Wine & Viticulture Journal, Autumn 2022 Preview

AUTUMN 2022 · Volume 37 Number 2

AUTUMN

• Managing white wine phenolics with ultrafiltration • Waste not, want not: retooling wineries • Does delaying the rate of ripening alter aroma compounds?

• Getting consumers to try alternatives to glass wine packaging • Tasting: Montepulciano

CONTENTS

INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION COLUMNS 8

AGW (Tony Battaglene): The year to come: market diversification is the key to the future

9

WINE AUSTRLIA (Liz Waters): New push to manage Australia’s grapevine germplasm collections

10

ASVO (Brooke Howell): Introducing the ASVO’s newest board members

WINEMAKING 11

Ultrafiltration: a novel approach to managing phenolics in white wine

11

15

Waste not, want not: the great retooling

20 Applications of flash détente for red wine style differentiation 25

Using bioprotection to transport fruit in Australia

29 AWRI REPORT: Analytical approaches to wine authenticity

VITICULTURE 32

Spring pruning wounds are susceptible to grapevine trunk disease pathogens

34 Grapevine leafroll-associated virus 3 and its management

34

strategies in vineyards 42 Does delaying the rate of ripening alter aroma compounds?

47

Evaluating the risk of smoke taint from stubble burning

50 Mapping and tracking canopy growth 52

A diagnostic app for nutrient disorder assessment

53 Exploring Xynisteri and Maratheftiko for use in the Australian wine industry 57

47

ALTERNATIVE VARIETIES: Grenache Blanc

BUSINESS & MARKETING 60 How can we get consumers to try alternatives to glass wine packaging?

63 Wine sector state of play 2020-21 65 How have producers adjusted to Chinese duties on Australian wine imports in 2021?

68 Selling wine overseas during COVID 70

78

Montepulciano: the new Shiraz?

VARIETAL REPORT 79

Montepulciano

Established 1985 Published quarterly PUBLISHER: Hartley Higgins GENERAL MANAGER: Robyn Haworth EDITOR: Sonya Logan Pvh (08) 8369 9502 Fax (08) 8369 9501 Email s.logan@winetitles.com.au EDITORIAL ADVISORY PANEL: Gary Baldwin, Peter Dry, Mark Krstic, Armando Corsi, Markus Herderich CONTRIBUTING WRITERS:

Matthew Ayres Tintu Baby Julie Barthoux Susan Bastian Tony Battaglene Keren Bindon Justin Cohen Cassandra Collins Angus Colovic Alexander Copper Armando Corsi Joana Coulon Martin Day Roberta De Bei Marco De Martino Nick Dokoozlian Peter Dry Marcel Essling Christopher Ford Mara Georgiadis

Paul Georgiadis Steve Goodman Nuredin Habili Sandy Hathaway Bruno Holzapfel Brooke Howell David Jeffery Trent Johnson Adam Keath Jason Kirby Mark Krstic Alan Little Larry Lockshin Jacqui McRae Jakob Mesidis Laura Mezei Richard Muhlack Richard Ntuli Alex Oczkowski Bill Page Bruce Pan Manoranjan Paul Ravi Ponangi

Pietro Previtali Robin Querre Motiur Rahaman Ashley Ratcliff Amy Rinaldo Renata Ristic Suzy Rogiers Yaelle Saltman Leigh Schmidtke Alana Seabrook Tingting Shi Mark Sosnowski Yihe Sui Damien Tscharke Rob Walker Liz Waters Matt Wenk Eric Wilkes Kerry Wilkinson David Wollan Claire Wright Lihong Zheng

Sonya Logan, Editor

throughout Australia, it is

W

identified via a preliminary study that there is

impossible to ignore the fact that

a risk of infection by grapevine trunk disease

the year ahead is going to be challenging

pathogens during spring shoot thinning

for many in the industry. Last year’s bumper

(page 32). Still on the topic of grapevine

vintage looks likely to be followed by another

diseases, the Australian Wine Research

large crop this year while the industry

Institute provides a handy summary of the

continues to contend with the devastating

latest local and international studies on how

loss of the Chinese market, freight disruptions, excess wine stock in storage and the ongoing fallout from COVID-19 management measures. Price pressure on red varieties is inevitable, with some solace to be found in the fact that white varieties remain in short supply.

For further insight into these challenges, read Tony Battaglene’s column on page 8 of this issue for Australian Grape & Wine’s assessment of the opportunities and issues in front of the sector over the coming months

ADVERTISING SALES: Ph (08) 8369 9515 Fax (08) 8369 9501 Lucianne Baillie Email: l.baillie@winetitles.com.au

and Sandy Hathaway’s summary of Wine

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION: Tim Coleman

they both make for rather sombre reading.

CREATIVE SERVICES: Tim Coleman, Luke Fernandez SUBSCRIPTIONS: One-year subscription (4 issues) Australia $58.50 (AUD) Two-year subscription (8 issues) Australia $110.00 (AUD) To subscribe and for overseas prices, visit: www.winetitles.com.au Published by Winetitles Media ABN 85 085 551 980 ADDRESS: 630 Regency Road, Broadview, South Australia 5083 TELEPHONE: Ph (08) 8369 9500 EMAIL: General info@winetitles.com.au Editorial s.logan@winetitles.com.au Subscriptions subs@winetitles.com.au Advertising l.baillie@winetitles.com.au WEBSITE: www.winetitles.com.au Printed by Lane Print, Adelaide, South Australia.

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Conditions

The opinions expressed in Wine & Viticulture Journal are not necessarily the opinions of or endorsed by the editor or publisher unless otherwise stated. All articles submitted for publication become the property of the publisher.

All material in Wine & Viticulture Journal is copyright © Winetitles Media. All rights reserved.No part may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means (graphic, electronic, or mechanical including information and retrieval systems) without written permission of the publisher.

While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information, the publisher will not accept responsibility for errors or omissions, or for any consequences arising from reliance on information published.

In Viticulture, more local research has

hile Vintage 2022 progresses

Australia’s latest Production, Sales and Inventory Report on page 63. Be warned – On a lighter note, this issue presents the results of Australian trials that have demonstrated how ultrafiltration can be used to manage phenolic compounds and hazeforming proteins in white wines (page 11) while another Australian-led study reveals how

to stop grapevine leafroll-associated virus 3 from spreading in vineyards and highlights were there are still gaps in our knowledge on its management under Australian conditions (page 32).

You might have heard that a new and improved version of VitiCanopy — the University of Adelaide-developed mobile app that measures grapevine canopy from images uploaded by users — has been recently released. If you’re not fully abreast of what VitiCanopy can help growers achieve, turn to page 50.

There’s lots on alternative varieties in this issue too. As well as our usual Alternative Varieties column, which this issue features Grenache Blanc (page 57), we also have an article on the Cypriot grape varieties Xynisteri and Maratheftiko (page 53) as well as Aglianico, Barbera, Durif, Graciano,

flash détente can be used to differentiate red

Mencía, Montepulciano, Negroamaro, Nero

wine styles (page 20). Continuing the focus

d’Avola and Touriga Nacional (page 70). In

on the application of new technologies in the

the latter, researchers generated sensory

winemaking process, Adam Keath from Wine

profiles of these varieties and then assessed

Network Consulting discusses the opportunity

their acceptance among Australian wine

to replace ageing winery equipment no longer

consumers. This article leads neatly into

fit for purpose with more efficient systems

this issue’s Montepulciano which begins on

(page 15).

page 75.

Cover image: Wine Australia Like us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter! www.facebook.com/WineAndVitiJournal

@WineVitiJournal

R E G U L A R F E AT U R E S NEWS 6 AUSTRALIAN GRAPE & WINE 8 WINE AUSTRALIA 9 ASVO 10

AWRI REPORT 35 ALTERNATIVE VARIETIES 67 VARIETAL REPORT 75 PRODUCTS & SERVICES 85

NEWS

Wine Australia Export Report 1 Jan 2021 to 31 Dec 2021

Total exports

$2.03 billion Volume

-30%

Average value WINE EXPORTS UNPRECEDENTEDLY TOUGH MARKET REFLECTED IN 2021 EXPORT FIGURES Australian wine exports fell 30 per cent in value to $2.03 billion and 17% in volume to 619 million litres in the year ended December 2021, according to the latest export figures released by Wine Australia.

Wine Australia’s general manager corporate affairs and regulation Rachel Triggs said the export figures were reflective of the unprecedentedly tough market conditions over the past 12 months resulting from tariffs imposed on bottled Australian wine imported to mainland China, the continuing impact of the global freight crisis, and a counter-swing in some markets after COVID-19 related

619 million litres

-17%

$3.27/litre

-15%

we’ll keep seeing significant differences in

in Australia and will provide a significant

the year-to-date export figures as a result

competitive advantage for the South Australian

of the deposit tariffs until the end of 2022,”

wine industry,” said the state’s Minister for

Triggs said.

Primary Industries and Regional Development

“Exports excluding mainland China increased by 7% in value to $2 billion and

Not surprisingly, the biggest driver of the

and sensory optimisation of NOLO alcohol

litres. This is the first time that exports

products and closely examine the market to

excluding mainland China have reached

unlock future opportunities.

$2 billion for a calendar year since 2009,” Triggs said.

The markets with the largest increase

“Wine Australia is pleased to be part of this collaborative initiative to help companies innovate in an exciting growing market

in value of Australian wine exports were

opportunity for the sector,” Wine Australia

Singapore (up 108% to $166 million), Hong

CEO Dr Martin Cole said.

Kong (up 45% to $191 million), South Korea

AWRI managing director Dr Mark Krstic

(up 74% to $47 million), Taiwan (up 65%

said that investing in NOLO alcohol wines

to $31 million) and Thailand (up 31% to

could capitalise on its significant growth

$28 million).

potential in domestic and export markets.

“This funding will enable industry to

NOLO WINE

undertake pilot-scale production of new no and low alcohol products and better understand the market opportunities in this

months to the end of December 2021 was Exports to mainland China declined by 97%

LOW AND NO ALCOHOL WINES TO RECEIVE FUNDING

per cent in value to $29 million and by 93%

Funding of nearly $5 million has

the reduction in exports to mainland China.

He said the project would research process

decreased by 6% in volume to 613 million

stockpiling in 2020. decline in Australian wine exports in the 12

David Basham.

consumer segment,” Krstic said.

NOLO ALCOHOL REACHES ALMOST US$10 BILLION IN VALUE

in volume to 6.4 million litres — a loss of

been announced by the South Australian

nearly $1 billion in value and 90 million litres in

Government to enable the state’s wine

volume compared to the 2020 calendar year

industry to undertake pilot-scale production

and ready-to-drink (RTD) products grew by

where shipments were free from tariffs for

of no and low (NOLO) alcohol wines to meet

more than 6% in volume in 10 key global

most of the year.

increasing consumer demand.

focus markets in 2021 and now command a

“The 2021 calendar year represents the

The project is being delivered by Wine

No and low alcohol beer, cider, wine, spirits

3.5% volume share of the industry, according

first full 12-month period since very high

Australia, the Australian Wine Research

to figures released by IWSR, a leading data

deposit tariffs on Australian wine imported to

Institute and the University of Adelaide which

source on the beverage alcohol market.

China were imposed, and the global impact

will see the establishment of a NOLO alcohol

of the challenging operating environment can

research facility at the University of Adelaide’s

2022 IWSR No- and Low-Alcohol Strategic

now be observed in full. Because the export

Waite campus.

Study were Australia, Brazil, Canada, France,

figures are compared to the prior 12-months,

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ww w.wi neti tl es .c om.au

“This will be the only trial scale facility W I NE & V I T I CU LT U R E J OU R N A L AU T U M N 2 0 2 2

The 10 focus markets examined for the

Germany, Japan, South Africa, Spain, the V37N2

NEWS

United Kingdom and the United States. The

harvest this year given ongoing international

study revealed the market value of no and low

demand and low stock levels.

alcohol in 2021 was just under US$10 billion, up from $7.8b in 2018.

The IWSR forecasts that no and low

“The 2021 harvest, while of exceptional quality, was 19% smaller than the previous year,” said Philip Gregan, CEO of New

The event will span over four days and feature 11 core plenary sessions comprising 49 presentations. More than 30 technical workshops covering a range of themes will be held on Sunday 26 June while eight business

(NOLO) alcohol volume will grow by an

Zealand Winegrowers. “Over the past 12

8% compound annual growth rate (CAGR)

months this has forced wineries to draw down

workshops will be presented on Tuesday

between 2021 and 2025 compared to regular

on stocks to maintain their place in market.

28 June.

alcohol volume growth of 0.7% CAGR during the same period.

Beer and cider were the largest NOLO alcohol category (at 75% volume share), with no-alcohol beer projected to drive growth at more than 11% CAGR over the study’s 20212025 forecast period. No-alcohol RTDs and no-alcohol spirits were both expected to post about 14% CAGR volume growth.

As the taste of low-alcohol wine is perceived by many consumers to be superior to that of no-alcohol wine, low-alcohol wine is expected to grow almost 20% CAGR between 2021 and 2025, with no-alcohol wine projected to rise by a more modest 9% CAGR.

“New Zealand wine sales for 2021 were 324 million litres, meaning they were 48 million litres more than was actually produced in the 2021 vintage. This stock drawdown highlights that we desperately need a bigger harvest in 2022 to replenish cellars and help satisfy international demand.

“Over the past 12 months many New

NZ WINEGRAPE HARVEST GETS UNDER WAY The first grapes of the 2022 New

Grape & Wine Outlook Conference, which presents the latest wine business, policy and marketing content focusing on the future prosperity of the sector, as well as WineTech, the Australian wine industry’s most extensive trade exhibition. WineTech is delivered in

Zealand wineries have faced tough decisions

partnership with Wine Industry Suppliers

over who they can supply in their key markets,

Australia Inc. and Expertise Events.

and the ongoing increase in international demand has placed huge strain on already depleted stocks. For some wineries, there has been quite simply just not enough wine to go around,” Gregan said.

EVENTS NEW ZEAL AND

The AWITC incorporates the Australian

AWITC AND WINETECH GET GREEN LIGHT Organiser of the Australian wine industry’s biggest event, the Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference (AWITC), will be held

WineTech 2022 will feature a comprehensive range of viticultural and winemaking equipment, materials and associated services by around 140 exhibitors over 9000 sqm of floor space.

The AWITC will be presented in a COVIDsafe manner, with all attendees required by the venue to be fully vaccinated with two doses of a COVID-19 vaccine approved by the Australian Therapeutic Goods Administration.

Registrations for the AWITC opened on 1

Zealand vintage have been harvested, with

in person at the Adelaide Convention Centre

March at www.awitc.com.au, with early-bird

winemakers hoping for a significantly larger

from 26 to 29 June 2022.

pricing available until 30 April 2022.

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