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The Magic of Color

THE MAGIC OF COLOR

Painter Henri Matisse famously said, “With color, one obtains an energy that seems to stem from witchcraft.” Indeed, color seems to cast a magic spell over everything it touches. In jewelry, it has the power to transform a simple piece into a masterpiece or add just the right finishing touch to an otherwise subdued palette.

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Gemstones of any color are hot right now in jewelry design, partly because stacking and layering is such a big trend. The art of mixing and matching gemstones, metal finishes, textures, and sizes just wouldn’t be possible without the endless variety of colored gemstones. The look is inherently busy, since the idea is to continuously create unique and ever-changing combinations of color, texture, and scale. Colored gemstones are also the best way to add drama to a cocktail ring and give big earrings the pop they deserve. A particular color of gemstone is also frequently the defining feature of a signature style. It can help define your personality.

SOFT PINKS

18K Morganite and diamond Chatelaine collection by David Yurman, earrings $2800.

In jewelry, every color is a great color, but certain hues are dominating fine jewelry this season. Morganite is a big favorite, particularly for cocktail rings and pendants, because it is generally found in large sizes. The gems are also very clean (inclusion free), and they are hard enough to withstand a few knocks. The light pink color is consistent and fairly saturated and can be found with orange or violet overtones. Morganite, also known as pink beryl, was named after banker and gem collector John Pierpont Morgan.

18K Morganite Chatelaine rings, starting at $1150. 18K Pave diamond bands, starting at $750

18K Morganite and diamond Chatelaine collection by David Yurman, pendant $2600.

RAINBOWS

Colored gems united in combination that is being touted as rainbow jewelry — also called sunset or watercolor combinations. The rainbow palette is symbolic in that nature’s rainbow is the product of sunshine and rain, both of which are necessary for a healthy life balance.

My Story Fine Jewelry, The Simone Locket, $3,300

My Story Fine Jewelry Collection, rings starting at $525.

My Story Fine Jewelry Collection, rings starting at $525.

BRILLIANT BLUES

Pantone also lists Nebulas Blue as one of its top ten colors of the year, which may explain why vibrant fine turquoise is making a big comeback among several top designers this season. Turquoise has been worn as a talisman for thousands of years, and is thought to bring good luck to the wearer. It looks good in all metal colors, and it mixes well with other gemstones. Today, most turquoise is treated with wax to preserve the brilliant, happy color. The best turquoise is a brilliant sky blue.

Turquoise plays well with other blue gemstones, including blue topaz, another hot gem this season. There are several types of topaz, all named according to their color properties. This year, London blue topaz is the belle of the ball, with its deeply saturated, almost navy, hue. It is often mixed with lighter shades of topaz and even aquamarine, which is lighter still. The combination of blues is reminiscent of tropical waters and has a calming effect on the soul.

18K Jaipur Collection by Marco Bicego. Necklace, $3110.

Sterling silver blue topaz Albion ring by David Yurman, $1450.

In fine jewelry, there are certain classics that never go out of style, and the big three gems — ruby, sapphire, and emerald — fall into that category. At one point considered the only precious gemstones (the rest were called semi-precious), these three gems, in the highest qualities, always hold their value, and in some cases are priced well above diamonds. Just because they are classic, though, doesn’t mean the big three have remained static in terms of design. Just as pearls no longer come only in strands, the big three have progressed beyond the art deco bracelet of decades past. Modern designs, unusual cuts, and nontraditional combinations have brought them into the 21st century.

THE BIG THREE

18K ruby and diamond Princess Flower ring by Roberto Coin, $5700.

14K white gold sapphire and diamond pendant by PD Collection, $1150.

The Providence Diamond Platinum Collection. Sapphire and diamond ring, $2695.

The Providence Diamond Platinum Collection. Ruby and diamond ring, $2695.

The Providence Diamond Platinum Collection. Emerald and diamond ring, $3150.

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