Pakistan Textile Journal, July 2021

Established 1951 July 2021

Italian Review

Calendar of Events

Heimtextil 2022 Home Textiles Sourcing Expo Dates: July 20th to 22nd 2021.

Dates: January 11th to 14th 2022.

Venue: Frankfurt am Main, Germany.

DOMOTEX asiaCHINAFLOOR 2022 Dates: May 27th to 27th 2022.

Venue: NECC ,Shanghai, China.

Venue: New York

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics - Autumn Edition

DOMOTEX Hannover 2022 Dates: January 13th to 16th 2022.

Venue: Hannover, Germany.

ITM 2022 Dates: June 14th to 18th, 2022.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Dates: Aug 25th to 27th 2021.

Venue: Shanghai China.

Techtextil 2022, Frankfurt Dornbirn GFC 2021 Dates: September 15th to 17th 2021.

Venue: Webinar week - Online event.

Dates: June 21st to 24th, 2022

Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn

Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

Dates: February 2022.

Venue: Paris

Cinte Techtextil China

Index 2021 Dates: October 19th to 22th, 2021.

Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland

Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn Dates: February 2022.

Venue: Paris

International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens Dates: September 6th to 8th, 2022.

Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China

FESPA 2021 Dates: October 12th to 15th 2021.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2022

Venue: Amsterdam.

Istanbul Yarn Fair Dates: February 22nd to 26th 2022.

Dates: November 20th to 24th, 2022.

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Textile Asia 2021, Lahore Dates: October 22th to 24th 2021.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Textile Asia 2022, Karachi Dates: March 26th to 28th 2022.

Venue: Expo Centre, Karachi.

2

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

FILTECH 2022 Dates: March 8th to 10th, 2022 Venue: Cologne, Germany.

ITMA 2023 Dates: June 8th to 14th, 2023.

Venue: Milan, Italy.

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Vol. LXX No. 07 July 2021

Publisher Nadeem Mazhar

Rs. 450.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 2020-21 was a remarkable year for Pakistan’s textile industry

Editor in Chief Amina Baqai

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Associate Editor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon

NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Production Manager Mazhar Ali

Hony-Editorial Board

AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

CORPORATE NEWS Mimaki Supports Printers Worldwide in Global Innovation Days . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh

Xinfengming Group invests in staple fiber technology from Oerlikon Neumag . .22

Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

Syed Mahfooz Qutab C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Mian Iftkhar Afzal

FIBRES AND YARNS Sateri continues investment and collaboration with Infinited Fiber Company to scale next-generation textile fibre technology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

B.S.N.C State, M.Sc. (Leeds) C.TEXT.F.T.I (UK)

B.I.G. Yarns unveils ColorMind for ultimate design freedom for contract carpets 26

Dr. Zubair Bandukda

NaiaTM Renew staple fiber. Welcome to the Renew world . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

NordaTM launches flagship product with DSM’s bio-based Dyneema® fiber . . . . . .28

PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

Editorial & Advertising Office B-4, 2nd Floor, 64/21, M.A.C.H, Miran M. Shah Road, Karachi - Pakistan Tel: +92-21-34311674-5 Fax: +92-21-34533616 Email: info@ptj.com.pk URL: http://www.ptj.com.pk

PTJ Europe Ltd. Correspondence & Mailing address: PTJ Europe Ltd. 93 Fleming Place, Bracknell, RG12 2GN, United Kingdom Tel: +44 792 2228 721

22

28

FAIRS AND EXHIBITIONS Registered Office: Dairy House, Money Row Green, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2ND, UK Registered no. 09141989

Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi.

Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

Heimtextil 2022 edition show prospects for the re-start . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

32

36 34 MILL REPORT Wülfing gets much MORE from Monforts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Family-owned German home textiles leader boosts production with a complete finishing line upgrade

41

FEATURES The double security stress-busting solution for weavers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Why Uster Q-Bar 2 should be a standard in fabric inspection

How the TIEPRO warp tying machine delights weavers worldwide? . . . . . . . . . . . .36

DYES AND CHEMICALS ARCHROMA celebrates successful market start with whiteness solutions for laundry and detergents in the US home care market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

ITALIAN REVIEW Italy: Main producers and exporters of textile machinery in the world . . . . . . .38

by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education.

42

Savio Solutions for denim yarn processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Biancalani AIRBOX: the pre-dryer machinery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Italian textile machinery firm Marzoli highlights key innovations . . . . . . . . . . .42 ITEMA GROUP showcases innovative weaving solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 EFI Reggiani BOLT delivers high image quality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Repetable® yarn from RadiciGroup used to make Carvico fabric for cycling vests 47 Italian Textile Technology Webinar for Pakistan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Webinar ACIMIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 LOPTEX, Prosino, Mesdan, Bonino Carding Machines, Ferraro, Mariplast, COMEZ, Tonello, Mario Crosta, Bianco, SMIT, BUSI Single Cylinder Sock-Knitting Machines, NEXIA, FK Group, Danti Paolo, Testa, MS Printing Solutions, DURST, Italian Color Solutions, MEI, ROJ, Ramallumin, Monti – Mac, Joseph Egli Italia, Elettronica Tessile Varese, RATTI, A. Piovan Company, Bierrebi

44

International Conference Nascent Drifts in Industry (NDI-2021) . . . . . . . . . . . .62

40 51

EDITOR’S PAGE

2020-21 was a remarkable year for Pakistan’s textile industry In 2019-20, exports were recorded at $21.387 billion as compared to $22.958 billion of 2018-19, showing a decline of 6.84 per cent in the previous year. At the end of the fiscal year, 2020-21 (July 2020-June 2021) exports have exceeded all expectations making a record of US$15.4 billion.

Established 1951 July 2021

Italian Review

The industrial sector has witnessed a remarkable turnaround due to the good policies by the government in the form of industrial support packages, relief to export-oriented industries, electricity and gas subsidies for the export-oriented industries.

There has been a remarkable growth in the value-added textiles between 2019-20 and 2020-21 period; where Knitwear has witnessed the highest growth of 69% in terms of the quantity exported and an increase in value by 36.57% for a total of US$ 2.8 billion. It must be noted that the unit price of Knitwear decreased by 19% reflecting on the high demand for low-value knitwear, particularly T-shirts in the international markets, mainly the US and Europe.

Interestingly, ready-made garments while being the second export category with US$ 2.5 billion exports witnessed a 22 per cent decline in quantity and an increase in exported value of 18.83%. This translates into an increase in the unit value of an incredible 54% over 201920. This can be attributed to the shortage in the international markets during the pandemic which Pakistan has captured.

July 2021.

Textile Exports 2016-21 US$ Billions

2016-17 2017-18

12.45 13.53 13.33

2018-19 2019-20

2020-21

12.53

15.4

In addition, home textile exports grew both in terms of quantity and value by 13% and 28.87% consecutively showing an increase of 13% increase in the unit value. This increase in bed-wear exports comes at a time where work from home practices have been adopted, suggesting an increase in demand along with supply being relatively less.

Furthermore, cotton cloth has witnessed a 48 per cent decrease in the quantity being exported while its export value increased by 4.98%. What is remarkable here is an increase of per-unit price by 150%. Lastly, Artificial silk and synthetic textile is a focal point of the exports in textiles as it has garnered a 67% fall in total quantity exported while increasing by 17.68% in terms of value while achieving a 268% growth in per unit (Sqm) value, this has increased the collective value of its exports this year from the previous and could be due to the influence of a surge in demand for PPE kits all across the world.

Textile exports have risen from US$ 12.5 billion to US$15.4 billion and it can be attributed to the policies adopted by the government to secure workforce in the textile industries, giving a competitive advantage over other countries that have been forced to lay off workers in this industry. The challenge for all stakeholders is to retain this momentum and to have a continued and sustainable growth with a focus on meeting the changing demand of global consumers.

7

Textile Briefs National

The government will soon unveil an ambitious Textile and Apparel Policy 2020-25 as consultation for finalizing the policy has almost been completed. The proposed policy is aimed at increasing the textile and clothing exports from $15.7 billion to $20.8 billion by the end of the year 2025.

1

Pakistan and Uzbekistan have recently agreed to finalize the bilateral Preferential Trade Agreement (PTA) within three months to further boost bilateral trade volume. In this, both sides agreed to form joint working groups on textile, agriculture,

2

information technology, edu-

year (11MFY21) compared to

cation, and mineral sectors to

the same period a year ago,

boost cooperation.

data released by the Pakistan

According to statistics

3

shared by an industry official, Pakistan's tex-

tile and apparel sector holds a 60% share in total exports

Bureau of Statistics.

from Pakistan

year-on-year in dollar terms

5

Cotton Productivity

Enhancement Program import more than 5,000

(GDP). The country’s textile

cotton accessions from the

industry makes up 46% of

United States for screening

the total manufacturing

against the cotton leaf curl

sector and employs 40% of

virus (CLCuV).

4

and garment exports

increased by 22.94 per cent

gross domestic product

textile and clothing

7

Imam has said the

(CPEP) helped Pakistan

Pakistan’s exports of

The value of textile

Minister Syed Fakhr

and contributes 8.5% to the

the total labour force.

previous fiscal year.

Pakistan’s cotton

6

imports hit $2.3 billion, an increase of 44 per

in fiscal 2020-21 that ended on June 30. During the period, Pakistan earned $15.400 billion from textile and apparel exports, compared to exports of $12.526 billion last year.

The advisor Razzak

8

Dawood said that during July, Pakistan's

cent during July 2020-May

exports grew at 17.3% to

19 per cent growth in the 11

2021 (11MFY21) compared

$2.35 billion as compared to

months of the current fiscal

to the same period in the

$2 billion in July 2020. 

The apparel exports of Sri Lanka were $5,210.23 million in 2019 with a monthly average of $434.19 million. They dropped by 24.32 per cent to $3,943.16 million in 2020 due to the pandemic. But the exports are expected to recover in 2021, growing by 28.95 per cent to cross the mark of $5,000 million.

reduce the cost of preparing online orders by 25 per cent.

sectors posted nearly

Textile Briefs International

Bangladesh's exports jumped 15% to $38.76 billion in the financial year ended June 2020, led by a rebound in demand for garments as Western economies recovered.

1

The exports of garments, footwear and travel products and other finished textile goods from the Southeast Asian nation of Cambodia in the first half (H1) of 2021 increased by 0.9 per cent year-on-year accounting for 57 per cent of all goods exported by the nation.

2

The US Senate recently passed legislation, the Uyghur Forced Labour Prevention Act, to ban the import of products from

3 8

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

China's Xinjiang region.

Passed by unanimous consent, the bipartisan measure would shift the burden of proof to importers.

Khyaati Leather Innovation Bd Limited, an India-Bangladesh joint venture (JV), will set up a garment accessories and bags manufacturing unit in Bangladesh at an investment of $2.95 million.

4

Jordan’s garment industry did not witness the pandemic’s worst impact, proving to be ‘relatively’ resilient in its adaptability to new trends.The economic downturn in the country’s garment industry has only had a 15 per cent reduction in exports.

5

6

Spanish apparel brand Mango has invested Euro 35 million to expand its logistics centre in Lliçà D’Amunt, Barcelona.

The facilities will absorb the growth of the company’s ecommerce logistics, enlarge the dispatch area, and support Mango’s new business lines. The 90,000 square metres enlargement will

7

Apparel exports from Turkey increased by 31.38 per cent yearon-year in the first four months of 2021. Turkey exported apparel worth $5.626 billion, compared to exports of $4.282 billion during the corresponding period of 2020.

8

Vietnam is now the second largest apparel exporter according to the latest data released by the World Trade Organisation (WTO).

Vietnam sold $29 billion worth of apparel merchandise to the world in 2020, while Bangladesh’s garment exports were valued at $28 billion.

9

News & Views

Textile policy to be approved

by August: Dawood During a media briefing the advisor to the prime minister for commerce and Investment Abul Razak Dawood mentioned that the government is set to unveil an ambitious Textile and Apparel Policy 2020-25 by the following month.

The proposed policy is aimed at increasing the textile and clothing exports between $15.7bn to $20.8bn by the end of the year 2025. Revenue implications of tariff concessions, energy rates brought delays to this problem. One crucial requirement of the textile division is the restoration of the zero-rated regime for the five export-oriented sectors which had been previously withdrawn in the year 2019.

However the adviser claimed that the technical hurdles were addressed and the consultation process with stakeholders was also completed. He mentions that the textile industry had performed remarkably this year and is investing heavily in new technology and capacity expansion taking advantage of the cheap credit made available under the SBP’s Temporary Economic Recovery Facility (TERF).

In reply to a query, the adviser also claimed that another long awaited new trade policy, the draft policy on Strategic Trade Policy Framework (STPF) 2020-25,

10

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Abdul Razak Dawood, Advisor for Commerce, Textile, Industry and Production, and Investment of Pakistan.

has also been submitted to ECC for approval. The ECC would also approve the policy soon, he said. Under the proposed STPF, a three-tier institutional mechanism is proposed for the resolution of sector-specific problems. It is believed that new mechanisms will help facilitate exporters to overcome their problems.

Earlier while briefing about the historic growth in exports, the adviser informed that export of goods grew by 18 % to $ 25.3 billion during FY 2020-21 which is the highest ever in the history of Pakistan. The exports in June 2021 were also the highest in any month in our past, at $ 2.7 billion. The exports of Services for the year is projected to be $ 5.9 billion. The cumulative exports of Goods and Services during FY 2021 will therefore cross $ 31 billion.

The Adviser to Prime Minister on

Commerce and Investment, Mr. Abdul Razak Dawood said that “This is a remarkable achievement by our exporters considering the difficulties created by COVID-19 at home and resultant contractions in our major markets”. It was not an easy task as many countries went into lockdown, and severely affected the business. Not only our exports survived the crisis but also we have enhanced it in many sectors. I salute our exporters on achieving the milestone.”

The Ministry of Commerce (MOC)’s Tariff Policy Board was formed under the National Tariff Policy with the major objective to improve the competitiveness of the Industry through gradual reduction of Customs Duty (CD), Additional Customs Duty (ACD), Regulatory Duty (RD), time bound tariff protection to strategic & import substitution industries and simplification of tariff structure and procedures.

In the current budget 2021-22, major rationalization in textile value chain, iron & steel raw materials for all kind of flat products, pharmaceutical raw materials, machinery & equipment, inputs for footwear, glass, poultry, food processing industry would further lead not only to revival of industrialization in the country but also enhanced exports. With the current measures exports are expected to grow by 5% in the next two years.

The untapped potential of the Pakistan apparel industry Mian Tariq Misbah, president of the Lahore Chamber of Commerce and Industry (LCCI) Spoke at a seminar on the ‘Latest trends and collaboration in fashion and textile industry’, where he explained Pakistan is the eighthlargest exporter of textile products in Asia, the fourth-largest producer, and the third-largest consumer of cotton.

The Pakistan textile and apparel sector holds a 60% share in total exports and contributes 8.5% to the gross domestic product (GDP), he told delegates, according to statistics. The country’s textile industry makes up 46% of the total manufacturing sector and provides employment for 40% of the total labour force, Misbah said.

He also pointed out Pakistan could take a more significant share in fashion industry exports by attracting the attention of foreign buyers, underlining the need to focus on value addition to help enhance profit margins in the export market. He also believes in enhancing collaboration and liaison between the textile sector and the fashion industry can achieve the desired results.

LCCI vice president Tahir Manzoor Chaudhry added Pakistan’s fashion industry entrepreneurs should remain up-to-date with modern requirements and be aware of the constantly evolving trends within the global market.

Textile, clothing exports soar to $13.7bn Pakistan’s exports of textile and clothing sectors posted nearly 19 per cent growth in the 11 months of the current fiscal year (11MFY21) compared to the same period a year ago, data released by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.

The growth in exports of value-added sectors contributed to an increase in overall exports from the sectors. One of the reasons for growth in these sectors is due to low-base of last year when export-oriented industries remained closed due to the Covid-19 lockdown and cancellation of orders from international buyers.

Total exports of textile and clothing were up 18.85pc to $13.748 billion between July and May this year against $11.567bn over the corresponding period in FY20. On a monthly basis, export proceeds posted a growth of 41.14pc on a year-on-year basis to $1.06bn in May 2021.

Exports of ready-made garments were up by 14.35pc to $2.706bn in 11MFY21 against $2.367bn over the corresponding months of last year. Knitwear exports were up 32.70pc to $3.414bn against $2.572bn over the corresponding months of last year. Exports of bedwear increased by 24.60pc to

Mian Tariq Misbah, President The Lahore Chamber of Commerce & Industry

News & Views

$2.472bn this year against 1.984bn in FY20.

A growth of 28.54pc was seen in export of towels to $838.507m in 11MFY21 against $652.351m over the last year. Similarly, in the value-added leather sector, exports of leather garments up by 9.92pc, and leather gloves 19.08pc respectively. Exports of raw leather declined by over 17pc during these months.

In the non-value added sector, exports of cotton cloth posted a paltry growth of 0.97pc in 11MFY21 from a year ago. Similarly, exports of cotton yarn declined by 1.60pc and raw cotton 96.51pc. It clearly indicates that these raw materials were consumed mostly by the value-added sector as the government allowed duty-free import of these products.

Exports of cotton carded were up by 3.17pc and yarn other than cotton yarn by 20.24pc during the period under review.

Export proceeds of tents, canvas and tarpaulin are up by 15.54pc, artificial, silk and synthetic textile saw an increase of 12.26pc and made up articles excluding towels, bedwear went up by 23.43pc during the months under review.

Pakistan is one of the main suppliers of global surgical instruments. However, these instruments are re-marketed from western countries with famous brands. As a result, the export value of these products remains very low.

To bridge the shortfall in the domestic sector, the industry imported 775,428 tonnes of raw cotton between July to May against 472,015 tonnes last year, showing an increase of 69.52pc. Similarly, the import of synthetic fibre posted

12

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

growth of 43.24pc as industry imports 419,459 tonnes this year as against 269,881 tonnes.

Textile exporters plan to shift industries to other countries Perturbed from gas load-shedding, textile exporters have threatened to move their industries to other countries due to the unviable business environment.

During a meeting of prominent textile exporters of Pakistan, it was mentioned that since June 11 2021 there was zero gas pressure, which has crippled industries and halted export production.

“During fiscal year 2020-21, some 99 days out of 320 working days, gas pressure was zero or low,” he added.

Furthermore, textile exporters having RLNG connections and paying the amounts with great difficulty, to meet export orders at a rate of Rs1,533 per mmbtu, are not provided gas.

The exporters questioned how industries would work without the basic raw material. They voiced concerns that there is no chance that the textile export industries will get the required gas smoothly with adequate pressure in future.

Textile industry is one of the leading export industries of Pakistan, said a textile sector research analyst. Exports clockedin at $13.8 billion in the first 11 months of the outgoing fiscal year 2020-21 alone.

“This is more than twice the International Monetary Fund (IMF) facility of $6 billion,” the analyst said, adding that depriving the industry of gas will hurt exports of the country.

Similarly, non-export industries are also not getting gas as per their requirement. These industries also play a vital role in the manufacturing of valueadded products for export industries, and also produce products for meeting local demand, said North Karachi Association of Trade and Industry (NKATI) President Faisal Moiz Khan.

“Therefore, non-export industries are as important as export industries and they should be ignored,” he maintained.

Bilwani added that amid the continuous gas crisis in the country, especially in Karachi, and given contradictory moves by the government towards its business policies by depriving the exporters of a level-playing field and viable business environment, the textile exporters have constituted a committee for due diligence

News & Views to shift textile export industries elsewhere, on the exporters demand, to correspond and negotiate with those Mr. Imran Khan, countries Prime Minister of Pakistan which have much better business and export-friendly policies and are offering most attractive incentives to their foreign investors as well as their local industries.

By 2040, 40 percent of cottonproducing regions are likely to see their growing seasons shortened by rising heat, while drought could hit half of the global crop, according to a report produced by Cotton 2040, an initiative working for a more sustainable and climate-resilient cotton industry.

Khan urged Prime Minister Imran Khan to restore Karachi’s industries and save them from destruction so that production activities can resume as usual and workers can be saved from becoming unemployed.

But even with less warming, crop losses are likely to occur even as global cotton demand rises due to population increases and an expanding middle class in some developing nations. While growers are rapidly becoming aware of rising climate risks, few companies that rely on cotton for their products know much about those threats, and consumers even less, Uren said. The new analysis should serve as “a wake-up call for the cotton industry”, she added.

Cotton industry unprepared for climate change threat to crop, farmers Climate change impacts, from hotter temperatures to more droughts and floods, threaten much of the world’s cotton production, risking worsening shortages, higher prices and financial woes for growers, researchers have warned.

Protecting the $12-billion market — in countries such as India, the United States, Brazil and China — will require both slashing emissions to limit planetary heating and stepped-up efforts by farmers to adapt to the new risks.

Eventually, if efforts to cut emissions fail and warming ramps up in line with the harshest scientific projections, cotton could be dramatically reduced as a crop, leaving the industry “a shadow of what it is today”, said Sally Uren, chief executive of Forum for the Future, an international nonprofit that backs Cotton 2040.

Extreme weather has already led to growing volatility in cotton prices. Largescale floods in Pakistan in 2010, for example, caused global cotton prices to spike to nearly $2.50 from about $0.70 in 2009, the report noted.

Crop losses are proving particularly tough for millions of developing-world cotton farmers who make up about 90 percent of the world’s growers, the report said.

Cotton variety made with US help will benefit growers, hopes minister Minister for National Food Security and Research Syed Fakhr Imam has said the Cotton Productivity Enhancement Programme Syed Fakhar Imam, (CPEP) helped Federal Minister for National Food Security and Research Pakistan import more than 5,000 cotton accessions from the United States for screening against the cotton leaf curl virus (CLCuV).

Speaking at the project concluding ceremony, the minister said a new cotton variety known as “IR-NIBGE-II’ — developed under the project and approved by the Punjab Seed Council in January — will help Pakistani cotton growers.

He said two virus-resistant cotton accessions were also released as a source of virus resistance in the US by Dr Jodi Scheffler of USDA Agriculture Research Services (ARS). Mr Imam thanked the US government for its cooperation in cotton research for development, and hoped this cooperation will continue in the future.

The CPEP, a decade-long project jointly implemented by the US Department of Agriculture and ICARDA with the funding from US Agency for

13

News & Views International Development (USAID), has been successfully completed.

CPEP helped bolster Pakistan’s cotton production and agricultural trade spanning over a decade of scientific breakthroughs in cotton breeding and developing new cotton seed resistant to viruses.

Cotton is one of Pakistan’s most important crops, yet by the mid-1990s, the prevalence of the cotton leaf curl virus (CLCuV) had seriously limited the production. The recentlyconcluded project resulted in the development of a laboratory diagnostic test to detect the virus and monitor its spread.

As part of the project, farmer field schools were held throughout the cotton growing season in smallholder farmer villages to train growers, particularly women, on best management practices to increase crop yields. Researchers also developed new cotton seeds that are resistant to CLCuV. Dr. Scheffler said the project enabled sharing of scientific knowledge between the United States and Pakistan with the support of key scientific organisations such as ICARDA and the National Institute for Biotechnology and Genetic Engineering.

It has also strengthened the livelihoods of smallholder cotton producers in Pakistan, and will protect the US cotton crop against potential outbreaks of CLCuV, the scientist said.

A major success achieved through the CPEP project is that Pakistani farmers now have access to seeds that are resistant to CLCuV with the promise of even more varieties available on the market once they receive government approval.

Cotton imports rise by 44pc in 11MFY21 The country’s cotton imports hit $2.3 billion - an increase of 44 per cent during July 2020-May 2021 (11MFY21) compared to the same period in the previous fiscal year.

14

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

The country produced barely 5.6 million bales in FY21. Despite higher orders and a number of incentives provided by the government to boost exports, poor cotton production and imported lint nullified the efforts of the textile sector.

However, instead of providing additional help to the cotton producing sector, Finance Minister Shaukat Tarin has increased sales tax on cotton to 17pc from the earlier 10pc. Cotton seed oil or banola, which earlier had zero tax, has been slapped with 17pc tax.

The increase in taxes and low cotton production has created a serious situation for farmers and ginners who are planning to go on a strike if the government does not accept their demand for abolishing taxes.

“We are going to decide about the actions against the new taxes on Sunday in Bahawalpur,” Chairman Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association Dr Jasomal told the media.

The cotton sector has a great impact on the economy as it produces lint for textiles as well as byproducts including cotton seed oil and cotton cakes. The sector helps create jobs for millions of workers across the country.

“We have not decided to call a strike but the Sunday meeting we might decide as the government has shown no sympathy towards farmers and ginners,” he said.

“It is strange that while the government is trying to boost textile

exports, it has left the cotton crop in crisis and imposed more taxes,” said Dr Jasomal.

He also disclosed that instead of an increase, the area of cultivation has declined by 20pc compared to previous year, which reflects a serious threat to cotton as a cash crop. Cultivation areas in Punjab fell to 3.1 million acres from the target of 4m acres. Cultivation area in Sindh also fell to 1.3m acres.

Meanwhile, Chairman Cotton Brokers Forum Nasim Usman said the cotton import bill will further increase when June figures are added. Total figures would easily cross $2.273bn during July-May to $3bn as large textile millers keep stocks for three months, he said. Cotton price in the domestic market is currently higher than in the US, showing higher demand and lesser supply. The cotton season has just begun in Sindh from July1. The season will peak in September for Punjab.

“Low cotton production led to the shutdown of 850 ginning factories during the previous season. Out of 1,300, only 450 ginning factories were working during the previous season which means thousands of people lost their jobs,” said Dr Jasomal.

Despite low cotton production, exports witnessed a growth of 18.2pc to $25.294bn in FY21 compared to $21.394bn in FY20. This increase of 3.9bn export proceeds could reduce the trade deficit if cotton was not imported.

BANGLADESH Bangladesh exports up 15% as global demand for garments rebounds Bangladesh's exports jumped 15% to $38.76 billion in the financial year ended June 2020, led by a rebound in demand for garments as Western economies recovered.

The world's second-largest apparel producer after China took a roughly $6 billion hit in the 2019-20 financial year, with overseas apparel sales falling 18% to $27.94 billion. read more Garment exports rose 13% to $31.5 billion in 2020/21 from a year earlier, thanks to a 21% surge in overseas sales of knitwear products such as t-shirts and sweaters, but were 7% below the prepandemic period of 2018-19 financial year, the Export Promotion Bureau said.

Sales of woven garments, such as formal denim shirts and pants, rose only 3%, which exporters attributed to tepid demand as more people worked from home and avoided social gatherings.

Bangladesh's exports in June grew at a record pace of 31% from a year earlier to $3.58 billion, led by more orders from the United States and Europe, the main destinations of apparel sales.

16

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Garment industry leaders said they expect exports to increase but rising costs of freight and raw materials could hold back growth.

"Order flow is satisfactory. But freight costs and cotton prices are rising up, that could hamper our exports" Shahidullah Azim, vice president of the Bangladesh Garments Exporters and Manufacturers Association, said.

"Our garment factories are largely unaffected by the latest pandemic situation at home but we need to control it soon," said Azim, who supplies European and North American retailers.

Bangladesh is currently battling a record spike in coronavirus cases, prompting the government to extend its strictest lock-down to July 14. Garment

factories, however, are allowed to operate observing health protocols. read more some garment workers are happy as they are able to earn overtime wages, which often account for 20% of their monthly income.

"I am really happy that I can earn some more doing overtime. There was a time when we went to the factory and sat idle all day as there were no orders," said Munna Khan, a worker in Gazipur, on the outskirt of the capital city Dhaka.

Low wages have helped Bangladesh build its garment industry, with some 4,000 factories employing 4 million workers, supplying brands such as H&M and GAP. Readymade garments are a mainstay of the economy, accounting for almost 16% of the country's GDP.

Around the World CAMBODIA Garment-footwear exports up 0.9% in first half 2021 The exports of garments, footwear and travel products and other finished textile goods from the Southeast Asian nation of Cambodia in the first half (H1) of 2021 increased by 0.9 per cent yearon-year, according to the data from the country's general department of customs and excise. These goods constituted 57 per cent of all goods exported by the nation.

Cambodia's garment, footwear and travel goods exports fetched $4.7 billion in the first six months of this year, the data showed. The US, the EU, Canada, China, Japan, South Korea and ASEAN nations were the major export markets.

Of the US $4.7 billion exports of garments, footwear and travel goods during January-June 2021, $357.8 million worth of goods were manufactured in the Special Economic Zones (SEZs). Of this, only garment exports accounted for $232 million, showing a decrease of 3.3 per cent compared to the same period of last

year. Export of other textiles increased by 41 per cent to $70 million.

For the full year 2020, Cambodia exported garments worth $7.420 billion, registering a decrease of 10.24 per cent over the previous year, according to the 2020 annual performance report of the country's ministry of commerce.

CHINA US Senate passes bill to ban all products from China's Xinjiang The US Senate recently passed legislation, the Uyghur Forced Labour Prevention Act, to ban the import of products from China's Xinjiang region.

Passed by unanimous consent, the bipartisan measure would shift the burden of proof to importers. The current rule bans goods if there is reasonable evidence of forced labour.

The bill must also pass the House of Representatives before it can be sent to the White House for President Joe Biden to sign into law. The United States

accuses Beijing of persecuting Uyghurs and other Muslim minority groups in the region.

US Republican senator from Florida Marco Rubio, co-author of the Act, welcomed the State Department’s determination that the Chinese government’s and the Chinese Communist Party’s (CCP) persecution of Uyghurs, Kazakhs, Kyrgyz and members of other Muslim minority groups in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR) constitute ‘crimes against humanity and genocide’. "We will not turn a blind eye to the CCP's ongoing crimes against humanity, and we will not allow corporations a free pass to profit from those horrific abuses," Rubio said in a statement.

Rubio also co-authored the Uyghur Human Rights Policy Act of 2020, which was signed into law last December. The US administration has raised sanctions, and recently issued an advisory, warning businesses they could be in violation of US law if operations are linked even indirectly to surveillance networks in Xinjiang.

Around the World

China’s actual cotton imports irrelevant to US ban on Xinjiang cotton Just as the Biden administration is expanding its attacks on China from cotton to other products in Northwest China's Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, foreign media recently reported that the arbitrary ban and campaign led by the US against Xinjiang cotton may push China to allow more cotton imports than usual this year.

Citing a prediction of an analyst at Huatai Futures, the Bloomberg said China may further increase cotton imports to meet rising global demand for textiles in addition to the current plan for this year.

For several years, China has been adjusting its cotton import plans in accordance with the actual balance between supply and demand of the industry in the year.

China has issued a 700,000-tons quota for cotton imports in 2021, all of

which is for non-state traders and will be subject to a sliding-scale tariffs system.

Before the COVID-19 outbreak, the number was 800,000 tons for 2018 and 2019.

This measure is conducive to the domestic textile industry to improve the supply structure of raw materials. In order to meet the needs of the middle and high-end market, the domestic textile industry, especially garment export firms have need to expand cotton imports.

Given the accelerated recovery of the global economy in the post-epidemic era, the demand for textile products has also increased, so the demand for cotton will likely continue to show an increasing trend.

Furthermore, expanding cotton imports can reduce the cost for domestic textile enterprises and enhance their international competitiveness. Currently, international cotton has an apparent price advantage comparing with domestic supply.

To expand cotton imports will reduce the costs for companies manufacturing middle and high-end products. By narrowing down the price gap between domestic and foreign market, the competitiveness of textile exporting companies will be largely strengthened.

Xinjiang cotton is regarded as being of high quality, and it is already in short supply in the domestic market. More importantly, Chinese manufacturing enjoy strong advantage in global market, which is highly recognized in global market. The measure according to sources in China is not likely to have a major impact.

INDIA India-Bangladesh JV to invest $2.95 million in garment accessories unit Khyaati Leather Innovation Bd Limited, an India-Bangladesh joint venture (JV), will set up a garment accessories and bags manufacturing unit in Bangladesh at an investment of $2.95 million. The company has signed an agreement with the Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority (BEPZA) to establish the factory in Ishwardi Export Processing Zone (EPZ).

The new unit will produce over 40-50 million pieces of back patches using paper, PU and leather, heat seal labels, silicon labels, belts, printed fabrics (coated and uncoated), hanging accessories, fabric label, hang tags/stickers, laces, shoe sole, shoe upper, bags and more, said the country’s media reports.

16

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Around the World It will also produce buttons, rivets, metal and plastic IDs, metal and plastic eyelets, lock-pin, all types of fashionable tapes, taffeta labels, woven labels and knitted and fabric belts among other things. The manufacturing unit is expected to create over 116 jobs in Bangladesh.

The agreement for the factory was signed between Md. Mahmudul Hossain Khan, member (investment promotion) of BEPZA and Pravin Satyapal Uppal, chairman of Khyaati Leather in Dhaka.

JORDAN Jordan's garment industry showed 'resilience' during pandemic Jordan’s garment industry did not witness the pandemic’s worst impact, proving to be ‘relatively’ resilient in its adaptability to new trends, according to Better Work Jordan Annual Report 2021, which noted that the economic downturn in the country’s garment industry has only had a 15 per cent reduction in exports and a full rebound is expected by 2021 end.

The report presents findings and observations from Better Work Jordan’s interactions in the garment sector throughout 2020. Better Work Jordan (BWJ) is a partnership between the International Labour Organisation (ILO) and the International Finance Corporation (IFC).

“The sector has fared relatively well in comparison with Jordan’s other sectors,” the report said. Other garment industries saw major contractions of 30 to 50 per cent.

Despite the resilience, COVID-19 has exposed some weaknesses in the sector as well, the report said. “Some factories had severe violations, such as forced labour, inaccurate and late payment of wages and reductions in the number of meals provided to workers,” it said.

The 12th BWJ annual report also showed that the country’s garment exports in 2020 were valued at $1.6 billion and made up 22 per cent of all exports.

SRI LANKA Sri Lanka's 2021 apparel exports may reach prepandemic levels The apparel exports of Sri Lanka are expected to rise to reach pre-pandemic levels by the end of this year due to efficient vaccination, efforts of industry personnel and strong government initiatives. However, the exports are likely to remain stable to lower until June 2021 as many of the apparel workers have

been found to be infected with COVID19 The apparel exports of the country were $5,210.23 million in 2019 with a monthly average of $434.19 million.

They dropped by 24.32 per cent to $3,943.16 million in 2020 due to the pandemic. But the exports are expected to recover in 2021, growing by 28.95 per cent to cross the mark of $5,000 million.

The exports had recovered after the end of the first wave of the pandemic and rose between May 2020 and September 2020. In the last quarter of 2020, the transshipment at Colombo port declined due to the second wave of COVID-19 in the country. It created congestion at the container terminals.

The long-time restrictions due to the pandemic have substantially changed the buying behaviour of the people in the US and EU regions. They rarely visited the stores and did not spend on fashion, a commodity which is of limited use when sheltering in place.

Due to restrictions during the second wave of COVID-19 in Sri Lanka and its apparel markets in the west such as the EU and the US, the exports of Sri Lankanmade apparel were severely affected in the last quarter of 2020. The demand for Sri Lankan products is high from the EU and US as they are more compliant with standards. The EU is Sri Lanka’s second largest trading partner and main export destination.

In the beginning of 2021, many overseas organisations such as Mila Fashion invested in Sri Lanka for new apparel manufacturing units in the country.

19

Around the World VIETNAM Vietnam surpasses Bangladesh as 2nd biggest garment exporter: WTO

Sri Lanka and China also entered into a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) in January 2021 to boost the apparel sector, which was severely impacted by the pandemic. The nations aimed to strengthen the working relationship between the two associations, China National Textile and Apparel Council and Sri Lanka’s Joint Apparel Association Forum, to promote value chain cooperation in the two countries, increase mutual visits, promote exchanges and improve mutual trust among industry personnel. As casual, sports and leisurewear are major products of the country, it can tap the niches all over the world, especially China where the demand for technical textiles has been increasing due to the pandemic.

In Q1 2021, Sri Lanka’s department of commerce (DoC) launched an enhanced feature on the Sri Lanka Trade Information Portal (SLTIP) for integral step-by-step procedures functionality, funded by the EU. This captures all trade procedures in a sequential order including the relevant authorities to meet at each step, costs to be incurred, required time, necessary documentation, legal justification and the submission of complaints.

TURKEY Apparel exports soar to 31.38% in Jan-April 2021 Apparel exports from Turkey increased by 31.38 per cent year-on-year in the first four months of 2021, according to the data from the Turkish Statistical Institute and the country's ministry of trade. In January-April 2020, Turkey exported apparel worth $5.626 billion, compared to exports of $4.282 billion during the corresponding period of 2020.

20

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Category-wise, exports of knitted and crocheted clothing and accessories (HS chapter 61) earned $3.161 billion during the first four months of the current year, registering a sharp growth of 34.6 per cent over $2.348 billion earned during the same period of the previous year.

Exports of non-knitted apparel and accessories (HS chapter 62) were valued at $2.465 billion, showing an increase of 27.5 per cent compared to $1.934 billion exports made in January-April 2020.

Among non-apparels, exports of carpets, mats matting and tapestries (HS chapter 57) shot up by 47.5 per cent to $1.092 billion, during the period under discussion.

Exports of old clothing and other textile articles and rags (HS chapter 63) also grew by a significant 48.1 per cent to $956.351 million during January-April 2021.

Meanwhile, Turkey's imports of cotton, cotton yarn and cotton textiles (HS chapter 52) increased by 10.7 per cent to US $1.024 billion.

Bangladesh recently lost its rank as the second largest apparel exporter to Vietnam, according to the latest data released by the World Trade Organisation (WTO). Vietnam sold $29 billion worth of apparel merchandise to the world in 2020, while Bangladesh’s garment exports were valued at $28 billion, the World Trade Statistical Review revealed.

As a result, Bangladesh’s share in global garment exports slipped to 6.3 per cent last year from 6.8 per cent a year earlier. On the other hand, Vietnam’s share improved to 6.4 per cent in 2020 from 6.2 per cent in 2019.

Though garment shipments from both nations declined last year due to the pandemic, Bangladesh's fall was faster than Vietnam's.

China still was the largest exporter of apparel last year despite a 7 per cent year-on-year drop to $142 billion, or 31.6 of the global total.

“Trade began to recover as of mid2020, but the effects of COVID-19 have varied significantly across countries and regions. In volume terms, which strip out the effects of fluctuating prices, Asia’s merchandise trade was down by only 0.5 per cent in 2020, compared to the global decline of 5.3 per cent,” WTO director general Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala said in the report. 

Corporate News

Mimaki’s newest LED-UV large format flatbed inkjet printer, the JFX600-2513, made its debut at the Mimaki Innovation Days event.

Mimaki Supports Printers Worldwide in Global Innovation Days Mimaki Europe, Japan and USA collaborate in exciting week-long event, to encourage and support printers emerging from the ongoing crisis Mimaki, as one of the leading manufacturers of inkjet printers and cutting systems, held their global event Innovation Days (2-4 June 2021) to great success. The event brought together printers, journalists and experts from Mimaki Japan, USA and Europe, to nurture innovation in the sign graphics, industrial, textile and 3D markets and drive success within the industry. The global event also introduced the market to Mimaki’s recent product releases, the JFX550, JFX600 and SUJV-160.

In a week of webinars, workshops, demonstrations, and networking events, over 1,300 attendees from all across the world logged in to participate, with the demonstration of UJV100 and JV100 printers, 3D printing workshop and car wrap workshop being the most popular events. As a first of its kind for Mimaki, visitors were able to speak with regional

Mimaki representatives, gaining greater insight into the global printing industry as it recovers from the COVID-19 pandemic.

A stand-out attraction of the event was the recently released 100 Series, which is priced affordably to allow printers entry into different markets, as many look to expand their portfolio in these uncertain times.

The new JFX600-2513 and JFX5502513, which debuted a few weeks prior at virtual drupa, similarly are higher end but still affordable printers, when compared to other large format UV flatbed machines in its class. 3D full colour print technology also featured heavily in the event, as Mimaki explored the exciting propositions it opens up in different markets and how the brand continues to extend the reach and accessibility of cutting-edge 3D technologies with its upcoming 3DUJ2207 printer.

Mr. Kazuaki Ikeda, President of Mimaki Engineering commented, “I’d like to extend my thanks to everyone who joined us during this exciting new virtual

Mr. Kazuaki Ikeda, President of Mimaki Engineering.

event. During the pandemic, carrying on innovating has been central to Mimaki’s objectives, with eight new products having been released since October, and even more scheduled to come out over the course of this year. I hope that we can soon all meet at in-person events, once it’s safe to do so, but until then I’m excited to see the results of the continued collaboration and innovation of print industry that we saw in our Innovation Days event.”

21

Shen Jianyu, Chief Executive Officer of Xinfengming Group Co. together with Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Solutions Sales Director Felix Chau and Sales Manager Wang Xiaoxin at the signing of the contract for eight new staple fiber lines from Oerlikon Neumag..

Xinfengming Group invests in staple fiber technology from Oerlikon Neumag Largest staple fiber plant order in the company's history Oerlikon concluded the largest staple fiber plant order in the history of Oerlikon Neumag with the major Chinese group Xinfengming. This involves eight complete staple fiber lines with a total of 320 spinning positions for the production of synthetic staple fibers. Oerlikon will not only supply the technology, but will also take over the engineering of the lines.

Delivery is scheduled for 2022.

With a total capacity of 1,800 t/d, the project is Oerlikon Neumag's largest staple fiber plant order to date. The eight two-step lines will produce cotton-type staple fibers in a titer range of 1.0 - 1.4

22

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

denier. With this investment, the Group is expanding its product portfolio. As one of the world's leading FDY and POY polyester filament yarn producers, the Chinese company has relied on Oerlikon Barmag technologies for decades and now also on those of Oerlikon Neumag.

Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division With its Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag, Oerlikon Nonwoven and Oerlikon HRSflow brands, the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division is focusing on manmade fibers plant engineering and flow control equipment

solutions. Oerlikon is one of the leading providers of manmade fiber filament spinning systems, texturing machines, BCF systems, staple fiber systems and solutions for the production of nonwovens and – as a service provider – offers engineering solutions for the entire textile value added chain.

With Oerlikon HRSflow the division develops innovative hot runner systems for the polymer processing industry. In cooperation with Oerlikon Balzers, highly efficient and effective coating solutions are offered here from a single source.

As a future-oriented company, the research and development at this division

Corporate News

of the Oerlikon Group is driven by energy-efficiency and sustainable technologies (e-save). With its range of polycondensation and extrusion systems and their key components, the company caters to the entire manufacturing

process – from the monomer all the way through to the textured yarn and other innovative polymer processed materials and applications. The product portfolio is rounded off with automation and Industry 4.0 solutions.

The primary markets for the product portfolio of Oerlikon Barmag are in Asia, especially in China, India and Turkey, and – for those of Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven – in the USA, Asia, Turkey and Europe.

23

Fibres and Yarns

Sateri continues investment and collaboration with Infinited Fiber Company to scale next-generation textile fibre technology Sateri, one of the world’s largest viscose producers and a member of the RGE group of companies, continues its collaboration with Infinited Fiber Company, a textile fibre technology group based out of Finland, and participated in the company’s latest EURO 30 million funding round completed on 30 June 2021. In addition to existing investors like Sateri, Infinited Fiber Company has attracted new investors including adidas and BESTSELLER. Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, commented, “We started our collaboration in 2019 as a significant investor in the previous funding round.

Sateri is excited to continue our collaboration with Infinited Fiber Company as part of our Sateri Vision 2030 commitment towards closed-loop, circular and climate-positive cellulosic fibres. This financing round marks a major milestone for both companies as we seek to scale up next-generation fibre solutions.”

Petri Alava, Infinited Fiber Company’s co-founder and CEO, added “We are really happy to welcome our new investors, and grateful for the continued

Allen Zhang, President of Sateri.

24

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

support from our existing investors. We see significant promise in our technology for major textile fibre producers, and we look forward to the continued collaboration with Sateri.”

This securement of new funding follows Infinited Fiber Company’s April announcement of plans to build a flagship factory in Finland in response to the strong growth in demand from global fashion and textile brands for its regenerated textile fibre Infinna™. The factory, which will use household textile waste as raw material, is expected to be operational in 2024 and to have an annual production capacity of 30,000 metric tons. The new funding enables Infinited Fiber Company to carry out the work needed to prepare for the flagship factory investment and to increase production at its pilot facilities in the years leading to 2024. The engineering progress supported by the additional funds also accelerates Infinited Fiber Company’s ongoing collaboration and potential technology licensing with Sateri.

Sateri strategically contributes to RGE’s commitment and strategic business direction. Sateri has developed and produced a diverse range of circular and sustainable products including Lyocell and FINEXTM, which is made from recycled textile waste. The inhouse R&D efforts and the investment in Infinited Fiber Company are part of RGE’s $200 million investment commitment to advance nextgeneration textile fibre innovation and technology.

Petri Alava, Infinited Fiber Company’s co-founder and CEO.

About Sateri Sateri is one of the world’s largest producers of viscose fibre, a natural and sustainable raw material found in everyday items like textiles, baby wipes and personal hygiene products. Their range of high quality viscose products is independently verified as safe and responsibly produced.

The five mills in China collectively produce about 1.5 million tonnes of viscose fibre yearly. The group also produces textile yarn, spunlace nonwoven fabric and Lyocell fibre.

Headquartered in Shanghai, Sateri have a sales, marketing and customer service network covering Asia, Europe and the Americas.

Sateri is committed to the fundamental principles of sustainable development; our business practices are underpinned by strict adherence to our Sustainability Policy, Pulp Sourcing Policy and universally accepted environmental and social standards.

Fibres and Yarns

B.I.G. Yarns unveils ColorMind for ultimate design freedom for contract carpets B.I.G. Yarns brings inspirational design freedom to high-end loop-pile contract and automotive carpets with the unveiling of ColorMind. The innovative yarn technology is B.I.G. Yarns’ first venture into a two steps yarn collection, offering a unique solution for creating multi-color PA6 yarns for any carpet design.

Available from mid-June 2021 in both standard and EqoCycle 75% recycled content yarn, designers are invited to work closely with B.I.G. Yarns experts to realize the designs they have always wanted. Combinations of variable levels of twisting and air entanglement, using up to 6 colors at once, elevate design possibilities beyond current limitations.

The ColorMind color bank features predefined colors, always in stock, meaning short lead times. Manufacturers can also benefit from customized lot sizes and bobbin length, creating even more flexibility and design freedom.

To preview a taster of the potential directions opened up for loop-pile carpets, B.I.G. Yarns has used the

26

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

technology to achieve its own “Optica” dot effect and “Illusion” wave effect as inspiration for customers’ design explorations.

“ColorMind offers never-seen yarn diversity to support a new level of design sophistication in high-end carpet segments. We’re very proud and excited to enter into two steps yarns with a solution offering something truly special, the result of intensive dedication from our design and development teams,” comments Emmanuel Colchen, General

Manager, B.I.G. Yarns. “ColorMind combines our strengths in delivering high-performance, more sustainable yarns to fit the evolving demands of these segments, underpinned by our expertise in color sequencing and color mixing. We’re looking forward to exciting collaborations and innovative, eyecatching designs for future loop-pile carpets.”

ColorMind PA6 yarns are based on a unique Solution Dyed Nylon yarn and are suitable for Class 33 certification (heavy

Fibres and Yarns

commercial use). The EqoCycle yarn version is mainly based on post-industrial waste and supports contract and automotive carpet manufacturers with a drop-in circular solution to reduce the ecological footprint of their end carpets.

B.I.G. Yarns B.I.G. Yarns is an independent entity within the Belgian family-owned business Beaulieu International Group and part of its Engineered Products Business Unit. It is a leading manufacturer of polyamide (PA) and polypropylene (PP) yarns for contract, automotive, residential and technical applications. Its products are supplied in the form of bulk continuous filament (BCF) and ennobled yarn (twist, heatset and frisé). B.I.G. Yarns distinguishes itself with an entrepreneurial yet simultaneously warm-hearted partnership approach, inspired by an open, SME culture, to create a wide range of high-quality yarns and related services that are often developed in close collaboration with customers and always with due respect to man and nature.

B.I.G. Yarns has two production sites in Europe – one in Belgium, one in France – and one production site in China.

planks, laminate, parquet, carpet, needle felt, artificial grass and mats) as well as upholstery fabrics.

Member of Beaulieu International Group

Headquartered in Belgium, B.I.G. employs nearly 4,700 people across 29 plants, 20 sales and distribution offices, with a major presence in 17 countries all over Eurasia, the Americas and Oceania.

The company achieved a 2020 turnover of Euro 1.8 billion and is serving 16,000 customers in 140 countries. True to its roots as a family business, B.I.G. puts sustainability, innovation and care for its employees central to its core values.

Beaulieu International Group (B.I.G.) is a global specialist in raw chemical materials (polymers), semi-finished engineered products (yarns, fibres, technical textiles and technical sheets) and is a leader in a broad range of floor coverings for the residential and commercial markets (vinyl rolls, vinyl

27

Fibres and Yarns

World’s first seamless (trail) running shoe with bio-based Dyneema®.

(Photo credit: Chris DeStefano: DSMPMPR010)

norda™ launches flagship product with DSM’s bio-based Dyneema® fiber Royal DSM, a global science-based company in Nutrition, Health and Sustainable Living, today confirmed the introduction of the first seamless trail running shoe made with bio-based Dyneema® fiber by norda™, a Canadian shoe brand.

Designed for runners by runners, norda™ was founded under the mission to empower athletes to unlock their peak potential through innovation and cuttingedge technology. The brand’s flagship product, norda™001, utilizes bio-based Dyneema® fiber to enhance performance and sustainability in a lightweight construction.

The shoe upper is seamlessly constructed with Dyneema® fabric, which benefits from the intrinsic properties of Dyneema®, the world’s strongest fiber™.

Dyneema® fiber is engineered at the molecular level to provide high strength,

28

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

low weight, waterproof and breathable properties – fusing the technical performance of ultra-light materials with aesthetic design that does not sacrifice strength or durability.

In addition to the increased foot stability and wearer comfort of the upper, Dyneema® fibers are also used to increase abrasion resistance and stretch in the shoe laces – providing four times the level of strength when compared to standard lace materials like nylon and polyester.

“When we set out to create the norda™ 001, our mission was to design an ultra-strong and durable high performance trail running shoe, and do it as sustainably as possible,” states Willamina and Nick Martire, CoFounders, norda™. “To achieve our goal, we had to look outside of the standard materials used by the footwear industry.

We realized the properties of bio-based

Dyneema® beat everything available today.”

In line with DSM’s commitment to protect people and the environment they live in, bio-based Dyneema® boasts the same exact performance as conventional Dyneema® with a carbon footprint that is 90 percent lower than generic HMPE. Sourced from renewable, bio-based feedstock, DSM’s latest advancement in fiber technology uses the mass balance approach to further reduce the reliance on fossil fuel based resources, while still contributing to a more circular economy.

“The latest development with norda™ is an example of how Dyneema® fibers are enabling our customers to deliver the highest performing products made with the most sustainably sourced materials to end consumers,” states Marcio Manique, Global Business Director, Consumer & Professional Protection, DSM Protective

Fibres and Yarns

Materials. “Incorporating bio-based Dyneema® fibers means there’s no compromise when it comes to performance or sustainability.”

Together with suppliers, customers and key partners, DSM is building an integrated product portfolio that enables both innovation and environmental responsibility. The partnership between DSM and norda™ breaks the historical boundaries of footwear development in the trail running category and proves that performance and sustainability should always run together. norda™ launch

norda run, inc.

Founded in Montreal, Canada in 2020, and headquartered in the mountains of the Eastern Townships of Quebec, is a privately held footwear and apparel company. norda is inspired by Canada’s toughest conditions, and is committed to craftsmanship in creating the highest performance products. norda’s mission is to empower all runners to achieve their peak potential,

and to provide the best performance footwear, while leaving the lightest footprint possible. Through science and cutting-edge technology, norda has created the world’s first seamless (trail) running shoe with bio-based Dyneema, the world’s strongest fiber. This achievement breaks historical boundaries in the footwear industry, and proves that the highest performance, durability and sustainability are achievable together.

DSM – Bright Science. Brighter Living.™ Royal DSM is a global, purpose-led, science-based company active in Nutrition, Health and Sustainable Living.

DSM’s purpose is to create brighter lives for all. DSM addresses with its products and solutions some of the world’s biggest challenges while simultaneously creating economic, environmental and societal value for all its stakeholders – customers, employees, shareholders, and society at large. DSM delivers innovative solutions for human nutrition, animal nutrition, personal care and aroma, medical devices, green products and applications, and new mobility and connectivity. DSM and its associated companies deliver annual net sales of about Euro 10 billion with approximately 23,000 employees.

The company was founded in 1902 and is listed on Euronext Amsterdam.

norda™ launches flagship product with DSM’s bio-based Dyneema® fiber.

29

Naia™ Renew staple fiber

Increasingly, consumers are demanding more sustainable fiber choices. Eastman Naia™ Renew cellulosic fibers allow you to meet these sustainability demands. This is circularity - where resources are not wasted, materials that would otherwise be discarded are reused, and air and water are not polluted.

Naia™ Renew is produced with the circular economy in mind, providing you with the highest quality products without compromising your creativity or our planet’s resources.

Naia™ Renew offers an innovative solution to the fashion industry’s big issues, developing circularity at scale. Produced from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% certified* recycled waste materials, Naia™ Renew creates value from hard-to-recycle materials that would otherwise be destined for landfills.

The closed-loop process used to create Naia™ Renew prioritizes the safe and environmentally sound use of chemicals, ensuring that the products you create are as sustainable as they are stylish. The manufacture of Naia™ Renew also enables a measurably reduced carbon

30

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

footprint over the fiber’s life cycle, and it is certified biodegradable and compostable, creating the possibility for fabrics to safely return to nature at the end of their usefulness.

Naia™ Renew is a superior choice.

Why? Because Naia™ Renew staple fiber has:    

Inherent softness.

Quick drying.

Reduced pilling.

Creates comfy, casual womenswear.

And the best advantage is that with Naia™ Renew, waste is diverted from landfills, its carbon footprint is reduced, and natural resources are preserved, allowing you to create sustainable products with zero trade-offs on quality.

Part of the beauty of Naia™ Renew is that it is a traceable product you can trust. This circular portfolio delivers on Eastman’s commitment to preserving resources for future generations, helping create a world where brands and consumers can be in fashion without compromise.

Ethically responsible: 1.

2.

3.

4.

Sustainable sourcing of wood pulp from certified forests.

Safe and environmentally sound chemical use in a closed-loop system.

Integrated, advanced circular recycling, capturing value from waste materials.

An optimized manufacturing process

with low carbon and water footprints.

5. Certified biodegradability

This is innovation at scale: Naia™ Renew can be produced at a scale that truly lets you advance a circular economy. And Eastman continued commitment to improve processes and reduce impacts by enhancing fiber performance and renewable benefits will constantly set the standard for sustainable fabrics.

Renew your passion: With Naia™ Renew, you can do more than create beautiful fashion. You can take an active role in fostering innovation - while demonstrating a passion for sustainability that resonates with consumers worldwide.

Keeping in mind the benefits Naia™ Renew is offering, iTextiles® is now sourcing Naia™ Renew staple fiber by Eastman across the regions. iTextiles® has a firm belief in sustaining the textile industry and offering the most sustainable products to its consumers and thus presenting such fiber that safely returns to nature at the end of its usefulness.

To know more about Naia™ Renew, contact iTextiles® (Pvt) Ltd. or visit www.itextiles.com.pk, You can also call us at +9221 35147784-92 for sourcing. *Naia™ Renew recycled content is achieved by allocation of recycled waste material using an ISCCcertified mass balance process.

Fairs and Exhibitions

Heimtextil 2022 edition show prospects for the re-start The plans for the coming Heimtextil are being drawn up against the background of an optimistic perspective for 2022. A promising number of registrations and a positive echo from the sector are encouraging signals for the restart in few months. The is scheduled from 1114 January 2022.

The sector is raring to go and yearning for a return to the international stage. Personal discussions, physical product presentations and valuable inspiration – the call for an international and multifaceted meeting place for the sector is loud and clear seven months before the next scheduled edition of the trade fair. At present, the falling corona infection rates, as well as the associated moves to relax restrictions and open up businesses, offer good reason for optimism at home and abroad. “At last, we can see light at the end of the tunnel.

And, although this is no reason for euphoria, it gives us a solid ground for taking a positive approach. We have excellent contacts to our international customers who have expressed a great need for personal encounters, a direct exchange of information and new

impressions”, says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies, Messe Frankfurt. This is also reflected by the reassuringly high number of registrations already received after more than a year of pandemic and with seven months still to go before the leading trade fair for home and contract textiles opens its doors again. Thus, around 80 percent of exhibitors at Heimtextil 2020 are interested in taking part in the coming edition of the fair.

Digital service to supplement the trade fair Digital services will supplement the spectrum of products to be seen at Heimtextil 2022 in Frankfurt. In planning are live streams and online contributions from the programme of lectures. They will cover a variety of topics, such as ‘sleep’, the Heimtextil Trends and Interior.

Architecture.Hospitality, the service for (interior) architects and hospitality

Trend Space: tomorrow’s furnishing trends

experts. Lectures will illuminate the

For visitors interested in design, the highlight of the programme of events in 2022 will once again be the Trend Space inspiration area in Hall 4.0. The coming edition will show how the pandemic has changed our lives and, therefore, the way we furnish our homes. In this connection, particular attention will be given to the mega subject of ‘new work’, which will be viewed with new facets. As in the past, the director of the Trend Space is Anja Bisgaard Gaede and her team from SPOTT Trends & Business.

Materials Library.

sustainability theme andthe Future Nextrade, the order and datamanagement portal, is another digital service offered by Messe Frankfurt and provides an around-the-clock business relationship between dealers and suppliers. As the first digital B2B marketplace for home and living, Nextrade brings together demand and supply from the entire sector and thus creates significant value added for both sides: www.nextrade.market

31

Mill Report

A completely new joint control system joins the two machines seamlessly.

Wülfing gets much MORE from Monforts Family-owned German home textiles leader boosts production with a complete finishing line upgrade.

For leading European textile manufacturers, adapting quickly to changing and highly uncertain market conditions has long been a necessity.

The need for flexibility has only been intensified since the onset of the Covid19 pandemic.

Monforts has been able to assist its customers all along the way through this difficult period, not least with its MORE – Monforts Original Replacement Equipment – programme.

The Monforts commitment to customer service is based on four principles – helpful, accurate, fast and reliable. The company has established a reputation for quickly and efficiently dispatching spares and components where they’re needed worldwide.

32

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Monforts machines are known for their robustness and long service life, but major advances in digital technology mean that there are now significant gains to be made in the retrofitting of the latest automatic drives and control systems to machines, going far beyond the basic replacement of spare parts.

Home textiles leader Wülfing GmbH, founded in 1885, is one of the oldest but also the most modern home textiles companies in Germany, with its main weaving and finishing operations located in Borken, North Rhine-Westphalia, and a further jacquard weaving mill in Steinfurt, as well as with a making up and packaging plant in the Czech Republic.

The family-owned company’s extensive home textiles portfolio – spearheaded by the well-known Dormisette brand of bed linen – is supplied both to a wide range of retailers, discounters and catalogues, as well as to airlines hotels, retirement homes and other public institutions.

In addition, Wülfing is also a specialist in African damask fabric weaving at the production site in Steinfurt.

All told, the company has over 500 employees and with 160 weaving machines in continuous operation has an annual capacity of 60 million square metres of cotton fabrics – roughly the area of 8,400 football pitches. In addition 200,000kg of high quality 95%

Mill Report cotton yarns are always in stock, with 15,000kg processed into fabrics on a daily basis.

“Our particular strength is in widewidth weaving and the development of customer-specific ranges,” says Gerd Schulte-Mesum, Wülfing’s Borken plant manager. “We have fully-integrated production in Germany on the most modern machines and flexibility is fundamental to our continued success.

The fast-moving market demands everincreasing innovation, service and the rapid implementation of new ideas.”

Fabric stability At its Borken plant, Wülfing has employed a Monforts sanforizing line since 2009 to guarantee the required dimensional stability and shrink-fastness of its high quality bed linen. With a working width of over three metres, the sanforizing process is a central pillar in the production of typical wide-width cotton fabrics for home textiles.

In 2017, the company was able to acquire a second Monforts sanforizing line from another company which, although built in 2005, had been virtually unused. It was overhauled and installed behind a Monforts equalizing frame of a similar age.

“Unfortunately, the two machines had to be operated separately via individual controls and did not represent an integrated unit,” says SchulteMesum. “This resulted in deficits in the desired productivity and in the control technology.”

Wülfing consulted with Monforts on a number of upgrade options and opted for a completely new joint control system to merge the two machines, as well as a new connecting inlet, a tensioning and damping field and a steaming unit.

“Monforts provided a fast and precise erection and commissioning of the technology in spite of the difficult pandemic circumstances,” says Schulte-

Mesum. “The result has been an increase in production speeds by 20% and enhanced uniformity in fabric width through a much improved guidance system.

“We are also achieving energy savings as a result of the new control and drive technology and operation has been simplified and improved as a result of the unified control. We benefit from simplified access for maintenance work such as the grinding of the rubber blanket, but most of all we have greatly improved our flexibility and now have two almost identical Monforts sanforizing lines.”

“It’s been a pleasure to work with the team at Wülfing on this project, which demonstrates what is possible in the modification and upgrading of Monforts machines already in operation,” adds Thomas Päffgen, Monforts Area Sales Manager. 

Two almost identical Monforts sanforizing lines now provide Wülfing with much improved flexibility.

33

Features

Uster Q-Bar 2 – The formation monitoring system

The double security stress-busting solution for weavers Why Uster Q-Bar 2 should be a standard in fabric inspection Uster, Switzerland, 14th July 2021 – What do weavers need? In a word, it’s security – for both fabric quality and profit margins. And for this double security, there’s only one solution: the Uster Q-Bar 2 formation monitoring system. It’s like having an extra operator dedicated to a single weaving machine…

Operators should be everywhere at the same time – checking, fixing, keeping the machines continuously running – no matter in which weaving mill, all around the globe. Operators should be as fast as world record sprinter Usain Bolt, see as good as an eagle and with the knowhow of an engineer and service technician for different kinds of weaving machines. As

34

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

operators with this skill set are really rare it’s a matter of fact that most of them are stressed.

Don’t risk profitability This kind of stress can be a risk to weavers’ profitability. For example, a worn-out part might be overlooked, setting off a drama affecting margins.

Defects could be repeated, showing up again and again – linear meter by linear meter – for as long as it takes to identify the fault and fix the issue. If only someone could have an eye on things, constantly.

Long-running defects can also arise from dirty parts, or from missing or

inadequate maintenance. Whatever the issue, what they have in common is that they spoil lots of good fabric – worst of all in the middle of the web – and yet they can be automatically detected and damage avoided. Q-Bar 2 is the solution, working with various weaving machine types (except water-jet and jacquard).

Uster Q-Bar 2 has its inspection position within the fabric formation area, allowing it to respond quickly when a defect appears and avoid long-running or repeating faults.

Alarms and stop signals alert the operator to correct problems immediately.

This early detection reduces second quality and material loss.

Features standard is what many weavers wish to achieve. Q-Bar 2 is the way forward.

Weaving defects can have various root causes, so Uster Q-Bar 2 provides different algorithms to identify specific defects and their causes. With this knowledge, it is possible to prevent defects during the actual weaving process.

Uster Q-Bar 2 monitors the fabric already at the critical stage in fabric formation with automatic, in-line inspection. Identifying problems here brings enormous benefits and enables weavers to deliver constant quality and stay competitive in the market.

Operators would surely vote for QBar 2 as a standard on every weaving machine. They would appreciate Q-Bar 2 as the new colleague in their team, reliably keeping an eye on the web all day long. Whether a single or repeating defect occurs, the integrated LEDs used

by Q-Bar 2 would highlight the system status and pinpoint the location of defects with red lights. Wouldn’t it be great to empower operators to secure both profitability and quality for the boss!

About Uster Technologies Uster is the world’s leading provider of quality management solutions from fiber to fabric.

Wrong drawn-in defect in fabric formation zone

Q-Bar 2 also monitors critical machine units in the formation zone. If there is a problem here, the system makes it easy to identify and eliminate it, preventing further defects, and again maximizing fabric yield.

Smarter than loom sensors To err is human – which makes it essential to have machines. Smart weaving machines do point out issues to the operator, but Q-Bar 2 sees what weaving machines can’t. For example: the constantly stressed operator fixes a broken warp yarn, picking the yarn and drawing it in the reed position; loom sensors get the signal that the missing yarn is now available and accelerate to full speed within milliseconds.

Immediately, an alert starts at Q-Bar 2,

with a red light indicating the location of the issue. What happened? The operator picked the wrong reed position. Without the Uster formation monitoring system, the defect stayed undetected, as the operator had already moved on to fix the next issue at another machine.

Time pressure is not the only worry.

Complex patterns, fine yarns and a lack of experience can all lead to wrongly drawn-in warp yarns – defects that are hard to recognize with the human eye.

Without an automatic solution in place, the problem with wrong draw-ins is usually unnoticed until it’s woven into the fabric for some meters of length.

Security for management and shop floor The best way to avoid off-quality is simply not to make it. A zero-defect

Uster Technologies offers hightechnology instruments, systems and services for quality control, prediction, certification and optimization in the textile industry. This includes systems for quality management, laboratory testing and in-line process control for fibers, staple and filament yarns, fabric inspection as well as value-added services.

Uster provides the globallyacknowledged Uster Statistics benchmarks for trading, textile knowhow training, consulting and worldwide after-sales services – always aspiring to fulfill the textile market’s needs, to drive innovation forward with ‘quality in mind’.

Uster Technologies AG is headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and operates worldwide. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA), Suzhou (China) and Caesarea (Israel). 

35

Features

How the TIEPRO warp tying machine delights weavers worldwide?

The revolutionary TIEPRO tying machine in the short time has become a standard workhorse in renowned weaving mills.

Offering unique, easy-handling properties and efficient warp-sheet processing, it has convinced operators and managers alike. TIEPRO has become a must-have for forward-looking weaving mills. What makes it so special?

Warp tying is an essential process in every weaving mill. Until the beginning of the last century, this process was conducted manually. The first warp tying machines appeared in the 1930s. The mechanized warp tying had revolutionized the industry. At that time, the Swiss company Uster offered the KLEINUSTER/USTERMATIC for automatic warp tying. As part of its global marketing strategy, Stäubli acquired this product line and developed it further, which resulted in the TOPMATIC, one of the world’s leading tying machines.

The design successfully integrates the workflow requirements of the mill with a number of various technical weaving solutions developed by Stäubli.

Continuing development made this machine a highly reliable and important component in many mills. In line with its credo – every development must bring customer benefits – Stäubli constantly pursues its commitment to R&D. Its new TIEPRO warp-tying machine incorporates very special and unique features that make it as inevitable as the tying process itself.

TIEPRO warp tying machine with an operator.

36

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Easy and rapid start-up Any type of tying machine to be used in a mill must first be placed on the warp-tying frame at the weaving machine.

An operator has to dock the machine by hand.

Equipped with robotics, TIEPRO docks itself to the old and the new warp sheets.

Afterwards, the operator can simply confirm startup by pushing the start button – and automatic warp tying begins. Thus, TIEPRO leaves staff more time to oversee the weaving hall or handle other tasks.

Easy handling Before tying, and during the warp stretching on the tying frame, typically, the yarns of new and old warp sheets don’t align precisely. This fact can require time-consuming effort during the tying process. But not with TIEPRO. It easily handles misalignments of up to 10 mm, ensuring precise and quick preparation.

TIEPRO incorporates a revolutionary form of automatic Double End Detection (DED) as a standard feature. Stäubli DED detects double ends automatically before the warp yarn is cut.

This outstanding feature is unique.

Another standard feature is the Auto Reverse function, which works in conjunction with DED during the yarn separation process.

Double ends caused e.g. by sticky yarns are detected by the sensor, immediately extracted, and separated. This process is done automatically within milliseconds and is virtually impossible to follow visually. It requires no operator intervention. Once done, the yarn separation process automatically restarts.

Historic warp tying machine in a Stäubli showroom.

Sustainable and highly available for processing Warp tying machines typically operate using separation needles. TIEPRO is the only one in the world that uses separation cones. The cones are made of top-grade, long-lasting materials, sure to last for many years. This is a great advantage over conventional machines, which require regular replacement of the separation needles. Another benefit is that TIEPRO does tying without an oil bath. These two attributes make for low maintenance and high availability in the mill.

The TIEPRO warp tying machine covers a broad range of applications and handles warps with or without a 1:1 lease. The design is a result of Stäubli’s closeness to mills, understanding of their needs, and constant and successful collaboration with them. The overall concept of the machine makes for less operator intervention, increased efficiency in warp tying, and the highest operational availability.

Founded in 1892 as a family-owned workshop on the banks of Lake Zürich, Stäubli is a pioneer in mechatronics, with a proud heritage of quality craftsmanship.

Dyes and Chemicals

ARCHROMA celebrates successful market start with whiteness solutions for laundry and detergents in the US home care market Archroma, one of the global leaders in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, announces that a successful first year on the U.S. home care market with its whiteness solutions for laundry and detergents.

Archroma acquired in December 2019 the BASF's stilbene-based optical brightening agents (OBA) business for liquid and powder laundry detergent applications. The acquisition included the OBA technology, portfolio and manufacturing unit at Ankleshwar, India.

Since then, Archroma has mobilized its global experts, technologies and know-how, to design a holistic solutions portfolio for household, industrial & institutional cleaning (HI&I) aimed to support detergent manufacturers.

The portfolio now includes solutions for whiteness, coloration, stain removal, fabric softening, as well as sequestering agents and surfactants, which can be used in applications such as multipurpose cleaning powders, detergent powders, dish wash tablets and liquids, laundry

liquids and fabric softeners, and hard surface cleaners.

Only a little bit more than one year after launching in the U.S., success is there.

Archroma used its experience working with manufacturers and brands in the textile industry to enter the US detergent markets for the very first time, and has been able to gain a significant position with most key laundry detergent manufacturers with its solutions for whiteness.

In particular, the company reports special interest from U.S. detergent brands and manufacturers for its Leucophor® 5BMGX, as this optical brightener allows them to achieve high levels of whiteness with a blueish undertone. The product is also highly soluble in water and stable in oxidative environment.

Bryan Dill, Head of Sales, North America, at Archroma, comments: “We are extremely proud of our progress with

our whiteness solutions for laundry and detergents in North America. Of course, such success is built upon Archroma’s decades of OBA expertise in many other applications like textile and paper, but we couldn’t have done that without the trust of the major detergent brands who selected our product performance and our know-how.“

About Archroma Headquartered in Reinach, Switzerland, Archroma operates in over 100 countries, with 3,000 employees located in 35 countries and 26 production sites.

Archroma is passionate about delivering leading and innovative solutions, enhancing people’s lives and respecting the planet. The company is committed to the principles of "The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, Efficient, Enhanced. It's our nature!"; an approach reflected in its innovations, world-class quality standards, high service levels and costefficiency. 

37

Italian Review

Italy: Main producers and exporters of textile machinery in the world

by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education.

The economy of Italy is the third-largest national economy in the European Union, the eighth-largest by nominal GDP in the world, and the 12th-largest by GDP (PPP). Italy is a founding member of the European Union, the Eurozone, the OECD, the G7 and the G20; it is the tenthlargest exporter in the world. Its closest trade ties are with the other countries of the European Union; with whom it conducts about 59% of its total trade.

The economy is set to rebound and recover most of this year’s losses in 2021.

The investment activity should be supported by increased EU funding and an accommodative fiscal policy stance, while the reopening of the global economy should fuel foreign demand.

Further waves of Covid-19 infections and a high public debt cloud the outlook.

However. Focus Economics panellists project activity to expand 5.7% in 2021, which is down 0.1 percentage points from last month’s forecast, and 2.7% in 2022.

The textile machine market consists of players that manufacture basic machines for labour-intensive textile manufacturing countries and machines for advanced and developed countries producing textile products, where labour is expensive.

Automation just like in any other industry helps in bringing down the operation cost and provides better products.

Now Italy is one of the main producers and exporters of textile machinery in the world. The Italian textile industry still plays an important role in the fashion sector and in the entire national manufacturing, although deeply resized compared to the first half of the last decade. On the European scale, Italy stands on the podium of the main producers with a high level of specialization in the different stages of the value chain. There are approximately 300 companies that produce textile machines and related accessories, for a total of about 12,000 employees.

38

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Italian Textile machinery exports by segments 2020

Source: ACIMIT.

A majority of Italian manufacturers are actually small to medium-sized enterprises that provide custom-made spinning, weaving, knitting, finishing, laundry and dry cleaning machines to the market. These machines are designed to process natural well as manmade fibres, in order to provide the right solution for its global customers.

According to the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT), creativity, sustainable technology, reliability and quality are the characteristics that have made Italy a leader in the manufacturing of textile machinery. Currently, Italy holds a strong position as one of the main suppliers of textile machinery in the world.

Among the top producers of textile machinery manufacturers in Europe, Italy holds second place after Germany and the technological level of its production is considered of the highest standard even by their competitors themselves.

Production of Italian textile machinery decreased from Euro 2.27 billion in 2019 to Euro 1.76 billion in 2020, thus showing a decline of 24%. On the other hand, the export of Italian textile machinery also declines from Euro 1.86 billion Euro in 2019 to Euro 1.47 billion in 2020, thus showing a decrease of 21%. The wide range supply of Italian textile machinery manufacturers let them face the needs of all the potential customers. Exports represent 83% of total sales, realized in about 130 destination countries.

Italian textile machinery sector (Million Euro) 2020/19 2020 Change

2017

2018

2019

Production

2,547

2,537

2,266

1,759

-22%

Export

2,144

2,108

1,865

1,468

-21%

Domestic sales

403

429

401

291

-27%

Import

527

513

478

391

-18%

Domestic consumption Source: ACIMIT

930

942

879

682

-22%

Italian Review This process of internationalization, together with the vocation for innovation in the sector, allowed Italian companies to consolidate and further improve the leading position held by the Italian textile machinery industry all over the world.

Production and exports of Italian textile machinery for the past four years are given in Table.

Italian Textile Machinery Exports by Area -2020 (Million Euro)

The supply of Italian manufacturers covers all the classic sectors into which we can divide textile machines. Italian sales abroad are divided among these main sectors: 34% finishing machines, 23% accessories, 20% spinning machines, 11% knitting machines, 6% weaving machines and 6% other machines.

In 2020 Italian exports of textile machines was divided as follows: Asia (38%), followed by Europe (23%), North America (8%), Latin America (6%) and Africa (4%).

The significant contribution to the Italian exports of textile machinery came from Turkey. In the 2020 period, Italian exports toward the Turkey market amounted to the value of Euro 205 million. Other markets are China, the USA and Pakistan. The supply of Italian manufacturers covers all the classic sectors into which we can divide textile machines. Italian sales abroad are divided among these main sectors: 35% finishing machines, 21% accessories, 17% spinning machines, 10% knitting machines, 9% weaving machines and 8% other machines.

Source: ACIMIT

Future prospects The changing fashion trends create uninterrupted demand for new textiles, which generates demand for textile machinery and has impact on the fabrics market. At the same time the process of increasing the strength of cotton increases the demand for machines like mercerizing.

In the Covid-19 crisis, the global textile machinery market was estimated at 5.9 million units in 2020, which will reach 10.1 million units by 2026 and will show a CAGR above 9.1%.

Italian Textile Machinery exports to main countries 2020 (Million Euro)

Focus on Pakistan Pakistan is an important market for textile machinery. In 2020 the value of Italian exports to Pakistani market was 69 million Euros, with a decrease of 14% compared to the previous year. The most requested Italian machinery for the Pakistan market are the finishing machines (49% of the total exports Source: ACIMIT towards Pakistan), followed by knitting machines (20%).

Italian textile machinery manufacturers have long been committed to providing sustainable technological solutions both from an environmental has been committed since 2010 with the "Sustainable Technologies" project and economic standpoint, capable of effectively reducing consumption and production costs.

The digitalization of production processes in the textile sector is an indispensable response to new trends requiring faster time-to-market and justin-time production.

To provide a suitable response to clients who are facing difficult challenges in developing new production processes and business models within the textile industry. Italian product ranges are increasingly compliant with 4.0 technologies. There are numerous examples of these types of technologies in Italian machinery offerings on display at ITMA Barcelona. Among these are the use of intelligent management platforms, on board machine sensors for data acquisition allowing the monitoring of both the machine and products, predictive maintenance, for a reduction in costs obtained through less downtime, and augmented reality applications supporting the operator in the various production phases. 

39

Italian Review

Savio Solutions for denim yarn processing The Italian textile machinery manufacturer Savio can be defined as a denim specialist, providing winding machines that can easily process special and challenging yarns, such as Lycra® and Dual Core Yarns. Savio winding unit is equipped with clearing, splicing and tension control devices for ensuring perfect splices and perfect package shape.

The demand for denim yarns with the elastomeric core is expanding and plays an important role because of fashion versatility and flexibility. Stretch garments are playing an important role in this scenario, denim jeans and leggings are highly requested, especially for womenswear. Keeping up this trend of stretch denim, many yarn and fabric manufacturers are offering duo core yarns with improved recovery and strength, while retaining the comfort of cotton next to the skin. Dual-core spun yarns are consisting of three components: a core filament - mainly Lycra®, a polyester multifilament as T-400® and a staple fibre mainly cotton. This special yarn offers improved recovery and strength compared to traditional core spun technology. Savio winding machine can easily process special and challenging yarns. Savio winding unit is equipped with splicing and tension control devices for ensuring perfect joints and perfect package shape. A common problem faced by stretch fabric manufacturers is the breakage of the yarns during the downstream process.

The well-known Savio Twinsplicer still represents the solution to achieve the ®

40

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

best performance of a “perfect joint” on Core Yarns, mainly “single-core” with cotton, but also positive results have been achieved with Dual-Core Yarns. In this field, Savio can also offer the new splicing technology combining air and water, Moistair®, which represents the most flexible solution of any kind of yarn.

To allow the warping process to be best achieved, winding machines produce big cylindrical packages, usually 300mm in diameter and over, with high density.

The peculiar robustness and strength of denim are given by the thickness of the yarn.

Twinsplicer®: the unique selling proposition of Savio Twinsplicer® is the unique, original and reliable solution to process blends with elastomeric filament. Savio patented it in 1983, a mechanical splicer composed of discs coated with a polymer.

The way the splice is prepared and made ranks the Twinsplicer® at the top among all other splicing devices. The Twinsplicer® enhances its technological versatility with stretch and spandex yarns (cotton/Lycra®), creating invisible joints with perfect tightness and with the elastic filament core perfectly integrated into the joint. The result of this conception is the Twinfil®, a yarn without knots, perfectly reconstructed at the junction point; this quality comes from a series of fundamental mechanisms that implement and monitor all phases of operation without the use of compressed air and water, recreating the original structure of the yarn.

The Savio Twinsplicer® performs controlled mechanical splice in each phase. The splice is not recognizable from the rest of the yarn and each splice is identical to the other ones. The excellent aesthetic qualities and strength of the splice have a highly positive influence on subsequent processing phases: high warping speed, high-speed waving with automatic weft insertion and knitting. So much so, that nowadays many knitters and even more weavers don’t simply request Twinfil® yarn spliced with Twinsplicer®, they demand it as essential to the quality and final look of their fabrics.

Advantages of Twin Splicer  The yarn strength near the spliced

 





 

area is equal to or more than parent yarn.

Warping and weft performance will improve due to better splice strength.

With Core-Spun Yarns (CSY), the core filament is incorporated in every joint hence the dyed fabric will not have any patch mark on the spliced portion and even elasticity is retained in the joint.

Best choice for denim yarn to fine count core-spun yarns with cotton fibres.

Completely mechanically operated hence no need for compressed air and water. Overall air consumption is reduced by at least 50% compared to air splicing.

The joint is virtually invisible.

Reduced setting complexity.

Biancalani AIRBOX: the pre-dryer machinery Competitive, for sure. That’s what the fashion industry is. Only the brave, they say. The ones who can make it are not only brave but super professional, smart and with an eye for real (r)evolutions.

Sometimes it happens that a piece of clothing or an accessory meant to be sort of a sidekick of the main collection turns out to be something more: a stand-alone incredible item.

line. In fact, it is an incredible independent finishing machinery. As it dries super well and its dimensions are very compact – but also scalable according to the client’s needs – it can easily be also an intermediate dryer in the washing or printing finishing processes.

Any textile sector can be interested in it, from home textile to printing – while AIRO®24 is definitely in charge when talking about terry towels.

gently guided through the drying process:

It seemed like AIRBOX, the pre-dryer machinery by Biancalani, was looking forward to show the textile world it was definitely a main-collection item. And finally, field experience has been validating AIRBOX evolution. It was a long way to the top. At the beginning, AIRBOX was born as AIRO®24 sidekick; then it has proven a highly versatile machinery that could match any finishing production line, and upgrade it.

Of course, other pre-dryer machineries do exist cylinder or loop machines for example or free dryers and stenter frames. But indeed, they are often expensive or bulky or not that effective and make energy-saving and sustainability sort of an impossible dream.

figure out sort of a size chart for it, the

Furthermore, they might produce side effects, maybe because the fabric has to face tensions or squeezing or maybe because of the risk of overheating the external part of before “melting” its heart. AIRBOX by Biancalani is an independent free dryer where the fabric is

textile machinery is ideal both for big and

And then, it happened: AIRBOX showed the textile universe that it was not only an aide to AIRO®24 or part of a

it is wrapped and penetrated by air at a super high speed that dries it evenly, efficiently, and yet gently.

AIRBOX as stand-alone machinery means the fabric is gently cared for and not stressed at all. Furthermore, vertical channels inside it are what makes its size so compact but also extendable. Let’s same we use when buying a piece of clothing: finding your “right-size” is so easy that AIRBOX is the quintessence of stand-alone versatility, i.e. what the fashion industry needs. The AIRBOX small manufacturers.

It’s all about (r)evolutions and being able to spot the potential of an item.

Even textile machinery can change it all in the finishing process.

41

Italian textile machinery firm Marzoli highlights key innovations Marzoli, a Camozzi Group company and an Italian leader in the supply of complete spinning lines, components and digitalised solutions that optimise performance in spinning process exhibited at recently concluded ITMA Asia + CITME. According to the company, the phrase “Textile Engineering” – incorporated in its logo – perfectly expresses Marzoli’s ability to innovate and work in close contact with customers, supporting them throughout all phases of the process.

Services start with feasibility and preliminary studies and continue through plant construction, line start-up, optimisation, management and subsequent commissioning. Marzoli offers its services to all sizes of project from a single machine to a complete spinning mill.

42

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

The company’s other services include staff training and organisation of maintenance activities; turnkey solutions and support in financing activities; business plan development; automation level analysis and project management.

“At ITMA Asia, Marzoli is displaying its Draw Frame DFR1, which leads the field in terms of production capacity and yarn quality, thanks to 1000 m/min production and low CV per cent. Easy to operate, outstanding reliability, high flexibility and low operational costs are key features of this world-class draw frame,” the company stated.

Another company strength is Marzoli’s expertise in developing the most advanced digital technologies which together create smart solutions for predictive maintenance, remote control and plant management.

“Marzoli developed MRM (Marzoli Remote Maintenance), the world’s first patented software platform able to analyse big data generated by machinery processes and also to continuously monitor mission critical operations. This ensures a reduction of machine downtime, a longer useful life of parts, and more timely and effective maintenance,” the company added.

“Alongside this, integrated management can be enabled by YarNet, highly innovative software, through which users can easily manage the entire Marzoli spinning process directly from their PC. With it every machine in a plant can be monitored with ease – a real value-added technology for customers aiming to maximise productivity and profitability,” the company said in the release.

Italian Review Brain Box is a patented Marzoli software with an integrated APP, developed entirely in-house, which significantly improves plant performance.

Tests confirm that Brain Box can generate a 5.5 per cent increase in productivity, an 8 per cent increase in efficiency, and 1.5 per cent in energy savings.

Taomapp is a new and innovative approach to cotton analysis in which the trash level inside the cotton is accurately determined through photographs taken by smartphone, as company stated. It is based on ultra-high-resolution image recognition techniques and quantifies the results on the Marzoli Trash Index.

Trash Analyzer an effective tool that, together with Marzoli software platforms, analyses cotton’s trash content to optimise machinery set up. It can be applied wherever there is a flow of material in a pipeline.

“Marzoli is also showcased its innovative solutions for the nonwoven sector at ITMA. With its deep experience and technological knowledge in fibre preparation, Marzoli is uniquely qualified in the implementation of plant for nonwoven products. By developing strategic partnerships with each customer, bespoke nonwoven manufacturing lines, can be developed, with each one based on exact production needs,” the company said.

“For Marzoli, developing and adopting green technologies means carefully balancing business needs with environmental sustainability,” Cristian Locatelli, Marzoli’s general manager, said in the release. “Circularity through fabrics regeneration, is creating a synergetic value chain that benefits all stakeholders. The new paradigm of a circular fibre supply chain will accelerate learning and development of know-how pushing innovation and opening up to new potential.”

“We are happy to be able to return to participating in exhibitions after more than a year of lockdown. Starting again with ITMA, the most important exhibition in Asian, is a fitting occasion to compare with industry professionals and a precious opportunity to showcase the high value of Marzoli solutions for spinning. Our commitment to constant improvement represents added value for customers, who aspire to meet challenging new

goals and grow in their target markets,” said Lodovico Camozzi, president and chief executive officer of the Camozzi Group.

enable informed and optimised

Established in 1851 and part of the textile division of Camozzi Group since 1999, Marzoli is one of the major worldwide brands in the textile sector and a unique European manufacturer of complete machine lines for the opening, preparation and spinning of short-staple fibre.

Group has 40 subsidiaries in 75 countries,

Synergies with the digital capabilities of the Camozzi Group have enabled the development of software solutions that

management of the spinning process.

Established in 1964, the Camozzi

2,930 employees, five operating divisions and 25 production sites. It is a leader in innovative technologies for the production of industrial automation components and systems as well as integrated systems for industry 4.0.

Marzoli is represented in Pakistan by Acmatex Corporation (Private) limited.

43

Italian Review

Itema’s R95002denim weaving machine

ITEMA GROUP showcases innovative weaving solutions Itema, one of the global providers of advanced weaving solutions showcased dedicated weaving machines for denim and technical fabrics and, for the first time at the recently concluded ITMA ASIA + CITME, in a unique booth for all the Group’s companies: Itema®, Itematech®, Lamiflex® and Schoch®.

ten in Hall 3 - to spare parts and key components for the textile industry.

Featuring a top-notch organization in China – that counts 145 employees, Itema assembles the latest generation machinery in the world-class manufacturing sites both in Europe, as well as in China, with the same attention to detail and quality, reliability and performance guarantee that Itema Customers look for when they purchase Itema machines.

R9500-2denim in a new weaving width

Itema Weaving Machinery China based in Shanghai offers to the Chinese market a full package of services, encompassing European manufacturing quality standards, timely and accurate commercial, administration and aftersales, a fully equipped showroom, OEM spare parts warehouse and logistics hub and the ItemaCampus training centre.To establish and reaffirm once again its technological leadership in the industry, Itema Group brings on stage a wide range of solutions, spanning from advanced weaving machines – a total of

44

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Itema Weaving Machines A total of 10 Itema weaving machines were on display, of which 2 were in Itema booth and the rest in partner booths across Hall 3.

This loom revolutionized the denim weaving sector. The Itema denim dedicated rapier machine R9500-2denim comes to ITMA Asia featuring a brandnew exclusive weaving width -2400mmthat reflects the most recent trends and the evolution of the denim market worldwide, more and more characterized by super stretch and comfortable fabrics.

The Itema denim dedicated rapier machine, figures in hand, in real weaving conditions is the most efficient on the market and can be equipped with the one-of-a-kind iSAVER® that represents nowadays the unique real sustainable weaving tool available for weavers capable to withstand the demanding denim production conditions.

Moreover, the machines can be also equipped with innovative IoT solutions.

The iBOOSTER package featuring iCARE, indeed, implements the most modern

principles to provide unparalleled performances and predictive maintenance.

Itematech® Hercules as superhero of technical fabrics Itematech Hercules was on display in wide weaving width 3400mm and finetuned to weave heavy filter fabrics.

Offering both negative and positive rapier transfer systems, Hercules represents the perfect combination of mechanical sturdiness and textile efficiency ensuring greater profitability in the market.

Another key advantage of Hercules lies in the perfect warp yarns control. In fact, the back-rest roller perfectly couples sturdiness with responsiveness ensuring the perfect warp yarns compensation.

Hercules is the ideal weaving machine to easily produce any kind of technical fabric thanks to its superior ease of use and flexibility.

Itema® Weaving Machines on show in partners booths Itema weaving technology is traditionally recognized to be the preferred choice of textile machinery producers due to its superior versatility and textile mastery.

Italian Review Here lies the reason why 8 Itema weaving machines were exhibited at partners booths, encompassing Jacquard shedding machines manufacturers and label looms providers. Particularly: 









Itema R9500terry, 2800 mm, Jacquard Bonas Ji which since years leads the high-end terry production at Bonas booth.

Itema R9500-2, 1900mm, for Satin Label and two Itema R9000, 1900mm for Taffeta Label and Sport Shoes at Huzhou Hyundai (Julibao) booth.

Itema R9000, 1900mm, to produce Label fabrics at Shanghai TongXiang booth.

Itema R9000-2, 3400mm and 3800mm for Window Screening and Blind Curtains fabrics at Song&Song booth.

Last but not least, Itema R9000-2, 3400mm, fine-tuned to weave Window Screening will be running at Changfang booth.

OEM Spare Parts and After-Sales Support The spare parts and after-sales support advanced solutions were also presented at the show. Some of the main advantages for OEM spare parts and complete after sales support are: 

Fast and reliable service when it comes to offering customers peace of

Hercules Itematech



 

mind through high-quality replacement parts.

Customized upgrade kits to optimize machine performance and retrofit latest Itema innovations on existing looms.

Electric, electronic and mechanic repairs to give new life to looms.

Training to ensure Itema weavers get the most out of their weaving machines thanks to the ItemaCampus offering available in seven worldwide locations.

Lamiflex® Lamiflex as a supplier of technical composite products became part of Itema

Group in 2017. They presented a catalogue of key rapier weft transfer components such as flexible rapier tapes and sprocket wheels, with the guarantee of the best European quality and sector know-how.

Schoch® Schoch Reeds were also present for the very first time in China its product portfolio is made up of high-quality reeds and accessories for textile looms with all the unique technological highlights that make since 1800 Schoch a worldwide recognized reliable partner.

45

Italian Review

EFI Reggiani BOLT delivers high image quality Hardware and software enhancement on the ultra-high-speed inkjet printer eliminates single-pass imaging challenges with smoother solids, improved printing uniformity and more Electronics For Imaging, Inc. has enhanced the world’s fastest digital textile printer, the EFI™ Reggiani BOLT. The upgrade is a combination of hardware and software enhancements that will minimize artifacts, compensating for missing nozzles that may occur over time and enhancing uniformity to deliver smoother solid colors. The upgrade also delivers improved quality and smoother gradients, plus it enables faster printhead replacement and drastically increases file processing speed by up to 200% for large, complex files.

Dedicated color profile creation on the newest-version EFI Fiery® BT-1000 digital front end driving the printer delivers better, more-intense tones and improves capabilities for matching existing color profiles commonly used in digital textile printing.

The enhancements are an important step in further enhancing digital printing’s presence in the industry, bringing greener, more-sustainable inkjet technologies to the fore as a replacement for analog dyeing procedures that make textile manufacturing the world’s second-largest polluting industry.

“With the industry’s top speed and now the delivery of even higher print

quality, the EFI Reggiani BOLT can help spur a revolution in textile printing, migrating more production to digital technology, ensuring the fastest return on investment on high-volume work thanks to superior throughput and unmatched reliability and uptime,” said EFI Reggiani Senior Vice President and General Manager Adele Genoni. “With the BOLT’s new enhancements – and its ability to print extremely high quality on a variety of designs and fabric types at record-breaking speeds up to 90 meters per minute – the economic cross-over point between analog and digital printing of fabrics is lower than ever before. The time for single-pass technology is now with this best-in-class, sustainable, highquality and high-throughput digital textile print solution.”

This 1.8-meter-wide single-pass printer – the first digital textile printer to receive the Printing United Alliance InterTech™ Award for advanced print technology innovations – is wellpositioned to have a impact on the industry. With its current installed base, the EFI Reggiani BOLT is already responsible for printing more than 50 million linear meters of fabric worldwide.

EFI™ Reggiani BOLT.

46

Faster processing and higher-quality print Now available globally, the EFI Reggiani BOLT upgrade features hardware and software enhancements for improved overall performance, printing quality, uniformity, and increased user friendliness including:  Nozzle out and uniformity compensa-









tion features that improve solid color appearance and enhance overall printing quality.

Increased performance and improved processing speed for large, complex files.

Integration of a new digital camera that both provides for precise and consistent print results and shortens the time for print head replacement and alignment.

An enhanced user interface – based on EFI Fiery Command WorkStation® 6.0 – that is easier to use.

Fiery Smart Ink Estimator, a key tool to help determine job profitability based on accurate calculation of ink costs prior to printing.

About EFI EFI™ is a global technology company, based in Silicon Valley, and is leading the worldwide transformation from analog to digital imaging. The company develops breakthrough technologies for the manufacturing of signage, packaging, textiles, ceramic tiles, building materials and personalized documents, with a wide range of printers, inks, digital front ends, and a comprehensive business and production workflow suite that transforms and streamlines the entire production process.

Italian Review

Repetable® yarn from RadiciGroup used to make Carvico fabric for cycling vests The Maratona dles Dolomites (Ladin for "Dolomites Marathon"; Italian: Maratona delle Dolomiti), is an annual single-day road bicycle race covering seven mountain passes in the Dolomites. A sustainable vest for Maratona dles Dolomites cyclists made from innovative polyester yarn obtained from PET bottles.

A contribution to the sustainability of the 2021 Maratona dles Dolomites, the iconic cycling event scheduled for July 4, 2021, that takes place along some of the most beautiful passes in the Dolomites, comes from Carvico and RadiciGroup.

Two Italian textile manufacturers have joined competencies to develop and produce 10,000 sustainable vests. They were created by using its “special edition Maratona 2021 fabric made of 100% recycled polyester from PET plastic bottles and will be given to all participants in the competition.

A discarded PET bottle takes over 700 years to start decomposing. And currently, over 20 million tons of such bottles are produced globally. Recycling them means acting responsible, giving a new life to plastic and perform a concrete and crucial action for saving our planet.

The 10,000 vests which are going to be presented to the participants to the Maratona dles Dolomites-Enel have been created thanks to the recovery of 102,000 bottles which means 6.516 Kg of CO2 will not be dispersed into the atmosphere!

The exclusive fabric by Carvico the vests has been engineered with the use of repetable®, an innovative polyester yarn by derived from a post-consumer process involving the recycling of plastic bottles.

RadiciGroup is an Italian company established in Bergamo, which is a leader in the production of polyamide yarns, techno-polymers and textile solutions for different applications including sportswear and fashion. Compared to virgin polyester, Repetable® allows for lower CO2 emissions (-45%) lower water consumption (-90%) and lower energy consumption (-60%), while still granting extraordinary performances.

Such production process and corporate philosophy are aligned with the main values of the Maratona dles Dolomites–Enel which is expected to be once more a great green event.

“A small gesture with a great meaning: cycling while wearing our vest will allow athletes taking part in the Maratona dles Dolomites–Enel to show that sport lovers are also respectful of the environment– claimed Laura Colnaghi Calissoni, President of the Carvico Group.

Promoting environmental responsibility means investing in the present to live a better future.

For many years now, Carvico has been implementing several environmental policies aimed at creating a truly sustainable supply chain and a circular economy model. We deeply believe in sustainability and we are permanently searching for the perfect balance

Angelo Radici, President of the RadiciGroup.

translating into our production process and hence into our cutting-edge and ecofriendly fabrics.”

“We have had a long-term partnership with Carvico – claimed Angelo Radici, President of the RadiciGroup – aimed at launching on the market various high performance solutions which are also eco-sustainable and eco-friendly. We have teamed up with several strategic partners to expand our range of products made of recycled products coming from a local, transparent and traceable supply chain, giving concrete evidence of the fact that circular economy and sustainability are feasible.”

47

Italian Review

Italian Textile Technology Webinar for Pakistan (June 17-18, 2021) ITA, the Italian Trade Agency and ACIMIT, the Italian textile machinery manufacturers association organized a two-day marathon webinar on June 17-18 primarily focusing on the technology relevant to Pakistan’s textile industry. ACIMIT (the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) is a private non-profit-making body and its main purpose is to promote the Italian textile machinery sector and in supporting its activity, mainly abroad, through the most updated and innovative promotional means, constantly improved during last 60. 30 Italian companies presented their technologies representing spinning weaving, nonwovens, processing, digital printing and garment sectors. The pages following the brief introductions of the companies and their presentations are dedicated to the companies present at the event.

The Ambassador of Italy in Pakistan, Andreas Feraresse, The Italian Trade Commissioner Mr. Amelio Scarpa, who is also responsible for Pakistan and Alex Zucchi, President of ACIMIT initiated the first session of the event.

Mr. Andra Feraresse, the Italian Ambassador in Pakistan in his welcome address mentioned that it is a positive moment for the bilateral relations between Italy and Pakistan, particularly the economic and commercial sectors.

Mr. Andrea Feraresse Despite the situation, due to Covid 19, Pakistan has witnessed an increase in international orders particularly Pakistan’s textile industry. The machines are working at full capacity and there’s a need to enhance and update capacity through technology.

According to Mr. Feraresse, that’s why this is an important event for Italian textile machinery exporters to showcase the best technology to meet this increasing demand.

Mr. Alex Zucchi, the President of ACIMIT mentioned that ACIMIT is the third-largest textile machinery organization.

According to Mr. Zucchi, there was tremendous interest by the Italian companies to participate in this event. The selected companies represent the complete textile supply chain being the leaders in their respective fields of activity.

Session 1: Spinning and Nonwovens Loptex LOPTEX is the leading company for supplying technologies and systems for contamination removal. Renato Gerletti gave a detailed account of Renato Gerletti the technology with a focus on the use of the new EXA system.

48

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

The business with Pakistan last year was relatively stable with a drop of 7% as compared to the last year. The situation, according to Zucchi is improving steadily due to the increased orders in Pakistan and the favorable government policies towards investments and exports. Italian textile technology is suitable for Pakistan because of excellent and long term relations between the two countries.

Mr. Amelio Scarpa, the Italian Trade Commissioner Dubai, who also in charge of Pakistan welcomed the participants and the presenting companies. According to Scarpa Italy Pakistan partnership is strong and mentioned that despite the difficulties posed by the pandemic, the relations between Pakistan and Italy continue to be strong. He appreciated the efforts by ACIMIT and thanked the partners who made this event possible. 

Mariplast

Prosino

Francesco Bottari gave an overview of the Mariplast and the solutions it provides for all stages of processing Francesco Bottari Yarn: spinning, twisting, winding and yarn dyeing.

Pietro Prosino spoke about the importance of the spinning and twisting rings. The company supplies to OEMs worldwide.

Pietro Prosino

Ratti

Mesdan Claudio Bertolotti presented the complete laboratory solutions provided Claudio Bertolotti by the Mesdan for all textile processes, includes spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing and finishing.

Marco Pedroni presented a comprehensive account of the Two-For-One twisting machines by Ratti Luino.

Marco Pedroni

Italian Review Bonino Fadi Tarazi discussed the vast range of nonwoven, cotton, woollen and semiworsted carding machines produced Fadi Tarazi

by Bonino. The company offers complete lines from fibre preparations to cards.

Session 2: Weaving and Knitting The second session was related to Weaving and Knitting, where seven companies from ACIMIT presented their machines and solutions.

ITEMA Andrea Turiano, gave a brief description of the ITEMA being a leading global provider of advanced weaving Andrea Turiano solutions, which includes best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services.

MEI MEI INTERNATIONAL was represented by Giovanni Saporiti.

He highlighted the high-tech weaving labels based on the air-jet and rapier technology.

SMIT

Danti Paolo

SMIT brand of Santex Rimar Group was represented by Enrico Valsecchi who mentioned the use of Enrico Valsecchi technology in weaving machines with rapier weft insertion for home textiles, garments, terry towels and customized solutions for specialized technical fabrics.

Antonio Danti gave a comprehensive account of the range of finishing machines offered by Danti Paolo.

Busi Giovanni Paola Claudia Baldracchi highlighted the diverse range of Paola Claudia superior sock-knitting Baldracchi machines.

COMEZ

Antonio Danti

DURST Panos Bartziokas highlighted the achievements of the group in digital printing and production technologies whilst ensuring environmentally friendly practices.

Panos Bartziokas

ETV

Rossano Ugazio presented COMEZ, part of Jakob Muller Group as a global leader in the Rossano Ugazio technology of Crochet and warp knitting machines.

Day 2: Finishing/ Garments/ Digital Printing

Giovanni Rapizz described the range of measuring instruments offered by ETC, particularly solutions for testing residual moisture and temperature in the Giovanni Rapizz fabric.

Ferraro A. PIOVAN

Giovanni Saporiti

Ramalummin Marco Riccioni gave a brief explanation about Ramallumin and its specialization in the design and manufacturing of a wide range including warp Marco Riccioni preparation.

ROJ Sandro Botta presented the solutions in the insertion of the weft and the control of the weaving looms of ROJ. Sandro Botta

Laura Capovilla said that A. Piovan can meet the various needs of roller coverings. She also spoke about Sanfor rubber belts for outstanding fabric finishing.

Laura Capovilla

Bianco Luca Fabris described advanced technology used for finishing textiles and the nonwovens.

Alex Zucchi presented in detail Ferraro’s range of solutions for the finishing industry, specifically, the effectiveness of Rotoclean, their Alex Zucchi compact washing units for after printing and dyeing processes.

ICS, International Color Solutions Luca Fabris

Bierrebi Italia Giovanni Disanto described the development of automatic machines by the company for cutting fabrics and Giovanni nonwovens to offer a Disanto competitive advantage in the manufacturing process.

Paolo Marcoionni spoke about the importance of saving time as well as money, through the use of high tech devices by ICS such as colourmatching and quality control software.

Paolo Marcoionni

49

Italian Review Joseph Egli

MS Printing Solutions

Andrea Gloazzo, presented the technologies offered by Joseph Egli |talia for water treatment and conservation that are of vital importance today.

Mario Crosta Roberto Degrandi shed light upon the diversity of the company Mario Crosta that that been a leader in manufacturing polar fleece, brush-sueding Roberto Degrandi machines, shearing machines.

Monti Mac Fabio Monti gave a presentation about MONTI MAC and its innovative solutions for the automation of the sewing process in the traditional and technical textile industry.

50

Gianluca Bestetti gave a precise account of MS as a leader in the Gianluca Bestetti production of industrial digital textile printing machines, which includes both scanning and singlepass ones.

Nexia Mattia Pezzin highlighted Nexia’s excellence in washing and dyeing industrial machines for garment Mattia Pezzin finishing.

Testa Testa machines and technology was presented by Michael Casali who described how their machines are able to inspect, cut and pack fabrics and technical articles.

Michael Casali

Tonello Denis Chiarello emphasized Tonello’s role as a global leader in garment finishing technologies that has been contributing to the Denis Chiarello Made in Italy success.

FK Group

EFI Reggiani

Fabio Monti

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Marino Bazzoni gave detailed information about the company and EFI Reggiani which is a worldwide provider of Marino Bazzoni complete solutions for the digital textile printing market.

Marco Bedussi and Aldo Moscaroli Marco Bedussi and Aldo Moscaroli presented FK Group that has been a top reference company for analysis, planning and automation for the curring room since 1961. 

Italian Review

LOPTEX The company designs, engineers and produces Sorters EXA systems for the detection and elimination of contamination in the spinning and nonwoven industries. Loptex offers solutions for carded fibres application; natural, synthetic fibres.

Their local representative is TEP (Textile Engineers of Pakistan).

Prosino Founded in 1946, Prosino manufactures spinning and twisting rings. It supplies leading OEM’s in the world, such as Rieter, Saurer, Zinser Marzoli, Cognetex, Gaudino, Saurer, Volkmann, Yichang/Jingwei, Toyota in addition to the customers at thousands of spinning mills.

Prosino is represented in Pakistan by FAST INTERNATIONAL.

Mesdan Founded in 1952, based in Italy Mesdan offers complete laboratory solutions for all the textile plants: spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing and finishing mills.

The company also offers equipment for testing the physical properties for fibres, yarns, fabrics and finished products (of the technical textile as well), and also for the colour fastness, and the dyeing assessment and formulation. All equipment is designed and manufactured to accomplish the international testing methods and can be supplied with official calibration reports.

Additionally, Mesdan is one of the leading manufacturers of all types of yarn joining devices such as mechanical knotters, automatic splicers for the Savio winders, and the hand-operated splicers for other winders, doubling and twisting machines and for knitting and weaving applications (creels and looms).

The local agents are are MADHANI ASSOCIATES. 

51

Italian Review

Bonino Carding Machines The company has been in operation in the textile machinery field since 1913, producing nonwovens, cotton, woollen, worsted, and semi-worsted Carding machines. Bonino carding machines offers to its customers in more than 100 countries complete lines from fibre preparation to cards. These lines are specifically designed to process virgin and regenerated fibres, both natural and

man-made, suitable either for spinning or for nonwoven, including a range of special products such as surgical cotton and de-haired cashmere.

Their production range includes preparatory machine

Mariplast Founded in 1969 and for 50 years, Mariplast specializes in the field of plastic supports for the yarn industry. Today the range of products Mariplast includes more than 1,000 items for all the stages of processing yarn: spinning preparation, spinning (ring, open-end), twisting, winding and yarn dyeing. For Mariplast, quality means effectively responding to customer’s needs. this attitude leads to innovation research capabilities and products design, characteristics that coincide with the main strengths of the company.

52

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

(such as Bale openers, all type of openers, rotary cutters rag tearing machines, blending boxes, vertical blenders, oiling units, willow card), carding machines, (Nonwoven cards, cotton cards, woollen condenser sets,) cross lappers and drafters. In the field of nonwovens the company produces aerodynamic card.

Local agents are ATC PAKISTAN (Pvt.) Ltd.

Mariplast provides its customers with a wide choice of raw materials, starting form normal polypropylene, mainly used for the production of disposable tubes, up-to special materials for the different types of technical application to ensure the best mechanical and thermal resistance to high temperatures.

In addition to Mariplast Spa Montae (Pistoia), Mariplast North America Inc. in Greer S.C. USA was founded in 1993.

The company also have productive collaborations in Spain, Egypt and Turkey.

Mariplast is represented in Pakistan by AARTEX INTERNATIONAL.

Italian Review

Ferraro Since 1951 Ferraro is active in the Production and sales of finishing equipments for woven and knitted fabrics open or tubular, compactors unit, sanforizing lines, calenders and openwidth washing unit for after printing and dyeing process.

Rotoclean is one such innovative compact washing unit with contained sizes, in only one tank two separate and independent baths with a very high washing efficiency level, for the elimination of textile oils and sizing used in weaving the process. This technology enables washing with a low consumption of electrical power and water.

Represented in Pakistan by ACMATEX CORPORATION. 

COMEZ COMEZ is one of the global leaders in the technology of crochet and warp knitting machines that are ideally suited for covering multiple applications in the fields of traditional and technical applications.

COMEZ offers reliable mechanical crochet machines, designed to perform at maximum operating speeds, as well as easy to operate electronic crochet machines, featuring the most advanced technologies. Their single and double needle bed warp knitting machines allows the production of numerous and complex types of fabrics. Furthermore with electronic machines are equipped with the exclusive COMEZ electronic drive system for weft bars, take-down devices and feeders.

COMEZ customer care is their foremost strength. They guarantee consultancy services for narrow fabric projects, joint studies for developing new products and machine customization. The global sales service of Comez includes the supply of spare parts, a training centre, a worldwide helpdesk and machinery demonstration and testing facilities.

As a member of the Jakob Müller Group, complete support is provided in the development of all types of narrow fabric textiles and applications. Local agent: ATC - ASSOCIATED TEXTILE CONSULTANTS (PVT.) LTD.

53

Italian Review

Tonello The company is one of the global leaders of garment finishing technologies since 1981, has been contributing to the success that made in Italy has enjoyed all over the world.

Thanks to its cutting-edge machines and its one-of-a-kind service., it acts side by side with its customers creating a link between the stylists and the companies working in the dyeing and finishing of the garments. With more than 8500 machines sold worldwide, Tonello is considered the reference point for the garment finishing industry. Tonello is represented in Pakistan by ALAMEEN Trading Corporation.

Mario Crosta Founded in 1925 thanks to the creativity and to forethought of his founder Mario Crosta, the company, placed in Busto Arsizio (VARESE, ITALY), quickly became a worldwide leader in design and production of machinery and plants fot dry finishing. This kind of

treatment allows to finish any kind of fibre. Mario Crosta today is a leading Italian manufacturer of textile finishing machines for knit and woven fabrics, such as raising machines, machines for polar fleece, brushsueding machines, decatizing machines, continuous bed calandering machines.

Mario Crosta is represented in Pakistan by MUSTEX CORPORATION

54

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Italian Review

Bianco With over 40,00 installations worldwide and 28 registered patents, Bianco reached 45 years of textile excellence. Bianco offers over twenty different types of machinery and accessories for the textile sector including fabric cutting and slitting lines , Eco Clean washing lines, fabric guides, open squeezing padder, weft straighteners, open width compactors, and accessories. entirely designed and manufactured in Alba (CN), within the TCN Group industrial centre.

The Bianco Reality is a qualified expression of Made in Italy, always at the forefront with its research and development department constantly engaged in experimenting with new products, with an ever greater technological value. Bianco is represented in Pakistan by NAZER & CO. 

SMIT Globally recognized as a forerunner in weaving technology, SMIT is an Italian manufacturer of weaving machines established in 1938 and renowned for its high standard levels of innovation, productivity and versatility, ensuring competitiveness throughout a large variety of applications. The SMIT product range includes weaving machines with rapier weft insertion for home textiles, garments, terry towels and customized solutions to produce special technical fabrics.The technology characterizing today SMIT rapier loom machines includes rapier weft insertion for home textiles, garments, terry towels and customized solutions to produce special technical fabrics. SMIT is represented by SHAN ASSOCIATES in Pakistan.

55

Italian Review The full range of products is divided into three lines, Gold, Platinum and Medical Lines, which meets the demands of most customers. GOLD LINE includes their superior sock-knitting machines for first-class socks for babies, children, and adults (both women and men).

BUSI Single Cylinder SockKnitting Machines Founded in 1958 by Giovanni Busi, the company continues to be run by the second and third generation of the Busi family today. For over 60 years they have been producing single sock-knitting machines positioned in the premium segment. Busi machines can make various kinds of socks ranging from classic, patterned (up to 6 colours plus ground), sports, technical-sports, and medical with special solutions for graduated compression socks in classes 1, 2, 3.

PLATINUM LINE includes superior sock-knitting machines that can make any kind of real sophisticated socks of the highest quality which are usually sold to end-user at a high price.

MEDICAL LINE Includes medical sock-knitting machines for certifiedcompression medical socks in classes 1, 2 and 3. The main advantages of Busi medical machines as compared to other

medical machines available in the market include up to five pattern colours plus ground colour, true rib and options for both sandwich terry and selected terry mainly available for Medical Terry applications.

NEXIA NEXIA & DE FRANCESCHI Group is active in the design, production and marketing of washing and dyeing industrial machines of garment finishing. Established in 1871 as the De Franceschi brand, today Nexia is the point of reference for industrial laundries, major industries, hospitals, large communities, hotels and textile industry. The Nexia products are made in Italy and provided with the Green Label document that aims to identify the energy and environmental performance of textile machinery.

FK Group FKgroup has been a top reference company for analysis, planning and automation for the cutting room since 1961. From Bergamo, heart of “Made in Italy” textile production, to all over the world, FKgroup carries its brand name with the most eminent Italian and International brands in textile production in all its segments, from Fashion to Home Textile, and from Automotive to Composites Fabrics.

The Fkgroup business philosophy is to change each environment into a new concept of production, a way of thinking the cutting room that applies in care of the needs and in the best “tailor made” service.Fkgroup is a choice of a good quality service from every point of view, through excessive care in the selection of components and solutions made with creativity, all with the highest attention to customers.

56

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Italian Review

Danti Paolo

Testa

A leading manufacturer of textile finishing machines, founded in 1935 in the textile area of Prato and still being a family-owned company, Danti Paolo has expanded its markets worldwide and nowadays is selling its machines all over the world.

Present since over 50 years on the international scene, Testa designs and produces customized textile finishing machinery, especially for inspection, cutting and packing fabrics and technical articles.

Danti Paolo offers raising, shearing, polishing, sueding / brushing machines manufactured at its plant in the centre of Italy.

The company follows its customers from the first stage consulting during order definition, to machine installation and after-sales service, with

Testa Group has specifically designed innovative solutions and technologies, specific for each material, which revolutionizes and optimize the job of the customers, improving processing efficiency, reducing time and costs, giving a new face to the idea of quality control.

Testa is represented by Rahman Brothers.

readily available spare parts; supported by local technicians in leading markets.

Their local representative is TEP (Textile Engineers of Pakistan). 

MS Printing Solutions MS PRINTING SOLUTIONS with headquarters in Caronno – Italy, is one of the leaders in the production of industrial digital textile printing machines, both scanning and single-pass ones.

A long family history now reaching its 4th generation, full of experience and passion. Tradition is very important for them; the MS knowledge and experience allow them to develop innovative products for the demanding and ever-changing market of digital textile printing. The use of modern technologies allows improvement in any aspect of textile printing, starting from performance up to the most important environmental issues. The versatility of these digital technologies also opens the way to different printed applications such as paper and plastic substrates.

57

Italian Review

Durst Durst is one of the worldwide leading manufacturers of advanced digital printing and production technologies to run and transform digital industrial production processes in textile.

The focus is on efficient and environmentally friendly production technologies.

The new Alpha Series 5 with SuperMultipass™ defines a new

generation of digital printing systems, creating a new high-performance class through the integration of new technologies in the printheads, inks, drying units and in the interaction with the software - for the digital production of clothing, home textiles and fashion.

The Alpha series offers print widths of

190 - 330 cm (6.2 - 10.8 ft) and can be configured with up to 8 colours. The Durst Alpha Series 5 printing systems feature improvements in terms of material handling, efficiency increases, and material diversity, to further advance the economic efficiency of digital textile.  Colour-matching and quality-control



Italian Color Solutions I.C.S. ITALIAN COLOR SOLUTIONS SRL, located in the famous textile district of Firenze (Italy), operates in the industrial sector of textile by developing software packages, and automatic machines aimed at improving the quality outputs of a modern sample dyeing laboratory.

 

The development of these technologies has been inspired by a simple concept: save time and money, this means every technological solution of I.C.S. has been equipped with high quality and accurate devices. Some latest machines and solutions by ICS are highlighted for the interst of our readers.

MEI MEI develops, produces and markets high-tech weaving labels machinery based on air-jet and rapier technology. supplying weaving labels machines to labels factories worldwide. They also offer services such as installation, commissioning and trouble-shooting, after-market sales (spare parts, accessories) and training for their customers.

MEI has been playing a pioneering role as both a developer and manufacturer of highly productive label weaving machines since 1975. Not confining themselves to improve the technologies, but today they can supply a wide range of textile products necessary for successful activity in woven labels' field, like CAD textile software, rapier and air-jet jacquard looms and accessories, shuttle looms, dobby or with jacquard, laser cutting machine, cut and folding machines. Therefore, everything concerning the latest worldwide fashion and garments trends.

58

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

  

softwareTopDye for the lab-dip laboratory; Dyestuff pipetting machine DOSORX for the automatic dosage of liquid dyestuff for the sample dyeing lab; Infrared dyeing machine COLOR-X; Light booth LUXOR-X for fast visual assessment of color and metamerism effect; Liquid chemicals dispenser CHEMI-X for the production floor; Automatic rotary store STORE-X forstocking powder dyestuff tanks; Weight-control software TIN-PRO for the manual dosing of powder dyestuff in the production floor.

Represented by Nazer Group.

Italian Review growing demands of the textile industry.

It is important to note that accessories are the tools to further optimize feeder performance and bring the weft insertion to the highest level to ensure the highest quality woven products.

ROJ ROJ skills are concentrated in the insertion of the weft and in the control of the weaving looms. Their experience and knowledge is based on materials and surface treatments; optical, piezo-electric and piezo-resistive sensors to detect the presence, movement and characteristics of the yarns; and servomotor controls. Furthermore, the management of signals and

Ramallumin Ramallumin specializes in the design and manufacturing of machinery for warp preparation. The company offers complete solutions for warping, sizing, assembling, Indigo dyeing, drying, cooling, coating, the main applications are in shirting, terry towels, denim, home textiles, wool, silk, filament, technical textiles, glass technical sector, geo-textiles, digital printing.

The integrated solutions ensure high weaving efficiency with less water, fewer chemicals, less product waste even with

communication with the weaving machine had made ROJ as worldwide leader in quality weft feeder technologies.

ROJ offers a comprehensive range of equipment designed to meet the ever-

The product program covers everything needed to improve tension and yarn balloon control, and includes sensors for the detection of knots, yarn breaks and bobbin switchover, and also a range of accessories for lubricating the yarn. 

different qualities of yarns and chemicals.

Ramallumin has machines that are reliable and easy to use. The main objective of the company is to design and produce each machine according to customers requests and always put their satisfaction first place.

Many of their customers can testify that the machines have been working for more than 30 years and are still efficiently. Their long expertise of technicians and the service

network of the group guarantee quick and targeted service solutions worldwide.

Ramallumin is represented in Pakistan by SHAN ASSOCIATES.

 Preparation

Monti - Mac Established in 1931, Monti-Mac designs and manufactures 100% Made in Italy innovative solutions for the automation of the sewing process in the traditional and technical textile industry.

Over the past twenty years, MontiMac has gradually dedicated more and more energy and resources in the research and development of solutions for the sewing, cutting and handling of traditional and technical textiles with particular atten- tion to the following applications:

of fabrics to textile finishing with head-to-head joining seam and automatic roll handling  Selvedge

preparation for digital printing with a patented fringe cutting system managed by digital cameras  Sewing, cutting and handling of

technical textiles as GEOTEX, TNT, KEVLAR for construction, defense, boating, etc.

Lastly, thanks to the acquisition of an important Italian brand, today MontiMac is the only manufacturer to make 100% Made in Italy portable sewing machines of recognized quality and reliability.

59

Italian Review

Joseph Egli Italia JOSEPH EGLI ITALIA is an engineering and manufacturing firm with 120 years of history. For the the last 35 years the company offers wastewater treatment and reuse solutions.

The company reports a global turnover of over Euro 266 million, 680 mployees and assets of Euro’s 135 million.

application of different technologies like MBR, MBBR upto and Reverse Osmosis processes aimed at achieving “Zero Liquid Discharge” of effluents. Automation is part of JEI´s philosophy and in this context JEI has developed MyJei, the system that allows a customer to manage JEI plants directly by the Smartphone. 

JEI has consolidated its know-how in the

Elettronica Tessile Varese

Elettronica Tessile Varese started their business more than 50 years ago, developing the first inventive measuring instruments to assess residual moisture and to determine pleating speed in yarns and fabrics.

And all this with electronics

RATTI RATTI LUINO S.R.L. with its RATTI and OMM brand names is an Italian company producing TwoFour-One twisting machines and covering machines since 1869.

Represented by AHS Textile Machinery Company offers under the Ratti name a complete range of TFO twisting machines for continuous filaments as polyester, polypropylene, acrylic yarn; for different applications, including stretch yarns and sewing threads.With the Ratti brand, they also produce fully electronic covering machines for the covering processes of both elastic and rigid yarns.

60

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

which we would now look as "primitive". Today we set up close relationships with many international manufacturers dealing with staple and finished textiles.

Thanks to a combination of skilled technicians and all the use of advanced technology, ETV is in a position to solve, in a targeted and precise way, any problem put forward by the customers in the textile industry.

As a company, they deal with the design, implementation, testing and installation of their own equipment, as well as related sensors and the aftersales assistance. In particular devices for on-line measurement of the residual moisture of the fabric and the temperature of the fabric.

Italian Review

A. Piovan company

Bierrebi

A. Piovan is a company that has over 40 years of experience in the industry of roller rubber coatings, it is a partner of several machine manufacturers and engineering companies for the implementation of their rubber components.

Bierrebi is specialized in the development of automatic machines for cutting fabrics and nonwovens. Their cutting system guarantees high productivity combined with constant cutting quality, in an automatic process that does not require a specialized workforce.

A. Piovan is able to meet the different needs of roller coverings (squeezing rollers for Foulard and mercerizing machines) but, above all, with the Sanfor Rubber Belt the company has achieved worldwide success.

manufacturing plant in Pontecchio Marconi, Bologna, Italy; a branch, in the U.S. which takes care of all sales and after-sales services for all US customers.

In 2017, the company opened another branch in Coimbatore, India, to satisfy the needs of the market in that area.The success of the company derives from an efficient network of agents around the world and a portfolio of prestigious international clients. Further information can be obtained from NAZER & CO., their representative for Pakistan.

In addition their main reference market for textiles/clothing, over the years, Bierrebi have developed various project dedicated to other market sectors, such as the nonwoven fabrics.In 2013, the company celebrated its 50th anniversary.

Today, Bierrebi is a multinational company with headquarter and

The Sanfor Belt is the result of a specific research and consolidated expertise. It is currently the one of the leading producers able to diversify the rubber compound based on the type of fabric because every fabric deserves its best Sanfor action. A. Piovan is jointly represented by BISMILLAH EUROTECH CORPORATION AND ZONA PAKISTAN.

61

Conference

The Textile Institute Lahore Section

International Conference Nascent Drifts in Industry (NDI-2021) Day 1 (Saturday) 28th August 2021 Time: Pakistan Standard Time Time Difference is given below the Schedule Zoom Link: https://us02web.zoom.us/j/89951815351 No Passcode 10:10-10:15

Opening Remarks/introduction of conference

10:15-10:30

Address by President TI, UK *

Vote of Thanks and Introduction of Guest of Honor 10:30-10:40 Address by Guest of Honor Dr. Abdullah Rasheed * Vote of Thanks and Introduction of Guest of Honor 10:40-10:45 Address by TI Lahore Centre Vote of Thanks and Introduction of Guest of Honor 10:45-11:00 Address by Guest of Honor Mr. TATA Vote of Thanks and Introduction of Chief Guest, Governor Punjab Chaudhry Ghulam Sarwar Address by the Chief Guest, Governor of Punjab Ch. 11:00- 11:10 Mohammad Sarwar Vote of Thanks and Announcement for Video 11:10-11.15 Emerging Pakistan Technical Session 1. Introduction by Engr.Dr. Hafsa Jamshaid Session Chair: Prof Dr. M. Uzen, Marmara University, Turkey Textiles, Fabrics and Design in Transition: Education and Industry 11:15-11:30 (Keynote Speaker )* Advances in Industrial Knitted Structure Fabrics 11:30 -11:45 (Keynote Speaker )*

Engr.Dr. Hafsa Jamshaid Katie Greenyer –World President TI UK,Creative Talent & Networks Director Dr. Allah dad State Minister of Education Maldives Dr. Allahdad M.Nusrat Ali Chisti, Vice Chairman TI Dr. Allah dad CEO Naveena Denim Pvt. Ltd Engr. Dr.Hafsa Jamshaid

Video

Prof. Dr. Oo Yu Hock ,Asia e University, Malaysia Prof. Dr. Pibo Ma, Jiangnan University, China

11:45-12:00

Future of Textile Design (Invited Speaker)

Prof.Asma Faraz, TMUC, Karachi, Pakistan

12:00-12:15

Multifunctional behavior of 3D textile Materials and structures (Keynote Speaker )*

12:15-2:30

Circular Economy ( Keynote Speaker )

Prof. Dr. Rajesh Mishra,Czech University of Life Sciences, Czech Republic Mr. Khalid Mehmood, Executive Director Master Textile Pakistan

12:30-12:45

Exhibition: Life and Design Development: A metaphoric Association

Dr. Allah dad (Pakistan)

1250- 14:00 Industrial participation of Naveena Denim Pvt. Ltd Introduction and VideoLunch Break Technical Session 2. Introduction by Dr. Allah dad Session Chair: Prof. Dr. Pibo Ma, Jiangnan University, China* Technological Leadership and its impact on Organizational Md. Tariqul Islam Ch. Founder and Chairman 14:00-14:15 Performance in the New Form ( Keynote Speaker )* Board of Trustee CCN University, Bangladesh Design driven innovation : A dialogue on design practices Umber Zahid , and Usman Zahid IIU Malaysia 14:15-14:30 (Invited Speaker)* Collective and Multiactor : An emerging management phenom14:30-14:45 Prof. Dr. Christine Phiri VC UNICAF, Zambia ena (Keynote Speaker )* 14:45-15:00 15:00-15:15 15:15-15:30 15:30-15:35

62

Effect of electrolyte on printing properties of digitally- printed cotton: process development and optimization (Invited Speaker )

Dr. Saira Faisal, NED-UET Karachi,Pakistan

Impact of work experience on job retention: a case study of Ms. , Karima Al Ghafri, Phd Scholar,Binary Omani schoolteachers (Invited Speaker) * University Oman.

Denim is the most sustainable sector of Textile Industry (Keynote Mr.Zeeshan, General Manager Naveena Denim Speaker) Pvt. Ltd Industry participation (2) Introduction By Zeeshan Khatri , iMart Pk ,Pakistan and Video

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - July 2021

Conference

International Conference Nascent Drifts in Industry (NDI-2021) Day 1 (Saturday) 28th August 2021 Time: Pakistan Standard Time Time Difference is given below the Schedule Zoom Link: https://us02web.zoom.us/j/89951815351 No Passcode Technical Session 3. Introduction by Engr. Dr. Hafsa Jamshaid Session Chair: Prof. Dr. Christine Phiri VC Unicaf Zambia 15:45-16:00

Development of Sustainable Textile Accessory Production and Processing Systems (Keynote Speaker)*

Prof Dr. M. Uzen, Marmara University, Turkey

16:00-16:15

Teaching Cotton New Tricks (Keynote Speaker) *

Prof. Dr. Jaun Cornel University, USA

16:15-16:30

Identify problems of graduate designers in textile industry due to create gaps between industry and art institutions, suggest feasible solution according to textile industry needs and demands. (Invited Speaker)

Ms. Nusrat Bibi, Assistant Professor Islamia University, Bahawalpur, Pakistan

16:30 -1640

Closing remarks

Dr. Allah dad

Day 2 (Sunday) 29th August 2021 Technical Session 4. Introduction by Dr. Allah dad Session Chair: Prof. Dr Oo Yu Hock, Asia e University Malaysia* 10:00-10:05

Engineering Practices (Keynote Speaker) *

Prof. Dr. Humaun Kabir VC, Primeasia University, Bangladesh

10:05-10:15

Circular economy and Marketing (Invited Speaker)

Ms.Syeda Rohma Afzal ,Indus Valley School of Architecture , Karachi ,Pakistan

10:15 -10:30

Branding a Country through Fine Stitch of Lining: Case of Bangladesh’s Dominance in Global Ready Made Garments Scenario (Keynote Speaker)*

Prof Dr. Asif Mehbub Karim, FCGIA, Founder GARA Global ,Malaysia

10:30 -10:45

The amalgam of accustomed artistry: a collection of the fusion of recycled denim products and the traditional crafts into new contemporary apparel products (Invited Speaker)

Ms. Maleeha Lecturer Fashion and Textiles BUITEMS Quetta, Pakistan

10:15 -10:30

Surface creation for apparel inspired through locks and keys elements by using the safety concept in the design (Invited Speaker)

Ms Saba Saleem ,IIU, Bahawalpur, Pakistan

10:30-10:45

Effect of textile material and applied finishes on properties of single jersey knitted fabric (Invited Speaker)

Mr. Abdullah DGM Massod Textile Mills Faisalabad Pakistan and Ms Nusrat Bibi IIU Bahawalpur, Pakistan

10:45-11:00

Fashion Show on Jute Garments Malaysia

Prof. Asma Faraz, Pakistan

11:05 -11:20

Break

Technical Session 5. Introduction by Engr .Dr. Hafsa Jamshaid Session Chair: Prof Dr. Asif M. Karim GARA Global Malaysia * 11-20:11:35

Fabrication and Property of Phase Change Thermo-regulating Fiber from Melt Spinning (Keynote Speaker )*

Dr. Guocheng Zhu Zhejiang Sci-Tech.

11:35-11:50

Exploration of the Factors and Challenges of Entrepreneurship Skill Development in The Fashion Design Industry of Bangladesh (Invited Speaker) *

Ms. Suborna Sarkar,PhD researcher ,Binary University of Management & Entrepreneurship, Malaysia.

11:50-12:05

Analysis of the antibacterial activity of cupressaceae extract applied on a textile substrate. (Invited Speaker )

Dr. Abdul Malik Rehan Dean Textile Engineering BUITEMS Quetta and Dr. Zamir Abro BUITEMS Quetta Pakistan

12:05-12:20

People Development for Productivity (Keynote Speaker )*

Mr.Asad Iqbal Sheikh Head of HR, Kamal Mills, Pakistan

12:20-12:40

Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Manufacturing Process and Ethical Issues: Maizbhandari Usul –e Sabah Tariqa Perspective (Keynote Speaker)*

Syed Irfanul Hoque , Managing Trustee DIRI Bangladesh.

12:40-13:00

Invited Speaker Project Video

Engr.Dr. Hafsa Jamshaid C Text FTI

13:00

Closing Remarks

Engr.Dr. Hafsa Jamshaid

University ,China

63

Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX JULY 2021

APR Sateri .................................................................25 Archroma..................................................................IBC AVM Chemicals ...................................................6 & 64 Benninger....................................................................11 Biancalani SpA............................................................1 Chhipasons................................................................64 iTextiles.....................................................................IFC Jet Logistics................................................................64 Marzoli......................................................................FC Picanol ........................................................................3 Rastgar.............................................................. 15 & 64

Established 1951

Established 1951 May 2021

Savio..........................................................................BC Truetzschler .................................................................9 Uster ..........................................................................19

German Review

June 2021

Weaving / Denim