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PRIM no. 10 - fearless fashion

FEARLESS FOREVER, FOREVER FEARLESS

JEREMY SCOTT VENA CAVA LA ROUX ROBERT GELLER TODD LYNN emin jonathan segade pedro reguera YUSUKE MIYAZAKI

NO.10 Cover no. 10 shot by emin


THIS Coat: jeremy scott gloves: etro


IS TH

IS TH Coat: jeremy scott gloves: etro


HE

HE


REBIRT

RE BIR TH.

Coat: jeremy scott gloves: etro


THE

TH.

PRIM


PRIM

Editor in Chief & Creative Contributors Director Abby Rostochil Kristin Prim Alex Kazemi Alyssa Hardy Managing Editor Angela Alba Alex Kazemi Annabell Dalton Antonia Hanyden Publisher Ashley Bartlett Prim Magazine, Inc. Audrey Greene Audrey Rogers Printing Caitlin McNulty Heidel Print Co. Ltd. Carmen Gutierrez 23-1 Sunae-dong, Suite Charleston Matthews A1407 Daiana Folea Budang, Seongnam 463Gabriella Moses 854 Gaelle Koumou South Korea Gwen Jakubisin Jasmine Santiago Advertising Jeanie Annan-Lewin Nora Ferrandino, MariaJen Jaconelli Grace Villano Jennifer Jewels primmagazine@live.com

Jourdana Abrahams Laura Havlin Lauren Felix Liane Eltan Lisa Bonomo Liz Jeneault Lovisa Drever Marta Represa Micaela Mota Michelle Winter Mona Ascha Raheem Brown Sara McCulloch Sarah Sopab Shazmin Borlandoe Willie Norris

Contributing Photographers Alexander Neumann Alice Rosati Andoni & Arantxa Billy Winters Brendan Burdzinski Cameron James Emin Jonathan Segade Junichi Kikunichi Kumiko Yashiro Paul Farrell Pedro Reguera Piczo Sergio Kurhajec Teneshia Carr Toshio Onda Yusuke Miyazaki

Contributing Stylists Ai Kamoshita Beagy Zielinski Elle Noble Emma Pritchard Gillian Steinhardt Irene De Santis Katie Burnett Kattaca Lauren Grant Machiko Abe Masaki Kataoka Maya Yamashita Pauline Montupet Sara Bascu単an Svetlana Prodanic Yoshi Miyamasu

Last issue's spread, Vogel Max: Ever Lingering Soul, Ruthlessly Seeking Salvation, A Tale by Reno Ranger, was photographed by Reno Ranger. Model: Max Vogel @ Izaio Models Berlin, Makeup & Hair: Tanja Henning, Stylist: Jennifer Hahn

Cover No. 10. Photographed by Emin. Styled by Emma Pritchard. Hair by Lacy Redway. Makeup by Azra Red. Modeled by Madeleine @ Marilyn. Retouched by Helios Photographic. Madeleine wears a Jeremy Scott coat and Etro gloves Opposite page: Madeleine wears a Camilla and Marc bodysuit and a Gar-De fur cuff


FEARLESSFASHION. Photography by Emin Styling by Emma Pritchard

Hair by Lacy Redway. Makeup by Azra Red. Modeled by Madeleine @ Marilyn. Retouched by Helios Photographic.


Coat: Jeremy Scott Gloves: Etro


Shirt: Rock & Republic Skirt: Manish Arora


Top: Iceberg Bodysuit: Vintage Eres Shoes: Christian Louboutin


Jacket and Tights: Jean Paul Gaultier Shoes: Madison Harding


Coat: Jeremy Scott Gloves: Etro

Dress: Toni Maticevski Ankle Straps (Wrist): Dekkori


Cardigan: Helmut Lang Underwear: Agent Provocateur Shorts: Camilla and Marc

Coat: Jeremy Scott Gloves: Etro


Coat: Jeremy Scott Gloves: Etro

Bodysuit: Camilla and Marc Cuffs: Gar-De


Cardigan: Helmut Lang Underwear: Agent Provocateur Shorts: Camilla and Marc Glove: H&M

Coat: Jeremy Scott Gloves: Etro


PRIM

PHOTOGRAPHY Andoni & Arantxa Brendan Burdzinak Teneshia Carr Paul Farrell Junichi Kikunichi Sergio Kurhajec Yusuke Miyazaki Alexander Neumann Toshio Onda Piczo Pedro Reguera Alice Rosati Jonathan Segade Cameron-James Wilson Billy Winters


DE SIR Photographed by Jonathan Segade, Styled by Sara Bascu単an, Makeup & Hair by Fran Llobat, Modeled by Aline @ Metropolitan Models


Blazer: Calvin Klein Belt: Chanel Ring: Vintage Chanel Bracelets: Stylist’s Own


Shirt: Vintage Chanel Panties: Eres Necklace: Stylist’s Own


CEL ESTE

Photographed by Paul Farrell, Styled by Lauren Grant assisted by Elle Noble, Modeled by Gabriella @ Select, Hair by Tomi using L’Oreal Professional, Makeup by Jose Bas using XXXXXX


Headpiece: Tomihiro Kono


FEMME

FE TA LE Photographed by Toshio Onda, Styled by Yoshi Miyamasu @ Signo assisted by Atsushi Nagao and Shotaro Yamaguchi, Hair by Teiji Utsumi @ Bluerooms assisted by Fukumi Makino, Makeup by Mina Nodo @ Signo, Modeled by Sasha Luss @ Donna


Dress: HISUI


Jacket, Leg Cover, Leggings, Boots, and Gloves: G.V.G.V. Belt: MIHARAYASIHIRO Necklace: ATELIER SWAROVSKI by Christopher Kane


Dress and Skirt: G.V.G.V. Shoes: Carlota Joakina Necklace: Issey Miyake Bracelets: Sisco


SHADOW

CASTING Photographed by Alexander Neumann, Styled by Masaki Kataoka assisted by Yuri Nagai, Makeup by Fumiaki Nakagawa for MAC Cosmetics, Modeled by Megan McNierney @ Marilyn


Dress: Helmut Lang


Jacket: Staerk


Dress: Helmut Lang


Jacket: D&G


SEN SUA LITE Photographed by Jonathan Segade, Styled by Sara Bascu単an, Makeup by Susana Santos, Modeled by Anna Didenko @ Marilyn


Culote and Bra: ERES Necklace: Moss Intropia


Dress: Armand Basi, Belt: El Caballo, Handbag: Escada, Turban: Vintage


Turban: Vintage, Necklace: Friis & Co.


Coat: Escada


ET AGE NOI R Photographed by Andoni & Arantxa, Styled by Irene De Santis, Makeup by Andreja Mrhar, Hair by Daniella Moreno, Modeled by Ieva Birzina @ Next


Shirt: Gucci Man


Shirt: Gucci Man Trousers: Givenchy Sandals: Baldinini Tie: Levi’s Glove: AB A Brand Apart


Sweater: Gianfranco FerrĂŠ Trousers and Necklace: Nude Bracelet: Accessorize Shoes: Baldinini


Sweater: Gianfranco FerrĂŠ Trousers and Necklace: Nude Bracelet: Accessorize Shoes: Baldinini


Underwear: Mariella Burani


N O C T U R N O P h o t o g r a p h e d b y S e r g i o K u r h a j e c , S t y l e d b y G i l l i a n S t e i n h a r d t , H a i r b y A l b e r t o G u z m a n @ J u d y C a s e y, M a k e u p b y J a n e i r o @ J u d y C a s e y, M o d e l e d b Y D e a n n a M i l l e r @ N E X T


Dress: Iceberg Bracelets: Fallon Necklace: Yigal Azrouel Earrings: Made Her Think


Top: Badgley Mischka Pants: Allesandro dell’Acqua Belt: Vintage Southpaw NY Collar: Phillip Lim


WONDER L AND Photographed by Pedro Reguera Styled by Kattaca, Hair by Iker Urcelay, Makeup by Ana Fernandez, Modeled by Ema Busson, Assisted by Felipe Maqui and Luis Veloso


Tutu and Skirt: Carlos Diez Paper Ruffle: It-Spain Vest: Lydia Delgado Belt and Pants: Moschino Bracelets: H&M


Dress: Amaya Arzuaga, Top: Prada, Jacket: Juanjo Oliva


Tutu and Skirt: Carlos Diez, Paper Ruffle: It-Spain, Vest: Lydia Delgado, Belt and Pants: Moschino, Bracelets: H&M, Shoes: Manish Arora


Pants and Watch: Armand Basi One, Skirt: Amaya Arzuaga, Belt Loop: Juanjo Oliva, Skirt: It-Spain, Collar: Spher, Shoes: Moschino


LACE NOIR Photographed by Junichi Kikunichi, Styled by Katie Burnett, Makeup by Anna Hanson, Hair by Koji Takayanagi for Bumble and Bumble, Modeled by Ben & Jacob @ Storm


Top: Lina Osterman Pants: Omar Kashoura


Suit: Keith Grey


Coat: Tim Hamilton


Coat: Keith Grey Pants: Tim Hamilton


REPTILIA GOTHIQUE

P h o t o g r a p h e d b y Y u s u k e M i ya z a k i a s s i s t e d b y M a s ay u k i I c h i n o s e , S t y l e d b y A i K a m o s h i t a a s s i s t e d b y M aya Ya m a s h i t a , M a k e u p b y K e n N a k a n o f o r M . A . C . , H a i r b y S o i c h i I n a g a k i f o r K i e h l ’ s


Top: Yusuke Hotchi Trousers: Jamie Cockerill


Dress: Yusuke Hotchi Gloves and Tights: Fettered Pleasure Top: Calvin Klein Bangles: Freedom


Dress: Yusuke Hotchi Bodice: Jamie Cockerill Gloves: Fettered Pleasure


BRONZEN PHOTOGRAPHED BY Piczo

Styled by Kumiko Yashiro, Hair by Hiroshi Matsushita for Bumble & Bumble, Makeup by Ken Nakano for M.A.C., Modeled by Vera @ Select


Jacket: E.G... Leggings: Fanny and Jessy Shoulder Piece: Mungo Gurney Belt: Gemma Slack Necklace and Bracelet: Pebble


Jacket: Reem Top: Sosume Leggings: Arnsdorf Belt: Mungo Gurney Necklace: Pebble


Jacket: Reem Top: Sosume Leggings: Arnsdorf Belt: Mungo Gurney Necklace: Pebble


Jacket: E.G... Leggings: Fanny and Jessy Shoulder Piece: Mungo Gurney Belt: Gemma Slack Necklace and Bracelet: Pebble


Jacket: Paul & Joe, Bodysuit: Georgia Hardinge, Necklace and Rings: Imogen Belfield, Bracelet: Pebble, Shoes: Matthew Taylor


BLIND NESS

Photographed by Teneshia Carr, Styled by Svetlana Prodanic, Hair by Kunio Kohzaki, Makeup by Kate Goodwin, Modeled by Rachel Rutt @ Next, Retouched by Bethany Wood


Top: Daniel Lee Necklace: Aminaka Wilmont Trousers: Qasimi


Gloves: Nike Necklace: Erickson Beamon Dress: Pierre Garroudi


Dress: American Apparel Necklece: Erickson Beamon


J eanne D ’ A rc

Photographed by Brendan Burdzinak assisted by Aslan Chalom, Styled by Beagy Zielinski, Makeup by Theresia Pistel, Hair by Nikki Nelms, Modeled by Taylor D @ Ford Top: Balenciaga, Skirt: Hannah Marshall, Gloves: L’Armoire Du Styliste


Dress: Lanvin Necklace: Club Monaco Tights: L’Armoire Du Styliste Shoes: Pierre Hardy


Jacket: Rick Owens Socks: L’Armoire Du Styliste Shoes: Pierre Hardy


APPREHEND Photographed by Yusuke Miyazaki assisted by Sayuri Ichida, Styled by Machiko Abe, Hair by Takeshi, Makeup by Kanako Yoshida for M.A.C. Pro, Modeled by Fletcher Cowan @ Premier Model Management


Top and Trousers: Kim Wilkins


Coat and Trousers: Robert Huth


Waistcoat and Jeans: RoCoCo, Necklace: Number(N)ine


THE OTHER SIDE

Photographed by Billy Winters assisted by Tressa Pack, Styled by Pauline Montupet assisted by Chaz Schaad, Hair by Steve Elias, Makeup by Mariana Stanojevich, Modeled by John Von Tesmar @ City and Nick Hinman @ Wilhelmina Top: Micaela Greg, Neckpiece: Kittinhawk, Top Hat: Costumes on Haight


Coat: Jeremy Scott Gloves: Etro

Coat: Raf Simons Pants: Marc Jacobs Sunglasses: Maison Martin Margiela (M.A.C.) Boots: J Shoes (Bulo Shoes)


Shirt: Timo Weiland, Legging: Micaela Greg, Boots: Vintage, Bracelets: Von Kottwitz, Tie: J. Crew


PRIM

INTERVIEWS

JEREMY SCOTT L.A.’s golden boy TODD LYNN Rock n’ Roll’s fashion darling LA ROUX Androgynous U.K. Hitmaker ROBERT GELLER Menswear Couturier SOPHIE BUHAI & LISA MAYOCK FASHION’S BRIGHTEST DUO


JERE MY. SCOT T. Interview by Alex Kazemi and Lovisa Drever


Jeremy Scott: L.A.’s Golden


Alex Kazemi: Why do you choose to incorporate pop culture as frequently as you do in your designs? Jeremy Scott: Yes, I am a product of a pop-culture-massmarket-shopping mall-multi-media-made world fused with a love of the surreal. Kazemi: Were you always drawn to pop culture while growing up? Scott: As a child I was fascinated with Andy Warhol more as a person than for his art or what he represented; to me that was being a part of pop culture itself. It’s hard for us to imagine another world as most the people reading this right now grew up only in a pop world; that’s all we have known but there was a world before! Although dusty and gray, there really was a world before pop. I’m not inspired by the pre-pop world. I’m curious as to how long this pop world will last; I can’t imagine anything else!

Scott: Well, I love Pixie and her cute lil face! She’s a total inspiration and muse! I thought a lot about her while designing this collection; she’s got the punk spirt that I dreamt of when I designed the collection. Drever: Is there a certain aesthetic your models are required to have? Scott: I love individualistic people with personality so I often use more inspiring and less traditional models. I’m more inspired by personality than common beauty. Kazemi: Do you have a personal favorite piece from your S/S 2010 collection? Scott: Well normally I do not have favorites because my designs are like little children to me, but my golden child would be my black leather jacket with tails because I want to wear it myself!

Kazemi: When did you realize that your true love was fashion? Was it something that you tried to deny or embrace? Scott: Oh, I always loved clothes as a child! I was very particular about what I would wear and how I put it together. From the age fourteen and on I was more aware of high fashion, designers and not just brands at the mall. When I was really young I wore thirft store clothes. I grew up very poor and had to shop there; I loved it! When I was older and I could choose whether I wanted to shop there or not, I still went! I enjoy the originality of having things that other people don’t have; it’s what sets us apart. I still love wearing vintage clothes today.

Drever: Can you give us any insight on the unreleased F/W 2011 collection? What should we expect? Scott: Expect faaaaaaasssssshhhhhhiiiiiionnnnnnnn!

Kazemi: Is there a particular reason for the reoccurring Disney references in your work? Scott: Mickey is an icon that is globally recognized. He has meaning to so many people which makes him a great vessel to carry a message.

Kazemi: Do you feel that residing in Los Angeles has made a large impact on your designing process? Scott: Not really! I live in L.A., stay in New York, show in Europe, work with a German brand, and love Tokyo. I’m a child of the world! L.A. is a wonderful - truly wonderful place to live. I work well here because there isn’t a lot to distract me and the life is lush! So if it has affected me, it has done only for the better!

Lovisa Drever: Was Adidas the first sports brand you looked to collaborate with? Scott: Yes, Adidas was the first sports brand I looked to collaborate with, and it’s been a wonderful and successful marriage ever since! I love how Adidas has had a role in pop culture, music, and art movements. It has meant a lot of different things to a lot of different people. I think that’s a wonderful quality which I try to achieve. Drever: Did you have a hard time toning down your designs for more mainstream audiences in the Adidas collection? Scott: I treated Adidas as my own! Drever: Were there boundaries you had to stay within? Scott: I had nothing but free range. Kazemi: Which muse has most significantly influenced your work? Scott: Without a doubt that would be the love of my life, my best friend, Pablo. He constantly inspires me and is my driving force. I am still in awe of him and have been ever since we first met. Drever: Pixie Geldof rocked the Flinstone look in your S/S 2010 show. Is she someone you reached out to specifically?

Kazemi: Do you ever look back on your collections and regret designing a piece? Scott: I never really regret anything. Drever: So you feel this is all a part of creative growth? Scott: Everything is growth. Everything I’ve done has been sincere at that moment and that time.

Drever: Have you ever seen someone wearing your designs? What is the quintessential way to wear a Jeremy Scott piece? Scott: Yes I have! It’s always wonderfully flattering to see someone wearing something I’ve designed. I especially love it when people make it their own. That’s the most flattering! Kazemi: What was your experience at Pratt Institute? Scott: Pratt was a wonderful school experience; it was the true college life I would have seen in the movies growing up. I lived on the campus and still have many friends I made there then today. Tons of great memories! Kazemi: What is currently on repeat on your iPod at the moment? Scott: “Stillness in the Move” by Solange, “Bad Romance” by Lady GaGa, “Won’t You be My Fucking Boyfriend” by The Bird and the Bee. Kazemi: So music deeply influences your designs? Scott: Music is a big influence on my designs. I think about my friends and what they would like to wear on stage or in their music videos while designing. I love to design while


listening to their music! Kazemi: So is there any certain genre that especially inspires you? Scott: I love all genres of music but pop is my favorite. I also like dance music and covers, especially when the song is sung by someone in a different way. Kazemi: Do you have a favourite person in the pop industry who has worn your designs? Did you see it as a honor? Scott: It’s always a huge compliment when Madonna wears my clothes or asks to work with me, but I have so many great musicians around that I’ve been blessed to work with. I’ve dressed Madonna, Britney, Beyoncé, Bjork, Rihanna, GaGa, Kayne, MIA, etc. Drever: You’ve worked a lot with GaGa this past year. We’ve heard there were scenes that were cut from the “Paparazzi” video. Is there anything you feel the viewers missed out on? Scott: Yes, I’ve worked quite a bit with GaGa this year. She’s wonderful because she’s always pushing herself to take her music to the next level. I don’t think you missed anything in the video since all the deleted parts have leaked anyway! Drever: You tend to always have a certain level of tongue-in-cheek attitude in your designs. Is that something you try to incorporate intentionally? Scott: It’s my personality; it’s who I am and how I think. It’s as simple as that. Drever: Are your obvious junk food influences a reflection of your own eating habits or a snide commentary on the fashion industries standards? Scott: I actually dont eat badly. I’m a vegetarian and have been most of my life! I do love pizza and popcorn and a milkshake every now and then. I don’t think that it was a commentary on fashion at all; it was more of just a play on words come alive.

I thought of a food fight... how funny is that? What if food actually started a fight?! That would be sooooo brilliant: hamburger against hotdog, cookie against pretzels, and popcorn all over the place! Drever: Is there such a thing as being too campy in your world? At what point does it verge too costume-like for your personal wardrobe? Scott: Well, there is always a point and one must have boundaries when designing. I constantly reevaluate these boundaries and stake out new ground along the way! Drever: You have the ability to seamlessly float back and forth between avant garde bondage pieces and over the top caricature creations. What is your main influence in going in one direction or the other? Scott: I honestly don’t think think about it. I design from a very pure mindset in my heart; I don’t overanalyze my designs... I just try to birth them into the world!

M


“I DON’T

MYDESIGNS

OVERANALYZE

...I JUST TRY TO BIRTH THEM INTO THE WORLD.”


TOD D. LY NN.

Interview by Marta Represa


a school of performing arts and eventually found my way working on production design. One thing lead to another and I ended up working in fashion. Represa: So what interests you is... Lynn: What interests me the most is taking ideas from my head and sculpting them into threedimension. A lot of what I do is based on the cut. I guess there will always be a part of me that will need to work with my hands, although I find it increasingly difficult to spend as much time as I would like to doing so. I try to cut as many of the patterns for the collection as possible. Represa: Surely one of the most prestigious fashion universities in the world, you attended Central Saint Martins. What did you learn about the fashion industry by attending CSM? Lynn: Without a doubt Central St. Martins is one of the most important fashion institutions in the world. I think it’s the students it attracts that helps make the school it is. Usually they go there for one reason: Louise Wilson (the course director.) Louise is able to advise and direct the students in a way that no one else can. Ultimately she allows you to determine what type of product that you should be designing. You have to do it better than everyone else. Represa: Did you ever collaborate with any designer classmates after graduation? Lynn: I have never collaborated with any designer classmates. Represa: Are you still in touch with any? Lynn: I am not in touch with any of them. Represa: And Louise? Lynn: I see Louise from time to time. She critiques each and every collection; I am always grateful. Represa: What kind of inspiration do you have

in mind when creating outfits for rockers like Mick Jagger or Courtney Love? Lynn: Each project is different, but ultimately the pieces have to fit my aesthetic. The artists approach me because they like the look of my work. Ultimately everything I design is something that I would wear. That’s the most important test. If I can’t see myself in the pieces, then I won’t put them in the collection. The inspiration for each collection comes from what I happen to be thinking about while I’m designing it. I start thinking about the next collection as I’m finishing its predecessor. The pieces that I work on with celebrities all stem from the collection. Represa: How did your work with Roland Mouret help you to start your own brand? Lynn: Every job that I do and every design enables me to learn something. It’s crucial to expand my knowledge of the industry that I work in every day. When I was working with Roland it was the same. I would spend every day expanding my skills. Specifically I would say that Roland showed me the speed that is required in this industry. Product development has to happen so quickly and decisions have to be made on the spot. Represa: Who are your favourite designers throughout history? Lynn: There are many designers that I have admired. One of my favourites would have to be Claude Montana. I always admired his clean modern lines and the fact that he


“It does tend to take on the look of a rock star but that’s not the intended goal. I just design what I like.” -TODD LYNN


LA. RO UX. Interview by Alex Kazemi and Lovisa Drever


“If you produce and write yourself, then there is no need to work with anyone else.” -ELLY JACKSON

Alex Kazemi: What kind of audience has your music attracted?  Elly Jackson: A younger crowd than we thought, I think largely due to the unexpected success of “In For The Kill” and “Bulletproof” which appealed to a more mainstream audience. Kazemi: You have had much mainstream success. Will your next album have a more mainstream sound? Jackson: Not intentionally, we will always just make the music we like making, not because it sells records. It’s just a nice bonus. Our music is definitely pop but we’re not going to try and make the next album even more pop than this one. That would be a very strange way to start making an album. Kazemi: Do you feel that the style you have brought to the mainstream market may influence upcoming bands? Jackson: Maybe! Or


ROBE RT. GELL ER. Interview by Willie Norris


Willie Norris: What was your childhood like? Robert Geller: I was born in Hamburg in 1976. My father was a photographer and my step-mother owned an amazing second hand store called Seconds; I was always surrounded by creative environments. My family was very supportive of artistic endeavors which helped to develop my interest in art and design. Norris: Did you always want to be a fashion designer or did it emerge as an interest later in life? Geller: I originally thought that I would follow in my father’s footsteps and become a photographer. Norris: When did this change? Geller: When I was studying at the Rhode Island School of Design I took a class in fashion design and that experience made me decide to concentrate on fashion instead. I am still very happy about that choice. Norris: How did you know that fashion was the right thing for you? Was there a specific moment you remember? Geller: One moment that I’ll never forget occurred after graduating from RISD. I was working for Marc Jacobs and had tears in my eyes while watching the run through of the Fall 2001 runway show at the Armory. It was all so massive and cool. Norris: What is your educational background? Geller: I went to an international high school in Germany and received a fashion degree from the Rhode Island School of Design. Norris: What were you doing before designing under your own name? Geller: I was interning at Marc Jacobs for a year and then became the partner and co-designer of Cloak. Norris: I’ll avoid asking you what you’re inspired by, but are there any ideas that you try to convey every season? Geller: I always try to convey

a sense of romance each season. Although that idea is somewhat broad, romance is always a part of my creative process and an important mood of the aesthetic that I like. I’m also inspired by history, not literally in the sense of historical costume, but rather the evocation of a mood from a faraway place and time. Norris: Any signature elements? Geller: I would say the signature element of the Robert Geller collection is a certain mood that is dreamy, romantic, and loosely based on historical references. Norris: So it’s more... Geller: It’s more characteristic than a particular design. Norris: Do you have a theme for each collection? Do you start with a design detail or idea and go from there? Or do you start with an image and go from there? Geller: Each season I have a unifying idea that is often the result of several feelings and inspirations. For example, the Spring 2010 collection focused on opti-


I always try to convey a sense of romance each season. Although that idea is somewhat broad, romance is always a part of my creative process and an important mood of the aesthetic that I like. -ROBERT GELLER


VEN A.CA VA

Interview by Jen Jaconelli


Vena Cava: Fashion’s Brightest Duo


Jen Jaconelli: How would you describe the essence of your label? Sophie Buhai: Clothes we make for ourselves, our moms, and our friends. It’s about a certain type of woman rather than an age. We reference moments from the past in a simplified, subdued way. We always look to art deco and Navajo motifs, with 1970’s and early 80’s references.  Jaconelli: Is there a story behind the name of your label, Vena Cava?  Lisa Mayock: The Vena Cava is the main vein that carries blood into the heart. We spent so many hours trying to figure out what to call our brand and found this phrase while pouring over a medical dictionary in Sophie’s family’s backyard in L.A. It looks great on paper, it feels good to say, and we like that most people don’t know what it means. Jaconelli: When you design, do you have a particular type of woman in mind?  Buhai: It would go something like Faye Dunaway, Isabelle Huppert, Angelica Houston, our Moms, Shelly Duvall, 90’s Michelle Pfeiffer, Cleopatra, and Joan Didion.   Jaconelli: You both studied at Parsons School of Design before creating Vena Cava. When studying together, was it your friendship or your similar design style/tastes that sparked off your collaboration?   Mayock: I would say that one fed the other. We have similar interests, come from the same city (Los Angeles) and like a lot of the same music, etc. which almost serves as a kind of reference point, or code. It makes it easy for us to understand where the other is coming from, in our friendship as well as in our creative relationship. Jaconelli: What makes your working relationship successful? Buhai: We are both slight OCD workaholics, although we’re working on that with self help books.  I’d say we work well together because we cover each others back, we each have different strengths, and we work together constantly toward achieving the same goals and vision for our company.  Jaconelli: Many graduates hope to be spotted by established designers - were you always in the mind of creating your own label rather than designing for someone else? Mayock: Not at all! I was putting my portfolio together to try to get a job with other designers. Both of us had a few part time jobs right after we graduated and we thought we’d make some stuff together just for fun. We were never expecting it to turn into a real business. Jaconelli: When you started Vena Cava, did you find it difficult to integrate into the fashion industry being young graduates? Buhai: No, it was surprising but the industry was very welcoming to us. People embraced us and liked our youthfulness.  We were amazed at how many editors came to our first show.  Jaconelli: I read that you gain inspiration from found objects, which is reminiscent of pioneering artistic movements such as Arte Povera. What is the most bizarre object that has given you a design idea? Mayock: There is a really cool weight inside toilet tanks that helps close the flusher lid thingie- it’s a big metal ball with a

chain attached to it. We ended up casting it in a really beautiful shiny brass and using it decoratively and as a closure. Jaconelli: On your website you host visuals of your inspirations for collections which currently contain Egyptian influences. How important are other cultures in your designs? Buhai: Very important. We reference a lot of Native American weaving, African textiles, and Mexican silver. Every season we seem to take a trip somewhere through the books we find at the library. Research is a huge part of our design process; it’s a sort of scavenger hunt at the library to find the next culture that will inspire the coming collection.  Jaconelli: Out of all the cities you’ve visited, which has your favorite style? Buhai: We were really blown away by India. We became obsessed with the uniforms of Grounds Keepers. Even the most subtle t-shirt had an amazing cut and cotton feel. On so many levels India was endlessly inspiring. We still reference Maharajah jewelry, colors, and textiles we found there. Jaconelli: What’s your favorite thing about living in New York?  Mayock: The convenience! Its really, really spoiled me. If you want duck with orange sauce and a basketball jersey at 3am in New York you can figure out how to get it. Jaconelli: The word ‘style’ holds much ambiguity. What is your definition of the term? Buhai: Style is like cheese; it gets better with age. Old ladies have the best style. I’m also really into DAD style; it has nothing to do with fashion but everything to do with personal comfort and routine. Think Larry David. Jaconelli: Do you think having style is something you’re born with or something you can be attained? Mayock: I don’t really know what style is; it’s a slippery thing that’s difficult to describe. I don’t think it’s something that can describe as a constant; people are in a constant state of flux, and I think of style the same way. I went through a period of wearing exclusively striped clothing and also a period of wearing fake blood on my clothes as an “accessory.” Is that style? No idea. I do think if you’re a creative person, you can use that to make some interesting decisions about what to wear. Jaconelli: Describe a typical day at Vena Cava. Buhai: Caffeine, Greek yogurt, emails, talk about found objects from the hardware store, more emails, sign some checks, look at the sweater from Korea, have a conference call with the L.A. factory, emails, make a collage out of aerial photography, Italian meat sandwich, more emails, fitting, hand draw on a pair of converse for collaboration, phone calls, done.  Jaconelli: Do you feel a constant pressure to look stylish due to your profession? Mayock: Yeah. It blows. Jaconelli: Let’s get personal. Your apartment is burning down and you can save one item of clothing. What is it? Mayock: There’s a parade called the DooDah Parade in Pasadena every year where everyone runs in costumes. My dad is a


SPRI NG. PREV IEW. Photography by Cameron-James Wilson Styling by Katie Burnett

Assisted by Tom Lockyer and Graham Woolie, Modeled by Kathleen Burbridge @ Premier, Makeup and hair by Maddie Austin for Chanel, Manicure by Ceri Lee


Dress: Jasper Garvida Shoes: Topshop Ring: Kabiri


Dress: Jasper Garvida


Dress: Jasper Garvida



Prim Magazine Winter 2010 Preview