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Climbing isn’t just a department at Backcountry Experience. It’s a way of life. When our staff isn’t on the sales floor, they’re at the crag. And they’re not just climbing. They’re sharing their experience and knowledge by guiding, writing for our blog, or developing their skills as climbing photographers. Whether you’re looking for a new cam or advice on the local climbing scene, our staff is stoked to help you get outside.
Call us now for a private gear consultation
970-247-5830
Aidan Multhauf, Climbing Buyer
Kegan Thompson, Sales & Photography
1205 CAMINO DEL RIO - DURANGO, CO 81301 www.BCEXP.com • 970-247-5830
MU TA N T
Br it tle ice, fr igid temps, and big-ass mountains; this is Silver ton, where the Mutant Series belongs. Built with a per fect fit and the durabilit y to withstand ever y thing from a morning on Snow blind to smash-and-grab ascents to ex tended expeditions on ver tical chessboards. Dependable pack s w ith alpine-focused features; they ’ll get you up, but they ’ll never let you down.
Adventure Awaits. Opening November 2018
Photo Credit: Becca Skinner
Pine Needle Dry Goods is Durango’s premier outdoor clothing, accessory and gift store with the best selection of Patagonia in the area. We offer a curated selection of found items from local and international vendors with a focus on brands that do more, give back and create with a purpose. We seek to give back to our community and protect the world around us. We offer clothing and accessories for all your mountain activities including hiking, trail running, climbing, mountaineering, yoga, camping, backpacking, skiing and much more. Shop, gather, connect, and engage at Pine Needle Dry Goods.
858 Main Ave #101, Durango, CO
Dry Goods Ad_Adventure Pro_Full Page__092518_new copy.indd 1
www.pineneedle.com/drygoods
pine needle DRY GOODS 970-426-4496
9/25/18 12:58 PM
DISCOVER
the historic charm of one of Colorado’s Oldest and finest restaurants
kick back and raise a glass to good food, unique cocktails and great times at Durango’s favorite steakhouse
147 E College Dr. Durango, CO 81303 · (970) 247-5707
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6 OPENING SHOT 8 FIRST LIGHT 10 CONTRIBUTORS 12 MOUNTAIN VITALS 14 GEAR BIN 18 CURRENT CONDITIONS: CANYONEERING 20 SERENDIPITY 22 TRAIL SPURS: OUTDOOR HOUND 24 ALTITUDE ADJUSTMENT: READER PHOTOS 26 TRAIL BREAKER: GRAND STAIRCASE/ESCALANTE 28 EXPLORE: THE GREEN CHILE HIGHWAY 30 DISCONNECTED IN THE GRAND CANYON 34 HIT LIST 38 KILLER WEEKENDS 40 HOW TO: THE ADVENTURE CYCLIST 42 UNIVERSAL FLOW 44 VALLEY SECRETS 46 WILD VOICES 48 VISTAS
CONTENTS KARLI MEINERZ GREW UP HIKING AND SKIING ACROSS COLORADO. “Playing in the mountains is my passion,” said Meinerz, who makes her home anywhere she pleases in a Toyota Tacoma she calls Sherpa. “Living on the road allows me to explore more, and there’s way less packing for the next adventure.” Though she is based in Breckenridge, the Southwest Colorado mountains keep calling her back. “The San Juans have always had my heart,” she said. “They are so powerful, beautiful and demand respect.” If you can’t find her on the trails of Lake City, Silverton or Telluride, you can follow her on Instagram at @mtnbabe37
26 T R AIL B R E A K E R
Utah’s Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument is waiting for you.
42 U NI VER SA L F LOW
Head down the Rio Grande with a Native American family whose lives depend the river.
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30 DISCO N N EC TE D Adventure filmmaker Matt Sloan unplugs in the Grand Canyon.
ON THE COVER Traveling trail runner Karli Meinerz running Cunningham Gulch in Silverton, Colorado.
Photo - Terrance Siemon
Photos by Brandon Mathis
A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
DURANGO’S ONLY SPECIALTY RUNNING STORE F O R
T H E
A D V E N T U R E R
I N
A L L
O F
U S
Locally owned and operated since 2015
editorial Brandon Mathis editor Amy Maestas executive editor Terrance Siemon photographer and videographer Laurie Kain photographer and videographer Hunter Harrell copy editor c o n t r i b u t o r s Tiona Eversole Margaret Hedderman Morgan Sjogren Morgan Tilton Matt Sloan Margaret Hedderman Heath C. Scott d e s i g n Tad Smith manager of creative services Christian Ridings designer Renee Bruch designer advertising David Habrat vice president of advertising Colleen Donley advertising director Jessica Kirwan Teressa Nelson Shawna Long Kelly Bulkley Faith Harmon Liz Demko Amy Baird Emily Campana Tana Bowen Abby Feldman Heather Mobley
production
Ryan Brown
production manager
marketing
Jamie Opalenik marketing director Tiona Eversole digital marketing Cassie Constanzo client engagement manager
interactive
Jace Reynolds web designer Skylar Bolton web development manager
Douglas Bennett
chief executive officer
S U B S C R I B E Adventure Pro is now available wherever you roam.
A DV E NTUREPRO. /ADVENTUREPROMAG
@ADVENTUREPROMAG
Stop by and let our friendly, expert staff help you with all your running needs.
@ADVENTUREPROMAGAZINE
u s
ADVENTURE PRO MAGAZINE
© 2018 All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Published in the United States by Ballantine Communications, Inc. – 1275 Main Ave., Durango, CO 81301. Ballantine Communications uses reasonable effort to include accurate and up-to-date information for its special publications. Details are subject to change, so please check ahead. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this guide. We welcome suggestions from readers. Please write to the editor at the address above.
473 E. College Dr. Durango, CO 81301 970-764-4366 durangorunning.com Mon-Sat 10am-6pm Sun 12pm-5pm F A L L 2 0 1 8
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OPENING SHOT Named from Navajo words meaning shale hills and cranes, the Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness in northern New Mexico is unlike much of its surrounding landscape in the San Juan River Basin. The peculiar formations of these exceptional badlands are known as hoodoos: Unlikely creations of erosion-carved coal, silt and mudstone that result in curious congregations of shapes, swirling hills of towers and stools that create a dreamy, space-like environment. You can find petrified wood everywhere, and fossils of prehistoric creatures have been found here such as the Bisti Beast, a tyrannosaur recovered in 1998 during the first paleontological excavation in a federal wilderness area. The dinosaur, officially called Bistahieversor sealeyi, is a tyrannosauroid with a 3-foot skull from the Late Cretaceous period, about 30 million years ago. There are no trails in the Bisti, but adventurers can let imagination and curiosity lead them into this irregular world. Photo by Terrance Siemon
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FIRST LIGHT
WHY DO YO U LOV E ADVENTURE? IS I T TH E EXC I T EM EN T ? TH E TH R I LL? O R IS I T HEA LI N G , G O O D M ED I C I N E?
W
e think adventure means progress: The progress of opening your mind with an inquisitive nature. It brings curiosity of what’s around the next corner, the excitement of tasting that unusual dish, and the brazen thought of unplugging for weeks on end. It stimulates the vitality to see what it’s like down that canyon, hear the quiet sounds of the woods at night, see where that trail leads and breathe the cold air at dawn. Adventure doesn’t have to be hard. You don’t have to faint at the end. It can be just as much about sitting still as it is about a contest. And you certainly don’t need to hashtag it. That digital scrapbook is all good, but getting a million likes on InstaTweet-My-Face isn’t what adventure is about. In fact, things just may be quite the contrary. Keep the good stuff for yourself. What we love seeing are the people who find their own adventure and make it magical. People who do it for the right reasons: The simple love of it. People like you. We’re proud to bring you the stories in these pages, and we hope you enjoy them as much as we like sharing them. From remote chasms in Utah’s North Wash, to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, we cover a lot of ground in this issue. We strive to understand the Rio Grande River from a Native perspective in Taos and bask in the opportunity to share the trail with an icon. Loving the outdoors isn’t about showing off from the outside. It’s about shining from within. That’s why we love adventure, because for a little while, maybe just a second or two (and most of the time when no one is looking) we feel more alive than any other moment in time. Like the stars aligned for that very instance. Then we get to go home and share it with the ones we love. Hashtag that. Adventure Pro. For the adventurer in all of us.
Photo by Bryan Bagdol
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ROCKY MOUNTAIN DANK SOME OF COLORADO’S BEST BACKCOUNTRY ACCESS JUST GOT BETTER. This is living. Red Mountain Alpine Lodge, a full service mountain refuge will open to backcountry users this winter, sleeping 18-20 peeps, with private rooms available, breakfast, après soups appetizers and full gourmet dinners. It’s no secret this is smack dab in the middle of some of the best backcountry touring in the state. Located just north of the Red Mountain Pass summit, 11,018 feet up in the San Juan Mountains, the lodge sits 300 yards off U.S. Highway 550, aka The Million Dollar Highway, in immediate proximity to tons of backcountry access and conveniently set between the towns of Ouray and Silverton, Colorado.
Warm up at the bar/tavern or in one of the three showers. There’s actually running water, flushing toilets, a wood-burning sauna, in-floor heat, WiFi and a large area to unwind after a day in the spectacular San Juan Mountains. The building was constructed of Douglas Fir using 19th Century tools. Owner of acclaimed San Juan Mountain Guides, Nate Disser and wife, ultra-runner Keaton Disser, fell in love with the San Juans, not only for the beauty of the landscape but the overwhelming skiing and consistency of snow. “We love to entertain and wanted to share the San Juan experience with other likeminded backcountry enthusiasts throughout the year.”
OPEN DECEMBER 21 RED
MOUNTAIN A L P I N E
L O D G E
Photos: Liam Doran
Backcountry Elevated. Come SKI & STAY. Packages from as low as $134/night including dinner & breakfast PLUS world-class backcountry skiing on Red Mountain Pass. Guided trips and packages are also available with The Local Experts.
BOOK YOUR EPIC WINTER EXPERIENCE NOW.
866-315-2361 • 11,000’ Red Mountain Pass • redmountainalpinelodge.com F A L L 2 0 1 8
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GET IN. GET FIT.
durango urgent care LocaLLy owned & operated
Strength and fitness classes help you send your outside projects. Fitness classes at the Rock Lounge Tuesday: Fitness Class 6:15-7:15 AM Wednesday: Climbing Strength 6:15-7:15 AM Adult Movement Class 6:00-7:30 PM Thursday: Fitness Class 6:15-7:15 AM
Check out www.rockloungeclimbing.com or call 970-764-4505 111 E 30th St · Durango, CO 81301
ADVENTURE PRONE? ACCIDENTS HAPPEN!
ACCESSIBLE, QUALITY, AFFORDABLE
HEALTHCARE FOR NON-LIFE THREATENING EMERGENCIES
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Roof top dining · Inquire about private parties Award-winning wine list · Delicious local cuisine
1st Place Best Happy Hour 2nd Place Best Restaurant 2nd Place Best Fine Dining 2nd Place Best Romantic Dining 3rd Place Best Cocktails 3rd Place Best Sushi 3rd Place Best Service
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From farm to table and from vine to wine, Eolus Bar & Dining offers something for everyone. The local bounty shines through as the restaurant features an array of local products from farms, ranches, vineyards and breweries around southwest Colorado. Our covered rooftop patio is a distinct place to enjoy the cuisine, providing ample protection from the elements while offering premium views of the surrounding mountains. Our elegant dining room provides a choice of tables or booths to relax and sample creative concoctions from the bar. Happy Hour 5pm-6pm Nightly 919 Main Ave, Durango CO | www.eolusdurango.com | (970) 259-2898 Open 5pm–9pm | Reservations recommended
CONTRIBUTORS MARGARET HEDDERMAN MATT SLOAN
DISCONNECTED
Matt is a professional filmmaker and avid outdoor enthusiast. Combining these passions, he has filmed for Discovery Channel, National Geographic, Travel Channel and more. When he’s not behind a camera, you’re likely to find him ripping singletrack, paddling whitewater, or road-tripping in his custom van named Frank. Unplug with Sloan as he takes us on a stunning journey into one of the most fascinating places on Earth: the Grand Canyon See more of Matt’s work on Instagram at @urbanforestmedia
THE GREEN CHILE HIGHWAY Margaret Hedderman is an essayist, runner, marketing and events manager, climber, screenwriter, backpacker, and an avid believer in color-coding everything. Her weekly calendar is time-blocked with blue, red, purple, orange, and pink. The blank wall in her bedroom is decorated with a neon storyboard, organized neatly into a three-act structure. She also likes spreadsheets and to-do lists. Margaret recently received her masters in Creative Non-Fiction and is a Film Independent Screenwriting Lab Fellow. She lives in Durango, Colorado.
MORGAN SJOGREN
ESCALANTE/ GRAND STAIRCASE NATIONAL MONUMENT
Morgan (“Mo”) Sjogren runs wild with words anywhere she can get to with two feet and a pen. A passionate activist for public lands, Morgan is currently crawling around the desert of southern Utah with Michael Versteeg “guidebooking” (verb: running/hiking while charting writing, photographing, mapping) to complete their upcoming book, “The Best Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument Hikes” set for release February 2019 (Colorado Mountain Club/The Mountaineers). Join Morgan for a first-hand glimpse of one of the most unrevealed treasures of the Southwest. Follow her adventures on Instagram at @running_bum_
HEATH C. SCOTT
PACING A LEGEND
Scott grew up surfing and kayaking in Virginia Beach, Virginia, and spent most of his career teaching American literature. However, after moving to Grand Junction in 2013 he realized Colorado was home. Trading surfboards for running shoes, he fell in love with exploring wild places on foot and now prefers being above tree line. He recently relocated to Durango, and can usually be found exploring the mountains and deserts of Colorado and Utah with a book, but no map in hand. Scott shows you what it’s like to pace an ultra-running athlete in one of the most notorious ultra-marathon runs in the world, The Hardrock 100. Read more from Heath at www.SurfandAdventure.com
MORGAN TILTON
UNIVERSAL FLOW
Morgan Tilton is a writer with a passion for adventure and outdoor industry news. In three years, her travel stories received eight awards from the North American Travel Journalists Association, including multiple recognition for, “Wild & Broken: A First SUP Descent of Utah’s Escalante River,” featured in the December 2016 SUP Magazine issue. Raised in Southwest Colorado, she is fueled by mountains and all four seasons—and can handle a fair pummel on a surfboard, as long as there’s glorious sand and fresh mangos to heal the wounds. When she’s not at her laptop, you can catch her trail running, mountain biking, hiking, SUPing—and, really, anything outdoors. In this issue, Morgan takes us to the Rio Grande outside Taos, New Mexico, to show us how one family has made the river their source of everything. Catch Morgan at @motilton and follow her writing at www.morgantilton.com.
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M O U N TA I N V I TA L S
FROM THE VAULT The mountains, deserts, even buildings of the Old West harbor some of America’s most colorful and disturbing stories. From Wyatt Earp to the Grateful Dead to a miner who ate his cohorts, let’s look into the past, have a little fun, a get a little creeped out.
John Wesley Powell EARLY RIVER RAT AND BEARDED HIPSTER One of America’s first river rats, John Wesley Powell was a professor, geologist and soldier. In his youth he rowed the Ohio, Mississippi, Illinois and Des Moines Rivers, but later in his life he carved his name in American history for his ambitious expeditions of the Green and Colorado rivers, just after becoming the first Anglo to climb Longs Peak in 1868. His initial 10-month river expedition lead to another, and Powell’s accounts of those experiences collected in his book, Exploration of the Canyons of the Colorado, are still printed today. Powell was an early voice for water and environmental issues and had great interest in the ethnology of the West.
Everett Ruess #MULELIFE
Grateful Digs IN THE DARK, 1989 The Grateful Dead stayed at the Historic Weisbaden Hotsprings Spa and Lodgings in Ouray, Colorado, while they played in Telluride Town Park in 1989 and somehow stayed incognito. According to Linda Wright, who owned the spa when the band was there, they reserved a front row seat for her at the show for helping maintain their anonymity.
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Ruess holds a special place in Southwest history, and his story has become embedded as one of the greatest unsolved mysteries in Western lore. A 20-year-old imaginative son of well-to-do parents, Ruess longed for exploration and open sky. He left home in California and found splendor in the Sierras and then in the canyons and deserts of Utah and Arizona, venturing briefly into Colorado and New Mexico. Then, no one really knows for sure what happened to this artistic vagabond. In 1935, his burros were found near the Escalante River in southern Utah. Did he elope to Mexico? Was he killed by bandits? Did he simply fall and his remains reclaimed by natural elements? Traces of his wanderings are still occasionally found, and his signature “Nemo” can still be seen in at least one treasured location. Befriending a colorful cast of characters along his journeys with a knack for talking his way to their dinner table, what is most striking about Ruess is his contentment with solitude and pursuit of roaming into vast and unfamiliar and often dangerous - territory. Along with a poodle, a notebook and a mule or two, he traveled through some of the greatest and, at the time, uncharted terrain in America.
Tastes like chicken THE BIZARRE STORY OF ALFRED PACKER, WITH CAMEO APPEARANCES FROM PEACE KEEPING CHIEF OURAY AND THE PATHFINDER OF THE SAN JUANS, OTTO MEARS. Alfred Griner Packer was a prospector near Provo, Utah, in 1873 who set out to find gold in Breckenridge, Colorado, with a party of 21 men. Slowing down outside Montrose, Colorado, due to hazardous weather conditions looming in the San Juan Mountains, the party came into contact with the distinguished Chief Ouray, a chief of the Ute Tribe noted for his kindness and hospitality. Ouray offered to host the party until winter passed, but that wouldn’t do for Packer and five others so they set out on their own. Three months later Packer turned up alone near Gunnison, Colorado, far shy of the team’s original destination. When he met up with a fellow prospector from the original Provo party, he began to weave tales of being broke and left for dead, a victim of abandonment. He then began to spend money freely and was found in possession of items belonging to still-missing members of his party. He even went shopping at a store owned by Otto Mears (a man known to this day as the Pathfinder of the San Juans for finding passages through Colorado’s most impenetrable territory, like the San Juan Mountains).
When the jig was up, Packer was finally confronted and he shared a tale of hardship, murder and cannibalism beginning 10 days after the five men left their camp in Montrose. According to his account, members of the party were murdered, and he survived by self-defense. Packer agreed to lead a party to the site of his account, but he ended up getting the team lost. After attacking an officer. he was jailed briefly but escaped to Wyoming where he was discovered 10 years later. Detained, he tried to change his story but was incarcerated for murder and sentenced to death. Then the Colorado Supreme Court reversed the decision and instead Packer was sentenced to 40 years in jail. Paroled in 1901, he worked as security for the Denver Post, reportedly becoming a vegetarian before his death at age 65. Three forensic studies in 1989, 1994 and 2001 lean to support Packer’s original story, but what really happened may never be known. A memorial stands in place at the location of events in Lake City, Colorado.
Wyatt Earp THE MAN, THE MUSTACHE, THE LEGEND. Lawman, card dealer and wagoneer Wyatt Earp is best known for the gunfight at the OK Corral ( a 30-second shootout in Tombstone, Arizona, and subject of at least six movies). What some don’t know is he had a stint in Silverton, Colorado, the small town tucked away in the San Juan Mountains 50 miles north of Durango. Earp showed up in 1883, two years after the famed ordeal in Arizona. While in Silverton, he was known to spend time at what is now the Grand Imperial Hotel, but he also dealt cards at the old Arlington Saloon.
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GEAR BIN
WHAT YO U N EE D TO GET O U T
OSPREY ARIEL AG 65 Take your weekend warrior backpacking trips to the next level with the women’s Osprey Ariel AG 65. With smart design and clever compression, access and customization, this tough-natured pack will get you and all of your gear ready for your next adventure. If you’re an ultralight hiker, this might not the bag for you. At 5-plus pounds for the medium, it’s a little on the heavier side. But for rugged do-anything, go-anywhere backpacking getaways, this bag can take anything you dish out. It’s super sturdy and highly customizable. The first time we slung this pack on, we were surprised with how comfortable the pack was from the get-go, despite its heavy load. Both the IsoForm5 harness and hipbelt are easy to adjust, providing a more secure fit and less fatigue in the long run. Custom heat molding in the hipbelt can provide a coveted personalized fit. A pocket on each side of the belt, one zippered and one drawstring, allows for easy access to snacks and electronics without having to stop to take the pack off and start rooting through stuff. Always thinking ahead, Osprey made the pack’s lid removable, and it can be used separately for smaller excursions out of basecamp so you’re stuck with hauling heavy loads. Speaking of heavy loads, with a volume of 65 liters this pack is a beast. Not only did it fit all of our camping essentials (tent, sleeping bag, etc.), it was also volunteered to help carry a good portion of our group’s climbing gear, without sacrificing comfort. We even had a little room left over to store our water in the internal hydration reservoir sleeve, making it easy to stay hydrated on the move.
390
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Photos by Tiona Eversole
FOR MORE ON GEAR VISIT
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PATA G O N I A M I C R O P U F F JAC K E T
HOKA ONE ONE TORRENT W ID E FIT, R E SPON S I V E CU S H M E E TS HA R DY SAWTO OTH G R I P
A L I GH T P UFFY JAC KET FO R E V ERY MO N TH O F T H E YEA R
Hoka One One is all about the ride. Soft and marshmallowy, they have built their brand on maximal plushness. Not everyone loves the height and gushiness of the Hoka dynasty and their general wellknown narrow fit, but the Torrent might help bridge the gap between devoted followers and naysayers. Hokas are built with a rocker shape, coined Meta Rocker: Think rocker camber on a ski or snowboard. The toe and heel ramp up. While running, the toe – what runners call the toe off - leaves the ground in a natural motion and the heel lands just the same. And speaking of toes, this shoe has plenty of room
We’ve had our share of puffy jackets in our day. Down or synthetic, light or heavy, you name it. But we’ve never had one like this. This is a jacket for every month of the year. It’s no secret: Patagonia isn’t cheap. It’s also no secret that the company is a fierce advocate of public lands, environmentalism, recycling, humanitarianism, fair trade and corporate responsibility (see Black Friday 2016 when the company donated 100 percent of its sales to grass-roots environmental efforts, to the tune of $10 million). So, knowing your dollars are being used to support a good cause, or several, helps ease the sting a bit. The rest of the sting is stifled when the product works better than expected. At 11 ounces, the Patagonia Micro Puff is possibly the warmest jacket for its weight. It’s puffy and cozy and noticeably tough. The secret is under the burly Pertex durable water-resistant shell: A synthetic fill they call PlumaFill mimics the shape and thermal properties of natural down. Instead of using long baffles stuffed with insulation, it’s quilted, like your grandmother’s blanket.
Photo by Bee Mathis
You can stuff it in its own pocket, and being a synthetic, it works just as well when soaked should you get wet like that time you were stuck belaying your partner forever while she was stuck climbing ice and then it started raining … in January. But this is not just a winter piece. Trail race packet pick-ups on frigid spring mornings in the desert, 30-degree camper trailers with no heat, summer dawn rendezvous at 11,000 feet – it’s all good. Stuff it in your climbing kit this fall when 60-degree days turn to 40-degree nights. It is flawless under an outer layer for 9-degree first chairs at Wolf Creek with 20 mile-per-hour winds. Oh, and it’s just right for chilly nights downtown.
in the toe box, somewhat different for the brand. The Torrent, a brawny-looking shoe with race-light chops, has an added feature some might call an advantage: The brand’s Profly technology – the midsole of the heel is softer than the toe, so you get spring and energetic toe-offs and heavenly bread loaf landings. While we’re not pros and we sure don’t fly over the trails, it does agree with us. With a seamless mesh upper (that might let desert sand pour in) there’s a nice protective overlay wrapped around the lower upper. It’s fast and lively, and simply downright fun. Put all that on a wicked set of aggressive multi-directional lugs with vice-grip tenacity, and it’s all a boost of confidence, pro or not, although we did see some early signs of lugs tearing. The lightweight of the shoe (our size eights were 9 ounces each) and the brand’s bucket seat, wrap-type fit they call Active Foot Frame meant we laced up and forgot about it on the gnarliest trails we could find. Photo by Brandon Mathis
120
229
$
$
INDOSOLE
GOODR SHADES
HIP, AFFORDABLE FOOTWEAR SAVED FROM THE LANDFILL
SU PE R FLY S H AD E S O N TH E CH E AP
IndoSole Founder and CEO Kyle Parsons made a blatant statement during a 2016 TEDx talk he gave in a completely recycled wardrobe. He donned eyewear made from recycled baseball bats, pants made from hemp, a shirt made from plastic and a belt from bicycle inner tubes. It all started on a surf trip. Bali, India, 2004: Parsons buys some cheap sandals made with refuse car tires. Five years later, IndoSole was born. Their model is simple: IndoSole footwear is made in Indonesia. It is a B-Corp Certified company, a global
organization of more than 1,000 companies worldwide that promote healthy and safe working environments. Their practice is sensible: Take rubber from a constant stream of the 1.5 billion tires discarded each year, and put them on the soles of people’s feet. As there is no shortage of tires in the world or Indonesia, nearly 60 percent of them are refused to become factory fuels, harming the already declining air and ground water quality. IndoSole is taking a bite out of the landfill and pollution and creating decent jobs in the process, turning trash into trend. Now, that’s cool. Photo by Brandon Mathis
Goodr Sunglasses was founded on a few observations about active eyewear:
1 Classic style was getting lost in the madness. 2 Eyewear was over-engineered and over-complicated. 3 Too expensive – you paid how much for those rocket launcher space looking things?
120
$
Photo by Terrance Siemon
What they offer are two models, lots of colors, a witty brand presentation and a growing counter culture of patrons. Mix it all up and it takes the edge off all that seriousness of having fun. The best part is you get a nice pair of shades. Most styles come with UV 400 polarized lenses – yes, polarized lenses. And all feature a non-slip, no bounce fit perfect for runners or anyone else who grabs life by the horns. With model names Tangiers Rewards Member and Whiskey Shots with Satin and A Ginger’s Soul, you get the idea that fun comes first at a price that will make you smile. How’s $25 for the OG line and $35 for the updated BFG line. That’s pretty Goodr.
25/35
$
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WHAT YO U N EE D TO GET O U T
GEAR BIN
Photos by Brandon Mathis
ARCANUM SPORTS PERFORMANCE CREAM MOTHER-I N-LAW APPROVED We’ve long heard the benefits of medical cannabinoids for pain and discomfort, but like many others, we’ve kept on pumping NSAIDs – non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs – into our guts and cringing at the thought of what we were doing to our insides. On a whim, we tried Arcanum Sports Performance. Using 100 percent U.S. organic grown hemp from Mary’s Nutritionals in Denver, Colorado, Arcanum has targeted active lifestyles with a heat-activated hemp derivative that contains no THC (the stuff that gets you baked) and packaged it in a variety of deliverable forms that make it easy to use and easy to travel with. Cannabinoids are effective in addressing pain, soreness, muscle tension and even swelling. They are used to address sciatic nerve pain, arthritis, multiple sclerosis – the list goes on. While it might be new to some, people have been using hemp to treat pain since 2,900 B.C. Modern research indicates that CBD receptors, part of a larger endocannabinoid system in our bodies, are found throughout all of our major organs. Baked or not, your body produces cannabinoids naturally and products like Arcanum allow you to boost the effects of those cannabinoids to provide relief. The brand Arcanum is taking a step toward athletes and outdoors enthusiasts, corroborating the benefits of a CBD use in sports recovery. For us, all it took was a repeat offender-sore ankle. We rubbed in a small amount of Arcanum Sarco Freeze, and we were impressed. Our ankle wasn’t cured by any means, but the relief was surprising. Adding to that, even our mother-in-law agreed. A small dab on her arthritic finger and the relief made her a believer. How can you argue with that? ARCANUM SARCO FREEZE 4.2 OUNCES
SIERRA DESIGNS FLEX SUMMIT G O F O R TH E S U M M I T O R G O F O R LU NCH
32
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FOR MORE ON GEAR, VISIT
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F O R S A K E PAT C H SUMMIT TO SATURDAY NIGHT – THIS SHOE KNOWS HOW TO PARTY
149
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One of our staffers kept raving about her Forsake Patches, so we had to take a look. We knew we liked this brand. Long story short, a couple of ski bum buddies from the East Coast found themselves trying to figure out how to make a living doing what they loved out West. Noticing their ill-equipped footwear after days on the slopes while trekking through sloppy parking lots and winter conditions, they had an idea: a casual looking shoe with a tough personality. What we found from Forsake was a sturdy shoe that had all the chops of a mountain savvy hiker but with tons of style and finesse. Using what Forsake calls Hydro Guard, the shoe is waterproof, and we knew that from testing some of the first models they ever released. An effective membrane seals elements out – even around the shoe laces – making this a fearless for outdoor events, rambles through any season or twostepping around the bar. Mix a nice leather waterproof upper, comfortable EVA mid-sole and a grippy outsole underneath with a summit-to-Saturday night vibe, this is truly a do-it-all shoe for a do-it-all kind of lady.
We like little gear goodies that pack a big punch. The Sierra Designs Flex Summit is a lightweight daypack that could be as satisfied on an office chair downtown as it is on a summit in the Rockies. Made from 210 denier nylon, it’s not overkill and not too flimsy. At 11.7 ounces, it’s light enough for the actual summit push, when savvy mountaineers ditch all the heavy stuff and take only the necessities. Or, it’s stash-able enough to get shoved out of the way in a drawer at work, or even another backpack. A big mouth U-shaped zipper top makes it easy to just stuff and go, and there’s a convenient zipper pocket on the lid plus a hydration bladder sleeve that will work with most bladders on the market. There’s a removable waist belt, and two side-stash mesh pockets perfect for stowing gloves, headlamps, hats, burritos, beers and swag from events. The back panel is a nice mesh meant to breathe well, but our favorite feature, other than the vibrant colorway, is the flexibility of the Flex Summit’s size. With a few pulls of a few straps it goes from an 18-liter to a 23-liter capacity and back. It might not sound like much, but when you need to cinch it down for the crux, it’s perfect. And when you need a little more room for that puffy or bag of laundry, it’s there.
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BEAR BALM M A K E YOU R D RY, ITC HY, IR R I TATE D S K I N … B E AR AB L E Inspired by and made with all natural ingredients brought to you by Mother Nature, Bear Balm is a natural and organic solution for some of life’s itchiest problems. Kimberly George of Durango, Colorado, has been making her own natural products and selling them at farmers markets for years, but when she developed a multi-use balm for life’s uncomfortable moments, she found something that stood out. “When I looked at the 24 different products I was making, this was the one that I loved, and this is the one I wanted to continue with,” George said. Always wanting to develop Bear Balm, the 416 Fire of summer 2018 in Durango, Colorado, took its toll on the George’s farm. A new project just felt right, George said. 4-OUNCES
“This was the time to do something different,” she said. So Bear Balm came out of hibernation. It’s a simple mixture of what must be the perfect blend of lavender, comfrey, calendula, bee’s wax and olive oil. Anything that George doesn’t grow herself, she sources organically. Our jar sat waiting until a brutally hot-cold, sweaty, freezing trail run when our legs chaffed so bad we could hardly walk. A smear of Bear Balm and we found relief. Salve-vation. Now we keep it handy. People love Bear Balm for dry skin, chapped lips, climbing hands, bug bites, cuts and sunburns, chaffing, scratches, saddle sore, eczema – and even healing surgery incisions and sores from radiation treatments. Oh, and there’s a baby balm for the little ones. It’s perfect for diaper rash.
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B A C K P A C K I N G F O O D S E AT IN G OU T N E V E R TAST E D S O G O O D We were done. Smoked. Caput after a day fastpacking through a remote 1 The menu: Forget mac and cheese (or 2 Options: Organic, gluten-free, even 3 Ease: Most of the meals we like take a cup desert canyon system that essentially became a choose-your-own-adventure trail marathon. A massive serving of lasagna from a bag seemed out of place, but it was simply heaven sent. We’ve tried a growing list of backpacking foods, and our take is they are breaking out of the mold. Marketed for emergency meals, camp, travel and just simple-to-make pack lunches, it’s worth a look at what’s out there today. Here are how things are different.
don’t; it’s still here and we still love it) but the rules have changed. If you can boil water you can eat lasagna, pad Thai, fettuccini Alfredo, chicken gumbo, curry and quinoa, to name a few. There are even selections for every meal of the day plus dessert, dips, smoothies and snacks.
vegan? You’re all set. Most dietary restrictions are easy to work with in today’s market, and the deciding factor is largely going to come down to what’s available at your local outfitter and cost. You can expect to pay anything from $6 to $12 for around 300 calories or more per serving or meal, depending on the brand.
B ACKPACK E R’ S PA NTRY C HI C K E N C ASHEW CURRY
or so of boiling water. Add that to the package they come in, seal it up and do something else for 15 to 20 minutes while they rehydrate.
G O O D TO -G O PAD T H AI Our favorite. This is the closest thing to gourmet dehydrated we’ve seen, and better than dishes we’ve sat down and ordered. Gluten-free and pescatarian (those who eat fish, but not meat), with a wild American shrimp sauce, it comes with the peanuts in their own little bag so they’re perfect when you add them. One serving at 460 calories. Made in Maine.
These guys have been around since 1951, so they know a thing or two about freeze-dried and rehydrated foods. If you put this rice dish on a plate with chopsticks, you’d pay full price and then tip your server. Two servings at 290 calories each. Made in Colorado.
AL P I NE A I R E : V E GE TA R IA N LE ON A R D O FE T T U CC IN E We typically don’t go for creamy pasta dishes, but 30 miles into the desert and we devour it. Savory cheese, broccoli, mushrooms and garliclathered noodles. Two servings at 330 calories each. Made in the USA.
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These are tall bags. Use a long-handled spoon/spork, good for digging deep and stirring the meals to avoid un-rehydrated mouthfuls at the bottom. We like to use the stout empty zip lock container for garbage if we’re on the move. F A L L 2 0 1 8
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ALLURE UNKNOWN OF THE
Dropping into Utah’s North Wash In the upper reaches of southeast Utah, boundless and twisted slot canyons slice across the landscape cut by eons of wind, water and gravity. It’s an unusual, inhospitable world – all the more reason a certain type of person is drawn to it. BY
B R A N D O N M AT H I S
PHOTOS BY TERRANCE SIEMON 18 |
A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
“Rescues are common. Heat can be a serious issue. A little foresight and training can help you avoid all that.” -christopher hagedorn get in the wild adventures
They call themselves canyoneers: Part climber, part explorer and part problem-solver. The worlds they seek are unlike any other. “They are some of the most beautiful canyons of Navajo sandstone in the world,” said Christopher Hagedorn, founder and lead guide with Get in the Wild Adventures, which offers guided trips and educational courses from remote nooks of Utah to the glaciers of Washington’s Cascade Mountains. With 25 years experience, one glimpse of his group tells Hagedorn how the day is going to go. But there is a lot of opportunity for every level of challenge.
rappelling. You should have experience with rope management and rock climbing gear, and don’t mind dropping into ice cold water, navigating inexplicable sandstone environments and meeting impasses that can – and will – stop you in your tracks.
MISUNDERSTOOD “Most people have no idea what I’m talking about,” said Mark Oppegard, canyoneer and IT manager from Denver who has been exploring the North Wash and nearby areas for two decades. “I don’t think they have any idea what goes into it and all the different things you’re going to run into.” Canyoneers squeeze into deep, breath-clutching slot canyons, often trying to avoid getting stuck while navigating slides, mud pits, pools and debris. Canyon walls close in overhead, sealing out the light. Prepare for hiking, swimming, down climbing and
ALLURE OF THE UNKNOWN With names like Monkey Business, Hogwartz, Sandthrax and Slidninide, you get the idea that these excursions are going to be interesting. “To be able to work your way down into these passages where few human beings have been before, it’s an incredible adventure,” Hagedorn said. “It’s the allure of the unknown. For some people it helps them in regards to personal growth. They think, ‘Wow, I can actually make it through this. It makes other things I do in life look pretty simple.’”
DO YOUR HOMEWORK Hagedorn said it’s wise to start out with a guide, or at least someone who possesses strong canyoneering skills and knows the area. “Rescues are common,” he said. “Heat can be a serious issue. A little foresight and training can help you avoid all that.”
TO SEE THE VIDEO VISIT
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SERENDIPITY COLORADO’S CLASSIC CREST Known for endless views and long sections of butter smooth singletrack, the Monarch Crest Trail is iconic Colorado mountain biking. The classic route takes riders from the top of 11,400-foot Monarch Pass outside of Salida, Colorado, and mixes dense pine forest and aspen groves with some of the state’s most exquisite high-country terrain. The Monarch Crest, as it is known, is actually a combination of The Monarch Crest Trail, The Colorado Trail, the Continental Divide Trail and the Rainbow Trail, and can be completed in a number of variations. The true 40-mile Crest Classic begins at Monarch Pass and drops 4,200 feet to the town of Salida. Photos by Terrance Siemon
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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
OURAY, CO December 28 - January 1 : Mixed Climbing January 11-13 : Ice Park 2 Days January 14-19 : Ice Park 3 Days January 20-24 : Ice Park 4 Days January 24 : Avalanche Ed for Ice Climbers at the Ouray Ice Festival BACKCOUNTRY ICE February 2-6 : Cody, Wyoming February 18-24 : Westfjords, Iceland
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CELEBRATING
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ICE 2018-2019
TRAIL SPURS
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HOUND i roll over to silence the alarm next to my bed. It’s 6 a.m. The scruffy face of my dog, Sgt. Pepper, is staring into my sleepy eyes, anxiously awaiting our next big outing. Somehow, he can always tell when we’re doing something big that day. Maybe it’s because he watched me pack up the night before. Or maybe it’s his doggie senses tingling. Whatever the case, he’s ready to go the moment I slide his bandana over his head and open the front door. Sgt. Pepper is now 11. And while he is my favorite adventure buddy, raising an adventure-driven pup was not an easy task and took some time. Dogs need to learn specific skills, be in good shape and sometimes require their own personal gear. Let’s take a look at what it takes to raise an adventure dog.
Photo by Terrance Siemon
TRAINING
Make sure that you pack enough water for both you and your dog, especially when going to places that don’t offer access to water along the way. Don’t forget to bring a If you are raising your dog from a puppy, it’s important to get them started doing the water bowl for your pup as well. We like the collapsible options that you can find at pet activities you want them to partake in right away. stores to save room in our packs. “One of the biggest things is taking the time to train your dog appropriately,” said Keep an eye on your dog’s energy levels as well, especially when they start to get Amber Pickren, owner of Gentle Canine in Durango, Colorado. “Go at their pace, and older. Common signs of fatigue include heavy panting, slowing of pace and vomiting. don’t risk failure just for your fun.” Some symptoms aren’t as immediate. If you get home and your pup is limping and Gentle Canine offers a wilderness therapy class, which covers foundational, outdoor, sore, then take it as a sign to lower the mileage or level of intensity the next time you and therapy dog skillsets, and runs for six weeks. A CGC (Canine Good Citizen) class is go out. required prior to enrolling in this program. They also offer private lessons that focus Make sure that the terrain your dog is running through specifically on the skillset you want your dog to acquire, whether it’s is not going to hurt their paws. For example, mountain improving your dog’s trail etiquette while hiking or biking, or training them biking on slickrock over a long period of time is extremely to stay calm on a stand-up paddleboard. abrasive on a dog’s pads, and trekking through snow and The outdoor activities that you do in will determine what kind of Sgt. Pepper ready for an adventure. Photo by Tiona Eversole ice can lead to frostbite. training your dog will need. For example, swim lessons BY TIONA EVERSOLE GEARING UP are a good idea if you’re an When packing up, don’t forget your dog’s necessities avid rafter or like to get out either. Pack extra water. For longer trips, don’t forget to on the SUP. If you plan to take your pup on hikes, runs or bike rides, then bring their food and snacks. I also like to bring my dog’s “It’s a learning training them to stay close by or follow the bike is beneficial. extra bed for camping trips to keep him closer to camp. “Conditioning is huge,” said Pickren. “That’s the only way you’re going experience for them For hikes and runs, bring a leash. Even if you don’t think amber pickren to get good endurance with your animals – whether it’s running or biking too. They don’t know you’ll use it, you never know when you might need a leash, or hiking they have to be conditioned to do it.” and it’s better to be safe than sorry. what a tent is, or If you are planning on longer treks over rough terrain, OUTDOOR SAFETY what all of these you can try a pair of dog booties. These don’t work for every dog, as some have a Getting out in the backcountry always presents a certain level of risk. Adding your weird things are that difficult time getting used to them; but if you’re set on bringing your dog on these trips, dog to the mix means that you must watch out for their safety as well. If training your you’re bringing out they are a good investment. dog from puppy age, make sure that your pup is properly vaccinated before taking If your dog is hitting the river or lake with you, a puppy PFD is very important. And of them out. around them.” course, bring a bone or some toys for your dog to play with that will keep them happy “Once they’re vaccinated, we always stress teaching them a skillset that they can -kayla schultz during downtime. perform,” Pickren said.
“It’s all about engagement and proper training.” -
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A LT I T U D E Photo by Aaron Tuleja
Photo by Gloryann Linch
Photo by Nola Svoboda
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A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
Photo by Nola Svoboda
Photo by Pete Hardie
ADJUSTMENT Photo by Jules Vogel
Photo by Mike Remke
YOU C R USH IT! We love it when our readers share their adventure with us. For a chance to be featured in Adventure Pro Magazine, send your adventure photos to editor@adventurepro.us
Photo by Matt Larsen
Photo by Sara Vogt
Photo by Jules Vogel
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G R A N D
S T A I R C A S E
ESCALANTE STORY
AN D
PH OTOS
BY
M O R G A N
he original Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument was a 1.88 million acre parcel of wilderness designated in 1996 for its promising scientific and cultural research. The monument encompasses some of the most geologically diverse landscapes in the world. In 2017 it was reduced by nearly half its size. Adventure writer, runner and guidebook author Morgan Sjogren invites you to become part of this wild landscape, with a step-by-step guide. Want to protect this vast desert paradise? Go exploring it. It’s waiting for you.
S JO G REN
BLM Ranger Stations, permits and information are available in Escalante, Kanab, Big Water, Cannonville and Page. Most trailheads offer on-site permits. SCENIC BYWAY 12
BUC KSK IN
GU LC H
DRIVE Cottonwood Canyon Road bisects the lower portion of the Monument from Cannonville to due east of Kanab. The colorful rock formations and winding road along the Cock’s Comb (a beautiful stone monocline that runs the length of the road) make this worth taking just for a scenic drive. Those who venture out of the car, however, will be rewarded.
HIKE
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GRAND STA IR C AS E
Trailheads but it’s worth it for a hike more jammed with narrow rock walls, pools of water, petroglyphs and more rock jams than any other place you’ll encounter. Yellow Rock: Don’t let the one mile approach fool you – it’s steep and requires route finding to get there. Those who accept the challenge are compensated with a massive colorful rock formation that will keep your attention for hours. And that’s if you are able to resist the distracting panoramic views of the entire region.
EAT Rocking V Café offers fun and lively upscale American dining with fun in an artsy setting. Specials include enchiladas touted as a “Grand Staircase of Flavor” and a fish of the day (very rare in these parts).
US ROUTE 89
KANAB
PAG E
Buckskin Gulch/Paria Narrows: Hiking the longest slot canyon in the Southwest (16 miles) makes an excellent two-day backpacking trip or long run when combined with the Paria Canyon Narrows (24 miles). You’ll need a car shuttle at the Wire Pass and White House
KANAB
A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
DRIVE Smokey Mountain Road is 78 miles long and traverses the most remote area of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument known as the Kaiparowits Plateau. Beginning at the upper elevations outside the town of Escalante, this true 4x4 route wraps its way around deep canyons before taking a dramatic plunge down the dangerous Kelly Grade. Be sure to stop to check out the Smoking Hills especially in cooler weather when smoke from underground coal fires can be seen rising from the earth.
BOULDER
LOW ER
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DRIVE Originally, cowboys used the Burr Trail to drive cattle from the summer to the winter range. Today it transports tourists and recreationalists from Boulder, Utah all the way to Lake Powell’s shores at Bullfrog Marina. This paved and graded road is 67.4 miles and will take you on a trip of colorful rock formations, side canyons, sweeping vistas, and incredible hikes.
EAT Hell’s Backbone Grill: This establishment is widely known for its local farm-to-table fine dining as much as its involvement in the effort to save Grand Staircase Escalante. Owners Blake Spalding and Jen Castle are outspoken about the need to protect the monument and wrote a cookbook “This Immeasurable Place” as a love letter to Grand Staircase.
HIKE The Gulch is one of the area’s premier hiking destinations. It’s a 12.5-mile route located near Circle Cliffs, which are currently staked out for a future Copper Mine. This area is a very real and current reminder of the shaky ground that Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument’s future sits on. Be sure to sign the trailhead register to leave a record that recreation and protection of this area needs to be prioritized. The BLM factors actual use, factored here by trail registers and permits, into their multi-use management plans.
Burr Trail Outpost: Grab a coffee or butternut squash mango smoothie (yes, really) and some wi-fi here before your adventure. ROADSIDE ATTRACTION Take Scenic Highway 12-aka the Journey Through Time Highway-and stop at Lower Calf Creek Falls to stretch your legs. The parking lot is almost always crowded for the 6-mile round-trip hike to a 126-foot ribbon of water set against colorful moss and water varnished Navajo sandstone. Jump in the pool at the bottom of the falls to cool off before the hike back.
BOULDER ESCALANTE
M O R E F R O M M O R G A N S J O G R E N AT
ESCALANTE CANYO N
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KA IPA ROWITS P LAT EAU
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EAT
Mormon settlers made Hole In The Rock road on an 1880 expedition. When they reached the edge of Glen Canyon, rather than re-route these pioneers chose to blast their way through and charge down on covered wagon. Incredibly, no one died. In that spirit, this road that parallels the Straight Cliffs to the actual is ideal to base your Grand Staircase Escalante adventures. Thirty-plus miles of dirt road are dotted with slot canyons, Escalante River tributaries, delightfully unusual rock formations and water in surprising places.
Escalante Outfitters: Pizza, coffee, cinnamon rolls plus the only fly fishing guide service permitted in the national monument actually does it all. They make their pizzas from scratch with mostly local ingredients, bake massive cinnamon rolls, and keep their coffee bar open all day. The shop offers basic outdoor gear, and the staff is friendly and knowledgeable about the area. Oh, and they even have adorable cabins, tent sites and showers for sweet dreams in town.
HIKE
Devil’s Garden: When you arrive, it’s easy to imagine how kids and plant “enhanced” hippies can spend a full day here. The rock formations are equal parts fairy tale and outer space. In fact, the only hellish thing about this beautiful zone is its exposure to the elements, especially extreme heat and sandy wind storms. Come relaxed and bring your imagination.
Take a day trip into the slot canyons. Zebra, Peek-A-Boo and Spooky are all short hikes that offer big fun. Come prepared to wade trough waist-deep pools of icy water, scramble up moki steps and crawl on all fours.
LAKE P OWE L L
PAGE
D EVI L’S G A RD EN
ROADSIDE ATTRACTION
U TA H ARIZONA
HIKE The Toadstools is a 3-mile stroll (round trip) to some funky, magic mushroom-shaped rock formations located between Page and Kanab on Highway 89.
EAT Visit Paco’s Tacos for your burrito and beer fix. Since Page is the only Grand Staircase Escalante town outside of Utah, you can actually get your sweaty paws on a full-alcohol-by-volume pint. Beer in Utah will be 3.2 or under if you don’t buy it in a liquor store. Paco’s Tacos will hit the spot in both the belly and the wallet. F A L L 2 0 1 8
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THE
GREEN CHILE
HIGHWAY ON THE TRAIL TO DISCOVER THE BEST GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGER IN THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT There is a ghost town clustered around a narrow road in the Ortiz Mountains of New Mexico known almost exclusively for
This is not a claim to be taken lightly. The green chile cheeseburger is to New Mexico as pork ribs and brisket are to Texas. In fact, it is so important the two things: A John Travolta movie and the state tourism department designated an official Green Chile Cheeseburger best green chile cheeseburger in the state. Trail. No, I’m not joking. And yes, I went on a cheeseburger road trip. The Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail isn’t exactly a trail, per se. It’s a collection of restaurants throughout the state that offer burgers of note. And while you’re likely to find a location in most major towns, it is the hole-in-the-wall joints that are really worth visiting. It is a bit like “Choose Your Own Adventure.” If you plan it right, your path will take you through some of the most spectacular scenery in New Mexico and, if you’re so inclined, plenty of outdoor activities to burn off the extra calories.
GREEN CHILE THEORY A green chile cheeseburger in theory isn’t complicated; it’s a burger patty with melted cheese smothered in New Mexico’s signature chile sauce. But capturing that perfect balance between a juicy, well-seasoned burger and the dusky, desert flavor of a spicy - but not too spicy - green chile is harder to achieve.
THE FRONTIER, ALBUQUERQUE
BY
MARGARET
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Of all the burgers we consumed, the ringer wasn’t even on the official trail. My boyfriend can’t go to Albuquerque without stopping by the Frontier Restaurant on Central. Inside the barnstyle building, which occupies half a city block, are numerous portraits of John Wayne, HEDDERMAN kitschy Western decor and enough seating for 300. It’s not just the aesthetics that are reminiscent of vintage Americana; the counter-service format feels like a precursor to today’s fast food establishments. You can just imagine Jack Kerouac sitting in a corner with a slice of pie and coffee. The Frontier’s green chile cheeseburger comes wrapped in wax paper. The sliver of a patty on a thin white bun is unimpressive, but the chunky green chile is packed with heat and a powerful Southwest flavor.
A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
T H E M I N E S H A F T TAV E R N , M A D R I D Which brings me back to the MadChile Burger at the Mine Shaft Tavern. Located in the arid hills south of Santa Fe where turquoise and coal were once mined, is the ghost town turned artist community of Madrid (pronounced MAD-rid). Brightly painted slat wall houses and adobe buildings have been converted into gift shops and art galleries. Roaring motorcycles and sightseers clog the town’s main artery. If you’ve seen the 2007 comedy “Wild Hogs,” you’ll recognize the sights. In the height of summer, this community of 150 is a hub of activity with much of it centered on the Mine Shaft Tavern. Inside, this historic tavern looks much like it did in the 1940s when it catered to local coal miners. There is a stage at the back for live music and framed posters advertising the award-winning burger. With three meat selections, Black Angus chuck, New Mexico wagyu and local yak as well as a veggie option, the Mine Shaft’s burger is already a step above most offerings. However, it’s the green chile that seals the deal. The MadChile Burger is not only slathered with a rich, spicy green chile, it is also capped with an entire deep-fried pepper and a chipotle dijonnaise.
Photo by Rory Chapman
Photo by Margaret Hedderman
T H E S A N TA F E B I T E , S A N TA F E Until dining at the Mine Shaft, I had assumed the Santa Fe Bite’s award-winning green chile cheeseburger was impossible to beat. This Santa Fe institution, formerly known as the Bobcat Bite, recently relocated to a larger downtown location near the Plaza. National newspapers, including The New York Times, have drooled over the Bite’s burger, in part because of the fresh-ground chuck and sirloin patty on a homemade bun. The Santa Fe Bite’s new location is within easy access of the national forest and the ski basin, so arriving hungry shouldn’t be a problem.
Photo by Douglas Merriam Photography
Photo by Margaret Hedderman
It just goes to show that sometimes you have to leave the trail behind to find the best adventures.
RULES OF ENGAGEMENT There are more locations on the Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail than anyone could realistically visit in a single road trip, at least without serious health issues. To test as many restaurants as possible, my boyfriend and I agreed to split a burger at each location. Together, we were able to eat five burgers in less than 36 hours. El Bruno’s Restaurante y Cantina in Cuba is always worth a stop for travelers headed down to Albuquerque and the unassuming El Farolito is a great option for climbers visiting El Rito.
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DISCONNECTED
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21
DAYS BELOW THE RIM
PH OTOGRAP H ER AND VIDEOG RAPHER M ATT S LOAN PLUGS INTO A D EEPER MEANING BY U N PLUGGING F ROM EVERYTHING ELSE. STORY
A N D
PH OTOS
BY
M AT T
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B
arely opening my eyes, I wiped the grit from my face as I finally gave in to the morning light. It was a restless night. Strong winds had been whipping up sand, blasting our riverside camp. It’s day 10, and I’m on a beach one vertical mile below the rim of the Grand Canyon. My tent looked like a dusty attic – everything covered in ultrafine sand, filtered by mesh walls. Normally, finding all my belongings covered in sand would be a bad start to the day, but I can only laugh. If there’s anything I learned on this journey, it’s that sand will always win. Just accept it, laugh and move on. Two months prior to the trip I got a call from Mickey Wilson, a new friend I met after moving to Colorado last fall. He’s a professional slackliner and overall adventure badass. He explained that his wife, Purple, had won a late lottery permit for a private river trip down the Colorado River. When he asked if I wanted to go, I knew I didn’t have an option. As a long time whitewater kayaker, the Grand was a bigticket item on my bucket list, and you don’t pass up on big-ticket items, especially when the universe brings them to you. Fast forward through two months of planning and prepping, and we were in the most magnificent landscape I had ever seen. I was with seven new friends, three rafts and my Dagger Green Boat that’s packed to the brim with camera gear. I didn’t have a phone. I didn’t have an agenda. I thought, I’m here, floating down an emerald river surrounded by towering red cliffs. One of the most exciting aspects of the trip was from Lee’s Ferry, there would be no cell service for 226 miles – 21 days disconnected from the world. The feeling wasn’t immediate; the onset was smooth and slow. Like a fog lifting, all of the distractions of normal life seemed to disappear and the rest of the world came into view. I wasn’t constantly checking my notifications. I wasn’t worrying about work. I wasn’t multitasking or trying to be as efficient as possible. I was focused: Sight, sound and smell.
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DISCONNECTED A photographer by trade, a childlike curiosity drove me to explore and photograph in new ways. I wanted to feel the texture of the rocks, smell the fragrance of the vegetation and feel the cool blue water of Havasu running across my skin. I was there, in the moment, and it had been a long time since I felt that way. Our trip was a more than a rafting trip; this was an adventure by way of raft. With a handful of climbers in the group, and a thick book of canyoneering routes, any downtime from rowing was spent hiking to descend some of the many side canyons. Sometimes they were big, 500 to 1,000 feet across, and bursting with life; they were hidden oases confined by massive desert walls. Sometimes they were no wider than your body, where twisting water carved beautiful architecture into the surrounding stone. Each side canyon had character, and each one was as fascinating as the last. You could spend a lifetime hiking in the Grand and still not see all that it has to offer. It is in the nooks and crannies that this place reveals its beauty. When we pushed off the shore at Lee’s Ferry, some of us had just met. By the time we passed Phantom Ranch at Mile 89, we were great friends. We had spent weeks together with nothing but conversation and exploration to pass the
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time. We learned about one another’s lives and challenged each other to step out of our comfort zones. Exactly zero moments were spent scrolling through Instagram or checking our Strava. While technology has undoubtedly bettered the world, it is hard to recognize what we have lost. The normal after-work mountain bike ride or weekend trip to Moab isn’t what it used to be. Our adventure was not only about the challenge but also about sharing the experience with friends. It was about the connections you make while suffering through the tough climbs together, the stories you share while sitting around the fire, the chance to find commonalities and differences in your lives. It was about the people. Weeks after we de-rigged the rafts and the last remnants of henna faded from my arm, I am still in awe of that beautiful place and the experiences we had there. I constantly remind myself to put down the phone and appreciate everything the present has to offer. I can’t say I don’t Strava my rides or scroll through Instagram, but I strive for more balance and find value in connecting with my friends out on the trail. You might not be doing the Grand, but even for a weekend camping trip or an afternoon hike, try turning off the phone. Disconnect and fully focus on the experience. Share the moment with the people you value most, and you might just find something you’re missing.
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HIT LIST
A R I Z O N A OCTOBER 6-7 Flagstaff SkyPeaks Mountain Runs FLAGSTAFF www.aravaiparunning.com OCTOBER 13-14 Sedona Arts Festival SEDONA https://visitsedona.com/directory/ sedona-arts-festival-festivals-events/ NOVEMBER 3 Arizona Fall Festival PHOENIX www.localfirstaz.com NOVEMBER 17 12 hours of Fury FOUNTAIN HILLS www.4peaksracing.com DECEMBER 1 McDowell Mtn Frenzy FOUNTAIN HILLS www.aravaiparunning.com
C O L O R A D O SEPTEMBER 27-28 Festival of Cars and Colors TELLURIDE w www.carsandcolors.com g SEPTEMBER 29 Ouray Mountain Trail Run OURAY www.ouraytrailrun.org OCTOBER 4-7 Durango Cowboy Poetry Gathering DURANGO www.durangocowboypoetrygathering.org OCTOBER 6-7 Apple Fest CEDAR RIDGE www.cedaredgechamber.com OCTOBER 7 October Fest DURANGO www.oktoberfestdurango.com OCTOBER 12-14 Telluride Horror Show TELLURIDE www.telluridehorrorshow.wixsite.com OCTOBER 13 Durango Double DURANGO www.durangodouble.com
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N E W M E X I C O SEPTEMBER 29 Mt Taylor 50K GRANTS www.mttaylor50k.com OCTOBER 5-7 Top of the World Star Party PIE TOWN www.newmexico.org/event OCTOBER 6 Big Tesuque Trail Run SANTA FE www.bigtesuquetrailrun.blogspot.com
U T A H OCTOBER 5-7 Outerbike MOAB www.outerbike.com OCTOBER 6-13 Redrocks Arts Festival MOAB www.redrockartsfestival.com
OCTOBER 12-13 Taos Story-telling Festival TAOS www.taosstorytellingfestival.com OCTOBER 13 Angel Fire Resort Gravity Games www.angelfireresort.com/ event/gravity-games/ OCTOBER 17-21 Santa Fe Independent Film Festival SANTA FE www.santafeindependentfilmfestival.com
NOVEMBER 3 Moab Trail Marathon MOAB www.moabtrailmarathon.com NOVEMBER 2-4 Moab Folk Festival MOAB https://www.moabfolkfestival.com SEPTEMBER 2-4 Mona Celtic Festival Scots on the Rocks MOAB www.scotsontherocksmoab.com NOVEMBER 17 Dead Horse Ultra MOAB www.redrockartsfestival.com
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KILLER WEEKEND BLUFF You might not think of Bluff, Utah (population 258) as a major destination – and that’s what we love about it. Possibly most familiar as a put-in for any number of incredible San Juan River expeditions, Bluff is also a gateway to some of the Southwest’s most iconic locations, as well as best kept secrets. Monument Valley is 20 miles south, Goosenecks State Park is 25 miles west and Natural Bridges National Monument is 60 miles northwest. But some of your favorite excursions might be those true adventures, when you’re ready for a primitive experience. No signs, no guides and no one around; miles of dirt roads lead to remote trails in some of the most spectacular canyon country in the world. Bring a compass, plenty of water and your thirst for adventure. If you’re looking for a place to chill, head for the Comb Ridge Eat and Drink, or head south for a swinging grill steak at the Mexican Hat Lodge. Check the Bears Ears Education center in Bluff for more information about the area.
DURANGO Ah, Durango. In some ways, it’s the center of the universe. But it is also a place where the co-ed behind the coffee counter can drop you on a mountain bike, the kids climb 5.12 and 70-year-olds pass you running at 12,000 feet. And in autumn it’s perfect. Quiet. Empty. The weather is flawless. The food is good, and there’s no wait for tables. And with four craft brewers in town, each with their own flair, the beer is out of this world. And if we only had one weekend in autumn, we’d spend it all on the trails. Within a 30-mile radius of town, more than 300 miles of singletrack line the surrounding hills and mountains, which means you can get to the trailhead before you finish your mocha latte from Durango Joes. Engineer Mountain Trail: No matter how you approach this trail, it will carry you over mountain singletrack through deep forest and into the alpine. From the north, atop Coal Bank Pass travel 2.5 miles on Pass Creek Trail through dense conifers to an alpine meadow and go for the summit if you’re so inclined. Just use caution – it is a long way down. From the south, just north of Cascade Creek, catch the blazing path through a tunnel of aspen that ascends to the southern flank of the mountain. Short on time? Book a trip with Hermosa Tours. On the right day it might be one of the most remarkable trails you’ve ever seen. Make a pit stop at Serious Texas BBQ in town for cheesy potatoes and a pulled pork sandwich. Or head to Homeslice for a huge slice of pizza and the Holy Goat salad. Photo by Terrance Siemon
FOR MORE KILLER WEEKENDS VISIT
A DV E N T U R E P R O . u s Photo by Brandon Mathis
CORTEZ Cortez has cattle, agriculture and Southwest history; it’s also got some incredible singletrack. It’s just north of Mesa Verde National Park, the only national park dedicated to the works of man with an astounding 4,300-plus documented archaeological sites. And across the highway, there is some of the best mountain biking in the Four Corners. Phil’s World, named after a local legend who etched out some off-road cycling routes amid badlands of moto-scarred gullies and arroyos, is now a nationally recognized and celebrated trail system. With a variety of high desert loops attractive to all skill levels, Phil’s trails wind through pinion and juniper forests and dive in and out of canyons and ravines, making for an often-exhilirating ride.
Photo by Terrance Siemon
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F L A G S TA F F
FA R M I N G T O N
Flagstaff, Arizona, is home to the world’s largest Ponderosa Pine Forest, where the San Francisco peaks will let you play up on the highest point in Arizona year round. (Aaloosaktuki in Hopi and Dook’o’ooslííd in Navajo, Humphrey’s Peak is 12,633 feet.) Enjoy lovely singletrack and fall trail running, mountain biking and hiking before winter sets in and Arizona’s premier ski resort, Arizona Snowbowl, opens. Incredible coffee shops line every street corner: Firecreek and Macy’s are local favorites. Diablo Burger and Pizzicleta have established cult foodie followings. Grab a Tower IPA at Mother Road Brewing next to Pizzacleta.
The largest city in the Four Corners (population 45,000), Farmington, New Mexico, may get more love for its shopping and auto malls than it does for the outdoors, (on any given weekend some 115,000 shoppers flock to the city for goods) but take a closer look. There’s fun in those hills, like the upper portions of the San Juan River and insanely awesome mountain biking at the Road Apple Trail network. These desert landscape trails and river access make Farmington stand on its own, especially when other outdoor locales are cloaked in snow and mud. In fact all of northern New Mexico is a wonderland of natural and historic beauty.
Photo by Terrance Siemon
TELLURIDE
PRESCOTT Tucked in the Williamson Valley and up against the Bradshaw Mountains at 5,000 feet elevation, Prescott, Arizona, is “Everybody’s Hometown” with a charming downtown “Whiskey Row” and endless miles of trails and climbing. The 50-mile circle trail circumnavigates Prescott and is a rite of passage for any visiting or local mountain biker. Granite Mountain offers incredible hiking and trail running, but most notably its superb granite multi-pitch climbing. Check out the Granite Dells and Thumb Butte, which offer more climbing and more trails. After a day playing on the rocks, grab a drink at Superstition Meadery.
Take a week to get out and explore this corner of the Colorado, and you might not want to leave. If you’re looking for a stay that offers the town’s plush vibe, check out The Hotel Telluride: a 59-room down town luxury hotel in the middle of it all, and it’s dog friendly. For those who prefer a tent: Telluride’s Town Park campground is minutes away from all of the in-town action. Sites are on a first-come, first-served basis. When was the last time that you took a gondola to dinner? The free gondola connects town to Mountain Village and the ski area. Get off on the first stop and make your way to Allred’s for stunning mountain views framed by aspens. We suggest getting there in time for sunset. For a quick lunch in town: Taco Del Gnar, aka Gnarly Tacos, just off the main drag, with a unique variety of taco options at an affordable price. We like the Drippy Mitch and Avo. Autumn in Telluride is unforgettable with frosted peaks and blazing colors. Up for a little adventure? Go fly-fishing on the Dolores or San Miguel river, head out mountain biking on the Local’s Loop or Telluride Ski Resort or explore the accessible hiking trails just outside of town, like Bear Creek beginning at Town Park. For the a little more thrill, come prepared of get with San Juan Mountain Guides for the Via Ferrata. This hike-andladder-run assisted climb traverses cliff faces 500 feet above the valley floor near Black Bear Pass.
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M E E T S A R A H S WA L L O W, A BUSINESS OWNER TURNED B I C YC L I N G VAG A B O N D W H O TRADED HER LIFE ON THE TOWN FOR A LIFE ON THE ROAD.
T H E
A D V E N T U R E
CYCLIST PH OTOS
“Don’t rush it. Take a lot of breaks, go for mid-ride hikes and swims, explore and take pictures.”
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AN D
STO RY
In 2015, I needed to make a change in my life; so I closed my bicycle shop in Loveland, Ohio, moved out of my house and embarked on a 5,000 mile bike ride across the United States, all on dirt roads. If that wasn’t a change, I don’t know what is. The route I followed is called the Trans-America Trail, or TAT, and is traditionally traveled by dual-sport motorcycles. It was a light-hearted catharsis that put me on a new path, one I would make on my own, and one that certainly would change my life. I realized on my TAT adventure that I would rather live to be free than work to live. I wanted to continue to travel and share my experiences from the road through photos, stories and bike routes, so I kept riding and living nomadically. To say the least, for me it’s pretty awesome.
BY
SA RA H
SWA LLOW
For the past three years I have ridden my bicycle and camped over tens of thousands of miles of dirt roads throughout the U.S., Canada, Mexico, Spain and Morocco. To date, I spend seven to eight months out of the year living on my bike. For the rest of the time I base myself in Durango, Colorado. How do I make it all work? People ask me all the time. I support myself through sponsorship and writing stories for blogs, magazines and books. I organize events and make bikepacking routes. You can even find me working part-time at a bike shop, the Durango Cyclery, for a few months out of the year. While bikepacking changed my life drastically, you don’t need to give up your job, your home or your pets to benefit from the thrill, challenge and freedom that bikepacking adventures can bring.
“I ride with a Boombotix Stereo and play my favorite tunes to get me through the tough times. Plus, when you are out in the middle of nowhere, you can dance and sing as loud as you like.” HERE ARE MY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR HOW TO GET STARTED: Plan ahead, but not too much. Be sure to note the distance of your route, the elevation and the food and water resupply points. Don’t rush it. Take a lot of breaks, go for mid-ride hikes and swims, explore and take pictures. Ditch those gel packs, and bring real food for a picnic (hard salami, cheese, crackers). Get out there, no matter your gear. You don’t need fancy gear to start. Work up to it and use what you have. My friend carried a backpack full of her stuff and strapped a full size pillow to her bike on her first bikepacking trip, and she had a blast. Also head over to www.bikepacking.com for general information about bikepacking, gear, routes, events and stories. Embrace the unexpected. We live such rigid, goal-oriented lives that it can be challenging to be adaptable and embrace the unexpected change that can happen during an adventure. Bikepacking can be a lot less stressful and a lot more fun if we can let loose a little.
Use a GPS device and make navigating easy. These days our smartphones make great GPS devices. There are loads of applications where you can download base maps and routes to follow. My favorites are Gaia GPS and Ride With GPS. Start small. Plan more time than you think you need for your first few trips. A 50-mile route fully-loaded with bikepacking gear will take much longer than it would unloaded. My favorite average mileage per day is 25-30 miles depending on terrain, conditions and elevation. Visit public lands. I suggest starting in the closest national forest or BLM land to you for quiet roads and trails, and easy camping. Maps for public lands are easily accessible and outline different trails, roads and campgrounds, making it a bit easier to plan a route to follow. Bring the necessities. This includes, but is not limited to: shelter, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, GPS device, battery, water filter, tool and repair kit, food, wool layers, down jacket, rain jacket and water bottles or water bladders. There is no shame in music doping. I ride with a Boombotix Stereo and play my favorite tunes to get me through the tough times. Plus, when you are out in the middle of nowhere, you can dance and sing as loud as you like. Ride dirt roads. While singletrack can add a certain level of peace, quiet and adventure, it can also take a physical and mental toll when you ride them on a fully-loaded bike. Dirt roads are great options for bikepacking. They will get you out there but are less technical than bikepacking on singletrack.
FOUR BEGINNER FRIENDLY BIKEPACKING ROUTES IN THE FOUR CORNERS CEDAR MESA LOOP, UTAH
154 Miles 9,607 Feet of elevation gain 60% Unpaved 0% Singletrack 3-4 Days ALPINE LOOP, COLORADO
80 Miles 7,800 Feet of elevation gain, 85% Unpaved 0% Singletrack 2-3 Days VALLES CALDERA SUPERVOLCANO EXPLORER, NEW MEXICO
121 Miles 12,624 Feet of elevation gain 90% Unpaved 3% Singletrack 3-4 Days CRATERS AND CINDER CONES LOOP, ARIZONA
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UNIVERSAL
FLOW Protecting rivers is vital for our tribes, agriculture and recreation
PHOTOS BY DANA ROMANAOFF
F
rancisco “Cisco” Guevara, then 13 years old, gripped the edge of the large, inflatable inner tube. The current accelerated his vessel into consecutive waves of whitewater. He squeezed his wide eyes shut: an experience that, years later would inspire his life path as a river guide and conservationist. Teenagers from Taos, New Mexico, like Guevara, grow up playing in the Rio Grande, one of the country’s original eight rivers protected by the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. For many of the local and indigenous people of northern New Mexico, their cultural roots and livelihoods are connected to the water. “When I look at the (Rio Grande), I see life and my partner, who helps me make a living and water my crops, so that I can feed myself and my community. I see my ancestors using the water and my grandkids running the river, like I do now,” said BY Louie Hena, in the American M O R G A N T I LT O N Rivers’ documentary film, Avanyu Protecting the Rio Grande. For close to two decades, Hena has been a guide for Los Rios River Runners, the commercial raft company that Guevara launched five years after his high school graduation in the 1970s. To help share tribal perspectives of the Rio Grande, Hena developed the Native Cultures Feast and Float, a river trip woven with Pueblo history and a traditional feast.
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The “Big River” starts in Colorado’s San Juan Mountains and flows southbound through the San Luis Valley and New Mexico before reaching the U.S Mexico border. The Rio Grande feeds local economies via outdoor recreation and education, supports the crops of farmers and tribes, and sustains endemic species. The river is also a vital place for tribal ceremonies. Hena is from the Tesuque Pueblo, one of 18 Pueblos that depend on the Rio Grande and its tributaries, and he practices immersive river rituals that require water clarity. Fortunately, the Rio Grande’s Wild and Scenic Rivers (WSR) designation, which stretches 68.2 miles, helps to preserve the river’s water quality and prevent river-altering projects such as dams. A WSR designation also serves as a tool to educate visitors, market outdoor trips for local businesses, and support conservation efforts. “People who come to Taos appreciate the beauty and energy of this “When I look at the place. The Rio Grande’s WSR recognition helps travelers understand why this river is special to the locals,” Guevara said. He co-founded Amigos [Rio Grande], I see Bravos (AB), a statewide water conservation organization that uses life and my partner, science and cultural values to leverage legislative policies and protect New who helps me make a Mexico’s waterways. The $10,000 fund that launched the orga-nization was collected via parking fees – $10 per car – for a WSR 20th anniversary living and water my party, 30 years ago. Beyond WSR protection, communities need to be the crops, so that I can watchdog of their rivers. feed myself and my “A Wild and Scenic River designation on a river’s main stem is not enough protection: The river is vulnerable if you don’t protect the community.” headwaters,” Guevara said. In one recent case, AB argued against a pending sale of public lands to oil and gas companies, near the community of Cebolla – an area that serves as headwaters to the Rio Grande. For the moment, they won: The Bureau of Land Management Taos Field Office excluded the parcels from the 2014 lease. Across the country, 209 rivers are designated as WSR. However, at least 3,200 rivers qualify, according to Denielle Perry, a former Los Rios River Runners raft guide and assistant professor in the School of Earth Sciences and Environmental Sustainability at Northern Arizona University. More U.S. rivers need to be protected, especially in the desert Southwest. “Riparian areas occupy less than 10 percent of land in the desert Southwest, and 80 percent of all biodiversity is found within the river riparian corridors,” Perry said. “Meaning, rivers are a very scarce, super important resource in this region.” In the Four Corners, only 427 river miles are WSR, which is one-tenth of 1 percent of all rivers in Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah. As Hena said, our rivers and streams are connected to every community in New Mexico and in the Four Corners of the desert Southwest. Without water, there is no life. “Recreation and tourism is measurable,” Guevara said. “How do you put a dollar sign on the value of protecting wild places for our well being – physically, mentally, and spiritually? It’s priceless.”
M O R E F R O M M O R G A N T I LT O N V I S I T
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VALLEY
Photo by Brandon Mathis
Nestled between Colorado’s San Juan and Sangre de Cristo mountain ranges, the 8,0000-square-mile San Luis Valley is a slice of Colorado waiting to be discovered. STO RY BY BRA N D O N MAT H I S PH OTOS BY T ERRA N CE S I EMO N
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B
rink Messick and Mick Daniel are surveying a desert landscape “So how do you combine these items to build stronger communities,” he said. “I think that is really where we are from the saddles of their mountain bikes looking for input trying to head here.” from a group of riders they’ve led into the canyons and mesas outside of Del Norte, Colorado. Though better known for rock THE SECRET IS OUT climbing, mountain bikers have taken interest in the rugged Aside from being a ripping mountain biker, Messick, terrain over the last few years. All are part of a movement conservation outreach and project manager with the to develop new recreational opportunities in the San Luis Colorado Mountain Club, spends free time trail building in Valley in hopes of bringing some attention to one of the most the San Luis Valley. economically challenged regions in the state. “At this point the economic benefits of trail development To Messick, it’s all about providing access to public lands. and trail based recreation are no longer a secret,” Messick said. “Access to hiking, hunting, running, watching, biking,” he “Rural communities all over the country are looking at nearby said. “Access to forests, streams, mountain-tops, desert rocks, public lands, their natural and recreation resources with dollar access to public lands and open spaces, yours, mine, ours.” signs in their eyes.” The valley isn’t on the top of the list It’s not all trails. The Rio Grande River when it comes to iconic Colorado, but it Restoration Project aims to develop river “I consider should be. Crowned by soaring peaks and access in towns like Del Norte, while the the biggest laced with diverse ecosystems, the variety Upper Rio Grande Watershed Assessment benefit of of landscape and culture gets concealed will examine the state of rivers and streams trails and trail from the blitz of recreational tourism that in the valley. development to has enriched other parts of the state. But “We’re improving the communities’ health also be one of that all might change. and wellness and also attracting tourists to those areas,” Daniel said. “Businesses catering Not long ago, Del Norte, population the principal to those tourists will benefit and hire more 1,600, was a stop on the road to elsewhere; functions people and pay more tax, pumping dollars but these days, groups like the Del Norte of trails back into a community.” Trails Organization, San Luis Valley Great themselves, Outdoors and Great Outdoors Colorado are PAY DIRT access.” turning things around. And it’s not just One example isn’t far away: Leadville, -brink messick the visitors they are trying to sway. It’s the Colorado, a mining boomtown that derailed in residents too. the 1980s. Community forerunners established “If we can help our communities build a series of mountain biking and trail running trail and outdoor recreation infrastructure, hopefully our events to boost a fading economy. What started in 1982 with 45 residents will begin to take advantage of it being so close runners brought $15 million of revenue to the community in 2012. to home,” Daniel said, fresh off a quad-busting, gravel-grind The San Luis may not be the next Leadville, but that’s OK. bike race in Kansas. Daniel is director of SLV GO, a nonprofit It doesn’t have to be. Just getting people within reach of the working to enhance the San Luis Valley’s recreational outdoors is a solid start. opportunities. “It is difficult to value and appreciate something that can “The research is showing really strong benefits to time not be observed and experienced first-hand,” Messick said. spent on dirt in natural areas,” he said. “I consider the biggest benefit of trails and trail development The research also shows that towns with healthier to also be one of the principal functions of trails themselves, economies have higher health and wellness scores, according access.” For more information, visit www.slvgo.com and www.delnortetrails.org. to Daniel.
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KEEPING
UP WITH
KIRK Heath Scott on pacing a legend at the Hardrock 100
HE AT H
K
PH OTOS CO U R T ESY O F S COT T AN D K I R K APT
irk Apt is a legend in the ultrarunner community, but he’d never tell you that. Under a crystalline sky following a furious lightning storm in the San Juan Mountains, he was about to finish one of the most esteemed and difficult mountain ultramarathons in the world
He has an impressive running résumé: 56 finishes of 100 miles or more, including a win at the Leadville Trail 100 in Leadville, Colorado, and a record-setting win at the Hardrock 100 Endurance Run in Silverton, Colorado. “It’s exciting,” Apt said. “It’s challenging. It’s daunting at times, and yeah, it can get ragged.” Being fairly new to the sport, and hailing from sea level, I have absolutely no business pacing such a legend of the sport. I also have little idea why he continues to offer me this opportunity. Whatever the reason, I’ll never take it for granted.
– for the 24th time.
BY
H E AT H C .
ART OF THE PACE Pacing is an integral part of ultramarathons, particularly 100-milers. As the miles stack up and day turns to night, runners face several challenges. Their minds begin to fade and cause a cascading effect of complications. Most will have to run through the night, and it becomes challenging to focus on course markings, thereby making navigation infinitely difficult. The lack of sleep frequently causes hallucinations. Calories need to be consumed approximately every 30 minutes, which should be easy; but when one’s body has been depleted of its reserves, time morphs and hours can pass without fuel, leading to the infamous crash. At that point it’s usually too late to dig out of calorie depletion. This is where pacers come in. It’s the pacer’s job to keep their runner on course, ensure calories are being consumed, and most importantly – but often just as challenging – keep a fatigued SCOTT runner’s morale and spirits up. ART OF THE RACE The Hardrock 100 course, connecting Silverton, Telluride, Ouray and Lake City, reverses direction each year as it carries runners over 66,000 feet up and down throughout the San Juan Mountains of Southwest Colorado.
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WILD VOICES
Photo by Brandon Mathis
This year, the runners ran clockwise and were allowed to pick up pacers at the 44-mile aid station in Ouray. Apt’s longtime pacer, Bruno Brunson was on duty from Ouray to Cunningham Gulch, the last aid station at mile 91. My responsibility would be to help him navigate the final 3,000-foot climb over Dives-Little Giant Pass, before descending back into Silverton. We left Cunningham Gulch in darkness, but this year’s race had something else up its sleeve – the most frightening, powerful lightning storm I had ever experienced. “In 25 years of running this race, I’ve never seen a lightning storm this bad,” Apt said. “There’s no way in hell I’m going out in that.” He decided to take a quick nap, while the rest of us sat around in awe at the sound and fury of the behemoth. An hour later, the storm began to subside. Once I roused him from a deep sleep, we set off into the night. As we climbed out of Cunningham, it seemed like a completely different world. The temperature was surprisingly mild, and the sky awash in stars. The brief nap did wonders for our runner. He was feeling fresh as we made our way over the pass. The rest of the evening was textbook; as we settled into a comfortable pace, the miles passed. The only help I offered were reminders to eat, and circuitously winding stories to distract him from the task at hand. The trail turned to rocky jeep road that wound around the base of Kendall Mountain, just above downtown Silverton and finally delivered us onto the sleeping streets. COMING IN HOT I felt myself welling up. As we made the final turn cheers erupted and any bit of wistfulness disappeared, replaced by an overwhelming euphoria. Dozens of people were in sight, cheering him on. “K-Daddy’s coming in hot,” I yelled. Shortly after 1 a.m., Apt continued his record-setting streak, completing that epic loop in the San Juan Mountains 24 times. Whether he really needed my help or not, I don’t know, but it’s undoubtedly been the honor of a lifetime to call myself his pacer.
FOR MORE ON THE HARDROCK ENDURANCE RUN, VISIT
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V I S TA S
HANNAH GREEN ARTIST, ENDURANCE ATHLETE AND DIRT-BAGGING FUN HAWG A soft-spoken creative young woman who takes world-class detours from her bucket list adventures and thinks about art along the way. Green has created a stir. While hiking the 3,100-mile Continental Divide Trail (CDT) from Mexico to Canada, she detoured for Nolan’s 14, where ambitious runners have 60 hours to summit 14 of Colorado’s 14,000-foot mountains. She thought of it a week before. We chatted with Green about art, adventure and how she hates planning more than anything. “The sage-covered On being outside: I’m finding that longer, solo adventures are more rewarding because I can’t rely on anyone but myself to get from point A hillsides and ribbons to point B – a fact that holds true in everyday life too. I’ve lost some close of dirt road that people in my life, namely my mom, and I recognize that life is too short seemed to eternally to wait to do anything you’re passionate about. You just have to go for unfold in front of it. Whatever “it” is. On inspiration: “My ideas for art come from other artists both historic me, not to mention and contemporary, from all mediums, from music to science, painting to the beautiful sunsets film. I also like to read, which I think brings ideas because it brings you into burning red from the someone else’s head. My dad is also an artist and can talk for hours about haze of wildfire smoke any idea I might have or he’ll point me to someone to look at for ideas. On why art is important: It forces me to see, not just look. It forces me and a full moon. to think differently. Instead of saying something is nice or pretty, or you The days were long, like it, art gets you to ask why. It asks questions that there might not be and much like art, answers for or create new ones people haven’t thought of. had me questioning On being a mess: “I’m horribly disorganized and I hate planning anything. As a result, many of my adventures are done pretty everything.” spontaneously. I only decided to do the CDT about a month before I started, and then Nolan’s 14 was a decision I made only a week before going for it. For a while I viewed my art as separate from my adventures despite everything having an undertone related to the outdoors. But now I realize that being outside and working my way through an adventure I’ve planned is as much a mode of self-expression as any photograph I am making.” Camp for a night somewhere on the Continental Divide Trail. 48 | A D V E N T U R E P R O . u s
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