Professional Beauty UK - July 2019

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Jul

Contents

7

Regulars 13 News

Hair and beauty contributes £6.6bn to UK economy; Sally Durant Training goes into administration

CND Prismatic

Contents

29 Professionalbeauty.co.uk

What the industry’s been talking about online 30 Social surgery

Top tips for creating your first Facebook advert 35 Out & about

Behind the scenes at the biggest beauty and spa parties 41 Insider

Our exclusive monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 49 Ward’s world

The challenges of carving out “me time” when you’re the boss 53 Ask the experts

Sugar waxing troubleshooting and how to add crystal healing to your menu 85 Cyber insurance

The ins and outs of what this insurance covers 98 Nail notes

How to charge and make a profit from nail art 101 Treatment news

Elemis launches peptide facials and we try Lashus The Lift 103 New products

The lowdown on Flexi’s new beauty tools range, summer nail colours, and much more 112 Career Path

Samantha Cox reveals how to make it as a big-name session tech

Features

On the cover

61 Talking to… Nerys Chell

The managing director of PB Award-winning Eden Hall Day Spa reveals how the business has become one of the most successful day spas in the UK

68 Skin deep

Mesotherapy and microneedling are back in the spotlight as clients seek results with no downtime. We explore the potential and limitations of each, as well as some new guidance around the use of topical anaesthetic

67 Hot topic

Do spa marketing images that lack diversity have a negative impact on how clients feel about their bodies? Melissa Evans debates the issue 87 The right fit

Salon owner Louise Philpot on developing a good relationship with your product houses 91 Five spa design mistakes

Sparcstudio’s Beverley Bayes on the key elements to include in a spa refurbishment 95 Custom made

How creating bespoke facials using non-invasive technologies has helped salon Face Matters to thrive

77 Is your data safe?

As cyber-attacks become more prevalent, wreaking financial and reputational damage on businesses, protecting your salon from a hack should be top priority.

We quiz the pros on how to safeguard your data 96 Light the way

Spa programmes designed to work on guests’ emotional and physical wellbeing are big business. We explore the rise of emotional healing retreats

Cover image: Primark

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Editor’s Comment

8

In the ongoing battle for beauty therapy to be taken more seriously

by Government, a new report showing the full extent of its contribution to the economy should prove a powerful tool.

The fact that hair and beauty professions combined employ more than 300,000 people in almost 50,000 businesses, generating around £6.6 billion each year, certainly sounds impressive, and you can read more stats from the report in our story on page 13.

As well as pushing for stronger regulation via mandatory licensing, the report aims to promote beauty therapy as a credible career choice in a bid to improve access to advice in schools and help us to move away from the outdated perception of beauty as a fall-back option for students who aren’t accepted on to more academic courses.

Of course, the career options for therapists are plentiful, as we demonstrate every month by profiling a different route in our regular Career Path feature. This issue, we find out what it takes to make it as a session tech, from how to build contacts to working under pressure, The Daily Nail’s Samantha Cox gives us the lowdown on page 112.

With more therapists now moving down the advanced aesthetic route as a way to grow business and profits, we also take a closer look at skin needling this month (see page 68), exploring the resurgence in popularity of mesotherapy as well as the potential changes to rules around microneedling that you need to be aware of.

Whichever part of the industry you choose to specialise in, there’s no denying it’s a powerful and exciting one to be a part of.

Editor @Pro_Beauty01

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Caroline Ruston caroline.r@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4798

Editor: Eve Oxberry eve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7378

Amanda Strange amanda.s@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4793

Deputy editor: Amanda Pauley amanda@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9064 Features editor: Georgia Seago georgia@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9063 Social media editor: Chris Halpin chris@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7368 Sales director: Steve James steve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4791 Account managers: Jack Diamond jack@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4792

Sibel Suleyman sibel@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4794 Classified and recruitment sales: Nur Tanyeri nur@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4796 Publisher: Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4790 Head of marketing: Chloe Monina chloe@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4799 Design and production: ICD, imagecreativedesign.co.uk Printing: Walstead, walstead-uk.com The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

audited

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13 News

News Beauty and hair contributes £6.6bn to economy A first-of-its-kind report has demonstrated the value of the hair and beauty sector to the UK economy, with the aim of proving the need for regulation.

The “Economic Impact Assessment Report of the Hair and Beauty Sector on the UK Economy” was produced by the Hair & Barber Council in partnership with Babtac.

The aim was to show the UK Government how much money the hair and beauty industry brings to the economy to highlight the need for mandatory licencing.

The report, which was launched in late May, found that the sector comprises more than 49,371 businesses employing between 286,889 and 337,000 people.

Between £5.6 billion and £6.6bn was the total gross value generated by the UK hair and beauty sector in 2017. The gross value added per worker in the UK was estimated to be £19,398.

The associations said this is the first report into the sector to be peer

reviewed and the first to use PAYE data rather than estimating figures based solely on surveys.

Babtac chair Lesley Blair said, “I am confident that once [Government] influencers are aware of the significant contribution that our industry is making, they will sit up and take us seriously and listen to our requirements for a selfregulation framework.”

Other key recommendations

include inclusion of hair and beauty in the Creative Industries Sector Deal, meaning it should be recognised as a creative industry and given the associated support to continue to thrive.

The report also recommended that the UK Government should improve careers advice to accurately represent the excellent professional opportunities available in beauty and hair.

Burnout recognised as a medical condition With mental health in the spotlight, the World Health Organization (WHO) has officially recognised burnout as a chronic condition, with it being globally identified as a disease by 2020.

WHO will add “burnout” to its International Classification of Diseases (ICD), defining it as “a syndrome conceptualised as resulting from chronic workplace stress that has not been successfully managed.

It is characterised by feelings of energy depletion or exhaustion; increased mental distance from one’s job, or feelings of negativism or cynicism related to one’s

job; and reduced professional efficacy.

The organisation said: “It refers specifically to phenomena in the occupational context and should not be applied to describe experiences in other areas of life.”

Burnout is a real issue for both clients and staff in the beauty industry, with many therapists saying it affects their concentration and treatment delivery. This is the first time the condition has been recognised in WHO’s handbook for

medical conditions.

The decision was made on May 27 during the World Health Assembly in Geneva and comes a year after global health experts recommended it be added to the catalogue. professionalbeauty.co.uk

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14 News

inbrief

// Elemis has partnered with interior designer Kelly Hoppen and British Airways on a refresh of the Heathrow Travel Spas. Located in the airport’s Terminals 5 and 3, the new-look spas feature soft furnishings and an updated treatment menu, with complimentary 15-minute Biotec add-ons. // Following this year’s weeklong CND International Bootcamp in Edinburgh, Scotland, distributor Sweet Squared has announced six new CND education ambassadors: Helen BurtonWard for London, Nicole Crowell for Newcastle, Jacki Clarke for Manchester, Victoria Trafford and Georgia Haigh for Leeds, and Elissa Newton Smalls for Northern Ireland. // Yorkshire-based eco-spa Titanic Spa has partnered with skin cancer charity Skcin. Its therapists have been enrolled in MASCED (Melanoma and skin cancer early detection), Skcin’s national accreditation programme for beauty professionals, to help spot potential signs of skin cancer on clients. // As part of extending its wellness offering, Grayshott Health Spa in surrey has launched Regime Gastronomy cookery school in partnership with Applegate Farm, where guests will prepare dishes that promote a healthy microbiome, then take the recipes home to use them as part of a 360-degree approach to wellness. // Spa group Champneys has partnered with charity service Cancer Hair Care on a Hair Loss Friendly Campaign.

Therapists have been trained in cancer support services such as scalp care guidance, and will offer wig stands and head scarves to help guests feel more welcome and nurtured.

Sally Durant Training enters administration after 10 years of trading Sally Durant Training and Consultancy, which provided accredited courses on advanced skin studies, went into administration on May 14 after 10 years of trading, leaving many students out of pocket.

Founder Sally Durant said: “While I have tried everything in my power to restructure or refinance the business in order to save it, I have been unable to secure a way forward.

“The delays in Government legislation and slow implementation of the JCCP register, together with the financial uncertainty over Brexit, not to mention a considerable amount of ill luck, have all taken a huge toll on the viability of the business.”

Durant sought the advice of a licensed insolvency practitioner who told her to declare herself bankrupt.

The official receiver will be in touch with colleges and students with regard to money that is owed.

London College of Beauty Therapy (LCBT) said that those learners who were doing Level 4 courses in collaboration with them should get in touch. “We will ensure all enrolled with us are able to complete their course,” added chief executive Christianne Cavaliere.

Babtac and Cibtac have also advised affected learners to get in touch with them for advice and updates via enquiries@cibtac.com

Consumers now waking up to effects of nutrition on the skin

The effects of good nutrition on the skin are starting to be better understood by beauty consumers, according to a survey by skincare supplement brand Lycored.

Of more than 500 regular skincare users from the UK, US, France, China, Japan and Korea, 98% agreed that

good nutrition is necessary to achieve a healthy glow.

Sleep came out top when asked which factors contributed to glowing skin, with 66% of respondents choosing this option, followed by 65% who said a healthy diet was most important.

When asked to choose foods likely to help skin glow from the inside out, those rich in vitamin E such as almonds and sunflower seeds came out top, with 79% ranking these foods in first or second place.

Next were foods rich in carotenoids, like carrots and tomatoes (65%) and those containing collagen (46%).

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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18 News

inbrief

// Eve Taylor is planting one tree for every skincare product sold as part of its new environmental campaign Give Back to Nature. Launched in partnership with non-profit organisation Trees for the Future, the brand is committed to planting a minimum of 100,000 trees a year. // Professional product manufacturer Salon System has announced its 2019 Wax Squad, a team of specialists to share waxing tips with the industry. The squad includes Salon System educators Lisa Stone, Anjula Thakrar, Alex Dawes, Abbie Withers and Cara Neumann; plus male waxing specialist Andy Rouillard. // Distributor Gerrard International has bagged The Spa at Southlodge in Horsham as a new account.

The 44,000sq ft spa will offer Jessica treatments in its Ridgeview Beauty Bar, as well as stocking brands Mii, Spongellé and Scentered in its retail shop. // Only 17% of Brits have used a buy button on social media to purchase products, preferring to try an item in a salon or store before parting with their cash, found research by retailer OnBuy.com. 56% said they were concerned about the security of social commerce. // Katie Baxter (centre) won Trainer of the Year at Novalash’s 2019 LashOff Awards in Houston, US. Having worked for the lash-extension brand for five years, Baxter teaches Classic and American Volume techniques to students in the north of Scotland and Inverness. She is the first international trainer to ever win the award.

UK plastic straw and cotton bud ban coming into force in April 2020 Environmental secretary Michael Gove has confirmed that plastic straws, stirrers and cotton buds will be banned from April 2020.

The move is being made to reduce the effect of single-use plastics on the planet, with Gove saying the UK needed to take “urgent and decisive action”.

Shops and supermarkets will not be allowed to sell the plastic items, while places such as bars, restaurants and spas will need to stop displaying or handing them out.

However, there will be some exemptions to ensure that those with medical needs are able to continue to

access plastic straws.

Registered pharmacies will be allowed to sell plastic straws over the counter or online, and other businesses will be able to provide them on request, after disabled groups highlighted how straws are essential for everyday life and that a total ban could lead to the risk of dehydration.

Plastic-stemmed cotton buds are in the top 10 most common litter items that get washed up on the world’s beaches and many use plastic-based adhesives to secure the cotton tips. It’s believed there is more than 150 million tonnes of plastic in the world’s oceans.

Destination Skin acquired by sk:n group Aesthetic skincare chain Destination Skin has been acquired by advanced skincare clinic group sk:n.

Following its own acquisition by private equity company Tri Span in February, sk:n has bought Destination Skin and its 16 clinics, bringing the total number of clinics operated by the group to 68.

Sk:n said it has plans to open new clinics under both brands in the coming months.

Chief executive Darren Grassby said, “Together, we will be operationally and commercially stronger to innovate and shape the future of the aesthetic skincare market in the UK.

“This is the start of what will be an exciting year for the sk:n group. We have great confidence in the future of the industry and we look forward to giving our clients an enhanced experience in and out of clinic.”

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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20 News

inbrief

// Shared Beauty Secrets’ Lava Shells angel Katie Doo accompanied singer Rita Ora on the European leg of her World Phoenix Tour, giving the star massages using Kokolokahi oils preand post-performance.

Doo said: “This has been an experience of a lifetime.

There’s something special in giving someone that total feeling of wellbeing.” // Machines brand CACI has been getting A-listers ready for a host of events, including prepping Australian actress Elizabeth Debicki’s skin for the 2019 Met Gala Ball with its signature non-surgical face lift. Singer Alexandra Burke also enjoyed a Synergy facial before taking to the stage in the Bodyguard in London. // Nouveau Skin Therapy has launched a series of one-day events to give an insight into its Dermatude and A-Lift treatments.

Running until November, the Discovery Days will explain the treatment training and let therapists test out the products, with no commitment to book onto a course. // Sister properties Eden Hall Day Spa and Hoar Cross Hall have taken on Swiss cosmeceutical brand Dr. Levy Switzerland. The products use a patented stem cell formula to tackle ageing concerns. Both spas will offer treatments including a 55-minute medi-facial and 25-minute eye lift or hand rejuvenation. // Soil Association-certified organic beauty brand Botanicals has appointed Sara Jane Smith as client relationship manager. Smith will support new and existing professional accounts and brings more than 30 years of experience as a skincare consultant.

Conservative peer targets beauty industry for promoting “obsession with perfection”

The beauty industry promotes an “obsession with perfection” that leads to discrimination against people with disfigurements, a Conservative politician has said.

Commenting on data collected

by Changing Faces, a charity which supports people with a mark, scar or

condition that alters their appearance, Minister for Equalities Baroness Williams of Trafford said the beauty industry promoted a distorted perception of beauty that fuels social media abuse.

During a discussion with The Telegraph, Baroness Williams said: “There’s an obsession in the beauty industry with perfection and many girls have got such a distorted perception of what beauty and perfection looks like.”

The Changing Faces report, My Visible Difference, surveyed 1,000 people with a “visible difference” and found that almost a quarter felt self-conscious or embarrassed going out in public.

New rental concept allows freelancers to run their own salon A salon space has opened in Scotland with a new freelance concept.

Salon Studios houses six individual salons under one roof in Corstorphine, near Edinburgh, each available for rent by independent salon owners.

Founder Roz Colthart said the concept is targeted at beauty, wellness and hair professionals who want to start their own businesses but are put off by the cost.

Rates start at £250 per week and include water, electricity, music licence, health and safety assessment, fire management programme, rubbish collection, wifi, public area cleaning and CCTV.

Colthart said her vision was “happy salon owners able to focus on what they love without getting caught up in… managing staff, paying bills or worrying about cash flow”.

Salon Studios has plans for more sites elsewhere in Edinburgh and across the UK.

Teresa Tarmey opens second London salon

Celebrity facialist Teresa Tarmey is opening her second flagship salon in

London’s Belgravia this month. The salon will be dedicated to results-driven skincare offering signature anti-ageing facials in four treatment rooms, an event space for beauty workshops with experts and a retail shop selling Tarmey’s product line (see page 110 for its latest launch), as well as the brands she endorses.

Tarmey opened her first salon in London’s Kensington in 2017 and also has a New York flagship.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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24 News

diarydates // July 1–2 Professional Beauty Delhi Pragati Maidan Largest of PB’s India expos with a matchmaking service for brands and distributors. +91 (0)22 6171 3232 professionalbeauty.in

Dermalogica promotes skin-positivity with adult acne campaign Dermalogica is trying to reduce the stigma around adult acne with its new skin-positivity movement #skinindividual.

The campaign aims to normalise talk on breakouts via open conversations with brand ambassadors Made in Chelsea Star Georgia “Toff” Toffolo, beauty editor Amerley Ollenu and actor Liam Lau Fernandez, as well as using untouched images of the celebrities to show that all skin types are beautiful.

“Acne affects women and men of all ages, not only teenagers,” said Sally Penford, Dermalogica’s director of education. “Research shows that adult acne is caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, many of which can be managed.

“People put extreme pressure on

themselves to have flawless and picture-perfect skin. It’s no wonder that they’re struggling with skin confidence.”

Each of Dermalogica’s campaign ambassadors will share their anecdotes of dealing with adult acne as well as give advice on achieving healthy skin.

“By sharing real skin stories, and celebrating real, unfiltered skin, we hope to help people find skin confidence, knowing that there’s no such thing as ‘perfect’ skin,” added Penford.

The campaign coincides with the launch of three Dermalogica products that are targeted at preventing breakouts – Age Bright Clearing Serum, Age Bright Spot Fader and Clear Start Clearing Defense SPF30.

3D-lipo launches business development scheme Machines brand 3D-lipo has introduced a new team of business development managers, following the success of its pilot business development scheme.

Responding to demand from customers for more front-facing business support and advice, the brand has rolled out the scheme to its accounts nationwide, in a bid to provide them with step-by-step marketing and branding guidance, with a focus on how to capitalise on 3D-lipo’s press exposure.

The business development managers will also provide regular assistance with pricing structures,

treatment protocols, good working practice and equipment maintenance. They are: Dipa Sudra for East London and the South East, Emma Scarr for the North, Lydia Barrett for the South West; and Ross Ware for West London and the home counties.

Scott Julian is national sales manager.

// July 8 Salon Life Beauty Convention 2019 ILEC Conference Centre, London New management conference.

01268 745892 salon-life.co.uk // July 21 Scratch Summer Party Proud Embankment, London Scratch magazine nail sector awards event.

01959 547000 scratchstarsawards.co.uk // September 15 Innovative Beauty Conference Castle Hotel, Windsor New one-day conference, followed by Babtac and Cibtac Awards.

01452 623110 babtac.com // September 29–30 Olympia Beauty Olympia, London Nail and beauty trade show with events.

01959 569867 olympiabeauty.co.uk // October 5–7 Salon International ExCeL, London The UK’s top exhibition for hairdressing, comprising competitions and live stages.

020 7351 0536 salonshow.co.uk

// October 13–14 Professional Beauty North EventCity, Manchester The largest beauty exhibition in the North.

020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ north

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Five years later Katherine Daniels is the lead skincare brand for over 350 salons with more opening every month.

Kirsti and Donna remain at the heart of this family brand creating advanced performance treatments and products, always true to an efficient, uncomplicated 4-step skin prescription process.

Your clients deserve Better Skin for Life. We’d love to speak with you to make that happen.

W: www.katherinedanielscosmetics.com T: 01767 68 22 88, E: info@katherinedanielscosmetics.com

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Digital

29

professional

beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world

@ArmandBeasley: It’s always a pleasure to chat with @pro_beauty and also give advice to the #MUAs of tomorrow. Hope to see lots of #makeupartists #hairdressers and #beauty fanatics at this year’s #PBNorth in October.

Hot topic Andy Rouillard (@wax_daddy): A little something that me, @the_ beauty_guru and Jenny from @waxu_uk filmed with @pro_beauty, in which I ramble on about things popping up to say hello, strange smells and getting my face stuck to a client’s bum...

Just a regular day at the waxpot

Are mobile beauty businesses killing high-street salons?

Angela Stannard, beauty therapist, commented: “I had a salon for over eight years and have recently closed it and gone mobile, because of rates and the lower prices of other mobile therapists who are using cheaper products, etc. I have not reduced my prices or changed my products; I spent a huge amount of money training for three years and I’m still adding feathers to my cap.”

Donna Peacock, owner of Donna’s Beauty Touch, commented: “I work from home. I’d love to have a shop but the rent is too much. I wouldn’t work for a smaller wage in a spa, but I do get fed up being at home all the time.”

THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Does your salon or spa currently have, or plan to take on, an apprentice?

Hot topic

UK Government to ban plastic cotton buds from April 2020 Renée Thornley, owner of La Belle Jolie day spa, commented: “We’ve been using paper ones for some time and have a detailed environmental policy, as the beauty industry can generate so much waste with its disposable products.”

16% YES

84% NO

Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @georgeseago @katsjonouchi

@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK

uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Social Surgery

30

Social campaigns

ad

Looking to give your social media presence a boost? PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin explains how to advertise your Facebook page, while keeping the costs down

N

o matter how much you plan your content, you’ll

3. Traffic: If you’ve got a great website, then this is

never be able to reach your Facebook page’s

what you want to use. Traffic adverts help direct people

entire audience in one go. Reports show the

from your Facebook page through to your site. Make

“organic reach” of posts on Facebook is usually

sure the advert matches with your website experience

7%, meaning non-paid-for content only

to ensure a smooth customer journey.

appears in the newsfeed of 7% of the people

who “like” your page.

To reach a wider audience, you’ll need to consider

Key tips for your first advert Once you’ve chosen which type of campaign you want

using Facebook Ads. The good news is that ads aren’t

to use, you’re then able to choose your audience, based

as scary or costly as you might think, especially if you

on a number of demographics – use your Facebook

know the tips and tricks going in.

Insights to help guide you. Once you’ve chosen your target audience, it’s time to make the advert. Here are

What type of campaign do you need?

some quick wins that will help your first ad be a success.

As with anything on social media, you need to have

• Use high-quality images, unique to your business.

a clear goal in mind before you start a Facebook Ads

Facebook Ads allow you to use more than one single

campaign. While there are plenty of campaign options

image, either as multiple images in one post or as a

to choose from, here are three types that are simple to

slideshow. Take your customers on a journey through

use and often are the most effective.

1. Brand Awareness: This campaign is designed to

your salon, or show off your treatment results.

• The first 90 characters in your advert are key.

make users more generally aware of your Facebook

Mobile is the highest source of traffic on Facebook, but

page. Facebook’s algorithm places your adverts

adverts tend to be cut down to the first 90 characters

strategically across the website, increasing the likelihood

on these devices. Be concise and lead with your key

that customers will take notice of your page.

2. Engagement: There are a number of options

selling point or message to ensure the best response.

• Choose your placements. Facebook suggests

when you choose an Engagement campaign. This

automatic placements as “recommended” but in

can be great if you’re just starting your page, as you’re

reality, this just means Facebook puts your ads in

given an option for “Page Likes”. Increasing the number

places people tend not to look. Always choose to

of people who like your page will mean that while the

“edit placements” and restrict it just to Facebook

percentage for organic reach of content remains low,

(and possibly Instagram, if you’ve got some really

you’re still reaching more people.

great images). PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Industry Events

&

Out About

35

Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa

PEACCI MASTER THE ART OF BEING YOURSELF TALK THE VINYL FACTORY, LONDON To mark the launch of its new sister lacquer and apparel brand Peacci, The Gel Bottle Inc hosted an exclusive event for press to try out the collection and hear from the pros on how to master the art of being yourself. PB’s editor Eve Oxberry and deputy editor Amanda Pauley got a first look at the vegan lacquer range, which promises to match the pigment quality of gel, and the five-piece clothing collection, before mixing up their very own polish at the MYO Station and striking their best poses in the Selfie-Supermarket. Founder Daisy Kalnina then took to the stage to talk about the importance of self-care, alongside a panel that included session manicurist Michelle Humphrey, and body-positivity author Megan Jayne Crabbe.

HAIR GAIN WE GROW TOGETHER EVENT VIVI RESTAURANT & BAR, LONDON With eight million women in the UK suffering with hair loss at some point in their lives, Hair Gain founder Lucy Palmer brought together press and industry experts to discuss the impact this can have on a person’s mental health. PB’s Amanda listened to a panel session on how common it is for people to suffer with hair loss postpartum or due to stress, and why taking a beauty supplement is the way to aid regrowth – Hair Gain supports follicle growth with a mix of zinc, biotin and AnaGain. Guests then enjoyed a healthy breakfast and were gifted the supplements. >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Industry Events

36 ECONOMIC IMPACT ASSESSMENT REPORT LAUNCH HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, LONDON It was a packed turnout for the drinks reception held to launch an important industry report created by the Hair and Barber Council, in partnership with Babtac to prove the scale and strength of the beauty and hair profession.

PB’s Eve was among the guests at the launch, where hairdressers mingled with beauty professionals and leaders of awarding groups such as VTCT. Babtac chair Lesley Blair spoke on behalf of the beauty profession, sharing key stats from the in-depth research and emphasising the importance of safety.

OPI X CONVERSE LAUNCH CONVERSE UK HEAD OFFICE, LONDON Features editor Georgia Seago was among the first to check out the latest OPI launch in the flesh, a six-shade collection in collaboration with footwear brand Converse. Georgia had her nails painted in hot pink V-I-Pink Passes from the new collection by famed session tech Jenni Draper, who was on hand with a team of techs from Blow Ltd to provide manis. A coffee bar whipped up drinks using colourful superfood powders, and press were gifted a pair of shoes from the collaboration, available exclusively at Schuh and Converse online, which correspond to the polish shades.

LILI GRACE BOUTIQUE, LONDON Mii Cosmetics was the exclusive make-up partner at a fashion show jointly hosted by breast cancer charity Future Dreams and London boutique Lili Grace. With the theme “This Is Me”, the event welcomed 550 people to two catwalk shows featuring 25 models, each with their own breast cancer story. The event raised more than £80,000 for the charity.

Ahead of the show, models were spray tanned by Kissed

by Mii trainers. Then, backstage, 13 MUAs led by Rina Steinberg created a naturally bronzed look using Mii hero products. PB

Photography: Paul Toeman

FUTURE DREAMS FASHION SHOW

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035-036 PBJUL19 Out & About.indd 36

12/06/2019 10:28

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41 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

beauty

Miss Selfridge

With the Government shining a spotlight on cybercrime and the threat it poses to small businesses, many of you have been researching how to safeguard your salon from a dangerous breach.

Identity theft is your biggest safety concern (42%), especially as you have all your clients’ medical and credit card details saved on your system, followed closely by hacking (29%), phishing emails (17%) and phone scams (12%). Keep your data safe by reading our software feature on page 77.

Updating your advanced treatments menu has also been on your to-do list, as you understand that clients now want to see instant results from their appointment.

As such, you’ve seen a rise in skin-resurfacing treatments, especially microdermabrasion (46%), dermaplaning (14%) and skin needling (8%). Find out how to offer the latter safely on page 68.

On the spot Which cyber security threat are you most worried about?

1. Identity theft/credit card fraud 2. Hacking 3. Phishing emails 4. Phone scams

26

%

May 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MAY 2019 COMPARE WITH MAY 2018?

61% 32% 7% stock more than one size of robe in their salon

What’s your most popular skin-resurfacing treatment?

1. Microdermabrasion 2. Dermaplaning 3. Skin needling 4. Mesotherapy

Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend.

Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider

BETTER

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

46% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MAY 2019 COMPARE WITH MAY 2018?

32% 62% BETTER

6% WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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12/06/2019 10:48

Business Trends

42

Insider

spa

On the spot

Accessorize

With body positivity a hot topic, beauty brands such as HD Brows and Spa Experience have launched campaigns with unretouched imagery and featuring real clients to show that every body is beautiful. Many of you want your spa to be an inclusive space for clients, which is why more than two thirds of you (67%) now stock multiple robe sizes, knowing one size does not fit all. However, could your marketing material still be inadvertently body-shaming clients? Join the debate on page 67.

On the operational side of things, making sure your software network is as secure as possible has been at the forefront of your priorities, especially with many scare stories of small businesses being scammed via identity theft, phishing emails or hacking. Have you thought about investing in cyber insurance? Find out how much it costs and what it covers on page 85.

Which cyber security threat are you most worried about?

1. Identity theft/credit card fraud 2. Phishing emails 3. Hacking

May 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MAY 2019 COMPARE WITH MAY 2018?

65% 34% 1% BETTER

67%

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

stock more than one size of robe in their spa

60% What’s your most popular skin-resurfacing treatment?

1. Skin needling 2. Microdermabrasion 3. Mesotherapy 4. Dermaplaning

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MAY 2019 COMPARE WITH MAY 2018?

33% BETTER

60%

7% WORSE

SAME

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07/06/2019 10:55

Insider

nails

For nail techs, it’s increasingly important to protect work so it can’t be used or duplicated by somebody else. There’s an array of apps out there that will let you watermark your nail art images and you told us your favourites are Watermark X, InstaMark, Watermark Photo, Photomarks, My Watermarks, Salt and iStamp. Turn to page 98 to find out how to make a better profit from your nail art.

Making sure clients feel like they’re getting a truly relaxing experience in your business is top priority, which is why many of you have added luxurious extras to your premium pedicure treatments. A leg and foot exfoliation and massage is your most popular add-on (44%), but clients are also loving the addition of thermal boots (15%) to warm cold feet and increase product penetration; application of a hydrating foot mask (9%); and a glass of champagne (7%).

On the spot Which apps do you use to watermark photos of your nail work?

CND Prismatic

Business Trends

44

1. Watermark X 2. InstaMark 3. Watermark Photo 4. Photomarks

47%

encourage clients to detox their nails between gel-polish appointments

May 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MAY 2019 COMPARE WITH MAY 2018?

57% 36% 7% BETTER

21

1. Leg and foot exfoliation and massage 3. Nail art 4. Foot mask METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a crosssection of the industry and were polled by email from May 31 to June 10, regarding business for the month to May 31. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by spas and salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.

WORSE

NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK

Which extra touches do you offer in your premium pedicure services?

2. Thermal boots

SAME

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MAY 2019 COMPARE WITH MAY 2018?

33% 55% 12% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

041-044 PBJUL19 Insider.indd 44

12/06/2019 10:51

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EYE CREAM

Brighten your eyes!

Luxurious hydrating and brightening eye cream contains caffeine and white flower extracts to help increase circulation, reduce dark circles and under eye puffiness.

To stock ApraiseÂŽ in your salon or spa, find a local stockist at www.apraise.co.uk

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11/06/2019 09:40

Ward’s World

49

BRINGING the weather It’s hard to be the one expected to motivate a team every day, even when you are dealing with your own problems.

Carving out time for yourself is essential, writes HELLEN WARD

M

y friend Susannah is headmistress of a state school, a role with tremendous responsibilities.

We were talking recently and I was asking her what she found the most challenging aspect of her job: managing the finances, finding the right staff, the parents, the curriculum, concerns about child poverty, league tables, social media and the pressures it brings to young lives, mental wellbeing among students and staff – there was a seemingly endless list of things that could send her stress levels soaring.

But the most challenging was none of the above. She told me, “It’s the fact that I bring the weather”. I asked her what she meant and her analogy stuck with me, drawing parallels for anyone who is responsible for a team of people.

“As a boss, you bring the weather. The team look upon you to create the sunshine, and sometimes you’re the one who feels drab, grey, drizzly and stormy. The desire to bring summer feels like such a responsibility when inside you feel like it’s snowing.”

oblivious to. Being a Gemini and mercurial of nature doesn’t help; I can switch between Jekyll and Hyde in a heartbeat.

I believe that some people are here on the planet with the sole purpose to bring the glitterball to other people’s lives. People are attracted to them like moths to a flame. Spiritually, they’re called lightworkers, and many people who are leaders and managers have this impact (whether they know it or not). They instinctively know how to make things better for everyone they meet – and have an overwhelming need to heal the world.

People are drawn to them for a reason they can’t put their finger on, whether in the supermarket or on the salon floor. They silently convey an assurance that everything will be OK. Most people have to work much harder to appear in control and at ease. Regardless, being the one who others depend on to have all the answers all of the time can be exhausting. Some days, any boss will agree, just one more question is enough to make you scream (even if it’s just about what you want to do for dinner).

So, what to do? Time out is key. Finding something that makes you relax (yoga for me) and gives you precious alone time. Sometimes, I must admit, I dream of working in Sainsburys on the till – ringing a bell when I have a problem, coat on and out the door on the dot. In reality, I know that would be my idea of hell. I’m a bringer of weather – whether I like it or not. PB

Being the one who others depend on to have all the answers all of the time can be exhausting

Management challenges Isn’t that true of our sector? Who motivates the motivator?

Most people gauge the atmosphere of their job by what mood their boss is in, but bosses have challenges, and often don’t feel like being up-tempo. They have worries, concerns, and issues that they stress about too, even if they try not to breed a negative mindset among their team members.

My team are very sensitive to my mood, that I know. I can pretty much guarantee that if I am in my sunny mode, they will be too. And most of the time I am. But sometimes it’s hard when things feel overwhelming and you’re coping with business challenges that the staff on the salon floor are

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for The National Beauty Federation (NBF).

Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

049 PBJUL19 Wards World.indd 49

12/06/2019 10:55

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13/05/2019 10:39

Ask the Experts

53

ask

the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

How can I work crystal therapy into my existing treatment menu?

Crystals and precious metals have been used throughout history as a healing method to cure both mental and physical ailments. The Egyptians used them to promote protection and health, and this thinking has been passed down through the ages. Today, these ideas are gaining traction again, especially in the beauty and wellbeing sector.

The basis of crystal healing and gemstone therapy is the idea that everything is composed of energy, and that the energy of crystals resonates with human beings to create a positive reaction.

There are various ways crystals can be incorporated into your menu.

Crystal wands, for example, can be used in face and body massages. Let the customer choose the wand they are most drawn to, as this will tell you what it is that they need more of in their lives, and then use it in treatment to realign their energy.

For example, if a guest picked rose quartz then it means they’re looking for more security or are feeling the need to manifest a more loving and forgiving quality, whereas if they picked sapphire then it means they want more clarity, which will aid their problem-solving abilities.

Therapists could also use crystal elixirs, which are created when gemstones and crystals are left to infuse with water and oils. The idea is that these mediums become imprinted within the particular stone’s vibrational energy and when absorbed during treatment, the body responds positively to the crystal’s energy.

Laying crystals at the end of a relaxing massage is another way to enhance a client’s experience. This ritual involves placing stones at the energy centres of the body, which match with the chakra points – lay stones that correspond in colour to the individual chakra points.

This supports the natural healing process and relieves stress, sharpening concentration, aiding personal growth and enhancing inner harmony and balance.

Lucy Dunn is events administrator for The Old Course Hotel, St Andrews in Scotland, whose Kohler Waters Spa won Residential Spa of the Year: 11 Rooms or More at the 2019 Professional Beauty Awards.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

053-056 PBJUL19 Ask the Experts.indd 53

12/06/2019 10:57

54 Ask the Experts

How can I prevent folliculitis when performing back waxes?

How should I decide which nail products to stock and how to build up my range?

There are hundreds of products available so deciding what to stock can be difficult. The best place to start is to consider local trends. Which nail systems are typically used in your area? Consider your strengths though – if you’re experienced in gel, but most local clients wear acrylic, feel free to educate your customers and change their minds.

When building your range, there are basic colours that every nail technician needs – red, nude, pink, glitter, grey, lavender, navy, and white.

Next, consider the season and choose trend colours that you like, but remember, it’s hard to pick the right colour for everybody. If a customer has a shade in mind, ask them to show you the exact colour before ordering anything in specially, to avoid buying the wrong colour.

If you aim for 30 different colours, then you can offer a good variety for your customers. Try to buy five or six new shades every season to build your selection and update your stock. It is best to have your colour wheel to hand so you can see exactly what you need and don’t overbuy. Don’t forget to record your stock and track your best-selling colours.

You also need to pay attention to the shelf life of products and be aware of how long a bottle has been open. Look for a little symbol of an open container, which will show you the shelf life – be that 12, 18, 24 or a maximum of 36 months, Annamaria Farkas is chief executive of Crystal Nails UK. depending on the brand.

She has been in the industry Storage can also affect the shelf since 2002, using her expertise life so ensure you are storing and to become an educator. using products correctly.

It is important that you do a full consultation. Always ask if your client has had any previous reactions to waxing. If so, it is especially important to instigate a routine of cleansing and exfoliating. This should be carried out every other day prior to waxing as this will help to prevent the build up of dead skin cells.

You must stress to clients the importance of adhering to aftercare advice. Most post-waxing infections will be caused by poor or no aftercare.

For a back wax, advise clients to bring a clean, loose-fitting t-shirt to put on immediately after the treatment and to avoid heat, friction and perspiration for 48 hours post-wax. This includes hot showers, swimming pools, hot tubs and vigorous exercise.

Retail or recommend an antibacterial wash and cream for them to use twice a day for two days. For best practice, and to limit cross contamination, always: • Sanitise the working area between clients • Sanitise your client’s skin prior to treatment • Wear disposable latex-free gloves • Use disposable heads for cartridge wax systems or throw away cartridges after single use • Never double dip your spatula in to the wax pot.

Always advise your client to seek medical attention if symptoms persist longer than 48 hours or if they are severe.

Caroline Mears is a waxing trainer and Perron Rigot brand educator. She has been running her business, Waxpert, since 2010, treating clients from a private clinic in Cambridgeshire.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

053-056 PBJUL19 Ask the Experts.indd 54

12/06/2019 10:57

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Ask the Experts

56

How should I plan my digital marketing strategy?

What are the pros and cons of sugar wax versus standard strip wax?

Sugaring, often referred to as “sugar waxing”, is experiencing a resurgence in popularity because it offers an alternative to waxing that uses entirely natural ingredients. Sugar waxes are most commonly made from sugar, water and lemon juice to give a honey-like consistency.

The product contains no chemicals or resins so it can be made in an entirely vegan and cruelty-free way. As it’s water soluble, any residue washes away with warm water, making it eco-friendly. Spillages are easily cleaned up and customers can put clothes back on without fear of damaging them.

Like wax, the product is warmed and applied using a spatula, then removed using a fabric strip. It requires no additional training as the technique is the same as waxing. However, with sugaring, there is minimal need for pre- or post-wax products.

Sugar wax sticks to the hair, not the skin. This leads to a gentler, less painful treatment, which reduces redness and soreness. It also eliminates the risk of ingrowing hair and leaves a smooth finish. However, preparing the skin for sugar waxing requires cleansing to make sure it is free from moisturisers and oils and then dusting with talc to ensure the skin is dry in order for the product to stick to the hairs.

Because the product only sticks Rosie Khandwala is to the hair, smaller hairs aren’t co-founder of Aqua Natural, a certified vegan sugar wax always caught first time with product range, and has sugaring, but the same area can been manufacturing sugar be treated multiple times as the products for more than 30 years. skin isn’t damaged.

In this hyper-competitive industry, you can’t afford to fall behind with marketing, promotion and positioning – customers can be all too fickle if they don’t receive regular nurturing.

To maximise valuable time, energy and money, your marketing activities must deliver against your broader business strategy and objectives. You should plan annually and review the results quarterly.

When you get down to planning the monthly content, look across all your channels – events, website, social media, blogs and newsletters. While this can feel time-consuming, in the long run it will save so much work.

A monthly digital marketing outreach should consist of at least one newsletter, keeping a consistent structure so it’s easier to plan content and making sure to include website links; and three blogs, but try to come up with titles and angles for these in advance to avoid writer’s block. For optimum SEO, aim for 500 words minimum per blog.

You should also try to do at least one email or social media advertising campaign per month. Think about what you want to promote and drive action for it. For example, if you want to push a new treatment, this could be a good way to entice lapsed clients back into the spa, offering them a free skin review as an incentive.

Anna Bjurstam is vice president of spa and wellness at spa group Six Senses and a partner in spa consultancy and management business Raison d’Etre.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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ryoSkin is the next generation of body-sculpting devices from Paris. It uses cold temperatures to tackle stubborn fat and tone the skin. CryoSkin 3.0 is the best-selling fat-freezing device in France, and last year sold 600 machines in the US, too. It was developed specifically for beauty salons; with no suction cups, treatments are safe, easy to operate and efficient. Clients can lose up to four inches in five 30-minute sessions. The practical handpiece allows the operation of three treatments: CryoSlimming, CryoToning and CryoFacelift.

CryoSlimming Based around cryolipolysis or “fat freezing”, this 30-minute treatment uses temperatures as low as -8°C to destroy the adipocytes. There is instant inch loss.

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CryoFacelift These 20-minute treatments rejuvenate and tighten the skin.

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Whereas the handpiece achieves very good results using negative temperatures and a slow circular movement, the efficiency of the hands-free treatment results from the fact that the cryo heads are static, so the cold penetrates deeply as the heads are not moved during treatment. Both techniques, handpiece and hands-free, give the same results in terms of inch loss (up to four inches in five sessions).

The four cryo heads can be placed close together or spread further apart for treating a wider area. It is possible to place them on multiple areas as well.

Price: CryoSkin 3.0 from £18,000 + VAT; CryoSkin 4.0 from £23,500 + VAT. Financing options are available, including a revenueshare option with zero investment up-front, available for a limited number of selected UK- and Ireland-based beauty salons and clinics.

CryoSkin 4.0 is the latest iteration of the popular CryoSkin body-contouring device and has been created for professionals who want to offer hands-free CryoSlimming treatments.

The new model can still be used to perform CryoSlimming, CryoToning and CryoFacelift treatments using the handpiece.

CryoSlimming hands-free CryoSkin 4.0 includes four static heads. Simply place the cryo heads on the treatment area and secure them with the provided bands. The machine takes care of the rest.

Treatment time is 30 minutes and there is no suction or risk of skin damage.

While the handpiece operates at negative temperatures, the new hands-free cryo heads use positive temperatures

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10/05/2019 13:55

61 Interview

Talking to...

Nerys Chell

I

The managing director of award-winning Eden Hall Day Spa tells Amanda Pauley what it’s like to run one of the biggest spa operations in the UK, building staff retention and competing with discount sites

n the ever-competitive day spa market it can be tough to make your mark, especially with discount sites such as Groupon and Wowcher offering cheap deals that make it hard to compete. Add to this increasing supplier costs and the uncertainty of a looming Brexit, and the spa landscape can be a real challenge to navigate.

That’s why it’s so impressive that Eden Hall Day Spa in Newark, Nottinghamshire, has stood the test of time, thriving for 17 years, despite these threats, and proving that you don’t need to discount heavily or jump on every trend bandwagon to get return custom.

The spa’s reputation and dedication to outstanding service is also why managing director Nerys Chell and her

170-strong team (including 41 therapists) took home the prestigious title of Day Spa of the Year at the 2019 Professional Beauty Awards.

But, how has the business managed to become one of the oldest and most successful UK day spas?

“The key to our success is listening,” says Chell. “We listen to feedback from our staff and customers because they’re the ones using the facilities day in, day out. We also reinvest in the business, looking at areas we can improve. We want clients to see that we are at the top of our game.”

The spa has just come to the end of an extensive five-year refurbishment, with the new reception >

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Interview

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fitted out in December 2018, the Spa Shop completed in January 2019 and modern C@fé 1875 having opened in March. The spa’s grounds have also been updated with the addition of outdoor treatments and yoga classes for the summer months and a new shepherd’s hut which will act as a servery for food and drinks.

Believe in your brand

memorable,” explains Chell. “We also focus on upselling to groups by offering exclusive events such as mojito-making classes or make-up workshops. It’s about trying to get that conversion before people arrive; being proactive like this fills our quiet times.”

So many day spas fail because they don’t listen to the criticism they’re given. You have to take it on board because your customers are telling you exactly what they want

“So many day spas fail because they don’t listen to the criticism they’re given.

You have to take it on board because your customers are telling you exactly what they want,” explains Chell. The other big mistake operators make is cheapening their brand, which Chell advises never pays off in the long run.

“Everything is offer-led these days and I just feel there’s got to be a point where you can’t go any lower because you have to make a profit and cover your overheads. It’s also about believing in your brand and knowing that you’re good value for money.

If you don’t believe that, then how will your customer?,” she says.

Eden Hall does what Chell calls “fair” offers, with a limit to what the business will give away. Sometimes the spa will reduce its day rate from £99 to £79 for a limited time only or do early-bird offers where customers receive a treatment discount on select times and days.

However, setting targets to improve pre-sales and guest conversions has negated the temptation to discount too much. “70% of customers who book in for spa days want treatments, with body rituals being the most popular, but they just need some encouragement. We do follow-up calls after every booking to encourage guests to have a treatment or to add on extra touches such as flowers or champagne to make their stay more

Invest in your people

With 26 treatment rooms and the ability to host 160 guests a day, managing such a large operation doesn’t come without its challenges. “We’re not a small spa where you can take 20 to 30 guests and give them an almost one-to-one feel throughout the entire experience. However, we still want to give a first-class service with a certain level of personal touch, even in a property of this size,” says Chell.

Eden Hall manages to achieve this via a range of thorough processes that motivate staff. Firstly, therapists are allocated a room for the day, so >

Clockwise from top: Eden Hall’s swimming pool, walk-through shower, exterior and grounds

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Interview

64

KEY DATES 1990 Chell works as a therapist at Champneys Springs 1991 Joins Hoar Cross Hall Hotel & Spa as treatment scheduler, before being promoted to therapy manager 2002 Eden Hall Day Spa opens its doors and Chell takes on the position of therapy manager 2006 Promoted to operations manager at Eden Hall

they know what the stock levels are and where everything is. “They don’t have to worry about the set-up as the space is theirs.

They plan for the day and make it their own,” she explains.

Chell has also worked hard to make Eden Hall a long-lasting career choice for staff, having launched the company’s RISE (rewarding improvement, sustaining excellence) programme in 2018, which recognises beauty therapists to either bronze, silver or gold therapy level. “It’s a system for rewarding therapists with bonuses and other gifts for achieving their goals, and since implementing it our staff retention levels are much better,” says Chell.

“It’s made for a happier team and it’s because they can see clear progression, working towards either becoming a team leader, supervisor or senior. It’s also about looking after our people, which is why therapists are limited to only performing four hours of massage a day.”

Chell and her team also know that Brexit is a concern for customers, with some cautiously watching their spend, which is why packages have been created to suit all

Clockwise from top: Nerys Chell and her team at the 2019 PB Awards, Eden Hall treatment room, clients enjoying the spa’s hot tub

pockets. “We segment our database, analysing our customers so we can present them with the right offer. This is what you need to do to drive your business forward.”

Future security Despite concerns over the uncertainty of supplier costs post-Brexit, the spa is doing everything it can not to raise its prices.

“We’ve found that costs are going up already and that can quickly eat into profits. We’re watching costs on food and brand supplies but what we don’t want to do is reduce the quality,” explains Chell.

“So, our chef is being more creative and clever with his dishes and now we’re trying to bulk-buy supplies as a group with our sister property Hoar Cross Hall in Staffordshire. We’re in a fortunate position where we can do that,” she says. PB

2011 Takes up the mantle of managing director 2017 Eden Hall is recognised as Day Spa of the Year at the PB Awards 2019 Wins PB’s Day Spa of the Year Award. for the second time. Completes five-year refurbishment

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Hot Topic

67

DOES YOUR

marketing material body-shame

clients?

The role the beauty industry has played in body-shaming is in the spotlight.

Melissa Evans, national spa manager for Spa Experience, discusses why using marketing images that lack age, gender and body diversity could be damaging your business

T

Every body welcome

the message about the physical and mental health benefits of spa than a super-toned woman in a bikini diving into a pool – where all the customer sees is somebody with a great body.

Your client should aspire to be the person in the photo grabbing that much-needed me-time. The wording that accompanies your imagery is just as important. Your messaging should link back to the health benefits of spa and focus on how the treatment can make the client feel rather than how it can make them look. This is the best way to encourage return custom.

Before-and-after pictures are a good way of demonstrating your services authentically.

However, I’d advise showing more realistic treatment outcomes to gain better customer trust. For example, in your next before-andafter social post, share the difference in a client’s skin after six treatments, instead of just one, to show skin health is a journey.

Don’t be afraid to snap results on acne-prone skin or clients with deep-set wrinkles either as people relate to realness. PB

Unfortunately, some spas fail to mirror the DNA of their clientele and as a result end up eliminating certain groups, which inevitably affects their income. For example, if your business is based in a predominately Asian area then you need some model images that reflect that demographic.

It’s also about thinking more carefully when downloading or shooting photos, opting for less clichéd images to use on your website, newsletters and social media. A photo of a client in a robe chilling in a relaxation space will better deliver

Melissa Evans is national spa and fitness class manager for Spa Experience by Better, a day spa chain that has nine sites in the UK. The company recently launched a body positivity campaign promoting its facilities using real spa clients instead of models (pictured above).

he body positivity movement, which preaches health and happiness at any age, size and ethnicity, is brilliant in that it teaches people how to accept who they are.

However, as an industry, I can’t help but wonder whether the images that feature in our marketing have had a part to play, subconsciously, in people feeling negatively about their bodies?

Other than visiting the beach or going for a swim, spas are the only other time clients get into a swimsuit in public and for a lot of women (and men) it’s a big thing. So, when clients are already feeling body-conscious, do our marketing images, which usually come from stock photo agencies and the product houses we use (which tend to use “traditional” models – Caucasian, blonde, slim), contribute to a feeling of not quite belonging?

You can see how clients would think they need to put a filter on their spa snaps, showing an enhanced version of themselves.

I think it’s our responsibility to hammer home the message that there’s no perception about how people should look when in the spa environment. The simplest way is by promoting the diversity of our clientele, showcasing different ethnicities, ages and genders in our marketing. I mean, a 50-year-old, size 16 black woman is just as inspirational as a 25-year-old, size eight white woman.

Your messaging should focus on how the treatment can make the client feel rather than how it can make them look

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Skin Needling

68

Skin

DEEP

T

One size doesn’t fit all when it comes to skin needling, and there are some important points to consider when deciding which treatment to offer, finds Georgia Seago

he eternal quest for perfect skin has led many clients to go under the needle – skin needling, that is. Needling treatments can now be found on treatment menus in salons up and down the country, with therapists able to help clients achieve their skin goals through a basic principle of wound healing and regeneration. While dermal rollering is the most common form of microneedling, there are other options to look at before deciding which treatment to offer, and with mounting confusion over who can perform these treatments, it’s well worth doing your research.

Mesotherapy is one alternative to microneedling. A French treatment originally

developed to inject medicine into subcutaneous fat; it is now widely used for skin rejuvenation, but is a different procedure to microneedling entirely. “Both mesotherapy and microneedling involve needling techniques; however, they differ in terms of needle length, application, depth of penetration, speed of delivery and the skin conditions they treat,” says Violeta Negrea, training manager at EF Medispa, which has clinics in London and Birmingham.

“Mesotherapy combines a bespoke cocktail of powerful vitamins, which are injected into the lower layers of the skin using a meso device with one needle, whereas microneedling gently moves multiple microscopic needles over the

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EF Medispa

Skin Needling

69

face to cause miniscule puncture marks, activating the production of collagen and elastin,” she explains.

To the point Though needling treatments could sound scary to some, they’ve become star services for many skin therapists and cosmetic practitioners, owing to the impressive results they can achieve while remaining non-surgical. “Microneedling has become an integral part of my treatment algorithm over the past few years due to its efficacy, limited safety profile and significant clinical results,” says aesthetic doctor Fiona McCarthy, who practises from a clinic in Chelsea, London. “Patients are not keen for prolonged downtime and seem to be shying away from more invasive procedures, so microneedling provides that perfect balance of minimal recovery time and visibly improved outcomes.”

While both microneedling and mesotherapy work by triggering a response in the lower layers of the skin, they’re each suited to different concerns, so you could choose which treatment to invest in depending on the most common indications among your clients. Advanced skincare group Therapié Clinic, which has more than 30 sites nationwide, has both procedures on its menu because of the wide range of client concerns that can be addressed on both the face and body by offering the two.

“Needling is ideal for clients with uneven skin tone or texture, and it helps even out bits of superficial pigmentation and redness too,” says Simone Shoffman, Therapié’s UK training manager. “It’s also good for very fine lines spreading out from the eyes and around the lips – those first signs of ageing.” Shoffman suggests offering microneedling to clients considering Botox or dermal fillers, either to get the skin in great condition beforehand and therefore support the effect of the injectable, or instead of, to show them how much better the face can look just by improving skin quality. “It’s also really good for scarring and stretchmarks on the body,” she adds.

Different strokes Meanwhile, mesotherapy is better for skin issues that present from within the lower layers, such as dehydration and advanced ageing, because a targeted active solution is being injected as the needle is penetrating the skin. “Mesotherapy is great for those who are suffering from dehydrated, dull, puffy or saggy skin, and those who want to tackle cellulite and stubborn, localised fat,” says Negrea. Most therapists at Level 3 will generally needle to a maximum depth of 2mm with a mesotherapy gun, ideal >

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Skin Needling

70

to address more advanced skin ageing signs, such as volume loss, says Shoffman: “You can inject solutions that will stimulate a much faster response than microneedling would do, and you can deliver them deeper into the skin.”

as McCarthy explains: “The controlled dermal wounding stimulates the wound healing cascade, resulting in the release of various growth factors to promote new collagen and elastin production, which are the Recently, barriers have been put in place for many salons that offer building blocks of healthy skin.” microneedling. Some local councils have contacted the salons that operate in their borough to let them know that the terms of their Comfortably numb licence no longer allow them to sell or apply anaesthetic to their Although mesotherapy is clients prior to needling treatments. generally done using a gun, it’s Like most points of contention that arise from the therapist/medic usually far more comfortable divide, any actual legalities around the issue are unclear. However, for clients than microneedling, some device manufacturers are changing their guidance in line with even with a roller. “Meso is the local councils. Lee Holloway, health and safety advisor at IIAA, much more tolerable for the commented: “While there has been no direct change in legislation, client because everything IIAA has received increasing feedback about the inconsistent views of is done quicker,” says UK local environmental health authorities in relation to enforcing the Shoffman. “It’s one single Medicines Act… It now feels necessary to ask our skincare needle going into the skin, professionals to use topical anaesthetic under the guidance of a whereas microneedling medically qualified professional.” involves multiple needles at For more on this contentious issue, see our full report at once, whether you’re using a professionalbeauty.co.uk/anaesthetic and leave a comment to let us roller or a pen device.” know if these changes are causing you to adapt the way you practise.

This means that topical

The anaesthetic issue

Many mesotherapy solutions have a hyaluronic acid base for this reason, infusing hydration for a plumping glow from deep within the skin.

Mesotherapy can also be used to tackle superficial fat and cellulite on the body, with therapists able to inject solutions that help break down fat at around 4mm.

Microneedling, on the other hand, is better suited to stretchmarks and scarring on the body,

anaesthetic is generally applied before microneedling but isn’t needed for mesotherapy, also indicating the amount of downtime clients can expect. Negrea says that at EF Medispa, where a pen device is used for needling, “we use anaesthetic cream to minimise any pain. In terms of downtime, clients can experience mild to moderate redness, swelling or skin sensitivity to touch for up to three days. With mesotherapy, no anaesthetic is required, and clients may experience a mild tingling sensation on the skin for up to 48 hours.” PB

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72 Smart Group Using 25 hollow needle point microtips to deliver product into the skin, the Smart Meso machine claims to increase ingredient absorption by 84%. The tips reach just 0.5mm and do not draw blood, ideal for clients looking for skin rejuvenation without pain or downtime. The device also performs electroporation for deep dermal product penetration using a controlled electrical impulse, permeating the cell membrane for enhanced treatment results. A full face and neck treatment takes 30 to 45 minutes and a range of mesotherapy serums is available for use with the device.

Trade: £2,750 01344 411480 the-smartgroup.co.uk

Tools of the TRADE

Whether meso or micro, these pro devices ensure the best and safest needling results

Dermapure Pure Rollering is the needling system from Dermapure. It uses 200 superfine titanium needles to various depths, depending on who is providing the treatment; the homecare roller reaches 0.25mm, the roller for “professional practitioner level” is 0.50 to 0.75mm, and the medical version reaches 1.5mm. Dermapure recommends use of the roller on clients with fine lines and wrinkles, congested skin, sun damage, and uneven skin texture.

Trade: £18.25 for the professional practitioner rollers 0845 246 4666 (Dermapure) purerollers.com

Finishing Touches Group Semi-permanent make-up brand Finishing Touches also has several devices for skin needling. The latest is Vytal Skin, a machine that performs needling compatible with three needle formations, depending on the client’s needs. The 0.3 metal needle is designed for a targeted treatment around the eyes, lips and forehead, while the 0.5 metal gives a deeper treatment and the 0.5 plastic needle plate provides gentle rejuvenation. The device’s handpiece can be programmed and monitors needle depth.

Trade: £1,500 01444 414744 finishingtouchesgroup.com

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Skin Needling

74 Crystal Clear

Rejuvapen

The Comcit Elite combines microneedling with cryo oxygen, ingredient infusion and oxygen infusion in one device. The disposable roller head uses needles ranging between 0.25 and 1mm, creating microchannels for the infusion of serum into the lower layers of the skin. Cryo oxygen is fed through the roller for simultaneous skin cooling during treatment, helping to reduce discomfort. The brand says Comcit treatments increase skin firmness, replace lost moisture and reverse damage caused by free radicals.

Trade: £12,499 0151 709 7227 crystalclear.co.uk

Rejuvapen NXT uses 12 superfine stainless steel needles at a depth ranging from 0.01 to 2.5mm. It has a digital control with nine speed settings and uses patent-pending tips that create a barrier between the needle cartridge and the device. The tip’s scalloped edge also helps reduce suction and clogging when the device is in action.

Manufactured in the US, Rejuvapen is made from medical-grade aluminium and has an ergonomic, lightweight design to improve therapist comfort during treatment.

Trade: £1,600 03330 142434 (Skinbrands) skinbrands.co.uk

Mesoestetic

Environ

The MCT Injector by Mesoestetic allows Level 3 therapists to perform the nappage intradermal mesotherapy technique. It uses precise technology for high needle penetration speed and performs micro-massage movements simultaneously to improve absorption of actives. The device can also be used on the body to address cellulite, stimulate lymphatic drainage and restore firmness to sagging skin. The brand has a range of actives to be used with the injector gun, comprising solutions for hydration, restructuring and restoring radiance.

Trade: £3,850 01625 529540 (Mesoestetic UK) mesoestetic.co.uk

The Medical Roll-CIT from Environ was designed by brand founder and plastic surgeon Dr Des Fernandes. The patent-pending instrument has 1mm needles, comes in surgical packets and is exposed to gamma irradiation sterilisation.

Environ also has a roller for home use (pictured) that can be retailed to clients, with 108 0.01mm ultrafine needles. It comes with a built-in cleaning cap for use with the brand’s Roll-CIT Cleaning Solution.

Trade: £65 for the professional roller, £68 for the home-use roller.

020 8450 2020 (IIAA) iiaa.eu

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To learn more visit gettimely.com or call +44 20 3695 6388.

Software

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data SAFE? Is your

Cyber-crime is at an all-time high, which is why protecting your data from hackers has never been more crucial. AMANDA PAULEY reveals the steps you need to take to safeguard your salon

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ith a staggering 56% of UK beauty salons and hairdressers reporting that they’ve been the victim of cyber fraud, according to a 2018 survey of National Beauty Federation (NBF) and National Hairdressers’ Federation (NHF) members, knowing how to successfully protect your business against the financial, reputational and legal damage of a hack has never been more important.

It’s a common misconception that high-street businesses are unlikely to be the target of malicious activity, with big tech companies more at threat, but this isn’t true – the Government has revealed that more than 40% of UK companies (both big and small) have experienced a cyber breach in the past 12 months.

Time for protection Plus, with business secretary Greg Clark announcing that the Government is now investing £70 million into cyber security to help small businesses become more resilient to these threats, now is the time to take stock of your processes to make sure your data is secure.

“Cyber-crime describes any criminal act dealing with computers and networks. ‘Hacking’ can be a completely automatic process that changes your

computer files after accessing a compromised website or suspicious email attachment,” says Ian Johnstone, software support manager at SalonGenius. “Even if you have anti-virus software, it’s not impossible for your PC or Mac to get infected.”

A successful cyber-attack can cause major damage to your business, affecting your clients’ trust in you, as well as your bottom line. “In some data breach cases, there will be an immediate financial loss – a hacker could lock you out from your appointment software and demand a ransom to restore access,” explains Andrew Schofield, chief technology officer at Timely.

They can play havoc with your day-to-day business operations, too. “If you have online booking, and appointments are being made maliciously by hackers, then this will fill up your calendar with fake slots, which will lose your salon money,” says Nicola Soanes, marketing and sales manager for Salon Tracker.

Threat one: phishing emails There are two main types of attack you should be aware of. The first is phishing emails, which >

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are used by criminals to trick owners into handing over their login details for popular sites such as Facebook, eBay and PayPal. These emails typically attempt to get personal information like your bank account details by claiming to be an unpaid or overdue invoice from a reputable supplier you work with.

“You should never open attachments to emails when you don’t recognise the sender,” advises Andy Heathershaw, chief technology officer at Premier Software. “If you receive an email directing you to log in to a service, type in the URL instead of clicking the link to ensure it’s a reputable site before entering any usernames or passwords.”

Although this is an external threat, it needs one of enter to gain access,” he says. “This ensures the your employees to open the attachment or click on person logging in is the same one who has control the link, which is why staff training on cyber security of the account, as a criminal wouldn’t have access should be a top priority. “It could be as simple as to your phone.” human error or a negligent employee, but one of the biggest threats to your data is internal,” says Threat two: hacking Sebastian Maśka, chief executive at Versum.

Hacking – shutting down or misuse of your website or “Create different access levels for employees, as network – is the other big issue that can lead to data not everyone needs entry to being damaged or leaked on the financial data or clients’ full internet. “Salons and spas often contact details, and set up a store sensitive health-related user activity log that will information and credit card details register each operation for clients, which can be of real performed in the system, interest to criminal elements. In the allowing you to see who makes darker corners of the internet, there changes and when.” is a market for these stolen details,” Cyber Security Breaches Survey 2018 If the websites you use for explains John Doran, director of business offer two-factor engineering in development for authentication (known as 2FA), Phorest. “The risk of all this being then Heathershaw recommends switching it on to exposed could lead to fraud, impersonation or bribery, further protect your livelihood. “It usually takes the as well as humiliation and emotional trauma.” form of the website sending a unique code to the One of the easiest ways a hacker can gain access to mobile of the person logging in, which they must your system is through sloppy password practices. Bad

£894

The average cost of a cyber breach to a micro or small business

habits such as using the same password across all your accounts or weak choices such as “123456” – which topped the National Cyber Security Centre’s 2019 list of worst passwords, with 23.2 million accounts using this sequence – can put you at risk. “Password01”, “123456789” and “qwerty” also made the list.

“Creating user-specific passwords and pinprotection for logins will protect your salon against serious cyber threats. Choose strong passwords to protect your security and identity, using numbers, characters and letters, in a mix of lower and uppercase,” says Andrew Walker, head of IT and implementation for Shortcuts.

Further ways to protect your network include changing the default password on your wifi routers and ensuring your devices are continually updated with anti-virus and malware software – you can configure most operating systems to do this automatically.PB

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Conscious Hair & Beauty

by Phorest Salon Software Hear from the experts on how to put sustainability & wellness at the top of your salon’s agenda.

Inspiration & Education Expert advice: Dr Denise Baden, Associate Professor at Southampton Business School, specialises in sustainability in salons.

Mental health & salon life: Sam Pearce, Founder of The Potting Shed Spa, West Yorkshire.

Sustainability success stories: Jennie Lawson Founder of Mimosa Beauty, Essex.

More speakers and information to be announced.

Venue

Tickets

Date & Time

OXO2, Level Two, Oxo Tower

For tickets & information,

Wharf, Bargehouse Street

please go to http://bit.ly/Phorest

Sunday

Southbank, London

Tickets from ÂŁ100.00 +VAT

18th August 2019

SE1 9PH

per ticket

www.phorest.com #letsgrow

9:30am - 2:00pm

Software

80 Salon by Premier Software • The company’s payment gateway, in partnership with Monek, complies with the highest level of payment data security •O ption to encrypt client data for complete security, in line with GDPR •A bility to set up password-protected staff profiles to restrict access to confidential data, with passwords updated regularly to reduce the risk of hacking •B acks up data to a storage device, vital for protecting it from an attack.

Licences start from £495, with support from £41.95 a month 01543 466580 premiersoftware.co.uk

Safe

Bet

Keep your data safe with one of these reputable software management systems

Versum • Access to patterns and data-transfer monitoring to detect any unexpected activity • Ability to restrict users’ authorisation based on their IPs, devices and time. You can also retrieve removed or amended data • User activity log, which registers each operation performed in the system • Daily back-ups, which are encrypted and stored on multiple servers, and access to data only through encrypted connections.

Available in monthly subscription packages: Basic, £29; Medium, £49; and Pro, £79 020 3393 7709 versum.com

Timely • Uses hypertext transfer protocol secure (https), which means every time you use Timely your information is transferred securely •D ata is stored online and backed up minute-byminute. The company also has independent security testing carried out by third-party specialists •A bility to assign different levels of access to staff • S ervers are located at an enterprise-grade data centre, protected by 24/7 surveillance.

From £15 per bookable staff member for the basic package 020 3808 0465 gettimely.com

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Phorest SalonGenius • Fully encrypted with bespoke security session logins, passwords and fingerprint recognitions that can’t be duplicated or hacked •C an opt in for the software’s managed back-up service FallbackGenius, which ensures important files are safe and secure •C omplete cover in the event of a virus or malware attack for the duration of the hardware’s warranty period.

Packages start from £49 per month 01202 311826 salongenius.com

• Control access levels and auto logout/pins, enabling you to identify staff members on the POS system • Locked down access, which goes with the Salon Management App, so you manage who can see what • Uses contract external penetration testers to attack the system to identify issues, keeping security high • Employs Amazon Web Services as its main infrastructure, leveraging the security measures the company offers.

Price available on request 020 7100 9290 phorest.com

Salon Tracker • Web booking links have https secure URLs • Password protection and auto lockout if the computer is left unattended for more than 30 seconds • Privacy screening and audit tracker each time a client’s information is viewed • Client fingerprint security in-salon, so only the customer themselves can activate their information.

Available in three monthly subscription packages: Standard, £30; Professional, £60; and Enterprise, £90 0113 350 8230 salontracker.co.uk

Shortcuts • Fully GDPR compliant with pin/password protection for users at home and in salon •C an implement user access levels with personalised security settings, so you can choose who sees what, and the system will automatically secure clients’ notes • F ully logged user history and automated back-up of data to Amazon Cloud, protecting you against theft.

From £69 a month 0161 972 4900 shortcuts.co.uk

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LASH & BROW STYLING

BROWISTA WORKSHOP

! r u o l o C y M For more info contact Training Solutions 020 8845 4115

Creative Custom Colour Discover RefectoCil‘s extensive colour palette, custom blend shades and create a unique colour for your clients.

• Colour lasts up to 6 weeks • Smudge & waterproof • Vegan tints Available at your wholesaler now Distributed exclusively by Salon System in the UK

Operational Advice

85

Cyber

insurance

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With more and more UK businesses subjected to some form of cyberattack each year, CHRISTINA RYAN, senior account handler for Professional Beauty Direct, explains why insurance is so vital

It can be very difficult for salons to effectively handle cyberattacks and impossible to predict when they will happen. Many businesses rely on anti-virus software installed on their machines and implement firewall protection on their network, but this is not always enough to defend against increasingly devious cyber criminals, who continue to advance their own technologies to stay ahead of the security software.

This is where cyber insurance comes into its own, as it will help your salon business survive an attack in the future. Cyber insurance has provisions within the policy cover to help investigate any breach, cover any losses involved, and assist in paying legal costs and any regulatory fines that may emanate from a breach.

In general, you can expect the following covers under a cyber insurance policy: • Expert analysis to investigate any breach •H andling the notification to customers and regulatory bodies •C overing class action costs and legal fees •A ssistance in paying legal costs and regulatory fines • Crisis management assistance, providing expert support to mitigate reputational damage •C yber extortion, covering losses following the threat of extortion and access to expertise in advising and helping to deal with an incident • Business interruption costs, including supply chain issues and system failures. This will also include increased costs of working during the period it takes to rectify.

It is fair to say that all salons will have a cyber exposure in some shape or form and would benefit from a cyber insurance policy. Policies are available from just a few hundred pounds for entry-level cover, and this is well worth the investment for the peace of mind alone. PB Contact Professional Beauty Direct Insurance on 0345 605 8670 or professionalbeauty.co.uk/insurance

“Cyber insurance has provisions to help investigate any breach, cover any losses involved, and assist in paying legal costs”

Growing need Being relatively new to the market, having first been developed around 10 years ago, cyber insurance has had one of the fastest new policy take-up rates in recent years, especially since the arrival of the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR).

Under these regulations, which came into force in May 2018, it is mandatory for all businesses including salons to report any data breaches, and without a proper insurance policy in place, salons could face huge fines for any breach.

Many clients ask what cyber insurance actually covers, as there is a definite absence of education on the subject.

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SET YOUR STUDENTS UP FOR CAREER SUCCESS What’s on for colleges on Monday 14th October EDUCATION FORUM Discuss with leading employers and specialists how to get students into the industry

Bring 50+ students for a free Education Forum ticket plus a £20 voucher to spend at the show Email colleges@professionalbeauty.co.uk to register a group of students

INSPIRATION & TRAINING Seminars for just £1 per session for lecturers and students DO YOUR STUDENTS HAVE WHAT IT TAKES? Enter the make-up, nail and lash championships EXCLUSIVE LECTURER BENEFITS Free refreshments and drinks reception in the lounges DISCOUNTED COACH HIRE 50% off coach hire, courtesy of

Register for free tickets at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/collegetickets #PBNorth @pro_beauty ProfessionalBeautyUK pro_beauty01

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Salon Focus

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The right FIT

L

Louise Philpot, owner of Bodyworks Day Spa, talks to Georgia Seago about the importance of working with a product house that understands a small salon’s needs

ess than impressed by the service she was receiving from her product house at the time, Louise Philpot, owner of Bodyworks Day Spa in Crawley, decided it was time for a change. Philpot has run the familyowned, three-treatment room salon for 26 years and knows exactly what she wants from her relationship with a brand.

“We were a Darphin salon but the service wasn’t what you’d expect from a premium brand,” says Philpot. “So I wrote to every skincare company I was interested in and waited for them to tell me what they could offer.”

Shortly after making the decision to move away from Darphin, the brand pulled out of the UK professional market, solidifying Philpot’s decision. She says she knew what she wanted from a partner – a sampling service, a cruelty -free and largely vegan product range, and people who understood her needs and constraints as a small business – but wanted to feel out a positive relationship.

French, family-owned spa skincare brand Sothys ultimately won her business. While she recognises that no brand will tick every box, Philpot says she was particularly drawn to Sothys for a few reasons: “They give free training, offer sampling, and there are no minimum orders – all things that are important for a small business,” she says.

A therapist for 31 years, with special interests in complementary and Eastern therapies, Philpot also needed to work with a brand that would allow her to infuse her own philosophies and experience into treatments. “My massage style is influenced by techniques I’ve learned in the Far East as well as here in the UK, so I want to use my own movements, as well as those a brand shows me, and some don’t allow you to do that,” she explains. “But Sothys allow you to have your own identity. They give you free rein to put your stamp on the treatments and how you run your business, whereas with some brands it’s their way or no way.”

Signature treatments Philpot’s personal areas of interest are reflected in Bodyworks’s menu, which includes therapies such as hopi ear candles, reflexology and chakra massage. Sothys also offers several body rituals with Eastern elements, like the Hanakasumi and Sensation Orientale treatments. Philpot saw these as great additions to the salon’s offer. “The Eastern influences aren’t just included because they’re trendy, they’re at the core of Sothys.>

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Salon Focus

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As a reflexologist I looked at the Hanakasumi protocol, for example, and knew why those movements were in there,” she says.

While Bodyworks doesn’t advertise itself as a vegan salon, Philpot says the biggest change the business has seen of late is demand from clients for vegan-friendly products and treatments, especially since a vegan café, named Sage, opened over the road.

Fresh appeal

packages in conjunction with Sage Vegan Café to include a light lunch or afternoon tea. One of the main areas of difficulty Philpot says she’s encountered with product houses in the past is their unwillingness to provide samples unless a minimum order is met, making it difficult for small salons to grow their retail `from the outset. “A sampling service is really important for us because that client might have only ever used face wipes or be really budget conscious, so they’re not going to start spending that money without trying first,” says Philpot.

My massage style is influenced by techniques I’ve learned in the Far East, so I want to use my own movements, as well as those a brand shows me, and some don’t allow you to do that

“I understand how difficult it is for people who have those values to find somewhere for treatments where staff know what’s in the products,” says Philpot.

“With Sothys it’s really easy. The range isn’t entirely vegan but a big bulk of it is, and the brand provides me with a vegan statement so I know which products are fine.” The salon has a downloadable menu of vegan treatments on its website and recently put together

Selling up

Bodyworks’s average units-per-sale figure has increased since working with Sothys, and Philpot puts this down to link-selling with the help of samples, as well as the brand’s exclusivity to salons and spas.

“Big brands are chasing to sell on the high street, but the people selling them aren’t working with skin so I don’t see how they can recommend products. You can’t get to know a client’s skin across a counter,” says Philpot.

“If someone’s picking up a day cream I can sample them on the night, and nine times out of 10 they’ll take the night cream on their next visit,” she says. These factors all contribute to Philpot’s belief that she’s found a supplier that understands her business’s needs, something she feels is hard to come by in the current climate.

“Small salons, with all the hurdles we face, just aren’t being supported properly. We’re easily forgotten in favour of the bigger spas, and retailers. Too often there is a lack of understanding by the industry of what we need,” she says PB

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04/06/2019 11:35

Salon & Spa Connect Looking to find business solutions?

Join your fellow professionals to share experiences, knowledge and tips at a friendly and informal networking event.

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All images: Sparcstudio Design

Spa Design

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5

SPA design mistakes

Are you thinking of refurbishing your spa? Beverley Bayes, creative director of Sparcstudio, tells Amanda Pauley the five costly design mistakes to avoid and the key elements to factor in

1

Not making the most of your location

Beverley Bayes, creative director of Sparcstudio, which has worked on major projects including Dormy House Spa and The Spa at South Lodge, says to create a spa that’s truly unique you need to focus on your location. “A connection to the landscape is crucial, whether your spa is in a country or urban setting,” she says. “I love city spas that have a link to the outside, like with a rooftop pool. It’s about getting out there and not being hermetically sealed.”

A sense of heritage is also key. “The owners of Dormy House Spa in Worcestershire are Danish, so there’s a Scandinaviameets-the-Cotswolds influence throughout the spa, using natural materials and stone. This USP comes across in the palette to create something unique,” explains Bayes.

2

Overcomplicating the client journey Space planning is fundamental to any spa design and the focus should be on “building a sense of anticipation for the client in an intuitive, flowing journey”, says Bayes. “It’s amazing how many

beautiful spas have a journey that’s just completely illogical.”

Avoid the “schoolboy error” of wet and dry crossover areas, says Bayes, because “you’ll have clients arriving in their coats and walking through areas where people are in their spa robes and slippers”; take every opportunity to create special relaxation spots, such as a window seat where clients can snuggle in with a book; and be economic with corridor space because “you don’t want to spend lots of money heating and lighting big areas that don’t add anything to the experience,” she adds.

The layout should also work towards a big reveal, “so, throughout the journey, give clients glimpses into an area before opening them up to what I call the ‘money shot’,” adds Bayes. At The Spa at South Lodge in Horsham, clients walk down the stairs to the basement and along a corridor with slit windows before being brought into the infinity-edge pool area, which has >

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Spa Design

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Previous page, clockwise from top left: Dormy House infinity pool, the sauna and steam room at The Spa at South Lodge. This page, clockwise from top left: Dormy House Spa, The Spa at South Lodge’s pool, Dormy’s nail bar, Calcot Manor’s spa garden

glass walls that bring the countryside landscape inside.

“It’s brilliantly lit and very atmospheric, which makes it a ‘wow’ ending,” she says.

3

Focusing on style over substance

A beautiful design is pointless if the practicalities of running the spa operation aren’t built into it. “In terms of service routes, I’ve heard of spas where the only way to get towels in and out of key spaces is to trundle them across relaxation rooms, which isn’t ideal,” explains Bayes. Strategically placed towel dispensing and disposal units throughout are crucial so you can get rid of used items easily without disturbing clients.

You also need to invest in the specification of materials that work in humid environments. “You assume contractors will do that but spa is such a specialism – you really need to work with someone who understands which materials and lighting work in this particular environment, especially wet areas,” says Bayes.

“I’ve visited some newly-opened spas where they haven’t used the right materials for drainage, so pools of water start forming on the floor. You need to detail this practical stuff into your early design, otherwise you’ll be stuck with the issue for years to come.”

4

Not making it Instagrammable

You need to create signature spaces – areas that people will want to snap on their social media. “It’s about creating a dramatic vista (aka viewing point) where you can stand with your prospective spa member and say ‘voilà’, and they’re so impressed that they reply with, ‘sign me up now’,” explains Bayes.

These spaces could be a spa lounge with a central fireplace or a beautiful courtyard with a stunning garden. “It doesn’t have to be expensive to make it outstanding. For example, when it comes to spa gardens, don’t underestimate the joy of walking through a herb garden or relaxing on sculptural loungers that can be used in all weather – come rain or shine,” she adds. Check out Calcot Manor for an example of a beautiful wellness garden design.

5

Forgetting the finer details

Bayes also advises adding in small details that will “surprise and delight” your guests, making the experience more memorable. “Build in luxury touches and attention to detail in functional spaces such as changing rooms to further wow. This adds extra heart and soul,” she says.

“Beautifully lit vanity units are essential because they will ensure your clients are lit in the most flattering way and come away feeling really good about themselves.” This space should be also be stocked with high-quality amenities, such as hand creams, deodorants, and make-up remover, as well as numerous hairdryers and straighteners, and there should be relaxation areas where they can unwind.PB

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Promotional Feature

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Dismissal AND

redundancy

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Having to dismiss an employee is always stressful and disruptive, both for you and for the rest of your employees. However, you can take steps to help prevent this type of situation arising in the first place

hen you take on a new member of staff, use the probationary period wisely, advises Hilary Hall, chief executive of the National Beauty Federation (NBF).

“A formal period of induction and training will help your new employee feel part of the team and give them a clear understanding of what’s expected from day one.”

Explain who they will report to on a day-to-day basis, how the ongoing performance review process works, and who they should speak to if they have any questions or problems.

“Make the effort to monitor, mentor and support your new employees from the start,” says Hall. “This will pay dividends as both positive and negative feedback will be accepted more readily as part of the mix, avoiding the need for ‘difficult’ conversations out of the blue.” Find out how to reward your team for long-term success at nhf.info/reward

Dealing with underperformance If your employee repeatedly misses their targets and underperforms, you will need to discuss the situation with them.

“Remember you have a duty of care towards your employee, so be aware that there may be personal or workplace issues that are affecting their standard of work or attendance levels,” says Hall.

“Your first step will be to explore the various issues that may be affecting their performance – but don’t be critical or negative.

Say you know that they can make a great contribution to the success of the business and you want to help them do that.”

You’ll also need to ask yourself if you have given your employee clear goals to aim for and provided the training and support they need to do their job well. Find how to deal with a stressed employee at nhf.info/stressed-employee

When things don’t work out If your employee continues to underperform despite your best efforts to support them, you may need to start formal performance-management proceedings which could lead to dismissal.

NBF members can download free employee contracts and handbooks which set out what will happen if your employee consistently underperforms at work. Find out more at nhf.info/contracts

Making staff redundant The lawful reasons for redundancy are: • Your business closes permanently or temporarily.

•Y our business moves and your employee cannot get to the new place of work.

• Fewer

employees are needed to do the existing work.

Take legal advice before making anyone redundant to make sure you don’t break employment law.

Dismissal, redundancy and maternity “Be extra careful when dealing with employees who are pregnant or on maternity leave as they have special protection against discrimination,” warns Hall.

NBF members can download a free pregnancy and parenting guide, which includes in-depth information about employment rights in relation to pregnancy and parenting, at nhf.info/maternity-guide

Always take expert legal advice before starting performance-management proceedings or making staff redundant. NBF members can access a free 24/7 legal helpline. Find out more at nhf.info/legalbeauty

The NBF For less than 75p a day, the National Beauty Federation (NBF) will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without us. The NBF is the sister trade association of the National Hairdressers Federation (NHF). Find out more: nhf.info/nbf Join the NBF before the end of July 2019 and quote PBJ25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Join online at nhf.info/join Or call us on 01234 831965

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12/06/2019 15:12

BECOME A MEMBER OF THE UK’S LEADING MAGAZINE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY, NAIL AND SPA INDUSTRIES

Join us as a PB Gold Member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round. Your membership will include Annual print and digital subscription Access to membership lounges at Professional Beauty Shows Discounted Professional Beauty Insurance Plus much, much more

Find us on @pro_beauty pro_beauty01 ProfessionalBeautyUK

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13/05/2019 16:39

Salon Focus

95

Custom

made

Creating bespoke facials that blend non-invasive technologies with natural skincare has won Hampshire salon Face Matters a loyal client base and a long waiting list

W

ith savvy clients increasingly seeking out natural ingredients, yet unwilling to compromise on results, it can be hard to deliver treatments that meet their demands.

So, when Sally Curson opened Hampshirebased salon and store Face Matters two years ago, she knew she needed effective technologies to pair with the natural skincare brand she had created herself, also named Face Matters.

Curson trained as a therapist 30 years ago but stepped away from hands-on treatments while she created her skincare brand. “When I came back to it and opened my salon, I knew client demand had shifted. People definitely want visible results,” she says.

£60 per hour, regardless of products used, meaning every treatment is bespoke. “My core client tends to be women just turning 40, who really look after their bodies and realise they need to look after their skin better,” she says.

“I educate them that what I do is like the gym for your face – I use the Meso Lift to work on muscle tone, mesotherapy for product infusion, radiofrequency for lifting and tightening, and high frequency for the texture and tone of the skin. So, it’s a bit like going to the gym in that you don’t just go once and walk out with a six pack, you get progressive results so you have to keep coming back.”

Blending technologies

Growth plan

Initially, she launched her one-room treatment studio with radiofrequency and mesotherapy machines but soon wanted to broaden her offer and include additional technologies. “I went to the Professional Beauty show and the first stand I saw was Carlton Professional. They’re such an established brand and have a very wide range of technologies,” she says.

Curson bought Carlton machines including RF Pro Thermavisage, needle-free Meso Lift, High Frequency and Dermavisage. She now uses the technologies alongside her own natural skincare products, plus a few from Carlton and Italian range Dibi Milano, which Carlton also supplies.

“I cherry pick so I have everything I need, because clients book an hour of my time and I bespoke their facial on the day,” she explains. “With the choice of technologies and by mixing the products up I get some fabulous, tailored results.”

Working alone from her studio, three days a week, Curson now has a full column of loyal clients. She charges

In the future, Curson is looking to expand by adding more treatment rooms and by employing therapists to work alongside her, to accommodate growing demand. “I’m fully booked weeks in advance because everybody rebooks at least once a month,” she says. “The way I explain it is I charge £60 for an hour, so that works out at £2 a day, which is the price of a coffee, to have really fabulous skin for the rest of your life.”

She is also revamping her skincare line, focusing the messaging around skin health rather than anti-ageing and eliminating all unnecessary packaging. When it comes to the tech, though, she is sticking with Carlton. “It’s not just the quality of the machines, it’s the service,” she says. “When you call, you can speak to an engineer. Ultimately, I’m working with people’s faces so I need to know any machine is reliable.” PB

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Trend Watch

96

Light

the WAY

Spas are recognising their potential as places clients can go to address mental wellbeing issues. Georgia Seago takes a look at emotional healing retreats

T

hat clients now want more from their spa experience than a half-day of pampering and a glass of champagne in a hot tub is nothing new. But recently the boundaries of spa and what it can provide to guests is being explored, with forward-thinking spa specialists setting their sights on addressing clients’ whole lives, not just the knots in their backs.

Wellness retreats designed to work on guests’ emotional, as well as physical, wellbeing aim to provide a two-in-one escape and solution to the toll of the everyday on people’s mental and emotional health. The Light Retreat at Ockenden Manor in Cuckfield, Sussex, for example, is billed as a “transformational and wellness retreat” that aims to leave guests “energised, refocused and with a renewed sense of positivity and purpose.”

It’s run by holistic therapist and founder of The Light Technique Katie Light, who aims, with the retreat, to “help people get back to wellness, reconnecting with themselves, looking at the big picture of what they want to achieve and realigning their body and mind.”

Light believes that emotional wellness is becoming more of a focus for spas because of our toxic lifestyles. “These days, we are consumed by digital devices and social media and are time poor with no headspace, we have environmental concerns… I could go on.

We have to make sure we are looking at all aspects of health, body, mind and the emotions,” she says.

Even more vital than the emotional wellness guests achieve while on the retreat, are the tools they learn to carry on their development. “We have three transformational workshops designed to create lifestyle goals to put all that guests have discovered into practice when they leave,” says Light.

“It’s just as important for me to give each individual techniques to use and fit into their daily lives as it is to create a safe and relaxed space to retreat into.” PB

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Remedy Retreat, Lifehouse Spa & Hotel Lifehouse Spa & Hotel created this retreat to provide two nights of “complete relaxation” for those going through stress, burnout, bereavement, post-cancer recovery or any illness. Guests have a consultation with the spa’s naturopath, as well as two 55-minute Made For Life Organic treatments, an energy healing or Reiki session, use of the spa and garden, and complimentary fitness classes. The retreat can be tailored with personal mediation sessions and other holistic spa experiences.

Trend Watch

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The Light Retreat, Ockenden Manor Set in the hotel’s Elizabethan manor house and nine acres of tranquil grounds, the three-day programme includes a series of workshops and activities, such as classes on breathing techniques and self-massage, and a life-envisioning workshop.

Guests also have a 95-minute personalised Light Technique treatment with Katie Light, which combines intuitive massage with Reiki and neurolinguistic programming, a yoga class, candlelit meditation, an isopod floatation session and full use of Ockenden’s spa facilities.

Inner Resilience: an approach to managing stress, Grayshott Health Spa This retreat combines talks and discussions with creativity workshops, guided meditation and tailored exercise with a focus on stress reduction.

Over six nights, guests are guided to identify their own triggers and taught fresh approaches to managing stress through techniques that build inner resilience. The retreat also includes HeartMath coaching, a scientific system of tools and technologies used to help guests understand their emotions and behaviours and self-regulate to reduce stress.

Life Coaching Retreats, Champneys Health Spas Taking place monthly at Champneys properties around the country, these retreats call on various expert practitioners to help guests build a more positive life and equip them with the confidence to reach their goals.

Example retreats include Putting Yourself Back Into Your Life, a two-night break led by life coach, Reiki master and psychic medium Sandi Clark, where guests have energy healing sessions and take part in self-healing workshops such as emotion and energy management using colour.

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All images: Niche Nails & Beauty

Nail Notes

98

Price THE

is RIGHT

It’s easy to undercharge for nail art, but with high-street competition rife, it’s more important than ever to price your services correctly. Award-winning tech Natasha Barker explains how to ensure you get paid what you’re worth

A

re you nervous about pricing nail art – charging clients less than you should to ensure they don’t go to the salon down the road? When a client shows you a picture of what they’d like, does the thought of fitting the intricate design into their tight appointment slot turn you cold?

It’s a natural worry to have, and we’ve all been there, but there are some simple ways you can expand your nail art offering without compromising on time or the finished look for your client.

What nail art should I offer?

The quickest and simplest nail art option to add to your repertoire is a sprinkle of glitter or a splash of metallic foil. Whether it’s a full set of rock star nails, an accent nail or the popular glitter ombré, this technique can be done without adding any time to your standard gel-polish appointment, all the while boosting your income. Charge between £1 and £5 per nail for this add-on, and watch clients come back for more.

Stamping is another great way to add more to a look without putting too much pressure on yourself. It is the answer to quick, consistent and intricate-looking designs, and there are hundreds of stamping plate options to choose from that will keep your menu fresh.

This nail design method can also be mixed with other techniques such as chrome and glitter, making it a versatile and fun addition.

It usually takes around 10 to 15 minutes to do a full set of stamped nails, so charge an extra £10 for this service.

For many, the most dreaded type of nail art is freehand. When teaching this technique, I see the fear that learning the skill brings, but on the flipside, I also see the joy in techs’ eyes when they master it.

So, should you be scared of it? Hell, no. With the right tools and practice, you will surprise yourself with what you can achieve, but the

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Nail Notes

99

key is to keep working on the method behind the scenes until you’re confident enough to add it to your menu.

It’s also worth noting that this technique takes much longer than the other two mentioned, so give yourself at least an extra 30 minutes to complete the treatment on all 10 nails and remember to charge more than a standard gel-polish appointment for this work. I recommend adding an extra £15 minimum to the bill.

How do I price my nail art correctly?

An easy way to work it out in the short term is to price the art per nail, but this could prove too complicated a method in the long run; because as more customers find out about your nail art offering, you’ll soon find you’re not just doing the odd accent nail here and there, but full sets using multiple techniques. This could add a lot of time on to your standard gel-polish appointment for very little financial gain.

When this happens, you need to alter your price list to incorporate the extra work. The first option is to have a fixed-priced “add-on” to your standard treatment, which gives you an extra 15 minutes, depending on the technique, to complete the look. This should be charged at £5 to £15, depending on the method used, on top of your gel-polish manicure price.

The second option is to have set-price treatments offering different nail art appointments. For example: • Standard gel-polish manicure – 45 mins – £30 • G el-polish manicure with basic nail art (includes two accent nails) – 50 mins – £35 • G el-polish manicure with advanced nail art (includes glitter fade/foil/chrome or detailed accent nails) – 60 mins – £40 • G el-polish manicure with detailed nail art (includes stamping and glitter/hand painting /multiple nail art) – 75 mins – £45.

This pricing can be modified to suit your nail art options and different staff members, from trainees to pros, giving everyone a chance to improve their knowledge. PB

Natasha Barker is owner of Niche Nails & Beauty in Oxfordshire, which won Nail Salon of the Year at the 2019 Professional Beauty Awards. Barker is also a CND education ambassador and Light Elegance educator.

Boost your nail profits with these helpful videos 2019 nail trends and how to wear them

Nail techs – how to be a social media pro

From matte nudes and leather to colour chromes, Gemma Lambert-Lewis, owner of The Nail Team, talks us through this year’s biggest nail looks.

Tinu Bello, founder of Colour Riot Nails, reveals how to make your mark

Watch at professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbtvnails

Watch at professionalbeauty.co.uk/pbtvnails

on social media, from the platforms to be on and hashtags to use, to what you need to create the perfect nailfie.

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Treatment News

101 Elemis Peptide 24/7 Skin Sync Facials To accompany the launch of its two new Peptide 4 products – Adaptive Day Cream and Plumping Pillow Facial – Elemis has created two facials. One is based around touch and the other on technology, using the Biotec machine. Each is available as a one-hour treatment or as either 15-minute or 30-minute express versions.

The hands-on Peptide 24/7 Skin Sync targets tired-looking skin, using specialised facial massage techniques that help to boost the circulation. This leaves skin fresher and brighter and improves absorption of the active ingredients in the Peptide 4 products, which include honesty seed oil to help support the skin’s moisture barrier and Swiss botanical extracts to boost skin’s natural defences.

Meanwhile, the Biotec 24/7 Skin Sync facial combines these botanical formulations with a

WIDE

deep-cleansing ultrasonic peel, LED light therapy, and galvanic current to lift and stimulate.

Elemis charges £100 for the one-hour hands-on facial and £115 for the Biotec version at its House of Elemis flagship and recommends adjusting the prices based on location. Call the brand on 0117 316 1888

awake

A duo of facials helps clients’ skin to look rested, and we put a new, eye-opening lash lift to the test

This month we tried… Lashus The Lift The lowdown: The recently launched lash-lifting brand developed by Sweet Squared, Lashus is designed to be gentle to the natural lashes, with any non-essential aggravators stripped out. Lashus educator Helen BurtonWard visited the PB offices to treat editor Eve Oxberry and features editor Georgia Seago to a lunchtime lift.

The experience: Having both had a patch test and initial consultation a few days in advance, we were confident we wouldn’t have a reaction to either the lifting or tinting products.

The treatment itself began with another more detailed consultation before BurtonWard helped us choose the right look for our lashes.

We both wanted a dramatic look so agreed on a small shield to provide a deep curl.

After cleansing, Burton-Ward used an adhesive pad to gently keep the lower lashes out of the way before applying the shield then the Lift Lotion to the upper lashes. This was left on for 10 minutes before Burton-Ward removed it and painted on the Fix Lotion. After another 10 minutes the second lotion

was removed and it was time for the tint. Lashus’s tint is a rich blue-black, designed to help even the darkest lashes look coated and lengthened.

The verdict: We were both very impressed with the finished look – which gave a dramatic impact without looking false.

With naturally fine lashes, Eve was still reaching for the mascara after 24 hours but the lift looked amazing.

Georgia looked instantly more rested and bright-eyed and has stayed mascara-free since. Six weeks on and both lifts are still going strong.

Business benefits: Lash Lifts are booming in popularity and a great way to reach clients who can’t be bothered with the maintenance of extensions. With comparatively low product costs, Sweet Squared says lash techs can make an average profit of around £36 per treatment.

Tried by Eve Oxberry and Georgia Seago Sweet Squared recommends charging from £45 for the treatment, which takes between 45 and 60 minutes. Call the company on 0333 000 7000 professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Elemis The latest addition to the Ultra Smart Pro-Collagen range is wrinkle-fighting Aqua Infusion Mask, which uses a combination of three technologies to rejuvenate skin. The brand’s Ultra Smart Hydra-Infusion Complex improves barrier function by preventing water loss; Aqua Shuttle Technology slowly diffuses encapsulated hydrating actives to nourish skin; and Line Fighting Complex targets deep-set lines and wrinkles using a blend of three potent algae and orange African bulbine.

RRP: £120 for 50ml 0117 316 1888 elemis.com

Skin defense

New Products

103

This month’s launches include products that improve and protect the skin’s barrier function, plus devices that help to prolong the effects of advanced facials

Murad

CND High summer means California dreaming for CND, with the introduction of Prismatic, a five-strong collection inspired by tie-die colour clash. Ultraviolet is a dynamic purple; Dimensional a muted blue, Psychedelic a hot magenta, Holographic a bubblegum pink and Aura a sophisticated emerald.

All five are available in Vinylux polish, while Psychedelic, Holographic and Aura are also available in Shellac.

Trade: £4.95 per Vinylux 15ml; £13.95 per Shellac 7.3ml 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Prebiotic 4-in-1 MultiCleanser is a gel-tooil cleanser formulated to nourish skin and balance its microbiome while removing makeup. Key ingredients are hemisqualane, a plant-based emollient to dissolve make-up, and prebiotic powder to feed the skin’s good bacteria. Prebiotic 3-in-1 MultiMist includes yeast peptide to support a healthy microbiome environment and biopolymer complex to help prime the skin for make-up.

Trade: £20.58 for the cleanser 150ml, £16.25 for the mist 100ml 0844 472 7050 murad.co.uk

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New Products

104 Salon System

HD Brows

The Lashlift Pro Tool is a dual-ended device for application of lashes.

One end helps to lift lashes up and onto Lashlift curlers, while the other separates and straightens any strays. The tool is made from sanitisable and autoclavable brushed stainless steel and has been designed by lash experts to be ergonomic and versatile.

Trade: £6.75 020 8573 9907 salonsystem.com

The Better Brows trio comprises three key products to help get client’s brows in peak condition.

Brow Maximiser was shown in tests to increase brow density by 60% in four weeks and works on keratin genes that thicken and fortify hairs. Regrowth Minimiser contains volcanic water and aloe vera to soften hairs and reduce the appearance of regrowth. Finally, Tint Lock Serum is packed with amino acids to prolong the wear of brow dye between treatments and helps to repair and strengthen hairs.

RRPs: £25 for Tint Lock Serum; £55 for Brow Maximiser; £30 for Regrowth Minimiser 0113 224 7908 hdbrows.com

Cryosculpture Cryosculpture is now UK and Ireland distributor for BeArt – a non-invasive device that minimises the appearance of stretch marks and cellulite. Using a combination of three patented technologies – soft peeling, soft vacuum and electromagnetic fields – it causes vascularisation and oxygenation of the skin tissue, resulting in the reactivation of sodium and potassium, which stimulate fibroblasts. This boosts collagen and elastin production, increasing cell mitosis, which leads to skin regeneration and minimisation of stretch marks.

Trade: from £18,900 020 3488 4058 cryosculpture.com

Jane Iredale There’s a second product being launched in celebration of Jane Iredale’s 25th anniversary. Following the release of its limited-edition Complexion Perfection Kit (see PB June 2019, page 97) the mineral make-up brand has launched Silver Refillable Compact. The sleek, lightweight compact is made from recyclable plastic and can house any Jane Iredale pressed powder.

Trade: £12 020 8450 2020 (IIAA) janeiredale.co.uk

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BeArt is the first device in the world capable of removing stretch marks.

Be the first to bring it to your area!

Stretch marks are reduced by 83%1.

Different methods have been tried to treat stretch marks but here

none of them achieved a complete result, especially when the stretch mark is old. Furthermore, the re-pigmentation of the stretch mark was - so far - impossible as the skin constituting the stretch mark no longer contains melanocytes.

here

With BeArt the whole skin is regenerated, the stretch mark furrow progressively closes and the skin starts to produce melanocytes again. For the first time in the history of aesthetic medicine the skin tissue of the stretch mark can tan again under simple solar exposure.

BeArt combines different technologies, including electromagnetic fields, that have been adapted into a simple and easy procedure for beauty salons and clinics.

All treatments are non-invasive, safe and comfortable.

BeArt also provides body and breast toning treatments, as well as face and neck rejuvenation.

Get the machine RISK FREE with our ZERO INVESTMENT UP FRONT revenue-share financing option2.

Cryosculpture – Exclusive distributor for the UK and Ireland

Cryosculpture.com 1

|

info@cryosculpture.com

|

020 3488 4058

Average reduction of the stretch marks: 83% (minimum 72% and maximum 100%) - Scientific research conducted by the School of Dermatology of Pisa (Italy).

2

Option available for a limited number of UK and Ireland-based beauty salons.

106 New Products

Orly

Repêchage New from the seaweed-based skincare brand is the Vita Cura Gold collection. It comprises B3 Elixir Complex, an intense moisturising complex to target visible signs of ageing with two forms of hyaluronic acid; B3 Serum Complex, formulated to lift and firm skin and reduce the appearance of large pores; and B3 Lifting Mask, a sheet mask saturated with seaweed and niacinamide, ingredients chosen to create an immediate, temporary lifted look.

Trade: from £38 for a pack of five masks 0800 731 7546 beautyfromthesea.co.uk

Spotlight

There are two new summer polish collections from Orly. Euphoria comprises six shades available in polish and Gel FX: royal blue It’s Brittney, Beach; teal glitter What’s the Big Teal; pale blue On Your Wavelength; dusky pink Rosé All Day; peach glitter Warm it Up; and hot coral Muy Caliente. Meanwhile, the Dusk to Dawn collection from the Breathable range includes charcoal-grey Dive Deep, white-blue Marine Layer, tan Trailblazer, light-nude Adventure Awaits, darkcoral Sunkissed and bronze-shimmer Bronze Ambition.

Trade: £6.13 per 18ml for polish, £13.95 per 9ml for Gel FX and £7.13 per 18ml for Breathable 01827 280 080 graftons.co.uk

Flexi

Beauty tool brand Flexi was founded by the owners of London salon Angelica Retreat as a solution for clients to maintain their results from facial treatments between appointments. The brand is now available for other salons to take on and retail to clients or use in facials.

Angelica Retreat owner Gillian Potter says she developed the range in response to the growing popularity of advanced facials in the salon, which is leading to more client interest in resultsfocused homecare.

There are four tools in the range: The Microneedler, The Sculptor, The Roller and The Cleanser.

The Microneedler has 0.25mm needles to rejuvenate skin by creating microchannels in the top layer, helping increase cell turnover and collagen production and encourage the skin to renew.

Made from rose quartz, The Sculptor is inspired by an ancient Chinese beauty tool

that is shaped to lift, tone and define facial muscles. It is also billed as helping detoxify and encourage lymphatic drainage. The Roller is also made from rose quartz and has a smaller end for use around the eyes, designed to remove toxins and excess fluids from the lymphatic system and help de-puff.

Finally, The Cleanser is a silicone cleansing brush that uses gentle bristles to deep cleanse the skin and remove dirt, oil and make-up.

It uses sonic pulses at high and low frequencies to boost blood circulation and increase the effectiveness of cleansing products.

Flexi is offering a free display stand and set of sample tools for salons ordering a minimum of 24 units.

Trade: from £15 for The Roller 07792 399195 flexiskinlondon.co.uk

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New Products

108 Hempz New for summer is Hempz’s Citrine Crystal & Quartz collection, which aims to rejuvenate clients’ skin and mood, featuring a Body Wash, Body Moisturiser, Body Buff and Face, Body and Hair Hydrating Mist. Key ingredients in the 100% vegan range include essential fatty acid hemp seed oil to nourish dry skin, quartz dust to give a dewy glow, antioxidant vitamin C to fight against UV radiation, shea butter to hydrate, and citrus oil to degrease and brighten.

Trade: From £3.50 to £10 020 8498 7279 (JK Group UK) hempzbeauty.com

Nilo Spa Design Spa furniture brand Nilo has launched its Tugu Massage Bed to the UK market. Part of the Balinese collection and inspired by the atmosphere and aesthetic of spas in Bali, the bed has a light natural teak structure with cream coloured vinyl upholstery and a manual height-adjustment mechanism. There is also a matching trolley in the collection.

Trade: £2,290 020 3207 2032 (Maletti) nilo-beauty.com/en

Artdeco The brand’s summer collection Make Up Your Sunset Stories is inspired by beach holidays. The eight-piece set comprises the velvet-textured All Seasons Bronzing Powder; peach Bronzing Blush Heat Beat; bronzing powder and highlighter combo Glow Bronzer; creamy Black Kajal “Black” No1 liner; Volume Supreme Mascara “Black” No1; bronzing mousse Tan in a Tube; limited-edition Blusher Brush; and sparkling lipstick Lip Jewels, available in shimmery Pink Positive or sun-kissed Summer Lights.

RRP: from £6.80 to £30 028 9061 7403 (Chleo Enterprises) chleoenterprises.co.uk

Lecenté Salon accounts of the glitter brand can look forward to trying the new glitters and foils in Lecenté’s Summer Collection. There are two glitters – pink Fairytale and multi-glitter Fantasy, both available in new Super Holo Multi Glitz cuts; plus six striking foils – Rainbow Shimmer, Neon Leopard, Pink Shimmer, Cerulean, Opalescent and Clearly Oil Slick.

Trade: £3.99 per foil; £6.95 per glitter 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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110 New Products

Medik8 With the Korean “glass skin” trend fuelling consumer desire for a flawless complexion, Medik8 has created Clarity Peptides, a complex that tackles blemish-causing bacteria, leaving skin brighter and clearer.

Crystalide targets the natural protein responsible for cell waste, which can cause a dull complexion; 10% niacinamide blocks the transfer of melanin pigments into skin cells, helping to slow down the process of pigmentation; and Zinc PCA minimises sebum production, reducing blemishes and inflammation.

RRP: £40 for 30ml 020 8712 6020 medik8.com

Aromatherapy Associates The Ultimate Bath and Shower Oil Collection presents 10 x 9ml miniatures of the brand’s best-selling essential oil blends in a sophisticated gift box, allowing clients to sample the benefits of aromatherapy. The 10 blends are: Deep Relax, Light Relax, De-Stress Mind, De-Stress Muscle, Revive Morning, Revive Evening, Support Breathe, Support Lavender & Peppermint, Support Equilibrium, and Inner Strength.

RRP: £65 020 8569 7030 aromatherapyassociates.com

Skinceuticals Cosmeceutical skincare brand Skinceuticals is launching two kits, each containing three products put together as a regime for clients concerned with either ageing or blemishes. The Age Renewal System is designed to tackle loss of elasticity and signs of photo-damage, with C E Ferulic antioxidant serum; H A Intensifier, a hyaluronic acid serum to plump the skin; and Retinol 0.3, a night cream with 0.3% retinol in a steady release system.

The Clarifying Skin System contains Blemish + Age Cleanser Gel, Blemish + Age Defense and Phyto Corrective.

RRP: £220 for Age Renewal; £140 for Clarifying 0161 875 4274 skinceuticals.co.uk

Teresa Tarmey Advanced facialist Teresa Tarmey has added to her range of products designed to recreate her signature facials with the Teresa Tarmey Medical LED System. Available for purchase by other skincare professionals, the LED system was developed with professional LED brand Dermalux. It uses blue 415nm, red 633nm and near infrared 830nm lights via single wavelength LEDs. The portable device has a flexible canopy that can be removed and positioned flat for use on the body. It comes with seven treatment protocols, training and consumables.

Trade: £1,800 020 3561 3479 teresatarmey.com

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Classified

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CALL NUR TANYERI on 020 7349 4796 or email nur@professionalbeauty.co.uk

The brand trusted by thousands of spas and therapists.

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Career Path

112

How to make it as a...

Session

TECH

Samantha Cox, owner of The Daily Nail and nail art trainer for Gerrard International, reveals how to make a name for yourself as a leading session tech

1. Build your contacts “I’ve always had a passion for nails and fashion.

“A good trick is to do models’ feet first so they

Having worked for Nails Inc in the North East for five

can put their shoes on if they need to do a first

years, I decided to branch out and open my business

walkthrough for the runway, which happens a lot.

The Daily Nail in 2009. I started working with nail brand

Use lacquer rather than gel as it saves time on

Jessica, which is distributed by Gerrard International,

application. Models often smudge their nails during

and that’s when I began to chase my dream of

the run through too, so you’ll most likely need to

becoming a session tech as they helped me source

reapply a nail or two. I often help models get

some work.

dressed to reduce the risk of this happening.”

“It was tough to get my name on the map at first because I’m based in Newcastle and a lot of the work

3. A good attitude is everything

is in London, but I persevered and now have jobs

“Whether you get booked again comes down to

including London Fashion Week, editorial shoots for

your personality, work ethic and how you cope

The Daily Mail and working with the Geordie Shore

with stressful situations. You have to be professional,

cast under my belt.

efficient and able to work under pressure. My first

“However, social media is now the best place

London Fashion Week was tough because it was

to find people advertising for help on shows. Follow

such a different environment to what I was used to.

the #fashionweek and #sessionwork hashtags and

The focus is on getting the models out on the runway

you’ll find out which nail techs are working which

ASAP, rather than taking your time and building up

shows. Direct message them to see if they need

a rapport like you would in a salon. Be polite but

help. It may be an unpaid job as an apprentice but

efficient, following your notes carefully to make

it will lead to paid work in the future. It’s all about

sure you nail the design.”

making contacts.”

2. Be adaptable

4. Put in the hard graft “People think session work is glamourous but it’s not;

“Working these events is really chaotic. At the fashion

it’s long days and really hard work. You are called in

weeks, you have to work on a model at the same time

early with only an hour or two to get all your models

as a make-up artist and hairdresser. I often find myself

ready, you have to muck in and help others who are

sitting on the floor, working in crazy positions to get the

struggling, and you can’t leave until the runway has

nails done. Your nail knowledge needs to be strong,

started. Also, your travel won’t always be paid for. I’m

too. It’s about knowing which fast-drying products are

lucky enough to get it covered but when starting out,

best and how to apply polish quickly without it being

you may need to foot the bill like I did until you

too thick.

become more established.” PB

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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