I Love Curry

Anjum Anand

Quadrille Publishing Ltd, Alhambra House 27-31 Charing Cross Road, London WC2H OLS www.quadrille.co.uk

GREAT CURRIES TO COOK AT HOME

There’s no doubt that curries are adored the world over – for their welcome shot of spiciness, their one-pot easiness and the conviviality of enjoying them with friends. But what actually is a curry? The answer is that it is a dish cooked in a sauce flavoured with a harmonious blend of spices where no one taste will take centre stage. Chicken curry is thus different from yogurt chicken, cumin chicken or black pepper chicken, where one flavour dominates. Depending on which region of India it comes from, that chicken curry will also be imbued with a different blend of flavours. Tomatoes, dairy products and garam masala creep into a northern curry, while coconut, tamarind and mustard seeds prevail in the south.

As Anjum proclaims on the cover, she loves curry – and this book contains a spicy mix of restaurant classics, regional dishes and her own delicious original creations – 50 main dishes that burst with the flavours of India. There are curries to warm you in winter and curries to cool you down in summer. Some are hot and others are mild, though all can be adjusted to taste. Some are simplicity itself to make, while others recreate restaurant favourites with all the same layers of flavours. 25 accompaniments include breads and rice, chutneys and raitas, quick vegetable and salad side dishes and, as a prelude, delicious bites to start your meal. I LOVE CURRY is the essential book for all lovers of Indian food, whether confident cooks or novice enthusiasts.

Anjum Anand was the presenter of two successful series of BBC2’s Indian Food Made Easy. Her book of the same name, published to accompany the TV series, was among the top 10 best selling cook books of 2007. Her followup, Anjum’s New Indian, has so far sold more than 100,000 copies. And her next, Eat Right for your Body Type, is one of the bestselling health titles of 2010. £17.99 Hardback ISBN 987 1 84400 889 6 176pp 253 x 201mm 40,000 words including 75 recipes 100 colour photographs Publication October 2010

There’s no doubt that curries are adored the world over – for their welcome shot of spiciness, their one-pot easiness and the conviviality of enjoying them with friends. But what actually is a curry? The answer is that it is a dish cooked in a sauce flavoured with a harmonious blend of spices where no one taste will take centre stage. Chicken curry is thus different from yogurt chicken, cumin chicken or black pepper chicken, where one flavour dominates. Depending on which region of India it comes from, that chicken curry will also be imbued with a different blend of flavours. Tomatoes, dairy products and garam masala creep into a northern curry, while coconut, tamarind and mustard seeds prevail in the south.

As Anjum proclaims on the cover, she loves curry – and this book contains a spicy mix of restaurant classics, regional dishes and her own delicious original creations – 50 main dishes that burst with the flavours of India. There are curries to warm you in winter and curries to cool you down in summer. Some are hot and others are mild, though all can be adjusted to taste. Some are simplicity itself to make, while others recreate restaurant favourites with all the same layers of flavours. 25 accompaniments include breads and rice, chutneys and raitas, quick vegetable and salad side dishes and, as a prelude, delicious bites to start your meal. I LOVE CURRY is the essential book for all lovers of Indian food, whether confident cooks or novice enthusiasts.

Anjum Anand was the presenter of two successful series of BBC2’s Indian Food Made Easy. Her book of the same name, published to accompany the TV series, was among the top 10 best selling cook books of 2007. Her followup, Anjum’s New Indian, has so far sold more than 100,000 copies. And her next, Eat Right for your Body Type, is one of the bestselling health titles of 2010. £17.99 Hardback ISBN 987 1 84400 889 6 176pp 253 x 201mm 40,000 words including 75 recipes 100 colour photographs Publication October 2010

Introduction 8 Store cupboard stand-bys 9 Curry spices and flavourings 101 10 Serving an Indian meal 12

Bites to start 14 THE CURRIES

Fish and seafood 32 Poultry and game 50 Meat 68 Vegetables 86 ACCOMPANIMENTS

Vegetable and salad side dishes 104 Breads and rice 134 Chutneys, pickles, raitas and drinks 152 Glossary 172 Index 174 Acknowledgements 176

herby chicken curry There are many versions of cooking meats with green herbs in India; this is from the north. Other cooks would put in tomatoes and, in the south, they would add fresh coconut or coconut milk. You can change this recipe to reflect your food mood. I find I have started thinking about dishes as being masculine or feminine in nature. This dish has a soft edge, with a perfume of fresh herbs and delicacy of flavour I feel is rounded and feminine. Men: don’t be put off! This is delicious when you want a light curry. Serve with Indian breads or rice. for the chicken curry

for the spice paste

5 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, sliced 1 bay leaf 700g small chicken, skinned and jointed 1 good tsp garam masala 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tbsp sour cream

100g fresh coriander leaves and stems, washed 1–2 green chillies, stalk removed 40g mint leaves, washed 5 large garlic cloves, peeled 2cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled or scrubbed 2 tsp ground coriander 3 tbsp cashew nuts 3 tbsp lemon juice 1 good tsp salt, or to taste

Heat 4 tbsp of the oil in a large, non-stick saucepan. Add the onion and cook until well browned. Place all the ingredients for the spice paste into a blender, add the onions and their oil and blend to a fine paste. Heat the remaining oil in the pan, add the bay and, after five seconds, the spice paste and chicken.

Stir over a moderate flame for eight to 10 minutes, making sure the paste does not stick to the pan. If it does, add a splash of hot water from the kettle.

Now add water to half-cover the chicken. Bring to a boil, cover and cook over low heat for 20–25 minutes, until the chicken is ready. There should be plenty of gorgeous creamy gravy. If it seems watery, uncover and cook off the extra liquid over a high heat, stirring often. Mix in the garam masala, ground cumin and sour cream. Taste; this is when you can balance the dish to perfection by adjusting the salt, lemon juice, garam masala or even more cream, as you prefer. Eat with simple chapatis or layered flat breads (parathas).

serves 4-6

54

poultry and game

herby chicken curry There are many versions of cooking meats with green herbs in India; this is from the north. Other cooks would put in tomatoes and, in the south, they would add fresh coconut or coconut milk. You can change this recipe to reflect your food mood. I find I have started thinking about dishes as being masculine or feminine in nature. This dish has a soft edge, with a perfume of fresh herbs and delicacy of flavour I feel is rounded and feminine. Men: don’t be put off! This is delicious when you want a light curry. Serve with Indian breads or rice. for the chicken curry

for the spice paste

5 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, sliced 1 bay leaf 700g small chicken, skinned and jointed 1 good tsp garam masala 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tbsp sour cream

100g fresh coriander leaves and stems, washed 1–2 green chillies, stalk removed 40g mint leaves, washed 5 large garlic cloves, peeled 2cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled or scrubbed 2 tsp ground coriander 3 tbsp cashew nuts 3 tbsp lemon juice 1 good tsp salt, or to taste

Heat 4 tbsp of the oil in a large, non-stick saucepan. Add the onion and cook until well browned. Place all the ingredients for the spice paste into a blender, add the onions and their oil and blend to a fine paste. Heat the remaining oil in the pan, add the bay and, after five seconds, the spice paste and chicken.

Stir over a moderate flame for eight to 10 minutes, making sure the paste does not stick to the pan. If it does, add a splash of hot water from the kettle.

Now add water to half-cover the chicken. Bring to a boil, cover and cook over low heat for 20–25 minutes, until the chicken is ready. There should be plenty of gorgeous creamy gravy. If it seems watery, uncover and cook off the extra liquid over a high heat, stirring often. Mix in the garam masala, ground cumin and sour cream. Taste; this is when you can balance the dish to perfection by adjusting the salt, lemon juice, garam masala or even more cream, as you prefer. Eat with simple chapatis or layered flat breads (parathas).

serves 4-6

54

poultry and game

lamb do piaza (lamb with onions) 4–5 tbsp vegetable oil (use 5 tbsp if the lamb is quite lean) 3 green cardamom pods 2.5cm cinnamon stick 4 cloves 8 black peppercorns 2 smallish onions, 1½ chopped and ½ sliced 250g tomatoes (2 medium-large), quartered 10g ginger, peeled 5 large garlic cloves, peeled ½ tsp turmeric

1 tsp ground cumin 1½ tsp ground coriander 1 tsp garam masala ¼-½ tsp red chilli powder, or to taste (add some paprika for colour if you don’t use much) salt, to taste 4 tbsp Greek yogurt 500g leg of lamb, cubed lemon juice, to taste good handful of chopped coriander leaves

Heat the oil in a medium non-stick saucepan. Add the whole spices and, once they have sizzled a bit, add the chopped onions and cook until browned; the darker the onion, the deeper the flavour.

Meanwhile, make a fine paste of the tomatoes, ginger and garlic with a hand blender. Stir in the powdered spices, salt and yogurt until smooth.

Add the lamb and brown it well in the pan. Add the paste, stir well and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and cook for 45–50 minutes, or until the lamb is tender. Add the sliced onions 30 minutes into cooking and give the pot a stir every 10–15 minutes, making sure it does not dry out. Ideally, the dish should cook in its own sauce but, if necessary, add a splash of water.

When the lamb is tender, the sauce should have reduced to a creamy consistency with a tangle of sweet, sliced onions. If it is too dry, add a splash of water. Taste and add more salt, chilli powder or lemon juice, as you prefer, until it is perfect for you. Stir in the coriander and serve with parathas, chapatis or naan.

serves 4-6

Lamb Do Piaza is a muchloved British dish but is also a favourite in India. It is, at heart, a richly flavoured mutton or goat curry with double the amount of onions normally used. This is a great dish to prepare a day in advance, as the flavours continue to soften and marry to a beautiful tangle of rich and complex tastes. If you can add some lamb bones (ask your butcher), you’ll get an added depth of flavour. For a wow factor if you are serving this dish to friends, deep-fry some more finely sliced onions until crispy and pile a dramatic mound of them on top.

meat

77

lamb do piaza (lamb with onions) 4–5 tbsp vegetable oil (use 5 tbsp if the lamb is quite lean) 3 green cardamom pods 2.5cm cinnamon stick 4 cloves 8 black peppercorns 2 smallish onions, 1½ chopped and ½ sliced 250g tomatoes (2 medium-large), quartered 10g ginger, peeled 5 large garlic cloves, peeled ½ tsp turmeric

1 tsp ground cumin 1½ tsp ground coriander 1 tsp garam masala ¼-½ tsp red chilli powder, or to taste (add some paprika for colour if you don’t use much) salt, to taste 4 tbsp Greek yogurt 500g leg of lamb, cubed lemon juice, to taste good handful of chopped coriander leaves

Heat the oil in a medium non-stick saucepan. Add the whole spices and, once they have sizzled a bit, add the chopped onions and cook until browned; the darker the onion, the deeper the flavour.

Meanwhile, make a fine paste of the tomatoes, ginger and garlic with a hand blender. Stir in the powdered spices, salt and yogurt until smooth.

Add the lamb and brown it well in the pan. Add the paste, stir well and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and cook for 45–50 minutes, or until the lamb is tender. Add the sliced onions 30 minutes into cooking and give the pot a stir every 10–15 minutes, making sure it does not dry out. Ideally, the dish should cook in its own sauce but, if necessary, add a splash of water.

When the lamb is tender, the sauce should have reduced to a creamy consistency with a tangle of sweet, sliced onions. If it is too dry, add a splash of water. Taste and add more salt, chilli powder or lemon juice, as you prefer, until it is perfect for you. Stir in the coriander and serve with parathas, chapatis or naan.

serves 4-6

Lamb Do Piaza is a muchloved British dish but is also a favourite in India. It is, at heart, a richly flavoured mutton or goat curry with double the amount of onions normally used. This is a great dish to prepare a day in advance, as the flavours continue to soften and marry to a beautiful tangle of rich and complex tastes. If you can add some lamb bones (ask your butcher), you’ll get an added depth of flavour. For a wow factor if you are serving this dish to friends, deep-fry some more finely sliced onions until crispy and pile a dramatic mound of them on top.

meat

77

fluffy spinach koftas in creamy tomato curry for the curry 2 large tomatoes, quartered and deseeded 3 garlic cloves, peeled 10g ginger, peeled weight 5 tbsp vegetable oil, plus more to deep-fry 1 onion, sliced 40g cashew nuts ½ tsp turmeric ¼-½ tsp chilli powder, or ½ tsp paprika 1¼ tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp garam masala salt, to taste 2–3 tbsp double cream, or a knob of butter (optional)

for the koftas 200g spinach, I use whole leaf spinach (not baby leaf) for more flavour, well washed 2 level tbsp cornflour 200g ricotta cheese

Blend together the tomatoes, garlic and ginger to a fine paste; I use a stick blender. Heat the oil in a large non-stick saucepan. Add the onion and cook until lightly browned. Add the tomato paste, cashew nuts, spices and salt.

Cook over a moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the paste releases oil, around 15 minutes. Blend until smooth with a stick blender, adding a little water, if necessary. Add 500ml water, bring to a boil and simmer until the curry is the consistency of single cream, around eight to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the dumplings. Wilt the spinach in a pan with a little water and a good pinch of salt. Squeeze out the excess water and blend to a coarse puree with a stick blender. Add the cornflour and ricotta and stir well.

Heat the oil for deep-frying in a wide sauté pan or a karahi. There should be enough to come 5cm up the side of the sauté pan, or 10cm up the sides of a small karahi. Test the oil temperature by dropping in a small amount of the spinach mixture; it should sizzle immediately but not colour straight away.

Drop heaped teaspoonfuls of the mixture into the hot oil. You may need to do this in batches, so as not to crowd the pan. You should be able to make about 20. Carefully fry them, turning with a spoon to ensure even cooking; they take seven or eight minutes and will (unfortunately) brown on the outside, losing their vivid green colour. Remove and blot off excess oil on kitchen paper.

Once all the dumplings are cooked, place them in the curry and cook for five minutes longer. Stir in the cream or butter, if using, and serve.

serves 4–5

92

vegetables

A kofta was traditionally a meatball, but the vegetarian masses of India (who are some of the most inventive cooks I have ever come across) soon started to make their own versions. These fluffy spinach and ricotta koftas would normally have been made with paneer (Indian white cheese) but, as this is already a recipe of two stages, I didn’t want to add the extra work so tried it with ricotta instead. The resulting koftas are light, fluffy and absolutely delicious with this full-bodied, lightly spiced tomato sauce. Serve with a pilaf or with naan. Choose paprika if you want colour; chilli powder for more heat.

fluffy spinach koftas in creamy tomato curry for the curry 2 large tomatoes, quartered and deseeded 3 garlic cloves, peeled 10g ginger, peeled weight 5 tbsp vegetable oil, plus more to deep-fry 1 onion, sliced 40g cashew nuts ½ tsp turmeric ¼-½ tsp chilli powder, or ½ tsp paprika 1¼ tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp garam masala salt, to taste 2–3 tbsp double cream, or a knob of butter (optional)

for the koftas 200g spinach, I use whole leaf spinach (not baby leaf) for more flavour, well washed 2 level tbsp cornflour 200g ricotta cheese

Blend together the tomatoes, garlic and ginger to a fine paste; I use a stick blender. Heat the oil in a large non-stick saucepan. Add the onion and cook until lightly browned. Add the tomato paste, cashew nuts, spices and salt.

Cook over a moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the paste releases oil, around 15 minutes. Blend until smooth with a stick blender, adding a little water, if necessary. Add 500ml water, bring to a boil and simmer until the curry is the consistency of single cream, around eight to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the dumplings. Wilt the spinach in a pan with a little water and a good pinch of salt. Squeeze out the excess water and blend to a coarse puree with a stick blender. Add the cornflour and ricotta and stir well.

Heat the oil for deep-frying in a wide sauté pan or a karahi. There should be enough to come 5cm up the side of the sauté pan, or 10cm up the sides of a small karahi. Test the oil temperature by dropping in a small amount of the spinach mixture; it should sizzle immediately but not colour straight away.

Drop heaped teaspoonfuls of the mixture into the hot oil. You may need to do this in batches, so as not to crowd the pan. You should be able to make about 20. Carefully fry them, turning with a spoon to ensure even cooking; they take seven or eight minutes and will (unfortunately) brown on the outside, losing their vivid green colour. Remove and blot off excess oil on kitchen paper.

Once all the dumplings are cooked, place them in the curry and cook for five minutes longer. Stir in the cream or butter, if using, and serve.

serves 4–5

92

vegetables

A kofta was traditionally a meatball, but the vegetarian masses of India (who are some of the most inventive cooks I have ever come across) soon started to make their own versions. These fluffy spinach and ricotta koftas would normally have been made with paneer (Indian white cheese) but, as this is already a recipe of two stages, I didn’t want to add the extra work so tried it with ricotta instead. The resulting koftas are light, fluffy and absolutely delicious with this full-bodied, lightly spiced tomato sauce. Serve with a pilaf or with naan. Choose paprika if you want colour; chilli powder for more heat.

Anjum Anand

Quadrille Publishing Ltd, Alhambra House 27-31 Charing Cross Road, London WC2H OLS www.quadrille.co.uk

GREAT CURRIES TO COOK AT HOME