Pakistan Textile Journal, August-September 2023

Established 1951 August - September 2023

ITMA 2023 Review II

Calendar of Events

DOMOTEX asiaCHINAFLOOR 2024 th

62 Dornbirn GFC Global Fiber Congress th

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Dates: September 13 to 15 2023.

Istanbul Yarn Fair Dates: February 22nd to 24th, 2024.

Dates: May 28th to 30th 2024.

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Venue: Dornbirn Austria.

ITM 2024 Texworld Paris

Textile Asia 2023, Lahore Dates: October 13th to 15th 2023.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Dates: February 5th to 7th, 2024.

Dates: June 4th to 8th, 2024.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Venue: Paris

HIGHTEX 2024 FESPA 2024

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2023 Dates: November 19 to 23 , 2023.

Dates: March 19th to 22nd 2024.

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Venue: Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

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ShanghaiTex 2023

Techtextil 2024

Dates: June 4th to 8th, 2024.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

JIAM 2024 OSAKA

Dates: November 22nd to 25th 2023.

Dates: April 23rd to 26th, 2024

Dates: Nov. 27th to Nov. 30th 2024.

Venue: SNIEC, Shanghai, China.

Venue: Frankfurt, Germany.

Venue: Osaka, Japan.

Index 2026 Heimtextil 2024, Frankfurt th

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Dates: January 09 , to 12 , 2024 Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

IGATEX Pakistan 2024, Lahore Dates: May 1st to 4th 2024.

Dates: April 21st to 24th, 2026.

Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

DOMOTEX Hannover 2024 Dates: January 11th to 14th 2024.

Venue: Hannover, Germany.

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

iCADEX Pakistan 2024, Lahore

ITMA 2027

Dates: May 1st to 4th 2024.

Dates: September 16th to 22nd, 2027.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Venue: Hanover, Germany.

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Publisher Nadeem Mazhar Editor in Chief Amina Baqai Associate Editor Nimrah Nadeem Production Manager Mazhar Ali

Vol. LXXII No. 08-09 August-September 2023

Rs. 565.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Pakistan achieves record cotton production after lapse of 11 years

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Hony-Editorial Board Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

CORPORATE NEWS Foreign Minister of Switzerland visits Archroma in Pakistan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 ASCC’s big ideas to be boosted by Optima 3D weaving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Syed Mahfooz Qutab

BTMA: meeting the need for tomorrow’s textile technicians . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

KARL MAYER to establish subsidiary in Turkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Oerlikon: Up-to-date with original parts & Secure Remote Services . . . . . . . . .23

Mian Iftkhar Afzal

Trützschler and Balkan join forces in textile recycling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

B.S.N.C State, M.Sc. (Leeds) C.TEXT.F.T.I (UK)

US Cotton Trust Protocol partners with Averum to boost sustainability . . . . . . .26

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

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Registered Office: Dairy House, Money Row Green, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2ND, UK Registered no. 09141989

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The summer edition of Texworld Paris welcomes 6,800 International visitors from more than 27 countries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR 2023 breaks Visitor Record . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

PRACTICAL HINTS Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Rastgar: Forging a New Era of Collaborative Competitiveness . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

PERSONALIA Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi.

Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

Renowned material science and polymer chemistry expert, Dr. Sanjay Patel, joins Navis TubeTex to advance company's mission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

34 30 FEATURES Accotex: ACC64 and ACC68 Cots Boost Lifetime . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Crealet AG: 20 years of electronic warp feeding expertise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Novibra: The right spindle to make the difference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

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Rieter: Air-Jet spinning at a new level withRieter’s J 70 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Loungewear has been a bright spot for the global fashion industry . . . . . . . . .40 Uster Fabriq Assistant – the whole story for quality info . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Automated data preparation saves time and ensures decision-making security

ITMA 2023 ITMA 2023 – Groz-Beckert welcomes over 7,000 customers and business partners at its trade fair booth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 BB Engineering presents novelties and records new order intakes . . . . . . . . . .45 A strong basis for future competitiveness textile machinery manufacturer Mayer

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& Cie. draws positive balance on ITMA 2023 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 The address of innovations in cots grinding machines, Asteks, continued its success at ITMA 2023 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Complete control with the BTMA at ITMA 2023 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 EvoSteam process paves the way for more sustainable staple fiber production .52 Oerlikon presented new staple fiber process at ITMA 2023

MS Printing Solutions and JK Group showcase sustainable innovations . . . . . . .54 VeriVide’s new UltraView – sustainable colour consistency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Mahlo looks back on successful trade fair on ITMA 2023 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Jakob Müller Group at ITMA 202 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58

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Fong’s becomes the center for sustainable and smart finishing solutions . . . . . .61 Renewcell x Inovafil x Saurer – the story of a sustainable fiber’s journey to ITMA .62

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EDITOR’S PAGE

Pakistan achieves record cotton production after lapse of 11 years Pakistan celebrates a historic achievement in cotton production, breaking an 11year record, as announced by Caretaker Federal Minister for Industries and Commerce Gohar Ejaz on World Cotton Day. With cotton arrivals surpassing five million bales on October 1, 2023, this milestone marks a significant turnaround from the previous year's figure of 4.9 million bales, which had experienced a 34% year-on-year decline.

Established 1951 August - September 2023

ITMA 2023 Review II

Addressing a press conference at APTMA House, Gohar Ejaz expressed gratitude to the efforts of Punjab Chief Minister Syed Mohsin Naqvi, Chief Secretary Punjab, and Secretary Agriculture Punjab for their dedicated work in enhancing cotton production.

He highlighted the significance of this achievement, estimating that the country would save $3 billion in foreign exchange with the increase in cotton production.

Acknowledging Pakistan's entry into the ranks of the world's five major cotton producers, Gohar Ejaz credited Punjab Chief Minister Syed Mohsin Naqvi for this achievement. He announced a substantial Rs 100 million fund for the Cotton Research Centre on behalf of APTMA, emphasizing that it would not fund salaries for the center's staff. Gohar praised the dedication and hard work of farmers, emphasizing the resilience of the cotton industry.

August-September 2023.

Anticipating a more than 100 percent increase in cotton production this year compared to the last, Gohar expressed hope that the cotton bales produced would exceed 12 million, marking a 71 percent annual increase. He stated, "The cotton bales delivered to factories till September 30 were more than five million."

During the press conference, Gohar Ejaz appreciated the collaborative efforts between the federal and provincial authorities, emphasizing the collective commitment to fortify the cotton industry. He noted, "This synergy is crucial for sustaining the positive trajectory of our cotton production and fostering a conducive environment for the textile sector." The minister also addressed challenges faced by the industry, assuring stakeholders that comprehensive measures would be implemented to address issues such as affordability and power supply. Chief Minister Syed Mohsin Naqvi echoed this sentiment, stating, "We are dedicated to overcoming obstacles and ensuring a promising future for our cotton sector, which plays a pivotal role in our nation's economic landscape."

Highlighting efforts to ensure affordability and competitive tariffs for the textile industry in Punjab, Gohar mentioned plans to either end cross subsidies or ensure dedicated power supply from a Punjab power plant. Chief Minister Syed Mohsin Naqvi praised the Agriculture Department's hard work and thanked the Pakistan Army for controlling the white fly attack on cotton crops, preventing a disaster in Punjab and Sindh.

The revival of the research center with APTMA's assistance is underway, according to Chief Minister Naqvi. He acknowledged the Punjab government's decision to rescind seed approval once obtained from the federal government. He said, "The Provincial Minister for Industry S. M. Tanveer was in Multan to mark the World Cotton Day." APTMA (North) Chairman Kamran Arshad extended gratitude to the Federal Minister for Commerce and the Chief Minister for revitalizing cotton production, offering a standing ovation on behalf of the association members. 7

Textile Briefs National In a significant stride towards ensuring the welfare of workers, Gap Inc. has officially endorsed the Pakistan Accord on Health & Safety in the Textile & Garment Industry. This marks a notable accomplishment, with the parent company of Athleta, Banana Republic, Gap, and Old Navy taking a pivotal step to uphold worker rights and enhance safety measures in their supplier factories across Pakistan.

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Unsal Erdogan, Marks & Spencer Group country manager for Turkey, said during a meeting with the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) on Monday that M&S experts will visit Pakistan in September to interact with the textile mills.

Former APTMA chief Aamir

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Fayyaz stated that the textile industry has the potential to increase exports to $50 billion if more stitching units are established in the country.

Pakistan’s textile sector exports witnessed a significant decline of 15% in July, clocking in at $1.31 billion compared to $1.54 billion recorded in the same month of the previous year, showed provisional data released by the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) on Wednesday. The country’s exports declined by 12.68% on a month-on-month (MoM) basis in the first month of the current fiscal year 2023-24 and remained $2.057 billion compared to $2.356 billion in June, as per data released by Bureau of Statistics.

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Chinese Textile Company is planning to construct a textile park in Lahore spreading over 550 acres. The company will start its construction from January, 24 and it will be partially operational before October, 2024.

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The Accord Secretariat has published the first list of suppliers covered under the Pakistan Accord as of 25th July 2023. The Factory Disclosure Report for Pakistan provides an overview of the names, addresses, storeys, production processes, number of workers, and the number of signatory brands sourcing from each factory. This list comprises information on over 400 factories supplying 52 Pakistan Accord signatory brands, and it is expected to grow further as more recent

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signatories disclose their supplier information in the coming days.

In an official statement,

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Muhammad Amjad Saeed Khwaja, Senior

Vice Chairman of PHMA, stressed the significance of affordable electricity in laying a robust and consistent foundation for the growth of the industrial sector. He emphasized that electricity stands as a fundamental necessity to sustain industrial operations.

An increase in its tariff within this sector would escalate input costs, subsequently driving up product prices and rendering them less competitive in global markets.

Textile Briefs International In the midst of a challenging global economic downturn within the apparel sector, Bangladesh demonstrated noteworthy resilience by increasing its share in the global garment trade from 6.4 percent in 2021 to an impressive 7.9 percent in 2022, as reported by the World Trade Organization.

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China's textile, clothing, and accessory exports in the first half of 2023 amounted to $142.677 billion, as reported by the General Administration of Customs of China. This figure signifies an 8.35 percent decline compared to the same period in 2022. Notably, garment exports experienced a 5.9

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8

percent reduction during this phase.

Researchers in Denmark have achieved a breakthrough in textile recycling, offering a promising stride towards sustainability and textile waste reduction within the fashion industry.

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Better Cotton, recognized as the world's largest cotton sustainability initiative, and the Cotton Egypt Association (CEA), responsible for the advocacy and protection of Egyptian cotton globally, have unveiled a strategic partnership aimed at extending the reach of the Better Cotton program in Egypt.

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Armedangels, the popular German denim label, has unveiled a

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

groundbreaking pair of jeans crafted entirely from 100 percent recycled cotton.

Impressively, nearly 99.62 percent of this material stems from either natural fibers or recycled sources, marking a notable innovation within this season's DetoxDenim range, as confirmed by the company.

In the period of AprilJuly 2023, India's textile and apparel exports faced a decline of 13.55%, amounting to $10,154.83 million, as compared to $11,746.57 million during the same period in the previous fiscal year. According to data released by the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, key segments like export of cotton yarn, fabric, madeups, handloom products, and

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man-made yarn, fabric, and made-ups observed notable decreases. Cotton yarn, fabric, made-ups, and handloom product exports decreased by 8.34% to $3,767.83 million, while man-made yarn, fabric, and made-ups dropped by 12.07% to $1,551.12 million. Apparel exports fell by 17.64% to $4,835.88 million in April-July 2023 compared to the same period the previous year.

A noticeable shift in shopping trends among Türkiye’s youth reflects a growing awareness of the necessity for sustainable and environmentally responsible practices within the fashion industry.

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News & Views

Gap Inc. Makes Groundbreaking Move by Joining Pakistan Safety Accord, Setting a Precedent for Brand-Labor Agreements in the US In a significant stride towards ensuring the welfare of workers, Gap Inc. has officially endorsed the Pakistan Accord on Health & Safety in the Textile & Garment Industry. This marks a notable accomplishment, with the parent company of Athleta, Banana Republic, Gap, and Old Navy taking a pivotal step to uphold worker rights and enhance safety measures in their supplier factories across Pakistan.

10 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

The Worker Rights Consortium, a prominent workers' advocacy group, commends Gap Inc. for this decision and urges fellow American brands to follow suit by signing this pivotal safety agreement. By binding themselves to this accord, brands can actively contribute to safeguarding the lives and well-being of their workers within the supplier factories situated in Pakistan.

The establishment of the Pakistan Accord emerged as a collaborative effort between apparel brands and worker organizations in December 2022. The accord currently boasts 65 company signatories, encompassing over 450 factories that collectively employ nearly a million workers. However, it is observed

that the participation of US brands has trailed significantly behind that of their European counterparts, even though American Eagle Outfitters and PVH (Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger) demonstrated early engagement.

Scott Nova, Executive Director of the Worker Rights Consortium, emphasized the significance of Gap's commitment, predicting a domino effect that could prompt additional signatories from the United States. Nova asserted, "Gap signing on is a substantial development and is likely to encourage more brands from the United States to follow suit. The spotlight is now on brands like Levi's, Target, Urban Outfitters, and others to align with this important initiative.”

Addressing safety issues within Pakistan's garment and textile factories necessitates a collective approach, recognizing that this systemic issue transcends any one brand or retailer.

Pakistan has witnessed tragic incidents, such as the 2012 Ali Enterprises factory fire in Karachi, claiming over 250 lives, marking the deadliest fire in the global garment industry's history. Voluntary auditing systems have proven inadequate in protecting workers, as factory-related injuries and fatalities persist. Notably, at least 19 deaths and injuries were reported just last year. The Pakistan Accord stands as a crucial model to address these concerns.

Key attributes of the Pakistan Accord include: Legal binding for brands Comprehensive inspections to identify hazards, followed by time-bound renovation strategies to eliminate risks  Provision of resources to suppliers for necessary renovations  Ensuring the well-being of all workers within the brand's supply chain  Offering workers a confidential channel to report urgent safety and health issues, leading to swift corrective actions  Maintaining exceptional public transparency to document performance Gap Inc.'s commitment to the Pakistan Accord underscores the vital role brands play in safeguarding the lives and dignity of workers. This move sets an encouraging precedent for other US brands to prioritize worker safety and wellbeing in their global operations.  

Marks & Spencer plans to boost textile imports from Pakistan The British multinational retailer Marks & Spencer Group wants to increase its imports of textile products from Pakistan, such as woven garments, denim, and towels.

Unsal Erdogan, Marks & Spencer Group country manager for Turkey, said during a meeting with the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) on Monday that M&S experts will visit Pakistan in September to interact with the textile mills.

Funda Binoz, M&S’s business area manager for menswear, homeware, lingerie, outlets, and merchandisers Buket Ferreira and Seher Sbirakmaz, led the delegation.

Erdogan stated that the group will import woven garments, denim, socks, towels, graphic design Tshirts, and polo shirts from Pakistan.

According to APTMA, the delegation members expressed interest in learning more about Pakistan’s textile industry’s potential and upcoming challenges.

Hamid Zaman, APTMA Chairman for the North Zone, invited the M&S delegation to open sourcing offices in Pakistan.

He believed that GSP+ allows Pakistani exports to compete with competitors such as Bangladesh and Sri Lanka, as well as opening a window for Pakistani exports to Europe. Zaman was optimistic that Pakistan’s GSP+ status would be extended.

“Pakistan is complying with 27 conventions relating to human rights, environment, labor rights, narcotics control, corruption control, gender rights etc.

The country’s compliance with six new conventions will further uplift Pakistan’s image,” he said.

Former APTMA chief Aamir Fayyaz stated that the textile industry has the potential to increase exports to $50 billion if more stitching units are established in the country.

News & Views addressed potential difficulties and said that the acquisition of high-quality fabrics is a challenge. At present, more than 80% of the surface accessories are imported, which greatly hinders the company’s pace of expanding its industrial scale.

Therefore, Huang Weiguo, chairman of the board, decided to increase investment in Lahore and purchased 550 acres of land, and obtained the qualification of a special economic zone from the Pakistani government. It is the only wholly foreign-owned special economic zone approved.

According to Fayyaz, the textile industry has a competitive advantage in terms of labour wages, currency depreciation, and a young workforce in the country.

the current fiscal year 2023-24 and remained $2.057 billion compared to $2.356 billion in June 2023, as per latest data released by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.

Pakistan’s textile exports slump continues in July: APTMA

On a year-on-year (YoY) basis, exports witnessed a decline of 8.57% and were recorded at $2.057 billion in July 2023 against the exports of $2.250 billion in July 2022.

Pakistan’s textile sector exports witnessed a significant decline of 15% in July, clocking in at $1.31 billion compared to $1.54 billion recorded in the same month of the previous year, showed provisional data released by the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) on Wednesday.

Data showed the country’s textile exports in the first seven months of 2023 decreased by 21% to $9.09 billion, declining from $11.48 billion a year earlier.

The decline is concerning for Pakistan, which is heavily dependent on exports to generate much-needed foreign exchange, as it deals with low reserves.

Although forex reserves held by the State Bank of Pakistan (SBP) have improved significantly, currently trading at $8.2 billion amid inflows from the International Monetary Fund (IMF) and bilateral partners including Saudi Arabia and UAE, reserves remain under pressure on account of external debt servicing.

Meanwhile, the country’s exports declined by 12.68% on a month-onmonth (MoM) basis in the first month of

12 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

Meanwhile, Pakistan’s trade deficit narrowed by 13.35% on a MoM basis and remained $1.607 billion in July 2023 compared to $1.863 billiozn in June 2023.

Chinese co-planning to establish ‘textile park’ in Lahore Optimistic about the huge advantages of Pakistan’s textile industry, Challenge Fashion (Pvt.) Ltd is planning to invest 150 million US dollars in 3-5 years.

Chinese Textile Company is planning to construct a textile park in Lahore spreading over 550 acres. The company will start its construction from January, 24 and it will be partially operational before October, 2024.

Karen Chen, CEO of Challenge Fashion, Pakistan will earn 500 million US dollars of foreign exchange. It will also create 30,000 jobs every year after it is fully completed. At the same time, it is expected to drive additional investment Karen Chen, CEO of Challenge Fashion,

The company plans to build the park into the most innovative and sustainable textile industry base in South Asia, show China’s park design concept and construction standards to Pakistani counterparts, promote the most efficient and environmentally friendly automated fabric production equipment and garment production system, and spread modern production management science.

She said that the establishment of a supply chain cluster will help improve Pakistan’s labor structure and management. “We hope to demonstrate China’s industrial park standards to our Pakistani counterparts by creating a Chinese-regulated industrial park project.

We can enable Chinese enterprises interested in overseas layout to see Pakistan’s investment potential, and also provide project landing sites for SMEs so that they can fully enjoy the preferential investment policies provided by the Pakistani government.”

According to Karen Chen, “the tarifffree treatment of textiles exported to the EU, together with China’s Free Trade Agreement, can guarantee the price edge of Pakistani products. Pakistani fabrics exported to Africa or Jordan can enter North America without tariffs, and the route is much shorter than from East Asia.” She said that Challenge Fashion will continue its efforts to promote Pakistan’s textile exports.

Karen also said that in response to the call of the country’s One Belt One Road strategy, Shanghai Yuanyi Industrial Co., Ltd. invested in Pakistan in 2014 to establish the first overseas export-oriented garment manufacturing enterprise, which is the third outside the two production bases in Shanghai and Hubei.

News & Views Challenge has always been based on the technological innovation of fabrics as its core competitiveness. Its products have been selected into the national team uniforms for the Winter Olympics, and have been awarded the single champion of the manufacturing industry by the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology.

First Supplier List For Pakistan Accord Signatories The Accord Secretariat has published the first list of suppliers covered under the Pakistan Accord as of 25th July 2023. The Factory Disclosure Report for Pakistan provides an overview of the names, addresses, storeys, production processes, number of workers, and the number of signatory brands sourcing from each factory.

PHMA demands withdrawal of increase in electricity tariff

considering the current precarious state

This list comprises information on over 400 factories supplying 52 Pakistan Accord signatory brands, and it is expected to grow further as more recent signatories disclose their supplier information in the coming days.

The Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers & Exporters Association (PHMA) has urgently requested the reversal of the recent electricity tariff hike for the industrial sector. This step is seen as crucial for boosting national exports.

that extending peak hours by 2 hours

“This list holds immense value for us and all our stakeholders. Instead of merely naming the facilities supplying to our Pakistan Accord signatories, the data points in this list provide important details on the structure, floors, workforce size, and active brands within each supplier facility.

In an official statement, Muhammad Amjad Saeed Khwaja, Senior Vice Chairman of PHMA, stressed the significance of affordable electricity in laying a robust and consistent foundation for the growth of the industrial sector. He emphasized that electricity stands as a fundamental necessity to sustain industrial operations. An increase in its tariff within this sector would escalate input costs, subsequently driving up product prices and rendering them less competitive in global markets.

We look forward to this information playing a key role in mapping the Pakistani textile and garment industry and in ensuring transparency and accountability within the supply chains of our signatories,” said Joris Oldenziel, Executive Director, of International Accord.

Khwaja cautioned against the adverse consequences of raising electricity rates during peak hours, particularly

of the industrial sector. He pointed out would exacerbate the situation, resulting in negative implications for national exports.

Attributing the cause of heightened electricity tariffs to rampant power pilferage by influential consumers, Khwaja urged the caretaker government to take resolute measures against this persistent threat to the national economy.

Successfully addressing this issue, alongside conducting fair and free elections, could offer immediate relief to both the industrial sector and the general public.

Khwaja urged the government to swiftly retract the increased electricity rates for the industrial sector and exempt it from peak-hour charges, in line with the earlier decision of the Supreme Court of Pakistan.

Around the World BANGLADESH Bangladesh shares in the global garment trade increases by 7.9% In the midst of a challenging global economic downturn within the apparel sector, Bangladesh demonstrated noteworthy resilience by increasing its share in the global garment trade from 6.4% in 2021 to an impressive 7.9% in 2022, as reported by the World Trade Organization.

The World Trade Statistical Review 2023 showcases Bangladesh's advancement in securing a higher share of the global garment trade in 2022.

Despite operational challenges faced by the garment industry, Bangladesh exhibited determination in filling the void created by apparel trade disruptions attributed to sanctions on China.

Additionally, Bangladesh maintained its position as the second-largest apparelexporting nation.

China, despite facing sanctions, retained its status as the largest exporter of garments globally, boasting a significant share of 31.7% in the garments trade. It's worth noting that Vietnam, once a contender challenging Bangladesh's ranking in apparel exports, secured the third position in 2022, capturing a 6.1% market share, according to WTO statistics.

In terms of value, Bangladesh exported garment items worth $45 billion

in 2022, a notable achievement.

Vietnam's apparel exports for the same period stood at $35 billion. In stark contrast, China's apparel exports for the year amounted to $182 billion, surpassing the combined exports of Bangladesh and Vietnam by more than two times. This data emphasizes the substantial gap that remains in dislodging China from its prominent position.

CHINA China’s textile and garment exports decline by 8.35% China's textile, clothing, and accessory exports in the first half of 2023 amounted to $142.677 billion, as reported by the General Administration of Customs of China. This figure signifies an

8.35% decline compared to the same period in 2022. Notably, garment exports experienced a 5.9% reduction during this phase.

Despite a brief improvement in May, the downward trend in garment shipments persisted through June 2023.

Over the initial six months, exports of garments and clothing accessories totaled $74.981 billion, reflecting a 5.9% decrease from the $79.678 billion reported during the same period in 2022.

The first half of 2023 also witnessed a 10.9% year-on-year decline in China's exports of textiles, including yarn and fabric. The total value dropped to $67.696 billion from $75.994 billion in the first half of 2022.

In June 2023 alone, China's textile exports amounted to $11.567 billion, and garment exports reached $15.424 billion.

Concurrently, China's imports of textile yarn and fabric products experienced a 19.6 percent decline, totaling $5.342 billion in the first six months of 2023, down from $6.644 billion during the same period in 2022. In June 2023, the country's imports of these products were valued at $1.007 billion.

In 2022, China's total exports of textiles, clothing, and accessories reached $323.344 billion, reflecting a modest 2.53% growth compared to 2021. This export figure for 2022 included $175.396 billion in garments and accessories, and $145.079 billion in textile products like yarn and fabric.

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DENMARK Researchers in Denmark have made a significant breakthrough in textile recycling, introducing simple and effective method to separate polyester – cotton blend Researchers at the University of Copenhagen have achieved a breakthrough in textile recycling, offering a promising stride towards sustainability and textile waste reduction within the fashion industry.

Headed by Yang Yang from the Jiwoong Lee group at the University of Copenhagen’s Department of Chemistry, the team devised an effective method to separate polyester-cotton blends, a persistent challenge in textile recycling. This pioneering process involves utilizing a mild solvent, heat, and a common baking salt.

In their experiments, fabric scraps of polyestercotton blends were immersed in ethylene glycol, a gentle solvent. Ammonium carbonate, also known as hartshorn salt—a conventional baking ingredient for leavening bread—was then introduced. The mixture underwent heating at a temperature of 160 degrees Celsius.

The results were astounding—distinct layers of cotton and polyester fibers emerged within the solution. This breakthrough not only shows promise for scalability but also holds the potential for integration into larger-scale textile recycling operations.

Presently, the intricate task of segregating various fibers within blends poses a hurdle in the recycling process. However, this inventive method has the power to transform how blended textiles are managed, enabling more efficient recycling and significantly reducing the environmental impact of textile waste.

Published in the prestigious journal ACS Sustainable Chemical Engineering, this research spearheaded by Yang Yang and the team marks a significant leap forward. As the fashion industry and consumers increasingly clamor for eco-friendly practices, this pioneering approach could play a pivotal role in propelling textile recycling forward, steering us towards a more sustainable future.

EGYPT Cotton Egypt Association partners with Better Cotton to boost Sustainability Better Cotton, recognized as the world's largest cotton sustainability initiative, and the Cotton Egypt Association (CEA), responsible for the advocacy and protection of Egyptian cotton globally, have unveiled a strategic partnership aimed at extending the reach of the Better Cotton program in Egypt.

Around the World The program, initially launched in 2020 through the Egyptian Cotton Project, a venture overseen by the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) and financially supported by the Italian Agency for Development Cooperation and the International Islamic Trade Finance Corporation (ITFC), sets out to elevate the sustainability and quality standards of Egyptian cotton production, all while ensuring equitable working conditions for farmers.

Egyptian cotton has garnered international acclaim owing to its exceptional quality, softness, and durability. Its storied history, dating back to the 19th century, has rendered it a symbol of luxury and excellence within the textile industry. However, contemporary challenges such as climate change, water scarcity, and fluctuating market demands pose substantial threats to the sustainability of Egyptian cotton farming.

Understanding the critical necessity for proactive measures in safeguarding the future of Egyptian cotton, the CEA has forged a partnership with Better Cotton in Egypt. This revitalized strategic alliance will witness the collaboration of both organizations to promote the uptake of sustainable farming practices. This initiative includes providing comprehensive training and support to farmers, as well as ensuring unwavering adherence to stringent environmental and social standards. Through these collective endeavors, Egyptian cotton farmers will gain the tools to diminish water consumption, reduce reliance on chemical pesticides, and improve soil health, all contributing to a more sustainable and resilient cotton production.

Moreover, this partnership will empower CEA to capitalize on Better Cotton's extensive network of industry stakeholders, including brands, retailers, and textile mills devoted to sustainable cotton sourcing. This joint initiative is expected to streamline market access for Egyptian cotton products, ensuring equitable returns for farmers and bolstering the advancement of the Egyptian textile industry.

Khaled Schuman, CEA’s Executive Director, expressed excitement about the strategic partnership, stating, "We are excited about this strategic partnership

16 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

with Better Cotton in Egypt. By combining our expertise and resources, we can drive positive change in Egyptian cotton farming practices and secure a sustainable future for our industry. This collaboration aligns perfectly with our vision to globally authenticate the legacy of Egyptian cotton."

This endeavor represents a conscientious step towards sustainability, with the brand devising fabrics for their upcoming seasonal collections without resorting to virgin plastics. The jeans’ composition proudly boasts an 80% preconsumer and 20% post-consumer recycled cotton blend.

Alan McClay, Chief Executive Officer of Better Cotton, echoed this sentiment, adding, "Egypt’s cotton is globally renowned, and our renewed strategic partnership with Cotton Egypt Association will allow us to build on our work to make cotton farming in the country a more climate-resilient, environmentally friendly, and responsible activity. We look forward to working with CEA to help Egyptian cotton communities survive and thrive while protecting and restoring the environment."

Founded in 2007 by Martin Höfeler and Anton Jurina in Cologne, Germany, Armedangels stands as a beacon of sustainable fashion. Their commitment extends beyond merely creating stylish garments; their ethos underscores a profound dedication to transparency and ethical production practices. Leveraging organic cotton, linen, and recycled fibers, the brand embraces eco-friendly materials.

GERMANY Popular German brand introduces 100% recycled denim wear Armedangels, the popular German denim label, has unveiled a groundbreaking pair of jeans crafted entirely from 100 percent recycled cotton. Impressively, nearly 99.62% of this material stems from either natural fibers or recycled sources, marking a notable innovation within this season's DetoxDenim range, as confirmed by the company.

Ensuring fair working conditions and adhering to rigorous social and environmental standards along the entire supply chain remain paramount for the company.

Armedangels' laudable sustainability endeavors have been acknowledged through various prestigious certifications and awards. This includes the prized Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification, a testament to the organic nature of their textiles, and the esteemed Fairtrade certification, signifying equitable pricing and favorable working conditions for farmers and production workers.

Their extensive product line caters to both genders, encompassing a diverse array of clothing options, from essentials and knitwear to denim and accessories.

Around the World Eager consumers can easily procure these offerings online through the brand's official website or at select retail outlets throughout Europe.

INDIA India's Textile and Apparel Exports Witness a Decline in July 2023 In the period of April-July 2023, India's textile and apparel exports faced a decline of 13.55%, amounting to $10,154.83 million, as compared to $11,746.57 million during the same period in the previous fiscal year.

According to data released by the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, key segments like export of cotton yarn, fabric, made-ups, handloom products, and man-made yarn, fabric, and madeups observed notable decreases. Cotton yarn, fabric, made-ups, and handloom product exports decreased by 8.34% to $3,767.83 million, while man-made yarn, fabric, and made-ups dropped by 12.07% to $1,551.12 million.

Apparel exports fell by 17.64% to $4,835.88 million in April-July 2023

compared to the same period the previous year.

In July 2023, while the exports of cotton yarn, fabric, made-ups, and handloom products increased by 6.62% to $1,009.10 million, exports of manmade yarn, fabric, and made-ups fell by 10.45% to $390.25 million. Apparel exports witnessed a decline of 17.37% to $1,141.17 million during the same month.

Overall exports for April-June 2023 decreased by 5.97% to $244.15 billion compared to the same period the previous year. The value of merchandise

exports fell by 14.49% from $159.32 billion to $136.22 billion during this period.

In July 2023, India's overall exports decreased by 5.04% to $59.43 billion from $62.59 billion in the corresponding period of the previous year. The value of merchandise exports dropped 15.88% to $32.25 billion from $38.34 billion during the same period. The decline in textile and apparel exports suggests potential challenges in the industry that need to be addressed to revitalize growth and market competitiveness.

Foreign Minister of Switzerland visits Archroma in Pakistan Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, was highlighted for its advanced sustainable practices and innovation in Pakistan by the Swiss Embassy.

Foreign Minister of Switzerland, Mr. Ignazio Cassis who was on an official state visit to Pakistan visited Archroma Center of Excellence at Karachi on 9 July 2023, along with high-level officials and three Members of Swiss Parliament.

Mr. Ignazio Cassis was greeted by Archroma employees at the Archroma Center of Excellence. He inaugurated the

company’s "Wall of Pride", an impressive collection of recognitions, accolades and honors earned by Archroma in Pakistan since the company’s inception in October 2013.

Mr. Cassis visited the Research & Technology (R&T), Application, Analytical Laboratories & Training Academy spread on three floors at the Archroma Center of Excellence and saw the developmental work in progress. He was shown printing of multicolored fabrics along with research based developmental

analysis in the laboratories.

The globally acclaimed ‘Zero Liquid Discharge Sustainable Effluent Treatment Plant’ and the aniline-free* indigo produced at Jamshoro were the two of the main highlights showcased as best-inclass sustainable practices in the industry.

Presentations and discussions were held on continued enhancement of these landmarks with the local industry.

"Sustainable practices of Archroma are most befitting for a specialty chemical company. We are delighted to get oriented with measures taken by Archroma Pakistan not only towards saving water by Zero Discharge Plant but also combating water pollution by producing aniline-free indigo. High standards of quality in the labs can be compared with any other global institution," commented Foreign Minister of Switzerland Ignazio Cassis.

"Archroma is a torch bearer in saving natural resources and bringing the advantages of sustainable practices to the industry as well as the local community.

The textile industry is emulating our best practices in their mills. We are therefore honored that Ignazio Cassis visited us and appreciated our engagement to transform our industry," Mujtaba Rahim, CEO of Archroma Pakistan, said in his address.

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Corporate News

BTMA: Meeting the need for tomorrow’s textile technicians BTMA: Revitalizing West Yorkshire’s Textile Industry West Yorkshire is witnessing a resurgence in its textile industry, with a first-of-its-kind apprenticeship training course for textile engineering technicians.

The region, historically known for its textile excellence since the 19th century, is now embracing digitalization and the localization of supply chains. However, the industry faces challenges due to an ageing workforce and high staff turnover.

Calderdale College has collaborated with the Textile Centre of Excellence (TCoE) and the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) to develop a bespoke Level 3 apprenticeship course, set to launch in September 2023. This innovative program aims to close the skills gap in West Yorkshire’s textile industry by equipping Engineering Technician apprentices with the essential engineering maintenance skills required for the modern textile sector.

To ensure the passing on of vital know-how and best practices, the engineering training at Calderdale College has been adapted to meet the current requirements of the textile

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industry. This unique approach aligns with the new skills demanded by Industry 4.0 and automation, positioning the region for future success.

to find tailored apprenticeship training, the new course aims to address this critical gap in the market, setting an example for the entire industry.

Collaborative Apprenticeships

Filling Skills Gaps for the Future

The development of this cutting-edge program has been a two-year collaboration between Calderdale College, TCoE, BTMA, British heritage weaver AW Hainsworth, and several local textile companies. Building on the success of the Collaborative Apprenticeships project launched in 2022 at Calderdale College, the institution has engaged with over 100 local employers, promoting the benefits of increasing the quantity and quality of apprenticeships. This initiative has encouraged new businesses to introduce apprenticeships for the first time.

Benefits for Employers and the Industry Claire Williams, Head of Employer Engagement at Calderdale College, emphasizes the benefits of apprenticeships for various sectors, citing improved staff retention and a continuous flow of skilled workers.

Recognizing the textile industry’s struggle

Martin Jenkins, Director of Training at TCoE, highlights that the program will fill current and future skills gaps in the industry, particularly in specialized areas where finding skilled talent has been challenging. The course’s focus on both the textile and engineering sectors makes it a natural fit for the demands of the evolving industry. The overwhelming interest from apprentices and employers reaffirms its potential for success.

Jason Kent, CEO of the British Textile Machinery Association, emphasizes that collaboration has been key to the course’s development. Involving not just BTMA, Calderdale College, and TCoE, but also employers directly benefiting from the program, has resulted in an industry-led course that provides exciting career paths for young talents while bolstering the sector with technical expertise and skills, the key to success being collaboration.

Corporate News

KARL MAYER to establish subsidiary in Turkey KARL MAYER GROUP Strengthens Presence in Turkey with New Subsidiary in Bursa The KARL MAYER GROUP, a prominent player in the textile industry, is bolstering its business endeavors in Turkey by establishing a new subsidiary in Bursa. Anticipated to open its doors this coming October, the move underscores the company’s commitment to meeting the escalating needs of its clientele and the burgeoning importance of the Turkish market.

A Fruitful Partnership with Erko: Paving the Way for Market Expansion One of the cornerstones of the KARL MAYER GROUP’s triumphs in the market is its longstanding collaboration with Erko, the regional representative for the group. This mutually beneficial partnership, spanning over five decades, has been instrumental in the company’s

22 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-Septembert 2023

achievements. As the Turkish market charts a promising trajectory in the medium to long term, both entities foresee a positive market evolution.

Strategic Focus on Competences: Unveiling Enhanced Customer Support To harness and mold the vast potential of the market, a strategic shift in focus within the Warp Knitting and Warp Preparation Business Units is on the horizon. Erko A.S. will strategically pivot towards sales, leveraging its extensive regional network. Simultaneously, the KARL MAYER GROUP will take the reins of after-sales service, ushering customers into the comprehensive Care Solutions realm of the group. This transition ensures a heightened level of support, replete with cutting-edge solutions, particularly in the digital sphere, to tackle contemporary challenges. Clients can confidently build upon the tried-and-true foundation.

A Visionary Headquarters in Bursa: A Nexus of Service and Innovation Nestled in Bursa, the newly established headquarters spans nearly 1,000 m² across three levels. The facility boasts a gamut of functionalities, encompassing service provisions, an academy adorned with textile samples and a training apparatus, a repair workshop, and a repository for spare parts. Situated in the prime commerce hub of Turkey, the establishment also serves as a pivotal customer touchpoint.

Axel Wintermeyer, Vice President of Care Solutions at the KARL MAYER GROUP, affirms, “We are here to serve.

Our esteemed customers are invited to engage with us, attend courses, garner insights, consult with technicians, and procure essential spare parts.” As the journey unfolds, textile trials are poised to become a viable endeavor, he adds.

Corporate News

Oerlikon: Up-to-date with original parts & Secure Remote Services SASA Polyester Sanayi A.Ş. and Oerlikon Neumag reinforced their partnership at the ITMA 2023 trade fair in Milan. SASA placed a customer service order with Oerlikon Neumag for its staple fiber systems. The order comprises both original parts and two secure remote service agreements.

Original parts are designed explicitly for the demanding deployment of the systems for which they are intended. Due to their superlative quality standards, they are considerably more durable than other spare parts, hence preventing unplanned production stoppages and saving money in the longer term. Mustafa Kemal Öz, Executive Board Member & General Manager of SASA confirms this: “Cutting costs when it comes to original parts makes no sense. Poor quality in wear parts used for staple fiber systems always has a negative impact – either directly on

the quality of the yarn or on the system performance overall.”

Secure remote service is a ‘good-bye’ to system downtimes!

Remote service has long been absolutely essential in the globallynetworked textile industry. Remote access to systems permits pinpointed intervention, with a degree of accuracy that cannot be offered over the phone or by e-mail, hence allowing system operators to increase their productivity.

And for good reason: unplanned production system downtimes and the associated production stoppages swiftly drive the corresponding costs into the five-figure range. “Remote services can help us prevent or – in the event of a problem – significantly reduce these downtimes”, explains Mustafa Kemal Öz, giving his reason for opting for these service agreements.

And this is also beneficial to IT security, as Oerlikon sets high standards, constantly keeping the corresponding hardware and software up-to-date.

“When customers choose a Secure Remote Service Contract, the requisite hardware, software and all upgrades are included. With this, customers no longer face additional purchasing costs and are no longer under pressure to continually update their technical security requirements. We assume these tasks for them”, comments Robert Jürgens, Regional Sales Director Customer Services for Oerlikon Neumag, highlighting the benefits.

SASA Polyester Sanayi A.Ş., headquartered in Adana, is one of Turkey’s top 20 industrial enterprises and a globally-leading manufacturer of polyester polymers, fibers and filament yarns.

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Corporate News

Markus Wurster, Director Sales and Marketing at Trützschler Group (left), and Osman Balkan, Owner of Balkan Textile Machinery INC.CO (right).

Trützschler and Balkan join forces in textile recycling The cooperation with Balkan Textile Machinery. INC.CO completed Trützschler’s product portfolio for recycling by cutting and pulling solutions, making them the first full-liner in spinning preparation for recycling. Thanks to the combined machinery expertise and technological know-how, customers can produce yarns at the highest possible quality level, turning waste into value.

Trützschler and Balkan are pleased to collaborate in this sustainable mission.

Trützschler is happy to introduce Balkan Textile Machinery. INC.CO, a partner that not only complements their

24 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

product line but also shares values. Both Balkan and Trützschler, family-owned companies, have a significant concern for sustainability in the textile chain. Balkan, firmly rooted in Turkey – a pivotal market for textile recycling, stands firmly by this.

Their sturdy, dependable machines adeptly slice, blend, and fragment textile waste into individual fibers, subsequently compacting them into bales of secondary fibers. These bales seamlessly integrate into the preparation process facilitated by Trützschler machines.

“We are now able to provide a complete line-up of technologically leading machinery which has been specifically developed for rotor and ring

yarns from recycled materials”, says Markus Wurster, Director Sales and Marketing at Trützschler Group.

“Customers benefit from less complexity when planning and executing a mill project. The combined processes from Trützschler and Balkan are perfectly finetuned, reliable and reproducible. And of course, customers have access to Trützschler’s premium service,” he added Osman Balkan, Owner of Balkan Textile Machinery. INC.CO, adds: “I am very happy that we can join forces with such a strong international player like Trützschler. Together we can make a significant contribution to dealing with textile waste globally.”

Corporate News Processing secondary fibers with appropriate card clothing Trützschler Card Clothing has continually developed their card clothing to address technological challenges in processing secondary fibers and enhancing yarn quality. They have particularly focused on improving the flat top, which serves as the core of the carding process. By merging the strengths of MT/PT 40 with the cleaning efficiency of MT/PT 45, Trützschler Card Clothing successfully introduced the MT/PT 45R – the innovative flat top designed for recycled materials. The crucial element for yarn quality lies in the optimal combination of flat top and cylinder wire.

Thus, Trützschler Card Clothing provides an array of cylinder wires suitable for diverse recycling applications, tailored to factors such as production rates, textile waste type, and raw material compositions – whether pure or blends.

Thanks to this specification, customers can benefit from the best possible carding result, long lifetime of wires and high production in recycling applications.

“We are excited to offer our customers globally a complete package for recycling from June 2023 onwards”, says Markus Wurster, “including tearing line, blow room, card, draw frame, card clothing and of course our service and technological know-how.”

MT/PT 45R flat top for recycling

enable manufacturers to achieve a highquality end-product from hard waste.

With TRUECYCLED, manufacturers can rest assured they use the best technology and a reliable and reproducible manufacturing process – the pre-requisite for high-quality yarn made from hard textile waste.

The TRUECYCLED process is based on Trützschler’s technological recommendations and a Trützschler

TRUECYCLED stands for state-of-the art recycling installations from Trützschler.

These Trützschler preparation processes

machinery line-up to ensure ideal results from recycled materials. For example, Trützschler recently worked with a fashion company to make use of their own pre-consumer waste. Thanks to a special combination of Trützschler blow room machinery, the usage of TC 19i for Recycling and Trützschler draw frames, it was possible to create a ring yarn containing 60% of pre-consumer waste – a true TRUECYCLED product. Trützschler customers and partners may use the brand TRUECYCLED for both the process itself and the end-product, as long as it contains a significant amount of textile waste.

From waste to value: Balkan and Trützschler process for the recycling of hard textile waste.

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Dr. Gary Adams, President of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.

US Cotton Trust Protocol partners with Averum to boost sustainability US Cotton Trust Protocol is pleased to appoint Averum to provide additional third party verification support after seeing the highest number of grower enrollment to date. With a 120% increase in grower enrollment since its launch three years ago, the program now requires a significantly higher number of independent verifications.

Averum: Elevating Sustainability Assessment Averum assists agricultural companies in assessing, managing, and communicating their environmental and social sustainability. Their auditors throughout the United States have extensive experience in the food and agriculture industry. Averum’s auditing philosophy revolves around striking a balance that respects the time of agricultural professionals and is minimally invasive.

They operate as a subsidiary of Pinion, a leading national food and agriculture business consulting and accounting firm. Averum will be working in conjunction with Control Union Certifications who have been assisting

26 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

with the Trust Protocol’s third-party verifications since 2020.

Verifications: Bridging the Trust Gap “Verifications play a critical role for the Trust Protocol as they bridge the gap between growers’ self-reporting and actual data, providing assurances to the brands and retailers on the sustainability of their raw cotton sourcing,” said Dr. Gary Adams, President of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. “To ensure we are staying committed to our independent verification methodology as we see continued growth in grower participation, we have chosen to partner with Averum which specializes in environmental and social sustainability, both of which are fundamental components of the Trust Protocol.”

Precision through Proportionate Sampling The Trust Protocol utilizes the square root model for proportional sampling to better represent grower members throughout the Cotton Belt. As participation increases, the methodology remains valid and statistically significant.

Measurable Sustainability: The Trust Protocol’s Distinctive Approach The Trust Protocol is also the only system that provides quantifiable, verifiable goals and measurement and drives continuous improvement in six key sustainability metrics: land use; soil carbon; water management; soil loss; greenhouse gas emissions, and energy efficiency.

Transparency through Data Aggregation The program captures key environmental and social data under a farm-level, science-based system, and reports these annually on an aggregated basis.

Industry Unity for Sustainable Progress The Trust Protocol has welcomed more than 1,600 brand, retailer, mill, and manufacturer members, including Levi Strauss & Co., Old Navy, Gap, American Eagle Outfitters, Inc., and J.Crew.

The summer edition of Texworld Paris welcomes 6,800 International visitors from more than 27 countries The summer edition of Apparel Sourcing, Avantex, Leatherworld and Texworld Paris – which celebrated its 25th anniversary – welcomed nearly 6,800 international visitors from 3 to 5 July and created a new dynamic around an ambitious scenography. Texworld Evolution Paris’ exhibitors are already looking forward to the next edition, to be held from 5 to 7 February 2024 at Porte de Versailles.

New date, new venue, new offer...

The Texworld Evolution Paris trade fairs, held from 3 to 5 July in Hall 1 of the Parc des Expositions at Porte de Versailles, ended on a very positive note. Bringing together more than 1,350 exhibitors from 27 countries, the show was hailed for the breadth of its offering, confirming its position as the largest event in the textile and clothing market. The association with Curve Paris and Interfilière Paris, lingerie products and accessories fairs (Hall 5, 2-4 July), has offered buyers an unprecedentedly broad fashion platform in the heart of the French capital.

A renewed visitor experience This edition, "more Parisian than ever" - also marked Texworld's 25th

28 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

anniversary - was also noted for its renewed design and the quality of the experience offered to visitors: a new TClub space redesigned to encourage business exchanges, a revamped scenography at the entrance to the show and in other areas such as the Trend Forum or the Agora, and a concierge service were all praised by visitors and exhibitors alike.

In terms of visitor attendance, the breakdown by country of the 6,800 visits counted over 3 days (including 200 from Interfilière) reflects, once again this year, the anchoring areas of European distribution: France leads the way (18% of visits) ahead of Spain, Italy, the United Kingdom, Turkey and Germany. In terms of product offerings, this highly international edition confirmed the major balances between the Asian sourcing zones - as demonstrated by the strong Chinese presence, just 6 months after the reopening of the country, as well as Korean and Taiwanese - Indian and Mediterranean, with, once again this year, a highly visible Turkish offering.

Most of the buyers questioned welcomed the decision to locate the show downtown Paris, which simplified access

to a show that was particularly eagerly awaited: in this period of inflation, collection managers tend to redirect their long-term sourcing strategy towards Asia or the Mediterranean region for restocking. Texworld is unique in terms of what it has to offer," says one of the three Spanish buyers from a distribution group who came to Paris together. In two days, we can build 70 to 80% of our collections, by mixing fabric choices for creations that will be made in Spain or Portugal, but also finished products, which we will have made in Indonesia according to our specifications".

"Year zero" for Texworld Evolution Paris This session reveals the changes taking place in a global market that is reorganising itself, and for which the offering must be adapted. “The fashion world is increasingly challenged, with consumers - and therefore buyers becoming more demanding in terms of price, quality and durability, explains Frédéric Bougeard, President of Messe Frankfurt France. We have to do more to attract our visitors and meet their expectations. That's why we've decided to renew our offer, in a new venue with

Fairs and Exhibitions new services, to 'whet the appetite' and make the visit more efficient. Eventually, we'll certainly have to go one step further, and offer our buyers a sharper selection of manufacturers. We are working on this with our partners, and it will be visible at the next edition, from 5 to 7 February in Hall 7 at Porte de Versailles", specifies Frédéric Bougeard.

Sustainability, an increasingly visible challenge A growing number of supplier countries present at the show are incorporating sustainability as a central element of their approach, and are moving fast on this issue.

This key topic has been highlighted in the aisles by the sustainable sourcing itinerary, which enables visitors to easily identify several hundred certified companies. This year, a number of Pakistani and Taiwanese manufacturers have joined forces to promote these aspects with a highly specialised range of products, such as that of Pakistani company Cresent Bahüman Ltd – present on the Sustainable Pakistan pavilion – which recycles the indigo waste generated by its dyeing processes to dye jeans and T-shirts sold by Pull& Bear (Inditex). Also worth noting: Wynist Retail Solutions, one of the 6 companies in the Taiwan Eco-Textiles Collective pavilion, has developed an upcycling process that produces shop displays (found at Uniqlo and Lululemon) from fabric scraps and used clothing.

South African creativity in the spotlight Once again this year, Messe Frankfurt wanted to shine a spotlight on the sourcing zones emerging on the international scene. The July edition featured the winners of the young South African designers' competition, organised

by Allfashion Sourcing Cape Town, Messe Frankfurt's sourcing platform for African production. Thando Munkus Ntuli (winner 2021) and Carla Hanekom (winner 2022) were able to showcase their creations in a dedicated area near the Agora. The event was organised as a part of the Texpertise – the textile business network, one of whose aims is to promote the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) of the United Nations This time the focus was on

empowering women and achieving gender equality. Texpertise comprises around fifty of Messe Frankfurt's textilerelated trade fairs worldwide.

AwareTM and Refact by Indigo, winners at the Avantex Fashion Pitch 2023 Developed as part of the innovation support policy developed by Messe Frankfurt France, the Avantex Fashion Pitch rewards the best projects in the fashion and textile sector every year.

Eight companies were selected to present their projects at the show. The 2023 jury chose to reward the solution proposed by Dutch company AwareTM, which uses a scanner to determine the exact composition of a garment in order to facilitate its recycling. A special prize was awarded to Refact by Induo, whose solution enables the development on an industrial scale of a process for recycling all types of textiles and producing a new viscose fibre with very low ecological impact. The 2023 jury was made up of Corinne Bégaud - headof HEC's Challenge+ programme - Christian Martin - founder of the Fashion Tech Lab and a specialist in augmented reality and Frédérique Thureau - partner and leader of the TCBL textile network.

Organised by Avantex Paris, the international trade fair for innovation in advanced and sustainable fashion, this event gives fashion and textile start-ups international exposure to investors, professionals and the media. CDamslab, De Rigueur, HYPUnderwear, NIL Textile, Redivivum, Terra Ferra and Thesara were finalists in the 2023 Avantex Fashion Pitch.

29

Faris and Exhibitions

DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR 2023 breaks Visitor Record DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR, opened its doors during July 26 to 28 at the Shanghai National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC), welcoming attendees from all over the world and giving the international flooring community a chance to meet again in world’s second largest market, after the 3-year halt due to closed borders. More than 1600 companies and brands from over 30 different countries exhibited, both traditional and innovative flooring products, in an extended gross area of 200,000sqm spread throughout 7 halls.

The total number of visitors beat any prediction and reached 83,594, the highest since show’s birth. The attendance from overseas visitors reached 95% of the already record edition in 2019.

More than 14,000 international visitors came from over 110 countries.

The high presence of the international participants, both as exhibitors and

30 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

visitors, reconfirmed that China remains an important hub for the international trade in the flooring industry and the confidence in the region has returned.

DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR 2023 took place, as in the past, in co-location with R+T Asia - the leading trade fair for the sun shading and door/gate industry in the APAC region, cadex - the international event for connecting, learning and doing business in the design and architecture industry - and others, under the roof of Build Asia Mega Show a vibrant ecosystem representing the diverse facets of the construction, building materials and interior design industries, in a platform which fosters the cross-industry communication and multichannel integration.

Exhibitors conclude a successful Edition “I was thrilled to see the show this year returning to its pre-pandemic level of

internationalization.

It really exceeded any expectation.”

– said Thomas Baert, co-founder and co-organizer of the event as well as President of CFL Flooring, a participating Thomas Baert, exhibitor. “From co-founder and co-organizer of the an exhibitor point event And President of view, our of CFL Flooring participation was very successful. We met most of our old customers and made some important new contacts as well. This platform continues to be a global market place which does not represent China only, but the entire Asian market and beyond.

Despite of the difficulties and challenges, flooring professionals, from all over the world, decided to come to the show, proving once again that this is a hub

Fairs and Exhibitions which allows them to do great business in Asia’s major flooring markets.” – concluded Baert.

The success of this year’s edition was clearly reflected in the applications for booking a stand at the next year’s edition.

Leading companies such as Classen, Daejin, Eletile (HMTX), KDF, Lamett / CFL Flooring, LX Hausys, Unilin, Azumi, Bona, Homag (Hard flooring & Floor Tech), Bulckaert, Haima, Oriental Weavers, Paulig, Standard Carpet (Carpet), Groz-Beckert, Owens Corning, Staubli, Trutzschler, Zimmer (Carpet Tech), have already confirmed their participation at DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR 2024.

hosted various buyer delegations for each main sector segment, which allowed participants to engage in different activities, such as personalized guided tours, one to one matchmaking and networking events. More specifically, 7 delegations of over 100 international buyers coming from 30 different countries, engaged in tailored matchmaking activities with over 200 exhibitors.

The international participants appreciated the efforts made by the organizers to assist their travel, create a foreign friendly environment during the show, provide several types of hospitality services and show them a sincere and heartfelt welcome to China after these years.

The impressive return of the international Buyers

High Participation at the concurrent Events

The thousands of international buyers who filled the hallways during the event, were the main highlight of this year’s edition. Despite of difficulties in traveling into the country, mainly due to long visa application times, the international community showed an impressive loyalty and trust to the show. The organizers

The various forums, seminars and training sessions which took place at the show, saw a high participation and increased interest from the audience in listening to what experts in the various fields had to say regarding industry’s future trends and developments. In particular:

Cadex - an innovative platform for architects and designers, organized in partnership with J&G MEDIA - invited 14 well-known designers from 7 countries, which exchanged with an audience of over 400 delegates their know-how and opinions in a full day event. Through case studies, they conducted in-depth discussions on the aspects of design, architecture, office, exhibition hall, community, health, and human settlements, and discussed how architecture and interior design can respond to the changing needs of the environment, economy, and societies in a sustainable manner.

Multi-dimensional Interior Space Design Integration Forum – made its debut as a high-level industry forum, aiming to integrate the industry chains of flooring, walls, ceilings, doors and cabinets. The event took place the day before the show opening and saw the participation of 120 delegates, targeted discussions during 5 round tables and sharing of 11 different market researches and trend reports.

DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR 2024, scheduled to take place from May 26 to 28, 2024, is set to host an even larger scale event.

31

Rastgar: Forging a New Era of Collaborative Competitiveness Rastgar Group, a frontrunner in the industrial sector, orchestrated a highly productive and impactful business meeting on August 19, 2023. Hosted at the Rastgar Group headquarters in Karachi, the event brought together esteemed service partners from across various regions in Sindh.

The primary focus of this engaging gathering was to fortify existing partnerships, foster transparent communication, and unlock avenues for mutual growth. The attendees shared their unshakable trust in the reliability and quality consistently delivered by Rastgar Products and Sakoon Pneumatics Compressor Services. This unwavering confidence stands as a living testament to Rastgar Group’s unwavering commitment to excellence within the industrial landscape.

A Forum of Enthusiasm and Synergy The event buzzed with an atmosphere of enthusiasm and collaboration, as representatives from diverse industries exchanged insights and experiences. Through dynamic discussions, participants highlighted the promising potential for further expanding their collaborative endeavors. Service partners conveyed their resolute determination to drive the advancement of both Rastgar Group and themselves, underscoring their role as pivotal stakeholders within the industry.

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Showcasing Innovation and Technological Expertise Rastgar Group, renowned for its comprehensive array of Air Compressors, Parts, and Rental Compressors, took center stage during the meeting, showcasing its extensive inventory. The presentation captivated attending partner companies, leaving them impressed by the cutting-edge technology and robust design that characterize Rastgar products.

Leadership Insights and Appreciation Maqsood Zulfqar, CEO, Rastgar Group, shared his thoughts on the successful event: “We are thrilled to

witness the synergy among our esteemed partners as we collectively pursue progress and innovation. This summit reinforces our commitment to nurturing strong relationships that drive the industry forward.”

A Collaborative Future The collaborative energy of the event was palpable, reflecting Rastgar Group’s dedication to fostering an environment where collaboration, innovation, and excellence thrive. The resounding success of this meeting sets the stage for even more transformative partnerships and advancements on the horizon.

Personalia

Renowned material science and polymer chemistry expert, Dr. Sanjay Patel, joins Navis TubeTex to advance company's mission Lexington, NC – Navis TubeTex, a prominent player in dyeing, finishing, and coating solutions, dedicated to providing cutting edge sustainability solutions, is pleased to announce the appointment of Dr. Sanjay Patel. In his new role, Dr. Patel will lead the chemical applications product line, further strengthening the company's commitment to providing the leading sustainable chemical finishing solutions. Dr. Patel brings with him a wealth of experience and expertise that will play a pivotal role in driving growth and advancing innovation in chemical application, coatings, and impregnation of a wide range of substrates for technical and high-performance applications.

With a distinguished career spanning over 35 years, Dr. Sanjay Patel is a respected authority in Material Science and Polymer Chemistry. He holds a master’s degree in chemistry and PhD in Polymer Chemistry from the University of Akron and has led groundbreaking research in emerging technologies for materials and processes. Dr. Patel's deep knowledge and strategic vision will guide Navis towards new heights of excellence and reinforce its position as a frontrunner in the chemical applications and coating field.

"Having Dr. Sanjay Patel on board is a significant milestone for Navis," said Will Motchar, President and CEO. "His exceptional leadership and profound insights will drive us closer to our mission of being the leader in sustainable solutions for chemical applications. We are excited to welcome him to our team and look forward to the transformative impact he will undoubtedly bring."

Throughout his career, Dr. Patel has consistently championed the commercialization of sustainable new products and processes. His accomplishments include an impressive

portfolio of over 25 Patents and numerous papers published in scientific journals. At Navis, Dr. Patel will spearhead efforts in the chemical applications business, leveraging his expertise to fuel growth and innovation.

pioneering new products and processes for the industry. His addition to the team is a testament to the company's dedication to attracting top-tier talent and propelling advancements in sustainable solutions for finishing.

"I am thrilled to be joining Navis and contributing to its exceptional work in the textile finishing industry," said Dr. Sanjay Patel. "Together, we will continue to drive innovation, improve our customers operations, and make a lasting impact on the sustainability of the industries we serve."

For more information about Navis TubeTex, its mission, and Dr. Sanjay Patel's role, please visit www.navisglobal.com.

Dr. Patel's appointment comes at an exciting juncture as Navis focuses on

About Navis TubeTex: Navis is an industry leader known for providing cutting-edge dyeing and finishing equipment solutions for the global textile industry.

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Features

Fig. 2: The new Accotex cots ACC64 and ACC68

Accotex: ACC64 and ACC68 Cots Boost Lifetime Up to 50% longer grinding intervals in compact spinning Accotex demonstrates once again its leadership in the soft cot market with the launch of the ACC64 and ACC68. As a result of sophisticated mixing technology and high-grade raw materials, these cots benefit from an increase of up to 50% in grinding intervals for compact spinning and offers spininers full flexibility thanks to their front-delivery roller interchangeability on Rieter compact-spinning machines.

With enhanced elasticity, reduced dynamic deformation and increased mechanical stability, the ACC64 and

ACC68 cots can process fine to coarse yarns from any raw material. Made of premium and innovative compounds, the ACC64 and ACC68 cots, with respectively 64 and 68 shore A hardness, offer outstanding anti-lapping properties and do not require UV treatment.

elasticity, the Accotex ACC64 and ACC68 display unsurpassed grooving performance which leads to up to 50% higher lifetime (Fig. 1). Of course, it goes without saying that the new ACC64 and ACC68 offer the same yarn quality and grinding ease as the other Accotex cots.

Up to 60 days grinding interval in compact spinning

Highest flexibility

Grooving has a major impact on the lifetime of cots. Thanks to a unique elastomeric structure due to increased mechanical stability and enhanced

The ACC64 and ACC68 (Fig. 2) are suitable for any type of staple fiber and yarn count and can be run on both front and delivery position. Depending on the yarn count and type of fiber, the cots can be switched easily from front to delivery roller and vice versa. This gives spinners high flexibility to adjust the machines to specific yarn counts and fibers without changing the cots, thus ensuring the best possible yarn quality and lifetime.

Excellent anti-lapping properties without UV treatment

Fig. 1: Lifetime improvements of the ACC64 and ACC68 versus comparable products.

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To reduce lapping behavior, an antilapping solution like UV-treatment can be applied to cots. Thanks to new polymer technology, the ACC64 and ACC68 cots offer excellent anti-lapping properties without the need for any additional treatment. Cot maintenance is reduced and machine downtime minimized.

Crealet AG: 20 years of electronic warp feeding expertise Crealet, the world-leading provider of electronic warp feeding systems for both wide and narrow fabric weaving, celebrates its 20th anniversary. The two decades are notable for solutions which fit the special needs of weavers.

At the time, Walter Wirz and Leo Kuster, employed as CEO and Design Manager at Willy Grob, recognized a growing requirement for warp let-off controls with tailored and specialized solutions. This realization came as weaving machine manufacturers were integrating their own electronic warp letoff systems, affecting the relevant part of the Willy Grob business. Johann Georg Schmid and Altmann Holding AG provided support, and seizing the opportunity, Wirz and Kuster established Crealet through a management-buy-out from Willy Grob AG. The name ‘Crealet’ was chosen based on ‘creative warp letoff’.

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KAST history Crealet aimed to offer a universal control system suitable for different applications with the plus to achieve high warp tensions what’s often impossible on weaving machines featuring integrated warp let-off. So in 2008, the UKAST was introduced. It was also a replacement for the KAST 197, for use in wide weaving for ground and warp beams in high positions, as well as for warp beams in free-standing warp beam frames.

This was one year after ITMA 2007 in Munich, where Crealet was a newcomer, presenting its customer-specific warp yarn feeder program for weaving machines.

“We also took the occasion to look for agents in order to get in contact with customers worldwide. We needed to persuade them about our concept for a service that wasn’t widely recognized back then,” Walter Wirz, who was the CEO of Crealet at that time. The young

company’s offer was as individual as the weavers’ needs, e.g. for early developments in the field of technical textiles.

UKAST Crealet built a reputation for developing systems to replace older control units, or to meet the requirements of new applications such as ribbon

Features weaving. The firm’s experts devised a wide variety of solutions – such as selvedge yarn feeders to prevent waviness at fabric edges, and feeders for weaving carbon or tyre cord fabrics.

Always developing At ITMA 2015, Crealet’s selfconfidence and strength were underlined by its new slogan “We Drive You to Success.” Subsequent years proved that the focus on customized solutions was the right one. But it remained a challenge to explain the value of a system which was absolutely tailor-made, complex and individual.

Crealet’s philosophy is that selfsatisfaction should not last too long.

Being good listeners, Crealet experts well understand what customers need. For example, there was a demand for a servo control to offer high precision and to approach and hold defined positions without torque loss. With the control of KAST ERGO, it’s possible for weavers to switch from mechanical fabric take-off to electronic.

Walter Wirz, Leo Kuster, Jorg Schmid, Founders of Crealet

other industry players. Customers can rely on instant professional help from knowledgeable engineers in case of a malfunction. The new controls are designed to provide direct access to the warp let-off system through a remote

UKAST

The show goes on No single KAST solution will ever be ideal for all warp beams and weaving machine types. Crealet takes the view that ‘good enough is not enough’ with its program of various controls. Actually, the portfolio goes far beyond control devices, and includes the entire mechanical design of the system. Only when all components are perfectly coordinated can a system work perfectly.

The Crealet innovation Linked Motion Control was first introduced at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, signaling a new era of warp tension measurement. The advantage of this innovative load cell sensor system is that it allows entering the setpoint at the control unit, ensuring highly reproducible warp tension settings.

Crealet believes its high level of service and support sets it apart from

maintenance tool. This ensures quick and efficient support without requiring a specialist on-site, leading to significant time and cost savings.

KAST ERC (Electronic Rope Control) launched in 2023

Crealet has developed as a one-stop source for comprehensive consulting and solutions, with two key business partnerships bringing synergies and added value. The company has joined forces with COMSAT (core competence in sectional and direct warping machines and creels) and AEI (specialized in manufacturing quality assurance solutions in warp knitting and warp preparation).

The alliances broadened the expertise and range of technologies available to customers.

Crealet upholds the typical Swiss values of quality, reliability and innovative power, living in the pioneering spirit of their ancestors – and facing the textile industry’s new challenges. “We are never satisfied, until our customers are satisfied,” says Walter Wirz, nowadays Emeritus CEO at Crealet. He has never regretted taking the risk to open up the business with his partners. Companions describe him as always remaining modest, despite the success of Crealet products and services and the company’s worldleading position as manufacturer of electronic warp feeding systems.

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Features

The right spindle to make the difference Spindles are at the core of spinning machines and play a crucial role in their performance. With an impact on productivity, quality, energy saving or work environment, selecting the right spindle for an application is key.

Thanks to Novibra’s wide range of spindles, finding the perfect spindle is child’s play.

As the leader in spindle technology, Novibra offers a great selection of innovative and highperformance spindles.

First-ever spindle to run at 30 000 rpm – NASA HPS 68 Famous for extending service periods, reducing noise level, and ensuring maximum durability, Novibra’s flagship and best-seller NASA HPS 68, already convinced premium machine manufacturers such as Rieter, Toyota or top-class Chinese producers.

Installations in the optimum range for NASA HPS 68 – at medium to fine yarn counts and 20 000 to 30 000 rpm speed – represent a completely different type of load on the spindle than coarse yarn count applications. Smaller repeated loads at high frequency occur causing micro vibrations. Therefore, a chamber filled with lifetime grease was introduced as a second damping system. Noise is thus significantly reduced, making the spinning mill a better place to work.

Reliable solution for medium and fine yarn counts – HPS 68 Novibra’s second best-selling spindle, HPS 68, has been a technical revolution in the switch from conical types to spindles with a flat tip. Its unrivalled spindle insert constitutes a base for all Novibra spindles of younger generations.

HPS 68 is the right spindle to spin standard short-staple fibers to medium and fine yarn counts.

Although higher speeds are possible, the spindle outperforms at speeds up to 20 000 rpm with favourable noise levels and long lifetime. It also makes operators’ lives easier with substantially longer oil exchange periods.

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The right choice for coarse yarn counts – L HPS 68 When spinning coarse yarn counts, L HPS 68 is the right spindle. Its unique wharve diameter of 18.5 mm ensures optimized energy consumption and load on the machine driving elements. In most applications, a full cop and high tension of the yarn put a heavy load on the spindle neck bearing – which is increased by further imbalances occurring in the spinning process of coarse yarns. The special design elements of the L HPS 68 spindle absorb heavy loads and ensure the desired harder damping.

The spindle mostly runs with tube lengths from 220 to 250 mm, but it can also be operated with tube lengths of 280 mm, e.g., by wool spinners. While speed increases up to 20 000 rpm are an option, the speed is limited by the desired yarn count and twist.

High speed and energy savings – LENA The latest addition to the Novibra spindle family was especially designed to achieve high speeds with lowest energy consumption and reduced noise. LENA is the right spindle to spin yarn counts of Ne 30 and finer, with tube lengths up to 210 mm at speeds up to 30 000 rpm.

Thanks to the uniquely small wharve

diameter of 17.5 mm, 4 to 6% energy savings can be achieved. As creating a more sustainable future for the textile industry is getting more and more urgent, LENA is an attractive choice.

The right crown for every spindle To leverage on its spindle range, Novibra also provides an extensive range of clamping crowns for underwindingfree doffing. The development of each crown has been thoroughly studied, with only one goal in mind: boosting customer’s competitiveness. Based on the machine type, doffing system and raw material or yarn count, Novibra offers countless designs from replaceable EASYdoff to sturdy steel crowns and from SERVOgrip to self-cleaning CROCOdoff.

On request, Novibra also provides customized spindles without catching crowns for machines without automatic doffers.

There is an ongoing debate about the introduction of a universal spindle type. However, only optimally selected spindles give the best results. Yarn count, speed, lifetime, maintenance, or energy consumption requirements must be considered in the selection process.

Novibra sales teams assist customers in choosing the right spindle to achieve the optimum performance.

Features

Air-Jet spinning at a new level with Rieter’s J 70 The new Rieter air-jet spinning machine J 70 with individually automated, independent spinning units and optimized technology components enables the production of high-quality yarns with maximum efficiency.

Together with the excellent raw-material yield and low energy requirements, spinning mill owners can benefit from low yarn conversion costs. With the J 70, spinning mills are ideally positioned to exploit the growth potential in standard and blended airjet yarns.

Air-jet yarn can be made from a wide range of fibers such as cotton, polyester, and viscose, making it suitable for a variety of applications. In combination with the high productivity, the unique yarn characteristics such as low hairiness and low pilling tendency will contribute to strong growth of this segment in the coming years. The air-jet spinning machine J 70 is the ideal solution for spinning mills – it is characterized by low conversion costs, low energy consumption and high raw material utilization.

The air-jet spinning machine J 70 enables the production of high-quality yarns with maximum efficiency.

Autonomous spinning units and high delivery speed Each spinning unit is now individually automated and thus independent, enabling maximum efficiency and flexibility. Each unit fixes yarn breaks independently both natural and quality cuts. This makes waiting times for the robot obsolete. Up to 20 spinning units can repair and re-piece ends down simultaneously. This allows high production speeds.

A delivery speed of up to 600 m/min is achieved through new technology components. Four robots handle package changes, yarn insertion, and unit cleaning. One robot per side is usually enough, but up to two can operate for specific applications like shorter yarn lengths and dye packages, enabling seamless changes.

Maximum flexibility and efficiency

State-of-the-art individual automation for maximum flexibility and productivit

The J 70 air-jet spinning machine offers remarkable flexibility, revolutionizing modern spinning mills. With the VARIOlot option, it can simultaneously handle up to four different lots, allowing for smaller lot sizes, diverse yarns, and shorter delivery times. Customizable settings

for each lot are easily managed through tube color assignments and separate shift reports.

The J 70 also boasts significant cost savings, with up to 50% less fiber loss compared to competitors, energyefficient drives, optimized suction, and reduced air inlet pressure. Moreover, the machine enables streamlined dye package production, eliminating the need for rewinding after dyeing or bleaching.

The Q 30A features a larger measuring slot, reducing contamination and enabling longer production runs without interruptions for cleaning.

Optional features like foreign fiber detection and weak yarn detection can be added through a software update, eliminating the need for hardware replacement.

Innovative solution for a wide range of customer needs The air-jet spinning machine J 70 offers top raw-material yield, low energy consumption, and simplified operation. It efficiently produces high-quality yarns, meeting the growing demand for polyester-cotton and polyester-viscose blends. With advanced automation, the J 70 is an innovative and cost-effective solution for diverse customer needs.

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Features

Loungewear has been a bright spot for the global fashion industry Loungewear has been a bright spot for the global fashion industry as the remote working model in the post-pandemic era continues to prevail, and high street brands have incorporated loungewear into their portfolios.

As the loungewear trend matures, opportunities exist for brands to better understand how to transition their loungewear offerings to better meet the needs of the consumer.

The new style of living has influenced clothing purchase and usage in multiple ways.

According to a recent Eastman consumer study, 78% of women in the U.S. and Europe selected comfort as their top priority when selecting loungewear. Other findings show 74% of respondents dressed more casually at home and 66% are also choosing to dress more casually outside of the home.

Comfort, fit, and quality are the most important factors driving loungewear purchases for US and European consumers, and they are willing to try loungewear made from new and different fibers to attain the comfort they seek.

They also expect brands to offer more sustainable loungewear options.

However, there is a significant satisfaction gap, confirming that consumers do not feel the loungewear available at retail

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today is meeting these needs.

Loungewear brands exclusively positioning their offerings on other features like sustainability, performance, or fiber content may fall short with consumers.

Brands that can provide consumers with both comfort and sustainability will differentiate themselves in a crowded loungewear market.

The promise of Naia™ Renew from Eastman is exactly to make sustainable style accessible to brands and inclusive for everyone through a portfolio of fibers that doesn’t compromise on quality, comfort, or garment care.

The use of Naia™ Renew enables waste material to be diverted from landfills and offers an innovative solution to one of the fashion industry’s most pressing issues: developing large-scale circularity. Naia™ Renew is produced from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% certified* recycled waste material, creating top-quality fabrics with a 35% reduced carbon footprint. Naia™ Renew staple fiber permits to create eco-conscious blends that are supremely soft and easy care for, which are ideal for T-shirts, casual wear, comfy pants, and home textiles. The versatile Naia™ Renew fiber's tremendous benefits can be observed in its mixing with various materials. Naia™ Renew blended with recycled polyester, modal, and lyocell, can provide advanced comfort performance with a unique natural hand, quick drying, as well as longevity with reduced pilling and dimensional stability.

By using Naia™ blended garment in their collections, brands are not just choosing a sustainable ingredient, but also a certified and circular supply chain: all Naia™ cellulosic fiber is produced in a safe, closed-loop process where solvents are recycled back into the system for reuse. All Naia™ fibers are OEKO-TEX™ STANDARD 100 certified, ensuring no use of hazardous chemicals, and certified

by TÜV AUSTRIA as biodegradable and compostable in all natural and industrial environments. Versatile Naia™ denier sizes can be used in different yarn spinning processes, giving the yarn spinners freedom of creativity for trendy yarn designs perfect for year-round basic loungewear with good quality and a durable look.

Features

Uster Fabriq Assistant – the whole story for quality info Automated data preparation saves time and ensures decision-making security The new Uster Fabriq Assistant is a central platform for automated processing, analyzing, and visualizing quality data from Uster fabric inspection systems. Its three value modules – AI Classification, Quality Reporting and Central Management – give fabric producers the whole story for quality, saving time and driving operational excellence.

Uster’s latest innovation in the field of fabric inspection is an online tool giving a user-friendly summary of quality performance data from every fabric roll inspected in the mill. A range of statistical analysis tools highlight key info through various charts, histograms or trend diagrams. With the new Uster Fabriq Assistant, there is no need to toil over manual data. It’s all automated, so decision-making is simpler and much faster for fabric manufacturers.

Classification and reporting tasks Fabriq Assistant introduces three value modules. AI Classification is at the heart of the system, delivering levels of accuracy and performance that human operators could never match. The Artificial Intelligence attaches codes to each image generated by the Uster Fabriq Vision products. Without this AI Classification, mill personnel would have to spend time and effort inserting codes to each defect at a PC, to carry out a data review. Artificial Intelligence means data classification is fully automated, so producers can save over 80% of the time taken by manual methods.

With Fabriq Assistant, old-fashioned manual data collection and analysis are consigned to history. Fabriq Assistant automatically gathers all the information from connected Uster fabric inspection systems – and applies smart analysis principles to calculate the most meaningful results. The Quality Reporting value module lets managers focus on the most important decisions, based on the guaranteed accuracy of advanced technology.

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Benefits from synergies Fabriq Assistant unites all the data from AI Classification and Quality Reporting. Combining classified details of defects with smart analysis of inspection data gives producers a valuable advantage: Fabriq Assistant not only gives alerts of issues, it also goes a stage further by both describing and locating a problem. This is the knowledge required to enable continuous and systematic improvements to be made.

Combining data from AI classification and Quality Reporting unleashes the full power of the value modules. The real impact comes from meaningful data which is automatically analyzed. “Using the synergies from AI classification and Quality Reporting maximizes the business value for all stakeholders in the production and the quality department,” says Michelle Salg, Product Manager Fabric Inspection at Uster Technologies.

Centralized efficiency Fabriq Assistant cuts down the unnecessary workload on managers, allowing them to focus on steering profitable production. The third value module, Central Management, makes this benefit clear, as all the required data is presented on a unified platform at the manager’s desk, in a real time-saving benefit. It means there is no need to

check for machine alarms or identify finished rolls. Fabric inspection info for all connected Uster systems is readily available at this central platform.

“We have customers who produce thousands of meters of fabric daily.

Imagine the difference the Central Management or Fabriq Assistant with its full capability makes for them,” says Salg.

“It’s not only about managing a large number of machines but also controlling the quality of the whole production.” The dashboard on the manager’s screen shows the number of defects, ongoing articles and orders, start and end time of rolls, and downtime, at a glance.

Indispensable assistant Data from fabric inspection builds a reliable picture, as a sound basis for decisions. Cutting-edge hardware can be seamlessly integrated into production – at line running speeds up to 1,000 meters per minute – for consistent and efficient defect detection. After that Uster Fabriq Assistant takes over.

Automation also allows users to customize their experience in a highly flexible way, to suit their own mill organization, thanks to the smart machine learning technology in Fabriq Assistant. For fabric producers it’s an indispensable route to greater efficiency and productivity.

ITMA 2023 – Groz-Beckert welcomes over 7,000 customers and business partners at its trade fair booth The leading international trade fair for textile machinery manufacturing ITMA took place in Milan, Italy. In total, over 111,000 guests visited the trade fair. Groz-Beckert was able to present its numerous innovations to more than 7,000 customers and business partners, as well as welcoming many other visitors to its booth – including over 280 students.

An international audience gathered at the Groz-Beckert booth: guests came from 84 different countries. The majority of visitors came from Italy with just under 15 percent, followed by Germany with 14 percent, Turkey with 11 percent, India with 9 percent and the USA with 3 percent. For the first time, HR specialists were on hand at the Groz-Beckert booth to look after the student groups, offering the young people comprehensive insights together with experts from the Technology and Development Center (TEZ).

Groz-Beckert presented numerous innovations from its six product divisions Knitting, Weaving, Felting, Tufting, Carding and Sewing at the ITMA. One focus of the innovations was on the topics of efficiency, process stability and sustainability. While the topic of sustainability was reflected in the products on the one hand, a separate area in the Groz-Beckert Gallery was dedicated to the topic on the other. Here it was shown what contribution Groz-Beckert is making to making its own productions and its sites sustainable.

The Gallery also offered insights into general topics relating to Groz-Beckert in form of graphics, animations and videos.

Small explanatory texts provided additional background information. The Gallery enabled visitors to get to know the company from a different perspective.

A special magnet of the booth was the Cooperation Corner of the Knitting product area. Here, two new knitting systems and a new compound needle for circular knitting machines were presented, which were developed together with

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machine manufacturers. In addition, live presentations were held to highlight the successful cooperations in greater detail.

The flat knitting, legwear and warp knitting product groups also had innovations in store: from special application needles (SANTM) and long-life dur™ needles to new modules and system parts.

The Weaving division impressed trade show visitors with its innovative technical weaving reeds. The new product enables the supply in the production of fabrics of high fineness, e.g. for filtration (both wire and plastic fabrics). The division also recorded a special trade show success: the demonstration model of the WarpMasterPlus was sold directly in Milan to a customer in Turkey.

The Felting (Nonwovens) product area presented no less than two world firsts at the fair: a needle with a new notch design and the Groz-Beckert felting needle module for the innovative MicroPunch intensive needling technology (Dilo). Both products met with very great visitor interest.

The Tufting product area presented its proven Gauge Part System for the production of tufted floor coverings. At the booth, customers were able to see for themselves that the components in the Gauge Part System from Groz-Beckert are perfectly coordinated and guarantee smooth interaction.

Various new and further developments were also on show in the Carding product area. For the nonwovens industry, the division presented, among other things, the world's finest interlinked card clothing for reduced crash risk. For the spinning industry, the area exhibited a new maintenancefree reel clothing with increased service life and lower maintenance costs.

The Sewing product area also enjoyed a high number of specific visitors – even though ITMA does not focus on the sewing industry. Interest in the division's various special application needles (SANTM) was correspondingly high.

Likewise, the patented quality management system INH (Ideal Needle Handling) received a lot of attention.

The appearance of the Technology and Development Center (TEZ) completed the Groz-Beckert booth. The TEZ experts presented to interested visitors the numerous opportunities available to customers and partners at the TEZ. In cooperation with external partners, the TEZ can be used as an optimization, development or business partner – depending on requirements and customer wishes.

Overall, the ITMA was a complete success for Groz-Beckert. The quality of visitors was exceptionally high – numerous decision-makers and key contacts were present and visited the Groz-Beckert booth. 

BB Engineering presents novelties and records new order intakes For the first time, BB Engineering (Germany) was an official subexhibitor of its parent company Oerlikon at ITMA Milan – and with success. In addition to man-made fibre spinning (VarioFil® compact spinning line) and fibre-to-fibre recycling (VacuFil® recycling technology), the company focused on introducing its new JeTex® airtexturizing system and left the fair with a pleasing volume of orders.

Innovations in air-texturizing, spinning and recycling With the JeTex® air-texturizing system, BBE is expanding its product portfolio in order to be able to offer existing spinning customers in particular, but also new customers, a finishing technology as well. It is a production line for high-quality air-texturized yarn (ATY). It combines an innovative texturing system developed

by BB Engineering as key component with

state-of-the-art components by Oerlikon Barmag to ensure fast production speed, the desired effects, and the quality of your product. At ITMA, JeTex® airtexturizing had its market launch. It was impressively demonstrated in the ‘Experience Center’ of the Oerlikon stand, which the visitors gladly took advantage of.

Regarding the proven and popular VarioFil® compact spinning line for synthetic fibres, BB Engineering also brought some innovations to ITMA. Higher production capacities per spinning position and improved spin pack lifetime form a new machine generation with increased productivity. The customers' interest in this was already high in the run-up to the fair and could finally be converted into high order intakes here.

The VacuFil® PET recycling system was launched at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.

Over the last four years, BB Engineering

has been working on further development and this time presented its solution for waste-free production of filament yarns. The patented liquid-state polycondensation (LSP) unit Visco+ for viscosity adjustment and control as key component was the main focus and attracted great interest.

High visitor interest and order intake In general, BB Engineering assesses the ITMA as very positive and full of opportunities. According to company, the number of visitors and the interest in the topics of synthetic fibre spinning, fibretofibre recycling and air-texturizing were continuously high. In addition to many discussions with existing customers and interested parties the medium-sized company recorded a level of incoming orders like never before.

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A strong basis for future competitiveness textile machinery manufacturer Mayer & Cie. draws positive balance on ITMA 2023 From circular knitting machines and braiders via upgrades to digital solutions, Mayer & Cie. presented at ITMA 2023 a wide range of solutions that make circular knitting machines and braiding machines even more durable and thereby more valuable, for which the longestablished firm received a most positive visitor response. Mayer & Cie. is confident that its comprehensive (digital) approach will enable it to maintain and extend its leading position in the market. So, the company’s verdict on the trade fair was accordingly very good to good.

From machinery manufacturer to solution provider Three circular knitting machines – a Relanit 3.2 HS, an SF4-3.2 III and the OVJA 2.4 EM – and an MR15/18C/Single Deck braiding machine took up about half the floor space of Mayer & Cie.’s ITMA stand. That reflected the weighting of the trade fair presentation. Along with high-tech circular knitting and braiding

products the Mayer & Cie. focus at this year’s ITMA was on solutions that increase the value and durability of its machines.

They were, in particular, the digital platform knitlink, the new Control 5.0 machine control system, the cameraassisted error recognition system knithawk, almost a dozen upgrade kits for existing machines and the new oiler system Senso Blue RS. “We had an extremely wide range of exhibits at ITMA this year and were able to show our visitors much that was new, especially in the areas of digitization and service, upgrade kits in particular,” said Mayer & Cie. Managing Partner Benjamin Mayer. “Our approach, that of giving existing machines a longer and sustainable life,” he added, “was seen and welcomed by our visitors as making sense.”

Trade fair debut for Mayer & Cie. braiding machine Mayer & Cie. exhibited a braiding machine at ITMA for the first time. The company has integrated the braiding division at is Albstadt headquarters since 2019. “Braiding machines are a part of textile machinery,” said Benjamin Mayer,

Benjamin Mayer; Managing Director

“but we nevertheless saw presenting the MR-15/18C/SD braider at ITMA as an experiment – and are satisfied with the result. The machine attracted a great deal of attention and we were able to make interesting contacts.”

A positive conclusion on ITMA 2023 Expectations of this year’s ITMA were moderate, Benjamin Mayer said. “War, high energy prices, inflation and recession are the signs of the times. Not even an ITMA is going to change that.” In addition, there had been serious problems with the issue of visas that had made it impossible for many potential visitors to attend the trade fair.

The Mayer & Cie. management therefore judged its success not by the general demand but by the positive visitor feedback. “For us that was an indicator of our future competitiveness,” said CEO Benjamin Mayer, “and we can definitely be sure of that with our developments.”

So, Mayer & Cie.’s verdict on ITMA 2023 is very good to good.

A remarkable team performance

Mayer & Cie. team and agents at their traditional get-together.

46 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

“That we were able to present such a wide range of innovations at ITMA testifies to our team’s high level of competence and commitment,” Benjamin Mayer said. “We thank all of our colleagues for their input before, during and after the fair.”

The address of innovations in cots grinding machines, Asteks, continued its success at ITMA 2023 Asteks, participating in ITMA 2023, which brought the global textile industry together after four years, has become a favourite destination for new investments of textile manufacturers with its apron and cots as well as its advanced grinding technology.

Asteks, a specialist in durable and long-lasting apron and cots as well as advanced grinding and automation technologies, met with the global textile industry at ITMA 2023, the international textile machinery exhibition held on June 8-14. Sharing its latest solutions and corporate vision during the exhibition in Milan, Asteks achieved strong expectations for the second half of 2023 and 2024. While the new generation 401SF&M cots grinding machine exhibited at the Asteks booth attracted great interest from the visitors, the latest R&D solution UV-305 cots surface treatment machine, which can work integrated with this solution, was also introduced for the first time.

Asteks Marketing and Sales Manager Sabri İlknur said the following in his evaluation of the exhibition; “There were serious growth expectations on a global scale after the ITMA 2019 in Barcelona was completed with great success.

48 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

However, with the pandemic that broke out at the end of the year, there was recession in all markets and interruptions in the supply chain. Therefore, serious problems arose in investments and orders at numerous points. With the pandemic behind us, ITMA 2023 in Milan has gained great importance for the sector in this period of re-normalisation and growth dynamics have increased their effectiveness. As Asteks, we achieved a result that met our expectations at ITMA 2023, which we attended in order to strengthen our connection with the revitalised markets and reach potential new customers. The real success of ITMA will be determined by the conversion of the meetings at the exhibition into real sales agreements later on. We received very positive signals in this direction.”

401-SF&M and UV-305 integration attracted the attention of textile manufacturers Asteks, highlighting its rich product range and expertise in grinding during ITMA 2023, had the opportunityto directly introduce its technologies, which are 100% the product of its own R&D

studies, as well as its apron and cots recognised in the global market. The new generation high efficiency 401-SF&M Grinding Machine exhibited at the booth was closely examined by the visitors and made an impression with its performance and automation capability. UV-305 cots surface treatment machine, the newest of Asteks product portfolio, was also introduced to the visitors for the first time.

UV-305, which can work integrated with 401-SF&M, sets new standards for the operating efficiency and grinding quality of spinning mills.

Sabri İlknur stated that the textile industry has started to experience a serious transformation due to digitalisation and sustainability demands, and explained that the solutions they introduced at the exhibition have the design and functional features to respond to these demands. İknur continued his words as follows; “Asteks has gone beyond positioning itself only as an apron and cots manufacturer and has transformed into a technology company. We underline our identity as a technology manufacturer in all exhibitions we attend and introduce the solutions we have developed. These two integrated solu-

tions, which we introduced at ITMA, speed up and facilitate the work in the grinding departments, while preventing manual errors and increasing working comfort. With its high automation capability and functionality, our 401-SF&M cots grinding machine has gained great appreciation since the first day it was introduced to the market. Our new UV305 cots surface treatment machine that we developed in the next step to make the grinding process continuous and automated, offers a significant capacity increase to enterprises. It is not possible for Industry 4.0, digitalisation and sustainability demands not to affect the grinding departments, and as Asteks, we have shown that we offer pioneering solutions to textile manufacturers in this regard.”

Asteks welcomed visitors from all points of the global market at its booth Sabri İlknur said that they met with textile manufacturers from various markets during the exhibition and added that they hosted visitors from target markets as well as existing markets. İlknur stated that visitors from Türkiye, Uzbekistan, Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, Romania, Poland, Bulgaria, Italy, Turkmenistan and South American countries reached significant numbers. Noting that there is an increase in demand in the markets where textile production is present, İlknur said that the effect of the ITMA 2023 exhibition on orders and sales can be seen more clearly by the end of the year.

İlknur reminded that they have a wide product range and explained that in addition to apron and cots types and grinding machines, solutions such as cots fitting presses, measuring devices, cots UV device, felt cleaning machine were also considered in the meetings at the exhibition with the investment and operating advantages they provide.

Sustainability and digitalisation are key trends in the textile industry Sabri İlknur said that sustainability and digital transformation were the main themes of ITMA 2023 and numerous companies exhibited their innovations in this field and emphasised that Asteks has been creating added value for textile manufacturers in this field for a long time.

Sabri İlknur noted; “Today, when the climate crisis is being discussed and solu-

tions are being sought, the environmental footprint of textile production is more prominent than ever before” and concluded his words as follows; “The new technologies developed focus on efficient production and recycling processes as well as saving raw materials and energy.

There are now new criteria at each stage of the supply chain in textile production.

As Asteks, we contribute to minimising the carbon footprint of textile manufacturers with the long-lasting and durable aprons and cots we develop and produce in spinning. In addition, our new technologies with high automation capability not only eliminate manual errors in the grinding process, but also guarantee standardised quality and long-lasting operation. Our new solutions are developed on the axis of digitalisation, Industry 4.0 and of course sustainability and are praised in the market.”

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Monarch Knitting Machinery will be unveiling four of its latest circular knitting machines in Milan.

Complete control with the BTMA at ITMA 2023 As the birthplace of spinning, weaving and knitting – and virtually all other related supply chain processes – a vast knowledge bank on how best to effectively run modern and vertically-integrated textile manufacturing plants has been built up in the UK. This is reflected in the leading position that has been established by members of the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) in the areas of testing, instrumentation and machine control that will be highlighted at the forthcoming ITMA 2023 in Milan.

“An extensive range of technologies and services from the UK will be on display in Milan, with over 30 of our members in attendance,” says BTMA CEO Jason Kent. “Some of their most recent developments are really going beyond what has previously been possible.”

Reading the patterns These include the ground breaking new fabric inspection technique for accurately detecting the most subtle of defects on patterned fabrics during high speed production developed by Shelton Vision (Hall 18, stand A304a).

This patent-pending system has been integrated into the company’s WebSpector platform and is already fully validated, with the first industrial installations now in place.

Vision Managing Director and CEO Mark Shelton.

“Building on our market leading vision system for plain textiles, we have developed BTMA CEO Jason Kent template matching techniques for the resolution of complex pattern deformations in order for the system to pick up defects in the pattern as well as underlying defects.”

Traditional methods for defect detection rely on human inspection with detection rates under 65%, while the Shelton WebSpector machine vision system offers automated defect detection of over 97%, but until now has been restricted to plain textiles.

Colour assessment

“What our new system does is essentially make the ‘good’ pattern invisible to the detection software,” explains Shelton

The company’s light booths and lighting cabinets are specified by major global retailers around the world, who rely on them for establishing and maintaining visual quality standards across their supply chains.

In another important new introduction, VeriVide (Hall 4, stand B204) will introduce UltraView – its first all-LED light booth for achieving a new level of consistent and standardised colour assessment.

UltraView brings a range of sustainable new benefits to designers, mills and brands, and combined with VeriVide’s highly successful DigiEye system for noncontact colour measurement and digital imaging, can have a very positive impact on a company’s bottom line, bringing savings in time, money and CO2 emissions.

IR bonding Roaches international will introduce its IR Bonder – a single end bond applicator and infrared (IR) curing chamber with extremely low electrical consumption.

50 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

Roaches international is another globally recognised manufacturer and supplier of laboratory dyeing and finishing equip-

ment and textile performance testing instruments for major brands.

On its largest ITMA stand to date (Hall 4, stand E302), the company will introduce its IR Bonder – a single end bond applicator and infrared (IR) curing chamber with extremely low electrical consumption.

The IR Bonder is integrated with a single head winder and has a potentially broad range of application markets such as the automotive and medical sectors.

Its drying mechanism simulates current coating technology and standard winding equipment to bond sewing threads by the application of a nylon terpolymer, which is applied in solution form. The solution – comprised of ethanol/methanol and water – is evaporated and the thread cooled before being lubricated and wound onto either an intermediary or final spool. Available with up to six positions, the system has a running speed of up to 600 metres per minute.

Roaches will also be soft launching its Luft performance haptics tester, developed with Leeds University, to enable a heightened understanding of how specific garments will feel and perform.

Digitalisation Monarch Knitting Machinery will be unveiling four of its latest circular knitting machines at stand E105-6 in Hall 4, along with new design simulation software and the MMS (Monarch Monitoring System) for Industry 4.0 taking fabric digitalisation to the next level.

MMS, developed with partner BMS (Belgium Monitoring Systems) not only monitors knitting machines but also all manufacturing and logistical activities within the knitting factory.

Sensors from Dent Instrumentation have become the standard throughout the textile industry.

yarn spinning and winding processes and they have become the standard throughout the textile industry, recognised for their quality, performance and value.

They are used by major manufacturers of textiles and textile machinery under either Dent or OEM machine builder brands.

The highly accurate sensors are effective at speeds as low as 3m/min up to 8,000m/min, and their detection response can be adapted to each individual unit according to customer requirements.

The ‘fit and forget’ sensors are extremely durable in all operating environments and encapsulated in epoxy resin to provide protection from spin finish, oil, wax, water and any other potential contaminants. A unique optical compensation system also contributes to ensuring very little cleaning is required.

Emphasis “Sustainability, circularity and Industry 4.0 have been the primary themes coming from the market for some time now and our members have responded with innovations spanning the entire supply chain, and with a specific emphasis in many cases on improved software and digitised control solutions,” says Jason Kent in conclusion.

Founded in 1940, the British Textile Machinery Association actively promotes British textile machinery manufacturers and their products to the world. The nonprofit organisation acts as a bridge between its members and the increasingly diverse industries within the textile manufacturing sector.

In addition, Monarch will introduce a new concept for fabric simulation which allows designers to develop fabrics digitally. The software simulates the design in 2.5D and creates the pattern data for the machine using the most appropriate stitch formation, allowing for the creation of fabric collections and or pre-selections prior to production.

Dent sensors Sensors from Dent Instrumentation (Hall 3, stand E302) are integral to the

The new Shelton fabric inspection technique for accurately detecting the most subtle of defects on patterned fabrics.

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EvoSteam process paves the way for more sustainable staple fiber production Oerlikon presented new staple fiber process at ITMA 2023 World premiere at the international ITMA trade fair in Milan: for the first time, Oerlikon presented its innovative new development, the EvoSteam, for manufacturing PET staple fibers. Visitors to the Oerlikon trade fair stand were extremely interested in the new, innovative technology, with business discussions very clearly showing that the new development fulfills the needs of potential clients. The EvoSteam process convinces both in terms of its energy, water and raw material savings and also with regards to lowering operating expenses and the carbon footprint – simultaneously with excellent fiber qualities.

Visitors to the trade fair spoke about a pioneer for more sustainable staple fiber production. “This shows that our cus-

52 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

tomers have understood that the EvoSteam process has tremendous potential and represents a huge step forward”, comments Martin Rademacher, Head of Sales Oerlikon Neumag, thrilled by the across-the-board positive trade fair feedback in Milan.

Performance in numbers When developing the EvoSteam process, our engineers focused both on fiber quality and in particular also on sustainability, energy efficiency and reducing the consumption of resources. Compared to conventional staple fiber systems, an increase in efficiency of up to 12%, a reduction in production waste of up to 50% along with energy savings of up to 8% speak a very clear language. With water savings of up to 10 million liters per annum and a lowering of the carbon footprint by up to 20%, this Oerlikon system helps fiber manufacturers achieve their sustainability targets.

EvoSteam process dispenses with liquid baths 10 million liters less water: the function of the immersion bath is assumed by a carefully-coordinated setup comprising godets and pulsed spray nozzles.

Consequently, moisture is precisionmetered and added to the process as required. Completely dispensing with liquid baths generates significant savings in terms of water, energy and spin finish, while simultaneously also increasing occupational safety and cleanliness at the production line. “In conventional drawing processes, large volumes of water are used to control the temperature and provide the requisite moisture in the fiber tow. At the end of the process, this water must be removed from the tow again, which is a very resource- and energyintensive process”, states Martin Rademacher. “The sparing utilization of water enables a significant reduction in the requisite drying energy, which trans-

World premiere at the ITMA 2023: the revolutionary new Oerlikon Neumag EvoSteam staple fiber process.

lates into a tremendous cost benefit for our customers.”

Optimized draw point release and improved drive concept Up to 12% superior efficiency: the new, optimized draw point release permits higher production speeds and hence increased production volumes. The fiber draw point is released by a precisely-

focused vapor curtain, is now carried out more evenly and dramatically minimizes the friction between the filaments in the tow. In addition, an innovative drive concept reduces yarn slippage on the godets, improves the process stability and hence increases system availability. Both technological innovations improve the yarn quality demanded by the downstream processes and which play a decisive role for manufacturers’ margins.

Spotlight on reducing waste The development focused not only on resource-efficient fiber production and improving the fiber qualities, it has also been designed to dramatically reduce the waste generated when manufacturing with this system concept. Martin Rademacher comments on this: “With all the optimizations, we promise a 50% reduction in production waste.”

Innovative draw point release using a vapor curtain for improved fiber qualities.

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MS Printing Solutions and JK Group showcase sustainable innovations Sustainable innovation is the light that has been guiding us in our projects in the past few years, it is what our new products are permeated with and it is evident in what we showed at ITMA. Among these products, we displayed our Pigment Solution - a whole system - made up of four different components which together have proven to be exceptionally innovative and useful.

Digistar Pigment 4K –JK GROUP newest and patent pending digital pigment ink. A new formula that doesn’t require pre and post treatment, one of the most environmentally friendly and sustainable ink options, thanks to a 50% reduction of the printing process steps. If compared to the same process made with reactive inks, we have an environmental impact reduced, on average, by 95%; we are talking about decreasing water and energy consumption, but also chemical waste. As per hydric resources impact, for example, we have a reduction of 85%; while when talking about CO2 emission we reach a reduction of about 15 times.

These data come from a study developed

by Next Technology Tecnotessile Società Nazionale di Ricerca. Digistar Pigment 4K boasts a significant general fastness: as

54 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

per EN ISO 20315-M (alkaline and acid perspiration) EN ISO 20615 – M (domestic washing at 40 degrees) all tests showed 5 as results. As per EN ISO 2035 (dry and wet rubbing) we have a solid 4.

All while maintaining a high printability.

Textile Standard certifications are an extremely concrete and tangible guarantee of the sustainable and ecological production of our latest ink formula and its low hazardous profile: Digistar Pigment 4K is certified Ecopassport (certificate nr 22EP00004) and ZDHC L3.

A completely re-engineered version of MS PRINTING SOLUTIONS popular digital scanning printing machine – the JP7 – is another fundamental component of our

solution. We have revolutionised our JP7, both in electronics and mechanics, so that in combination with our new water-based pigment ink it could give the best achievable results. The aim was process sustainability, that is why we implemented a new zero-wastewater recirculation system that will internally recycle a, previously filtered, fixed amount of water in a dedicated tank. Pigment printing already is a waterless process, the only water involved is the one used to clean the belt, with this system we reduce the amount of cleaning water up to 95% less.

In addition, the machine has undergone other various improvements. It has been implemented with the Ink

Recirculation and the Nozzle Shooting System, both developed to work on IDLE and while printing. These upgrades help the customers to keep the ink always running, therefore avoiding any sedimentation; to keep the nozzles active, as a result there is an improved printing quality; to enhance and maintain a sustainable Printheads lifetime. Such enhancements also increase the life of filters and degassers and allow to always offer the same printing quality and nozzles performances within different printing hobs or printing designs, since the Nozzle Shooting System keeps the nozzles active even when they are not used for a specific job or during the night.

Easy-Clean, the new carriage plate, is a further upgrade. It improves the cleaning process of the carriage plate, significantly avoiding damage, while also empowering printing quality and efficiency.

Last but not least, we have also changed JP7 appearance. The new casing is lighter, with an interior space layout made even more rational than before, thus assuring the best positioning of the new electronic and mechanical components.

Gradus, our new dryer designed adhoc to work in-line with the system. It enables do dry and cure in one step, thus having a unique machine where you can insert a white roll and have it ready to be sold. A faster time to market, an almost print on-demand flow and reduced waste are all collateral effects of this solution.

Moreover, Gradus has minimal energy consumption, the best achievable emission control and a modularity that contributes to CO2 emissions reduction in the whole process.

Techincal Improvements

A new software which integrates both calibration and printing software has been designed to make the entire calibration procedure easy and intuitive. The full integration of such software into the system allows to halve the calibration time, increase the colour yield up to 20% and increase the colours brightness up to 15%.

With our innovative solution, pigment printing becomes an easy and waterless process, which enables customers to carry out a sustainable production chain, ensuring a cost-effective printing output. One of the main advantages of our solution is being a full inline printing system which makes pigment printing almost on demand, since no time goes by in between the order and the production.

Our customers have the chance to exploit this inline system, whose pieces have been developed to work together to maximise their output, with a significant reduction in costs, emissions, energy and

Main Benefits

PATENT PENDING INK

It is an innovative formula and a new, original, concrete and useful solution for the market

NO PRE – POST

Environmentally friendly solution that doesn’t require any waste in terms of water, energy and reduces CO2 emissions

HIGH GENERAL FASTNESS

NOZZLE SHOOTING SYSTEM

PHS PROTECTION SYSTEM EASY CLEAN CARRIAGE

NEW CASING

It reduces the waste of fabrics, since you can use a piece of clothing again and again It keeps the ink always running, therefore avoiding any sedimentation, while keeping the nozzles active, as a result there is an improved printing quality and a reduced use if chemicals It enables to fully exploit printheads’ lifetime, thus reducing printheads use It improves the cleaning process of the carriage plate, significantly avoiding damage, while also empowering printing quality and efficiency It is lighter, with an interior space layout made even more rational than before, thus assuring the best positioning of the new electronic and mechanical components, thus improving the components’ lifespan

water consumption. When we started the project, we had sustainability in mind: 45 billion of garment, in the fashion industry only, are unsold and wasted every year.

This is due to overproduction; companies produce more and more in order to respond to market demands and to exploit the advantages brought by scale economy.

Nowadays, it is fundamental to be careful towards our own environmental impact as companies; this is a merit the European Parliament values a lot and it is evident in the commitment to policies and laws created to prevent, and ultimately to end, the waste of fast fashion. The EU’s microplastics restrictions, the EU waste framework directive, the EU Ecodesign Directive, the EU Ecolabel for textile and clothing products, the directive on Green Claims are all clear signals of a requirement becoming more and more urgent day after day. The lack of clarity in the definition of what is greenwashing may mislead the members of the textile value chain who would like to rely on truly sustainable partners but have troubles in identifying them. On the other side, customers who are becoming more and more aware of the importance of supporting companies that work transparently, by working for them, buying from them and investing in them, find themselves with little to no guidance at all, in a mare magnum which is extremely difficult to navigate. There are some key factors to recognise the authenticity of a company’s commitment to sustainability, such as consistency, tradition, actions and certifications. The next steps companies have to take in this industry are clear: no more time to walk, let’s run to a greener future.

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VeriVide’s new UltraView – sustainable colour consistency At ITMA 2023 in Milan from June 814, BTMA member VeriVide will introduce UltraView – its first allLED light booth for achieving a new level of consistent and standardised colour assessment.

The company’s light booths and lighting cabinets are specified by major global retailers around the world, who rely on them for establishing and maintaining visual quality standards across their supply chains.

This is no easy feat, given the textile industry’s complex structure and the many process stages each individual garment undertakes from the designer’s desk to the finished garment on the retail shelf – often criss-crossing several continents during the journey.

Benefits UltraView brings a range of sustainable new benefits to designers, mills and brands, and combined with VeriVide’s highly successful DigiEye system for noncontact colour measurement and digital imaging, can have a very positive impact on a company’s bottom line, bringing savings in time, money and CO2 emissions.

The new all-LED light booth meets all relevant international lighting and colour assessment standards. The UltraView incorporates the company’s A rated CIE D65 and CIE D50 artificial daylight light sources and includes multiple pre-set point of sale light sources while being

VisionView is available with an internal monitor to enable physical samples to be compared with their digital versions, if required.

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fully tuneable for recalibration to the individual requirements of each customer. In the past, individual light booths have had to be dedicated to the stipulated settings of each specific customer’s switch sets. The rapid flexibility of UltraView, however, makes the need for multiple light booths a thing of the past.

It also eliminates the need for the regular bulb changes that were necessary with fluorescents, to provide significant energy savings.

UltraView – the all-LED light booth for consistent and

standardised colour assessment.

As supply chains continue to move towards digiinconsistent surface, a colour area too tisation away from time-consuming and small to be captured by the instrument or expensive physical sampling, a version of any sort of surface effect, such as carpet the UltraView, VisionView, is available pile and the sheen of satin and silk. with an internal monitor to enable physi“DigiEye addresses these challenges cal samples to be compared with their to provide a ‘best practice’ combination digital versions, if required. of lighting and visual assessment princiDigiEye ples, together with non-contact digital measurement for quantifiable and objecFor non-contact colour measurement tive quality control,” explains VeriVide and digital imaging, VeriVide’s DigiEye Sales Manager Adam Dakin. “Unlike a collects and processes data that can be spectrophotometer, the DigiEye system communicated and shared instantly, allows the entire product to be assessed, enabling manufacturers, producers and ensuring that all colours can be analysed processors to speed up quality control, and measured in context with all other sustain product integrity and reduce visual and surface effect elements of a waste. product. It can also accommodate items DigiEye also overcomes the limitations which are integral components of the of spectrophotometers, which are limited apparel industry, such as lace, lingerie, to products with a solid colour appearpatterns, prints and home furnishings, ance and can only that are non-solid in colour and are heavmeasure ‘average’ ily textured. We look forward to outlining colour, assessing the the benefits of the new UltraView and limited area of the our DigiEye system with customers old product exposed in and new at ITMA 2023.” the instrument’s “VeriVide is a family-run business aperture. which has specialised in colour manageThese limitations ment solutions for almost sixty years, and are further comover that time has built up the trust of the pounded if the prod- major brands,” says BTMA CEO Jason uct has any form of Kent. “The company is rightfully proud of multi-coloured charits standing and reputation for service acteristics or appearacross the industry and the new ance, an uneven or UltraView will only reinforce this.”

ITMA 2023: Mahlo looks back on successful trade fair After the rapid and unpredictable challenges of recent years, ITMA 2023 was eagerly awaited. The world’s most important textile trade fair has always been a visitor guarantor, but would that be the case this time? After a week at the Fiera di Milano, it is clear: expectations were exceeded many times over. The stand of the German machine builder Mahlo GmbH + Co KG was bustling from the first to the last day.

“We are more than satisfied with the way ITMA went,” says Mahlo CEO Rainer Mestermann. “After the events of the last few years, we could not automatically expect such a large crowd at our stand and at the entire fair.”

The interdisciplinary team at the stand in Hall 18, consisting of sales, application technology and service staff from Germany as well as the international sales and service partners, received visitors from all parts of the world. “Of course, there was a strong influx from Italy, but Turkey, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Latin America were also particularly well represented, in our estimation.” The number of guests from China was somewhat lower, but this is understandable, as ITMA Asia is due to take place there later this year.

At the Mahlo stand, guests could inform themselves about the product portfolio and the latest developments of the machine manufacturer for process optimisation in textile finishing. The visitors felt very well looked after by the internal and external team. “A workshop preceding the ITMA at the headquarters in Saal guaranteed that all contact persons of the target markets were up to date with the latest developments.” This expertise was then in demand virtually around the clock.

Energy saving methods on top of clients’ agenda The topics of quality, energy saving and return on investment were at the top of the agenda for many visitors. This was

accompanied by great interest in data management and data recording. The new X-Series concept for forward control of knitwear with strong distortions was particularly in focus. The Orthopac RXVMC straightening machine, which was presented for the first time in Milan, can remove distortions in textile fabric webs even faster and more precisely. The exhibit was delivered to a customer in Italy after the fair.

Mahlo’s new X series concept convincing customers “With the new straightening concept, special attention was paid to the straightening mechanics and their interaction with the analysis electronics of the scanner system,” explains Head of Sales Thomas Höpfl. Two individually controlled and driven straightening modules with a total of four bow and three skew rollers ensure that the correction of bow and skew distortions takes place in small steps. The control concept is also new. A scanner group at the infeed of the straightening machine detects distortions even before they reach the correction rollers. This way, the rollers are brought directly into position and the fabric is corrected from the very first centimetre. A scanner group at the outlet also detects possible residual distortion, which is corrected at the second straightening module. This enables an even more precise and faster response when it comes to reacting to rapidly changing distortions. The Orthopac RXVMC therefore shows its full strength when straightening knitwear and distortion-sensitive fabrics. It guarantees higher quality goods and thus less waste.

“Especially at a time when our customers are under increased cost pressure and competition in the textile industry is intensifying, our new concept has been convincing.”

Not only the exhibits proved to be a visitor magnet, but traditionally also the Mahlo bistro with its Bavarian specialities. With the successful combination of high-tech and Bavarian down-to-earthness, Mahlo’s trade fair appearance at ITMA 2023 was impressive.

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Jakob Müller Group at ITMA 2023 “Transforming the World of Textiles” –this is the motto for this year’s ITMA, the world’s largest international textile and garment technology exhibition, which takes place from 8 – 14 June in Milan.

The four official themes for the trade show are “Automation and Digital Future”, “Advanced Materials”, “Sustainability and Circularity” and “Innovative Technologies”. These themes also play a prominent role in the exhibits of the Jakob Müller Group.

Sustainability and the circular economy – these concepts have been more than mere buzzwords for some time now, and today they are fundamental market requirements that need to be met. In view of rising energy costs and the scarcity of raw materials, companies have to manage a balancing act and ensure that production is both sustainable and commercially profitable. However, today this also means increasing use of recycled and biodegradable yarns. With its exhibits at ITMA 2023, the Jakob Müller Group is responding to these market requirements and showing that these types of raw

58 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

materials can be efficiently processed into attractive products on the company’s machines.

All narrow fabric weaving and label weaving machines – with the exception of the MD 2/130 – are pre-configured ready for integration into a network and can be connected via “mymuenet®”, the digitalization portal of the narrow textiles industry. These machines are also equipped with the MLC machine control system and the MÜDATA® M-series control platform as standard.

Narrow fabric weaving The electronically controlled Jacquard needle weaving loom NFMJ 53 4/66 is equipped with a Jacquard loom of type

SPE3, which is loaded with 576 hooks.

The weft and binder thread feeds are controlled electronically, as is the tape take-off, which enables weft densities of 4 to 120 wefts/cm. The supply of elastic threads is implemented via a driven double roller system. The raw material for the basic, figure and weft threads is TENCEL® Lyocell with a fineness of 167 dtex. The elastic threads consist of elastic biopolymer with a fineness of 110 dtex, wrapped with TENCEL® Lyocell. The weaving system produces elastic tapes for undergarments.

In the version displayed at the trade show, the high-performance narrow fabric loom NFM® 53 2/130 has two MÜTRANS® thread transport systems operating independently of each other, which allows different weft materials to be processed and/or two products with different tape widths to be produced at the same time. The supply of elastic yarn is implemented via an electronically controlled and driven double roller system.

The warp material consists of recycled polyester filament with a fineness of 330 dtex. Recycled polyester filament is also used in the weft – with 167 and 330 dtex.

The tape take-off enables weft densities between 4 and 120 wefts/cm. The weav-

ing system on display is shown with an elastic narrow fabric used in the shoe industry. Due to the weight of this product, a special device for holding down the narrow fabric and a reinforced tape takeoff motor are used.

Another narrow fabric loom, the MD 2/130, will be on show at the booth of CREALET AG in Hall 6 at Booth B 306.

The machine is designed for the production of medium-heavy webbing in the field of load securing and lifting equipment. Consequently, the MD 2/130 exhibited at ITMA has been equipped with the “system V” weaving system and can be used for production of narrow fabric widths ranging from 70 to 110 mm.

The MD 2/130 machine is equipped with the electronically controlled warp thread supply KAST ECR (Electronic Roper Control) from CREALET. This control system maintains a constant tensile force on the warp thread – no matter whether the warp beam is full or near depletion.

Measured values are recorded via strain gauges on a measuring roller, the mountings of which are manufactured using state-of-the-art 3D printing techniques.

The braking system for the warp beam takes the familiar form of a braking system with a wrapped rope. However, a new feature is a linear motor at the end of the rope, which is attached to the frame. The position of the linear sensor can be detected at any time with the aid of a Hall sensor, allowing the braking force of the rope to be varied. Closedloop control takes place throughout the entire weaving process and thus leads demonstrably to excellent and uniform quality of the narrow fabric – from the first to the last metre.

NFMJ 53 4/66

The SETPOINT (target) values are extremely easy to adjust via a touch-display, where the tensile forces (ACTUAL values) are also displayed. Calibration of the entire closed-loop control is implemented via a very straightforward configuration menu in the controller. Up to 6 devices can be combined with each other – depending on the number of warp beams to be regulated. With the aid of the USB interface it is possible to connect e.g. a laptop for improved visualisation of the tensile forces. The manufacturer can access the system via TeamViewer. This makes it possible to offer remote services or carry out training depending on the needs of the customer.

Label weaving system The rapier weaving machine MÜGRIP® MBJ8v 1/1380 is a further development of the highly successful MBJ8 series introduced at ITMA 2019.

The machine is designed for the production of labels also with designs in photo quality, fashionable tapes/ribbons, name

NFMJ 53 4/66

tapes and lanyards with slit selvedges.

Slitting is performed with the hot-slitting system TC2. Of the 1536 functions of the Jacquard loom SPE3M, 1208 hooks are used for patterns. The warp consists of recycled polyester (PES-SET) with a fineness of 82 dtex, while the weft uses polyester filament with a fineness of 30 dtex and 250 dtex as well as an effect thread with a fineness of 1400 dtex. Generally speaking it is possible to process up to eight different weft threads, which are fed into the machine via a weft thread feeder of type IRO LUNA X3.

The rapier weaving machineMBJ8v LXL PRO 8192/6912T operates with an electronically controlled Jacquard loom from Stäubli of type LXL PRO, which offers 6912 functions. The machine produces labels with slit edges. Slitting is performed with the hot-slitting system TC2.

The individual control of each warp thread across the full fabric width enables not only pattern repeat widths of up to

MD 2/130

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controlled bars and two bars for inclusion hooks retainers, sinkers. The basic machine comprises two electronically controlled 3-roller feeds and an inverter for electronic speed control. At ITMA 2023 a knitted tape will be shown that is used in sports clothing. The product consists of recycled, textured polyester filament with a fineness of 167 dtex and has a stitch density of 18 stitches/cm.

120 cm, but also the production of individually coded labels. For the first time ever, a biodegradable polyester – PES-SET – with a fineness of 78 dtex is used in the warp. The weft uses polyester filaments with a fineness of 30 dtex and 250 dtex and an effect thread with a fineness of 1400 dtex. it is possible to process up to 12 different weft threads, which are fed into the machine via weft thread feeders of type IRO Star G2.

The high-performance narrow fabric loom NFMJ 80 8/42 768 MC is designed for the production of labels, name tapes and decorative ribbons with woven edges. The machine is based on the well proven NFM® platform and therefore offers significant advantages over predecessor models with needle weft insertion, on which labels with woven edges are also produced. One of the innovations of the new machine is, for example, the direct weft needle drive, where a significant part count has been saved by doing away with the conventional belt drive system, which also results in reduced wear. The new and modified weft needle, which is manufactured using digital CNC technology, enables completely reliable placement of the binder thread in the enlarged weft thread triangle. An additional slot in the weft needle prevents the weft thread from coming into contact with the warp threads of the upper shed, while at the same time also reducing the required tensile force on the weft thread.

All these factors have a significant impact in terms of reducing the frequency of thread breakages. The developers have placed great importance on improving the infeed mechanisms for the warp, weft and binder threads. The intake of the different thread systems has been revised and arranged more clearly. The torquecontrolled tape winder ensures perfect

MBJ8-LXL

60 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

MÜGRIP® MBJ8v 1/1380

winding density – from the smallest diameter to the largest. All of these measures make the machine easier to operate and allow the machine to be set up and adjusted more quickly and more easily – thereby helping to reduce costs in the weaving process.

The exhibition machine on show features a label product in which recycled polyester filament with a fineness of 82 dtex and recycled polyamide-6 monofilament with a fineness of 33 dtex are woven in the warp. The binder thread consists of polyamide-6 monofilament with a fineness of 22 dtex, and recycled polyester filament with a fineness of 55 dtex is used for the design. The product shown on the machine can be sewn as a label with a centrefold in e.g. garments.

Narrow knitting The electronically controlled RR warp knitting loom DNBF/EL-800 is designed for the production of technical and highperformance products and is presented by Comez International s.r.l., a member of the Jakob Müller Group. The double needle bed machine operates with latch needles and offers a knitting gauge of 22 needles per inch (npi), eight electronically

NFMJ 80 8/42 768 MC

Finishing The combined fixation system for dyeing machines MFR 2C can be optionally equipped with a heat recovery unit in order to boost energy efficiency, and it is designed for finishing of light to mediumheavy, elastic and non-elastic tapes. The machine is designed for the fixing of dyes and for post-treatment in finishing. It can be combined with Pad Steam, Pad Thermosol and Pad Steam Thermosol dyeing processes.

The entire system consists of the tape feed, dyestuff application, infrared predryer, combined chamber, eco washing tanks, finishing module, end dryer and tape take-off. The machine is offered with working widths of 200, 300, 400 and 600 mm as well as with multi-tape intake. The modular design of the machine enables efficient integration of customer-specific requirements with tape content of 25, 50, 75 or 100 m. Analog or digital control of the pneumatic dancer rollers is possible.

Gas heating or gas heating combined with steam fixing can be used as the heating system. An integrated washing system enables quick and easy changes of dye colour. The covers can be opened pneumatically, which makes the entire process of cleaning the machine significantly easier. Production data can also be transmitted directly from the MFR 2C to mymuenet®. The system is presented as an individual module at the exhibition.

Fong’s becomes the center for sustainable and smart finishing solutions Fong’s Group, standing out with a wide product range in continuous and discontinuous dyeing and finishing, welcomed the visitors by highlighting innovative digitalisation and sustainable solutions at ITMA 2023. The company’s booth gives the message of sustainability with new machines that have lower consumption figures, which points out the direction of the transformation of the textile industry.

Giving an exclusive interview to Textilegence, Fong’s Europe Director of Sales and Marketing Richard Fander noted that the exhibition improved a lot after the pandemic and met their expectations, saying: “It is a great development because many decision makers and many technicians are here. We see that there are also new technologies, development, and digitalisation. So overall, we see that we have many opportunities to sell, and we finalised many orders this year here at this exhibition.”

Fong’s product portfolio expands with intelligent solutions Addressing that Fong’s Group covers all kinds of machines in the wet finishing, Richard Fander detailed their latest innovations: “One development you can see here is a package dyeing machine, socalled Aimwin, which is the latest development on our former Allwin type. The Allwin type is well known in Türkiye, as well. The Aimwin is more simplified in piping, and it has our latest homemade controlled system FC-68 with artificial intelligence. You can run this machine with autopilot when you take this controller, which means you have at the beginning one program put in by the dire and later the system develops itself to improve the inside out, outside in process, and the length of the whole process. ”Richard Fander emphasised another advantage that the machines also have a health index directly on the screen showing every parameter is fine. It is noted

that this advantage enables the user status of dyeing as well as the other health indicators of the machine such as temperature.

Fander stated that they have developed a new round shape dyeing (hydraulic) machine and disclosed: “This is the first round shape hydraulic machine without a winch. You can work with more material on this machine in comparison to other round-shape designs. You do not create crease marks on the winch by tensioning on the cover. Also, in the back, you have a plaiter working circular. With this circular plaiting, it is possible to plate down the fabric higher in the back of the kier. Since it is more stable, you avoid entanglements.”

Regarding sustainability, Fander added that the water consumption is less per kg of fabric, you can put 300 kg with the same size as normally you have for 200 kg in the chamber. He also affirmed that sustainability is the main idea to influence the transformation in the textile industry and Fong’s provides innovative actions based on this idea.

Fong’s Group focuses on R&D studies of automation and digitalization The firm continues to innovate its machines based on R&D studies based on digitalisation and automation. Richard Fander asserts that digitalisation helps to

improve the processes, which reduces the consumption figures of their machines.

He evaluated that these technologies are very complicated as well as helpful and disclosed: “In China, it is a clear target in every kind of industry to work on digitization and to learn how it can be helpful for running machines and whole plants. It is important to learn which kind of algorithms you can create based on this data to improve the whole process in the plant.

We will see some more developments during the next year. I expect four years later, at the next ITMA you can see the influence.”

“Many Turkish customers think about how to reduce water consumption” Richard Fander said they have welcomed many Turkish customers in their booth at ITMA 2023. He also noted that they are a well-known company in Türkiye and evaluated the Turkish market as: “We had seriously good business last year because many Turkish customers think about how to reduce the water consumption, which is supported by the Turkish government. So, it is easy to show these long-shape machines and Airflow technologies now long-lasting in Türkiye and Turkish customers support us with their confidence to be the market leader there for air driven designs.”

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Autocoro spinning machine at Inovafil

Renewcell x Inovafil x Saurer – the story of a sustainable fiber’s journey to ITMA At ITMA in Milano, on the Saurer booth in Hall 2 B 101, visitors can experience what happens when three innovative companies which are all focusing on increasing sustainability in the textile value chain, meet, and decide to showcase how a new innovative sustainable fiber is turned into yarn. Renewcell’s CIRCULOSE® fiber, prepared by Inovafil for Saurer, is being spun simultaneously in three different spinning applications: air-, rotorand on selected days also on ringspinning.

The ITMA 2023 motto “Transforming the World of Textiles” is excellently chosen, as the upcoming European Union (EU) directives as part of the EU textile vision 2030 set a framework for driving positive change and creating a more sustainable and resilient textile sector within the European Union. The textile industry will look for new sustainable solutions and new business models. New fibres,

62 PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - August-September 2023

using textile waste as raw material, are being developed and brought into the markets. This is especially true for Scandinavia with its long history of paper production. This industry has fostered a deep understanding of pulp processing techniques, equipment, and technologies.

The extensive knowledge in pulp processing has given the region a head start and empty paper mills have offered space where discarded textiles are given a new life.

One of the frontrunners in the new textile recycling development and the first for industrial scale up of production is Renewcell from Sweden. Founded by innovators from Stockholm’s KTH Royal Institute of Technology in 2012, the award-winning, Sweden-based sustaintech company’s vision is to make fashion circular. Through its patented process, Renewcell is able to recycle cellulosic rich textile waste, such as wornout cotton clothes and production scraps, transforming it into a pristine new material called CIRCULOSE® which is then processed to fibers and spun into

new yarn for textile production. Inovafil in Portugal is one of these spinners since the early stages of commercialization.

Inovafil Fiação, S.A. spinning mill was founded in 2011 in Portugal. The company’s CEO Rui Martins is convinced that circular textile fashion can only be achieved with collaboration in all process steps. Therefore, he set up a platform to promote partnerships for closed loop textile projects and to generate groundbreaking ideas for new textile applications. Inovafil has been a Saurer customer from early on, trusting Saurer’s Autocoro rotor spinning machine for recycled fibers.

For decades, sustainability has been an important part of Saurer's vision for the future. As the only manufacturer of spinning machinery for all five endspinning application for staple fiber, Saurer is today already prepared for processing recycled and regenerated fibers. When Saurer launched the new air-spinning machines Autoairo for field tests, Saurer relied on Inovafil’s expertise for the continuous development, and was

shipping one of the very first machines to Inovafil. Recognising the potential for highest processing efficiency, Inovafil was spinning viscose made from CIRCULOSE® successfully on Autoairo.

When the team from Inovafil, Renewcell and Saurer met to share ideas, the ITMA Milano quickly was chosen as the right stage for showing the potential of the new sustainable fiber. Thanks to Renewcell’s kind support and the excellent fiber preparation of Inovafil, the visitors at ITMA can see CIRCULOSE® being spun daily on the air- and rotorspinning machines, and on selected days on the ring-spinning machine as well.

Renewcell has proven over and over again with its partners that CIRCULOSE® is suited for a multitude of textile applications. Saurer is grateful for the opportunity to show the flexibility of the fiber on its spinning portfolio, recognising again what a great source of inspiration our innovative customers are.

About Saurer Group The Saurer Group, founded in 1853, is a leading, globally active technology company with a focus on machines and components for yarn production. As a company with a long tradition, we have always been an innovation leader. Today, the group is a solution provider for the textile industry consisting of two segments. Spinning Solutions offers highquality, technologically advanced and customer-specific automated solutions for staple fibre processing from bale to yarn.

Saurer Technologies specialises in

Renewcell CIRCULOSE®

intelligent and economical twisting and cabling machines for tire cord, carpet, staple fibre, glass filament and industrial yarns, which allow customers to adapt flexibly to dynamic market requirements.

Automation Solutions provides textile mills with an array of labour-saving systems. With locations in Switzerland, Germany, France, the UK, Czech Republic, Turkey, Brazil, Mexico, the USA, China, India, Uzbekistan, and Singapore, is well equipped to serve the world’s textile centres.

specializes in producing highquality yarns for fashion, home, shirting, and technical textiles. The company employs advanced technology and tightly controlled production processes to foster innovation and surpass market expectations. One of its primary focuses is the development of technical yarns that provide functional and performance advantages, along with the production of yarns that embrace principles of circularity and sustainability.

About Inovafil

Re:NewCell AB (publ) (“Renewcell”) developed a patented process that enables the recycling of cellulosic textile waste, such as worn-out cotton clothes and production scraps, transforming it into a pristine new material called CIRCULOSE®. Founded by innovators from Stockholm’s KTH Royal Institute of Technology in 2012, the award-winning, Sweden-based sustaintech company’s vision is to make fashion circular. Through its patented process, Renewcell is able to recycle cellulosic textile waste, such as worn-out cotton clothes and production scraps, transforming it into a pristine new material called CIRCULOSE®.

Inovafil Fiação, S.A., a spinning mill, was established in 2011, and its production facilities have been located in Vila Nova de Famalicão since 2014. With a workforce of 120 employees, Inovafil

Jeans made of CIRCULOSE®

About Renewcell

Fast Company named Renewcell one of the World’s Most Innovative Companies in 2021, as well as World Changing Idea in 2023. CIRCULOSE® was also included on TIME Magazine’s list of the 100 Best Inventions 2020.

Renewcell is a publicly listed company with shares traded on Nasdaq First North Premier Growth Market with the ticker name RENEW and ISIN code SE0014960431.

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Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2023 ACIMIT.....................................................................................IFC Accotex......................................................................11 Archroma Pakistan Ltd ...................................................BC Chhipasons.................................................................64 Fong’s National Engineering ......................................17 Itma Asia + Citme 2022 .............................................IBC ITM 2024 ...................................................................43 IGATEX Pakistan 2024 ...............................................47 iTextiles......................................................................41 Jakob Muller AG.........................................................13 Jet Logistics................................................................64 MS Printing Solutions ...................................................1 Novibra ......................................................................19 Picanol .........................................................................3 Rastgar ...................................................................6&64 Rieter .........................................................................21 Saurer ........................................................................35 SPGPrints ...................................................................27 Swissmem ..................................................................15 Truetzschler .................................................................9 Zhejiang Rifa .............................................................FC