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VOLUME 1 ⁄ SPRING 2019

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EDITORIAL

DEAR LIFESTYLE FRIENDS

EDI TO RIAL

THE TIME IS NOW! I am very pleased to present our 1st edition of PRE for this year.

As a valued and loyal reader, you’ve probably already noticed after the first few pages that PRESTIGE now has a new look and style. The time is ripe for us to break new ground with the magazine and publish an international edition in English 4 times per year as well.

Time plays a central role in the first edition of PRE. Be it with the various new watches, as always expertly interpreted by our “Watchionista” Gisbert Brunner, or with beautiful portraits of the great watch brands Panerai and Breitling.

We also devote ourselves to the death of Karl Lagerfeld, THE greatest fashion designer of the last 40 years, who shaped and revolutionized the fashion world like no one else.

Next we dedicate ourselves to the myth of Harley-Davidson and take you on a journey through time with this incredible cult brand. We also report on the timeless elegance of brands such as Dom Perignon, the ultra-hip development of Off-White and the largest yacht broker in Europe, Ocean Independence.

Also, not to forget, the various art stories where we cover the fascinating blue period currently on show in the Picasso exhibition at Fondation Beyeler, speak with Aurel Bacs, the “vintage” king of watches, or report upon the increasing influence of women in the world of art.

This PRE edition will be rounded off with the latest trends in beauty, design, fashion and lifestyle. I think there will be something for every taste.

Speaking of taste: Dear Charles Blunier’s team, thank you for the new dress you designed for PRE magazine, with the new layout and design – I think it fits perfectly!

With this in mind, I wish you much pleasure, enjoyment and entertainment with the “new” Spring Edition of PRE! Marc A. Huerlimann Editor in Chief

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Francesco J. Ciringione Publisher

ART & CUL TURE 25

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THE YOUNG PICASSO — AN ART EXHIBITION OF SUPERLATIVES The Fondation Beyeler in Riehen has completely transformed their ­ entire museum into two exhibitions of Picasso. In Focus: the Blue and Rose Periods — the early creative years of the artist before he became world famous as one of the founders of Cubism.

Text: NINA MERLI Portrait: MAN RAY (1932)

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“Young PICASSO — Blue and Rose Period” Fondation Beyeler, until 26.5.2019 Information and tickets: fondationbeyeler.com

This top-class Picasso show at the Fondation Beyeler is certain­ ly the highlight of the 2019 art year and will still be on view until the end of May. Never before have so many works of early Picasso – from the so-called Blue and Rose Periods between 1901–1906 – been presented together in Europe, and according to Beyeler, such a cornucopia of his sculptures and paintings probably will never be seen again. It took approximately four years to prepare for this exhibition, which brings together works that are rarely seen in public, such as the masterpiece “La Vie”, last exhibited in Switzerland about 35 years ago. This picture “deals with the formidable themes of human existence and is an incredibly moving painting,” says art historian Isabella Lauder-Frost, who works as an art consultant for Murphy & Partners. According to this Picasso expert, it is “essential for the visitor of this exhibition to remember that here we have the artist, at the age of 20, looking for his artistic identity”.

Nevertheless, “One should not see the two periods as separate oeuvres,” says Isabella Lauder-Frost, “as they flow into each other, soft pinks replace the blue tones, and the focus changes to a plethora of circus figures that are full of joy and hope”.

Four years of preparation and four billion worth of insurance The works of this early creative period have been provided by 41 lenders, including 28 museums from Europe and overseas, and have an insured value of four billion francs. It is the most elaborate and expensive project in the history of the Fondation Beyeler. Special attention should certainly be given to the paintings from private collections as they have rarely been seen in public. “For example, the monumental ‘Fillette à la corbeille fleurie’, an image with immense visual power,” explains Lauder-Frost. Also, an equally exciting story: In 1905, Gertrude and Leo Stein bought the oil painting of the young, naked girl – although at first Gertrude did not like the painting because she found the nude model’s feet disgusting. After Gertrude’s death, the painting changed hands over to Peggy and David Rockefeller, where it lingered for years in their living room. After David Rockefeller’s death, his art collection was auctioned at Christie’s, and among the bidders: the art collector David Nahmad, who bought the picture for 115 million dollars and, as a good friend of Beyeler director Sam Keller, has now lent the painting to the museum in Riehen.

Melancholy, hope and longing A search that began in 1900 when Pablo Picasso, just 19 years old, visited Paris for the first time together with his artist friend Carlos Casagemas. A few months later, when Picasso had returned to Spain, Casagemas took his own life. Picasso processed the death of his beloved friend in the picture “Evocation – The Funeral of Casagemas”. This decisive experience was the trigger for Picasso’s Blue Period, which is marked by grief, pain and the view of the human abyss. His artistic interest at that time applied to the marginal, the drunk and the needy, which he portrays in cool shades of blue. Only when the artist met Fernande Olivier in 1904, his new love and first partner, that his works regained their previous optimism.

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FUERSTENBERG-PORZELLAN.COM

G I N A B E AV E R S « S M O K E Y E Y E T U T O R I A L » , 31 . 0 3 – 0 2 . 0 9 . 2 019 , M O M A . O R G

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America has always been a desireable place. Settlers, gold diggers, ­missionaries and adventurers all lost themselves within its vast expanses.

Even today you can still find areas that radiate this special magic — for example, throughout the Wild West.

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Photos: TEXAS TOURISM, ANNA KAROLINA STOCK

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There are certain places that give rise to

DESERT LANDSCAPE WITH DIVERSE FLORA

meter of altitude the vegetation changes: from

something like wanderlust and the thirst

AND FAUNA

cacti to low level pine trees, then to juniper

for adventure, even if you are not a travel

Although the park with its 3,242 square kilo-

bushes which lead to a dense growth of oaks

lover. As far as rivers go, there are long ones

meters is one of the largest in the USA, there

and pines. “Anyone who imagines a landscape

such as the Amazon and the Rio Grande that

are not too many tourists who come to this cor-

like the Sahara will be surprised by the diver-

trigger travel fever. There is hardly anoth-

ner of the country each year, with only around

sity of the various flora,” says Robert Alvarez,

er river that connects so much with the

400,000 visitors. The UNESCO Biosphere Re-

representative of the Brewster County Tourism

Wild West as the latter. About two-thirds of

serve not only contains large sections of the

Council. After a long spring rain entire fields of

the more than 3,000 kilometers meander

Chihuahua Desert, a rain shadow desert, which

wildflowers are blooming with 250 kilometers

through the state of Texas and form a nat-

with an area of around 453,000 square kilo-

of a winding network of hiking trails.

ural border between the United States and

meters is considered the largest of all North

Mexico. Much of the river is located in the

American deserts, but also the central massif

NIGHT SKY OVER THE LONE STAR STATE

Big Bend National Park and can be explored

of the Chisos Mountains with their slopes be-

Matching its nickname, the “Lone Star State,”

by boat or horse.

coming ever greener as you ascend. With every

Texas, and especially the Big Bend National

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Park, is a unique place to gaze into the stars. If

the mines closed, Terlingua became a ghost

you spend the night in a tent after a long tour

town. It was not until the sixties that hippies,

through the Chihuahua Desert and look up into

artists and adventurous dropouts populated

the night sky, you will understand why the Na-

the area and breathed new life into it. In the

tional Park was designated a “Dark Sky Park”

evening people meet up in the quaint Starlight

in 2012. Far and wide, there is a sparkling sky

Theater, a former cinema that today has be-

with no trace of light pollution. “That’s because

come a saloon. There are hanging ceiling fans

few people make their way to this deserted

and mounted cattle skulls on the walls. The

area,” explains Alvarez. No one ends up here

chipped plaster spreads the “Old Texan” charm

accidentally. The nearest big city is Dallas and

from the good old days of mercury.

its almost an eight-hour drive away.

As lonely as it may be in the ghost

town, once a year Terlingua becomes an inWITH A ROW BOAT TO MEXICO

ternational meeting place: every November

Because of its seclusion, the Big Bend National

more than 10,000 visitors come to the Big

Park is a very special venue. In addition, it is

Bend region to attend the “International Chili

home to the most unusual border crossing in

Cook-off”. What began as a duel between two

the US: Mexico is only five rows across the

chefs in 1967 has over the years blossomed

Rio Grande. The border river is so narrow and

into a fiery cooking duel of world renown. As

shallow that you could even wade through it. A

the mood takes you, Chili con Carne is cooked

fence, patrols by the US Homeland Security or

to the brim and above all, life is celebrated.

long queues at passport control do not exist.

Instead, two nice park rangers take a quick look at our papers before we move on to the rowboat – jokingly calling it the “International Ferry Service”. Arriving on the Mexican shore the skipper, Juan Pérez, collects five dollars and hands us back a tiny ticket for the return trip. From there, the nearest village, Boquillas del Carmen, is merely a ten-minute donkey ride away, simple mud houses line the way, a small medical station, a school, a single switchboard and two restaurants. The villagers have had electricity since 2015, says boatman Pérez proudly, while a Mexican border guard simultaneously stamps entry and exit: “so you do not have to come back this way.”

Nowhere else is the border crossing

between the US and Mexico as straightforward as in the Big Bend National Park. If you want, you can effortlessly cross the border. Nevertheless, there is no trace of illegal immigration, drugs or weapons smuggling. “There is simply no infrastructure, no roads or trans-shipment points that would be needed for a large-scale, illegal business,” explains Pérez. The nearest town is more than 150 kilometers away and hardly accessible on foot. Spanish explorers, who searched the region for mineral resources in the 16th century, soon gave up and baptized it “El Despoblado”, the uninhabited land.

In keeping with the cliché of a typical western film, from time to time a “tumbleweed” of dried plants rolls over the wide unforested plain.

WORLD RENOWNED GHOST TOWN Terlingua is similarly quiet and relaxed, located just outside the National Park. In the 1920s, the thriving mining town still supplied 40 percent of the national mercury revenue, but after

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ART AND CULTURE IN THE MIDDLE OF ­NO­W HERE Similar to ghost towns, artist villages are real tourist magnets, of course depending on how picturesque they are or who lives and works there. The desert town of Marfa is such an artist hotspot and shows the culturally modern side of the Lone Star State. The foundation was created by New York minimalist Donald Judd (sculptor, painter and architect) as he turned the sleepy Marfa into his personal retreat and brought abstract art from progressive New York to the Texan pampas (treeless plains).

Nowadays, the former military site that Judd bought in the early 1970s is the “Chinati Foundation”. In addition to his own works, there are also light installations by minimalist Dan Flavin and two oversized copper circles by the artist Roni Horn.

“To really visit all the artworks in

and around Marfa, you should take one day, better two,” recommends Alvarez. Also, you will need a car. On US Highway 90 at Valentine you will find probably the most photographed art object in the region: “Prada Marfa”, an installation by the Danish-Norwegian artist duo Elmgreen & Dragset, which is a Prada showcase in which you can see the autumn 2005 shoe collection. The fact that thousands of dollars worth of shoes are on display in the middle of nowhere does not only convey a critique of consumerism, but also the absurdity of the exaggerated brand culture. Something more bizarre than a Prada store in the desert is hardly possible.

The research trip for this post was supported

by Travel Texas.

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Watches Spring 2019: Ticking novelties from A. Lange & Sรถhne to Zenith Text: GISBERT L. BRUNNER

Vacheron-Constantin: Traditionnelle TwinBeat 3200T

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The good old mechanical watches are alive and well, and keep on evolving.

This is demon­ strated by new ­factories and innovative materials for measuring our precious time.

MB & F: HM6 Final Edition

There are many different kinds of ‘watch’ people. There are those who do not like to have a timepiece on their wrist and prefer to look at their mobile phone. Others rely on electronics and smart functions. Thirdly, there are plenty of our contemporaries with a pronounced weakness for the traditional mechanisms, their passion is based on nostalgia, the preservation of value and the ability to pass on a good piece to their offspring, and many don’t even care if it is accurate to the split second.

This is precisely the group the luxury watch industry is focusing upon. In the middle of January renowned manufacturers revealed their new watches at the Geneva Watch Fair SIHH and at the end of March, Baselworld will open its doors. The trends for 2019 are the retro look, that is, the return to the good old (watch) days: traditional, innovative and intricate watchmaking, as well as a focus on colors. Blue in all its tones and shades is the new black. In the case of housings, new materials are provided for desirability. Smart managers know that if they offer a variety, they will get something back in return.

250 WATCHES FOR THE 25TH ANNIVERSARY It will be 25 years old in 2019, the iconographic “Lange 1” by A. Lange & Söhne. Reasons for their continued success can be seen not least in the asymmetrically designed dial and the striking large date. For more than 20 years, the manual winding caliber L.901 with two barrels, three days of gear autonomy and a hand-engraved balance cock have made the hearts of sophisticated watch lovers beat faster. 2015 brought the newly developed manufacture caliber L121.1. Nothing changed with the basic facts including the characteristic appearance. However, the large date automatically changes exactly at midnight. Also new, is the balance with variable inertia and a free-swinging coil. Equipped with these mechanisms, the traditional German manufacturer offers 250 copies of a white gold “Lange 1” for its 25th anniversary. The distinctive feature of the birthday edition, amongst others, is in the specially designed hinge base. It pays tribute to Günther Blümlein and Walter Lange, to whom the company owes its successful renaissance and the “Lange 1”. Behind the sapphire crystal is the movement which is hand-engraved and the blue balance cock bearing the number 25.

MAXIMUM TIMEKEEPING, TOTAL TRANSPARENCY Resonance helps Armin Strom’s new ARF17 manufacture caliber reach remarkable precision. Strictly speaking, the cross-oval housing contains two juxtaposed movements, each with a pair of energy storage units, 110 hours of gear autonomy and an unusual 3.5 Hertz balance frequency. The ocillatiing system consists of a balance and balance spring which are connected by a patented, certified resonance clutch spring. This causes a 15 to 20

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percent higher degree of accuracy. With this complex construction, which in total requires 419 mechanical components, two separate and independently adjustable time displays go hand in hand. You can read hours, minutes and the current remaining power reserve. In the middle there is also a 24-hour indicator.

No less extravagant is the cross-oval sapphire case which offers full transparency, measures 59 × 43.4 millimeters including straps and resists water pressure up to five bar.

are beige Super LumiNova luminescent. Incidentally, the chosen typography corresponds to that of the analog counter in the aircraft cockpit. 42 millimeters is the length of the sides of the ceramic housing. Each of the 999 watches comes with two straps: rubber and durable synthetic fabric.

IT DOES NOT GET ANY SLIMMER Added to the complication of the ultra-slim design is the mechanical version of the Bulgari manufactory caliber BVL 288.

The 1.95 millimeter flat movement has a “flying”, that is only a rear, mounted tourbillon. In this construction, no bridge disturbs the view of the filigree rotation. In addition, the ticking mechanic touch automatically winds. Held by three micro-ball bearings, the flywheel moves around the complex movement with 52 hours of gear autonomy. The function of the overlying crown can be preselected by means of a push button on the right-hand side of the case: for winding or positioning the hands. Last but not least, the lightweight of the limited edition of the 50 “Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic Carbon” is also captivating. For a total of only 3.95 millimeters thick and 42 millimeters in length, Bulgari uses a housing and linked band, as the name promises, of multi-layer, high-strength CTP carbon fiber. Through the large, transparent display back, the mechanics are revealed in all their magnificence.

NEW STOPPER FROM LE BRASSUS It’s called 4401 and is the new chronograph movement by Audemars Piguet. The self-winding function is provided by a double-action inertia ball of 22-carat gold mounted with small ceramic balls. A single tension spring lets the balance oscillate at four hertz for about 70 hours. Thus, the integrated time-writer with ratchet and vertical clutch stops exactly to the eighth of a second. The totalisers, lasting up to 30 minutes and 12 hours, lie on a horizontal line from “9” to “3”. Immediate restart without intermediate pause and zero allows for a flyback feature. At “6” the permanent second rotates. Between “4” and “5” you will find the window date. The debut results in the no less impressive new watch line “Code 11.59”. Its round case, available in rosé and white gold, with perforated lugs and octagonal middle section, is intended to make life difficult for product pirates. An emphatically narrow bezel holds the double-curved and anti-reflective sapphire crystal. There is a tachymetric scale on the inner ring.

STOPPER WITH TRADITION In 1904 Louis Cartier created the “Santos” for his friend, the aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. Consequently, it is the wristwatch with the longest uninterrupted history. Thanks to the patented “QuickSwitch” system, the newest generation makes changing straps child’s play. In addition, the length of the linked strap can be easily adjusted by itself with “SmartLink”.

The Geneva watch salon SIHH 2019 brought an addition to the family in the form of the steely “Santos chronograph” with ADLC-coated bezel. Its automatic caliber 1904-CH MC looks back on a more than six-year history. Ratchet wheel control, power-saving friction clutch, a 30-minute and 12-hour counter are among the features of the exclusive movement. Two barrels store power for 48 hours of gear autonomy. Four Hertz balance frequency allow eighth-second stops. The watchmakers need a total of 269 components just for one copy. The technicians have positioned the start/stop button on the left side of the case. The zeroing is done by pressure on the exact opposite crown.

WITH BAUME & MERCIER THROUGH THE YEAR Baume & Mercier offers a small horological perpetual. The new automatic caliber BM13-1975AC-1 carries a perpetual calendar by the experienced specialist Dubois-Dépraz on its front and thus under the dial with a porcelain look. Small hands represent date, day of the week and month. Concentric to the month hand turns a small disc with a black arrow. The same one tells whether it is a year with 365 or, if red, one with 366 days. The light phases of the moon can be read in a window above the “6”. In contrast to the calendar, which theoretically lasts for 80 years without correction, this indication deviates every four years by just one day from the astronomical norm. All settings can be made with the help of a small push button on the side of the classic round rose gold case. Through the display back, the base movement can be seen, with rotor lift, a high-performance escapement made of silicon and five days of gear autonomy. It is responsible for displaying the hours, minutes and seconds as well as the daily update of the calendar movement.

REGULATOR WITH A VIEW Like salt to the sea, the regulator belongs to Chronoswiss, and now for 31 years. The name is reminiscent of precision pendulum clocks with a decentralized hour hand. In 1994, the first “Grand Régulateur” was launched. In the run-up to Baselworld 2019, the family business, now based in Lucerne, is presenting a new version of its “Flying Grand Regulator Skeleton”. Eye-catching qualities not only feature the 44 millimeter steel case, but also the perforated design of the hand-wound Caliber C. 677S. The basis for this is the well-proven manual winding caliber Eta 6498 with a diameter of barely 37 millimeters. Masculine impressions allows for a dynamic coloring. A noteworthy detail is the red stub at the back end of the central minute hand. Together with a small mirror-inverted minute scale, it replaces the indexation that covers the gold-colored hour ring. The edition is limited to 30 copies.

DESIGN IN THE SERVICE OF READABILITY Bell & Ross has been creating functional instrumental looks since its inception. A square case with four striking screws and round dials ensure that the wristwatches of the BR03 line are highly recognizable. This also applies to the new “BR03-92 Bi-Compass”. Here the practiced reduction to analogue representation of hours, minutes and seconds as well as a window date suggest a comparatively simple timepiece. But that is not the case. Impeccable function in all situations requires some effort. In order for the hour disc with a green, noctilucent arrowhead to not touch the dial, it must be light and turn absolutely flat. Behind the automatic caliber BR-302 is concealed a flat Sellita SW-300 with 38 hours of gear autonomy. The minute and second hands

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breathe completely free. Every hour, the duo move 10,800 times in one direction and just as often back. When moving the crown to the hand the vibrating system stops. After 72 hours at the latest, the tension spring of the 255-piece movement needs to be manually wound. At that time, a power reserve indicator at “12” lets you know this. Due to the three-dimensional architecture of the dial, the indications are particularly impressive. As a protective cover, Greubel Forsey uses a white gold case 39.6 millimeters in diameter. On the wrist, the front and back glazed case are 12.21 millimeters. It withstands water pressure up to three bar.

ETHICAL GOLD FOR A MECHANICAL DEVICE 2015 saw the birth of the largely handmade “Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1”. In the octagonal watch case with side portholes is the elaborate tourbillon caliber FB-T.FC. It is a 35.5 millimeter case and eight millimeters thick, with a manual wind movement and traditional chain-scroll system for the most constant driving force over approximately 53 hours. The patented center seconds are accompanied by an exceptionally constructed power reserve indicator. Prior to delivery, each watch which has been assembled from more than 420 components (excluding chain parts), must pass the official chronometer control COSC’s accuracy test. This mechanism brings to life a total of ten copies of the new “Œuvre d’Or” collection. Five watches each are available in white gold with titanium and rose gold lugs combined with black ceramic. The gold used comes from ethical production. A special eye-catcher is the dial made of hand-patinated rose gold.

THE MOON IN FRONT OF YOUR EYES The “Arceau L’heure de la lune” by Hermès is all about the moon phases. To display the northern and southern hemispheres the watchmakers have devised a special mechanism. It shows analogous indications for hour and minute as well as date against a backdrop of a meteorite circle. A full turn takes 59 days or two lunar cycles of 29.5 days each. The mother-of-pearl moons inlaid in stone show artistically designed motifs. The drive for the planetary time, date and moon mechanisms is an exclusive automatic caliber manufactured by Vaucher. The base unit H1837 with self-winding rotor is 3.7 mm flat. It consists of 193 individual parts. Its speed regulator performs 28,800 vibrations per hour.

For one copy of the 4.2-millimeter-thick display module, it requires another 117 components. Hermès makes the protective case with a 43 mm diameter made out of 18-carat white gold.

Scratch-resistant sapphire lenses at the front and back guarantee unalloyed joy. It is water resistant up to three bar pressure.

THE WHOLE DAY IN VIEW You definitely have to get used to reading this new watch from Frédérique Constant. Usually, the hour hand rotates once in twelve hours around its axis. In the “Classics Automatic 24 H”, the rotation takes twice as long. Thus, the owners have the entire day’s run in view. However, the tip of the hour hand is pointing vertically down at 12 noon. The orientation therefore supports a 24-hour dial. This type of time display is by no means new.

For example, they previously used watch brands for scientific or military timepieces. Even pilots and astronauts were also given such indicators. Magic is not connected to to this mechanical device. Supplied by Sellita, the automatic caliber FC-332 with 38 hours of gear autonomy has only a modified pointer movement mechanism. The steel housing with a 43 mm diameter offers protection up to ten bar of water pressure.

THE BLUE LAGOON H. Moser & Cie has long propagated dials in the so-called fumé style. In this regard, the new “Endeavor Center Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon” is particularly striking. Due to the unmistakable appearance of the face, to place the signature in front of the turning centrally positioned hands for hours, minutes and seconds is superfluous. It has been shown that exquisite watchmaking is on the upturn. Behind the transparent case back operates the self-developed caliber HMC 200, which has been manufactured up to the balance and its coil under their own roof. With a diameter of 32 millimeters and a thickness of 5.5 millimeters, the automatic movement is not necessarily one of a delicate, but of a robust representative of its kind. A solid golden rotor tightens the main spring in both directions of rotation. After a full wind, the oeuvre ticks for at least three days with a moderate three hertz.

The choice is yours regarding the housing material. Each of the 50 copies are available in white or pink gold. In either case, the watch case measures 40 mm.

COSMIC TIMEPIECE The word Hingucker applies fully to the “Bridges Cosmos” by Girard-Perregaux. Two imposing globes magically draw the eye.

On the left, in the 48-millimeter housing, a blue-tinted Titan celestial globe reduces the cosmos to a wrist-friendly dimension.

In 23 hours, 58 minutes and 4 seconds, that is, over the course of sidereal time, its axis turns around. For reasons of space, a restriction to the depiction of the stellar constellations of the zodiac is indispensable. At “3” Mother Earth makes her rounds.

The surface bears a laser-engraved world map with recessed oceans and continents in relief. Together with a 24-hour scale positioned below, the illustrious mini-globe serves as a worldtime indicator. In the dark, this cosmic wristwatch is particularly impressive. Hours and minutes are a pair of hands at “12”. “To the south” of the complex manufactured hand-wound caliber GP09320 you are lured into pausing to observe the tourbillon.

All settings are made using recessed controls in the case back.

After being fully wound, there are approximately 60 hours of gear autonomy available. For the cosmic mechanisms 362 components are required.

THE SECOND UNICO “Unico” has christened Hublot’s 2010 launched chronograph caliber HUB 1242. The manufacturer now provides a thinner version of this debut piece. The HUB1280, also with rotor self-winding, comes up with several innovations. The completely redesigned automatic assembly makes a decisive contribution to reducing the thickness from 8.05 to 6.75 millimeters. The technicians also paid a great deal of attention to the time-writing mechanism under the dial. It is easier to mount and to view on the wrist.

Furthermore, four patents relate to an innovative clutch system for connecting the chronograph to the ticking motor. Due to

MAJESTIC VIBRATIONS Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey love aesthetics, mechanical precision and craftsmanship. These maxims are followed by the “Balancier Contemporain” with a 12.6 millimeter Glucydur balance. Thanks to variable inertia, the indispensable coil can

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WATCHES & JEWELLERY Baume & Mercier: Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar 10470

Girard-Perregaux: Bridges Cosmos Soldat

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its evolution, the number of components has climbed from 330 to 354. What remains are 30 millimeters in diameter, three days of autonomy and four Hertz balance frequencies. The debut of the new movement, among the other innovations, takes center stage in the “Big Bang Unico Titanium White”. With a flattering appearance and a mere 42 millimeters in diameter, this titanium-white, synthetic resin timepiece also fits feminine wrists.

The complicated movement includes the battle ax-like platinum flywheel consisting of 475 components. In 2019, the time-travel of this wristwatch with dimensions of 51 × 50 × 22.7 millimeters will be irrevocably complete. Exactly eight copies in steel of the “HM6 Final Edition” will be produced.

EVERLASTING PARTNERSHIP When Minerva joined Montblanc, the 2007 calendar showed the design heritage of the manufactory, founded in 1858, which reflects the Montblanc “Heritage” line. One of the highlights of the collection is a wristwatch with a newly developed calendar movement. You do not have to correct it until the end of February 2100. Hands represent the date, day of the week, month and leap year cycle. In addition, there is a moon phase indication above the “6”. The adjustment after disuse occurs with the help of the crown. Operating errors are counteracted by a sophisticated protective device. Also uncommon is a time zone capacity with an additional, independently adjustable hour hand and 24-hour display. The ticking base for the assembled 378 parts of the MB 29.22 is the automatic caliber 1904 by Cartier.

It has two barrels, 48 hours of gear autonomy and four hertz balance frequency. The 40-millimeter see though case back is water resistant up to five bar. Before leaving the factory, each Heritage Perpetual Calendar must complete a 500-hour quality and accuracy check.

PERPETUAL FOR PILOTS IWC’s expertise in aviation watches goes back more than 80 years. In this context, the good old “Spitfire” will be honoured in 2019. “The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire” is named after the legendary British fighter plane. On your wrist you find this expressive bolide with a 46.2 millimeters large bronze case. Inside the watch case, with titanium base and six bar pressure density, is revealed the skill of the in-house mechanics in the form of the caliber 52615. When the self-winding rotor with Pellaton rectifier has filled the two barrels, the clock runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour for seven days. So that pilots do not get into a spin, a power reserve indicator lets you know the respective energy supply. The calendar, which will last until 2100, shows the date, day of the week, month and year. Almost perpetual accuracy characterizes the display of the moon phases over both hemispheres. It lasts 577.5 years. For all indications, including of course, hours, minutes and seconds, aviation enthusiasts look through a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. All in all, the Schaffhausen manufacturer produced 250 copies.

SUBMERGED WITH ORIS Better safe than sorry. According to this motto, the DLC-coated titanium case of the Oris “Dive Control Limited Edition Chronograph” withstands the pressure of the wet element up to ten bar, converted, 1000 meters diving depth. Underwater readability plays an important role. The same is guaranteed by the unmistakable indexing on the dark dial, expressive hands and the generous use of Super LumiNova luminescent material. So that nothing happens when ascending from great depths, there is a helium valve on the left side of the case. Of course, the dive time of the rotating bezel, with ceramic inlay, can only be turned counterclockwise. Inadvertent adjustment is counteracted by a patented security system. In addition to the case bottom and the crown, the push buttons for operating the automatic chronograph are also bolted to the case. The built-in caliber Oris 774 is the proven SW 500 from Sellita. The delivery of only 500 copies takes place in a waterproof box. In addition to an additional rubber strap, it also contains the necessary tool for changing straps.

SPHERICAL ROTATION AND MORE It was no coincidence that it takes its name from the “Gyrotourbillon 1” introduced in 2004. Spherical movements allow two ultra-light bogies to balance the negative effects of Earth’s gravity in virtually every position on the watch. But the new “Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel”, by Jaeger-LeCoultre, can do a lot more. The hand-wound caliber 184 with 50 hours of gear autonomy can be found in the 43-millimeter white gold case. The technicians have succeeded in considerably reducing the dimensions of the bogies for a “bella figura” (beautiful shape) on your wrist. A constant-force drive counteracts the continuously decreasing torque of the energy store. In addition, the range of complications includes, use of a crown; and a perpetual, adjustable calendar with date, weekday, month and year. At the press of a button, the minute repeater jumps into action. The presentation of the quarter of the hour takes place with the sound of London’s famous Big Ben. Despite all of the mechanical complexities the white gold case’s diameter is only 43 millimeters.

RETROGRADE MEANS DISENGAGING Much to discover is the guilloche dial of the new “Toric Quantième Perpétuel Retrograde Slate” by Parmigiani Fleurier.

Three of the centrally positioned hands represent the hours, minutes, and seconds. The fourth, with a red crescent-shaped end, indicates the date. Day by day it gradually wanders from left to right. At the end of the month, no matter how long, it automatically jumps back to the “1”. Consequently, the calendar of the 5.5 mm flat automatic caliber PF317 with 50 hours of gear autonomy can be described as “perpetual”. Two rectangular windows show the days of the week and months. The round display below “12” applies to the leap year cycle. The indication of the light phases of the moon stays over both hemispheres of the globe. Only 122 years later, the Aventurine-Quartz disk

COMPLEX TIME MACHINE When MB & F released the “Horological Machine No. 6” into the chronometric universe, the calendar displayed 2014. The design of the HM6 with the nickname “Space Pirate” is designed to withstand impacts of several G, strong acceleration and deceleration, dangerous radiation and extreme temperature differences.

On the front, there are spherical displays for the indication of hours and minutes. Similar “turbines” on the back regulate the speed of the winding rotor on the bottom. The “flying” tourbillon is perched at the top. With the help of the left mounted crown, a two-piece dome can protectively arch over the delicate turning.

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deviates from the astronomical norm by a whole day. Parmigiani embraces the mechanics of 414 components with a 42.5 mm red gold case.

Automobile design elements are taken for granted in the skeletonized design. At the top, the balance of the self-developed RD 630 automatic caliber assembled from 233 components performs 28,800 vibrations per hour. For optical reasons, the oscillations occur at an angle of a twelve degree arc. The Geneva stamp guarantees the adherence to exactly defined quality criteria including a maximum deviation of one minute per week. For the 45-millimeter case, titanium and rubber are used. You can dive with it up to 50 meters. On the inside of the rubber strap, with gray Alcantara inlay, the profile of the Pirelli “P Zero Trofeo R” tire counteracts sweat-induced aquaplaning.

PLATEAU ON THE WRIST The Altiplano from Peru to Chile serves Piaget as the patron goddess for a line of watches launched in 1998. Creative restraint also applies to the current “Altiplano” generation. One of the latest models also brings a piece of heaven to your wrist in the 40-millimeter rose gold model, whose hands rotate for hours and minutes in front of a gray meteorite dial with rose-gold line markers. A representative of the 120xP caliber family presented in 2010 serves as a time-saving drive. Specifically, it is three-millimeter thin 1203P with 29.9 millimeters in diameter, has a factory integrated gold rotor, 44 hours of gear autonomy, three Hertz balance frequency and window date. Watchmakers need 209 components for one copy. After 300 copies, the production of this wristwatch ends.

MECHANIC SOUL MADE OF CARBON At TAG Heuer, years of research and development have led to a completely new balance spring. It is not made of metal or silicon, but of an innovative carbon composite material. Specifically, they are carbon nanotubes, i.e. small hollow bodies of pure carbon with a diameter of less than 1 / 10,000th of a millimeter.

Their modulus of elasticity is up to five, the tensile strength 15 which is much higher than steel. Added to this is its extremely low density. These properties as well as resistance to magnetic fields, temperature fluctuations and violent impacts make the material virtually predestined for the production of patented CNTMC (Carbon Nano Tubes Matrix Composite) balance springs. The first series products are inspired by the “Carrera Caliber Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph”. Its automatic caliber 02T measures 31 millimeters. At “6”, the tourbillon cage made of yellow anodized aluminum rotates 360 degrees every minute. Inside, the eccentric balance with variable inertia made of the same material performs 28,800 vibrations per hour. A heavy metal ball bearing rotor biases the tension spring in one direction of rotation. The energy supply is sufficient for 65 hours of gear autonomy. Prior to installation in the 45 mm titanium case with black PVD coating, each movement must prove its accuracy at the Chronometerprüfstelle COSC. The bezel of the up to ten bar waterproof case is made of carbon.

TRIBUTE TO A GREAT DESIGNER Titanium, which was first used by Ferdinand-Alexander Porsche in 1980 for wrist watch cases, will also be used by Porsche Design in 2019. In the context of the presentation of the new 911, the “911 Chronograph Timeless Machine Limited Edition” is available. Its design takes on the streamlined shape of a powerful racing car. Lightweight construction and ergonomics are a matter of course. The three hands for the stop function are completely red or red tipped. The permanent second at “9” is replaced by a smart function display. The words “Timeless Machine” move through the circle segment while the movement is running. The reference to the car and the limitation of this model is expressed by the hourly totalizer at “6”. If you look closely, you will discover the number 11 as well as the number 9. Porsche Design makes no compromises when it comes to the built-in movement. It is the Valjoux 7750, which has proven itself millions of times over, and which brought life to the first Porsche design chronograph in 1973.

FROM FREAKS FOR FREAKS Ulysse Nardin connects back to the revolutionary “freak” carousel of 2001 with the new “Freak X”, a slimmed down and much cheaper version. The diameter of the titanium case with blue DLC coating has shrunk from 45 to 43 millimeters. In contrast to the original model with manual winding through the rotation of the bottom and bezel-hand positions, the operation is now entirely is done with the crown. What has remained is the basic construction of the manual wind movement with 72 hours of gear autonomy. Its baguette-shaped component with oscillating system and the now classic lever escapement revolves around itself once per hour. The luminescent tip points to the minutes. The ultra-light, three-hertz oscillating silicon balance is particularly innovative. Its outer mass elements and the four regulating eccentrics are made of nickel. Completely new are stabilizing micro-blades. The indicator element for the hours is more compact. Front and rear, the up to five bar waterproof case is scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

TICKING SWEETS The colorful world of sugar sweets brings Richard Mille to the wrist. Each of the ten models comes in an edition of 30 copies to the market. Connoisseurs glance through a magnifying glass to recognize the art of watchmaking at a high level and its creative refinements. Based on the successful models RM 07-03, RM 16-01 and RM 37-01, they are enriched by a palette of a total of 60 colors. Art director Cécile Guenat is responsible for the various designs. His “Sweets Collection” includes four models with two-tone ceramic casings and decorative elements in enamel or black chromed titanium. They are called “RM 07-03 Cupcake”, “RM 07-03 Marshmallow”, “RM 37-01 Sucette” and “RM 16-01 Réglisse”. The so-called “fruit line” meets six different tastes: lemon, strawberry, blueberry, lychee, kiwi and cherry. If you do not find anything here, it’s your own fault, provided that your wallet is sufficiently filled with cash.

WATCH FOR THE CAR Roger Dubuis cooperates with Lamborghini. For its current collection, the watchmaker has targeted the “Huracán”. Accordingly, the timepiece is also called “Excalibur Huracán Performante”.

SLOW OR FAST, JUST AS YOU LIKE “Traditional Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar” is christened as Vacheron Constantin’s latest creation. As the name suggests, this

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Cartier

A. Lange & Söhne

Bell & Ross

Chronoswiss

Hublot

IWC

H.Moser & Cie.

Parmigiani

Piaget

Roger Dubuis

Ulysse Nardin

Zenith

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platinum wristwatch has a calendar that does not require manual correction until 2100. This complication is helpful, but nothing horologically unusual. However, its outstanding character is its style of gear shift in caliber 3610. Alternatively, the manual wind movement assembled from 480 parts works quickly or slowly.

The smaller duo of balance and balance spring oscillates on the wrist with four Hertz. This high frequency provides high precision for about four days. For standby mode when stored, press the pushbutton at “8”. The complex mechanism shifts down about four gears via a differential gearbox, and the larger gear regulator immediately starts working. According to the motto “that which runs long, does so slowly,” it oscillates with only 1.2 Hertz. At this snail’s pace, the microcosm lasted for a good 70 days. Nevertheless, it continues the power-saving calender mechanism punctually at midnight. However, in the energy-saving mode this exquisite Geneva seal timepiece should lie flat.

“EL PRIMERO” IS CELEBRATING ITS BIRTHDAY “El Primero” means nothing other than “The First”. Zenith presented it in 1969 as the world’s first chronograph with ball bearing rotor, ratchet wheel control, horizontal clutch and five Hertz balance frequency. Since then, it has been the movement from that time that has become indispensable. Its 50th birthday brings lovers a sumptuous case, filled with three timekeepers. One of them is a steel reissue of the first “El Primero” with a multicolored dial. Furthermore, there is the COSC-certified “Chronomaster El Primero” with fundamentally identical, but a technically optimized caliber 3600 and steel housing. The third one, in titanium, is ticking with two frequencies: five and fifty hertz. The slower balance is responsible for the time display; the faster one allows stops to the hundredth of a second. This watch is called “El Primero 21”. There is also room for a fourth piece with thousandths of a second stopping accuracy, which Zenith will introduce within the next few years and will then be available as an option. Under the hinged lid there is still a kind of watchmaker’s workbench with lamp and magnifying glass. A small tool clamps the tension spring of the hand-wound movement provided as an showpiece.

A. Lange & Söhne: Lange 1

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MOTION Text: HELENA UGRENOVIC Photo: OCEAN INDIPENDENCE

Within fourteen years after Nicolas Dean and Peter Hürzeler jointly hoisted the sail in 2005, the most powerful yacht charter management was created, with the world’s largest luxury charter fleet, including 6 international branches: Ocean Independence.

Freedom, adventure, luxury and eternity.

As sparkling as the crest of a gentle wave or an iced Dom Pérignon.

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team that has more experience and expertise in the maritime domain than any other brokerage firm, forming an efficient and dynamic global network with 16 offices around the globe and 26 nationalities. For a delightful ship to be led by joyful personnel, selecting the right crew is a key concern of management, and Ocean Independence recruits their yacht crews with the utmost care.

Only highly motivated and exceptionally capable captains and crews meet the highest standards of the Ocean Independence Management Quality Seal. They have also developed a dedicated yacht etiquette program to meet the high expectations of a super yacht crew. It is an unprecedented concept, a condensed and tailor-made course, held aboard a super yacht and with Hanspeter Vochezer, president of the Swiss Butler Association. A guarantor that the crew offers the highest level of service after this specialist training and passengers experience comfort and professionalism at the highest level.

An experienced yacht broker finds his destiny in Brighton a few decades ago and sells his first yacht at just 19 and a former captain of big motor gliders who later founds Ocean Cruise and remains faithful to his love of the sea and ships are together joining forces to create synergies and set up a charter company. They have integrated more charter agencies over the years and the 100th Central Agency yacht in 2010, opened offices in Mumbai, Malta, the US and Auckland to name a few, and are renting and selling super yachts, and whoosh: this is now the largest luxury charter company in the world.

Yachting the seas of the earth, the money is flowing, the reputation precedes them, and all are happy. A happy family. This would be the short version. The (too) simple short version. The success of the luxury yachting empire is made up of an infinite number of components that are interlinked, intertwined and worked out to the smallest detail. The goal of the founding fathers Dean and Hürzeler as well as their teams is at the same time a passion: for charter guests or buyers to not only have a tailor-made charter experience on a extravagant yacht, but to provide incomparable competence and ultimate yachting lifestyle in the most beautiful spots of the world. Incidentally, no yacht broker is more successful in the German-speaking market than Ocean Independence.

AND THE WINNER IS – “MIMI LA SARDINE” It is the latest addition to the charter fleet, which has been put into the water in October 2018 and in the summer of 2019 will set sail for the first time with paying guests. The 33-meter motor yacht of Cantiere delle Marche offers space for up to 12 guests with five double cabins. The interior design blends seamlessly into three decks with several lounge areas and a warm pool on the sun deck. On January 27, 2019, the “MIMI LA SARDINE” charter yacht was awarded the “International Design and Innovation Award” for the year 2019 at the “Super Yacht Design Symposium” in Cortina, Italy.

BEHIND THE SCENES They are aesthetic, graceful, fascinating and sexy, some a little smaller, some more dominant, some simpler, some more pompous and ostentatious. Each one of them is impressive and awaken longing. Boarding, you throw yourself into one of the expansive leather armchairs, choose culinary delicacies from a silver platter, feel the wind in your hair and the salt on your skin, watch the glitter of the waves, experience new impressions with every meter of passing water, the evenings caressed by perfectly designed lighting and under the starry sky in the middle of nowhere, with friends to celebrate life.

Freedom to feel. To be one with the five elements. Water, air, earth (from a distance), the fire of passion and a breathtaking yacht lifestyle that is unique and incomparable.

However, until the anchors are weighed, the engine is cranked and yacht lifestyle begins, whether as a guest or as a buyer, an entire crew of professionals work perfectly with each other like gears of a chronograph. Ocean Independence offers a holistic all-round service, distributes, manages, repairs and builds super yachts. The highest level of service consists of a

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MO TION H U B L O T. C O M

BENTLEYMOTORS.COM

THOMBROWNE.COM

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Eric Guillemain was born in Morocco.

He lived in Paris until 2002, before moving to New York. There he worked closely together with the famous photographer Peter ­Lindbergh. Since then, Eric has been one of the most sought after photographers in the New York fashion scene. The French photographer loves to travel the world in order to photograph the most beautiful women and the most interesting personalities.

His focus is to portray people naturally and authentically, to show as much emotion and authenticity as possible. Eric Guillemain’s work is distinctive, honest, challenging and connects with the spirit of our time.

ERIC GUILLEMAIN REPRESENTED BY DS PHOTOGRAPHERS

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ERIC GUILLEMAIN

Next page: JENNIFER L AWRENCE Dior

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Left: DIANE KRUGER/NORMAN REEDUS GQ Italy

Right: LOU DOILLON Marie Claire

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FASHION Previous page: CHIHARU Vogue Japan

Left: KERI RUSSELL Malibu Magazine

Right: VANESSA PARADIS VS Magazine

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Left: PHOEBE TONKIN Harper Ì“ s Bazaar Australia

Right: NOEMIE LENOIR GQ

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total look MAX MARA

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FASHION The WEEKEND story was photographed

by Patrick Hellmann Schlosshotel in Berlin.

PHOTOGRAPHY Suzy Holtgrave ST YLING Davor Jelušić ST YLIST ASSISTANT Jade Sheils MODEL Linde Dericks @Paparazzi Model Management

HAIR & MAKE-UP Melanie Hoppe PRODUCTION Snesha Bloom @Call List Agency Zurich

WEEKEND

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Beauty Doctor Colette Camenisch reveals the most ­exciting trends, tips and ­therapies from the field of ­beauty practice. She receives us in her stylish, spacious rooms in the heart of Zurich, on Beethovenstrasse 9.

Everything is in soft colors, harmony prevails. We speak today about skin, an even complexion and fresh appearance.

Text: BEATRICE SCHÖNHAUS Photo: MARTIN SWEERS, SVEN GERMANN (PORTRAIT)

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DR. MED. COLETTE CARMEN CAMENISCH She studied at the University of Zurich and did her doctorate as a specialist in general surgery. In 2008 she moved to Stockholm, and in 2011 returned as senior physician of plastic, reconstructive and aesthetic surgery in the Cantonal Hospital Thurgau. Between 2012 and 2017, Dr. Colette C. Camenisch was a specialist in plastic surgery and a partner in the Pyramid Clinic in Zurich. In addition to breast and intimate surgery, since April 2017 she has been a senior physician at the Beethovenclinic Zurich, and in Switzerland in general, a leader in aesthetic-surgical facial rejuvenation.

Since 2018 there is also a Dr. med. Colette C. Camenisch high-quality care line, the Cosmetic Cell Concept. colette-camenisch.com

BEAUTY & WELLBEING

The spirit of this practice can be felt immediately: here, women (and men) should feel comfortable, professionally well looked after and understood. Entering the bathroom, everything is confirmed: pure accessories and care products makes you passionate about beauty. Dr. Colette Camenisch likes people. “I do not want to turn people into identical Barbie dolls, such as the impression you sometimes get with the role models found on Instagram (à la Kim Kardashian).

I also do not want the result to look artificial and contrived.

My personal approach is about making the people who come to me look fresher and more radiant.”

At the moment, 90 percent of her customers are women and 10 percent men, though the trend is increasing. What is the most important thing to consider when deciding to visit a cosmetic surgeon? “That you definitely turn to a specialist with appropriate training. This is very important because the substances that are involved here must be used by a doctor!

It’s not just about appearance, but also about health. In addition: it is crucial that you think carefully about what you want, and then get detailed advice. Usually people have a lot of questions, such as: When can I return and resume my social obligations? When can I return to work? Can anyone notice anything from the outside? What is possible, what is the procedure, what can I expect and what not, how often does the treatment have to be repeated and how much does it cost?”

Dr. Colette Camenisch provides precise information, can give you detailed advice and perhaps also advise you against doing something. “It is important that the expecta-

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tions regarding the result remain realistic, so that you can really rejoice and feel much fresher after the treatment.”

What is the newest and most exclusive treatment that you currently have in your practice? “That’s a treatment utilizing your own blood. That sounds surprising at first, but it brings great results. Your own blood, which is taken by the doctor, is processed into a serum (in technical terms this is called Exokine-Therapie®), so that it is cell-free, free of coagulating factors and additive substances. This is unlike other, similar procedures. When this is injected under the skin the quality of the skin gradually improves and the complexion appears smoother with the effect lasting 9–12 months depending upon the condition of your skin. You will look fresher, younger, and healthier without anyone realizing exactly what has been done.”

Who is the target audience of Dr. med. Camenisch?

“People from 35 to about 60 who come from all areas of life: personalities from business, politics, sometimes even celebrities or mothers with their daughters.” What are the initial costs that you should expect? “That depends on your expectations, skin condition, hormones and general lifestyle.

The cost ranges from 3,000 Swiss francs and up.”

Can one also prepare for such a treatment? “Yes, one’s lifestyle is important. It is best not to smoke; to drink plenty of water; have a high protein diet, but low in fat, with ideally a lot of steamed vegetables; not to eat too many carbohydrates; and do some regular exercise (3–5 hours a week, for example).

In short: to be in optimal condition so the result is even more beautiful.

LI VING

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ST. MORITZ IN WINTER: A DEEP SNOW ROMANCE

Living in Luxury with Maura Wasescha

Text and photo: MAURA WASESCHA

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My view right now? Nothing but the bright blue sky over St. Moritz – not a single cloud in sight. Outside is 120 cm of fresh snow, and on days like this, I realize once again how stunningly beautiful this valley is. Of course, even now in the middle of winter, when St. Moritz reaches top form and depending on your taste, you can either show what you have in the village – or on the ski slope show what a perfect downhill looks like.

Days like these also delight me because I know that dozens of my customers are content to cuddle up in their chalet, villa or apartment in St. Moritz or Suvretta and enjoy how wonderful it is to be at home. It takes a lot of time, commitment and passion until I find the perfect place for my sophisticated customers. I am proud that in the four decades I have been working in this business, I have really learned something: to listen well.

Only in this way can I find out what my customers really want – and need. It is not always so easy to formulate, which is why I need a lot of flair for my work. There are claims that at this price level we no longer have to talk things over: 40 years ago, when I started, the question was, “Does the kitchen have an oven?”

30 years ago: “Does the kitchen have a dishwasher?” Today, my customers ask, “Is it fun? A swimming pool? A home cinema?”

Expectations have risen; also regarding the individual residences. My portfolio is as exclusive as my clients, so in 2019 I have decided to work even more selectively and “only” rent and sell 40 properties in Switzerland; another 20 are added abroad. Only in this way can I offer the highest quality. On working days, I am often available to my customers for 14 hours. That’s why it’s so important to me that I can regularly recharge my batteries. Almost nowhere is this more enjoyable than here in St. Moritz! A winter

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walk through the pine forests is enough for me; without mobile phone, without headphones. Only then can I hear the twittering of the birds and the sound of the wind while switching off properly.

And that is real luxury for me.

The successful real estate agent Maura Wasescha draws on 40 years of professional experience and is considered the “best networked” in the field of luxury real estate. In her new column for PRE, the native of Italy regularly provides insight into her varied everyday life, tracks tendencies and trends in the global market for high-end residential properties and shares her favorite discoveries; whether in her adopted home of St. Moritz or on one of her many trips around the world. Her next destination: Phuket.

More about her current “Luxury Properties for Rent and Sale” at maurawasescha.com

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ZURICH A GASTRONOMIC JOURNEY THROUGH THE CITY Text: INA RESIAK

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You do not know me. Although I like to be a guest in many restaurants, bars and cafes, the restaurateurs do not know what I am really doing. I analyze and rate them. Why do I do that? In order to make really good recommendations to my friends and business partners that go beyond “You can go to Kaufleuten”.

Why? Because I know more about food and drink than I would like. But one thing at a time. If you open a restaurant in Zurich, you must know the latest trends, a brasserie for vegans, Thai food with local ingredients or a chef who can conjure up a perfectly roasted steak with embers and ashes. Proper maturation of the meat included. Zurich is not necessarily a trendsetter in terms of culinary highlights, but the small town on the Limmat is smart, it waits and then lets new places grow out of the ground like mushrooms. So it turns out that a pioneer such as the trendy “regionality”, is soon followed by an armada of new eateries.

That makes it even difficult for connoisseurs like me to keep track. Let’s get started, for example, by following my tips below.

BALTHO KITCHEN & BAR This restaurant and bar is dedicated to St. Bartholomew. A meeting place for foodies, neighborhood residents, tourists and suits in the middle of Zurich, who enjoy their food and drink in a cosmopolitan atmosphere. The kitchen philosophy is: timeless classics, regional and seasonal, characterized by a pinch of internationality throughout the entire day: morning, noon and evening. So it is not surprising that pork, beef, veal and chicken are labeled with their country of origin “Switzerland”.

That’s why I opted for Rindsbäggli braised in Pino noir, potato and celery mousseline with cabbage and barberries. A glass of Pinot noir Schiterberger Himmelsleiterli by Landolt Weine is perfect for this. It is considered the flagship of Zurich wines. The concept in the “Baltho” is consistent, and on leaving the premises, the bartender was enticed into posh small talk about gin.

Gianni Vergani once said to me: “Italian wines are to be drunk, not collected. Otherwise, the same bottles would go around the world, and nobody would have drunk them.”

PARKHUUS How right Gianni Vergani was, and this saying leads me to the restaurant “Parkhuus”, where local ingredients naturally combine with modern elements. Frank Widmer, Executive Chef, is a master of the creative alienation of common cuisine . What at times sounds like tradition and as modest as “Swiss housesmoked char, mesclun (extra-fine leafy lettuce), fermented chanterelles, gin, tree nuts, red wine vinegar and lemon jelly” turns out to be a complex, exciting dish of the highest standard. Creative, new Swiss cuisine having a cosmopolitan and elegant ambience with panoramic windows and in proximity to the Paradeplatz. “We work with nature, not against it,” says Frank Widmer.

BAUERNSCHÄNKE What do I love so much about my job? The lovers of details and quality fanatics, as met in the “Bauernschänke”. Diem.

Mlinarevic. Schindler. The 3 musketeers, who you should remember ultimately rely on a modern, tasty kitchen with a slight tendency towards international flair. Nenad, Valentin and I met on a cold, windy Wednesday in January. We were at the “Stammtisch”, the regular’s table which was set, just to the left

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faces?”, he opens his phone contacts and shows me the number 6,999. That makes me wonder about the man, who seems to have an elephant memory and who knows so many people without electronic support. I also like his kitchen concept: “The most important thing in a eatery is the food, basta!”

Being conservative works very well in Zurich, so does veal Wiener schnitzel, beef fillet Stroganoff, Dorade royal with boiled potatoes and having avocado and carrot salad on the menu. The kitchen conveys a sense of joy, casual pleasure that you should share with others.

“I treat my guests the way I would like to be treated myself.” – Seigi Sterkoudis.

of the entrance. Purists. Plates, water and wine glasses. Napkin.

Cutlery. A large window gives me a view of the alley “Rindermarkt”. The concept of local ingredients and sophisticated small dishes to share connects with the current zeitgeist and arouses my appetite. Nenad orders for us:

Potato soup, leek, nut butter.

Pot roast ravioli, sage butter.

Fried chicken thigh, pumpkin herb salsa and

Stewed beets, my favorite by the way.

The presentation by the service staff is pleasant, refreshing and joyfully offered. The teams’ good spirit shines upon the whole restaurant. The dishes have the scent of rich spices, perfect for my sense of smell. We taste the dishes, philosophize about the preparation and the inspiration for the dishes, and Nenad says with satisfaction: “One should not see the effort but only taste it.” With that I can only agree.

Tip: If you are very enthusiastic about gastronomy and appreciate true hospitality, quickly order one, two or more tickets for the culinary event in May 2019 in Zurich, with an after dinner party at the Widder Hotel. www.menu1-6.com RAZZIA The team works hard to make Razzia a gastronomic gem in the 8th district. The “Razzia” skilfully combines travel, food, drink and lifestyle in a “Great Gatsby” atmosphere with the much-traveled giraffe Zarafa. The menu is full of classics as well as seasonal creations of meat, fish and poultry, as well as vegetarian dishes complementing the fusion cuisine. The spectacular ambience of the walk-in wine cabinet is a dream come true of every wine lover. Stay inside and taste would be my motto, but I should dedicate myself to the dish that was served to me in the romantic backyard garden. With a plate of Spaghetti Vongole and a glass of Grüner Veltliner Bachgarten

by F.X. Pichler, I consider my conclusion and marvel at the twilight: 100 points for an unforgettable experience.

Tip: A visit is worthwhile in the new café: juice, breakfast, lunch, cake and a cocktail bar in Zurich Seefeld. Because what rules here: cheerful ease.

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FLAVOURS In Jan E. Brucker we again find such a traditionalist. With the “AuGust” on Rennweg, he brought back varied, tasty Zurich gastronomic culture. He honours the guild of butchers. In a casual brasserie ambience with black and white colored tiles on the wall, the chef pampers his guests with down-to-earth meat and sausage specialties, refined with crispy-fresh market vegetables and seasonal ingredients from the region. Busy people can take home the delicacies thanks to integrated street sales.

Regionality for the home. Amen.

But the Bruckers, Jan & Regula, have also been preparing for bigger things and offer guests a sense revelation based on a spice guide, namely in the “Widder Bar & Kitchen” (WB & K). It is the heart of the Widder Hotel, which belongs to the group “The Living Circle”, and cleverly combines the city’s history with the modern flair of design and culinary art. Also from the region is the executive chef Tino Staub. His concept art is called “mixing” but might be better described by the catch phrase “food pairing”. The restaurant is a stage for crossover treasures, and so on my plates, which were placed at intervals: Swiss duck with mushroom tartare, seabream ceviche and king prawns with black pepper from Cambodia. In addition, I order a “Prelude Royal” mixed in the in-house bar. All this taken together is an impressive surprise. Imitation allowed.

RESTAURANT KAUFLEUTEN Leaving gastronomic institutions untouched is probably the best advice the “Kaufleuten” crew has taken from days gone by. The Kaufleuten restaurant is as sacred to the people of Zurich as other time-honored institutions in Zurich. Therefore, ordinary people like me and celebrities alike appreciate the cosmopolitan-laid-back atmosphere which is always decorated with fresh floral arrangements and has a homey touch. Seigi and Steli Sterkoudis are responsible for the resurrection of this place. Thank God! Seigi, who is always called by his first name, I had the pleasure to meet one fine evening in the wine cellar of Vini Vergani. In a good mood (who is not, if there is pasta à Tavola), he wears a distinctive beard, is massively warm, congenial and has tattoos that describe his life. It’s nothing new that a culinary establishment needs a face to it.

He loves to be in this place and pass on his passion and joy to both staff and guests alike. He definitely has it, Seigi. When I ask him the question: “How many names can you assign to

PIC CHIC Because I still did not have enough of food concepts that day, I trudge over a few streets into the “Pic Chic”. Hardly entering the market hall all senses are already animated. A mural over the bar

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adds extra charm to the large space. Right next door, lovingly and down to the smallest detail, hot dogs are served. If you follow the corridor along the the shop window, you can choose between delicious sweets from the Péclard in the Schober Patisserie, fresh sandwiches and salads from the La Sandwicherie de Miami, and finally the colorful and healthy juices or oriental mezze from Fruitmix. A new trick by an old acquaintance: Michel Péclard.

In “Pic Chic”, Smith & Smith has set up a slightly hidden wine cellar and bar. Finally, a new meeting place for an after-work drink. The versatile, delicacies-inspired food is rounded off with freshly rolled sushi from the conveyor belt provided by the “Chedi” Hotel in Andermatt. So many regions can not be grasped. It looks so delicious and I cannot resist a “Kiss my Egg” – a bowl of salmon, rice and a poached egg. “Legger”. The multi-talented Péclard operates 14 businesses, nine of them on Lake Zurich. He also runs the traditional pastry shop Schober.

What inspires me about Michel is that he is headstrong and very original, a man of action, and hopefully he remains like that.

VINI VERGANI, THE 5TH GENERATION Tonight I still expect guests, so I drive past the wine house Vergani and select a wine accompaniment for the menu which is just in my head. With the Vergani family you feel at home and somehow part of the family, even if you are visiting the Mediterranean Enotheque in district 3 for the first time. Here you will find, in addition to very good company, the best wines from all regions of Italy, a significant selection of Italian Grappas and also a lot of personal advice. I choose L’Anima di Vergani. It was filled with Amarone, intense and at the same time lovely.

Structurally rich but elegant on the palate. With this wine, I take a piece of their family spirit home with me and later pour it into my friends’ glasses.

JELMOLI FOOD MARKET A market walk in a department store is possible. The name Jelmoli “The House of Brands” stands for the famous premium department store, at its best address in Zurich, and thus generally for a unique shopping experience. In the food market you will find delicacies from the region and from all around the world. My highlight, as a cheese lover, the first cheese humidor built by Fredy Bieri in Switzerland, is located in the basement of the department store and calls out to be admired. I buy two of the approximately 150 types of cheeses directly from the ripening room ... The food department has been restructured, and thanks, into individually thematic areas, such as the Mediterranean area with Italian delicacies and a new wine world, everything now has a culinary structure. Because I love flowers so much, I stroll down to Alfons’ flower market in the basement and buy a customized, modern bouquet for my home made out of white Callas and a rich green Xanadu leaf. “A flower is not complete without a leaf.” – Tao-shan.

SERI For Seri Wada, craftsmanship is his guiding principle. The bread maker focuses on baguettes, croissants and pains au chocolat, supplying many cafes in and around Zurich.

No wonder that Michel Péclard got wind of it and offered him his oven at the “Milch bar” at Paradeplatz. A baguette quickly lands in my shopping basket, and I will offer it as a welcome to my guests along with Prosciutto di Parma, green olives and wine.

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MAME Properly trained and highly decorated baristas can be found in Zurich in the “Mame” on Josefstrasse in Seefeld. Too often espresso is not treated with the respect it deserves. The art of the Barista is to optimally combine all the aspects of espresso preparation to deliver reproducible espressos. “The best coffee is the one that tastes good.”

Euphoric and in a good mood after all the great experiences and encounters in Zurich, I arrive home and open the Amarone first and foremost. My friends will love this slightly astringent but extremely concentrated, almost creamy red wine. A direct hit.

I must confess, I lied to you earlier when I said that my dinner menu was only in my head. I’m a preparation freak and have already cooked four, 250 gram rumpsteaks in a vacuum bag, in a 56 degree water bath for one hour. Remove the steaks from the bag, pat dry. Wash three branches of rosemary and a few stalks of thyme and shake dry. Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a pan, sauté the steaks in it on both sides. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the pan from the heat. Add butter, rosemary and thyme and then repeatedly coat the steaks with the brown butter. Serve when the guests are already at the table. Ding, Dong – alas, these will be my friends ...

My conclusion: “Zurich, hats off. You’re on fire with good taste.”

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HELP IS JUST A SHORT FLIGHT AWAY Text: WILMA FASOLA

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IN CASE OF ­DISASTER, HELP IS NEEDED TODAY AND NOT JUST IN A FEW DAYS. IN ORDER FOR THIS TO BECOME THE WORLD­ WIDE STANDARD, A SWISS MAN WANTS TO TURN HIS PRIVATE JET AIRLINE INTO A GLOBAL HUMAN­ ITARIAN AIRLINE.

According to a UN report, around 1.3 million people worldwide died as a result of natural disasters between 1997 and 2017. According to Munich Re, losses in 2017 also amounted to 330 billion US dollars in just twelve months. Also, in 2018 – as the reinsurance company also reported – there were 850 natural disasters worldwide. That is to say: 2.4 per day. The figures impressively show the force with which the earth is fighting against global warming and pollution, while on the other hand, it also proves that Mother Nature still has immense power – even if people often think differently.

TURN DAYS INTO HOURS

Above all, what is frightening in this context is that videos and pictures of disasters find their way into the digital world just a few hours after the disasters hit, but assistance doesn’t reach the affected regions until days later. If a hurricane, an earthquake or the force of nature surprise thousands of people somewhere in the world, surely the first pictures will be available within just a few hours. At the same time, while the media report live at the scene, the advancing aid organizations do not manage to provide personnel and material in a timely manner.

This might certainly be a bit exaggerated and perhaps provocative, however, the fact is that in the case of a disaster, the rescuers often take days to reach a crisis area. After the serious earthquake in the spring of 2015 in Nepal, which killed 8,800 people, it took approximately four days for rescuers and help to arrive. This is something that can no longer continue in the eyes of Martial Widemann. “My team and I said at that time, things can not remain like this,” he says. “We sat at the table and considered how we could optimize this situation.” The result of this discussion was the “Moonlight Air Organization” – a humanitarian airline that takes off from a Swiss airport in three or four hours in the event of a disaster anywhere in the world with the goal of reaching the affected regions within 24 hours; including bringing 100 tons of material.

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Martial Widemann, born 40 years ago in Chur, is a passionate pilot and owner of the exclusive private jet company Moonlight Air. He is a man who is convinced that everyone can make a difference, both large and small. “Our vision is immense, no question, but it is realizable! In the event of a crisis we want to save lives, improve the quality of life and make life more liveable.” The first step in the event of a disaster is to coordinate aid and personnel in the affected areas as quickly as possible.

“With our concept, we can reach anywhere in the world within 24 hours,” says Widemann. “Our lean structures, our globally active network and our own well-stocked emergency facility located directly at the airport make this possible.”

At the same time, help should always be provided where health standards are lacking. The founder of the organization said: “We are also planning a mobile hospital that will allow us to perform European-style operations around the world.” The focus will initially be on heart surgery for children, as well as eye surgery, to implement life-saving and health recovering measures in places that lack on-site experts, materials and hygienic conditions.

FROM IDEA TO SUCCESSFUL ­IMPLEMENTATION

Currently, the Moonlight Air Organization is about to bring their concentrated power on the road, or better said, into the sky. “In the meantime, we have spent about two years working on this project and have now reached the phase in which we finally want to become active,” says Widemann. To get the project out onto the runway, the organization needs a million Swiss francs. This will finance the first three missions and lay the groundwork for further pioneering work. Incidentally, the creation of the project and the missions have been documented by Oscar winner and filmmaker Jefferson Miller.

Afterwards, the Moonlight Air Organization will raise funds in a second round of financing to turn this idea, this project, into a globally unique humanitarian airline, and here one is not alone.

Rather, Widemann relies on numerous synergies. “Unlike commercial companies, we have different goals and different structures – so we’re making our capacity available at a fraction of today’s transportation costs so that humanitarian organizations can reinvest their resources in relief supplies.” It is also possible for the Moonlight Air Organization to fly large quantities of medicines – if necessary in refrigerated containers – from point A to point B.

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A PROJECT WITH NUMEROUS POSSIBILITIES

At the same time, the Moonlight Air Organization is also helping people help themselves. The founder explains: “Our goal is not just to transport material, but for our partners to also train local people.” Companies should be motivated to work in developing countries. “We can fly in the know-how and fly out the produced goods, which will also stimulate the local economy”, says Widemann. “The possibilities are enormous, and we are firmly convinced that we will make a difference with our project.” There are already numerous advocates and supporters. “The permanent team is still manageable, and our network is fantastic. Therefore, we can quickly increase the already impressive 150 years of professional experience within our team”, says Widemann with an eye to the future. What’s missing is money. Money that will ensure that statistics will show fewer deaths and lower numbers in the next few years.