Pakistan Textile Journal, September 2026 by Pakistan Textile Journal

Established 1951 September 2026

UK Review

BRITISH ENGINEERING

GLOBAL TEXTILE

INNOVATION

Engineering excellence and sustainability in cutting edge textile technologies

visit: www.btma.org.uk Email: info@btma.org.uk | Call: +44 161 707 0209

Calendar of Events

CAITME 2026

DPS World Pakistan 2027 th

Dates: September 8 to 10 , 2026.

Dates: January 12th to 14th, 2027.

Venue: Tashkent, Uzbekistan.

Venue: Karachi Expo Centre.

IGATEX Pakistan 2026 Dates: October 15th to 18th, 2026. Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Heimtextil 2027 Dates: January 12th to 15th, 2027. Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

ITMA 2027 Dates: September 16th to 22nd, 2027. Venue: Hanover, Germany.

DOMOTEX Hanover 2028 Dates: January 17th to 20th, 2028. Venue: Hanover, Germany.

iCADEX Pakistan 2026 Dates: October 15th to 18th, 2026. Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

VIATT 2027 Dates: February 24th to 26th, 2027. Venue: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Techtextil and Texprocess 2028 Dates: April 4th to 7th, 2028. Venue: Frankfurt, Germany.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2026 Dates: November 20th to 24th, 2026. Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

FESPA Middle East 2027 Dates: April 27th to 29th, 2027.

FESPA Global Print Expo 2027

Venue: Dubai Exhibition Centre.

Dates: April 6th to 9th, 2027. Venue: Munich, Germany.

Textile Asia 2026, Karachi Dates: December 05th to 07th, 2026. Venue: Expo Centre, Karachi.

Textile Asia 2026, Faisalabad Dates: December 11th to 13th, 2026. Venue: N.T.U., Faisalabad

DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR 2027 Dates: May 26th to 28th, 2027. Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

ITM 2028 Dates: June 13th to 17th, 2028. Venue: Istanbul, Türkiye.

Cinte Techtextil China 2027 Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress Dates: September 16th to 18th, 2026. Venue: Dornbirn, Austria.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

Dates: Aug. 31st to Sep. 2nd, 2027. Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China.

HIGHTEX 2028 Dates: June 13th to 17th, 2028. Venue: Istanbul, Türkiye.

Vol. LXXV No. 09 - September 2026

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Publisher Nadeem Mazhar

Rs. 685.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Renewing a historic textile partnership

Editor in Chief Amina Baqai

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Executive Editor Nimrah Nadeem

NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Associate Editor Minhaj Ali

AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Production Manager Mazhar Ali

CORPORATE NEWS

Layout & Design Noor M. Jaan

Italian textile machinery at TITAS 2026: Strategic partnership and tailor-made solutions for the Taiwanese market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 TMAS welcomes ReSpin as Swedish textile recycling accelerates . . . . . . . . . . . .20 YKK launches No. 3 size of QuickFree® click-TRAK® Magnetic zipper globally . . .21 OEKO-TEX® Annual Report 2025/2026: Traceability becomes a market requirement .22 New 6020 ceramic oiler: Optimised yarn quality for low-titer applications . . . .23

Hony-Editorial Board Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh

Asia Pacific Rayon and TOTON showcase the creative potential of viscose and lyocell in contemporary fashion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

Syed Mahfooz Qutab C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

Editorial & Advertising Office B-4, 2nd Floor, 64/21, M.A.C.H, Miran M. Shah Road, Karachi - Pakistan Tel: +92-21-34311674-5 Fax: +92-21-34533616 Email: info@ptj.com.pk URL: http://www.ptj.com.pk

PTJ Europe Ltd. Registered Office: Dairy House, Money Row Green, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2ND, United Kingdom. Registered no. 09141989 Tel: +44 792 2228 721 Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi. Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

DYES AND CHEMICAL Archroma wins ICIS Innovation Award for sulfur dye breakthrough . . . . . . . . . .26 bluesign updates chemical reference lists with stronger PFAS restrictions . . . . .27

FAIRS AND EXHIBITIONS Heimtextil Trends 27/28: ‘Home-Maxxing’ between performance and respite . .28 Yarn Expo Autumn 2026 draws to a close, weaving sustainable innovation into global sourcing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 20 start-ups selected for CEMATEX Start-Up Grant at ITMA 2027 . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

FEATURES Groz-Beckert: Your partner for the entire weaving process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 One in four U.S. cotton acres provides field-level data through the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Rethinking workwear performance from the fiber up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 ACIMIT promotes Italian textile technology in Mongolia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Pre-Cleaner CL-X from Trützschler: Proven in cotton cleaning, creating value beyond the spinning mill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

The new RDJ 7/3 defines the design footprint of modern athletic shoes . . . . . .40 KARL MAYER launches Jacquard Double Needle Bar Raschel Machine with three jacquard bars for maximum design flexibility

Mimaki advances DTF productivity and stability with new TxF330-800 . . . . . . .42 New TxF330-800 direct-to-film (DTF) printer enhances automation and supports longer, continuous garment decoration.

INTERVIEW Ready for the future: PI Cottex chooses Brückner again for reliable quality and efficiency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

SPECIAL REPORT USTER Sentinel delivers measurable gains from spinning to winding . . . . . . . . . . .46 Rieter: Automatic can exchange at the roving frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

UK REVIEW UK and Pakistan: A flourishing textile and trade relationship

. . . . . . . . . . . . .50

UK textile machinery: Engineering innovation for a changing global industry . . .52

by Jason Kent, CEO, British Textile Machinery Association

Shelton: Vision inspection as a pillar of sustainable textile manufacturing . . . .56 Testing with confidence: SDC Enterprises introduces new safeguards against counterfeit consumables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Strayfield: Evaluating the economics of single-zone RF yarn drying . . . . . . . . .60 VeriVide expands its LED colour assessment range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 Roaches: Continuous innovation across generations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 Martindale AXYZ advances abrasion and pilling testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Tatham hemp fibre processing: From field to fibre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Alchemie advances digital dyeing and precision finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 James Heal WickView brings moisture management testing closer to real-life

performance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 Sellers: Precision finishing and fibre recovery for carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 The Textile Institute: Connecting the global textile community since 1910 . . . .70 Prof. S. M. Qutab and The Textile Institute: An association spanning generations

.71

EDITOR’S PAGE

Renewing a historic textile partnership The revival of Pakistan Textile Journal’s UK Review is far more than the return of a feature. It offers an opportunity to reflect on a relationship between British industry Established 1951

and Pakistan. When Pakistan Textile Journal first appeared in 1951, an advertisement from Platt Brothers was among its pages. British machinery played an important role in Pakistan’s emerging textile industry, with mills relying on British technology.

September 2026

UK Review

BRITISH ENGINEERING

GLOBAL TEXTILE

INNOVATION

Engineering excellence and sustainability in cutting edge textile technologies

The relationship extended beyond machinery. ICI established a significant presence in Pakistan and is now part of the industrial heritage of Lucky Core Industries. Its history runs from the Khewra operation established in 1944 through ICI Pakistan to Lucky Core Industries. Much has changed since those early decades. Pakistan has developed an extensive

visit: www.btma.org.uk Email: info@btma.org.uk | Call: +44 161 707 0209

September 2026

textile value chain, while British textile engineering has evolved towards specialist engineering, automation, sustainability and advanced materials. As Jason Kent, Chief Executive Officer of the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA), explains in the opening article, these are increasingly important areas of British expertise. The companies featured in this review illustrate that transformation. Sellers Textile Engineers specialises in coating, drying and finishing; Amba Projex in coating and laminating for textiles and composites; and Shelton Machines in automated inspection and machine vision. VeriVide, SDC Enterprises, Roaches International and James Heal demonstrate British expertise in colour assessment, testing and quality control, while Tatham brings fibre-opening technology to areas such as hemp and nonwovens, and Strayfield continues to innovate in radio-frequency drying. Together, they show how textile engineering now extends into technical textiles,

ICI advertising April 1957.

composites and specialised manufacturing. This evolution is particularly relevant to Pakistan. Its textile industry has manufacturing capacity and an established position in international markets, but competitiveness increasingly depends on productivity, efficiency, quality, automation and value addition. Technology is not simply about producing more; it affects how efficiently and sustainably production is achieved. The relationship between British engineering and Pakistan’s textile industry can therefore acquire renewed significance. The opportunity is to develop new cooperation around the challenges of modern manufacturing. UK–Pakistan trade in goods and services reached £5.5 billion in the four quarters to the end of 2025, according to the latest UK government trade data. From the Platt Brothers advertisement in PTJ’s first issue to the technologies presented in these pages 75 years later, there is a thread of continuity. The companies and technologies may certainly have changed, but the relationship remains relevant.

Platt Bros advertising January 1956.

Bringing the UK Review back to PTJ is therefore about more than looking back. It is about recognising where this relationship stands today, and where it might lead next.

Textile Briefs National Pakistan is planning to establish a 400-acre apparel manufacturing zone at Port Qasim in Karachi, with the government projecting more than 138,000 jobs and annual exports of about $2.2 billion from the first phase of the project.

The Federal Government has taken another step to strengthen Pakistan’s exportoriented industries by sanctioning Rs 10 billion under the Duty Drawback and Technology Upgradation Schemes for the textile, apparel and other export sectors.

Pakistan’s technical textile sector is set to receive a further boost through a capacity-building initiative under which researchers from the National Textile University (NTU) Faisalabad have received specialised training in advanced textile technologies in South Korea.

Pakistan’s Ambassador to the United States Rizwan Saeed Sheikh has met with Pakistani home textile exporters based in the US to discuss different ways to increase textile exports and strengthen Pakistan’s position in the American market ahead of the upcoming Home Textiles Market Week 2026.

The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has supported enforcement measures taken by the Federal Board of Revenue (FBR) and Pakistan Customs against suspected misdeclaration of fabric entering Pakistan under the Export Facilitation Scheme (EFS).

Cotton arrivals at ginneries across Pakistan rose 27% year on year to 1.696 million bales by 31 August, up from 1.336 million bales a year earlier, according to data from the Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association (PCGA) and Karachi Cotton Association. Sindh drove the increase,

1 2

recording 1.139 million bales, up 30.95% year on year and accounting for nearly twothirds of the national total. Punjab recorded 557,097 bales, an increase of 19.66%. Sanghar emerged as the district with the highest cotton arrivals, with 757,845 bales. In Punjab, Bahawalpur recorded a 161.13% increase to 64,326 bales, while Bahawalnagar rose 85.28% to 65,331 bales. Of the total arrivals, ginners pressed 1.583 million bales, while 73,000 bales were sold to exporters and traders. Textile mills purchased 1.465 million bales, indicating that domestic mills remained the main buyers of the crop.

Textile Briefs International Bangladesh’s garment exporters currently face an indicative 26.5% US tariff burden, comprising an average 16.5% MFN duty and a new 10% Section 301 tariff. The earlier 36.5% figure was based on a superseded 2025 reciprocal tariff. Proposed tariff-rate quotas linked to purchases of US-origin cotton and textile inputs could provide relief and influence future sourcing decisions.

China’s textile industry remained resilient in H1 2026 despite weak global demand and trade pressures. Industrial added value rose 3%, while textile and apparel exports increased 1.4% to US$145.96 billion. Textile exports grew 3.5%,

although apparel exports fell 0.7%. Industry profits rose 19.2%, with future growth expected to focus on highervalue production, digitalisation, sustainability and market diversification. Egypt is accelerating the modernisation of its state-owned textile sector while seeking greater private-sector participation. The programme focuses on improving efficiency, introducing modern technology, increasing production and strengthening exports. The government aims to restore Egypt’s position in cotton and textile manufacturing and double export rates through technological and operational upgrades.

Ghana has launched a 20-hectare pilot cotton project in Savelugu

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

under its Northern Cotton Revival Initiative, aiming to rebuild domestic cotton production and reduce reliance on imports. The initiative coincides with new apparel investment, including a US$11.6 million factory in Savelugu employing over 2,300 people. Expanding cotton production remains essential to developing an integrated local textile value chain.

higher-value products,

Vietnam’s textile and garment exports reached US$22.2 billion in H1 2026, up 1.7% year-on-year. Fibre, fabric and material exports grew strongly, while garment exports declined 0.4%. The US remained the largest market, while EU exports rose 8.8%. The industry is prioritising productivity,

strong growth highlights the

domestic raw materials, market diversification, digitalisation and sustainability, with a US$48 billion full-year export target. Uzbekistan’s textile

exports surged 26.6% to US$1.9 billion in

January–July 2026. Finished textile products represented 52.2% of exports, while yarn accounted for 31.4%. The sector’s increasing importance and Uzbekistan’s shift toward higher-value manufactured textile exports. Textiles accounted for 3.8% of total foreign trade, with sectoral export growth significantly outpacing the country’s overall trade expansion.

News & Views Government plans 400-acre apparel zone at Port Qasim to drive exports and jobs Pakistan is planning to establish a 400-acre apparel manufacturing zone at Port Qasim in Karachi, with the government projecting more than 138,000 jobs and annual exports of about $2.2 billion from the first phase of the project. Federal Minister for Maritime Affairs Junaid Anwar Chaudhry announced the plan while M. Junaid Anwar Chaudhry, chairing a Federal Minister for meeting on the Maritime Affairs proposed garment city at Port Qasim, as the government looks to expand the country’s manufacturing base and increase the value of its textile exports. The first phase is planned across 250 acres, of which 35 per cent would be reserved for internal roads, utilities and green spaces. The project would operate under a public-private partnership model and is intended to bring together apparel manufacturers, supporting infrastructure and export facilities within a single industrial cluster. Officials presented projections showing that the first phase could generate 138,125 jobs and bring in annual exports of around $2.2bn. The initiative also aims to increase the average export value of garments to approximately $8 per piece, reflecting the government’s push towards higher-value production rather than lower-margin manufacturing. Under the current plan, the zone would contain 32 industrial plots of five acres each. Chaudhry said the plot sizes

could be reduced to two or three acres if necessary, allowing a larger number of investors and manufacturing units to participate. The Port Qasim Authority would be responsible for providing the core infrastructure and utilities. Each industrial unit is expected to have access to as much as 400,000 gallons of water per day, two megawatts of on-grid electricity and 23,100 pounds of industrial gas a day at eight pounds per square inch, sufficient to support steam requirements of up to 10 tonnes. Across the wider project, planned utility capacity stands at 13 million gallons of water per day, 64MW of electricity and 750,000 pounds of industrial gas per day. Private investment is expected to form a central part of the development. According to the ministry, Pakistani textile and denim manufacturer Artistic Milliners is expected to establish a manufacturing facility at the site with an investment of more than $18m. The proposed unit would incorporate vertical integration and green technologies.

The government also plans to introduce a one-window system for exporters, bringing together streamlined export processing, specialised customs desks and dedicated transport corridors. The aim is to reduce administrative delays and make the zone more attractive to manufacturers targeting international markets. The development comes as Pakistan seeks to strengthen its textile and apparel industry, traditionally one of the country’s biggest sources of export earnings. The sector has nevertheless faced persistent pressures, including high energy costs, ageing technology and growing competition from other regional producers. By locating the proposed manufacturing cluster at Port Qasim, the government hopes to make use of the port’s existing industrial and logistics infrastructure while creating a more integrated route from production to export. The proposed apparel zone is also part of a wider effort by the maritime authorities to increase the economic contribution of Pakistan’s ports and coastal infrastructure. The government’s Blue Economy agenda for the 2026-27 financial year includes plans covering shipping, port infrastructure, fisheries and offshore energy.

Pakistan and South Korea partner for industrial textile innovation Pakistan’s technical textile sector is set to receive a further boost through a capacity-building initiative under which researchers from the National Textile University (NTU) Faisalabad have

10 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

News & Views received specialised training in advanced textile technologies in South Korea. Prof Dr Rashid Masood, Rector of NTU Faisalabad, said ten doctoral scholars from the university Dr. Rashid Masood, participated in the Prof. Rector of NTU Faisalabad programme, which was designed to strengthen research capabilities and prepare a new generation of Pakistani researchers for work in the technical textiles sector. The two-week programme held from 17 to 30 August 2026 was conducted under the Korea International Cooperation Agency (KOICA) Official Development Assistance project titled “Strengthening of PAK-KOREA Technical Textile Center”. The Korea Institute of Industrial Technology (KITECH) provided technical support for the initiative. According to Prof Dr Masood, the training is particularly significant as Pakistan and Korea move closer to completing the PAK-KOREA Technical Textile Center, which is scheduled to be

completed in 2027. The trained scholars are expected to contribute to research and development activities at the centre once it becomes operational. The researchers received both classroom-based instruction and practical exposure at KITECH’s advanced research and pilot-production facilities. Their training covered several aspects of nonwoven manufacturing, alongside specialised work involving filter performance assessment and chemical analysis of textile materials.

The programme provided the scholars with exposure to different stages of textile production, beginning with manufacturing principles and equipment operation and extending to production, product testing and technical analysis. As part of the programme, the NTU researchers also visited Preview in Seoul (PIS) 2026 at COEX on 21 August. The major textile exhibition provided an opportunity for the Pakistani scholars to examine emerging textile materials, technologies and industrial solutions

News & Views presented by Korean and international companies. Prof Dr Masood said the latest training programme represents the final invitational capacity-building activity under the current KOICA project. Earlier initiatives were conducted for Pakistani policymakers in 2024 and NTU faculty members in 2025. The three-year cooperation programme has therefore gradually expanded its focus, beginning with policy-level stakeholders before moving towards university faculty and subsequently doctoral researchers. This approach has enabled the project to address policy development as well as the development of specialised human resources required by Pakistan’s technical textile industry. Earlier in 2026, the project also produced a Pakistan Technical Textiles Policy Proposal aimed at providing strategic guidance for the development and expansion of the country’s technical textiles sector. The academic component of the latest programme concluded with a completion ceremony on 28 August, followed by a Korean cultural experience arranged for the participants on 29 August. The cooperation between NTU and KITECH is expected to continue beyond the training phase. Both institutions are preparing joint research and development activities for the remaining period of the project, with further initiatives planned to connect the technical knowledge developed through the programme with Pakistan’s industrial sector.

Government sanctions Rs 10 billion support for textile and export industries The Federal Government has taken another step to strengthen Pakistan’s export-oriented industries by sanctioning Rs 10 billion under the Duty Drawback and Technology Upgradation Schemes for the textile, apparel and other export sectors. Federal Minister for Commerce Jam Kamal Khan, while announcing the Mr. Jam Kamal Khan, development, said Federal Minister for Commerce the Ministry of

12 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

Commerce had sanctioned Rs 10,000 million through the schemes with the objective of easing financial pressures faced by exporters and providing greater support for industrial growth.

Mr Mukhtar said that quicker access to exporters’ funds would provide immediate financial relief to the sector and help businesses channel greater resources towards export operations.

According to the Commerce Minister, the release of funds is expected to improve the liquidity position of exportoriented industries, allowing businesses to manage their financial requirements more effectively while expanding their export activities.

He further expressed optimism that improved liquidity would contribute towards higher export volumes, describing timely payments to exporters as an important requirement for strengthening Pakistan’s export performance.

The funding will also support technological improvements across the industrial sector. Improved access to Mr. Khurram Mukhtar, Patron-in-Chief, PTEA technology is expected to help exporters strengthen production capabilities, enhance efficiency and compete more effectively in international markets. The government’s latest move comes as part of its broader efforts to improve the business environment for exporters and strengthen the country’s export base. By facilitating access to funds and encouraging technological development, the initiative is aimed at creating better conditions for industries seeking to increase their presence in international markets. Meanwhile, Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA) Patron-in-Chief Khurram Mukhtar welcomed recent progress on the release of outstanding payments to exporters. He particularly appreciated Federal Board of Revenue (FBR) Chairman Rashid Langrial for facilitating the clearance of GST refunds and duty drawback claims.

APTMA backs action against alleged misuse of export facilitation scheme The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has supported enforcement measures taken by the Federal Board of Revenue (FBR) and Pakistan Customs against suspected misdeclaration of fabric entering Pakistan under the Export Facilitation Scheme (EFS). APTMA Chairman Kamran Arshad said the alleged misuse of the scheme had placed domestic fabric manufacturers at a significant disadvantage while also depriving the government of substantial tax and customs revenues. According to the textile association, Customs authorities had intensified scrutiny of fabric shipments arriving under the EFS, with consignments being subjected to detailed physical inspections and laboratory analysis to establish whether the declared specifications matched the actual characteristics of the imported material. The action followed the exclusion of greige fabric from the EFS through SRO 1435(I)/2025 in August 2025. APTMA

News & Views said that despite the change, shipments of such fabric had allegedly continued to enter the country without payment of applicable duties and sales tax through incorrect declarations. Laboratory examinations of several consignments reportedly detected the use of food colouring rather than appropriate textile dyeing processes. The findings resulted in contraventions being recorded against the consignments, according to APTMA. The association called for a uniform enforcement mechanism across the country and urged Customs to make both physical inspection and laboratory testing compulsory for every fabric consignment imported under the EFS. It said the requirement should also apply to shipments processed through dry ports. APTMA further called for greater scrutiny of the businesses benefiting from the scheme. The association proposed that Customs authorities verify whether importing companies actually possessed the machinery and facilities required to process the fabric covered by their EFS operations. The textile body alleged that certain importers lacked the necessary processing infrastructure and were instead diverting imported fabric into the domestic market. It argued that such activity undermined legitimate manufacturers that had invested in machinery, production facilities and employment. APTMA also urged the authorities to take legal action against businesses found to have violated the scheme. The association said the suspension of relevant licences and initiation of criminal proceedings should be considered where violations were established. Mr Arshad maintained that effective monitoring of the EFS was necessary to ensure that the facility served its intended purpose of supporting export-oriented manufacturing rather than becoming a channel for avoiding taxes and duties. He expressed confidence that the FBR would maintain its enforcement drive and take further steps to prevent misdeclaration under the scheme. APTMA said continued action against EFS violations would help safeguard domestic fabric manufacturers, strengthen government revenue collection and

establish a more level competitive environment for businesses operating within Pakistan’s textile industry.

Pakistan aims to boost textile exports in US market through Home Textiles Market Week 2026 Pakistan’s Ambassador to the United States Rizwan Saeed Sheikh has met with Pakistani home textile exporters based in the US to discuss different ways to increase textile exports and strengthen Pakistan’s position in the American market ahead of the upcoming Home Textiles Market Week 2026. The meeting was attended by Consul General of Pakistan in New York Aamer Ahmed Atozai and Trade & Investment Counsellor Adnan Mahmood Awan, who joined Ambassador Sheikh in discussions with Pakistani exporters regarding export competitiveness and preparations for the major textile trade event. According to the Pakistani Consulate in New York, the meeting focused on strengthening Pakistan’s export competitiveness and ensuring effective participation in Home Textiles Market Week 2026, which is scheduled to take place from 14 to 17 September. Home Textiles Market Week 2026, also known as New York Home Fashions Market Week, is considered one of the major business-to-business events for the home textile industry and is expected to bring together manufacturers, brands, suppliers and retailers from different parts of the industry.

The event will provide participating businesses with an opportunity to display and source a wide range of products including bedding, bath linens, curtains, rugs, decorative pillows and kitchen textiles, while also creating opportunities for exporters to develop new business relationships in the US market. However, Pakistan’s textile industry continues to face various challenges which are affecting its competitiveness in international markets. High energy costs, outdated infrastructure and uncertainty regarding policies have remained major concerns for manufacturers and exporters, while regional competitors including Bangladesh continue to strengthen their position in the global textile trade. The government has been taking various measures to improve textile exports and enhance the industry’s contribution towards the national economy. According to government figures released last month, Pakistan’s textile exports reached Rs 886 billion, equivalent to approximately USD 3.2 billion, during July-August 2025-26, compared with Rs 802.9 billion or USD 2.9 billion recorded during the corresponding period of the previous year. The upcoming Home Textiles Market Week is therefore expected to provide Pakistani exporters with an important opportunity to showcase their products, engage directly with US buyers and explore new avenues for increasing exports.

Around the World BANGLADESH Bangladesh garment exporters face 26.5% US tariff burden under current framework Bangladesh’s garment exporters continue to face elevated import costs in the US market, although the tariff burden is lower than the 36.5 percent figure cited in some recent industry reports, which was based on a superseded 2025 trade regime. Under the current US tariff framework, Bangladeshi apparel is generally subject to an average MostFavoured-Nation (MFN) duty of approximately 16.5 percent, in addition to a new 10 percent Section 301 tariff introduced in July 2026. This places the indicative combined tariff burden at around 26.5 percent, although actual rates vary according to the product and applicable HS code. The earlier 36.5 percent calculation combined the average 16.5 percent conventional tariff with a 20 percent reciprocal tariff imposed on Bangladeshi imports in 2025. That reciprocal tariff regime was subsequently overturned, with the US introducing a different trade measure effective from July 24, 2026. The new 10 percent Section 301 tariff followed US investigations into the enforcement of import prohibitions relating to forced labour. The additional duty is applied on top of normal productspecific tariffs, increasing the cost pressure faced by Bangladeshi apparel exporters in one of their most important overseas markets. The higher tariff burden is particularly significant for Bangladesh’s garment industry, where exporters operate on

relatively narrow FOB margins and increased import costs are often passed through the supply chain. US buyers may seek to offset part of the additional expense through lower supplier prices or revised sourcing arrangements. Bangladesh has nevertheless secured a potential avenue for reducing the additional tariff burden through the use of US-origin textile inputs. Under the new framework, the Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR) has been directed to establish tariff-rate quotas for Bangladesh, Cambodia, Indonesia and Malaysia. The proposed mechanism would allow specified quantities of textile and apparel products to enter the US without the additional Section 301 tariff, based on the participating countries’ purchases of US cotton and textile inputs. The arrangements could encourage stronger commercial links between US cotton producers, Bangladeshi spinning mills and garment manufacturers.

The development could be particularly relevant to Bangladesh because cottonbased products account for a large share of the country’s apparel exports to the US. Greater use of US-origin cotton and textile inputs could therefore become an important consideration in future sourcing and production decisions. However, the tariff environment remains competitive across major apparelproducing countries. India and Pakistan are also subject to 10 percent Section 301 tariffs, while Vietnam faces a 12.5 percent rate and does not currently benefit from the same textile-input mechanism. For Bangladesh, the impact on future exports will therefore depend less on the outdated 36.5 percent tariff figure and more on the implementation of the new tariff-rate quotas. The permitted volumes, qualification requirements and amount of US-origin textile inputs needed to secure relief will be important factors in determining future yarn sourcing, garment costing and the allocation of US orders.

CHINA China’s textile industry maintains growth amid trade and demand pressures China’s textile industry maintained broadly stable economic performance during the first half of 2026, with production, domestic sales, exports and profitability recording growth despite geopolitical tensions, volatile raw material prices, rising logistics costs and increasing trade barriers.

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According to the National Bureau of Statistics, capacity utilisation in China’s textile industry stood at 75.6 percent during the first half of the year, while the chemical fibre industry recorded a rate of 84.4 percent. Both remained above the national industrial average of 73.3 percent, although they declined by 2.2 and 1.6 percentage points, respectively, from the same period last year. Industrial added value among textile enterprises above designated size increased by 3 percent year-on-year. Several segments, including wool textiles, bast fibre textiles and textile machinery, recorded double-digit growth, while output increased across 12 of the 15 major textile product categories monitored by the National Bureau of Statistics. Domestic demand provided important support to the industry. Per capita clothing expenditure by Chinese residents increased by 4.4 percent year-on-year, while retail sales of garments, footwear, hats and knitted textiles by enterprises above designated size rose 6.7 percent. Online retail sales of wearable goods also increased by 6.2 percent. Exports remained under pressure but demonstrated resilience. According to China Customs data, textile and apparel exports reached US$145.96 billion during the first half of 2026, up 1.4 percent year-on-year. Textile exports rose 3.5 percent to US$73 billion, while apparel exports declined 0.7 percent to US$72.96 billion. Export performance varied across major markets, with shipments to the US, Cambodia, Russia and India recording double-digit growth. Exports to the European Union increased slightly, while shipments to Japan, ASEAN and South Korea declined. The industry’s profitability also improved. Operating revenue among around 37,000 textile enterprises above designated size increased by 0.9 percent year-on-year, while total profits rose 19.2 percent. The operating profit margin reached 3.2 percent, up 0.5 percentage point. However, performance differed across the value chain. Higher raw material prices supported upstream segments such as cotton spinning and chemical fibres, while weak demand and difficulties in passing higher costs through to customers continued to pressure knitting, apparel and home textile businesses. Looking ahead, the industry is expected to face continued uncertainty from weak global demand, geopolitical tensions, US tariff increases, volatile input prices and stronger international competition. China’s textile sector will therefore focus increasingly on higher-value production, digitalisation, green manufacturing, domestic demand and market diversification as it seeks to strengthen resilience and support stable growth during the 2026–2030 period.

EGYPT Egypt moves to modernise state-owned textile sector and expand private sector role Egypt is advancing plans to modernise the state-owned Holding Company for Cotton, Spinning, Weaving and Clothing, as the government seeks to increase private

Around the World sector participation and strengthen the international position of Egyptian cotton and textile products. Prime Minister Mostafa Madbouly said the government was working to make greater use of the sector’s existing capabilities while expanding the role of private companies in the management and operation of state-owned textile businesses. During a meeting at the government headquarters in New Alamein City, Madbouly said President Abdel Fattah AlSisi and state institutions were closely following developments in the sector and its ongoing restructuring efforts. Deputy Prime Minister for Economic Affairs Hussein Issa reviewed progress on the national development project, including the outcomes of recent government meetings and field visits aimed at monitoring implementation across its different components. The modernisation programme is being carried out through integrated plans focused on improving the efficiency of affiliated companies, increasing production and strengthening the competitiveness of Egyptian textile products in domestic, regional and international markets, Issa said. The government is also placing greater emphasis on technology as part of the restructuring process. Assistant Prime Minister and CEO of the StateOwned Enterprises Unit Hashem El-Sayed, together with Holding Company Chairman Ahmed Shaker, outlined measures to introduce modern industrial technologies across the sector. The upgrades are intended to restore Egypt’s historic position in cotton and textile manufacturing, expand access to

international markets and increase exports of locally produced goods. Officials are also targeting a doubling of export rates as the modernisation programme progresses. The push to attract greater private sector involvement comes as Egypt seeks to improve the performance of its stateowned industrial companies and make better use of the country’s established cotton and textile capabilities. The government’s plans are aimed at combining technological investment with stronger management and operational practices to improve the sector’s longterm competitiveness. The meeting was also attended by Assistant Minister of Investment and Foreign Trade Saeed Arafa, while Minister of Electricity and Renewable Energy Mahmoud Esmat and Minister of Investment and Foreign Trade Mohamed Farid Saleh participated via video conference.

VIETNAM Vietnam textile and garment exports rise 1.7% in first half of 2026 Vietnam’s textile and garment industry recorded estimated export earnings of USD 22.2 billion during the first half of 2026, an increase of 1.7 percent year-onyear, as stronger shipments of fibres, fabrics and textile-related materials helped offset weaker garment demand in several major markets. According to the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), exports of fibres, fabrics, accessories and nonwoven materials increased between 5.6 percent and 10.6 percent during the six-month period. Garment exports, however, declined by 0.4 percent as consumer demand in key international markets remained subdued. The US continued to be Vietnam’s largest export market based on data for the first five months of the year, with shipments reaching USD 6.81 billion, up 1.3 percent and accounting for approximately 45 percent of total textile and garment exports. The European Union was the strongest-performing major market, with exports rising 8.8 percent to USD 1.94 billion. Exports to Japan and the Republic of Korea, meanwhile, declined by 6.2 percent and 8.9 percent, respectively, reflecting continued pressure on demand across some of Vietnam’s established Asian markets.

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Around the World Despite the modest export growth, the industry maintained a trade surplus of nearly USD 10 billion during the first half of the year. The performance highlights the continued importance of textiles and garments to Vietnam’s export economy, although manufacturers are facing a more challenging international trading environment. VITAS said the industry continues to contend with sluggish demand in major markets, intense price competition and heavy reliance on imported raw materials. Companies are also facing higher costs associated with environmental, social and governance (ESG) requirements and product traceability, while uncertainty surrounding global trade policies is adding further pressure. VITAS Chairman Vu Duc Giang said the industry had limited scope to achieve further growth simply by increasing production volumes. He said future expansion would instead depend on improving productivity, developing higher-value products, strengthening domestic sources of raw materials, diversifying export markets and accelerating digital and green transformation. As part of these efforts, VITAS has approved the establishment of four specialised committees for its 2025–2030 term. The committees will focus on fashion and domestic market development, international business and supply chains, sustainable development, and technology, innovation and digital transformation. The committees are expected to begin pilot operations in the third quarter of 2026, providing a more focused framework for addressing the structural challenges facing the industry and supporting its transition towards highervalue production.

With exports reaching USD 22.2 billion in the first six months, Vietnam’s textile and garment industry is targeting full-year export earnings of around USD 48 billion. To achieve the goal, the sector aims to maintain average monthly export revenue of more than USD 4 billion during the remaining months of 2026. Key priorities include adapting to changing purchasing strategies among global brands, expanding domestic supplies of raw materials, diversifying markets and products, preparing for potential legal and trade risks, and increasing investment in technology, automation and digital transformation.

UZBEKISTAN Uzbekistan textile exports rise 26.6% in first seven months of 2026 Uzbekistan’s textile exports recorded strong growth during the first seven months of 2026, with shipments reaching US$1.9 billion, an increase of 26.6 percent compared with the corresponding period last year.

According to the National Statistics Committee of Uzbekistan, finished textile products accounted for the largest share of textile exports, representing 52.2 percent of total shipments during the January-July period. Yarn was the second-largest component, accounting for a further 31.4 percent. The strong performance highlights the growing contribution of textile manufacturing to Uzbekistan’s export activity, particularly as the country continues to expand shipments of highervalue finished products alongside traditional yarn exports. Uzbekistan’s overall foreign trade turnover reached US$49.5 billion during the seven-month period, an increase of US$3.7 billion, or 8.1 percent, compared with the same period of 2025. Textile products accounted for approximately 3.8 percent of the country’s total foreign trade turnover during the reporting period. The sector’s export growth was therefore considerably faster than the expansion of overall foreign trade, indicating its increasing importance within Uzbekistan’s external trade performance. The latest figures also point to a continued shift towards greater value addition in the textile industry, with finished products making up more than half of textile exports. This reflects the sector’s expanding role in Uzbekistan’s efforts to increase manufactured exports and strengthen its presence in international textile markets.

Corporate News

Italian textile machinery at TITAS 2026: Strategic partnership and tailor-made solutions for the Taiwanese market The excellence and innovative capabilities of Italian textile machinery technology are coming to Taipei for TITAS 2026 (Taiwan International Textile & Garment Machinery Show), the leading event for the island’s textile industry and the wider Asian region, scheduled to take place from 6 to 8 October 2026. Italy’s presence at this key event reflects its commitment to strengthening a long-standing and strategic relationship with a local manufacturing industry that has always placed great emphasis on quality and technological research. The Taiwanese market is undergoing a period of profound transformation and evolution. Following a period of global adjustment, the beginning of 2026 saw an extraordinary and vigorous turnaround in exports by Italian machinery manufacturers to the island. This strong sign of renewed momentum confirms that Taiwan’s textile industry is actively seeking reliable technology partners to support its plans for recovery and modernisation. The strength of Italian technologies lies in their ability to adapt with exceptional flexibility to the most sophisticated requirements. In Taiwan, where production has historically been concentrated in the upstream stages of the textile supply chain, Italian spinning solutions continue to account for by far the largest share of local interest, alongside solid demand for finishing machinery and related accessories. This concentration confirms that the flexibility and high degree of customisation offered by Italian technology are among the differentiating factors most highly valued by Taiwanese manufacturers, who need to diversify their production and develop high value-added market niches.

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“The strong increase in Taiwanese demand recorded at the beginning of this year demonstrates the central role played by our technological solutions. In a landscape where operational flexibility and environmental sustainability have become essential requirements for competitiveness, Italian companies are coming to TITAS not merely as machinery suppliers, but as genuine technology partners. We are ready to support Taiwanese manufacturers with highly customised technologies capable of combining maximum resource efficiency with outstanding quality in the final product,” Marco Salvadè, President of ACIMIT. The Italian companies exhibiting in the Italian Pavilion are: COLOR SERVICE, CORINO, CROSTA, DANITECH, FADIS, FERRARO, L.A.I.P., LAFER, POZZI LEOPOLDO, REGGIANI MACCHINE, TEXERA. ACIMIT (Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) was founded in 1945 with the primary objective of promoting the Italian textile machinery

Marco Salvadè, President, ACIMIT

industry by supporting its activities both in Italy and abroad. ACIMIT represents an industrial sector comprising approximately 300 companies (employing nearly 13,000 people) and producing machinery worth a total of approximately €2.1 billion, around 86% of which is exported. The technologies produced are divided into different reference categories: Spinning, Weaving, Knitting, Finishing, Other machinery. Creativity, sustainable technology, reliability, and quality are the hallmarks that have made Italian textile machinery a global leader.

Corporate News

TMAS welcomes ReSpin as Swedish textile recycling accelerates As the latest company to join TMAS – the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – ReSpin has this year established what is just the latest in a succession of Swedish innovations shaping the country into one of Europe’s most sophisticated ecosystems for circular textiles. In May this year, Holma Spinning Mill, located in Forsa just outside Hudiksvall, was granted SEK 77.3 million in funding through the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency to establish Sweden’s first industrial spinning line for recycled textile fibres. Holma Spinning Mill is part of Holma Förvaltning, which is co-owned by ReSpin. Sister company Holma Helsingland brings more than a century of experience in spinning, twisting, dyeing and yarn production.

RespinJenny ReSpin, headquartered in Undersåker, in northern Sweden’s Jämtland, has developed and patented a new mechanical recycling technology called RespinJenny which transforms textile waste into new fibres suitable for yarn production. ReSpin was founded in 2020 by Åsa Strandberg, who has more than 30 years of experience in the textile industry and for the past 15 years has been on a mission to make textiles circular. After 17 years at H&M, she chose to leave the company when growing concerns about the environmental impact of the fashion industry grew too big to be ignored.

Soon, however, a more fundamental problem became clear – there were no viable recycling methods available on the market. Chemical initiatives were emerging and mechanical recycling existed, but only at a very low level. “While many believed chemistry was the solution, I saw untapped potential in mechanical methods and a remark from a machine researcher that anything which can be done by hand can be done mechanically became the spark that confirmed this direction,” she explains. “I then initiated several research projects together with industry and academia, including the Universities of Borås, Linköping and Luleå, to further explore this idea.” “RespinJenny uses no water or chemicals, has low energy consumption and is based on preserving as much fibre quality as possible from waste textiles,” adds TMAS Secretary General, Therese Premler-Andersson.

In 2010 she launched Saiboo, a company which has a focus on the B2B production of garments, selling them and then taking them back for reuse.

“It is designed to enable local, smallscale and resource efficient recycling closer to where textile waste is generated. The Swedish Environmental Protection Agency’s funding is an important step in scaling fibre-to-fibre recycling industrially and demonstrating that circular textile materials can be produced on a larger scale with low climate impact.”

With full control over materials and design, the difficult sorting problem was solved for Saiboo from the start, and driven by the desire to push the industry further, Åsa began collaborating with Mid Sweden University in Östersund on how to design for recycling.

“Mechanical recycling alone is not enough to achieve textile-to-textile recycling – without the ability to spin recycled fibres into yarn, it is impossible to weave or knit new fabrics, which is why Holma Spinning Mill represents a key part of building a complete circular textile value chain.”

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Rather than focusing on a single breakthrough technology, Swedish companies, including TMAS members, have developed expertise across the entire value chain – from collection and automated sorting through to fibre-tofibre recycling, testing, product development and policy research. Underpinning this has been strong collaboration between Swedish industry and academia. “The University of Borås – and particularly its Swedish School of Textiles – has become one of Europe’s leading centres for circular textile research and Borås is also home to a number of other TMAS members, such as the ACG Group and Eton Systems, who are driving innovation through advanced automation and involved in many cooperative projects between industry and academia in Sweden,” Therese Premler-Andersson observes. In conclusion, Åsa Strandberg stresses the great value in now being part of a network where knowledge, innovation and collaboration are central. “TMAS brings together many of Sweden’s leading companies and experts, all playing an important role in shaping the future of textile production technology,” she says. “As ReSpin moves towards industrialisation, we see great value in joining TMAS, because the transition to circular textile systems requires cooperation across the entire value chain, and the association provides an important platform for that dialogue.”

Corporate News

YKK launches No. 3 size of QuickFree® click-TRAK® Magnetic zipper globally New smaller size expands use in lightweight garments YKK Corporation (Headquarters: Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo; President: Koichi Matsushima; hereafter, YKK) has begun the global rollout of the No. 3 size of its QuickFree® click-TRAK Magnetic zipper, expanding availability beyond China for the first time. While maintaining the same functionality and ease of operation, the No. 3 size is approximately 60% the size of the No. 5 size *1. This enables applications in lightweight garments, sportswear, hooded apparel, and other similar uses.

*2: Magnets embedded in the open parts

*1: The insertion parts are 75% smaller in height and 83% smaller in width than those of the No. 5 size. ®

Three Key Functions and Ease of Operation of QuickFree click-TRAK® Magnetic

QuickFree® click-TRAK® Magnetic features magnets embedded in the left and right open parts, allowing them to automatically attract each other through magnetic force*2. In addition, users can easily remove the garment simply by pulling the zipper chain apart from either side without lowering the slider*3. The product also features a release function in which the slider disengages when a certain amount of force is

applied to either side, automatically opening the zipper*4.

ABOUT YKK YKK solves the most complex fastening and attaching challenges. Since the company’s founding in Tokyo in 1934, YKK has continuously set industry standards for quality, innovation, and sustainability in the production of zippers, plastic hardware, hook and loop fasteners, webbing tapes, and snap and buttons. YKK’s “solutions-first” approach QuickFree® click-TRAK® Magnetic No.3 leverages its extensive product and machinery portfolio, engineering expertise, and integrated production, service, and supply chain solutions in approximately 70 countries/regions, leaving it well-positioned to support the growth of customers of all sizes and adapt to their evolving business needs. Guided by the CYCLE OF GOODNESS® philosophy – no one prospers without rendering benefit to others – YKK aims to contribute to a sustainable society through its products and manufacturing operations and constantly seeks new ways to serve the changing needs of its customers while at the same time investing in its employees and giving back to its communities.

*3: Quick Release Function

Corporate News

OEKO-TEX® Annual Report 2025/2026: Traceability becomes a market requirement Trust is built where facts can be verified. Transparency and traceability have been part of the OEKO-TEX® strategy for years, and that course is confirmed once again: new regulatory requirements in key markets such as the USA, Canada and the EU increasingly demand that companies fully document where their products come from and how they were made. Traceability is thus shifting from competitive advantage to a prerequisite for market access. Those who can prove the origin of their articles from fibre to finished product are better positioned to navigate customs controls, regulatory investigations and potential trade restrictions. The new OEKO-TEX® Annual Report shows how this commitment translated into concrete figures over the 2025/2026 financial year. OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON: Supply chain presence in more than 20 countries Traceable organic cotton now spans global production networks: supply chain partners holding OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON certified cotton are available in more than 20 countries. What stands out is not only this geographic reach, but also the growing volume of OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON, which already exceeds 33 million kilograms at ginning level. This is also reflected in the number of certificates issued, which rose by more than 200 per cent compared to last year. This is a clear signal of growing demand for traceability and digitalisation in the organic cotton segment. The partnership with TextileGenesis has played a part in this: it is driving the digitalisation of transactions for OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON, making processes more secure, datadriven and scalable. The token-based technology reduces the administrative burden of customers across the supply chain and strengthens confidence in their sustainability claims.

OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN: verified traceability with double-digit growth The trend towards traceability is equally evident for OEKOTEX® MADE IN GREEN. Demand for the product label, which provides consumers with verified supply chain data, grew by more than 13 per cent. This increase comes at a time when transparency and traceability are increasingly required by regulation: from 27 September 2026, the EU Directive on Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition (EmpCo, EU 2024/825) will require sustainability labels to be based on certification schemes, whereas the schemes’ requirements are verified by independent

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third parties. OEKO-TEX ® MADE IN GREEN and all other OEKO-TEX ® certificates and product labels will remain legally compliant beyond that date.

OEKO-TEX® CEO: "Trust is our hardest currency." "Developments in our industry confirm that trust is becoming our hardest currency," says Dr. Alfred J. Beerli, CEO of OEKOTEX®. "A market full of complex regulation can feel daunting, but for us, it represents a real opportunity. At OEKO-TEX®, we have always believed that genuine progress happens when transparency goes beyond mere compliance." On the EmpCo Directive, Dr. Beerli adds: "What becomes law in September 2026, we have been demanding for more than three decades. We are exceptionally well placed to support companies and brands in meeting these strict new requirements." Alongside expanding traceability, OEKO-TEX® also intensified its investment in product and quality controls over the past financial year. Further details are available in the 2025/2026 Annual Report.

Corporate News

New 6020 ceramic oiler: Optimised yarn quality for low-titer applications

Designed specifically for PA6 and PA6.6 applications: The new Barmag Type 6020 ceramic oiler.

With the new type 6020 ceramic oiler, Barmag is introducing a powerful addition to its product portfolio for processing PA6 and PA6.6 yarns. The solution is specifically designed for low-titer applications in the range of 5 to 100 denier. Technological advancement for stable processes A key feature of the new model is the particularly filament-friendly yarn inlet area, where the yarn is saturated with oil before it comes into contact with the ceramic, a prerequisite for fluff-free processing. The three-waves geometry also ensures minimal yarn contact. The integrated ceramic shaft completes the design, unlike other solutions, where metal shafts are glued in place, and eliminates typical sources of error such as clogged oil lines or ceramic parts falling out. In combination with optimised thread guidance, the geometry of the 6020 ceramic oiler ensures uniform and efficient spinfinish application with

minimal spray-off and very high application uniformity (low OCV).

Significant quality and efficiency advantages The new ceramic oiler was specifically developed for demanding production environments and offers significant practical advantages. It ensures consistently high yarn quality through stable process parameters such as high spinfinish application rate (OPU) and a good distribution uniformity (OCV), while also enabling filament-friendly processing without yarn breaks or loop formations. Thanks to the significantly reduced spray-off, especially in the sensitive lowtiter range, material losses are minimised, oil contamination of the quench and winding areas is reduced to a minimum, and process reliability is increased. Furthermore, the solution stands out for its ease of use: A clearly visible and easily accessible thread guide facilitates threading, while precise adjustment options allow for quick and reliable setup during operation.

Successfully tested in practice Initial applications at international customers demonstrate the performance of the new oiler. In tests with PA6 and PA6.6 POY yarns, completely spray-offfree processing and significantly more uniform yarn tension were achieved. Furthermore, an increase in the spinfinish application rate of approximately 23% was achieved compared to standard solutions. Its performance was also confirmed in applications with PET POY fulldull and very critical flatyarn: In a direct comparison of various suppliers, the 6020 nozzle was the only solution to deliver a stable performance without any loops or BF. With the 6020 spinfinish nozzle, Barmag offers a forward-looking solution for low-titer applications in filament production. The integrated ceramic shaft, combined with optimised yarn guidance and excellent process parameters, enables a sustainable improvement in yarn quality, process reliability, and production efficiency.

Corporate News

Asia Pacific Rayon and TOTON showcase the creative potential of viscose and lyocell in contemporary fashion

Asia Pacific Rayon (APR), a leading producer of viscose-rayon fibre, has partnered with celebrated Indonesian fashion designer Toton Januar for the launch of his latest collection, TOTON 2027: KALA, inspired by Javanese and Balinese mythology demonstrating the versatility of cellulose fibres in contemporary fashion. The collection features 10 curated looks crafted from viscose- and lyocellbased fabrics, exploring how material characteristics influence silhouette, movement and structure. Through the collection, TOTON showcases how cellulose fibres can be transformed into elevated, contemporary designs while delivering comfort, versatility and refined aesthetics. The collection highlights the growing role of cellulose fibres in premium fashion, demonstrating how nature-based fibres can enable designers to achieve both creative expression and functional performance. “I have always enjoyed exploring new materials for every collection, and working with viscose- and lyocell-based fabrics has been an exciting experience. These materials bring a fresh perspective to the design process, offering versatility that adapts beautifully to different silhouettes and creative approaches,” said

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Toton Januar, Co-Founder and Designer of TOTON. “With this new collection, I want to show that functional and comfortable materials can also become powerful expressions of artistry and transformation in fashion. Working with APR has given us greater opportunities to push material innovation while creating collections that are increasingly relevant to the future of Indonesia's fashion industry.” The partnership reflects APR's commitment to strengthening Indonesia's downstream textile and fashion ecosystem by demonstrating the capabilities of nature-based, eco-friendly fibres across a broader range of applications, including contemporary and premium fashion. “Through this collaboration with Toton, we are demonstrating how viscose and lyocell fibres can support creative expression while meeting the performance and sustainability expectations of modern fashion. Working with designers such as Toton helps expand the possibilities of cellulose fibres into new and premium fashion segments,” said Sachin Malik, Business Head of Asia Pacific Rayon. As designers increasingly place greater emphasis on material selection, the relationship between fibre, fabric and

design continues to shape the future of fashion. Through TOTON 2027: KALA, APR, a member of the RGE group of companies founded by Sukanto Tanoto, and TOTON demonstrate how thoughtful material choices can influence every stage of the creative process – from silhouette and movement to texture and form – while delivering the aesthetic, comfort and performance expected in contemporary fashion. This collaboration underscores the potential of cellulose fibres as a foundation for innovation, enabling designers to create collections that combine creativity, functionality and material excellence.

About Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) Asia Pacific Rayon (APR), based in Indonesia, is Asia's first fully integrated viscose rayon producer, from plantation to fibre. APR, which has a capacity of 325,000 tons per year, is located in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau Province, Indonesia. APR is committed to becoming a leading viscose staple fibre producer with the principles of sustainability, transparency and operational excellence, and serving the interests of the community, country and climate, while providing value to customers. APR is part of the RGE group of companies.

Dyes and Chemicals

Archroma wins ICIS Innovation Award for sulfur dye breakthrough FiberColors® creates sustainable dyes from wool waste to advance circularity Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals, has won a coveted 2026 ICIS Innovation Award for Best Product Innovation from a Large Company for FiberColors®. These high-performance sulfur dyes are synthesised from preconsumer wool waste, reducing industry reliance on petroleum-based inputs while contributing to the circular economy by upcycling unwanted wool that farmers would otherwise pay to dispose of. With FiberColors®, Archroma has extended its patented EarthColors® method of bio-based feedstock substitution from plant residue to coarse, noncommercial wool. Using a minimum of 50% wool waste as a primary feedstock instead of conventional petroleum-derived raw materials, it produces high-quality biosynthetic dyes that deliver the same dyeing and fastness performance as regular sulfur dyes, with no negative impact on water consumption, energy consumption or waste generation during dye manufacturing. “Archroma has led the evolution of sulfur dyeing for over a century by advancing what’s technically possible and proving it can pay for itself. FiberColors® is that approach in practice – using an agricultural waste output with high disposal costs to replace a petroleumbased input and produce a dye that performs at scale for mills and brands.

We’re honoured it has been recognised by ICIS,” said Julio Perales, Technical & Product Segment Manager Denim, Archroma.

first FiberColors® collection in April of this year. Known for its distinctive aesthetics and responsible production, the ORTA brand is using the dyes to help solve a

FiberColors® dyes can be applied across multiple processes, including exhaust dyeing, continuous dyeing, denim coloration and textile printing for cellulosic fibres such as cotton, viscose, linen, bamboo and kapok, as well as wool. The palette offers warm shades for entire collections, from jeans and chinos to T-shirts, hoodies and home textiles. FiberColors® products meet the bluesign® criteria, are GOTS approved, and are published on the ZDHC Gateway with Conformance Level 3.

waste problem for sheep farmers.

Premium Türkiye-based denim manufacturer Orta Anadolu debuted its

fully traceable sustainability story.

Wool waste is a major problem worldwide as sheep farmers are forced to pay to dispose of fleeces that are not commercially valuable. In Europe alone, three-quarters of the region’s 200 million kg annual wool production is wasted. FiberColors® transforms this liability into an industrial input. Archroma can produce 10 kg of liquid FiberColors® from 1 kg of wool waste – diverting it from disposal and giving mills and brands a scalable and FiberColors® reflects a 40-year commitment to eco-friendly sulfur dye innovation at Archroma’s Castellbisbal plant in Spain. The R&D team behind FiberColors® also developed EarthColors®. Introduced in 2017, EarthColors® has been adopted by more than 50 global brands, including Ralph Lauren, Kathmandu, G-Star RAW, Esprit and Ugg, upcycling over 60 tonnes of plant residue from the herbal and food industries. The ICIS Innovation Awards recognise innovation that delivers impact and advances sustainability across the chemicals and energy sectors.

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Dyes and Chemicals

bluesign updates chemical reference lists with stronger PFAS restrictions

bluesign has published the 2026 editions of its three core chemical reference lists, introducing updated substance limits and testing requirements in line with the latest scientific findings and regulatory developments. The revised bluesign System Black Limits (BSBL) Version 8.0, bluesign System Substances List (BSSL) Version 17.0, and bluesign Restricted Substances List (RSL) Version 17.0 incorporate new toxicological and ecological data, updated analytical methods and recommendations from the bluesign Chemical Expert Group. The most significant changes concern per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). According to bluesign, the updated lists expand the PFAS phase-out chapter, revise recommended testing methods and introduce a new section distinguishing fluorinated non-PFAS dyestuffs from PFAS compounds. The PFAS limits have also been aligned with the French PFAS regulation, Sweden's proposed national restrictions and the proposed EU-wide PFAS restriction. Additional updates include new restrictions for flame retardants such as

Dechlorane Plus, new colourant restrictions including Basic Green 4 (Malachite Green), and revised limits for selected amines, arylamines, isocyanates, biocides and metals including mercury, nickel, antimony and chromium. For the first time, the lists also include a dedicated chapter covering substance limits for jewellery, aligned with the AFIRM RSL, as well as newly identified Substances of Very High Concern (SVHCs) and updated analytical testing recommendations. The three reference lists serve different purposes within the textile supply chain. The BSBL defines threshold limits for substances in chemical formulations such as dyes and auxiliaries, the BSSL specifies substance limits for finished textile products, and the RSL serves as the consumer safety reference used by brands and retailers for purchasing specifications and product testing. The revised BSBL requirements will become effective by 1 July 2027, while the updated BSSL and RSL requirements for finished products are scheduled to take effect by 1 July 2028.

About bluesign bluesign is an independent system that helps the textile and apparel industry reduce its impact on people and the planet. Rather than looking only at the finished product, bluesign works at the source: the chemicals, materials, and processes used to make textiles. Founded in Switzerland in 2000 and an SGS company since 2008, bluesign works globally with brands, manufacturers, and chemical suppliers through a single, connected system. It assesses production processes against the bluesign Criteria, covering chemical inputs, water and energy, air emissions and wastewater, occupational health, and management systems, and supports companies working to improve over time. Products, articles, and chemical products whose production processes meet the bluesign Criteria can carry the bluepass certification mark. Anyone can scan a bluepass mark to see what it means at bluesign.com/verify.

Heimtextil Trends 27/28: ‘Home-Maxxing’ between performance and respite Sleep better, recover faster, live more efficiently: the desire for optimisation has long since reached our homes. Under the title ‘Home-Maxxing – The Performance of Everyday Living’, Heimtextil Trends 27/28 show how our relationship with efficiency-driven thinking and technology is influencing the design of spaces and textiles. The more sleep, wellness, routines, materials and spaces are optimised, the stronger the desire for a home that does not demand even more of us. The demands placed on spaces are becoming more varied. In an increasingly fast-paced and digital everyday life, they are expected to provide a sense of orientation, meet functional requirements and, at the same time, offer respite. ‘Home-Maxxing’ addresses this tension. Textiles regulate light, absorb sound or filter air. At the same time, there is growing demand for materials that are pleasant to the touch, durable and do not create additional pressure to optimise. Whether at home, in a hotel, in the

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workplace or in healthcare, interior design must strike a new balance between performance and human needs. Together with the Milan-based design platform Alcova, Heimtextil translates this development into three trend directions: Staged Competence, Inside, Out and Hyper Presence. They range from visibly staged technical performance and exposed fastenings to materials whose tactility, texture and longevity take centre stage. ‘Home-Maxxing captures two opposing expectations of our time: the drive for ever greater performance and the need for respite. Heimtextil Trends 27/28 broaden the perspective on textile performance: it is not only about what materials and products can do, but also about how their function can be understood and their material qualities experienced. This opens up new avenues for the design and development of future products and spatial concepts,’ says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt.

Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies, Messe Frankfurt.

01 Staged Competence Functionality is meant to be seen. Staged Competence describes an aesthetic in which technical expertise does not remain in the background but is deliberately staged. Textiles and surfaces show what they can do – and, increasingly, how they do it. Technical codes, numbers, symbols and micrographics become design elements. What matters is not only the actual

Fairs and Exhibitions function of a material. Its performance should also be apparent from the outside. Anything that has been tested, engineered and optimised is allowed to look the part. Durability, technical sophistication and verifiable quality become part of the aesthetic. The colours reinforce this technically informed character. Cool blues and greens, mineral shades and pale, almost synthetic colours evoke hardware, outdoor equipment and performance materials. A bright acid yellow provides a deliberate accent.

02 Inside, Out What lies within the things that surround us? Inside, Out responds to a world in which technologies and digital systems are becoming increasingly complex and difficult to understand. The trend counters this opacity with a new openness: structures become legible and connections visible. Screws, straps, seams, cables, zips and other fastenings are no longer concealed, but deliberately become part of the design. A cover may reveal that it can be removed and replaced. Technology does not have to disappear behind a flawless surface. This colour palette also thrives on visible contrasts. Dark charcoal and deep graphite evoke steel and industrial components. A saturated red and a soft

violet provide almost artificial-looking contrasts. The palette is complemented by a muted, cool green-grey.

03 Hyper Presence After all this optimisation comes the counter-movement. Hyper Presence turns attention to what cannot be measured: how a fabric feels against the skin, how a material ages or the atmosphere created by texture. Beeswax-treated fabrics demonstrate how powerfully materials can engage the senses: when warmed, they release the natural scent of honey and propolis. The trend responds to constant digital overstimulation with a

deliberate physical presence. Materials accordingly take centre stage: natural fibres, rough, richly textured surfaces, wool, leather and wood-based textiles engage the body and the senses. Creases, patina and signs of wear are not flaws, but part of their character. The colours, too, leave the digital world behind. Deep rust, burnt orange, ochre, dusty pink and a pale, warm offwhite evoke fire, clay and oxidised metal. The palette is warm, earthy and calming, making it the clearest counterpoint to the cool, technical aesthetic of the other two trend directions.

Yarn Expo Autumn 2026 draws to a close, weaving sustainable innovation into global sourcing Yarn Expo Autumn 2026 concluded with approximately 600 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions, connecting with nearly 22,000 visitors from 110 represented markets, bringing the textile industry’s evolving material agenda into sharper focus. Held alongside Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition, CHIC and PH Value, the fair connected upstream fibre and yarn innovation with fabric development, garment production and fashion-market demand. Its broad product offering enabled buyers to assess recycled, biobased and regenerated fibres alongside performance-led solutions, demonstrating how responsible choices can meet practical requirements across textile applications. Industry players from across the textile spectrum made new business connections, supporting crossborder sourcing dialogue and the commercialisation of innovation. Speaking at the fair’s conclusion, Ms Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, commented: “This edition showed that sustainability and

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performance are no longer separate product categories; buyers increasingly expect credible solutions that deliver both. By bringing material innovators, processors, spinners, brands and downstream buyers together face to face, Yarn Expo Autumn 2026 has turned shared priorities into practical discussions and tangible business outcomes. We are pleased that through this exchange, our platform is helping to create new commercial partnerships across a more responsive textile value chain.”

Where circularity, bio-based inputs and performance converge From plant-based polyester to recycled PET and regenerated fibres, exhibitors showed that lower-impact solutions can still deliver performance, aesthetics and traceability. Notable displays included the 100% recycled PET deja™ range (Indorama Ventures – Thailand), plant-based polyester and NANODESIGN® technology (Toray Industries – Japan), and traceable recycled metallic yarns (The Lurex

Company – UK). Complementing these international offerings, domestic exhibitor Hangzhou Benma Chemfibre and Spinning presented regenerated polyester made from PET bottles and textile scrap, widening recycled materials options for fashion, activewear, home textiles and nonwovens. The returning Uzbekistan Pavilion, comprising eight exhibitors, highlighted the country’s vertically integrated cottontextile sector, from domestic cultivation to weaving and garment production. Elsewhere, exhibitors illustrated the crossborder networks behind today’s supply chains: Vietnam’s Importeer International supplied imported cotton from Australia, Brazil, India and the US alongside virgin and recycled synthetics, while Egyptian Co For Flax And Its Products showcased local flax processed into fibres and yarns for export. Together, the wide range on offer enabled buyers to evaluate origin, processing capabilities and sustainability credentials directly, supporting more informed sourcing decisions – as did the

Fairs and Exhibitions fair’s fringe programme. Organised by the China Chemical Fibre Association, the Tongkun – China Fibre Fashion Trends Display Zone presented more than 300 new fibre and yarn samples. Meanwhile, the New Fibre New World – Textile Materials Innovation Activities explored four themes, including temperatureregulating fibre innovation and resource recycling and reuse, highlighting sustainable material development, greener production and next-generation applications.

Exhibitors’ experiences “It is very good to be back at this show. Lurex is a globally registered brand, and we are presenting our range of metallic and special-effect yarns, including 100% recycled Lurex yarns. We have already met potential new customers here, as well as existing customers from various markets. The fair allows buyers to experience the handle and softness of our specialised yarns directly, which is particularly important. It has been a valuable opportunity to reconnect with the industry and introduce our products to the market.” Ms Sally Bugg, Commercial Director, Lurex Company, UK. “This is our first time exhibiting at Yarn Expo Autumn. We are a flax manufacturer offering a range of 100% flax products, from flax planting through to spinning materials. The fair has presented an efficient opportunity to meet buyers and industry contacts from China and other international markets in one place. In particular, we have met many visitors from Pakistan, a market where we had not previously had many opportunities to connect. Participating also gives us useful feedback on what buyers are looking for, including certification requirements and market trends.” Ms Rania El Nouehi, Export Manager, Egyptian Co For Flax And Its Products, Egypt. “This is one of the yarn industry’s largest and most important fairs, and particularly valuable to us as China is one of our key markets. We are seeing growing interest from buyers in our sustainable products, including recycled polyester, regenerative cotton and organic cotton yarns, and they are excited to explore these newer developments. The fair gives us a

valuable platform to present these products, understand changing market needs and develop new potential business relationships. We are always happy with the results and look forward to returning next year.” Mr Neeraj Gupta, Head of Exports, PT. Indo-Rama Synthetics Tbk, Indonesia

Visitors’ comments

develop business with the suppliers we have met, and we would definitely consider returning.” Mr Ebrahim Shakoor, Sales Manager, Peachbelt International, Pakistan. “As a garment manufacturer with knitting, dyeing and garment facilities, we consume mainly cotton yarn, with 95% of our consumption already in sustainable

“I return to Yarn Expo Autumn every year because I consistently find the products I need. Our company sources products such as DTY, nylon, polyester fibre, cotton yarn and other textile products for markets including Brazil, Mexico, Colombia and Peru. More than 50 of our suppliers exhibit here, making it an important annual opportunity to meet them face to face, maintain our business relationships and review products directly. I consider this the most organised exhibition I have visited. This is why it remains an essential sourcing platform for our business each year.” Mr Adrian Rios, Owner, Rios Trading Import and Export Co Ltd, Brazil.

products such as BCI, organic, recycled

“Our trading company sources TC yarns, 100% cotton yarns and more for the Pakistani and Canadian markets. The fair offers a very wide selection, with exhibitors from different countries, and I have met many good suppliers here. Sustainability is also an important part of our sourcing, and we have found recycled-polyester yarn suppliers with GRS certification at the fair. This gives us access to both the conventional and recycled yarn products we are looking for. I believe there are opportunities to

Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition, CHIC,

and other certified fibres. The fair showcases a very good selection of ecofriendly products and sustainability trends. Our R&D and fabric development teams are visiting different booths to search for new products and innovations, which we can develop for future collections. We have learned new things about the industry and found valuable suppliers here.” Mr Mahedi Hassan, Deputy Manager (Sourcing & Material Sustainability), MASCO, Bangladesh. Yarn Expo Autumn was held concurrently with Intertextile Shanghai and PH Value. The four fairs brought the fibre and yarn, apparel fabrics and accessories, fashion, and knitted garments industries together under one roof, with the resultant synergy allowing exhibitors and buyers to maximise their business opportunities. Yarn Expo Autumn is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the SubCouncil of Textile Industry, CCPIT.

Fairs and Exhibitions

20 start-ups selected for CEMATEX Start-Up Grant at ITMA 2027 Emerging innovators from nine countries will showcase technologies across six areas of textile and garment manufacturing.

CEMATEX has selected 20 emerging start-ups from nine countries to receive the CEMATEX Start-Up Grant and showcase their innovations at Start-Up Valley during ITMA 2027 in Hanover. Their participation will be fully funded by CEMATEX, giving promising early-stage companies access to the world’s leading textile and garment technology platform. The selected start-ups span seven product areas: Colourants & Chemicals, Fibres, Yarns & Fabrics, Garment Making, Recycling, Software & Automation, and Testing. While they address different challenges across the value chain, they share a common focus on sustainability and circularity. Across their technologies, sustainability is increasingly embedded in the way new materials, processes and production systems are being developed, rather than treated as a standalone consideration. The innovations address challenges ranging from chemistry and

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resource consumption to textile recycling, traceability, and production efficiency.

Meet the 20 start-ups

break down in the environment or the body, and restrictions covering a widely used PFAS sub-group in clothing take effect under EU rules from October 2026.(1)

Their innovations can be seen in solutions addressing some of the textile and garment industry's persistent sustainability challenges.

Others address the processing stages that consume the most water, heat and chemistry. Textile production accounts for around 20% of the world's clean water pollution, mostly from dyeing(2), much of it from the processing chemicals a conventional dyebath depends on. SwitchDye's CO2-switchable dyes reduce chemical use as well as water and energy demand while working with existing dyeing equipment.

Amphico is developing alternatives to substances the industry has long relied upon. Its PFAS-free membrane is designed to keep performance fabrics waterproof and breathable, while its colour platform introduces colour through weaving rather than dyeing. PFAS (perand polyfluoroalkyl substances), often called “forever chemicals”, do not readily

Textile-to-textile recycling is another area attracting innovation. Recyc'Elit addresses the challenge of separating(3) blended fabrics by turning them back into pure monomers for new recycled polyester, while recovering co-materials such as elastane and cotton. Refiberd, meanwhile, combines software and hyperspectral imaging to identify fabric

The 20 recipients of the CEMATEX Start-Up Grant are: Amphico, BioFluff, Eeden, EverDye, Fibarcode, Gemell Technology, Innovo Fiber, NunoX, Re.Solution, Recyc’Elit, Refiberd, ReSpin, Revoltech, RubyLab, Sages, Silana, Solena Materials, Sparxell, SwitchDye and Tintte.

Fairs and Exhibitions composition, helping recyclers determine the materials they are handling.

investors who can help take promising ideas towards industrial adoption and scale.”

Sustainability and circularity are common threads connecting the 20 companies, regardless of where they operate across the value chain. Many of their innovations also intersect with ITMA 2027's other focus areas: Advanced Materials, Automation & Digital Future, and Human-Centric Manufacturing.

Dr Christian P. Schindler, Director General, International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), a member of the Start-Up Valley selection panel, said: “The quality of the submissions reflected both the pace and breadth of innovation emerging across the sector. We saw solutions with strong potential for industrial application, scalability and measurable impact across different parts of the textile value chain. Selecting just 20 companies from such a diverse application pool was a highly competitive process.”

Supporting emerging innovation

Mr Alex Zucchi, President, CEMATEX

Mr Alex Zucchi, President of CEMATEX, said: “What strikes me about this group is not simply that they are working on sustainability, but that many cannot imagine innovating any other way. That tells us where the industry is heading. Through the CEMATEX Start-Up Grant, we are giving these companies the opportunity to bring their technologies directly to the manufacturers, brands and

The CEMATEX Start-Up Grant fully funds the recipients’ participation in StartUp Valley, including a purpose-built exhibition stand and supporting services, together with promotion through ITMA's global marketing and PR channels. Selected companies may also be considered for speaking and profiling opportunities at the Innovator Xchange. At ITMA 2027, the 20 start-ups will showcase their innovations alongside established technology manufacturers from across the textile and garment manufacturing value chain. This creates opportunities for direct engagement with

Dr Christian P. Schindler, Director General, International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF)

manufacturers, brands, investors, research organisations and technology partners who can move their technologies into commercial use. Company profiles for the start-ups are available on the ITMA 2027 website here. www.itma.com

Sources 1 EU PFAS restriction, Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/2462, adding entry 79 to Annex XVII of REACH. 2

European Parliament, Fast fashion: EU laws for sustainable textile consumption. 3

OECD (2024), Extended Producer Responsibility in the Garments Sector.

Features

Groz-Beckert: Your partner for the entire weaving process Groz-Beckert is a system provider for the entire weaving process – from weaving preparation to the actual weaving operation. With its comprehensive product portfolio, the company offers solutions for virtually every weaving application. In the field of weaving accessories, the range includes reeds, heald frames, healds, drop wires, warp stop motions and leno systems. For weaving preparation, Groz-Beckert also supplies tying and drawing-in machines.

KnotMaster

A broad reed portfolio for diverse applications To meet the diverse requirements of weaving mills, Groz-Beckert manufactures a broad range of reeds, including flat reeds, air jet reeds and customised solutions. One of the company's unique features is its in-house DLC coating, which is designed to maximise performance by increasing wear resistance and ensuring consistent coating quality. The latest development in the reed portfolio is the fine reed. Characterised by its high density, it is used for the production of particularly fine technical fabrics, for example in technical filtration, membrane technology, solar cells and touchscreens.

Heald frame solutions for increasing machine speeds As weaving machine speeds continue to rise, process stability and component performance are becoming increasingly important. To address these challenges, Groz-Beckert offers individual solutions with its ALtop Hybrid heald frames. Heald

frames from the ALtop Hybrid series feature carbon-fibre rods integrated into specially designed aluminium profiles to increase the bending strength and stiffness of the frame staves, making them suitable for high-speed weaving applications. In addition, an optional heald damping system helps prevent Air jet reed heald breakage.

Automation for efficient weaving preparation Alongside increasing machine speeds, automation is becoming a key factor in weaving mills. For automated tying operations, Groz-Beckert offers the KnotMaster and compatible tying frames.

With its numerous automatic functions and easy maintenance, the KnotMaster significantly reduces weaving machine downtime, enabling mills to resume production faster and with less manual effort. Another practical benefit is the conversion kit for former Fischer-Poege customers. This solution enables weaving mills to upgrade their Fischer-Poege tying machines to the more powerful KnotMaster without having to invest in a new tying frame.

Worldwide service and support

ALtop Hybrid heald frame

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To support customers worldwide, Groz-Beckert maintains a global network of subsidiaries and service stations, ensuring local support, short response times and reliable delivery.

One in four U.S. cotton acres provides field-level data through the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol has announced that 2.34 million planted acres now provide field-level data through the program for the 2026 crop year, representing nearly one in four of the 9.85 million total U.S. cotton acres planted this season. This reflects the continued commitment of U.S. cotton growers to responsible production, even as they navigate a challenging economic landscape. Despite facing fluctuating input costs, unpredictable weather, and shifting market dynamics, growers are choosing to formalize and voluntarily provide data on their sustainability practices. This participation speaks to the resilience of U.S. growers and their commitment to securing the long-term credibility of U.S. cotton in the global marketplace. By participating in the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, growers gain access to actionable, data-driven insights that help build greater visibility into their environmental footprint, refine farming practices, and improve operational efficiency.

“The growers enrolled in the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol are the foundation of a more transparent and responsible U.S. cotton supply chain,” said Marjory Walker, Co-Director of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. “Their dedication, especially given the challenges facing the cotton industry this season, is what makes it possible for brands and retailers worldwide to source independently verified, traceable U.S. Cotton and demonstrate meaningful progress against their sustainability commitments.” The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol serves both ends of the cotton supply chain. For brands and retailers, the program’s traceability solution provides the ability to track U.S. Cotton, Protocol Cotton, and now U.S. Regen Cotton, to finished product. First announced as a pilot in 2025, the Trust Protocol’s Field Partner Program was established to formally recognize and verify regenerative agriculture practices at the field level, building a scalable pathway for U.S. Regenerative Cotton to move through the supply chain. As the program moves beyond its pilot phase, it

is providing brands and retailers with access to verified, traceable regenerative cotton at the scale needed. This fiber also provides brands and retailers with the opportunity to help meet sourcing and reporting goals while responding to growing consumer and stakeholder interest. “What is most encouraging about where the program is today is that through the Field Partner Program, we are not just recognizing responsible production through the field-level data provided by our growers, we are building a scalable, credible pathway for regenerative cotton,” Walker said. “The Field Partner Program brings the sciencebased verification and market connectivity that allow this work to be recognized, rewarded, and acted on by brands.” The Trust Protocol currently has more than 2,800 mill and manufacturer members across 49 countries and more than 55 global companies and their brands, including Ralph Lauren, PVH Corp., Walmart, adidas, Under Armour, Levi’s, Carhartt, and Gymshark.

Features

Rethinking workwear performance from the fiber up Today’s workwear demands are greater than ever. Workforces are having to navigate new challenges every day – challenges that require them to pivot and adapt. Companies and employees are demanding more from their workwear. For mills, garment makers and brands, the challenge is to build performance into the fabric itself without compromising protection and norms. The LYCRA Company’s branded fiber portfolio is designed to help address key workwear priorities, from durable fit and static control to visibility, moisture management and lightweight warmth, when used in appropriate constructions and validated through final fabric and garment testing. Comfort and freedom of movement are essential in garments worn for long shifts and physically demanding tasks. LYCRA® T400® fiber is engineered to provide comfortable stretch without compromising durability. It can withstand industrial laundering (under ISO 15797), and offers excellent shape retention, ensuring garments maintain their fit and appearance even after extensive use. And, thanks to its unique “snowman”like shape, this fiber provides permanent moisture wicking, delivering breathable, quick-drying fabrics. LYCRA® T400® fiber is compatible with established polyester recycling processes. In controlled tests, LYCRA® T400® fiber components were blended with standard polyester and re-spun into new polyester fibers, setting the stage for circularity For users looking to include more sustainable ingredients LYCRA® T400® EcoMade fiber is also available. Made with at least 50% recycled PET bottles and 15% renewable plant-based materials, it also delivers permanent stretch, recovery, moisture-wicking, and breathability. In workplaces where static control is required, fiber selection can also play an

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important role. LYCRA® ANTISTATIC fiber, a recently launched product, is a special spandex fiber that delivers all-day comfort while effectively dissipating static charge, replacing the rigid carbon and silver fibers typically found in antistatic workwear. It supports fabrics to meet EN 1149, IEC 61340-4-9, ANSI/ESD S20.20, and other global antistatic standards. For workers in industrial environments and clean rooms, they get the benefit of stretch comfort without the fear of dangerous sparking. Comfort is also closely linked to temperature control, moisture management and heat retention. In hot conditions, COOLMAX® EcoMade fiber is specially engineered to move moisture away from the body towards the outer fabric layer, where it can dry faster. Thanks to the structure of the fiber, this moisture-wicking benefit is permanent, it won't wash out over the lifetime of the garment, even under the stress of industrial laundering (we tested it under ISO 15797). COOLMAX® EcoMade fiber can be made from either 100% recycled PET bottles or 100% textile waste. With COOLMAX® ALL SEASON fiber, a durable, industrially launderable product, wearers get year-round comfort, staying cool when it's hot and warm

when temperatures drop, without the need for multiple uniforms. This keeps wearers comfortable as they work, more likely to remain in their gear, and more focused on getting the job done. Work doesn’t stop when the temperature drops. That’s where THERMOLITE® EcoMade fiber comes in. This lightweight warmth solution is made from durable hollow fibers that trap warm air inside garments, keeping bodies warm for longer. It can be made with either 100% recycled PET bottles or 100% textile waste. Plus, it’s durable, potentially reducing the need to keep buying new garments. Comfortable, well-fitting garments, durable, and high-tech performance benefits are the solution for better workwear, and you can count on The LYCRA Company, to deliver. For all-day comfort, moisture control, and temperature management in durable workwear fibers that last, we’re your partner, all the way. LYCRA®, COOLMAX®, and THERMOLITE® brands offer performance fiber solutions to meet workers’ real needs. LYCRA®, LYCRA® T400®, COOLMAX® and THERMOLITE® are trademarks of The LYCRA Company.

The CL-X enables significantly more effective fibre recovery.

Pre-Cleaner CL-X from Trützschler: Proven in cotton cleaning, creating value beyond the spinning mill Since its market launch, the CL-X has firmly established itself in blowroom lines worldwide. Hundreds of installations confirm its ability to deliver superior cleaning efficiency, lower waste, higher productivity and significant energy savings. Now, new customer applications show that the CL-X not only continues to excel in spinning preparation – it is also entering a completely new field of application: ginning. Opening up new potential in ginning Cotton gins perform the very first industrial processing step of cotton. Seed cotton arrives directly from the field and must be dried, cleaned and separated into three components: cotton fibres, cotton seeds and waste. While the cotton fibres are pressed into bales for spinning mills, the waste fraction is sold separately – often still containing a considerable share of usable fibres. In conventional ginning processes, this waste can contain up to around 0.8% good cotton fibres. These fibres still have value, but they are transported and sold in mixtures with trash, resulting in lower prices and unnecessary logistics

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costs. This is where the CL-X comes into play. Installed directly downstream of the ginning machine, the CL-X enables significantly more effective fibre recovery. Thanks to its precise cleaning action, usable fibres are separated more efficiently from trash before shipment. The result: higher fibre yield, less waste volume – and greater economic value from the same amount of raw cotton.

Success story from Brazil A Brazilian customer has now successfully implemented this concept. In a ginning operation processing around 500,000 tonnes of cotton per year, approximately 60% – or 300,000 tonnes – is typically separated as cotton seeds and waste during the cleaning process. Within this portion, approximately 4,000 metric tonnes (or 0.8%) of the waste consists, among other things, of high-

Features quality fibres that should be separated, as they would otherwise be lost at this stage of the process. By integrating the CL-X into the ginning process, the customer was able to further separate the ginning waste, splitting it into real waste and usable fibres that can be recovered at this early stage. This resulted in a significantly higher share of high-quality, marketable fibres, which in turn reduced the amount of waste that needed to be transported. In addition to lower logistics costs, the customer benefits from substantially better prices for the recovered fibres. Convinced by the results, the Brazilian ginnery has already placed follow-up orders for four additional CL-X machines for its ginning operations – a strong endorsement of the concept’s economic and technological potential. This application clearly demonstrates how CL-X performance can create added value well beyond the spinning mill.

Confirmed excellence in spinning preparation While the ginning application highlights the CL-X’s versatility, new results from spinning mills further confirm its leadership in established use cases. In Vietnam, a customer compared the CL-X with the previous pre-cleaning solution under identical production conditions. The CL-X reduced waste by approximately 0.5% to 0.8% in total while simultaneously improving yarn quality. These improvements led to enhanced efficiency on the customer’s

Pre-Cleaner CL-X: Delivering outstanding cleaning efficiency across diverse applications.

The CL-X creates value beyond the spinning mill.

rotor spinning operations, reduced material loss and a more consistent yarn output. At the same time, power consumption dropped by around 40%, resulting in substantial energy savings, lower operating costs and a clear sustainability benefit. The customer reports high satisfaction, particularly with the machine’s operational stability and output quality. Equally impressive results were achieved at a Turkish spinning mill processing 100% cotton at 1,100 kg/h. Replacing a competitor machine with the CL-X led to 80% less waste, around 30% lower energy consumption and noticeably higher yarn quality downstream. In addition, the blowroom operation became more stable and efficient. Where two machines had previously been required, one CL-X now handles the cleaning task alone, setting a new benchmark for both productivity and simplicity. Encouraged by these results, the customer has already decided to upgrade its blowroom line with further CL-X machines.

Smart technology, strong cleaning performance The technological foundation for these results in spinning preparation and ginning is the CL-X’s advanced cleaning concept. At its core is the proven WASTECONTROL system, which continuously monitors trash content and raw material quality by using real-time data. When too many good fibres are detected in the waste, the system automatically suggests an optimised setting to minimise fibre loss – ensuring consistently high cleaning performance and maximum fibre yield across varying conditions.

One machine, multiple opportunities From spinning preparation to ginning, the CL-X once again proves why it has become a benchmark in cotton cleaning. Its ability to deliver measurable economic, quality and sustainability benefits – even in entirely new applications – demonstrates the strength of its underlying concept and how smart pre-cleaning technology continues to unlock new potential along the entire cotton value chain.

The new RDJ 7/3 defines the design footprint of modern athletic shoes KARL MAYER launches Jacquard Double Needle Bar Raschel Machine with three jacquard bars for maximum design flexibility Stylish, functional, and efficient to produce – spacer fabrics are the allarounders among textile materials. These versatile fabrics are particularly in demand in the sports and casual footwear sector, as they combine comfort, breathability, and design freedom. At the same time, this industry is trenddriven, dynamic, and price-sensitive

like few others. Innovations are therefore a decisive factor for success.

Three Jacquard bars for unique design options

With the RDJ 7/3, KARL MAYER offers a solution specifically tailored to these requirements. The particular strength of the new double raschel machine: its exceptional flexibility, thanks to its three jacquard bars.

At the heart of the RDJ 7/3 are three split jacquard bars with the option for working counter-lapping – a configuration that offers significantly greater design potential.

The main new features are:  

Mesh designs with nearly perfectly round and even larger holes Integrated patterns and functional zones that can be realised with significantly more varied contours and variations.

As before, the mesh structures continue to be manufactured on one or both sides of the fabric.

More Colour, More Dynamism, More Attention The RDJ 7/3 also sets new standards in colouring. Equipped with three Jacquard bars, it enables freely designed Jacquard patterns with two-colour effects and creatively coloured pattern variations. Up to six different colours in a wide

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Features variety of combinations and design areas ensure maximum versatility and exciting visual effects.

Multi-dimensionality and Embossing Effects Directly into the Fabric Faces Another highlight of the machine is the ability to integrate subtle raised and recessed structures and embossing directly into the surface. To create these innovative 4D effects, the third Jacquard bar incorporates an extra yarn into the pile area in accordance with the pattern, in addition to the monofilament. The third jacquard bar works on both needle bars for complex spacer thickness variations. The additional yarn provides stretch as a core variant with elastane fibres, or thanks to its special structure greater shrinkage. Wherever it is placed, the height between the fabric sides is reduced, creating a variety of multi-layer designs that open up new applications for the fabric. A total of eight bars for pile formation ensure a high degree of structural and material flexibility in the creation of the spacing area.

Versatile Applications – From Shoe Uppers to Mattresses Thanks to its wide product range, the RDJ 7/3 is ideal for producing spacer fabrics for shoe uppers and mattress covers. The machine truly shines wherever comfort, breathability, different mesh structures on the face and back, or attractive embossed effects are required.

Technical Specifications and PracticeOriented Features The RDJ 7/3 is available with a working width of 138" and a gauge of E 24. The trick plate distance can be easily and flexibly adjusted between 2 and 5 mm, enabling the production of fabric thicknesses for a wide range of applications. The wireless Jacquard system provides additional ease of use. It simplifies handling, improves visibility, and contributes to efficient machine operation. High ease of use, and thus reduced labour requirements, along with a long service life are key selling points of the RDJ 7/3 in the market.

Kay Hilbert, Global Head of Design Fabrics & Specials at KARL MAYER

The most important performance highlight, however, is the machine’s unbeatable design flexibility. Thanks to its high production speed and fabric quality, it is ideally suited for high-volume production.

Curious about the patterning options for the RDJ 7/3? Kay Hilbert, Global Head of Design Fabrics & Specials at KARL MAYER, looks forward to answering your questions. 41

Features

Mimaki advances DTF productivity and stability with new TxF330-800 New TxF330-800 direct-to-film (DTF) printer enhances automation and supports longer, continuous garment decoration. Mimaki Europe, a leading manufacturer of industrial inkjet printers and cutting plotters, announces the TxF330-800, its new direct-to-film (DTF) printer. Designed to support stable, high-quality garment decoration in demanding print environments, the system combines automated maintenance, expanded white ink capacity and advanced production capabilities to streamline workflow. Longer Print Runs with Greater Stability Delivering 1.5x the production speed of the previous TxF300-75 model, the TxF330-800 is equipped for long, uninterrupted production runs with an expanded 16-cartridge ink system. Up to eight white ink slots provide up to 4L of capacity, while Mimaki’s UISS (Uninterrupted Ink Supply System) allows print providers to replace cartridges without stopping production. The printer also incorporates Mimaki Feed Tension Technology (MFT), which improves film transport without applying additional tension. This reduces the risk of misalignment during high-speed and long-duration printing and supports stable, precise image quality.

The TxF330-800, Mimaki’s new direct-to-film printer for high-quality garment decoration.

helps to prevent ink blockages which can slow down production.

Enhanced Colour Fidelity for Garment Printing

The expanded colour gamut now includes Sky Blue and Pale Pink inks, To extend productivity further, rotary An expanded capacity ink cartridge system enables the TxF330-800 to enabling more wipers have been introduced for easier operate for longer periods, increasing productivity. vibrant output, maintenance of the print heads, while smoother minimising ink splatter during wiping. “Performance and productivity were gradients and more accurate colour MCT2 (Mimaki Circulation Technology) key drivers in developing the TxF330reproduction - particularly 800,” comments Arjen Evertse, Director important for Sales at Mimaki Europe. “This new applications requiring printer answers direct market demands high colour fidelity, such for robust, high-speed DTF technology, as workwear and and it further demonstrates our corporate merchandise. commitment to customer-focused These inks are also ECO innovation in this market. It’s the latest in PASSPORT-certified and a series of practical yet innovative packaged in an solutions from Mimaki that help print environmentally friendly, providers maintain high-quality output eco-cartridge. The during longer, more efficient and more TxF330-800 is also profitable production runs.” compatible with a broader range of films for The TxF330-800 will make its debut The addition of new ink colours delivers more vibrant output, increased flexibility. smoother gradients and more accurate colour reproduction. at The Print Show and Viscom Italia.

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left to right: Thomas Wiget, General Manager, Brückner Textile India Pvt. Ltd. and Jasdeep Singh, Managing Director, PI Cottex Pvt. Ltd.

Ready for the future: PI Cottex chooses Brückner again for reliable quality and efficiency PI Cottex, based in Ludhiana in the Indian state of Punjab, has developed into a leading manufacturer of highquality knitted fabrics in recent years. Thanks to consistent vertical integration, modern production technologies and a clear focus on quality, the company supplies renowned national and international clothing brands. In this interview, the team at PI Cottex talks to Brückner about its market strategy, future growth plans and its long-standing partnership with the German premium machinery manufacturer. 44 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

Could you briefly introduce PI Cottex to us? PI Cottex is a vertically integrated manufacturer of knitted fabrics with a wide-ranging product portfolio. The company produces various fabric types, including single jersey, piqué, terry, fleece, rib, interlock and waffle fabrics, as well as high-quality activewear fabrics, mostly made from cotton or cotton-elastane blends. In addition, PI Cottex develops bespoke solutions in terms of weight, width, fabric blend, colour and finish. Its customers include well-known national and international fashion brands from the

fashion, casualwear, sportswear and athleisure sectors, including, amongst others, Benetton, Tommy Hilfiger, Skechers, Levi’s, Puma, Vero Moda and Jack & Jones.

Which markets are particularly important for your company? The international market plays a key role for PI Cottex and currently accounts for around 70 to 75% of its business. Export markets place high demands on product quality, process stability and sustainability, whilst at the same time offering attractive growth opportunities. The Indian domestic market is also

Interview becoming increasingly important. In particular, organised retail chains, sportswear manufacturers and fastgrowing fashion brands are driving rising demand for high-quality fabrics.

What sets PI Cottex apart? One of PI Cottex’s greatest strengths is its consistent vertical integration. All processes – knitting, dyeing and finishing – are carried out in-house. This enables the company to maintain control at all times over key quality parameters such as colour shade, weight, width, shrinkage values and hand feel. At the same time, the integrated structure allows for a high degree of flexibility, short response times and the development of bespoke customer solutions.

What does your machinery consist of? PI Cottex currently operates four stenter frames: one 6-chamber stenter frame, one 8-chamber stenter frame and two 10-chamber machines. Two of these machines are from Brückner: the 6chamber and the 10-chamber stenter frames. The experience with Brückner has been very positive, which is why further investments are already being considered.

Why did you choose Brückner? The decision to choose Brückner was based on the positive experience with the systems already installed. In particular, the reliable performance, high process reliability and consistently high quality of the finishing results convinced the company. The machines consistently delivered high-quality results and supported stable and efficient production.

This fostered the confidence to invest in Brückner technology once again.

What specific advantages do you see in Brückner machines? The main advantages lie in Brückner’s dryer design, which makes it possible to carry out the same process using fewer chambers – whilst maintaining the same results. Furthermore, the systems offer very high production output, consistent heat-setting results, better shrinkage control and significantly higher energy efficiency than other machines. Ultimately, this leads to consistently high fabric quality and high-quality end products. At the same time, the machines ensure high operational reliability, reduce process fluctuations and support costeffective production, which made the investment decision much easier.

compliance with international standards. To meet these requirements, the company invests specifically in modern technologies and high-performance production equipment. Brückner meets all these criteria.

What are PI Cottex’s objectives for the coming years? PI Cottex is pursuing an ambitious growth strategy. Over the next two to five years, production capacity is set to increase from the current level of around 600 tonnes to approximately 1,000 tonnes per month. At the same time, the company is planning to invest further in automation, modern technologies and enhanced quality assurance systems. In addition, opportunities for diversification into related business areas such as yarns or fabrics are being explored.

What makes the collaboration with Brückner so special?

What challenges is the industry currently facing?

PI Cottex particularly values the fact that Brückner is far more than just a machine supplier. The company has a deep understanding of textile finishing processes and supports its customers in efficiently meeting demanding quality requirements. The combination of technological expertise, high-quality equipment and long-term reliability forms the basis for this successful partnership.

Like many companies in the textile industry, PI Cottex is also facing a challenging market environment. Among the greatest challenges are fluctuating raw material prices, geopolitical uncertainties, delays in international trade and, in some cases, subdued demand in export markets. Against this backdrop, efficiency, cost control, high quality and short lead times are becoming increasingly important.

Do your customers specify requirements when selecting machinery? PI Cottex’s customers do not specify particular machinery manufacturers. What matters most is consistently high quality, reliable delivery times and

Figures, Data and Sustainability PI Cottex currently generates an annual turnover of around 200 crore INR and employs approximately 500 staff. The company is growing at a rate of around 20 per cent per year and has evolved from a traditional contract finisher into a fully integrated manufacturing company. Sustainability is firmly embedded in the company’s strategy. Among other things, PI Cottex relies on agro-based fuels for steam generation, modern wastewater treatment systems and various programmes to raise awareness and provide training for its staff. Furthermore, the company holds key certifications such as OEKO-TEX®, BCI, GOTS, GRS and SEDEX, thereby meeting the requirements of international brands for sustainable and responsible production.

USTER Sentinel delivers measurable gains from spinning to winding Detecting faults at source with Uster Sentinel has enabled Ibrahim Fibres to extend the quality and performance benefits from ring spinning right through to the winding stage with Uster Quantum clearers. This is making a great difference to both quality and productivity across the mill. End-break downtime in spinning has reduced by 80%, while clearer cuts at winding are 19% less than previously. Overall winding efficiency is up by 1%. Mr. Muhammad Zafar Iqbal, General Manager of Textile Plant 4, says Uster Sentinel makes its operators’ lives easier too. They are guided logically to each break, instead of having to patrol monotonously. This means the operators are working more efficiently. Already they have been able to optimise operator assignment, increasing the work area of each by 35% after only a short time. This is expected to reach double the original level in future.

An interview with Mr. Muhammad Zafar Iqbal Ibrahim Fibres Limited was incorporated in 1986 as a public limited company and is listed on the Pakistan stock exchange. The company operations currently comprise of polyester and textile spinning plants. The polyester plants produce a wide range of polyester staple fiber. The textile spinning plants specialise in production of fine counts of blended as well as pure synthetic yarns. The power requirement of the company is met from internal power generation.

Why did you choose Uster Sentinel as the monitoring tool for your ring spinning machines? 46 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

We find that Uster Sentinel brings additional advantages by further reducing yarn fault cuts and yarn alarms at the winding stage, with help of Uster Quantum clearers. Our main focus is not only to increase ring spinning performance but to extend it to the final yarn stage in the winding process.

What has changed in the spinning department since the installation? The Uster Sentinel system guides operators logically to the next yarn break, so they no longer need to search and patrol laboriously for breaks. Thus, operator motivation for their working practices has significantly increased,

resulting in better work management on a continuous basis. We have been able to increase the working area of machine operators by about 35% within a short period, and are aiming to double the area in the near future.

Does better operator work management also increase spinning process efficiency? Yes, very much so. We have reduced endbreak downtime by about 80%, with rationalised path optimisation for operators. This resulted in overall pneumafil waste reducing by about 1.3%, which is a significant production gain.

Special Report

How does your technical team feel about working with Uster Sentinel? We have a dedicated team of people which goes through exception reports from the Uster Sentinel system on a continuous basis. As all the information is available in one place, and our team ensures daily fixing of repeated break positions (rogue) and slip spindles in real time. This contributes to increased production, not only at spinning, but also at the next stage of winding. There is no doubt that the final yarn quality is better after outliers have been attended to promptly. Hence our team feels that it has a handy tool to control production quality.

Can you please elaborate on how you improved production at winding? By attending to the source of faults at ring spinning, we were able to reduce our yarn fault cuts at winding by about 19% and further yarn alarms reduced

Uster RSO is a real game changer for consistent yarn quality. We are delighted – and so is the customer.

significantly. We increased our winding efficiency by about 1%, as well as producing better quality with fewer alarms in the process.

Are there any further benefits you would like to highlight with Uster Sentinel? One more important benefit of the Uster Sentinel system is that it supports

sustainability solutions. We have been able to bring down our energy costs significantly, due to reduced reprocessing of roving waste and hard waste at the winding stage. We have conserved more energy in both power and air consumption, since less waste is being produced than earlier. These benefits are in line with our company’s vision, mission and core values.

How would you summarise your experience with Uster Sentinel? We are happy with our investment in the Uster Sentinel system. More importantly, it has helped us to bring smiles at all levels of the workforce, alongside performanceoriented results in spinning and winding. We also believe our association with Uster could leverage even more benefits in future through connectivity to Uster portfolio products such as Uster RSO 3D.

Special Report

Rieter: Automatic can exchange at the roving frame

The automatic can exchange between the draw frame and the roving frame enables a fully continuous process without the need for manual handling of cans. This results in lower labour costs, consistently high yarn quality, and improved machine utilisation. To maintain uninterrupted production, the rear rows of the roving frame are automatically supplied with full cans and cleared of empty ones via a conveyor belt in combination with the automatic can transport system SERVOcan. This ensures a seamless flow of material between processes.

The system intelligently manages three row states:  active rows with full cans feeding the

roving frame,  an idle row with empty cans, returned

to the draw frame,  an idle row with full cans, supplied from the draw frame. A single gate system manages both empty and full cans, supported by an integrated lifting device, which allows for

48 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

a compact setup and reliable, smooth operation.

Higher Efficiency and Consistent Yarn Quality This automated can exchange ensures uninterrupted production by providing a continuous supply of material and eliminating the need for manual handling of cans. It also guarantees reliable material handling, preventing mix-ups and enabling clear allocation of material. The stable and consistent material flow contributes to consistent yarn quality by reducing irregularities and avoiding process interruptions. As a result, machine utilisation is significantly increased, since stops are limited to essential piecing operations only. In addition, labour costs are reduced because manual transport and handling are no longer required. Overall, the automatic can exchange creates a wellcoordinated material flow that minimises downtime and stabilises the entire spinning process.

About Rieter Rieter is the world’s leading system supplier for processing natural and manmade fibres into short-staple and long-staple yarn, as well as for the production of filament yarns, man-made fibres and nonwovens. With its comprehensive technology portfolio, Rieter covers the entire textile value chain – from fibre to yarn, and from polymer melt to texturised filament, synthetic staple fibres and nonwoven. Headquartered in Winterthur, Switzerland, the company designs and engineers complex spinning plants, machines, systems, and components that enable an efficient and economical production. Rieter’s leading technologies ensure minimal resource consumption, making a significant contribution to sustainability across the global textile value chain. Rieter has a history spanning more than 230 years, operates 22 production sites in nine countries, and employs around 6,500 people worldwide, approximately 10% of them in Switzerland. Rieter is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange under the ticker symbol RIEN.

UK and Pakistan: A flourishing textile and trade relationship The United Kingdom continues to carry considerable weight in world affairs by virtue of its position as a major international centre for trade, finance, services and industry. For Pakistan, the UK remains an important economic partner, with established commercial, investment and people-to-people links extending across several sectors of the economy. The nature of the relationship, however, has changed considerably since the earlier years of bilateral trade. The UK's departure from the European Union has altered its trading framework, while Pakistan's position in the UK market has continued to be strongly associated with textiles and apparel. In 2025, the two countries also moved towards a more structured framework for expanding their trade and investment relationship.

Pakistan–UK trade Pakistan's trade figures show the continuing importance of the British market. According to figures from State Bank of Pakistan, Pakistan’s exports to the UK were recorded at US$2.160 billion in FY25, while imports were recorded at US$745.5 million. Pakistan therefore enjoyed a trade surplus of US$1.415 billion with the UK during the year.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

Table 1: Pak – UK. Trade Value: US$ Million Year

Exports

Imports

Balance of Trade

2020-2021 2021-2022 2022-2023 2023-2024 2024-2025

2,084 2,201 1,968 2,015 2,160

780 869 638 781 745

+1,268 +1,331 +1,329 +1,233 +1,414

Source: State Bank of Pakistan Annual Reports.

Pakistani exports to the UK increased from US$2.015 billion in FY24 to US$2.160 billion in FY25, an increase of approximately 7.2%. Imports from the UK declined from US$781.9 million to US$745.5 million over the same period. For details, check Table 1. The bilateral relationship has also acquired a new institutional framework. In July 2025, the UK and Pakistan held their first ministerial-led UK–Pakistan Trade Dialogue. The two governments agreed to establish a Business Advisory Council bringing together business leaders and government officials, with the stated purpose of identifying commercial opportunities, addressing market-access issues and supporting greater trade and investment. During the first Trade Dialogue, Pakistan identified agriculture, mining,

textiles, information technology and pharmaceuticals as areas for further cooperation, with both sides discussing value addition and investment collaboration.

Pakistan's textile exports to the UK Textiles and clothing remain at the centre of Pakistan's export relationship with the United Kingdom. Pakistan's exports to the UK include Knitwear (Hosiery), Bedwear, Readymade Garments and other textile products, alongside non-textile products such as rice, surgical instruments, sports goods and agricultural products. The export figures for FY25 show particularly strong values in Knitwear (Hosiery), which represented the largest individual product category with exports of US$667 million. Bedwear accounted

UK Review for US$487 million in FY25, while Readymade Garments reached US$344 million. Other important categories included Towels at US$113 million. For details, check Table 2.

A different trade framework Pakistan's access to the UK market is now governed through the UK's Developing Countries Trading Scheme (DCTS). Pakistan is included in the Enhanced Preferences tier of the scheme. Under this tier, 92% of product lines receive zero import tariffs, subject to the conditions and rules of the scheme. For Pakistan's textile and clothing exporters, market access therefore remains an important element of the bilateral trading relationship. However, tariff preferences do not by themselves determine export performance. Compliance with rules of origin, product standards, buyer requirements, sustainability expectations and other market-access conditions remains relevant to exporters seeking to expand their presence in the UK.

The changing UK textile industry The structure of the British textile industry has changed substantially over the past several decades. Production, employment, technology and composition of the sector have all changed, while parts of the industry have moved towards specialised and higher-value activities.

Table 2: Export of Textiles from Pakistan to U.K. Value: US$ Thousand Major Products

2022-23

2023-24

2024-25

Knitwear (Hosiery)

572,812

618,479

667,991

Bedwear

426,677

458,997

487,837

Readymade Garments

320,456

299,963

344,460

Towels

106,342

102,506

113,116

Textile Made-ups

52,578

50,176

56,087

Cotton Fabrics

39,323

32,032

37,032

Cotton Yarn

2,323

2,032

2,123

All Others

447,921

450,935

451,616

Total Exports

1,968,432

2,015,120

2,160,262

Source: Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.

specialist materials, technical applications, design, fashion, advanced manufacturing and other higher-value activities. UK textile manufacturers also remain connected to international supply chains. The sector's development has taken place against a background of increased international competition and changes in consumer markets, technology and production economics.

British investment in Pakistan British commercial involvement in Pakistan has a long history, beginning well before independence and continuing through successive periods of industrial and economic development.

Official UK statistics provide a useful measure of this structural change. The Office for National Statistics records the value of UK manufacturers' sales for the manufacture of textiles at approximately £6.4 billion in 2025. The corresponding figure was approximately £6.0 billion in 2024.

In 2025, the British High Commission reported that more than 200 British companies were operating in Pakistan. The UK government's trade and investment data records UK foreign direct investment stock in Pakistan at £2.5 billion at the end of 2023.

The ONS production index for the combined manufacture of textiles, wearing apparel and leather products stood at 18.5 in both 2024 and 2025, compared with 17.8 in 2008 and 44.5 in 1997. The difference highlights the substantial long-term change in the scale and structure of these manufacturing activities.

Investment is also one of the subjects being addressed through the new bilateral Trade Dialogue. The two governments have identified investment facilitation as an area for further cooperation, and the UK announced up to £200,000 in technical assistance to support Pakistan's efforts to attract UK investment.

The modern UK textile industry therefore encompasses a more diverse range of activities than the traditional mass-production model. Alongside textile manufacturing, the sector includes

US$2.160 billion in Pakistani exports to the UK, with textile and apparel products accounting for a substantial share of that trade. Home textiles and garments continue to form the core of the export relationship. At the same time, the UK textile industry has undergone major structural change, with manufacturing activity increasingly associated with specialised production and higher-value applications. This creates a relationship that can extend beyond conventional buyer-seller trade to include technology, skills, investment and industrial cooperation. The establishment of the UK– Pakistan Trade Dialogue in 2025 provides a new institutional mechanism through which these areas can be developed. The two governments have specifically identified textiles, along with agriculture, mining, information technology and pharmaceuticals, for further cooperation. For the textile sector, the figures point to an established trading relationship rather than a new market. The challenge ahead is to build on that existing base through greater value addition, continued compliance with international market requirements, investment and closer commercial engagement between businesses in the two countries.

References: 1.

Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.

The road ahead

State Bank of Pakistan-Annual Reports.

For Pakistan's textile industry, the UK remains an established and significant export market. The FY25 figures show

Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.

Various press releases.

UK Review

UK textile machinery: Engineering innovation for a changing global industry by Jason Kent, CEO, British Textile Machinery Association Pakistan Textile Journal is pleased to revive its UK Review after almost two decades, renewing a tradition of highlighting the contribution of British textile engineering to Pakistan's textile industry. We are particularly pleased to present this special contribution by Mr. Jason Kent, Chief Executive Officer of the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA), examining how UK textile machinery manufacturers are responding to a rapidly changing global industry through innovation, digitalisation, sustainability and investment in skills. The article also looks ahead to ITMA 2027 and the evolving role of British textile engineering in an increasingly specialised international market.

The United Kingdom has one of the longest and most influential histories in textile machinery manufacturing. From the technologies that helped drive the first Industrial Revolution to today's highly specialised systems for advanced textiles, automation and technical applications, British engineering has continued to evolve alongside the changing requirements of the global textile industry. Today, however, the UK textile machinery sector is markedly different from the high-volume machinery industry of previous generations. Its strength increasingly lies in specialist engineering, innovative technology, flexibility and the ability to solve complex manufacturing problems. The British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) represents this diverse community of UK textile machinery manufacturers, technology providers, universities, and research organisations. Across its membership can be found expertise spanning virtually every stage of textile and related manufacturing, including fibre and yarn processing, weaving and fabric formation, dyeing and finishing, coating, converting, testing and quality control, automation,

control systems, and specialist production equipment. Increasingly, these technologies also serve markets beyond traditional apparel and home textiles, including technical textiles, composites, aerospace, automotive, filtration, healthcare, defence, and advanced materials. This diversification is becoming one of the defining characteristics of the modern UK textile machinery industry.

Technology is reshaping the sector Perhaps the most significant change taking place is the accelerating convergence between textile engineering, digital technology, and advanced manufacturing. Automation, machine vision, sophisticated process controls, data analytics, and artificial intelligence are changing both machinery design and customer expectations. Textile manufacturers are looking for equipment capable not simply of producing more, but of producing more intelligently through reducing waste, improving repeatability, lowering energy consumption, and giving operators much greater visibility of production performance.

Customers increasingly expect machinery to integrate into wider digital manufacturing environments. Machine builders therefore need to think beyond the individual mechanical process towards connectivity, diagnostics, traceability, software, and lifecycle performance. There is also growing interest in technologies that can support increasingly autonomous production, particularly as textile-producing countries themselves face challenges in recruiting and retaining skilled operators. For specialist UK engineering companies, this transition presents considerable opportunities. The value of machinery will increasingly be judged not simply by its output, but by the intelligence, efficiency and process knowledge embedded within it.

Sustainability moves from aspiration to investment Environmental performance is another major driver of machinery investment. Textile manufacturers worldwide remain under pressure to reduce energy and water consumption, minimise chemical usage, improve material utilisation and deal more effectively with production waste. For machinery manufacturers, sustainability is therefore becoming less about an environmental claim and more about measurable process performance. Equipment capable of reducing drying requirements, recovering materials, extending product life, lowering processing temperatures, or improving first-time-right production can provide customers with both environmental and commercial benefits.

FET-200 Laboratory and Pilot Wet spinning system

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

Circularity is also creating new engineering requirements. Recycling fibres, processing alternative feedstocks,

UK Review and dealing with increasingly diverse material streams require machinery capable of operating under conditions for which many conventional textile processes were not originally designed. The transition towards circular textile manufacturing should consequently be viewed as an engineering challenge as much as a materials challenge, and one in which specialist UK technology companies are well positioned to participate.

Technical textiles and advanced materials One of the most important opportunities for British textile machinery companies is the continuing expansion of technical textile applications. The boundaries between textiles and other advanced manufacturing sectors are becoming increasingly blurred. Textile structures are now integral to products ranging from aircraft and automotive components to medical devices, protective materials, filtration systems, and renewable-energy technologies. Processes historically associated with textiles such as winding, weaving, braiding, coating, fibre placement, and material handling are consequently finding applications in completely different industrial environments. Composites are a particularly interesting example. Composite manufacturing frequently begins with technologies familiar to the textile machinery industry through the preparation, positioning, spreading, winding, or conversion of reinforcement fibres. As demand for lighter and higherperformance materials increases, the crossover between textile machinery and composites manufacturing is likely to become increasingly important. This presents the UK textile machinery sector with an opportunity to broaden its addressable markets while applying decades of textile engineering expertise to some of the world's most advanced manufacturing industries.

Building stronger international markets The UK textile machinery industry remains fundamentally export oriented. The largest concentrations of textile manufacturing are outside Western Europe, meaning British machinery companies have long needed to compete internationally and establish relationships across Asia, the Americas, the Middle East, and Europe. That international outlook remains one of the industry's defining characteristics, but the way in which markets are developing is changing. Successful exporting increasingly requires sustained relationships, a detailed understanding of local manufacturing requirements and stronger connections between technology suppliers and textile producers.

ITMA 2027 and the changing boundaries of textile machinery Few events demonstrate the international nature of this industry more clearly than ITMA. As the UK member of CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers and owner of the ITMA brand of exhibitions, BTMA is actively involved in the development of the world's largest textile and garment technology exhibition.

BTMA AT A GLANCE The British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) represents the UK’s textile machinery, technology and allied industries. Its 49 members bring together specialist machinery manufacturers and technology providers with universities, professional bodies and other organisations supporting the textile sector. Collectively, they represent a broad spectrum of expertise across textile manufacturing, processing, testing, automation and advanced materials.

SECTORS REPRESENTED Fibre, Yarn & Nonwovens Fibre processing • Man-made fibre extrusion • Yarn handling, splicing & monitoring • Hemp & natural fibres • Nonwovens

Fabric Formation Weaving • Knitting • Tufting • Carpet machinery • Jacquard technology

Dyeing, Printing & Finishing Dyeing • Printing • Coating & laminating • Drying • Finishing • Colour & chemical technologies

Testing, Inspection & Quality Control Textile testing • Colour assessment • Automated fabric inspection • Process monitoring • Weathering & performance testing

Automation & Specialist Engineering Automation • CAD/CAM • Sensors & controls • Precision engineering • Static control • Moisture measurement • Lubrication

Technical Textiles & Composites Advanced materials • Technical fibres • Composites • Specialist textile processing

Knowledge & Industry Support Universities & research • Professional and trade bodies • Textile media • Consultancy • Exhibition logistics

UK Review

Amba Projex Ltd supplies coating and lamination machinery for traditional and technical textiles and composites

The next ITMA takes place in Hannover in September 2027 and will provide an important global platform for demonstrating how rapidly textile manufacturing technology is evolving. An important part of BTMA's work towards ITMA 2027 is identifying areas of future growth where textile engineering is increasingly being applied beyond its traditional boundaries. One such area is composites. BTMA is working with CEMATEX and ITMA Services to explore how the composites sector can be more strongly represented at ITMA 2027, alongside engagement with industry organisations and technology companies. This is about more than adding another application sector to an exhibition. It reflects a much broader strategic question for the textile machinery industry: Where else can textile engineering expertise create value? Technical textiles, advanced materials, medical applications, filtration, defence, aerospace, and composites increasingly provide part of the answer. The future market for textile machinery may consequently be considerably broader than the conventional definition of the textile industry itself.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

Competing on value rather than volume The competitive environment nevertheless remains demanding. UK manufacturers face strong international competition from established machinery-producing nations and, increasingly, lower-cost manufacturers capable of producing technically competent machinery at significant scale. Competing purely on price is therefore rarely a sustainable strategy for British manufacturers. The opportunity instead lies where engineering capability, productivity, reliability, specialist knowledge, and longterm customer support carry greater value. This might mean developing equipment for a highly specialised technical textile application, integrating automation into an existing manufacturing process, improving quality control, or providing machinery capable of working with materials that did not exist when the original textile processes were developed. British companies have traditionally been good at precisely these types of engineering challenges. Their relatively specialist nature can also make them agile. Engineering businesses can often work directly with

customers, adapt technology quickly and develop customised solutions around particular manufacturing requirements. The future competitiveness of the UK industry will therefore depend less upon how many machines it produces and increasingly upon the value, technology and expertise contained within them.

Investing in the next generation Perhaps the greatest long-term challenge facing the sector is not technological but human. Modern textile machinery sits at the intersection of mechanical and electrical engineering, materials science, software, automation and textile process knowledge. Developing people who combine these disciplines with the commercial and leadership capabilities required to operate internationally takes time. BTMA has therefore made skills, talent and leadership development a strategic priority. In 2026, the Association committed £50,000 to a new Industry Placement Bursary Scheme, providing up to ten bursaries of £5,000 to support industry placements, graduate traineeships and apprenticeships. BTMA has also established its inaugural Future Leaders Committee, bringing together seven emerging leaders from across its membership. The

UK Review Committee gives the next generation a voice in shaping BTMA's future direction while creating a structured pathway through which future industry leaders can develop.

competitive. Manufacturers face continuing pressure from costs, skills shortages, rapidly developing technology, changing regulation, and competitors operating at substantially greater scale.

Members of the founding cohort will undertake the Cranfield School of Management's Skills Accelerator Programme, tailored for BTMA to combine management and leadership development with exposure to wider strategic issues affecting the industry.

But the UK's opportunity does not depend upon recreating the mass machinery manufacturing industry of the past.

BTMA is also sponsoring Master'slevel research with Manchester Metropolitan University examining the relationship between the sector and the aspirations of younger generations. Taken together, these programmes represent investment across the talent pipeline: attracting people into the sector, supporting early industrial experience, developing future leaders and ensuring that the next generation has a voice in the industry's direction.

Looking ahead The outlook for UK textile machinery should therefore be viewed with measured confidence. The international machinery market remains intensely

Its competitive advantage increasingly lies elsewhere: specialist engineering, innovation, flexibility, automation, advanced materials, process knowledge, and the ability to solve difficult manufacturing problems. That also requires the industry and its representative organisations to think differently about competitiveness. Initiatives such as UKITMC are creating more structured routes into important international markets. Work towards ITMA 2027 is exploring how textile technology can serve growing sectors such as composites and advanced materials. The BTMA Industry Placement Bursary Scheme is helping companies invest in new talent, while the Future Leaders Committee is beginning to develop some of the people who may lead the industry in the decades ahead.

These initiatives are different in character, but strategically they address the same fundamental question: How does a highly specialised British engineering sector remain internationally competitive for the next generation? The answer will involve opening new markets, embracing new technologies, developing new applications, and investing in people. For an industry whose history stretches back to the birth of modern manufacturing, this represents an important transition. The UK's textile machinery industry has an extraordinary engineering heritage, but heritage alone does not guarantee future success. Its strongest opportunity now lies in combining that accumulated expertise with digital technology, advanced materials, sustainable manufacturing and a new generation of engineers and business leaders. The objective is not simply to preserve Britain's position in textile machinery. “It is to redefine what textile machinery can become.”

Founding members of the BTMA Future Leaders Committee at their first meeting at the Association's Manchester office. From left: Adam Dakin, Verivide; Daniel Skinner, Vandewiele UK; Luke Leyland, Adaptive Control Solutions; Jason Kent, BTMA; Madelaine Thomas, WTiN; Dan Matthews, Tatham and Simon Vincent, AVA CAD/CAM

UK Review

Vision inspection as a pillar of Sustainable Textile Manufacturing How Shelton Vision WebSpector is helping transform quality control into process intelligence, waste reduction and manufacturing efficiency Pakistan’s textile manufacturers face growing pressure to deliver consistent quality, higher productivity, lower waste and greater transparency while controlling costs and improving resource efficiency. Quality control can therefore no longer be treated simply as a final-stage activity before fabric is shipped. Increasingly, inspection must become part of the manufacturing process itself. This is where Shelton Vision’s WebSpector technology becomes important. By combining high-speed vision inspection, artificial intelligence and digital quality data, the system is designed not only to identify defects but also to help manufacturers improve processes, prevent waste and raise firsttime quality.

Preventing waste before it happens The sustainability impact of defective fabric extends beyond the material eventually rejected. By the time fabric reaches finishing or printing, resources have already been consumed through fibre production, weaving or knitting, water, chemicals, dyeing, finishing, energy and transportation. If a defect is identified only after several additional production stages, the environmental and financial cost rises significantly. WebSpector continuously monitors fabric while production is taking place,

allowing defects or process deviations to be identified earlier. Instead of discovering a problem after hundreds or even thousands of metres have been processed, production teams can receive quality information while there is still an opportunity to take corrective action. Inspection therefore becomes part of waste prevention rather than simply a method of grading finished fabric.

From manual to intelligent inspection Traditional fabric inspection depends heavily on experienced operators, whose knowledge remains important. However, fatigue can affect consistency, inspectors may grade the same defect differently, and modern production speeds can make continuous visual monitoring difficult. WebSpector provides continuous objective inspection across the length of the fabric. High-resolution line-scan cameras capture images as material passes through the inspection zone, while engineered illumination and multi-angle lighting help reveal relevant surface and structural faults. Because fabrics vary widely in construction, colour, texture, finish and pattern, automated inspection must work reliably across changing conditions. WebSpector combines image acquisition, anomaly detection, artificial-intelligence analysis, defect classification and digital roll mapping within a real-time inspection process.

According to Shelton Vision, inspection speeds can reach up to 300 metres per minute, depending on the application.

AI adds another dimension Artificial intelligence and deep learning have changed what vision inspection systems can achieve. Earlier rule-based technologies relied largely on fixed thresholds and predefined defect parameters, but textiles contain considerable natural variation. WebSpector uses deep-learning techniques that enable neural networks to learn acceptable fabric characteristics from textile datasets rather than relying exclusively on fixed defect definitions. According to Shelton Vision’s technical material, this enables detection performance of more than 98% accuracy, including across changing fabric constructions, colours and finishes. WebSpector can also support defect naming, severity grading, classification, statistical analysis and quality scoring. This allows quality information to be recorded consistently and shared more effectively across the supply chain.

A particular strength in printed fabrics Printed and patterned fabrics remain among the most technically challenging applications for automated inspection. A system must recognise the normal structure of a design while detecting faults such as colour mis-registration, repeat distortion, missing print elements, colour misgeneration, screen contamination, ink-transfer instability and repeat drift. According to Shelton Vision’s technical material, WebSpector can inspect and report real-time misgeneration issues and other print defects while operating directly on a commercial screen-print line. If a repeating printing problem is identified only after a long production run, substantial quantities of fabric, ink,

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

UK Review energy and production time may already have been wasted. Real-time inspection allows production teams to respond while the print process is still operating, potentially improving first-pass quality while reducing waste.

potentially be avoided while smaller pattern components are positioned more intelligently around affected areas. This allows manufacturers to extract more usable product from the same quantity of fabric.

Turning inspection into manufacturing data

Quality, efficiency and sustainability

WebSpector also generates digital information from each inspected roll. Defect locations, classifications, grading information, production timestamps and roll-history data can be recorded to create a detailed digital quality record. Over time, this data can help manufacturers identify recurring trends associated with loom faults, dyeing instability, finishing variation or printing drift. Rather than treating each defective roll as an isolated incident, mills can analyse where quality losses originate and whether problems are recurring. The same roll maps can also have value downstream. When defect-location information is made available to cutting or nesting systems, major faults can

For Pakistan’s export-oriented textile industry, WebSpector demonstrates how sustainability and manufacturing efficiency are increasingly part of the same discussion. Every defective run stopped earlier and every metre that does not need to be remade represents both a cost saving and reduced resource consumption. By combining real-time defect detection, AI-based analysis, digital roll mapping and manufacturing data, Shelton Vision WebSpector gives manufacturers information that can help them understand not only whether a defect has occurred, but where it occurred, what type it is, whether it is repeating and how future losses might be prevented.

As textile manufacturing becomes more automated and data-driven, turning inspection into process intelligence is becoming increasingly important to more efficient and sustainable production.

UK Review

Testing with confidence: SDC Enterprises introduces new safeguards against counterfeit consumables SDC Enterprises offers a comprehensive range of consumables designed to support accuracy and consistency in BS, EN and ISO textile test procedures. Internationally recognised within the industry, SDC Enterprises’ products are specified by retailers and testing organisations worldwide seeking dependable and repeatable test results. However, the growing presence of counterfeit products in the market presents an increasing challenge. While imitations may appear similar to genuine SDC Enterprises products, they can deliver inferior or inconsistent testing performance, potentially compromising the reliability of test results. To help protect customers and safeguard the standards associated with SDC Enterprises, the company has invested in a series of security features designed to make genuine products easier to identify. These measures provide laboratories and textile manufacturers with practical methods of verifying product authenticity and ensuring that testing is carried out using genuine SDC Enterprises consumables.

New Packaging One of the most visible changes is SDC Enterprises’ redesigned packaging. Each pouch now incorporates a tearoff strip, helping prevent opened packaging from being reused or resold. This provides customers with an immediate and straightforward indication of whether the original packaging has been compromised. The new packaging is being introduced across a broad range of SDC Enterprises products, including standard fabrics, multifibre products, detergents and LFS Blue Wool Reference Standards.

58 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

SDC’s new generation of packaging-designed to protect product integrity and build customer confidence

Authenticity Label SDC Enterprises has also developed a new authenticity label to provide an additional layer of protection against counterfeit products.

appears to move horizontally across the label, the red “Certified” marking appears and disappears, while the main

Customers are encouraged to check for the official SDC Enterprises authenticity label when receiving products. The label incorporates dynamic holographic features that change according to the viewing angle, making accurate reproduction considerably more difficult. Several visual security features can be observed. The blue SDC Enterprises logo

Authenticity label-straight view

UK Review SDC Enterprises logo changes between white and pink.

How to Identify Genuine SDC Products

Together, these features provide a quick visual means of checking whether the product received is genuine.

Check the Packaging Look for new SDC design with built-in security features.

Verify the Authenticity Label Ensure the label shows the micro-printed SDC mark and ‘CERTIFIED’ pattern.

Inspect the Security Thread Hold the seal up to the light and look for the “SDC” thread and waveform.

Buy Through Authorised Distributors Purchase only from SDC’s authorised partners or direct from SDC Enterprises. Authenticity label-angled view shows ‘CERTIFIED’ pattern

Check the Certificate of Conformity Every batch includes a Certificate linking the product to its test results.

Security Thread A further safeguard is the SDC Enterprises security thread, which is woven directly into selected multifibre materials. The thread provides an integrated authentication feature that is considerably more difficult to reproduce than packaging alone. It is visible to the naked eye, while its additional security characteristics become clearer when examined under a microscope or pick glass.

The security thread displays the SDC Enterprises logo and web address, which change between black and white depending on the viewing angle. This enables customers to carry out an additional visual check and provides greater confidence that they are using genuine SDC Enterprises material.

Ensuring Genuine SDC Enterprises Quality For maximum assurance, SDC Enterprises strongly recommends purchasing products only through its authorised distributors. Certificates of Conformity are also available for SDC Enterprises products, providing an additional means of verifying product quality and traceability. Through its redesigned packaging, holographic authenticity labels and integrated security threads, SDC Enterprises is strengthening the protection surrounding its testing consumables and helping laboratories maintain confidence in the reliability and consistency of their results. The company remains committed to protecting both its products and its customers, enabling textile testing laboratories around the world to continue testing with confidence using trusted SDC Enterprises quality.

UK Review

From kilowatts to kilograms: Evaluating the economics of single-zone RF yarn drying How the Strayfield MagnaTex 125 kW RF Dryer delivers high-performance yarn drying

Measuring what matters in textile drying Drying has a direct impact on textile production; from throughput and energy consumption to the consistency of the finished product. For this reason, evaluating a dryer requires more than looking at its rated power. The meaningful measures are moisture removal, production throughput, energy consumption and cost per kilogram. Radio Frequency (RF) drying offers a fundamentally different approach to conventional heating. RF energy interacts directly with the material, producing volumetric heating and enabling rapid, uniform moisture removal.

For textile applications, this provides an effective way to dry yarns, fibres, hanks, tops and blended materials while maintaining control over the drying process.

Performance in practice The performance of an RF dryer is ultimately demonstrated by the amount of moisture it removes and the production rate it achieves. In a practical evaluation at one particular textile facility, the Strayfield MagnaTex 125 kW RF dryer processed 10 packages from an after-hydro weight of 21.090 kg to an after-RF weight of 14.440 kg. This represents a total moisture removal of 6.650 kg, or 0.665 kg per package and a weight of 1.44 kg per package at the output. Operating at a belt speed of 9.1 m/h and a package layout of 6 x 5, or 30 packages per metre, the calculated evaporation rate and output production were:

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

9.1 x 30 x 0.665 = 181.45 Litre/hr and 9.1 x 30 x 1.44 = 393 kg/hr The system recorded input power consumption of 220 kW (approx) 181 / 225 = 0.82 Litre/kW Or 393/220 = 0.55 kW/kg Compared to a competing doublezone RF dryer at the same location, the MagnaTex system delivered an almost 14.5% performance improvement, while also saving floor space. Results can vary according to yarn type, package construction, moisture content, loading density, belt speed, machine condition, electrical supply and other operating conditions. The Strayfield machine had also not yet been serviced and optimised for better performance when these figures were recorded.

Strayfield RF Dryer: MagnaTex SO125TS: 125 kW in a single zone The Strayfield MagnaTex SO125TS is a 125 kW RF Textile Dryer designed for high-capacity drying of yarns, fibres, hanks, tops and blended materials.

UK Review

Its single-zone configuration provides 125 kW of RF output power through a 1,400 mm conveyor belt, offering a high-capacity solution for manufacturers looking to achieve demanding drying rates within a single RF zone.

 Flat Plate Electrodes: Designed to

Material

Production capacity

Polyester

1,375 kg/hr

Acrylic (15%)

1,269 kg/hr

Wool/Acrylic (33%–11%)

750 kg/hr

Cotton (52%–08%)

375 kg/hr

Poly/Cotton (30%–05%)

660 kg/hr

provide a consistent RF field across the drying zone, supporting uniform energy distribution and moisture removal.  Low-Density Drying: The MagnaTex operates with a lower material density within the RF field, allowing better exposure of the yarn packages to RF energy and supporting efficient moisture removal.  Double-Ended RF System: RF energy is applied from both ends of the drying chamber, helping to create a more balanced and uniform drying process across the material.  Dual Extraction: Extraction from both ends of the dryer helps manage moisture-laden air efficiently, supporting effective moisture removal throughout the drying process. Together, these design features are engineered to maximise the effectiveness of the RF field and deliver uniform, efficient and highperformance drying in a single-zone configuration.

Ramie Cotton (29%–12%)

971 kg/hr

Performance-led RF drying

Wool (42%–17%)

660 kg/hr

Viscose (80%–11%)

239 kg/hr

The variation between these figures reflects the application-specific nature of textile drying. Fibre type, blend, moisture content and process requirements all influence achievable production rates. The SO125TS is specified for 370– 430 V, 3 phase, 3 wire, 50/60 Hz, with a 250 kVA installed/consumed electrical load.

The Strayfield MagnaTex Advantage The performance of the MagnaTex is also driven by the design of its RF system. Several key engineering features contribute to its ability to deliver efficient and uniform textile drying: Production capacities include:

Strayfield has more than 50 years of

The MagnaTex textile range includes 15, 25, 40, 50, 85, 100 and 125 kW systems, allowing the RF power level to be matched to the application. At the top end, the MagnaTex SO125TS combines 125 kW of RF output, a 1,400 mm conveyor belt and a single-zone configuration for highcapacity textile drying. The key to evaluating such a system is not simply the number of kilowatts or zones. It is the relationship between moisture removed, kilograms processed and energy consumed. That is where the performance of an RF dryer becomes a measurable production advantage. Strayfield MagnaTex brings more than five decades of RF engineering experience to textile drying, with technology designed around one objective: delivering high-performance drying where it matters, on the production floor. For manufacturers evaluating yarn drying capacity or looking to improve drying economics, Strayfield can assess the material, moisture-removal requirement and production target to

RF engineering experience and more

determine whether the MagnaTex

than 4000 global installations.

SO125TS is the right fit.

UK Review

The new VeriVide UltraView60

VeriVide expands its LED colour assessment range VeriVide, a member of the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA), is expanding its UltraView range of visual colour assessment equipment with the launch of a new compact model designed to make tuneable LED technology accessible to more organisations across textile and apparel supply chains. The new UltraView60 provides the same colour assessment technology and functionality as VeriVide’s existing UltraView system, but in a smaller and more cost-effective format for businesses that do not require a large viewing area or where laboratory space is limited. At the same time, the existing UltraView has been renamed UltraView90, creating a two-model range based around different viewing areas while retaining identical core technology and capabilities. The development comes as brands, textile manufacturers, suppliers and testing laboratories increasingly transition from conventional fluorescent lighting to LED technology for the visual assessment of colour.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

Fundamental consistency Consistent lighting conditions are fundamental to colour evaluation throughout textile supply chains, particularly where materials and finished products may be assessed at several different locations before reaching the consumer. Changes in lighting technology therefore need to be introduced consistently if manufacturers and their customers are to avoid discrepancies in colour approval. VeriVide, based in Leicester, UK, has specialised in controlled lighting and colour assessment for more than 60 years and developed the UltraView range to provide greater flexibility as specifications continue to evolve. Both UltraView60 and UltraView90 employ tuneable LED technology and can support an unlimited number of illuminants, including VeriVide’s A-rated CIE D65 and CIE D50, CIE Illuminant A and a range of LED and other specified light sources. The systems are designed to meet or exceed international colour assessment

standards including ISO 3664, ISO 3668, ISO 13076, ISO 23603, ASTM D1729, AATCC EP9 and BS 950-1.

Additional sources A significant feature of the technology is the ability to introduce additional light sources through software updates during servicing and calibration. “This is becoming increasingly important as brands and retailers adopt new LED specifications,” says VeriVide Director Adam Dakin. “Rather than being restricted to the illuminants selected when a cabinet is originally purchased, UltraView installations can consequently be adapted as requirements change. This both extends equipment life and helps to maintain common assessment conditions at different points in global supply chains. UltraView systems are designed for more than ten years of typical use.” The introduction of UltraView60 also gives organisations greater flexibility in deploying common technology across different facilities. Larger viewing areas can be provided by UltraView90 where

UK Review required, while the smaller UltraView60 can be installed at locations where space, cost or the scale of testing makes the larger cabinet unnecessary. Both systems use a digital touchscreen rather than the numbered buttons traditionally employed on colour assessment cabinets. Individual illuminants are clearly identified on screen, allowing operators to switch quickly between different lighting conditions when checking colour appearance and metamerism. The touchscreen can also be configured with customised button sets for individual customers. A textile supplier working for several brands or retailers, for example, can create dedicated settings containing the specified illuminants for each customer, reducing the potential for operators to select incorrect lighting conditions.

Specialist expertise The UltraView60 launch builds on VeriVide’s longstanding involvement in textile colour assessment and reflects the increasing importance of managing the industry’s move to LED illumination without rendering existing equipment obsolete.

Russell Thorpe of Verivide at ITM 2026 with DigiEye

“Colour consistency remains a critical issue throughout textile and apparel manufacturing, and it becomes increasingly challenging when supply chains stretch across many different companies and countries,” says BTMA CEO Jason Kent. “VeriVide is a good example of the specialist expertise that exists within the UK textile machinery and technology sector. The ability to combine accurate, standardised colour assessment with equipment that can

evolve as lighting specifications change is particularly valuable as the industry makes the transition to LED. Making that capability available in a more compact format should also help extend its use across a wider range of textile businesses.”

About VeriVide VeriVide is a UK manufacturer specialising in colour and appearance assessment, with more than 60 years of expertise in controlled lighting and colour management. Its solutions are used by brands, manufacturers, suppliers and testing laboratories around the world to support accurate and consistent colour assessment throughout global supply chains. The company manufactured the established fluorescent CAC range, which has now been succeeded by the UltraView range of tuneable LED light booths for visual colour assessment. Alongside UltraView, DigiEye provides non-contact digital colour measurement and imaging, capturing both the colour and visual appearance of products as calibrated digital images that can be assessed, communicated and archived digitally. Its technology is used across a variety of industries, including textiles and apparel, plastics, food and drink, paints and coatings, print and packaging, cosmetics and personal care, and homeware. VeriVide is also an official master distributor of Pantone, RAL and NCS. 

UK Review

Roaches: Continuous innovation across generations From laboratory dyeing and finishing systems documented in the PTJ archives to today's advanced testing and technical textile technologies, Roaches' development reflects more than four decades of change in the textile industry. In the textile industry, some relationships are measured in months, some in years, and a select few in generations. For Roaches (Advanced Dyeing Solutions), its association with Pakistan Textile Journal provides an interesting record of that continuity, stretching back more than four decades.

finishing mills and textile development laboratories. One example from the archives is the Pyrotec S, featured in the September 1995 issue. Described at the time as a new concept in infrared technology for laboratory sample dyeing, the system was promoted for its flexibility, cost effectiveness and environmentally clean operation. By the time of PTJ's UK Review in September 2002, the emphasis was already on what the publication then described as “Continuous Product Development.” Roaches' dyeing and finishing machinery incorporated greater process control and data logging, while its range was expanding further into quality-control and testing equipment. Among the equipment pictured in that 2002 Review was the Martindale APS. Its appearance provides an interesting comparison with the considerably more advanced testing systems being developed by Roaches today.

From engineering solutions to digital testing

Pyrotec S advertisement September, 1995

The earliest record identified in the PTJ archives dates to 1980, when a Roaches steamer appeared in the Journal. At a time when access to international technical information was far more limited than it is today, specialist publications provided an important connection between machinery manufacturers, textile producers and technologists in markets such as the United Kingdom and Pakistan. Over subsequent decades, Roaches continued to appear in PTJ through technical coverage and advertising, documenting the company's evolving portfolio of equipment for dyehouses,

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

Roaches of earlier decades manufactured a remarkably diverse range of equipment, from textile dyeing machinery to bespoke engineering solutions for entirely different industries. The common thread was an ability to approach engineering problems and develop practical solutions. That philosophy remains, but the technology around it has changed considerably. Today, developing a new generation of textile testing equipment has become an important area of activity for Roaches, with increasingly sophisticated digital systems designed to meet the requirements of high-quality and highperformance textiles. The Martindale AXYZ, for example, represents a significant progression in abrasion and pilling testing. Developed to improve laboratory productivity, the

Roaches feature September, 2002

system combines digital operation with high testing capacity, giving textile manufacturers and laboratories a greater level of automation than previous generations of equipment. The progression is particularly striking when viewed alongside the Martindale APS featured in PTJ's 2002 UK Review. The fundamental requirement for reliable textile testing remains, but the expectations surrounding automation, productivity, data handling and ease of operation have moved considerably forward.

New approaches to finishing Roaches' development is also extending into technologies for modern and technical textiles. The Fortis Infrared Coater and Bonder reflects this direction. Conventional coating and bonding equipment can require substantial floor space, operate relatively slowly and encounter inconsistencies in liquor application. Fortis has been developed around a more compact and ergonomic approach, with the objective of providing faster and more sustainable processing for textile development. This combination of testing, dyeing and finishing expertise places Roaches within a textile industry that is itself

UK Review

Liam O'Neill, Seth Seagraves and Greg Beck of Roaches with Nadeem Mazhar and Saad Ahmed Mazhar during their visit to Roaches in Leeds.

changing rapidly. Performance requirements are becoming more demanding, technical textiles are expanding into new applications, and laboratories increasingly require equipment capable of producing reliable and repeatable results while improving efficiency.

Looking ahead Roaches has experienced a sustained period of expansion, entering new international markets and introducing its technologies to new regions and generations of textile producers and professionals.

With a growing team in Leeds, the company sees further opportunities in technical textiles and intends to strengthen its position in dyeing, finishing and testing technologies. Looking back at the Roaches equipment documented in PTJ in 1980, the Pyrotec S of 1995 and the Martindale APS featured in the 2002 UK Review provides more than an exercise in nostalgia. It illustrates how textile machinery and laboratory requirements have evolved over several decades and how manufacturers have had to evolve with them.

Martindale AXYZ advances abrasion and pilling testing The Martindale test remains one of the textile industry's established methods for assessing a material's resistance to abrasion and its tendency to pill. Roaches' latest generation of Martindale equipment combines this established testing principle with digital control, flexible test capacity and improved laboratory operation. The Roaches Martindale is available with four, six, eight or nine test heads, enabling laboratories to select a configuration appropriate to their testing requirements. Individual test revolutions can be recorded for each test head, while abrasion, pilling and sock-abrasion accessories extend the range of applications. A touchscreen interface provides straightforward programming of test methods and process control, with Roaches emphasising ease of operation and reduced training requirements for laboratory technicians. Sample holders

and weights are accommodated in ergonomically designed storage, while test specimens are secured using

twisting-action clamping rings. For abrasion testing, the fabric is rubbed against a standard abradant cloth or other specified reference material. Performance is assessed according to the number of Lissajous revolutions required to reach a defined point of distress.

Pilling testing uses a different test-cycle movement, specimen size and applied weight, with the test specimen rubbed against the same fabric rather than standard abradant cloth. :chatgptcontent-reference. The equipment supports a broad range of recognised test methods, including ASTM D4966, ASTM D4970, EN ISO 12947 and EN ISO 12945-2, alongside numerous other international and brand-specific requirements. Roaches can also supply ancillary equipment and consumables conforming to major international standards and customer requirements. The current Martindale provides an interesting comparison with the Martindale APS featured in PTJ's 2002 UK Review. Nearly a quarter of a century later, the underlying need for reliable abrasion and pilling assessment remains, while digital control, flexibility and laboratory efficiency have become increasingly important. 

UK Review

Tatham hemp fibre processing: From field to fibre With around 150 years of engineering experience, Tatham is a UK-based manufacturer of machinery and complete processing systems for natural and staple fibres. Its technologies are used across applications including nonwovens, automotive materials, wound care, composites and, increasingly, industrial hemp fibre processing. As interest in hemp as a sustainable industrial fibre develops, efficient processing technology is becoming increasingly important. Separating hemp straw into usable fibre, shiv/hurd and dust fractions provides opportunities not only for fibre production, but also for nonwoven manufacture and valuable coproducts.

A complete approach to hemp processing Tatham offers a complete “Field to Fibre” processing solution designed to process retted hemp straw and efficiently separate the material into its principal components. Systems can incorporate hemp decortication, fibre cleaning and final cleaning, shiv/hurd separation and processing, fibre baling, nonwoven production for mat formation and airlay systems for insulation products. This provides a route from harvested and retted straw through to clean, baled fibre and, where required, finished nonwoven products.

Modular processing capacity A key feature is the modular design of the processing systems. This enables processors to select a configuration appropriate to current production requirements while retaining the flexibility to expand capacity as the business develops. A starter configuration can process up to 1,500 kg/hr of hemp straw. Additional cleaning equipment can increase capacity to approximately 2,000 kg/hr, while larger configurations can reach processing rates of 3,000–4,000 kg/hr. This scalable approach can be particularly relevant to emerging hemp fibre industries, where feedstock availability, market development and production volumes may increase progressively rather than requiring fullscale investment from the outset.

Decortication and fibre cleaning At the centre of the process is the decortication stage. Retted hemp straw is introduced through a bale input system capable of handling rectangular and round bales, as well as loose material depending on the configuration. The material then passes through conveyors, straw walkers, stem breakers, cleaners and opening equipment. These stages progressively break down the hemp stalk and separate the valuable bast fibre from the woody inner core. When suitably field-retted straw is processed, the decortication section is designed to target approximately 70% removal of shiv/hurd before the first picker/opener. A stem breaker can also be incorporated where straw quality or retting conditions are less than ideal.

Following decortication, the fibre passes through progressive cleaning stages to remove remaining shiv/hurd and unwanted material. Depending on the required fibre specification, the system can incorporate straw walkers, step cleaners, hopper feeders and picker/openers. Dust extraction is integrated throughout the line, while an additional finishing section can be incorporated where higher levels of fibre cleanliness are required. The cleaned fibre can then be collected and baled for storage, transportation or subsequent processing.

From fibre to higher-value products Hemp processing can create value far beyond the fibre itself. Shiv, or hurd, is an increasingly valuable co-product, with growing demand across the USA and Europe for sustainable construction. Combined with a lime-based binder, it forms hemp-lime (hempcrete), a lightweight, insulating material used for walls, insulation and infill. Hemp shiv can also be manufactured into hemp-lime blocks and bricks, as well as a range of insulation and lightweight building products. Its natural thermal and moisture-regulating properties, low weight and good fire performance make hemp hurd a versatile material for energy-efficient, sustainable construction. Cleaned hemp fibre can also be taken forward into mat formation or airlay processing for applications such as insulation and other technical nonwoven products. This allows processors to move beyond raw or semi-processed fibre into higher-value applications. Rather than supplying individual machines as standalone solutions, Tatham engineers complete processing systems incorporating mechanical equipment, material handling, dust extraction, electrical controls, PLC automation and operator training. Equipment is manufactured in the UK and supported by in-house engineering and software development together with ongoing technical and remote support. Tatham is also supporting processors internationally, with recent hemp processing lines supplied to customers in Türkiye and Australia, reflecting growing interest in establishing commercial-scale hemp fibre processing capability across different markets and feedstock requirements.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

UK Review

Alchemie advances digital dyeing and precision finishing British innovation combines lower resource consumption with new approaches to commercial textile processing. BTMA member Alchemie Technology is developing digital dyeing and finishing systems that address two closely connected challenges for textile manufacturers: reducing environmental impact and controlling production costs. Its Endeavour dyeing platform and Novara finishing technology apply colourants and functional chemistry precisely, reducing reliance on conventional immersion and padding processes. Recent developments include an assessment of Endeavour’s resource efficiency, the expansion of its Dye-toService model and plans for a substantial digital processing facility in Portugal.

Measurable savings in polyester dyeing In May 2026, Alchemie reported results from an assessment conducted by BluWin under Fashion for Good’s Advanced Process Matrix initiative. Undertaken in Taiwan in September 2025, the assessment compared Endeavour’s polyester dyeing process with conventional jet dyeing and thermosol processing. According to the company, the dyeing stage, excluding pre- and post-treatment, achieved water savings of up to 92% against jet dyeing and 90% against thermosol. Total energy consumption fell

by up to 70% and 86%, respectively, with corresponding reductions in greenhouse gas emissions.

evaluate colour accuracy, fabric

The fully electric process eliminated steam use, although electricity consumption increased by between 30% and 128% in the comparisons. This distinction is relevant when evaluating the technology against a mill’s existing energy mix and utility costs.

also supports production closer to

Alchemie reported operation at 35 metres per minute, with higher speeds potentially achievable depending on fabric specifications. The polyester fabrics assessed achieved colour-fastness grades of at least four.

Applications include water repellency,

Precision application and commercial flexibility

energy consumption.

Endeavour uses high-velocity liquid application combined with controlled airflow to drive colourants into the textile structure. Digital adjustment of droplet volume and density allows application to be adapted to different fabric weights. Alchemie describes the technology as an open system compatible with existing colourant formulations, reducing dependence on proprietary consumables. Its Dye-to-Service model seeks to make this technology more accessible through flexible commercial arrangements and smaller minimum order quantities. Manufacturers and brands can

performance and production throughput before increasing volumes. The approach demand, potentially reducing inventory exposure. For finishing, Novara provides noncontact application with digitally controlled placement and patterning. stain resistance, flame retardancy and other functional treatments. Alchemie reports operating-cost reductions exceeding 30% compared with pad application, alongside lower chemical and

A larger industrial platform Announced in May 2026, Project Wave envisages approximately €15 million in capital expenditure for a facility in Gilmonde, northern Portugal. Plans include three Endeavour systems and one Novara system, with operation expected in January 2029. The proposed Dye-to-Service facility would process polyester and cotton woven and knitted fabrics, targeting annual capacities of up to 54 million metres of dyed textiles and 18 million metres of finished textiles.

Alchemie’s Novara precision finishing system (left) and Endeavour digital dyeing system (right), designed to reduce resource consumption in textile processing. Images: Alchemie Technology.

UK Review

James Heal WickView brings moisture management testing closer to real-life performance As textile and apparel manufacturers place greater emphasis on comfort, performance and functionality, the ability of a fabric to manage perspiration has become increasingly important. This is particularly relevant for sportswear, activewear, base layers, footwear and other products designed to be worn close to the body. James Heal’s WickView Moisture Management Tester has been developed to provide a more detailed understanding of how moisture moves through textile materials. Using advanced imaging technology, WickView tracks and records moisture transfer through a specimen, enabling laboratories and product developers to assess wicking behaviour and moisture management performance visually as well as through measurable data. Wicking is the movement of liquid through a textile by capillary action. In garments worn during physical activity, effective wicking helps transport perspiration away from the skin towards the outer surface of the fabric, where it can evaporate. The result can be improved wearer comfort and a cooler, drier feeling.

draw liquid from the delivery system in a manner closer to the interaction between fabric and skin.

James Heal identifies applications including base-layer garments, football kits, running apparel, gym wear, socks and footwear fabrics, making the technology relevant to the expanding functional and performance textile sector.

The recorded images are analysed through James Heal’s TestWise software. Users can observe live video capture of the test, compare wet-region boundaries and replay the way moisture spreads through a specimen.

Testing in vertical and horizontal positions

The software also converts the observed behaviour into measurable parameters. These include wetted area, maximum wetted area, maximum wetted distance, spreading speed and directional spreading speed. Different specimens can be compared, while previous results can also be recalled for comparison.

One of WickView’s distinguishing characteristics is its ability to test specimens in both vertical and horizontal orientations. This is significant because clothing is not worn exclusively in a horizontal position. Conventional horizontal moisturemanagement testing can therefore provide only part of the picture. By rotating the WickView test chamber, laboratories can examine how a material behaves in an orientation that more closely reflects the way garments are actually worn. This capability can also be useful when assessing nonwovens and other materials used in real-world applications.

Advanced imaging records both sides of the fabric During a WickView test, the specimen is held so that both its skin-facing and outer surfaces remain exposed. Moisture is introduced on the skin side through a controlled water-delivery system. High-definition cameras positioned on either side of the specimen then record the movement of moisture as it spreads across and through the material. The imaging system records both sides regardless of the colour or pattern of the specimen. An important aspect of the system is that moisture is not forced through the material. The water-delivery arrangement is designed to replicate perspiration, allowing the textile itself to

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

Turning visual behaviour into measurable data

This combination of visual evidence and numerical data can be particularly useful during fabric development. Rather than simply identifying whether a fabric absorbs moisture, developers can examine where the moisture travels, how quickly it spreads, how large an area becomes wet and whether its movement differs according to direction.

Supporting development of performance textiles WickView forms part of James Heal’s wider range of performance-testing equipment, alongside instruments for air permeability, hydrostatic head, drying rate, water repellency and wet abrasion testing. For textile manufacturers seeking to add greater functionality and value to garments, such testing provides an opportunity to assess performance during product development rather than relying solely on subjective claims. For Pakistan’s textile and apparel industry, where manufacturers are increasingly exploring sportswear, technical textiles and higher-value garment production, objective moisture-management testing can become an important component of product development and quality assurance.

Sellers: Precision finishing and fibre recovery for carpets Sellers Textile Engineers combines engineering expertise, flexible machine design and international technical support to provide finishing systems for carpets, carpet tiles and artificial grass. Its equipment is designed, manufactured, assembled and tested at its UK manufacturing plant, with in-house component production supporting solutions tailored to individual customer and product requirements. The company’s range covers coating, drying, secondary backing and shearing, supported by process controls designed to provide accurate and repeatable operating parameters. Equipment is available as complete turnkey systems, individual machines and upgrades to existing processing lines.

Coating and drying technology Sellers supplies finishing lines for woven Wilton and Axminster carpets, tufted secondary-backed carpets using conventional or powder lamination, artificial grass and carpet tiles. Its coating systems accommodate latex, bitumen, PVC and polyurethane, while bath-mat equipment includes foam and gel-foam systems, direct-spread applicators and embossing units. Both high-capacity and compact woven carpet plants are available. Improved guiding and product tension control help manage material through the finishing process, while dryer

developments focus on reducing heat loss and optimising energy use. These developments include redesigned fan pressure boxes and impingement nozzles, modulating gas burners and accessible filters for easier cleaning. An enhanced dual-zone arrangement allows a temperature differential of up to 80°C between the top and bottom zones, providing flexibility for different processing requirements. Dryers can be heated by gas, oil or steam. Touchscreen interfaces and programmable logic controller (PLC) systems support machine operation and process control.

Precision shearing The Sellers Shear is designed to improve carpet finish quality while supporting economical and efficient production. Features include a tensioncontrol drive system, touchscreen operation and fault diagnosis, enhanced cleaning arrangements and improved bladestock for longer blade life. Pivoting beds provide further flexibility within the shearing process. Together, these features support controlled finishing across different carpet products.

Flexible line configurations Sellers offers ancillary equipment for both new installations and upgrades. Its

range includes cleaning units with full extraction, pivoting guiders, vertical and chest steamers, accumulators with built-in tension control, automated latex mixing systems and full PLC line controls. This modular approach allows manufacturers to configure equipment around their product range and processing requirements, or improve selected stages of an existing line.

Fibrebak carpet recycling Sellers also applies its carpet machinery expertise to waste processing through Fibrebak, a pile-removal system that separates reclaimed fibre from carpet backing. The system is suitable for carpet and carpet-tile factory waste as well as postconsumer material. By separating the pile fibre and backing, Fibrebak supports material recovery and offers a means of reducing the volume of waste sent to landfill and associated disposal costs.

Specialised engineering Beyond carpet finishing, Sellers designs and manufactures specialised machinery, including customised geotextile processing equipment, for customers in the UK and overseas. This extends its engineering capabilities into applications requiring purpose-built material handling and processing solutions.

UK Review

The Textile Institute: Connecting the global textile community since 1910 From its origins in Manchester to an international network spanning the textile supply chain, The Textile Institute has spent more than a century promoting professional knowledge, education and excellence. Its longstanding links with Pakistan continue through the Lahore Section and generations of textile professionals. Manchester's place in textile history needs little introduction. At the height of Britain's industrial development, the city and its surrounding region became one of the world's most important centres of textile manufacturing, machinery, research and technical knowledge. It was within this environment that The Textile Institute was established.

A profession without boundaries

The Institute was formally inaugurated in Manchester on 22 April 1910 with 199 members drawn from different areas of the textile industry worldwide. Its first conference was held in Bradford later that year, while the Journal of The Textile Institute, also launched in 1910, remains its flagship academic publication.

The Institute's scope has evolved alongside the industry itself. Textiles today extend far beyond conventional spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing and garment manufacture. Fibres and textile structures are increasingly integral to technical textiles, composites, medical applications, filtration, protective products, transportation and advanced materials.

From the beginning, its purpose extended beyond any individual manufacturing sector. Research, education and training, professional exchange and the dissemination of textile knowledge became central to its activities.

Sections and Special Interest Groups provide opportunities for members to exchange knowledge and organise activities around geographical areas and specialist fields. Its international structure includes representation in Pakistan, continuing a longstanding relationship with the country's textile community.

A major milestone came in 1925 when The Textile Institute was granted a Royal Charter. The Charter provided the foundation for its development as an international professional body, while the first Fellowship was also awarded in 1925. More than a century later, The Textile Institute continues to bring together professionals, students, academics, researchers, companies and educational institutions working across the textile, clothing, footwear and associated industries. Its International Headquarters remain in Manchester.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2026

Vice President Jason Kent with CEO Stephanie Dick and President Charles Wood

Knowledge dissemination and professional development remain central to the Institute's work. Through publications, conferences, seminars, professional qualifications and links with education, it connects academia with industry while encouraging continuing professional development and the transfer of knowledge between generations.

Honouring service to the industry Recognition of professional achievement also has a long history within The Textile Institute. Its oldest

distinction, The Institute Medal, was inaugurated in 1921 to recognise distinguished service to the textile industry and to the Institute. Over the decades, further awards have recognised achievement in education, research, innovation, design, sustainability and professional service. Together they reflect a principle that has remained central to the Institute throughout its history: progress in textiles depends not only upon technology, but upon people who develop knowledge, apply it in industry and pass it to succeeding generations.

The Textile Institute in Pakistan The Textile Institute maintains an active and longstanding presence in Pakistan through its Lahore Section, currently headed by Mr. Nusrat Ali Chishti, who succeeded Prof. S. M. Qutab as Chairman in 2025. The Institute presently has 20 members in Pakistan, representing some of the country's most experienced and highly regarded textile professionals. The Lahore Section is a vibrant professional body, organising conferences, professional and educational activities, participating in major textile exhibitions and providing a forum for the exchange of technical knowledge and industry experience.

UK Review

Textile Institute Manchester Lahore Section members with Rebbeca Price and Stephanie Dick at the Professional Qualifications Award Ceremony

Prof. S. M. Qutab and the Textile Institute Prof. S. M. Qutab entered Pakistan's textile industry in 1953, beginning his career as an apprentice at Lyalpur Cotton Mills in Faisalabad, then Lyallpur. The experience provided a strong grounding in weaving and mill operations that was to shape a career extending across more than seven decades. In 1954, he joined Colony Textile Mills in Multan, progressing through weaving management. His career subsequently included a period with the Pakistan Industrial Development Corporation (PIDC) before returning to Colony and becoming involved in mill modernisation and technical development. His work later took him to Ireland, where he was involved in establishing a textile manufacturing project for the Colony group, combining new weaving technology with the training of local personnel. Prof. Qutab's association with The Textile Institute dates back to the late 1960s. Over the following decades, he became closely involved with its activities in Pakistan and eventually served as Chairman of the Lahore Section, contributing to professional meetings, seminars and conferences and encouraging textile technologists and engineers to pursue professional recognition. His industrial career continued at senior level when he joined Nishat in 1989, where his responsibilities included the development of a new mill and the introduction of internationally recognised qualitymanagement systems. Nishat subsequently achieved ISO 9000 certification through SGS. After leaving fulltime mill management,

Prof. S. M. Qutab receiving The Institute Medal at The Textile Institute Medals and Awards Lunch

he continued as an independent consultant to textile mills in Pakistan and Bangladesh, while contributing to textile education, technical seminars and the mentoring of younger professionals. In 2019, Prof. Qutab received The Institute Medal, the Institute's oldest award, established in 1921 for distinguished service to the industry and to the Institute. He remains the only Pakistani to have received The Institute Medal since its inauguration. He was also admitted as a Fellow and Chartered Member of The Textile Institute on 11 June 2019. Now 93, more than seven decades after entering the industry, Prof. Qutab remains professionally active as a consultant, particularly in weaving, and continues to share his experience with younger students, engineers and textile professionals. Pakistan Textile Journal is privileged to have him as its Bureau Chief in Lahore, continuing an association through which his knowledge and experience remain closely connected with the industry he has served for a lifetime. His complete journey from the weaving sheds of the 1950s through mill management, overseas projects, consultancy, education and professional service is a much larger story that Pakistan Textile Journal intends to document separately.

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