Eastern Home & Travel – July/August 2017

WANDER THROUGH WILD, WONDERFUL, WEST VIRGINIA

July/August 2017

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PRESERVE LIGHTHOUSES WITH A PASSPORT TOUR

CLIMB ABOVE THE CLOUDS IN NEW HAMPSHIRE

PHOTO: RICHARD SPEEDY

55 Stockton Street • Princeton, New Jersey 08540 morven.org • 609.924.8144 Wednesday – sunday 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Guided tours & special exhibitions Morven is supported in part by a grant from the New Jersey Department of State, Division of Travel & Tourism

Newark and the Culture of Art: 1900-1960 Open through January 28, 2018 Windy Night, Newark, 1917. Stuart Davis (1892 - 1964). Private Collection. © Christie’s Images Limited 2010

Sponsored by Achelis and Bodman Foundation • Pheasant Hill Foundation • Liza and Schuyler Morehouse • Kalkin Family Foundation The exhibit is also supported in part by a grant from the New Jersey Department of State, Division of Travel & Tourism

COME OUT & PLAY!

Just a short drive away is a unique blend of picturesque and historic towns, sites that changed the course of our nation’s history, racing and gaming, and events for the whole family. Renowned inns, restaurants and boutiques are nestled amongst whitewater rafting, biking trails, zip-lines and endless adventure. Jefferson County is waiting to show you the time of your life.

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contents features 14 FILL YOUR PASSPORT WITH LIGHTHOUSE ADVENTURES

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26 42

26 CLIMB ABOVE THE CLOUDS IN NEW HAMPSHIRE

34 VISITING THE OTHER CHARLESTON 42 PRINCETON—IT'S MORE THAN A UNIVERSITY

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contents 52 WILD, WONDERFUL LAND OF PROMISE 60 BEACH HOMES AWAY FROM HOME

52 60

departments 24 EAST COAST FINDS

THE CHARM AND CHARITY OF FOOD

59 GREAT READS

“NEW YORK, BEHIND CLOSED DOORS”

BY POLLY DELVIN

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featured contributors SHUAN BUTCHER An Army veteran, Shuan has spent most of his life working in the nonprofit sector on issues such as arts and culture, heritage tourism, civic engagement, and community development. He is a member of the National Press Club. He published “Inspiration to Serve: 101 Quotes about Kindness, Caring, and Giving,” co-authored “Making Change for the Better: The Importance of Youth Giving,” and contributes to a variety of local, regional, and national publications.

CHARITY BETH LONG is the domestic diva behind VintageKitty.com, a home and garden journal that celebrates a fun, hands-on approach to homemaking. Follow Charity as she chronicles her pursuit to mix up the old and the new in her Victorian home in the beautiful eastern panhandle of West Virginia. Domestic bliss is not just wearing pearls while you vacuum!

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Volume 5, ISSUE 5

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Donna Elbert, Publisher donna@pulsepublishing.net

EDITORIAL

Melissa Howes-Vitek, Executive Editor melissa@pulsepublishing.net

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Hailey Sarno, Operations and Digital Manager hailey@pulsepublishing.net

STEVE SEARS Based in New Jersey, Steve Sears began his freelance writing career following a heart attack in 1996. His faith and a deep appreciation for family, a fine wine and a good burger have provided Steve with a wealth of material with which to weave many an engaging tale. He has written for the business, bridal and hospitality industries, and has been published in a variety of state, regional and national publications. SteveSearsWriter.weebly.com.

TY UNGLEBOWER is a freelance writer, fiction author, sometime stage actor and unabashed introvert. He lives in Knoxville, Md. You can follow him on Twitter @TyUnglebower, or read his blog at TyUnglebower.com.

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from the

editor During a recent trip to a conference, our staff was fortunate to spent several days learning new ways to better serve you as our readers. Digital avenues, social media projects, and video clips are in the works to provide you an even more intimate look into the places and people we meet along the East Coast.

There are beaches that need combing, food that needs tasting, home interiors that need sharing and our writers are committed to exploring these aspects that make the East Coast a spectacular place to travel.

While it's pretty certain that there is nothing more relaxing than some time spent near the water (and we're prepared to keep confirming that), we’ve found that touring restored lighthouses, exploring art galleries, and tasting local cuisine are just a few of the tried and true ways to make the most of a traveling adventure.

On The Cover

Portland Head Light in Cape Elizabeth, Maine.

Story on page 14.

Our intention is to provide a spark that sends you off the sofa and on to your next adventure.

Our wish for you is that while you collect tokens and souvenirs, enjoy meals, and discover new places, that most of all, you gather memories that last a life time and beyond.

Cheers!

P H OTO B Y I S TO C K . C O M / T R AV E L E R 1 1 1 6

1-year/6 issues subscription $18.00 2-year/12 issues subscription $29.95 Subscribe online at EasternHomeAndTravel.com or call 301-662-6050.

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Melissa Howes-Vitek, Executive Editor

P H OTO G R A P H Y: B A R B C A M P B E L L

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B Y C H A R I T Y B E T H LO N G

P H OTO G R A P H Y: C H A R I T Y B E T H LO N G

FILL YOUR PASSPORT WITH LIGHTHOUSE ADVENTURES

Take a vacation on any American coastline and you are bound to see a lighthouse.

From the rocky shores of Maine to the shallow waters of the Chesapeake Bay, lighthouses stand as symbols of safety.

They are memorialized in Edward Hopper paintings, emblazoned on vacation postcards and serve as the backdrop for cheerful family photos. However, these

P H OTO G R A P H Y: C H A R I T Y B E T H LO N G

seemingly enduring landmarks are under constant threat.

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P H OTO G R A P H Y: C RHEADRIITT Y B E T H LO N G

These once crucial beacons for mariners, thanks to modern navigational aids, are now relics; long gone is the era when the U.S. Lighthouse Services appointed “keepers” to tend the lights. Not only do lighthouses face the onslaught of storms and soil erosion, these iconic structures also suffer neglect or abandonment.

The few lighthouses that remain in service are automated by the Coast Guard and those that have been decommissioned are maintained by a diverse group of nonprofit and government organizations.

So how does a rag-tag group of lighthouse stewards advocate for preservation? Enter the United States Lighthouse Society (USLS). In the early 1980’s, the founder, Wayne Wheeler, found himself to be an accidental expert within the Coast Guard civilian service. You could call his office a “lighthouse library” of sorts because of the vast array of lighthouse records kept there. Although historic preservation efforts were under way across the country, they lacked a unified voice; however, at his dining table one evening, Wheeler became the leader they needed and the USLS was formed.

Now, more than 30 years later, the USLS is led by Executive Director Jeff Gales. He says it didn’t take long for the society to realize that it would take more than a quarterly magazine and research library to get the public excited about lighthouse preservation.

“Mr. Wheeler found that the most inspirational place to get interested in lighthouse preservation was to visit actual lighthouses,” Gales said.

In 1995 the USLS launched the Lighthouse Passport Program. The goal was simple—encourage people to visit lighthouses and lead visitors in the direction of lighthouse stewardship. It was an overwhelming success!

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Now, the USLS sells about 10,000 passports per year and Gales says the “scope of the program has grown so much” thanks to “strength in numbers.” With about 600 participating locations, passport enthusiasts can discover artistic passport stamps on every American coastline as well as the Great Lakes.

Gales explains that the Lighthouse Passport appeals to all ages, but that there’s a special draw for grandparents and grandchildren. Partly, there is a “challenge of filling up a passport book,” but there is a philanthropic lesson, too. With each stamp earned, passport visitors are encouraged to make a $1 donation and this aspect of the program is why Gales feels the program is unique when compared to other tourism passports. “We are able to engage people in a meaningful way to get interested in lighthouses.”

Two such collectors are Sierra and Kayla Farrell of Valrico, Fla. The girls are just 5 and 2 years old, but they are already working to earn a badge for completing a passport book. It’s a monumental task that requires 60 stamps for completion. Sierra used birthday money to purchase her passport and so far has 17 stamps; however, the family has two trips planned to visit Gulf Coast lighthouses soon, so there are more to come!”

It’s this multi-generational zeal for stamp collecting that the USLS credits for instilling a “lifelong love for lighthouses.” Thanks to the popularity of the Lighthouse Passport, Gales says the society is “constantly adding properties to the program.” Although there are not many lighthouses withstanding to add to the program, Life Saving Stations are another matter.

P H OTO G R A P H Y: C H A R I T Y B E T H LO N G

Long before the Coast Guard, the United States Life Saving Service was set up to rescue shipwrecked mariners. Today “only about 25 or 30 life-saving stations are still standing. It’s a part of history that has almost been lost,” says Gales. Of the surviving stations, about half are in the Lighthouse Passport Program.

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The passport includes many opportunities for learning about maritime history. From museums to Coast Guard stations to lightships, there is demand for more stamps. “We get contacted by local townships requesting additional stamps, to place a stamp within town hall or a visitors center,” Gales said.

The society is working to meet the demand. Recently, the Coast Guard 36500 Motor Lifeboat, featured in the Disney film “The Finest Hours,” was added to the list. It’s just one of the many stamps that can be earned on a boat, because many lighthouses are only accessible by boat, the society offers tours to get those hard-to-find stamps.

If you’re wondering how to discover all the passport adventures awaiting you, the USLS has a very helpful website that lists all passport sites. You can purchase your Lighthouse Passport and sign up for the free Passport Club there as well. They’ll get you started with your first stamp—the official Passport Club Stamp—and you will receive an e-newsletter containing stamp collecting tips and information about new stamp locations.

Collecting stamps can be addictive, but you’ll take back more than a stamp at the end of your lighthouse adventure. Along the way you are likely to meet smiling National Park Service Rangers, watch the sunset to the music of lapping waters, learn the history of the Fresnel lens and, if you decide to see the view up top, you’ll get in some exercise, too!

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H I STO RY I S J U ST T H E B E G I N N I N G

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P H OTO G R A P H Y: I S TO C K . C O M / B E N O

EAST COAST

THE CHARM AND CHARITY OF FOOD Summer is finally here and that means crab and lobster time for those on the East Coast! Delicacies Jewelry has the perfect memento for the crab boil and clam bake lover in your life! Corn, Crab and Lobsters, OH MY! Why not commemorate a favorite time of the year and a favorite foodie indulgence at the same time? For under $65, you can choose from Delicacies Jewelry new sterling silver ingredient pendants or bracelets. They offer a wide range of ingredients, from corn to crabs to pineapples. Their charm ingredients are also available in several different settings, from $50 bracelets (with partial proceeds going to charity) all the way up to a luxurious $4,000 “Diamond Dave” pendant.

P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F D E L I C A C I E S J E W E L R Y

In collaboration with Chef Andrew Zimmern, Delicacies has created its own Chef’s Table, the brand’s conduit for charitable giving, which will feature three generous, well-known chefs each year to harness a shared love of food to fight hunger. Delicacies' first Chef’s Table includes Chefs Marcus Samuelsson, Dominique Crenn, and Gavin Kaysen.

Every piece of jewelry purchased creates “Delicacies Dollars”—money donated directly to a nonprofit organization that fights hunger and food insecurity.

Consulting the Chef’s Table of culinary experts to decide on the hunger relief organizations that the Delicacies Dollars go to, Delicacies uses the energy and love present in their simple, beautiful ingredients to help ALL of us. Delicacies Jewelry made its first donation to Share Our Strength/ No Kid Hungry in April, Zimmern’s charity of choice.

It’s simple. Wear generosity. Feed (your) humanity. Delicacies Dollars fight hunger. What's your ingredient?

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P H OTO G R A P H Y: I S TO C K . C O M / K I C K S TA N D

CLIMB ABOVE THE CLOUDS IN NEW HAMPSHIRE It only takes about 30 minutes to climb to the highest peak in the Northeast, home to the “world’s worst weather.” A trip to the Mount Washington region of New Hampshire is truly a one-of-a-kind experience.

P H OTO G R A P H Y: I S TO C K . C O M / Z R F P H OTO

For more than 150 years, folks have been using the Mount Washington Auto Road to visit this unique peak. Since 1861, the privately owned and operated Auto Road has allowed the public to climb the 6,288-foot Mount Washington in vehicles, first stagecoaches, then automobiles.

You can also visit on foot or via railway; someone even rode a camel to the top, and another person, a unicycle! Each year, the Auto Road celebrates Alton Weagle Day in late May, honoring the man whose passion for Mount Washington led him to climb the Auto Road in a number of unique ways— walking backwards, blindfolded and pushing a wheelbarrow full of sugar, to name a few.

But, if you’re not inspired to climb Mount Washington while wearing a hot dog suit or onboard a pogo stick, never fear. You do have other options.

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Thousands of hikers choose to ascend the mountain in spring, summer, or fall, with summer being the most popular due to the best weather conditions. Those choosing to walk to the summit should be aware that even when the weather is beautiful and warm at the base, rapid shifts can change the weather into winter-like cold. Hikers should be outfitted appropriately (no flip flops!) and bring plenty of water. Those of average health and experience usually take about four-and-a-half hours to get to the top, and another three to walk back down. It can be a difficult climb—most of the deaths recorded on the mountain have been hikers who got caught in an unexpected change of weather and failed to turn back.

Another way to get to the top is aboard the Mount Washington Cog Railway. The world’s first mountain-climbing cog railway uses a Marsh rack system and one or two steam locomotives and six biodiesel-powered locomotives to carry visitors to the top. You begin at an elevation of 2,700 feet above sea level, and end just short of the peak, traveling over an average grade of 25 percent on your 3-mile journey. It’s a slow ride, at between 3 and 4 miles per hour, and takes a little more than an hour to ascend, and about 40 minutes to descend. Plan for a 3-hour round-trip experience, with time at the top of the peak to explore.

The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) maintains many trails in the White Mountain National Forest and operates a visitor center in Pinkham Notch.

Another option, of course, is to drive. But will you drive your own vehicle or allow someone else to take the wheel on a guided tour? This depends on

Along with advice and trail information, AMC offers a number of maps and guidebooks as well.

P H OTO G R A P H Y: I S TO C K . C O M / M I L E H I G H T R AV E L E R

how comfortable you think you will be navigating a steep, narrow mountain road without guardrails.

If spending 30–45 minutes climbing up or down a steep incline with huge dropoffs on either side, with cars coming toward you from the opposite direction sounds terrifying, you’ll probably want to consider a guided tour.

Experienced drivers get behind the wheel of a passenger van (called “stages” after the stagecoach tours that once climbed the mountain). You’ll be escorted up the mountain on a regular 2-hour tour, or a 3-hour adventure tour, with options for short hikes and discussions on flora and fauna along the way. Reservations for either guided tour are recommended.

Assuming you can handle heights, go ahead and drive your own vehicle. It will be an experience you won’t soon forget. Start at the base area toll house, where

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P H OTO G R A P H Y: I S TO C K . C O M / P H OTA WA

As you begin, things seem fairly normal. Leafy trees surround you, and the paved roadway is plenty wide enough for two cars. Soon, things will change. As you wind your way uphill, you will experience four distinct climate zones. Your forested surroundings switch to pine trees, and eventually, these begin to thin out as well. All that will be left is something known as krummholz, or stunted, wind-blown trees that grow near the treeline on mountains. There’s something oddly beautiful about these small, ugly trees, straining to grow in a landscape that looks extremely 30

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P H OTO G R A P H Y: S P E N C E P H OTO G R A P H I C S

you’ll pay a fee per rider. In exchange, you will be handed a large envelope containing information, a pre-recorded CD tour that guides you up the road with entertaining historical tidbits (construction began in 1854, and the road opened to the public in 1861; the first car ascended in 1899), and the coveted “This Car Climbed Mt. Washington” bumper sticker.

P H OTO G R A P H Y: I S TO C K . C O M / K I C K S TA N D

unforgiving. Some of these trees, only a few feet tall, are more than 100 years old.

before you hop out of your car. It’s likely to be very, very windy out there.

The road is gravel-covered now and you’ll see steep drops from the windows of your car. As you look around, the clouds seem closer, and suddenly you are above the tree line. No trees can grow at this height of 4,200 feet, lichen growing on rocks are some of the only signs of life. The scene is almost alien-like, as if you are on a distant planet, a space explorer checking out a new world. Depending on the day, you could now have a spectacular view or, you could be surrounded by foggy clouds as far as you can see. Either way, the experience is spectacular and rare.

Mount Washington sits at the intersection of several major storm tracks, according to weather observers who do research at the summit. The jet stream carries nearly every storm moving westto-east, and southwest-to-northeast across the country, right over Mount Washington. There, they intersect with weather systems moving south-tonorth, up the Atlantic coast.

Now, you are at the top of the highest peak in the Northeast. About 30 minutes is all it took to make the 7.6-mile ascent to this other world. Grab your sweater or winter jacket and turn up your collar

The highest wind speed ever directly observed by humans was on the summit of Mount Washington.

You’ll see a sign on the side of a building commemorating the event. There, on April 12, 1934, weather observers stood outside with an anemometer and measured wind speeds of 231 mph. The device stopped working at that speed, even as they said they felt it gust stronger.

(New Hampshire conceded its title as the site of the fastest wind gust ever recorded on Earth in 2010, when it was discovered by the World Meteorological Organization that a 253 mph gust on Australia’s Barrow Island was measured during Cyclone Olivia in 1996, but never officially reported.)

Take some time to wander around the summit.

On the clearest of days, and with great eyesight, you should be able to see for about 130 miles, including Vermont, New York, Massachusetts, Maine, Quebec and the Atlantic Ocean. But, even on poor visibility days, the view and the experience of being on top of the East Coast, are breathtaking.

Several buildings are situated at the summit, including the Mount Washington State Park Sherman Adams Visitor Center, which hosts a cafeteria serving a variety of food and beverages and a gift shop on the main level, as well as EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL

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P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F O M N I M O U N T WA S H I N G TO N R E S O RT

restrooms and a post office. At the post office, you can purchase postcards and get a special postage cancellation for your letters back home.

Once you’ve reached the base, you’ll need to find a place to rest your head, and there are many charming options in the region.

On the lower level you’ll find another gift shop and a museum recently renovated by the Mount Washington Observatory called “Extreme Mount Washington.” Interactive exhibits allow you to be immersed in the experience of the extreme weather conditions of a Mount Washington winter.

The Bernerhof Inn Bed and Breakfast in Glen was built in the 1880s as a lodge and has been in continuous use since it was built. The inn was purchased by Dick Badger in 2010 at an auction. He loved the building and wanted to see it restored to its former glory, and he did just that. Renovations to the romantic getaway were completed in 2016 to the 12-room inn. Soak your tired feet in the rooms’ Jacuzzi tubs, and stretch out on a king-size bed in this comfortable and relaxing inn.

The park and summit building are closed from November through April each year.

When you’re ready to make the trek back down the mountain, plan to stop a few times to take in the view and grab some photos. There are plenty of opportunities to stop and park alongside the slope.

On our visit, we even witnessed a Catholic priest conducting Mass along an outcropping of large stones.

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The Libby House Inn on Main Street in Gorham is an 1891 Victorian bed and breakfast surrounded by the White Mountains. With beautiful gardens and a relaxing front porch, the inn is a great place to

use as a home base. It’s close to everything, in the center of town right on the Town Common. The Libby House’s barn is known as a hiking hostel on the Appalachian Trail.

Another great lodging option is the Omni Mount Washington Resort, in Bretton Woods. The National Historic Landmark opened in 1902 and features a classic Donald Ross-designed golf course, awardwinning Alpine and Nordic ski center, a signature spa and dining facilities, not to mention its nine high-flying zip-lines. Its 200 guest rooms and suites offer luxury and New England charm. Many rooms include a fireplace and stunning mountain views.

No matter what accommodations you choose, you’re sure to have an unforgettable experience in New Hampshire’s extreme Mount Washington region.

—Molly Fellin Spence

P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F O M N I M O U N T WA S H I N G TO N R E S O RT

RESOURCES LODGING THE LIBBY HOUSE INN 55 Main St., Gorham 603-723-6129 libbyhouseinn.com OMNI MOUNT WASHINGTON RESORT 310 Mount Washington Hotel Road, Bretton Woods 603-278-1000 omnihotels.com/hotels/brettonwoods-mount-washington THE BERNERHOF INN BED & BREAKFAST 342 US Route 302, Glen 877-389-4852 bernerhofinn.com

ACTIVITIES MOUNT WASHINGTON OBSERVATORY mountwashington.org MOUNT WASHINGTON STATE PARK nhstateparks.org/visit/state-parks/ mount-washington-state-park.aspx

GORHAM NEW HAMPSHIRE MOOSE TOURS 69 Main St., Gorham 877-986-6673 gorhamnh.org

MOUNT WASHINGTON AUTO ROAD 1 Mount Washington Auto Road, Gorham 603-466-3988 mtwashingtonautoroad.com MOUNT WASHINGTON COG RAILWAY Bretton Woods 603-278-6404 thecog.com APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN CLUB Lodging and Hiking Information 603-466-2721 wmgonline.org

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P H OTO G R A P H Y: I S TO C K . C O M / L A R R Y K N U P P

VISITING THE OTHER CHARLESTON B Y S H U A N B U TC H E R

A trip to Charleston should definitely be in your future. No, not the port city in South Carolina.

I’m talking about the Charleston nestled in the Appalachian Mountain Valley of West Virginia.

The hip, historic, heavenly city provides access to world-class arts and craftsmanship, history, fabulous boutique shopping and a surprisingly good culinary scene.

the world’s oldest seed as well as Emmiline and Alexander, the celebrated couple of the flea circus that passed away more than 100 years ago (don’t ask, you just have to see them for yourself).

The museum follows a chronological sequence, first telling the story of the pre-historic period through modern times. Several notable national figures, such as George Washington, Daniel Boone and John Brown, are featured prominently and woven together to tell West Virginia’s Story. You’ll also learn about folks such as Anna Jarvis, a native of the state and founder of Mother’s Day. Mountain Stage, a music program that can be heard on about 200 public radio stations across the country, calls this cultural center home. This show is recorded live in front of a studio audience.

If you are in Charleston during one of their tapings, go. Not only do you get a concert featuring four or five unique artists, but it gives you a sense of nostalgia for the old-time radio shows before television. I particularly enjoyed listening to Pokey LaFarge, Ruthie Foster and Fred Eaglesmith during a recent show.

Charleston’s capitol building, made primarily of limestone on the outside and marble on the inside, was designed by architect Cass Gilbert, who designed the world’s first skyscraper (the Woolworth Building in New York) as well as the U.S. Supreme Court building and other state capitals. The dome is 5 feet higher than the dome of the U.S. Capitol and is adorned in 23-karat gold leaf.

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The grounds are covered with statues that pay tribute to everyone ranging from President Abraham Lincoln (the state was created out of the Civil War) to coal miners and everything in between.

It is also home to a very nice memorial honoring veterans. A number of festivals take place on site as well, including the well-known Vandalia Gathering.

Adjacent to the capital building sits the West Virginia Division of Culture & History. The museum dates back to 1894 and is one of the best state museums in the country. It has been highlighted by the Travel Channel and Trip Advisor and contains some wonderful historic artifacts as well as some rare oddities. For example, here you can find

The Clay Center also hosts a rotating art exhibit, a permanent collection of artwork from the likes of Andy Warhol and other well-known artists, and an interactive climbing sculpture for kids. The venue also has multiple performing arts venues that allow for theater, dance and music of all kinds to be viewed.

A short drive from Charleston is one of my favorite places of all-time: Blenko Glass, located in Milton.

Blenko can trace its roots back to 1892 when an English glassmaker came to the United States. Four attempts later, he settled in the town in 1929 and the business finally took off.

P H OTO G R A P H Y: I S TO C K . C O M / S C OT T N O D I N E

For the millions of state capital buffs like me, the first stop must be the seat of the Mountain State’s government. I love visiting state capitals for their architecture, history and art. You also get a sense of what the state values in terms of industry, people, communities and stories.

Another state-of-the-art facility is the Clay Center for Arts & Sciences, which truly blends the arts, science and education under one roof. The current exhibit, “Grossology: The (Impolite) Science of the Human Body,” is an exhibit based on the bestselling book of the same name that has traveled the country. It will be in Charleston through August and is great for kids (and some adults).

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The State of West Virginia was once home to approximately 470 glass manufacturers, but Blenko is one of only four left. The factory has produced window glass and other architectural functions for decades and can be found in places such as the National Cathedral and others around the world.

Their decorative art pieces are what draw most people to the factory. Free self-guided tours are offered most weekdays and guided tours are available for groups, if pre-arranged. There is also an onsite museum and gift shop. Once a month, they offer classes where you can actually make your own glass piece as well. What I like about this place is that they use the same methods and tools that the master craftsmen in Europe used hundreds of years ago.

For more fabulous arts and crafts, take a short drive to The Tamarack, about 40 minutes from Charleston, in Beckley. Advertised as the “Best of West Virginia,” this place offers gorgeous specialty items made by artisans across the state including metal, wood, glass, pottery, jewelry, furniture as well as musical instruments, music, books and food. The restaurant offers a fantastic taste test of what the state has to offer. Among the favorites are the fried green tomato sandwich and the rainbow trout, but I would also recommend the Burgundy-braised beef tips, which were extremely tender and melted in my mouth.

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One more artsy thing you should do if you have the opportunity is to join in on one of Footmad’s Old Time Dances… it will be worth it. Footmad, short for the Friends of Old Time Music and Dance, has been around for more than 35 years. They promote the traditional arts through a concert series as well as open dances they hold throughout the year. The dances feature a live local band.

The night I was there featured a local band known as the Wild Hares (three guys that played guitar, banjo and fiddle) playing music of all sorts, including some Irish and French tunes. Attendees participated in a variety of dance styles such as Contra, Square and Irish. No experience is necessary nor do you have to be in shape or have any experience, as instruction is

provided. It is a great way to meet new people and just have fun. There were lots of beginners there and the patrons were multi-generational. It is free to first-timers and most other patrons donate $5 to help cover the expenses.

During my visit to Charleston, I stayed at the new Sheraton Four Points, which offers great views of the Kanawha River. The city is very walkable, particularly from this hotel. From here, I enjoyed visiting a number of downtown boutique shops and local restaurants. Some of my favorite stops included Taylor Books, Stray Dog Antiques and Ellen’s Homemade Ice Cream. During the summer, you can also catch free concerts in the riverfront park across the street.

In terms of restaurants, I highly recommend The Block. Everything I had was delicious. For starters, try the meatball trio, which includes a pesto pork,

béchamel chicken and beef marinara. All three had their own distinctive flavors. For the main course I had the Sriracha maple-encrusted chicken, which provided a good combination of sweet and spicy. It was served with a side of roasted corn and sautéed grapes. The wine selection was impressive and well displayed behind a glass wall in the restaurant. You can also view the cheese and meats in a separate space.

The Capitol Market also provides a number of food choices. Housed in an old transfer dock for the Kanawha and Michigan Railroad, the vendors at the year-round indoor market sell everything from chocolates and coffee to fresh meats and wine. At Soho’s Italian Restaurant, the sausage and pancetta frittate will make sure you don’t leave the market hungry. This Italian cheese omelet not only filled the entire plate, but also was full of flavor. For other dining EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL

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WEST * VIRGINIA 64

VIRGINIA

WEST VIRGINIA DIVISION OF CULTURE & HISTORY 1900 Kanawha Blvd., East 304-558-0220 wvculture.org CLAY CENTER FOR ARTS & SCIENCES 1 Clay Square 813-394-3172 theclaycenter.org MOUNTAIN STAGE mountainstage.org BLENKO GLASS 9 Bill Blenko Drive, Milton 304-743-9081 blenko.com THE TAMARACK 1 Tamarack Place, Beckley 304-256-6843 tamarackwv.com

A must for your list of places to visit in Charleston should be J.Q. Dickinson Salt Works (featured in the May/June issue of this magazine). Here, you can get a first-hand look at how salt is harvested from within the Appalachian Mountains. The owners see salt as an agricultural product versus an industrial one, thereby having a lower impact on the environment during the collection process.

Tours are available, as well as samples and a gift shop where you can purchase their products.

Finally, consider a stop at Spring Hill Cemetery.

I don’t typically visit cemeteries during my travels, except for special cases. In addition to being quiet and tranquil, this place was also scenic and historic. Sitting on top of a hill overlooking the city, the cemetery serves as a final resting place for 40

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governors and others who have left a mark on the entire state. If you are driving through the city and wonder about the street names, just come up here and learn more about these individuals and families.

Charleston is full of surprises and will provide you with unexpected ways to learn history, enjoy the arts and delight your taste buds. I’m looking forward to a return visit soon.

RESOURCES SHERATON FOUR POINTS 600 Kanawha Blvd., East 304-344-4092 fourpoints.com/charleston WEST VIRGINIA STATE CAPITOL 1900 Kanawha Blvd., East 304-558-4839 legis.state.wv.us/Educational/ citizens/guide.cfm#guide3

THE BLOCK 201 Capitol St. 681-265-9074 theblockwv.com SPRING HILL CEMETERY 1555 Farnsworth Drive 304-348-8010 friendsofspringhillcemetery.org CAPITOL MARKET 800 Smith St. 304-344-1905 capitolmarket.net FOOTMAD 304-729-4382 footmad.org VISIT CHARLESTON 800 Smith St. 304-344-5075 charlestonwv.com

P H OTO G R A P H Y: S H U A N B U TC H E R

suggestions in the city, consider Black Sheep, Mi Concina de Amor, or Lola’s as other fantastic options.

J.Q. DICKINSON SALT WORKS 4797 Midland Drive, Malden 828-226-1830 jqdsalt.com

8 RICH HISTORY Eclectic Architecture

DIVERSE WEST VIRGINIA CULTURE

Winding Country Roads

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The heart of the Eastern Panhandle.

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Quaint Towns Unique Shops & Restaurants

heritage farm markets

8 Arts, Entertainment & Family Fun

Easy access on I-81.

90 minutes from DC and Baltimore.

Convention & Visitors Bureau 126 E. Race St., Martinsburg, WV 25401 304.364.8801 | 801.4WVA.FUN | Travel WV.com

Photo: ©David McMasters

West Virginia State Museum CONNECT WITH US! DESTINATIONS AND INSPIRATION FOR THE WAY YOU LIVE.

/EasternHomeTravel

easternhomeandtravel.com

Open Tuesday - Saturday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

CULTURE CENTER

State Capitol Complex, Charleston

Free and open to the public.

EEO/AA Employer

P H OTO G R A P H Y: I S TO C K . C O M / J U A N M O N I N O

PRINCETON— IT’S MORE THAN A UNIVERSITY

BY STEVE SEARS

It’s summertime in New Jersey, which means it’s time to visit… Princeton.

Why not the 127-mile Jersey Shore, you ask? Well, you’ll avoid the shore traffic and throngs of people, but, most of all, Princeton is a tourist attraction in its own right.

Yes, famed Princeton University sits majestically prominent, not just as an iconic learning institution, but also an architectural and cultural marvel.

Princeton is much more than just the university; this college town has a lot happening behind the scenic Nassau Street (Route 27) A trip to Princeton is a definite must for those desiring a history lesson, an art and literary haven, a theater “go to,” or a dining cornucopia.

About 30,000 residents strong, Princeton is located just 10 miles northwest of the Delaware River and Trenton, one hour from Philadelphia and New York City, and is an artery of major freeways —The Garden State Parkway and The New Jersey Turnpike. Routes that go through the center of town, like Route 1, 27, or 206, lead you to an interesting place that you know you’ll visit again;

just one look and the vintage charm of this old college town lures you in and asks you to stay.

Q U I E T T I M E W I T H H I S TO R Y

We’ve visited Princeton many times, and on our latest jaunt we basked in both Local and American History at Princeton Cemetery, which is owned and operated by the Nassau Presbyterian Church.

It is the burial place of the only U.S. President born in New Jersey, our 22nd and 24th Commander-inChief, Grover Cleveland. Yes, you read that correctly.

Cleveland is the only American president to be elected and serve two non-consecutive terms in office. We learned some great trivia, like this additional tidbit: Cleveland is also one of only three presidents to marry while in office (another was Woodrow Wilson, also a Princeton University president).

Planning on dining and staying in town? Princeton is the home of cuisines that are sure to satisfy any hungry palate and luxurious accommodations.

An eatery worthy of patronage is Witherspoon Grill, just steps away from Princeton Public Library.

Their service is top-notch, as is their cleanliness.

If you’re a lunchtime visitor, try the crab cake with greens or their Witherspoon burger. Enjoy either at one of the eatery’s comfortable booths or, better yet, a seat at a table along the windows.

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P H OTO G R A P H Y: S T E V E S E A R S

The cemetery is also the resting place of Aaron Burr Jr., vice president of the U.S., from 1801–1805, but better known for his Weehawken duel which killed Alexander Hamilton. Other buried notables are Jonathan Edwards, theologian during the Great Awakening of the 1700s, and John Witherspoon, a signer of the Declaration of Independence.

Cemetery maps are available as you pass through the entrance gates.

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Another great option is the township’s only fullservice hotel, Nassau Inn. Located in the heart of Palmer Square, the Inn has 188 rooms and is centrally located, so you can walk to anywhere in Princeton. The Inn itself is also a part of Princeton’s deep history. A blend of historic charm and contemporary comfort since its opening in 1756, the Yankee Doodle Tap Room, located inside the legendary Nassau Inn, exemplifies gastro pub dining. The Nassau Inn Chicken Pot Pie on a prior visit returned me to my childhood in Bloomfield, N.J. Named after the bar-side mural painted by Norman Rockwell, the Tap Room’s legend includes the carvings of past guests—including Albert Einstein, who taught at Princeton University and whose home is located on its grounds—in their solid oak tabletops, as well as the famous photo gallery of notable Princeton University graduates from the last century. Visit the gallery; you’ll see quite a few familiar faces.

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Located just south of Nassau Inn on Bayard Lane is the lovely Peacock Inn, which offers 16 rooms and a gourmet restaurant. The sautéed ricotta gnocchi, which changes seasonally, has been a menu staple since the Peacock Inn Restaurant opened, and the Scottish organic salmon en croute is also a signature entree. For quicker fare, Slice Between on Nassau Street has been home since 1997 to a brick oven and a limited menu of salads, sandwiches and a small variety of pizza. Hoagie Haven is, per those who have visited when in town and advised me to do the same, the place in Princeton for any type of sandwich. Be forewarned though; you may have to battle University students for space when inside.

MORE HISTORY ON THE MAIN ROADS

Princeton was also a key component in our young nation’s Revolutionary War triumph over the British.

Many notable battles were fought and won in the Garden State, especially the Battle of Princeton. In fact, the township was at one time the unofficial capital of our young nation when the Continental Congress met at Princeton University’s Nassau Hall from June to November in 1783. Being home to

one of the most famous learning institutions in the world alone encourages visitation. The university, British North America’s fourth college, was chartered in 1746 as the College of New Jersey.

It was officially renamed Princeton University in 1896. Nassau Hall contained the entire college for nearly half a century, and it should be your first tour stop.

A unique thing about a visit to Princeton is that, if you visit on the right day, you have access to both the current governor’s mansion, Drumthwacket, and the former home of the governor, Morven Museum & Garden. Both are located just a few miles apart on Route 206. Morven was built by Richard Stockton, signer of the Declaration of Independence, and was home to five Garden State governors from 1945 to 1981. After extensive restoration, it reopened as a museum and garden in 2004. Drumthwacket, built in 1828 by Charles Olden Smith, has been the official residence since 1981. Plan and schedule your tours in advance.

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FOR ARTS LOVERS

Theater lovers will feel at home with a visit to Tony Award-winning McCarter Theater Center. In addition to its popular fall and spring schedules, McCarter Theater Center also sells tickets to The Princeton Festival, which, since 2005, has offered a plethora of dance, music and theater performances. If the symphony is a favorite, the Princeton Symphony Orchestra is now in its 37th year and located near to McCarter Theater Center.

Visual art is well represented by the Princeton University Art Museum, which officially had its unveiling in 1890.

RESOURCES New York City PENNSYLVANIA Philadelphia MARYLAND

*NEW

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PRINCETON TOURISM visitprinceton.org PRINCETON REGIONAL CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU 609-924-1776

JERSEY Atlantic City

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PRINCETON UNIVERSITY princeton.edu/main/visiting/tours

MORVEN MUSEUM & GARDEN 55 Stockton St. 609-924-8144 morven.org DRUMTHWACKET 354 Stockton St. 609-683-0057 drumthwacket.org PRINCETON CEMETERY 29 Greenview Ave. 609-924-1369 nassauchurch.org/about/princetoncemetery NASSAU INN 10 Palmer Square 609-921-7500 nassauinn.com THE PEACOCK INN 20 Bayard Lane 609-924-1707 peacockinn.com SLICE BETWEEN 242-12 Nassau St. 609-683-8900 slicebetween.com HOAGIE HAVEN 242 Nassau St. 609-921-7723 hoagiehaven.com MCCARTER CENTER THEATER 91 University Place 609-258-278 mccarter.org PRINCETON FESTIVAL 609-759-0379 princetonfestival.org PRINCETON SYMPHONY 609-497-0020 princetonsymphony.org

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PRINCETON UNIVERSITY ART MUSEUM artmuseum.princeton.edu

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P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F C A N A A N VA L L E Y R E S O RT

WILD, WONDERFUL LAND OF PROMISE

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Life has a funny way of coming full circle.

Many years ago, I was a semi-professional vocalist with a Classic Rock cover band, performing in watering holes, college dives, and resort hotels in West Virginia and Pennsylvania. It was February 1990 when our little traveling show was booked to play at Canaan Valley Resort for a weekend. The weather was fierce, but the well imbibed resort guests were friendly and appreciative of our 5 member musical caravan and our spot-on 70s-80s renditions of everything from Led Zepplin to Taylor Dayne. Great skiing, delicious food and drink, and rocking entertainment made for a memorable weekend for all. The keyboard player during those touring days is now my husband of 26 years, and the circle was made complete when we returned to Canaan Valley to celebrate our anniversary and reminisce and explore the area all these years later.

P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F C A N A A N VA L L E Y R E S O RT

Canaan Valley Resort and Conference Center is part of a state park within Canaan Valley in Tucker County, West Virginia. Nestled in the highest valley east of the Mississippi River, the park contains the second-largest inland wetland area in the United States. The area has long been recognized as a premium ski area in West Virginia; however, the area is just as magical and filled with adventurous opportunities during the rest of the year.

First opening in 1977, Canaan Valley Resort is situated in a 13-mile-long, wildlife-rich valley surrounded by mountain peaks rising 4,300 feet above sea level, this state park resort has been steadily adding to its facilities and event offerings since their $134 million renovation that began in 2013 which added two wings, 160 guest rooms plus 23 cabins and cottages, and 34 campsites.

The resort’s spring and summer offerings also include several restaurants, a lounge (featuring a

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new generation of musicians to entertain), fitness center, indoor and outdoor pools, an 18-hole championship golf course, tennis courts, miniature golf, horseshoe pits, playgrounds, sand volleyball courts, a soccer field, a basketball court, corn-hole toss, Eurobungy, scenic chairlift rides, the Turtle Slide Tube Ride, plus a climbing wall and sporting clay range (one of the few in West Virginia).

The resort offers an eclectic list of special events.

One of the biggest events of the year, the annual Canaan Valley Birding Festival celebrates the region’s vast array of bird species with programs for all levels of birders and nature lovers. The festival includes a variety of guided walks with expert birders as well as receptions and special presentations.

Wilderness Skill Classes, Edible Plant Hikes, character portrayals of notable historic figures such as Sacagawea and entertainment icons Minnie Pearl along with free concerts by the Wheeling Symphony Orchestra, kite-themed Windfest, group hikes to the summit of the Canaan Valley Ski Area, wagon rides and star-gazing parties are really just a tease of the many adventures that await visitors.

“Whether they are looking for a long weekend break or a week-long vacation, travelers will find compelling reasons to ditch the business suits and don their hiking boots,” said Steve Drumheller, general manager of Canaan Valley Resort.

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One of our favorite evenings was spent relaxing on our balcony while we watched a herd of nearly a dozen deer graze as their fawn played a game of tag among the evening fireflies. It was beyond peaceful.

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MARYLAND

Morgantown 77

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* VIRGINIA

Locals like Drumheller, a long-time resident of the valley, say that summer is such a pleasant time to visit, with warm but not-too-hot temperatures, lots of sunshine, it's the perfect place to visit whether you want adventure or relaxation.

Canaan Valley Resort is three hours from Pittsburgh, 2½ hours from Washington, D.C. and 2¾ hours from Charleston, W.Va. The drive from D.C. to Canaan Valley has recently become quicker and easier with the near-completion of the section of “Appalachian Corridor H” in West Virginia between the towns of Bismarck and Davis.

—Melissa Howes-Vitek

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GREAT READS

“NEW YORK, BEHIND CLOSED DOORS”

By Polly Delvin

Photos and stories of twenty-four real New Yorkers expose how they live in small spaces with art, books, collections, treasures, and fabulous furniture—each space expressing the resident’s unique personality. Bright, captivating photographs throughout pair dynamically with Polly Devlin’s in-depth interviews with the homeowners. Her descriptions of their spaces are delightful and bold, punctuated with literary and historic references, and always lively.

From architectural grandeur to streamlined modern buildings, see how individuals turn older apartments and historic structures into places for comfortable living. Houses and apartments are sampled from across the city, including Tribeca, Murray Hill, Union Square, Harlem, Midtown, Brooklyn, and more.

POLLY DEVLIN is an author, journalist, broadcaster, art critic. From her roots in northern Ireland, Devlin’s career has taken her into the sophisticated world of arts and letters in London, New York, and Paris. A former features editor at Vogue, and a contributor to key British newspapers and magazines, she is currently adjunct professor at Barnard College, Columbia University, New York.

Photographer ANNIE SCHLECHTER is a native New Yorker whose clients include New York Magazine, House Beautiful, Travel + Leisure, The World of Interiors, among others.

This is a visual and literary feast.

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BEACH HOMES AWAY FROM HOME

Whether planning a relaxing retreat or an action-packed vacation, Seabrook Island, located a short driving distance from historic Charleston, S.C. is the ideal getaway for groups of any size or age. Renting a home here can take the guesswork out of planning the perfect vacation with personalized itineraries for families, couples and friends.

Seabrook Island is a private, welcoming, beachfront community with two championship golf courses, a tournament grade tennis center, full service equestrian center, fitness and aquatics complex and long, unspoiled beaches. Yet, despite its tranquil ambiance, Seabrook Island is located just miles from all of the charms of Charleston, S.C., one of the south’s most romantic and hospitable cities This coastal community has a wide variety of homes, villas and cottages for rent in settings ranging from ocean and tidal creek views to golf course and secluded maritime forest locations.

Cottages and villas are ideal for couples or small groups, while homes will appeal to larger groups and families.

The Seabrook Island Club provides a variety of indoor and outdoor dining venues. Pelican’s Nest at the Beach Club offers casual summer oceanfront

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NORTH CAROLINA

Myrtle Beach SOUTH CAROLINA 26 95

GEORGIA

* Charleston

Savannah

dining with fresh and local seafood, a full-service bar and live music. The Sea View Terrace features intimate al fresco dining with striking oceanfront views. Bohicket's Lounge overlooks stunning views of the two championship golf courses and offers a casual dining atmosphere. For a formal dinner, Palmetto Room features upscale Southern cuisine and fresh local seafood.

With activities for every member of the family to enjoy, Seabrook Island is the ultimate destination for a family vacation. The Beach Club features two oceanfront pools with play areas for kids and an adjacent indoor game room devoted to excitement for all ages, including billiards, ping pong, foosball and air hockey tables. The Lake House features an indoor aquatic center with swim classes and an outdoor pool with separate toddler and adult swim areas next to an extensive sun-shaded table and lounge area.

For the little ones, parent-led pony rides are available at the equestrian center. For those 8 and up, schedule a meandering ride through the scenic woods, marshes and creeks.

Pelican Beach is the perfect choice for young children to swim in the soft waves and slow current of the Edisto River as it meets the Atlantic Ocean. Wildlife is abundant on Seabrook Island, so the whole family can enjoy beachcombing, dolphin-watching, fishing, birdwatching, biking, crabbing and much more.

On early summer mornings, the whole family will enjoy watching the nationally renowned Turtle Patrol check the turtle nests and help hatchlings march to the ocean. Even the dog can enjoy a walk or swim off leash on beautiful North Beach.

The Seabrook Island Club offers daily and weekly camp sessions every summer. Activities include island excursions, athletic workshops, pool fun,

pony rides, crab fishing, mini theater plays, arts and crafts, culinary classes, kickball, nature hikes and educational workshops.

An ideal destination for a romantic getaway, a Seabrook Island coastal view is a masterpiece in its own right, from sunrise to sunset. The area lays claim to one of the longest and most dynamic expanses of beach shoreline, so there is never a shortage of secluded spots.

Set sail on a sunset cruise at Seabrook’s Bohicket Marina. For the adventurous couple, the marina offers sailing excursions and fishing charters.

Whether planning a family holiday, a quiet couples retreat, a bachelor/bachelorette party or a reunion with old friends, the beautifully appointed homes and vast ammenities of Seabrook Island guarantee an adventure to remember for years to come. discoverseabrook.com

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Hampton Carousel

Virginia Air & Space Center

Your Hampton adventure begins with the Sea to Stars Ticket! $39 ADULT $25 AGES 4–11

Miss Hampton II

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Hampton History Museum