Pakistan Textile Journal, March-2024

Established 1951 March 2024

Swiss Review / Special Report

Calendar of Events

Textile Asia 2024, Karachi Dates: March 1st to 3th 2024.

Venue: Expo Centre, Karachi.

Textile Asia 2024, Faisalabad

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024 ITM 2024

Dates: October 14th to 18th, 2024. th

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Dates: June 4 to 8 , 2024.

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Dates: March 07th to 09th 2024.

Venue: Faisalabad Quilim Marquee.

JIAM 2024 OSAKA

HIGHTEX 2024

Dates: November 27th to 30th 2024.

Dates: June 4th to 8th, 2024.

FESPA 2024

Venue: Osaka, Japan.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Dates: March 19th to 22nd 2024.

Venue: Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

Heimtextil 2025, Frankfurt

INTEX SOUTH ASIA 2024 Techtextil 2024 Dates: April 23rd to 26th, 2024

Dates: January 14th, to 17th, 2025

Dates: August 7th to 9th 2024.

Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

Venue: Colombo, SriLanka.

Venue: Frankfurt, Germany.

DPS World Pakistan 2024

ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025

Dates: August 16th to 18th 2024.

IGATEX Pakistan 2024, Lahore

Venue: Lahore Expo Centre.

Dates: October 28th to 31st, 2025.

Venue: Expo Centre Singapore.

Dates: May 1st to 4th 2024.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

iCADEX Pakistan 2024, Lahore Dates: May 1st to 4th 2024.

63rd DORNBIRN-GFC Call For Papers th

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Dates: September 11 to 13 2024.

Index 2026 Dates: April 21st to 24th, 2026.

Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland.

Venue: Dornbirn Austria.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

DOMOTEX asiaCHINAFLOOR 2024

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CAITME 2024

ITMA 2027

Dates: May 28th to 30th 2024.

Dates: September 11 to 14 , 2024.

Dates: September 16th to 22nd, 2027.

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Venue: Tashkent, Uzbekistan.

Venue: Hanover, Germany.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

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Vol. LXXIII No. 03 March 2024

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Publisher Nadeem Mazhar Editor in Chief Amina Baqai Associate Editor Nimrah Nadeem Production Manager Mazhar Ali

Rs. 565.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Switzerland and Pakistan continues to share healthy bilateral trade relations

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Layout & Design Noor M. Jaan

AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Website / Social Media Minhaj Ali

CORPORATE NEWS 2023 fourth quarter orders remain stationary for Italian Textile Machinery . . . .18 Bianco completing 50 years in 2024 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 AATCC: The PFAS in textiles discussion continues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Hony-Editorial Board Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

Syed Mahfooz Qutab C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

Editorial & Advertising Office

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FEATURES Agents from 21 countries attend service training at SDL Atlas facility . . . . . . . .20

B-4, 2nd Floor, 64/21, M.A.C.H, Miran M. Shah Road, Karachi - Pakistan Tel: +92-21-34311674-5 Fax: +92-21-34533616 Email: info@ptj.com.pk URL: http://www.ptj.com.pk

PTJ Europe Ltd. Registered Office: Dairy House, Money Row Green, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2ND, United Kingdom.

Registered no. 09141989 Tel: +44 792 2228 721

Total area of enrolled planted cotton acres grows by a further 25% . . . . . . . . .22 The LYCRA Company joins Performance Days seminar on textile recycling . . . .23 Discusses COOLMAX® and THERMOLITE® EcoMade fibers made from textile waste

Rieter Wins Major Order and Enters Strategic Partnership with Shanghai Digital Intelligence World Industrial Technology Group Co., Ltd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

PERSONALIA FPCCI appoints Saleem Khan Tanoli as Convener of its Central Standing Committee on Trade Promotion & Business Development . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Mimaki Europe Announces appointment of new managing director . . . . . . . . . .26

Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi.

Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

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30 41 SEMINAR Rastgar Group: Multan industries explores strategies for increased competitiveness and carbon credit opportunities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

SWISS REVIEW

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Trade Overview: Switzerland–Pakistan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

by Nadeem Mazhar, Managing Editor, Pakistan Textile Journal.

“2023 was a great year for the Swiss textile machinery sector” . . . . . . . . . . .30 Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary General of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association.

SSM: Digitization to unlock performance and growth potential . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Recycled fibres: The machinery and services . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Swiss manufacturers offer perfect matches for circularity

Saurer: Belairo – The perfect yarn for towels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 ‘Uster Fabriq Assistant – the whole story for quality info . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Automated data preparation saves time and ensures decision-making security

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Loepfe: Ibrahim Fibres Limited successful Yarnmaster® Prisma trial . . . . . . . . .37 Benninger: Modern solutions for efficiency and sustainability Latest wet processing technology from Benninger

Heberlein: ‘Stunning’ evenness in filament yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Heberlein jet technology drives innovations in demanding technical applications

SPECIAL REPORTS Mark Garrett, Group CEO, Archroma Management GmbH visits Pakistan . . . . . .42 Message from Mr. Mujtaba Rahim, President & CEO, Archroma Pakistan Limited . .46 Archroma Pakistan honored in coveted Pakistan Stock Exchange (PSX) Awards . . .47

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2023 Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Archroma is a global, diversified provider of specialty chemicals . . . . . . . . . . .49 Archroma and Artistic Milliners leverage eco-advanced sulfur black dyestuff to rewrite the future of denim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Grand happenings at Archroma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Accolades and Accreditations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Occupational Safety and Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Wastewater Management . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 World Environment Day at Jamshoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Educational Programs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Al Ameen Trading Corporation and Archroma celebrate 75 years of partnership together . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

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EDITOR’S PAGE

Switzerland and Pakistan continues to share healthy bilateral trade relations Switzerland is known worldwide for its precision watches, cheeses, chocolates and financial services. However, Swiss competence is not limited to these well-known sectors. Equally strong are the Swiss companies in the textile technology, testing equipment, chemicals and service sectors. What differentiates Swiss companies from others is their tradition and passion for innovation, precision engineering as well as their focus on high productivity and respect for the environment.

Switzerland ranks fifth in terms of foreign direct investment (FDI) in Pakistan and a reliable trading partner. According to a recent export report from Switzerland, Pakistan ranked as the 13th largest exporter of the textile machinery from the Switzerland and contributed 2% to the entire global export share of textile machinery from Switzerland.

Established 1951 March 2024

Swiss Review / Special Report

March 2024.

The Swiss multinational companies that operate in Pakistan, do not just market their world class products and services, but also create employment opportunities in the country. Major Swiss companies that have invested in Pakistan include ABB, Archroma, Clariant, Sika, Gate Gourmet, Nes--tle and Novartis.

Swiss companies have been close partners of Pakistan’s textile companies for more than six decades. Companies such as Uster, SSM, Loepfe and Rieter have helped our spinning industry to reach the highest quality standards. In the weaving sector, Staubli is the world leader in Jacquard technology and Jakob Mueller is the undisputed leader in the narrow fabric technology. Saurer is the leader in the embroidery sector.

In the world of textile chemicals, Archroma is another great example of the commitment of Swiss companies to Pakistan. Archroma’s chemical manufacturing plant at Jamshoro, Sindh is the world’s first zero discharge plant by a chemical company. With a firm commitment to the environment, Archroma has developed the world’s first Aniline free indigo, an achievement possible with the efforts of the dedicated team of Archroma.

Switzerland is one of the most competitive economies in the world. They have always strengthened their trade relations with Pakistan. The Swiss companies intend to increase their investments in Pakistan, while the current Government of Pakistan is continuously improving its imports policy to allow liberal imports of textile machinery, industrial raw materials, capital goods, and essential consumer goods. Over the centuries, the sheer innovative spirit of the Swiss has been demonstrated many times through inventions spanning various fields of human experience. Their impact on the global textile industry has been among the most notable, with continuous and significant developments.

Our current issue of March 2024, as in the past is devoted to Switzerland and in this special edition, our readers will find reports and news about Swiss companies and their innovative technological solutions for Pakistan’s textile industry as well as a comprehensive analysis of Swiss Pakistan trade relations.

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Textile Briefs National Pakistan's textile sector showcased a robust recovery in February, recording a significant 20% increase in exports compared to the same period last year.

According to provisional data released by the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA), textile exports soared to $1.41 billion, marking the third consecutive month of positive growth for the vital sector.

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The latest fortnightly data released by the Pakistan Cotton Ginner's Association (PCGA) revealed a staggering 72% year-on-year increase in cotton output. As of February 29, 2024, ginners across the nation had received a total of 8.393 million bales of cotton, marking a substantial rise of 3.5 million bales compared to

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the same period in the previous year.

Pakistan's hosiery exports to China witnessed a remarkable surge of 45% over the past year, catapulting the nation into a prominent position within the global textile market. The announcement came during a press briefing

by Muhammad Irfan, Trade and Investment Counselor at the Consulate General of Pakistan in Guangzhou.

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The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) Southern Zone has vehemently opposed the staggering 223 percent increase witnessed over the past year.

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Pakistan's Ambassador to the United States, Masood Khan, under-

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scored Pakistan's burgeoning apparel sector and its readiness for robust export expansion during a public hearing held by the US International Trade Commission (ITC) in Washington DC. Speaking at the hearing on the export competitiveness of apparel industries in several Asian countries, including Pakistan, Ambassador Khan highlighted the transformative journey underway in Pakistan's apparel sector.

The Sindh Community Foundation (SCF) recently organized a certification ceremony for women cotton workers, marking the successful completion of a poverty reduction program aimed at uplifting their economic status.

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China's imports from Pakistan surged to a record-breaking $695.6 million in 2023, marking a notable increase of 46.7%, according to data released by the China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textile and Apparel (CCCT).

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Better Cotton Pakistan has initiated a groundbreaking project aimed at bolstering transparency and efficiency within the country's cotton sector through standardized data collection tools, software licenses, and training for field staff. The project aims to streamline data collection processes, ensuring efficiency, timeliness, and credibility throughout the data lifecycle.

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Textile Briefs International Cotton Australia has expressed optimism regarding the upcoming cotton crop despite concerns over the potential impact of an El Niño weather pattern, stating that the crop results are "looking positive" in light of the predictions.

Cotton Australia's Chief Executive, Adam Kay, highlighted the initial expectations of a challenging season due to predictions of a long, hot, and dry summer, which led to a crop revision below 4 million bales.

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Azerbaijan is looking to its Central Asian neighbor, Uzbekistan, for inspiration. Following Uzbekistan's remarkable transformation from a raw cotton exporter to a textile powerhouse, Azerbaijani

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

economists and officials are exploring avenues for similar growth within their own borders.

After enduring a challenging period, Bangladesh's home textile exporters have received a glimmer of hope as the sector rebounds with a positive year-on-year (YoY) export growth, marking a significant turnaround. This marks the first YoY growth experienced by the sector in 18 months.

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Bangladesh's readymade garment sector is facing intense scrutiny from the United States International Trade Commission (USITC) regarding labor rights, worker productivity, and wages. 5Brazil is eyeing to achieve a mile-

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stone in its cotton production, with expectations of a record crop size of 14.6 million bales in the 2023-24 season, marking a substantial 23.7% increase from the previous year.

The Indian textile industry is looking for expansion within the European Free Trade Association (EFTA) following the recent signing of a Trade and Economic Partnership Agreement with EFTA member countries - Norway, Switzerland, Iceland, and Liechtenstein

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Despite setbacks such as the February 2023 earthquake impacting key manufacturing regions, Türkiye's textile exports demonstrated resilience, surging to $28.5 billion last

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year, as reported by the Istanbul Textile and Raw Materials Exporters' Association (ITHIB).

Homeland Security Secretary Alejandro Mayorkas has instructed U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) and Homeland Security Investigations (HSI) to develop a comprehensive enforcement action plan within 30 days regading U.S. free trade agreements.

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A new initiative, the Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion & Textiles (B2B F&T) programme, is set to drive sustainability within the fashion and textile sector by evaluating current practices and establishing data-driven baselines. 

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News & Views Pakistan's Textile Sector Registers Strong Recovery with 20% Export Surge in February Pakistan's textile sector showcased a robust recovery in February, recording a significant 20% increase in exports compared to the same period last year.

According to provisional data released by the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA), textile exports soared to $1.41 billion, marking the third consecutive month of positive growth for the vital sector.

Despite this encouraging trend, the overall performance of textile exports in the fiscal year 2023-2024's first eight months remained slightly subdued, with a marginal 1% decrease or $0.07 billion compared to the corresponding period of the previous year.

The sector experienced a slight monthly decline of over 3% in February, as compared to the preceding month of January 2024, attributed to soaring energy prices and cross-subsidies to nonproductive sectors. These factors have notably undermined the competitiveness of Pakistan's textile and apparel industry.

APTMA, representing Pakistan's largest industrial sector, has urgently called upon authorities to cease crosssubsidies and ensure the provision of affordable and reliable energy to sustain the textile sector. A dire warning accompanies this plea: over 50% of textile firms could face imminent closure in the forthcoming weeks if immediate action is not taken.

Pakistan's textile exports surge in February 2024, as revealed by APTMA data, is a significant milestone for the country's economy. The sector, accounting for more than half of Pakistan's total exports and serving as a crucial source of foreign exchange, underscores its pivotal role in driving economic growth.

Earlier remarks from Pakistan's Caretaker Minister for Commerce, Dr. Gohar Ejaz, further underscored the positive trajectory of the country's exports.

With a notable

Dr. Gohar Ejaz, Caretaker Minister for Commerce, Pakistan

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increase of approximately 30% over the span of three months, exports witnessed remarkable expansions of 28% in December, 27% in January, and another 30% in February 2024. Notably, sectors such as manufacturing, engineering, food, and agricultural products displayed commendable growth rates, signifying a broad-based improvement in Pakistan's export landscape.

Pakistan's Cotton Output increased by 72% on YoY basis during the month of February The latest fortnightly data released by the Pakistan Cotton Ginner's Association (PCGA) revealed a staggering 72% yearon-year increase in cotton output.

As of February 29, 2024, ginners across the nation had received a total of

8.393 million bales of cotton, marking a substantial rise of 3.5 million bales compared to the same period in the previous year.

A closer look at the province-wise breakdown showcases the remarkable growth trajectory. Punjab, a cornerstone of Pakistan's cotton industry, reported a notable surge with 4.265 million bales, representing a robust 42.8% year-onyear increase from 2.99 million bales in the corresponding period last year.

Meanwhile, Sindh, another key contributor to Pakistan's cotton production, reported an even more remarkable leap. Cotton arrivals in Sindh soared to 4.115 million bales, witnessing an impressive 119% year-on-year jump from 1.88 million bales reported last year.

Despite this substantial increase in cotton output, concerns linger regarding meeting the initial targets set for the fiscal

year 2024. It is estimated that only an additional 0.5 million bales will be produced over the remaining fiscal year, resulting in a significant shortfall of roughly 4.3 million bales. This shortfall paints a stark contrast against the initial and considerably higher target of 12.8 million bales set for the fiscal year.

Pakistan's Hosiery Exports to China Surge by 45% over the past year Pakistan's hosiery exports to China witnessed a remarkable surge of 45% over the past year, catapulting the nation into a prominent position within the global textile market. The announcement came during a press briefing by Muhammad Irfan, Trade and Investment Counselor at the Consulate General of Pakistan in Guangzhou, who emphasized the pivotal role of this development in strengthening bilateral trade ties.

Irfan underscored the multifaceted factors fueling this exponential growth, citing Pakistan's robust textile industry renowned for its top-notch quality and costeffectiveness. "The remarkable surge in hosiery exports underscores Pakistan's competitive advantage and underscores our growing significance in the global market," he stated.

Detailing the staggering increase in export figures, Irfan revealed, "Overall pantyhose, tights, stockings, socks, and other hosiery exports from Pakistan to China soared from $9.81 million in 2022 to an impressive $14.32 million in 2023, marking a significant 45% increase." He further noted that cotton-based hosiery and footwear exports experienced an even more substantial surge, rising from $7.61 million to $11.55 million within the same period, representing a remarkable 51% growth.

The surge in exports follows the successful participation of the largest Chinese delegation at TEXPO, Pakistan's premier textile exhibition, last year. Irfan expressed optimism for further growth in bilateral trade, stating, "The overwhelming participation at TEXPO demonstrates the potential for exponential growth in our trade relations. With TEXPO gearing up for another impactful event this year, we anticipate even greater success."

With this surge, Pakistan stands poised to leverage the evolving landscape of global trade, as noted by China Economic Net (CEN). Speaking on the economic implications, Irfan emphasized, "Increased export earnings will bolster our foreign exchange reserves, create employment opportunities, and stimulate growth within the domestic textile sector, which is a vital engine of Pakistan's economy."

APTMA southern zone denounces Government's Gas Tariff Surge: Textile Industry Faces Grim Future In a resolute stance against the recent escalation in gas tariffs, the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association

News & Views (APTMA) Southern Zone has vehemently opposed the staggering 223 percent increase witnessed over the past year.

Characterizing it as a severe blow to Pakistan's export-driven textile sector, APTMA warns of dire consequences for the country's position in the global market.

During an Extraordinary General Body Meeting convened earlier this month, attended by a multitude of industry stakeholders including the Central Chairman of APTMA, the consensus was unanimous: the exponential rise in energy costs spells disaster for Pakistan's textile exports, which constitute a substantial 60 percent of the nation's total exports.

The meeting highlighted the alarming trajectory of gas tariffs, which skyrocketed from Rs 852/MMBTU to Rs 2750/MMBTU within a span of just over a year. Such exorbitant hikes, coupled with unprecedented financial burdens like a record-high interest rate of 22 percent, render Pakistani exporters severely uncompetitive against regional rivals such as India, Bangladesh, and Vietnam.

Zahid Mazhar, Chairman of APTMA Southern Zone, sounded the alarm, citing a 30 percent capacity closure among textile firms and the looming threat of total shutdowns in the weeks ahead. The inability of electricity providers in Sindh and Balochistan to meet industrial demands exacerbates the situation, as gas-based power generation becomes the only viable option for uninterrupted operations.

APTMA contends that the government's push for grid electricity usage overlooks the practical realities of regions like Sindh and Balochistan, where such infrastructure is inadequate. Instead of boosting grid consumption, this policy stance risks plunging more textile mills into oblivion.

Pakistan's Apparel Sector all set for Export Growth, Ambassador Asserts at US Trade Commission Hearing Pakistan's Ambassador to the United States, Masood Khan, underscored Pakistan's burgeoning apparel sector and its readiness for robust export expansion during a public hearing held by the US International Trade Commission (ITC) in Washington DC.

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Speaking at the hearing on the export competitiveness of apparel industries in several Asian countries, including Pakistan, Ambassador Khan highlighted the transformative journey underway in Pakistan's apparel sector. He noted that individual companies in Pakistan are embracing advanced traceability technologies to ensure supply chain transparency in line with global standards.

Ambassador Khan shed light on Pakistan's Ambassador Masood Khan commitment to sustainability under the Net Zero Pakistan Initiative, emphasizing leading apparel companies' dedication to achieving net-zero carbon emissions by 2050.

Highlighting the significance of the United States as Pakistan's largest export destination, Ambassador Khan noted that Pakistan holds a 3.3% share of the US market in textiles and apparel. However, he pointed out that Pakistan faces challenges due to the lack of preferential access to the US market, with apparel exports subject to applicable Most Favored Nation (MFN) tariffs reaching up to 38.3%.

Emphasizing Pakistan's pivotal role as the fifth-largest cotton producer globally, Ambassador Khan outlined Pakistan's efforts to enhance cotton productivity and promote sustainable development practices within the industry.

Addressing investment opportunities, Ambassador Khan highlighted Pakistan's

liberal investment regime, which fosters a conducive environment for both foreign and local investors. He noted that the apparel sector has witnessed a significant influx of investment, with approximately $5 billion in fresh local investments recorded in recent years for expanding textiles and apparel manufacturing chains. Additionally, imports of new machinery worth around $2.2 billion from 2019 to 2023 underscore the sector's capacity for further expansion.

Sindh Community Foundation Empowers Women Cotton Workers Through Economic Training Program The Sindh Community Foundation (SCF) recently organized a certification ceremony for women cotton workers, marking the successful completion of a poverty reduction program aimed at uplifting their economic status. The program, funded by the Asia Gender Equality Fund of the Asian Venture Philanthropy Network (AVPN), focused on providing training for small homebased enterprises to bolster women's participation in income generation and foster their economic independence.

Under the guidance of development experts including Rajkumar, Nalila Khaskheli, Dr. Hira Araeen, and Dr. Sundus Bhutto from the Agriculture Extension Department of Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam, SCF conducted four three-day training programs. These sessions, attended by a total of 120 women cotton workers from 12 villages in district Matiari, covered a diverse range of topics including poultry

News & Views rearing, livestock management, vegetable and food preservation, and enterprise development.

During the certification ceremony, Javed Hussain, head of SCF, highlighted the seasonal poverty experienced by women cotton workers and outlined SCF's commitment to addressing this issue through the provision of seed support, market linkages, and mentoring for starting home-based small businesses.

Hussain stressed the importance of government support in providing seed capital to enable these women to establish and expand their enterprises, ultimately improving their livelihoods.

Trainers emphasized that the advanced skills acquired by the participants would empower them to earn better livelihoods through homebased small businesses, provided they have access to market information and support. One participant, Naseem, a woman cotton worker from village Hashim Mallah, expressed enthusiasm about the new techniques learned in poultry and livestock management, highlighting their potential to increase income and alleviate off-season poverty.

China's imports from Pakistan surged to a record-breaking $695.6 million in 2023 China's imports from Pakistan surged to a record-breaking $695.6 million in 2023, marking a notable increase of 46.7%, according to data released by the China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textile and Apparel (CCCT).

This substantial uptick in imports is indicative of broader challenges facing

Pakistan's textile industry, including soaring energy prices and supply disruptions, which have resulted in the closure of over a thousand factories.

when stakeholders, including consumers, legislators, and industry players, are increasingly demanding transparency in cotton sourcing and supply chains.

The allure of competitive pricing offered by foreign cotton yarns, notably from Pakistan, India, and Uzbekistan, has further fueled China's import growth.

Pakistan's exports to China experienced an exceptional surge of 351.1% in December alone, contributing significantly to China's cotton yarn imports for the year, accounting for 15.8% of the total.

Better Cotton Pakistan's endeavour seeks to address these demands by implementing sophisticated technological solutions at the grassroots level of farming. Nearly 40% of Better Cotton Producer Units in Pakistan are expected to embrace tech-driven data collection methodologies during the initial phase, paving the way for enhanced sustainability and efficiency in the sector.

Despite a marginal 2.9% decrease in the overall value of China's yarn trade to $19.68 billion in 2023, imports witnessed a substantial increase of 13.2% to $5.98 billion. Notably, cotton yarn imports recorded a robust surge of 43.4% to 1.687 million tons, signaling China's escalating dependence on imported cotton yarn.

In January 2024, the Monitoring Evaluation and Learning, Data, and Assurance teams from nine Better Cotton Programme Partners in Pakistan convened for a comprehensive workshop to lay the groundwork for the project.

The workshop focused on standardizing data collection tools and capacity building, ensuring seamless integration of digital data collection methods into operations.

Better Cotton Pakistan Launches Digitalization Project to Enhance Transparency and Efficiency in Cotton Sector Better Cotton Pakistan has initiated a ground-breaking project aimed at bolstering transparency and efficiency within the country's cotton sector through standardized data collection tools, software licenses, and training for field staff.

The project, launched ahead of Pakistan's 2024 cotton season, aims to streamline data collection processes, ensuring efficiency, timeliness, and credibility throughout the data lifecycle.

This initiative comes at a crucial juncture

Muhammad Qadeer ul Hussnain, digital agriculture manager at Better Cotton, emphasized the strategic move towards digitalization as a testament to Better Cotton's commitment to enhancing efficiency, improving data quality, ensuring traceability, and strengthening data governance within the cotton sector.

In a related development, Better Cotton confirmed that one of the three new companies added to the US Department of Homeland Security's Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) entity list was a Better Cotton member, highlighting the organization's ongoing efforts to uphold ethical standards within the industry.

Around the World

AUSTRALIA Cotton Australia Optimistic Despite El Niño Concerns Cotton Australia has expressed optimism regarding the upcoming cotton crop despite concerns over the potential impact of an El Niño weather pattern, stating that the crop results are "looking positive" in light of the predictions.

El Niño, a climate phenomenon characterized by warmer-than-average ocean temperatures in the Equatorial Pacific, can have widespread effects on global weather patterns. It occurs irregularly every 2-7 years and can persist for several months to over a year, disrupting typical atmospheric circulation and ocean temperatures in the tropical Pacific.

Cotton Australia's Chief Executive, Adam Kay, highlighted the initial expectations of a challenging season due to predictions of a long, hot, and dry summer, which led to a crop revision below 4 million bales. However, welcomed rains across major growing areas have altered the outlook, with expectations now exceeding 4.5 million bales, translating to over $3.6 billion for the Australian economy.

As of mid-March, Australia's 1,500 cotton growers have commenced picking their 2024 crop or are preparing to do so in the coming weeks, according to Cotton Australia. Farmers are reportedly confident of another above-average season.

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For the current season, cotton has been planted on 480,000 hectares of land, primarily in New South Wales and Queensland, with additional cultivation in the Northern Territory and Western Australia.

Recent seasons have seen favorable rainfall contributing to robust cotton crops, with production reaching around 5.6 million bales in previous years.

AZERBAIJAN Azerbaijan Eyes Textile Sector Revival with Inspiration from Uzbekistan's Success Azerbaijan is looking to its Central Asian neighbor, Uzbekistan, for inspiration. Following Uzbekistan's remarkable transformation from a raw cotton exporter to a textile powerhouse, Azerbaijani economists and officials are exploring avenues for similar growth within their own borders.

During the Soviet era, cotton cultivation played a vital role in Azerbaijan's economy. However, the sector faced significant challenges postSoviet dissolution, including internal conflicts and market losses. In recent years, Azerbaijan has been reassessing its cotton policies, aiming to reignite its textile sector's potential.

The success story of Uzbekistan serves as a beacon of hope for Azerbaijan's textile ambitions.

Uzbekistan's strategic shift, coupled with

substantial investments in its textile industry, has propelled it to become a global textile exporter, reaching markets across Europe, Russia, and the Far East.

Economist Eyyub Karimli underscores the potential for Azerbaijan to replicate Uzbekistan's achievements, citing close economic ties between the two nations.

He emphasizes the importance of leveraging Uzbekistan's experience to enhance Azerbaijan's textile sector, fostering economic diversification and sustainable growth.

Karimli envisions collaboration beyond textiles, pointing to opportunities in Uzbekistan's burgeoning machinebuilding and household goods sectors. He believes that by tapping into Uzbekistan's progress, Azerbaijan can accelerate its economic development and bolster its position in regional markets.

BANGLADESH Bangladesh Home Textile Exporters Witness Resurgence with YoY Growth After 18-Month Decline After enduring a challenging period, Bangladesh's home textile exporters have received a glimmer of hope as the sector rebounds with a positive year-on-year (YoY) export growth, marking a significant turnaround.

Data released by the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) on Monday (4

Around the World March) revealed that exports of home textile products surged by 9.9% YoY to $84.61 million in February this year, compared to $77 million in the same month of the previous fiscal year. This marks the first YoY growth experienced by the sector in 18 months.

The sector had been grappling with consecutive months of YoY negative growth since September 2022, when export earnings plummeted by 18.44% YoY to $84.96 million, initiating a downward trend.

Rashed Mosharraf, Executive Director of Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd, attributed the decline in exports to the economic repercussions of the Russia-Ukraine war since February 2022. Additionally, he noted that Bangladesh faced stiff competition from Pakistan, which benefited from favorable currency exchange rates.

Despite these challenges, efforts are underway to mitigate the impact by diversifying orders to countries like India and China, yielding positive results.

Mosharraf expressed optimism about the sector's prospects, foreseeing an improvement in export trends in the coming months.

The gradual improvement in global market conditions has also contributed to the sector's resurgence, Mosharraf highlighted, emphasizing the importance of securing orders from alternative markets to sustain growth.

US International Trade Commission Scrutinizes Bangladesh's Garment Sector Over Labor Rights Bangladesh's ready-made garment sector is facing intense scrutiny from the United States International Trade Commission (USITC) regarding labor rights, worker productivity, and wages.

Representatives from Bangladesh's apparel sector recently endured a gruelling four-hour virtual hearing conducted by USITC Chairman David Johansson and his colleagues, as part of an investigation into labor practices in major garment-exporting countries to the US. The USITC's inquiry, initiated at the request of the US Trade Representative, focuses on five key garment-exporting

nations: Bangladesh, India, Cambodia, Indonesia, and Pakistan. The commission aims to ascertain whether any of these countries gain an unfair advantage in the US market through unethical labor practices, and how they have come to occupy a significant portion of the US garment industry.

opportunity to submit written statements until March 24. The USITC is scheduled to submit its investigation report to the US Trade Representative on August 30, concluding a comprehensive examination of labor practices in the global garment industry.

At the hearing, SM Mannan Kochi, president-elect of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), emphasized the timely disbursement of salaries and festival allowances for garment workers as a top priority.

BRAZIL

Representatives from Bangladesh's commerce ministry and BGMEA fielded questions from the USITC. Faruque Hassan, the outgoing president of BGMEA, addressed most inquiries on behalf of Bangladesh.

In response to queries regarding labor productivity compared to Cambodia, Hassan highlighted challenges, noting that Bangladesh's labor productivity lags behind China, Vietnam, and Indonesia.

He also addressed concerns about trade unions in Bangladesh's Export Processing Zones, stating that while there are trade unions in every apparel factory, they may operate under different names. Hassan clarified that Bangladesh hosts over 1,400 export-oriented apparel factories with trade unions, contrasting with Cambodia's multiple trade unions in its factories.

Following the virtual hearing, all countries involved were given the

Brazil Anticipates Record Cotton Crop Brazil is eyeing to achieve a milestone in its cotton production, with expectations of a record crop size of 14.6 million bales in the 2023-24 season, marking a substantial 23.7% increase from the previous year. This surge in production further solidifies Brazil's position as a major contributor to the global textile industry.

The projected production would establish a new record for Brazil, propelling it to become the third-largest cotton producer globally, trailing only behind China and India. According to the US Department of Agriculture (USDA), China's crop for the same period is estimated at 27.5 million bales, with India following closely at 25 million bales.

With this remarkable production forecast, Brazil is set to surpass the United States as a leading cotton producer in 2023-24. USDA data indicates a domestic crop of 12.4 million bales for the US, reflecting a year-on-year decline of

15

Around the World 13.9%.

Márcio Portocarreiro, Executive Director of the Brazilian cotton growers' association Abrapa, attributed the enhanced yields to the adoption of advanced technology. He highlighted precision farming techniques that enable growers to monitor and manage crops more efficiently, optimizing resource utilization and boosting productivity.

Traditionally, the top cottonproducing countries have included China, India, and the United States. In the US, cotton cultivation historically thrived in the Southern states, forming the renowned 'Cotton Belt'. However, changes in soil conditions, societal shifts, and economic factors have led to a decline in cotton production in this region, with acres now predominantly utilized for crops like corn, soybeans, and wheat.

TÜRKIYE Türkiye Textile Industry Aims for Global Manufacturing Leadership Türkiye's textile industry is steadfast in its ambition to emerge as the world's premier global textile manufacturer, despite grappling with challenges exacerbated by recent global crises.

Despite setbacks such as the February 2023 earthquake impacting key manufacturing regions, Türkiye's textile exports demonstrated resilience, surging to $28.5 billion last year, as reported by the Istanbul Textile and Raw Materials Exporters' Association (ITHIB). This remarkable growth underscores the industry's adaptability and capacity to flourish amidst adversity.

The 5th edition of the Texhibition Istanbul Fabric, Yarn, and Textile Accessories Fair, held in Istanbul, served as a testament to Türkiye's textile industry's determination and potential.

The event brought together industry stakeholders from Türkiye, Japan, Spain, and beyond, facilitating collaboration and showcasing Türkiye's textile industry prowess.

Organized by prominent Turkish industry bodies and supported by entities including the Ministry of Trade, Turkish

16 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

Exporters Assembly (TIM), Istanbul Chamber of Commerce, Small and Medium Enterprises Development Organization (KOSGEB), and Istanbul Fashion Market (IFM), Texhibition Istanbul expressed a collective commitment to promoting and fortifying Türkiye's textile industry domestically and internationally.

USA Homeland Security Directs Enhanced Enforcement Against Unfair Textile Trade Practices Following a virtual meeting with the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), Homeland Security Secretary Alejandro Mayorkas has instructed U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) and Homeland Security Investigations (HSI) to develop a comprehensive enforcement action plan within 30 days.

During the meeting, NCTO members raised concerns about individuals and entities engaging in unfair market practices by circumventing U.S. free trade agreements, violating the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, and exploiting U.S. law's de minimis provision, which permits the informal entry of shipments valued at less than $800. These concerns were shared in a letter to Mayorkas by the House Select Committee on the Strategic Competition Between the United States

and the Chinese Communist Party.

In response, CBP, HSI, and other relevant DHS agencies and offices are intensifying efforts to prosecute illegal customs practices that harm the U.S. textile industry. This includes increasing and expediting enforcement actions, utilizing traditional methods such as physical inspections, testing, production verification visits, and audits. Additionally, CBP is enhancing its capability for isotopic testing of imported goods suspected of forced labor violations.

As chair of the Forced Labor Enforcement Task Force, DHS is collaborating with other agencies and the private sector to expand the UFLPA Entity List. Mayorkas affirmed that DHS will leverage all available tools, including identifying suspicious transhipment practices, publicly identifying bad actors, isotopic testing, random parcel inspections, and other law enforcement efforts, to uphold market integrity, hold perpetrators accountable, and protect the American textile industry.

UNITED KINGDOM £2m Programme to Establish Sustainable Practices in Fashion and Textiles A new initiative, the Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion & Textiles (B2B F&T) programme, is set to drive sustainability within the fashion and textile sector by

Around the World evaluating current practices and establishing data-driven baselines.

Led by the Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour (LITAC), the two-year project, supported by the National Environment Research Council, the Arts and Humanities Research Council, and Innovate UK, aims to align future strategies with environmental targets.

With a funding of £2 million, the programme underlines the significance of addressing evidence and data gaps in circular fashion and textiles, emphasizing quality and potential impact.

The interdisciplinary network seeks to assess the sustainability of existing and proposed practices, aligning them with net-zero goals, while identifying barriers to adoption and potential interventions for maximum impact. Project funding is available at three levels - up to £5,000, up to £20,000, or up to £50,000, with a mandatory completion period of six months.

Individuals or consortia, including academic-industry collaborations and multi-disciplinary consortia involving companies or academic research groups, can apply for the Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion and Textiles network.

Membership in the network is free, and

applications from a diverse range of stakeholders are encouraged.

Professor Stephen Russell, director of LITAC and the Back to Baselines in Circular Fashion and Textiles Network, expressed enthusiasm about the opportunity for researchers and industry stakeholders to address sustainability and environmental impacts in the sector.

He highlighted the importance of establishing scientifically validated baselines to inform future decisionmaking, emphasizing the transformative potential of the programme in driving sustainable practices within the fashion and textile industry.

Corporate News

2023 fourth quarter orders remain stationary for Italian Textile

Machinery In the fourth quarter of 2023 Italian textile machinery orders index, drawn up by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, appears to be stationary compared to data recorded for the same period in 2022. In terms of absolute value, the index stood at 82.4 points (basis: 2015=100).

This is the result of an upswing in orders from foreign markets, counterbalanced by declining orders on the domestic front. While orders in Italy decreased at 18% rate, a 4% increase was observed abroad.

The absolute value of the index on foreign markets amounted to 77.9 points, whereas it came in at 126.2 points domestically. Overall for the fourth

18 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

quarter, the average order backlog yielded 3.7 months of assured production.

For the whole 2023 year, the index declined 25% overall compared to the 2022 average (absolute index of 82.4).

On the home front however, the index dropped 24% (absolute index of 124.5), while slipping 25% abroad (absolute index of 78.4).

ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè commented the data: “The orders index for October – December 2023, as elaborated by our Economics Department, confirms an intake of orders that is still weak, with a negative trend in demand for machinery that is ongoing for the domestic market.” Nonetheless, the orders index abroad shows a slight increase.

“We estimate that the global geopolitical context is still a source of

concern,” continued Salvadè, specifying that, “For the first nine months of 2023, Italian exports on major global markets (i.e. China, Turkey, India and the United States of America), confirm a widespread decline. However, some positive signs emerged in the fourth quarter of last year, as reflected by the latest orders index. For 2024 we expect a consolidation of this trend reversal.”

Corporate News

Bianco completing 50 years in 2024 The company is approaching an important milestone in 2024, celebrating 50 years in business. It is a prestigious achievement and a starting point toward new challenges that the Bianco team is ready to face with courage and determination. Over the years, Bianco has shown how to adapt to market developments and boost over 40,000 installations worldwide and 30 registered patents. For almost 50 years, Bianco® has been designing and manufacturing machinery with advanced technology for textile finishing, the technical textile industry, and the nonwoven industry.

Like many other industries, the textile sector has also significantly accelerated digitization processes. The path towards Industry 4.0 is now underway and Bianco® reaffirms its leadership in the future scenario, proposing highly innovative technological solutions.

Innovation in textiles is also green: the industry is facing new challenges that focus on environmental issues and sustainability. For several years, Bianco®

has been a member of the Sustainable Technologies project and of GREEN LABEL, the ACIMIT green label certifying textile machinery in the companies’ commitment to reduce emissions by improving the competitiveness and sustainability of production processes.

Bianco obtains AEO status On February 6th, 2023, Mr. Giuseppe Bernocco, President of BIANCO SpA, the CEO, Eng.Andrea Zanlnl and the Compliance Customs Manager Mrs. Manuela Germanetto were received at the Cusioms Office of Cuneo to sign the report of the company audit aimed at obtaining the AEO status.

Bianco SpA is the first Italian company in the textile machinery industry to obtain

the legal status of AEO (Authorized Economic Operator).

The authorization grants Bianco SpA even higher global standings, consolidating its commercial leadership (in business for almost 50 years) and facilitating its expansion into international markets as it is recognized both in the European Union and in important non-EU countries including the US, China, Japan, Norway and Switzerland.

AATCC: The PFAS in textiles discussion continues Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) continue to garner significant attention in textile manufacturing, given their prevalent usage in enhancing durable water repellency and stain resistance along with growing health and environmental concerns. As the discourse evolves, open collaboration among diverse perspectives is vital to making progress.

The 2024 PFAS in Textiles Conference will reconvene in Raleigh, N.C., May 2-3, 2024, at the StateView Hotel to facilitate productive multi-stakeholder discussions.

Researchers, advocates, and other presenters will assemble to share insights on emerging science, explore policy updates, evaluate safer alternatives, and align on solutions. By uniting all parties, the conference aims to build understanding, reveal real-world

complexities, and propel responsible innovation.

Last year’s conference catalyzed promising partnerships and initiatives, reinforcing the efficacy of cooperation.

The organizers look forward to expanding the coalition and empowering attendees to take the next actionable steps towards updating best practices for PFAS textile usage – working to better safeguard consumers while

enabling industries to thrive responsibly.

Colleagues from across the industry are invited to join as the conference navigates this intricate landscape together and collectively shapes the path forward.

19

Features

Agents from 21 countries attend service training at SDL Atlas facility

41 Agents from Asia, Europe, North America, South America and Africa assembled to learn the latest instrument service knowledge and skills at an international training event held at the SDL Atlas manufacturing facility. The week-long training event was designed to strengthen communication and cooperation between global partners and to enhance the expertise and professionalism of SDL Atlas' global services.

 DryRate 201 Drying Rate Tester  Rotawash Color Fastness to Washing

During the training, agents received professional guidance from SDL Atlas Service and Calibration experts and learn the most advanced product maintenance techniques and solutions.

Skills covered during the training include:  Instrument Construction and Operation: Agents learned the construction, components and working principle of each instrument, including how to properly operate and set up the instrument to various standards.

Through this training, agents gained the technical knowledge and skills to enable them to provide quality service and support services to their customers to ensure that SDL Atlas test instruments are effectively maintained and operated worldwide, while enhancing customer satisfaction and product integrity.

Hands on training occurred with the following SDL Atlas instruments featured:  AirPerm Air Permeability Tester  PowerTearTM Tear Strength Tester

20 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

Tester  PnuBurstTM Fabric Bursting Strength

Tester  Tinius Olsen L Series Universal Testing

Machine  HydroPro Hydrostatic Pressure Tester  Vortex M6 Standard Washing

Machine

 Troubleshooting and Repair: Discussions on a variety of possible failure scenarios and solutions. Agents learned how to identify the root cause of a problem and make the necessary repairs and replace parts.  Maintenance and Servicing: Knowing how to perform routine

maintenance and servicing is critical to maintaining the performance and longevity of the instrument. Agents learned to clean, calibrate and adjust the instruments to ensure accuracy and reliability.  Software Operation: Many SDL Atlas instruments have specific software for data logging and analysis. Training covered installation, configuration and use of the software, as well as exporting and interpreting data.  Resources and Support: Agents learned about the technical support and resources offered by SDL Atlas, including technical documentation, online support, and more, so that they can provide comprehensive support and service to customers.

Committed to providing customers confidence in standard based testing, SDL Atlas is ready to support its customers with instruments, equipment, test materials, and services anywhere in the world. For more information, visit www.sdlatlas.com or contact an SDL Atlas solutions expert.

Total area of enrolled planted cotton acres grows by a further 25% The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is today announcing an increase of 25% compared to 2022 in the total area of planted cotton acres enrolled in the program, reaching 1.6 million acres in 2023 – its greatest extent to date.

This represents not only impressive growth in enrolled cotton acreage in a single year but also the fourth successive year of continued expansion of enrolled cotton acres. The 1.6m planted acres enrolled in the Trust Protocol represents 16% of all planted U.S. cotton acres in 2023.

Today’s announcement therefore marks a key milestone in the growth and development of the program and means that an ever-increasing amount of more sustainably-grown cotton is available for brand and retailer members to access.

“We continue to be inspired and encouraged to see that U.S. cotton growers have once again expanded the number of planted acres enrolled in the program, underscoring their unwavering commitment to ongoing improvement,” said Daren Abney, Executive Director of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. “With the growing number of enrolled acres, we’re making even more environmentally responsible cotton accessible to our brand and retailer members for sourcing. The Trust Protocol team is excited to support

22 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

our members in their more responsible sourcing practices.”

Brand and retailer members can track both U.S. Cotton and Protocol Cotton through the Protocol Consumption Management Solution (PCMS) and claim Protocol Consumption Units (PCCUs).

Protocol Cotton is grown and harvested on Protocol farms and 1 PCCU is minted for each kilogram of Protocol Cotton in the system. To date, 970 million PCCUs are available to be consumed in the PCMS, which is equivalent to 4.45 million bales of cotton.

The Trust Protocol’s vision is to set a new standard in sustainable cotton production where full transparency is a reality and continuous improvement is the central goal. The program’s core values include a commitment to U.S. cotton’s legacy of authenticity, innovation and excellence, environmental stewardship, caring of people, and personal and corporate integrity. The program currently has more than 1,800 supplier members over 40 companies and brands including global brands and retailers such as Ralph Lauren, Gap, Levi Strauss & Co. and J.Crew.

The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals, recognized by Textile Exchange and Forum for the Future, and part of the Sustainable

Apparel Coalition, Cotton 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge, Cotton 2040 and Cotton Up initiatives. It has also been recognized and published in the ITC Standards Map, recognized as a standard for sustainable cotton by the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, and is an ISEAL Community Member.

About the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is a voluntary, farm level science-based sustainability program that is setting a new standard for delivering value to all stakeholders across the entire supply chain from farms to finished products. It is the only system that provides quantifiable, verifiable goals and measurement and drives continuous improvement in six key sustainability metrics – land use, soil carbon, water management, soil loss, greenhouse gas emissions, and energy efficiency. It is also the world’s first sustainable cotton fiber program to offer article-level supply chain transparency to all members.

The Trust Protocol is overseen by a multi-stakeholder Board of Directors comprised of representatives from brands and retailers, civil society and independent sustainability experts as well as the cotton-growing industry, including growers, ginners, merchants, wholesalers and cooperatives, mills and cottonseed handlers.

The LYCRA Company joins Performance Days seminar on textile recycling Discusses COOLMAX® and THERMOLITE® EcoMade fibers made from textile waste The LYCRA Company, a global leader in developing innovative and sustainable solutions for apparel, has announced its participation in seminars held during Performance Days Munich, March 20-21 in Germany. The seminars will explore the current state of polyester recycling from textile waste, and is hosted by Accelerating Circularity, an actionoriented non-profit organization focused on textile-to-textile recycling systems on a commercial scale.

Jean Hegedus, The LYCRA Company’s Director of Sustainable Business Development, will be a panelist in the Recycled Polyester Database Launch session, held in the Reality Zone from 3 to 4:30 p.m. each day of the fair. The platform brings together polyester recyclers and fabric producers who are incorporating textile feedstocks into their processes and products.

Following the presentation, panelists will discuss the challenges of using textile

waste and how to overcome them. Then they will break into groups to offer brands and retailers the opportunity to speak directly with providers in more detail.

The LYCRA Company has been a leader in the development of specialty polyester fibers made from textile waste, offering COOLMAX® and THERMOLITE® EcoMade fibers made from 100% textile waste since 2021. These fibers are of virgin equivalent quality, and are available in staple, filament and insulation forms and can be used in a broad variety of applications from performance wear to outdoor garments, to socks and ready-towear.

To help customers realize the benefits of sourcing products made from textile waste, last year The LYCRA Company launched “Waste for Good,” a new promotional campaign that features the tagline, “Don’t Waste this Opportunity.”

The messaging promotes the

advancement of circularity in the apparel and textile industry with COOLMAX® and THERMOLITE® EcoMade technologies.

“We are grateful to Accelerating Circularity for hosting this event and highlighting the need to move to textile waste as an input, thus setting the stage for our industry to close its own loop,” Hegedus said. “This is particularly important as recycled bottles are projected to be in short supply within the next few years, with bottling companies working to secure supply for their own recycling efforts.

Visit the COOLMAX® EcoMade and THERMOLITE® EcoMade technology web pages to learn more. ”

23

Rieter Wins Major Order and Enters Strategic Partnership with Shanghai Digital Intelligence World Industrial Technology Group Co., Ltd. Rieter received an order for the first batch of Rieter technology amounting to around CHF 62 million from Shanghai Digital Intelligence World Industrial Technology Group Co., Ltd. (DIW). Rieter also signed a strategic partnership with DIW to develop intelligent yarn manufacturing technology that utilizes digitization and automation to minimize conversion costs and maximize value for customers.

Rieter and DIW signed a first order in the amount of around CHF 62 million for combers and draw frames that will provide the basis to transform DIW’s spinning mills into state-of-the-art industrial textile operations. DIW, a fastgrowing company specializing in intelligent manufacturing and industrial operation services, selected Rieter following a competition in which the company’s machines achieved better stability and higher production than competitors. The strategic partnership of

24 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

DIW and Rieter is designed to further enhance the overall operational efficiency of DIW’s mills by providing highly efficient machines, automation and digitization technology. This will also minimize conversion cost and consolidate the sustainable growth of both companies, while contributing to the high-quality development of the Chinese textile industry.

possibilities for DIW to reduce costs and increase efficiency. It is believed that the two sides will take this cooperation as an opportunity to further explore cooperation in a wider range of fields, open up new areas for the transformation of the traditional textile industry, and contribute to accelerating the construction of a modernized industrial system.”

Yiming Liu, Chairman, Shanghai Digital Intelligence World Industrial Technology Group Co., Ltd., says: “We have selected Rieter based on its excellent technology and abundant experience.

Rieter machines provide stronger stability and higher production efficiency. The strategic cooperation between the two parties is not only a full affirmation of the previous cooperation, but also one with complementary advantages and mutual benefits, which will provide greater

Michael Hubensteiner, Country Managing Director, Rieter China, says: “We are proud that our technology came out on top in this competition, achieving greater stability and higher production than competitors. We are grateful for the trust that DIW has placed in Rieter and are confident that this partnership will be a game-changing and unrivalled success while further strengthening Rieter’s position in the attractive Chinese market.”

Personalia

FPCCI appoints Saleem Khan Tanoli as Convener of its Central Standing Committee on Trade Promotion & Business Development The Federation of Pakistan Chambers of Commerce & Industry (FPCCI) has appointed Saleem Khan Tanoli as the Convener of its Central Standing Committee on Trade Promotion & Business Development.

Saleem Khan Tanoli being the CEO of Fakt Exhibitions has a wealth of experience and a proven track record in promoting trade and fostering business development. His dedication to advancing Pakistan's commercial interests nationally and internationally aligns seamlessly with FPCCI's mission to drive economic growth and prosperity.

In his capacity as Convener, Saleem Khan Tanoli will spearhead initiatives aimed at enhancing trade promotion strategies, identifying business development opportunities, and facilitating collaborations to bolster Pakistan's position in the global market. His leadership will further strengthen FPCCI's commitment to cultivating a conducive environment for sustainable economic growth.

Mimaki Europe Announces appointment of new managing director Mimaki Europe, a leading manufacturer of inkjet printers and cutting technologies, has announced the appointment of Takao Terashima as the new Managing Director.

Starting his career in Mimaki in 1997 as part of the R&D Department, Terashima has developed his extensive expertise in Mimaki’s technology portfolio and the surrounding market over the past 26 years. Throughout his time at the company, he has taken up various senior positions across the company. Prior to this new role, he was Senior General Manager of the Asia Oceania Business Unit, a position he first started in 2017. Before this, he spent six months as Senior Deputy General Manager of Quality Management between April and October 2017.

Terashima’s career path has led him to work beyond Mimaki’s headquarters in

26 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

Japan, in positions across Mimaki’s branches. He spent four years as Managing Director of Mimaki Singapore between 2013 and 2017, and he also worked at Mimaki USA early in his career as part of the technical support staff.

Succeeding Takahiro Hiraki as Managing Director of Mimaki Europe, Terashima will bring his industry expertise, analytical thinking, business and team-building skills, as well as his extensive company knowledge, to this new role.

Excited by this latest challenge, Terashima comments: “I am delighted to take on the role of Managing Director of Mimaki Europe, in what is a landmark year for the branch.

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of the European headquarters, we can look back on the past two decades proudly, thanks

to the ongoing hard-work and effort of the team.

Looking to the future, it is key to ensure our principles of innovation, collaboration, and sustainability continue to drive us to provide excellence for our customers. With over 25 years of experience in this company and the print industry, I commit to steering Mimaki toward the next 20 years of success.”

Seminar

Multan industries explores strategies for increased competitiveness and carbon credit opportunities Multan, Pakistan – 6th March, 2024 – Renowned compressed air solutions provider, Rastgar Group, partnered with the Multan Chamber of Commerce and Industry (MCCI) to host a well-attended seminar on "Optimizing Compressed Air Systems for Increased Competitiveness and Sustainability."

The event focused on empowering Multan's industries to achieve cost reductions, improve energy efficiency for potential carbon credit opportunities, and contribute to the city's sustainability goals.

Mian Rashid Iqbal, President of MCCI emphasized the importance of selecting expert and reliable service providers for compressed air systems, underlining that while maintenance costs may seem insignificant compared to the overall compressor ownership cost, neglecting them can significantly impact the productivity of machinery and workforce, ultimately leading to costly downtimes and hindering business growth. He expressed his gratitude to Rastgar Group for organizing the seminar on a very important yet critical utility i.e.

Compressed Air, highlighting the critical role compressed air plays in powering industrial operations.

Saleem Ladhani, a renowned expert from Rastgar Group, addressed the participants on selecting the most suitable compressors, dryers, filters, and piping systems, specifically considering Multan's hot and humid climate. Muhammad Hussain, the Country Service Manager, shed light on best practices for operating and maintaining compressed air systems during the hot summer Mian Rashid Iqbal, President of MCCI season, emphasizing the importance of maintaining Fertilizer, Hani Foods, Khawaja Mineral, refrigerant dryers in Multan's specific Multan Feed, International Food, Umer weather conditions.

Fisheries, Khawaja Tannery and Multan Chamber of Commerce & Industry.

The seminar was attended by representatives from various prominent This seminar aimed to educate and companies in the region, including Fazal empower local industries with the Group, Mahmood Group, Reliance knowledge and expertise to optimize Weaving, Indus Dyeing, Sheikhoo Sugar, their compressed air systems, ultimately Masood Fabrics, Husnain Textile, H.A. contributing to improved efficiency and Fiber, Allahwasaya Textile, Pak Arab productivity.

27

Trade Overview: Switzerland– Pakistan The economy of Switzerland is one of the world's most advanced free market economies. Switzerland is ranked 1st among 45 countries in the Europe region, and its overall score is well above the regional and world averages.

Most Swiss firms (over 99%) are smalland medium-sized enterprises (SMEs).

The Swiss economy has been rated free for more than a decade. GDP growth has slowed in recent years because of risks from the escalating trade war between China and the United States, the rising Swiss Franc, and the drastic economic slowdown in neighbouring Germany. According to United Nations, Switzerland is the third richest landlocked country in the world.

Switzerland and Pakistan have good, long-standing relations. The two countries have signed a range of economic agreements that have helped to develop bilateral trade.

The Swiss embassy in Pakistan has been located in Islamabad since 1968.

The Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation (SDC) opened a cooperation office in Islamabad in 1977 when Pakistan was upgraded to a priority country for Swiss development cooperation. In 1966, Switzerland and Pakistan signed a technical cooperation

28

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

Table 1: Pak Swiss Trade Value: US$ Million Year

Exports

Imports

Balance of Trade

2017-18

184.33

442.39

-258.06

2018-19

187.66

414.96

-227.3

2019-20

223.64

407.08

-183.44

2020-21

272.05

404.19

-132.14

2021-22

285.37

310.25

-24.88

Source: Swissmem

agreement which was supplemented in 1975 by an agreement on disaster relief.

There are numerous bilateral agreements between Switzerland and Pakistan in fields as wide-ranging as investment protection, debt consolidation, aviation, double taxation and disaster relief.

Swiss Business Council had also been set up for guiding Pakistani businessmen to enhance trade volume which had also signed several memorandums of understanding (MoUs) to increase trade volume between the two counties.

Both sides recognised the vast potential of the two economies for mutually beneficial cooperation. They agreed to take concrete steps, including the exchange of business delegations and

supporting SMEs to further enhance and expand bilateral economic and commercial interaction.

Switzerland ranks fifth in terms of foreign direct investment (FDI) in Pakistan and a reliable trading partner, the Swiss-based multinational companies have invested 1.2 billion dollars in Pakistan, in various sectors including food processing, pharmaceuticals, chemicals, machinery and engineering, banking.

The Swiss multinational companies that operate in Pakistan, do not just market their world class products and services, but also create employment opportunities in the country. Major Swiss companies that have invested in Pakistan include ABB, Archroma, Clariant, Sika, Gate Gourmet, Nestle and Novartis.

Swiss Review Pak-Swiss Trade The long-standing bilateral relations between Switzerland and Pakistan are good and a range of economic agreements has aided the development of bilateral trade.

Switzerland has traditionally run a trade surplus with Pakistan and has been one of the country's biggest direct investors for many years. Pakistan and Switzerland enjoy close and friendly relations and cooperate closely at multilateral fora and Switzerland is an important development partner of Pakistan.

In the fiscal year 2022-23, products including textile machinery, pharmaceutical products, organic chemicals, electrical, electronic equipment and plastics were the main imports of Pakistan from Switzerland.

According to a recent export report from Switzerland, Pakistan ranked as the 13th largest exporter of the textile machinery from the Switzerland and contributed 2% to the entire global export share of textile machinery from Switzerland. Complete details in Table 2.

Over the past five years, trade between Pakistan and Switzerland has increased, but the rise in imports has been greater than the exports. The total trade volume between Pakistan and Switzerland in 2021-22 remained active and healthy with the balance of trade favouring Switzerland.

Table 2: Textile Machinery - Exports from Switzerland Jan-Dec 2023 versus Jan-Dec 2022 Value: Swiss Francs (CHF) Destination China India Germany USA Italy Türkiye Uzbekistan Czech Republic Bangladesh France Vietnam Japan Pakistan Brazil Thailand Egypt Indonesia Mexico Netherlands Austria Belgium United Kingdom Portugal Romania Taiwan Saudi Arabia Malaysia South Korea Poland Spain Total Source: Swissmem.

The exports from Pakistan to Switzerland have increased from US$ 272.05 million in 2020-21 to US$ 285.37 million in 2021-22, thus showing an increase of 5%.

Cotton and yarn fabrics, readymade garments, towels, hosiery, agricultural products are the major items exported from

Table 3: Exports of Swiss textile machinery to Pakistan Year 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 Source: Swissmem

Exports Mio. EUR

Exports ±EUR%

26.8 38.5 22.4 27.5 14.49 10.5

-24.5% +44% -42% -22.9% -47.3% -38%

Pakistan to Switzerland. The import from

Table 4: Breakdown of Textile Machinery Exports from Switzerland to Pakistan Quantity: Numbers Value: Rs Million Machinery

2021-2022

2022-23

Qty.

Value

Qty.

Value

Carding Machinery

28

115

4

30

Combing Machines

11

95

1

7

Exports Mio. CHF

Exports ±CHF%%

Exports Share

70.5 62.0 52.0 38.9 36.2 31.0 20.4 20.1 16.3 14.4 14.1 12.9 10.5 10.0 8.9 8.1 7.1 6.0 5.7 5.3 4.7 4.3 4.3 3.9 3.6 3.5 3.4 2.7 2.7 2.6 515.1

-17.4 -15.1 -23.2 -7.6 2.4 -30.3 126.2 -22.4 -44.0 -20.8 6.8 -47.2 -38.0 69.0 -7.4 99.1 17.5 -24.6 -23.1 7.2 9.9 -32.1 14.3 -10.1 -38.6 -17.1 106.5 -49.0 55.7 -53.6 -16.5

13.7 12.0 10.1 7.6 7.0 6.0 4.0 3.9 3.2 2.8 2.7 2.5 2.0 1.9 1.7 1.6 1.4 1.2 1.1 1.0 0.9 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.5 0.5 0.5 100.0

Switzerland to Pakistan decreased from US$ 404.19 million in 2020-21 to US$ 310.25 million in 2021-22, thus showing a decline of 23.5%. Pak Swiss Trade for the last five years is given in Table 1.

Import of textile machinery from Switzerland to Pakistan decreased from Euros 14.49 million in 2022 to Euros 10.5 million in 2023, thus showing a decline of 38%. Imports of textile machinery from Switzerland to Pakistan in terms of Euros are given in Table 3 and imports of major textile machinery in terms of rupees from Switzerland’s to Pakistan are given in Table 4.

Drawing / Roving Machines

--

--

2

9

Blow Room Machinery

29

436

23

537

Preparation of Textile Fibres

9

163

5

62

References

Textile Spinning Machines

2

5

17

76

Textile Fibre Machines

10

164

1

42

Weaving Machines (Shuttleless)

523

1,313

63

250

1.

2.

3.

Auxiliary Machines

57

847

4

62

Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics

4.

Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.

Swissmem.

State Bank of Pakistan-Annual Report-2019-20.

Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.

29

Swiss Review

“2023 was a great year for the Swiss textile machinery sector” Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary General Swissmem, Swiss Textile Machinery

Q: What are the primary objectives and strategies of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association during your tenure?

As Secretary General of Swiss Textile Machinery, my focus is on bolstering our members and enhancing the reputation of "Swiss Textile Machinery". We achieve this through various association activities.

One key aspect is our promotional efforts, such as organizing Swiss Pavilions at events like Techtextil in Frankfurt (23 26 April 2024) and hosting Swiss Textile Machinery Symposia in key markets like Mexico and the USA in autumn 2024.

Additionally, we support companies in innovation endeavours, particularly in sustainability. Skills development and training, in collaboration with the Swiss Textile College, form another crucial pillar.

Finally, we provide support and facilitate activities for our members in connection with exhibitions like ITMA and ITMA Asia + CITME.

Q: How does the Swiss textile machinery sector distinguish itself globally?

Switzerland consistently leads global innovation rankings, a feat reflected in our member companies. They're renowned for delivering innovative and sustainable solutions to textile industry challenges, positioning the Swiss textile machinery sector as a vital global partner.

30 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

Q: How do technological advancements shape the future of textile machinery in Switzerland?

issues, and disruptions like those caused by the Suez Canal blockage compound industry challenges.

Technological solutions are pivotal in addressing current challenges, notably digitalization, automation, and textile recycling solutions. Switzerland's expertise in the spinning process uniquely positions it to significantly contribute to textile recycling advancements.

Q: How does your association tackle these challenges?

Q: Sustainability is a pressing issue across industries. How does the Swiss textile machinery industry contribute to sustainability?

Sustainability encompasses ecological, economic, and social aspects, all of which our industry addresses. Efforts include reducing water and energy consumption, minimizing chemical use, improving plant efficiency, exploring alternative fibers, and advancing textile recycling technologies. Moreover, companies invest in infrastructure to enhance production efficiency through initiatives like building insulation and sustainable energy sources.

Q: What are the major challenges facing the Swiss textile machinery industry today?

Presently, a significant challenge is the low demand and subsequent low order intake. Additionally, Switzerland's currency exchange rate, geopolitical

Swiss Textile Machinery operates within Swissmem, the association for the Swiss tech industry, which provides support through legal advice, lobbying, and networking primarily within Switzerland. Collaborating with industry peers and leveraging collective expertise aids in addressing challenges effectively.

Q: How does the Swiss textile industry adapt to evolving global market trends?

Our association continually evaluates partnerships and intensifies collaborations with universities abroad to access expertise and funding opportunities.

These efforts ensure our industry remains agile and responsive to shifting market dynamics.

Q: Where do you foresee the Swiss textile machinery industry in the next five to ten years?

With a rich history of innovation and adaptation, I'm confident that our industry, drawing upon its collective expertise and experience, will remain a leader in innovation and continue providing essential solutions in the years ahead.

Swiss Review

SSM: Digitization to unlock performance and growth potential

Christian Scholz, Director Global Industrial Engineering, AMANN Group

To support customers on their digital journey and maximize the value of their digital transformation, SSM presents Nema, a digital suite allowing near real-time monitoring of connected machines, anytime, anywhere. With a clear overview of key performance indicators, Nema supports customers in taking data-driven actions in a timely manner and thus helps minimize downtime and waste.

Textile manufacturing is becoming more and more datadriven. Key players in the industry are embracing the digital transformation to enable a more profitable and sustainable growth. Nema, SSM digital suite, gathers information leading to data-based decisions, less downtime, higher productivity and better quality. It also helps customers to quickly and easily duplicate success to any connected machines, anywhere.

Early detection, quick action, lower downtime

production level, throughout the entire machine fleet.

Timely detection of any fault during the production process is difficult and often comes at too late a stage. Nema tracks machine health-related data such as machine and position errors, warnings, etc. in near real-time, and transmits these data to a dashboard, thus providing a global overview. The system alerts about any deviation for an early detection of abnormalities. Data-based decisions can be made in a timely matter, thus limiting expensive downtime, costs, and loss of revenue.

5% higher efficiency at AMANN

Quickly duplicating success to other plants Tracking key performance indicators, Nema enables customers to identify the conditions of the best performing machines. These conditions can then easily be replicated to ensure a high

AMANN is one of the leading international manufacturers of high-quality sewing threads, embroidery threads and smart yarns for technical textiles. Being innovators in its field, the company is one of the first to use Nema to oversee the performance of its eight production sites.

After only three months, AMANN optimized its manufacturing workflows, resulting in more than 5% higher efficiency on average. Real-time data is becoming a standard in the textile industry. Through near real-time monitoring and a smart utilization of production data, Nema gives the right insights, at the right time to unlock the full potential of the entire winding machine fleet.

For more information about SSM solutions please contact: info@ssm.ch.

31

Swiss Review

Recycled fibres: the machinery and services Swiss manufacturers offer perfect matches for circularity Many end-users now expect recycled materials to be in textile products they purchase – and this is definitely driving innovation throughout the industry.

However, there are still many technical and economic issues facing yarn and fabric producers using recycled resources. Members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association offer some effective solutions to these challenges.

Synthetic recycled materials such as PET can usually be treated similarly to new yarn, but there are additional complexities where natural fibres like wool and cotton are involved. Today, there’s a trend towards mechanically recycled wool and cotton fibres. Thanks to companies like Rieter, Autefa, Steiger

32 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

and Uster Technologies, such materials can now be processed. Machinery and services from these firms support further processing of recycled fibres to meet required quality standards. Swiss Textile Machinery member Stäubli also demonstrates what it means to fully embrace circularity concepts.

Spinning recycled cotton The use of mechanically recycled fibres in spinning brings specific quality considerations: they have higher levels of short fibres and neps – and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fibre data, supporting sustainability goals, including

benchmarks for blends of virgin and recycled cotton.

In general, short fibres such as those in recycled material can easily be handled by rotor spinning machines. For ring spinning, the shorter the fibres, the more difficult it is to guide them through the drafting zone to integrate them into the yarn body. Still, for wider yarn counts and higher yarn quality, the focus is now shifting to ring spinning. The presence of short fibres is a challenge, but Rieter offers solutions to address this issue.

Knitting recycled wool For recycling, wool fibres undergo mechanical procedures such as shredding, cutting, and re-spinning, influencing the quality and characteristics of the resulting yarn.

Swiss Review These operations remove the natural scales and variations in fibre length of the wool, causing a decrease in the overall strength and durability of the recycled yarn. This makes the yarn more prone to breakage, especially under the tension exerted during knitting.

Adapting to process recycled materials often requires adjustments to existing machinery. Knitting machines must be equipped with positive yarn suppliers to control fibre tension. Steiger engages in continuous testing of new yarns on the market, to check their suitability for processing on knitting machines.

For satisfactory quality, the challenges intensify, with natural yarns requiring careful consideration and adaptation in the knitting processes.

From fibres to nonwovens Nonwovens technology was born partly from the idea of recycling to reduce manufacturing costs and to process textile waste and previously unusable materials into fabric structures.

Nonwovens production lines, where fibre webs are bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, can easily process almost all mechanically and chemically recycled fibres.

Autefa Solutions offers nonwovens lines from a single source, enabling products such as liners, wipes, wadding and insulation to be produced in a true closed loop. Fibres are often used up to four times for one product.

Recycling: total strategy Great services, technology and machines from members of Swiss Textile Machinery support the efforts of the circular economy to process recycled fibres. The machines incorporate the know-how of several decades, with the innovative power and quality standards in production and materials.

Stäubli’s global ESG (environmental, social & governance) strategy defines KPIs in the context of energy consumption, machine longevity and the recycling capacity in production units worldwide, as well in terms of machinery recyclability.

The machine recyclability of automatic drawing in machines, weaving systems and jacquard machines ranges from 96 to 99%.

About Swissmem and the Swiss Textile Machinery Association Swissmem is the leading association for both SMEs and major corporations in the Swiss technology industry. Swissmem enhances the competitiveness of its 1350 or so member companies both at home and abroad by providing needs-based services. These services include professional advice on employment, commercial, contract and environmental law, energy efficiency and technology transfer. Swissmem operates a number of strong networks, including 24 industry sectors. The Swiss Textile Machinery Association is the oldest division, founded in 1940. It represents the interests of the Swiss textile machinery manufacturers.

Swissmem and the Swiss Textile Machinery Association are headquartered in Zurich.

33

Swiss Review

Belairo – The perfect yarn for towels Towels are consumer goods that have to fulfil many expectations: those of private consumers as well as those of industrial users such as hospitals and hotels. Absorbent, easy to wash, lintfree, colour-fast, durable, sustainable without a lot of chemicals – to name just a few of the requirements. For towel manufacturers, the demands on yarn quality and yarn structure are high: pilling-free, sufficient strength and stretch and few imperfections.

With Belairo yarns spun on the Autoairo air spinning machine, it is possible to fulfil all these wishes and also offer towel manufacturers new economic prospects. A towel made from Belairo yarn lasts up to 10 times longer and retains its shape better, thus contributing to sustainable use.

Everyday life without terry cloth towels is unimaginable. Everyone uses them every day in the bathroom, swimming pool, hotel or at the beach. For the user, it is important that they be soft, absorbent, easy to wash (at least 60 degrees), colour-fast and made of natural materials - preferably cotton. Towels should match the furnishings, be affordable for every budget and be produced as sustainably as possible without using a lot of chemicals.

A high-quality terry towel for private use weighs between 400 and 500 grams per square metre. Velour towels are somewhat lighter, as the loops are cut open and shortened to achieve that velvety velour effect.

Towels for use in hospitals.

34 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

Autoairo air-jet spinning machine from Saurer, for spinning perfect terry towel yarns.

Belairo yarn - a real alternative to combed ring-spun yarns In order to meet consumer demands and be successful on the market, towel manu-facturers are looking at how they can optimise the production process. One im-portant lever for cost optimisation is the yarn used. Up to 80% of the weight of the towel is made up of the pile yarn, the yarn that comes into contact with the skin.

The classics for pile yarns are combed ring-spun yarns: durable, high quality, complex to produce and correspondingly expensive. The ring yarns are combed to reduce the hairiness of the yarns and the associated formation of unwanted fibre fluff on the towel.

The combing process ensures that the towels do not become thinner through

fre-quent washing, during which short, less-bonded fibres are washed out. The short fibres responsible for this in the yarn are eliminated from the outset by combing, which accounts for approx. 1015% of the fibre mass. Towels made from cheaper, uncombed, exclusively carded ring yarns lose fibres over time due to the yarn structure.

But there is another way – with Belairo yarn which is similar to ring-spun yarn. The yarn produced on the Autoairo air spinning machine is a cost-effective alternative to classic ring yarns. Thanks to the yarn structure with parallel core fibres and the defined twisting of the wrapping fibres, all of the fibres are optimally integrated, even the shorter ones. During the air spinning process, fibres that are too short are removed pneumatically.

However, this proportion is significantly lower than in a classic combing process.

Belairo yarns therefore offer the best conditions for lint-free towels. Thanks to the high rub resistance of the towels, hardly any fibres come loose from the fabric composite during washing. Fibre migration is zero with Belairo yarns.

If you compare towels made from ring yarn with towels made from Belairo yarns, you will notice that the surface appearance of Belairo towels is more even, their absorbency is higher, and their drying time is shorter. These properties result from the special Belairo yarn structure and are particularly popular with private and industrial consumers (Graph 1).

Swiss Review

Graph 1: Advantages of Belairo towels compared to ring yarn towels at a glance.

The hairiness of Belairo yarn is generally very low. In order to achieve comparable values for ring yarns, these must be combed. Due to the low hairiness of Belairo yarns, their tendency to pill is also considerably reduced. Colour contrasts or motif contours in the towels are thus retained even after long periods of use. The Belairo yarn structure also gives the towels a high degree of dimensional stability. They shrink hardly at all and do not warp, even after numerous washes. Belairo beach towels keep their shape better and are more resistant to washing than towels made from ring yarn (Graph 2).

It is not necessary to comb the Belairo yarns; carded yarns already deliver the best results for terry cloth fabrics. A sustainable process in terms of fibre utilisation, as significantly more fibres are used than with combed ring-spun yarns.

Belairo yarn – environmentally friendly and economical The production process of carded Belairo yarns differs from that of combed ring yarns, and this has a massive impact on spinning costs. Belairo yarns for towels can be spun at take-up speeds of up to 400 m/min. This corresponds to 18 times the productivity of a ring spinning machine. A special feature of Belairo yarn production is that there is an increase in quality with each increase in production speed. In contrast to conventional spinning processes, where increased productivity can be at the expense of yarn quality, the opposite is often true for Belairo yarns. The faster the Autoairo produces, the better the yarn quality.

Thanks to the enormously high productivity in Belairo yarn production, towel yarns can be produced up to 45% more cost-effectively. Savings can be made in terms of energy consumption,

Graph 2: Fabric quality of Belairo beach towels.

personnel requirements, space requirements and the associated costs of air-conditioning for manufacturing.

In order for the Belairo yarns to withstand the stresses of high production output on the weaving machine and to achieve optimum machine utilisation effects, they must meet minimum quality standards, particularly regarding strength, elongation, and thin places (Graph 3).

Due to their specific structure, Belairo yarns are slightly weaker and sometimes less elastic than combed ring yarns, but this additional strength of the ring yarns is not fully utilised during weaving. What matters is the minimum requirements for the weaving process. Belairo yarns exceed yarn strength requirements by almost 30% and yarn elongation requirements by more than 10%.

Yarn imperfections, in particular the number of thin places, are also relevant as they could conceal potential weak points that influence the efficiency of the weaving machines. Belairo yarns have 80% fewer thin places than the maximum values permitted in weaving mills. The low dust and linting tendency of Belairo yarns is also very advantageous, whether in terry cloth-

Graph 3: Yarn quality and quality requirements for the weaving process.

weaving or warp-knitting machines, which are often used for towels in hotels and hospitals. This extends the cleaning intervals on the weaving and warp knitting machines, even at high feed rates.

Belairo yarns and towelling - a perfect duo. The pile yarns that make up a highquality towel can be produced almost half as cost-effectively with Belairo yarn as with combed ring-spun yarns while at the same time producing a perfect towel with a life expectancy that is up to ten times longer than a towel made from ring-spun yarn (Graph 3).

Also, the environmental balance of Belairo terry cloth towelling is also positive. Chemical softeners are often used in the final finishing of towels made from ring yarns to make them pleasant to the touch to potential purchasers.

Chemical substances are however being scrutinised ever more critically by consumers. There is no need for softeners in the final finish, as Belairo yarns have an appealing feel without chemicals. In yarn dyeing, Belairo yarns require less dye and in weaving, less sizing is needed for the warp beams. The use of Belairo yarns reduces wastewater pollution and protects the environment.

Fabric quality of Belairo beach towels.

35

Swiss Review

‘Uster Fabriq Assistant – the whole story for quality info Automated data preparation saves time and ensures decision-making security The new Uster Fabriq Assistant is a central platform for automated processing, analyzing, and visualizing quality data from Uster fabric inspection systems. Its three value modules – AI Classification, Quality Reporting and Central Management – give fabric producers the whole story for quality, saving time and driving operational excellence.

Uster’s latest innovation in the field of fabric inspection is an online tool giving a user-friendly summary of quality performance data from every fabric roll inspected in the mill. A range of statistical analysis tools highlight key info through various charts, histograms or trend diagrams. With the new Uster Fabriq Assistant, there is no need to toil over manual data. It’s all automated, so decision-making is simpler and much faster for fabric manufacturers.

Classification and reporting tasks Fabriq Assistant introduces three value modules. AI Classification is at the heart of the system, delivering levels of accuracy and performance that human operators could never match. The Artificial Intelligence attaches codes to each image generated by the Uster Fabriq Vision products. Without this AI Classification, mill personnel would have to spend time and effort inserting codes to each defect at a PC, to carry out a data review. Artificial Intelligence means data classification is fully automated, so producers can save over 80% of the time taken by manual methods.

With Fabriq Assistant, old-fashioned manual data collection and analysis are consigned to history. Fabriq Assistant automatically gathers all the information from onnected Uster fabric inspection systems – and applies smart analysis principles to calculate the most meaningful results. The Quality Reporting value module lets managers focus on the most important decisions, based on the guaranteed accuracy of advanced technology.

36 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

Uster Fabriq Assistant – The central fabric quality platform

Benefits from synergies Fabriq Assistant unites all the data from AI Classification and Quality Reporting. Combining classified details of defects with smart analysis of inspection data gives producers a valuable advantage: Fabriq Assistant not only gives alerts of issues, it also goes a stage further by both describing and locating a problem. This is the knowledge required to enable continuous and systematic improvements to be made.

Combining data from AI classification and Quality Reporting unleashes the full power of the value modules. The real impact comes from meaningful data which is automatically analyzed.

“Using the synergies from AI classification and Quality Reporting maximizes the business value for all stakeholders in the production and the quality department,” says Michelle Salg, Product Manager Fabric Inspection at Uster Technologies.

Centralized efficiency Fabriq Assistant cuts down the unnecessary workload on managers, allowing them to focus on steering profitable production. The third value module, Central Management, makes this benefit clear, as all the required data is presented on a unified platform at the manager’s desk, in a real time-saving

benefit. It means there is no need to check for machine alarms or identify finished rolls. Fabric inspection info for all connected Uster systems is readily available at this central platform.

“We have customers who produce thousands of meters of fabric daily.

Imagine the difference the Central Management or Fabriq Assistant with its full capability makes for them,” says Salg.

“It’s not only about managing a large number of machines but also controlling the quality of the whole production.” The dashboard on the manager’s screen shows the number of defects, ongoing articles and orders, start and end time of rolls, and downtime, at a glance.

Indispensable assistant Data from fabric inspection builds a reliable picture, as a sound basis for decisions. Cutting-edge hardware can be seamlessly integrated into production – at line running speeds up to 1,000 meters per minute – for consistent and efficient defect detection. After that Uster Fabriq Assistant takes over.

Automation also allows users to customize their experience in a highly flexible way, to suit their own mill organization, thanks to the smart machine learning technology in Fabriq Assistant. For fabric producers it’s an indispensable route to greater efficiency and productivity. 

Swiss Review

Loepfe: Ibrahim Fibres Limited Successful Yarnmaster® Prisma Trial Ibrahim Fibres Limited Pakistan (IFL) has started a trial with the YarnMaster® PRISMA system to see if it can overcome the current challenges and solve an important task. Mr. Zafar Iqbal, General Manager of IFL, is entrusted with the responsible mission of increasing the yarn quality currently produced, especially regarding the remaining foreign matter in the yarn.

The condition applies that the machine efficiency must be maintained or improved. Loepfe gladly tackles this task with its clever yarn-clearing system PRISMA. The goal of the company is to always meet the dynamic needs of customers and stay competitive through technological advancements, automation, and ensuring product quality. However, in the past, false cutting during the winding process resulted in production inefficiencies and increased waste. This not only impacted operational costs but also led to dissatisfaction among

customers due to the compromised quality of the final product.

Contamination was another pressing challenge, with unwanted foreign particles affecting the integrity of the yarn. This issue not only jeopardized the quality of the product but also necessitated additional quality control measures, leading to increased production time and costs.

Advanced technology for efficient production As the PRISMA trial has now been going on for over 30 months, Mr. Zafar Iqbal gives his first statement: Mr. Zafar Iqbal, General Manager "In comparison to other solutions in IFL’s portfolio, PRISMA with latest software stands out due to its advanced technological features, efficiency, and seamless integration capabilities.”

PRISMA has measurably demonstrated that its unique F-sensor is capable of successfully and reliably

Mr. Zafar Iqbal, General Manager

eliminating the F-faults that previously remained in the yarn. The system shines with an above-average correct cut execution and the clever organic filtering method. These results allow the statement that the task set is fulfilled. Mr. Zafar Iqbal comments on this: “Loepfe's PRISMA, supported by cutting-edge technology and a dedicated service team, has proven to be a transformative solution for our yarn winding processes."

Ibrahim Fibres Limited

The Loepfe service team's exceptional responsiveness and availability have been consistently notable. Their regular on-site visits were demonstrating their dedication to serving clients effectively

Ibrahim Fibres Limited (IFL) located in Faisalabad Pakistan, is a forward-thinking textile company that prioritizes Industry 4.0 principles and employs the latest technologies to ensure the production of high-quality textile products. Specializing in Polyestercotton combed and Polyester-Viscose yarns with a count range of Ne. 6-60, suitable for both knitting and weaving. With a strategic presence in the industry, the company boasts an installed capacity of 240,192 spindles and a yarn production capacity of 78,400 tons per annum. IFL has established itself as a leading player by consistently delivering top-tier yarn to its customers.

37

Swiss Review

Modern solutions for efficiency and sustainability Latest wet processing technology from Benninger

FabricMaster – fast, versatile, and economic jet dyeing machine

Benninger is continuing to expand its world-leading offer to the textile wet processing sector, with recent innovations in fabric dyeing and singeing technology.

consumption levels. Furthermore, it ensures dramatically shorter process times and an excellent first-time-right rate. The robust and reliable system with its harmonic versatility ensures that

Benninger specializes in machinery and solutions for both continuous and discontinuous wet finishing of woven, knitted and technical textiles. Its heritage of 160 years is the foundation for ongoing progress, with today’s systems embracing sustainable production towards zero environmental impact for its global customer base.

Pioneering FabricMaster A game-changing solution in Benninger’s portfolio for discontinuous dyeing is the new FabricMaster, proven in practice to be the fastest, most versatile, and economic jet dyeing machine in the industry. It produces a wide range of fabrics with unmatched low water

38 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

SingeRay – the first choice to upgrade fabrics

customers can process today's and tomorrow’s fabrics and blends.

Benninger’s experience means it fully understands the challenges of the wet finishing industry, as reflected in its

Swiss Review development priorities for new machinery. Key factors are minimal consumption of water, steam, chemicals and dyestuff, to ensure right-first-time results with lowest waste.

Specifically, the company’s discontinuous dyeing technology has precise control of processes and chemical distribution (DDS, CDS, PDSD), setting new standards for shortened process times, and accuracy in maintaining the required batch sizes, weight and liquor ratio. The carbon footprint of the FabricMaster is designed to be the future industry benchmark for sustainability.

Foundation for uniform quality The latest Benninger fabric singeing machine, known as the SingeRay, lays the foundation for uniform quality to produce a perfectly dyed and finished fabric. The high-performance burner ensures a flame with high energy density over the complete width, for incomparable singeing effects. Its unique flame width setting allows finishers to work with even smaller fabric widths economically, saving energy. Thanks to the super-smart burner design, which also prevents deformation due to its 2x2 cooling system, it ensures longevity. The SingeRay is made in Germany and certified by the German Technical and Scientific Association for Gas and Water (DVGW) to the highest safety standards.

DyePad – CPB Knit

For knitted fabric processing, Benninger’s Knitline solutions are installed at more than 120 mills of major producers worldwide, demonstrating great standards of performance with highest quality results in demineralization and bleaching. Recent technical enhancements have made a significant contribution to reducing operating costs for users.

The full range of Benninger technology includes well-established solutions for all aspects of open-width

wet processing, as well as discontinuous fabric dyeing, underlining its position as a systems supplier in the forefront of the industry.

The duty of environmental responsibility in that role is one that the company fully acknowledges: “Benninger solutions always focus on resource efficiency, so textile finishing plants with Benninger machines installed can be assured of particularly low resource consumption and highest productivity,” says Schoeler. 

Trikoflex washing compartment

39

Swiss Review

Heberlein: ‘Stunning’ evenness in filament yarns Heberlein jet technology drives innovations in demanding technical applications Unique technology for creating advanced technical textiles with exquisite characteristics will be featured at the upcoming Techtextil in Germany.

Heberlein, the leading supplier of air interlacing and air texturing jets, plans to convince visitors to the event with critical components – such as the latest PolyJet-TG-3 – that can influence both yarn properties and processes.

Advances in high-performance yarns have produced versatile alternatives to traditional raw materials in a number of industries and applications. Customized filament yarns now meet specific needs in diverse sectors, such as automotive, aviation, maritime, medical, and construction. And the Swiss-made key components from Heberlein are at the forefront of these developments, bringing optimum new technology to the core of filament yarn innovation.

generation of jets impresses with an unmatched even and uniform interlacing density as well as with strong, reliable knots for high tenacity yarn (HT and HMLS). Heberlein’s latest PolyJet-TG-3 achieves more than 12 knots per meter with 1100f98dtex and 1670f98dtex. Yarn parameters of tensile strength, elongation, and elasticity show smaller variations, for ultimate quality benefits, as well as improved unwinding behaviour of the bobbins.

Typical Heberlein benefits come with all these components. High-performance air For producers of demanding technical interlacing jets for technical yarns offer a yarns, magnification of the yarn evenness unique quick-release system, so jet packs with a PolyJet-TG-3-HP405A/WO70 can be exchanged within seconds, with (TopAir) looks stunning. The new just a single 180° turn. They also feature a compact, spacesaving design and a roll bar to protect the ceramic PolyJet-TG-3-HP405A/WO70 (TopAir) – yarn evenness (magnified x1.25) surfaces.

PolyJet-TG-3 – new generation of spinning jet

Comparison of yarn evenness for PES dtex 1100f192 yarn

40 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

PolyJet-TG-3

AirSplicer-3 Flex

AirSplicers produce first-class splices for a wide range of applications for technical fibers where extreme strength characteristics are needed.

AirSplicer-3 Flex for high-strength technical fibers

Synthetic multifilament yarns, aramid, carbon, or glass can all be spliced with AirSplicer-3 Flex. The range covers from 500dtex up to 30,000dtex depending on the material. Flexibility results from its innovative width-adjustable design, ideal for technical and textile multifilament yarns. In one single device, the new splicer replaces two former units, namely AirSplicer 40-2 and 70-2.

Yarn splicers produce a tearresistant, homogeneous splice of material without knots. All they need is compressed air.

Heberlein's

Heberlein looks forward to meeting visitors at Techtextil Frankfurt in Hall 12.0 at booth B01, where any questions about jets and splicers will be welcome.

Heberlein experts will be especially keen to explain the benefits of the unmatched yarn evenness achieved by the new generation of spinning jets.

Archroma special report Mark Garrett, Group CEO, Archroma Management GmbH visits Pakistan Message from Mr. Mujtaba Rahim, President & CEO, Archroma Pakistan Limited Archroma Pakistan honored in coveted Pakistan Stock Exchange (PSX) Awards 2023 Highlights Archroma is a global, diversified provider of specialty chemicals Archroma and Artistic Milliners leverage eco-advanced sulfur black dyestuff to rewrite the future of denim Grand happenings at Archroma Accolades and Accreditations Occupational Safety and Health Wastewater Management World Environment Day at Jamshoro Educational Programs

1886

1995 to 1997

2013 to 2023

41

Mark Garrett; Group Chief Executive Officer and President & CEO of Textile Effects Division

Mark Garrett, Archroma Group CEO, visits Pakistan Archroma is a global, diversified leader of dyes and specialty chemicals with operations in more than 40 countries and 34 production sites worldwide.

With the industry’s broadest product portfolio, they serve many of the world’s top brands in textiles, packaging, paper, paints, and coatings. A team of more than 4,500 passionate professionals offers industry-leading expertise in manufacturing, research & technology, operations, technical customer support, and sustainability.

Mark Garrett, CEO of Archroma Group says, “The Archroma team is diverse, transnational, and entirely united in one aim: to lead industry towards a more sustainable future for customers, markets, and people. We have pursued

42

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

this singular goal for a decade through consolidation, innovation, and collaboration.”

Mr. Mark Garrett, Group CEO of Archroma was accorded a warm welcome on his erstwhile visit. His leadership and vision have undoubtedly steered Archroma to new heights of success.

PTJ Team conducted an exclusive interview with Mr. Mark Garrett during this visit. We are delighted to pen it for our readers.

What are your impressions about Pakistan in general and Archroma Pakistan in particular?

Archroma has significant operations in Pakistan, including world-class manufacturing plants, research and testing facilities, and a training academy, as well as strong relationships with the textile and

apparel industry here. I have been very impressed by the team’s commitment to collaboration and excellence. There is a strong sense of purpose and belonging and a clear focus on understanding customers and creating value for them. Our people here take immense pride in their work and their camaraderie is a key factor in our success.

My impression of Pakistan is also very positive. I believe that the dedication I have witnessed at Archroma is indicative of the region’s potential for growth.

Globally, the textile and apparel industry is facing many challenges – from rising costs to shifting consumer trends and more stringent environmental regulations.

But when companies like Archroma Pakistan invest in their people to foster community amid transformation, we can help bring about positive change.

Interview Please tell us about how you are transforming Archroma for the future.

Archroma celebrated its tenth anniversary last year and marked a milestone in the company’s development with the acquisition of the Textile Effects division of Huntsman Corporation. This merger allowed us to combine the strengths and expertise of two industry leaders to create a powerhouse in the specialty chemicals and dyes sector, harnessing synergy to benefit our customers, employees, and the industry as a whole.

Archroma, which originated from Clariant's textile, paper, and emulsions businesses, has a rich history dating back to 1886. We are a global leader in specialty chemicals, with a strong focus on sustainability and innovation. This commitment is evident in our "Zero Discharge" initiative and other sustainability projects at Jamshoro, Landhi and our other plants around the world.

Huntsman’s Textile Effects has long been known as a sustainability-focused industry innovator, with a heritage that dates back to 1758.

As a merged company, we now have the industry’s most extensive portfolio of products and technologies, ranging from dyes and chemicals to digital inks, end-toend tailored solutions, and more. With an expanded global footprint and industryleading manufacturing and research capabilities, our capabilities extend across the entire textile value chain, enabling us to provide our customers with top-quality products and services.

Archroma today is driven by a vision of delivering innovation, sustainability, and value to the textile industry. Our sustainable solutions, digital advancements, and close partnerships with customers position us as a dynamic and forwardthinking organization in the specialty chemicals and textile sectors. We are proud of our heritage and excited about the future as we continue to lead the way in meeting the ever-evolving needs of our customers and the industry.

Whether it is denim, sportswear, swimwear or formal wear, we offer products that enhance color, performance, and sustainability. We also serve the home and hospitality markets with innovative solutions for home textiles, upholstery, carpets, bedding, and other applications. Our products help enhance color vibrancy and resistance to external factors.

As demand for technical textiles grows in sectors like healthcare, construction, and protective clothing, we provide solutions that enhance the performance, durability, and safety of these materials.

The automotive industry is another important sector that demands high quality and sustainable solutions for interior and exterior materials. As you can see, our products and solutions have diverse applications in industries beyond key markets to help our customers extend their capabilities and market share.

Archroma has a well-established and strong manufacturing base in Pakistan.

What shall be the position of Archroma Pakistan in the new global setup?

What key markets does Archroma serve?

Pakistan is an essential manufacturing hub and regional gateway for Archroma that helps us diversify our operational and market effectiveness on a global scale.

Our manufacturing base here plays a pivotal role in the domestic market and also serves our growing Asian markets.

Archroma serves a wide range of markets, with textile and apparel as a primary market where we provide innovative solutions to manufacturers.

Crucially, our strong local presence allows for collaboration and innovation, and for tailoring solutions to meet the specific needs of these regions. Archroma

Pakistan's commitment to sustainability and compliance, along with its supply chain efficiency, contributes to our global competitiveness too.

We are very proud to have been named a Top 25 Company by the Pakistan Stock Exchange in 20 out of the past 21 years. This reflects our commitment to Pakistan and to the highest levels of financial management and environmental, social and governance performance.

How committed is Archroma to Research and Technology and innovations. What role will Archroma Pakistan's Center of Excellence play in these developments?

We recognize that innovation is a key driver for addressing industry challenges, enhancing sustainability, and meeting customer needs – and we are deeply committed to fostering innovation and advancing Research and Technology (R&T). As a hub for innovation and sustainability research, Archroma Pakistan's Center of Excellence is integral to this commitment. Archroma Pakistan actively invests in R&T, working to create cuttingedge products and processes. These innovations range from sustainable dyes and chemicals to digital solutions that optimize production and reduce environmental impacts.

The Center of Excellence in Pakistan is an essential part of Archroma's global R&T network. It collaborates with multiple Archroma R&T centers worldwide to accelerate the development of sustainable and high-performance products. This collaborative approach allows Archroma to

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Interview harness the expertise of our diverse teams, facilitating breakthroughs in textile and specialty chemicals and paper solutions. By combining the regional insights and expertise of Archroma Pakistan's Center of Excellence with the global network's resources, we can rapidly respond to market needs and environmental challenges. The center acts as an innovation catalyst, driving our mission to lead in sustainability and innovation, both locally and on a global scale. It exemplifies Archroma's commitment to research, technology, and innovation.

In the present scenario, what is the anticipated contribution of Archroma towards meeting growing environmental challenges and climate change, and what will be the role of Archroma globally to overcome current and future challenges being faced by the textile industry?

Archroma is committed to addressing environmental challenges and climate change in the industry. We aim to play a pivotal role in achieving a more sustainable and planet-conscious future. To this end, we continuously develop innovative solutions that enhance the environmental footprint of our products and processes while helping our mill customers remain competitive and deliver high-value endarticles that perform as required. Our portfolio of advanced chemical and dye technologies is designed to minimize water and energy consumption, improve resource efficiency and plant productivity, and enhance end-article performance and longevity. Our global initiatives focus on promoting responsible manufacturing practices, reducing waste and emissions, and fostering a circular economy.

For example, we recently launched a new suite of powerful end-to-end solutions, Super Systems+, that combine fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects to help brands mills positively impact their economic and environmental sustainability.

Archroma recognizes that combating environmental challenges and addressing climate change requires collaboration and innovation. As part of our global efforts, we actively engage with partners across the textile industry, including manufacturers, brands, and suppliers, to promote sustainable practices and share knowl-

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edge. We foster transparency and a culture of responsible chemistry. Our aim is to inspire the entire textile value chain to adopt sustainable approaches and reduce environmental impact. Furthermore, we continue to invest in research and development to discover new, environmentfriendly solutions that can revolutionize the industry and drive it towards a more sustainable future.

We would like to hear about Anilinefree Indigo production at Jamshoro. We understand that it is a unique production plant in the Archroma world. How do you see this within the current Archroma setup?

This is indeed a unique and groundbreaking facility within Archroma, aligning perfectly with our commitment to sustainable practices and responsible manufacturing. The elimination of aniline, a substance traditionally used in indigo dye production, is a significant step forward in enhancing the sustainability and safety of denim processing in Pakistan and around the world.

Jamshoro was chosen for aniline-free indigo production because it such an advanced plant with a great track record in innovation and ecofriendly solutions. It is was the first Zero Liquid Discharge plant in the Archroma world, for example.

This pioneering plant is not only a technological marvel but also a testament to Archroma's vision of creating products that are both planet-friendly and highperforming.

Our aniline-free indigo production plant at Jamshoro is a strategic asset within Archroma. It also reinforces our position as a global leader in sustainable

chemistry and allows us to better meet the evolving needs of our customers and the industry at large.

Please share your comments on the Sustainable Effluent Treatment plant at Jamshoro.

The establishment of a Sustainable Effluent Treatment (SET) plant at Jamshoro is a significant milestone for Archroma and a testament to our unwavering commitment to responsible environmental practices. The plant is based on the Zero Liquid Discharge principle, ensuring that no liquid waste is discharged into the environment, thereby minimizing the ecological footprint of our operations.

The SET plant in Jamshoro demonstrates our proactive efforts to address the environmental challenges associated with industrial processes. Through this system, we are not only complying with stringent environmental regulations but also going above and beyond to reduce our water footprint and give back to our local community by providing clean drinking water.

The plant supplies approximately 13,000 gallons of clean water to our neighbors each day, free of charge.

This initiative at Jamshoro reflects Archroma's broader commitment to sustainability and innovation. By treating and reusing wastewater effectively, we are contributing to the conservation of this precious resource and helping to combat water scarcity issues that plague many regions of the world. Moreover, it sets an example for the entire industry by showcasing that sustainable practices can be integrated into manufacturing processes without compromising productivity or product quality.

Interview Where do you see Archroma in the next 5 to 10 years in the global chemicals business?

I see Archroma solidifying its position as a global leader in the chemical industry.

We will maintain our strong commitment to sustainability and continue to set new standards for eco-friendly products and processes. Our collaborations with existing and new industry partners and stakeholders will ground us as we promote sustainable practices to make a meaningful impact in key industries and regions.

Archroma's dedication to research and technology will result in ongoing product advancements, potentially including breakthroughs in areas like bio-based chemicals, nanotechnology, and digital solutions. I expect us to play a vital role in advancing the circular economy, with a focus on efficient recycling, waste reduction, and cradle-to-cradle principles.

Regulatory compliance and environmental responsibility will remain at the core of the company's operations, adapting to evolving regulations and anticipating more stringent sustainability and safety standards for the years ahead.

Digital technologies and data-driven solutions will also continue to be important in our operations, enabling tailored, efficient, and sustainable offerings for our customers.

Archroma will prioritize people development by nurturing talent, fostering a culture of innovation, and promoting diversity and inclusion. We will need to remain agile and adaptable to seize new opportunities in an ever-changing global landscape.

Mr. Mujtaba Rahim, Mr. Mark Garrett, and Mr. Naveed Kamil

Overall, Archroma's future will be marked by a commitment to enhancing the world through sustainable practices and innovation. We touch and color people’s lives every day, everywhere and this brings a huge responsibility to lead the textile and apparel industry towards a more sustainable and prosperous tomorrow.

What are your expectations regarding global apparel and textiles business in 2024? Where do you see Pakistan positioned in the global textile business of Archroma?

Against a backdrop of heightened environmental awareness and global economic and geopolitical instability, the apparel and textiles business will continue to evolve in 2024 in response to market trends. Sustainability, innovation, and quality will remain pivotal drivers of success in the industry. Pakistan is renowned for its strong textile manufacturing base, and Archroma has a well-established presence here. We anticipate that

Archroma Pakistan will play a vital role in our global operations by serving as a hub for innovation, manufacturing, and sustainability, especially helping customers reduce the environmental footprint of textile production while enhancing product quality.

Mr. Garret, thank you for valuable time, this has been a fascinating interview and I know our readers will learn a lot from this. Do you have any message for our readers?

Archroma remains deeply committed to Pakistan and to our customers and partners here. We firmly believe that economic and environmental sustainability can and must go hand in hand for brands and mills to thrive today. As the world moves towards more circular business models, Pakistan has the opportunity to embrace cleaner and more innovative ways of working and open up new markets as a textile and apparel leader. 

Mr. Mark Garrett and Prof. Dr. Taha Hussain Ali, Vice Chancellor, Mehran University of Engineering & Technology exchanging Memorandum of Understanding documents

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Message from Mr. Mujtaba Rahim, President & CEO, Archroma Pakistan Limited The year was filled with a series of progressive activities that led to strengthening of Archroma in the industrial arena.

Our foremost achievement was the smooth integration of Huntsman Textile Eects into the folds of Archroma in March 2023. Indeed, this was a long-awaited goal which was achieved with exemplary perfection. Archroma has now a wide range of product lines that oer end to end solutions for textile Industry.

We completed ten eventful years of existence this year. Employees took delight in celebrating the events with passion and fervor. Our day of entering the second decade started with a sumptuous meet-at-breakfast delicacies and anniversary cake.

Group CEO, Mr. Mark Garrett visited Archroma Pakistan and was delighted to meet our highly motivated diverse teams.

Our warmth and ideological commitment to make Archroma an industrial icon highly impressed him. He visited all sites i.e Archroma Center of Excellence, Landhi and Jamshoro and enjoyed the diversity of people and culture. We held a Poster Competition amongst the students of TCF Schools neighboring our Korangi and Landhi sites. Children made impressive posters on Climate Change, environment and Earth Day. Mark gave away prizes and gis to the participating students.

The Foreign Minister of Switzerland, H.E Mr. Ignazio Cassis visited Archroma Center of Excellence along with three Members of Swiss Parliament and other high-level oicials of the Swiss Government including the Ambassador of Switzerland, H.E. Georg Steiner. It was, indeed, a great honor for us to welcome the dignitaries. We presented the globally acclaimed ‘Zero Liquid Discharge Sustainable Eluent Treatment Plant’ and "Aniline-free* Indigo" produced at Jamshoro, as our best-in-class sustainable practices in the industry. Mr. Cassis inaugurated the company’s "Wall of Pride",

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an impressive collection of recognitions, accolades and honors earned by Archroma in Pakistan since the company’s inception in October 2013 Our hallmark of maintaining Safety, Health & Well-being and Compliance continued with all honors. Landhi site, Karachi celebrated 10 years of "No Lost Time Injuries" which incidentally coincided well with the 10th Anniversary of Archroma.

Continuous emphasis on training and train- Mr. Mujtaba Rahim President and CEO, Archroma Pakistan Ltd. highly valuable in their future careers in ing, safety drills, firefighting and first aid textiles. The headcount of our Interns has exercises enable us to maintain our good already crossed 8000 counts. record.

Sustainable Eluent Treatment (SET) At the corporate level, Archroma Plant is providing clean water to the Pakistan has been listed amongst top 25 neighborhood @13000 gallons per day. best performing companies in Pakistan.

Under Responsible Care® Initiative we With this, we have now completed two look aer the needs of community. decades of being a lead performer at the Pakistan Stock Exchange. The accolade itself is commemorative of our high standards being meticulously followed. The list of our other honors is quite impressive too.

SET plant has set an example for the industry and our good work Is being followed by other organizations.

Ground-breaking of Aniline-free Indigo plant expansion has been performed at Jamshoro site. It illustrates that the denim industry is moving towards environment friendly solutions.

It is heartening to note the advancements being made in packaging & paper, coating, adhesives & sealant markets. Our teams reach out and support customers with dedication. With the growth in economy, we anticipate a boost in the two segments.

Archroma Center of Excellence continues to serve our partners with dedication., providing sustainable solutions to meet growing needs of the industry. As a service provider, the Center of Excellence also caters to students and mill technicians by providing hands-on training in testing and applications which will be

I would like to express my sincere gratitude to our partners, associates and team members for their unstinted support. With continued reinforcement of our portfolio, Archroma Pakistan is transforming the industry to more sustainable future and further strengthening its leadership position. 

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Archroma Pakistan honored in coveted PSX awards

Archroma Pakistan has been named a winner in the much-anticipated Pakistan Stock Exchange (PSX) Top 25 Companies Awards for 2022.

This completes two decades of excellent performance by Archroma Pakistan, which has won the coveted award 20 times in the past 21 years.

The award was presented by the Prime Minister of Pakistan, Mr. Anwaarul-Haq Kakar, to Archroma Pakistan CEO, Mr. Mujtaba Rahim, before an audience of dignitaries, government officials and the business community.

The PSX Top 25 Companies Awards recognizes meticulous financial management and regulatory compliance, as well

as excellence in environmental, social and governance (ESG) performance, diversity and inclusion, and corporate governance.

It is among the highest accolades offered in the Pakistan business community.

“The Awards criteria have evolved over time to align with the sustainable and ethical business practices that mark out best performing companies today. We are honored to receive this award once again and pledge to continue to enhance every aspect of our operations in order to keep on delivering value with a positive impact,” Mr. Rahim said. “We are also truly proud of our team which made this great achievement possible for Archroma.

Their collective dedication and commitment have helped drive our business forward to deliver growth and success.”

Earlier in the year, Archroma Pakistan was recognized in the PSX in the Best Corporate Report Awards 2022, winning a Certificate of Merit for the third time. 

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2023 Highlights Archroma completes acquisition of the Textile Effects business from Huntsman Corporation Archroma announced the closing of the acquisition of the Textile Effects business from Huntsman Corporation.

The acquisition brings together two highly complementary organizations with strong cultures of innovation and a shared commitment to inspire advancements in the textile industry.

The combined company will continue to lead the textile industry in sustainability, innovation, and performance offering fashion brands, automotive,

technical and home textiles the best-inclass cost performance whilst respecting natural resources and the planet. Both companies have been recognized by the industry and are each recipient of multiple awards for supplying sustainable systems and solutions in dyes and chemicals that are better for consumers and the planet.

FiberColors® by Archroma FiberColors® is a new way of creating dyes from pre-and post-consumer textile waste that would otherwise be destined to landfill.

With this technology, Archroma upcycles textile waste into gorgeous colors. The colors are synthesized from a minimum content of 50% waste-based raw material.

With FiberColors®, brands will be able to create collections cleanly, supporting the circular economy, and respecting the environment.

Together we can close the loop and break the cycle of waste!

Textil Santanderina launches authentic black denim collection based on Archroma’s ecoadvanced DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK sulfur dyestuff.

health, ecosystems and resources compared to standard Sulfur

Based on cutting-edge synthesis technology developed by Archroma,DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK liq delivers an overall impact reduction to 57%*, measuring its effect on human

The new DIRESUL® dyestuff, when adopted with the full

Black 1 liquid. Unlike traditional synthesis processes, it does not produce any ammonia, sodium salts waste or liquid effluents, and water consumption in the synthesis process is reduced by 73% for massive savings.

Archroma coloration system, delivers a new black color with on-tone wash-down effect and cleaner effluent at the mill.

Archroma brings the entire portfolio of 5,760 Archroma Color Atlas colors to swatchbook, the industry leading platform for material digitalization and sourcing.

The new partnership provides fashion, apparel and textile designers and manufacturers with an elevated standard for color accuracy that meets the needs of today’s increasingly technologydriven and integrated supply chain.

This will help the textile and fashion community to improve sustainability, whilst lowering costs and shortening turnaround times.

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Archroma is a global, diversified provider of specialty chemicals Archroma is a global, diversified provider of specialty chemicals serving the textiles, packaging, paper, coatings, adhesives, and sealants markets.

Headquartered in Pratteln, Switzerland, with a diverse team of more than 4500 employees located in 41 countries and over 30 production sites.

Operating in over 100 countries, Archroma is touching and coloring people’s lives every day, everywhere.

Archroma is passionate about delivering innovative, market-leading solutions, respecting the planet, and enhancing people’s lives. Committed to the principles of The Archroma Way – an approach reflected in our innovations and customer focus, their world-class quality standards and high service levels, and the cost-effcient, resource-saving solutions offer to help lead the industry toward a more sustainable future.

The History Archroma’s heritage dates back to 1886, when textile dye-maker Kern & Sandoz was founded in Basel. More than a century later, in 1995, the company spun off Clariant, which acquired the specialty chemicals business of Hoechst in 1997. Clariant then sold its textile chemicals, paper specialties, and emulsion businesses to SK Capital in September 2013 with the new brand Archroma.

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Archroma and Artistic Milliners leverage eco-advanced sulfur black dyestuff to rewrite the future of denim International denim manufacturing powerhouse Artistic Milliners and Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, are collaborating to rewrite the future of denim.

Leveraging Archroma’s breakthrough DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK dyestuff, the partners are promoting more eco-advanced sulfur black dyeing for denim with a variety of washdown effects and reduced environmental impact.

DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK delivers outstanding resource savings, using less water and energy and producing less CO2 during dye synthesis. Furthermore, it offers unique shade and washdown behavior compared to standard black dyes to consistently create eye-catching aesthetics, especially on dark black shades with no bronzing effect. It is also laserfriendly.

Artistic Milliners launched a capsule collection based on the new DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK technology at Kingpins Amsterdam in October, named EVO BLACK, winning a strong positive response from global brands. It is now working closely with a research and innovation team from Archroma, its technology partner of many decades, to expand its use of the new black coloration system in combination with other colors and performance effects.

“With decades of denim innovation, Artistic Milliners continues to push the envelope to lower the environmental

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impact of clothing for brands and consumers,” Omer Ahmed, Managing Director, Artistic Milliners, said. “We are enthusiastic about promoting the DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK technology with our partner Archroma as a way to help our industry move towards more eco forward denim production that nurtures people and the planet.”

“Archroma is proud to work with market leaders like Artistic Milliners to prove that denim production can have minimal environmental impact and economically viable while creating value for brands through collections that consumers crave,” Umberto De Vita, Director, Denim Market Segment,

Archroma Textile Effects, added. “DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK is just the latest in a long series of Archroma-driven innovations that enhance people’s lives and respect the planet.”

Archroma has led the evolution of sulfur dyeing since 1980, when it introduced its low- sulfide DIRESUL® RDT range which include breakthroughs like the eco-advanced Pad-Ox dyeing process, and the innovative plant-based EarthColors® sulfur dyestuffs range.

DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK took home the honorary award for Innovation – Dyes at the 2023 Just Style Excellence Awards.

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Grand happenings at Archroma Welcome to Archroma family

be highly complementary, oering fashion brands and the

In February 2023, Archroma acquired Huntsman Textile Eects. With this, we brought together two global leaders to lead our industry towards a more sustainable future for our customers and markets.

they expect, whilst respecting natural resources and the

Huntsman Textile Eects acquisition was first announced in August 2022. The global business of Huntsman Textile Eects comprises approximately 2,300 employees in 33 countries and 10 production sites globally. Combined product portfolios will

global textile industry the high performance and innovation planet.

This new structure was integrated globally as well as locally on 6th March 2023. New colleagues were given a rousing welcome at Archroma Centre of Excellence. Our new team members felt happy by cutting the welcome cake and souvenirs presented to them by the management.

Mr. Muhammad Usman from Huntsman Textile Eects, cutting the cake

Swiss Ambassador visits Archroma Pakistan The team of Archroma Pakistan welcomed His Excellency Mr. Georg Steiner, Ambassador of Switzerland to Pakistan on 6th June 2023. A well-structured Archroma briefing was given to him. He showed deep interest in the innovative solutions oered by Archroma and the role being played towards sustainable practices.

Archroma team with Mr. Georg Steiner, Ambassador of Switzerland

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Special Report Swiss Foreign Minister visits Archroma Center of Excellence The Foreign Minister of Switzerland, H.E Mr. Ignazio Cassis alongwith high-level delegation of Swiss Parliamentarians & Government oicals visited Archroma Center of Excellence at Karachi on 9th July 2023. The Foreign Minister and CEO Archroma Pakistan, Mujtaba Rahim inaugurated "Archroma Wall of Pride" that displays our accolades, recognitions & awards. The delegation toured three storied Research &Technology, Application, Analytical Labs & Training Academy at the Center of Excellence. The delegation was given detailed briefing on best sustainable practices relating to Aniline-Free* Indigo and Zero Liquid Discharge Sustainable Eluent Treatment Plant at Jamshoro site by Mr. Mujtaba.

Archroma team with H.E. Mr. Ignazio Cassis at “Archroma Wall of Pride"

H.E. Mr. Ignazio Cassis and Mr. Mujtaba Rahim inaugurating "Archroma Wall of Pride"

Members of high level Swiss delegation at Archroma Wall of Pride

Swiss Global Enterprise (S-GE) heads visit Swiss Global Enterprise (S-GE) are partners of Swiss Business Council. Their lead team visited Karachi to meet the Swiss Business Community in Karachi. Mr. Beat Ineichen, ex.

Sr. Consultant South Asia, Oceania, and Project Head of Medical Technology who was retiring from his position in SGE introduced his successor Mr. Suhail el Obaid to Archroma team on 12th May 2023. Mr. Suhail would be responsible for Pakistan, Middle East and Afghanistan. Their visit was mainly for orientation of Karachi and business outlook of Pakistan. A detailed presentation was given on the role of Archroma in the corporate sector.

Presentation and discussion in progress

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Swiss Business Council & Swiss Global Enterprise officials with Archroma team

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Accolades and Accreditations Decade of corporate excellence Archroma Pakistan entered second decade of consecutively winning Corporate Excellence Award - Chemical Sector from Management Association of Pakistan for the 12th time. The Award is a recognition of Good Management Practices which include a vast section of polices and procedures in finance, compliance, human resources and corporate social responsibility. 

Mr. Irfan Chawala, Director Archroma receiving the Award from Mr. Younus Dagha

Best corporate report certificate In recognition of exemplary corporate and financial reporting, consecutively for the 3rd year, the Annual Report of Archroma Pakistan received Certificate of Appreciation in a competition held by ICAP and ICMAP. The contest is organized to rate the quality of information and layout of Annual Reports.

Mr. Irfan Chawala, Director Archroma receiving the best corporate report certificate from Mr. Ehsan Malik, CEO, Pakistan Business Council

Employer of the year – Archroma Pakistan awarded recognition shield For the 6th time in a row, Archroma Pakistan received accolade as "Employer of the Year" from Employers Federation of Pakistan. The recognition was earned in the Multinational Category for the year 2022. Ms. Shahana Kaukab, Manager Communication, receiving Recognition Shield from Mr. Sajid Hussain Turi, Federal Minister of Labour

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Special Report Archroma Pakistan amongst top ten organizations with best practices on women empowerment A nationwide survey of 250 companies was conducted in Aug-Sept for research analysis on women empowerment by Employers Federation of Pakistan in collaboration with International Labor Organization.

Archroma Pakistan was selected amongst top 10 companies with best practices on women empowerment.

Ms. Iffat Zahra, Head of Technical Applications receiving Recognition Shield from Mr. Ismail Suttar, President Employers Federation of Pakistan

We were awarded a Recognition Shield at the Conference on Women Empowerment. Our good practices will be used as case study on thesecond phase to share with other businesses as benchmark.

Archroma Pakistan wins fire safety award National Forum for Environment & Health declared Archroma Pakistan winner of Fire Safety Award for 2022.

The award is a recognition of our regular fire drills and safety training at Jamshoro and Landhi sites. Mr. Abdul Salam, Head of SHE receiving Award from Mr. Kamran Khan Tessori, Governor of Sindh

Archroma Pakistan wins gold award for skills development A great day for our team as Employers Federation of Pakistan recognized our efforts towards Skills Development by conferring Gold Award in Manufacturing Sector. ILO officials were also present on the occasion along with officials from Ministry of Labour & Manpower Development, Government of Sindh.

Mr. Qasim Raza, Manager H.R. receiving award from International Labour Organization Officials.

Living The Global Compact Best Practices Sustainability Award Archroma is amongst the 20 founding signatories of Global Compact rolled out to the corporate world in December 2005 by Employers Federation of Pakistan. Its ten complying principles relate to Human rights, Labour, Environment and Anti-Corruption. Within Archroma, we observe all principles with full sanctity and discipline.

We won 3rd position in a nationwide competition on best practices of UN SDGs & Global Compact principles. 

Ms. Shahana Kaukab received the award from Mr. Mike Nithavrianakis, British Deputy Commissioner, Karachi.

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Occupational Safety and Health

A celebration was held at the visit of Group CEO Mark Garrett. The team happily cut the 10th Anniversary Cake amidst applause.

This topic refers to Archroma's internal safety focus, management and performance. Chemical manufacturing is a specialized process involving the handling and storage of large volumes of chemical substances of varying hazardous natures, synthesis processes requiring complex machinery oen using high temperatures and pressure, and waste streams that require particular treatment before being able to be discharges back into the environment.

Safety, Health and Environment (SHE) Manager. Individual goals are set for each site. There are three safety pillars: prevention of incidents, training and safety audits.

Jamshoro and Landhi sites and both sites

The year 2023 continued to remain "Accident Free". One Million Safe Working hours have been feted at

Landhi site made another record of com-

are closing the gap towards the Two Million Safe Working hours mark.

In the meantime in September 2023, pleting ten years of "No Lost Time Injuries (LTI).

Safety is therefore our first and foremost priority in every step of the manufacturing process aiming to protect our people, our communities, and the environment. Archroma operates according to the principle that all employees and partners of Archroma are collectively responsible for safety. The company has developed 12 “Life Saving” rules, and each employee is trained on these rules and required to sign a written commitment to ensure they are followed.

Each Archroma location has a Safety and Environment Officer (SEO), who reports on a monthly basis to the global

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Wastewater Management Water discharge into open water courses is an important environmental topic. It is a basic requirement that any manufacturing industry should discharge water back into the ecosystem without additional load. Therefore, an effective effluent treatment is key to all stakeholders.

We are proud to highlight the positive influence of our sustainable systems on our downstream customers’ wastewater management.

All our production plants have, or have access to, wastewater treatment facilities that typically use physical/chemical and biological treatment processes. All discharged wastewater is in full compli-

ance with the relevant regulatory parameters as stipulated by local environmental authorities.

During the reporting period, Archroma discharged a total of 6.53 million m3 of water. A total of 86% of this volume was discharged to surface water, after suitable treatment and in compliance with local regulations. The remainder was primarily discharged to third-party effluent treatment sites for further processing before being discharged to surface water.

The total discharge represents 87% of total incoming water.

There were no incidents of significant spills during the reporting period. There were no cases of any water bodies/habitats significantly affected by water discharges and/or runoff during the reporting period.

Water supply to communities from Sustainable Effluent Treatment Plant The Archroma Sustainable Effluent Treatment (SET) facility at the site in Jamshoro (Pakistan) allows treatment based on zero liquid discharge, fulfilling Pakistan’s very stringent National Environmental Quality Standards (NEQS) requirements. The aim was to improve

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the drinking water supply in the nearby districts and enable the members of the local communities to collect clean water free of charge.

The neighborhood benefits greatly from the SET plant as approximately 13,000 gallons of clean drinking water

are provided on a daily basis. The neighborhood community relies on clean water from the plant, and everyday a lot of people collect water in containers. The supply of clean water to communities is a major element of our corporate social responsibility approach.

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World Environment Day at Jamshoro Jamshoro site organized a seminar with Sindh Environment Protection Agency (SEPA) and Liaquat University of Jamshoro. Qazi Naeemuddin, Head of Site Operations, briefed the participants on the importance of this day. Tree plantation was done in the neighborhood park. Students and faculty members actively participated.

Educational Programs Skills development is also our main area of interest. At Archroma Center of Excellence at Korangi, Karachi educational programs run throughout the year for students in textiles. Tailor-made programs are designed for technical staff of mills based on their specific needs.

Archroma Pakistan holds poster competition between TCF school students School children made some very exceptional poster designs highlighting “environment”. The poster competition was held between two Citizens Foundation Schools from the site neighborhood of Landhi & Korangi. Our visiting Group CEO, Mark Garrett interacted closely with the students and gave away prizes to the winners on 3rd October during his visit to Landhi site. Children were delighted to present their poster themes to Mark.

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Special Report

Al Ameen Trading Corporation and Archroma celebrate 75 years of partnership together Al Ameen Trading Corporation is one of the most respected names in the textile machinery and chemicals business in Pakistan. Following pages recap the 75 year journey of Al Ameen and Archroma management the linkages of business development in the formative years of Sandoz, Clariant and now Archroma. to high-quality standards including meticulous selection of yarn and the use of vat dyes to achieve highest fastnesses. Despite the challenges posed by the Late K. Ahmed Late K.M. Hussain K. Jarrar aftermath of World War II in 1946, including Sons of Dyer & Weavers shortages of yarn and other essential The genesis of Al Ameen Trading inputs, the enterprise had Corporation began in 1920s as a small garnered acclaim for yarn dye house founded by Mr. Ayub producing and exporting Hashim Khatri (late) and later joined by premium multi-colored his cousin Ismail Khatri (late). Originating woven bedspreads and from the semi-desert region of Kutch, towels. where opportunities were scarce, they In the backdrop of the journeyed to the lush southern regions to impending partition of the Mangalore and Calicut in search of better Sub- Continent in 1947, prospects. Their integrity, expertise, and Mr. K.M. Hussain diligent efforts laid the groundwork for a relocated to Karachi which modest enterprise which was further later became part of developed by the second generation, Pakistan. Leaving behind comprised of the brothers Mr. K. Ahmed the well- established (handling finance) and Mr. K.M. Hussain business, sought to settle and explore (overseeing production and sales). With new opportunities in his adopted the integration of jacquard hand looms, homeland. Subsequently, his elder they transformed their operations into a brother Mr. K. Ahmed and family also composite unit, manufacturing bed migrated to Pakistan. He established M/s. sheets, kitchen towels, and table covers.

Al Ameen Trading Corporation in Under the banner of M/s Paramount Pakistan, as trading platform to textile weaving the business flourished due to factories initially with sundry items transparent practices and a commitment transitioning to engineering parts,

eventually forging partnerships with European plant suppliers.

In 1948 a new chapter unfolds when Sandoz Limited, based in Basle, sought to establish a presence in the newly formed country of Pakistan, amidst competition from established giants like ICI, CIBA (famous for Binaca toothpaste), GEIGY (known for Tinopal detergent), and IG Farben (later split into Bayer, Hoechst,

and BASF). Recognizing the combination of integrity, competence, and practical experience in weaving and dyeing embodied by K.M. Hussain, they forged a partnership. Within a decade, Sandoz and Al Ameen emerged as leaders in segments such as Direct dyes, Acid/Chrome for woolen apparel/carpet industry, and textile chemicals.

A visit report dating back to 1949 from archives, depicting Mr. Hussain’s dedication and the will to teach the art of dyeing to customers and technicians: Factory has eight looms out of which six are working and using 2/20 yarn, manufacturing Towels and Chaddars.

The owner is desirous of doing his own bleachings and dyeing but as nobody knows the methods of applications of dyes, he asked for a practical demonstration. Mr. Hussain agreed and dyed a 1% shade of B Brown NR in 1 bundle, and bleached an equal quantity of yarn in the presence of the staff and the proprietor. I accompanied Mr. Husain, the demonstration took 3 1/2 hrs from5pm to 8.30 pm. The owner was however pleased.

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Special Report He managed to make inroads in nontextile segments like leather, soap, ink & paint industries.

Hussain's technical knowhow tremendously.

Machinery Sales and Engineering department With the rapid expansion of the country's industrial base, the machinery and engineering sales department became an equally important part of the company.

Mr. Hussain's desire to expand the department beyond the traditional spare parts business had a breakthrough with the sales of weaving machines from the UK. He visited ITMA 1955 Belgium which brought closer contact with the leading European machinery principals, enabling the company to offer the complete plant in dyeing and finishing machinery. In the early 1960s, Mr. Hussain's younger brother, Mr. K. Jarrar, underwent training by the principals that expanded the business's service capabilities, laying a solid service platform for the company.

Beginning with the establishment of an engineering workshop for some simpler parts manufacturing like warp stop motion for looms and parts for auto cone winding machines. Carrying forward during the 1980s, the nephews K. M. Khalid (Dyeing & Finishing) and K. M. Pervaiz (Spinning & Weaving) took over and further expanded the business as one of the leading players in the industry.

The Trainer: Industry badly needed trained manpower: K.M. Hussain had a passion for learning and transferring to colleagues in the industry. He felt In order that Pakistan could stand with respectable position internationally trained manpower was fundamental. He encouraged youngsters to get trained at Sandoz lab. for basics in textile processing. Thus, hundreds of these newly trained got suitable employment in the textile industry. For practicing professionals, office of Al Ameen on Serai Road in the early days became a hub of sharing knowledge and later an association was formed under the name Society of Technologists. Al Ameen made a humble and lasting contribution to strengthen the nascent textile industry. He used to reassure youngsters by saying “dyeing is 10% common salt and rest is common sense.”

Comments by Mr. Henry Scurrah Country Head, Sandoz Basel in Pakistan from 1952-1961 “I knew and worked with Mr. K.M. Hussain of Al Ameen Trading Corporation

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

Henry Scurrah June 2023, Alderley Edge, UK

in Serai Road, Karachi, for 10 years from 1952. When I arrived in Pakistan I immediately fell under his influence. He was like an uncle to me. The textile industry in Karachi at that time was very limited and located chiefly in the then undeveloped desert region to the northeast of the city. The problems which entrepreneurs and investors faced in those days were enormous. Poor water quality and inconsistent supply were just a few of the problems which had to be overcome. Bad or even non- existent communications were additional headaches.

However, pioneers like K. M. Hussain were able to encourage the doubters and lent massive support to the fledgling industry through their technical expertise.

Pakistan’s enormous textile industry today owes much to the attentions of people of the caliber and integrity of Mr. Hussain. His successors, who were young boys at the time I refer to, are a credit to their father. I know they carry the standards he set. I lost a good friend when he passed away. Archroma’s current position today stands through the efforts of Mr. K. M. Hussain.”

Emergence of Jamshoro Plant, Quotes from Walter Schuetz, successor of Mr. Henry Scurrah as Country Head Sandoz in Pakistan 1961-1965 “During 1961 to 1965 I have lived in Karachi as a delegate of Sandoz AG, Basel and enjoyed the privilege of working together with K.M. Hussain of Al Ameen Trading, stockist for Dyes and Chemicals of Sandoz. At that time Pakistan's cotton textile industry was growing immensely it included spinning, weaving, dyeing, printing and finishing after the country infrastructure started to get in place. K.M. Hussain (Hussain Bhai) practiced technical selling to the new textile industrialists and gained their confidence. After some time this resulted in excellent sales and the young technicians were benefitting from

His winning personality and humble approach towards all his business partners helped to gain acceptance and confidence in Al Ameen Trading which in turn was a very important factor in the decision to establish Sandoz Pakistan Ltd with production facilities. Today Al Ameen Trading is a successful and well known trading company still run by the sons at the same standards K.M. Hussain initiated decades ago... ...Venture with a good foundation had been set up. The decades that have passed have proved that SANDOZ Pakistan (Archroma), Al-Ameen and all others connected have had the same progressive spirit we had during those

Farewell lunch to Mr. Scurrah (R), who was Sandoz delegate in Pakistan from 1952 1961. Mr. Schuetz (L) his successor was stationed in Pakistan from 1961 to 1965 .

Mr. K.M. Hussain in the forefront.

years of our early “footsteps” and the changeover from a pure “rangwala” status to real manufacturers.”

The trio of these gentlemen led to the successful foothold for Sandoz and their immense contribution to the support of Mr. M.A. Rathor, Pakistan textile industry. Marketing Director Mr. Rathor assisted Mr. (1961-1998) Schuetz in designing right product portfolio for local production - from technical assistance to trouble shooting.

Thereafter, he took over functions marketing, product management and labs very successfully until his retirement. He was well respected in the industry.

Archives 1948....  First product sold Chloramine Sky

Blue ASF & FFS (dated:15-11-1948)  Average sales of the first four years

was around Rs. 0.2 Mio = 50,000 CHF/yr

Special Report  Number of products sold during 1st

year: 19  Number of products promoted in the

first 5 years: 184  Potential / 1960’s… dyestuff 98%,

Textiles chemicals 2%

Some of the early products still active... launching years in Pakistan Imerol (1949)

Mercerol QW (1950)

Sandofix (Optifix) Revatol S (1952) WE (1950)

K.M. Hussain with Dr. Merian - Head of Dyes and Research Sandoz Ltd. Basle during visit to Pakistan, 1966.

K.M. Hussain with Mr. Schuetz - during visit to customers at Bhawalpur Textile Mills, March 1963.

Ekaline F (1952)

Sandopan (Kieralon) DTC (1957)

Ceranine HCS (1957)

Leucophor A (1960)

benefited with the availability of world class products. This also facilitated as a support to the growing textile industry in Pakistan till today.”

Comments by Walter Schuetz... contd.

70s Era – From Swiss to Pakistan management

“As the penetration into the market became deeper and the pace of industry being developed, Sandoz and Al Ameen steered through a much defined strategy by focusing on the cotton textile mills as there was almost no PES fibre at that time with very limited Rayon, Silk, PA and Woolen producers. The aim was to achieve absolute “market leadership”.

With increased sales and uptake from the

Farhat A. Mirza took over from Mr. Schweiter followed

by Mr. P. Weheren the management and ran successfully from mid 70s to 2008. He made an effort to transfer Printing reactive dyes technology into Pakistan – Drimaren P range.

Probably the largest investment at that time by Archroma global outside Switzerland. Many chemical products were transfered into Jamsohoro plant during his time with successful integration of Hoechst product portfolio.

Turning of the Century K . M. Hussain with team at the Jamshoro plant

industry, Sandoz and Al Ameen had challenge to serve them fully. Restrictions with limited import licenses available, mostly challenge of out of stock situation remained.

This quest led to the thought of having an independent manufacturing facility in Pakistan. Fortunately with enough sales in variety of products convinced the management in Basel, Switzerland by Mr. Schuetz who was stationed as country head from 1961 to 1965 to set up this facility. In 1964, the first ever spray dryer out of Sandoz, Switzerland reached Pakistan.

This was a big service to the industry which not only fortified an investment from abroad but the local textile industry

Mr. Mujtaba Rahim, presesnt President & CEO of Archroma Pakistan created a history by remodeling the company to be adaptive to future needs from the first day. Starting his career from Sandoz times as a chemist, his journey through various positions helped the company to grow further. As the requirements of fashion and changing customer needs intensified, Archroma kept on investing in its technologies at the production facility to produce innovative and more safer products.

K.M. Iqbal with Mr. H.P. Kapp - Head of South East Asian countries during training in Sandoz, Basle 1980

Following were the few of the key projects taken:  Re-modeling of leather business.  State of the art laboratory for





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R&D, testing of raw material & finished products, customer support.

Today, Archroma Centre of Excellence as it is called not only serves the local industry but supports Archroma affiliates worldwide.

Drimaren CL in granules: First reactive dyes ever produced in 0.3 CMC, rare example internationally.

Zero Liquid Discharge plant at Archroma Jamshoro was an investment in anticipation which not only helped the sustainability of the Jamshoro plant but would cater all the present/future requirements of global supply chain.

Giant step in the dyestuff portfolio with state of the art Indigo plant was established to support the growing Denim industry. Today, Archroma is the only producer of safe, aniline – free* indigo exports around the world.

Shift of chemicals production from Switzerland (Muttenz) to Pakistan (Jamshoro).

Archroma’s leading position in Denim segment with Diresul range (Sulphur dyes) and its auxiliaries.

Fine tuning of printing product portfolio Drimaren PS /successful portfolio alignment of Hoechst & BASF printing specialities.

Initiation of business in the garment area including collaboration with M/s. Montega, Italy who are specialists in fashion and innovative products for special effects. * below detection limit

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Special Report Present & Future

A Salute to the Industry: A Message from the New Generation

With the acquisition of Hunstman Textile Effects, Archroma is well consolidated specially in the dyestuff business. Specialties in digital printing Inks, Novacrons/Aviteras, high tech finishes and much more… bringing next-door availability for customers from the Jamshoro Plant while serving as synergies / solutions to industry’s challenging times. Archroma’s systems, processes and wide-ranging services are set for decades to play its due role as one of the key players amongst the chemicals and dyestuff manufacturing industry.

We have witnessed how our industry has overcomed numerous challenges, including energy shortages, infrastructure issues, a shortage of trained manpower and economic and political instability over the past crucial decades. Despite these hurdles, the industry has displayed exceptional resilience, adaptability, and determination.

It is truly remarkable that during all these years, the entrepreneurial and technological spirit in Pakistan has not wavered; rather, the most important industry, textile has significantly supported Pakistan's GDP growth while creating massive employment opportunities. It is also noteworthy that textile professionals from Pakistan are

At Al Ameen, the seamless transfer of responsibilities to the younger management has been an ongoing process for over a decade. This succession plan has instilled a sense of satisfaction and confidence among both customers and principals. The present generation has witnessed successful transitions with BASF, M. Dohman, and now with Huntsman Textile Effects they and the team members eagerly anticipate to transfer synergies, aiming for overall cost savings and sustainability within the industry.

Customer services lab, Al Ameen

embraced and preferred for employment by emerging textile industries in other countries.

In the face of fierce competition from industrial powerhouses like China and India, countries with extensive resources and a broader industrial base, Pakistan continues to excel as a benchmark in certain segments.

As such, we find this incredibly encouraging and it fills us with pride to be part of our country's development too. We will strive to contribute as a small yet enthusiastic propeller, aligned with our company's legacy of promoting industrial progress in Pakistan through cost reduction, resource optimization, and elevating the quality Be it Chemistry or Engineering.

K.M Jamshed, K.M Iqbal, K.M Fuad, K.M Asif, K.M Jawwad & K.M Farooq

Al Ameen Sales and Technical Team: Textile Value Chain

Chemicals warehouse, Al Ameen

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2024

Leather Team, Karachi

Leather Team Lahore, Kasur and Sialkot

Special Report Mujtaba Rahim (CEO & President) – Archroma (Pakistan) Ltd. Fortunately, my journey belongs to all phases of history across Sandoz, Clariant, Archorma. In 1982, when I joined the company I was lucky to meet Mr. Hussain, it was my first day in the office and for him the last appearance at Sandoz. The relationship between the two companies has rested on trust that never went into deficit, the team spirit and desire to do the utmost has remained constant despite a change in generations.

His influence in the company and colleagues at Al Ameen can still be seen today.

While writing this, I recall once one of our friend and colleague Stephen Bleher, expressed the partnership in a concise and insightful way which I quote, "AlAmeen is like an affiliate within an affiliate. "

Farhat Abbas Mirza, Former CEO Clariant Pakistan Limited (1965- 2009) “Having transferred to chemicals in the year 1966 one recalls the first meeting with Hussain Bhai. Thereafter as years passed by Hussain Bhai with his ever so modest and humble personality punctuated through his passion for mutual success came to be known in the world of Sandoz as the most dynamic and rewarding selling agency. The inestimable service rewarded by Hussain Bhai in the field of Sandoz products and for the textile industry of Pakistan is commendable. Without such a contribution, today's success of Clariant as market leaders may not have been

possible. This legacy of success gratifyingly is maintained by the current incumbents of Al Ameen Trading Corporation

Mr. M.A. Rathor, Ex Marketing Director Sandoz Pakistan Ltd (1961- 1998) “Hussain Bhai was very close to me.

He was very humble and the most respected person in the industry as well as at Sandoz headquarters in Basle. I remember Dr. Richard Kern, our senior director and board member (descendent from the family of the original firm Kern

& Sandoz, 1886) personally came to receive Mr. Hussein when he visited Basle in 1962. I learned a lot from him particularly, how to deal with the customers for which he had a God given gift. He would tell the customer nothing but 100% truth. Despite being an owner, he always visited the customers himself.

Technically, he was highly well versed and would know what is good about the products he was marketing and would never exaggerate to his customers. His legacy continues with Al Ameen’s new generation.”

Al Ameen and Archorma Team Members with Mr. Mujtaba Rahim, Mr. Mark Garrett on the 75th anniversary with Archorma

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Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX MARCH 2024

Al Ameen....................................................................................58 Archroma Pakistan Ltd ...................................................FC Benninger AG.............................................................11 Chhipasons.................................................................64 CCI USA ....................................................................BC DPS World 2024.........................................................37 DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR 2024 ........................21 Fong’s National Engineering .......................................17 ITEMA SpA...................................................................1 ITM 2024 .....................................................................9 IGATEX Pakistan 2024...............................................IFC iTextiles.........................................................................3 Jakob Muller AG........................................................13 Jet Logistics.................................................................64 Rastgar ...................................................................6&64 Zhejiang Rifa..............................................................IBC