Pakistan Textile Journal – October-November 2023

Established 1951 October - November 2023

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing II / ITMA ASIA + CITME

Calendar of Events

Textile Asia 2023, Lahore Dates: October 13th to 15th 2023.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Texworld Paris Dates: February 5th to 7th, 2024.

Dates: June 4th to 8th, 2024.

Venue: Paris

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2023 th

rd

Dates: November 19 to 23 , 2023.

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

ITM 2024

FESPA 2024 Dates: March 19th to 22nd 2024.

Venue: Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

HIGHTEX 2024 Dates: June 4th to 8th, 2024.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

ShanghaiTex 2023 Dates: November 22nd to 25th 2023.

Venue: SNIEC, Shanghai, China.

Techtextil 2024

INTEX SOUTH ASIA 2024

Dates: April 23rd to 26th, 2024

Dates: August 7th to 9th 2024.

Venue: Frankfurt, Germany.

Venue: Colombo, SriLanka.

Heimtextil 2024, Frankfurt Dates: January 09th, to 12th, 2024 Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

IGATEX Pakistan 2024, Lahore Dates: May 1st to 4th 2024.

JIAM 2024 OSAKA Dates: November 27th to 30th 2024.

Venue: Osaka, Japan.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Index 2026

DOMOTEX Hannover 2024 Dates: January 11th to 14th 2024.

Venue: Hannover, Germany.

iCADEX Pakistan 2024, Lahore Dates: May 1st to 4th 2024.

Dates: April 21st to 24th, 2026.

Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

DOMOTEX asiaCHINAFLOOR 2024

Istanbul Yarn Fair

2

ITMA 2027

Dates: February 22 to 24 , 2024.

Dates: May 28th to 30th 2024.

Dates: September 16th to 22nd, 2027.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Venue: Hanover, Germany.

nd

th

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Publisher Nadeem Mazhar Editor in Chief Amina Baqai Associate Editor Nimrah Nadeem Production Manager Mazhar Ali

Vol. LXXII No. 10-11 October-November 2023

Rs. 565.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Challenges mount as Pakistan's textile exports dips 18% in 2023

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Hony-Editorial Board Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

CORPORATE NEWS The machine customers have been waiting for . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol welcomes largest French Fashion brand Kiabi as member .20

Syed Mahfooz Qutab

Clear success – it takes two signals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Smart Duo yarn clearing applies innovative technology for practical results

Mian Iftkhar Afzal

with their integrated solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

B.S.N.C State, M.Sc. (Leeds) C.TEXT.F.T.I (UK)

Santoni Shanghai Acquires a Leading German Knitting Machinery maker Terrot in

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

SETEX and Navis TubeTex have teamed up to improve textile dyeing and finishing

move to create a new ecosystem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 GtA and Monforts welcome the return of global exhibitions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Successful in Pakistan thanks to our partners service traders and Tekstil Corporation .30

Editorial & Advertising Office B-4, 2nd Floor, 64/21, M.A.C.H, Miran M. Shah Road, Karachi - Pakistan Tel: +92-21-34311674-5 Fax: +92-21-34533616 Email: info@ptj.com.pk URL: http://www.ptj.com.pk

PTJ Europe Ltd. Correspondence & Mailing address: 93 Fleming Place, Bracknell, RG12 2GN, United Kingdom Tel: +44 792 2228 721 Registered Office: Dairy House, Money Row Green, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2ND, UK Registered no. 09141989

30

28

DYES AND CHEMICALS Industry’s largest library of colors now fully integrated into Shima Seiki design system with Color Atlas by Archroma® . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi.

Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

32

38 34 FEATURES Graf HYPERTOP: The Future of Carding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Up to 0.5% good fiber savings

Suessen: 3D Compacting Pushes the Limits of Yarn Strength . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

40

Rieter is Raising the Bar with a New Generation of Draw Frames . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 SSM: Thread King III – Revisiting a Classic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 The third generation of the renowned Thread King winder

Nature Coatings Appoints iTextiles® as Exclusive Distributor in Pakistan: Expanding Reach of Sustainable Solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing Start with Baldwin and finish with perfection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Insight: Egypt textile industry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 A story of cooperation and trust with Biancalani agent in Egypt

46

Archroma celebrates a century of sulfur dye innovation at its Castellbisbal site in Spain 48 Rethinking energy with Monforts in Shanghai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 SPGPrints: Picking the right Rotary Screens when printing on knits or wovens . . . . . .52 Bruckner is the first choice of Finishing for Texpasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2023 The highlights from Groz-Beckert at ITMA in Milan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 World-class technology, local support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 How Swiss machinery companies serve the huge Chinese textile industry

50

The Trützschler Group at ITMA Asia 2023 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 Saurer at ITMA Asia + CITME – 2023 Shaping the future of textiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 Picanol to exhibit at ITMA ASIA + CITME in Hall 3, Booth C11 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67

62 54

56

EDITOR’S PAGE

Challenges mount as Pakistan's textile exports dips 18% in 2023 Pakistan's textile exporters faced a challenging year in 2022-23, encountering a significant setback as orders plummeted by almost 15per cent, with a total value of $16.5 billion. This marks a substantial 14.63 percent decline from the preceding year, 2021-22, when textile exports were valued at $19.33 billion. Disturbingly, data reveals a stark 18 percent decrease in the country's textile exports during the first nine months of the calendar year 2023, plummeting from $14.5 billion in 2022 to $11.9 billion.

Established 1951 October - November 2023

Printing and Finishing II / ITMA ASIA + CITME

The textile sector's exports in September 2023 were $1.35 billion, down 12 percent from the $1.53 billion recorded in the same month the previous year. This continuous decline underscores a worrisome trend for the government, grappling with a shortage of foreign exchange. The government heavily relies on non-debt creating dollar inflows, such as textile exports, to bolster its reserves.

The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) released data in October 2023, emphasizing the persistently challenging scenario faced by Pakistan's textile sector. The industry is intricately tied to export markets in the EU, the UK, the US, the UAE, and Turkey. This downturn in textile exports poses a severe concern for the government, which urgently needs to address the diminishing foreign exchange reserves.

October-November 2023.

Revival on the cards minister of commerce Gohar Ejaz, who is also the patron-in-chief of APTMA, conveyed a sense of confidence in the textile sector. As per him, a notable achievement in October 2023 was, that cotton arrivals surpassed five million bales, exceeding the previous year's figure of 4.9 million bales—a substantial 34 percent year-on-year increase. Ejaz attributed this success to the unwavering commitment of local farmers and the resilient nature of Pakistan's cotton industry.

In addition, Ejaz underscored the global growth of the textile market, which expanded from $573.22 billion in 2022 to $610.91 billion in 2023, signifying a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.6 percent. This positive trajectory hints at a potential revival for Pakistan's challenged textile exports.

Traditionally, Pakistan designates 60 percent of its total textile output for exports, with Punjab playing a pivotal role in the sector. About 70 percent of the textile industry is concentrated in Punjab, with Faisalabad as its hub. It's noteworthy that Pakistan holds the 8th position among the largest textile product exporters in Asia.

GSP renewal still uncertain The fourth joint Generalised Scheme of Preferences (GSP) Review Report from the European Commission and the European External Action Service (EEAS) has detailed the progress of eight GSP+ beneficiary countries, including Pakistan. The report assesses the effective implementation of the 27 international core conventions that underlie the GSP+ scheme. Compliance with these conventions is a prerequisite for beneficiary countries to maintain their GSP+ status, covering human rights, labor rights, environmental standards, and good governance for the period spanning 2020 to 2022.The report flagged several areas of concern, including political instability, constitutional challenges, an economic crisis, high inflation, and a severe shortage of foreign reserves. Notably, Pakistan holds the status of being the largest beneficiary of the GSP+ scheme. As the current GSP Regulation is set to expire by the end of 2023, Pakistan has initiated efforts to secure a renewal of its GSP+ status for the post-2023 period.

However, renewal bid faces challenges due to ongoing human rights violations, contentious blasphemy laws, and escalating religious intolerance and sectarian violence. Additionally, the country has struggled to achieve sustained development and poverty reduction, as expected by the GSP scheme. Italian news site InsideOver has raised concerns, suggesting uncertainty regarding the renewal of Pakistan's GSP+ status for the next decade.

7

Textile Briefs National Textile exports from Pakistan in September 2023 reported a significant decline of 17.07% yearon-year, amounting to $1.33 billion, as per data released by the State Bank of Pakistan (SBP). This marked a decrease compared to the $1.61 billion recorded in the same period in the previous year.

1

Polyester filament yarn (PFY) manufacturers in the textile industry are urging the government to extend anti-dumping duty (ADD) on PFY imports for a minimum of five years, as they aim to curtail the influx of dumped yarn into the country, primarily from China. PFY serves as a fundamental raw material for knitting and weaving, used in the production of polyester fab-

2

rics such as clothing, curtains, bed linens, ropes, and more.

In a meeting held at APTMA House in Lahore, Ms. Azmat Tahira, Collector Customs Lahore, addressed members of the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA).

She was accompanied by Ms. Farah Farooq, Additional Collector Customs Lahore, and Syed Kareem Adil, Deputy Director of IOCO. The gathering was warmly welcomed by APTMA's Senior Vice Chairman, Mr. Asad Shafi, along with Mr. Habib Anwar, Mr. Anjum Zafar, and Secretary General Mr. Raza Baqir.

3

Bahawalpur Division has solidified its position as a major contributor to cotton production in

4

Punjab, accounting for more than 44 percent of the total cotton crop in the region. Dr. Ehtesham Anwar, the Commissioner of Bahawalpur Division, proudly announced that Bahawalpur has set a new national record by cultivating cotton on a vast expanse of 2.13 million acres this year.

The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) urges the government to consider a reduction in power tariffs to reinvigorate the country's industrial sector. APTMA Chairman Asif Inam, speaking at a press conference, expressed optimism after a positive meeting with caretaker energy and trade ministers, foreseeing the resolution of power tariff issues.

5

British e-commerce giant Boohoo has taken a significant step in enhancing workplace safety and social responsibility by extending its participation to the Pakistan Accord.

6

In a significant development, Caretaker Punjab Chief Minister, Mohsin Naqvi, held a pivotal meeting with Prime Minister Kakar to address the pressing cotton issue. During their discussion, Chief Minister Naqvi stressed the importance of cotton farmers standing resolute and not selling their crops below the intervention price, as cotton prices in the province had taken a significant dip below the officially designated support price.

7

Textile Briefs International The home textiles industry of Bangladesh had witnessed an impressive surge in the preceding years. In fiscal 2021, overseas shipments of home textiles had soared to an impressive $1.13 billion, a figure that further escalated to a remarkable $1.62 billion in fiscal 2022. However, the unforeseen challenges posed by the Russian-Ukraine war and reduced consumer spending in developed economies have taken their toll on the industry, leading to a substantial decline in home textile exports to $1.09 billion in fiscal 2023.

1

In the first nine months of the year 2023, Cambodian exports have declined by 17.43 %, settling at a total of US $5.92

2

8

billion, marking a notable decline from the previous year's $7.17 billion during the same period.

Between January and September 2023, China's textile and apparel exports experienced a notable downturn, falling by 9.49 % to a total of US $223.14 billion. This decline is in stark contrast to the impressive figures of $246.55 billion recorded during the same period in 2022.

3

The journey of Indian textile and garment exports in the eight months leading up to September 30, 2023, has been marked by a significant twist. During this period, exports declined by 8.81 %, totalling US $16.79 billion, in contrast to the robust $18.42

4

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

billion from the previous fiscal year's same timeframe.

A closer look at the data unveils the underlying dynamics within the industry.

Textile product shipments, a vital segment of India's textile and clothing exports, saw a decrease to $9.83 billion in the first half of fiscal 2024, marking a fall of 3.59 % when compared to the first half of the preceding fiscal.

Japanese textile and garment import volume reached an impressive eight-month high in the month of August, showcasing a remarkable 16.4 % month-on-month growth.

However, when compared to the same period in the previous year, these imports faced a 13.7 % decline, settling at a total of 231,600 tons.

5

In a strategic move, the Thai Garment Industry Association has extended an enthusiastic embrace to the government's decision to disburse a generous Baht 10,000 in digital currency to the citizens, viewing it as a dynamic force to reshape Thailand's economic landscape. Yosthon Kitkuson, President of the association, is unwavering in his belief that providing every citizen with Baht 10,000 in digital currency is a masterstroke, poised to rekindle domestic purchasing power.

This visionary initiative holds the promise of reinvigorating retail sales, especially in the apparel sector, and breathing life back into an industry that has grappled with job cuts amidst lackluster sales, both at home and abroad.

6

News & Views Pakistan's textile exports experienced a notable decline of 17.07% on year-on-year basis Textile exports from Pakistan in September 2023 reported a significant decline of 17.07% year-on-year, amounting to $1.33 billion, as per data released by the State Bank of Pakistan (SBP). This marked a decrease compared to the $1.61 billion recorded in the same period in the previous year.

Similarly, textile exports on a monthly basis within the same period registered a 5.82% decline.

Cumulatively, for the first three months of fiscal year 2024 (3MFY24), textile exports experienced a 14.51% year-on-year contraction, totaling $4.07 billion, compared to $4.76 billion in 3MFY23.

It's important to highlight that textile products remained the primary exportable goods for Pakistan in September 2023, accounting for 53.87% of the total exports for that month.

Key contributors within the textile category included knitwear ($344.5 million), readymade garments ($261.71 million), and bedwear ($232.33 million).

However, all three subcategories experienced declines of 21.63%, 13.68%, and 14.13% year-on-year, respectively, compared to September 2022.

Polyester producers seek government’s aid, requests for continuation of anti-dumping duty on imports Polyester filament yarn (PFY) manufacturers in the textile industry are urging the government to extend antidumping duty (ADD) on PFY imports for a minimum of five years, as they aim to curtail the influx of dumped yarn into the country, primarily from China.

PFY serves as a fundamental raw material for knitting and weaving, used in the production of polyester fabrics such as clothing, curtains, bed linens, ropes, and more.

Stakeholders in the industry emphasize that the current ADD rates in Pakistan are relatively low when

10 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

compared to those imposed by other nations to counter Chinese imports.

Nonetheless, even with these relatively modest rates, ranging from 2.78 percent to 6.82 percent, with an average of 4.8 percent, the continued enforcement of ADD in Pakistan for the next five years is deemed crucial.

The past year posed significant challenges for manufacturers of manmade yarn, marked by a severe politico-economic crisis. Despite dwindling foreign exchange reserves and difficulties in opening Letters of Credit (LC), the influx of dumped PFY imports persisted.

This surge in dumping was largely attributed to the significant expansion of Chinese PFY production over the last couple of years. Chinese producers sought to utilize their newfound capacities, operating at over 90 percent capacity to present a favorable image to banks and local governments, ensuring access to the loans required to complete

their expansions, according to local industry reports.

Furthermore, importers have managed to evade or delay ADD payments for a considerable portion of the past six years. Although they secured stays in one high court, these stays were ultimately dismissed within a few months.

This has led to over Rs16 billion in uncollected ADD. In December 2022, the government reinstated a 5 percent regulatory duty on imports to counteract these issues.

Several countries, including the United States, Turkey, India and Vietnam have imposed ADD ranging from 16-32 percent on Chinese PFY imports. Brazil and Mexico have also initiated ADD on PFY from China.

Notably, Chinese PFY exports have continued to grow over the past four years, from 2019 to 2022. Exports of the product from China to Pakistan increased by 13-48 percent in each of these years.

Amidst the strengthening of the Pakistani rupee, traders are now exercising prudence in their PFY imports. This shift in behavior is expected to result in a reduction of imported inventory in the forthcoming months. PFY stands out as a key import that can be viably manufactured domestically, especially given the local production of its essential raw material, PTA. It's worth highlighting that in 2003, over 90 percent of the local demand for filament yarn was met through domestic production, emphasizing the substantial potential for self-sufficiency in this sector.

APTMA demands Customs of Pakistan to assure and resolve hiccups faced by exporters In a meeting held at APTMA House in Lahore, Ms. Azmat Tahira, Collector Customs Lahore, addressed members of the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA). She was accompanied by Ms. Farah Farooq, Additional Collector Customs Lahore, and Syed Kareem Adil, Deputy Director of IOCO. The gathering was warmly welcomed by APTMA's Senior Vice Chairman, Mr. Asad Shafi, along with Mr. Habib Anwar, Mr. Anjum Zafar, and Secretary General Mr. Raza Baqir.

Ms. Azmat Tahira acknowledged the significant role played by APTMA members in boosting textile exports from Pakistan. She assured the attendees that the Customs department is committed to facilitating the textile sector's exports by eliminating any procedural obstacles.

One of the key demands, the swift issuance of an Analysis Certificate, has been resolved to the satisfaction of exporters. Ms. Azmat Tahira revealed that the Input Output Coefficient Organisation (IOCO) of FBR, in collaboration with Customs Collectorate, will now provide Input Output ratios and wastage figures based on determinations made in Textile Notes compiled by FBR a few years ago. These determinations, crafted in consultation with trade associations, the National Textile University, industry experts, and leading exporters, are a mutually agreed document that will be adhered to diligently.

Ms. Azmat Tahira announced an open-door policy for exporters, welcoming them to approach any customs officer's office without prior appointments in case of issues, delays, or any related problems.

She assured exporters that system-related issues would be resolved shortly, and she pledged to personally address any delays in implementing amendments to software with the Directorate General of Reforms and Automation.

Responding to concerns about the maintenance of customs records in duplicate formats, she declared that exporters would now only be required to submit documents electronically, eliminating the requirement for simultaneous manual submission.

News & Views Prior to this, Mr. Asad Shafi, Senior Vice Chairman of APTMA, discussed the challenges faced by users of the Export Facilitation Scheme (EFS), particularly delays at various processing stages.

Several prominent exporters, including Mr. Anjum Zafar, Mr. Habib Anwar, and Mr. Faisal Pervaiz, called for the issuance of Analysis Certificates based on the previously determined guidelines outlined in FBR's Textile Notes.

Many of the attending exporters expressed their appreciation for the proactive approach of the Collector and her team in resolving trade and industry issues, with hopes for such facilitative measures to be replicated in other sectors.

Mr. Mohammad Raza Baqir extended gratitude to the Collector Customs Lahore at the conclusion of the meeting and proposed continued interactions between the trade and customs for the continued facilitation of exports.

Bahawalpur Division contributed more than 44 percent of the total cotton crop production in the region Bahawalpur Division has solidified its position as a major contributor to cotton production in Punjab, accounting for more than 44 percent of the total cotton crop in the region. Dr. Ehtesham Anwar, the Commissioner of Bahawalpur Division, proudly announced that Bahawalpur has set a new national record by cultivating cotton on a vast expanse of 2.13 million acres this year.

The total cotton cultivation in Punjab for the current year reached an impressive 4.8 million acres. Notably, this

surpasses the previous record held by Multan, where cotton was sown over 2.10 million acres back in 2006. Dr. Anwar, speaking to the media, emphasized the significant economic impact of this achievement, with an expected contribution of $1 billion to the national exchequer from Bahawalpur Division alone. He attributed this success to the unwavering dedication of hardworking farmers in the region.

This extraordinary accomplishment was the result of collaborative efforts, with administrative officers from Bahawalpur, Bahawalnagar, and Rahim Yar Khan playing a crucial role, along with strong support from the Agriculture Department.

Dr. Anwar further highlighted that this extensive cotton cultivation was executed in response to the directives of the Caretaker Chief Minister of Punjab, Mohsin Naqvi. The Chief Minister's vision aimed at generating $3 billion within a four-month period to address the pressing economic crisis. In contrast, it's worth noting that the International Monetary Fund (IMF) took over two

years to disburse a comparable sum of $1 billion for Pakistan.

Additionally, Dr. Anwar commended the keen interest and active involvement of Secretary Agriculture, Iftikhar Ali Sahu, in achieving this ambitious target within the designated timeframe. Secretary Sahu's frequent visits to Bahawalpur to monitor the performance of the Agriculture Department played a pivotal role in this extraordinary success.

Boohoo Signs Pakistan Accord to Boost Workplace Safety and Social Responsibility British e-commerce giant Boohoo has taken a significant step in enhancing workplace safety and social responsibility by extending its participation to the Pakistan Accord. This initiative builds upon Boohoo's commitment to the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, holding brand and retailer signatories accountable for safety conditions, including training and critical improvements, in the factories where their products are manufactured.

To date, 77 renowned fashion companies, including industry leaders such as H&M Group, Fast Retailing (the parent company of Uniqlo), Hugo Boss, Mango, PVH Corp. (the parent company of Calvin Klein), Inditex (the parent company of Zara), and, most recently, Gap Inc., have thrown their support behind the Pakistan Accord. This groundbreaking agreement, launched on January 16 for an initial three-year term, extends its coverage to include not only ready-made garment facilities but also textile mills.

12 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

News & Views Boohoo's decision to join the Pakistan Accord underscores the company's dedication to promoting safer working conditions and driving positive change within the textile industry. A company spokesperson stressed the ongoing significance of Pakistan in Boohoo's expansion strategy, citing the positive social and economic impacts already witnessed through the company's participation in the International Accord in Bangladesh. Boohoo is enthusiastic about extending these benefits to Pakistan and furthering its commitment to social responsibility.

Chief Minister Punjab has appealed to cotton farmers not to offload their raw cotton at lower prices.

In a significant development, Caretaker Punjab Chief Minister, Mohsin Naqvi, held a pivotal meeting with Prime Minister Kakar to address the pressing cotton issue. During their discussion, Chief Minister Naqvi stressed the importance of cotton farmers standing resolute and not selling their crops below the intervention price, as cotton prices in

the province had taken a significant dip below the officially designated support price.

In a high-level meeting convened at the Prime Minister's Office, Punjab and Sindh Chief Ministers were present. The meeting served as a platform for comprehensive deliberations on various regional matters.

Furthermore, Caretaker Chief Minister Naqvi revealed that they had urged the federal government to promptly instruct the Trading Corporation of Pakistan (TCP) to commence the purchase of cotton from the market to help stabilize its prices. He reiterated his call to cotton growers, urging them not to undersell their produce below the officially declared intervention price.

Naqvi pointed out that, during a meeting with Prime Minister Kakar, both he and the Caretaker Chief Minister of Sindh, Maqbool Baqir, highlighted the concerning situation where the price of raw cotton (Phutti) in Punjab had declined to Rs6,500 per 40kg, a substantial drop from the federal government's promised rate of Rs8,500 at the beginning of the sowing season.

The caretaker government is firmly advocating for the strict enforcement of the previously established cotton support prices. Prime Minister Kakar promptly responded by ordering action against those exploiting the situation and purchasing Phutti at rates below the predetermined benchmark of Rs8,500 per 40kg.

Naqvi further conveyed that the Prime Minister had taken immediate notice of the situation and has requested a report from the Trading Corporation of Pakistan. There is a strong expectation that the TCP will commence the purchase of cotton, and as a result, cotton rates are expected to rebound, ensuring that farmers receive fair compensation for their hard work.

In light of these developments, Chief Minister Punjab has appealed to cotton farmers not to offload their raw cotton at lower prices. Both Punjab and Sindh governments are actively working to ensure that growers receive the promised rate of Rs8,500 per 40kg. Chief Minister Naqvi emphasized that farmers should hold onto their produce to prevent further depreciation in cotton prices. He assured the farming community that the government stands firmly by their side and will continue to provide support.

Around the World BANGLADESH Bangladesh's Home Textile Exports Experience a Sharp Decline in Q1 2023 According to the reports of Export Promotion Bureau, Bangladesh's home textile exports have plummeted by a substantial 46.39 % year on year, reaching US $189.5 in the first fiscal quarter ending September 2023.

The home textiles industry had witnessed an impressive surge in the preceding years. In fiscal 2021, overseas shipments of home textiles had soared to an impressive $1.13 billion, a figure that further escalated to a remarkable $1.62 billion in fiscal 2022. However, the unforeseen challenges posed by the Russian-Ukraine war and reduced consumer spending in developed economies have taken their toll on the industry, leading to a substantial decline in home textile exports to $1.09 billion in fiscal 2023.

Unfortunately, the slowdown in home textile exports has persisted into the first quarter of the current fiscal year, underscoring the industry's continued struggle.

Interestingly, the realm of export dynamics has witnessed a shifting landscape. Home textiles, which had taken a backseat in previous years, emerged as the second-largest export category in fiscal 2022, outpacing leather and jute, which had held the second and third positions. Garments retained their stronghold as the top export category during this period.

Experts, as cited by various media reports, have attributed this unexpected downturn to the daunting increase in manufacturing costs and the erratic supply of electricity and energy. The industry now faces a challenging road ahead as it navigates these turbulent waters, striving to regain its lost momentum and global appeal.

CAMBODIA Cambodian garment exports have witnessed a significant decline during the period of January and September In the first nine months of the year 2023, Cambodian exports have declined by 17.43 %, settling at a total of US $5.92 billion, marking a notable decline from the previous year's $7.17 billion during the same period.

Within this scenario, knitted garments took center stage, contributing $4.14 billion to the exports between January and September 2023. However, this segment saw an 18.9 % dip compared to the same period in 2022 when it stood at a robust $5.11 billion.

On the other hand, woven clothing exports accounted for $1.78 billion in the same timeframe, reflecting a 13.6 % decrease compared to the previous year's $2.06 billion, according to data from the Customs and Excise department.

Amid this economic landscape, industry experts express concerns about the sustainability of this trend. They caution that if the decline persists, it could lead to the unfortunate consequence of more clothing factories shutting down, exacerbating the job losses within the sector.

CHINA China's Textile and Apparel Exports Witness a Substantial Decline in 2023 Between January and September 2023, China's textile and apparel exports experienced a notable downturn, falling by 9.49 % to a total of US $223.14 billion. This decline is in stark contrast to the impressive figures of $246.55 billion recorded during the same period in 2022.

Detailed data from China Customs provides a comprehensive insight into the industry's performance during this period.

Textile shipments, for instance, dwindled

14 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

to $101.92 billion, marking a significant 10.30 % decrease when compared to exports from January to September 2022. Likewise, exports of garments and clothing accessories amounted to $121.22 billion during the first nine months of the current year, reflecting an 8.80 % drop from the $132.88 billion reported for the same period in the previous year.

This continuous decline faced by China's textile and apparel exports underscores the challenges faced by the industry, as it grapples with evolving global dynamics and economic fluctuations. The road ahead will undoubtedly demand resilient strategies and adaptability to regain lost ground in the international market.

INDIA India’s Textile and Garments exports have faced noticeable decline of 15.36 % year-on-year basis The journey of Indian textile and garment exports in the eight months leading up to September 30, 2023, has been marked by a significant twist. During this period, exports declined by 8.81 %, totalling US $16.79 billion, in contrast to the robust $18.42 billion from the previous fiscal year's same timeframe.

A closer look at the data unveils the underlying dynamics within the industry. Textile product shipments, a vital segment of India's textile and clothing exports, saw a decrease to $9.83 billion in the first half of fiscal 2024, marking a fall of 3.59 % when compared to the first half of the preceding fiscal.

However, it's worth noting that the garment sector experienced a more pronounced decline, with a staggering 15.36 % year-on-year drop, resulting in earnings of $6.91 billion for the period spanning April to September 2023.

JAPAN Japanese Textile and Garment Imports grew by 16.4 % on month-on-month basis Japanese textile and garment import volume reached an impressive eight-month high in the month of August, showcasing a remarkable 16.4 % monthon-month growth. However, when compared to the same period in the previous year, these imports faced a 13.7 % decline, settling at a total of 231,600 tons.

A deeper dive into the data reveals some compelling trends. Notably, textile and apparel imports from China, a major contributor to Japan's textile landscape, amounted to 128,000 tons in August. This represented a 9.4 % decrease from the figures of the

Around the World year-ago period. However, a striking resurgence was witnessed, with a substantial 25.8 % increase over the previous month.

Focusing on the specifics, garment imports from China reached 102,000 tons, marking a significant 44 % growth over July. This particular surge in garment imports emphasizes a noteworthy trend within the broader Japanese textile and apparel market.

Meanwhile, textile imports from China amounted to 62,000 tons in August, signifying a 12 % decline when contrasted with the figures from August 2022. Nonetheless, this segment also experienced a remarkable increase of 60 % in terms of month-on-month growth.

THAILAND Thailand’s Garment sector to distribute 10,000 Baht (275 USD) in hope of reshaping Thailand's economic landscape.

In a strategic move, the Thai Garment Industry Association has extended an enthusiastic embrace to the government's decision to disburse a generous Baht 10,000 in digital currency to the citizens, viewing it as a dynamic force to reshape Thailand's economic landscape.

Yosthon Kitkuson, President of the association, is unwavering in his belief that providing every citizen with Baht 10,000 in digital currency is a masterstroke, poised to rekindle domestic

purchasing power. This visionary initiative holds the promise of reinvigorating retail sales, especially in the apparel sector, and breathing life back into an industry that has grappled with job cuts amidst lackluster sales, both at home and abroad.

Kitkuson underlined that the association is steadfast in its commitment to impart financial wisdom to citizens, ensuring that the financial windfall translates into tangible contributions to the nation's economic resurgence.

In a bold call to action, Kitkuson also urged the government to explore fresh pathways for free trade agreements with various countries, presenting promising opportunities to expand exports and fortify Thailand's position on the global economic stage.

Peeraphon Tatiyamaneekul, Vice President of the association, lent his resounding support to the Prime Minister's diplomatic endeavors.

He highlighted the potential of these trade negotiations, conducted on behalf of the nation, to infuse vitality into various industrial sectors within Thailand, fortifying the country's economic vigor.

Tatiyamaneekul emphasized, "Should the Prime Minister successfully seal trade cooperation pacts with the European Union, the Middle East, South America, and other nations, the ripple effect on the nation's economy will be palpable."

Niphon Chawalitmontian, Director General of the trade body, voiced the need for the government's active role in fostering increased garment exports through Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) between Thailand and the European Union.

He underlined a critical point – Thailand faces an uneven playing field compared to competitors who enjoy the privilege of exporting garments duty-free to the EU, while Thai garment exporters grapple with the burden of customs duties.

With over 200 members primarily engaged in garment production for export, in conjunction with the textile sector, the association is a significant pillar of Thailand's economy, generating a staggering Baht 200,000 billion annually and providing meaningful employment for millions of workers.

16 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

USA USA's Apparel Imports Decline in 2023 According to the latest data from the Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA), USA, the nation's apparel imports have faced a significant decline throughout the first eight months of 2023. These imports have undergone a significant transformation within the United States, revealing a noteworthy 22.77 % year-on-year decline, resulting in a total value of US $53.45 billion.

Diving deeper into the numbers, the volume dimension tells a particularly intriguing tale. It unveils a substantial 26.80 % decrease, equating to 16.49 billion Square Meter Equivalent (SME) between January and August 2023. This figure contrasts starkly with the 22.53 billion SME reported for the same period in 2022.

Within this complex story, the imports of garments from China, the largest source of clothing for the United States, have experienced a notable dip of 29.47 % from the previous year, with a total value of $10.98 billion.

Similarly, clothing imports from Vietnam, the secondlargest source, have charted a path of negative growth, witnessing a 24.57 % decline, culminating in a value of $9.65 billion during the review period. This figure is a significant drop compared to the $12.80 billion recorded in the first eight months of the previous year.

VIETNAM Vietnam's textile and garment exports down by 13.6 % compared to the previous year Vietnam's textile and garment exports have had a roller-coaster ride this year. In the first nine months, they amounted to US $25.09 billion, down 13.6 % compared to the previous year. September told a different story, with exports at $2.56 billion, down 5.77 % from the same month last year and a significant 25.55 % less than August 2023.

This September dip came after four consecutive months of export growth. Yarn exports in September were a shining light, reaching 153.8 kilo tons by volume, up 11.73 % compared to the previous month and a solid 32.64 % higher than September 2022.

Yarn imports reached 89.2 kilo tons in September, up 5.46 % from the previous month and 19.29 % higher than September 2022. Fabric imports in the same month amounted to $1.1 billion, growing 1.47 % from the previous month and 2.62 % from the previous year.

Vietnam's textile and garment industry continues to face twists and turns, requiring adaptability in the everchanging global market. 

Corporate News

The machine customers have been waiting for…

The new Cavimelt Pro embodies bi-functional coating with quick and easy switching The Cavitec high-performance portfolio of coating, laminating and impregnating solutions is now extended with the launch of a two-in-one machine featuring rapid switching between rotogravure and full-surface coating. Its technological superiority of the new Cavimelt Pro – based on hotmelt adhesive application – delivers bonding performance which meets the highest expectations for quality and sustainability.

The task is easy to describe: two layers are bonded together to create a laminate. Yet the process itself draws on pure science underpinned by detailed knowledge of materials, adhesives, technology and machines. That’s how to achieve the best results for demanding customers manufacturing the endproduct.

Cavitec a brand of Santex Rimar Group is the world leader in coating, laminating and impregnating dedicated to

18 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

identifying and meeting the critical requirements of companies in this sector: “We have engaged in countless discussions with customers and potential customers over several years, combining the insights gained with our own experience to design exactly the machines that customers want,” says Stephane Fernandez, Head of Sales and Lab (Hotmelt Division) at Cavitec.

Cavimelt Pro is the new bi-functional hotmelt laminating machine which enables switching between rotogravure and full-surface coating quickly and easily, thanks to new technology.

Quick-change head Cavimelt Pro offers a carefully thought-through solution, down to the last detail. In the priming position, the dosing roller is open and the tool holding device is pivoted down. This allows the doctor blade holder and the side dams to be changed, to switch the coating. Using

side dams for roll coating means this process can be started immediately. The gravure roller is easily exchangeable with a smooth transfer roller.

The quick-change application head combines gravure and full-surface coating in one single system. With this, it is possible to change in a few seconds from one coating method to the other, without the use of tools.

Innovative details are the dosing roller driven by an individual motor for smooth operation and the special positioning of the doctor blade, which avoids the risk of leaking, even with extremely low viscosity values. A big advantage is the highprecision wedge gap control between dosing and gravure/application roll to increase or decrease the coating weight steplessly.

The hot solution Cavimelt Pro is based on hotmelt technology. Hotmelt adhesives commonly

Corporate News used in textiles are one-component solvent-free thermoplastic polymers (nonreactive) or thermoset pre-polymers (reactive) heated to melting point before application. Hotmelts are applied in a hot plasticized state onto a substrate material such as wovens, knits, nonwovens, foams, membranes, films, nets, silicon paper etc. With this process, substrates are not subject to any deteriorating thermal stress.

In some applications, the material is coated only to change the surface composition, but more often the purpose is to bond or glue two layers of material together to build a composite material.

Cavimelt Pro is the two-in-one solution covering the most important application range, and offering users the opportunity to extend their customer base.

Flexibility, quality and sustainability Full-surface coating is established in mattress ticking and grinding paper production. Applications for rotogravure cover breathable active wear, protective wear and also lingerie, upholstery and automotive seats and interiors, hygiene and medical products, technical

composites and materials for roof underlay etc. Cavimelt Pro was also designed for sensitive materials and innovative applications. It offers flexibility from using membranes of 5 micrometers (one tenth of the diameter of a single human hair) and foam of 20 millimeters of thickness.

The multi-roller coating machine masters each single process perfectly due to precise mechanical control of factors like tension (vital for filmy materials) and even pressure on the full width of the roll.

Applying a correctly-defined temperature is essential for reliable adjustments and constant spread on the roll surface.

Empowering users to achieve unmatched coating results and meeting high sustainability standards make Cavimelt Pro ultimately the machine that customers really want. Its hotmelt technology is an environmentally-friendly process, free of solvents and water.

Furthermore, as no drying or sintering is necessary Cavimelt Pro also scores in energy-saving aspects. “Cavimelt Pro unites the full set of advantages which can drive success in the finishing business,” says Fernandez.

Corporate News

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol welcomes largest French Fashion brand Kiabi as member The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol (“Trust Protocol”) is pleased to announce the membership of Kiabi. Founded in 1978 in Northern France and with 579 shops in 25 countries, Kiabi is committed to sustainable sourcing and driving positive social and environmental change in fashion retail.

Kiabi’s “2030 Vision” aims to integrate positive fashion and sustainability with 72% of its products already designed using sustainable fibers and a goal to see this figure reach 100% by 2025 thus reducing energy and water usage while limiting pollution and habitat degradation in the supply chain.

Cotton already represents 70% of the raw material used in Kiabi’s products. By utilizing the program’s proprietary Protocol Consumption Management Solution (PCMS) to track U.S. Cotton and/or Protocol Cotton, they will be provided full supply chain transparency.

Kiabi will also have the ability to use Protocol Consumption Units (PCCUs) for internal calculations of Scope 3 emissions

20 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

or making proportionate environmental claims on products.

The Trust Protocol is the only sustainable cotton system that provides quantifiable, verifiable goals and measurement and drives continuous improvement in six key sustainability metrics – land use, soil carbon, water management, soil loss, greenhouse gas emissions, and energy efficiency. It is also the first to offer article-level supply chain transparency to members.

“As we strive to meet our ambitious goals and look more closely at our suppliers and their processes,” said Virginie Cayzeele, raw materials leader at Kiabi. “We need to be able to measure continuous improvement across our sustainability metrics confidently and accurately as part of our analysis of our scope 1, 2, and 3 carbon emissions and biodiversity risks. The Trust Protocol’s blockchain-enabled value chain transparency solution will ensure rigorous and verifiable evidence in our work for the protection and preservation of our planet.”

“We're pleased to welcome Kiabi to the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol and supporting their commitment to sustainable cotton sourcing. We look forward to providing them with measurable, verifiable data and outcomes as they pursue their environmental and social goals,” said Dr. Gary Adams, President of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.

The Trust Protocol is aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals, recognized by Textile Exchange and Forum for the Future, and part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Cotton 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge, Cotton 2040, and Cotton Up initiatives. It has also been published in the International Trade Centre Standards Map, recognized as a standard for sustainable cotton by the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, approved as a standard for sustainable cotton by German Federal Government, and confirmed as an ISEAL Community Member.

Corporate News

Uster Quantum 4.0 featuring Smart Duo technology

Clear success – it takes two signals Smart Duo yarn clearing applies innovative technology for practical results Uster Quantum 4.0 presents the unique combination of both capacitive and optical sensors in one. It’s the best of both worlds, for spinners. Two years after market introduction, industry feedback underlines the benefits of Uster’s new cross clearing and density detection functions.

Making a choice between the two main technologies for yarn clearing is now a thing of the past. That’s because Uster’s latest Quantum 4.0 clearers offer both capacitive and optical sensors in a concept called Smart Duo. This innovation recognizes that each sensor option has its own special functionality – so using both together brings significant advantages in quality and profitability for spinners.

Cross clearing The Smart Duo approach uses ‘cross clearing’, in which both capacitive and optical sensors are applied. The capacitive signal reacts on very compact yarn faults.

It offers guaranteed detection of dense thick places in the yarn, containing more fibers, as a significant mass increase. The optical sensor records a minor diameter increase in such cases. Instead it is better at detecting voluminous, visually large occurrences in the yarn, where the capacitive sensor would record only a minor increase in mass.

For maximum benefit in detecting compact and fluffy events, both signals are added in series. The cross-clearing function uses the backup of a second clearing limit after the basic clearing

The cross clearing concept

22 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

parameters. For example, a thick place which might not be identified as a fault under the capacitive clearing limits, would be rechecked under the extra optical clearing settings.

This allows the clearer to detect thick and fluffy events that are not detected by the capacitive sensor alone. Cross clearing events, designated X, are also useful to indicate spinning conditions for housekeeping and maintenance purposes, such as fiber accumulation on roving creels or in the drafting zone.

No compromises for better fabric quality In a practical example, the benefit of cross clearing was proven by a spinner in India producing 100% combed cotton yarn (Ne 30) for knitted fabrics. The goal

Corporate News was to improve fabric quality by reducing the remaining thick places, while maintaining the same level of clearer cuts.

To ensure an independent assessment of the fabric samples, an Indian textile institute was engaged for the inspection and comparison.

For the tests, the cross clearing setting was kept at 'medium' and the NSL setting was opened slightly to compensate for the additional X-cuts. Finally, both articles were cleared with 92.6 cuts/100 km for the NSL T including the X-cuts and 92.5 cuts/100 km for the NSL T without cross clearing activated. The cross clearing function demonstrated improved fabric quality without the need for additional cuts. The Uster Smart Duo was able to ensure better quality without increased production costs.

Density detection Density measurement is unique in the market, as a highlight feature introduced by the Smart Duo function of the Quantum 4.0 clearer. Density involves two separate measurements: the density channel (D) is active after the splice over a defined reference length; in addition to this temporary density measurement, a continuous density (CD) measurement takes place.

Different densities can be caused by different twist levels in the yarn. Other factors could be a mixture of compact and non-compact yarn or irregularities in compacting levels, while different yarn types and materials also have different densities. The density measurement function also prevents yarn issues caused by malfunctioning of the compacting device.

Saving a ton of yarn In another practical example, a customer in China discovered that one of its ring spinning machines was producing high twist yarn. Some high twist yarns were mixed with regular yarns on the winding machine, with the result that 1.21 tons of yarn was contaminated and rendered unusable.

It is impossible to differentiate between yarns of different twist levels by eyesight at the ring frame stage. And until the launch of Uster Quantum 4.0

Compact yarns, Ne 30 magnified x150; sample of standard twist level (left) and sample of high twist level (right); different twist levels are impossible to distinguish by eyesight.

there was no way to separate yarn with different twists at the winding stage.

Thanks to the density detection function, the spinner saved 1.08 tons of yarn that would otherwise have been waste. By installing the new generation of Uster yarn clearers the mill was able to rewind the yarn to separate the high twist element.

Innovated for the major challenges Quantum 4.0 is the efficient yarn quality assurance system with Smart

Clearing Technology for both standard and special applications. The accepted standards of Yarn Body, Dense area and Smart limits are further enhanced by the new Smart Duo technology. Numerous easy-to-use functions cover basic clearing, Smart Duo clearing – including cross clearing and density detection – as well as contamination clearing and special applications. Uster’s latest yarn clearing innovations provide maximum flexibility, security and prevention for today's market challenges in spinning mills. 

23

Corporate News

SETEX and Navis TubeTex have teamed up to improve textile dyeing and finishing with their integrated solutions As the new SETEX agent in Canada, Honduras and the United States, Navis TubeTex can offer textile manufacturers comprehensive, integrated solutions to enhance efficiency, streamline dyeing and finishing processes, and ensure accurate, consistent quality, resulting in sustainable cost savings.

“The combination of SETEX’s advanced automation technology and Navis TubeTex’s industry expertise will drive efficiency and excellence in textile processing ” said Oliver Schermuly, owner of SETEX. “With SETEX´s manufacturing operations management software and controls for textile machinery, we have the opportunity to offer a proven combination of smart applications, systems and components, empower customers with enhanced efficiency, quality, cost savings, data insights, sustainability, and a competitive edge in textile manufacturing. SETEX’s camera measurement technology complements our integrated workflow seamlessly” said Will Motchar, President and CEO of Navis TubeTex.

24 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

About SETEX SETEX helps machine builders and textile finishers to realize production efficiently and sustainably.

innovation. With R&D facilities in Germany and representatives in 65 countries, we are a full-service provider for consulting, sales, upgrading and modernization, remote and on-site service.

About Navis TubeTex

Will Motchar, President and CEO of Navis TubeTex.

As a one-stop supplier of manufacturing operations management software and controls for textile machinery, SETEX offers a unique combination of smart applications and IIoT technology for sustainable production efficiency.

The product portfolio is rounded off by a range of sensors and camera measurement technology that are perfectly matched to the integrated workflow.

Being family-owned and operated, SETEX stands for long-life quality, longterm availability and sustainable

Founded in 1929, Navis TubeTex is a leader in finishing machinery for the global textile industry. Based in Lexington, North Carolina, Navis TubeTex designs, engineers and manufactures the world’s leading machinery for the global knit, woven, nonwoven, technical and geotextile industries.

Navis TubeTex has trained sales and service centers around the world to offer dedicated machinery solutions with exceptional services to meet your company’s production and processing needs. Our team of expert engineers and sales associates work with you on a solution that fits your economic budget and ecologic environment to ensure a successful implementation of the latest technology. 

Santoni Shanghai Acquires a Leading German Knitting Machinery maker Terrot in move to create a new ecosystem The partnership is part of wider efforts to build a new global circular knitting machine industry leader.

Santoni Shanghai Knitting Machinery Co., Ltd., founded and wholly owned by Italy’s Lonati family, today announced the strategic acquisition of Terrot GmbH, a leading manufacturer of circular knitting machines based in Chemnitz, Germany. The move comes as the latest development in Santoni Shanghai’s long-term vision to build an ecosystem that aims to reshape and consolidate the circular knitting industry. The transaction will be finalized pending approval from Chinese regulatory authorities.

will bring an immediate and extraordinary boost to our products portfolio,” said Gianpietro Belotti, CEO of Santoni Shanghai. “Terrot’s incredible technical capabilities, extensive product range and vast experience in serving customers all over the world will enable us to better achieve our shared aspirations. We are very excited about this partnership and look forward to working with Terrot as we move towards establishing a pioneering industry ecosystem, realizing our mission to providing customers with an utterly new knitting experience.”

The global circular knitting machine market is expected to see significant growth in the coming years, with a July 2023 report from Consegic Business Intelligence forecasting a 5.7% CAGR from 2023 to 2030, propelled by an increasing consumer preference for breathable and comfortable knitted fabrics as well as increasingly diversification of demand for knitted apparel. To seize this market opportunity, Santoni Shanghai has developed an ambitious strategic plan centered around innovation, sustainability and digitalization. The new partnership with Terrot aims to further this strategy by enhancing Santoni’s integrated and scaled-up ecosystem, while also driving the sustainable development of the global knitting machinery industry.

“We see our machines not simply as isolated units of production, but rather as parts of a holistic and integrated ecosystem,” Mr. Gianpietro Belotti added. “Each part of this ecosystem is interconnected with the entire industry chain, bolstered by our recent advances in digitalization and our century long expertise. The new synthesis will offer now the largest range of technical solutions available in the market, which we believe will enable us to satisfy the needs of all the investment levels.

Through our partnership with Terrot, we are one step closer to fulling our vision of innovatively consolidating the entire industry.”

“The integration of Terrot, which also includes the well-known Pilotelli brand,

26 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

“With the strategic investment of Santoni, we aim to strengthen our position as the preferred solution provider to many of the world’s leading textile manufacturers and top brands as well as

continue working with industry talents as we provide valuable and essential knowhow to drive premium ‘Made in Germany’ textile machinery.” said Robert Czajkowski, Managing Director of Terrot GmbH. "We have found a strong, globally active partner with clear dedication to quality, performance and excellent expertise in all circular knitting segments, who understands the unique value proposition and potentials of our portfolio and with whom we can realize our growth objectives” he added.

Terrot GmbH Co-Managing Director Dirk Lange expressed his similar conviction that Santoni was the perfect partner for Terrot’s ambitions. “Having defined our strategic growth targets, we are now embarking on the next exciting chapter in our long and successful history, one that includes a 160-year tradition of textile machinery manufacturing.” Lange said.

By creating synergies and integrating capabilities in production, sourcing, innovative technologies, sustainability, software and digitization, both parties are confident that future joint projects will present numerous opportunities to serve all of major textile manufacturing centers like China, ASEAN countries, South and Central Asia, Mediterranean Countries and the Americas by unlocking exceptional value for all global textile and apparel players.

GtA and Monforts welcome the return of global exhibitions The ITMA textile machinery exhibition which took place in Milan this June was conclusive proof that the appetite for international, face-to-face events is now back and bigger than ever before.

This is great news for both textile finishing technology specialist Monforts and one of its major customers, GtA. Despite significant ongoing obstacles to global travel, ITMA 2023 somehow managed to overshadow the previous ITMA held in Barcelona exactly four years before it in 2019, attracting over 111,000 visitors to Milan in Italy over its sevenday run.

Turbulence The four years separating the two ITMA events have, of course, being somewhat turbulent, largely due to the Covid-19 pandemic, so the success of ITMA 2023 was very much to the satisfaction of Monforts, which reported hundreds of visitors to its stand over the course of the seven-day show.

“We couldn’t believe how busy ITMA in Milan was,” said Monforts marketing manager Nicole Croonenbroek. “The enthusiasm took us completely by surprise and we’re now following up on so many potential projects that were discussed there.”

For GtA, which specialises in technical textiles for the digital printing market, events such as ITMA 2023 opening up again are even more of a boost.

“Around 70% of our business is

28 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

related to trade fairs or major public events such as sports, music and theatre performances, so we are extremely pleased to see the world of large-scale international shows opening up again,” explained GtA Managing Director Andreas Niess. “During the pandemic we had to go on short-time work for six months, but overall we survived well and have continued to develop new products and also meet new requirements for our highly specialised textiles.”

Fault-free substrates Before the pandemic, a new standard in pure white, 100% clean and fault-free textile substrates was already being demanded to meet the rapid growth in digitally-printed banners and hoardings – often referred to as ‘soft signage’ – that

are extensively used for advertising at exhibitions and public events.

In response to this demand, GtA (Gesellschaft für textile Ausrüstung) was formed in 2016 and erected a purposebuilt plant on a greenfield site in Neresheim, Germany with the aim to invest into a sustainable and environmental protective production site.

The plant was first equipped with a fully-automated 72 metres long installation comprising a washing machine integrated with a 3.6 metre wide, seven-chamber Monforts Montex stenter, purpose-built at Montex GmbH in Austria Building on the success of this installation, the company has subsequently installed two more Montex lines – both with an expanded working

Corporate News width of 5.6 metres – along with a sixchamber unit for further washing processes and a five-chamber line for coating.

Smooth surfaces The substrates of choice for digital printing are 100% polyester warp knits which have extremely smooth surfaces.

This has become increasingly critical due to the general move away from PVC coatings which were standard in the past.

In addition, the GtA substrates are resilient and allow excellent take-up of inks and vibrant colours and clear and precise images to be achieved with digital printing techniques. The knitted construction also has the advantage of elasticity, which is a plus in terms of flexibility for installers.

GtA now finishes rolls in sizes of between 1,500 and 2,000 metres directly on the Monforts stenters, and after final inspection converts them into rolls with lengths of 75, 100, 150 and or 200 metres, all fully labelled and packed.

Quality “Happily, we are now back to running 24 hours a day to meet unprecedented demand from the digital printing market, and we are planning further investments in Monforts technology,” said Niess.

“Our top priority is always quality, followed by achieving energy savings, and we will continue to be at the forefront when it comes to new technologies, equipment variants and procedures. In addition, the requirements for our wide width materials are increasing.”

date. I have to say that the Monforts after-service has been absolutely perfect and there has been no shortage of quality, expertise and service on which we have drawn.”

As far as energy savings are concerned, the company employs various heat recovery systems for its hot waste water, with process exhaust and burner exhaust air integrated in an overall heat exchanger and accumulation system.

Going further, GtA is aiming to become Germany’s first climate neutral textile plant by 2025, via a planned combination of wind turbines, PV systems and hydrogen heating – the latter an area that Monforts is currently investigating with partners in the three-year WasserSTOFF project, launched in November 2022 with sponsorship from

Germany’s government.

“Everybody knows that textile finishing is a high energy consuming process,” says Monforts Managing Director Gunnar Meyer. ”To make this process more efficient, Monforts already offers several solutions, but as a technology leader we are also rising to the challenge of exploring alternative heating options to be ready for the future. The experience and know-how of our valued customers such as GtA will greatly accelerate the new journey we are on.”

Meanwhile, Monforts is looking forward to meeting customers again at two further major exhibitions in 2023 – at Techtextil India in Mumbai from September 12-14 and at ITMA Asia + CITME from November 19-23.

As the width of a fabric increases, he explains, its movement through the stenters, both in width and especially in length, becomes more difficult as there is inevitably more longitudinal tension put on the textile.

“It is a big challenge to achieve the desired diagonal and arch distortion as well as the stretch/elasticity, and any crooked stitch on the textile can be seen later after printing, so has to be avoided at all costs,” Niess explained. “We are currently investigating the preliminary stages of warp knitting in order to further influence fabric construction and potential additions to the Monforts finishing lines based on our experience to

29

Successful in Pakistan thanks to our partners service traders and Tekstil Corporation We are thrilled to announce that our sales and service operations in Pakistan are successfully supported in the future, thanks to the unwavering support of our esteemed partners - Service Traders and Tekstil Corporation. We take pride in highlighting the exceptional service capabilities offered by Service Traders, which includes comprehensive repair services for all generations of clearers, top-notch spare parts provision as well as field service assistance coupled with technical consulting expertise.

providing exceptional service has become a key differentiator for our clients and users. Service Traders managed to build and maintain strong relations with Loepfe users by offering effective and efficient services at any time. There is guaranteed availability of spare parts in the country and reliable technical support for all clearer generations. The skilled and experienced team guarantees service support from the moment of installation throughout the entire lifespan of the products.

The Loepfe setup continues with the sales agency of Tekstil Corporation and the partnership with Service Trader for after-sales services. Our heartfelt gratitude goes out to Mr. Kanjee (Service Traders) and Mr. Sheik Mansour (Tekstil Corporation), whose invaluable contributions played an instrumental role in making this setup a success.

We are currently in the process of handing over the responsibilities from Mr. Kanjee to the new CEO of Service Traders Mr. Amir Memon, as we prepare for Mr. Kanjee's much-deserved retirement. We want to express our heartfelt gratitude towards him for the unwavering dedication and hard work he has put into serving our customers and partners over the years.

Exceptional client support and service Loepfe understands the competitive business landscape in Pakistan and

30 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

As he embarks on a new chapter in life, we wish him nothing but success and happiness.

Introducing Mr. Amir Memon As an experienced electronics engineer with over two decades of sales and service experience in the dynamic textile sector, Mr. Memon has had the opportunity to collaborate with leading multi-national enterprises and build strong relationships with key customers, partners, cohesive teams, and stakeholders.

His technical skills and profound expertise in the domain of electronics, automation, and controls have allowed him to provide innovative solutions to complex problems faced by the textile industry. Mr. Memon’s excellent problemsolving and analytical skills have enabled him to identify and address issues promptly, ensuring smooth operations and high-quality output. As a seasoned professional in the textile industry, Loepfe is confident that with his expertise, skills, and passion Mr. Memon will make a significant contribution to the organization.

Corporate News New CEO of Service Traders, Mr. Amir Memon: “I am honored to assume the position of CEO at this remarkable company. As I step into this role, I am eager to share my vision and commitment to driving our organization forward. First and foremost, my utmost gratitude goes to my predecessor, whose leadership and dedication set a strong foundation for our company's success.

With a steadfast focus on collaboration and customer-centricity, my aim is to propel our company to new heights. I look forward to working alongside Loepfe to achieve shared success.”

Former CEO of Service Traders, Mr. Kanjee: “After many years of unwavering commitment and dedicated service, I am announcing my retirement as CEO of Service Traders. It has been a privilege and honor to lead such a talented and passionate group of individuals and to serve, discuss and achieve the best with our valued customers.

I am thankful to Loepfe Brothers Ltd, the invaluable partner. Unwavering support and collaboration from Loepfe have played a pivotal role in my

achievements. I am truly grateful for the strong bond we have formed.

Mastering the challenging environment Operating in a challenging environment, Pakistani spinning mills face numerous obstacles. The harsh climatic conditions of high temperatures and humidity create difficulties in producing consistent yarn quality. Moreover, the raw materials processed by the mills are often contaminated which adds to their woes.

Despite such challenges, Pakistani spinning mills have managed to stay competitive on an international level through their flexibility. They produce a wide range of articles from coarse to fine yarns for weaving, knitting and denim production - all while keeping up with global market demands.

However, this adaptability comes at a cost as it requires extensive time and labor investment; yet they continue striving towards excellence despite adversities faced along the way.

To meet the diverse requirements of spinning mills, a clever quality control

system is essential. Fortunately, Pakistani spinning mills have found their solution in YarnMaster® PRISMA - an exceptional system that produces high-quality yarns across various counts and challenging environments while maintaining winding machine efficiency.

PRISMA handles contaminants with ease, and securely detects missing and offcenter cores, slub readers and much more, while providing a detailed overview of the yarn conditions. PRISMA's recent Autostart function has been a gamechanger for multiple article changes by reducing setting time by up to one hour for new articles! Likewise, the persons in charge can be sure that with PRISMA’s built-in intelligence, the winding process is set up for optimum performance. It provides a balance between yarn quality and machine efficiency. It also assists new operators and prevents the production of insufficient yarn quality due to incorrect settings.

By adopting PRISMA, Pakistani spinners have witnessed a decrease in yarn waste, splice cycles and energy consumption while enhancing the quality of their produced yarns.

31

Industry’s largest library of colors now fully integrated into Shima Seiki design system with Color Atlas by Archroma® Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, and Shima Seiki, a leading provider of computerized flat knitting machines and digital design systems, have expanded their partnership to bring the industry’s largest library of colors for cotton and polyester to the SDS®-ONE APEX design, planning and virtual sampling system and APEXFiz® (hereafter SDS®-ONE APEX series) subscription software.

Now offering a total of 5,760 color references, SDS-ONE APEX series has added all 1,440 colors for polyester from The Color Atlas by Archroma® to its color library of 4,320 Color Atlas colors for cotton poplin. The new polyester collection ranges from neutral earth tones to vibrant jewel tones and on-trend fluorescent colors, with shades suitable for sportswear, fashion, home furnishings, automotive textiles and more.

“Our SDS®-ONE APEX series users have embraced the accuracy and convenience of the Archroma Color Atlas for cotton coloration since 2020,” a representative from Shima Seiki said. “By expanding our collaboration with Archroma to polyester colors, we are further empowering our users with color inspiration and streamlined product development.”

The extended color library in SDS®ONE APEX series will help designers and manufacturers to visualize and evaluate

32 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

their design choices on realistic fabric simulations and then put them into production with dyes and finishes that meet their desired sustainability profile.

The Shima Seiki system also offers a smooth transition to machine programming for quick and accurate production, reduced waste and accelerated time to market.

Each of the 5,760 Color Atlas color references in the SDS®-ONE APEX series design software is available as a physical color standard that includes precise dyeing recipes and compliance data, as well as access to expert technical support from Archroma around the world.

“Polyester remains the most popular choice across many textile segments

where high performance is a must. Users of Shima Seiki’s advanced SDS®-ONE APEX series platform will now be able to select from the industry’s largest library of colors for both cotton and polyester and, more importantly, trust that their choice can be reliably executed,” Chris Hipps, Head of Strategic Business Development, Archroma Color Management, said.

“Our colors are formulated with dyes that comply with international ecostandards and work with Archroma’s groundbreaking coloration systems, like FAST SPORT,” he continued. ®

Trademarks of Archroma registered in many countries. © 2023 Archroma 

Features

Patented multi-zone setting pattern of HYPERTOP

HYPERTOP: The Future of Carding Up to 0.5% good fiber savings Graf is introducing HYPERTOP, a new flexible flat which will sustainably change the efficiency of carding. With its patented multi-zone setting pattern and optimized tooth geometry, HYPERTOP offers unparalleled good fiber savings of up to 0.5% while ensuring constant and optimal yarn IPI values.

Carding is often referred to as “the heart of spinning”. To optimize the efficiency of this crucial process, Graf developed a flexible flat which significantly improves good fiber savings by up to 0.5%. Hypertop demonstrates one of the fastest paybacks. It can be used for the processing of the whole range of short-staple fibres.

Unique design Hypertop features an innovative multi-zone setting pattern, a strong wire

34 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

and optimized tooth geometry (Fig. 1).

This new design offers the right balance between high force absorption and sufficient flexibility to limit fibre damages.

The change from straight gaps to a gapless pattern processes the fibres with growing intensity, further optimizing the good fibre savings to reach up to 0.5%. It also ensures optimal and gentle defibering resulting in fewer imperfections and a constant quality over an extended lifetime. Another advantage of this setting pattern is its tendency to facilitate removal of short fibres, waste and elimination of neps.

Remarkable performance Hamboya Tekstil in Turkey is one of the first customers to implement Hypertop on its carding machines. The new flat delivered on its promises and

beyond: the company witnessed a clear improvement of yarn values and good fibre savings of 0.32%.

Hypertop opens a new era in carding technology. With a payback period of less than one month, Hypertop is the best way to invest money for more efficiency and profitability.

“We can confirm that the new Hypertop flat from Graf is a very good development for us users. In addition to the payback at the end of the lifetime, we also notice a positive result concerning yarn values. The tests we have carried out have clearly shown this result. We would like to particularly emphasize the very good result regarding the saving of good fibres by 0.32%.”

Ender Dogaç, Mill Manager, Hamboya Teskti.

Features

3D Compacting Pushes the Limits of Yarn Strength COMPACTapron, the latest addition to the SUESSEN compacting family, sets a new benchmark for yarn tenacity with an additional 0.5 to 1 cN/tex compared to other compacting systems. By reducing conversion cost by 10%, COMPACTapron is the right system for competitive spinning mills.

COMPACTapron makes compact spinning more affordable.

It offers the right balance between high roductivity and low operational costs without compromising on quality. Most importantly, this latest compacting device reduces electricity costs.

The system is suitable for most machine types and common materials including blends from yarn counts Ne 20 to Ne 80.

Low conversion costs

distance between the nip lines of COMPACTapron is shorter than the shortest fiber so that fibers are smartly guided through the compacting zone, thus achieving better yarn strengths compared to competitors. The overall result is an additional 0.5 to 1 cN/tex, a yarn tenacity unmatched in the market.

Flexibility The improved raw material yield gives spinners more options to optimize cost so they can choose between twist reduction to enhance productivity, adjusting the raw material mix, or obtaining a higher selling price in downstream processes.

With less energy requirement, less maintenance, and fewer spare parts, COMPACTapron not only boosts yarn tenacity, it gives spinning mills a real competitive edge.

The design of COMPACTapron (Fig. 1) makes it a formidable asset to reduce the cost of conversion. It features only one big cot, resulting in 50% less maintenance time and almost no lapping. As COMPACTapron needs very few consumable parts, it has a very low spare parts cost per spindle per year. The optimized suction slot allows reduced air flow and power demand and thus contributes to 60% energy saving.

High yarn tenacity and excellent quality Yarn strength is crucial in determining the quality of the final spinning product.

Thanks to 3D technology, COMPACTapron transports fibers in the condensing zone over the suction slot in a distinctive distance to the mesh apron so that all fibers are entirely compacted. The

36 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

Figure 1: The innovative design of COMPACTapron significantly contributes to reducing the cost of conversion.

Features

Rieter is Raising the Bar with a New Generation of Draw Frames Rieter is introducing a new generation of draw frames to the market. The new machines enable spinning mills to achieve the highest quality, productivity, and efficiency, even when processing recycled fibers. Innovations ensure stable running behavior for all raw materials and production speeds. The high sliver quality is an ideal prerequisite for the production of high-quality yarns..

Reliability is key in the production of sliver. The new generation of draw frames is more robust than ever. This ensures stable operation at highest quality and productivity. With the new draw frames – consisting of the singlehead draw frames RSB-D 55 and SB-D 55 and the double-head draw frames RSB-D 27 and SB-D 27 –Rieter offers optimum solutions for a wide range of spinning mill needs.

Optimized for recycled fibers Processing recycled fibers poses challenges like increased dust generation and a high short-fiber content. The new Rieter draw frames offer enhanced suction for cleanliness, even in the calender area, resulting in longer cleaning cycles and fewer thick places. When recycled fibers are processed, four-fold doubling can be supportive. Here, an additional web nozzle improves web guiding and guarantees fault-free operation with a high short-fiber content.

Fig. 1: Innovations in the new draw frame generation improve user-friendliness.

These optimizations bring advantages in the production of ring yarns with a high recycled fiber content. Moreover, recycled fibers can now be selected as an application in the expert system SLIVERprofessional, providing recommended settings for the entire machine based on raw material data.

User-friendliness at a new level With an improved menu navigation and a convenient 10-inch display, operating Rieter draw frames is now even easier (Fig. 1). The SLIVERprofessional expert system provides suggestions for key setting parameters like coiler and can plate speed, as well as sliver spread before the drafting system. This allows quick material changeover and ensures excellent sliver and yarn quality.

New level of durability The new generation of draw frames ensures stable operation at the highest quality and productivity. Examples for this are new life-time lubricated top roller bearings and reinforced power creel rollers (Fig. 2). In addition, the drafting system has been improved thanks to a new force transmission which optimizes the load on the outlet cylinder.

Constant sliver quality An innovative optional solution on the autoleveler draw frames RSB-D 55/27 keeps the sliver strength constant while stopping and starting the draw frame. It prevents the creation of a short length of sliver with around 50% lower sliver strength. This was previously unavoidable and occurred on all draw frames. When processing combed cotton on the roving frame, this can lead to undesirable incorrect drafts.

Fewer sliver breaks

Fig. 2: Reinforced power creel for enhanced robustness

38 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

The autoleveler draw frames also offer a unique solution to avoid blockages in the coiler tube caused by temperature fluctuations or bulky materials. A singlemotordriven coiler eliminates sliver jams without interruptions. This reduces operational effort, prevents sliver breaks, and maintains high efficiency also in downstream processes.

Features

SSM: Thread King III – Revisiting a Classic The third generation of the renowned Thread King winder The new generation of the Thread King winder is living up to expectations. It offers the perfect combination of efficiency and sustainability, with a shorter production cycle, easier thread-up of the yarn, reduced machine footprint and lower power consumption.

The reputation of the Thread King is second to none. Over the years, it has continuously been loaded with advanced technology to always stay ahead of competition. This new generation, the Thread King III (TK3), is more efficient than ever with an increased supply tube capacity, a shorter doffing cycle of up to 40% and a raw material saving of about 1%. The machine is also IoT ready and can be equipped, as an option, with Nema, SSM digital suite.

Pushing sewing thread production beyond limits The Thread King III (Fig. 1) is all about efficiency. Thanks to a patented tuck-in system (Fig. 2), the TK3 has the shortest doffing cycle on the market, up

Fig.1: With unbeatable values, the Thread King III is one of the most efficient winders on the market.

to 40% shorter than its previous version.

It is the first in its category to feature an automatic slit-drum opening (Fig. 3). This

allows a quick thread-up of the yarn with one hand, easy maintenance and cleanup – all save a considerable amount of

Fig.2: The patented tuck-in system allows the doffing cycle to be reduced by up to 40% compared to the TK2.

40 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

time. The encapsulated locked winding heads provide full safety for operators.

In terms of sustainability, the TK3 certainly checks the box. The design of the TK3 has been optimized to reduce machine footprint. With speeds up to 15 000 rpm, the Thread King III offers a short production cycle: fewer machines are required for the same production capacity, resulting in less energy consumption, less waste, and thus more sustainability.

Cost saving drive The new winder benefits from improved length measuring accuracy. This ultra-precise capability results in 50% reduction of the safety margin on wound packages, thereby saving 1% raw material. To go even further, the Thread King III is equipped with SSM innovation preciforce, the first system to allow regulation of the backpressure force for a precise package build-up without any density or diameter deviation.

This third generation of Thread King also comes with the new lubetex high precision lubrication system. lubetex delivers the exact right quantity of lubricant needed – not less, not more – for a positive impact on the environment and costs.

From king spools to cones Like its predecessor, the TK3 is available in two versions: TK3-CT for cones handling and TK3-KT for king spools. Compared to the previous model, the supply tube capacity of the TK3 is doubled with the king spool version, and even quadrupled with the cone version, depending on tube size. Both machines offer the highest possible bobbin and yarn quality. Two other versions with different executions are planned.

With the Thread King III, SSM confirms its position of leader in the winding machine market. This state-ofthe-art machine improves customers’ profitability while delivering outstanding quality and contributing to significant cost savings.

Fig. 3: The automatic slit-drum opener, a unique feature of the TK3.

Features

Nature Coatings Appoints iTextiles® as Exclusive Distributor in Pakistan: Expanding Reach of Sustainable Solutions Nature Coatings, an award-winning biochemicals company transforming waste into bio-based, safe, and renewable solutions, has entered into a strategic partnership with iTextiles®, multidisciplinary leader in textile solutions. This collaboration marks a significant milestone in promoting sustainability and innovation within the textile industry.

Nature Coatings has gained recognition for its pioneering approach to creating green chemical products, and iTextiles® stands at the forefront of the textile value chain, dedicated to performance textiles.

Under this distribution agreement, iTextiles® will serve as the distributor for Nature Coatings' flagship product, BioBlack TX, and other product lines within the specified territory, which includes Pakistan and the UAE. With stocked inventory in Karachi and Dubai, this partnership ensures efficient product availability and delivery to the nearby areas.

BioBlack TX is a 100% bio-based, non-toxic, and carbon-negative black pigment dispersion. Notably, it boasts superior lightfastness (8/8 rating) with a distinctive blue undertone. Incorporating BioBlack TX in denim manufacturing contributes to decarbonization efforts and positions brands and manufacturers proactively ahead of industry regulations.

Furthermore, BioBlack TX distinguishes

itself by containing undetectable Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) carcinogens and less, eliminating health risks and surpassing industry standards and regulatory requirements.

Jane Palmer, CEO of Nature Coatings, expressed enthusiasm about the partnership, stating, "We are thrilled to join forces with iTextiles®, an organization that shares our commitment to sustainability and innovation. This collaboration represents a significant step forward in our mission to make the textile industry more eco-friendly."

Mujeeb Khan, CEO of iTextiles®, echoed this sentiment, stating, "iTextiles® is dedicated to pushing the boundaries of sustainability in textiles. Partnering with Nature Coatings allows us to provide our clients with cutting-edge, eco-conscious solutions that align with our vision for a greener future."

In addition to enhancing product availability, this partnership establishes a commercial avenue for increased product sales. Both Nature Coatings and iTextiles® anticipate a surge in demand for their environmentally responsible products as they work together to drive sustainability forward in the textile industry.

For sourcing contact: noman.abid@itextiles.com.pk, ali.javaid@itextiles.com.pk Website: www.itextiles.com.pk.

42 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Start with Baldwin and finish with perfection ITMA Asia 2023 Attendees to Discover Faster and More Sustainable Textile Finishing with Precision Spray TexCoat™ System Baldwin Technology Company Inc. will be educating the textile supply chain on how to “Start with Baldwin and Finish with Perfection” thanks to its TexCoat™ G4 precision spray finishing system at ITMA Asia 2023 (Stand H5C22, November 19-23, National Exhibition and Convention Center, Shanghai).

ITMA Asia participants can stop by and “touch” Baldwin’s wide array of TexCoat G4-applied fabric samples from textile mills around the world and experience what precision finishing “feels” like while learning how the technology eliminates chemistry waste on changeover, saves water, and achieves faster speeds through the stenter frame and relaxed dryer.

Baldwin’s team will be available to discuss how the company’s technology can meet the textile supply chain’s sustainability and carbon footprint goals while improving performance and saving money. In the context of a cost-sensitive global economy and an increased focus by brands, consumers and regulatory agencies on sustainability, customers are placing a premium on sustainabilityadvantage textile production.

“We saw enormous interest at ITMA 2023 in Milan–with more global textile finishers excited to put TexCoat to work,” said Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s VP Global Business Development, Textiles. “They can expect increased profitability, lower energy use, and reduced carbon footprint in addition to exercising precision control with our patented precision spray technology.”

TexCoat G4’s non-contact spray technology offers numerous advantages compared to outdated finishing-chemistry application methods. TexCoat G4 processes a wide range of low-viscosity water-based chemicals, such as durable water-repellents – including PFAS-free, softeners, anti-microbials, easy-care and

44 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

flame retardants. The company's technology uses the same chemicals as found in traditional pad baths with no special auxiliaries required.

Testimonial videos from Pincroft Dyeing and Print Works and Graniteville Specialty Fabrics along with a video highlighting Baldwin’s partnership with North Carolina State University will also be screened at Stand H5C22.

About Baldwin Technology Company Inc. Baldwin Technology Company Inc. is a leading global manufacturer and supplier of innovative process-automation equipment, parts, service and consumables for the printing, packaging,

textile, plastic film extrusion and corrugated industries. As a total solutions provider, Baldwin offers our customers a broad range of market-leading technologies, with a focus on improving the economic and environmental efficiency of production processes.

Through a global footprint of 21 company-owned locations and an extensive network of partners, our customers are supported globally, regionally and locally by dedicated sales and service team members who add value by forming long-term relationships.

Baldwin is privately owned by BW Forsyth Partners, a Barry-Wehmiller company, and part of BW Converting Solutions.

Eng. Tamer Fathi, Mr. Rossano Biancalani, Eng. Laila El Gammal, Mrs. Rossana Biancalani, Eng. Ehab Helal

Insight: Egypt textile industry A story of cooperation and trust with Biancalani agent in Egypt In this interview Biancalani agent in Egypt Mrs. Laila El Gammal shares with us her very optimistic view about the future of Egypt's textile industry and exports, and points out that the country's rich history of textile production is a major asset in the new era.

The textile industry in Egypt today is an important economic factor and has developed impressively in recent years.

Twelve percent of export earnings come from the textile industry.

Egypt hosts the largest and most productive cotton and textile clusters on the African continent, and in January 2023, Egypt ranked #4 among the developing countries at the world's biggest trade fair of textile industry, Heimtextil.

The Egyptian industry is now on its way to becoming a major player in the global textile market. Driven by a focus on new markets, new products, and innovation, Egyptian textile companies are expanding their reach. From traditional cotton textiles to high-tech fabrics, Egyptian textile products are now in high demand around the world.

Nobeltex-GIES, a family-owned group of companies, was founded in 1990, with a legacy datingback to 1958 when my father founded GIES. We provide the Egyptian market with the best textilemachinery, accessories, solutions and systems.

Our experience spans over 60 years in the field ofmachinery for spinning, weaving, dyeing, embroidery, twisting, doubling, and rewinding, as well ashumidification, ventilation, and waste removal systems. We also supply, install, and maintain fireprotection systems.

In our pursuit of sustainable success and benefits for the Egyptian textile industry by providingpremium solutions, we partnered with Biancalani in 2006.

This collaboration has been a successstory for both companies.

What do you remember of the very first times working together?

What I first noticed of Biancalani was their passion for excellence, which is evident in the finequality of their machines. I was also impressed by their careful attention to details and their steadycommitment to customer service.

Interview with our esteemed Biancalani agent in Egypt Mrs. Laila El Gammal and President ofNobeltex:

It was crystal clear that Biancalani treats every project, big orsmall, with the same level of care and professionalism.

No matter how insignificant a request mayseem, they always go above and beyond to meet their customers' needs.

When was your agency founded and how long have you been working for Biancalani?

How has your professional relationship been evolving? What has made it a strong one?

46 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

For 17 years, our partnership with Biancalani has been built on a shared commitment to excellence.Through political and financial changes, pandemics, and lockdowns, we have faced many challenges together. But through it all, we have never wavered in our determination to overcomedifficulties and provide our customers with the best possible products and services.

Imagine an agent from another country is considering a collaboration with Biancalani: whatBiancalani’s strengths would you emphasize?

Certainly, it is the high Quality and excellent performance that strongly competes in the market.One of the greatest privileges of Biancalani’s machines is the flexibility to make it perform as “astand-alone” or in integrated line to perfectly and efficiently accommodate customers’ need.

Thepreventive and periodical maintenance have never been easier since Biancalani’s machines do notwear out the spare parts easily and so they do not need to be changed a lot thanks to the top 100% European quality and technology used to manufacture these machines. Maintenance can bedone in a few easy steps, without the need for professional assistance.

Can you recall a particular, maybe funny episode that has happened to you as an agent and that isworth telling?

I don’t recall a funny incident, but I’d like to say that the collaboration between

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing our two companieshas always been a delight, thanks to the professionalism, kindness, and lightheartedness of Mr.Michele Gabarra when we first started, and also when Mr. Rudy Muntasser joined aboard. I stillremember how proud and flattered I was when Biancalani approached me to be their agent inEgypt, and how welcoming and friendly the Biancalani team has been ever since.

What is the best part of your job and what is less interesting but hey, it’s part of it anyways?

As the daughter of a gentleman who was heart and soul involved in the revival of the Egyptiantextile industry, I feel that I'm the extension of his dreams of excellence. That's why I feel that thebest part of my job is when I am praised for a deal done well that benefits all parties.

It's alsoincredibly rewarding to know that the service I provided has made a big difference for mycustomers, for the quality of the products they produce, and for their businesses as a whole.

Eng. Ehab Helal, Mr. Rudy Muntasser, Mrs. Shaimaa Fawzi, Eng. Nayla El Tawil and son

Definitely the environmentally friendly AQUARIA. I expect that it makes a bang in the future withthe raising awareness to preserve water and power.

went to Germany, sealing the contract for

More about our Biancalani agent in Egypt:

agencies ofinternational textile machines

My least favorite part of the job is when I have to deal with shady characters who wrongly thinkthat I am easily manipulated since I am a woman alone in the men’s world. Immediately, they learntheir lesson when they realize what kind of rival I am.

Mrs. Laila El Gammal is the daughter of Engineer Mohamed Hussein El Gammal who was one of thefounders of the textile Industry in Egypt. He was a pioneer in the textile spinning and weavingindustry in Egypt and chairman of Misr Fine Spinning and Weaving Kafr El Dawar, the first chairmanof Misr Damietta Spinning and Weaving and his last position before retiring he was the chairman ofBeida Dyers.

Looking to the future, what is the product by Biancalani you perceive as the most important?

He was also the one who travelled to the USA to finalize the contract for the supply of viscoserayon plant and who

the supply of Nylon. Postretirement in 1958, he started his own company G.I.E.S. specializing in commercial manufacturers.

In 1976 when the business was suffering, Eng. Laila El Gammal entered the family business andmanaged to save it , through sheer hard work and gritty dedication, establishing her own 2companies Nobeltex and IEI, and transforming the group into the biggest textile machinery agencyin Egypt .

Looking towards the future, Mrs. El Gammal decided to pass the company on to herdaughter, Eng. Nayla El Tawil, who has already joined her at Nobeltex.

Next upcoming event: If you are coming to ITME Africa and Middle East in Nairobi, Kenya, make sure to meet us together with our trusted local partner in Egypt the Italian Pavilion at Booth HT076 from November 30th to December 2nd. Our team is looking forward to giving you precious insights about how to dry, soften, and wash fabrics more efficiently and reduce energy consumption.

Don't miss out on this exciting opportunity to witness the enthusiastic novelties regarding our recently patented machinery and processes we have prepared for you.

ITME Africa and Middle East | Booth HT076 | Italian Pavilion | 30 November to Eng. Mohamed Hussein El Gammal with President NASSER

2 December 2023 | Nairobi.

47

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Archroma celebrates a century of sulfur dye innovation at its Castellbisbal site in Spain Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today celebrated 100 years of sulfur dye innovation at its manufacturing and research hub in Castellbisbal, near Barcelona in Spain.

BThe milestone was marked at an onsite ceremony attended by more than 250 guests, including authorities from the Catalan government, senior Archroma leaders from Spain and overseas, current and former staff, key customers and suppliers and other important stakeholders.

“Delivering consistent product quality and breakthroughs that have shaped the development of sulfur dyes, Archroma Castellbisbal has a heritage of excellence that has stood for a century. The expert team here is now poised to lead the next wave of advancements in the textile industry with a goal to continue to enhance the effectiveness and ecofriendliness of sulfur dyes and dyeing processes,” Mark Garrett, CEO of Archroma Group, said. “Archroma remains committed to maintaining Castellbisbal’s high standards and to investing in our people and facilities here.”

The Castellbisbal site traces its roots back to 1921, when Joan Cardoner Vidal founded a dye manufacturing company that was eventually bought by Sandoz, which was subsequently acquired by Clariant, and later, SK Capital to create Archroma. Its breakthroughs have helped sulfur dyeing technology become a staple

48 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

in the production of denim, casual wear and workwear fabrics over the past 100 years, with excellent color fastness and cost-efficiency.

Home to a leading research center that has contributed numerous innovations, Castellbisbal is particularly known for the creation of Archroma’s DIRESUL® RDT range in the 1980’s, which entered the market as the first low sulfide pre-reduced sulfur dyes.

Recently, Archroma developed the cutting-edge DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK which enables a significant impact reduction in the dye synthesis, allowing for the creation of new black denim styles.

Among patented technologies from the Castellbisbal-based research team are the DIRESUL® EarthColors and

FiberColors dyes, which use waste from the food and textile industries respectively as raw materials. These revolutionary innovations manufactured at Castellbisbal for customers, brands and retailers, help to advance circularity in the textile industry.

The Castellbisbal site also leads the industry for its rigorous quality control measures, and contributes to the local community by partnering food banks and social service organizations, and collaborating with academic institutions specializing in chemistry. Castellbisbal also produces dyes used for the paper market, including DIRESUL® NATURAL BROWN P and DIRESUL® BLACK PFT. ®

Trademark of Archroma registered in many countries. © 2023 Archroma.

The Montex®Coat coater serves a diverse number of technical textile markets.

Rethinking energy with Monforts in Shanghai China continues to lead the world in the production of textiles and investments in textile machinery, making ITMA Asia + CITME, which takes place in Shanghai from November 19-23, a must-attend event for Monforts.

“While remaining the world’s largest producer of clothing and footwear, China has also been the largest consumer of these products since 2021,” says Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski. “The country now accounts for 25% of the global clothing and footwear market, with the USA in second place with a 21% share and Europe with a 20% share. This suggests a significant change, since the biggest market for China’s products is now its own.

European machine builders like Monforts, however, have much to contribute to ensuring all markets continue to grow sustainably, and we are looking forward to many fruitful discussions in Shanghai.”

Efficiency At stand C07 in Hall 5 at the Shanghai exhibition, Wroblowski and

50 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

other Monforts experts will be on hand to explain the advantages of Montex stenters for essential drying processes in terms of production throughput – and especially in energy efficiency and resource savings.

Both the ECO Booster and the Energy Tower can also be retrofitted to existing ranges, in order to make production more resource-efficient and economical, yet without having to invest in a new machine.

“Because finishing is a particularly energy-intensive part of the textile production chain, it is exactly where convincing results can be achieved and we have developed a wide range of energysaving measures,” says Wroblowski. “This not only includes state-of-the-art machine chamber insulation, but also heat recovery systems.”

“If anything, today’s high energy prices are only encouraging investment, because for our customers, energy costs can account for up to 70% of production costs, so there is great demand for ways of saving money,” Wroblowski says.

“This also helps in terms of global warming and reducing carbon footprint, of course. We see the energy crisis of the past two years as an opportunity because it is leading to an energy consumption rethink in the textile industry.”

The Monforts Universal Energy Tower, for example, is a free-standing air/air heat exchanger that achieves energy savings of up to 25%.

The ECO Booster heat recovery system with integrated automatic cleaning is meanwhile directly integrated into the chamber design of the Montex stenter and enables energy savings of up to 35% depending on the application.

One ECO Booster module is sufficient for stenter ranges with up to eight chambers.

Denim Two major areas of specialism for Monforts technologies are in denim production and the finishing of a wide range of technical textiles.

Over 900 Monforts Thermex hotflue dyeing systems are now operational in the main textile producing countries, with

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing around 150 of them already reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® and Econtrol®TCA processes.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying process with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes at a temperature of between 120-130°C and a relative humidity volume of 25-30%.

The latest innovation for denim manufacturers is the CYD yarn dyeing system which integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparatory processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – in order to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity.

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim fabrics industry, whether that is through the successful incorporation of new fibres, accommodating new fabric constructions or exploring the many options for how to treat them at the finishing stage, to gain a market advantage,” says Wroblowski.

“These latest Monforts lines allow users

Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski.

to be extremely versatile and respond quickly to market demand, while also allowing very short production runs.”

Technical textiles The Montex®Coat coater meanwhile serves a very diverse number of markets and enables full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments, as well as solvent coatings to be carried out. Key applications include tents, tarpaulins and awnings, black-out roller blinds and sail

cloth, automotive interior fabrics and medical disposables.

“Technical textiles are a key pillar of the Monforts production programme and we are always exploring potential new applications with our customers,” says Wroblowski. “There remains huge potential for the expansion of this market in Asia and we will be happy to discuss the possibilities of this very flexible technology with you in Shanghai.”

Econtrol® is a registered mark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.

51

Picking the right Rotary Screens when printing on knits or wovens Choosing the perfect rotary screen depends on many factors. Still, it is a very important choice. Whether you print with an appropriate rotary screen ultimately determines the quality of your output to a great extent. One of the factors that determine the most suitable screen is the fabric you print on.

Even the way the fabric is constructed has a lot of influence. Knits and wovens are major examples of this. These substrates require different specifications in a rotary screen. In this blog, we will dive into the factors that determine the selection of your rotary screen and use knits and wovens as examples to show how this works.

In our Comparison Guide for Rotary Screens, you discover more about the rotary screen selection process and various rotary screens.

2 factors determining your rotary screen selection Two main factors determine which screen best suits your application. The first is the screen's mesh count, or resolution. The second factor is the amount of printing paste allowed through. This is determined by the screen's holeshape, diameter and screen volume.

52 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

In this blog, we will discuss two specific types of fabric to print on: wovens and knits. Different screens are best suited for both substrates; in both cases due to the above factors. The infamous moiré effect also plays a role in screen selection, although this is particularly true with wovens. So let's start there.

Printing on wovens: challenges, opportunities and the perfect Rotary Screen(s) In wovens, we distinguish plain weave, twill & satin. These are mainly used in home decorations and formal wear, such as men's shirts or dress pants.

Such textiles often contain finer designs, where precision is paramount. If too much paste is applied to such designs, the texture deteriorates, and the design is no longer sharp. This is why the screen should not let too much paste pass through and, simultaneously have enough finesse to realize the required details.

The OrtaScreen (with 195 mesh) or the NovaScreen 195ED are good choices for printing fine designs on high-quality woven fabrics. If you want to print the finest line possible, choose the Nova 195ED. If the line must be perfectly straight, use the Orta 195.

However, with woven fabrics, you have a chance of generating fabric moiré.

This happens when the raster of the woven fabric interferes with the raster used in the design, giving an undesirable effect. We solve this with the so-called screen geometry, which is different on every screen. The various types (Penta, Random, Nova, Orta) have different geometries.

For example, the holes of Penta screens run exactly in the direction of the weft. However, that weft is not always perfectly straight, and the screens also slope slightly, naturally caused by the production process of the screens. This might cause moiré effects. Therefore, for Nova screens, this angle is adjusted (15 degrees down, 45 degrees up). For Orta screens, this is even -15 and +75 degrees.

This makes these screens more suitable for moiré-sensitive woven fabrics.

Printing on knits: challenges, opportunities and the perfect Rotary Screen(s) In comparison to wovens, knits have more volume. As stated before, the material being printed on determines how much paste is needed. Knits need more printing paste to achieve good coverage and penetration on the fabrics. This is caused by the construction of knits,

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Fig. 1 Screen Geometry of standard and Penta 105-125 (left) & Nova, SP- and Penta 155 screens (right)

where the yarns may twist during the washing-off process, uncovering blank spots.

Knits are inherently stretchable, which is why they are often used for close-tobody wear. This makes the coverage of the substrate a tricky one. Swimwear and sportswear are typical examples of this.

Knits are also common in women's fashion, where bright colors are used. It is important for the printed fabric that the color remains consistent when the fabric is stretched.

Because of knits’ stretchability, much more paste penetration is needed to make the design look acceptable. This means it requires screens with large holes that can let more paste through under the same pressure. At the same time, the screen's resolution must be good enough for high-quality designs, especially with bright colors. This means we’ll need a screen with high mesh.

For the above reasons, the NovaScreen® 165ED and 135ED are often chosen for printing on knits. These screens have a high resolution due to their mesh count but feature larger holes for the paste transfer. These factors allow you to print bright and saturated colors in high quality, with paste add-on as required for knits. Especially for black and navy colors, which are used as contrasting blotches in designs, this is a great advantage. For blotches, the Noa 135ED are the preferred screens to print with, whereas for spot colors, the Nova 165ED is most suitable.

However, this is not always as black and white as wovens versus knits. We see many specific challenges in the market that call for different solutions.

For example, it is important to keep the paste at the fabric's surface as much as possible when it comes to pigment printing. Especially for kids' wear and budget-oriented prints, the Random Screen Eco is the right solution. Its special random hole structure combines perfect coverage with a low printing penetration.

The main benefits are that the fabric's handfeel remains softer due to less usage of binder. Moreover, printing with the Random Screen Eco is more economical and sustainable as the paste consumption is much lower.

Another example of a specific challenge is printing logos on fabric.

These logos are often small and very smooth. They barely absorb any paste, so this must be done very precisely. Runout and spread are likely to occur. When challenges like these occur, our experts look for a customized solution to print the

design in the highest quality possible.

As there are many different applications and solutions, SPGPrints is happy to function as a collaborative partner. We want to go beyond just supplying the screen; together with you, we look at the challenges in your printing process and which screen solution would best meet them.

The best screen solution for specific designs The examples in the previous chapter show that not only the substrate but also the intended design frequently creates challenges that push you toward a particular solution. But what is the best solution for your design?

Our Comparison Guide compares a wide range of screens focused on specific applications. Geometric designs, halftones and flat tones are discussed, and our specialists explain why certain screens are better options for specific, challenging designs.

Custom solutions for exceptional challenges In the above comparison, we clarify how the type of fabric you print on determines which screen is most suitable.

53

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Bruckner is the first choice of Finishing for Texpasa Texpasa is a family business whose roots go back to 1978. Through various historical stages such as yarn spinning, circular, and flat-bed knitting, Texpasa has evolved into a state-of-the-art company that knits, dyes, and finishes a variety of textiles for the apparel market. In addition to its first plant in Guatemala City, Texpasa completed its second plant in 2020 at the Michatoya Industrial Park in Palin incorporating knitting, dyeing, and finishing facilities. Texpasa is consolidating the original factory into the new facility and relocating the Bruckner stenters, the first of which began operating in 2007, to Palin with support from Bruckner technicians.

Technological Advancements: Bruckner’s Role in Texpasa’s Vision A total of seven Brückner stenter frames with vertical chains will be operating in the Michatoya plant from the start of 2024. The latest POWERFRAME stenter with 10 bays was put into operation in 2022. All Brückner stenters in the Michatoya Industrial Park are counter-construction.

Thus, the heating and ventilation elements change the dryer side every 1.5 meters, which leads to an absolutely uniform air admission, i.e. a very homogeneous air quantity and temperature distribution over the entire fabric web width. They offer the highest possible drying performance and process control matched to the fabric quality thanks to the technically mature and proven split-flow ventilation system.

From left to right: Axel Pieper and Regina Bruckner (CEO Bruckner ), Francisco Solares (GM and Vice President of Texpasa), Juan Niemann (Bruckner representative in Guatemala).

result in the lowest possible electrical and thermal energy consumption and thus in low production costs.

Bruckner Stenter Frames: Pioneering Quality and Reliability David Franco, Texpasa’s Maintenance Manager, acknowledges Bruckner for their exceptional machinery and reliable service, particularly emphasizing their vital role during the intricate relocation process. Anticipating the operation of seven Bruckner stenter frames at the Michatoya plant starting in 2024, including the latest POWER-FRAME stenter, Texpasa reaffirms its dedication to adopting state-of-the-art technology while upholding quality standards.

Texpasa’s Green Initiatives Sustainability forms the bedrock of Texpasa’s business ethos. The company has invested significantly in sustainable

This is extremely important for the major sports and leisure brands in which Texpasa supports. Robust and lowmaintenance chains, chain bars, and pin bar carriers stand for long service life and low wear.

The finishing results are exactly reproducible and overdrying of the fabric during machine standstill is ex-cluded by the air bypass system. Minimal air pressure losses and high-quality insulation

54 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

Brückner stenter at Texpasa

energy sources such as photovoltaics and biomass, complemented by extensive tree planting initiatives contributing to a biomass forest. Moreover, Texpasa demonstrates its commitment to responsible wastewater treatment, aligning with environmental stewardship and regulatory requirements.

Texpasa and Bruckner remarks on the collaboration Francisco Solares, GM and Vice President of Texpasa puts it in a nutshell: “The Bruckner machines perfectly fit our demanding sustainability concept. The quality of the finished fabric is excellent and the stenters impress with energy efficiency and low production costs. We appreciate very much that Bruckner accompanies us as an innovative supplier of high-quality textile finishing lines and reliable service partner”. Bruckner appreciates this long-standing customer, too.

Regina Bruckner , CEO says: “As a traditional and highly innovative familyowned company, we attach great importance to sustainability both in our production facilities and in our products.

Texpasa is a very good example of how investing in the future, sustainability, and environmental protection can go hand in hand. We are very pleased about this long-standing cooperation and wish Texpasa continued success.”

The highlights from Groz-Beckert at ITMA in Milan From November 19 to 23, 2023, ITMA Asia + CITME invites the textile industry to the National Exhibition and Convention Centre in Shanghai, China. Groz-Beckert will be presenting the highlights and innovations from its six product areas – Knitting, Weaving, Felting, Tufting, Carding and Sewing – in Hall H4 Booth C06.

Knitting The Knitting product area is showing the novelties of its four product groups Circular Knitting, Flat Knitting, Legwear and Warp Knitting. The Circular Knitting product group is presenting two new knitting systems and a new compound needle, developed together with cooperation partners.

One of the new knitting systems is the innovative LCmax™ circular knitting machine needle in combination with the newly developed sinker SNK-F. The LCmax™ features a completely new, wave-shaped shank geometry. The use of the needle reduces energy costs in the

knitting process through minimal power consumption and reduced machine temperatures. Compared to a standard needle, up to 20 % of energy consumption can be saved by using the LCmax™.

At the same time, the LCmax™ enables utilization of the maximum machine speed and easy handling.

The new SNK-F sinker also features significantly higher wear resistance. It also enables smoother running of the circular knitting machine and improved loop structure.

Together with the innovative sinker SNK DUO-OL, the new SAN™ DUO forms the second new knitting system from GrozBeckert. Both the SANTM DUO and the SNK DUOOL feature a particularly low shank with predetermined breaking groove.

The low shank minimizes soiling in the knitting process with abrasive yarns. The predetermined breaking groove in turn enables controlled needle

56

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

breakage in the event of wear at the desired point. This reduces errors in the knitting process as well as downtimes.

Another innovation is a new compound needle from Groz-Beckert for circular knitting machines. With this needle variant, the closer is guided safely and precisely in the groove in the needle shank. At the same time, however, the base of the needle shank is worked in a closed manner, ensuring maximum stability. The compound needle reliably prevents latching and thus makes a decisive contribution to process reliability. Its use ensures a uniform and speed-independent loop structure, even at maximum speeds.

Under the motto "Innovation through cooperation", live presentations on the innovations of the circular knitting sector will be held at the exhibition booth. They highlight the successful cooperation with development partners.

The Flat Knitting product group puts special application needles at the center of its presentation. The SAN™ TT is particularly suitable for knitting of narrow loops in the field of technical or medical textiles. The new SAN FY is designed for processing robust, uneven fancy yarns. The advan-

tages of the SANTM series are an increase in process reliability and a reduction in needle breakage rates, as well as a particularly precise loop pattern.

Particularly durable dur™ needles for the sock and fine hosiery sector with high load limits, as well as the steadily growing portfolio of system parts, is presented by the Legwear product group. In addition, products for application-related use in the production of smooth, plush or patterned plush knits are presented. Thanks to their high resistance, these needles help to reduce knitting process costs.

Its continuously growing portfolio of modules is showcased by the Warp Knitting product group. They enable an individual and varied production spectrum including easy needle handling. The system components have been supplemented by the newly developed guide needle for piezo jacquard machines. The perforating needles are characterized by fast assembly and ensure an optimized appearance of the fabric. The new guide needle is presented with the specially developed "JacquART Visualizer", which visually and interactively simulates the function and movement of the system parts.

nates defective healds and drop wires.

In addition to the machines for weaving preparation, the division will be presenting its broad product portfolio of healds and heald frames. The healds from Groz-Beckert enable fast warp preparation, high filling insertion performance, fewer production interruptions and perfect fabric quality. An extensive heald program with different materials and end eye shapes is available depending on the application.

The wide range of Groz-Beckert heald frames ensures effective fabric production on modern, high-performance weaving machines. High stability, low weight and easy handling define the proven quality and reliability. The heald frames offer a variety of innovative solutions, such as intelligent damping systems or high-performance carbon fiber profiles.

Weaving

Felting (Nonwovens)

The Weaving product area is presenting two weaving preparation machines: the KnotMaster tying machine and the automatic drawing-in machine WarpMasterPlus. The high-performance KnotMaster tying machine is characterized by simple handling, fast warp changes and reduced waiting times. The spectrum ranges from single and double knots with short knot ends to four combined knotting types based on Quattro technology.

The Felting product area presents products for classic needling or hydroentanglement. Likewise, its comprehensive range in the field of application advice. In the field of felting needles, visitors can see two world firsts: a new barb design for felting needles and the Groz-Beckert felting needle module.

The WarpMasterPlus enables maximum efficiency in the drawing-in process.

The machine is divided into four individual modules and guarantees not only flexibility but also simple set-up and maintenance procedures. Due to its modular design, the WarpMasterPlus is either available without any drop wire module or with up to eight drop wire magazines that can be adjusted individually. For draw-in widths of over four meters, an individual machine width is possible. The WarpMasterPlus offers an optional transport of healds and drop wires and elimi-

The new barb design of the felting needles was specially developed for needling highly abrasive fibers to achieve delayed wear. The barb shape also reduces clogging of the barbs, for example when needling bentonite mats.

The new Groz-Beckert felting needle module was developed in cooperation with the Dilo Group for their innovative MicroPunch intensive needling technology. Groz-Beckert felting needles are embedded as a module in a plastic mold.

The felting needle modules are characterized by very high deformation resistance and offer new dimensions in needle density. This is made possible by the new intensive needling technology, which was specially developed for light grammages.

The assembly and replacement of the modules are also particularly economical.

In the field of hydroentanglement, Groz-Beckert shows its HyTecTM P jet strip, which features significantly improved wear resistance and handling properties. The division also presents its extensive range of trials on the staple fiber needling line at the Technology and Development Center (TEZ) in Albstadt, Germany, with a virtual tour.Tufting For the production of tufted floor coverings such as carpets, bath mats or artificial turf, the Tufting product area is presenting its proven gauge part system at the Groz-Beckert booth. In addition to needle and looper modules, the system

57

also comprises the reed finger module and tufting knives. To ensure the interaction of all components, the highest precision is required in the production of all individual components. The coordinated combination of different materials and the functional interaction ensure a convincing result when using the GrozBeckert gauge part system.

Carding Various new and further developments are presented in the Carding product area. For those interested in the nonwovens industry, for example, the world's finest interlocking wire for reduced risk of crash is included. In addition, new SiroLock™ plus types from the Groz-Beckert InLine card clothing series are presented, enabling higher uptime of the card and a more uniform carding result due to their special tooth geometry.

For customers in the spinning industry, the division is exhibiting a new maintenance-free cylinder wire with increased service life and lower maintenance costs.

In addition, further developed stationary flats and revolving tops are presented.

The revolving tops have been adapted to the processing of fine yarns, while the stationary flats have been provided with a new, resistant aluminum profile.

The comprehensive range of services offered by the Carding division is also presented. All facets, from sales and service to application consulting are clearly demonstrated in a video.

Sewing The Sewing product area focuses on presenting its special application needles SANTM. The sewing machine needles of the SANTM series have been specially developed for demanding sewing operations. The SAN 5.2TM, for example, is particu-

larly suitable for sewing technical textiles such as airbags thanks to its increased stability and secure loop pick-up. The SAN 6TM offers high process reliability when processing woven fabrics such as denim.

Both the SANTM 5.2 and the SANTM 6 are equipped with a GEBEDURTM coating. This protects the needles from wear and damage, especially in the point area.

The slim yet dimensionally stable SANTM 10 is used for sewing fine knitted and woven fabrics. The even slimmer SANTM 10 XS is perfect for extremely fine materials or materials that require critical sewing.

The Sewing product area is also presenting its patented INH (Ideal Needle Handling) quality management system at the trade show. INH enables easy handling of sewing machine needles in sewing shops, as well as seamless and digital documentation of all needle changes and breakages. The quality management system includes various work tools such as the needle dispensing trolley, the needle return box, and two software components developed by Groz-Beckert: the "INH@site" app and the "INH@office" administration program.

Sustainability Numerous products, services and the latest innovations from Groz-Beckert focus on reducing the company's carbon footprint. That Groz-Beckert's commitment also goes beyond this is shown by the sustainability theme corner. Here, examples from the company are presented to show which measures have already been implemented and what role the topic plays in everyday life.

58

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

World-class technology, local support How Swiss machinery companies serve the huge Chinese textile industry China is obviously one of world’s biggest textile markets. The industry there has experienced substantial growth and evolution, becoming a hub for textile production, innovation, and consumption. Swiss machinery manufacturers adapted in the past to the specific market situation and are now ready and able to support the future goals of China’s textile manufacturers.

In China, the textile industry is forward-looking and resilient – with a healthy appetite for new technologies and a determination to keep its leading position. Sustainability is increasingly coming into focus, so there is a growing demand for recycling technologies, as well as automated solutions and digitalization. Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary General of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association, is clear: “China is the main market for a large number of our association members.”

Market proximity Swiss companies realized many years ago that geographical proximity is the key to success. For example, Stäubli has

60

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

started to set up offices in Chinese cities since 1998 and counts 12 locations today, to serve the whole country. In 2002, Itema established a centralized local branch which today has 160 employees in various functions. Loepfe has expanded its presence by creating an independent local business unit to overcome the 9,000 km distance by air, while Uster Technologies has had a Chinese subsidiary since 1982, with offices and service stations in different provinces. Luwa set up its offices and workshop in Shanghai in 1997. Rieter established a presence in mainland China in 2005, driven by a strong commitment to expanding the country’s know-how and expertise – and ten years later opened an advanced research center. “We are firmly committed to delivering the cutting-edge technology and textile expertise to help the Chinese spinning industry stay at the forefront of innovation,” says Thomas Oetterli, CEO Rieter Group.

All Swiss companies with serious business goals in China have made similar commitments to connect with customers and maintain strong relationships.

“Geographical proximity allows the companies to adopt a strong customer-centric approach and provide more effective local

installation support, training, and field services to customers,” says Frank Naef, Head of Marketing, Loepfe Brothers.

Understanding customers Swiss companies also understand that Chinese customers require dedicated attention, and that speed is more essential than ever in delivering both machines and services.

China’s move towards self-sufficiency is a continuing trend. Stäubli has developed local products for the Chinese market and built long-standing partnerships with many local companies. “The technical development of the partners goes hand in hand with our local competence, which we have built up in Hangzhou over the years,” says Fritz Legler, Textile Marketing Officer at Stäubli. Developments in new technology and automation are taking Chinese mills further into the digital age, with machinery incorporating intelligence and high engineering performance.

Manufacturers in China are seeking cost-effective solutions to remain competitive, while consumers are looking for value in their purchases. Companies need to develop solutions that provide tangible

economic benefits to their clients.

Furthermore, energy savings have become paramount in China, due to the government's commitment to environmental sustainability and reduced carbon emissions. “Businesses are adopting more energy-efficient processes and technologies to meet stringent energy conservation and emission reduction targets,” says Peter Schnickmann, Managing Director at Luwa Air Engineering (Shanghai). He notes an investment trend for solutions helping Chinese companies cut operational costs and minimize their carbon footprint.

To enhance the reputation of both companies and products – and boost the image of the entire industry – the environmental impact needs to decrease.

Priorities are saving water and waste, as well as reducing, replacing or completely eliminating the use of harmful substances.

China has a strong demand for environmental-friendly solutions and sustainable technologies. “China is an important business partner for Benninger demanding salt-free dyeing solutions, water consumption figures and modern dispensing systems,” says Rolf Erik Schoeler, Head of Sales & Marketing at Benninger Group.

Customer-oriented in weaving The huge number of Chinese fabric producers calls for an immense volume of weaving machinery to be supplied by international and local providers. Thanks to their customer-oriented approach,

Swiss machinery manufacturers hold an impressive share of this business.

Chinese weavers require advanced technology, with increasingly higher standards of efficiency. Swiss Textile Machinery Association members meet these needs in many ways. In weaving preparation, latest solutions match the speed, quality and reliability now wanted.

Weaving machines too offer the eco-efficiency, performance, and ease of use needed, with innovations that extend the scope of sustainable weaving, and openplatform systems configurable to weavers’ specific operations.

It’s important to note that Swiss weaving machinery is appreciated both by major manufacturers and by the smaller companies who need both reliable equipment, as well as expert training and ongoing support.

A huge increase in demand for technical textiles in recent years has been driven by applications such as carbon fiber, aramid and glass fiber. “We will take the occasion of the upcoming ITMA Asia in Shanghai to host an event sharing knowhow and experience on technical fabrics,” says Matteo Mutti, Managing Director at Itema Switzerland.

Profitable in spinning China’s competitive advantages come from its large-scale and integrated manufacturing capabilities, along with the use of advanced automation and digitization

technologies. Spinners aim to capitalize on extended market opportunities, with more economical production. The latest air-jet spinning machines serve these goals, allowing exceptionally low production costs per kilogram of yarn, coupled with high flexibility and reliability.

Sustainable yarns are in great demand. Innovative systems from Swiss manufacturers enable spinners to produce fine, high-quality ring and compact yarns from challenging raw material. This holds true even with a relatively high proportion of mechanically recycled cotton fibres.

The automation trend in spinning mills focuses on connecting production processes. Data is used to ensure the highest quality standards, most efficient raw material usage, reduction of waste, and energy savings. To make spinning mills more competitive, latest solutions combine cutting-edge hardware, dataenabled software and renowned textile expertise.

For many decades, Uster has been working to improve and extend growth and quality management practices in China. “We are happy to have contributed positively to the successes and the reputation of Chinese textile products,” says Sivakumar Narayanan, Head of Marketing and Business Development at Uster Technologies.

Work together, meet together On top of growing consumer demand and technological capabilities, the latest ambitious five-year plan will drive further development of the Chinese textile industry in world markets, and Swiss companies will work with all stakeholders to enable its success.

Swiss companies are especially close to players in the Chinese market, as will be demonstrated at the upcoming ITMA Asia + CITME in Shanghai. At the event, 15 association members look forward to seeing their many customers again – and meeting new ones. They are also keen to leave a deep impression by presenting their latest innovations. Information about exhibitors from the Swiss Textile Machinery Association and their booth locations is available at https://www.swisstextilemachinery.ch/sto ries/itmaasia-booth-location.

61

The Trützschler Group at ITMA Asia 2023 Trützschler is attending the ITMA ASIA + CITME in Shanghai from November 19 to November 23, 2023. At our 504-square-meter stand number C30 in Hall 8, we will introduce the latest machines and technologies from the entire Trützschler Group – including Spinning, Card Clothing, Nonwovens and Man-Made Fibers.

Trützschler Spinning and Trützschler Card Clothing At ITMA Asia we will give you an insight into our most important innovations: For example, the TC 15 card, which has already proven very successful in the Chinese market, as well as our new global flagship in carding, the intelligent card TC 30i. Visitors can also look forward to the third generation of our Integrated Draw Frame, the IDF3, and the world’s first 12head comber, the TCO 21XL. These innovations address key customer needs in fiber processing: higher efficiency, lower energy consumption and intelligent automation – while also demonstrating the potential of digital technologies for spinning mills. Our machine expertise and technological know-how enable our customers to produce sliver with the highest possible level of quality and at maximum production speed, thus adding value and profit.

Trützschler Card Clothing (TCC) will present a wide range of technologies

The world's first 12-head comber: TCO 21XL

62

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

Perfect match: The global flagship in carding, the intelligent TC 30i, and our new Integrated Draw Frame IDF3.

from its clothing portfolio, covering the complete spectrum of applications in the spinning and nonwovens markets. TCC is also focusing on recycling applications and will showcase its contribution to sustainability in the textile industry. All features and functions are complemented by “My Wires”, our digital wire performance solution integrated into the Trützschler digital platform My Trützschler.

Trützschler Nonwovens and Trützschler Man-Made Fibers Trützschler Nonwovens will present solutions for new and environmentally friendly wipe materials, made from pulp and other fibers from renewable resources. We invite interested parties to discuss our proven Wet-Laid/Spunlace (WLS) technology and our successful Carded/Pulp (CP) solutions. Another topic will be T-SUPREMA, our needle-

punching solution – join us for information on cutting-edge machinery for the production of geo- and automotive textiles, filter media and many more needlepunched end products.

Trützschler Man-Made Fibers will demonstrate the power of OPTIMA, a flexible platform for all types of Bulk Continuous Filament (BCF) and Industrial Yarn (IDY). The new MO60, a BCF configuration for monocolor with 6 yarn ends, and many more innovations will be on display. In addition, our digital solution MY OPTIMEYE enables our customers to enter Industry 4.0 in production – for more transparency, insight and control.

The ITMA offers a great opportunity for people from across the textiles industry around the world to talk to our experts from every business unit. We are excited to finally meet our new and existing customers in Shanghai.

Saurer at ITMA Asia + CITME – 2023 Shaping the future of textiles Saurer’s innovations that excited the textile world in June 2023 will soon be presented live in Shanghai to textile experts from the Asian market. Saurer is looking forward to welcoming customers at the ITMA Asia + CITME on booth A 47 in hall 8 to showcase all the latest innovations.

The wide range of Saurer’s new machines and trendsetting ideas will once again shape the future of the textiles.

Since 1853, Saurer has been driving the transformation of the textile industry, supporting it in the areas of sustainability, digitalisation, and automation.

Saurer offers high-quality, technologically advanced, and customer-specific

automated solutions for staple fibre processing from bale to yarn. The portfolio also includes intelligent and economical twisting and cabling machines for staple fibre, tire cord, carpet, glass filament and industrial yarns.

Technology support is an important part of Saurer’s service and customers benefit from two well-equipped technology centres in China where they can be present when their materials are processed.

Live exhibits on the booth: Autocard SC 7M, Zinser 51 ring spinning machine, BD 8 and Autocoro 11 rotor spinning machines, Autoairo air spinning machine, and the new PrimeTwister. Texparts components, upgrades, and updates and the Fibrevision product range will also be on display.

Autocard SC 7M The new Autocard SC 7M is the result of a brand-new development concept, with a functional and modern machine design. With the same quality standards, the card offers an impressive 20% higher productivity thanks to a larger carding area of over 4m². Customers benefit from higher material utilisation rates thanks to advanced waste detection and automatic settings. These features are especially beneficial when producing recycled fibres.

The automatic adjustment of the revolving flats gauge and the pneumatically assisted piecing-up technology simplify the operating process, reduce the mill's manual labour, and significantly improve production efficiency.

BD 8 – Pioneer for recycling and waste spinning The BD line of semi-automatic rotor spinning machines has been recognised and established in spinning mills worldwide for over 50 years. They are the benchmark for sustainable spinning and ideal partners in the field of recycling and waste spinning.

Autocard SC 7M

64

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

The new BD 8 is supplied with automatic doffer units (DU). The doffer changes the packages without interrupting the spinning process. Equipped with up to four doffers, the BD 8 is providing sufficient doffing capacity even for coarse yarns. Double-digit energy savings and yarn quality improvements can be achieved with the new suction device Twinsuction being installed at both machine ends.

The unique Digital Joint Spinning In piecing technology enables fast, fully automatic machine start-up. High production losses due to power failures are a thing of the past. Take-up speeds of up to 230 m/min, an LED operator guiding system to increase machine efficiency, ergonomic machine operation and the flexibility offered by the Multilot, Pilotgroup and Fancynation functions enable Saurer customers to react flexibly to demands of the yarn market.

BD 480 Plus - with new automatic doffer The needs of the textile industry are Saurer's top priority, therefore the semiautomatic rotor spinning machine BD 480 Plus is now available with an automatic doffer for package change. With 2 automatic doffer units (DU), customers can benefit from increased efficiency and a reduction in manpower.

Autocoro 11 rotor-spinning machine The new, fully automatic Autocoro 11 rotor-spinning machine is the 4th generation of Autocoro with individual drive technology, which is already operating reliably with more than 1 million positions worldwide. The Autocoro 11 is making production at the same time sustainable and cost-effective. It saves up to 10% energy compared to its predecessor, the Autocoro 10. Investment in new technology pays off: Autocoro's energy consumption has been reduced by 38% over the last 15 years.

Equipped with the Recycling Xtreme rX edition, the new Autocoro generation

is tailor-made for recycled fibres. Special dirt-repellent surfaces are in use for the rX yarn guides, opening rollers and fibrebeard supports. The new patented rotor cleaning technology keeps the rotor groove clean, and the new extraction system removes waste even more efficiently. The Synchropiecing 60 technology now increases the piecing capacity of Autocoro 11 by 65%, allowing to maintain high efficiency even with difficult materials such as mechanically recycled fibres. In addition, the Autocoro 11 shines with more powerful automation and with a new LED-supported operator guidance system, which further enhances the high productivity of the Autocoro 11.

Autoairo air-spinning machine The Autoairo sets new benchmarks for producing high-quality air spun yarns named Belairo. These yarns have high pilling resistance and are very durable.

The spinning process itself also sets new standards. Compared to combed ring spun yarn, the production of Belairo yarns uses less energy, less manpower, fewer machines, and less production space, which means lower building and air conditioning costs.

Saurer has combined this resourcesaving spinning technology with an advanced automation solution: simultaneous piecing with Synchropiecing on each spinning position. Thanks to the digital control of the autonomous spinning positions and new smart features, yarn quality is guaranteed. Saurer’s Autoairo air-spinning machine offers the flexibility to process different fibres, even simulta-

neously, thanks to Multilot: cotton, polyester, viscose as well as new chemically regenerated fibres.

Autospeed roving frame The energy efficient Autospeed roving frame with automatic doffer allows spinning mills to be less dependent on the availability of skilled personnel and at the same time increases the quality of the roving. The Autospeed roving frame with up to 240 spindles saves up to 20% of energy compared with the previous model, while doffing takes less than 2 minutes. Autospeed can be combined with the automatic bobbin transport system, with Roweclean, the automatic tube cleaner and the Rowestore empty tube magazine.

Zinser 51 – Saurer’s new ring-spinning machine generation At the ITMA Asia, Saurer presents the Zinser 51 ring spinning machine series for the first time. The series is offered as a ring-spinning or as a compact-spinning machine. The Zinser 51 sets new standards for sustainable spinning, maximum economy, optimised user-friendliness, and flexible automation solutions in ring spinning.

The newly designed suction system, combined with proven energy-saving features, achieves high energy savings. The new NSD-i drafting system monitors all drives to ensure consistent yarn quality values over the entire length of the machine. This reduces operator workload and speeds up lot changes. The innovative and robust intermediate drive

Zinser 51 – Saurer’s new ring-spinning machine generation

65

Flexidriver NFD ensures consistent yarn quality on extra-long machines. High-end components such as the Texparts Eshape spindle and Spinnfinity, ideal for highspeed spinning, enable top speeds of up to 30,000 rpm. To produce high-quality compact yarns, the new Zinser 51 can be equipped with the reliable compact units Impact FX and Impact FX pro.

ZI 451 worsted compact-spinning machine The ZI 451 worsted compact-spinning machine for wool fibres and their blends with acrylic, silk and cashmere fibres impresses worsted spinners with its high flexibility and profitability. Most of the finest woollen suits are made from yarns spun on the ZI 451, a very popular machine in the long staple fibre spinning industry worldwide.

PrimeTwister – the new two-for-one twisting system Saurer's new PrimeTwister, the twofor-one twisting system for staple fibre yarns, offers high flexibility thanks to its wide yarn count range. Energy consumption is reduced by up to 40% thanks to the unique spindle geometry and spindle bearings.

In addition, the high quality of the yarn guide elements ensures consistently high twist quality. The new machine design requires less production space, thus reducing building and air-conditioning costs. Minimal maintenance and service requirements as well as reduced assembly and installation times complete the machine concept. The PrimeTwister is an economical and future-proof investment. The unbeatable price/performance ratio combined with Saurer's worldrenowned reliability guarantees a high return on investment.

CompactTwister The advanced spindle and drive design of the CompactTwister offers low power consumption and short doffing times combined with a low yarn breakage rate. Balloon limiters, energy-saving spindles, optimised drives, and many other features on Saurer’s twisting and cabling machines result in significant energy savings. Twisting recycled yarns increases the strength for further downstream processing and extends the yarn's range of application.

66

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - October-November 2023

TechnoCorder TC2 Plus The TechnoCorder TC2 Plus can process a wide range of yarns and offers a yarn lubrication device to ease further process steps. The latest feature, PreciWinding, (TC2 Plus) features a newly developed take-up area for producing twist packages of a very high quality.

CarpetCabler/CarpetTwister 1.12 Among its many impressive features, the CarpetCabler/CarpetTwister 1.12 offers an energy-saving spindle range and central computer-controlled balloon adjustment. With the new series, customers will be able to meet the demanding requirements of an ever-changing market with confidence and reliability.

Fibrevision – synthetic yarn monitoring for DTY, IDY, BCF and POY Fibrevision's yarn quality monitoring and grading systems minimise waste from the start by detecting yarn faults early, recording quality data and optimising production. This is essential for both virgin and chemically recycled synthetic fibres. The use of recycled polymeric material can lead to unpredictable defects during the manufacturing process. It is becoming increasingly important to monitor and grade yarns as quality requirements increase and more recycled material is used. Fibrevision's Total Quality System (TQS) covers a wide range of yarns from polymer spun yarns (POY, FDY) to texturised yarns (DTY).

Depending on the application, industry and requirements, a variety of quality sensors with different methods are used: from tension monitoring (Unitens), optical monitoring (FrayTec FV2) and oil monitoring to looking for defects in broken filaments, interlacing and yarn fineness.

Fibrevision's systems can be used in-line on the machine, in the laboratory or as atline instruments for product development.

Texparts – the world of components The Texparts product line supplies high-quality components for ring and rotorspinning that ensure highest yarn quality and maximum productivity. The newly designed PK 1580 drafting system for roving frames is ergonomically designed and easy to use. Fast and precise load adjustment allows to process a

wide range of fibres and is also of advantage for recycled fibres. With the new RB 105 complete rotor bearing system, mills can upgrade existing rotor spinning machines to a highperformance solution.

The new Texparts Eshape spindle has a reduced wharve diameter of 17.5 mm.

Combined with the Spinnfinity zero underwinding system, Eshape enables remarkable energy savings of up to 6%.

Thanks to an adapted yarn cutter, Spinnfinity is now also available in a new version for worsted and coarse yarns. Texparts offers a wide range of high-quality rings and travellers which is continuously extended to meet the needs of spinning mills.

Sun – Service Unlimited Sun – Service Unlimited offers solutions for a long and sustainable service life for installed Saurer machines.

Customers can make existing machines fit for processing recycled fibres - either with updates and upgrades, clever preventive maintenance services or with technology kits including original Belcoro and BD Value Line spinning components for nearly every textile application. There are numerous solutions available to increase the quality, performance, and profitability of spinning mills. Saurer's customer support experts will be on the booth to explain the benefits of the various solutions.

Automation for spinning and twisting Automation plays an important role in the transformation of the textile industry.

Saurer offers various automation solutions that enable textile mills to reduce labour costs, optimise material flows, shorten lead times, and increase productivity.

Saurer’s innovative automated guided vehicles (AGVs) for spinning and twisting improve mill productivity and reduce dependence on staff availability. With tailormade, customer-specific solutions, Saurer meets the growing demand for costeffective automation. Besides automation inside the machine – doffing at roving and ring frames – Saurer offers various transport and package automation systems between the machines. 

Picanol to exhibit at ITMA ASIA + CITME in Hall 3, Booth C11 ITMA ASIA + CITME, which comes soon after ITMA 2023 in Milan, will once again represent an excellent opportunity for Picanol to demonstrate its technological leadership in airjet and rapier weaving machines. Visitors to ITMA ASIA + CITME will be able to discover five different high-tech weaving machine types and the PicConnect digital platform in Hall 3, Booth C11, from November 19-23, 2023, in the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai.

Picanol's Ultimax, the all-new and revolutionary rapier weaving machine, will be shown for the first time in Asia.

“It goes without saying that the current global business environment has become very challenging. At Picanol, we

are confident, however, that by choosing the right partner, these challenges can be faced. We want to be the best possible partner for our customers so they can do just that. Not only are we continuing to expand our sales and service network to ensure we are as close as possible to our customers, but we also want to be the world’s leading weaving machine manufacturer and offer the best products and technological solutions. Committed to our four design principles— Smart Performance, Sustainability Inside, Driven

by Data, and Intuitive Control — we have once again succeeded in terms of setting the benchmark in the industry. As a premiere for the Chinese market, we will introduce the brand-new Ultimax rapier machine and novelties on our OmniPlus-i Connect airjet weaving machine. We will also be showing PicConnect, our unique digital platform. All of this will be demonstrated with our five machines and the

state-of-the-art demo possibilities we will have at our booth,” comments Johan Verstraete, Vice President Weaving Machines.

Picanol will have five weaving machines on display: the latest Ultimax rapier machine as well as the GTMax-i 3.0 Connect, and a GTMax-S Connect rapier machine. In addition, two of the OmniPlus-i Connect airjet weaving machines will be shown at the Picanol booth. Our sales and service team will also demonstrate the unique functionalities of our new digital platform, PicConnect. With PicConnect, Picanol is centralizing its digital tools and services in one new fully digital platform. At ITMA ASIA + CITME, visitors will get the opportunity to discover all the benefits and latest features of PicConnect in order to leverage the full extent of the possibilities offered by the Picanol weaving machines..

67

Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX OCTOBER - NOVEMBER 2023 ACIMIT.......................................................................................21 Archroma Pakistan Ltd ...................................................BC Benninger AG.............................................................17 Chhipasons.................................................................68 CCI USA.....................................................................FC DyStar Singapore........................................................27 Ferraro Spa .................................................................37 Fong’s National Engineering ......................................13 Groz-Beckert ..............................................................33 Graf + Cie AG ............................................................35 Itma Asia + Citme 2022 .............................................IBC ITM 2024 ...................................................................59 IGATEX Pakistan 2024 ................................................63 iTextiles.......................................................................43 Jet Logistics.................................................................68 Loptex SRL .................................................................3 Messe Frankfurt ........................................................45 MS Printing Solutions .................................................25 Picanol .......................................................................39 Rastgar ...................................................................6&68 Rieter ...........................................................................9 Saurer ..........................................................................1 Santex Rimar Group ...................................................19 SSM ...........................................................................41 SPGPrints..................................................................IFC Suessen ......................................................................11 Swissmem ..................................................................15 Truetzschler ................................................................49 Zhejiang Rifa ..............................................................55