Behind the Top Drops: Cherubino Margaret River Chardonnay

Behind the Top Drops

Cherubino Margaret River Chardonnay

The 2020 vintage of the Cherubino Chardonnay has a brimming trophy cabinet: Best White Wine of Show trophy at the 2021 National Wine Show, three trophies at last year’s Margaret River Wine Show including the Best Wine of Show, three trophies at the 2021 Wine Show of WA including Best Wine of Show, and two trophies from the 2021 Royal Adelaide Wine Show including Best White of the Show. Not surprisingly the wine is out of stock, with the 2021 vintage likely to be snapped up upon its released off the back of its predecessor. Joint owner of Cherubino Wines Larry Cherubino shared some background on the winery’s top-of-the-range Chardonnay with Sonya Logan.

A view across the Cherubino vineyard at Wilyabrup in Margaret River

Before we get into the nuts and bolts of the Cherubino Margaret River Chardonnay, give us a brief history of Cherubino Wines.

Cherubino is owned and founded by Larry Cherubino and his partner Edwina Egerton-Warburton. It began in 2005 with the release of one wine. We have grown the business with the acquisition of vineyards and development of various brands, making wine from all the major regions of Western Australia — Margaret River, Frankland River in the Great Southern and Pemberton. We have a cellar door and restaurant in Margaret River, a wine bar and cellar in Subiaco, Perth

Onto the Cherubino Margaret River Chardonnay, when was the first one made and released?

First one was made in 2008 and released in 2009.

What prompted that first release?

Always had a desire to make an excellent Chardonnay out of Margaret River and as soon as we were able to we did. AUS: 1800 127 611 E: info@kauriwine.com NZ: 0800 528 749 W: www.kauriwine.com

Where was the fruit for that first wine sourced?

From Karridale in Margaret River. It was contracted at the time.

What was the ultimate plan for the source of the fruit?

Our ultimate aim was to make the wine from vineyards we manage. We now source and grow all our fruit. We no longer source fruit from that Karridale vineyard.

Tell us about the clones from the earlier releases:

Gingin clone and clones 95 and 96.

What’s the age and clones of the vines used to make the more recent releases?

The vines are 20 years old, the clones are the same — Gingin clone and clones 95 and 96.

Did you have a model wine style in mind when making the initial releases? We always wanted to make Chardonnay that reflected the cooler, maritime climate in which it was grown but had classic Australian Chardonnay style and flavours — crisp acidity, and fullness of flavour due to the long, cool growing seasons we have.

Has the wine style evolved over the years? No, this is still our aim.

Describe the current winemaking process that brings the wine to fruition? Fruit is handpicked then whole bunch pressed directly to oak. We don’t inoculate and rarely add acidity. Malolactic fermentation is encouraged depending on the season. The wine sits on light lees for 3-6 months, depending on the season, then bottled.

Have the winemaking inputs changed over the years? The style of oak we use has changed mainly in terms of less toast as we wanted less oak influence in the finished wines.

Biggest challenge in making this wine? Managing crop and yields

What’s the recommended retail price of the Cherubino Margaret River Chardonnay, approximately how much is produced each year, and where is it sold?

The RRP is $75.00. Approximately 250 dozen cases are made each year which are sold online, in on-premise outlets and fine wine stores nationally, and via our cellar door.

Most notable accolades?

2020 vintage: 2021 National Wine Show - Best Chardonnay and Best White Wine of the Show, 2021 Margaret River Wine Show - Wine of the Show, White Wine of the Show and Best Chardonnay; 2021 Wine Show of Western Australian - Best Wine of the Show, Best White Wine of the Show and Best Chardonnay, 2021 Royal Adelaide Wine Show - Best Chardonnay and Best White of the Show, 2021 Royal Sydney Wine Show - gold medal; 2019 vintage: 2022 Halliday Wine Companion - 97 points; 2016 vintage - Wine Show of WA - gold medal.

Best vintages?

2012, 2017, 2019, 2020