JANUARY 2026
I N C O R P O R AT I N G T H E W I N E & V I T I C U LT U R E J O U R N A L
WAVES INTO WIINNTEO DEEP DIVE UNDERSEA FERMENTS
COMPETITIVE RISK The race for global market share
Block-Take Vineyard register shapes up
2026 ANNUAL THEME: CHARTING THE FUTURE | ISSUE THEME: FERMENTATION
news TO P T RO P H I ES AT T H E 2025 A D E L A I D E H I L L S W I N E S H OW
Best Wine of Show
Sponsored by Multi Colour Corporation
Murdoch Hill 2024 Tilbury Chardonnay
Best White Wine of Show Sponsored by Langley & Co
Murdoch Hill 2024 Tilbury Chardonnay
Best Red Wine of Show Sponsored by Reisen Hotel
Worlds Apart
2025 ‘Blue Eyes’ Gamay Leigh Ratzmer (front) taking part in the 2025 Adelaide Hills Wine Show judging. Photo: Ben Macmahon
Chardonnay charms at Adelaide Hills Wine Show The trophies of the 2025 Adelaide Hills Wine Show have been revealed, with Chardonnay turning a hat trick as the Best Wine of Show. And, for the first time, a Gamay has been awarded Best Red Wine of Show. The 2025 Best Wine of Show was revealed to be Murdoch Hill 2024 Tilbury Chardonnay, making it the third year in a row that Chardonnay has taken the regional show’s top honour, following previous wins by Vella Wines 2020 Harvest Widow Chardonnay in 2024 and Sidewood Estate 2021 Mappinga Chardonnay in 2023. Murdoch Hill 2024 Tilbury Chardonnay was also deemed 2025 Best White Wine of Show, 2025 Best Chardonnay of Show, and Best Single Vineyard Wine. Adelaide Hills Wine Show chair of judges, Erin Larkin, who is an independent wine writer and experienced wine judge from Western Australia, said the quality of the Chardonnay classes at the Adelaide Hills Wine Show was “outstanding”. “Expectations are high around Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and sparkling, within a region capable of high calibre examples like the Adelaide Hills, 8
Grapegrower & Winemaker
however these lofty expectations were all but blown out of the water during the 2025 show,” said Larkin. “The top six Chardonnays were outstanding, with the Murdoch Hill wine rising to the fore – it was classy in every way; a great Chardonnay with global relevance.” Judges also commented on the 20242025 Chardonnay class from which the winner was chosen, describing it as “an enjoyable flight to judge”. “The top six Chardonnays were scintillating examples of the variety, exhibiting sophisticated winemaking and excellent quality fruit,” said the judges. “While the top wine emerged as class favourite, there were several contenders that challenged its position.” This year, the Best Red Wine of Show, which is typically Shiraz, was won by Worlds Apart 2025 ‘Blue Eyes’ Gamay, which also won Best Gamay. Alex Trescowthick, president of the Adelaide Hills Wine Region, said Gamay is “a rising star” in the region. “There’s real excitement about what this variety can achieve here,” he said. “Vine plantings are increasing, and our producers are sharing their knowledge www.winetitles.com.au
Best Sparkling Wine of Show Sponsored by Torresan Estate
Lobethal Road
2021 Maja Blanc de Blancs
Best Producer of Show <100t Sponsored by Adelaide Hills Wine Region
Ashton Hills
Best Producer of Show >100t Sponsored by Kubpower
Longview Vineyard with each other so that, as a region, our expertise in this variety is growing exponentially. The Adelaide Hills Wine Show is the only wine show in Australia to have a dedicated class for Gamay, and after only three years of this separate class, it’s a delightful surprise that the Best Gamay of Show – Worlds Apart 2025 ‘Blue Eyes’ Gamay – has been chosen as Best Red Wine of Show.” Other major trophies of the Adelaide Hills Wine Show include the Best Sparkling of Show which was awarded to Lobethal Road 2021 Maja Blanc de Blancs, Best Producer over 100 tonnes, which went to Longview Vineyard, and Best Producer under 100 tonnes, which was awarded to Ashton Hills. January 2026 – Issue 744
grapegrowing
Bosworth began converting to organics in 1995
The start of a movement
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McLaren Vale’s first certified-organic producer has marked 30 years since adopting pioneering vineyard practices.
oday, nearly 38 per cent of McLaren Vale’s vineyard area is certified organic or biodynamic – a proportion unmatched anywhere else in Australia. This regional shift reflects the influence of early adopters like Bosworth Wines, which demonstrated that organic farming could thrive in the region while delivering high-quality fruit. That philosophy has been validated again and again. Over the past 18 months alone, Bosworth Wines has earned a series of national accolades, which includes:
for ‘The Heretic’ 2024, their Touriga, Tataro, Graciano and Shiraz blend
I’m proud that our choice helped set McLaren Vale on a path that’s been positive for the vineyards, the soils and the wines. Louise Hemsley-Smith
• Trophy for Best Other Red/Blend at the 2025 McLaren Vale Wine Show 30
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• Trophy for Best Organic or Biodynamic Wine at the 2024 Melbourne Royal Wine Awards for the Battle of Bosworth 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon • Best Organic Shiraz in Australia at the 2025 Great Australian Shiraz Challenge for the White Boar Shiraz • Chairperson’s Trophy at the 2024 McLaren Vale wine show for its preservative-free Shiraz, the Puritan which the judges deemed the wine January 2026 – Issue 744
winemaking
Fermentation
Fermenting at depth
A 15-year quest to harness ocean pressure for secondary fermentation
At Subsea Estate, fermentation vessels are tethered to the ocean floor for up to 8 months
Winemaker and writer Paul Le Lacheur turns his attention to one of the most unconventional environments for yeast activity: the seabed. By completing secondary fermentation underwater, Western Australia’s Subsea Estate is uncovering new pathways in autolysis, tannin handling and texture development.
AT A GLANCE
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ubsea Estate is the truly revolutionary company using both land and sea winemaking techniques. The beauty of its inception lies in the fact that a single wine is made using a combination of traditional winemaking and subsea completion of secondary fermentation. Emmanuel Poirmeur is Subsea Estate co-founder and chief winemaker. I spoke with him about their unique processes. “This is not merely a simple ageing on the seabed. We inoculate for the secondary ferment. In fact, the criteria for the Subsea base wine selections are an essential part of Subsea operations. We have already tested more than 35 varieties with the Subsea winemaking process, so we know which wines work well with this system — but we always have surprises, which is an exciting part of this pioneering work,” he added.
A new frontier Emmanuel is also the founder of Wine Reef International – the company that designed and patented their underwater vats. These vats lie on the seabed at a depth of 20 metres. Located offshore January 2026 – Issue 744
● The subsea environment provides constant 16°C–20°C temperatures and stable pressure
on a large abalone lease of around 413 hectares, the vessels are tethered to the ocean floor for up to eight months. Situated in Flinders Bay at Augusta, south of Margaret River, Subsea Estate is the first operation of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere. There are usually two “immersions” per year, but large swells often make more frequent deployments difficult. Powerful ocean currents naturally stir the wine, gently rocking it throughout secondary fermentation. This adventurefuelled vision is the result of a collaborative project between Rare Foods Australia and Wine Reef Australia. The technique often results in distinct, sometimes slightly saline flavour profiles. www.winetitles.com.au
● Ocean currents maintain yeast in suspension, enhancing autolysis ● Random kinetic energy of the sea imparts unique flavour and texture variation ● Softens tannins, increases perceived fruitiness, and reduces acidity ● Slight salinity from seawater contributes to terroir expression ● Polyethylene (PET) vessels allow controlled positive pressure during ferment ● Each immersion produces distinct seasonal character due to variable ocean conditions
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business & technology
17th Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair drew 8,200 trade buyers from 57 countries.
Competitive risk
Emerging exporters challenge Australian wine in global markets
The 17th Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair (HKIWSF) has reinforced the city’s role as a strategic gateway for premium wine exports to Asia and beyond, drawing over 8,200 trade buyers from 57 countries. Australian wine’s presence was modest, yet the event showcased strong buyer engagement, international interest and opportunities for both large and boutique producers. With a continued trend toward premiumisation and an emphasis on relationship-building over immediate sales during challenging times, the fair also highlighted the growing influence of emerging wine-exporting nations, illustrating the evolving competitive landscape for Australian exporters. By Hans Mick in Hong Kong
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or a small number of Australian wine exhibitors, the recent event in Hong Kong presented a unique opportunity to claim a stake on international sales, even as global economic uncertainty shapes buyer behaviour. Though outnumbered by exhibiting spirts producers, this handful of doggedly determined winemakers taking part in Australia’s prominent national contingent at the fair captured
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the attention of many passing trade buyers and distributors – highlighting the enduring appeal of Aussie wine in the markets of greater China and Asia as a whole. After the first long, busy day of greeting possible clients – and pouring out copious samples of their best wines – they acknowledged that the potential here for targeted engagement with serious buyers was substantial. www.winetitles.com.au
With long experience in the wine sector, Chris O’Connor, the director of sales for NSW-based Premium Wine Negotiants, has taken part in a number of previous iterations of the Hong Kong exhibition over many years. Representing both his own brand, as well as those of several NSW winemaking colleagues, he emphasised the high calibre of his engagements at the recent event. January 2026 – Issue 744
sales & marketing
Four Barossa wines awarded 100-point scores in new wine guide
The Vintage Journal has released the South Australian Wine Guide 2026, a comprehensive digital resource dedicated to the state’s diverse wine regions and top-rated wines.
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aunched to shine a light on South Australia’s finest producers, the new guide uses a 100-point scoring system to rank the “best of the best”. Of the 1300+ wines reviewed, four wines stood above the rest, achieving perfect scores. Notably, every single 100-point wine hails from the Barossa Valley: • Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2021 was praised as being a ‘landmark’ vintage for the wine with ‘wonderful definition, vinosity and torque’ and cellaring potential until 2048. • Hentley Farm Clos Otto Shiraz 2022 was noted by judges as ‘a great Barossa Shiraz of exceptional definition, density and resonance. Brilliant.’
In total, 62 wines received scores of 97 points and above. Of these wines, 42 were from the Barossa (67.7%), seven were from McLaren Vale (11.3%), four were from Clare Valley (6.45%), three were from the Adelaide Hills (4.8%), two were from Coonawarra (3.2%), two were from Langhorne Creek (3.2%), and two were from Wrattonbully (3.2%). Barossa Valley winery Henschke was the producer listed the most times in the top 62 wines, with four of its wines included, and scores ranging from 97 to 100. The guide features reviews from 10 contributing critics from around
Australia, ranging from Masters of Wine to leading sommeliers, including Andrew Caillard MW, Tony Love, Ken Gargett, Jeni Port, Angus Hughson, and rising stars like Shanteh Wale, Cyndal Petty and Lisa Cardelli. Publisher and author Angus Hughson said he created the South Australian Wine Guide to rebalance the national conversation around wine. “When I first entered the wine trade, over 20 years ago, South Australia was widely described as ‘The Wine State’. While there has been a movement across all states and regions, increasingly the wines from South Australia have been forgotten or undervalued. “South Australia is by far the largest state in terms of vineyard area and wine production with a long and proud history. The South Australian Wine Guide has been launched to rebalance the ledger and proudly put every South Australian region on a pedestal,” Hughson said.
• Seppeltsfield 100-Year-Old Para Vintage Tawny 1925 was described by the critics as ‘a wonderful expression of Australian wine history and ambition. A living curio to share.’ • Torbreck Vintners RunRig Shiraz Viognier 2022 was celebrated for its notes of espresso, mocha and dark plum, followed by a gravelly finish.
Australian wine journalist Tony Love was also a contributor to the guide. “This year’s South Australian Wine Guide clearly shows there is a thriving culture of provenance and increasing awareness of what each site and style of wine can achieve in the right hands,” said Love. “Every vintage brings more wines of higher quality than the last, wines which reflect their regional roots and what the seasons have presented. “There’s undeniable attraction in every glass in this selection, and an exciting trend towards contemporary drinkability across every varietal class.
Seppeltsfield 100-Year-Old Para Vintage Tawny 1925
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Torbreck Vintners RunRig Shiraz Viognier 2022
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“South Australia’s winemakers continue to show they have the diversity of region, variety and style to be at the forefront of a vibrant and evolving consumer desire for excellence and value across all sectors of the wine market,” said Love.
Regional trends January 2026 – Issue 744