PRESTIGE English Edition Volume 1 Extract

VOLUME 1 l WINTER 2016

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CONTENTS 26

TRAVEL

76 OMAN Fairytales Come True

81 JANE GODALL The Mother of Chimpanzees

82 IRELAND Lighthouses 84 INFINITY POOLS SpectaPOOLar

87 DID YOU KNOW…?

Oil, Indonesia and Terracotta Army

88 INSIDER TIPS Vienna

90 MALDIVES A Journey to Paradise

98 A PEEP BEHIND THE SCENES From Baghdad to North Korea

COVER STORY

81

26 THE BIG APPLE New York

48 PRESTIGE PRESENTS …

In the Time Capsule

CULTURE & ART

56 BRAD PITT A Flair for Art

62 AUTUMN DIARY From Klimt to Sheep Award Ceremony

64 FRANCK BOUROULLEC The High-Speed Painter

68 ITALIAN VIOLIN MAKING The Lollobrigida among the Violins

72 ELITE UNIVERSITIES The Training Centres of the World

75 CHRISTOPHER LEE The Most Famous Vampire of the World

90 16 | PRESTIGE

CONTENTS 118

WATCHES & JEWELLERY 100 FACES OF TIME Dials 115 DID YOU KNOW…?

Rolex, Giant Crystals & Golden Times 117 CAROLINA BUCCI

Finely Woven Gold Jewellery 118 SHADES OF GREEN

The Emerald 122 ANNETTE & HERBERT KOPP

Handmade jewellery collection

124 DRIVE STYLE

140

124 COMMITTED TO ELEGANCE

Concorso d’Eleganza 129 RALLYE Paris–Dakar 130 TULIPWOOD

The wooden Torpedo 133 MOTORISED BOOKS

Myths, Hippies & Members only 134 THE NEXT WAVE OF SUVS

Greetings from the Four-Wheel Drive Faction 140 A STAR ON AN EXTENDED TOUR

77 Years of Mercedes Four-Wheel Drive 142 THE GENTLE CONQUEROR

Maserati: Gentleman with 530 HP

115 18 | PRESTIGE

CONTENTS FASHION

172

BEAUTY

146 MOVIES CREATE FASHION

Wardrobes of the stars

172 ORGANIC DE LUXE

The Eco-Luxury Class

152 SHARON STONE

10 Questions for …

178 SIX SENSES

From Smokey Eye to a Sea of Roses

154 PRESTIGE PRESENTS

Fashion Collages by Nora Ermatinger

182 ZARKO AHLMANN PAVLOV

Fragrant Charm

164 FASHION CLASSICS

The Poncho

186 HELENA RUBINSTEIN

The Queen of Cosmetics

166 GOLF & FASHION

Fairway Fashion

202

187 DID YOU KNOW…?

Nivea, Mascara and Perfume

170 NAOMI CAMPBELL

Beauty and the Beast

LIVING 188 BIG

Yes is more!

194 HOTEL ARCHITECTURE

Visiting Architectural Marvels 198 NEWS OF THE WORLD OF DESIGN I

Sofa & Corkscrew 200 DESIGN CLASSICS

Jacobsen’s Egg 202 HUBERT LE GALL

Furniture from Wonderland 207 NEWS OF THE WORLD OF DESIGN II

Lamp & Bathtub 208 ISAMU NOGUCHI

Western Art meets Japanese Tradition

146 20 | PRESTIGE

RADO.COM

RADO TRUE DIAMONDS HIGH-TECH CERAMIC • LUXURY AND COMFORT • SERIOUSLY IRRESISTIBLE

TIME IS THE ESSENCE WE ARE MADE OF

CONTENTS

210 CULINARIUM 210 THE MAGICIAN OF FLAVOURS

Nenad Mlinarevic 215 PURE PLEASURE Saffron 216 VIRTUOSOS BEHIND THE BAR

Jerry Thomas & Ada Coleman 219 NEWS FOR GOURMETS

Smokables & Espresso Pleasure

215

220 PROFESSIONAL BARTENDERS

RECOMMEND …

Favourite drinks for 2015 223 DID YOU KNOW…?

Taste of Christmas & Roots 224 BEER TOURS

Man’s best friend

COLUMNS NEWS

71 WILHELM J. GRUSDAT – We Do it All …

97 JASMIN TAYLOR – A Trip to the Coloured Earth of Mauritius

116 ELEGANT JEWELLERY 123 THE JEWELLERY OF YOUR DREAMS 139 I SEE BLUE 151 BLACK & WHITE 153 CASUAL ELEGANCE 171 CANDY COLOURS 180 PRETTY FOR AUTUMN 185 AUTUMN’S HERE 10 LEGAL NOTICE 226 PREVIEW GRAFF

22 | PRESTIGE

M ESUR E ET D ÉMESUR E *

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DEAR

READERS W

elcome to our first Prestige International e-mag edition in english.

Let us take you on a journey to the city that never sleeps, the Big Apple. Soaring skyscrapers, the Statue of Liberty, the Empire State Building, Fifth Avenue, Central Park – everyone knows the sights of New York. But there are a few that are less well known but equally worth seeing. Join us for a peek behind the scenes on Broadway and visit Harlem’s Apollo Theater. Explore Brooklyn and discover all the best places to stay. New York sets the trends, and some of them have found their way over here. The «Go Veggie» initiative has come and gone in the USA, but now celebrities are avoiding all animal products. Find out about the latest «green» trends in the luxury sector – including vegan fashion and organic beauty.

We’ll also reveal the latest must-have gadgets and which fragrance you should be wearing this autumn.

So it’s time to pour yourself a nice glass of red and put your feet up in front of the fire with the latest edition of Prestige.

Francesco J. Ciringione Publisher

Yvonne Beck Chief Editor

& ART

CULTURE

NEW YORK

It is the capital city of the American Dream.

The city that never sleeps. The city of superlatives. There is no doubt that New York is one of the world’s most exciting cities. New York is not America, but this is where the country’s heart beats the loudest.

Yvonne Beck

CULTURE & ART

«New York is an ugly city. Its climate is a scandal, its politics are used to frighten children, its traffic is madness, its competition is murderous. But there is one thing about it – once you have lived in New York and it has become your home, no place else is good enough.»

– John Steinbeck, 1953 –

M

Money changers on Ellis Island | 1910.

elting Pot

The metropolitan area of New York is home to 21 million people.

171 nationalities live cheek-by-jowl, and almost 100 languages are spoken. 40 percent of the population speak Spanish at home and 25 % do not speak English. Nearly a third of taxi drivers speak barely a word of English. New Yorkers are protected by ­ 50,000 police officers, treated by 12,000 psychiatrists, entertained by 600 productions on and off Broadway and have a choice of 18,000 food establishments to eat in. Their spiritual needs are looked after by 6000 churches, temples and mosques. 122,000 licensed taxis criss-cross the city. Including its 5 boroughs, it covers a total surface area of 779 square kilometres ­(compared to Berlin at 883 sq km and London at 1,580 sq km).

Originally settled by the Dutch, British and Huguenots, New York was very much a city of immigrants. Its harbour meant that this was even more the case during the 19th century. Between 1815 and 1915, 33 million immigrants entered the United States, three quarters of them through the port of New York. Thousands of Irish fled the great famine of 1845 to 1847 to seek a new life in the New World. They were joined by German Catholics, Italians, Scandinavians, Jews and people from every corner of the world.

Almost half of all immigrants worked in factories making everything from machinery to shoes and cigars. Germans settled in «Little Germany» to the

28 | PRESTIGE

CULTURE & ART

Ellis Island: gateway to the New World.

Jewish market on the East Side.

This area was settled by many poor Eastern Europeans.

south, on the East River. This was the site of the Singer sewing machine factory, so beer taverns and German businesses quickly sprang up. In the 2000 census, 43 million Americans – one in six of the population – said they had German ancestors.

Admitting immigrants In 1892 an immigration centre was established on Ellis Island to regulate immigration to America. Some 12 million immigrants passed through the island between 1892 and 1954.

At this time it was mainly people from Eastern and Southern Europe who were fleeing unrest and political persecution. The majority were highly educated Russian, Polish and Austrian Jews. They settled on the Lower East Side. At the same time Italians were flocking to New York looking for unskilled work in the clothing industry or as construction workers on the subway. These new immigrants were said to be unwilling to assimilate and incapable of ­understanding life in America. Writing and reading tests were introduced.

Restrictions on immigration became ever tighter, and gradually the authorities began to refuse entry to the sick, polygamists, prostitutes, the poor, anarchists, C ­ hinese (1882), Japanese (1907) and illiterates (1917). In spite of this, 1,285,349 immigrants were cleared through customs in the year 1907 alone.

Almost every second American (40 %) has ancestors who entered the country via Ellis Island.

A Hearty Welcome & Thank You …

In 1524 the Italian Giovanni da Verranzano was the first European to sail around Manhattan. 85 years later the Briton Henry Hudson also set foot on the densely wooded island.

The Dutch made the first attempts to settle the southernmost point and called their trading post Nieuw Amsterdam. The Mana-Hattans, native Red Indians of the Delaware tribe, gave the white man a friendly welcome.

Just 30 years later, they had been wiped out.

The luxurious way of life | 29

CULTURE & ART

«It isn’t like the rest of the country – it is like a nation itself – more tolerant than the rest in a curious way…»

– John Steinbeck –

Mott Street: a symbol of New York’s melting pot This street was mainly settled by Asian immigrants.

The immigrants named Ellis Island the Island of Tears because many a fate was decided upon after a 2-minute interview and a medical examination.

First of all, immigrants had to climb 50 steep stairs to the registration room, closely observed by doctors. Anyone who found this difficult could have a heart problem, so they were subjected to a more intensive examination. The doctors checked for infectious diseases, inspected hands, face and hair and if anyone looked suspicious they were given a chalk mark on their right shoulder ( «S» for senility, «Ct» for the eye disease trachoma and «X» for a mental defect). The others passed through a door with the inscription «Push to New York» and were admitted.

The Boroughs and their Nationalities Between 1900 and 1930 some 300,000 people left the Caribbean islands to come to New York. The «Harlem Renaissance» of the 1920s attracted many blacks to move to the city from the South.

But in contrast to other ethnic groups, they were denied access to social betterment. As soon as black citizens moved into a neighbourhood, the white population left and the prices of real estate went through the floor. It was only the music and literature scene that afforded the black population a measure of fame at this time. Districts such as

30 | PRESTIGE

Harlem continue to be shaped by that era. After the Second World War, large numbers of Puerto Ricans, Cubans and Dominicans arrived in the USA. Israeli and Arab immigrants began arriving in the 1960s. They abandoned their homelands because of economic difficulties and political unrest in the Middle East. Since 1965 the largest number of newcomers has come from China, and since the fall of the Soviet Union many Black Sea Russians, mostly Orthodox Jews, have also moved to New York. They predominantly live in Brooklyn or on Coney Island.They predominantly live in Brooklyn or on Coney Island. Asians from Vietnam, Korea, India and Taiwan mainly opt for the area north of Queens.

So, New York may be a melting pot, but people still like to live among their own, and many still follow the customs and traditions of their home countries.

How the population is made up 27 percent of the population originate from Spanish or Portuguese-speaking countries, and around half of these come from Puerto Rico. Blacks (Afro-Americans) make up 25 % of the population and whites (Eurasians) around 35 %. 10 percent have other ethnic origins – chiefly Asians and Arabs.

CULTURE & ART

2

1 3

1 | Pizza and spaghetti in Little Italy.

2 | LGBT community 3 | NYC: a melting pot.

4 | Chinatown 5 | Harlem street scene 6 | On the subway, heading for Queens.

7 | New York is home to the largest Jewish population outside of Israel.

5

4 6

7

CULTURE & ART

THE

BROADWAY

OF THE

It is the most famous street in the world.

This is where stars were born and its lights shine as if there is no tomorrow.

«The musical is the American theatre’s main claim to fame.»

– Jerry Herman –

32 | PRESTIGE

CULTURE & ART

F

or over 130 years Broadway has been the heart and soul of American showbusiness.

Back then no one would have guessed that this street would become the world’s longest street, 25 kilometres long. Broadway was originally an Indian trail that was also an early trading route. It became an important link between the harbour and the hinterland.

Shows, Shows, Shows Today when we talk of Broadway we generally mean the relatively small theatre district, which makes up just one thirtieth of the street’s length.

Nowadays the Broadway theatres are confined to an 800-metre stretch and its side streets to east and west. The term Broadway Theatre has remained, even though there are now only five playhouses on Broadway itself. Three of these can barely be recognized as theatres because they are located in office towers. A further 34 theatres are located on the side streets of Time Square, be-

tween 42nd and 47th Street. Apart from London’s West End, this area has the highest density of theatres in the world.

The Capital of Musicals Musicals dominate Broadway – quite understandably, as this is where they were born. This glamorous form of musical theatre developed out of vaudeville, m ­ elodrama, minstrel shows, operettas, ragtime and jazz. «The Black Crook» (1866) is considered to be the first real musical. But it was not until the Thirties that the genre really took off. Musicals were also hugely popular after the Second World War. Many of the songs that are still popular today come from hit musicals from the Forties and Fifties: «Annie Get Your Gun» (1946), «Kiss Me Kate» (1948) and «My Fair Lady» (1956) to name but a few. In 1957 «West Side Story«, Leonard Bernstein’s Puerto Rican take on «Romeo and Juliet», opened in New York. This was followed by global hits such as «Cats», «Phantom of the Opera», «Miss Saigon», «The Lion King» and «42nd Street». Many of these musicals have also been staged in Stuttgart, Hamburg and Vienna. One musical that has not yet reached us in Europe is «The Jersey Boys», a show which has close ties to New York.

PRESTIGE met up with Richard H. Blake who plays the role of Tommy de Vito. We asked him about the attraction of Broadway and the «Jersey Boys».

The Broadway Collection The Broadway Collection brings together all the wonderful Broadway musicals and events in New York City. These shows are selected for their unrivalled popularity with international audiences. Its website provides information on the best Broadway shows on offer in New York so that visitors can make their plans before they arrive. Tickets should be booked in advance from one of the large tour operators. It is almost impossible to pick up a ticket at a bargain price at one of the TKTS kiosks when you arrive.

So it’s worth doing your homework and booking now! www.broadwaycollection.com

The luxurious way of life | 33

PRESTIGE: Mr Blake, how long have you been acting on Broadway?

Richard H. Blake: This is my 15th Broadway show. Before that I was in «Wicked» and «Rent».

I’ve acted in many excellent shows and now I’m delighted to be part of the «Jersey Boys».

Broadway is a really tough business but the applause and the reaction of the audience is like a drug to me.

And how long have you been playing Tommy DeVito?

I joined the show a year and nine months ago. With eight shows a week this makes about 710 performances. But I’m still a newbie – some of the cast have already been in it for seven or eight years.

Doesn’t it start to get boring, and as a musical performer is it possible to give your very best every evening?

You have to give your best otherwise you’re in the wrong job. The audience expects this from you. Every Broadway production in New York is a huge financial investment. For example, the musical «Cats» swallowed up 1.2 million ­dollars in production costs in London but in New York it cost 5.3 million. Producing a musical in New York is an enormous risk compared to somewhere like London’s West End. Between 750‚000 and 1 million Dollars are ­required for a play of not more than seven actors in a single set cast in New York. Between 5 and 7 million are needed for an elaborate musical. Whoever takes the stage here,

34 | PRESTIGE

n­ o matter how long this play has already been staged, has to do their best.

But I love coming to work. I have a great job. And it’s twice as much fun in a show like this one.

Did you know the story of the «Jersey Boys» before you took this part?

No. I knew most of the songs, but I didn’t know anything about the group. Their story is really fascinating. They weren’t just musicians who came together to form a band but small town gangsters who had even done time in prison.

They became pop idols because they simply had the right sound. It is interesting how many people know their songs without connecting them to the «Jersey Boys». Many of the songs have been remixed … Lauren Hill’s «Can’t take my Eyes Off You», «Begging» was sampled and just about every musician has covered «Oh what a Night».

Are you originally from New York or did you come to try your luck here?

I have lived in New York since the age of eight. I have lived in New Jersey for the last 15 years – so I’m almost a true Jersey Boy, not just on stage.

What does Broadway mean to you?

The past, the present and the future.

And what does New York mean to you in three words?

Exciting, wild and my home.

CULTURE & ART

Harlem: a centre for Afro-American culture.

Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture Anyone who is interested in Afro-American culture should visit the Schomburg Center. The Center’s key exhibits come from the private collection of Arthur Schomburg (1874–1938).

As a protest against the belief that blacks had no history, this bank clerk from Puerto Rico amassed a vast collection, including 500 books, 300 manuscripts and 200 etchings and portraits. The building has an octagon at one end and features a tower at the corner of 135th Street. It was designed by Bond Ryder Associates.

36 | PRESTIGE

CULTURE & ART

HARLEM

TO

New York’s fast subway trains – once immortalized by Duke Ellington’s «Take the A-Train» whisk their passengers from Times Square to Harlem in less than 10 minutes.

This neighbourhood is mainly home to African-Americans, so it has an interesting culture.

Streetlife

T

he Harlem Renaissance

For many years, Harlem was known as «The Black Capital of America». In 1910 Harlem’s population was almost exclusively black. A construction boom began after the turn of the century when a subway line was built connecting Harlem to South Manhattan. But noone wanted to rent the apartments that were built.

So Philip A. Payton Junior, a black real estate agent, convinced the worried owners to let their empty apartments to the fast-growing black population. Writers, artists and musicians all moved into the neighbourhood, which had its heyday in the 1920s. The renaissance of black consciousness was celebrated in legendary nightspots such as the «Cotton Club» and «Apollo Theatre» – though racial segregation meant that they performed exclusively for white audiences. After the Wall Street crash in 1929 the neighbourhood sank into abject poverty. Well into the 1980s, Harlem was synonymous with drugs, poverty and violence. At night, many parts of Harlem were no-go areas, but in the 21st century it has experienced a second renaissance. Its cultural life has been reawakened and crime rates are falling steadily. More and more tourists are coming to explore the neighbourhood and now companies such as Harlem Heritage Tours and Harlem Spirituals are offering tours and walks around the district.

The luxurious way of life | 37

CULTURE & ART

«The role of an artist in New York is to make a neighbourhood so attractive that artists can’t live there any more.»

—Ed Koch, former city mayor of New York—

Black Power in Harlem. The new black consciousness.

Apollo Theater: a springboard for world stars.

A Talent Factory We cannot fail to mention the legendary «Apollo Theatre». Until 1934 blacks were prohibited from entering the theatre, which opened in 1913. Despite this, the next 40 years belonged to Bessie Smith, Billie Holiday, Duke Ellington, Count Basie, Ella Fitzgerald and Aretha Franklin. In the Forties its stage was one of the homes of Bebop and New York-style jazz was hugely popular here. In the early Seventies it was turned into a cinema and then closed down in 1976. It re-opened after undergoing a total renovation in the 1980s. Its «amateur nights» are particularly popular, and budding talents have a good chance of being spotted, as this is how Ella Fitzgerald, Sarah Vaughan and Lauren Hill were discovered. And even on evenings when no new global stars are discovered, the atmosphere is still quite unique. The winner is ­ chosen by the audience and as soon as an adult takes to the stage, anything goes: applause,

38 | PRESTIGE

heckling, whistling and foot stamping. When the audience doesn’t like an artist they simply boo them off the stage. The audience is king. Despite this, every year 1,500 hopefuls apply to perform at Amateur Night, and only a quarter of them manage to get on the stage. One of them who went all the way was Michael Jackson. In the late 1960s he and his family, «The Jackson Five», entered an Amateur Night and won. So it’s not surprising that thousands of his fans gathered at the theatre to mourn his death.

Stirring Church Music Most gospel services are held in Harlem, the South Bronx and the black areas of Brooklyn. Of the most well known are the choirs of the Abyssinian Baptist Church in Harlem. It is the most famous of the more or less 400 churches in Harlem. The Neo-Gothic church was built in 1924 and provided the backdrop for father and son Adam Clyton Powell – the son was also a Congressman in 1944 – to deliver their fiery sermons. A gospel service is held here every Sunday at 11 o’clock. But despite the gospel choir’s lively and stirring music, don’t forget that this is a church service, not a tourist attraction.

CUTS The Empire State Building, the Statue of Liberty and Times Square were the stars of yesterday. Today visitors to New York make a beeline for the High Line, the new Whitney Museum and the viewing platform at One World Trade Centre.

1 1 A NEW TREASURE TROVE The Whitney Museum of American Art in Manhattan is home to a major collection of American 20th and 21st century art. Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney founded the museum in 1931 when she donated 700 artworks from her private collection.

The museum’s mission is to «collect, explore, explain and question» American art with an emphasis on living, contemporary working artists. On 1 May 2015 the museum relocated to Renzo Piano’s new building in order to provide more space for the collection. The permanent collection can be admired in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District. It comprises more than 18,000 works by over 2,800 artists, including Cindy Sherman, Andy Warhol and Louise Bourgeois. www.whitney.org

2 A PARK ON RAILS Once it was a disused elevated railway track, today it’s a green oasis. Goods trains used to transport meat from A to B on the High Line. From 1934 to 1980 this is how goods were delivered to warehouses on Manhattan’s West Side. But it was abandoned after goods moved onto the roads. Today it is adorned with trees, lawns and flowers, providing the perfect retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. New York’s green promenade is most definitely worth a visit. High Line Park can be reached by a stairway between 10th and 11th Avenue from Gansevoort Street to 30th Street on Manhattan’s West Side. www.thehighline.org

3 DO YOU HAVE A HEAD FOR HEIGHTS? Then head to New York’s highest tourist attraction! Now the city can be admired from 100 floors up. 14 years after the attacks of 11 September the viewing platform in the new World Trade Centre was opened to the public. It’s worth waiting in line just for the ride up in the elevator. It is a form of time travel, a journey through 500 years of Manhattan’s history, all in just 47 seconds. And when they get to the top, visitors can look forward to a truly unique view. The terrorist attacks of 11 September have been deliberately ignored. For this, there is the 9 / 11 museum, where thousands of objects from the World Trade Centre are on display, including the possessions of victims, eyewitnesses and helpers: shoes, hats, uniforms.

At One World Trade Centre, it’s all about experiencing breathtaking views of the city. www.onewtc.com

2

3

CULTURE & ART

With its 183 square kilometres and 2.5 million inhabitants, Brooklyn is the most densely populated district of New York. Here Chinese, Arabs, Africans, Mexicans, West Indians and Russians live on neighbouring streets.

THE OTHER

NEW YORK

CULTURE & ART

«In my childhood no one committed suicide – people were far too unhappy for that.»

Street art on every corner.

B

Flea market in Dumbo.

efore the New York boroughs were consolidated in 1898, Brooklyn was the fourth largest city in the USA. It was named after the Dutch town of Breuckelen. Brooklyn is one of the city’s liveliest neighbourhoods. This is down to its multicultural vibe, Coney Island amusement park and trendy Williamsburg with its little shops and factories.

Brooklyn Bridge Just getting to Brooklyn is spectacular, as it involves crossing the legendary Brooklyn Bridge. As it crosses over the East River, the high walkway offers amazing views of Manhattan’s impressive skyline.

The bridge itself is also a marvel of engineering.

When it was completed in 1883, it was the world’s longest suspension bridge.

It was constructed by the German engineer Johann August Roebling, who founded America’s first steel cable factory in 1841. His plan was to build the longest and highest suspension bridge in the world. But it would take another 16 years before his plans were approved. He was killed in an accident during con-

– Woody Allen –

struction, so he never got to see the finished bridge.

His son Washington took over managing the project and decided to use the caisson technique. This involved anchoring large cases underwater to act as the bridge’s foundations. Air pressure prevents water from seeping into the caissons. The working conditions were brutal and many workers became sick with a strange disease. Today this is known as caisson disease or the bends, which occurs when divers leave high-pressure environments too quickly.

Roebling also contracted this ailment. He suffered severe pains and was disabled for the rest of his life.

But he did not want to stop construction so he ­monitored progress from his wheelchair. His wife, Mrs Emily Roebling, took over the supervision of the gigantic building site. She did the negotiations, enforced the quality standards of the Roebling company and dealt with a host of problems. Even today this would be a formidable achievement , but in the late 19th century it was quite unheard of for a woman. On 24 May 1883 the gigantic bridge was inaugurated with a huge celebration. Today more than 120,000 vehicles, 5,000 pedestrians and 3,100 cyclists cross the bridge every day.

Art in Focus Brooklyn is also always worth a visit for art lovers.

Over recent years a great many artists have settled in the neighbourhood. Old warehouses and workshops have been transformed into lively artist’s ­studios and renowned galleries. The district of ­Williamsburg is easily accessible by subway from Manhattan. Visitors can spend the whole day browsing round the galleries. And there are plenty of little cafés and restaurants when it’s time to take a break. In the evenings the clubs and restaurants offer a huge range of live music. Dumbo is also worth a visit. Brooklyn is home to the BAC gallery, the A.I.R. gallery and the Dumbo Arts Center, as well as one of New York’s most productive theatres, St Ann’s Warehouse. Dumbo actually stands for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass and is situated between Brooklyn Bridge and Man­ hattan Bridge.

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CULTURE & ART

«New York is the only real city-city.» – Truman Capote –

NYC’s most creative neighbourhood. No other district is home to so many young start-ups.

Hipsters & Artists.

Brooklyn has always cast a spell on artists and writers. A huge number of famous people have been born in Brooklyn or lived there for a while.

They include Henry and Arthur Miller, Truman Capote, Woody Allen, Norman Mailer, George ­ Gershwin, Barbra Streisand and the gangster ­ Al Capone. Director Spike Lee uses Brooklyn as the local headquarters of his film production company. America’s best-known married writers, Paul Auster and his wife Siri Hustvedt, draw inspiration from Brooklyn for their bestsellers. Brooklyn is quite simply different. Vegetables are grown on factory roofs, the city’s coolest parties are held here and there are thousands of little start-ups and individual stores.

It is far removed from 1938, when James Agee described it in his travel journal as a nefarious ­immigrant neighbourhood. Today Brooklyn is ­simply hip and cool. Here you can find home-brewed beer from micro-breweries, hand-made chocolate, home-­ made cheese and miniature g ­ardens in glass jars. Brooklyn is not only the home of the

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Coney Island The five boroughs of New York including Manhattan could not be more diverse. In one, skyscrapers climb up to the heavens, in another you can relax and have fun on the rollercoasters and beaches.

Coney Island is situated at the far south of Brooklyn on the Atlantic and is New York’s only ocean beach. Before the Second World War the rich and beautiful flocked to its casinos and elegant restaurants. It had every kind of attraction and the most luxurious bathing areas. But this luxury is now long gone. Those who can afford it have a house in the Hamptons. Today Coney Island is a place for cheaper pleasures.

hipster, but also of digital doorkeys, home pickled gherkins, Schnapps and an attitude to life that ­encourages more and more people to go it alone and start their own business. Brooklyn is the neighbourhood where the movers and shakers and the new Bohemians meet.

Good Morning !

london - new york - paris - Milan - berlin - Moscow - beijinG - HonG konG

www.vispring.eu

TRAVEL

HOLIDAY LIKE IN

FAIRYTALES COME TRUE

The Sultanate of Oman surprises you with its golden dunes, magical beaches and unique culture.

The logo of the best kept secret in the Indian Ocean is «Beauty has an address».

Text: Sara Berg

The Luxury Way of Life | 77

T

he light from the setting sun paints the sheer never ending dunes a deep red. The biggest sandy surface cloaks itself in silence. The Omani smiles. He knows the Rub al-Khali like the back of his hand.

The desert is alien to the visitor. It forces him to step outside the world of hustle and bustle and to go inward. The feeling is unique, overwhelming.

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TRAVEL

The Best of Both Worlds With its hustle and bustle, the capital reflects the past and the present of the country. Almost half of the Omani population lives here. The Omanis are proud of what they have built in the past 40 years under the reign of Sultan Qaboos: today they live in a modern state in harmony with their old traditions.

So the capital Muscat offers the visitor best of both the worlds. A stroll along the seaside promenade promises a cultivated Mediterranean flair, exciting museum exhibitions and architectural masterworks from the past invite you to stay and linger.

The Desert Lives The Rub al-Khali means «the empty quarter» in ­Arabic. An apt name, but the desert encompasses a large part of the Arabian peninsula. It is one of the few areas in the world that has not yet been fully explored. And that is what it makes it more appealing. The intoxicating view of the almost ­endless sand dunes, shimmering like gold in the searing light, makes the visitor pause for a moment.

Stress and the hectic pace are forgotten, problems suddenly appear utterly trivial. As a visitor, you experience the friendliness, openness and the inner calm of the people of Oman when they ­ ­welcome you. One is truly a guest here. Relaxing over a cup of tea, you get to know the unique culture of Oman.

But even those who wish for more action during their holiday get their money’s worth in Oman: close to Muscat, the capital city, in the «Bawshar Sands», the sonorous sounds of the four-wheel buggies cut through the gentle silence of the desert.

SUVs and quads make their way through the golden dunes and drive very fast through the fine sand. In the evening light, you can marvel at the white buildings of Muscat, which reflect the wonder­ ful green of the surrounding hills and cloak the city in a mysterious glow.

One of these buildings is the large Sultan Qaboos Mosque. Located directly on the main street, it exercises almost a magnetic pull on the visitor and brings him in contact with the spirit of Islam as a religion, science and culture. The huge prayer house, which took 6 years to build, has an area of 416‚000 square metres for 20‚000 worshippers to pray. The central dome of the main prayer hall rises 50 metres above the ground and has a stunning Swarovski crystal chandelier. It took 600 weavers 27 months to weave the Persian carpet that covers the floors. It has 1.7 million knots and weighs a whopping 21 tonnes.

Non-Muslims are allowed to visit the impressive building: it is open Sunday to Thursday until 11 am. Please wear appropriate clothing. It is certainly ­well-worth a visit – so are the royal palace of Al Alam and the forts of Al Jalali and Al Mirani, which sit high atop rocks outside the city.

Hustle Bustle in Market Traditions and customs run like a common thread through all of Oman’s landmarks. One however feels its traces very strongly in the oasis city of Nizwa, which was the capital and religious centre of the country in the 12th century.

The magical city nestles in the middle of a breathtaking mountain landscape and is a cultural highlight of every visit. It is lively and colourful here – especially when the merchants tout their wares at the extraordinary souk. In addition to jewellery, traditional clothes, antiques and hand-woven Bedouin carpets, a very special souvenir can be bought here as a present for loved ones at home: the «khanjar», a curved dagger made of silver and ivory, which is still being made in traditional craft enterprises just as it was 200 years ago.

It is not only a fashionable accessory but is an integral part of the traditional costume in the Sultanate.

High above the city sits the largest fort on the entire Arabian peninsula. The fort is the architectural testimony to the economic and military success of the early Yaruba dynasty in the mid-17th century. Its watchtower has a diameter of 45 metres and towers above other fortifications by 34 metres. The steps concealed in the inner courtyard lead the visitor to a balustrade from where he can view the entire city. Nicely renovated quarters dot the shabbier streets, a symbol for the blending of the modern with the traditional. The view of the large Friday mosque with its golden dome makes up wonderfully for the now aching feet.

The luxurious way of life | 79

races, which are partly organised by the royal house, it’s not just the riders but also the powerful animals who compete.

Beach & Ocean Time to relax on the beach. With its long, fine sandy beaches, tropical bays and towering cliffs rising from the ocean, Oman is an ideal place for those who enjoy being near water. Dhofar Goveronate is characterised by attractive beaches, noted for the purity of sand and magnificent cliffs. Hundreds of flamingos romp around here, which give the lagoons their gaudy pink look.

Even many dolphins and whales are drawn to this coastal region. Porpoises, grey dolphins and beaked whales jump happily through the waves, while the visitor watches them spellbound, fascinated by the unbelievable beauty of the nature.

The visitor also gets to experience the immense marine biodiversity: sea horses glide like magical beings through the clear water, gaily coloured corals nestle on the ocean floor, hundreds of colourful fishes float through the unspoiled depths of water. Those who come at the right time of the year can also marvel at the sea turtles making their way to the spawning ground. ­Thousands of marine reptiles migrate annually from the shores of the Gulf of Arabia, the Red Sea and Somalia to lay their eggs on the beaches of Oman.

A very special attraction is night turtle viewing in the nature reserve «Ras Al Jinz», which is around 30 kilometres east of the city Sur. The reserve offers the animals a quiet place to lay their eggs, securing their continued existence.

Camel racing is also popular and follows more or less the same rules. Camels, the «ships of the desert» have played a vital role in the region over thousands of years. They were used as a means of travel, for food and shelter, but have also being used for entertaining from time immemorial. Today camel racing has evolved into a professional sport.

The Omanis use the latest technology and spare no expense to see their animal winning the title race.

Golf is relatively a new sport in Oman. Muscat now has three 18 hole golf courses: Almouj Golf, the Ghala Valley Golf Course and the Muscat Hills Golf & Country Club. As the sport is becoming ­increasingly popular among Omanis and tourists, a few more Golf courses are expected to be launched in the future.

Non-Stop Flight to your Dream Holiday Only six and a half hours of flight separate the grey everyday from the dream holiday like in 1001 Nights: Oman Air flies four times a week from Switzerland to the Sultanate of Oman.

Ships of the Desert, Thorough-Bred Riders and the Perfect Shot The passion for animals however does not just extend to the wildlife species, which enjoy special protection in Oman. In Islam, horses enjoy a special status; they symbolise integrity and pride. The Sultanate has many excellent horse studs and is famous for raising, breeding and devoted care. In the annual horse

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www.omanair.com www.omantourism.com www.omantourism.gov.om

THE MOTHER OF CHIMPANZEES JANE GOODALL In 1960, Jane Goodall, the primatologist, began to study the behaviour of chimpanzees in Tanzania. Jane Goodall is a peace loving, modest, energetic and, also, a determined woman, who decided to initiate an ethical revolution in some of the academic disciplines. In addition to Diane Fossey (gorillas), Biruté Galdikas (orangutans), she is one of the third women who began longterm studies on great apes at the suggestion of the paleontologist Louis Leakkey. It was hoped that these study could shed light on the behaviour of prehistoric humans. Now for the last 50 years, Jane Goodall has not only provided accurate scientific findings, but has also been a perfect example of how one should treat humans, animals and nature – our environment – with respect and love. Many findings on chimpanzees are attributed to Jane Goodall’s studies. She discovered that chimpanzees were capable of using tools.

The chimpanzees break branches and use them to fish termites from their mounds. They also use stones as hammer and anvil to break open nut shells.

In addition, Goodall also found out that chimpanzees eat meat and even hunt collectively other monkey species and attack in groups other groups of chimpanzees. Goodall was one of the first researchers who gave the animals she observed names instead of numbers. This practice did not meet with the approval of the scientific community, as it was said that the objectivity would be lost – and also because previously Jane Goodall had worked «only» as a secretary and a waitress and lacked university education. Since then, many scientists have followed Goodall’s example. Today Goodall supports alternatives to animal testing and is vehemently against any cruelty towards animals.

5 QUOTES

«We need money to live but we should not live for money.»

«The least I can do is speak out for those who cannot speak for themselves.»

«If everybody would have the same standard of living like an average European or American, we would need six planets.»

«If we take the future seriously, then we must stop leaving it to others, instead we must ourselves become active.»

«You can change something – everyday and at any time!»

The luxurious way of life | 81

FACES

JEWELLERY

WATCHES

OF

TIME

There’s no denying it. Men, at least those who are not vain about the size of everything, will look at the face and hands of their wristwatch more often over the course of a day than in the mirror.

Gisbert L. Brunner

M

any women would have it no other way. No wonder then, that these faces of time naturally attract special importance.

It’s also natural, however, that watchmakers traditionally place the hands of the watch at nine minutes past ten when photographing them.

Not only does it frame the logo, it also creates a friendly smiley face. That is also down to what designers believe makes up 80 percent of a watch’s overall impression, over centuries of constant change. Three-dimensionality made watch faces more complex. Colour brings variety. A retro look reminds us of the good old days. And skeletonization ensures interesting insights into the mechanics that make the whole thing tick.

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BLANCPAIN In 1801, Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted the patent for his tourbillon for compensating the negative influences of gravity on the accuracy of vertically positioned pocket watches. Dane Bahne Bonniksen presented an alternative with the carousel in 1892. The patent for this is dated 1906. Both inventions were combined by Blancpain in the new calibre 2322V2. To constantly keep an eye on the complex mechanism, the multi-level watch face allows an unhindered view of the ornate hand-wound mechanism. The designers and watchmakers also placed emphasis on the two carriages, so that they rotate prominently. The discreet casing of this special watch is made from platinum, with a diameter of 47.40 millimetres. As something so exquisite is so rare even in the 21st century, Blancpain has limited this edition to just 50 watches.

The luxurious way of life | 101

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

CARL F. BUCHERER

Over the course of over twenty years, the «Lange 1» from A. Lange & Söhne became an iconic watch. It owes its aura in no small amount to the striking but unobtrusive asymmetrical face with its conspicuous power reserve display and innovative large date. The latter may not have been invented by A. Lange & Söhne, but it contributed from 1994 to the watch’s previously unknown levels of popularity. The mechanism, patented for the luxury manufacturer from the small German town of Glashütte near the Czech border, also allows for a display up to five times larger than normal. As only seven months of the year have 31 days, a small button on the left of the case allows for quick date corrections. In 2015, the company surprised with a new hand-wound mechanism called the L121.1. Among its features, alongside the usual 72 hour power reserve, were a date display that now jumps precisely at midnight and a balance wheel with variable inertia. The watch ticks at three Hz, with a microcosm of 368 components enclosed in the casing made from platinum, yellow or red gold.

Carl. F. Bucherer will produce only 188 of the «Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition 2015», with a 42-mm red gold case and chocolate brown face. The mechanism hidden behind it, christened the CFB T1001, embodies the pinnacle of traditional craftsmanship. This can be seen in the Geneva waves as well as the angled and polished steel parts. The mainspring needs to be manually wound after 70 hours. A power reserve display at the «9» shows the remaining energy. A crescent-shaped date indicator rotates around the face of the watch. The watch also features as 24-hour indicator to show a second time zone.

CARTIER Carole Forestier, chief watchmaker at Cartier, has delivered a masterpiece with this watch. The microcosm, developed over five years, has everything that affluent watch nerds treasure. The name «Grande Complication» does not come from just anywhere. No fewer than 578 components are required to produce one of the skeletonised, self-winding movements with flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar and minute repeater. Cartier requires ten weeks to decorate the components and five further weeks to assemble them. The ambitious manufactory’s watch comes of course with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. This applies to the entire watch with its platinum housing and diameter of 45 millimetres. The seal requires unconditional fulfillment of countless quality criteria, as well as a demanding level of accuracy for tourbillons. The watch may diverge by no more than one minute after one week.

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Most watches with minute repeaters are very discreet. Their special ability to strike time precisely to the minute is only revealed after operating a small slide piece on the left of the case. In contrast, the Breguet «Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087» is happy to show off its many aspects of outstanding watchmaking. In the «south», i.e. at the «6», the tourbillon rotates around its axis once per minute. Particularly impressive, however, are the gongs for the striking mechanism mounted in the left side on the bezel. When Breguet invented the aforementioned gong springs in 1783, these were coiled up around the movement. After carrying out many experiments, his successors improved the form to create the perfect sound. This is precisely why the two hammers strike the carefully tuned gongs vertically from below at lightning speed. The entire automatic calibre with peripheral rotating flywheel and ­80-hour power reserve is called the 565DR. The parts for its escapement and balance are made from silicon. At the «12», there is also a discreet power reserve display.

BREGUET

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

The luxurious way of life | 103

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

TAG HEUER A fraction of one horsepower is all it takes to keep a mechanical watch movement ticking. To reduce that energy requirement even more, TAG Heuer took inspiration from the automotive world. In place of the thirsty toothed wheel chain, the patented automatic calibre V4 uses no fewer than thirteen much more efficient timing belts. High-performance computers had to calculate their way through around 2500 variables to get everything working perfectly.

In the end, only five belts were left. These are joined by highly resilient and low-friction micro ball bearings with zirconium balls. In 2015, this cutting-­ edge mechanical technology was combined with an innovative case design in the «Monaco V4 Carbon Phantom». Its cushion-shaped case, measuring 41x 41 mm, is made from a highly resistant carbon matrix composite. H ­ andling this material, however, requires a great deal of expertise. The tools are worn after approximately ten cases. After all that, only 85 percent of those ­produced are actually used.

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WATCHES & JEWELLERY

CHOPARD

MONTBLANC

1963 was a very special year for Chopard. This was when the German Scheufele family took over the brand, founded in 1860. In 1996, it became a full manufactory with its own range of mechanical watches that has become remarkable. This collection includes the extraordinary hand-wound calibre L.U.C 02.19-L1 with tourbillon. It can trace its history at Chopard back to 2003 and the L.U.C 02.01-L. In addition to the tourbillon, it features an outstanding power reserve of 216 hours. A total of four barrels store the required energy.

In order to be better safe than sorry, the new movement fulfils not only all criteria of the Swiss quality standard for chronometers, but also those of the exclusive Geneva Seal. Chopard will produce only 100 of these rosé gold watches, which highlights also include the fine enamel face, in which the tourbillon rotates. The «12» is crowned with a power display, to remind the wearer of when to wind.

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Another exquisite eye-catcher is the «Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama» from Montblanc. Only 18 of these watches exist, inspired by the explorer Vasco da Gama, who discovered the sea route to India in 1497.

The pioneering spirit of the Portuguese seafarer is reflected in the handwound calibre MB M68.40, including the combination of tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring and a spectacular time zone display, the first of its kind. An ingenious mechanism also creates a stunning, three-dimensional chronometric spectacle. Hands for the hours and minutes at the respective location rotate at its centre. When on the road, a small blue hand at the «6» shows the time at home. The spherical globes to the left and right feature realistic engraving and miniature painting. The northern and southern hemispheres are depicted on the left and right respectively. Each of these is surrounded by a ring with 24-hour graduation and light/dark zones for differentiating day and night. No less prominent is the 18.4 mm minute tourbillon at the «12», which counteracts the negative influences of gravity. Both ends of the aforementioned cylindrical hairspring are curved upwards.

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

BULGARI Classic watches with repeaters chime the minutes on a high-pitched gong and the hours on a low-pitched one. The quarter hours are signalled acoustically by both gongs being struck sequentially. In 2015 Bulgari released the Carillon as part of its Daniel Roth series. This name refers to a kind of musical chiming instrument, as the boutique manufacturer uses three hammers and three hand-formed gongs to sound the quarter hours. The design of the calibre 3300, comprising 327 parts and including a minute tourbillon, bridges the gap between classic watchmaking and modernity. In contrast to traditional designs, the hammers go about their work on the dial side at the «10».

The power reserve of the hand-wound mechanism, which Bulgari encloses in a 48-millimetre red gold case, is sufficient for 75 hours.

The luxurious way of life | 107

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

CHRONOSWISS

PATEK PHILIPPE

As the name «Sirius Répétition à quarts» suggests, Chronoswiss can let know the exact time every quarter of an hour, if the wearer wishes it. The mechanism required for this is discreetly hidden, however, behind the hand-guilloched face made from sterling silver. Every watch is produced by an experienced craftsman using traditional methods and machinery. Alongside the hours and minutes, the exclusive C.126 automatic calibre with a power reserve of around 35 hours also indicates the seconds. Its oscillating weight is skeletonised to increase winding efficiency. The striking mechanism is triggered by pressing the handy button on the left side of the case. The case is available in red gold or stainless steel. Both models measure 41 mm in diameter and are water-resistant up to three bar.

Patek Philippe has been producing drag pointer wrist chronographs since 1923. Its first production watch in 1938 was the now priceless reference 1436, which was used by Valjoux. The CH 27-70/150 in the reference 5004, presented in 1997, is based on a Lémania design and features a perpetual calendar. In 2011 the manufactory released the calibre CH 29-535 PS Q, developed and produced entirely in house. The hand-wound mechanism again has a perpetual calendar. After 77 years, the Geneva family-owned manufactory is finally once again celebrating pure chronograph art with the expert craftsmanship of the fly-back hand. The reference 5370P in its 41-mm platinum case embodies a pure strain of nostalgic understatement. The black watch face with its subtle Breguet digits and tachometer scale shows no signs of obtrusiveness. A look through the transparent base reveals the astonishing and lovingly perfected CHR 29-535 PS in all its glory, protected by multiple patents.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN No need to rush, then. Being in the right place at the right time is all that matters if you want one of the only ten ultra-flat «Harmony» drag pointer chronographs from Vacheron Constantin. The development work for this watch took a whole seven years. The automatic calibre 3500, designed and produced in house, has set two world records simultaneously. Despite housing a self-winding rotor, chronograph, drag pointer and power reserve display, it measures just 5.2 mm in height. This is made possible by a solid gold oscillating weight, which rotates peripherally around the actual movement. The cushion-shaped platinum case, measuring 42 x 42 mm, is only 8.4 mm on the wrist. The complex movement comprises 459 components, including several springs that are just three hundredths of a millimetre thick. As usual for the craftsmen of this 260-year-old manufactory, all components are finished to the absolute highest quality. The opalin watch face evokes the spirit of the 1920s. Its red tachymeter scale can be used to record average speeds up to 1000 metres away.

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The sound of a Bugatti is like music to the ears of petrol heads. To mark the launch of the 1001 hp Veyron in 2004, Parmigiani created the perfect wrist watch. Michel Parmigiani developed a very special movement motor for this piece. The spokes of its gear wheels reflect those of the car’s rims. When viewed from above, the ergonomically domed casing reveals the full movement, with the calibre PF 370 sitting formally on the wrist with its two barrels and ten-day power reserve. External cardan shafts take care of the winding and hand positioning, with a fuel gauge showing the remaining power reserve. Last but not least, the piece with its five plates is mounted on silent blocks. These proven technical aspects were retained by the manufactory for the new «Bugatti 370 Révélation». The characteristic visual features of the red gold anniversary edition are the engine bonnet, which can be folded up and removed, as well as the watch face with its diamond-shaped honeycomb structure of the Bugatti radiator grille.

PARMIGIANI

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

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WATCHES & JEWELLERY

RADO There are times in life when every second counts. That’s why Rado developed the «DiaMaster Grande Seconde». Its face design harkens back to a wise observation by the French pilot and author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: «Perfection is not achieved when one can add no more, but when one would take nothing away.» With this in mind, the puristic timepiece sticks to displaying the hours, minutes and date, along with the seconds emphasised in the left half of the face. The hands and date display on this piece from the Swatch group member are driven by an automatic calibre Eta 2892-A2, modified in house. The 43 mm monoblock casing, made from high-tech ceramic with a metallic gleam, promises eternal beauty and no scratches.

Its raw case is available in white, polished or sand-blasted variants. The case is then processed further in a special plasma oven. At 900 °C, the molecular structure of the ceramic changes. Gases help the special colour to emerge without affecting the high skin tolerability.

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Produced at Glashütte Original’s own watch face manufactory, the face for the «PanoReserve» is understated but powerfully expressive. The hands for the hours, minutes and seconds turn around the dark blue disc. Another hand indicates the power reserve. In the bottom right, one finds a further display for the so-called panorama date. The manufacturer’s own hand-wound calibre 65-01 can be seen through the sapphire glass base, with Glashütte three-quarter plate, 42-hour power reserve and 48 functional stones. The duplex swan neck fine-timing device, developed especially for this movement in 2002, has two functions. It allows the wearer to control the movement and also creates a uniform ticking. The stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter and water-resistant up to five bar.

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

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HERMÈS

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

The combined genius of outstanding craftsmen at La Montre Hermès regularly leads to truly extraordinary creations. In the illustrious «Cape Cod Zebra Pegasus», two traditional features deliver a real wow effect. These are the engraving and the fire enamel. The mythical winged zebra that decorates the face of this watch features wings enamelled using the cloisonné method. Thin partitions prevent the liquid enamel from mixing. The four parts, each with different colour palettes, evoke the design of a silk scarf by Alice Shirley.

The zebra itself is created in painstaking enamel painting. This burst of colour requires multiple melting and burning processes at temperatures of over 800 °C. Only four models have been produced, elegantly framed by a white gold case and featuring a Manufacture Hermès H1837 automatic movement to keep time.

PANERAI

IWC

»Mare Nostrum», our sea, was the name given by the Romans to the Mediterranean at the heart of their empire. In 1943, Panerai produced three prototypes of a 52-mm wide chronograph. In contrast to the diving watches »Radiomir» and »Luminor», these deck watches allowed officers to transfer the precise time from the stationary pendulum clocks to the marine chronometers onboard. They never went into full production at the time, for reasons as yet unknown. Outstanding water resistance was not considered important back then. This is also true of the 150 pieces of the retro model presented in 2015. In contrast to the original, Panerai uses lightweight and anti-allergenic titanium for the jumbo-sized case. This makes the new »Mare Nostrum» a comfortable accessory on the wrist. To stay true to the original, the casing has no transparent base through which to view the fine hand-wound calibre OP XXV. The chronographs, with column wheel control, classic wheel coupling and 30-minute counter, are ­supplied by its subsidiary Montblanc. The movement, originally developed by Minerva, is known as the 13-22.

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Anyone waiting for the white gold IWC «Portuguese Perpetual Calendar» to diverge by one day will be waiting for a long time, 577 and a half years to be precise. In addition to that, the watch shows the passage of the moon across both hemispheres. But this member of the 75-year-old watch series can offer much more. Its perpetual calendar consists of 109 parts. The extra 27 components compared to the original design of 1985 are a result of the larger diameter and the need for several more intermediate wheels. The 37.8 mm by 7.5 mm automatic movement calibre 52615 is made in house. Its golden rotor can be wound from both sides and provides the two barrels with enough energy for 168 hours. Alongside the double moon, the watch face also indicates the hours, minutes and seconds, as well as the power reserve, date, day of the week and month, and the year in full.

HUBLOT

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

Since November 2014, Hublot and Italia Independent have been working ­together on the Lapo Elkann fashion label founded in 2006. The fruit of this liaison is a blue set, consisting of a wrist watch and sunglasses. What’s special about the «Big Bang Unico Italia Independent» is the first ever use of the material texalium in the watch casing. This impressive innovation delivers truly glowing colours, achieved by packing a 0.2-mm thick layer of chemically dyed and highly resilient glass fibre onto several layers of carbon fibres.

Hublot conducted over a hundred firings to achieve the gleaming blue of the bevel. The light 45-mm case protects the «Unico» HUB 1242 chronograph against water pressure up to 10 bar. When fully wound, the mainspring will keep the automatic movement ticking for a whole weekend without the need for an extra power boost. The extravagant language of Lapo Elkann’s design can also be seen on the denim watch strap, with added platinum rivets.

500 sets will be produced before production ends once and for all.

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ROLEX

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

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The «Yacht-Master» from Rolex was the subject of furore as soon as it ­debuted in 1998. Since then, its striking design with bidirectional rotatable glass bezel has made history. The Swiss watchmaking giant is unmoved by spectacular revolutions. Its focus is on cautious evolution, reflected in the new «Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 37». The centre of its case is made from a single piece of red gold. This material, named «Everrose», is also used for the screwed back cover and the bezel, with its scratch-proof «Cerachrome» inlay.

The watch is resistant to water up to ten bar and comes with an official chrono­meter certificate. It is powered by an automatic calibre 2236 movement and features a rotor that can be wound on both sides, a 55-hour power reserve, a balance frequency of four hertz, second stop, «Syloxi» silicon ­balance spring, and a balance wheel with variable moment of inertia. The innovative «Oysterflex» strap ensures the watch sits equally securely and comfortably on the wrist. Its flexible metal spring blades are coated with high-quality elastomer. While we’re on the subject of Rolex, the company is offering a five-year guarantee on all watches since 1 July 2015.

DID YOU KNOW…?

The crystal mine In 1794 to the south of the Mexican city of Chihuahua, Alejo Hernández, Vicente Ruiz and Pedro Ramos discovered a small vein of ore at the foot of a mountain chain known as Naica.

The vein wasn’t mined, however, until 1828 and even then only on a small scale. The real excavation work didn’t start until 1900. In 1910, deep under the surface in one of the largest ore mines in the region, two miners drilled a new ventilation shaft.

As the drill broke through the wall, a torrent of boiling hot water surged through and revealed a cave. Completely by accident, the two miners had made a fascinating geological discovery – a cave full of massive crystals made of selenite, a special kind of gypsum. This led to the cave being named the «Cave of Swords». As the cave was also full of highly poisonous gases, the preparations for exploring it took several years. 90 years later during further exploration work in the mine, another cave was discovered – the «Cave of Crystals». While the most impressive specimens of known crystals measure around 25 centimetres in our regions, those in Naica reach heights of up to 14 metres.

Golden age The country with the world’s largest gold reserves is the USA with over 8100 tonnes of gold. This means that the precious metal makes up 71.6 percent of the country’s currency reserves. Germany is second with approximately 3,380 tonnes. Golden ducats were first minted in Venice in the year 1284. For over 500 years, they were the most popular method of payment in the world. Global gold reserves are currently around 171,300 tonnes. Of these, 84,300 tonnes are in the form of jewellery and 33,000 tonnes are made up of bars and coins. The world’s central banks possess 29,500 tonnes. The rest is in industrial reserves. Around the world, there are still approximately 51,000 tonnes of gold that can be excavated.

Famous Rolex wearers One of the most famous wearers of the Rolex watch, albeit a fictional one, is James Bond. Ian Fleming, author of the original books, names among others the Rolex «Oyster Perpetual». Another personality closely linked with the brand is Paul Newman and the «Daytona». Cult actor and racing driver Steve McQueen is also linked with the Rolex.

His name is often tied to the model «1655 Explorer II».

DRIVE STYLE

COMMITTED TO

ELEGANCE

DRIVE STYLE

«There is one thing that one should demand both of one’s watch and of one’s self: never stand still.»

– Walter Lange –

The winner’s watch: Lange 1 Timezone Como Edition.

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Winner «Best of Show»: Alfa Romeo 8C 2300, 1932.

Once a year, the eyes of the car world are trained on the small town of Cernobbio on the banks of Lake Como. Since 1929, the famous grounds of the Grand Hotel Villa d’Este have played host to one of the most exclusive classic car competitions in the world – the Concorso d’Eleganza.

R

Anka Refghi

A. Lange & Söhne, BMW Group

oaring engines, chassis polished to perfection, gleaming chrome and the smell of petrol in the air. The organisers of this year’s d’Eleganza pulled out all the stops to create an a ­ stonishing event in breathtaking surroundings and perfect weather. This e ­ xhibition of superlatives, held over the Whitsun weekend in May, welcomed rare and historic cars to compete for the affection of the crowd and the jury, and to bring the sophisticated glamour of bygone years back to life.

Art on wheels The BMW group, sponsors of the Concorso since 1999, showcased a collection of very special artworks and presented five cars from its exhibition ­«40 Years of BMW Art Cars». These vehicles, both race and series models, were designed by famous international artists such as Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol and Frank Stella from 1975 to 2010.

A winner’s watch The high point of this year’s festival on the banks of Lake Como was the beauty competition for historic vehicles in a range of categories. The title of «Best of Show», awarded to the most beautiful car at the Concorso, went this year to the stunning Alfa 8C 2300 Spider 1932 owned by American collector David Sydorick. This fascinating car was designed by the famous Zagato design and development studio. Alongside the trophy, the winner was also awarded a very special prize. German watch manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne,

another sponsor of the Concorso d’Eleganza for four years, awarded a ticking work of art with the legendary LANGE 1 ZEITZONE «Como Edition».

This watch features a hand-engraved coat of arms of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este on the white gold caseback and the event’s location Como on the city ring. A true work of craftsmanship suitable for the show’s most elegant vehicle.

At the end of this unforgettable event at the exclusive gala dinner in the Villa d’Este, Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, awarded the unique watch and ended his speech with the words of French painter Marc Chagall: «You can recognise a true collector not by what he already has, but by what he would love to have.» The passions for exclusive timepieces and precious cars are often closely linked. Both involve extraordinary levels of craftsmanship and the love with which they are created. The «marriage» between watch manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne and the Concorso d’Eleganza could therefore not be a better partnership.

We speak to CEO Wilhelm Schmid about the trends of the age.

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The Lange 1 Timezone «Como Edition» watch is presented by CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, Wilhelm Schmid.

PRESTIGE: Mr Schmid, are there in your view different dimensions of time?

WILHELM SCHMID: Absolutely. When I was working for BMW in Africa, I was in charge of the markets in Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana, South Africa and Mozambique. You arrive there accustomed to well-functioning German processes and procedures and after a while, you ask yourself whether you’d be better off adapting or jumping on the next flight home. Advanced economies have a much different feeling for time than countries where the process of industrialisation is not so developed. There is a wonderful saying in Africa: «You have watches, we have time.»

winner. That’s something very special when you consider that we normally do not produce custom watches.

A. Lange & Söhne is famously reluctant to jump on every «trend bandwagon». Is this your philosophy?

Our philosophy is essentially to keep advancing the aim of our founder – to produce the best watches in the world and to never stand still. Whether we achieve that or not is another question, but that is the aim that drives us every day.

On top of that, we concentrate on what we are really best at – men’s watches. We always think long term and never go running after trends. If you’re waiting for us to produce a smartwatch then you will probably be disappointed.

Do you have a favourite watch?

You might as well ask me who my favourite child is, there is no right answer. But there are some watches with which I share an emotional connection. Like the Datograph, for example, which we launched in 2012. That was the first watch where I was involved in the development right from the start. It’s fair to say that I have a soft spot for chronographs.

The winner of this year’s Concorso d’Eleganza was awarded a very special watch …

Yes, the Lange 1 Zeitzone. This special version of the watch is unique, only one has been produced for the

A. Lange & Söhne Dresden watchmaker Ferdinand A. Lange laid the foundations for the company in 1845 by founding his workshop. After the Second World War, the company was dispossessed and the name A. Lange & Söhne faded almost entirely into memory. That was until 1990, when Walter Lange, great grandson of the company founder, saw the time was right for a new start. Today, the company produces only a few thousand wristwatches made from gold or platinum, which all contain mechanisms produced exclusively in house that are painstakingly decorated and assembled by hand.

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How do you want people to feel when they wear an A. Lange & Söhne watch?

I always find it very moving when I realise that people know exactly why they invest so much money in one of our watches. When they understand how much work has gone into it and how these watches are produced with such love for detail. When I get the feeling that people understand this when they wear that watch, that makes me very happy.

Back to the here and now. What would you do if you had six months free?

Easy. I’d go to Africa. I’d love to just travel all over the continent again, enjoy our house and lie on the beach.

Just switch off and then maybe travel around Asia for a few weeks.

THE WORLD’S TOUGHEST RALLY PARIS–DAKAR It is the most famous long-distance and desert rally in the world and was held annually almost exclusively on the African continent from 1978 to 2007. In 2008, a terror threat resulted in the rally being cancelled and then moved to South America for security reasons, where it has since remained. The first Dakar Rally began on 26 December 1978 in Paris and ended on 14 January 1979 in Dakar. The idea came from Thierry Sabine, who got lost whilst travelling with his motorbike in the Libyan desert in 1977 and almost died as a result.

The desert that almost claimed his life fascinated Sabine, who wanted to share this fascination with as many people as possible. He organised a race through the endless sea of sand. 170 participants set out on the 6,000-mile journey across the tracks of Algeria, Niger, Mali, Upper Volta (modern day Burkina Faso) and Senegal. Over a quarter of participants lost their way in the Aïr mountains. By the time they reached Bamako, half had already given up.

This is what helped create the Dakar legend and gave the rally its first heroes.

By the 80s, the rally had already achieved cult status. To this day it is a human and sporting adventure, and an experience for those who want to put their courage to the test. This adventure is open to everyone and «victory» goes to every participant that completes the course. In 2001, German race driver Jutta Kleinschmidt was the first woman to win the Dakar Rally. The rally is one of the toughest and most dangerous sporting events in the world and has so far claimed 61 lives.

5 QUOTES «A challenge for everyone who takes part. A dream for those who stay at home.»

– Thierry Sabine –

«When we go up a dune, we drive up like a snake, slowly working our way up to the top.

We cannot afford to come to a stop, because then you can get stuck very quickly.» – Carlos Sainz – «Of course the rally is dangerous, but I wouldn’t abolish it for that reason. We have to think of what can be done to reduce the number of accidents. Or at least to have fewer fatal accidents.» – Jutta Kleinschmidt –

«You either love the rally or you hate it.»

– Toby Price, driver –

«Dakar Rally: One dead, several injured. Hey people, fly to the sea and relax.

But what’s the point in pelting through the desert as fast as possible? So you don’t have to see all the poor, hungry and sick children?»

–Wolfgang J. Reuss, satirist –

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FASHION Katharine Hepburn | Woman of the Year

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MOVIES

CREATE

FASHION We still don’t know how often a film star creates a fashion trend by wearing a particular dress, suit or accessory. But we do know that film exerts an astonishing impact on fashion.

Lilly Steffen Annex

Dorothy Lamour

«What I wear attracts millions.»

– Dorothy Lamour –

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Marlene Dietrich

A Classic – the Marlene Slacks The fact that actors can continue to play their roles in what is meant to be their private lives has a lot to do with their outfits. Marlene Dietrich had designer Travis Banton to thank for the sparkling appearances that were defined by her unique and provocative style. Banton’s contrived, tried-and-tested masculine suits ensured Dietrich always made her trademark grand entrance, even when she was not filming.

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«I never go outside unless I look like Joan Crawford the movie star. If you want to see the girl next door, go next door.» – Joan Crawford –

C

Joan Crawford | Letty Lynton

ostume designers have a massive influence on films because they determine the visual appearance of each character. Their work also determines whether a production is successful. Costume designers have a great deal of responsibility: they are not only creative artists, but often also historians, researchers and skilled artisans, all rolled into one. Cinema and haute couture play by different rules. Some costume designers have even reinvented the colour scale. For example, Orry-Kelly realized that a rustcoloured dress would look blood-red in a black-and-white film, making it much more intense than in real life.

Wardrobe of the stars Dressed in the slacks of a Marlene, the little black dress of an Audrey or the leather jacket of a Brando, even your average girl or boy-next-door would feel that little bit more rakish, daredevil and extravagant. Marlene Dietrich had a particularly powerful influence as the curtain gradually rose to reveal the emancipated woman. Girls with bobs and the skimpy satin dresses of the Charleston era looked like Louise Brooks and Clara Bow,

the personification of big city attitudes. Our grandmothers’ generation discarded their corsets, pearls and fringes to dance to the rhythms of the Charleston and the Shimmy. This generation was replaced by strong career women like Joan Crawford, Greta Garbo and Norma Shearer – the kind of self-made women who wore body-hugging dresses and classic tailor-­ made suits. With her slacks, flowing dresses and short hair, Joan Crawford became the girl next door with an exquisite and expensive wardrobe. During the first big break in her long career, she engaged Gilbert Adrian, MGM’s star costume designer, to be her stylist. Strong women like Crawford had to dress the part.

Adrian designed geometrically cut dresses with huge collars, wasp waists and shoulder pads.

This became Crawford’s signature style and Macy’s sold over half a million of such broad shouldered creations.

Fashions gradually became more and more diverse with the advent of the sporty Katherine Hepburn, the sex bomb Marilyn Monroe, the young rebels James Dean and Marlon Brando and the erotic Sophia Loren. In the eighties, Madonna put fishnet vests and lacy gloves on the map in her movie «Desperately seeking Susan».

Costumes create Actors In the film «Sabrina» Audrey Hepburn played a chauffeur’s daughter who is sent to Paris for cooking classes. When she returns home, she has transformed herself into a sophisticated young lady with the help of French couture. To illustrate this metamorphosis, Paramount hired a genuine French fashion designer – Hubert de Givenchy.

The first collection from this young designer had sent shockwaves through the fashion world, so it was not surprising that the movie was awarded an Oscar for Costume Design. A lifelong friendship evolved between de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn. From then on, the French designer was the star’s private and professional stylist. His sense of colours lit up the silver screen. His red coats, apple-­ green suits and that shocking pink dress really caught the audience’s imagination. And then there were his hats. They provided the perfect frame for Hepburn’s face. Audrey Hepburn herself commented: «Givenchy’s creations always gave me a sense of security and self-confidence. Work was much easier when I knew my appearance was

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FASHION

perfect. It was the same in my private life: Givenchy’s outfits gave me a sense of being protected when I was with strangers or in unfamiliar situations because I felt so good in them. I have been shaped by Hubert de Givenchy.» If clothes make the man, then costumes certainly make actors. And costume designers create fashions that are desired by millions of people.

Design or Disaster!

Film history has also had its fair share of fashion flops. In 1931, the famous Coco Chanel failed by clinging too hard to the very particular style of her label. Her inflexibility meant she failed to recognize a new fashion trend and her costumes for Gloria Swanson in «Tonight or Never» proved to be a flop. In brief, it is the substance of failures.

Coco Chanel failed to calculate how long it takes for a film to move from the design phase in pre-production to being ready for release. In the meantime a new, accentuated silhouette had come into fashion and longer skirts were now a must.

Madame Chanel’s mistake was to stubbornly cling on to her designs from the late 1920s.

The Concept of the Muse The Thirties and Forties were the heyday of the Hollywood Look. During this time, a new kind of femininity was created, which swept through the stores on New York’s 5th Avenue. Now cinema either competed against fashion designers or tried to flirt with them. Adrian was the most influential costume designer in Hollywood. He mainly worked for MGM, where he styled Greta Garbo, Joan Crawford, Jean Harlow, Lana Turner, Judy Garland, Katharine Hepburn and many others be-

Reference List Film and Fashion // Fashion in Film Regine and Peter W. Engelmeier Prestel-Verlag Fashion in Film Véronique Le Bris Edel Verlag

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«We had stumbled on a real recipe for success: a non-stop fashion show of amazing dresses.»

– Gloria Swanson –

Gloria Swanson | Father Takes a Wife

tween 1928 and 1948. Adrian was the pioneer for a generation of costume designers who were couturiers at heart. The movies were their boutiques, the actresses their models and the silver screen their catwalk. Today, when fashion magazines adorn their covers with images of major stars, it is only because these actresses have contracts with the top labels. Fashion is once again staking its claim on movie stars. The concept of the muse is the latest episode in this relationship between film and fashion.

Muses and Designers While Lauren Bacall was raising the bar in Hollywood with her masculine suits, in Paris Dior was launching his New Look. They were followed by Ava Gardner in her pencil skirt, Audrey Hepburn with her Givenchy silhouette and Brigitte Bardot in her Mary Quant mini skirt. As for Catherine Deneuve, she idolized Saint Laurent, while Jeanne Moreau was devoted to Pierre Cardin.

BLACK WHITE � Who loves black and white?

If bright autumn shades are not for you, why not step back and dress in eternally chic black and white? The perfect way to bring classic black bang up to date.

I

BY LAURA

VII II V V IV

VI I HERMÈS II BURBERRY III MICHAEL KORS IV MICHAEL KORS V HERMÈS VI MOLLY BRACKEN VII RALPH LAUREN

III

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BIO DE

THE ECO-LUXURY CLASS

LUXE Batik pants, Birkenstocks and baking spelt bread under a full moon. In the past, natural cosmetics were considered to be only for tree-huggers and hippies who grew their own vegetables, long before the advent of ÂŤurban gardeningÂť. But now a new generation of high-end beauty products means that organic beauty has a touch of real luxury.

Steffi Hidber

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BEAUTY

S

Interestingly, it is mainly young, dynamic businesswomen who have recognised the need to meet the growing demand for gentle, natural and green skincare and make-up products by creating quality niche brands. In the past, natural cosmetics may have been formulated very cleverly, but they just weren’t sexy. Now all this has changed with the rise of luxury organic brands. Of course natural cosmetics giants such as Weleda, Dr. Hauschka and Annemarie Börlind supply excellent, effective products for the skin and hair. But what about customers who are looking for effective ingredients and the shopping experience offered by major luxury brands? Such consumers are increasingly choosing organic foods, taking up yoga and meditation and drinking green smoothies in order to keep their bodies in Instagram shape.

The solution With a little know-how and a good marketing team it’s possible to launch a luxury natural cosmetics brand. Young, dynamic brands such as Susanne Kaufmann, Lina Hanson and Kahina Giving Beauty show that spoilt ­consumers are keen to use expensive natural cosmetics. Harvard graduate

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As a beautician, Laura Schurter struggled with her own sensitive skin problems, but soon realised that her skin felt so much better when she used natural, organic skincare products. Now she is also delighted to see how demand is soaring and has set up her Greenlane portal to offer a range of new organic brands from around the world. She also sells beautiful cosmetic brands, including Kjaer Weis and Ilia, who are now finally providing real alternatives to the cosmetics giants, such as MAC and Lancôme.

Skincare using precious plant extracts Tata Harper is a leading organic skincare brand. An engineer by training, Tata set up her eponymous label in 2011 because she simply couldn’t find what she was looking for elsewhere. «When I started looking for natural, non-toxic alternatives to the synthetic creams that I had been using for years, I realised there was a huge gap in the market. Clearly no-one was offering 100 % ­natural skincare products that were totally uncompromising in terms of their effectiveness, texture and scent. So I drummed up a group of experts from all over the world to create Tata Harper – based on the very latest research that promised real anti-aging results.»

and young entrepreneur Anna Baumgartner picked up on the trend at an early stage when she opened her Biomazing online store. She clearly believes the future lies in luxury organic brands.

«In terms of quality, it’s clear that luxury natural cosmetics are the best products on the market. It’s not possible to take rare, highly effective raw materials and ingredients and craft them into handmade products using industrial manufacturing processes, just as a Birkin Bag can never be mass-produced! Now that the effectiveness of luxury natural cosmetics has been proven, discerning customers are looking for – and finding – special, premium- quality ingredients and products that really work. For a time, it was difficult to get hold of high-end natural cosmetics. We wanted to change all that with Biomazing, and the demand has proven we were right.»

In the luxury sector, Tata Harper is joined by a number of other interesting brands. They have already attracted many devoted followers - including many celebrities – from all over the world thanks to their quality range of effective skincare products. For example, make-up artist Lina Hanson counts many Hollywood stars among her clients, including Naomi Watts, Natalie Portman, Brooke Shields and Ewan McGregor. She knows only too well how demanding «pampered skin» can be. Many organic beauty retailers say her top-quality face and body serums are some of their most popular products. But her own favourite beauty product is not a luxury oil. It’s «simple» coconut oil. «I use coconut oil for everything. I add it to my green smoothies, use it for oil pulling (a cleansing ritual involving swishing oil around the mouth for 10 to 20 minutes), as a hair mask and make-up remover. It can be used in so many ways – you just have to make sure it’s certified organic and untreated.»

Many of the new luxury natural cosmetics brands come from Europe: Susanne Kaufmann has built up her small-but-beautiful organic cosmetics empire from her hotel and spa in Austria’s Bregenz Forest, while in Switzerland four friends (and subsequently their children) have now been running Farfalla for 30 years, producing natural, organic beauty and skincare products. The UK and USA have produced some rather more media-savvy ’stars’ who proclaim their green lifestyles through selected products and present themselves as icons of the new trend towards sustainability. May Lindstrom is not only a former model but also a young mother who has recorded the process of setting up her high-priced skincare products on Instagram, Facebook and her own blog. She describes the whole process from design through to sales, in this way building a personal relationship with her customers. Some people might think it’s just hype. But the ingredients used in these new luxury products have always been highly valued, and they are often gentler and more skin friendly than their high-tech clones.

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BEAUTY

WEB TIPS www.biomazing.ch www.greenlane.ch www.shetime.ch www.allforeves.com www.beingcontent.com www.spiritbeautylounge.com www.niche-beauty.com

Natural cosmetics with a luxury bonus Coconut oil is one of the shining stars of natural cosmetics, but there is also a whole range of new, precious plant oils with extraordinary properties that benefit the skin, such as marula oil from South Africa, baobab oil from Africa and camellia seed extract from Japan. For Christina Roth, an international make-up artist from Berlin, these precious ingredients lie at the heart of her UND GRETEL make-up line. Working with her colleague Stephanie Dettman, her small label has recently begun producing long-lasting cosmetics in strong colours, including mascaras, eye liners, eye shadows,­ ­lipsticks and beautiful foundations and powders.

Every product has to meet their own high standards as make-up professionals. «We found natural cosmetics lacked that touch of luxury that brightens up our everyday lives. So with UND GRETEL we have brought together two contrasting elements – premium high fashion and certified natural cosmetics.»

For businesswoman and model Kartika Luyet, it was this gap between what was wanted and what was available that drove her to set up her «ecotrendy» range of nail polish, Kure Bazaar. «We wanted to create a formula that was as natural as possible but without compromising on quality and durability. The polish had to be tough, long-lasting, fast-drying and very glossy … and of course it had to come in a range of great shades. In other

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words, it was quite a challenge» In the world of natural cosmetics, nail polish is the most difficult product to manufacture because durable nail polish ­generally needs hardening – and therefore toxic – ingredients. So Kure B ­ azaar went as far as possible, with the current formula containing 85 % natural ingredients. «This is the highest percentage we can use while still guaranteeing good results.»

Kjaer Weis runs a leading luxury make-up brand of the same name. For her range, the very best ingredients are combined with environmentally friendly but beautiful packaging. Since launching her stunning make-up products ­(including «Radiance», a highlighter which has won many beauty awards), this native of Denmark has become one of the leading lights of the fashion scene, particularly because of her heavy metal compacts. The shiny, silver packaging give the product a very expensive feel, but the compacts are also very easy to refill. Her products are also totally free of ingredients such as phthalates, propylene glycol, parabens and mineral oils. She sums up her philosophy in a few words: «We have solved the problem of what’s «good» or «bad» for the skin by quite simply not using anything «bad».

There are now so many wonderful natural beauty products for skin and hair, so it’s easy to cheat on your much-loved luxury brand just a little by trying out one of the new organic alternatives. You might even discover a completely new way of feeling good. And at worst you might find a gentler alternative with a feel-good factor. Isn’t that something we all deserve?

A DISCOVERY FROM A TO Z Herbivore Botanicals Ilia John Masters Organics Kahina Giving Beauty Kjaer Weis Kure Bazar Lina Hanson May Lindstrom Rahua Richard Lüscher Britos RMS Beauty Spa Manufactur Susanne Kaufmann Tata Harper The Organic Pharmacy UND GRETEL Vestige Verdant

BEAUTY

LINA HANSON Global Face Serum, 30 ml VESTIGE VERDANT Bioactive Detox & Anti Aging Mask (200ml)

ABSOLUTION La Crème du Soir, 30 ml

KJAER WEIS Lip Tint in Dream State

UND GRETEL «Lieth» Foundation (30ml), in five shades

TATA HARPER Volumizing Lip and Cheek Tint

INDIE LEE Swiss Apple Facial Serum, 30 ml

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LIVING Foto: 8H Image by Jens Lindhe

«For me, architecture is the means, not the end.

It’s a means of making different life forms possible.»

– Bjarke Ingels –

YES IS MORE! «Architecture seems to find itself in a quandary: either naively utopian or stultifyingly pragmatic.»

Lone K. Halvorsen

Bjarke Ingels Group / BIG

The Maritime Museum of Denmark The building meets the strict conditions that were set: the museum is only 1 metre high, but descends 10 metres below ground.

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Photo: SOF Image by Luca Santiago Mora

Photo: SOF Image by Luca Santiago Mora

«I think architecture is rarely the product of a single ideology. It’s more like it can be shaped by a really big idea. It can accommodate a lot of life forms.» – Bjarke Ingels –

LIVING «Museet for Søfart», the Maritime Museum of Denmark in Helsingør am Øresund, Denmark.

This may sound a little utopian but that’s how it should be, because Yes is more! The philosophical basis of the company is reflected in its abbreviation and provides scope for further interpretation. BIG means BIG thinking with BIG ideas from BIG thinkers who push the envelope and aim to create truly great architecture! And how to avoid architecture that is naively utopian or stultifyingly pragmatic?

Ingels says: «A pragmatic utopian architecture aims to create spaces that are socially, economically and environmentally perfect.»

Urban Utopias

B

IG! No other abbreviation could have been more fitting for the Bjarke Ingels Group. Bjarke Ingels is young, bold and already internationally acclaimed at the age of 40. Since 2005 he has headed up the architects firm with the name of BIG – now with offices not only in Copenhagen but also in New York and Beijing. In 2001 he had already attracted international attention with his first company, PLOT, which he co-founded with Julian de Smedt. The two of them quickly gained the recognition they deserved, winning the Golden Lion in Venice in 2004 for the design of the concert hall in Stavanger, Norway. Despite their huge success they went their separate ways in 2005 and Bjarke Ingels founded BIG.

Boldly Pragmatic with Visionary Tendencies With his bold ideas and extraordinary projects, Bjarke Ingels is one of today’s top young architects and BIG is undoubtedly a high-flying architectural firm.

His Style: boldly pragmatic with visionary tendencies. His Philosophy: Yes is more! His objective: architecture that is flexible and innovative and adapts itself to current conditions. This creates spaces that function without compromise and respond to as many needs as possible.

He builds dwellings in the shape of a curved eight, apartment blocks in stone to look like mountain landscapes, and he even hides a waste-to-energy plant beneath a ski slope. Ingels himself says: «Architecture has always been governed by extremes: by an avant garde full of crazy ideas drawn from philosophy or mysticism and by highly organized consultancy firms, who construct predictable, boring boxes to a high standard.» BIG commits itself to the crazy ideas, but its unorthodox designs are not only zany but also sensational, functional and sustainable. The «Mountain Dwellings» is another of BIG’s crazy ideas. Dating from 2008, it is also one of their best-known projects. Indeed, it is a pretty bizarre project that turns out to be even more off-the-wall in real life. The experimental architects twisted the various stacked functional elements, constructing a building in which the independent living and parking components are connected symbiotically with one another. They built an artificial 34-metre-high mountain and, with a 1:3 ratio, the apartments function as the roof of the four-storey parking garage. The apartments were constructed in tandem in a stepped style, so the terraces were planted and laid out with a permanent irrigation system which serves the apartment above. It makes a mockery of the idea that parking garages are the grey places where murders are committed that we see in the movies.

Here, they are bright and colourful and built using dozens of pillars – in some areas the ceiling soars to 16 metres, giving it a cathedral-like air. In Mountain Dwellings, the simple principles of lifting, lowering, turning and shifting have created a sensational building – you could even imagine moving into the parking garage.

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Foto: MTN, Carsten Kring

Mountain Dwellings

Not far from Copenhagen, in Helsingør on the river Øresund, we find Kronburg Castle, a World Heritage Site. This is where Shakespeare’s Hamlet lived and died. And located on a headland facing Sweden, it was also a major passageway between the Baltic Sea and the North. This was where Danish sailors left their country, perhaps never to return.

So it is the perfect place for a maritime museum.

But after a hundred years the Danish maritime museum, «Museet for Søfart» had to leave Kronburg Castle at UNESCO’s request. But there was one condition: the new building could be only one metre high, so as not to spoil the view of Kronburg Catle. As we have come to expect from BIG, the new building is stunning! This time the building was constructed quite differently: «Although it is below the surface, we have constructed the highest building we have ever designed for Denmark», say Ingels. The condition was adhered to and there

is still an unrestricted view of Hamlet’s stage. Below the turf they laid a 150 metre long, 25 metre wide, 10 metre deep cement dry dock (the pillars go down another 30 metres). With this, Bjarke Ingels became the king of the paradox, as his hallmarks had previously always been hills and mountains. He has managed to create a new, implosive architecture which no longer needs to explode above the earth. The tilted bridges and steep stairs make visitors feel like they are on the high seas – not a problem for a seafaring nation like the Danes.

Big, bigger, Bjarke Ingels So who is the young Dane who is making his mark in the earth? Bjarke Ingels was born in Copenhagen in 1974 and in 1999 completed his studies at The Royal Danish Academy for Art and Architecture. «I knew absolutely nothing about architecture. The only architect I’d ever heard of was Jørgen Utzon. I really had no preconceived ideas» says Ingels. For a long time he dreamt about becoming a comic artist and he only applied to the Danish Academy because he thought his studies would involve a lot of drawing. His breakthrough came when he worked with the renowned architect Rem Koolhaas and set up his first company with Julian de Smedt. Considering that he originally wanted to be a comic artist rather than an architect, he has certainly had his share of success.

FURTHER READING «Yes is More» is an easy-to-read, radical manifesto from Copenhagen-based architectural firm the Bjarke Ingels Group, or BIG for short. More like a comic than a typical architectural book, it communicates its unique agenda for contemporary architecture. The play on words, Yes is More, sums up the company’s philosophy, its lack of respect for excessive formalism and its determination to involve the masses. This monograph presents the company’s approach and results using that most appealing and popular form of communication: the comic.

Yes is More. An Archicomic on the Evolution of Architecture Bjarke Ingels Group Pocket Publisher

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INSIDE OUTSIDE LIVING.

The frameless insulated sliding doors by Sky-Frame blend naturally into their surroundings.

So it is hard to say where the living room ends and where the view starts: WWW.SKY-FRAME.CH

Photo: Nico Schärer

THE

OF LAKE LUCERNE Nenad Mlinarevic joins the world’s elite chefs with «focus».

Photo: Beat Brechbühl

Dr. Thomas Hauer

Photo: Nico Sch채rer

CULINARIUM

Photo: Beat Brechbühl

Nenad Mlinarevic

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Making comparisons is always difficult. Particularly when we’re talking about a chef’s particular style. But in fact the stylistic contrasts that define today’s topflight cuisine have changed little since the days of Carême and Escoffier. Generally, they are still closely linked to the names of a few star chefs.

Switzerland is no exception, despite the fact that it only has a few top chefs. Indeed, while Andreas Caminada has for many years been the undisputed creative force behind Switzerland’s culinary avant-garde, it is Benoît Violier with his passion for the best and finest produce who is the current king of classic haute cuisine. Just about every Michelin-starred chef in Switzerland falls roughly into one of these two schools.

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decorative. He is always seeking out new ideas and trying to evolve.

Photo: Nico Schärer

Mlinarevic hails from Zurich but has Serbian roots, which he honours in «focus», his fine dining restaurant on the banks of Lake Lucerne. His cuisine is indubitably one of the most modern and innovative to be found anywhere in Europe today. It was not for nothing that Mlinarevic spent two years as Caminada’s sous-chef, and he has twice worked with Joachim Wissler as a guest chef. But he also has the most profound respect for ingredients, something he particularly learned from the leading lights of New Nordic Cuisine around René Redzepis.

Mlinarevic worked with the latter at Noma, his acclaimed restaurant in Copenhagen. His creations also display glimmers of classic haute cuisine, which the 34 -year-old chef learned under Claus-Peter Lumpp at Restaurant «Bareiss» and «Tantris» in Munich.

Despite these influences, Mlinarevic’s dishes are characterised by their ­ ­captivating simplicity, as is the case with other exceptional chefs such as Thomas Keller or Alain Ducasse. At the same time, his creations are easy to understand and quite simply fun!

Photo: Beat Brechbühl

Ideas from nature

But only just.

In Nenad Mlinarevic, a man has entered the international culinary stage and joined the ranks of the very best in a few short years. Perhaps this is be­ cause he has consistently refused to be pigeonholed in this way. With a right arm covered in tattoos of vegetables, dressed in skinny jeans and a T-shirt, Mlinarevic certainly smashes the usual stereotypes. His tough exterior conceals a razor-­sharp mind, boundless creativity and a high degree of sensitivity. Although he is relaxed ­during our interview, he is also extremely focused.

He is not one for inconsequential chit-chat. Aided by his team of three under Sous-Chef Pascal Steffen, he serves up to 35 guests five evenings a week. Behind the heavy chef’s table there are rows of cookbooks that are clearly more than just

Many of his colleagues seem to be obsessed with luxury products or like to laboriously deconstruct their ingredients until they are practically unrecognisable. They then employ a whole battery of texturisers to glue them back ­together and create alginate spheres, solid foams or gaudy dollops of gel.

Meanwhile, Mlinarevic is simply following his own path. This is why many young chefs are finding their way to Vitznau to learn from him and hone their skills. Mlinarevic draws his main inspiration from nature, the natural rhythm of the seasons. The aromatic and intellectual value of his creations is a result of his careful selection of ingredients that are rarely used in traditional haute cuisine. Common ingredients such as radish, beetroot, kohlrabi and cabbage are found alongside more unusual items, such as canola, beeswax and wheat grass. Every day the chef and his team gather fresh wild herbs and flowers from the slopes of Mount Rigi.

Mlinarevic likes to use traditional techniques, so his menu often includes foods that have been fermented, smoked or preserved in some way. They are served up in a wide variety of ways, but the essential ingredients are always clearly recognisable. This is an approach that is far removed from the culinary mainstream, which clings on to the safe trio of soft, sweet and pleasant.

Mlinarevic is not afraid to play with sour, salty and spicy flavours. His ninecourse degustation menu allows guests to select what they want, taking them on a journey into unknown – and hence all the more exciting – worlds of ­flavour. In early 2015 Mlinarevic was the first prominent chef in Switzerland to decide to take things a stage further and ban all international luxury products from his menu. This means that in future he will only use seasonal Swiss products. Most of them come from the 80-kilometre radius around Vitznau.

The most exotic things are often to be found on your own doorstep.

Every course on the menu comes with details of the origin of the main

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ingredients and those that provide the key flavours. So guests learn that the raw marinated whitefish with nasturtiums and camelina vinaigrette comes from Lake Maggiore; that the saffron in the smoked goat’s ricotta with braised artichokes comes from Althäusern; and that the juicy suckling pig with caramelised cauliflower is from Muotathal.

Turnips, haute cuisine style

Setting new standards in presentation At first his creations look almost as if they have been thrown together. But they have been thought through in the minutest detail – though paradoxically this isn’t always totally clear, even to Mlinarevic. An important part of the presentation is the carefully selected tableware. During the meal, Mlinarevic switches between bright white porcelain from Hering Berlin, providing a bewitching contrast between glazed and unglazed surfaces, and simple plates and bowls that reflect Japanese minimalism with their mix of bright and subdued colours. It’s as if every dish is telling a little story.

This dialogue of content and form, nature and culture, is continued in the restaurant decor. Modern, almost sculptural furniture that has been stripped back to essentials, a few carefully chosen table accessories, warm colours and beautiful natural materials create an almost meditative atmosphere.

Water also has its part to play in this work of art.

Diners can look across Lake Lucerne and admire the majestic mountains on its far shores.

Photo: Beat Brechbühl

Photo: Beat Brechbühl

Some critics like to suggest that this radical departure from mainstream haute cuisine is an attempt to copy restaurants like Noma or to jump on the farmto-table bandwagon. But Mlinarevic has other ideas. For him, this reorientation is simply the logical next step for his cooking. He believes any halfway talented chef can create a passable dish from lobster and langoustines, but it takes real creativity, going far beyond cheap effects, to turn turnips and potatoes into haute cuisine. Of course it involves some risks. At first glance, it seems that Mlinarevic runs the risk of alienating fans of foie gras and other luxury foods. After all, they make up the majority of lovers of fine cuisine in a conservative country like Switzerland. But the Swiss are also patriotic in culinary

terms, and perhaps they really do prefer to see locally grown produce on their plates. A more serious threat is the fact that inspectors for restaurant guides tend to view radical tendencies with suspicion, preferring evolution to revolution. It is true that the Michelin Guide awarded «focus» two stars in the year it opened, but at that time it was for a cuisine that concentrated more on traditional products. But Nenad Mlinarevic doesn’t worry about this. Indeed, he just does his thing, without trying to earn stars and points. And perhaps the key to his success lies in the fact that his cooking appeals equally to the heart, the taste buds and the intellect.

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PURE PLEASURE

SAFFRON THE RED GOLD

Saffron is the most expensive spice in the world. Its crimson threads give dishes a unique flavour and for centuries have been used as a dye and as a treatment for various ailments.

E

Annabel Roten

very autumn, fields in the Middle East and Mediterra- Real saffron gives dishes an intense, bitter, hay-like flavour and nean region are transformed into seas of purple. This a golden colour. It contains crocin, a natural pigment mainly is when the crocus sativus come into flower, whose found in varieties of crocus and gardenia, so it is also used as a buds yield the coveted saffron. The majority of saffron yellow dye. fields are in Iran, which grows 91 percent of the world’s saffron. It is also grown in Spain, The name saffron comes from the Arab Greece, Italy, Austria and Switzerland. Each word za’fran, meaning «be yellow». Yellow is «What do farmers crocus flower contains three stigmas, which the holy colour of rulers and elites, a symbol know about saffron?» look like thin red threads. They are laboriof happiness and is also associated with – Old saying – ously separated by hand from the rest of the gold. According to mythology, Zeus slept plant, which is not used because it has no on a bed of saffron, and the Romans aroma. It then takes many hours to dry the strewed saffron threads on their marriage threads before they can be used. beds. The Roman saying «dormivit in sacco «Saffron is as arrogant croci» (he has slept in a bed of saffron) as a beautiful woman – At up to 10 Swiss francs per gram, saffron means that someone is feeling cheerful and it demands attention certainly deserves its name «red gold». But full of life. And they were onto something, as from the moment the sun saffron seems to have a positive effect when why is it so expensive? Around two tonnes comes up.» of saffron are grown worldwide each year. we are feeling down. It contains carotenoids – Old saying – The production costs are very high. One and essential oils, which have anti-inflamflower produces just three saffron threads, matory properties and aid digestion. It also but it needs a relatively large area to grow. It stimulates oxygen intake and lowers blood takes over 100,000 flowers and 1,000 pressure. square metres to produce one kilogram of saffron. The harvest period is only two months long, and the saffron has to be picked Saffron really is worth its weight in gold. It is a true all-rounder by hand. These high prices make it tempting to produce fake that acts as a dye, adds flavour to our food, lifts our spirits and saffron. This is done by pulverising pure saffron and diluting it improves our health. with other spices such as turmeric.

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PREVIEW VOLUME 2 The Emperor of the Tahitian pearl Robert Wan has brought the cultivation of Tahitian pearls to a whole new level, and is rightfully known as «the Emperor of the Tahitian pearl». His pearls range in colour from light grey to anthracite, with overtones of brown, blue, peacock green and aubergine. These extraordinarily beautiful pearls are worn by Tahitian men and women, young and old. His pearls are in demand with jewellers the world over. Our editor visited Wan’s pearl farms and learned more about the art of pearl cultivation.

A city with heart Avant-garde architecture and unusual buildings dominate the skyline of Canada’s business and financial capital. Toronto is also a leading light of the theatre and dance scene. «Think big, be creative»: The city’s iconic buildings include the National Ballet School, whose original historic building has now been enfolded in glass wings, and the world’s third-highest TV tower, the CN Tower. But nature certainly doesn’t allow itself to be overshadowed – right on Toronto’s doorstep, the Niagara River plummets over the famous Falls at a rate of 155 million litres per minute. Toronto is home to more than 100 different cultures, providing a colourful blend of ideas, traditions, passions, tastes, flavours and opinions.

The cowboy photographer Richard Prince became something of a superstar when he put together pieces of Marlboro advertisements to create his «Cowboys» series. But very few people know that this American artist owes a debt of gratitude to Dieter Blum, the German photographer who turned the myth of the American cowboy into advertising and art history. In 2007 his unique print «Rauchender Mann» (Smoking Man) became the most expensive photo ever to be sold at auction in Germany. Our editor talks to Blum about his fascination with cowboys and looks back at his 50-year career as a photographer. The large-grained textures and overblown colours of his photographs give them an almost cinematic look.

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