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CONTENTS Edition 139 | Spring 2026
ADVENTURES
24
6
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Untamed Albany
Explore 4WD tracks, beaches and hidden treasures with Jane Pelusey
24 The Long Way Through Outback Queensland
Grant & Linda Hanan take a casual road trip along Queensland’s Great Inland Way
34 Litchfield National Park Jodi Chant discovers that the best experiences begin where the bitumen ends
34
46 Meandering Through the Murchison
Colin Kerr looks at the forgotten jewel in our WA outback
84 Exploring the Helena & Aurora Ranges
Amanda Burton takes a remote adventure to the heart of the Great Western Woodlands
46
REVIEWS 102 Powering Off-Grid Adventures VSS 200W Rooftop Solar Panel
106 Staun Quickset Tyre Deflator 110 ROK Manual Espresso Maker 114 ITEHIL Portable Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration System 2 | Western 4W Driver #139
84 FEATURES
REGULARS
16
4
The Front Matter
118
Out There
122
The Things You See
126
Bush Mechanics
128
Country Stargazing
132
Outback Survival
134
Fishy Business
138
Gear to Go Camping
142
Clewed Up
144
Smart Photography
74 The History of Coinage in Western Australia & What Coins to Look Out For When Metal Detecting
150
Goings On
152
Capture the Moment
153
Now We're TAWKing!
Metal Detectorists — PART 2
157
Quarterly Crossword
90 Bobby Sandhu's Creative Drive
158
Subscriptions
159
Advertiser Directory
96 Is Diesel Dying a Slow Death?
160
Silly Snaps
41
Kevin Coate OAM
Western 4W Driver Spotlight
Magpies
Our black and white minstrels
56 Vale Ian Elliot
We pay respects to one of our own
62 Dive into Geraldton's Rich History and Culture Jambinu Tours and Publishing
66 Pioneer Women of Courage and Resilience
Mildred Mary Walshaw of Comet Vale
A Guide for Four-Wheel Driving
Photo Feature
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Vanguard Publishing
ABN 70 616 133 870 26 John Street, Northbridge WA 6003 PO Box 50, Northbridge WA 6865 Phone: (08) 9422 4330 admin@western4wdriver.com.au www.western4wdriver.com.au EDITION 139: Editor Brayden Edwards Graphic Design Karen Morton Content Brayden Edwards Michael Collins Advertising Brayden Edwards brayden@western4wdriver.com.au Matt Clarke matt@western4wdriver.com.au Natalie Du Preez natalie@vanguardpublishing.com.au Administration Steve Larcombe Sally van Heemst Printing Vanguard Print Cover image: Helena & Aurora Ranges by Red Dirt Australia
Disclaimer: The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Vanguard Publishing or the editors but those of the authors who accept sole responsibility and liability for them. While every care is taken with images and photographs, and all other material submitted, Vanguard Publishing accepts no liability for loss or damage. Vanguard Publishing reserves the right to amend publication schedules and frequencies. Edition 139 Spring 2026
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S
pring is in the air. Wildflowers are in full bloom across the Mid West and beyond, the Perth Hills are filled with amazing colour, and the Golden Wattle is putting on its best show of the year. And then, right on cue, the bloody flies have started to return. Agghhh, the serenity! We've got a window here before they properly take charge, and Edition 139 is built for exactly that window. It's a big year for Albany, marking two hundred years since the Amity dropped anchor in King George Sound, and Jane Pelusey takes us through the tracks, beaches and back roads that make the region so much more than a stopover on the way to Esperance. If the itch to travel further afield is stronger this issue, Grant and Linda Hanan's leisurely haul along Queensland's Great Inland Way and Jodi Chant's discovery that Litchfield National Park only gets interesting once the bitumen runs out will do nothing to settle it. Closer to home, Amanda Burton and the team from Red Dirt Australia head into the Great Western Woodlands, sixteen million hectares of banded ironstone ranges, salt lakes and scrub roughly the size of England, to find the Helena and Aurora Ranges at their spring-fed best. It's the kind of trip that rewards a bit of planning and a lot of tyre-pressure adjusting, and if you've never stood on that ridge line looking out over the woodlands with wildflowers underfoot, this is the edition that will have you rearranging your weekend.
T H E F R O N T M AT T E R WITH MICHAEL (SPIKE) COLLINS
This edition also has a soft spot for the people who've quietly shaped how we explore this state. At ninety years young, Kevin Coate OAM sits down with us to reflect on a life that's taken in beef roads on the Gibb, pioneering Kimberley tourism and enough natural history to fill several careers, let alone one. Colin Kerr goes meandering through the Murchison, Billy Carr shares the Yamatji history and culture behind Geraldton's new Jambinu Tours, and we uncover the remarkable story of Mildred Walshaw, who worked her Comet Vale gold lease alone for decades with only a faithful dog and the twiceweekly Mulga train for company. These are the stories that remind you the tracks we drive were shaped by people every bit as tough as the country itself. It's in that spirit that we say a sad farewell to one of our own this edition. Ian Elliot, Mr E to those who knew him, spent decades chasing the wheel tracks of explorer Frank Hann across some of the harshest and most beautiful country in this state, and in doing so, became something of a legend himself. A long-time contributor and one-time editor of this magazine, his knowledge, his humour and his insistence on getting the history right shaped this publication and inspired more of us than he probably ever realised. It felt only right that his old friend and the magazine's founder, Nick Underwood, returned to these pages especially to write his tribute, and we've dedicated some pages to Ian's remarkable life this edition. We hope you'll agree he's earned every one of them. Vale, Ian.
On the gear front, Matt Payne asks the uncomfortable question of whether modern emissions regulation is slowly strangling the diesel 4WD, while also finding time to fall in love with the ROK Manual Espresso Maker, proof that a proper coffee and a clear conscience about water usage aren't mutually exclusive out bush. We also put the ITEHIL portable reverse osmosis filter and the Staun tyre deflator through their paces, and Bobby Sandhu shares the story behind some of his favourite automotive photography from around the state. So, whether you're chasing wildflowers through the Woodlands, retracing two hundred years of history in Albany, or simply topping up on caffeine and camaraderie somewhere off the blacktop, get out there and make the most of it. This season doesn't last nearly long enough. Cheers, Spike
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Shelley Beach
UNTAMED ALBANY BY JANE PELUSEY
Exploring 4WD tracks, beaches and hidden treasures in Albany and surrounds as the historic port city marks 200 years since settlement.
T
wo hundred years ago, a fleet of ships arrived from New South Wales to establish a penal colony and military outpost on the west coast of New Holland. The Amity arrived in King George Sound on Christmas Day 1826. Major Lockyer disembarked the next day, and on the 30th of December 1826, twenty troops, three women and twenty-three convicts disembarked. They were not the first people there. Bragging rights belong to the Indigenous Mirang people who have occupied this land for over 50,000 years. Dutch, French and even American whalers have explored the region off and on since 1627.
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As Albany recognises the 200th anniversary of its founding in 2026, there are many events happening over the next months. If you’re heading to Albany to participate in festivities, why not take some time out to give the fourbie a run? Albany boasts some classic tracks. Albany is built around the superb natural harbour of King George Sound. Its entrance is protected by the Michelmas and Breaksea Islands. Today, the City of Albany, with a population of 35,000, has spread around the harbour and the rolling hills of Mt Clarence and Mt Melville.
Once past the last turbine, it gets sandy and soft with some rocky bits, so time to drop tyre pressures. The reward is cliff-top views over the wild Southern Ocean. At the end point you also get great views of Mutton Bird Island and access to the beach for an added extra. One way, this drive is around one hour, depending on stops. Interesting fact: The Albany Wind Farm can generate up to 80% of the city’s power needs. West Cape Howe National Park
Windfarm Track
4WD Destinations Near Albany
No doubt Albany offers plenty of options for four-wheel driving. So, we have come up with a few of our favourites. Albany Wind Farm For a bit of 4WD fun close to Albany, head out to Albany Wind Farm and take the dirt track past the massive turbines.
West Cape Howe is a little-known national park on the south coast of Western Australia. Unless you are an avid four-wheel driver, Bibbulmun Track hiker or like jumping off cliffs with your paraglider, you may not have heard of it. The little hamlet of Torbay is located halfway between Albany and Denmark, the gateway to West Cape Howe. Shelley Beach and the lookout above it can be accessed by twowheel-drive vehicles. In the right conditions, the lookout is a launch pad for paragliders. Keep in mind that the road down to the idyllic Shelley Beach campsite is very steep, so not for towing caravans. The rest of the park is only accessible by 4WD and hiking trails. The vegetation varies from stands of karri trees to stunted coastal heath that bursts with colour in spring. The three or four accessible beaches have white sand and protected waters, while the southern cliffs plunge into the heaving Southern Ocean. On the gravel road to Shelley Beach is a small sign indicating a track to the right western4wdriver.com.au |
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with space to drop your tyre pressures. The challenging track to West Cape Howe is steep and sandy. Sections of rubber matting in varying degrees of disrepair were put in place to protect against track erosion. The track is often heavily gouged out, and care must be taken when approaching tight blind turns. The West Cape Howe cliffs are spectacular and scary at the same time, as they plunge 60 metres into the Southern Ocean. Take care near the edge as there are no safety railings. Other points of interest in West Cape Howe National Park include: Golden Gate Beach: a popular surf beach West Cape Howe cliffs: where the rock climbers abseil down and climb back up. Dunsky Beach: a calm protected beach Bornholm Beach: Amongst the 4WD fraternity, the trail accessing Bornholm Beach is considered extreme in difficulty and not for beginners. Perkins Beach and Mutton Bird Island Beach near Torbay have 4WD access.
Boat Harbour If you don’t mind a longer drive from Albany, head out to Boat Harbour for some great beach driving. The turnoff is off the South Coast Hwy between Walpole and Denmark. The gravel and then sand track winds through the coastal scrub to a long bay with a narrow entrance, bounded by granite rocks. Once the track becomes 4WD, time to drop tyre pressures. At the end of the road is a carpark with a toilet. It’s a small beach protected by the granite rocks. Next door is a wider, more exposed, and softer beach. Boat Harbour Beach becomes Mary-Annes Beach. We first visited Boat Harbour on foot during our Bibbulmun Track hiking adventure. Parry Beach Parry Beach is worth a shot. Parry Beach Road turns off the South Coast Highway, around 30km west of Denmark. From Albany, you are looking at an 82km drive. Lowering tyre pressures is recommended as this beach can be soft at times. If fishing is your thing, Boat Harbour and Bibbulmun Shelter
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park up and have fun catching salmon (April & May). You can do a short drive towards Denmark to Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks, which is well known for its stunning calm waters and dramatic rock formations. There is a shady campground run by volunteers at Parry Beach if you decide to head back to Albany the next day. Cheynes Beach The small coastal settlement of Cheynes Beach is 65km east of Albany. During the 1840s, whalers used the area as a base for processing whales. Today, Cheynes Beach is a mecca for holidaymakers, anglers and 4WD enthusiasts. You can drive some distance along the white sandy beach, but lower your tyre pressures. For us, the big highlight of this area is a four-wheel drive track that heads in the other direction. At the end of Cheyne Road, there is a sandy track to the right. The track is dotted with granite pillars of
Granite pillars on the Cheynes Beach track
creative shapes. It is worth taking the side tracks. They lead to the lookouts and Back Beach, where we once caught some Australian Salmon. The side track past Back Beach leads to a lookout over a channel between the rocky cliffs and Bald Island. Thankfully, now you can gaze in wonder at scores of southern right and humpback whales swimming by, now safe from the harpoon gun. The Cheynes Beach Whaling Company moved to Albany Harbour and now is a museum.
Cheynes Beach track
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Torndirrup National Park For sheer variety of natural attractions, this national park would be right up there with the best in Australia. What is more, the national park is on the other side of King Geroge Sound, 19km from Albany. The Gap and Natural Bridge
Waychinicup
Solitude, wildlife in abundance, magnificent wildflowers, camping in tents, sheltered waters for kayaking and imposing granite formations make Waychinicup one of our favourite destinations. Not far from Cheyne Beach, 65km east of Albany, an inlet flows out to sea between cliffs, looking like a mini fiord. You don’t need a 4WD to get to this little patch of paradise. Camping fees apply.
Along with Natural Bridge, The Gap is the most popular natural attraction in Torndirrup National Park. People gather at the lookout to marvel at huge waves smashing into 40-metre-high granite cliffs and to whale watch in season. Natural Bridge is located less than 100 metres from The Gap, via a paved walking trail. The constant Southern Ocean swells have over the millennia worn away granite to form a massive natural bridge formation.
Little Beach
Blowholes
Waychinicup National Park
A 1.6km return walk trail from the This pristine jewel of a beach is 35km carpark takes you to a rocky outcrop east of Albany within the boundaries of ecologically important Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve. I rate this as one of the most scenic beaches on the south coast, and that is saying something. With granite headlands at either end and powdery white sand with two lone boulders in between, Little Beach has become an Instagram favourite. It is a good spot for fishing and swimming, but not for Natural Bridge driving on.
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where waves surge in, producing spray and creepy blowing sounds. For best effect, it’s better when the swell is up. As with The Gap and Natural Bridge, people have lost their lives when veering off the path and too close to the ocean, where king waves can rise up without warning. Jimmy Newells Harbour In contrast to the wild exposed coast, Jimmy Newells Harbour is a protected inlet enclosed in steep rocky terrain. A 100-metre walk from the carpark leads to tremendous views overlooking the inlet. Bald Head Walk This is a classic day walk that tops many a ‘best hikes’ list. If you chose to tackle the 12.5km return trail, it is a hard one, so set a day aside to do it. For the physical effort, the views are hard to beat. Bald Head trail
Bald Head trail
Salmon Holes Located in Torndirrup National Park, this curved white sandy beach is bookended by spectacular granite headlands. It is also an Australian salmon fishing hotspot, peaking around April and May. This beautiful location is deceptively dangerous. Despite signage warnings, anglers fishing off the rocks are taking huge risks, even on calm days. Since 1983, 13 people have died after being swept to their deaths by king waves or slipping and drowning. For the best bang for your buck, especially if you are a frequent visitor to WA national parks, get a 12-month pass. Check the Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions (DBCA) website for current fees and information.
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Other Albany Attractions
There are plenty of things to see in Albany other than four-wheel driving.
Brig Amity
Brig Amity When driving along Princess Royal Drive, you will notice a sailing ship perched high and dry on the foreshore. For a small fee, you can climb aboard and explore the life-size replica of the Brig Amity. The original ship carried the first British settlers to Western Australia, under the command of Major Edmund Lockyer. It landed at what is now Albany in 1826. The replica was built in 1975. National Anzac Centre There is an old photograph of Gallipoli troop transport ships from the Eastern States sitting off Albany Harbour before sailing to Egypt and Turkey. The photograph was taken in 1914 from where the impressive National ANZAC Centre sits today. The centre staff give you a card of an ANZAC soldier, and you follow him around the centre through interactive interpretive displays. Australia’s first ANZAC dawn service is believed to have taken place in Albany in 1923. Princess Royal Fortress While visiting the National Anzac Centre, it’s well worth checking out Princess
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Royal Fortress. In order protect the port of Albany from potential military threats, a fortress with gun batteries was built in 1893. It was located on Mount Adelaide, which offered commanding views of Princess Royal Harbour. In 1945, bigger guns were installed but never used in anger. Princess Royal Fortress and its barracks are now a museum housing a wide variety of fascinating military artefacts. You can also enjoy fine dining at the Garrison Restaurant and Bar. Albany's Historic Whaling Station
Albany’s Historic Whaling Station No trip to Albany would be complete without visiting the historic Whaling Station. Built in the 1950s, it finally closed in 1978, making it the last operating whaling station in Australia. Today, you can take a tour of the processing factory and whale-chasing ship, which is now an award-winning museum. You can learn about Albany’s whaling tradition and the recovery of whales from the brink of extinction. Whale Watching Albany’s whale watching season starts late May, ending around early October. Albany’s King George Sound is one of the best spots in Australia for seeing both the humpback and southern right whales in one location. With a bit of luck, you may even see the rare blue whale.
Whale-watching boats operate out of Albany, but there are also land-based options for those prone to seasickness. Ellen Cove Boardwalk near Middleton Beach is a great spot to see these ocean giants. Ellen Cove Board Walk Starting near Middleton Beach, the sealed path and boardwalk wind around the base of Mt Clarence past Ataturk Channel. This is a prime viewing spot for humpback and southern right whales in season. The undulating walk/ cycle path goes for 6km to Albany Port. Middleton Beach
nearby stained the water and beach red from blood. Thankfully, those days belong in the past. Albany’s abandoned WWII Fuel Tanks A relic of Albany’s Second World War heritage, seven massive fuel tanks are now attracting street artists from far and wide. Until recently, these unusual structures attracted little attention despite being visible above Albany’s coastal vegetation. These fuel tanks have become a popular attraction, a mix of history and art.
Long Distance Trails
For Albany locals, sweeping white Middleton Beach is a popular swimming spot. Sunrise over Michaelmas and Breaksea Islands is worth getting up early for.
There are two world-recognised longdistance trails starting or terminating in Abany depending on what direction you are coming from. One is a hiking trail; the other caters for mountain bikes.
Misery Beach
The Bibbulmun Track
Misery Beach, 20km south of Albany, was named Australia’s best beach in 2022 by Tourism Australia. Pristine white sands, huge granite backdrops, turquoise waters and lack of crowds were why Misery Beach won the gong. The beach got its name from back in the days when whale processing
This epic 1,000km hiking trail goes between Albany and Kalamunda. There are 49 camping shelters along the way, like the one at Boat Harbour. You can complete the whole thing in one go, like we did, twice, or do it in sections to suit your needs.
Middleton Beach
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The Munda Biddi Trail Designed for two-wheel adventurers, this mountain bike trail goes between Albany and Mundaring for 1,000km. There are shelters for the mountain bikers along the way.
Mountain Biking
The fast-growing action sport of mountain biking is well represented in and around Albany. Albany Downhill Mountain Bike Trail There are not many mountain bike trails starting right in the middle of a city. The Albany Downhill Mountain Bike Trail starts and ends within minutes of the city’s CBD. Starting at the carpark on Mt Clarence, this challenging 700-metre trail features jumps, hairy drops and wooden berms. With a 76-metre drop and 41 technical bits, riders need high skill levels, although there are less heart-stopping lines for beginners. In 2026, more walking and mountain biking trails are being added in Albany’s Heritage Park. Contact Albany Visitors Centre for updates. Streets of Albany
Albany Art Silo of Ruby Sea Dragon
For an interesting way to get to Albany, try the PUBLIC Art Silo trail, where artists painted murals on wheat silos. Albany’s contribution is a spectacular ruby Sea Dragon. Bicentennial Events 2026 marks the 200 years since British settlers arrived in Albany. There is a host of events taking place that commemorates both Albany’s Indigenous and European cultures. A major highlight will be the Carrying the Fire event taking place on the 7th November 2026. People will make lanterns and walk as a community from Emu Point to Middleton Beach. The Albany Historical Society will be holding the Albany Bicentennial Gala on January 21st, 2027, at the Albany Entertainment Centre. Follow their website for ticket announcements.
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Rushton Park 9 - 11 October Presenting the best of the caravan, camper trailer, 4WD vehicle, boating, camping equipment & accessories industries in a large scale exhibition
Monster Truck Rides, Craft Beer, Food & Entertainment, Free Shuttle from Mandurah Train Station & the Best Deals of the Year Adults $20 Seniors / Veterans $18, Kids to 17yrs free with a ticket holding adult
Show details and tickets visit: www.mandurah.show
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