now that is not the proud owner of a Banksy. In 2015, the King of Street art opened a bizarre amusement park in England called “Dismaland”, where he exhibited his own work and the works of other street artists. A parody on the candy-sweet Disney World, it saw more than 140.000 visitors and was a huge success, as is the case with all Banksy-related activities. Most of them take place overnight and are usually illegal. Until now, New York wanted to see the (presumably) British artist behind bars because of vandalism, yet collectors flock to the provocative and humorous graffiti that usually makes a socio-political statement within the context within which it’s created. Social injustice, homophobia, war, the refugee crisis, consumption, pop culture – zeitgeist and grievances are all concerns of Banksy and his stencil art is often accompanied by ironic and cynical comments. The 40-year-old normally hits the nail quite painfully on the head, and it is also this that inspired the Kronsbein family: „This humour and irony make you want to get involved, even if you don’t at first grasp the statement being made. Lots of people try to understand the work within the context of the place and the environment in which it originated. But it’ can also be understood detached from its environment, hanging in an exhibition. You don’t have to go anywhere in order to understand the message.” In the meantime, some iconic motifs, which follow in the tradition of pop artists like Andy Warhol, have been officially protected. Increasingly, acrylic glass walls have been raised between the open air art and its audience. It is a happy home owner who suddenly finds himself in ownership of a valuable Banksy. The question mark over his identity, culminating in the Oscar-nominated documentary „Exit Through The Gift Shop“ in 2010, was another major part of his amazing self-exposure and his success. 2

Banksy has always controlled where and to what extent his fascinating graffiti circulates. And the guerrilla artist has his own ideas about this, because it takes a mixture of vanity and humour to exhibit his works in famous museums such as the MoMA, the Tate Modern or even the Louvre without asking. To finance his many charity projects, Banksy now also produces editions in small quantities. To prove their authenticity, pound notes showing Lady Diana, which contain a serial number, are torn in half. One half is attached to the back of the image, the other kept in Banksyâ€˜s Office in England, meaning he has avoided counterfeiting, despite numerous street art free-riders. There are many mysterious theories about who exactly is behind the recurring bananas, the famous Mafia rat, the canoodling police officers or the manipulated Mona Lisa. And the theories keep on piling up, especially after a professional profiler did an analysis earlier this year, stating that the evidence suggests Banksy is Robert Cunningham from Bristol. However, other rumours also keep circulating. Banksy is perhaps a group of artists made up of several men or, depending on with whom you talk, women. Insider collectors must sign, by the way, to say they will not reveal who Banksy is ... or are. Banksy â€“ King of urban art @ Munich 14th April until 10th September 2016 Kronsbein Gallery, Munich

Streetart fan: Ex-Mayor Christian Ude opened the Banksy exhibition in Munich.

Corsets MARINA HOERMANSEDER Bikini bottoms E.A. SEAWEAR

CO COLOR BLIND COLOR COLOR BLIND COLOR BLIND

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ESTHER HAASE

OLOR BLIND BLIND COLOR BLIND D

Blouse: PAUL & JOE SISTER | Bikini Bottom: E.A. SEAWEAR

Necklace: NACH BIJOU | Panty: MONKI Bra: GANNI | Blouse: AND OTHER STORIES

Earrings INA BEISSNER

Dress PAUL & JOE

Body LOVE STORIES INTIMATES

Bathing suite PAUL & JOE

Fotografin: Esther Haase@Schierke Artists | Styling: Elke RĂźss@Liganord | Styling Assistentin: Esther Felten | Hair & Make-up: Claudia SchlifterÂ | Retouching: Annalena Rumler

„The artwork is not the material, with which the pontoons are covered. It is also the water, the people, the trees, the cliffs, the streets. They are all part of the work of art, which needs to be experienced physically. At best, walking barefoot“, is what the 81-year-old Christo has to say about his installation „The Floating Piers“ on lake Iseo in northern Italy.

Barefoot preferred 76

Routes can sometimes be much more than just a way of connecting point A to B, sometimes they can even be the goal themselves, provided that a host of special qualities await you. New pedestrian bridges and installations act as an antidote to the hustle and bustle of everyday life, and do more than simply encourage physical fitness. By rediscovering deceleration, you can enable all your senses. By Norman Kietzmann

„The Floating Piers“, however, weren’t exactly a contemplative sensual experience. During the sixteen days that the installation was open to the public, the aquatic art was stormed by nearly oneand-a-half million people - nearly three times as many as had been expected.

peed is our constant companion. With it, our perceptions have changed. Can you still remember what your way home was like? What were the streets, people, houses and trees like? What colour was the sky? And what shapes did the clouds make? Much of what we encounter in our everyday lives remains unnoticed or forgotten once we have reached our home. We have become detached from our environment, whether we happen to be in a car, a train or aeroplane. Protected by an artificial bubble, we chase about as if we live in tunnels, going from one place to the next. The subsequent alienation that goes hand-in-hand with this was well known to Goethe. In a letter to King Ludwig I of Bavaria, he wrote in 1827 about the accelerated rate of carriage traffic: “Mindless commodities are packed and travel speedily through the most beautiful of natural spaces. No longer does man discover countries. The fragrance of the plum tree remains resolutely distant (...)”. When a few years later the first railways travelled across the country, some contemporaries even feared negative effects on health. „Train journeys of more than 30 kilometres per hour would generate unfailingly serious brain disease in onlookers and travellers alike, a kind of delirium furiosum“, was the warning in 1835 from the Bavarian physician of advanced medicine. This oft-cited claim is indeed fictitious and was circulated by a historian in the late 19th century. But that is not to say there was not some scepticism for after all, man had never moved so quickly. And the question of what consequences this new flood of sensations would have, seemed more than justified.

Over time, we have become used to the speed. Instead of suffering a sensory overload as a result of landscapes quickly passing before us, the exact opposite happens in many cases. We bury ourselves in our smartphones, read emails and messages, and forget the landscapes and places we travel through. But this is precisely why a pocket of resistance has been forming in recent years. It is not just that we are trying to slow down everyday life with healthy food and sustainable products, it’s also that transportation should not be considered only in terms of saving time. New hiking trails, walkways and viewing platforms are seeing the light of day all over the world, encouraging movement with our own two legs. Detached from rolling and flying means of transport, it is not only blood circulation that’s promoted. The senses are activated all around – assuming the new passages provide the necessary thrills to prevent boredom in our speed-drenched contemporaries.

he „Paiva Walkway“ along the River Paiva in Portugal shows just what impressive sights there are to be seen. The eight kilometre trail leads past towering cliffs, waterfalls and hills and gives the opportunity to discover of different flora and fauna, from rich meadows and forests to sparsely moss-covered mountain slopes. The Portuguese engineering firm of Trimetrica has succeeded in creating a rare balancing act. To keep interference in the natural surroundings to a minimum, the construction of the wooden stairs, bridges and paths only required a few anchor points. At the same time they have created a spectacular experience, where views and sights line up as if they are sequences in a film. The result is a showcase of nature, which caresses all the senses and involuntarily throttles the pace. In a move away from tunnel vision, the Danish architects Johan Gjøde & Nils Povlsgaard have created the “infinite bridge” in Aarhus. The bridge doesn‘t actually connect any two points. Instead, it defines a closed-circuit that can be orbited again and again with 80

Through passages that lead to pausing, thinking, seeing, smelling, and hearing... and the passage of time for a brief moment.

Above: The „Paiva Walkway“ in Portugal leads past steep cliffs, waterfalls and hills. Right & below: The installation „Pont de Singe“ by the French artist Olivier Grossetête was created for the Tatton Park Biennale in Cheshire in Northengland.

At the same time, you are entering a place of social interaction with the other people on the bridge, who are experiencing the same panorama.

„Infinite Bridge“ created by the Danish architects Johan Gjøde & Nils Povlsgaard in Aarhus. „When you walk over the bridge, you experience the landscape as an infinite panoramic composition“, Johan Gjøde explains.

ever-changing vistas and viewing angles. „If you walk across the bridge, you‘ll find the landscape to be an endless panoramic composition. At the same time, you are entering a place of social interaction with the other people on the bridge, who are experiencing the same panorama”, as Johan Gjøde explains the concept.

he goal of the “Cirkelbroen” bridge, designed by the artist Olafur Eliasson in Copenhagen, is also to open up new ways. It owes its name ‘circular bridge’ to the construction of five intertwined spiral areas, forcing pedestrians and bicyclists to repeatedly change direction. „The bridge brings the people closer to the water

and entices them to switch to a slower speed and take a break,“ explains the Berlin-based artist, who has Danish and Icelandic roots. A few months after its opening last summer, the bridge was established as a meeting place and a quiet zone for contemplation in the middle of the city. A veritable spectacle can be seen from mid-June on Lake Iseo in Northern Italy. New York artist Christo, who wrapped up the Berlin Reichstag in 1995 and carried out “The Gates” project in New York Central Park in 2005, has created “The Floating Piers“ for his latest coup: visitors can walk along three kilometres of floating paths across the water to the islands of Monte Isola and San Paolo. „The work of art is not the material with which the piers are created. It is also the water, the people, the trees, the rocks, the streets. They are all part of the artwork – it is something that must be physically experienced... Best of all barefoot“, says the 81-year-old, who doesn’t have any furniture in his workshop and who likes to speak, think and draw standing up. From a contemplative sense experience, the “The Floating Piers“ are simply limited by language. In the end, the sixteen-day installation has been swarmed by nearly one and a half million visitors, almost three times as many as first expected. The effect of the experience was created in different ways. Walking on the slightly varying surface demanded a constant readjustment of balance, thus reinforcing the whole sensory perception. The ephemeral character of the major event led to an intensification of the experience, for things that are with us but fleetingly, must be considered all the more precisely.

hile also speaking of the appeal of the temporary, there is the installation „The Stairs“ created by the Dutch architecture firm MVRDV in Rotterdam. From May until June, visitors could climb a 180-stage scaffolding stair, which led to the roof of the Rotterdam Central station. The change in elevation from the street up to the observation deck is 29 metres, where the renowned cinema Kriterion has organised film evenings and events. „We wanted to show how this city could look if we allowed access to the roofs in a number of existing buildings and connected them as a second layer,“ says Winy Maas, cofounder of MVRDV. The bridge thus fulfils the role of a meta-

level, which provides access to hitherto unused zones and provides an impetus for new urban space. The French artist Olivier Grossetête has created an equally interesting work with his installation „Pont de Singe“ for the Tatton Park biennial in Cheshire, England. Not steel masts, but three white helium balloons are used as pylons in this suspension bridge. “The wind sets the balloons in motion and gives life to the building. The two ends of the bridge are placed in the water, so that they seem to emerge from another dimension and generate a strange mixture of mystery and clarity” explains the artist from Marseille. Even though the bridge can carry the weight of a person, the highlight of this design lies less in its practical function and more in the creation of a mind game. „What will happen when I go on it?“ This is one of the fears that steals involuntarily through my head when I gaze at this feather-light bridge that seems to overcome the laws of gravity. What unites these projects, is one thing above all else: roads and bridges are not only considered as an aid to get from A to B as quickly as possible. What matters is a stimulus of the senses. Through passages that lead to pausing, thinking, seeing, smelling, and hearing... and the passage of time for a brief moment. The only requirement is that a smartphone is only used to take photos. Whoever is unable of enjoying these stunning views without feeling a need to check emails, messages, and posts, should surely seek urgent medical attention!

From May through June visitors in Rotterdam were able to climb the 180 steps of a scaffolding stairway leading to the roof of that city’s main train station. The installation „The Stairs“ was developed by the Dutch architectural office MVRDV.

The bridge named „Cirkelbroen“ in Copenhagen was created by the artist Olafur Eliasson and derives its appellation „Circle bridge“ from its construction: five interconnected circular surfaces.

The bridge brings the people closer to the water and entices them to switch to a slower speed and take a break.

Photography arton sefa

Suit Etro, Shoes Santoni 86

Shirt Drykorn Coat Burberry Pants Paul Smith Sunglasses Givenchy Shoes Santoni

Pullover Ted Baker

Jacket Paul Smith

Coat Dries van Noten Carre HermĂ¨s Pants American Vintage 89

Jacket Stone Island Shirt & Pants American Vintage Shoes Santoni

Photo: arton sefa | Styling/Production: Oliver Rauh | Styling-assistance: Samir Abou-Suede Grooming: Evelyn Karbach / weinper & co | Hair: Mustafa Yanaz | Model: Sigurd Colsman/tune models

Coat & Pants Bally Shoes Santoni

Coat Bally Carré Hermès Shorts Guess 6

It must be really difficult for men to pick out a piece of jewellery for their wives, if they make their decisions based on completely different reasoning? Of course, also because of the style of the jewellery. Men are more and more commonly being guided by their wives. This has indeed always been the case. Women are very good at telling their husbands what they do and do not like - albeit sometimes indirectly.

When it comes to forgotten gemstones and old jewellery, Pierre Rainero is the best in his field. Like a sniffer dog, for over 30 years, Cartier‘s Image and Heritage Director has been tracking valuable diamonds and once decorative possessions of glamorous divas to their origins. New York City has played a particularly important role in this story, after all, it was on 5th Avenue, after daring to take the big leap across the pond precisely 100 years ago, that the founding father Pierre Cartier opened the present flagship store. The purchase price: 100 dollars and a pearl necklace. By Susanne Filter „Lord of the Rings“: Pierre Rainero, Image and Heritage Director of Cartier.

Do collectors buy jewellery as investments or as presents for, for example, their spouse? You could ask this question for all types of artwork. What is the motivation? Of course, there are people who find it exciting or thrilling to visit auctions and expositions. There are also many reasons as to why collectors - male or female - acquire jewellery. Women want to express their personality through jewellery. They collect them, because they are interested in each individual piece and associate particular feelings to them. Men, on the other hand, generally do not want to express themselves through jewellery, but have a particular reason for collecting. They know exactly which piece has which meaning and importance, and what statement it portrays. They know what differentiates them from other pieces of jewellery - the style, the era - and exactly why they need this jewel in their collection.

When did you first come into contact with precious stones like diamonds? Here at Cartier. The only diamonds that I had seen before were on my great- grandmother‘s, my grandmother‘s and my mother‘s engagement rings. I was very interested in the differences in the designs and styles of the various rings. Of course, they were all very different. My great-grandmother got married in 1900, my grandmother in 1933 and my mother in 1955. Does an analogy between architecture and jewellery design exist? Despite some overlaps, jewellery has more or less taken its own direction. Therefore, it cannot be fully compared to architecture - at the end of the day, they are objects you can wear. It is not necessarily only the art trends, which have influenced the design, but a much wider context. A friend of mine owns a modern, minimalist art gallery and she is now getting married for the second time. She is in her late 40s or early 50s. When she had to pick out her second engagement ring, she went for a completely different style than you would expect from her - this time it was to be a more organic ring. You can see that the personal expression of femininity differs greatly from her professional artistic perspective.

Mr Rainero, when did you first become interested in jewellery? It is rather unusual for a man. At the beginning I was not particularly interested in jewellery. However, I was really interested in objects and shapes. It was only later that this interest transferred to gemstones. The way that the light plays in them is a unique feature that cannot be found in other materials. You can never predict what a jewellery design will end up looking like, because as soon as the light hits the finished piece, it changes. Movement is important, as it is not only do people move jewellery around, but jewellery needs to be moved around to be fully appreciated. I love celebratory ceremonies. For example, when the queen is pictured wearing her tiara, she appears to be cloaked in a veil of light. That is why I think that jewellery is much more than just design.

Hundred Dollars and a pearl necklace

Reptile show: The Mexican actress María Félix (1914-2002) liked to appear in extravagant made-tomeasure outfits by Cartier.

Maisie Plant, second wife of billionaire Morton F. Plant, got what she most loved to have: the 500,000 $ pearl necklace â€“ in exchange for the property on Fifth Avenue.

right: Luxury goods for High Society: faĂ§ade of the Cartier store on 5th Avenue in New York, 1960. below: 100 years ago, Pierre Cartier (bottom right) introduced the Parisian jewellery establishment to New York. Cartier is still resident on the elegant Boulevard to this day.

Do cultural differences exist in regard to buying specific gemstones? What is the difference between Paris and New York today, and what was it before? I can explain this using engagement rings as examples. They were completely different 30 years ago than they are today. For example, diamonds were not important back then, you could use any type of stone. At some point, they pretty much became obligatory rather than a choice. It must have been the American influence, which decided this. In France, blue sapphires are more commonly chosen for engagement rings, diamonds are rarer. But the women in my family all wore diamonds. They stand for purity and are the most valuable stone. There must have been a time when it was frowned upon and shocking to wear such statement jewellery. Coloured jewellery with engraved stones were, for example, not popular. What we nowadays call Tutti Frutti was not at all acceptable back then. Lady Mountbatten was the first person to commission Cartier to make her unusual jewellery. She had a lot of money, as her grandfather was the treasurer of Edward VII and she became very rich through her marriage to Lord Mountbatten. She had unbelievable taste in jewellery and commissioned Cartier to make her a tiara made from engraved stones. It was very modern and shocked a lot of people. Is it still possible to shock people with unusual jewellery nowadays? Is it possible to commission personal jewellery that makes a modern statement? 94

CARTIER ARCHIVES ÂŠ CARTIER

Not without Cartier! In the 1950s, elegant pieces of jewellery were the darling of Hollywood.

Just like with any other form of art, it is difficult, because so many things have already been done. It is difficult to shock. So let us say surprise, instead of shock. Is it still possible to surprise nowadays? Yes, of course it is possible. There are many opportunities to surprise. In fact, I actually think that women do not push the limits enough. People want to be bold and fearless, but often are scared at the same time. Similarly, every celebrity has their own stylist or assistant these days, which does not exactly help, if you are trying to express your own personality. At the beginning of the 20th century, World War I broke out and in 1929 there was a severe financial crisis, how did that influence the market, comparing Europe and the USA?

If you look at the accounts from that period, it has to be said that Cartier only suffered a very short slump of around a couple of months. To a large extent, they did not lose money, rather their clientĂ¨le changed from one particular class of people to other people within the same class. In Europe, things were very different, in 1930/31 the crash reached Paris and by the beginning of the World War II, it still had not recovered. During this time, New York become more and more important for Cartier, and London, as ever. Cartier has always made political statements through jewellery, can you see this happening again in the future? Well, back then the circumstances were different. Of course, during World War II there were jewellery pieces, for example, like the symbolic golden birdcage, that we made at Cartier. Back then, Pierre Cartier was 95

Does Cartier also produce special pieces for big events, such as sports events? Yes, that is a long-standing tradition, it is about the symbolic power of objects. They are generally personalised items for individual people or for specific occasions. In 1969, French newspaper Le Figaro, for example, ordered something for the astronauts about Armstrong, who were coming on tour to Paris. A personalised gift in gold. Are there limits, where Cartier says: no, we are not making that. Yes, of course there are. We refuse, for example, to make weapon or pornographic designs. In September, the Cartier store in New York is reopening.

What will be new and which influences from the past will be retained? With our company philosophy, the future is very important, we want to stay relevant for future generations and we have kept this at the back of our minds in our new designs. We are completely obsessed with this. With the new jewellery pieces, it is not about representing the Cartier style, but rather always asking ourselves two questions: Is it beautiful? And: will it make someone desire it so much, that they have to have it? Does it correspond to the lifestyle that people live nowadays? Just to be beautiful is not enough. If a beautiful object from Cartier is not sold, we have failed, because it means that it does not fit people‘s lifestyles. The same goes for our shop. This time, we have given careful thought to what suits modern people and their lifestyles. Of course, our store has deep roots in the history of our company, as it has existed for over 100 years in the USA. But for us it is not about celebrating our own history, but rather about celebrating our history with New York, as our history is a typical New York story. Cartier is a chapter in the city‘s story. Before the renovations, the shop had two floors and now we will use the whole building as a sales floor. We wanted to adapt the original decoration of the old rooms, but with the new rooms, which had no history, we allowed ourselves free reign. On the upper floors, it is going to be more about the here and now. The top floor will be exclusively dedicated to contemporary Cartier objects and will present what we are today. However, everything will be very authentic as we do not want to produce any fakes. There used to be a stairwell in the building, as it was previously a home. We have rebuilt this stairwell. The story about the purchase of the Fifth Avenue building is quite unusual. Even if pearls were more valuable than diamonds in those days, in retrospect, the vendor did make quite a bad deal. Only a few years later, cheap cultured pearls broke the market. Nevertheless, real pearls remained very valuable, because no one fished for pearls anymore, so consequently only the „old“ pearls remained. But it has to be said, even if the price of pearls did increase over the decades, New York property prices definitely increased much more. Nevertheless, it is still not a bad deal to invest in pearls.

Very few diamonds are as famous as the Burton-Taylor diamond, a pear-shaped 69.42 carat diamond.

in New York and urged Americans to engage with their allies in Europe. He considered himself as a bridge between America and France. Amongst others, he was the chair of the Franco-American Chamber of Trade and maintained close contact with important figures, such as Roosevelt. Nowadays, the network between Cartier and politics is not as significant.

Are there any more exciting stories from the beginnings in New York? When Pierre Cartier moved into the building, another Cartier had already existed for years in the city. But due to the concealed location on the second floor, sometimes hours would go by without seeing a single customer. In 1908, Pierre‘s father Alfred came to New York, to look for a new property. We still have a letter from this time, which he had sent to his son Louis in Paris. In the letter he explains why he was looking for a new location for the New York shop. It was actually because Cartier had many renowned New York customers, such as the Vanderbilts and Rothschilds, who only came to Paris for the season. This was the original reason for Cartier‘s idea to open a shop in New York. It seemed more efficient, to go where the customers came from. The same happened with Russia, although in that case there was a generational conflict: Louis and his brother wanted to open a shop in St. Petersburg, but their father thought it was too dangerous - and he was right. For this reason, Cartier only went to Russia in the winter season. But back to New York: so they found a place in Manhattan, but, of course, such a shop cannot immediately catapult to the forefront. Pierre had the idea of lending jewellery for the most important social events. Women from high society therefore came to Cartier to rent wonderful jewellery pieces for free and in return, acted as a form of advertisement for them at high society events. With this amazing marketing strategy, Cartier spread across the city like wildfire. The jewellery appealed to these women, because at the time Cartier had started to

At the beginning of the 20th century, an ever increasing number of women bought their own jewellery and proudly wore it. It was the birth of the Femme Fatale.

CARTIER CARTIER ARCHIVES ©

It was a bit of a crazy deal though, to sell the building for 100 dollars and a pearl necklace to Pierre Cartier... For the owner, back then it was a good deal, at least in the short-term. The prices in this part of the street were sinking and more and more businesses were moving in. Wealthy New Yorkers were moving to other parts of the city, in the direction of Central Park. Cartier already existed back then, a little up Fifth Avenue, on the second floor of a building. And this woman, her name was Maisie Plant, came regularly to Cartier and looked at these wonderful pearl necklaces in the display window. Of course, Pierre Cartier picked up on this and looked for information about her. That is how he knew about the building and that she and her husband were looking to sell it - and with that knowledge he made an offer. She was incredibly happy to own the necklace. For her, it was an entrance ticket into the New York high society. Admittedly, it is the only example of such a deal from Cartier that I know of. It was quite special.

Personal preferences: Grace Kelly had Cartier create numerous pieces of jewellery with a poodle motif.

In the Hollywood comedy â€žSome like it hotâ€?, Marilyn Monroe was dazzled by a sparkling Cartier wristwatch... and Toni Curtis.

The Love Bracelet is a perennial Cartier favourite. It can be seen here in an advertising campaign from 1970.

use platinum, which was highly unusual back then. As a result, the jewellery attracted a lot of attention. The brand therefore became more and more popular, and women and men began to buy from Cartier. A clever way to advertise. Were there anymore? Cartier had a close relationship with the Broadway world and its stars. The brand is even mentioned in some Broadway shows, so it was well placed. In the film â€žGentlemen Prefer Blondesâ€œ, with Marilyn Monroe, Cartier actually played a role. By the beginning of the 20th century, the brand name was tightly linked with the glamour world. I read somewhere that there are hospitals which have purchased the special screwdriver, to be able to open the Cartier Love Bracelet during emergency operations. Is that true? No, I do not think so. Although, maybe it is. There are stories of patients who had to be operated on with the bracelet on, because they could not open it. So, if it is not true, it is maybe not a bad idea. But for our enthusiastic customers, it is a well-loved tradition to throw the screwdriver, which of course comes with the bracelet, in a river after you have both put the Love Bracelet on. It is supposed to be a symbol of eternal love, with the motto: now we are forever linked.

Genf now accommodates almost 1,600 private Cartier jewellery pieces. How should we picture the facilities there, is it an art museum or a huge vault? It is actually a huge vault, which is very well organised and spreads over several small rooms. Every jewellery piece is in a hand-made box, on top of which is a picture of the contents and a number. But we also have a room there, in which we, for example, receive museum curators, in which we of course keep a few pertinent gemstones and jewellery pieces. In that room there is actually a table on which the curators can touch and look at the jewellery. How long have you now worked for Cartier? In November, it will be 32 years. I was originally in marketing. I did not open the archive, but I developed it a lot. Are you actually wearing a Cartier watch? Yes. And I also have some old Cartier watches. But when new ones come out, I like to wear them to get a feeling for them. I also collect Cartier cuff links, I own a few of them. Many thanks for the fascinating discussion, I could listen to your true stories for hoursâ€Ś 99

Dress Calvin klein collection Suitcase vintage

100

ign

Top & Skirt ETRO Shoes santoni Ring JANE KØNIG

norina PHOTOGRAPHY BY ESTHER HAASE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAREN SCHABHÜSER

Blouse Self-ÂPortrait

102

Corset Maria Hoermannseder

Outfit Brunello Cuccinelli Shoes WILLIAM FAN Bracelet Marc by Marc Jacobs

103

104

rragamo

Lace body Love Stories intimate

Dress: Tory Burch Sandals: Salvatore Fe

Dress: By Malene Birger Sandals: Salvatore Ferragamo Earrings: Jane KĂ¸nig

106

Dress & Necklace: Salvatore Ferragamo Shoes: William Fan

Blouse: Self-Portrait Skirt: Cacharel Shoes: Paul&Joe

Corset Maria Hoermannseder

Photographer: Maren SchabhĂźser | Stylist: Constanze DĂśbber | Hair & Make-up: Marco Alecci c/o Bigoudi using Chanel, Sisley and Davines

Dress: Paul & Joe Sister, Blanket: Vintage

107

Of 1

Rice and Demons

You donâ€˜t need to fly into the universe with an Ariane to be closer to the gods. A flight to Island of the Gods will suffice. Bali is perhaps the one place in the world, where spirituality and a life lived according to faith are valued higher than lifestyle and business. by Susanne Filter

nly here is it conceivable that for Nyepi, the most important Hindu festival in Bali which occurs annually on the day after the new moon during the spring equinox, a whole island would come to a complete standstill for 24 hours. No cars, planes, taxis or motor scooters are allowed, nor any form of light or loud noise. For 24 hours, everyone stays at home. The same applies for tourists visiting Bali. Those who booked a hotel with generous facilities will be happy, because for them Nyepi will be an experience and not just a struggle. The night before things get very exciting: For weeks, tiny villages and communities craft demons, some of which get to eight metres high. These colourful, very expressive and imaginative demons are individually created, to be worn in a huge procession throughout all of the communities on the island. At midnight, the climax of the ceremony is to burn them, as a symbol of the elimination of all bad spirits. 90 per cent of the demons have oversized huge breasts, which begs the question of whether this symbol of extreme femininity is at the same time the epitome of evil? Nobody could or wanted to give me a full answer to this question... For those coming to the Island of the Gods the night before Nyepi, it is advisable to arrive in good time, to ensure arrival at the final destination before 5pm. At 110

Even long fingernails play a role in the richly detailed styling of demons.

that time, all the streets and a lot of small temple entrances will be swamped by a multicoloured hustle. Every family, every household has their own temple which is looked after by the whole family. The local communities, schools and other groups meet up everywhere to animatedly discuss the evening ahead. The air is heavy from the many incense sticks that are burnt alongside the sacrificial offerings given in honour of the gods. With love and the finest craftsmanship, banana leaves, flowers, rice and much more are bundled into little offerings for each one of the gods. The intense mix of smells, vivid colours, fantasy and the traditional Balinese instruments makes one thing clear: Yes, we have arrived on the Island of the Gods. Following the noisy burning-of-the-gods ceremony, comes the phase of absolute silence. No light can be seen, no sound heard; the island sinks into complete silence. The demons have finally been sucked into the underworld. And should they ever escape it, they will not bother to stop off at a seemingly uninhabited island. For us Europeans, itâ€˜s an opportunity. It is a day to reflect with incredible intensity and most importantly the opportunity to send our thoughts on an incredible journey.

Each village, each community dedicates labor to creating their very own demons, which are burnt at night after a lively procession.

Stunning glimpses and vistas and compellingly lit spaces shape the eloquent architecture of the Ritz Carlton Mandapa.

112

Balinese consider the Ayung River to be holy, carrying positive energy in its waters. One arm flows through the grounds of the Mandapa.

he newly opened Ritz Carlton Mandapa in Ubud, in central and spiritual Bali, offers all the conditions to take in Bali in its full complexity. It is only the third resort to be opened in the world by the group. The hotel complex, stretching over 5.8 hectares, appears more like a small enclosed village community, but of course with a high architectural standard. I have rarely experienced a 5-star luxury hotel in such affinity and balance with its surrounding culture. It is likely the most beautiful location in Ubud, as here you can settle in direct proximity to one of the oldest luxury resorts in Bali. Upon reaching the open entrĂŠe to the Mandapa, you have a view of the entire complex: Across the on-site rice paddies and the sacred Ayung River which twists its way through the area at the foot of a steep jungle face. The river villas are characterised by their truly imaginative, pure Balinese beauty, but also their intimacy. The guest is welcomed with their own premises, including a garden and infinity pool, which stretches from the terrace to the ravine with a view over the river. The garden and individual rooms are atmospherically lit. However, for Nyepi, even everything here is plunged into darkness, lit only by the stars. To dip into the pool at night with a view of the brightly lit Milky Way is definitely an unforgettable experience. Of course, they do their utmost to ensure the comfort of their guests and to meet any requests. Nevertheless, nothing can replace this moment of privacy. Understanding the culture and potential of Bali forms part of the message of the Mandapa. Sowing rice, 113

The irrigation systems of the rice paddies are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

romantic dinner in the rice paddy, individual trips to the surrounding villages and the irrigation systems of the rice paddies, which are equally as important to the world heritage list as the most beautiful temples; all of these can be individually explored off the tourist paths in an old cross-country vehicle and in just a short time you will find the unexpected vicinities. The spa concept is also admirable, which not only offers outstanding treatments by their five Balinese healers, but also employs a blind healer, who since a young age has had great empathy for the human body and uses this to the benefit of her patients. When necessary, she, just as the other healers, are offered a lift from their villages to the

Even older women take the time to lovingly create sacrificial offerings composed of leaves, blossoms and food, which are prepared for the gods in the many temples dotting the landscape.

Mandapa. I myself underwent such a treatment and I was surprised by the detailed knowledge this woman of me, without having her told anything. But it is Bali, it gives you opportunity every day to immerse yourself in things that you never could have dreamed of. It is a chance to change, if only that be to make you appreciate the world around us a little more. There is not enough space or time to describe the many, plentiful details of this new Ritz Carlton resort. All the 5-star comfort and service standards are of course talked about, but it is this additional sensitivity and cultural understanding that really gives it its charm. The region around Ubud, in particular, accommodates numerous manufacturers and whole villages who specialise solely in handicrafts. You can also discover almost untouched village structures, for example the woodcarving Garuda village. Every household in Bali has its own Garuda. Whether opulently painted or simply carved from wood, the bird is supposed to bring luck to every family. One village further down the road, the finished pieces are used for temple elements, as each family builds their own small temple. The elements require time and money to be produced. Soon after you arrive at the village of doors and window carvings. Wonderful decorative interior elements are created with passion and handicraft skills. Those who find some antique carvings, full of charm and made with very high quality are particularly lucky. Wood and silversmith work remain some of the highlights of the Balinese production. It must not be forgotten, that some of these handicrafts can become victims of perfect forgery. This applies not only to paintings, but has long affected sculptures and expensive interior design. Even specialists now find it difficult to tell the difference. It is therefore recommended to visit a serious museum, if you wish to see Balinese art in all its true glory. The Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) in Ubud, which has been there for several decades, is to this day an excellent place to visit.

115

Spirituality, ritual offerings and even cockfights are deeply engrained in Balinese culture.

116

ali is full of contrasts. As such, despite being turbulent and very touristy, the south is the perfect place to spend a relaxing beach holiday. There are many unexpected possibilities to get to know the culture of Bali, if you are prepared to fully appreciate its environment. The deeply embedded, widespread Asian culture of cock fighting is also omnipresent in Bali. Although still permitted during spiritual festivals, cock fighting for betting matches has been officially band. The addictive betting brought several family communities into financial difficulties. But a culture cannot be so easily changed. The prohibition only had moderate success and cock fighting can still be found in the village neigh-

The cock and its owner both know how to impress their audience.

bourhoods and in major events, where police are bribed to keep quiet and allow the match. The atmosphere is hot, loud and very packed. You bet face-to-face rather than filling betting slips out anonymously, leading to a deafening noise. Of course, there is an alter with numerous offerings to the gods in the middle of the arena. To our surprise, the dead cocks are prepared for saté dishes and consumed by the loud, chattering male audience. A thigh is given to the winner of the cock fight, as a trophy. But here in the south, there is another side of Bali. A Hindu priest celebrates the ritual „purifying ceremony“ on the beach during the sunset and prays to the gods for the protection of his present protégés. Regardless of whether or not you believe in Hinduism, this silent, murmuring chant of the priest, with the setting sun and the lovingly prepared offerings, or the diverse rituals themselves, will captivate you.

Cockfights are graded and decided through hand signals and lusty yells.

117

n the Nusa Dua peninsula, the Ritz Carlton has built a new large hotel, side-by-side with other 5-star hotels who discovered this untouched part of the island, as it is in an ideal and spacious location. However, the emphasis here is on that holiday feeling rather than a Bali-feeling. The hotel is outstandingly run like almost all the Ritz Carlton hotels and offers many options. One special feature has to be their home-built chapel, which is very popular for weddings on Baliâ€˜s beaches. The hotel facilities are spacious, luxurious and very modern. Almost every one of the many rooms and villas has its own private pool, directly linked to the terrace. Despite

118

With its lavish space the Ritz Carlton Nusa Dua is able to offer everything needed for a perfect beach holiday.

these, the highlight remains the large pool which runs right up to the sea. Is there room for intimacy and personal attention in such large hotel facilities? Yes, there is. Not only due to the excellent training of the staff in the worldwide recognised Ritz Carlton educational programme, which is actually used by many other international companies, including Apple. But due to the positive aura of the Balinese and their deep rooted wishes to please their guests. Guests almost feel like they are on their own island on the island. Those who want a lot of Bali get a lot of Bali, those who donâ€˜t - everything is possible. The interior is discreetly Balinese and thereby very modern

The hotel will organize a typical purifying ceremony right on the beach.

and comfortable. It conforms to international hotel requirements in every aspect. In the centrally located executive area, the very best food and drink is provided all day long, even if you just want a glass of wine to relax in the cool room. If you go past the monkey rock, where every evening wild monkeys come for a visit, you will reach a higher located bar, with a splendid view over the hotel facilities, the beach and far out to the seaâ€˜s horizon. The cook in the Indonesian Bejana restaurant is very ambitious and trained in Ubudâ€˜s famous Kupo Kupo Barong resort, which is known for its outstanding Indonesian cuisine. He took us to the small authentic fish market in Jimbaran, a market which truly resembles a film set. The fully packed fishing boats drive up to the beach and many helpers come running to help drag the freshly-caught fish in the baskets to the shore, to be weighed and brought to the market. Some old women sit in the half-shade in front of tilted boats and clean up the fish that they will then directly offer for sale. The slightly tinted market hall is like an opulent still life and popular subject for photos at the same time. Many fish that I did not recognise stared at me with huge eyes and at times wide-open mouths. They sparkled and dazzled in all the colours of the rainbow. It attracts large crowds.

The generous array of pools is not just for everybody, each villa actually has its own infinity pool.

119

The fishermenâ€™s market of Jlmbaran seems to have fallen out of time. Based on a long tradition the men bring their catch to be weighed and then sold in the markets.

m Made, the head chef of the Indonesian restaurant at the hotel complex, loves cooking and experimenting. Together with Quality magazine he for the first time created a salad made from banana leaves.

120

ade Suriana, our cook, quickly recognises what the best produce is and deftly thinks up a menu for us to prepare together on-site in the hotel kitchen. I barely recognised any of the ingredients and spices, but I found it fascinating to see, to smell and to taste. After the multi-course menu, I understood how Indonesian cuisine is structured and that there are base products and sauces that can easily be used to create many variations with meat, fish or even salad. Made Suriana collected a few particularly beautiful banana flowers and quickly added them to the menu. They are eaten as an aromatic garnish, to compliment the fish and meat dishes. Bali is and shall remain one of the most beautiful islands where you can spend a holiday, or perhaps even part of your life. Which parts you definitely have to visit depend on your budgeted time and attitude towards life.

Fish of every size, shape and color are on display. Heaven on earth for connoisseurs of fish cuisine!

Outfit Miu Miu

122

& Photography Oliver Rauh

hide

seek

123

124

Outfit PRADA

125

Coat: AGNONA | Bustier: HAPPY LOLA | Skirt & Sanda ls: SPORTMAX Bijoux: TORY BURCH X CADENZZA

Blouse: ANNIE P | Bustier: ETRO Coat: MAX MARA | Skirt & Panties: AIGNER

128

Dress: DRIES VAN NOTEN | Stola: ABOU Coat: PAUL SMITH | Sandals: SANTONI

129

Skirt: PAUL SMITH | Blouse: MAX MARA | Shirt: LIU JO Necklace: OSCAR DE LA RENTA X CADENZZA Clutch: BENEDETTA BRUZZICHES | Sandals: SANTONI

Photographer: Oliver Rauh | Production & Styling: Oliver Rauh | Digital Operator: Arton Sefa | Model: Julia @ Miha-Modelmanagement.com Hair & Make-Up: Evangelos Tzimakas using Laura Mercier & Aveda @ Fame-Agency.com | Retouch: Elektronische Schรถnheit | Light: Dedo Weigert Film

Massive For Zaha Hadid, buildings should by no means be treated in isolation. They often merge with the topography of the site as part of a dynamic landscape. Image: the â€œHeydar Aliyev Centerâ€? in Baku (2012).

130

Zaha Hadid liberated buildings from the clutches of the right angle. In 2004, the native Iraqi was the first woman to be honoured with the Pritzker Prize, the worldâ€˜s most important award in the field of architecture. At the end of March, this Grand Dame of contemporary architecture died suddenly in Miami at the age of 65. She was at the height of her career. A conversation about universal beauty, creative ping pong and her childhood growing up in Iraq. by Norman Kietzmann

aves 131

There are no longer any simple formulas.

aha Hadid has dictated a change in direction in architecture with her organically flowing designs. In 2004, she was honoured by becoming the first woman to receive the prestigious Pritzker Prize. Born in 1950 in Baghdad, Zaha Hadid completed her architecture studies at the Architectural Association in London. After graduating, she became a partner in the Office for Metropolitan Architecture (OMA) under Rem Koolhaas and in 1980, founded her own Office on the banks of the River Thames. The conversion of her first building took place somewhat later on. It was only in 1993, at the age of 43, that Zaha Hadid was able to demonstrate the feasibility of her designs for the fire station on the Vitra premises in Weil am Rhein. The Phaeno Science Center in Wolfsburg, the BMW factory in Leipzig, as well as the Museum of 21st Century Art in Rome (MAXXI) became a springboard for her to join the premier league of star architects. Always at her side is her office partner, Patrik Schuhmacher. The 54-year old German took over the management of the Office after the sudden death of Zaha Hadid in March 2016. He doesnâ€˜t just plan to complete the 36 current projects: with his 400-strong team of architects, he intends to take part in new competitions and continue the work of Zaha Hadid. Zaha Hadid, your architecture is often described as being fluid or dynamic. What made you decide to move away from right angles and geometric architecture? I think that the complexity and dynamism of contemporary life no longer fits into the simple platonic 3

Apartment building “520 West 28th Street” in New York (under construction) Below: “London Aquatics Centre” for the Summer Olympic Games in London 2012 Left page: Interior of the Guangzhou Opera House (2010)

grids and cubes of the Industrial Age. Today, in the digital 21st century, the lives of people have become much more flexible and globalised. There are no longer any simple formulas. Our work is focused on an attempt to develop a new architectural language, a language that we can use to organise this increased level of social complexity and express it. This ranges from the planning of entire neighbourhoods to individual buildings and even items of furniture. How do you go about planning a new building? My ideas usually come from observing a location, nature, or the city. My architecture is all about how people move across a room and make use of the space. With most projects, there is already a concrete idea at the beginning. But of course the result always depends on what I actually see at that point in time and what is happening around me. It’s like creative ping pong. Sometimes I think that we, architects, sit in a room like artists, having these occasional crazy ideas that somebody then makes happen for us. But it doesn‘t work like that with very complex projects... it would be nice if it did sometimes! (laughs). You emphasise over and over that games and chance are

key parameters in your work. Why? Because quite simply, design is nothing but a game. Let me give you an example: a few years ago I was focusing on a very small project, the size of an apartment. The whole point of it was to see how many different ways a room could be envisaged under the same parameters. I got to about 700 options through repeating and changing aspects on practically a daily basis. This gave us a rough idea of how you can interpret the organisation of a space. Although the possibilities are not endless, they are, however, incredibly versatile, so you can imagine what that would be like if you mapped it onto the scale of a city. Your early projects in particular show the clear influence of the work of Russian constructivists. Why did this trend cast such a spell over you? I have always found the pace, the quality, but also the quantity of creative work achieved in the aftermath of the October revolution to be astounding. When I started to study architecture in the 1970s, I was really influenced by artists such as Kasimir Malewitsch and El Lissitzky. One of the most tangible results of this was that I started to use painting as a tool for architecture. I felt stifled by the poverty brought about by the classical system of architectural plans and so I looked for other presentation methods. With the painting, I finally found a means to think differently about spaces. Perhaps I would construct things quite differently today if I hadn’t followed this path.

133

Luxury apartment tower „One Thousand Museum“ in Miami (under construction) Right: Corridor of the “Learning and Library Centre“ (2013) of the Vienna University of Economics. Below: Design for the stadium for the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics.

You say that you already knew at the age of eleven that you wanted to be an architect. What tipped the balance at that time? At that time, you still lived with your parents in Baghdad. It was just like in many other States in the Middle East or in South America at the time, it was all about a search for identity. It was a time of new politics, new States and also new buildings. We always got magazines like “Time” or “Life” at home and I can still clearly remember the images in them at the time. One day I went to an architecture exhibition with my parents, who were also interested in this topic. I can’t remember exactly what it was any more or what it was about, but it must have had something to do with Frank Lloyd Wright, who was represented in an exhibition at the Opera House in Baghdad. It immediately made me feel curious. You’ve studied architecture in London and then later founded your own Office on the River Thames as well. How did you end up making the move to England? I‘ve always liked London. My brother went to school here and my father was often in the city. Through a friend I heard that the Architectural Association was a place where you could study exceptionally good architecture. Talk of it had spread to Iraq! Otherwise, London in the 60s was simply a great city with all the beats and so on. My parents gave me plenty of freedom in this respect. In Iraq, I could already watch all the movies I wanted to and listen to any music I wanted as well. When I came to England for a year to go to boarding school, I knew that I wanted to study there. What memories do you have of being a student in London? The Architectural Association was a really strange place at this time. I think that first and foremost it was about an alternative way of living. Especially in my second year I had a, well, a pretty terrible time because of some of the professors. Sometimes they locked me in a room to try and tell me that I would fail. I mean, I’d left my country, moved to England 134

The “Tela” shelving system (2014) for Citco combines flowing lines with a tangible materiality and is made from black Negro Marquina marble.

You must give people a glimpse into another world. and had attended an English school. But there we go. In America you would have probably had put them in jail (laughs). But why did they do it? They thought I was crazy or rich – just because I was wearing clean clothes. It was more or less seen to be a duty to drag your new coat through all the muck and dirt in Bedford Square, right in front of the University building. There was a certain bias against foreigners and you had to live in a squat or at least carry around scruffy stuff. It made me so unbelievably tired... But all in all, it was also a good time because I had plenty of opportunities to find my own way.

Zaha Hadid was closely connected with the Milan furniture manufacturer Sawaya & Moroni. The “Mew Table” presented in April was her last design draft.

135

Are you still happy to be in London? Sure, London is a highly civilised city. Or at least with the exception of the weather! Of course it is not easy to build my kind of architecture – our design for the 2012 Summer Olympics swimming stadium spent several years being put on ice. But the crucial point is that there are some incredibly creative engineers in London. They take their work very seriously and are not biased against an architecture that looks somewhat different from the plans that normally cross their desk. This openness is very typical of London, and it’s something that become a part of our projects. What role do technical innovations play in your work? Computers have, of course, increased the complexity of design vocabulary. But without follow-up developments in the materials themselves, then many of the designs just couldn’t have been implemented. Take the example of our cultural centre in Baku. For this building, we worked in concrete with fibreglass reinforcements, rather than previous methods that had used steel to reinforce it. The advantage is that it allows extremely thin components to be manufactured. This meant we could insert plates that were only eight to thirteen millimetres thick – they

Below: The „Sheikh Zayed Bridge“ (2010) in Abu Dhabi is designed with distinctive curves. In the background: the “Liquid Glacial Table“ made from plexiglass was created in 2012 for the David Gill Design Gallery in London.

were very light, yet still had a high tensile strength. I like concrete because it’s a fluid material and you can create virtually any shape with it you like. For the Burnham Pavilion in Chicago‘s Millennium Park, you created a lightweight metal structure, which was covered with a textile membrane. Will lightweight materials play a greater role in the future? We will definitely soon see materials being used in architecture that can be bent, stretched, curved or wrapped. At the same time, these materials can have a self-supporting structure and can be in any colour or finish. I think that architecture will receive a new lease of life through these materials. The notion of fluidity in our work will then no longer be treated as a special case, but will be incorporated into architecture 136

Dynamics on the water: In 2013, Zaha Hadid and Patrik Schumacher developed the 90-metre yacht, “Jazz”, for Blohm & Voss. New ground was broken not only with the design of the hull, but also the surprising interior with its unusual views and spaciousness.

as a whole. It makes me really curious about what the next years will bring. How does it feel to be at the pinnacle of your career? I try not to think about it too much. I don‘t go to bed every night thinking “Wow, I‘m a really important architect!” Because an architect’s daily routine is also somewhat strange. If I think about it, I have to say in particular that the time and the lengthy searches that I’ve invested in my work have paid off. Initially, many people thought that it was futile going after a career like this. But now in hindsight, I know that it was all worth the effort and we have discovered some very valuable things over the course of time.

Welche Rolle spielt der Schönheit in der Architektur? Kant once said that beauty is universal. So it must therefore be a subjective factor in the eye of the beholder. For me, the key things about architecture is creating pleasant and stimulating spaces to cater to all aspects of social living. I think you have to give people a fleeting glimpse into another world and inspire them with new ideas. That’s what beauty is to me. Many thanks for talking to me.

Posthumous completion: The „Maritime Terminal“ in Salerno, Italy, is the first building to be opened after the death of Zaha Hadid.

Foto: Gabriel Everett

cette von Antonia Ostersetzer

In March, your new album, RAW, was released. How excited were you when it came on the market? I was very excited, but in a really positive way. On the day, we played a concert and immediately afterwards, I looked at the iTunes charts. I thought maybe the album would enter somewhere in the top 100, but it was number 8! Why is the album called RAW? RAW is a track on my album, a quite emotional trip into some highs and lows. Songwriting is always an emotional trip, and what remains at the end is straight from the heart. That‘s why I thought RAW was suitable.

femme Germans might not know her last name, but Femme Schmidt is creating quite an international furore. Supporting Elton John or Brian Ferry, the singer has thrilled thousands, but feels just as much at home in intimate clubs. With her a seductive blend of pop, jazz and Chanson, the 26-year-old tells stories through her songs that are full of melancholy and sensuality. Schmidt talked to Quality about her new album, Berlin sins and eating schnitzel with Hugh Grant.

by Antonia Ostersetzer

What’s the best compliment you‘ve received about RAW? Chris Martin said something great („Her album is a wonderful journey through her incredible world! She speaks of so many touching things about love and life in her songs, while her music sounds both strong and pretty wicked at the same time”. Anm. d. Red.). I think the biggest compliment you can give me for this album is that it has touched somebody.

They say that in writing, you have to opens up to yourself, allow yourself access. How do you achieve this access? I cut myself off. I go inside myself, where nobody knows me and I am alone. I try to take myself out of my comfort zone. In London, I have lived alone, for example, in a water tower. During this phase I try to forgot all my emotions and not let them distract me. You can ultimately become distracted with many things: sex, alcohol, friends, shopping...

139

“Amy Winehouse used her music as a cry for help and everyone simply celebrated it.”

How did you end up living in this water tower? I found the water tower on Airbnb. First, I found it a little creepy. It stood on two stilts and you had to climb over a kind of building construction. Although there were very many levels, and it was worth it for the view of London. You commute between London and Berlin. Is there something typically British that you’d like to keep hold when you’re here in Berlin, or something you miss when you’re here? London is very open, but at the same time moves at a maniacal speed. In Berlin,

career about how you wanted to position yourself as a singer? My first album, I wrote and produced it with Guy Chambers and this time had a really big influence on my development. I went into the Studio as Elisa and I came out as Femme Schmidt. The 1920s were a wave, and it was a time of hype in London at the time. We’ve taken that on board. Your music is very tempting, you have a very sexy look. Does that open doors or is your vampish aura sometimes an obstacle? I am a woman who is very comfortable in her body and I live aligned with my sexuality. That way, I can also look real on the outside as well. It can outshine other things sometimes. You get the feeling that artists have to deal with this constantly, whether to highlight their femininity or not... I think about it all the time, I love showbiz. Music is one thing, but everything else that comes after that - from the video and album art to my stage performance or outfits - is itself an extension of my music and the external impression I want to give.

Would you do a semi-nude photo shoot, for example, for a magazine? Not at the moment. But you should never say never. I have no problem with however, you can be lazy, because every- nudity, but I think it’s good to remain stylthing here is so relaxed. It is good to gather ish. I‘m always dressed properly and I think inspiration. I‘m trying to take some of the more is better. I find women who take care high speed of London to Berlin. Berlin is of their appearance and come in a beautiful package to be really sexy. just a city full of pleasures and sins. You like including elements from the 1920s into your appearances, did you think early in your 140

How do men cope with the confidence you have in your sex appeal?

If they are men, then they cope absolutely fine. But there are men who are still boys, and the women who are still girls. Sometimes, I have to tell men that I don’t bite, but so far no-one has been afraid of me! (laughs) You know Hugh Grant. What’s sexy about him? Good question. Probably his character. It’s been said that the two of you are having an affair, how are you dealing with such rumours? We were eating together in the restaurant Borchardts, and then much more was made of it in the press than there was. He just wanted to eat a schnitzel. Because he is a very intelligent man, it’s inspiring to talk with him. That was actually five years ago and at that time I was still very young and didn‘t think anything further of it. Hugh Grant stands by his open relationships. Can you imagine sharing a man? No! Absolutely not, I wouldn’t share my husband with anyone.

Fotos: Gabriel Everett

How do you feel when you’re compared to Lana del Rey or Nora Jones? First, I think they’re both insanely great and I think it‘s normal that comparisons are made. I mean, we’re all around at the same time. I’m actually the same age as Lana del Rey. We grew up in the same pop culture, there are similar influences in our music. So when you have money to spend, what’s your weakness? Beauty treatments. I like to feel beautiful and cared for. Otherwise, I spend too much on music... and even more on books! Living a healthy lifestyle is a big thing – how 141

“In L.A. you’ll end up getting nowhere if you try and find someone to have a deep discussion with.” do you maintain one? Would we find Chia seeds and vegan sausages in your refrigerator? I do actually have Chia seeds in my fridge, but I‘m not vegan. It is important I care for myself and listen to my own body. I find it all extremely dull, but you should find out what is good for you. However, there are times where I feel very self-defeatist and I don’t look after myself.

portant, because the body will say at some point, ‘Stop. Enough is enough!’

Foto: Gabriel Everett

The tragic example of Amy Winehouse shows that even young artists often run the risk of losing it and stifling their sensitivity with alcohol and drugs. Do you think artists tend to excess? Yes. I am an emotional junkie as well. With me, everything is either very high or very low. But then I also know artists who Does that depend to a large extent on what are quite, quite different. For me, the posistage you’re at in the music-making? Of course. On tour, everything‘s diffi- tives and the negatives are very important, cult, even if I do yoga every morning. But because they create a stress field in the we party every night until about 6am in middle, and that’s where my music comes the morning and I don’t stop myself from from. Amy Winehouse used her music as a having anything. Finding a balance is im- cry for help and everyone simply celebrat-

Foto: Kate Bellm

ed it. It is no wonder that she ultimately fell apart.

Foto: Gabriel Everett

The new issue of Quality is a travel special: which destinations are your top destinations at the moment? I’m most looking forward to Glastonbury Festival in England! It’s going to be my first time there this year. Apart from Berlin, which is my absolute top city, my favourite destination is Croatia. You get the most beautiful light in the world there and there is a very special atmosphere. My top cities include London, New York and Los Angeles - but that has to do with my music. I also really like going to New Orleans! Compared to the United States, Berlin does have an insane street life. In L.A. you’ll end up getting nowhere if you try and find someone to have a deep dis- Thanks for talking so openly with us and have a great time at cussion with. Here in Berlin, it’s like Italy Glastonbury! in the summer time; everyone sits around together from morning until night and you meet new people. That changes people, it allows them to evolve. It’s a lot more difficult in the USA. And finally, what’s your personal ‘guilty pleasure’? Disney films! I have all the classics at home and I could watch them day and night! 143

Batul to Buddha 1

The intensive moments in our life are almost always marked by unusual people. Meetings between such people frequently generate the energy needed to create something new. Buddha To Buddha is definitely one of the brands that have arisen as a result of such a moment. by Susanne Filter 145

As specialists in silversmiths, the Buddha to Buddha workshop are able to make their own rigid moulds. In the Buddha to Buddha workshop manufacturer in South Bali, new collections are created with fine craftsmanship, to later be produced in larger quantities.

atul, the founder of the jewellery label Buddha to Buddha, Margret, Director of the Bali Children Foundation and actor and photographer Hardy Krüger Junior met on Bali to exchange ideas on production sites and charity premises for Buddha to Buddha. The story of Batul Loomans whose present life more than ever before is shaped by meditation is illustrious and most definitely has movie potential. At first his path seemed pre-programmed. As the son of a renowned Amsterdam textile dynasty, he was prepared to take over management of the firm his parents had been running for more than 40 years. As it turned out, the creative people he encountered at business school interested him more than the business course itself. For a short time afterwards, he worked for one of the largest importers in the Netherlands who recognised that Batul had the potential of becoming more than purely a sales manager. He thus became assistant to the designer. Even now Batul speaks of this period as a great gift because as a young man he was sent to Hongkong for three months to work on the new collection. He went from one factory to another and loved his job although it became apparent that, despite his success in this world of fast business, it was not to be his world of work. In conversation with Susanne Filter, editor-in-chief, he describes a scene which was to dramatically change his life: „My then boss was a great role model for me but, when he came home after being away for months, his wife barely looked in his direction. This was one of the most successful people in the fashion industry who could have anything he wanted and yet his wife barely looked up from her newspaper when he came home. That isn‘t good. If that was the result of his success, then it wasn‘t something I wanted. And that‘s when I travelled to India for the first time.“ This is where Batul‘s real journey begins.

146

It was a transformational and emotional interview, and at that point in Ashram I learnt that we are more than our own minds. The freer I am the more creative I can be.

Friendship at first sight: Hardy KrĂźger Junior and Batul Loomans clicked from the very beginning. Both have the same vision in mind: Charity for children.

Batul, you were already in the world of design at this point and certainly didnâ€˜t wish to leave it, did you? I was 25 years old and it very quickly became clear to me after all the travelling around that success does not come from always doing more and more. So I decided to forget about success and to focus more on my own well-being. By chance, I met a woman in a bar who wanted to work with Mother Theresa but whose father would not allow her to travel to India unless she was accompanied by a man. I was keen to do that, moved to India and worked for six weeks with Mother Theresa. My job was to lift bed-ridden people into the water where they were washed by someone else. Every morning we went to see a man who sat on his bed and meditated. I had never before met anyone who was so relaxed and calm and so 147

Hardy Krüger Junior in action, as a photographer for the Bali Children Foundation.

Snoop Dog was one of the opening acts at the Superbowl and suddenly I noticed he was wearing my bracelet. That was the best publicity I could wish for.

I asked him what he was doing. He didn‘t want to talk about it but he told me that, if I was interested, he could recommend several places where I could learn the art of meditation. And then he took me to an ashram in Jaipur. When did you create your first bracelet? I created the first design in 1991/1992 in India, where I did a three-and-a-half-month course in massage therapy. I met a man from Switzerland there, and he made my first bracelet. He worked very professionally in jewellery manufacture and I had a good feel for shape. This is how I came to draw my first bracelet. The Swiss was then thrown out of the ashram because he had had too much to drink. I had obtained my diploma and he had given me a small bag which contained my first bracelet. And that was how it all started. And then you founded the brand. Why is it called Buddha To Buddha? That‘s a lovely story. The moment you step inside an ashram you must have a conversation with someone who has been there for a long time to find out who you are and where you are in your life. I had such a conversation with a wonderful woman of 60 or 70 who had deep blue eyes. Within five minutes she had practically seen right through me. It was a transformational and emotional conversation and from that moment I learned that we are not our thoughts. That, in principle, is my only real interest. The freer I am, the more creative I can be. This woman told me that this is a conversation from Buddha to Buddha. But surely more is needed to create a brand. What initiatives did you take to make your design so popular? There is a very unusual story. I decorated my first bracelet with 11 carat stones to advertise the brand via Snoop Dog. That 148

was about eight years ago. I was very excited when I was invited to go backstage after a concert. Some pretty important people were there, including the boss of Sony. The music was hyper and I offered Snoop Dog my bracelet to wear for a year or two. I didn‘t want to do a deal with him; all I wanted was that he would wear my bracelet and sell it, so that we could use the money to build an orphanage on Bali. You need to know that even then I was looking for someone like Margret. Anyway, everyone backstage with Snoop Dog stood up immediately and greeted the idea with applause. And I gave him the bracelet. After that, I spent three or four months trying to contact his management team to find out where to go from there. I told them that I had given him a bracelet and that it was extremely valuable. I was simply told that the management had changed and no-one knew anything about it. Every night I woke up bathed in sweat, thinking about it. When eventually there was a big concert in Amsterdam, I went there and was at last able to speak to the management team, who told me that during a concert in Miami the safe and everything in it had been stolen from the hotel room. Of course I didn‘t believe that. Then Snoop Dog was one of the opening acts at the Superbowl and was suddenly wearing my bracelet. That was the best publicity I could wish for. We haven‘t actually had any money but Snoop is very popular and influential. When did you have something to give back to the idea? We have been active on Bali for over 20 years. We spoke to many charities on the island but I felt myself drawn to Margret immediately. She has a large team made up of people who organise things here and she also has the best lawyers on the island. You need the right people, including business people. I would like it if all you had to do was go there and do good but it isn‘t as simple as that.

Children from Bali who, thanks to Margret Barry and the support of the Children Foundation, have the opportunity to go to school in their beautiful school uniform. An opportunity that both children and parents cherish.

149

My main goal is a sustainable result. We want to achieve a middle-class and economically stable society here, which will withstand the constant changes in this part of the world.

Batul is part of the DNA of Buddha to Buddha and his heart will always belong to his baby. He has moved his life in a new direction, however, by building a meditation centre. He wants to spread spirituality and serenity and so he has bought an old church near Amsterdam. It is due to open in July. Bali, the Island of the Gods, seems the perfect place to provide a link between Batul and business. We also get to know Margret of whom he speaks with such regard. She had long had a connection to Batul‘s parents as she had started up her own textile business in India in 1975. Now she lives in a small traditional village in the south of Bali. She runs a factory and various businesses and heavily exports her own brand to Australia. ly encourage boys for whom we can see opportunities to carry on despite this. In most cases, however, they do go to work. In the How did you come to establish the Children‘s Foundation? long term they are giving up the possibility of following a better I was on Bali during the first bomb strike in 2002 and hel- career in later life. This is in complete contrast to the girls, who are ped to care for people. The very next day I was caring for the seen as less important in terms of society, and so they frequently injured. More than 300 people had to be cared for and evacuated. complete their secondary education. We worked closely with a team of migrants, tourists and of course locals and we were able to achieve great results. This is how I If a boy and a girl from one family both have a career, is it only the boy‘s came to realise that this kind of cooperation is very successful and earnings that goes to the family or the girl‘s also? I asked myself how we could make ourselves useful again. Within Both sets of earnings go to the family. If the girl marries, the a month I had started a project with a children‘s home in Singaraja. earnings then belong to her new family. As a rule, though, she has So it all started with the first bombs. Today we work in 38 diffe- enough money to continue to support her own family by helping rent communities in the north and west and on some of the islands to finance building work or repairs for instance. The cost of living around Bali. We support 1600 children with our programmes and is very low compared with the south. With a good income it is grants. possible in north Bali to change many things fast. We are working village by village and area by area. This is why more than just one It must be an enriching experience to see the results of your own work. or two children in a community are helped. Our programme has Yes, particularly when I see that children can find a job when been designed such that we can leave an entire village healthy they leave school and can make a good living. This enables them and prosperous. We work with all the poor families in the area, set to change the lives of their families too. Society here is very com- them on the right road and then move on to the next place. munity-based, which means that the income also benefits the families of the children who are supported. This improves not Do you have big objectives for the coming years? only the child‘s standard of living but also that of the families and My biggest objective is a sustainable result and the creation of eventually that of the entire community. The poor communities a medium-sized and economically stable society here which will of people living in the country, with whom we have been working be able to withstand the constant changes in this part of the world. for some time, have changed dramatically. The children who have The economy in South-east Asia is growing continuously and angraduated from school can safeguard their younger siblings, ma- yone with a good education can hold their heads up and will not be king the programme very future-proof. pushed to the edges of society. I want to make sure that children are part of the new South-east Asia in which they have a future. Do boys and girls have equal opportunities? At the moment we are teaching and helping 15 per cent of the You have to remember that we are living in a society which is children of Bali who are disadvantaged. We will try to extend our dominated by men. Despite this, however, the numbers of boys programme further and continually improve what we are doing. I and girls in the school classes are equal until the twelfth class. In actually have very interesting plans for the next five years, as these the tertiary stage we do have more girls than boys. That is because are very important years in which to create change. If we invest a the boys often feel obliged to go out to work as soon as they have lot of work now, we can hop on the bus which is heading directly finished school, as this is what is expected of them. We particular- into the economic future. In five years it will be more difficult for 150

communities, as by then they will be even further behind. So our programme should grow as strongly as possible over the next five years. In the beginning we had an objective for the first 10 years; now we are halfway through and are on course.

Margret Berry presents â€žher childrenâ€œ, full of pride. In North Bali, time seems to stand still. There is so much nature, so few buildings and so few developed streets. Because of this, the children are creative when finding things to do in their free time.

In the primary school the children prayed at midday. Do they always have to pray at midday or even several times a day? Sometimes before they go home. It is a part of their cultural and spiritual identity. I think this is one of Baliâ€˜s greatest secrets: the natural connection between spirituality, family and sense of community combined with a love of learning, both practical and intellectual.

Blouse: reuben reuel nyc | Necklace: vintage | Sunglasses: dries van noten

PH OTOG RA PH Y BY Ju dith Hir sbr un ne r

153

Jacket & Culotte: ESSENTIEL ANTWERP | Bra: CALVIN KLEIN Jewelry: VINTAGE | Sandals: WHAT FOR

155

Bra: CALVIN KLEIN | Jewelry: VINTAGE

Dress: MAX MARA | Skirt: STELLA JEAN | Bag: MALIPARMI | Jewelry: VINTAGE Sunglasses: MATTHEW WILLIAMSON

156

Dress: STELLA JEAN Vest: MONTGOMERY Bag & Jewelry: MALIPARMI

Dress & Turban: REUBEN REUEL NYC | Jewelry: VINTAGE Belt: NDV PROJECT | Pants: TURNOVER | Clogs: GLOBUS

Photographer Judith Hirsbrunner | Styling Urs Affolter | Hair & Make-up PeterSchell.info | Model Victoria G @scout model Agency

Jacket: BEAUTIFUL STORIES | Underwear: CALVIN KLEIN | Jewelry: VINTAGE

159

Food Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

delledo

160

Viviana Malafarina`s vineyard Basilika is situated at the foot of the extinct volcano Vulture.

nne Quality prevails! And this applies to wine production, just as it does for magazines or the world of work. And yet the reality is often different, as female winemakers in the industry are still considered to be a rarity. In tradition-conscious Italy, three women, however, are busy proving to their male colleagues that they know their wine. A fine nose knows no gender ... by Antonia Ostersetzer

When Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino roams through her 800 hectares of land in Lombardy, she travels through her family heritage, the family estate of Conte Vistarino. It was Ottavia’s great-grandfather, Conte Augusto Giorgi di Vistarino, who imported the first Pinot Noir vines from France into Italy in 1850. South of Milan, in the wine region of Oltrepò Pavese, he established the noble Pinot Nero, still the poster child of the family. “I’ve always been fascinated by Pinot Noir, a variety which is characterised by its elegance and its mystery in the glass. And how my ancestors took it to their hearts,” says this dark-haired superwoman. Ottavia Vistarino took over the job as General Director from her parents to lead the family business into the future. Over approximately 200 acres of vineyards producing ten wines, there is also a Riesling in addition to the famous Pinot Nero. A generational change can be difficult, but it has quickly proven that Ottavia has grown into her task. Growing up in the elegant family estate of Villa Forn161

Food Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Leading the family enterprise in Lombardy is a matter of heart and mind for Ottavia Vistarino.

ace, she immediately saw the direction she was heading in. In just a few years, she had successfully used her great expertise and finesse to gently modernise the winery and to make it state-of-the-art. As her ancestors have done for over 150 years, Ottavia also lives in the yellow villa on the hills of Valle Scuropasso with her own family. Surrounded by dense forests, which grow on calcareous and clayey soil, Ottavia can continue to live the passion of the Vistarino family. Why are women and wine so well matched? If you are talking about the quality of wine, it is not just about the sensory quality, but also its image, history, emotions, and sometimes those ever so elusive details are what a woman will deem to be important or valuable. For a wine to captivate you, what should it taste like? It must be elegant and very well balanced and the expectations that it stirs in the bouquet must be discernible on the palate as well. A pronounced acidity, but it should be bound together with fine tannins. Wine is still a male-dominated domain. How have you earned the respect of your male staff, colleagues and customers? Unfortunately, I‘ve not earned the respect of all of those people except for my customers, who really appreciate both my commitment and passion.

162

I have to admit, no other product is as exhilarating as wine.

If I wasn’t a vine grower, I would be ... I would have probably devoted myself to another industry, but I have to admit that there is no product I find quite so inspiring as wine. Red or white? White.

Lucia Barzanò, however, shares responsibility for the family-owned Mosnel products with her brother Giulio. For 180 years, the Barzanòs have been creating excellent sparkling wines in the Franciacorta region. In

Food Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Lucia Barzanò`s vineyard Mosnel is this year celebrating its 160th anniversary.

Carmignone, near Lake Iseo, the so-called stony soil characterises the complex flavour of the bruts, the Pas Dosé or the Parosé, which was awarded “World champion” status at the 2014 Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championship. Reaffirmation that more young women are coming through. Because even in Carmignone, Lucia moves with the times: over 30 hectares of vines of the Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero varieties grow in the pure organic soil. 2016 is a very special year, especially for the women of the Barzanò family. To honour the 160th anniversary of the Mosnel vine, Lucia and Giulio have created the Extra Brut Millesimato EBB in honour of their grandmother Emanuela Barboglio Barzanò – she transformed the family farm of the 50s into a modern company and was one of the founding members of the Franciacorta denomination. Since that time, the Franciacorta wine region has been designated a D.O.C.G. region. Emanuela showed her granddaughter how to claim a place in a male-dominated domain through expertise and assertiveness. Today, she is Lucia‘s role model in terms of innovation and girl power, for the route her grandmother took was by far stonier than her own. Why are women and wine so well matched? I think that women have an instinctive approach to life and that’s also the same when it comes to wine. This allows them to capture its authenticity and share it with others.

Food Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Before Viviana Malafarina entered into the wine business, she had already been successful in other ventures.

For a wine to captivate you, what should it taste like? The wine should tell me something about the people who produced it and I want it to have an emotional impact on me. Wine is still a male-dominated domain. How have you earned the respect of your male staff, colleagues and customers? I think that the roles of women and men working in the wine industry actually complement each other. In recent years, women have launched a kind of peaceful, global invasion into the world of the over-fifties, paving the way for women in the world of wine. If I wasn’t a vine grower, I would be ... I would really like to manufacture organic cosmetics! I’m fascinated by the world of beauty products and for me, it’s about products that are produced naturally. Red or white? White, and preferably sparkling.

If you ask Viviana Malafarina about her route into the world of wine cultivation, she laughs. Because her way 164

to the top of the vineyard proved to be anything but conventional. But, like her colleagues, she used her ambition and her passion time and again to convince the sceptics, especially those that were male. Typically speaking, the South of Italy is still regarded as very conservative. And it was into the middle of this that Viviana Malafarina moved. Born in Genoa, she worked as a successful business woman for the company Orient Express, among others. Luxury trains have little in common with luxury wines, even though both require a keen sense of quality. Without a wine-savvy family or any relevant support structures in the background, the powerful Viviana joined the management team of the vineyard sited at the foot of the extinct Vulture volcano. From then on, she no longer looked over the rooftops of Genoa when working, but over lava grottoes and erupted volcanic soil – ideal conditions for two exceptional wines of the Aglianico and the Sophia variety, a 100% Fiano white wine. Self-taught, Viviana quickly learned that the winery, which was founded in the 1990s, had great potential thanks to its clay and tuffaceous soil. Her ambition was awoken. Over approximately 25 hectares of vine area, she began to produce pure organic wine at 450 to 600 meters’ altitude. The 80-year-old vines

Food Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

To share a passion evokes a team spirit that transcends gender.

of Aglianico del Vulture thrive all the more stronger between the olive groves and fruit trees of the estate. And when it comes to storing the barrels, Malafarina uses a particularly magical place. The Basilica-barrels are housed in ancient caves dating back to the 16th century. On the slopes there arises the image of an underground city complete with colourful doors, nestling at the foot of the Vulture volcano. Picturesque, traditional, and typically Italian. So if today’s leading wines are produced by today’s leading women in ‘la bella Italia’, does this herald the beginning of a new tradition? Why are women and wine so well matched? I wouldn‘t say that “women and wine“ make a better pairing than “men and wine”. Wine products consist of curiosity, passion, hard work and sensitivity. For a wine to captivate you, what should it taste like? I love a wine with character. Of course, it should be clean, with a nice acidity – something that surprises me a little and isn’t what I’m expecting. What is also just as important is that it shouldn‘t be too heavy, but should be something you can enjoy with a meal. Wine is still a male-dominated domain. How have you earned the respect of your male staff, colleagues and customers?

I’ve created respect by working hard and by working together with them. A professional approach is best for facing problems together. It is about sharing a passion for something as well. This can conjure up a team spirit that goes far beyond issues of gender. If I wasn’t a vine grower, I would be ... That‘s hard to say. I was many other things before I entered this world – a teacher, a sailor, a cook, a tour guide ... Growing vines is something that sums up all my previous passion for nature, art, people, culture, taste, communication ... Red or white? I think that white reveals more of the region of provenance, so my head tends towards the knowledge that white wine brings with it. But my heart says RED!

ABOUT / GO WARP ISSUE 54/55

Leute, Looks und Lebensart

MONACO

Timeless Speed

NEW YORK

Americaâ€˜s Cup

HAVANNA

Car Liberation

GO WARP

BORN ON THE TR ACK. B U I LT F O R T H E R O A D . The Audi R8. Join the #LeagueofPerformance

Fuel consumption in l/100 km: combined 12.3–11.4, CO2 emissions in g/km: combined 287–272. Figures on fuel consumption and CO2 emissions in ranges depends on which tyre/wheel set is used.

Big BigBang BangUnico UnicoSapphire. Sapphire. The Theinvisible invisiblevisibility. visibility.Scratch-resistant Scratch-resistantSapphire Sapphirecase, case, UNICO UNICOcolumn-wheel column-wheelchronograph chronographentirely entirelydeveloped developed bybyHublot. Hublot.Limited Limitededition editionofof500 500pieces. pieces.

hublot.com

BOUTIQUES BERLIN • FRANKFURT • MUNICH

Fuel consumption combined 8.1â€“5.2 l/100 km and CO2 emissions combined 189â€“120 g/km. Figures on fuel consumption and CO2 emissions in ranges differ by grade and wheel size on model. Model shown is the RX 450h F SPORT.

LIVE THE LIFE RX

The sophisticated new Lexus RX combines sharp, chiselled design with state-of-the-art technology. Inside, unrivalled luxury and superior comfort with features like hand stitched leather ensure an altogether more rewarding experience. Discover more at lexus.eu

CONTENTS Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

72 14

Speed 42 Albert Scopin Pitch Black

52 Bentley Slipstream

56 Lexus

Strong Style

66 10.197,77 kilometers Rallye Peking Paris

82 Monaco

Timeless Speed

118 America‘s Cup Formula 1 of the sea

38 Innovation

118

14 Plymouth

Prince & Princess

16 DS

Fantomas alive

Passion 20 Bacon Rust in peace

24 Ferragamo Total Tiramisu

90 BMW Keep Calm

104 Havanna Cuba on the run

58 Montreux Music is in the air 8

32 Beetle

The Beetle Revolution

34 Aquarien Fish flats

36 Christian Kerez

Floating through clouds

130 Mercedes Starstruck

Design Quality Magazin No. 25 – September 2012

DAWN A Rolls-Royce like no other.

After the darkness comes Dawn. Its striking silhouette transformed at a touch, its inviting interior opened to the elements – to friends, to the unexpected, to endless possibilities. Dawn lives in the moment. The moment is now.

For further information and inquiries please contact: Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Cologne Procar Automobile Michael Gleissner | General Manager Bayerische Allee 1, 50858 Köln | Tel: +49 2234 915 127 | Michael.gleissner@rolls-roycemotorcars-cologne.de Consumption (l/100km): Urban 21,2 / Extra Urban 9,8 / Combined 14,0. CO2-Emissions (combined): 327 (g/km). Exhaust Emissions standard EU5. Efﬁciency Class G. ©Copyright Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Limited 2015. The Rolls-Royce name and logo are registered trademarks.

contributors Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Norman Kietzmann Norman Kietzmann is the design and architecture expert of the quality team and every issue is enriched by his in-depth knowledge. Since 2003, the passionate journalist has been writing about these topics and has already won the renowned „COR Award for Housing and Design“ for his work. In this issue he deals with Zaha Hadid and her successor. The project by Christo at Iseosee is just one of several stair and bridge projects that he presents.

Christopher Puttins The young Berlin photographer Christopher Puttins shines with the subtle feel for what is worth observing and what is worth holding onto. His fine sense of aesthetics and imagery is evident in the „Think Tank“ track. He provides scenic photographic snapshots like a film director and endows them with elaborate direction.

ALEXANDRA FELTS As a now permanent member of the quality editing staff she is THE woman when it comes to the topic of motion. But even here, she looks at the bigger picture. In this issue, she deals with the Peking to Paris Motor Challenge: a classic car race that is somewhat reminiscent of Jules Verne‘s „Around the World in 80 Days“.

Esther Haase Rita Ora, Vivienne Westwood, Angela Merkel - Esther has photographed them all. Straight after her studies, the contemporary fashion and people photographer developed at a dizzying pace a permanent place at the cutting edge of the international art and media scene. Her secret: to create suspenseful and simultaneously uninhibited impressions. In this issue, she uses bright images to create the glamorous illusion in overwhelming colours.

contributors Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Aminata Sanogo The former Germany‘s Next Top Model contestant stands out: Endless long legs, a great dark complexion and full lips. Not for nothing has the dark-skinned beauty from Cologne worked prior to her participation as a model. In the track „Colorblind“, Aminata gives further proof that she is not only proficient at casual chat, but is also unbelievably photogenic.

Patrick Walter Eroticism, emotion and intense images appear before the inner eye - Patrick Walter succeeds in capturing this with his camera. The photos of the Berlin fashion photographer Patrick Walter possess a mysterious aura that draws the viewer into their spell. In „teardrop“ he demonstrates his talent in the usual way.

Ragnar Schmuck Filling inanimate things with life and presenting them so that they take on a character and tell a story. The Berlin photographer Ragnar Schmuck understands this well. The savvy still-life photographer takes photographs with great sensitivity and attention to detail. In this quality issue, he again demonstrates with the „BMW shoot“ the perfect realisation of an extraordinary idea.

Alex Schier Alex Schier‘s speciality: Exciting images, which develop into a fantasy world where one can dream. In his romantic „White Sand“ track, he revives the glamour of bygone days. It‘s fantastically beautiful!

jul-sep Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Bathed in light

“Everything flows” - Heraclitus’ theory of eternal change inspired designers Luis H. Vicencio, Fabrizio Guarrasi and Mattia Antonetti to design an exceptional light sculpture. True to the mind-set of the Greek philosophers, the Panta Rei Light Cube symbolises the concept of change through the interplay of light and depth. The unique lamp creates atmospheric, morphological effects in rhythmic intervals. For the really big questions in life. www.behance.net

At your fingertips Sunglasses may well be Karl Lagerfeld’s most striking trademark, but every bit as important are these fashion guru gloves. Statement gloves add a touch of sophistication and glamour to every outfit in the blink of an eye. Particularly extravagant are this silver pair by Chanel, made from beautifully soft leather. The cool couple with their eye-catching Tweetdetails exude rebellious rock’n’roll flair, making them the ideal companions for your next big city adventure. With this accessory, you can really exude some attitude! www.chanel.com

Silver Linings

The elegant Horex motorcycle brand is back, and this time with a model that looks as exclusive as it is. The VR6 Silver Edition High-End-Power-Cruiser is a limited special edition, with only 33 vehicles being produced. It’s equipped with numerous carbon components and refined chassis and brake components. But it’s not just the look that’s bringing the refreshed VR6 model into the 21st century. The globally unique 1.2 litre engine arranges the elegant pistons in a VR6 arrangement, providing a whopping 170 HP. A resurrection of pure class. www.horex.com

fly fly away The Swiss architect, Thomas Horvath, created the lightest kite in the world out of practically nothing. The ultralight kite – named “I’ll be back” in reference to the famous move scene in ‘The Terminator’, starring Arnold Schwarzenegger – can be used universally for both indoor and thermal flights. With its razor-thin sails, the original zero wind kite glides extremely quietly and spectacularly, slowly climbing a hundred meters upwards and decelerating away from everyday life, leaving people staring in its wake. 11 grams of pure poetry. www.horvath.ch 13

motion Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

he 30 M was the biggest yacht at this year‘s boat show and has been recognised as being a leader in its class. Similar to Project 31 from 50 years ago, the boat appears to belong to another era. But a lot can change in half a century ... The southern English shipyard is known for its distinguished workshops and great craftsmanship used to create their yachts. With the elegant, black Princess 30M luxury yacht, you can really take off into the maritime world. No other brand embodies “The Best of British” in terms of their craftsmanship, engineering, design and exclusivity quite like the luxury boat manufacturer from Plymouth. The new M-class from Great Britain delivers the goods with almost 2000 mhp – giving her the power to glide along the ocean at a speed of 27 knots. The Jacuzzi on the top deck is the perfect place to wind down and relax your mind. With numerous deck chairs and seating areas, you can easily relax on the spacious, luxury yacht deck. Everyone will find their favourite spot. The generous eating and living area, including a bar, offers the first-class comforts of five-star hotel, where you can wonderfully unwind from an exciting day at sea. On the deck below, several suites with stylish interiors, ensuite bathrooms and fold-out balconies offer exquisite comfort. It is a dream come true for all sea-lovers, who want a maritime favourite toy for a comfortable adventure on the high seas in a sophisticated ambience. No doubt even Daniel Craig alias James Bond would get a kick out of this classy power yacht!

Plymouth has more to offer than an excellent gin: they have a princess who was kissed awake 50 years ago. The luxury boat manufacturer Princess Yachts had a brilliant start to their anniversary year at the Boat Trade Fair and proved with their specially created Limited Edition M 30 that their Princesses are not only experienced, but have young and fresh appeal.

plymouth

princess

Plymouth does not only produce excellent Gin, also the luxurious yacht M30 is originated from the small English town.

prince W

hether it’s Tom Collins, White Lady or Martinez, hardly any other spirit drink is more commonly used as a cocktail base than gin. The Queen Mother attributed her long life to the clear water and, in India, many Englishmen drank it to ward off malaria. A very special distillate comes from Plymouth: Plymouth Gin is the only gin in the world with a protected designation of origin and the Royal Navy has considered it to be their favourite beverage for centuries. The bustling port city of Plymouth is located on the rugged South coast of England. For centuries, the main ingredient for the original Martini cocktail has been produced here in the Barbican district. Plymouth gin is in fact the gin mentioned in the original recipe. Something appears to have gone on when a single gin distillery within the city limits of an English port city has its own style – but, in order to be able to call it Plymouth Gin, it must be made in this town in the South West of England. Indeed, the characteristics of the noble liquid are unique and there is still only one distillery in the city that produces the traditional Plymouth Gin that follows the original recipe. This is the Black Friars Destillery, which is located in a 15th-century Dominican monastery. The Black Friars Brothers and their special recipe

had a great influence over the making of gin and it’s still this recipe that’s followed today. Typical English gin is triple distilled in a traditional copper bubble and receives its unmistakable bouquet from aromatic herbs such as juniper, cardamom, coriander and lemon zest. The result is a soft, earthy aroma that made it so popular, it became a permanent fixture in the drinks cabinets of Churchill, Roosevelt and Hitchcock. Gin was particularly popular in the Royal Navy: each new ship received a wooden box with two bottles of Plymouth Gin and glasses to assist with the launch. Although there have never been so many gin brands as you can currently find on the market, one of the most legendary is, and remains, Plymouth Gin. After all, there is a reason that it’s the only gin to be mentioned in numerous recipes in the famous Savoy Cocktail book, still considered to be the Bible of mixology. There is only one thing left to say ... Gin Chin!

In the British port city the parent company of famous Plymouth Gin gleams in white and blue.

By presenting the new concept car E-Tense, DS points at the future of luxury driving.

Fantomas by Matthias K. H. Arens

alive

f you know about Fantomas, then you know about DS! One of the most successful science fiction comedy figures of the 1960s was Fantomas, who used his imagination and guile to fight Interpol, while driving a DS with wings. Well, what else?! This car was full of character with its distinctive shape and features, contrary to many of its kind at the time. The interior furnishings also set real trends. A star was born! Apart from Fantomas itself, the Fantomas car also quickly achieved cult status among science fiction cars. Citroën, the parent company, also made some exceptional statements in the following decades when it came to cars, such as the unique SM, which was built between 1970 and 1975 as an outstanding sports coupé for the upper class. The car had an M in its name, which stood for the Maserati technology, while the S stood for sport. Followers of the brand, however, joked that SM was actually short for ‘Sa Majesté – His Majesty. About a year ago, DS was revived as the luxury brand of the Citroën group and since then their intention has been to build cars that garner at least as much attention as the famous movie car with its wings. Meanwhile, the brand has established itself on the market with fantastic small luxury cars; even style icon Iris Apple advertises the current DS 3. Now, the French have granted only two journalists a very exclusive insight into the future of driving. A sense of quality was everywhere when DS introduced the new E-tense concept car, which has been

motion Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

developed on the basis of an electrical car. Feel it, test it, drive it â€“ the future-oriented sports car has everything going for it. It combines all of the features found in the history of the parent company, from flying cars to pure power and the current philosophy of the DS brand. The E-tense accepts the inheritance of the great French luxury brand and combines craftsmanship with future digital technology. It is a completely unique car, both in terms of body design and driveability, a blend of luxury, high-tech, and high performance. As the future vision of DS cars, this avant-garde concept car has conquered the roads of the future when it comes to technology and design, and is symbolic of the beginning of the development of a high-performance electric drive. It brings together 516 nm torque and absolute silence, 402 HP performance and zero emissions, 4.72m in length and 1.29m in height, all wrapped up in a unique design. Just one brief moment gives you a glimpse into how the cars of the future might lookâ€Ś almost as inspiring as the adventures of Fantomas.

It brings together 516 nm torque and absolute silence, 402 HP performance and zero emissions.

Rust

in Peaceâ€Ś Photography Heribert Niehues

So-called barn finds are real treasures for vintage enthusiasts. Longforgotten four-wheel classics can be found tucked away in barns, in overgrown fields or under branches. The paint has peeled off, but the nostalgic beauty lives on. by Antonia Ostersetzer

s it the longing for the supposedly good old days or the recurrent spirit of discovery that drives Heribert Niehues across the USA? It‘s probably a combination of both. Ultimately, a jewel of a car could be hiding somewhere between the rugged landscapes of California and the deep green of Alabama. For decades, the photographer has gone on tour through the promised land of classic cars and documented his journey to arcane farms and ghostly desert cities. Deep into the American soul. The fact that there is usually no way of making the objects found by the barn find detector roadworthy is of no consequence. For passionate hunters and collectors, it‘s not about the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. It has more to do with the nostalgic, almost morbid radiance of dilapidated auto remnants. Niehues‘ relics, which he has showcased in the vast American landscape, have been collated in a new book. The contrast between the metal auto skeletons and the vibrant, blooming nature that has swallowed them up creates a spookily tranquil atmosphere that the title „Rust in peace“ could not encapsulate more aptly. But it‘s not only abandoned vintage cars. Derelict gas stations and old motels also complete the road trip feel as you leaf through the pages. Here, rusted radiator 20

grills and large road cruisers come face to face with empty diners and dilapidated pick-up trucks. To many observers, the auto graveyards merely signal rotten industrial waste, but to Heribert Niehues and other barn finders they symbolise their treasure hunts for picturesque classics, whose faded beauty they capture. â€žRust in peaceâ€œ collects these melancholic shots of American car dreams that once upon a time remained lying by the wayside and fell into a deep sleep.

Heribert Niehues, Rust in Peace. Automobile Discoveries in the USA. Delius Klasing Publishing, 2016

Travel Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Let´s cruise If you want to be the most laid back biker in Venice Beach or some other cool scene, then get yourself one of the brightly-coloured trend bikes by Martone Cycling and get all the glances when you are next cruising around. www.martonecycling.com

Like a boom-boom boomerang! Four years ago the Brussels firm Ecce Cycles took it upon themselves to explore new worlds in terms of cycle design. Mission completed! Their elegant bikes could never be sneered at as mere push-bikes – they look more like luxury designer objects with a frame not unlike a boomerang. Extremely stylish! www.ecce-cycles.com 22

Travel Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

Hand signals no more They are currently only available via Kickstart, but soon nearly every cyclist moving through the city traffic will be operating these ingenious Velohub indicators. The Swiss start-up firm is striving for more safety in the saddle by producing these click-on light-up indicators, which show which direction the cyclist is turning just as flashing indicators do on a car. A long-overdue invention which makes old-fashioned hand-signalling obsolete. www.blinkers.io

feeling safe Vanmoof are putting their new Smartbike onto the starting grid with a bold promise: If the integral tracking system does not track down a stolen bike within two weeks they will replace it. Smartphone connectivity and keyless locking make two wheels into one genuinely hi-tech bike.

Heroes United If two giants of the cycle sector like Hercules and Bosch collaborate on something a technical highlight is guaranteed. The Rob Fold F8 is a forward-looking ultra-light folding bike which is about to become a practical vehicle for everyone who wants to stay mobile all the time, everywhere â€“ thanks to innovative expertise. Unfold it; get on; away you go! www.hercules-bikes.de

www.vanmoof.com

In a unity of tradition and vision, the Italian brand Salvatore Ferragamo has for many years provided fans of perfume with refined creations, characterised by Italian finesse, elegant modernity and charismatic sensuality. In Florence, the fashion label has launched a new olfactory creation: Uomo – a men‘s fragrance which sprays pure joie de vivre.

Simultaneously to the premiere of the brand-new fragrance, Daniel Libeskind´s installation, “Florence Blossom” was revealed.

I Ben Barnes, Actor and Testimonnial for UOMO

n an almost magical atmosphere among centuries old oaks, ancient statues and fountains, Salvatore Ferragamo launched his new men‘s fragrance Uomo in the elegant Giardino di Bobili in Florence. „Scent of Life“ was the theme of the exclusive event in the ornate gardens, formerly created by the Medici family. This is also the inspiration for the new perfume. The new fragrance was created by the top perfumers Alberto Morillas and Aurelien Guichard from Grasse. The typical Italian fragrance is characterised by notes of black pepper, bergamot and cardamom. The perfumers could also bed inspired by tiramisu and the fragrance Ambrox: „Tiramisu has this very bitter, almost addictive aspect, while Ambrox evokes the history of Italy,“ stressed Morillas. The noble essence is dedicated to the type of man who knows how to enjoy every single moment of life. Clearly a man like the guest of honour at the illustrious event: Ben Barnes, actor and the face of Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo. The charismatic Brit, who is seen as a young Jeremy Irons, has wowed with his stylish, charming appearance. Accompanied by a haunting melody that was composed by Oscar winning maestro Nicola Piovani, he recited an excerpt from Patrick Süskind‘s novel „Perfume“.

Total

Tiramisu Ferruccio Ferragamo presents the latest creation of the house.

von Susanne Filter

Italy is a symbol of visible history and Florence is perhaps its best and finest example. In a lively discussion about Florence, luxury, elegance and sensuality, the guest art historian Philippe Daverio stated the following: „In Florence there was a big difference between luxury and elegance, where the former was even prohibited by law for a long time. The meaning of elegance was derived from the Latin word ‚electus‘. The act of making the exquisite selection is a sensual one. There was, therefore, almost an obsession with scents. In modern life, the world of the senses may get lost...“ But only almost, because ultimately major Italian brands like Ferragamo exist, which also continue to stand for sensuality and develop products such as the men‘s fragrance Uomo. Parallel to the perfume launch the sculpture „Florence Blossom“ was unveiled, which was specially created by New York architect Daniel Liebeskind for the perfume division of the long-established Italian company Ferragamo. The 13-metre high installation in Ferragamo‘s signature red colour in Piazza Santa Trinita is a tribute to the city of Florence: „In the way it reveals itself in order to disappear again at the last moment - which is similar to the way you interact with a city,“ says Daniel Liebeskind about his sculpture. The design, which is determined from a matrix of angular surfaces and lines, is the playful interpretation of a lily, the symbol of Florence. Miraculously, the artwork evokes the stories, scents and sounds of the city in the form of a futuristic flower coming to life and simultaneously makes the essence of the perfume by Salvatore Ferragamo visible: timeless elegance that is deliberately broken by contradictions. 25

spirits Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

A drop of bitterness

Away from the mainstream brands, forward to top quality Alkoholika. This is how the current manufacturing trend which Maximilian Wagner and Sebastian Brack have been following for the past two years could be described. With their Belsazar Vermouths in Red, Rosé, White and Dry, this start-up duo is showing the drinks scene that excellent Vermouth can also be created in Breisgau. It doesn‘t matter whether it is being used for cocktails of in gourmet cooking, this prizewinning Vermouth with its light sherry notes and memorable name is worth looking out for. www.belsazar-vermouth.de

New dress

Michael Michalsky made his name as a designer through his cool styling and modern materials. This creator of fashion has now been allowed to run riot in a completely new sector, re-dressing a genuine classic in a new frock. The Cava Carta Nevada by Freixenet is appearing on the occasion of the 75th anniversary of the firm in a smart, chic designer edition in the style of Michalsky. Semi Seco or Seco – at any rate muy cool! www.freixenet.de 26

spirits Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

ageless beauty

No Age statement Whiskies have started an ongoing discussion about the quality and transparency of this noble spirit. After all, the age given on the bottle has always been a reliable indicator for top quality enjoyment of the product. Longmorn, the Distiller´s Choice is proving that excellence is no longer a question of age. Awarded a gold medal by the International Spirits Awards, this un-aged single malt Scotch whisky charmed the jury with its deep aroma with hints of toffee and caramel and its well-balanced character. Taste is really not a question of age ... www.pernodricard.de

Old friends

Hugo, Uschi, Spritz - the revival of new old aperitifs carries on throughout the summer. Slightly fruity and in the loveliest pastel shades, these sundowners are now becoming all-night favourites. France is also re-introducing an old friend which immediately creates a Côte d’Azur atmosphere: White wine with Crème de Cassis, better known as Kir. The sharp fruitiness of the blackcurrant liqueur makes a promising liaison with the freshness of the wine and if you like it deluxe, you can always serve it with Champagne – et voilà – Kir Royal.

Konzerte Foto: Jim Rakete

Quality No. 50 – Dezember/Januar 2015

Drangsal 28.10.2016 Gebäude 9, Köln, Germany 11.11.2016 Keller Club, Stuttgart, Germany 19.11.2016 Lido, Berlin, Germany

Smalltown Boy Mysterium Consistently thrilling, but also exceptionally unpredictable: until now, newcomer Drangsal, alias Max Gruber, has had an outstanding reputation. In his “Allan Align” video, he forgives Jenny Elvers of all her sins, singing partly in English and then in German, his sound a bassy mixture of a Quentin Tarantino with wavy guitar riffs and hints of The Smiths. The cool underdog from Herxheim in Palatinate, Germany, splendidly mixes elements of post-punk from the 80s with cold wave, German new wave and electronic music to form a sound which sounds like a blast from the past. On his excellent début album “Harieschhaim”, with which he is going on an extended tour in autumn, the small-town boy makes it clear, demonstrated with his determined look, that he plans to have a great career.

concerts Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Sound Poets Sometimes, when life tastes as bitter as Campari Soda, all you need is a hug from a best friend – or a song. “Fix you” by Coldplay has just this effect – just as does the song by the German sister pop duo BOY – Valeska Steiner and Sonja Glass harmonise sadness and melancholy in a wonderful way. With feather-light folk pop, BOY melodically captivate and make the most out of every rainy day. The songs swing between love and desire, hope and belief, written by the two singers, who shine with crystal clear, unobtrusive voices. Current rhythms and songs full of zest for life with compelling depth form the musical core of this band, who will soon be going live on tour for all to see. Four years after the success of “Mutual Friends”, the pop graces published their second album “We were here” – following which they are now going on tour in Germany.

Foto: Debora Mittelstaedt

Boy 25.08.2016 Amphitheater Hanau, Hanau, Germany 01.09.2016 Serenadenhof Nürnberg, Nürnberg, Germany 02.09.2016 Parkbühne, Leipzig, Germany

concerts Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

His husky voice seems to be made for rock songs. The chiselled-faced Canadian has seen countless Top 10 Hits, platinum albums and music prizes, making him one of the greatest rock stars of the 1980s. Since he first celebrated his breakthrough album “Cuts like a knife” in 1983, his music has not lost any of its sensitivity, authenticity and pure exuberance during his career of over thirty years. In keeping with his promise of his “Let’s make a night to remember” hit, his fans were given a spectacular concert with uninhibited energy and adrenaline of pure joy. The Canadian working-class-rocker, who is going live on tour with his latest album “Get Up” and rock classics like “Run to you”, “Heaven” and “Summer of 69”, is without a doubt one of the most loved live performers. Rock on!

GET UP! Bryan Adams 01.10.2016 Rockhal, Esch-sur-Alzette, Luxembourg 04.10.2016 Arena Nürnberger Versicherung, Nürnberg, Germany

r Musikg

ic en

Die

It is time for ... good vibrations!

island in the sun Weezer There are many compelling good-mood songs. One of which is “Island in the Sun” by Weezer. The song makes you think of all those moments, where everything seems perfect – they don’t happen very often, but when they do, they are unforgettable.

walking on sunshine Katrina and the Waves Summer, sun and sunshine – “Walking on Sunshine” lets you joyfully anticipate relaxing bathing days in the lake and hot party nights. Listen and lift your spirits! And don’t it feel good?

california gurls Katy Perry Sunkissed skin, bikinis on top! The funky, good-mood west-coast number “California Gurls” featuring Snoop Dogg was the second track from the “Teenage Dreams” album to reach number 1 in the US charts. It’s the perfect summer soundtrack.

fly away Lenny Kravitz “Fly Away” is one of the most famous songs by Leonard Albert Kravitz. Published in 1998, the single reached number 1 in the UK Single Charts and brought Lenny a Grammy Award for the best male rock performance.

Summertime sadness Lana del Rey In the “Summertime Sadness” summer song, solemn string melodies meet succinct beats and Lana’s typical 50s style. It’s the perfect track to lie in the sun and feel its heat on your skin.

Summer in the city Joe Cocker The summer of 1966 in New York was so hot that the American pop band “The Lovin’ Spoonful“ created the summer track “Summer in the City”. The best cover, from at least 42 versions, is without a doubt by the rock legend Joe Cocker.

FAST CAR Tracy Chapman On the road to freedom – “Fast Car” by Tracy Chapman is one of the most successful hits of the 80s and managed to not only made the folk-musician famous, but make her the voice of a whole generation. It’s a song that after a short time you won’t be able to forget.

Little Red Corvette Prince Prince’s first Top Ten Hit was written in one night. He got the idea for the song after a long studio session, not in a Corvette, but in a pink Edsel. We bow down to the little great King of Rhythm.

HOLIDAY Madonna Holiday, celebrate! Here comes that holiday feeling! The pop song, that was first published in Madonna’s début album of the same name, was the superstar’s breakthrough, and she has kept reinventing herself ever since.

summertime Will Smith & DJ Jazzy Jeff Bright blue skies, pure sun and the pool is already warm. There’s nothing better than plugging your headphones in and listening to “Summertime” by The Fresh Prince AKA Will Smith and DJ Jazzy Jeff whilst rocking your head and smiling.

The Bee Revolution

motion Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

etle

by Matthias K. H. Arens by

For teachers, bakers and shepherds alike, a beetle your first car would be. Everybody wanted her, she drove and drove, from her no one did wear. Even if at times in her you froze and her engine noise you could not bear, and not even the cases wanted to get in, you did not care. A beetle it would have to be. And now if one drives by, memories of all the years flood in, Of sunshine and snow in that little old beetle, The wonderful memories with her you share.

here is no better description of the VW Beetle and its revolutionary effect in its day. In 1992, Volkswagen began working on a vehicle concept, based on an alternative drive system, in their American Design Center in the Simi Valley. Even back then, they had the aim to become completely emission free. When the designers Freeman Thomas and J Mays unveiled the VW Concept 1 design study as a modern interpretation of the old and well-established Volkswagen Beetle, people said that it was a retro concept car, which would not stand a chance on the market. In 1994 the Concept 1 was presented at the US American Detroit Motor Show. Contrary to expectations, the reactions of the visitors and trade press were surprisingly positive. In 2000, the global public was, in turn, presented the VW Beetle Dune study, but did this not lead to mass production. Now, 15 years later, Volkswagen is bringing the study of that time to the market and is presenting it in Noordwijk, in the Netherlands, as a Cabriolet and closed version. But why in the Netherlands? The first VW was actually exported to the Netherlands in 1947 and until 1967 it remained the most dominant brand in the country. Can the new model come close to the success of the past? The Beetle Dune is optically rounder and deeper, but is very luxurious for an open vehicle and reminds a little of the old VW Beetle. The massive 19-inch wheels make the vehicle appear visually wide and exclusive. The mechanisms on the inside of the car are an eye catcher, as they have also been kept in the retro style. After just a few meters, one thing is clear: It is a pure driving pleasure! In terms of the engine, the new Beetle offers Blue Motion Technology with 77 kW (105 bhp) TSI, as well as Blue Motion with 110 kW (150 bhp) TSI. But that is not all: The most powerful version comes with a four cylinder Otto Motor with 162 kW (220 bhp), a direct full injection, as well as Turbo Carger and therefore a Hubraum of 2.0 litres. This allows it to reach a speed of 228 km/h, providing lively and unique pleasure. The Beetles are flying deep into summer!

Half-open treasure chests and plastic ships? At the Japanese design studio Misawa, the times of corny aquariums are over. Waterscape shows you where fish from the modern world like to swim.

Minimalist: If all goes to Haruka Misawaâ€˜s plan, in the future, goldfish will be swimming through aquariums that resemble architectural objects.

Fish

flats

Photos: Masayuki Hayashi

by Antonia Ostersetzer

t was not for a little colourful fish catching your eye here and there, you would be convinced that you were looking at a minimalist design object or an architectural elegant sculpture. With the Waterscape range, the Japanese design studio Misawa have found their show-stopper: extremely purist, snazzy, yet still appropriate fish aquariums. Instead of having colourful sand and clustered, themed decorations in the „Pirates of the Caribbean“ style, these underwater inhabitants swim through white, geometric structures which look like they are floating. The head designer, Haruka Misawa, explains his fascination for the cubeshaped aquariums: “The concept behind Waterscape benefited from the interaction between gravity and buoyancy. Underneath the surface of water is a unique environment that exudes an energy which is completely opposite from that which is surrounded by air.” The combination of static design and living fish functions perfectly, conveying the precise calming mood that fascinates aquarium-lovers. It is hard to believe that up until now Waterscape has only made prototypes – it would seem as though a design-makeover of the old-fashioned blubber treasure chests is long overdue. Misawa and his team most-likely still have to fiddle about with the technical details, as they are still missing a stylish way to include aquarium pumps and filters. Time will tell!

Culture Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Floating through

clouds

by Christin Weikusat

sing the latest technology and the simplest materials, the exhibitor Christian Kerez, together with the curator Sandra Oehy, has created a spatial sculpture that can blend in with interactive art. The „Incidental Space“ project, which Kerez has brought to life in the Swiss Biennale pavilion, is one of the highlights of the 15th International Architecture Exhibition. Externally disguised as a cloud, the interior takes you on a cave tour with a difference. The concrete fibre room created through technology and manual labour departs from the traditional form and enters, with mountainous, smooth and sloping ornaments, an organic world of design that makes you think about the function and potential of architecture. The aim of the native Venezuelan was to create a space which finds its fulfilment in itself. The 54-year-old architect was able to implement this project, inter alia, using 3D technology and so create an abstract space in the room, which owes its shape to chance and thus corresponds to nature. In order to recreate the big picture emphatically in smaller form, digital scans of the designs are located in the „Sala di Scultura“. Entering the artificially created cavity, one quickly ascertains that it is not the spatial experience one would expect. Visitors grope, climb and move searchingly or even enjoyably using their own „moves“ across the room. It‘s clearly a completely different architectural experience! Kerez, who is also a professor at the Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich and even graduated from there, has recently become known internationally for his designs for an office building in Zhengzhou (China) and a social housing project in Brazil. Together with Meinrad Morger and Heinrich Degelo, Kerez designed the Liechtenstein Museum of Fine Arts in 2000. The Swiss representative is one of 88 participants who are still exhibiting their work at this year‘s Bienniale with the motto „Reporting from the Front“ until 27 November.

At this year‘s Venice Bienniale Swiss architect Christian Kerez demonstrates that a space can also impress when it comprises unconventional architecture.

3D technology and fiberated concrete, Christian Kerez‘ „Cloud Cave „.

What does my watch say? We tried to get rid of them but here they are again: Globe G-Shocks. If you came across these trashy watches in brightly coloured SmartiesÂŠ colours in the 90s, you will see that they are now presenting their hippy side. Designer Marcelo Burlon has now smartened up this cult item with his Country of Milan label and has designed a version that bears his signature. A darker look and a snakeskin pattern inspired by his Patagonian homeland turn this new old-timer into a stylish must-have. www.gshock.de

jewelry Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

GROOVY Paloma Picasso has inherited not only her famous father‘s name but also his creativity. Since 1980 she has been a permanent member of the Tiffany design team and is presenting her men‘s collection, which will also delight the world of women. “Paloma´s Groove” is just as laid back as the name suggests: smart rings, chains, armbands and cuff links in 18-carat yellow and rose gold, Sterling silver and titanium will adorn muscular young men this summer. Masculine, elegant and definitely for Tiffanyistas only. www.tiffany.de

mini polo Anyone wanting to make a classically elegant entrance this summer need look no further than Hackett cuff links. The traditional English label turns smart cuff links into extravagant eye catchers. Bowler hats, dogs, Polo logos – Hackett‘s roots are easy to identify but also suit gentlemen beyond the island kingdom. We are amused! www.hackett.com

Struwwelpeter During his travels in New Zealand the Italian designer Marco del Maso learned about the ancient Maori art of tattooing, known as Ta Moko. Its spiritual symbols inspired his jewellery label and extravagant accessories for men, such as his silver pin. Taken entirely from the indigenous look of the Maoris, the exclusive pearl-headed pin looks good on a hat, a shirt or a jacket. Maybe the evil eye also frightens away unwelcome spirits? www.marcotamoko.com

motion Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

HAND IN HAND

If the fuel cell car is really to sweep along our roads soon, it will need plenty of fuelling stations. This has caused industry to launch the „Hy Five“ project. The advantages of hydrogen propulsion – long range, short re-fuelling times and the long-term possibility of reducing CO2 emissions from traffic – are encouraging an increasing number of companies as well as national and public institutions to support the proliferation of this technology. Fifteen car manufacturers including Daimler, BMW and Hyundai are already involved, as are hydrogen providers like Linde or OMV and advisory companies such as Element Energy and PE International. The first hydrogen fuelling station opened recently in the London suburb of Teddington – 12 more are to follow this year. The cars have yet to be produced, however... /www.hyfive.eu

The child inside Toyota’s designers have created a convertible toy trailer especially for the 2016 Tokyo Motor Show. The Toyota Camatte Capsule Trailer is just 3.80 m long and 1.50 m wide and is both good-looking and convertible. This is only a virtual metamorphosis, however. Kids can use a Tablet to choose their favourite colour and theme and to design the interior themselves. There is a child in all of us! www.toyota.com

MOTION Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

Truck to plug

A plug-in articulated lorry called Nikola? Yes, you heard it right! Even trucks have come into the electronic age. The Nikola Semi One (called after Nikola Tesla) will be the first electrically driven hybrid truck with a whole 2000 horsepower under its bonnet. It is driven by six electric motors and generates the power for the 320 kWh battery itself. The gas turbine behind the cab acts as the generator. The tank is filled with natural gas. A prototype of the emissions-free Nikola One will be introduced in the course of the year. The exact date for delivery of these trucks has not yet been decided, but one thing is certain: itâ€˜s not just eco friends who should be excited! www.nikolamotor.com

cool cruise Cruising in the city takes on a whole new quality with the Carbon SUV E-Bike from the drawing board of engineer Zeno Panarari and designer Alessandro Tartarini. In collaboration with the young Moto Parilla brand and its striking designer e-bikes (maximum speed 25 km/h), they cater for a very individual taste. They have made it: the cool Carbon city cruiser with its laid back motor cycle looks certainly steals the show from other bikes! Getting out of the driving seat and saddling up on two of these environmentally friendly wheels is a real option. This monster truck among e-bikes is available now on Kickstarter. www.kickstarter.com

Pitch Black by Antonia Ostersetzer

Hard to handle, extremely hot and cumbersome on all levels – asphalt is not a pleasant material. Yet the artist Albert Scopin has spent several years working exclusively with the black substance. His latest project pushes all boundaries ...

It w

as th

rk t. New Yo hal s of asp reet h t t i w s k e partly destroyed to w o r pin Sco that inspired

Hard to tame: Albert Scopin works on the asphalt with a gas burner.

“ L

ayer by layer, Albert Scopin applies the steaming mass to large wooden panels. His hands are protected by fireproof gloves, working at a suitable distance from his favoured material. The painter, photographer and documentary film maker has been involved with viscous asphalt since 2012. An unusual choice, the common road surface of global cities and landscapes has finally made an impression – asphalt is universally well-known. And yet Scopin therefore represents the conceptual tradition of artists such as Joseph Beuys, who experiment so long and so excessively with such an everyday material to create something new. In the case of Scopin, it was the rundown streets of his former home in New York which inspired the Freiburg native to work with the rock-bitumen mixture. There, in the legendary Chelsea Hotel, Scopin launched his artistic career among the Warhol crowd, Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe. However, he only focused on the pitch-black substance in the middle of his career, when he had already been living for a long time with his family in Switzerland. There, Scopin approaches the tough asphalt with a gas flame, which he uses as a rudimentary brush replacement. Like a tamer, who approaches an animal that is difficult to tame and always maintains a safe distance, he begins his sweaty work, and in this respect he looks no different to road construction workers. Dirty, smeared in grime, full of chemical odours – asphalt art is not clean work. But for Scopin, the physically intensive examination of his material is part of the creative process. On occasion, this results in large, relief-like structures and sometimes the viscous mass is transformed into filigree layers that fan out the entire spectrum of non-colour black. Glossy or matt, coarsely coated or finely layered – one certainly doesn‘t think of a road surface in the case of Scopin‘s grainy work. And yet in his latest project the artist plays with exactly this function of his current favourite material: “Vertical Highway” is the spectacular installation of an eight-lane road section, which, among nature, is to rise 12 metres into the air over a width of 30 metres. The monumental object refers symbolically to a global cultural network and the conquest of nature by man. So far, “Vertical Highway” has not yet been realised, but for Scopin it would be the crowning achievement of his alleged street art.

Photos: Arno Dietsche ÂŠ Scopin

Food Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

“Cheese closes the stomach” is a popular phrase amongst foodies who are still not quite ready to part with exquisite delicacies after the dessert of a multi-course menu. It is with this feeling in mind that Davidoff was inspired to create a new cigar collection called “Limited Chefs Edition”, working in partnership with top chefs such as Léa Linster and Michel Trama. Master blender Peter Knogl conjured up an exceptional gourmet cigar, which gradually unfolds complex nutty, citrus and creamy aromas - a multi-course menu in itself. From one menu to the next! www.davidoff.com

Smoking Companion

what else?!

Lavish decadence at a luxury party in St. Tropez or fun party frolic with a twist? The new Champagne Gun is certainly a hot topic. The flashy utensil allows you to serve champagne mishap-free, although its real purpose is to allow you to spray luxury sparkling wine around, just as you would with a water pistol. And of course, only a magnum bottle fits! www.champagnegun.com

bbq unplugged

From outdoors to at home, the new Solar Cooker from Sun Stofey is an amazing gadget for all outdoor cooking. The glass cylinder traps the sunlight so effectively that the temperature in the insulated centre reaches 290° within 20 minutes, even when the sun doesn’t continuously shine. Whether it’s for roasting, cooking or grilling, now it’s simple. Chuck your ingredients in and the sun will take care of the rest. Amazing! www.sunstofey.de

Food Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

einkorn

It began completely innocently a few decades ago with spelt, which had an inconspicuous existence in the little-discussed organic rolls of well-stocked bakeries. Since then, ancient grains have become part of one of the most significant food trends and culinary rediscovery. Led by the South American quinoa, emmer, amaranth and kamut have all made their way into gourmet kitchens and street food markets. The new favourite: einkorn wheat. Originating from wild wheat, einkorn was domesticated around 6000 BC and is now experiencing a revival as a super food full of minerals and amino acids. Oldie but goodie! www. adressefehltnoch.com

Beauty Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

i wish you sun

No beauty holiday is complete without the right sun protection. With a feather-light texture, the All Around Safe Block Waterproof Sun Milk from the Korean skincare brand Missha doesn’t only protect the skin from damaging UV-rays with SPF 50+, but also nourishes it with natural ingredients. Perfect for sun worshippers who want to make the most of the sun’s warm rays. An absolute essential for carefree days on the beach. www.missha.net 46

beAch feelings

Konstantin Kakanias is known for his caricatures of the fashion elite, such as Anna Wintour and Carine Roitfeld. The renowned Greek illustrator has now taken inspiration from summer on the Côte d’Azur and designed the packaging for the SS16 Undercover Collection from Nars. The liquid “Overheated” lipstick from the collection illuminates with beams of sunshine and is perfect for everyday. It is without a doubt one of the most beautiful beauty products of the season. www.narscosmetics.com

golden choice

Inspired by the fragrant gardens of the Amalfi coast, Tom Ford has launched their limited summer collection with a heavenly touch of the Mediterranean. The delicately fragrant Shimmering Oil from the collection is an absolute must-have, giving you a seductive, summerkissed glow. The sensual, floral Private Blend scent Soleil Blanc seduces with almost addictive amber notes and irresistible nuances of ylang ylang and tuberose. Close your eyes and inhale deeply – enjoy the scent of a warm summer breeze. www.tomford.com

instagram filter in a bottle

We all know the Instagram filters, such as Amaro, Mayfair or Rise. Now its time to add an IRL filter to our vocabulary: Overnight Tan Sleep Mask Tan from James Read. Prior to any sun exposure, the tanning expert provides you with a fresh, lightly-tanned complexion in Gisele Bündchen style. Perfect for any spontaneous snapshots! Absolutely Flawless! www.jamesreadtan.com

exhibitions Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

getting satisfaction In the era of manufactured pop groups and hyped social media stars, it sounds unbelievable that the Rolling Stones can now look back on a band history stretching 50 years. The Saatchi Gallery has used this respectable anniversary as an opportunity for an extensive exhibition on the musical life work of Mick Jagger &Co. Private photos, films and unknown sound recordings are included – after all, the Stones are involved in designing the exhibition. And the title can be believed – the guys really are revealing everything. The Rolling Stones: Exhibitionism 6 April to 4 September 2016, Saatchi Gallery, London

bella vit(r)a Since its opening in 1989, the Vitra Design Museum has attracted not only fans of furniture design, but also fans of the renowned architects. That is because the Vitra Campus, its museum building designed by Frank Gehry and the so-called fire station by Zaha Hadid have themselves been considered attractions for a long time. As of now, it is joined by the new stockroom designed by Basel architects Herzog & de Meuron and one may be sure that the straight, spacious design will ensure a summer influx of visitors. After all, it is home to part of the extensive collection and estate of famous designers like Charles and Ray Eames. Stockroom Vitra Design Museum, Weil am Rhein

exhibitions Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

human nature How does man change nature? What are the effects of our actions on the ecosystem and the animals that live in it? Three artists deal with the pressing issues of today in the current exhibition “NatureCulture”. While Katya Gardea Browne uses her photographs to address precolonial agricultural practices from South America as a pioneering method,

biologist Brandon Ballengee presents his scientific research. In this, through the chemical process of “cleaning and dyeing”, he transforms deformed animals into transparent, aesthetic objects with brightly coloured cartilage and muscle, so that he can investigate the cause of the

deformation. These are very interesting works at the boundary between art and science. 2 July to 4 September 2016 Alfred Ehrhardt Foundation, Berlin

Radically female Big brands and the art world: since you can’t separate them. Even Louis Vuitton has created a space for contemporary art exhibitions with his own foundation in Paris. This summer, the Munich branch is dedicated to two important artists who use provocative videos and installations in a variety of ways to address feminist issues and complex questions about female existence, especially in the art world. Worth seeing!

Chantal Akerman/Annette Messager: Les Approches 4 March to 24 September 2016 Espace Louis Vuitton, Munich

Books Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Fast particles

When art and science meet in one person, creative forces are released which, in the case of Michael Horn, has led to an extraordinary book project. As a physicist, Horn works for the nuclear research organisation CERN on CMS, the famous, 25m high, Swiss science apparatus. The bombastic microscope, which missed subatomic fragments and enabled the spectacular proof of the Higgs particle, extends over five floors. As a photographer, Horn goes inside the machine and provides us with the aesthetic side of the awe-inspiring experiment, which was created by some 10,000 scientists working in collaboration. An impressive marvel made by human hands! Michael Horn CMS The Art of Science Lammerhuber Edition, 2016

Science meets art: Physicist Michael Horn also works as a photographer.

Ladies, ahoy! Enough of the myth that sailing is the preserve of men: “Frauen, die segeln” presents overdue proof that women have always been involved in sailing. Whether it’s the pirate Grace O’Malley or Olympic champion Virgine Heriot – in 30 exciting portraits it is clear: women were and are actively involved in sailing. Ahoy, ladies! Tatjana Pokorny, Lasse Johannsen Frauen, die segeln Delius Klasing, 2016

Best Buddies Many people know the 1971 cult film “Le Mans”. It’s not only racing fans that are captivated by the story of the 24-hour race in France. But what is less known is the lifelong friendship that developed between the German actor Siegfried Rauch and his American superstar colleague Steve McQueen during the filming. “Unser Le Mans” shows private footage of the buddies that has never been seen before, documents the shooting and proves that neither Le Mans nor the protagonists of the film have lost to this day any of their charm and cult status. Unser Le Mans. Siegfried Rauch. Steve McQueen – Der Film. Die Freundschaft. Die Fakten. Ed. Hans Hamer Delius Klasing, 2016

Where is Machu Picchu? Petra, Machu Picchu and Angkor Wat are just a few of the mythical places that were once rediscovered on risky expeditions. Historical maps and reports bear witness to the adventurous travels to places created by man, which then as now are among the most fascinating sites on earth. Travel journalist Francesca Mattéoli describes these expeditions and the legends that have grown up around them in her captivating new book. No matter whether it’s Route 66 or Greenland, whoever picks up a copy of Mattéoli’s book will be immersed in exotic worlds and can be sure to show off “special knowledge” during the next chat. Francisca Mattéoli Karten, Mythen & Geschichten [published as Map Stories in English] Prestel, 2016 51

Slip stream by Matthias K. H. Arens

he royal blue Bentley slows sharply and comes to a stop directly under the tail of the decommissioned naval aircraft. But the Continental GT V8S by no means fades into the shadows of this massive machine. The saloon has attracted the attention of speed junkies everywhere with its stunning architecture. You feel nothing but enjoyment when you look over the rear end with its new spoiler lip, which emphasises the sporty character of this dynamic British vehicle and provides double the fun when tackling sharp bends. The lateral air outlets in the “B” design, which are integrated into the front mudguards, underline what is already clear after test driving it on the airfield: it has real power! An impressive 528

HP make the car spring into life on the tarmac thanks to a 4.0-litre TwinTurbo V8 engine. With a speed of 1700 RPM, the exclusive GT V8 S generates a torque of 680 Nm, playfully beating the 660 Nm of the Bentley Continental GT V8 into second place. In the cockpit, various other design highlights are included with speed in mind. The threespoke steering wheel with gearshift paddles guarantees fun for every driver and the elegant longitudinal stitching illustrates how the dynamics of the new Bentley are also reflected in the interior. Incidentally, it only takes 4.5 seconds for this elegant V8S to accelerate from zero to one hundred – now it’s not just the aeroplanes that will be needing a runway ... Travelling at speed on the runway, the sky-blue Bentley Continental GT V8 S accelerates from zero to one hundred in 4.5 seconds

Unlimited power! When it comes to a decision of luxury saloon or turbines, then thereâ€™s no easy choice to be made. Would you rather speed off into the horizon or prefer to lift up into the skies? The new Bentley Continental GT V8S makes the decision a whole lot easier.

Gadgets Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

TGIF Sennheiser has brought a particularly colourful partner from Switzerland on board for this summer. The truck tarpaulin bags from Freitag are now as much a part of the big city outfit as cool headphones. Both sides thought it was time to collaborate, and they designed a brightly coloured Urbanite On-Ear edition in the Freitag design with matching case. Customised looks for music lovers who also think about Monday morning: Thank God ItÂ´s Friday! www.sennheiser.com 54

Flicker box Larger, flatter, smarter: Until now, the benchmark for exclusive TVs has been determined mainly by the degree of their technical finesse. With the Samsung Serif, whose seamless frame is reminiscent of an elegant shelf surface, the Bouroullec brothers have demonstrated that a first-class device can also be a modern design object, which in no way acts like a cooler foreign body next to the couch, bed and so on. Real TVs from the ultra-flat wall hangings of yesterday (again) are combined with four optional legs. www.samsung.com

PLAY IT LOUD, LOUIS! Fans of trumpet god Louis Armstrong prefer listening to him on vinyl. When the record player is out of reach, the new analogue smartphone speaker by Paolo Cappello comes to the rescue and imitates the beloved vinyl sound of classic and new songs. The name of the original wooden gadget: â€œLouisâ€?, of course ... www.newblack.it 55

motion Quality No. 54/55 â€“ Juli bis Sep. 2016

strong

Want to drive a big car and save money at the same time? The Hybrid SUV Lexus RX 450h makes it possible. With an intelligent combination of petrol and high performance electric motor, this gentle giant offers its drivers both power and driving enjoyment without any sense of remorse. von Matthias K.H. Arens

MOTION Quality No. 54/55 – Juli bis Sep. 2016

Exclusive interior: With leather interiors, decorative stitching, details in matte metal-look and a few gleaming surfaces, the Lexus RX is tastefully designed.

With almost insolent ease, the new generation of the Lexus RX beings to move. The hybrid flagship comes with a gigantic “diabolo” grille, which visually covers almost the entire front of the car. Just one single glance at the striking design of the SUV – with its muscular front and elongated silhouette, complete with elegant lines – reveals that this sleek SUV not only hides a powerful dynamic, but also intelligent technology. Powered by a 3.5 litre V6 petrol engine and two electric motors, this silent, electric style of driving can almost make you forget about the stress of the traffic. The Japanese SUV no longer uses an ignition key. Whenever you want to start the new RX, you simply use the Start button to awaken the 313 horsepower resting under the bonnet. This SUV has the characteristics of a limousine and it moves as dynamically along the road as it looks. 7.7 seconds is all it takes for this premium SUV hybrid to race from zero to one hundred and it can bring a top speed of 200 km/h to the table. As for the interior, it speaks for itself. Stylish real wood in a yacht-look with high-quality sewn leather and innovative technology means you won’t be ashamed to pull up between a Range Rover and Porsche Cayenne at the golf club. Quite simply, an impressively different approach.

style

event Quality No. 54/55 â€“ July to Sep. 2016

Hours do not strike for good music! The Monteux Jazz Festival may have opened its doors for the 50th time this year, but the renowned music veterans of the jazz scene, including Patti Smith, Quincy Jones and Herbie Hancock, managed to once again, as always, captivate their musicloving audience.

On the occasion of the 50. anniversary of the Montreux Jazz Festival, Parmigiani launched the Tonda Metrographe Bleu Abyss featuring a dial in a vinyl look.

Music is in 58

he watch brand Parmigiani Fleurier also celebrated its anniversary this year. Precisely 20 years ago, master watchmaker and restoration specialist Michel Parmigiani founded Parmigiani Fleurier with Pierre Landolt, president of the Sandoz Family Foundation. And in none other than Lausanne, on Lake Geneva! Precisely this perfect mixture of an atmosphere of simplicity, warmth and an additional dose of non-pretentious luxury made the ideal breeding ground for the company. These same values spurred the founder of the Montreux Jazz Festival, Claude Nobs, in the 60s to bring life to this highlight of the jazz scene in Montreux. It was created through an untiring desire to hear perfect sound quality and the great beauty of music. Michel Parmigiani would no doubt say the same about watch making. Thus, Montreux became a place whose luxurious watches attracted customers and friends from all

around the world every year to a special come together. This year, for the first time, it took place in the new Parmigiani Lounge, meaning that not only was it possible to listen to soothing jazz sounds, echoing up from the promenade, whilst relaxing with a magnificent view over Lake Genevaâ€˜s shoreline, but you could also marvel, touch and try on the new Parmigiani watches. For the special occasion of their 50th anniversary, Parmigiani Fleurier has designed a MJF special edition of the Tonda Metro, of which 20 models were produced. At the end of the concert programme, selected young and emerging artists received this model as a gift. The royal blue clock face is particularly stunning, which has been delicately decorated with azur. Thanks to the lack of digits, the reference to good old vinyl records is well emphasised. As has been said: Hours do not strike for good music!

the air

by Susanne Filter

WahlMany of them live in Berlin, but their work is currently being displayed in Riga, Latvia. Very much in the spirit of Goethe‘s Elective Affinities, 53 artists are displaying what art in Germany in the 1960s was all about in the same retrospective. From Baselitz to Bisky, from Kwade to Kiefer by Susanne Filter

In your opinion, was your personal masterpiece, displayed in the exhibition, well chosen? Why is it a true masterpiece? Norbert Bisky: My piece “Übergepäck“ [Excess Baggage] is an example from a whole series of work from the past years, in which I focused on instability, uncertainty and my view of a world in tatters. Ruprecht von Kaufmann: Well, to begin with, I have an issue with the term masterpiece. Superlatives, such as hero, genius, child prodigy are, in my opinion, far too commonly used in modern language. The consequences of this are that these words are being worn out like an overused favourite outfit. For this reason, I do not even know where to begin with the term masterpiece. For me, every piece of art has a particular importance as a step in my artistic development. Sometimes that means pieces that have a lot of meaning to me personally, and not necessarily those, which others consider to be important. In the end, I think that in the best case you can try to make retrospective 60

Foto: ©Michaela Kühn

hat is German art all about? In the Arsenāl exhibition hall, curator Mark Gisbourne has dedicated himself to answer this question through 74 items, which he has carefully selected. Just like a summit, until the end of August, paintings, sculptures, photographs and drawings by Christiane Möbus, Gerhard Richter, Ruprecht von Kaufmann, Jonathan Meese, Julian Rosefeldt, Jörg Immendorf, Markus Lüpertz, Jorinde Voigt, Neo Rauch, Sigmar Polke - to name but a few - will be gathered in the Latvian capital. The who is who of the local art world needed to go far up north to find each other. It means that the energy of the affinity works, which fit perfectly to Goethe‘s concept of relationships, that spontaneous links and correspondences arise from different artistic perspectives, is all the more illustrious. The many displayed artists have one thing in common: Berlin. But why? Chief Editor Susanne Filter asked herself, and broached the subject with painter Norbert Bisky, proponent of post-modern new realism and with Ruprecht von Kaufmann, who is displaying his work „Die Gefangenen“ [The imprisoned].

culture Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

verwandtschaften of the whole development of my work, rather than trying to pick individual pieces out. To do this in the middle of a living artist’s career seems, in my opinion, just as absurd as to organise a retrospective after a new artist has had just three exhibitions. To come back to the first part of your question: I can completely understand Mark’s choices, as the artworks perfectly fitted the context of the exhibition. I felt very well represented by the piece he chose for me. Almost all of the artists who were present in Riga knew each other well, were their displayed artworks what you expected? Norbert Bisky: I was truly amazed by the collection of artwork that was displayed. Ruprecht von Kaufmann: There were not many surprises, as we often have the chance to see each other’s work (particularly of our more famous colleagues), and often live. For this reason, little was unexpected. The very democratic and worthlessness hanging surprised me, which allowed the observer to create their own image.

An in-depth look: Norbert Bisky is contributing his work „Excess Baggage“ to the exhibition in Riga.

What does the theme Affinities mean to you? Almost all of you actually live in Berlin, is that not a kind of affinity in itself ? Norbert Bisky: The family that we choose on our own behalf is definitely just as important as the family from which we come. Ruprecht von Kaufmann: WOf course Berlin is an affinity, because Berlin at the moment is a place to which many artists are moving, from both Germany and abroad. All of these people chose to make Berlin their home. Whether

Foto: Norbert Bisky, Übergepäck, 2008, oil on canvas, 200x275cm

or not this is telling of ‘German’ art itself, I am a little doubtful. The exhibition demonstrated very well that we have reached a point in history, where national identity only plays a minor role in the cultural scene. That at the moment, politically, there is an opposing development to be observed is one of the ironies of a history which is explored in a tragic way in Stefan Zweigs wonderful book ‘Die Welt von gestern’ [The world of yesterday]. Why has Berlin become such an exceptionally popular place for artists? Why are you here and not somewhere else? Norbert Bisky: Berlin remains the freest place for artists in Europe. The city does not take itself too seriously and has a wonderfully scepticism towards all protagonists. I hope that it will stay like this for a while to come. Ruprecht von Kaufmann: I lived for many years in Los Angeles and New York. When I moved back to Europe, Berlin was the only alternative for me, as it is perhaps the only cosmopolitan city in Germany. I was really attracted to that. And I think that that, as well as the relatively low cost of living in comparison to other cities, is also, what brings many artists here. Could you picture such an exhibition working well in Berlin or in Germany? Norbert Bisky: This collection of artwork from over 50 years would most certainly be interesting for other places. Ruprecht von Kaufmann: Not really. In Germany, such an exhibition would be too political.

Among colleagues: Ruprecht von Kaufmann lives in Berlin, as do many of the artists who perform in Riga.

Germany goes to Latvia: The exhibition „Elective Affinities“ presents a major retrospective of German art since the 1960s.

I had the impression that the whole meeting in combination with the artworks and the exhibition created a very special energy, leading to a certain bizarreness. Did you also feel that way? Why do you think it was so special? The energy was very special: When else do so many extraordinarily interesting people gather in one place. It was the ultimate ‘Nerd’ field trip. It is explicitly a German exhibition. What do you think makes the exhibition, and what makes it and the artwork so “typically German”? It cannot just be all sharing the same passport...In your opinion, is there an identification with the German culture? There are most definitely national characteristics, which are difficult to escape, as each person, when pushed to breaking point, returns to their origins. But these are constantly exposed to change. In the USA, people often said that my pictures evoked feelings of typical German ‘fear’. But over there, they also said that the light in the pictures was typically German, whereas many in Germany said they could see the influence of Californian light. (Which is also not the case, as light, both here and there, constantly changes) Much of your artwork was completely quite a while ago. As an artist, do you nevertheless have a very strong connection to it, or does the connection to your own work change over time? For me, it was not so long ago that my work left the workshop. Visually my pictures have changed a lot. But it is work to which I, to this day, still relate. However, I do find it weird to see my work years later: they do not really feel like ‘my’ pictures anymore, but rather as if they now lead their own lives. What was your favourite piece in the exhibition, apart from your own? And why? Julian Rosenfeldt’s work was my favourite. He is simply a very wonderful artist.

Compactly packed Enchanting villages picturesquely surrounded by imposing mountains, lush green meadows and crystal streams. Undisturbed nature provides the dream backdrop to a dynamic test drive in the new Audi A3. The country road winds through the idyllic Bavarian landscape with its near-Tuscan character. The Bavarian Alps around Munich stand out majestically on the horizon as the new A3 storms towards the picturesque villages. The A3 has been the Audi perennial favourite for more than 20 years. The premium compact car with its typical Audi architecture is now even smarter on its wheels, has added power under the bonnet and has a whole host of new extras. First impressions: the new model makes an even sportier and more expressive impression than its predecessor. The grill is sharper; the headlights shine through narrower slits. But work has been done on more than just an optical facelift – things are happening under the bonnet as well. First off – there is a three-cylinder in the successful Audi compact series coming onto the market. If you want a nippy turbo then the Audi S3, suped up to 310 metric horsepower could well be what you are looking for. There is a choice of three performance grades in diesels – 115, 150 and 184 metric horsepower. Following the Audi TT, Q7 or the new A4, the compact A3 can now be ordered with the renowned virtual cockpit with its 12.3 inch TFT windscreen. A whole range of ADAS such as congestion, intersection or lane change assistant, already well-known in more exclusive models are setting the bar one stage higher in the compact class. Whether it‘s three-door, cabrio, sportback or limousine – the A3 is here to stay in the compact car class. 64

motion Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

Sporty icon The slopes of the Alsace Vosges with their multi-faceted landscapes are enchanting. The lively colours of the high pastures melt into the subdued greens of the pine forests and the rounded form of the undulating countryside and gentle valleys. In the midst of this landscape with its widespread vineyards, it soon becomes clear that the new diesel SUV Audi SQ7 TDI is bursting with energy. The first sports model in its series sprints in only 4.8 seconds from 0 to 100 km/h and then on up to 250 km/h. With its 435 metric horsepower, 900 Newton meter maximum torque performance and brisk, sporty handling, this SUV takes narrow lanes and bends in roads at an altitude of 1250 m in its stride. The V8 diesel especially lives up to its „S“ on bends. The 4 litre diesel also makes use of a global first: an electric compressor, which supports the two exhaust gas turbochargers even at low rpm. Turbo lag is a thing of the past. Curve inclination stabilisers keep the Audi SQ7 safely on track even on sharp bends. The design is attractive because of its angular shape – the new SUV is sporty and streamlined. Inside as well the SQ7 shows attention to detail and its feel-good ambience meets the most exacting demands. As well as individually adjustable digital instruments, a head-up display projects all the most important information onto the front windscreen. Not only that – Audi has sharpened up the new Audi TDI technology inside and out – from LED headlights to sports seats. This Bavarian bull is sporty, then.

Waiting in the wings Excitement in the idyllic Taunus! For where serpentine tracks wind their way through the Hesse mountains, the new Audi S4 is waiting impatiently for the the start gun. The S model in Audi A4 portfolio dynamics unites an improved design and performance to reach a level on par with sports cars. The new dynamic hotshot S4 from Ingolstadt is equipped with an innovative three-litre TSF motor and zooms through the Rhineland landscape with 354 horsepower under its hood. Travelling at a top speed of 250 km/h, it is a sight not to be missed. Quality tested an impressive version of the A4 on the winding countryside roads: Permanent four-wheel, new Turbo-Drive and reduced consumption make it impressive from top to bottom. Conclusion: The real power pack – whether it be in the Limousine or Avant version – has more than earned its S stamp on its rear.

What is an adventure? Sir Edmund Hillary, the first climber to reach the summit of Mount Everest, had a short, but sweet answer for this question: when the outcome is unknown. In mid July, around a hundred vehicles will cross the finish line at the Place VendĂ´me in Paris. They will be both exhausted and overjoyed to climb out of their expensive, battered up and muddy classic cars in which they have travelled over 13,650 kilometres in the last few weeks, covering every imaginable scenic obstacle and navigating through eleven countries. And they will have successfully completed the 6th legendary Peking to Paris motor race, known as the longest and most difficult tour for classic cars. There is no cash prize for winning the relentless road trip, but a magnum of champagne and trophy, owned by barely anybody else in the world - as well as priceless experiences and travel snapshots in their memories. by Alexandra Felts

The organizers provide catering and fuelling-up, even in the great empty spaces, however, the participants of the Peking to Paris rally must be able to take care of the rest.

10,197,77 kilometers

Rally Peking Paris

Classic car enthusiasts‘ cosmos is just as vibrant and varied as the rest of the world. Some take their favourite with its special H-number plate out of the garage for a coffee stop at the weekend, others book a regularity rally against other link-minded people through Roadbook, comprising of many tricky tests, which should perhaps also be considered as stress tests for relationships. While others still fulfil their dreams of experiencing the moments of great champions in Le Mans or in Monaco in their own classic race cars. Passionate collectors, on the other hand, proudly display their precious cars on the immaculate lawns of diverse Concours d‘Elegance in glamorous settings, such as at Lake Como or at the Californian Pebble Beach. And then there are the crazy ones with the same spirit as Hillary, who sign themselves up to a long trip from Asia to Europe, which exposes both man and machine to constant torture. The 6th „Peking to Paris Motor Challenge“, as it is officially called, started in mid June in front of the Great Wall of China and over the course of 35 days, will take the participants through Mongolia, the Gobi desert, Russia, Belarus and Eastern Europe to the Alps, St. Moritz and then through France to eventually reach the desired final destination, Paris.

You might have heard of Nowosibirsk, or at least the name. Datong? Murun? Zavidovo? Whoever drives past the civilised shores of Lake Geneva like US-Americans Steve and Katherin Trafton in their 1915 American LaFrance Roadster (incidentally the oldest car), or Germans Helmut Rothenberger and Michael Schmidt in their 1924 Bentley Super Sports, or English Isobel and Nicola Matthew driving their 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250 SL, will experience completely different, wild and unfamiliar impressions. In Mongolia, the participants stay overnight in tents, through the heat of the Gobi desert they travel on barely marked, bumpy tracks, they cross questionable bridges, and make their way round tiny hairpin bends, and ramps and slopes which would push the radiator and braking system of any vehicle to the edge. The daredevil participants from 24 countries prepare for the Peking-Paris trail for at least two years. With day trips of up to 600 kilometres over treacherous territories, sometimes sand actually gets

stuck in the old gearboxes, causes the steering system to fail and the tyres to burst from wear and tear. You need to be able to fix the situation, even if your hands ache with the steering wheel, your face is covered in oil and dust, and you feel every bone in your body. The organisers from the Endurance Rally Association, who also keep things rolling at athletic tours such as the Flying Scotsman or the rally from Kapstadt to London, offer a certain infrastructure; for example, fuel stations in the middle of nowhere and catering services. The crew not only have to look after their camping equipment, but also have to carry spare parts and wheels - even if all they travel in themselves is a little Cabrio. The accompanying engineers can, of course, come to your aid, but it essentially up to each individual to take responsibility for their own special adventure. The same applies for Australian Gerry Crown, who at 84 is not only the oldest participant, but is also doing it for the sixth time.

he classic cars are just as remarkable as the spirit of the crew, who volunteer for free, risks and all. In this race, the cars are so elegant and historically important, that you will not want to call them old-timers. Apart from the old American Roadstern, which was built during World War I, several open Bentleys participate, whose historical stable mates sunbathe in the gleam of a Concours and, at best, are only allowed to drive up the little ramp for the awards ceremony. Along with a Rolls-Royce, an Alwin and many Fords, which came to the world before World War II, a few British Bristols, an Alfa Romeo Giulia Super, a couple of Porsches and even a Mini are all at the party. Aston Marin, Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Jaguar - almost every brand is taking part in this difficult tour. If you take the number of breakdowns of the high-performance and technologically-upgraded racers at the allyear-round Dakar rally in South America into account, it really makes you admire the resilience of old mechanics. An English couple entrusts themselves with a 1954 Sunbeam Alpine. This elegant Cabriolet is not only well-known to die-hard petrolheads, but also to film enthusiasts. In „To catch a thief“, Grace Kelly gave Cary Grant heart palpitations with a racy drive down the Corniche on the Côte d‘Azur. In the film, as was normal back then before they had moving film sets, you can barely recognise the grand scenery of the Peking - Paris trail.

While other classic cars simply roll up a lavish concours podium, the vehicles facing the challenge of the Peking to Paris rally need to navigate unruly and truly riksy routes.

Mechanics, spare parts and tires as well as their personal bags need to be stowed in the car of each team - even needing to find space in a diminutive Mini.

CEO and a rocket scientist are also participating. Unlike many other historical motor sport events, you do not necessarily need to be a millionaire to take part in this nonetheless expensive hobby. You just need put aside other priorities and suffer in silence. But just like the Borghese Prince, you would also complain at the endpoint in Paris: „Gentlemen, at the beginning of the rally you said that it was impossible to travel from Peking to Paris. You were right, it is nearly impossible.“ The Italian aristocrat won the first round, as announced by a French newspaper in 1907. He had engineers on board and ordered a car to be built for him for the race - it somehow reminds you of Jules Vernes book „Around the world in 80 days“. Rules in that race were as non-existent as Google Maps and GPS, which nowadays form part of the basic equipment of the cockpit. After this celebrated performance, the world‘s history got in the way. But from 1997, the trek through some of the most isolated and beautiful regions in the world, steeped in tradition, was brought back to life. The trail has been tweaked time and time again: sometimes the route to Paris went via the Baltic states and Germany, sometimes it went via Turkey and Greece. However, it has always faithfully followed the legendary old route through central Asia, marked by the renowned silk ribbon, along which faraway luxuries were brought to delighted European customers. It took over 60 days, before the Prince was able to drink champagne to celebrate his achievement. In second place, incidentally, came an adventurer who earned his entry free as an entertainer on board a ship and often stole petrol from other competitors along the way. Perhaps this year‘s participants have the same mindset as Edmund Hillary did long ago. They know exactly what adventure means. And just like climbers, who make their way back from the summit exhausted and triumphant, they are also already planning for the following Peking - Paris to come in three years time.

Outfit: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Think tank

Photography Christopher Puttins

Industrial Hotspot in Charlottenburg! Unser Think Tank Fashionshoot zwischen mächtigen Öltanks in der zukünftigen WerkBundStadt Berlin.

Suit: BALLY Shirt: DIOR HOMME

Coat & Turtleneck: VERSACE Vest: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

Left: Blouson: BELSTAFF Shirt: PRADA Right: Shirt: PRADA Blouson: LOUIS VUITTON

Outfit: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Boots: DIESEL BLACK GOLD Motorbike: BMW R NINE T

SCRAMBLER

Blouson & Pants: BRIONI Shirt: DOLCE & GABBANA Shoes: BALLY Hat: BOTTEGA VENETA 7

Left: Shirt: MARNI | Bomber, Kilt & Pants: DRIES VAN NOTEN | Shoes: LUDWIG REITER

Right: Shirt: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | Coat and Pants: EMPORIO ARMANI | Shoes: DIOR HOMME

Photographer: Christopher Puttins | Photography Assistant: Laura de Wit, Daniel Schwarzer | Styling: Mareen Bayer @Jen Hahn Styling Assistant: Isabella Zelori | Models: Julian @Kult Model Agency, Maxim @Modelwerk | Location: Das Shooting fand auf dem GelĂ¤nde der zukĂźnftigen WerkBundStadt in Berlin-Charlottenburg statt. (www.werkbundstadt.berlin)

Pullover: FENDI Coat & Pants: GIVENCHY

Coat: DRIES VAN NOTEN Shirt: GIVENCHY Pants: ETRO Boots: BURBERRY PRORSUM

Tim 1

The air in the small Principality of Monaco is heavy with the smell of petrol â€“ once again, the time has come: the town is overrun by the Monaco Historic Grand Prix. On top of the yearly Formula 1 race, every two years the motor sport stars do the honours of running a few laps around the glamorous circuit.

meless Speed by Susanne Filter

he roaring motors on the track are at times louder, at times quieter, yet definitely present. Rare Maseraties, Bugattis, Alfa Romeos and Mercedes wind around the tight CĂ´te dâ€˜Azur streets. From the Casino, through the tunnel and past the luxurious yachts - Monte Carlo is a racetrack with legendary bends. It is a sight and sound that will long remain in your memory: Historic Formula 1 Racing brought to life. The Ensign N176 with its ex-GP-driver Alex Caffi was by far the fastest combination on the track and won the race ahead of Japanese Katsuaki Kubota in the March 761. The Historic Grand Prix is definitely one of the most beautiful classic car races in the world and is hosted by the legendary Automobile Club Monaco, an elite group of motor sport enthusiasts. The racing event is

under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco. There is hardly any other motor race in the Formula 1 calendar that can match the glamour of the Monaco Grand Prix. More than 230 cars took part this summer in this prestigious event in the most famous town circuit in the world. For the 10th time, the Monaco Historic Grand Prix offered first-class luxury. Formula 1 car models from the 50s, 60s and 70s took centre stage, fought and raced together to win the race. Watches and cars have two things in common - top precision and sporty elegance. The same applies for the legendary Mille Miglia, which takes place just a few days later in Brescia. It is well known that watches and cars go hand in hand, and it is therefore no surprise that the watch and jewellery maker Chopard has been closely collaborating

Legends: The former Formula 1 racer Jacky Ickx looks back at his career of more than three decades. For almost just as much time, he has been supported by his close friend Carl-Friedrich Scheufele, CEO of Chopard. To this day, Jacky Ickx remains one of the most talented motor sport stars of the century. Carl-Friedrich Scheufele talks to racer Brendon Hartley. The successful driver for the Porsche team is known for the 24 hour race in Le Mans.

The race is on! The Porsche Classic Cars prepare themselves for the race.

with the Historic Grand Prix since 1997, and is the timekeeper for the race. Moreover, the partnership is a true love affair; Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is, after all, a collector of classic cars himself and Formula 1 veteran Jacky Ickxx has been one of his closest friends for decades. In Monaco, Quality interviewed the beautiful cars and watches enthusiast. You have retained a kind of down-to-earth attitude about you. If you had to describe what your family does â€“ who are, after all, part and the DNA of the brand, which you have developed â€“ what are your underlying values and how do you carry the brand? First of all, our parents taught us from a very young age that you have to keep both feet firmly on the ground. And at the same time, they taught us that we had to 85

The hull of the Porsche fits like a glove (provided that you have kept an eye on your figure)

â€žDas ist wahre Manufaktur-Arbeit!â€œ â€“ Karl-Friedrich Scheufele

Not counting the secret garage... There are well above 15. Cars need to be constantly cared for. They are not like pictures that can just be hung up on the wall. You can only compare them to horses. In that they require much more attention. My daughters rides horses and I prefer cars. It is fine to leave the cars in the garage for four weeks. But if you leave and do not drive them for two years, it becomes precarious. stay true to the term manufacture, that everything should be made internally within our company. Although we display a lot of glamour on the outside, as it is part of the brand, not everyone realises that we have 30 in-house craftsmen and that we produce everything within the company, from the jewellery to the watches to the clock mechanisms.

whole works beneath the bonnet and I passionately admire car restorations. I love it almost just as much as driving cars. It has always been an interest of mine from a young age. When I was younger I used to collect little cars and now I collect big ones. And the watches keep the same mechanics in a small size. It is an everlasting cycle ...

So you do not buy anything in? We purchase very few things. 20 years ago, I decided to tackle clockwork mechanism manufacturing and brought it to life, or back to life, in the company and we have now reached a stage where we can truly say: yes, we are a manufacturer. And that is the most important thing, not just to appear high-quality, but to be high-quality.

What is your favourite car in your collection? That is like asking me which one of my children I prefer... I cannot answer that.

Do you also personally get hands-on and involved in the work? Yes, to this day I am involved in the design of the watches, as I am a trained goldsmith and can therefore participate in discussions. Nobody can try to fool me or tell me that something is wrong. As a business owner it is important to understand exactly what your employees do. Does this craftsmanship also appear in your private life? I would love to do that, but unfortunately I do not have the time for it. I know the

We have spoken about this affinity between watches and cars. Do you have many watches and do you stand in front of your cupboard every morning and choose the appropriate watch for your day? Or have you worn the same watch for years? I have at least two or three watches that I alternate and normally one of them is for testing. Sometimes it is a watch for a customer that I need to test first. If an unsatisfactory watch ever emerges and I hear of

But cars will not get offended if you pick a favourite. Nevertheless, the comparison is difficult. Try to compare a 1968 Mini Cooper with a fully-fledged 1929 Bentley... But if I had to, it is probably the first classic that I bought. A Porsche Speedstar. I was 27 years old. And it was really quite extravagant. And on top of that, it was also really in need of restoration. Turns out that it was beautiful on the outside, but not so great on the inside. And then she was away for 2 years. When the paint first got stripped back, she looked like Emmental cheese. And you still have it today? How many cars have you collected to this day? My wife is sitting with us. I cannot reveal that.

Carl-Friedrich Scheufele carefully looking at the finer details with love.

The short, winding laps of the race course in Monaco take everything the drivers have. Not every race ends accident-free. This year, they got off lightly.

it, I often write a personal letter to the customer. Then they know that I also tested the watch. For example, at the moment I am testing a watch that we will be revealing in October. But within two or three weeks I switch the programme around. And this watch, that you are testing at the moment, does it have any special features? The most significant thing is the mechanics that we have been working on for five years. It has taken thousands of hours and it is the pinnacle of 20 years of manufacturing. It consists of over 500 individual parts and, of course, does not only show the time but acoustically demonstrates time too. Acoustics is a hot topic for watches and cars at the moment. That is why I am not interested in a Grand Prix with electronic cars. A car race without noise is not, in my eyes, a car race. We have just spoken about the sound of cars. Watches also have a particular sound. What fascinates you most of all about watches? Is it the noise, the precision, the design or is there a particular element on a watch that you really admire? For me it is more the combination of design and technology, and most importantly the harmony between these elements. The technology of the clockworks and the

design must be in harmony, just like with a classic car. The motor and appearance of cars must after all fit. A small motor would be lost in too big a hood. However, with watches sometimes the inner workings fascinate me more than the design. I appreciate them because they call out to me and I can understand. Do you intentionally do this for Chopard? And if so, how? Yes, we have been doing this for the past 20 years with Classic Racing, and now with Porsche. A development that has really been made in the past 20 years. Or has there been any breaks? We focused on this angle for menâ€˜s watches and it has really paid off. Of course, there are other interesting types of sport. But car racing appeals to all generations. I noticed it with my son. He never had anything to do with classic cars, but the moment he got his driverâ€˜s licence and started driving, he was just as fascinated. He thought it was fantastic. I clearly remember a situation, when you were in Monaco and you stood before one of your wonderful old cars and in amazement said: now that is true craftsmanship. What aspects make you feel this sense of amazement? Whether it is a beautiful car or a watch,

the craftsmanship is always about the accumulation of details. There are many components that have to fit together and that make the full picture. That is what I like to admire â€“ whether it be in a watch or a car. What type of car are you currently restoring? It is a French brand, which has not existed for a long time: a Delahaye. The restoration will take approximately 2-3 years. The car was hidden under straw and dust, and had fallen apart. The leather seats had had it. The hood was devoured. It had started to rust and the motor had most likely not been used for 25 years, but it is a new project. Do your garages have special features or are they purely functional? The most important thing for a good garage is that it is not too damp and has a more or less stable temperature. For me that is more important than the garage

being visually attractive, although that would, of course, be ideal. But up until now I have only managed that in part. I heard that you have a large collection of timepieces? Does it include some that you wear? My watch collection actually exclusively consists of timepieces that cannot be worn. They are antique watches and mostly all pocket watches, but there are a few grandfather clocks and hourglasses too. It does not include any wristwatches. With as many valuable watches as you have, when do the children get a beautiful watch as a gift? For their first communion? Or when they turn 18? My son was not interested in watches when he turned 16. He told me that he did not want a watch and if he were to get one, he wanted a beautiful one, but that there was still time. So he got his first watch at around 17 years old. A sports watch from The Mille Miglia takes place just one week after the Historic Monaco Grand Prix. The thousandmile race through Italy is not only fascinating, but is also a true challenge for man and motor.

The perfect watch for sports enthusiasts: The Mille Miglia models are prized for their masterful mechanics and ergonomics.

Chopard - a Mille Miglia in stainless steel. Now he is completely obsessed by watches, but that only began a short while ago. The girls got their first watches for their confirmations. The current climate is not so easy for watch brands. What makes a watch brand sustainable nowadays? Do you have to be more specialised or branch out? One of the most important things remains the standard of quality, which really has to constantly and consistently be carried through the whole process - from the product to the service. Otherwise, it is important to have a clear-cut course, which continues for years not just to improve the brand etc. but having a long-term perspective. In our line of work, you have to plan and work with the long-term in mind, as some projects can last three to five years. It is the same as with viticulture. When you plant grapevines, you can only collect really significant harvests five years later. We look forward to the launch of your new watch in October that has been in the works for more than 5 years.

nders Thomas, the CEO of Nymphenburg, is definitely a man of style. His constant companion is Clara, a white female rhinoceros made of porcelain, who can even rival him in terms of notoriety. She has seen the biggest events and travels comfortably in a grippy brown leather suitcase, which also contains two Nymphenburg tea cups. „Clara and I are an unbeatable team. In Shanghai‘s Yu Yuan garden, with its famous jade stone, she

quickly became a confident photo motif.“ Back in 1741, the real live Clara travelled throughout Europe in much the same way as a rock star, with every country celebrating the exotic animal attraction. Anders Thomas continues Clara‘s jet set life in porcelain: she became a total favourite of Karl Lagerfeld and stole the show from numerous statesmen at the Munich Security Conference. No one is safe from Clara‘s charm.

Spaces that we ourselves bring to life become part of our personality. Barely a space represents this idea as much as the interior of our cars, and we all have a very different and self-evident way of interacting with them. We donâ€™t think about what we do in the car, because we automatically do what we always do. Indoor space becomes a stage for playing out life and, at the same time, the protagonist of the stage gives their own character. When it comes to quality, artists, managers, and other personalities open up their passenger door and share quirky stories and private insights. And what setting is better suited to this than the new BMW M760Li xDrive?

KEEP by Susanne Filter

calm The new luxury model comes with a Turbo V12 engine and 610 HP power under its nappa leathercovered seats.

Photography RAGNAR SCHMUCK

lowers are the favourite subject of photo artist Luzia Simons. The artist, who has chosen to live in Berlin, uses large format art and a special technique to position and include the painted beauties within her work. How does the exotic artist transport her works of art? They are carefully placed in the car by her Japanese flower seller, who always presents her with a particularly rare flower. â€žI love flowers, and I love their transience. Sometimes they inspire me to combine random combinations into an expressive arrangementâ€œ. Then it takes nothing more than SimonsÂ´ fertile imagination...

V olker de Boer, CEO of the IFM group, is a real bon vivant and loves his cigars. „No matter where I go, cigar, lighter and case are always with me. The passion for a good Cohiba brings him together with his business contacts: „Communication is important for the business and I like to share things.“ And best of all, to share a feeling for the beautiful things in life.

w hen native English person and milliner Fiona Bennett fills her car with mannequin heads for hats and well packaged hat creations, it can sometimes seem a bit bizarre: â€žIâ€˜m used to it and sometimes I even have extra-long feathers protruding from the sunroofâ€œ Choosing to live in Berlin, Fiona brought many elegant hats of impeccable craftsmanship into the then divided Germany and she still helps customers adorn their heads today with extravagant designs that are individually made and created from very special materials.

Shoes jimmy choo Bag louis vuitton

londra de la Parra is a woman who defies statement and who keeps time in every meaning of the phrase... While remaining every bit a woman. But things even happen to a star director like her â€“ the luxury handbag she placed on the passenger seat overturned and unintentionally divulged its private treasures. She even had her favourite high heels â€“ totally unsuited to driving â€“ positioned within reach next to her on the seat. She loves her shoes... And she loves avoiding accidents!

M attheo Thun, a renowned designer and architect from Italy, fundamentally likes being driven around. He enjoys discerning quality and good cushions so that he can work and relax at the same time. „Every day with at least one Tyrolean apple and my sketchbook: this is how I most like travelling”. Creative concepts were often born on long journeys. Matthäus Antonius Maria Graf von Thun und Hohenstein, to give him his full name, now lives in Milan, but likes to be in a car when he works creatively – he needs nothing else than a pen and paper.

ike all hoteliers, Thomas Kochs, General Manager of the Hotel Café Royal in London, doesn’t actually own his own umbrella. But when he visits one of the many London luxury hotels for a dinner or a business meeting, a chef immediately presents him with an own-branded umbrella as soon as it starts to rain. In London, this is not uncommon. The nice presents either disappear in the house somewhere or get stowed in the car boot – as the saying goes, „out of sight, out of mind“. And so Thomas Kochs always goes through more than a dozen umbrellas in the British capital city. And it is only when he needs to find room for a suitcase that he asks the question: Is that where my umbrella with the branding went to?

104

Cuba on the run

If salsa goes hand in hand with Cohiba, Hemingway with mojito, old road cruisers with socialism and Che Guevara with the Caribbean - then we can only be talking about Cuba. Since the tentative political opening up of the island nation in recent years, the country and its people are witnessing times of change. The unique charm of the sugar island remains, however, intact.

himmering heat creeps over the Malecón, while the waves seem to dance salsa in the Bay of Havana. On the famous Boulevard, the smell of salt and fuel mingles with the loud engine noises and the voices of people hustling by. Many of them are enjoying ice cream, which they carry around in small tubs. Ice cream is the ubiquitous favourite snack of Cubans, who previously could only dream of a Western standard of variety in terms of consumption. Neither smartphones nor newspaper stands, boutiques nor Coca Cola dominate the skyline of the capital. The search for functioning internet drives many a tourist or gold digger mad. And yet more and more visitors and investors from all over the world are lured to the country where the clocks tick more slowly. An island, where today an old world full of nostalgia and revolutionary romanticism coincides with the here and now more than ever. In particular, the visit of US President Barack Obama in March this year marked a historic turning point that refers to the political and economic perspective of the authoritarian regime of Raúl Castro.

by Matthias K. H. Arens and Antonia Ostersetzer

Buiks, Chevrolets, Cadillacs – Cuba is a true feast for the eyes for all lovers of American classics.

105

Like fallen beauties, the colonial buildings of Havanna rise towards the sky.

„A light that shines from within cannot be extinguished.“

Revolutionary: The new Audi Q2 drives along Cuba‘s streets like a vehicle from another time frame.

FOOD TIPPS A light that shines from within cannot be extinguished“, as they say here, and anyone who has ever nursed a Coco con Ron (a fresh coconut filled with rum) and allowed themselves to be carried away by the sound of guitars under a star-spangled Cuban sky knows what that means. Despite the historic revolutions to which they have had to adapt time and time again, the people here radiate optimism, cosmopolitanism and irrepressible joie de vivre. Havana is obviously in transition: Chic hotels lure customers with luxury and fusion cuisine and even Chanel presented this year‘s Cruise collection in the middle of the Paseo del Prado - and yet everything works exactly as you would expect after flicking through breathtaking picture books or watching nostalgic films like „Buena Vista Social Club“. Colourful rows of houses lining giant streets boasting palms. The partly collapsed foundation walls offer views of colonial architecture, electricity lines, romantic courtyards and the gritty daily life of Cubans. Teenagers focus on playing baseball in the side streets between closely spaced houses where freshly washed clothes are hung out to dry. Each displays a portrait of national hero Che Guevara or José Martí. Postcard perfect images wherever you look, yet it is primarily four-wheeled creations that capture the attention of the amazed visitors. For the Cubans, the old and mainly American road cruisers that dominate the road are a source of eternal irritation. Because where can one source unavailable or unaffordable spare parts for Cadillacs, Buicks, Pontiacs, Chevrolets, Moskwitschs or Ladas, which have clocked up half a century and can only conceal signs of aging with difficulty under layers of pastel-coloured paint. Anyone wishing to be chauffeured cheaply across the island in taxis, in other words, spectacular American cars, must get used to frequent stopovers for urgent repairs. Little represents the cliché of Cuba better than the cars people love to hate, which almost bring tears to the eyes of fans of classic cars. Preferably in candy colours, or racy red, they evoke the Hollywood films of the 1950s and a world in which headrests and roll bars were foreign words. Since the coming into effect of the trade embargo with the US in 1959, the export of cars to Cuba and thus also to a great extent the

No, Cuba is not considered a hotspot for foodies. The gastronomic culture of the country is still dominated by food stamps and commodity shortages. And yet, in addition to the world famous alcoholic favourites, a new, young culinary scene has established itself in and around Havana, which lends a contemporary, somewhat exquisite touch to local ingredients and traditional dishes. La Guarida Havana is teeming with private restaurants, so-called paladars. La Guarida is one of the best and most wellknown. Since parts of the film „Fresa y chocolate“ („Strawberry and chocolate“) was shot there, an early reservation is recommended. Whoever manages to get a table will enjoy excellent seafood and other typical local dishes. Casa Miglis Curious guests can expect a special type of fusion cuisine at Casa Miglis. Located in the centre of Havana, Casa Miglis serves Swedish-Cuban cuisine in an atmosphere that is reminiscent of the colonial era. Meatballs meet mojito! Agromercado If you want to know how Cubans survive without well-stocked supermarkets, have a look at one of the many markets. The Agromercado near the famous Malecón provides an impression of thed real Cuba, where food rationing, food stamps and a very limited selection of goods is still commonplace. The Agromercado nevertheless offers a wide range of fruits, vegetables and other typical foods. Just dive in and mingle with the friendly Cubans. Bodeguita del Medio No trip to Cuba is complete without a visit to the Bodeguita del Medio. Pablo Neruda and Hemingway whiled away hours of inspiration here. The legendary birthplace of the mojito is located in the old part of Havana and promises to this day hours of inspiration at the bar counter. 304 O´Reilly Anyone who has an appetite for South American cuisine will strike gold in O’Reilly 304. Although the Irish name suggests otherwise, grilled vegetables, cassava, plantains and other authentic Cuban dishes are on the menu in the trendy, two-storey restaurant Ceviche. Incidentally, the excellent cocktails are served here in old milk bottles. Delicioso! 107

turnover of vehicles came to a standstill. The renewed liberalisation is now the most recent reform of the country, even if foreign cars, priced at well over 200,000 Cuban dollars, will remain out of reach for the people of Cuba for the time being. A doctor here still earns about 25 dollars a month. And so tourists shall continue to enjoy the special cityscape of Cuba for a while longer, even if a little Peugeot, VW or Toyota flitting between disgruntled road cruisers becomes more and more common. Cars and Cuba are an inseparable pairing, so it is no surprise that Audi was the first major car maker to take a look at the Caribbean setting, of all places, for the presentation of the new Audi Q2. Quality, in the form of the SUV from Ingolstadt, explored the hot, though not quite uneven, asphalt and experienced what the island and the car had to offer away from the streets. It is just a short drive from the legendary Hotel Nacional to one of the most morbid and simultaneously most beautiful places in Havana. The central cemetary of Cementerio Cristóbal Colón (Christopher Columbus Cemetary) provides visitors with access to a peaceful image in white marble spread over 56 hectares. Magnificent mausoleums extend over gravestones adorned luxuriantly with plants, ornate family tombs, giant statues and grave chapels. With its own road network, which is over 20 kil-

Visitors love them, Cubans hate them: The famous candy coloured classic cars may be beautiful, but are outdated. For a new, comfortable car, some of these car owners would give the shirt off their back!

108

ometres long, and about one million graves, including those of many artists, politicians and revolutionaries, the picturesque cemetery holds the true soul of Cuba. Upon entry, visitors are regularly stunned into silence at the overwhelming sea of white marble among palm trees and deep blue skies. If there is no distraction at the side of the road, it’s worth taking a look at the brand new vehicle that attracts the attention of Cubans far more than any historical road cruiser. While Europeans stare in fascination at brightly coloured Chevrolet Bel Airs, Cubans stare at the new Audi Q2, the smallest SUV thus far. The Q2 makes a more than favourable impression on the streets of Havana, with the decision ultimately taken, and not without good reason, to launch it in revolutionary red. Completely unknown to the Cubans, Audi’s new model has its finger on the pulse and presents a compact, handy city car that must appear to drivers of technically obsolete vintage cars as if it is a hightech car from the future. Here, one is accustomed to unwieldy vehicles like the Bel Air, which, in order to save fuel, have been converted with simple Korean engines. Cubans are resourceful, so sometimes they are content with only two or three gears. It can be said that almost every Bel Air is unique. The Q2, however, impresses with its standard extras: an elevated seating position, generous ground clearance and the extensive fittings are testament to the luxurious comfort of the four-door model with the distinctive wedge-shaped headlights. Several assistance and connectivity systems are found for the first time in a vehicle of this class and, just like the interior design, play a significant role in In Cuban taxi scooters, you the superior class of its big brother, the Q7. A may feel a little less chic, but technical highlight is therefore the high-resoluyou will definitely travel much quicker through Havanna. tion multimedia monitor.

Compact town SUV: The new Audi Q2 radiates with the beams of the Cuban sun through the race. And in revolution red!

The retractable roof of the 4.19 metre long compact car underlines the sporty character of the new Q2. It can only partly demonstrate this on Cuban streets since the unstoppable speeding fun is curtailed by giant potholes in the road. However, the 1.4 litre four-cylinder turbo engine shows what it can do. With up to 190 hp, the allrounder attaches great importance to safety: adaptive cruise control, traffic jam assistant, lane keeping and traffic sign recognition are just a few of the new features. With its broad shoulders and angular features, the car from Ingolstadt is therefore extremely dynamic. But itâ€™s not easy to make a selection, because Audi offers the Q2 with a selection of six engines, three TFSI and TDI each. Incidentally: Even though, in fact, the purchase of a new car is either prohibited or unaffordable to all Cubans, President RaĂşl Castro fittingly drives an Audi Q8. 109

„You can‘t just plant tobacco, you have to marry it.“

fter the end of the tour on the white sandy beach of Playas del Este east of the city, it continues in the direction of Romeo and Juliet. But whoever expects a performance of the Shakespeare play on the stage of the Gran Teatro de La Habana, based on the names of the famous couple, is mistaken. Romeo y Julieta is one of the oldest and best-known brands of Cuban cigar. Founded in 1875 by the tobacco farmers Inocencia Alvarez and Manin Garcia, Romeo y Julietas only came to prominence through José “Pepin” Rodriguez Fernandez, who travelled around the whole world and made famous smokers like Winston Churchill - after whom a format was even named - lovers of the brand. The marketing genius laid the foundation for the global success that continues to this day. Besides rum, cigars are considered the most popular export item of the country, yet they are still produced

110

Cigars as a tradition: To this day, the famous Romeo y Julietas are made by hand.

through painstaking manual labour. If, as one of few foreigners, you visit the production facility in Havana, you will immediately come face to face with the hustle and bustle of the factory and the distinct aroma of tobacco leaves. The aromatic luxury cigars are mainly processed by experienced women, who roll the leaves and the contents into each other in such a way that the eye can hardly follow. They display the traditional handiwork proudly, even if this might shatter various peopleâ€™s comforting dreams: The women wear a heavy leather apron and roll the exclusive cigars firmly in their hands - not between their bare legs. And although this myth has now been destroyed, the magic of the sugar island is now more alive than ever.

The myth lives, but is not true: Cigars are rolled on thick leather aprons and not between womenâ€˜s naked thighs.

teardr p PHOTOGRAPHY BY Patrick Walter

Jewels: SWAROVSKI Dress: MARIA GRAZIA SEVERI

Blouse: MAX MARA Necklace: MIU MIU 3

115

Dress: OPENING CEREMONY | Jewels: VERSACE

Earrings: OSCAR DE LA RENTA | Top: VICTORIA BECKHAM | Ring: KAREN MILLEN

Photography: Patrick Walter | Styling: Cariin Cowalscii c/o blossommanagement.de | Hair & Make-up: Sacha Schuette | Model: Louisa @ Most Wanted Models

Blouse: HELMUT LANG Jewels: POMELLATO

118

Formula of the Sea

Like no other sailing regatta, the America’s Cup is considered to be the most prestigious and exciting race on the water. The expensive high-tech yachts, costing millions, take part in daring races in unpredictable conditions. One of the six major races took place this year for the first time in 96 years on the Hudson River in New York. It saw the first 24-year-old helmsman of Team Emirates New Zealand clinch a spectacular victory at the last minute. By Susanne Filter

Die neu aufgelegte Tischleuchte „Modell 548“ aus dem Jahr 1951 kombiniert ein schwenkbares Spotlight ausinAluminium einem High speed: an excitingmit race Diffusor aus weißem, in this marine Formulaazurblauem One the oder orangenem young crew from Methacrylat. New Zealand was able to win off New York.

o matter whether you were a spectator or a team member, anyone who experienced the preliminary round of the America’s Cups unfold before the Manhattan skyline, complete with glamorous presentation by Louis Vuitton, was able to experience the fascination of the oldest sailing regatta in the world. Until last year, Louis Vuitton had been the main sponsor of the preliminary rounds for 30 years, complete with their own trophy. They then decided it was time to go for the bigger picture. And so it was down to the French Haute Couture House to produce a new, handmade bespoke travel case for the coveted trophy. It is, after all, one of the oldest sporting trophies in the world. It all began back in 1851 with a sailing race to the Isle of Wight. The challenge cup was nicknamed the „bottomless ewer” by the single American entrant who won with his 30-metre schooner “America”, taking the winner’s cup back to the United States. Contrary to popular belief, the name „America’s Cup“ actually has nothing to do with the continent of America but refers to the first winner of the trophy. Henceforth, the Americans defended the America’s Cup for an incredible 132 years in 25 competitions held at irregular intervals. The exclusive organiser of the regatta at that time was, and still is today, the New York Yacht Club, who keeps a firm hold on the historic trophy. Australia, New Zealand and Switzerland have all won in the past, and craftsmen actually had to be hired because the famous “ewer“ had been so strongly screwed down in the display case in the traditional club. Even in the current competition, the U.S. Team of BMW Oracle are putting up a strong fight against their opponents from Team Emirates New Zealand. In 2013, the Americans showed how much desire to win they had in them, as they won the final of the 34th Cup in the 19th race against Team Emirates New Zealand, after they were previously behind 1:8. It took 11 wins in a row to close the gap over several days, but they did the impossible.

119

his had consequences for Emirates skipper and helmsman Dean Barker, who was replaced by the 24-year-old newcomer, Peter Burling. Did a new helmsman mean a new opportunity? Holding on to this hope, the Emirates started the 35th America´s Cup and were not disappointed. But talent and team spirit are not enough to win the Formula 1 of the sea. For years, crews have been fine-tuning tactics and their priceless, high-tech yachts. Of course, there is no longer any talk of classical nostalgic sailing yachts such as the „America“, which Louis Vuitton chartered to run parallel to the race so that guests could experience the feeling of speed on the Hudson River in a particularly nostalgic form. Long ago, racing boats were technical marvels in the same way as floating or flying racing cars. Highly tuned for a high performance, these sailing yachts worth $100 million are transformed after their victory or defeat into well - scrap. That’s because nobody except for the maximum 18-strong team are capable of taming these valuable speed yachts. Usually, there are racing enthusiasts and correspondingly high net-worth individuals who make their own dreams come true and take a strategic role in it. However, Emirates New Zealand is one of the few teams that does not have a private major sponsor. Together they decided that 24-year-old Peter Burling would be the helmsman to win the 35th American’s Cup. A real overachiever: Already at the age of 15, Burling had won the 420th World Championship, and at 21 he took silver at the 2012 Olympic Games. Since then, he’s been described in his homeland as the talent of the century. But in New York, the likeable New Zealander had a few nerves. While New York on the first race day was grey and misty with a crippling lull on the water, the world metropolis showed on the second day how things could change. Magnificent sunshine, a deep blue sky and a gust of wind at just the right time. Despite lagging behind, Burling succeeded in tactically making the most of the white clouds to make the AC45F catamaran go from nothing to high speed, perfect for sailing past the other boats and crossing the finish line just before the end of the race. With this move, Team Emirates New Zealand took a significant step closer to moving into the final race in Bermuda 2017.

120

After 90 years the Hudson River was again the setting for the spectacular America´s Cup.

At the edge of the New York race course, Quality met with the skipper and official spokesman of Team Emirates New Zealand, Glenn Ashby. The experienced professional is a total specialist in multihulls and is a core member of the team. What does the Australian think of the spectacular victory under Peter Burling? Mr. Ashby, as skipper, you have a lot of responsibility, for the team, the boat, and New Zealand. What pushes you the most to victory, from an emotional perspective? I think that most of all, it’s a passion for our sport that inspires me. And of course an absolute desire to win. To achieve very good results for both me and the team ultimately drives me to success. Do you sail very much following a plan, with a strong focus on technical perfection, or do you follow your intuition? You have to master all aspects of sailing to find the balance that you need to succeed. This includes intuition as well as technical details. The small pieces, when taken together, all lead to success. How do you and the team know where exactly the wind is or do you just happen to catch it? Like in any sport, things work better the more frequently you do them. We all have spent thousands of hours both training and racing. So the situation in the competition often feels more like that of a movie that you’ve seen many times before. Sometimes, decisions can then be made more easily, because we are no longer surprised by them. Peter Burling, at 24 years of age, is a very young helmsman whereas you are more experienced. Does experience in sailing being an advantage? The key is to find a balance between experience, race fitness and expertise. That is also the most difficult task in our sport. It‘s really difficult! Knowledge and ambition and the desire to keep learning will always give people an ultimate advantage, so when you actively pursue those goals you will be better than your opponent. Have you always been the skipper? No, I haven’t always been skipper, over the years I’ve also been crew and helmsman. Over time I‘ve sailed on many different boats. Being skipper, I hadn’t actually thought about until recent years to be honest. How do you see your role in this competition? More than ever, I’m the „old and wise” one. When I look back over my athletic past, I have to say that today there‘s nothing much in terms of sailing that makes me afraid. There is a big difference between „young and wild“ and „wise and wild“.

Would you describe the structure on the boat as team-oriented or rather more hierarchical? I’m actually convinced that the entire sport of sailing is completely oriented towards working in a team. Or at least I think so. How did your cooperation with the Team Emirates New Zealand come about? Naturally, there’s a process. I picked out the team and ultimately they also chose me. I‘ve seen the sensational last race in New York. First, your team seemed somehow stuck at the start and then, unexpectedly, the made it through in first place... These things are totally dependent upon where in the world you are. In crazy places, crazy things can happen over the course of the race and under certain circumstances. This race here in New York was never over until the moment we actually crossed the finish line. Was it tactics, luck or intuition? Or a bit of everything? I‘ll leave the public to form an opinion on that! When did you start to dream of having a sailing career? I can actually say that it‘s always really been my dream, right from the outset... On the scene, of course, everyone knows each other. Are you in contact with former skippers of Team New Zealand? Do you see them as rivals and are they friends? Yes, I often seen them, for example currently completing in the races of the America’s Cup. What conditions are ideal conditions for a victory? Any condition where you have an advantage over other contestants. Or if the field is very narrow, then you need „old school big breeze sailing.“

122

What does it mean for you, risking something? During a sailing race, risks mean doing things that your competitors cannot easily do: things that they feel uncomfortable doing or that they canâ€™t make happen. Life consists of risks and in sport, everything revolves around them. Being able to assess risks, makes the difference between winning and losing. Most of the other teams are sponsored by billionaires or big brands. At Emirates, who is responsible for making all of the decisions in consultation with the entire team? We really have a fantastic environment within the team. Decisions are made at various points along the way. We have departments within the overall team, and then they have to come together to determine the final and correct announcements to be made for one particular phase. I am very happy to be involved with such a damn good group of people, who all share the same passion as me. When your team won, what was your first thought? First of all, I was thinking that the return flight home would be much more comfortable. What does your daily routine look like during the race, and do your family come with you? I love competitions, but just as much, I miss my family. I never bring them with me, but I enjoy the brief time that I have with them at home in New Zealand. Iâ€˜ve been striving to find that magic balance of both things in my life. What does a normal day look like for A normal day in my life is the relaxing day at the beach with a beer in your hand.

you? opposite of having a

Quality is crossing their fingers for Team Emirates New Zealand in the 35th AmericaÂ´s Cup!

Glenn Ashby was thrilled. No wonder, he and his crew just managed to win in the last moment.

123

d n a s e t i h w Photog raph y Alex Sch ier

Top Marina Hoermanseder, Skirt Iren 1

e Luft, Necklace Swarovski

Jumpsuit M

ichalsk

cada Dress Es

, Glasses

ChloĂŠ

Dress and Harness Irene Luft

Fotograf: Alex Schier | Styling: Susanne Marx c/o Ballsaal | Hair & Make-Up: Oliver Szilagyi | Model: Ann Kuen c/o MIHA Modelmanagement

Dress Dimitri, Brace let Chanel

starstruck There are roads that are a dream to drive on, which belong to great moments... Roads, in fact, that were simply built for drivers. The design of their elegant lines that unforgettably shape and mould a landscape, the switchbacks that entice the eye to the heights of the pass. How many times is it the case that space and time form such an emotional continuum? by Matthias K. H. Arens and Alexandra Felts

130

hether it’s the south coast of Naples, the upper Corniche on the Côte d‘Azur, the Great Ocean Road in Australia or California’s Highway No. 1, they all serve as reminders that driving is also for leisure, an experience for all the senses. It was a hot day back then in 1888, but between the fuel stops at the pharmacy, dodging horse and carts, and horrified people gesturing that Berta Benz should be in the open patent motor car that belonged to her husband, once night fell over the rather modest dream-road between Mannheim and Pforzheim, she looked up into the sparkling starry sky and smiled, happy. It was their own personal great moment. Who would have ever thought that she would have just completed the first rally, that one day, the good star on all the streets would become one of the world‘s most admired brands? And as an aside, who would have thought that her husband had probably invented the first car in his workshop? Not only is the history of technology rich in brilliant ideas – it pulls contemporaries under their spell like the path of a comet, and then disappears into the black oblivion of the universe. Shooting stars that have their moment, lasting for as long as people can quickly wish for something. Well over a hundred innovative, turbulent, tragic years have gone by for Mercedes-Benz,

where they have stayed true to themselves and what they stand for. Instead of an inner compass, the company follows a somewhat identity-conferring inner beacon, which always points them in the right direction when it comes to the designs of their vehicles. Mercedes does not only build saloons that redefine the concept of luxury in their respective times, and long before the likes of Hamilton and Rosberg have flown around the race track as quickly as their silver arrows will allow. There are also excellent trucks and buses and a small, cheeky car named the Smart in their portfolio, which with a bit of skill would fit in the boot of a venerable Mercedes Pullman. You could ponder about all this while at the wheel of the new S-class convertible, with warm air from the Airscarf system fanning your neck at a push of a button to protect you from the night-time cold, the powerful V8 under the bonnet elegantly subdued but purring happily, and with one short look up from the coastal road, the sky seems to swell and move towards you, as it has since time immemorial over the Earth. Since 1971, there has finally a been large convertible from Mercedes-Benz, with the S-class begging to be allowed to go and play under the open sky. As it was 45 years ago, when the grandiose 280 SE took its place, there is still just the fabric roof separating you like a tailored coat from the open air spectacle. Today, the pure, elongated lines pose a lavish wealth of technology to which there may never be an end in itself. Everything is on board, including the latest assistance systems for the future of autonomous driving. But unlike the luxurious concept cars from Mercedes-Benz, this S class convertible actually calls for a human driver who wants to experience driving in its original form.

131

This level of pampering luxury is what you have come to expect from a Mercedes – even from a bold crossover between SUV and sports car like the GLC Coupé. Exquisite leatherwork, state-of-the-art infotainment and ambient lighting are an essential even of a sporty SUV.

It all starts with a designer’s daring sketch (right). Who could imagine that this powerful and low stance typical of a coupe would reveal itself to be an SUV ready to hit tough terrain? The most powerful version of the Mercedes-Benz GLC Coupe by AMG has a powerful V6 biturbo engine (367 HP) able to catapult this sleek off-road vehicle up to 100 km/h in less than five seconds.

132

Next to the majestic GL 500 4Matic an American fire truck doesn’t seem such a behemoth. The giant among the Mercedes SUVs measures over five meters and is the luxurious S-Class among the rough and ready vehicles. Its V8 biturbo powers up 435 HP with a cylinder displacement of 4,6 liters.

he designers at Mercedes have to master the balancing act between everyday life and holidays, between commercial vehicle and passenger car with a downright artistic-looking arc. In recent years, the brand has revolutionized the brand with the star under the supervision of Head of Design, Gorden Wagener. You can observe how bold strokes have been introduced, dignified silhouettes transformed into a sweeping body, something that should also attract new customers. The A-class is no longer on high legs, but became more furtive and despite being fitted with sporty AMG genes sank closer to the street. The former bread and butter car C-class has had a revamp from the design team in this latest generation, receiving a significant dose of sex appeal. As part of this classic combo, there is also a Shooting Brake with sloping coupé rear, and in the E-class, you can enjoy star gazing once more. It is the very image of an official car where elegant technology media meets the future of mobility. But what makes a Mercedes a Mercedes? Even designers struggle with the answer to this question. Some-

times there are nuances: knowing how to create a car from a colossus of ideas – as probably once Michelangelo did in transforming one-ton marble chunks into sculptures – a car whose mudguards are precisely so and cannot protrude a millimetre further over the curvature. Designers create emotion from formal language. They speak of sporty elegance or a mighty appearance, as a bonnet is no longer a usual idea. They cannot perhaps precisely name the phenomenon of their creativity, but they sense instinctively whether it all fits – the curvature of a dashboard, the choice of leather, the colours, the wood veneers. And this is old school craftsmanship. Today, they also need to be a guiding star in creating digital worlds such as the HMI - Human Machine Interface. How should controls, consoles, touch screens and menu navigation look despite an increasingly complex range of infotainment, but yet remain true to the philosophy of Mercedes-Benz? Parallel to the digital horizon, there have also been developments in recent years as a result of alternate drives, sometimes offering even downright confusing alternatives: classic with petrol or perhaps a quiet, economical diesel? Would you prefer a purely electric battery or a hybrid? Hydrogen? Natural gas? As if that were not enough along with increasingly stringent emissions standards, there is also a debate over the future capability of the car. Will we one day share cars with each other and renounce our once precious possession for the benefit of assorted mobility? All this is of course very serious, and you can almost see the furrowed brows in these designs.

133

ut almost as much, we want to be reminded that the acquisition of the oft-sober reality is also a revival of imagination and joy for unreasonable stargazers, as Mercedes-Benz itself decreed this year, celebrating under the open sky. It is rare that so many open-air models début in a year. On the upward scale of luxurious enjoyment there is the S-class convertible, and among other things, there is the S 500 and the more athletic AMG S 63 4Matic option. Although the big Roadster SL is one of the more familiar constellations in the Mercedes cosmos, it has also been tapered and streamlined this year, and equipped with the inspiring folding technique found on vario roofs. With it, you get a double supercharged 3.0 litre V6 engine which makes your heart race with 367 HP, and also the AMG SL 65 (630 HP) that marries impressive performance and prestige. With so much joie de vivre, the creators of the C-class also wanted to make this apparent and so created a model that follows the compact sinewy lines of the coupé and unashamedly roars with youth... there just happens to be fabric for your roof. Like every Mercedes, this candid Cclass offers a driving mode for everybody and every emotion, from introspective to demanding. As if there were no tomorrow with an autumnal gloomy, overcast sky, the C-class con-

Their understatement and elongated elegance filled everyone with longing and awe. Finally, after 45 years Mercedes-Benz has again presented an S-Class convertible, ready to take its place as an open-air alternative to the luxury limousines.

134

vertible has been sent to the AMG performance centre and – just because they can – this young wild creation has been given 510 HP and a massive V8 engine, making it a supernova in any race. Oh yes, from the previous-generation E-class there is also still a very attractive four-seater convertible, and the well-known SLK as the Benjamin of the Roadster family has renamed the SLC and given a refreshingly different image. For those that really can’t decide, they are now experiencing the term “starstruck” in the most accurate meaning of the word - ensnared by a star! The artist and rebel Cavaradossi sang „E lucevan le stelle“. He would have been only too happy to have had his Tosca from the opera of the same name under the shining stars of the sky. But that was not to be, eventually a tenor sings one of the greatest arias of all time, and this never ends well. And as Calaf in the opera ‘Turandot’ belts out „Nessun dorma” alone with just the stars for company on that fateful night, nobody sleeps, not least because of the fateful and eventful interplay of the twinkling lights in the velvety-dark night. The crafty Calaf nevertheless gets his happy ending with his murderous Princess... Perhaps he might have abducted her, driving a Mercedes convertible through the ancient Chinese night. Of course, at that time, the star brand hadn’t been introduced to the Asian market, because otherwise a new long-version E-Class saloon, whose popularity far exceeds the domain of the Chinese court, could have been conceivable for making a grand exit with his future wife. With a wheelbase extended by 140 millimetres to over three metres, and therefore a vision in about five metres of majestic length, there

In German, Mercedes has always been called the guiding â€žgood starâ€œ on all roads, and the emblematic star was the most popular spare part (it was always stolen).

are likely increasing numbers of businessmen taking their Dragon ladies for a ride in one since the Beijing motor show this year. While the ambient lighting with its 64 individual moods would have perhaps driven the capricious Turandot to distraction, the larger rear legroom would have left space enough for the folds of his lush silk robe. As the ancestral father of the star on all streets, Gottlieb Daimler had no idea about these remarkable developments. The three points of the star, which he decided should be the company logo, should not represent a kind of focus for perfecting the firmament for the young brand, but its dominance on land, water and in the air. It would take a long time before its descendants captured the two other elements for themselves. In a form of style transfer, the designers at Mercedes-Benz have launched pure S-Class style with the 14-meter long Arrow460 Granturismo. With its combination of innovative interior design, touch of classic teak wood and silhouette of a motor yacht boldly riding the waves, it represents the deep blue dream routes off the coast. And if in a kind of time travel Mr Daimler looked upwards, he would have discovered a starship moulded by the Mercedes star in the form of the Mercedes-Benz style Airbus EC145 helicopter. Night and day: a convertible is always a stunning presence. With a number of models Mercedes-Benz is going back to the roots and celebrating the top-down driving experience. The SL muscular roadster (above) has been refreshed; and the sublime S-Class is joined by an equally brilliant S-Class convertible. Luxuriously outfitted, equipped with advanced technology at oneâ€™s fingertips and the powerful humming of engines with a capacity of over 600 HP.

135

Step out of your car and into a starship and feel right at home. Mercedes-Benz Style and Airbus partnered to create this EC 145 helicopter with a signature leather interior from Mercedes.

ver since humans first stood erect in the African savannah and looked upwards, they discovered a difficult to interpret fascination with the shining stars nestling in the night sky. Later stargazers, who once advised the Kings and followed the star of Bethlehem, are called astrologers today and continue to strive for the scientific recognition of their discipline – unlike the cosmologists, who observed the universe from the time of ancient Greece to Kepler, Newton and Einstein, coaxing the secret of laws from its severe beauty. The stars are so distant and yet it is possibly the very tantalising mega distance of the light years that helps these twinkling lights serve as role models for the best people on earth. The small breviary of the French tyre manufacturer Michelin was originally intended as an aid for motorists if they broke down. But with the popularity of the car, so the desire to travel also increased. The 1920s saw the début of the little red Bible of mobile gourmets, equipped with the stars that could make a bistro in the country shine as brightly as a restaurant in the heart of Paris. This was immediately understood in the hotel business, which, with the help of stars, actually provides a very precise statement about the full-service of the establishment. And they are equally used to illustrate the quality of educational services, the luminosity of film

136

actors or serve as a way of counting the number of football championships that have been won and much more besides. It seems as if the harmony of the stars is so far, although in just a few seconds, the convertible roof offers a view of the celestial panorama both day and night. This family of car models, designed for sheer enjoyment in a single moment, have found their antipodes in the SUVs – connoisseurs of any terrain, any weather, Mercedes-Benz is on to a winner created from the DNA of the indestructible original G-class model. The large off-roaders have led the bestseller list in previous years, along with other brands. However, Mercedes-Benz has finished models such as the little GLA, the GLC, GLE and GLS, so the 4WD in XL format has become the darling of the city lifestyle. Robust but sophisticated 4Matic-Technology, paired with sporty luxury and all modern amenities, together with the knowledge you’re driving a genuine Mercedes. Can you actually elicit a new tone in this ubiquitous area? Years ago, the CLS saloon débuted as

The expertise of Mercedes designers reaches far beyond cars and is much sought after by other companies looking for luxury know-how. The passenger space inside of the Airbus chopper is reminiscent of the comfortable and functional leather seating that are a hallmark of the carmaker.

the first four-door car, the end of which swung backwards like an elegant coupé. Between the glamour of the convertibles, Mercedes has highlighted the GLC coupé in the variety of models from this year. Years ago there was talk of attempting the impossible, of trying to square the circle: wanting to convincingly give the beefy SUV shape the racy feel of a sports car with a flat running roof line. In the drive mix are petrol, diesel, and a plug-in hybrid with a power spectrum of 170 HP up to 320 HP, and of course a top model by AMG with 367 HP – the GLC 43. Enveloped by this innovative design, the SUV coupé, in addition to the nine-speed transmission, also offers the latest safety packages such as the traffic sign assistant, and a chassis that is suitable for a sporty version at four centimetres lower than its sister model, the GLC. And to stay in the picture, a car in the form of the high-built SUV that carries into the world a star on its radiator, is closer to the stars than the sports car that greedily claws at the curves of the road. Open the roof window, but the stars are also shining inside in the cockpit. By day, they are hardly seen in the light of the sun. But no matter whether it’s one roof that can be folded like a great piece of theatre, or a piece of the sky carved out in the light of the sun through the window, the finest stardust from the galaxy floats down to earth. As the great physicist Carl Sagan once poetically and accurately stated: everything was created out of it, and it forms the core of our being in us.

The new 14 meter long Arrow460 Granturismo is an old dream come true: to be dominant on the road, the sky and finally on water, embodied by the legendary three-legged star. The sleek motor yacht embodies the signature lines of a coupe and makes waves powered by 960 HP accelerating up to 40 knots.

manufacturer And adresseS Quality No. 54/55 – July to Sep. 2016

3.1 PHILLIPP LIM www.31philliplim.com

CACHAREL www.cacharel.com

GANNI www.ganni.com

LUCAS HUGH www.lucashugh.com

NDV PROJECT www.ndvproject.it

SENNHEISER www.sennheiser.com

ABOU www.abou-fashion.com

CADENZZA www.cadenzza.de

GIVENCHY www.givenchy.com

LUDWIG REITER www.ludwig-reiter.com

NIKOLA MOTOR www.nikolamotor.com

S. FISCHER VERLAG www.fischerverlage.de

ACNE www.acnestudios.com

CALVIN KLEIN www.calvinklein.com

GLAS ITALIA www.glasitalia.com

MAGIC CARPET www.magiccarpetym.com

NLXL www.nlxl.com

SOULBOTTLES www.soulbottles.de

AGNONA www.agnona.com

CAMPANA www.campanas.com.br

GLOBUS www.globusfashion.com

MALIPARMI www.maliparmi.com

OMOROVICZA www.omorovicza.com

STELLA JEAN www.stellajean.it

AIGNER www.aignermunich.de

CARTIER www.cartier.de

G-SHOCK www.g-shock.eu

MANDARIN ORIENTAL www.mandarinoriental.de

OPENING CEREMONY www.openingceremony.com

STONE ISLAND www.stoneisland.com

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN www.alexandermcqueen.com

CHAFOR www.chafor.de

HACKETT www.hackett.com

MANOLO BLAHNIK www.manoloblahnik.com

OSCAR DE LA RENTA www.oscardelarenta.com

STUDIO AMEBE www.studioamebe.com

ALMLIEBE www.almliebe.com

CHANEL www.chanel.com

HAPPY LOLA www.lola-shop.de

MARC JACOBS www.marcjacobs.com

PANERAI www.panerai.com

STUDIO E.O. www.studioeo.se

AMERICAN VINTAGE www.americanvintage-store.com

CHLOÉ www.chloe.com

Haruka Misawa misawa.ndc.co.jp

MARIA GRAZIA SEVERI www.mariagraziaseveri.com

PAUL & JOE www.paulandjoe.com

SUNSTOFEY www.sunstofey.de

ANDRES SARDA www.andressarda.com

CHOPARD www.chopard.de

HATJE CANTZ VERLAG www.hatjecantz.de

MARIO BADESCU www.mariobadescu.com

PAUL SMITH www.paulsmith.co.uk

SWAROVSKI www.swarovski.com

AND OTHER STORIES www.stories.com

CONSTANCE HOTELS www.constancehotels.com

HELMUT LANG www.helmutlang.com

MARINA HOERMANSEDER www.marinahoermanseder.com

PAWAKA www.pawaka.com

TASCHEN VERLAG www.taschen.com

DAVIDOFF www.davidoff.com

HERCULES www.hercules-bikes.de

MARNI www.marni.com

PIAGET www.piaget.de

TED BAKER www.tedbaker.com

DELIUS KLASING VERLAG www.delius-klasing.de

HERMÈS www.hermes.com

MARTONE CYCLING www.martonecycling.com

PLYMOUTH GIN www.plymouthgin.com

TIFFANY www.tiffany.de

DIMITRI www.bydimitri.com

HOREX www.horex.com

MASERATI www.maserati.de

PERNOD RICARD www.pernodricard.dE

TOD´S www.tods.com

DIESEL www.diesel.com

HORIZN STUDIOS www.horizn-studios.com

MAX MARA www.maxmara.com

POMELLATO www.pomellato.com

TOM FORD www.tomford.com

DIOR www.dior.com

HORVATH www.horvath.ch

MERCEDES BENZ www.mercedes-benz.de

PORSCHE DESIGN www.porsche-design.com

TORY BURCH www.toryburch.de

DOLCE & GABBANA www.dolcegabbana.com

HUGO BOSS www.hugoboss.com

MICHAEL KORS www.michaelkors.com

PRADA www.prada.com

TOYOTA www.toyota.de

BEHANCE www.behance.net

DRIES VAN NOTEN www.driesvannoten.be

INA BEISSNER www.inabeissner.com

MICHALSKY www.michalsky.com

PRESTEL VERLAG www.randomhouse.de

TURNOVER www.turnover.com

BELSAZAR www.belsazar-vermouth.de

DRYKORN www.drykorn.com

IRENE LUFT www.ireneluft.com

MINI www.mini.de

PRINCESS YACHTS www.princessyachts.com

VALMONT www.boutiquevalmont.com

BELSTAFF www.belstaff.de

E.A. SEAWEAR www.easeawear.bigcartel.com

JAMES READ www.jamesreadtan.com

MISSHA www.missha.net

RAFFLES HOTELS www.raffles.com

VANMOOF www.vanmoof.com

BENTLEY www.bentleymotors.com

ECCE CYCLES www.ecce-cycles.com

JANE KOENIG www.janekoenig.de

MIU MIU www.miumiu.com

RED VALENTINO www.redvalentino.com

VELOHUB www.blinkers.io

BEAUTIFUL STORIES www.beautifulstoriesclothes.com

EDITION LAMMERHUBER www.edition.lammerhuber.at

JAN KATH www.jan-kath.de

MONKI www.monki.com

RETROUVÉ retrouve.com

VERSACE www.versace.com

BLACK TAP www.blacktapnyc.com

ELIE SAAB www.eliesaab.com

JIL SANDER www.jilsander.com

MONREAL LONDON www.monreallondon.com

REUBEN REUEL NYC www.demestiksnewyork.com

VICTORIA BECKHAM www.victoriabeckham.com

BMW www.bmw.de

EMILIO PUCCI www.emiliopucci.com

JIMMY CHOO www.jimmychoo.com

MONTBLANC www.montblanc.com

RIMOWA www.rimowa.com

VW www.volkswagen.de

BOTTEGA VENETA www.bottegaveneta.com

EMPORIO ARMANI www.armani.com

KAREN MILLEN www.karenmillen.com

MONTGOMERY www.originalmontgomery.com

RITZ CARLTON www.ritzcarlton.com

WERKBUNDSTADT BERLIN www.werkbundstadt.berlin

BRIONI www.brioni.com

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA www.zegna.com

KOMONO www.komono.com

MOSCHINO www.moschino.com

ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com

WHAT FOR www.whatfor.com

BRUNELLO CUCCINELLI www.brunellocucinelli.com

ESCADA www.escada.com

LEXUS www.lexus.de

MOTO PARILLA www.motoparilla.it

RODIAL www.rodial.co.uk

WILLIAM FAN www.williamfan.com

BUDDHA TO BUDDHA www.buddhatobuddha.com

ESSENTIEL ANTWERP www.essentiel-antwerp.com

LIU JO www.liujo.com

MYKITA www.mykita.com

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com

WONHUNDRED www.wonhundred.com

BURBERRY www.burberry.com

ETRO www.etro.com

LIVE THE PROCESS www.livetheprocess.com

NACH BIJOU www.nachbijoux.com

SAMSUNG www.samsung.com

BY MALENE BIRGER www.bymalenebirger.com

FENDI www.fendi.com

LOUIS VUITTON www.louisvuitton.com

NARS www.narscosmetics.com

SANTONI www.santonishoes.com

BY TERRY www.byterry.com

FREIXENET www.freixenet.de

LOVE STORIES INTIMATES www.lovestoriesintimates.com

NEWBLACK www.newblack.it

SELF PORTRAIT www.self-portrait-studio.com

ANNIE P www.anniep.it

ASOS www.asos.de AUDI www.audi.de BACON www.restaurantdebacon.com BALLY www.bally.com

138

Premium subscription Secure a sumptuous slice of quality of life with a two-year subscription and receive an exclusive gift of your choice. Send us the filled-out coupon below or simply order online: www.quality-magazine.ch

Trendy summer hat with graphic black and white pattern made of Japanese paper straw . Can be flexible fold without losing the shape. Size 75

rt und Lebensa Leute, Looks

Classic half finger driving gloves made of extra soft Peccary leather, handsewn with a sporty cut out and covered pushbutton. Size: 6,5, 7 or 7,5 Additional charge: 30 euros

Young Hippie Flowers. Fresh floral pattern in patchwork look entchanted by fresh colors and light silk chiffon quality.

54/55 2016

BANKSY

Phantom Arts

BALI

8 × QUALITY for 40 €

CARTIER

Fifth Avenue

ZAHA HADID To be continued

Secure your subscription at a special price Yes, I would like to subscribe to You will receive 8 issues of for the duration of one year free delivery and will pay 40 euros (incl. VAT). The price per issue is thus 5 euros instead of the regular price of 6,8o euros (incl. VAT). ............................................................................................................................................... Date, Signature

Yes, I would like the premium subscription. You will receive 16 issues of for the duration of two years free delivery and will pay 80 euros (incl. VAT). The price per issue is thus 5 euros instead of the regular price of 6,8o euros (incl. VAT). Additional you will receive a premium of your choice:

Von Reis & Dämon

INVOICE ADRESS

12,80 schweiz sFr € 6,80 deutschLand € 7,50 Österreich beneLuX € 7,50

h quality-magazine.c

ABOUT

DELIVERY ADRESS (if differing)

.................................................................................. Name, First name

................................................................................. Name, First name

.................................................................................. Street, house number

................................................................................. Street, house number

.................................................................................. Postal Code, City

................................................................................. Postal Code, City

.............................................................................................................................................................................. Phone and e-mail adress

I pay by ............................................................................................................................................... PayPal

Date, Signature

Credit card (VISA, Amex, Diners, Mastercard)

Invoice

.......................................................................... e-Mail-Adresse

Premium 1

Premium 2

Premium 3

....................................................................................................................................................................... Credit card type (VISA, Amex, Diners, Mastercard) .................................................................................. Credit card number

................................................................................. Valid until

The order can be cancelled within 14 days in writing at: Quality/Objexts, Subscriber Service, Nithackstrasse 7, D-Berlin oder by fax (+49 30 548107-10). To meet the revocation deadline the timely sending is sufficient. The subscription applies to a) 8 issues of Quality b) 16 issues of Quality c) 4 issues of Objexts and is not automatically renewed.

Just fill out the coupon and send it to Quality Aboservice, Nithackstr. 7, D-10585 Berlin or online at www.quality-magazine.ch (includes order of single issue). Should you have further queries, please call us at +49 30 548107-01 or by email abo@quality-magazine.ch

139

Quality Magazine 54/55 About Warp English