King Island - People, Produce & Place

KING ISLAND People, Produce & Place

GOLFING & SURFING

In a natural wonderland

PERFECT PRODUCE

Home to the country's finest cheese, beef and crayfish

WILD WINTER EXPERIENCES

Birdwatching, walking, relaxing and dining in the cooler months

SHIPWRECKS & HISTORY

Delve into an island where fascinating stories abound

WELCOME

King Island welcomes you. Grab a glass of wine and some King Island cheese. Sit on a saltbush by the rocks or barbecue a steak on the beach. Feel the energy and the rhythm of the pounding seas on this Bass Strait Isle.

Yes, it is a simple life. That’s us! We are a small, hard-working population producing world-class beef, cheese, crayfish, abalone, wallaby and kelp. Basically, we are a big farm.

Surprisingly fertile, very seasonal and now with two stunning new golf courses sculpted into the West Coast, King Island has more reasons to visit than ever before.

Enjoy a wild round of golf, fish, eat, surf, walk, be inspired to create and more. There are so many things to do, including simply enjoying the incredibly fresh food and air.

For me, King Island represents freedom. Here I can do unusual things, such as rescuing an old boathouse built in 1871 and turning it into a Restaurant with No Food.

Bring your parker, bathers and woolly hat – you might need them all in one day. Or perhaps you’ll just fling them aside and go for a swim on a remote beach.

The climate is unpredictable and the produce seasonal, but boy is it a FUN place to be.

Caroline Kininmonth ARTIST/CREATOR

PUBLISHER Michelle Hespe ART DIRECTOR Jon Wolfgang Miller ASSISTANT EDITOR Sarah Hinder SUB-EDITOR Claire Hey CONTRIBUTORS Sarah Hinder, Craig Tansley King Island magazine is published

by Publishing ByChelle, (ABN: 78 621 375 853 ACN: 621 375 853) Suite 2, Level 8, 100 Walker Street, North Sydney NSW, 2060 • (02) 9954 0349 • publishingbychelle.com The reproduction of any content, in whole or part without prior written permission by the publisher is strictly prohibited. Opinions expressed in the content are those of the contributors, and not necessarily those of the publisher.

All information in this magazine was believed to be correct at the time of publication, and all reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. Publishing ByChelle cannot accept unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. If such items are sent to the magazine, they will not be returned. We apologise if we don’t get back to your email, as we do receive a large volume of communication via various online channels. Some images used in this magazine are from istock and Getty images, and we make every effort to credit all contributors.

CONTENTS 2 FIRST WORD

Some inspiring words from long-term lovers of King Island, the legendary Ray Martin and the world-famous MasterChef, Tetsuya Wakuda.

4 CALENDAR OF EVENTS

King Island has something going on almost every month of the year. Step out into the great outdoors or get creative with the locals.

8 ARTS & CULTURE

King Island has always attracted artists, and today there is a committee spearheading the development of an arts and culture precinct around Currie Harbour.

12 HISTORY & MYSTERY

King Island has a fascinating history of shipwrecks and was home to many ANZAC soldiers. We catch up with local author and historian Luke Agati at the King Island Museum to learn more.

16 WINTER ACTIVITIES

With such temperate weather conditions, King Island's winter months are ideal for outdoor activities and the chance to relax in the indoor warmth and drink in the sublime views.

20 GOLFING & SURFING

King Island is a golfing and surfing paradise.

While enjoying the world-class golf courses and the pristine beaches with top breaks, there’s also an enormous sense of space and peace.

24 ISLAND INDUSTRIES

Daily life on King Island is often about living off the land and utilising the natural resources.

Industries such as harvesting kelp, farming and fishing mean sources of income for local families.

28 PERFECT PRODUCE

The produce on King Island is some of the finest in Australia. From top-grade beef to awardwinning cheese, crayfish, abalone, mutton bird and apples, it’s a foodie’s idea of heaven.

DOWNTIME Take a stroll on Naracoopa Jetty.

KING ISLAND 1

FIRST WORD 2 KING ISLAND

“What is it about King Island? King Island is unique, magical, wonderful.

This little island should be on everybody’s must-visit list.”

RAY MARTIN

“King Island has one of the world’s best golf courses. It produces some of the world’s best beef and cheese, is surrounded by the cool clean waters of Bass Strait that produces the famed King Island Lobster and kelp that is used in everything from pharmaceuticals to sophisticated taste enhancers. And then there are the King Islanders – what a wonderful bunch of welcoming people.”

TETSUYA WAKUDA

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WHAT'S ON around the island

The best gigs, fun festivals, cultural and sporting events around King Island.

Monthly Currie Town Hall

February Currie Harbour

The Producers of King Island Saturday morning markets showcase local produce and crafts, all of which reflect the island and those who live here.

This relaxed festival celebrates folk, indie, blues and roots music with family-fun activities, yoga and chilled acoustics. foki.com.au

POKI MARKET

FESTIVAL OF KING ISLAND (FOKI)

February or April Around King Island

March King Island Recreation Complex

March Queenscliff to Grassy

Three days of inspiring experiences are led by passionate local producers and visiting chefs with a rare opportunity for guests to get behind-the-scenes insight into King Island life at a premier paddock-to-plate experience. kingislandlongtable.com

The island celebrates its agricultural and horticultural strengths with an abundance of arts and craft displays, cattle judging, horse riding and endearing pet competitions. kingisland.net.au/ki-special-events/ king-island-show

Come and check out this race, which has been running since the 1970s, to experience first-hand the excitement of yachts sailing into Grassy Harbour.

Then meet crew members and locals alike at the King Island Boat Club. orcv.org.au

LONG TABLE FESTIVAL

4 KING ISLAND

KING ISLAND SHOW

OCEAN YACHT RACE

EVENTS

The King Island Imperial 20 is one of my favourite running events. The friendly welcome at the airport on arrival, the relaxed feel of all the activities over the weekend and the way locals treat everyone like a winner makes this an event not to be missed. And the island itself is such a beautiful place to visit." – Steve Moneghetti

March Naracoopa to Currie

KING ISLAND IMPERIAL 20

Beginning at Naracoopa, this 32-kilometre coast-to-coast foot race winds its way across the island to Currie. Participants can choose the handicapped run or opt to walk instead, or enter as a four-person relay team. kingislandrace.org.au

June Around King Island

PHEASANT SEASON

The Queen's Birthday long weekend marks pheasant shooting season on King Island.

Membership of the local Game Bird Association is essential, with funds going to its breed and release project.

EVENTS

Ruddy Turnstone

by Katie Ravich

April and November Around King Island

April Around King Island

Though King Island is an essential location for birds, systematic monitoring of them only began in 2017 with the start of the Wings on King project, which invites local and visiting enthusiasts to help gather data for further research. birdsofkingisland.com

Also known as the FACE of King Island, this festival features artistic exhibtions and silent auctions around the island.

This year's FACE is raising funds for Wings on King with the theme 'Birds in Our Lives.' birdsofkingisland.com

WINGS ON KING

May–September Currie & Grassy

KING ISLAND FOOTBALL ASSOCIATION

The only three-team AFL competition in Australia sees bitter football rivals Currie, Grassy and North battle it out for the King Island premiership.

Facebook: King Island Football Association

FESTIVAL OF ART, CULTURE AND THE ENVIRONMENT

November King Island Golf & Bowling Club, Currie

November–January King Island Racing Club, Currie

KING ISLAND GOLF OPEN

RACING CARNIVAL

Set amid coastal dunes meeting the Southern Ocean, this 36-hole, three-day event is open to any golfer with an AGU handicap. golfkingisland.com

This carnival holds seven race meetings over summer, with a field of around 40 gallopers and 25 harness horses. It’s a unique day of racing. kiracing.com.au

KING ISLAND HORSE

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THE

A R T F U L ISLE With its warm and welcoming community embracing the arts, nature and the environment, King Island is an ideal haven for creative souls.

WORDS: MICHELLE HESPE

Arts & Culture

Andrew Blake and his artwork, The Hide

Artists Dianne and Andrew Blake spent almost 20 years living in Arnhem Land as arts coordinators, surrounded by the land and people of the world’s oldest continuous culture.

Both of these creative souls have developed a reverence for King Island – its rawness and beauty – similar in ways to what they love in Arnhem Land on the other side of the continent.

When a particular parcel of land went up for sale on King Island, Andrew knew it was the one, and he wanted to buy on the spot, site unseen.

A more pragmatic approach prevailed; Dianne and their son Will flew down to check it out. “With its strong sense of community and a landscape that is so evocative, it felt right,” Dianne says.

“I wept tears of joy when we first set foot on the property,” says Andrew, who is a highly accomplished sculptor.

“I still feel that sense of joy when we are here and an immense sense of privilege to be able to live in such a remarkable place.”

The couple spent summer holidays camping on their property in order to understand its shape, the environment and often tumultuous weather. Then, working with local builder AM Milsom and Beach House Architects, they designed and built their inspirational home, which due to its unusual shape is called The Whale Tail House. Their move and their building journey was in fact a popular episode of Lifestyle Channel's Grand Designs Australia.

With their home complete, Dianne and Andrew split their time between King Island and Arnhem Land, and have recently taken on the role of arts and cultural development consultants on the island.

“We are fortunate to be able to work within the arts on King Island,” says Andrew. “What we would like to do is promote the island as a venue to visit, not just in terms of tourism, but in the sense of attracting curators and events people, so they can see what raw and natural venues the island can provide."

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Artists and creative people are typically drawn to inspirational places where the mind is free to wander, and where there is a rich sense of history. A touch of magic doesn’t go astray either, and King Island certainly offers all these elements in spades.

There are four major creative hubs on the island: King Island Cultural Centre, The Boathouse, Currie Lighthouse and King Island Historical Society Museum. Each has its own special significance to the islanders, and they are also fantastic and inspirational venues for events, festivals, film and photography.

The Cultural Centre doubles as a gallery with rooms for artists to work, and it has recently been gifted a professional printing press, which is used freely by the island's arts community.

The Boathouse is otherwise known as the Restaurant with No Food, as local artist and legendary advocate for King Island arts Caroline Kininmonth renovated and painted it, and has 10 KING ISLAND

filled the space with art and everything you need to enjoy brunch, lunch or dinner. You simply bring your own food and beverages and meet up there with friends. It’s so inspiring that world-renowned chef Tetsuya Wakuda recently cooked up a storm there for some special guests, using local produce such as beef, crayfish, cheese, wallaby and farm-grown vegetables and herbs.

The lighthouse and the museum are both treasure troves for history buffs, and as the island has such a rich history of shipwrecks and ANZAC soldiers, people often spend days exploring locations of significance.

“The masterplan is for the arts and cultural hub to be based on the land in Currie Harbour around these four landmark destinations,” explains Andrew. “We want to place greater emphasis on arts, culture and the environment here, and our role is to work with all avenues of artists and makers across the island. All of the artists operating on the island have

such different approaches, and their modes and mediums are often very island-specific, if not island-motivated.”

From earrings made out of ceramics left behind from shipwrecks, to prints of local produce and paintings of King Island’s storms, the art generated here is truly wonderful. “The changing seasons and different guises of this island are so conducive to creativity,” says Dianne.

“All of the elements you need as an artist are at your fingertips. And what you also get here are such genuine two-way relationships. The community gives visiting artists and creatives 110 per cent of their time and effort, making them feel as though they belong.”

Bird tourism is also incredibly strong on King Island, and it ties in with the arts in many ways. “There are many people who are passionate about the island's critically endangered and endemic birds. Also, annually, the migratory birds visit our shores from the arctic circle and New Zealand,”

Arts & Culture

THE WHALE TAIL HOUSE Dianne and Andrew's home was featured on an episode of Grand Designs Australia

says Dianne. “Kate Gorringe-Smith has been working tirelessly studying the birds’ flyways, and she looks at how industrialisation has affected their environments. Printing workshops are part of her program, with resulting exhibitions in Victoria and Hobart.”

Another great initiative is Wings on King, a project centred on finding and telling the story of King Island’s birds. “Promoting art and tourism goes hand-in-hand with these events,” explains Dianne. “Bird tourism and the environment, nature, history and art – it’s all tied together through the community efforts and organisations here.”

Music is yet another major part of life here, and a huge drawcard for visitors. The Festival of King Island (aka FOKI) has been attracting superb artists from all over the country for seven years. The threeday event, which is all about 'music and surf, food and fun', also includes yoga and local operators offering all sorts of activities.

HISTORICAL ART

Artists and creatives and typically drawn to inspiring places where the mind is free to wander and where there is a true sense of history. A touch of magic doesn't go astray either, and King Island offers all these elements in spades.

A poignant example of nature meeting history and art is the work of Tasmanian artist Catherine Stringer, who came to King Island for the artist-in-residence program, and is best known for her dreamy underwater images.

King Island has been the location of almost 100 shipwrecks, and Catherine researched the famous shipwreck – the Neva, which sank off Cape Wickham in 1835 claiming 224 lives.

She learned that there were 28 Catherines onboard, and this inspired her 2016 'Neva Reliquary' exhibition, which showcased a collection of 42 framed garments crafted from delicate paper Stringer handmade from seaweed. In January 2019 she returned to King Island with a new body of work called Sea Stories, which is a collection of artworks created from marine macroalgae.

“The art and culture on King Island is truly remarkable,” says Andrew. “We are so excited to be working with the community to spread word of what is being achieved here.”

Two of Catherine Stringer's artworks (top to bottom): Ocean Tears; Gown for Mary Delaney.

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History

HISTORY & TRAGEDY ON KING ISLAND

From shipwrecks to soldiers, King Island is rich with history. We spoke with Luke Agati, president of the King Island Historical Society, to find out about the island’s past.

WORDS: SARAH HINDER

It’s easy to assume that King Island has always been as it is today: bustling with industry and home to a thriving and welcoming close-knit community. But from its tragic shipwreck history to its significant involvement in World War I – not to mention its more ancient history as former home to Australia’s only pygmy emu – this rugged, windswept island’s past is complex and unique.

SHIPWRECK STORIES

There’s a dark and gripping history of wrecks off King Island’s shores. Close to 100 ships have foundered here,

claiming a total of more than 1000 lives.

The most significant of these was the Cataraqui wreck of 1845. “It was a ship from England, bound for Melbourne as part of what they called the ‘bounty scheme’, where passengers were given free passage to Australia,” Luke explains. “It was supposed to be the last vessel to accept the bounty scheme. Unfortunately, coming into the Southern Ocean during winter, with gales and incessant rain, navigation was almost impossible for the captain.

Lo and behold, the vessel slammed straight into the middle of King Island,

History

just south of Currie, and almost 400 people lost their lives on the rocks.”

Tragically, around half of those passengers were children under 14.

“It remains Australia’s worst civil maritime disaster in history. King Island today still has a lot of respect for the ship and the site. We still talk about it and make sure others are aware of what happened back then as it affected so many people. In 1995 there was a commemoration 150 years after the disaster, and we’re currently putting together a plan and program to get as many people together as possible to commemorate the 175th anniversary of the tragedy in August 2020.”

Luke explains that the high number of wrecks was caused by the treacherous nature of the sea at the western edge of Bass Strait, between

Cape Otway on the Victorian south coast and Cape Wickham on the northern tip of King Island.

“Captains and seafarers used to call it ‘the Eye of the Needle’, and if you didn’t go through that eye perfectly, you were slammed into King Island.”

In fact, following the Cataraqui disaster, talks began to erect a lighthouse in the island’s north. Thanks to the poor communications and outof-date maps of the day, however, once it was installed in 1861 Cape Wickham Lighthouse initially made things worse.

“A lot of seafarers coming into Bass Strait from Europe mistook Cape Wickham for Victoria’s Cape Otway, so they sailed further south and went straight into King Island. We had an extra 13 shipwrecks in a matter of 18 years, and a lot more loss of life.”

Not every ship was doomed, however. An astounding survival story is the Netherby wreck of 1866. The vessel, this time carrying immigrants headed for Queensland, hit the coast two kilometres south of Currie. The ship was carrying approximately 500 people and, remarkably, everyone aboard made it safely to shore.

There was in fact a birth among the passengers, one day after everybody managed to land.

"In 2016 we had the 150th commemoration of the wreck of the Netherby. Most of the descendants from these passengers, who did eventually migrate to Queensland following the wreck, came down to King Island to pay their respects and to commemorate their ancestors on the very shores where this took place.”

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History

around to support it in any way they can. That's incredibly special.”

HONOURING THE ANZACS

"The museum really is one of the most precious things on the island. It belongs to the people, and it is a part of their lives."

ARTEFACTS AND EXHIBITIONS

A second lighthouse was built in Currie in 1879, after another major wreck, the British Admiral, not far from the township. This second lighthouse put a significant stop to maritime disasters.

Today, the former lighthouse keeper’s residence is proud home to the King Island Historical Society Museum, and setting aside an afternoon to peruse its collection is a must for any visiting history enthusiast. The museum houses three shipwreck rooms, as well as enthralling exhibitions about the first settlements and life on the island from the early 1880s, the island’s lighthouses, an agricultural room filled with artefacts 14 KING ISLAND

from those early days, an impressive collection of minerals from around the island, a natural history exhibit starring the King Island pygmy emu, and exhibits honouring the King Island ANZACs. The greatest support for the museum comes from the locals, as for many, its records detail the lives of their ancestors. “We constantly get donations from family members, which have been passed on by loved ones for generations,” says Luke. “In that respect, the museum holds a lot of precious artefacts that belong to the people still here. The museum really is one of the most precious things on the island. It belongs to the people, and it is a part of their lives, so they rally

When museum staff located a box of undeveloped glass-plate negatives portraying World War I diggers, Luke was thrilled to launch a project to develop, restore and investigate the images. They made an appearance in an exhibition to mark the centenary of the ANZACs in 2015.

“I thought these guys deserved to be remembered, especially because King Island sent the most men per capita of anywhere in the British Empire,” says Luke. “I looked into it a bit further, and there are a lot of things that have been forgotten over the century since the Armistice; major historical events that occurred on the island have been forgotten.”

Most significant was the discovery of an extra 36 names that had never been added to the honour roll and King Island’s history.

Following four years of research, and with thanks to the memories of the King Island community (many of whom remember stories of their grandparents and great-grandparents who fought) Luke and the Historical Society have pieced together a threepart book series on the history of King Island during World War I. Part three, The War Diaries and other Wartime Literature, includes two war diaries, letters home from the men fighting in Gallipoli and on the Western Front, and local war-time literature. It will be published in July 2019 to coincide with the 100th anniversary of the signing of the Treaty of Versailles.

For ANZAC Day 2019, Luke enthusiastically reveals his plans to donate a new Tasmanian blackwood board to match the existing honour roll that will include the extra 36 names that have been missing from the honour roll for the past 100 years.

STEP BACK IN TIME Currie Lighthouse's spectacular staircase

TOP

WINTER EXPERIENCES From historical coastal walks to a quirky restaurant without food, King Island is brimming with an eclectic mix of things to do throughout winter.

WORDS: SARAH HINDER

COSY CAFÉS, REMARKABLE RESTAURANTS Lauded as one of the best spots on the island for a long lunch or romantic dinner, the Restaurant with No Food is an offbeat community project conceived by local artist Caroline Kininmonth. When the old boatshed near Currie Harbour burnt down, Caroline resurrected the place, transforming the rubble into a café-cum-restaurant, painting it canary yellow and decorating every corner with her colourful, eye-catching art. Without food, chef or waiters, the quirky spot is a favourite among locals and visitors alike, who more than happily arrive with their own food and drinks in hand.

For fresh local seafood, look no further than Wild Harvest in Grassy. With a menu dictated by the seasons, the approach is to simply serve dishes accented by the island’s best produce, meaning fish, crayfish, abalone, oysters, beef, lamb, dairy and vegetables. Snuggling up by the open fireplace with a warming glass of red from the well-stocked cellar makes for the perfect winter night.

Absolute legends of the island for more than 100 years, King Island Dairy is on the King Island must-do list. At the cheese store just north of Currie, you can sample a huge variety of cheeses accompanied by a glass of wine or craft beer. Made from milk collected daily from a handful of nearby farms, this cheese could not be fresher. (Or richer, as many heartily agree!)

RESTAURANT WITH NO FOOD Artist Caroline Kininmonth conceived this quirky concept, restoring and redecorating the old boatshed with her own art.

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Winter Experiences

SECLUDED LUXURY

Nestled into a windswept cove, Porky Beach Retreat offers a luxurious stay with dramatic uninterrupted views of the Great Southern Ocean. With a vision to create a magnificent venue where people interested in nature, wildlife and adventure can sample a taste of just what King Island is all about, the four-bedroom hideaway was designed to balance absolute luxury with environmental sustainability.

With uncompromised views of its astounding surrounds from every room, and a commitment to water recycling, efficient energy and ongoing regeneration of local flora and fauna, it’s fair to say Porky has achieved just that.

Two of its most superb features are the red cedar barrel-shaped sauna, and the spa, which are incredible spots to warm up and watch the sun set over a stunning winter ocean.

BIRDWATCHING

King Island is a veritable birdwatchers’ haven. Its location in Bass Strait halfway between Victoria and Tasmania means that the island is both the only vital stopover for birds migrating north and south, and the temporary spring and summer home to several international and migratory breeding species. Keen birdwatchers can explore the island with a local species list in hand – the somewhat sparse local data on certain species in fact serves to make the venture even more thrilling.

The island provides an essential home for many birds, and is the home of critically endangered migratory and King Island subspecies including the scrubtit and brown thornbills and the orange-bellied and swift parrots.

However there is still a substantial way to go in collating data about both the value of the island to its birds and the conservation status of several of the migratory species that call King Island a part-time home.

This is where the Wings on King (WoK) project has stepped in. Inviting both local and visiting avian enthusiasts to participate in island-wide team surveys

18 KING ISLAND

twice a year, WoK aims to gather essential data on the migratory and endemic birds, which can then be analysed to propel further research.

This April, King Island’s Festival of Art, Culture and the Environment (FACE) celebrates with art exhibits and silent auctions around the island, with a focus on the theme: ‘Birds in Our Lives’. The event aims to raise both muchneeded funds and awareness for this year’s project.

WoK autumn surveys will be held April 25–28 and spring surveys will be held on November 14–17.

Winter Experiences

DISAPPOINTMENT BAY takes it name from the shipwrecked convict ship Neva, which sank off the coast in 1835. Sadly, 224 people perished.

WALKING THROUGH HISTORY Walking around King Island makes you feel as though you are tracing the steps of its rich history. Up north, Disappointment Bay lives up to the opposite of its name.

The beach is considered a favourite on the island, and its long stretch of white sand is great for easy walking. A visit to nearby Cape Wickham Lighthouse is a must, where, on a clear day, you can see all the way to Cape Otway on the Victorian south coast.

Lavinia State Reserve, on the north-east coast, boasts coastal and bush tracks through wetlands, and a lagoon in the northern section. The reserve is home to several rare birds, including the endangered orange-bellied parrot, which visits the island in autumn and spring.

Down south, the coastline of Seal Rocks State Reserve

abruptly descends into steep 60-metre cliffs with churning sea below. The Copperhead/Cliff-top Walk is a minimal impact trail that allows you to choose your own path along the rugged cliffs, while nearby are the remarkable remains of a 7000-year-old calcified forest – you can view the calcified root system of the ancient trees along a track from which you might also spot Bennets wallabies, echidnas, blue-tongue lizards and an abundance of birdlife.

The Maritime Trails around the coast follow the grim and, at times, incredible history of shipwrecks off these shores.

The trails lead to some of the most significant wreck sites on the island – and in Australia – including the Cataraqui, in which almost 400 people lost their lives, and the Netherby, which sank in 1886, miraculously without a single fatality.

PHOTOGRAPHER'S DREAMSCAPE King Island is a favourite among photographers for its unique and rugged environment. Australian landscape photographer Dean Cooper describes King Island as one of his favourite locations for photography. Dean holds four-day workshops around the island and recommends winter as the absolute best time to visit on a photography sojourn. “My workshop participants always love it,“ he says. “The coastline is very rugged,

so winter really portrays the mood and feel of this place. King Island is on the 40th parallel south, known as the 'Roaring 40s' – so you have to always be prepared for anything to happen!“ A few shots not to be missed include sweeping Disappointment Bay in the north and the sunset over British Admiral Beach with its rocky headlands and colourful kelp which washes up onto its shores.

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IN THE

KNOW King Island is home to some of Australia’s finest surfing waves and the top new golf courses … but who knew?

WORDS: CRAIG TANSLEY

20 KING ISLAND

Golf & Surf

HITTING THE WAVES The quality of King Island’s surf is legendary, though you’d scarcely know it driving around the place. There’s barely a surf shop at all. So first up, it’s worth spending time in Currie’s bars and clubs and introducing yourself – you never know which locals might give up their secret spots. There’s also a surf safari company, King Island Surf Safaris, where you’ll get plenty of local knowledge.

That said, King Island’s best wave is hardly a secret: Martha Lavinia’s famous barrels break just 30 metres off the beach on the island’s north-east coast, and Australian surf bible Surfing Life says it's in the top 10 for having some of the best waves on Earth.

Travelling professionals (such as two-time world champ John Florence) often visit to escape the crowds, and the limelight.

One thing is for sure – you’ll never be short of a swell in Bass Strait. While experts get

their fill at breaks such as British Admiral Beach and Porky, beginners will love Phoques Bay on the north-west coast. And the best thing with surfing on a small island is that, no matter which way the wind’s blowing, somewhere will always be offshore.

One thing you also needn’t worry about on King Island when it comes to surfing (or anything else for that matter) is space. In fact, locals ask that if you see another surfer out, you move to the next spot, or at least paddle up the beach! But be warned, surfing here is not for the faint-hearted: in winter the water temperature drops to 12 degrees Celsius – so you’d freeze without booties, a hood and a thick wetsuit. So if you don’t mind lonely big wave surfing in chilly water (it’s warmer in summer, when the water can reach 20 degrees Celsius), King Island is your dream surf location.

The quality of King Island's surf is legendary, though you'd scarcely know it driving around the place.

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Golf & Surf

Cape Wickham Links sits on the edge of the world. It is barely signposted but is Australia’s best public course, debuting at 24 on US golf bible Golf Digest’s 'Top 100 Courses' when it opened in 2015.

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HISTORY + RANKING That King Island could be home to two of the world’s best new golf courses comes as a shock to the first-time visitor.

There’s nothing to suggest this is Australia’s best new golf destination at all. From the little airport you'll be taken along a bumpy road to the island’s far northern tip, where Cape Wickham Links sits on the edge of the world. It is barely signposted but is Australia’s best public course, debuting at 24 on US golf bible Golf Digest’s ’Top 100 Courses’ when it opened in 2015 – one of the highest rankings by any new course in the history of the sport.

It’s not hard to see why. All 18 fairways roll straight down to gigantic sand dunes and ridges above a wild ocean; every hole has a view of the sea. Five-metre Southern Ocean swells crash onto rocky reefs beside the greens. The eighteenth hole bends around a cove where you can see surfers bobbing in the seemingly endless sea. And on the eleventh hole the green is often completely swamped by water. All this, yet there’s hardly anyone there on most days.

On some holes you travel across wooden bridges built over the coastline, on others tee shots meet beaches.

Course designer Darius Oliver says that Cape Wickham is one of the world’s great seaside courses. “I’ve seen close to 2,000 courses,” he says. “And there isn’t a golf course here in Australia or anywhere overseas that I’d prefer to play.”

Further south, on King Island’s west coast, Ocean Dunes Golf Course is Australia’s fourth best public course. Opened in 2016, Golf Australia magazine calls it: “One of the most impressive seaside locations for golf on the planet.”

It’s even more challenging than Cape Wickham’s tricky layout; on some par threes you're forced to hit across open water to greens surrounded by sharp ridges of rock. When the wind blows hard – which it does from mid-morning – playing Ocean Dunes is about as tough as it gets in golf.

But even if you’re sinking your entire collection of balls in the sea, you can’t help being impressed by the wild beauty of a course built along two kilometres of empty coastline, shaped across huge sand dunes with panoramic views from every hole. Other courses that rank so high in world golf circles often need to be booked months ahead (many courses in Scotland even require entering a ballot), but you’ll always be able to play a round on King Island.

There’s also a nine-hole course near the main township of Currie – King Island Golf & Bowling Club. Here, the locals have been playing since 1932, so it's a top spot to meet the residents and get their tips, alongside their stories.

It resembles the layout of golf’s most famous course, St Andrews. So you know you're in for another beauty.

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DAVID BOWLING Hauling in the bull kelp on King Island's southern shores.

Industry

ICONIC ISLAND INDUSTRIES Kelping and fishing are the backbone of many King Islanders’ lives, meaning they can enjoy their jobs while being in the great outdoors on one of the most pristine islands in Australia.

WORDS: SARAH HINDER

There are plenty of interesting things to get involved in on King Island, but two of the major industries that support families and individuals are kelping and fishing. There’s a lot of hard work and unusual hours in both jobs, and often the challenges and rewards are based upon the whims of the weather, but here we meet two local men who have plenty of work in both sectors, and they wouldn’t change a thing. That’s a good thing for the rest of Australia, where many people unknowingly benefit from the produce that these King Islanders bring in every month.

THE KELP HAUL

Kelp is big business on King Island, and it’s one of few places in the world where giant storm-cast bull kelp washes up by the truckload. It only grows in extremely cold water in places such as Tasmania, Chile, Norway and Iceland, and although it doesn’t have a root system it suctions on to the reef, so it takes big seas to move it, and big muscles and a winch to haul it off the beach.

For those who aren’t intimidated by hard work, King Island’s kelp karting industry can be incredibly rewarding.

In fact, for local David Bowling, collecting bull kelp is his ideal occupation. But it's not a job for those who like to sleep in.

“First thing is to set the alarm for an early rise, and depending on the time of year, you’ve got to get up before daylight," he says. "How it works here in the kelping industry is the early bird gets the worm. He who gets there early gets rewarded most.”

Kelp is in more products than people realise, and so is in extremely high demand – it’s a foaming agent in beer and a binding agent in things such as cat food, toothpaste, shampoo, salad dressing, cakes, dairy products, frozen foods and even pharmaceuticals. The cows on King Island also love to eat it, as it gives them a dose of vitamins and minerals that keeps them healthy.

Around 30 to 40 people on the island have a bull kelping licence, and with most of them collecting kelp part-time, David explains that there’s healthy competition. “There’s general respect KING ISLAND 25

WORKING THE ISLAND For King Island locals, working life can be much more than a job.

Often it's a passionate endeavour.

"Kelping is total freedom for me. It gives me total flexibility. It's tough work, but the kelp doesn’t ring you up at 9am on a Sunday to talk about real estate either!"

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and a sort of gentlemen’s agreement within the industry. We’re all in it for the long haul, and we all use common sense and decency when working with everyone around the island. It's just the way it is.”

For many kelping makes an excellent second job, and as David explains it, life as a kelp karter is about what you make of it. “An advantage is that you can work as hard as you want, and you come and go when you want. The industry is generally busiest in winter and it’s the most challenging season.

The winds turn to gale force and it can be mentally and physically tough.

You have to push through that. With everything, there’s always the other side of the coin – it's yin and yang.”

Just like most King Islanders, David has worn a few hats over the years and has much varied experience up his sleeves. He’s worked as a mechanic and panel beater and as an Intrepid tour guide in Asia, as well as served on the King Island Council and worked as a real estate agent on the island for more than 10 years. But kelping has

always been a part of what he does.

“It’s one of those things you can always fall back on,” he says.

Today David hauls and karts kelp full-time, and he’s certainly got an appreciation for the flexibility and freedom that it offers. “The thing I like about kelping is that it's total freedom for me. It's up to your own discipline whether you want to go every day or whether you just do it every now and then. It gives me total flexibility. It's tough work, but the kelp doesn’t ring you up at 9am on a Sunday to talk about real estate either! With kelping, simplicity and freedom are the new luxuries in life for me.”

Visitors to the island can learn about the kelp drying process at the Kelp Industries’ Visitor Centre, which has information about the industry. “We also often bump into tourists travelling on the coastline or at the factory on Netherby Road, where we unload the kelp,” says David. “Quite often they’ll pull up there, inquisitive about what’s going on, and we’ll have a chat while we’re working.”

Industry

"THE TOURISM INDUSTRY IS BOUTIQUE ON KING ISLAND, SO WE WORK WITH EACH OTHER INSTEAD OF AGAINST ONE ANOTHER."

Manager of the Kelp Industries factory in town emphasises that, just like all industries on King Island, the locals are very protective of the environment in which they work, because they understand that the resources around them are precious.

“We can only take what Mother Nature donates to us, washed up on the shores,” he says. “It’s illegal to take bull kelp from the ocean as it would destroy the eco-system in which it thrives. So sometimes the guys have a great day and haul in truckloads, and other days it's not as great. But that’s all part of the kelping game, and most of them also like the physical exercise and being outdoors for a living.”

FISHING FIRST

Having lived and fished the island his entire life, Matt Archer knows more than a thing or two about life on the water around King Island. Between running King Island Fishing Tours, sharing his fifth-generation knowledge with visitors, starting up King Island Coach Company, accrediting locals and tourists alike with boat licences and working on an abalone boat on his ‘spare days’, Matt says that his busy schedule is all part of the lifestyle most King Islanders lead and love. ”You’ve got to diversify on King Island to survive,” Matt explains. ”I started out driving for a bus company, and as time went by I bought the company out, and now do up to weeklong full island tour packages, as well as golf transfers, meal transfers and catering, which can sometimes mean driving visitors home at 2am!”

Beginning his fishing tours at the age of 18, Matt recalls how everyone was so supportive. ”It’s like one big family on the island. If there’s anyone who needs a hand getting started, there’s always someone who’ll help out.” Now, running the coach business as well, he describes the same welcoming sense

of community among the locals.

“The tourism industry is boutique on King Island, so we work with each other instead of against one another.”

Many King Islanders are interested in filling their spare moments with side hustle endeavours. Boating is a huge pastime on King Island and, recognising that, Matt decided to study for the qualifications to teach and train boat licensing.

“Working with MAST (Marine and Safety Tasmania), who I give the licence on behalf of, I take people out and they can get their nationally-recognised motor boat licence with me.”

Meanwhile, on his free days, when he hasn’t got a fishing charter or a tour, he helps out local Grant Jordan, working on his abalone boat.

“It fills in the odd day here and there over summer, and during winter I work quite a lot with him. I’ve worked in various other commercial activities around the island too – whether it be catching crayfish or whatever else.”

For King Island locals, working life can be much more than a job. Often it’s a passionate endeavour, zealously supported by the community.

“This island is a very welcoming place,” Matt says. “Most of us love sharing our home with others. And that’s why I’m in this industry. I love sharing my fishing tips and I love sharing stories on the tours. I love taking people out on the water and introducing them to my island – and you soon realise that most of the other people living here are like that too.”

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FOO D

GLOR IOUS

FOO D With everything so clean, fresh and pure on King Island, it’s no wonder that the food produced here is so incredibly delicious, and also really good for you.

WORDS: MICHELLE HESPE

28 KING ISLAND

"KING ISLAND FARE IS SO DIFFERENT. THERE IS NO POLLUTION HERE AND THE WATER IS FANTASTIC."

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Produce CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Fred Perry cuts open a crisp apple in his orchard; Master cheesemaker Ueli Berger with some King Island Dairy cheese offerings; a King Island delicacy: abalone; Crayfish pies from the King Island Bakehouse lure tourists and locals in.

King Island cows look like some of the happiest, glossiest, plumpest bovines in Australia. “They truly are happy cows!” says Fred Perry, a fourth-generation beef farmer and apple grower from Naracoopa. “Wouldn’t you be if this was home?

They are taken such great care of, there is always rainfall here on the island, fresh air, and they are purely grass-fed,” he explains. “Some people just see the end result: King Island beef. But what most people don’t take into account is the two years that go into creating our beef. King Island has all the right environmental ingredients, and people who care about quality working behind the scenes to create some of the best beef in the world. The cows are also not stressed because we don’t have droughts or frost, and that means they always have lush feed, and we don’t use antibiotics. None of those nasties are in our beef!”

Fred has lived on King Island for 69 years. He’s now also involved in the King Island Long Table Festival, which has been running for 11 years. As part of this three-day foodie festival, which is a farm-to-feast experience focused on “old friends and new, picking, cooking, eating,” Fred and his wife Shona do apple orchard tours. Their modest orchard features a beautiful old walnut tree where guests can sit in the shade and enjoy drinks and canapés while learning about beef farming, apple growing, and all things King Island.

On his tours Fred often includes a quiz about how many parts of a cow can be eaten (“32 in a body without including offal!” he exclaims), as he believes so many people miss out on the best parts of food because they are so accustomed to living in the fast lane and not looking into what they are actually eating, not to mention how they should eat it.

“Everything we produce on King Island is top notch,” he says. “Look at King Island Dairy – they’re certainly not producing pizza cheese, are they? This is not a tropical island, 30 KING ISLAND

it’s an agricultural island, and if you had people doing a blind taste-test of produce from here compared to mass-market produce, they would immediately taste the difference. Yes, our produce can be more expensive, but you get what you pay for. People who understand real food know that.”

Biodynamic, organic and permaculture principles are applied to most King Island farms, with farmers growing everything as naturally as possible. There’s Carmen Holloway producing some of the country’s best garlic on her permaculture farm, Ana Pimenta and Tom Perry (who both studied agriculture and have a passion for the environment) from Meat Your Beef tours, and down at King Island Dairy you can sample the famous cheeses made from milk delivered daily, sourced from just ten local farms.

Megan Chivers is another King Island local who lived on mainland Tasmania for ten years, studying food and beverage in Launceston. While back home on a visit she met her nowhusband, and they decided to stay on the island. “It was an easy decision for me, as I love it here, have roots and family here, and I love our produce,” Megan says.

Like most King Islanders, Megan wears a few hats, working in one of the local bars, as a library technician, and as the

president of the King Island Long Table Festival, working with volunteers to pull off one of the island’s most popular events.

Megan explains that the seed from which the Long Table grew was planted when local man Paul Daniel met his nowwife Cynthia, from Malaysia. The couple lived in Melbourne but when it came to their wedding, they decided on Paul’s homeland, King Island.

“Paul is a cray fisherman and a hunter, so he had their 100 or so friends and family out hunting wallaby, catching crayfish and fish, diving for abalone and foraging for fresh produce such as herbs and salad ingredients,” explains Megan. “The next day everyone prepared the food together, and then on Sunday they all sat down to enjoy the feast they’d created.

By the wedding day, they were all friends.” Fast-forward 16 years and the event has grown to feed, educate and entertain around 100 guests a day, with Pure South Dining as the caterers. “At first it was a convoy of cars heading out to farms and the sea, foraging and hunting, but we knew we had to raise the bar and make it more professional,” says Megan. “Now we have two tours – one on Friday and one on Saturday – and one year we’ll hold it in February and the next in April, so that the food offerings are different.”

In February the event is all about summer, with everything light and bright. “Think boysenberries, strawberries, blueberries, and island staples such as abalone, lamb, beef, crayfish and wallaby,” says Megan. In April the offerings include delicious apples and cider along with things such as

mutton bird, mushrooms, pumpkin and coriander.

“I get a real sense of pride seeing the quality of food produced on King Island,” says Megan. “King Island fare is different because it is incredibly clean here. There’s no pollution and the water is incredibly clean. The raw produce is so good for you, which makes you healthy and happy.

There’s no need to be in a rush here either. And the farmers, like Fred, are content because there is so much rainfall and everything is lush. Then there is the light too – it makes everything beautiful. King Island is so real.”

For a full list of King Island fare, please visit: kingisland.org.au/food/restaurants-cafes KING ISLAND 31

GETTING HERE There are many easy ways to get to King Island and start your holiday, but do note that there are no passenger ferries to the island so you’ll need to fly. Charter Aircraft fly in from as far away as Scone, New South Wales and Wilpena Pound, South Australia.

There are three airlines providing scheduled services to the island, seven days a week, from mainland Australia and Tasmania. If travelling in a group it may be surprisingly cost effective to charter a plane from a convenient location.

Rex leaves from Tullamarine once a day, with additional flights sometimes available

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in the summer. Sharp Airlines operates from Essendon Airport up to twice a day. If you’re closer to the eastern side of Melbourne you might prefer to fly with King Island Airlines who depart from Moorabbin airport twice a day throughout the year. Moorabbin is easily accessible by car from the centre of Melbourne or if using public transport you can catch the train to Cheltenham railway station and then jump in a taxi for the short trip to the airport.

Visitors from Tasmania can now fly from both Launceston and Burnie (Wynyard) with Sharp Airlines up to two times a day.

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STAYING IN TOUCH

There is no service on Vodafone or Optus networks on the island. Visitors who are unsure about which network they are on are advised to check with their service provider before arriving.

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People, Produce & Place

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