Tales and Trails Margaret River Region Magazine - Spring Summer 2021/2022

No.2 / Spring & Summer 2021-22

STORIES / TOWN GUIDES / ITINERARIES

YO U R F R E E G U I D E T O T H E

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WA DA N D I B O O DJA The Wadandi people are the traditional owners of the South West of Western Australia. Wadandi Boodja means Saltwater People’s Country.

‘Whilst living, travelling, visiting and holidaying on Wadandi Boodja, we ask that you respect the area and walk softly on the country taking time to listen to Boodja (Country) as she Wongi (talks) of the season, and leave nothing but footprints.’ ~ Pibulmun Wadandi Yunungjarli Elder Wayne Webb

ABORIGINAL SEASONS

The Wadandi people follow a six-season calendar. This spring and summer you’ll experience Kambarang, Birak and Bunuru Kambarang | October - November Kambarang is known as wildflower season (the season of birth). The rain starts to ease and Boodja (Country) is warming. Acacias, banksias and other delicate flowering plants including the kangaroo paw and orchids come to life. One of the most striking displays of flowers will be the Mooja (Christmas tree or Nuytsia). The bright orange and yellow flowers of this tree signal that heat is on its way. Animals will awaken from hibernation at this time too, and birdlife will abound.

Birak | December - January Birak is characterised by arid easterly or north easterly winds in the mornings and a coastal sea breeze in the afternoon. The Wanajet (peppy flowers) have fallen, letting us know the rains are easing up. The sun shines hotter and the days are longer. With calmer, warmer waters, the larger djiljit (fish) species come closer. Groper, abalone, and crab are plentiful in the seas. The Kaarak (red tailed cockatoos) are chewing away, dropping marri maada (honky nuts) from the trees.

Bunuru | February - March This is the hottest part of the year with little or no rain. Hot easterly winds continue with a cooling breeze most afternoons if you are close to the coast. Traditionally this was, and still is, a great time for living and fishing by the coast, rivers and estuaries. Freshwater foods and seafood made up a major part of the diet of the Wadandi people at this time.

Thank you to all our contributors Cally Browning, Sophie Mathewson, Lizzy Pepper, Tom De Souza, Tim Campbell, Zac White, Sarina Kamini, Sarah Robinson, Danielle Costley, Gemma Lamplough, Dianne Bortoletto, Fergal Gleeson, Taya Reid, Suzanne Srdarov. Cover Image: Dylan Dehaas @dylan.dehaas.

Tales and Trails is proudly brought to you by the Margaret River Busselton Tourism Association, Premium Publishers and Vanguard Press.

For advertising enquiries contact Natalie Du Preez: natalie@premiumpublishers.com.au No material published in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the permission from the publisher. The views expressed in Tales and Trails are those of the retrospective contributors and every endeavour is made to ensure information is correct at time of print but may change afterwards. Please visit margaretriver.com for the most up to date information.

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Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

S p o t l i ght on. . .

ZAC WHITE Born and raised on the Australian west coast, Zac White has made it his mission to gorge on WA’s rich diet of blue waters, sandy beaches and outdoor adventures. It was while living on Rottnest Island that he decided to pick up a camera for the first time and has never looked back.

We asked the intrepid traveller what he loves about the Margaret River Region after his recent camping trip.

1.

What are some of the Margaret River Region’s hidden gems you like to photograph?

4.

Best place to watch the sunset?

So many good spots around the

region for sunset! Redgate beach is so

The Margaret River Region is literally full of

nice, as well as Margaret River mainbreak

hidden gems but a couple of my favourites

carpark on the grass there, but like I said,

from my most recent trip would have to

you can’t beat the cliffs at Contos.

be the cliffs at Contos which is probably

5.

the best place in WA to watch a sunset.

Alexandra Bridge is also a bit of a local secret. Can jump off the bridge and swing off the rope swing. There’s also a little campsite around the corner from the bridge, which is riverside and super low key.

2.

What’s so good about a camping road trip in Margaret River?

If you’re camping on Australia’s east coast, all you get is packed caravan parks and it’s hard to get away from people to really relax. In Margs you are actually spoilt for choice. So many uncrowded and quiet campsites amongst the bush. I stayed at Margaret River Retreat which was full of kangaroos and wildlife.

3.

What’s your favourite time of year down south?

I always love summer but I’d say coming into autumn the weather is beautiful too.

Calm waters, and not as windy or hot.

Feature Contributor: Photographer Zac White

Top local food experience?

I don’t mind a pub feed to be

honest. The Common did the job on my recent trip, but I loved the vibe and the pizza at the Margaret River Brewhouse.

Also hard to pass up the Margaret River Bakery for a coffee and breakfast feed, so gooooooood!

6.

Favourite beach?

Woweee this is a hard question

haha! I feel like every corner of the region is just amazing. But maybe Redgate is a favourite. So close to town and great for a surf.

/ T ales & T r ails is a cur io us explo r atio n o f t h e Mar gar e t R i ve r Regio n. O ur sto r ies, lo cal tips and secr ets ar e cu r at e d f o r y o u , t h e r eader , to guide yo u o n yo ur adventur es ac r o ss t h e d e st i n at i o n . /

...a uniquely southern Margaret River style.

Cellar Door | Open Daily | 10am to 5pm BYO picnic + wine by the glass stellabella.com.au || 9758 8611 Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com 205 Rosa Brook Road, Margaret River

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WHAT’S INSIDE How To Find Culture on Wadandi Boodja

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Scenic Sipping: Wine Tasting with a View

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Carbon Zero Trails

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Culinary Explorations: Must-Do Foodie Tours

24

5 Ways to Experience Australia’s Best Sunsets

28

Wildflower Trails: The Orchid Hunter

31

Margaret River Wine’s Connection to the Coast

34

The Secret Life of a Wedding Photographer

40

Camping Expeditions in Boranup and Beyond

42

Guide to the Margaret River Region Farmers Markets

46

A Tale of Art and the Ocean

50

Ancient Oasis: The Ethereal Lake Cave

54

The Call of the Sea: A Guide to Fishing & Boating

56

Basic Birding: How to ID the Red Tailed Black Cockatoo

60

10 Joyfully Nostalgic Beach Houses

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WHAT’S NEW PAGE 8 WHAT’S ON PAGE 12 BUSSELTON

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Map & Things to Do Craft Froths & Good Nosh: Eat, Drink Busselton

DUNSBOROUGH

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Map & Things to Do Explore Downtown Dunsborough Reset in Quiet Quindalup

MARGARET RIVER

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Map & Things to Do Discover Margaret River

AUGUSTA

86

Map & Things to Do A Town’s Love for the Pub Tracks & Trails of Augusta

IMAGE Tourism WA

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| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

GETTING AROUND

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To Perth

DUNSBOROUGH QUEDJINUP

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Yallingup

10

BUSSELTON UNDALUP

20mins

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ON WADANDI BOODJA

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30mins

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Busselton Margaret River Airport

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Flanked by national parks including towering forests,

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pristine coastlines and rugged granite outcrops, the Margaret River Region is the quintessential Western

Cowaramup

Australian holiday destination.

10mins

Gracetown

Nannup

This is award-winning wine country with a thriving art scene, incredible hiking trails, and a distinctly circular

MARGARET RIVER WOODITJBILYUP

food philosophy with a great respect for the land.

With sheltered bays to the north, vineyards and surf

Prevelly & Gnarabup

CAV ES RD

coast along its length, and two oceans meeting at the southern tip, it’s time to rediscover the Margaret River Region.

For help planning your next adventure, contact our team of local travel experts here in the Margaret River Region.

Telephone: (08) 9780 5911 30mins

Email: welcome@margaretriver.com BROCKMAN HWY

Hamelin Bay

AUGUSTA TALLINUP

Discover the southwest with Avis.

Explore everything this region has to offer with our latest model vehicle, and wide range – including people movers and SUVs. Plus, ask about our one-way rentals with unlimited kilometers.

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Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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WHAT’SNEW

It’s been a challenging

// WINE PARADISE

created a yarning table and wine tasting

year for so many

Fraser Gallop Estate’s new Taste of the

experience around the salvaged stump.

around the world,

Vineyard immersive wine experience takes

Taste their biodynamic wines, reflect on the

yet here in the

you on a delightful tour of the winery,

vital components of sustainable land care

Margaret River

vineyard and manicured gardens. Hop

and hear yarns about what the peppy tree

aboard the EV golf buggy to learn about

might have seen over its long life.

Region, despite travel restrictions, we’ve been fortunate to have new restaurants pop up along with new

Aravina Estate has added new terraced

in truly beautiful settings, admiring the

wedding gardens, a ceremony arbour and

grand Palladian architecture of Gallop Hall

walkways, making the Hamptons-style

from afar. Bookings essential.

winery even more picture-perfect for

Xanadu have launched a great behind

your dream wedding day. The glorious

experiences

the scenes winery tour where you discover

hydrangeas will be in bloom now too!

and offerings.

the history and see how the wines are made. Finish with a personalised tasting and

// TOURS AND EXPERIENCES

optional cheese board or lunch in the chef

Walk Talk Taste added a Gourmet Glamp

hatted restaurant. Scrumptious platters are

experience this winter; a luxurious farm

newish) stuff to get

now available to order through the cellar

stay in a bell tent sumptuously furnished

around this spring

door for a more casual dining experience

and generously stocked with the region’s

and summer.

too. Book online at xanaduwines.com

premium artisan produce. The Evening Tour

Here’s our wrap up of must-try new (or

WORDS | Lizzy Pepper

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Wilyabrup’s excellent terroir and taste wines

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Cullen Wines lost a beloved old peppermint tree in recent storms and have

is also set to resume in September. Follow them at @walktalktastemargaretriver.

Forage Safaris’ new Food and Farm

simmering away or bread fresh out of the

tours take you on a back roads foodie trip

oven for their famous fancy ham sanga.

to meet salt of the earth farmers and small

Local Dunsborough is a stylish café

producers. Explore pretty countryside, wide

bringing together some of the south west’s

open fields, forest and rivers as you tour

finest produce. Grab a Goanna Café take

around Augusta and Karridale, and further

home dinner, Cambray and Yallingup cheeses,

afield near the townships of Nannup and

locally made condiments, dips and Simmos

Balingup.

Ice Cream and Gelato Buonissimo.

Margaret River Star Class Tours just

Margaret River Tuck Shop serves up

launched, and we love the sound of both their

simple yet superb food, from wood fired

Indulgence Tour and Family Daycation. The

pizza with fiore de latte to middle eastern

Indulgence is an intimate jaunt with expert

salads, scallops cooked to perfection or

commentary and luxe inclusions. Family

kangaroo with native plum, and there’s

Daycation is a wine tour with a twist; karaoke

a great beer garden for spring/summer

and movies in the mini-bus, wineries with

sipping. Open for dinner five nights a week,

amazing playgrounds and the flexibility to visit

and brekkie/brunch on weekends.

an animal farm, ice cream or chocolate factory.

Fat Duck Cycles in Busso has moved down

Koomal Dreaming’s tours are a must-do,

Prince Street to bigger, better premises and

giving incredible insights into Indigenous

gained a groovy new coffee shop, Thirteen

culture and connection with Wadandi

Bunker Bay Resort. Browse and book at

Espresso. It’s the athlete’s choice for a bike

Boodja (country). Look out for the family-

mcleodtours.com.au.

service, new speedos or Pedal Mafia gear, as

friendly tour specials led by cultural

well as epic brews and snacks ranging from

custodian Josh Whiteland around the Ngilgi

// EATERIES

saintly smashed avo and smoothie bowls to

Cave and Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse

Side Street Project is an epic new lunch bar

wicked donut-topped shakes.

precincts. Bookings essential.

in Dunsborough’s light industrial area. Chef

The folks at Gelato Buonissimo have

Isaac (ex Yarri, Gordon Street Garage) has

transitioned from the traditional gelato carts,

highlights tour from Perth to Margaret

a rotating menu of casual fine feeds such

to shop-front, and now to wholesale. The

River, perfect for the first time visitor.

as the pork katsu sando, vegan rice noodle

business owners have picked up a swag of

Visit forests, wine country and coastal

salad or signature fried chicken. The aroma is

awards for their signature Wildflower Honey,

lookouts and stay at the luxurious Pullman

incredible; it might be a house-made chutney

Rosemary & Orange Zest gelato. Pick up a

McLeod Tours have added a four-day

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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Forrest Beach House

gourmet tub at locations across the region including Drift café, the Quill Collective, and Larry Cherubino Cellar Door.

// STAY Private Properties has added five new world-class holiday homes to their collection, all on the water’s edge in Yallingup, Dunsborough and Margaret

Apricus

Bushland Retreat

major once-in-a-century restoration work.

The award-winning Interpretive Centre and Precinct remains open, but call ahead to check the status of Tower Tours.

Wonnerup House has reopened after extensive restoration works. Nestled between forest and wetlands just ten minutes from Busselton, George Layman first build a rough hut for his family on the River. Surf, swim, snorkel and kayak to your

//

heart’s content before heading back to the

Forest Adventures South West, billed as “the

struck. George Layman Jr and his wife

luxurious comfort of these beautiful homes.

adults’ zipline course that kids can do too”

Amelia built the National Trust-listed

Book at privateproperties.com.au.

just added a new nature playground for its

limestone house you see now.

Pullman Resort Bunker Bay has lured

younger visitors. The park’s six high ropes

site in 1837 before a series of tragedies

Golf Gardens is a delightful find the

renowned chef Kiren Mainwaring to join their

courses are suitable for adventurers aged 7

whole family will love. Big Ball Golf is easy

seaside team. He’s dishing up Leeuwin Coast

years and over, from family friendly easy

with larger-than-regulation balls, and the

oysters, Margaret River venison, and Capel

courses to advanced courses with swaying

Supa Putt is 18-hole mini golf with a few

marron alongside pastry chef Romain Lassiaille

ladders and BASE jumps.

extra challenges. Come for the golf, stay for

who creates the resort’s famous desserts.

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ATTRACTIONS

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse is having

pizzas, coffee and cake on the deck.

JahRoc Galleries is widely known for its diverse art representation and its cutting edge furniture designs. Situated in the heart of Margaret River, it is a one stop gallery destination that is home to their own line of JahRoc Fine Furniture and also exhibits an inspiring collection of Fine Art, Paintings, Art Glass, Sculpture, Ceramic, Fine Jewellery & Argyle Diamonds.

JahRoc’s unique collaborative approach with contemporary Australian Artists offers the viewer an opportunity to observe a crossing of genres and throughout their neexpansive ruaL dngallery a ydraspaces, V viL to ,sevisualize liG divahow D hctaW nefurniture pO gniruand d seart irepieces llaG comight rhaJ tawork gnittogether aerc dduR their own .sin em it ro f uahome .moc.or cooffice. rhaj.www kcehC .soidutS

JahRoc Furniture (est.1987) have forged a reputation as Western Australia’s leading furniture designer/makers with Gary Bennett and David Paris working together producing bespoke fine furniture pieces that have been acquired by collectors around the globe. With over 50 industry awards, the JahRoc design team are by far the most highly awarded furniture makers in Australia.

Using ethically sourced local hardwoods, JahRoc’s Furniture is often described as “functional art”.

Visit JahRoc Galleries today and find out why all that do leave inspired.

83 Bussell Highway, Margaret River (08) 9758 7200 info@jahroc.com.au

www.jahroc.com.au

Open daily 10am - 5pm

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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// W H AT ’S O N

Spring and Summer is prime party time across the Margaret River Region.

Book festival tickets (and beds) in advance. Sign up to the monthly What’s On blaster for the most up-to-date event information.

SEPTEMBER

Cape to Cape MTB: Oct 21st – 24th

42.2km marathon. This world class event

Margaret River Open Studios:

Starting at Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse in

is enormously popular with athletes and

Sept 11th to 26th

Augusta and finishing four days later at

spectators, and smaller events are also run

Over 100 artists and artisans open the

the Margaret River Distillery, this iconic

over the weekend.

doors to their art studio and workshops for

riding experience includes access to

ironman.com/im-western-australia

16 days, delivering a unique experience

stunning private trails, vineyard visits,

for art lovers to meet the creators of the

brewery finishes and some of the warmest

JANUARY

artwork, peruse and purchase originals.

hospitality the region has to offer.

Karridale Festival: Jan 14th – 16th

mropenstudio.com.au

capetocapemtb.com

Held on an incredible purpose-built festival

OCTOBER

NOVEMBER

Strings Attached The WA Guitar

Eagle Bay Epic Adventure Race:

cabaret, comedy and live music. Bars are

Festival : Oct 8th – 10th

Nov 6th – 7th

open all day for those with a taste for

Returning for its 2nd year, this is a festival

Two epic adventure races with four off-

locally brewed beers and wines.

for guitar players, makers and enthusiasts,

road disciplines, plus a kid’s course and

lunarcircus.com

staged over 3 days. Showcasing the magic

‘Wife’ Carrying Championships.

of strings through live music, exhibitions,

eaglebayepic.rapidascent.com.au

masterclasses and workshops. stringsattachedfestival.com.au

showcases the weird and unusual of circus,

Festival of Busselton: All of January The Festival of Busselton has been

WA Gourmet Escape: Nov 17th to 21st

delighting locals and visitors every summer

Food, wine and good times are back on

for 58 years! The programme is packed full

Fine Vines: Oct 15th – 24th

the menu for the 2021 Gourmet Escape.

of events and activities offering free family

Margaret River’s newest festival will bring

This year, see respected culinary stars

fun in the Busselton CBD, foreshore and

together more than 30 unique events

including Curtis Stone, Rick Stein, Guy

surrounds. Don’t miss the New Year’s Eve

over 10 days, to showcase the quality

Grossi, and Maggie Beer.

celebration.

and depth of the Margaret River Region’s

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site, in picturesque surrounds, this festival

festivalofbusselton.com.au

wine offering. Expect tastings and tours,

DECEMBER

masterclasses from the experts and

Ironman WA: Dec 5th – 6th

FEBRUARY

exclusive museum wines.

Competitors swim 3.6 km around the iconic

Busselton Fringe Festival: All of February

finevinesfestival.com.au

Busselton Jetty, ride 180km, then run a full

Busselton exudes artistic enthusiasm at

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

designs in nature designs in nature

this vibrant festival which offers a feast of

sip and savour 120+ craft beers from

artistic mediums to spark your imagination.

20+ breweries, along with enticing

The event runs over four weekends in

cuisine and local music.

February with performances of theatre,

swbeerfest.com.au

dance, comedy and visual arts.

MARCH

Busselton Jetty Swim: Feb 13th

Augusta River Festival: March 6

The 3.6km open water swim around the

Held each year on the Labour Day

iconic Busselton Jetty has become one of

long weekend, includes the Blackwood

WA’s premier sporting events and is open

regatta, market stalls, food, drinks and

to novice, professionals and swimmers with

live entertainment. Look for details of

disabilities. The event sells out in record

Cape Leeuwin’s 400 year celebrations at

time each year, so participants should get in

augustariverfestival.com.au

quick! The festival vibe on the foreshore is a great excuse to get along too. busseltonjettyswim.org.au

OUTDOOR MOVIES Margaret River’s acclaimed outdoor

South West Craft Beer Festival:

cinema “Movies at Cape Mentelle”

Date TBC

run throughout the summer months

The South West Craft Beer Festival brings

and have a range of movies for

together brewers & and beer lovers at

children and adults.

Signal Park on the Busselton Foreshore to

Capementelle.com.au

jewellery designed and jewellery designed and River handmade in Margaret handmade in Margaret River Open daily 10am - 4pm Open daily 10am - 4pm 611 Boodjidup Road 611 Boodjidup Road 08 9757 6885 08 9757 6885 info@payetgallery.com.au info@payetgallery.com.au www.payetgallery.com.au Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com | www.payetgallery.com.au

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H ow To:

FIND CULTURE ON

WA DA N D I B O O DJA WORDS | Sarina Kamini

Cultural Custodian, Josh Whiteland, says that to “Leave no trace” is a key to unlocking an intimate experience of culture on Wadandi Boodja – which is the Aboriginal name for the Margaret River Region. “Enjoy your natural surrounds and only leave your footprints. The wind comes along and blows your footprints and your tracks out.”

To educate yourself on what this Country

coastal heath into an outdoor market,

Quedjinup (Dunsborough) means meeting

means to our First Nations People, there

and the ocean into both touchstone and

place of the fish traps: the coastline where

are a number of ways you can explore and

resource. Josh knows the medicinal plants

families gathered to catch and cook fish

connect with the land.

of the coastal ridge, shares music and

over fire, make thatched frames from

traditional fire lighting. Taking Yallingup

peppermint trees and create community

Koomal Dreaming Cultural Tour

and its surrounds back to the land makes us

on Country. What appears as a nature

Leaving no footprints is both a perspective

accountable to how we move through it.

playground at Djiljit Mia is a landscape designed around the story of the Wadandi

and a way of physically engaging. A

14

cultural tour with Josh Whiteland of

Djiljit Mia Community Garden

Koomal Dreaming provides a framework for

& Gathering Place

understanding. Josh defines the landscape

Djiljit Mia means ‘fish home’ – and these

includes a sculpture of an Aboriginal elder

with traditional place names, their meaning,

gorgeous gardens are a great place to visit

and his son. Local artist Greg Banfield

and the Dreamtime stories that establish

for groups of all ages. Fishing for the

constructed the piece to reflect the

origin. The experience of foraging turns

Wadandi people was a community activity.

fishing stories that extend back through

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

people’s use of the land.

Pronounced Jill-jit My-ah – the park

generations of the region’s Wadandi people.

and it was a traditional camping spot for

They’ve got traditional gidgees on their

thousands of years. Drawings by Noongar

back and the elder is pointing down to the

artist Sandra Hill at the site’s entry detail

fish traps, teaching his son how to hunt.

the plants and animals that sustained the

The fishing theme is also represented in the

Wadandi across the year’s six seasons.

nature play, where a rope and log course

Settlers benefited from Wadandi knowledge

symbolises the fish coming in at high tide.

of Country, shown as they were to fertilise the ground with fresh seaweed. Behind the

Ellensbrook on Mokidup

homestead a trail leads to a grove, housing

Ellensbrook House is one of the region’s

the legend of Meekadariby, the place where

original accommodation homesteads and

the moon bathes, held in the waterfall that

is situated just south of Gracetown. It was

flows with the rains.

settled by Alfred Bussell in 1857. The Aboriginal name for the locality is Mokidup,

Redgate Beach

REST, RELAX, RECONNECT Romantic, secluded couples’ retreat in self-contained chalets with candlelit sky-view spas, kingsized beds and tranquil forest outlooks, on 240 acres of natural beauty.

Redgate beach is the place where Aboriginal stockman Samual Isaacs and Grace Bussell rescued more than 50 survivors from the Georgette shipwreck in 1876. On a clear day, you can see the sunken ship in the bay at Redgate. Josh says beneath the story lies the uniqueness of the landscape. Redgate beach offers a chance to respect the ferocity of the ocean, marvel at the striking boulder formations and wonder at a geography whose provision of rich cultural resources requires such gentle handling.

This article was originally published in 2020 on margaretriver.com and has been adapted for print

Opposite: A Koomal Dreaming tour with Josh Whiteland is an unforgettable experience Left: On a clear day, you can see the sunken ship, The Georgette in the bay at Redgate beach Below: Ellensbrook on Mokidup is a beautiful location where a self-guided walk reveals the history

231 Yelverton Road, Yelverton Margaret River Wine Region Phone (08) 9755 7110 or email reception@forestrise.com.au

R E ST, R E ST, R E LRAX, E L AX R ECO , RECO NNEC NNEC T T Romantic, Romantic, secluded, secluded, self contained self contained chalets chalets with candlelit with candlelit sky-view sky-view spas, Kingsize spas, Kingsize

double double beds and bedstranquil and tranquil forestforest outlooks, outlooks, on on 240 acres 240 acres of natural of natural beauty. beauty.

231 Yelverton 231 Yelverton Road,Road, Yelverton Yelverton Margaret Margaret RiverRiver WineWine Region Region Phone Phone (08) 9755 (08) 9755 71107110 or or emailemail reception@forestrise.com.au reception@forestrise.com.au

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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WWWW . FW O .RFEOS RT ER SI S TE R .I CS O E .MC .OAM U. A U

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Scenic s ip s :

WINE WITH A

VIEW

What’s better than a tasting of world class Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon?

The opportunity to drink in the view while savouring your glass.

WORDS | Fergal Gleeson

THE WORLD’S LEADING wine critic Jancis

minutes from Busselton in the Geographe

Robinson described Margaret River as ‘as

Wine Region.

close to paradise as I have been on wine

www.whicherridge.com.au

travels.’ Find below a list of nine wineries ordered in north to south orientation to help

Wise Wines

you plan an itinerary that’s a feast for your

Wise Wines is the only winery in the region

eyes as well as your tastebuds.

with ocean views. The views are spectacular over the Meelup old growth forest and

Whicher Ridge

Geographe Bay. These can be enjoyed over

The Wine Sensory Garden is the centre

a long lunch at the Wise Restaurant matched

piece of the wine tasting experience, with

with their award winning wines or just

its plantings of fruit trees, herbs, flowers

enjoy a refreshing gin and tonic or glass of

and seasonal vegetables which match the

wine on the terrace.

texture and styles of the family- owned

James Halliday has noted the value for

winery’s small batch wines.

money of their range.

Opposite: Whicher Ridge offers one of the region’s lesser-known winery experiences

You can do a self-guided tour around the

www.wisewine.com.au

Below: Picnics in the vines is a privilege open to those on tours/ bookable wine experiences

Cathy Howard the winemaker. This hidden

16 Streicker | Tales Wines & Trails / margaretriver.com Clairault

garden, or book a Pick and Sip Tour with gem is located off-the-beaten-track, 20

We have moved!

Catering Please visit us at for all occasions our new location!

Swings & Roundabouts

Clairault Streicker

Swings & Roundabouts are known for

You can find your own private spot

their relaxed vibe. The ‘Swings Backyards

overlooking the rolling vineyards and native

Stories’ experience takes you on a guided

bushland at Clairault Streicker with their

tour through their 40-year-old dry grown

Vineyard Picnic.

Cabernet Sauvignon vines, whilst you enjoy a

Relax and take in the peaceful

glass of Backyard Stories Sparkling. Then it’s

surroundings as you roll out the picnic

onto the ‘Swing Seats’ set amongst majestic

rug and basket packed with goodies. The

gum trees with views of the surrounding

Vineyard Picnic is $75 for two and includes

bushland and rolling vineyards, for a shared

a picnic basket packed with a selection of

grazing feast and wines.

dishes from their seasonal menu as well as

The cellar door & restaurant venue was

salads, daily baked sourdough, cheese and

extensively renovated in 2019. The new

house made crostini and lavosh. Perhaps

space is industrial organic in style, filled

a bottle of the Streicker Blanc de Blancs

with open fires, a dedicated wine tasting

Sparkling to complete your picnic?

bar, VIP tasting room and huge feasting

Wines are made by the highly regarded

table with some of the best views in the

Bruce Dukes. The quality of the Chardonnay,

Margaret River Region.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah across their

www.swings.com.au

ranges is impressive. www.clairaultstreickerwines.com.au

Aravina Estate Aravina Estate is a destination as well as

Black Brewing Co

a cellar door. The restaurant overlooks

For those who want to embrace the region’s

extensive gardens, manicured lawns and the

full culinary bounty, head to Black Brewing

lake. The alfresco setting has a classy resort

Co where you can select from a delightful

feel, offering lunch five days per week with

wine tasting or a craft beer paddle. A

organic produce sourced locally.

modern menu with full flavoured food will

If you prefer a more relaxed dining

also satisfy. And the view? Several outdoor

experience, grab a table at the Riviera

viewing spaces overlook a lake complete

Pizza Bar or sit on a supplied picnic blanket

with a fountain.

on the lawn. On weekends live music is

www.blackbrewingco.com.au

performed outside where children can play freely in the playground.

Apart from the cellar door, there’s also

Cullen Wines The Cullen Biodynamic Wine Room offers

a Sports Car Gallery with a collection of

a complete emersion into the biodynamic

cars for you to browse through plus WA’s

journey through seated wine tastings,

only Surf Gallery showcasing a collection of

dining and a self-guided biodynamic spiral

rare surf memorabilia. There’s also the new

garden tour.

8Waves Brewing Co. brewing 5 beers on-site. www.aravinaestate.com

Biodynamic winemaking is enhanced organic winemaking eliminating artificial

••Catering for all occasions Sushi platters ••Sushi platters Rice paper roll platters ••Rice paper roll platters Salad platters • Salad platters Hotgyoza gyozadumplings dumplings ••Hot Healthy

•

Fresh

•

Easy

Vegetarian GF vegan options available

233 Naturaliste Terrace, Dunsborough ph 9759 1145

www.pekopeko.com.au pekopeko_cafe

Peko Peko

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/

Relax and take in the peaceful surroundings as you roll out the picnic rug and basket packed with goodies / Howard Park You can choose from an array of wine tastings at Howard Park, both at the counter or tailored seated tasting experiences including a line-up of Jeté - their awarded méthode traditionelle sparkling wines.

You can put together your own platter, made up from delicious regional produce – cheese, charcuterie and all the trimmings, matched to your favourite wine.

Howard Park are one of Western Australia’s leading family wineries. www.howardparkwines.com.au Howard Park Cellar Door

fertilisers and sprays and coordinating winemaking activities around lunar movements.

The spiral garden allows you to stroll through the garden and follow the fascinating biodynamic process that is employed at Cullen. You can touch, feel and read about the actions and concepts.

Cullen Wines are one of the region’s founding and greatest wineries and Gourmet Traveller Wine nominated them as ´Star Cellar Door 2021’. Vanya Cullen makes icons like Diana Madeline and Kevin John, Amber and the entry level ‘Dancing’ Wines. www.cullenwines.com.au

Juniper Estate Sitting beside the tranquil Wilyabrup Brook, the Juniper Estate cellar door is surrounded by cottage gardens and green lawns.

You can enjoy wine by the glass at one of the picnic tables on the lawns under the shade of the trees when it’s warm.

Voted Best Small Cellar Door 2021

by Gourmet Traveller Wine, the Juniper Crossing Range offers outstanding value at the entry level. Aquitaine Rouge and Blanc are two of my favourites. www.juniperestate.com.au

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| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Juniper Estate Garden

BREWERY | DISTILLERY | RESTAURANT WHATEVER YOU’RE AFTER, BLACK BREWING CO IS GUARANTEED TO GIVE YOU A QUINTESSENTIAL TASTE OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA’S SOUTH WEST REGION. WE OFFER UNCOMPROMISING CRAFT BEERS BREWED IN HOUSE, OUR DUNE DISTILLING GINS AND SOME OF MARGARET RIVER’S BEST WINE VARIETALS ALL SERVED ALONGSIDE A DELICIOUS MENU MADE FROM LOCALLY-SOURCED INGREDIENTS. STOP BY AND SPEND THE DAY WITH US. WE’RE OPEN DAILY FROM 11AM TO 5PM.

3517 CAVES ROAD, WILYABRUP, MARGARET RIVER (08) 9755 6500 WWW.BLACKBREWINGCO.COM.AU @BLACKBREWINGCO Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com | 19 BOOK A TABLE ONLINE | FOR WEDDINGS AND SPECIAL EVENT ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT EVENTS@BLACKBREWINGCO.COM.AU

CARBON ZERO TRAILS: HOW TO HOLIDAY WITH A LIGHT FOOTPRINT

We are drawn to the pristine natural environment of the Margaret River Region, with superb food, wine, art and tourism experiences. But how do we travel a little lighter, and look after this patch of paradise? Here are some of the

friendly practices by the Robert Parker

Hats off to Cullen Wines who have been

green emblem.

carbon negative since 2019 – an incredible

Visit the Biodynamic Wine Room for a

achievement in an industry where glass

wine tasting and delicious lunch overlooking

production and freight leave a heavy carbon

the vines, where the critically acclaimed

footprint. 2020 Halliday Winemaker of the

restaurant now offers a set-course menu,

Year and 2022 Halliday Wine Companion

and a greener approach. “90% of the food is

Viticulturist of the Year Vanya Cullen prefers

grown in our own gardens. It’s sustainable

the term ‘carbon positive’, as it’s such an

and there’s very little wastage.”

outstanding accomplishment. “We’ve created a

Cullen switched to lightweight glass

businesses leading the way in

carbon positive business - our soils sequester

bottles and from glossy painted cardboard

environmental sustainability.

more carbon than our whole business emits.”

to recycled, a move applauded by UK wine

WORDS | Lizzy Pepper

20

Eat & Drink

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Cullen Wines is both organic and

critic Jancis Robinson who notes bottle

biodynamic, and one of only 24 wineries

weight in her reviews. “We partnered with

worldwide recognised for environmentally

Men of Trees and now we’re able to measure

and offset our emissions with tree planting in the Yarra Yarra Biodiversity Corridor.”

Nowadays, a cover crop and glorious fields of sunflowers sequester carbon, and

ABOVE Carbon positive Cullen Wines is leading the trend in sustainable business in the south west

Vanya continues to lead the way with the south west’s first carbon project, measuring for carbon trading.

The #seriouslysustainable folk at Arimia operate entirely off grid, totally reliant on solar power and battery storage to run their Yallingup restaurant, cellar door and guest house. Chef Evan Hayter is also a keen farmer, growing trout, pigs and sheep alongside the vines and kitchen garden, and a zero-waste approach allows him

OPEN EVERYDAY FOR EVERYONE

eaglebaybrewing.com.au

Lake Cave Image Tim Campbell

BELOW As the planet heats up environmentally and politically, it’s good to know that places like Barnyard1978 exist.

RIGHT 100% off grid, Arimia operates with a firm view of living lightly

don’t need to increase the planted area.”

Hence the chocolate company supports the Beyond Chocolate program which aims to lift 5,000 family plantations out of poverty, increase yields and decrease deforestation.

The flagship Margaret River venue has just been clad in thermally efficient jarrah.

Next is a move to 100% compostable packaging, including a cellophane replacement made with sugar cane fibre.

Coward is excited about the financial benefits too, “Every time we’ve reduced our carbon emission, every change we’ve made to make our business more sustainable, it has resulted in a financial benefit.”

Visit for an indulgent chocolate experience and purchase products supporting the conservation of the Western view of the Leeuwin Naturaliste Ridge in

restaurant is organically or biodynamically

the background, and Evan’s thriving garden

The team at Barnyard1978 prove that

grown on the property or sourced from

in the fore. Pair it with wine for the perfect

hospitality and environmental conservation

similar local operators.

sustainable long lunch.

can coexist in their restaurant and new Barn

Arimia owner Ann Spencer says the move

The Margaret River Chocolate Company

Hives eco-pod accommodation. “Create more,

to sustainability began in the vineyard

not only serves up delicious chocolate

consume less; embrace every opportunity

but quickly spread to other parts of the

treats, but they’re also set to achieve their

to learn and improve, and always look to

business, “We wanted to manage the

2025 carbon neutral plan two years ahead

nature,” says owner Egis Rusilas, who wants

vineyard organically, and knew it was

of schedule.

to inspire others to positive change.

important to look after the whole property.”

It’s the growing, harvesting and

Sit under the restaurant’s solar pergola

transporting of cacao beans in Africa that

overlooking vines, sculptures and free

set menu fits well with the Arimia ethos,

emits the most carbon, co-founder Patrick

roaming chooks. A paddock-to-plate

“We don’t have waste and we know who

Coward explains. “A lot of the carbon cost is

approach means that the fresh pasta is

we’re prepping for and exactly what we’re

borne by the cutting down of native forest

made with home grown eggs, and the

cooking.” Lunch is enjoyed with a charming

to plant cacao trees. By increasing yield, you

chickens feast on kitchen scraps.

In the kitchen, a move to a six-course

22

Swamp Tortoise, Quokka or Numbat.

to be more creative. Produce used in the

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Sidekick Café is awesome – from the

Learn all about sourdough at the ‘climate

barista’s cheery ‘hello’ to the seriously good

change aware’ One Table Farm Cooking

coffee and people-watching opportunities.

School. Bake bread, crumpets, pizza and

Karen and Rob Gough run both Sidekick and

best of all, sourdough doughnuts and enjoy

Settlers Tavern, and sustainability informs

a farm tour. The farm was a blank canvas

everything they do.

when Cree and Tim bought in 2014, and

“We have not sold plastic water bottles

now grows macadamias, walnuts, pecans,

since 2004!” says Karen. They were the

stone fruits, coffee and tea, apples, pears,

first business in town to use compostable

custard apple, pomegranates and capers.

paper straws and had to buy an entire pallet

Explore a million-year-old cave and gaze

from the east coast. They use Enjo cleaning

with wonder at magnificent crystals that

cloths, macadamia milk (the only nut milk

formed around 500,000 years ago. Caves

grown in Australia) and still give 50c off for

Road is named for the 100+ caves that lie

reusable takeaway cups.

beneath the Leeuwin Naturaliste Ridge,

“We use local produce wherever and

and four are open for tours; Ngilgi Cave in

whenever possible – even though that could

Yallingup, Mammoth and Lake Cave within

cost more, we feel the need to connect

Boranup Forest and Jewel Cave further

with the local community” says Karen,

south near Augusta.

about supporting the likes of Bahen & Co Chocolate, Burnside Organic Farm avocadoes,

Stay

Mumballup Macadamias and Claudio Biscotti.

Burnside Organic Farm offers an authentic agritourism experience, with four limestone

Play

bungalows, a winery and tours of the

Book a wine tour with a difference; Easy

working farm. You might recognise Jamie

Ride Tours lead e-bikes through forests and

and Lara McCall from the Margaret River

vineyards, past paddocks and wildflowers

Farmers Market where they sell avocadoes,

with a delightful picnic lunch at a winery.

olive oil and Zinfandel. Enjoy an outdoor

The solar-charged electric bikes help you

bath with a view, or relax with a glass of

up hills but there’s still enough pedal power

wine on the outdoor sofa.

required to make it an adventure.

Or hop on an electric quad bike tour

Stay at the original Cullen Wines Homestead, a granite home with feature

with Eco Adventures Margaret River. Solar

timber overlooking verdant Wilyabrup wine

powered, whisper quiet and emission-

country. It’s a short walk to lunch and a

free bikes are the best way to explore the

biodynamic wine tasting, right in the heart

Boranup Forest.

of the Margaret River Region.

Burnside Organic Farm

www.bettenaysmargaretriver.com.au

WINE + NOUGAT TASTINGS In the heart of the Margaret River Wine Region

OPEN 7 DAYS 10:00am - 5:00pm Sample our single vineyard wines & taste our french style nougat whilst watching the team in action through the viewing window or Try a wine & nougat pairing session (bookings recommend)

To find us

248 Tom Cullity Drive, Cowaramup

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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CULINARY EXPLORATIONS: MUST-DO FOODIE EXPERIENCES It’s well reported that the Margaret River Region is a gourmet hotspot, but to find the best culinary experiences, you need to turn to the experts, Margaret River’s food tour operators.

WORDS | Diane Bortoletto

Arimia Estate – Farm tour and lunch

hour-long farm tour before sitting down to

Travelling down a dirt road to Arimia

a set-menu lunch.

“I try to slow my clients down, stop the rush, create an immersive experience for

Estate, a totally off-grid winery and

24

culinary sophistication evolve.

restaurant, feels like an adventure before

MYDRIVER

them where they can connect with the

you even arrive. Their philosophy is that

Owner of MYDRIVER, Rob Dewar, tailors

region, the producers, the people,” Rob said.

they are farmers first, driven to create a

every tour for his guests. He’ll ask about

positive impact on the place through the

your previous tour experiences because he

regenerative farm visit at One Table Farm

organic, sustainable and ethical production

wants to show you something different. Rob

where guests can interact with the farm

of wine and food. Guests can get a closer

has lived and worked in the Margaret River

animals, have a chat with Spotty the pig,

look at what happens at Arimia during an

Region for 21 years and has watched its

then harvest vegetables for a cooking class

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

A tour with MYDRIVER might include a

with owners Cree and Tim. Or a visit to Rob Gherardi at Mr Barval, a small meticulous producer making low intervention wine the traditional Italian way using an old press, with behind-the-scenes access and a tasting from the barrel.

“I’ve created a High Cheese afternoon that included house made cheeses from Yallingup Cheese with wine matching at Marri Wood, House of Cards, Goon Tycoons and Skigh Wines.

“We have special access to Skigh Wines,

It’s no surprise that Cheeky Monkey

Margaret River Star Class Indulgent Tour

– it’s situated in a green valley and we go

draws big crowds. The brewery has

This immersive tour is for those who

to woodman’s shack that has a big wooden

panoramic views over a lake and vineyard.

enjoy food and wine while expanding their

stove and sit with the winemaker and taste

Their beers come packed with flavour and

knowledge of the region and its offerings.

his wine together, it’s quite artisanal.”

enthusiasm and the food is as integral to the

The Indulgent Tour is just that, a tour that

experience as the crafty pints.

stops at a select collection of unique cellar

Other stops might be the sensory garden

Overall, it’s a pleasant way to spend a

doors, all of them of the highest calibre.

at Voyager Estate, or a meal cooked over

day, being driven about on leather seats in

Limited to eight participants, the tour is

the coals at Glenarty Road winery.

a spacious Kia Carnival listening to Rob’s

intentionally small to keep it intimate and

English accent as he talks passionately

allow participants the time to chat with

exclusive dining. I have a lot of requests for

about the good people, fantastic produce

cellar door staff and winery owners. The

breweries and lunch at Cheeky Monkey which

and the pristine environment of the

emphasis is on relaxation and education.

is hugely popular, especially with families.”

Margaret River Region.

at Whicher Ridge Wines, a degustation lunch

“It’s not always high end, expensive and

Stopping at some of Margaret River’s

Getting there is half the fun Kick back, relax and explore the scenicTranswa Margaret River region on one of our luxury road coaches.

Half

Western Australia’s South West is rich in history, culture and stunning natural landscapes.

Our five-star road coaches are fully accessible and air conditioned, with on board entertainment, including on demand entertainment streaming services to your own device, USB ports and toilet facilities.

We travel between Margaret River and Perth 12 times a week and offer a variety of concessional discounts.

Unwind and enjoy the scenery while we do the driving.

Plan your journey by visiting transwa.wa.gov.au or call 1300 662 205.

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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25

BELOW Bettenays know how to pair the best of nougat and sweet wine LEFT Learn how the bean gets to your cup at Yahava Koffeeworks

finest local food producers, guests of Star

Safaris. The tour embraces the paddock to

Walk Talk Taste

Class Indulgent Tour can sample exquisite

plate food philosophies of the region, and

Walk Talk Taste’s small group evening

olive oils, chocolate and locally made cheeses.

allows visitors to meet the farmers and

tours return this spring after a hiatus

Save room, there’s a deluxe three-course

food producers.

during winter. The tour is a terrific way

“It took time to find the right farmers

to experience the delicious offerings in

seated wine tasting. There’s amuse-bouche

and since we started in December (2020),

the Margaret River township. Limited to

tastings paired with wine at Thompson Estate,

the response has been really positive.

12 people, guests sit down with the local

wine and cheese pairing at the quaint cellar

Many places we go to are private farms

venue operators, walk along secret bush

door of organic winery Marri Wood, and the

you couldn’t otherwise visit, and while we

paths and learn much more about the

day ends with sampling gin and sitting back

have exclusive access, it doesn’t mean it’s

people and produce while having a good

to take in the stunning view.

expensive,” Jan said.

amount of fun along the way.

lunch at Vasse Felix after a sophisticated

“‘I love seeing visitors make a connection,

Forage Safaris

be it with farmers, animals or a place, and I

Tours at Bettenays Margaret River

The pandemic offered Zimbabwean born

love that our tour supports local farmers too.”

Bettenays offer a variety of quality

Jan Stewart (below) the chance to reset and launch her new farm gate tour, Forage

There’s a full day or half day tour,

Tastings by the Fire will give you a

designed so you don’t spend any more

guided wine tasting by the firepit. Finish

than 35 minutes in the car at any one time.

the tour by toasting nougat on the fire

Everything is included, morning tea, lunch,

and sipping on hot chocolate with a

afternoon tea.

splash of nougaretto liqueur. Yum! Or

Forage Safaris tours go to Nannup,

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| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

nougat and wine experiences. Toasty

both leaving from Busselton, and both

take a guided tour of the property and

Whicher Ridge and Chapman Hill, most of it

enjoy brunch with owner and operator,

off the tourist trail. They are also licensed to

Greg Bettenay. The experience includes

go into any national park, where you might

five wine tastings, five nougat tastings

enjoy a picnic or a quick stretch of the legs

and a substantial grazing board style

with a short nature walk.

brunch to finish.

Where great food and art come together...

Welcome to the The Studio Gallery & Bistro - an inviting, light filled, contemporary art gallery set alongside a licensed, award-winning restaurant. The gallery represents leading Australian artists, showcasing a variety of artworks and exhibitions year round. Please check our website for details.

Combining international and local culinary experience, Head Chef Chris Mitchell and his team take inspiration from our beautiful region with its fresh, seasonal produce. We pride ourselves on having a varied menu which includes creative vegetarian dishes.

Wednesdays only, treat yourselves to our popular Chef’s Select - ‘trust the chef’, delivering a wonderful surprise of dishes and flavour. Bookings essential.

Enjoy a long leisurely lunch on the decking, discovering and tasting a variety of flavours from Chef’s menu designed to share.

You’re in the top 10% of restaurants worldwide.

Congratulations to: The Studio Bistro

BISTRO Lunch Wed - Sunday Bookings online www.thestudiobistro.com.au P 08 9756 6164 GALLERY Open 10am Wed - Monday Open 7 days during school holidays www.thestudiogallery.com.au P 08 9756 6371 7 Marrinup Drive, Yallingup WA

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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WAYS TO EXPERIENCE AUSTRALIA’S BEST SUNSETS WORDS | Diane Bortoletto

There’s something simply magical about closing the day watching the sunset over the Indian Ocean. Looking west over the water, sand between the toes, taking in the pink and orange skyline. It’s a breathtaking experience. You can appreciate a sunset in the Margaret River Region while sailing on an old pearl lugger, sharing a bottle of wine in a cabin, or on a budget – enjoying a couple of cold tinnies at a lookout point. Here’s a top five for visitors.

1

Sugarloaf Rock The changing colours, the crashing sea, and abundant seabird life make Sugarloaf Rock, a gigantic granite rock that emerges from the Indian Ocean, a sunset hotspot. As the day turns to night, the rock changes colour every minute with the sky’s gradient that moves from yellow to orange to red and onto a purply-mauve. If you stay long enough, you’ll see the beam from the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse. Situated within a designated nature reserve in the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park just off Cape Naturaliste near Dunsborough (so leave the dog at home), Sugarloaf Rock is one of the region’s most spectacular coastal landforms. The ocean side is often battered by treacherous seas, separated from the coast by a narrow channel of wide waves. The best viewing point is from the elevated lookout.

28

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

2

Redgate Beach Escape Watch the sunset every night from your very own digs at Redgate Beach Escape where each of the four villas enjoy

3

Prevelly Without a doubt, one of the best vantage points for a south west sunset is at Surfer’s Point in Prevelly. The ocean here is vast

uninterrupted panoramic views of the

and wild and the mesmerising waves of

Indian Ocean and Leeuwin-Naturaliste

Main Break and South Side just add to the

National Park. Nestled amongst 80 acres

spectacle. The view of sandy beaches and

of coastal bush atop of the Cape Leeuwin

green coastal scrub curves all the way down

Ridge, each two-bedroom villa carries the

to Gnarabup. There’s tiered grassy areas

vibe of a secluded beach shack but comes

where you can stretch out, the famous

with all the mod cons for a luxurious stay

steps down to the beach, each step adorned

thanks to its simple but functional design,

with the name of the winning surfer of the

relaxed Balinese-inspired furnishings and

Margaret River Pro over the past 20-odd

cosy surrounds. Sit on your front veranda,

years, or you can just park up, stay in the

fire up your own exclusive barbeque and

car and take it in all in. Go further along

feel like a millionaire who is hundreds of

to the River Mouth and watch the sunset

miles from anywhere as the sun lowers

from the sand, barefoot with the ocean

to the horizon. You’d never guess that

at your feet. The incredible view with the

Margaret River town is just a 10-minute

headland in the distance makes for excellent

drive, and several of the region’s great

photography opportunities. Grab your drink

wineries even closer.

of choice and sit back and watch the show,

A perfect home for every holiday ALBANY AUGUSTA BUNKER BAY BUSSELTON EAGLE BAY

DENMARK MANDURAH

DUNSBOROUGH MARGARET RIVER

PEPPERMINT GROVE BEACH WALPOLE

SWAN VALLEY

YALLINGUP

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www.privateproperties.com.au

and best of all it doesn’t cost a thing.

4

Local Tip: During the summer months, there’s often food trucks stationed at Surfers Point.

Willie Cruises Departing from Dunsborough, Willie Cruises, takes passengers on an afternoon cruise that finishes as the sun begins to set.

Operating in the summer months, ‘Willie’, a 67-foot gaff-rigged schooner modelled on the designs of early 1900s Broome pearl luggers is indeed one of the last operating pearl luggers in Australia. It’s like stepping onto a piece of history, cruising underneath her heavy sails after they are manually hoisted up. There’s no roughing it like the original seafarers, ‘Willie’ is comfortably fitted with seating – our pick is the boom net in the water - and includes complimentary canapes and drinks plus there’s a bar on board. Sailing the azure waters between Quindalup and Eagle Bay, there’s nothing to do but take in the beauty of the coast. You can charter the vessel yourself and invite 29 friends to join you on your own private cruise. We can’t think of

5

any better way to watch the sunset over the Indian Ocean than gently sailing the calm waters of Geographe Bay.

Hamelin Bay Famous for its resident sting rays that swish along the shoreline, the white sandy beach of Hamelin Bay is a serene sunset spot.

Snorkel in the bay or watch from a distance the sting rays that measure up to two metres in diameter. There are 11 shipwrecks at Hamelin Bay in the Ngari Capes Marine Park, and four in the WA Maritime Museum’s Hamelin Bay Wreck Trail; the Agincourt (1882), Chaudiere (1883), Katinka (1900) and Toba (1930s/1940s). The four wrecks are visible by snorkelling and also visible from the coast at certain times. Deemed too dangerous to be a port to service the nearby timber mill, the original jetty that was built in 1882 was decommissioned in the early 1900s. Just a few pylons of the original jetty remain, jutting into the sky, they create visual interest and look great in photos any time of day, but particularly during sunset.

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| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

/

The ocean here is vast and wild and the mesmerising waves of Main Break and South Side just add to the spectacle /

O n t he Wi l dflow er Tra i l – MEET THE

ORCHID HUNTER We live smack bang in the middle of one of only 34 global biodiversity hotspots with an incredible 8,000 plant species, 80% of which are endemic to the south west and are not found anywhere else in the world.

Meet the wildflower whisperers who can help you find the orchids and wildflowers gracing our coast and forest.

WORDS | Lizzy Pepper

The Orchid Hunter Hank Durlik has been seeking out

‘We’ve never seen anything like this!’.”

He admits there’s a lot of local knowledge

wildflowers since he was a kid, “I grew up in

required to find the orchids – tiny helmet

a forestry settlement just north of Margaret

orchids on the forest floor are nearly

River surrounded by orchids. In the old days

impossible to locate, unless you know

we could pick them and have 20 varieties

exactly where to look. “It took me years to

at home in a vase. Now I photograph and

find my first Babe in the Cradle - a striking

record them in a diary, noting whether

purple orchid. Now I know exactly where it

they’re diminishing or increasing.”

grows, I can find it each year. That’s the fun

Ten years ago, Hank swapped a career in banking to start Margaret River Exposed

thing about orchids; they’re quite addictive.”

October is our peak time for wildflowers,

tours, and now shares his passion with

advises Hank. “I had a botanist from London

guests. “People are gobsmacked how quickly

year before last, an orchid nut. He lobbed up

it changes from Boranup Beach straight

with a bucket list, and we found 99% and he

into a karri forest filled with orchids, back

was thrilled. There were over 100 orchids

to bright wildflowers on the Cape. I always

out at that time.”

get nervous with people from Tassie or New

Unlike wildflowers further north, where

Zealand because they’ve got amazing flora,

there’s a blanket of flowers lasting just six

forests and coast, but they get here and say,

weeks maximum, there’ll be something

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/

We celebrate the culture of the place by being on Country and in tune with the seasons /

flowering in Margaret River all year round. “There’s some sort of native orchid flowering from April to late December. You’ll get people travelling around ticking orchids off their bucket list – it’s a bit like twitchers travelling the world looking for birds; orchid hunting is the same.”

Join Hank on tour, book at www.margaretriverexposed.com.au

The Cultural Custodian Josh Whiteland of Koomal Dreaming is a Wadandi Cultural Custodian and an incredible storyteller. He shares knowledge of his saltwater ancestors and his love for his home, Cape Naturaliste. “Every two months on the Noongar calendar the season changes. It’s the wildflowers, trees and plants that indicate these changes. This

possum sleeping in its drey and to examine

pink pimelea in Cape Naturaliste, Meelup

dictates the food we forage, the animals we

the plants and flowers. “Flowers tend to tell

Regional Park and Ngilgi Cave. “We celebrate

focus on, and the best areas to camp.”

us more about country, weather and seasons

the culture of the place by being on Country

than technology.”

and in tune with the seasons.”

A highlight of Josh’s tours is the gentle walk through bushland, stopping regularly to draw maps in the sand, point out a

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His tours take you to spectacular country, past abundant wattle and bright

Join Josh’s cultural tours, book at www. koomaldreaming.com.au

Springtime offers perfect hiking weather to take in the wildflowers. In summer, leave early in the morning when it’s cool or try a cave walk

The Cave and Lighthouse Guides Set within the national park, the bushland around the region’s caves and lighthouses is often brimming with wildflowers, and the tour guides are keen to point out what’s in bloom. From Mammoth Cave’s bunny orchids that flower at Easter, to delicate pink fairy orchids which pop up at the Lake Cave doline, the guides know what is blossoming, and where. “Hardenbergia?

You’re absolutely surrounded by it. But it’s only at this time of year, when it bursts into flower, that you realise how abundant this beautiful creeper actually is. If you stand still long enough in the forest, it will entwine you in hundreds of stunning purple flowers. It forms vines that can be strong enough to tow a car, and local Wadandi made good use of the vines as bush rope.”

Book a cave or lighthouse tour at margaretriverattractions.com Wildflower guidebooks available at Visitor Centres in Margaret River, Busselton and Dunsborough.

The art of sparkling

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raser Gallop Estate’s chief winemaker Clive

MARGARET RIVER WINE’S CONNECTION TO THE COAST

when I moved here and used to fish off the

Clive had an unusual upbringing, having

rocks at Contos before that.” Clive’s a keen

been born in Tanzania then raised in Dubai

diver too, often bringing home abalone and

and later New Zealand. Unsurprisingly, he

crayfish. “I’ve got a good teriyaki recipe for

had the travel bug in older life and was

the abalone and the crayfish I cut in half

drawn to Margaret River for the surfing

and have a chilli and lime glaze.”

breaks and underwater allure of sea life

WORDS | Sophie Mathewson

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| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

beneath. “I bought a tinnie fairly early on

Otto has a strong connection to the coast.

And it’s not just Clive who visits the

beaches and bays daily. Sommelier Evan Gill

moisture from below. And it’s those warm

at Vasse Felix will surf most days, Vanya

sunny days followed by cool nights that

Cullen is a regular swimmer and hiker along

provide perfectly ripened grapes by harvest.

the coast around Gracetown, and Flying

Clive says, “The fact that it is coastal

Fish Cove winemaker Damon Eastaugh has

also means that the diurnal temperature

a history of winning some big wave titles.

variation (the variation between the

The coastal environment is intrinsically tied

high and low temperatures) is less than

to the way of the people in Margaret River,

the continental climates inland where

whether it’s surfing, sailing or dangling a

the night-time temperature drops more

line from a dinghy.

dramatically.” Clive says that it’s the

Original winemakers were likely drawn

Indian Ocean’s Leeuwin current that helps

to Margaret River for its sea-battered

moderate temperatures as well and aids

landscapes and rugged beauty, but it was

in the production of high-quality cabernet

their innovation and foresight that we

sauvignon, chardonnay and varieties like

can thank today for discovering that this

semillon and sauvignon blanc.

maritime influence provides the perfect recipe for good wine.

“That we get strong sea breezes everyday also helps cool the vineyards during the

The recipe itself is in the ocean air

day, so they don’t get too hot and the

that sweeps across the region’s three

grapes ripen slowly, with longer hang

neighbouring coastal borders at night -

time and more intensity of flavours. The

preventing frost and helping to retain the

consistency of climate here is also the

grapes acidity. It’s in the ancient soils –

biggest reason Margaret River can get great

gravelly loam over a clay sub-layer which

vintages year in and year out.”

allow the grapevines to really sink in and pull

The Margaret River Wine Region’s

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/

... there is a strong sense of appreciation for the pristine environment and climatic conditions that produce great wines /

philosophy of sustainable farming practices is partly a product of its distinctly maritime climate. The region has healthy populations of sea life – which, outside of their culinary context, are a foundational part of the coastal environment. Marine life such as Watch the Margaret River Wine Region’s latest film which highlights this coastal connection.

abalone and crayfish remove the seas sediments and organic matter, leaving the water clearer and cleaner. Having thriving species at the bottom of the food chain allows the higher order species of fish and sea mammals to flourish too.

And these sustainable coastlines are better able to support the surrounding lands. Resulting gravelly and clay soils with moisture below means minimal human intervention for yielding crop for farmers.

Vineyards are surrounded by thick karri and marri forests which consist of around 80% of endemic species (meaning they are not found anywhere else). Marri blossoms, which come to flower in the months around

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| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

DISCOVER THE ULTIMATE OLIVE OIL EXPERIENCE Inset left: Winemaker Clive Otto with a local rock lobster catch.

This page: The region’s seafood delicacy, abalone, pairs perfectly with a glass of chardonnay.

SOAP | GOURMET FOOD | SKIN CARE | WORKSHOPS

vintage, ease the pressure off winemakers as local birdlife are pushed into the native forests and away from the vines. Wattle birds and parrots favour the nectar of the marri blossom to the grapes which naturally allows for a redistribution of these bird populations. When you observe all these factors as a completed picture, there is a strong sense of appreciation for the pristine environment and climatic conditions that produce great wines.

There are a number of affiliated sensory pleasures to be found when tasting wine that come from such a unique environment.

Tasting the varietal in the right location where it was made, breathing in its smells and feeling the texture of the sea air and loamy soils can all help to engage every sense to high alertness and improve the experience. It’s something that cellar door teams are now experimenting with, and winery tours have taken on an almost tactile physicality – with visitors touring farms, taking nature walks along the Cape to Cape coastal track, or stepping into the barrel room to experience the sights, smells and tastes of the vintages. As seasoned traveller Clive Otto will testify, “Compared to other wine regions, Margaret River is very special. The beaches, forests and caves in the area make it a great place to live. And if

SOAP FACTORY & WORKSHOPS 135 Puzey Road, Wilyabrup WA | Ph. (08) 9755 6111

you love food and wine then it’s got that too in spades with all the great restaurants in the area.”

Open daily (bookings essential for workshops)

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Celebrating 5o Years of wine growing

Cullen DPS 1971 o 2o21

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Cullen DPS

Quality Integrity Sustainability ·

Visit our Biodynamic Wine Room at 4323 Caves Road, Wilyabrup. · Open for Tastings and Sales 7 days a week, 1o:oo am - 4.3o pm Open for Lunch Dining, Friday - Tuesday (bookings are recommended) Telephone: o8 9755 5277

www.cullenwines.com.au

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The Secret Life of a

WEDDING PHOTOGRAPHER Weddings are big business in the Margaret River Region.

Turn to your nearest local, and you’re likely to find they’re connected to the industry in some way – whether its supplying wine, playing live music or in Kelly Harwood’s case, taking beautiful photos.

WORDS | Sarah Robinson

elly grew up on an egg farm in Rosa

“A big part of it is the landscapes

special spots, which she uses as the perfect

changing throughout the seasons,” she says.

River. She’s been a wedding photographer

setting for people on their wedding day.

“If I know someone is getting married in

for six years, and has a low-key obsession

“Further up the road from the Boranup

spring, the landscape would have just come

with finding unique landscapes for her

forest there’s a spot with this wild creeper that

out of winter and sometimes new things,

couples to be photographed in, especially if

has all these pink flowers that cascade over all

like the pink flowers, pop up.”

they’re off the beaten track.

the trees, it’s quite magical,” she says. “They

“I’ve lived here for so long and I still find places I’ve never seen before,’ she says. ‘I’m always on the lookout for something new,

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Being a local helps Kelly get access to these

Brook, just outside the town of Margaret

Wedding season in the Margaret River

only come out at a certain time of the year, so

Region usually runs from October through to

if I know it’s out, I might take a couple there.”

April. For wedding photographers, that can

Kelly says the changing seasons are

mean one or two weddings every weekend,

like the sunflower fields or a really cool

her inspiration when searching for

with busy weekdays editing images and

paddock that may not be open to the public.”

extraordinary places to photograph.

liaising with couples.

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

“It’s really fun when you’re in the season, but after each shoot, you’re exhausted the next day,” she says. “Before a wedding I make sure I have a nice relaxing morning with nothing else on, so I can focus purely on the day.”

A TAST E OF T H E VI NE YARD

Some photographers might book forty or fifty weddings a season. Kelly says her sweet spot is thirty, as she can give her all, without getting burnt out.

“Most of all, I love telling the story of

From our unique terroir to your glass

someone’s wedding day,” she says. “For example, when grandma and grandpa arrive, still together, and they’re watching the

An intimate and unique opportunity to explore one Margaret River’s most exclusive and awarded estates.

wedding holding hands; I just love seeing those little moments.”

Then there’s the weirder ones.

“At a recent wedding a guy was taking photos, and we all thought he was a guest, but he wasn’t,” she says. “I chatted to the bride the next day and she asked if he was on my photography team. I told her I

Above inset: Kelly Harwood loves her job as a wedding photographer Top: Castle Bay is a special secluded beach for a wedding

Tour our immaculate Estate and gardens in an EV buggy as we guide you through a selection of critically acclaimed Parterre wines, deep within the vineyards from which they are created. thought he was one of the guests, and we both realised he was just a creepy guy.”

That’s one major benefit of having a private wedding venue!

“Meelup Farmhouse is my favourite venue

“I was shooting a couple on a bridge that happened to be covered in duck poo,” she says. “So I edited all the duck poo off to make the photo look way nicer.”

Kelly says editing is an artistic process

at the moment,” Kelly says. “It’s beautiful

that can take a lot of time and work. But to

and it has the vibe that I love; casual and a

her, doing a good job is important.

little bit quirky and country, with a chicken coop and cute rustic buildings to shoot.”

When a setting isn’t looking up to scratch,

“It’s someone’s wedding day, so you want the photos to be really special”, she says.

“And no unwanted guests of course.”

Kelly gets to work retouching the shot so it’s

To see more of Kelly’s photography head to

worthy of someone’s wedding day.

@kellyharwoodphotography on Instagram.

BOOK ONLINE frasergallopestate.com.au/cellar-door Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com | 41 493 Metricup Rd, Wilyabrup | Ph. 9755 7553

CAMPING EXPEDITIONS TO BORANUP & BEYOND IMAGES | Zac White

he Margaret River Region is globally recognised in equal parts for its famed surf breaks and top-notch chardonnays. But beyond the waves and the wine, the region packs a serious punch in natural diversity. Ancient caves, old growth karri and marri forests and inland river systems make camping expeditions truly rewarding if you’re chasing adventures off the beaten track.

Photographer Zac White spent a few days at Margaret River Retreat, connecting with nature and capturing some shots. His images reflect the gracious moments and simple pleasures of a camping holiday in the south west.

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Top: Margaret River Retreat offer everything you need for a sustainable stay. Glamping tents and self-contained studio accommodation Opposite: The Margaret River Region is a safe and affordable holiday for kids with loads of natureplay places to discover. It’s also never too long from A to B which is a plus if you’re running thin on patience with little backseat drivers.

Left: Driving through the Boranup Forest is a magical experience

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/

... beyond the waves and the wine, the region packs a serious punch in natural diversity / 44

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Right: Stay at the Alexandra Bridge campground and get direct access to the Blackwood River. *Note this site does not take bookings and is on a first come- first serve basis Below: An unsealed limestone road will take you along the coast of Conto cliffs

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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Guide to:

MARGARET RIVER REGION’S FARMERS’ MARKETS WORDS | Sarina Kamini

Small-scale food production plus sustainable and regenerative farming practices are a big part of what makes the local food economy in the Margaret River Region such a lure.

Get up close and personal with the people behind the produce at these regional farmers’ markets.

The Margaret River Farmers’ Market Every Saturday, 7.30am – 11.30am.

272 Bussell Highway, Margaret River.

Held on the TAFE grounds just south of the Margret River township on Bussell Highway, this market committee works hard to ensure authenticity and accessibility. Every market stall holder grows, produces or makes their products in the south west region. Jim and Di bring up seasonal fruit and veg from Manjimup, Michaela juices in summer and sells hot soups in winter, Marcelle heads up the local bakery team, Margaret sells her made-in-Cowaramup gold medal awardwinning butter and cheeses, and Teesha serves up dumplings. A Saturday morning here is an introduction to community as much as it is an opportunity to buy pickedyesterday produce.

The Shed Market Every Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. 12 Caves Road, Abbey.

Produce is the star at The Shed Market, but the market itself is an icon too. Chris and Donna Carlyle founded the market after an inspirational trip to South Africa where they visited an Earth Fair Food Market in Cape Town. They wanted to create somewhere with similar intimate community connections that celebrated a love of food. Arrive at The

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Fresh croissants and sweet treats are perfect pairing with your morning coffee

Busselton Foreshore Markets Every First, Third and fifth Sunday of the month From 7am to 1pm. Signal Park, Busselton Foreshore.

One of the few Sunday markets open for Shed hungry and head straight to Eat Street

low-key mornings in the south west, the

for a selection of on-the-spot dishes. Crowd

Busselton Foreshore Market is an even

favourites include healthy wraps from Mattia

spread between crafts, local art, clothing,

Italian Vibes, Reuben sandwiches and freshly

regional produce and a couple of great food

made juices. Tumeric lattes and choc turmeric

trucks. The location on the grass along the

lattes with southern forest honey are also

foreshore precinct is great for families. Take

delicious. The Shed markets also host

home a yummy freshly made cake, a newly

regular pop-up craft markets.

potted plant or a local painting.

Vasse Markets First and third Saturday of every month, 8am – Midday. Kaloorup Road, Vasse.

Run by a small collective of stall holders for more than 30 years, the Vasse Markets bring together hand-crafted goods with fresh produce, coffee and cakes. Visit Barb for one-off quirky animal aprons, trivet mats and

BOOK ONLINE

pot mitts. Leonie crafts jewellery. Pauline is a 15-year regular with a strong following for her cakes, pies, slices and pickles.

www.capementelle.com.au |

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Local producers sell fruit and veg at much lower prices at the Farmers’ Markets than you’d pay at the supermarkets

Dunsborough Central Markets Second and fourth Saturday of every Month

Left: Enjoy the sounds of local buskers at the Margaret River Farmers’ Markets.

from September – February. Selected dates through winter. Check the Facebook Page.

Held in the centre of Dunsborough at Lions Park, the Dunsborough Central Markets pushes a buy-local ethos. Fresh local produce is a

fresh produce and jumps into world food

and the locals love it that way. The Augusta

highlight, but the net also casts a little wider to

prepared by local vendors. At least 16 food

Community Markets reflect this close-knit

catch a bigger market in this centralised visitor

trucks cover all-manner of eats from Korean

and low-key vibe. The market is occupied by

location. Find wood products, books and

kimchi burgers to Chinese dumplings, vegan

a group of quirky farmers who know their

pictures among the honey, cheese, paté and

treats and wood-fired pizzas. Local bands

land and are only too happy to chat with

locally grown fruit and vegetables.

provide the back beat and drinks are on hand.

you about it. Produce here is incredible, and

The focus is on fun, affordable and yummy.

there’s also a showing from the local artistic

Margaret River Night Market

community with a range of crafts. And of

Select dates over summer, 5.30pm – 8.30pm.

Augusta Community Markets

course it couldn’t take place in the CWA car

Check Facebook page for dates and locations.

8am – midday, CWA car park, Allnut Terrace,

park if there weren’t outstanding cakes,

Augusta. An occasional market.

relishes and pickles for sale. The market days are irregular, so best bet is to talk to

An adjunct to the weekly Saturday morning

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Farmers’ Markets in the Margaret River

Augusta is one of the more relaxed

the visitor centre to find out scheduled

township, the night market leaps off from

townships in the Margaret River Region,

happenings.

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H OC EAN

A TAL E

T AND T

E

O

F

AR

One man’s quest to fuse his love of printmaking and fishing A carpenter woke up four years ago and decided he was going to catch a fish and print it.

The story didn’t end there. Adam Ashdown went on to become a successful artist - his prints representing the Australian male’s deep and robust affinity with fishing. Adam’s work will feature at the 2021 Margaret River Region Open Studios event.

WORDS | Sophie Mathewson IMAGES | Tim Campbell

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| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

A chippy turned artist from Dunsborough with a talent for printing your hero catch into a stunning work of art ready to hang, Adam Ashdown is self-taught in the practice of Gyotaku – a Japanese printing technique that requires sumi ink, a fish, and rice paper. Adam’s artwork is both beautiful and individual, and the process involved reveals multiple prints from a single fish – with the image becoming more and more detailed as the ink is slowly removed.

Adam was self-taught for a reason. There is little known about the ancient printing visitors to the region.

methods, and he learnt simply though trial

the time of interview, Adam was working

and error. Adam says “It started in Japan in

on a commissioned print from a fish that

the 1800s and at the end of the 1900s it

had been frozen for six weeks. So whether

to attend an event in Sydney for small

kind of went underground. These days you

you’re in Perth, Karratha or Dunsborough –

business owners. The event, called ‘The

can get a bit of information on the modern

he can arrange the print.

Gift Guide’ was run at the Facebook

Without trying very hard, Adam has

technique but as far as the traditional

Not long after that he was invited

headquarters in New South Wales and

methods go, it’s really – there’s your fish, you

stumbled on a bit of fame in the Margaret

when Adam was contacted to take part, he

put sumi ink on it, and wrap it in rice paper.”

River Region. Presenting at Gourmet Escape

couldn’t quite believe it was real. “They had

a couple of years back with Miki’s Kitchen

30 small businesses from around Australia

easier to print than a frozen one caught

head chef Mikihito Nagai, Adam garnered

– all regional, and they said we need you

the day earlier, but both can be done. At

the attention of international chefs and

in Sydney to represent these businesses so

According to Adam, your fresh catch is

MARGARET RIVER

EST. 1967

MARGARET RIVER’S FOUNDING WINE ESTATE Everyone is welcome to visit the renowned Vasse Felix Estate, which offers a range of experiences to immerse oneself in Margaret River’s wine, food, culture and history.

TASTING BAR • WINE LOUNGE • RESTAURANT • THE VAULT • ART GALLERY • TOURS Open Daily 10AM - 5PM Caves Road (Cnr Tom Cullity Drive), Cowaramup WA 6284

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Phone 9756 5000 Restaurant Reservations 9756 5050 Website vassefelix.com.au

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Interested in more art experiences?

TRY THESE NOTEWORTHY GALLERIES • John Miller Design: John Miller’s jewellery designs are some of the most creative and original handcrafted artworks. Like many artists in the region, John has a passion for the native Australian landscape, with plants and animals featuring predominantly on the statement jewellery.

• Payet Gallery: Tucked away on Boodjidup Road, Payet is a hidden gem. Stunning pottery, jewellery and photography are worth stopping in for.

• Jah Roc Gallery: Jah Roc has regular contemporary exhibitions and stocks a range of fine art, paintings, and sculptures. five or six of us flew over and we went to

thing was 86kg and if you can imagine it

Universal Studios. And this was all a week

being a big balloon on the print, so I had

from getting the phone call which was

to get the perspective right and take the

pretty loose. We flew to Sydney, then to

ink to a certain point on the fish then cut

Canberra and it was good getting out there

the fins off, print the fins separately, and

to the Eastern States.”

it turned into something like a 26 stage

line of designer furniture made from local materials. You’ll find the service and people at Jah Roc all part of the experience. Down to earth, salt of the earth types.

• The Studio Gallery: Art is always

print. The dory is a really flat fish so it’s

complemented by food and at the Studio

popular. To keep up with demand, Adam

more a matter of whacking on the ink

Gallery you can indulge in both. With the

sells prints and t-shirts, but most lovers

and taking the print, and they come up

of the sea will appreciate the originals –

really cool.”

It goes without saying, the artwork is

crafted hours after a great catch in the local

Despite the attention he’s had as an

gallery exhibiting award winning art pieces and the bistro offering an exciting menu in a warm and informal setting, this vibrant venue tucked away in Yallingup is a must.

waters of Geographe Bay. It’s a fantastic

artist, Adam, like most Aussie blokes, is

memento to remember your trophy catch.

modest about his achievements – still

And yes – you can still eat the fish after it’s

claiming that art is his side hustle while

first-rate comfort food, then follow up

been printed. Sumi ink is water based so it

managing Dad duties and his tradie work.

with a gallery walk-through checking out

washes off afterwards.

I asked Adam if he prefers a particular

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The gallery also sells its own exclusive

If you’ve got an interest in art or fishing, find Adam at this year’s Margaret River

• Goanna Gallery & Café: Dine in for

emerging local talent.

• Boranup Gallery: 20 minutes south of

type of fish to print. “Some fish to me are

Region Open Studios from September

Margaret River just past the Boranup Forest

quite boring. They’re just a shape with no

11th – 26th. His work is also on display

lookout point, is Boranup Gallery – home

scales. So there are fish that do come up

and sold at Blue Manna Bistro where you

to a collection of artworks from a range

better in a print. Some fish are also a lot

can enjoy the artwork and some of the

of mediums including wood and metal

more involved to print. I did a tuna – the

freshest seafood in the region.

sculpture, ceramics and glass.

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Fun, thrills, adventure & refreshing alcoholic beverages await you at our Breweries!

Brewpub 4259 Caves Rd, Wilyabrup.

– Taproom 44 Commerce Road, Vasse.

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In the early 1900s, keen adventurers struggled down a long swaying rope ladder in long skirts and suits to get to the entrance of Lake Cave.

Now, there are stairs and viewing platforms, which descend through the natural beauty of the doline, down to the small cave entrance.

ANCIENT OASIS Th e Et h er e al Lake Cav e WORDS | Sarah Robinson

T 54

he doline used to be a giant cavern.

Then the ceiling collapsed and

and to celebrate other special occasions.

people, and that strong connection with

Lake Cave is one of more than 100

the local caves continues today.” he says.

limestone caves beneath the Leeuwin-

“Archaeologists, working closely with local

laden with ferns, karris and wildflowers. It’s

Naturaliste Ridge. Lake Cave’s manager,

custodians, dug down more than four metres in

breathtaking, which is also how you’ll feel

Andrew Green, says there’s evidence that

the cave floor and found a series of fireplace

climbing the 325 stairs to the surface.

created an incredible sunken forest,

the Wadandi Noongar people used nearby

hearths that revealed some extraordinary

The suspended deck is the best spot to

caves to shelter in the cold winter months.

insights into the lives of the Wadandi.”

admire the sunken forest. The view takes in

“Archaelogical research in a nearby cave

European settlers first noticed the cave

the magnificent doline, which is probably

found evidence of more than 47,000 years

in 1867. A 16-year-old Frances Bussell was

why people choose the spot to get married,

of continuous use by the Pibbulmun Wadandi

searching for lost cattle when her horse

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

stopped suddenly at a forty-metre drop. The

One of Andrew’s favourite parts of the

Bussell family didn’t find the cave again for

cave is the Suspended Table; an impressive

thirty years.

sheet of flowstone held up by two columns.

Since opening to the public in 1901, Lake

The table formed when a slight rise in the

Cave has been something of a marvel to

acidity of the water caused a whole floor

people. Andrew says caving was going through

level to completely disappear beneath it.

a real boom at the time, and folk came from all over to explore caves in the region.

“People used to get a train from Perth to

“I’m in a local caving club and I go into caves that are out in the middle of nowhere,’ he says. “The Suspended Table,

Bunbury, then another one to Busso, then they’d

you just don’t see anything like that. Maybe

get a horse and cart from Busso to Caves House

a tiny version here and there, but a five and

in Yallingup, then another horse and cart to

a half tonne one, you just don’t see.”

Lake Cave,” he says. “It was a big deal.”

When you step into Lake Cave, your guide will tell you to duck carefully beneath Headache Rock. Once inside you’ll be met

Beneath the table, running through the chamber is the water the cave is renowned for; it’s not technically a lake though.

“It should be called Stream Cave,” he

with a sparkling crystal chamber, filled

says. ‘It’s the stream that just kept going. It

with delicate formations and of course, the

had everything thrown at it, even acidity.

tranquil body of water it is renowned for.

If you go back about a million and a half

At around one million years old, Lake Cave is relatively young for a cave. But that’s also what makes it so incredible.

“Those much older caves have often had

years ago, there would have been no limestone here at all.”

Andrew says the Lake Cave stream could have been flowing in pretty much the

events where there was soot blowing in

same spot, as a surface stream, for tens

or volcanic ash or just pollen and dust and

of millions of years. Then, in just the past

everyday stuff, which can make things look

million and a half years it was buried. But

a bit grey and mottled,” Andrew says. “In

that didn’t stop it. “It just kept flowing,’” he

large parts of Lake Cave you’ve got brand

says. “And that ancient stream is still here,

new crystal and you get that sparkling off

it’s just been mobbed by dune sand.”

the torch. In a fraction of the time, we’ve got

To explore Lake Cave for yourself, visit

more crystal in many cases, than caves that

margaretriverattractions.com and book a

are three or four hundred million years old.”

tour online.

SUNDAY, 6TH MARCH 2022 Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

www.augustariverfestival.com.au

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THE CALL of the SEA – A Guide to Sailing and Boating in the Margaret River Region The Margaret River Region is a boaties paradise. It’s home to some of the state’s most pristine water ways: the Blackwood River, Geographe Bay, and the Indian Ocean, and in all weather conditions there are myriad options for every kind of vessel. Whether you’re fishing, kayaking, sailing, or just taking the family out for the day, you’ll find a number of easy access points to enjoy the water.

WORDS | Tom De Souza

IMAGE Matt Deaken

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IMAGE Elements Margaret River

Geographe Bay One of the particular features that makes the Margaret River Region excellent for boating is the different orientations of its coastline.

Yes, it can be a windy coast, but no matter what way the wind is blowing there is always a sheltered nook somewhere.

In summertime the predominant winds are from the south. A typical pattern will see easterly winds blowing in the early morning before swinging to the south, and Geographe Bay offers respite from that sea breeze.

From Dunsborough, you can access the Bay from boat ramps at Old Dunsborough and Quindalup. In Busselton you can launch from ramps at Abbey, Broadwater, and Port Geographe.

Good hauls of whiting and squid can be found here in the summer months, with pink snapper occasionally making their way into the Bay in winter.

Geographe Bay also provides excellent anchorage for sailing boats in the warmer months, and the strong southerlies in summer also make for excellent sailing conditions.

The Bay is home to two sailing clubs: the Dunsborough Bay Yacht Club, and the Geographe Bay Yacht Club in Busselton.

Geographe Bay Yacht Club secretary,

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IMAGE Elements Margaret River

/

... no matter what way the wind is blowing there is always a sheltered nook somewhere /

Barry Brown, says the Bay is home to world

pearl luggers, Willie, a 67-foot Gaff Rig

Cod, and Harlequin Fish are available,

class sailing. Since 1987, Barry has raced

Schooner.

the primary target for most fishers is the

yachts at most of the local weekend regattas

Sailing Charters WA also skipper their

throughout the summer season, and says

41-foot Beneteau Oceanic cruising yacht

the conditions lend themselves to both the

around the Bay.

recreational and racing varieties of sailing.

“Geographe Bay for yacht racing is outstanding,” says Barry.

“It’s beautiful flat water most of the time,

From February through to May, Koomal

fish in the country, if not the world. A kind of Pearl Perch, it has succulent white flesh

Experience tour, with Aboriginal guide Josh

and can grow to one-metre and over 20kg.

Whiteland passing on stories of the local people and Country, and helping you to

variable. On any given day you could be

catch and cook your own lunch.

on the compass.”

Recreational fishers should be aware of all bag, size, and possession limits.

Those travelling without a boat can still

For those who aren’t into fishing but still

get onto a dhuey by jumping aboard one

want to sample some of WA’s finest seafood

of the region’s fishing charters. Leeuwin

produce, Blue Manna in Dunsborough offer

Marine Charters operate from Augusta, and

interesting to keep on reading the wind in a

outstanding seafood fine dining. Book ahead

Legend Fishing Charters from Dunsborough.

yacht race.”

though, it is popular!

Charters run from December to April, when

“It makes it more challenging and

the Indian Ocean is at its calmest and most

Those without a vessel or any kind of boating knowledge can still access a variety

Indian Ocean

of maritime experiences in Geographe

Much of the region’s offshore and nearshore

Bay, with a variety of charter companies

fishing is done along the western coast

locations on the west coast from Canal Rocks,

operating in the area.

of the region, between Cape Naturaliste

Gracetown, Gnarabup, Hamelin Bay, and the

and Cape Leeuwin. While good catches of

Augusta marina. Care should be taken at

demersal fish like Pink Snapper, Breaksea

all locations as most of these are exposed

Willie Pearl Lugger Cruises offer sailing in the Bay aboard one of WA’s last operating

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Dhueys, as they are colloquially known, is a WA fishing icon, and one of the best tasting

Dreaming offer their Djiljit Coastal Fishing

and the wind conditions are really quite sailing with wind directions from anywhere

endemic West Australian Dhufish.

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

accessible.

Those with a boat can access fishing

coastal ramps. Be aware of local tide, wind, and swell conditions, and any forecast change in conditions. Always ensure the appropriate safety gear is carried.

A $1.6 million upgrade has recently been completed on the Canal Rocks boat ramp. The jetty is now wheelchair accessible and the ramp has been made safer for launching and retrieving boats.

The Ngari Capes Marine Park also covers a range of different zones from Busselton to Augusta, and caters to a wide range of user groups from fishers, scuba divers, snorkelers, surfers, and kayakers. Maps of the marine park zones can be found at every coastal boat ramp.

Blackwood River For those seeking a quieter, family-friendly adventure, the Blackwood River is the perfect place. The Blackwood is the largest river in the south west, and begins its journey in the Wheatbelt, running all the way down to Margaret River and Augusta.

There are a number of spots where you can access the Blackwood, with boat ramps at Augusta, Sue’s Bridge, and Alexandra Bridge. All ramps have picnic facilities and make a great spot to take the family. There is also a water-skiing area at Twinems Bend.

Upriver around Alexandra Bridge is excellent for kayaking and paddle boarding, and the water here is usually calm.

If you’re fishing, try around the estuary for silver bream, whiting, and herring, or upriver for black bream. Crabbing is also popular and casting out some nets can secure boaties a satisfying dinner.

Cruising

DOWN SOUTH BOOK TODAY CRUISE OPTIONS BUSSELTON MORNING CRUISE

IMAGE Dylan Dehaas

Boarding at 8:45 with a departure at 9:00 from Busselton Jetty to Quindalup and back to Busselton Jetty via coach.

Coach transfer included.

Approx. 3 hours cruising Includes delicious morning tea

DUNSBOROUGH AFTERNOON CRUISE 12:30 Coach pickup from Busselton Jetty and other key Busselton & Dunsborough locations. Boat departing at 14:00 from Quindalup. Arrive back to Busselton Jetty by 18:30 via coach. Coach transfers included.

Approx. 4 hours Cruising Includes scrumptious canapés

A L S O A V A I L A B L E F O R P R I VAT E C H A R T E R S Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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(08) 9358 7799 • www.williecruises.com.au/booking

BIRDING BASICS: How to ID The Red Tailed Black Cockatoo

Time spent spotting the endangered and endemic forest red-tailed black cockatoo qualifies as a legitimate late note in the Margaret River Region. Rare to sight, tricky to photograph but beautiful to chance upon, it takes commitment, awareness and a little bit of luck to engineer your own close encounter. These local tips should help you along.

WORDS | Sarina Kamini IMAGES | Sean Blocksidge & Tim Campbell

WHERE TO SPOT THEM

and seeing them in flock is one of the most

Red-tailed black cockatoos favourite grub

stunning things,” says Augusta local, Carolyn

is the marri nut, which makes this a species

Tenardi, who walks daily in the bush behind

inclined to forest dwelling. Jarrah, marri

the Augusta football oval and BMX park,

and karri forests are their most obvious

a bit of reserve where the rare species

stomping grounds. And while the keen-

congregate to chatter and feed. “In spring

eyed driver will be sure to spot at least

that bushland is a mass of wild flowers. And

a few small flocks on a road trip from

every day I see Carnaby’s and forest red-

the Margaret River township to Nannup

tails. They are treasures.”

- flanked as the road is by national park even small tree groves closer to regional

HOW TO FIND THEM

towns can be prime spotting zones.

Tune your ears. The cry of the forest red-

The square of bush in the Margaret River

and harsh ‘karee’ or ‘kra-raak’. A little bit

and Railway Terrace can prove a hot spot.

of familiarity with the call means you’ll

A walk along the trail in the A-class reserve

hear a flock long before you see it. Early

of Nguraren Kalleep just north of town is an

morning and early evening around watering

opportunity for a red-tailed interaction. As

holes in farm paddocks, or forest-bracketed

is a walk through the Carters Road trails.

waterways, are typical spots to hear a call.

The bushland around Gracetown is a

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

And don’t just look up: using marri nuts to

frequent red-tailed black cockatoo feeding

identify red-tailed feeding zones is easier

and nesting ground too, and the forest trails

than it might sound. Alongside the white-

around Rosabrook rarely disappoint bird

tailed Carnaby and Baudin’s black cockatoos,

enthusiasts.

the south-west red-tails have a distinctive

Trails into bushland around the Augusta

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tailed black cockatoo is a distinctive, loud

town between Clarke Road, Boodjidup Road

bite when munching their favourite meal

township are also favourite spotting zones

- marri nuts that have been chewed out

for local birders: “I absolutely love them

from the bottom indicate red-tailed feeding

Keep an eye out while travelling and slow speeds at sightings.

RED-TAILED VS WHITE-TAILED You’ll find cockatoos everywhere in the south west. They make all kinds of beautiful sounds and their differences can be marked or subtle. One you realise these differences, you won’t stop noticing them.

Forest red-tailed black cockatoos are a different species with different habitat preferences to the two white-tailed black cockatoo species, the Carnaby and Baudin’s cockatoos. Notice the differences when you are observing birds in the wild.

SAY ‘CHEESE’ Getting the best red-tailed photographs is a subtle business. “It’s a game of patience,” says Sean Blocksidge, known cocky spotter and tour operator in chief at the Margaret River Discovery Co. “I’ve definitely been sitting under a tree for 20 minutes, at least, waiting for one to fly.”

The forest red-tailed black cockatoos are

territory. Carnaby and Baudin’s take a top-

more reticent than Carnaby or Baudin’s

down approach.

cockatoos when it comes to posing, and

TAIL FEATHER ID

spook more easily. Their preferred forest

Block red tail feathers indicate mature

habitat can also make them hard to capture.

males. Females and juveniles have narrow

But there are a few tricks.

“The canoe’s a ripper because they don’t

bands of orange and yellow on the tail feathers; they also have pale yellow spots

strike. It’s worth noting that seeding of

seem to care if you’re drifting along on the

on the head and wings, and yellow-orange

spring and summer grasses often draws

canoe,” says Sean. “Or straight out of the car

barring on the breast. Finding the showy

flocks to roadsides in the hotter months.

window. Don’t get out of the car.”

tail feathers on forest tracks is a dream for red-tailed fanatics, but it’s a game of chance.

Some people say red-tails drop their soughtafter feathers at roost sites. Others say they drop them at their watering holes.

KEEPING THEM SAFE Recognised as a threatened species and listed as fauna ‘likely to become extinct’ in the wild under the Wildlife Conservation Act 1950, protection of forest red-tailed black cockatoo habitat is key to reversing declining numbers.

Protection of vegetation to ensure continued nesting hollows and feeding zones is vital, but so is reduction in preventable death and injury from things like vehicle

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WORDS | Danielle Costley

Joyfully Nostalgic

B eac h H o u s e s

Whether you are travelling on a budget or looking for somewhere more luxurious for your next getaway to the Margaret River Region, here is a list of some of our favourite beachside homes that will leave you with memories of sandy toes, salty chips, sunscreen, and endless sunsets.

The Break Margaret River Beach Houses The Dunes Apartment at The Break Beach Houses, is a stylish one-bedroom studio in Prevelly and an ideal getaway for singles or couples, with a private outdoor area and BBQ. Best of all, this private escape is located directly across the road from Prevelly Beach, where endless sunsets await. The world-famous Surfers Point is a leisurely 10-minute stroll away. Or walk the Cape to Cape track which is at your doorstep.

Prices start from $165pn

LOW-COST – MID RANGE

These two-bedroom rammed earth

Fragrant Harbour

Siesta Park Holiday Resort

seaside villas offer stunning panoramic

This four-bedroom, four-bathroom coastal

This family-friendly beachfront resort offers

views over the pristine Smith’s Beach,

property is situated on Gnarabup ridge,

cabins, villas and chalets, and is nestled

which is a mere 200m stroll away. Each

capturing spectacular views of the Indian

between Busselton and Dunsborough. The

villa is self-contained with a balcony.

Ocean. It has a stunning Balinese resort

kids will love the adventure playgrounds that

There are family-friendly grassed

style swimming pool with an outdoor

includes a flying fox, Tarzan swing, tennis and

areas and BBQ facilities where you

entertaining area, wood fire, trampoline

basketball courts. There is also a private jetty

can unwind after exploring the nearby

and hammock. This is a place designed

for fishing and crabbing, and a boat ramp

Cape to Cape track, Canal Rocks, or the

for entertaining, with a gourmet kitchen

that’s suitable for crafts up to 5.5-metres.

Injidup Natural Spa.

featuring all the modern conveniences.

Prices start from $175pn

Prices start from $150pn

Prices start from $550pn for two people

Flinders Bay House

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Chandlers Smiths Beach Villas

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Flinders Bay House

Turner Holiday Park Chalets

Geographe Bay. Downstairs has a luxury

Augusta might be famous for its

bathroom and laundry while upstairs has

lighthouse at the tip of the Cape, and

two bedrooms, one with a king bed, electric

for the stingray family at Hamelin Bay,

blankets and flat screen tv, and another

but you’ll equally fall in love with the

bedroom with four single beds.

riverside banks of the Blackwood River.

Rates at approx. $200 - $300 pn

Modern chalets at Turner Holiday Park are right on the riverfront where you can

LUXURY

follow walkways to the Augusta Hotel for a meal, go supping on the water, and

Flinders Bay House, Augusta

generally feel a sense of nostalgia for

Step inside this Hamptons-inspired,

simple holiday pleasures.

magnificent seaside home in Augusta that

Prices start from $210pm mid-week

oozes nostalgia and seaside serenity with its sweeping ocean views and balconies

Mandalay Holiday Resort Spa Villas

overlooking Flinders Bay. Comfortably

Eternal sunshine on a spotless bay.

accommodating 12 people, with its five-

The original villas at Mandalay Holiday

bedrooms, six-bathrooms and various living

Resort overlook lush lawn which leads

areas, it also has a serene conservatory

to the white sands and blue waters of

where you can curl up with a book and

Stay in our air conditioned 2 storey spa villas, chalets, beach cottages & cabins or enjoy the comfort of caravan, camping & motorhome sites with private ensuites.

Pet friendly caravan & camping sites.

Giant waterslide · Heated indoor pool Games room · 4 playgrounds Jumping pillow · Glamping tents FREECALL · 1800 248 231 Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com | 63 mandalayresort.com.au

Sea House

capture the morning sunlight.

Prices start from $6,995 (minimum three-night stay)

Redgate House, Redgate This stunning contemporary holiday house sits high on the Leeuwin Ridge, with breathtaking ocean views and is ensconced by natural bushland. With four-bedrooms and three-bathrooms, this passive solar home is ideally suited for families or groups to share in comfort. It is close to Redgate Beach for a swim or surf. A tennis court, open wood fire, and outdoor entertaining hub completes

Redgate House

the package. There is no WIFI, for those who really want to get away from it all.

Prices start from $2,395 (three-night

Its numerous terraces provide many options

Yallingup Beach. With a capacity to sleep

minimum off peak)

for alfresco entertaining, with an expansive

10 people, it is suitable for families or large

paved patio, lap pool and outdoor spa.

groups. The choice of living spaces allows

Wilderness Rise, Prevelly

Prices start at $4,195 (minimum three-night

two families to share in comfort. There is

This luxurious four-bedroom residence

stay off peak)

also an outside lawn area, games room, and a spacious balcony where you can drink in

is perched high atop eight-hectares of

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native bush, overlooking Prevelly Beach in

Sea House, Yallingup

the magnificent views.

Margaret River. It is peaceful and secluded,

This four-bedroom, three-bathroom stylishly

Prices start from $2,795 (three-night

with the Margaret River Golf course nearby.

appointed beach house is nestled above

minimum stay off peak)

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Cellar Door & Vineyard Kitchen 3277 Caves Road, Wilyabrup Open 7 days 10am - 5pm 08 9755 6225 www.clairaultstreicker.com.au/visit

BUSSELTON When you visit Busselton, you join a long history of holiday-makers who’ve imparted a unique character on this vibrant beach town.

So many families have made memories here, and people return throughout their lives to recreate them for the next generation. While the town itself has grown, what’s important here remains true: holidays are rituals, and they are essential to our lives.

Ritual in Busselton centres around the 1.8 kilometre Busselton Jetty, nostalgic in its original timber build. Morning strolls along it take you out to sea, from where you look back in awe and appreciation. Revellers fish, crab, boat and swim in the waters that surround it, and share in what they reap. These are the timeless activities that holidays in Busselton are made of. There’s a sense that these things are preserved here, even as new buildings and precincts form and the event calendar proliferates, full of artistic and cultural glory. Busselton gives so much, and its joys are passed from parent to child, local to visitor, person to person. And so the timeless value of holidaying lives on.

Busselton. Pass it on.

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BUSSELTON HIGHLIGHTS Busselton’s city precinct and foreshore offers the perfect fusion of coastal and city life. Spend the morning perusing quality BUSSELTON JETTY

shops, cafes and pubs along Queen Street, then, find perfect views of the famous jetty and of breaching whales along the foreshore where playgrounds, skateparks,

Jetty Train Tours Dive Busselton Jetty

and eateries abound.

BUS

ORE

Skate Park

Playground

Jetty has always been the centre of activity Equinox Restaurant and Bar

in this vibrant beach town. Along its 1.8 kilometre timber piling and in the waters beneath, locals and holiday-makers alike

Shelter Brewing Co

SIGNAL PARK

walk, fish, swim and snorkel.

MAR

INE

TC E Esplanade Hotel

Merenj Boodja (bush garden)

Crafty Pints: Busselton is the unoffcial home

Artgeo Gallery

Artgeo Complex

of craft beer in the south west, with urban,

Weld Theatre

QUE

seaside and bush-block breweries - all of

T EN S

which welcome the whole family - offering up a taste of the region’s best.

20 min 1.4 km

Free Events: The event capital of Western Australia, Busselton has a calendar packed

Fat Duck Cycles & Espresso

full of arts, cultural and sporting events,

Bistro Breton Zen Body Massage Hillzeez Down South Surf Shop Phil Hollett Gallery Fusion Jewellers

from South West Craft Beer Fest to the

Busselton Central Shopping Centre

iconic Busselton Jetty Swim.

Orana Cinema

ArtGeo Cultural Complex: This is where Busselton’s art and heritage meet; artists’ studios and wander galleries and

ESH

The Gosling Food Trailer

Busselton Jetty: Built in 1865, the Busselton

experience historical tours, witness working

FOR TO N SEL

BUS

SELL

Busselton Books

HWY

To Dunsborough

exhibitions.

Geographe Bay: The seclusion and safety To Perth

of Geographe Bay defines holidays in Busselton free enjoyment of life’s simple pleasures. From exploring rock pools and sand-castle-making, to long walks with the dog and fishing escapades.

TOWN MAP Fish or Eat Fish: Holidays in Busselton impart new skills, hobbies and memories, generation on generation. Fishing, crabbing and boating are just some of the unique experiences that holidays are made of here; and if you don’t catch anything, there’s always the quintessential fish and chips on the foreshore!

Visitors Centre

Gallery

Restaurant

Supermarket

Café

Pedestrian/cycle path

Bar

Dining/shopping precinct

Gift Shop

Green Space

Tales & Trails / 67

Craft Froths & Good Nosh: Eat, Drink Busselton

Gone are the days of any food-centric soul or beer aficionado bypassing Busselton, with the town’s culinary map growing into new and delicious territory.

WORDS & IMAGES | Taya Reid

Busselton has long been linked with a host

before wine o’clock. Fresh loaves roll out the

Gather

of memorable experiences dominated by

door at Baked on Queen Street, and more

Shelter Brewing Co seems to emit light

salt water, long jetty walks and postcard

than a few jam donuts. At the Good Egg,

from within, and it’s not surprising given

sunsets, but it’s the emerging food scene

you can be upstairs in a shared workspace

the venue’s prime position on the Busselton

gaining the Geographe Bay hub some

trying not to drip egg yolk on your laptop, or

foreshore, with floor to ceiling glass and

attention of late. There’s a sunlit brewery

downstairs with the kids and buttermilk fried

clever minimal design making way for that

glinting proudly on the foreshore, more

chicken waffles on your plate.

famous view. Shelter is a love letter to

For all day indulgence, there’s a hint of

Busselton from two local families firmly

addicts and perfect runny-egg hunters, and

Brittany in every French buckwheat crêpe

entrenched in the hospitality scene, the

the under-construction jewel in Busselton’s

at Bistro Breton. The menu is holiday

Credaros and the Packard-Hairs. As a result,

foodie crown, the Origins Market.

grade satisfying from Croque Monsieur

the community vibe is palpable in the

to prosciutto with Margaret River Region

warmth of the service, and Shelter’s family

Rise

raw honey, or salted butter caramel and

forward atmosphere.

The real measure of a chef is in the basics;

Chantilly cream. Forget what I said earlier,

sourdough, poached eggs, cinnamon scrolls.

because you can BYO the sparkling wine

signature beers and a cider on tap every

Busselton has a number of ways to test that

haul from your Caves Road adventures if

day including pale ales, sours and lager.

theory with a coffee in hand if you’re in town

you like your Francophilia with a kick.

Shelter also delivers regular feature beers

than a few premium choices for caffeine

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Brewed before your eyes, there are five

AT PULLMAN BUNKER BAY RESORT AT PULLMAN BUNKER BAY RESORT

Shelter has transformed the culture of the Busselton foreshore precinct

in short runs, with concepts and flavours

SOAK UP THE UP THE MARGARET RIVER SOAK REGION'S MARGARET BEST OCEAN VIEW RIVER REGION'S BEST OCEAN VIEW In the restaurant or bar, dining at Pullman the Moon Restaurant is an experienceOther full ofSide localofflavour. & Bar, dining at Pullman is an experience full of local flavour.

Breakfast, lunch & dinner The Social Hour, daily from 3-5pm Spring whale watching Breakfast, lunch & dinner Weddings &The private Socialevents Hour, daily from 3-5pm Weddings & private events

inspired by childhoods spent in Busso, and the local sights and sensations. An Italian pizza oven dominates the kitchen, which serves up simple share style seasonal fare. With wine-soaked local mussels and a crunchy pomegranate and buckwheat

42 Bunker Bay Road (off Cape Naturaliste Road) NATURALISTE 6281Bay Road (off Cape Naturaliste Road) 42WA Bunker

NATURALISTE WA 6281

pumpkin salad up for grabs, it’s not all chips and burgers, but of course, you can have those too.

If you’re leaving the kids at home The Fire Station is a well-established favourite with locals, boasting a vast revolving list of boutique wine and craft beer, and live music most Saturdays. If that variety isn’t enough,

OUR WORLD IS OUR WORLD IS YOUR PLAYGROUND YOUR PLAYGROUND

the Rocky Ridge cellar door features taps of over 25 stalwarts and limited releases Tales & Trails 69 Available on the/ margaretriver.com app Accor Live |Limitless

Left: Origins will open its doors in spring, 2021 Below: The Good Egg delivers great food and service and is a favourite with Busselton locals

to dizzy and delight you. They’ve buddied up with LS Merchants to ensure those who prefer grape to grain are satisfied, too.

Margaret River Burger Co standby to feed you while you make your difficult beverage decisions.

Immerse Opening November 5th 2021 on the edge of the Wonnerup Vasse Wetlands, is a project that promises to be the sparkling city’s produce and product mecca. Commissioned

by Allan Erceg of Mandoon Estate, the Origins Market has been carefully designed to celebrate and exhibit the rich food and wine culture of Western Australia, and concentrate it in one beautifully thoughtful space. Curator Louise Cashmore has been deliberate in her goal to reflect the abundant generosity of the wetlands ecosystem, a prime source of community and supermarket of sorts to traditional owners, the Wadandi people.

With the blessing of Wadandi elders, the market is built on the pillars of the six seasons, and vendors may stay seasonally as their produce permits. Punters will

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| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

wander through the indoor market’s ‘enjoy

grew up here and we want that feeling to

FURTHER AFIELD: Once you’ve sampled

now’ or ‘take home’ precincts including food

come through what we’re offering.”

your way through Shelter and Rocky Ridge,

Whether you’re seeking a feast with a

trucks, fruit and veg, speciality butchers,

head on down the road to Black Brewing Co

seafood, pop up cellar doors, condiments

spectacular view, a plethora of craft beer, or

in Wilyabrup for some more locally brewed

and coffee. The University of Western

a delectable hand-held breakfast en route to

froths on the deck. Wander the gardens,

Australia will install a live beehive in the

the wineries, Busselton is flourishing in its

soak up some live music and get your chops

venue, while a cloud kitchen will ensure the

food renaissance and won’t disappoint.

around a signature gin cured salmon tostada.

market’s inhabitants have space to trade and prepare their offerings.

Louise says Busselton’s food revival hinges on a willingness to collaborate; “It’s absolutely evolving. The City of Busselton has changed quite a lot with progressive leadership. What’s been exciting is how many businesses are keen to cooperate. For example, a micro dairy will be launched at Origins and the gelato vendors will be able to use that milk. Stall holders can support each other in an immediate way. It’s a builtin network of likeminded people.”

Shelter Brewing Co will be there, and rumour has it there will be regular bike tours between the two venues. The market will bring together artisans, farmers, small producers and boutique WA products that wouldn’t otherwise reach a wide audience.

Origins Operations Manager Sam Moore says, “Busselton isn’t a place to bypass anymore. The market is a drawcard for visitors but also a place to gather for locals.”

Shelter’s head brewer, Jason Credaro, agrees. “The community aspect is vital. We

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andrew@southwestluxurytransport.com.au Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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South West Luxury Transport

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DUNSBOROUGH Dunsborough epitomises effortless coastal living. There’s something unique about the way we relate to nature here; there’s no separation between it and us. Morning swims set the day’s pace, the arms of the bay stretching out to embrace you in its crystal clear, sheltered waters. Unchecked time to lose yourself among the boutiques is followed by lunch – whether on-the-go or drawn out over a long table with friends – the whole affair framed by native bushland and rolling vineyards. Nature is a backdrop to life here, a constant reminder of one’s privilege – to be here is to be lucky, and to feel it deeply, intimately within your bones. What might feel extravagant elsewhere, feels fitting here; sailing down the pristine coastline, or a grazing board on the beach at sunset, wind-sculpted granite rocks glowing pink around you. Here, nature calls to be indulged in, wondered at, grounded in the immense natural beauty of your surrounds.

It is the conduit through which you get closer to the beauty of life itself.

Dunsborough. Indulge in grounded beauty.

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TU NA

D UNS BOROUGH

RA

To Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse

B EACH

LI ST E

Yahoo Surfboards

PE TE

Bay Village Resort & Spa

LIONS PARK Nina’s Jewellery

RD

Peko Peko

Dunsborough Bakery

Y BA

RD

SquidLips Fish & Chips

PH

LIS

Yar ri

Blue Manna Bistro

CENTENNIAL PARK

RA

SEYMOUR PARK

Christian Fletcher Gallery

OG

RA

Naturaliste Charters

South West Boats & Bikes

GE

TU NA HayDay B&B

10 min 0.6 km

C ET

CA

Bike Shed Dunsborough

Hillzeez Occy’s

RD D U N N B AY

To Quindalup Boat Ramp

ShoeBeDoo Dunsborough Cellars

CAVES RD

To Margaret River

DUNSBOROUGH HIGHLIGHTS Dunsborough town centre is a coastal community located within walking distance from Geographe Bay but with a distinctly different vibe offered at the shopping district than at the casual beachfront. The town is bursting with bakeries, bars and fashion boutiques while the beach is perfect for a bike ride and a splash in

TOWN MAP Visitors Centre Restaurant Café Bar

the turquoise waters.

Yallingup: Yallingup is surrounded by

Picturesque Drinking & Dining:

the ruggedly beautiful Leeuwin-Naturaliste

Elevated casual is Dunsborough’s

National Park. Here the calm waters of

definition of meal time – restaurants,

Geographe Bay give way to a dramatic

wineries and breweries offer a taste of

coastline, famous for its surf breaks. So

the region’s best, with nature’s beauty

good are the waves here, pro surfer Taj

the backdrop.

Burrow calls it home.

Gift Shop Gallery Accommodation Supermarket Pedestrian/cycle path

Intimate Moments: Intimacy takes on Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse: A casual 59

new meaning here – whether you’re

Dining/shopping precinct

steps to the top of this working lighthouse

travelling solo or as a couple, family or

Green Space

rewards visitors with panoramic views of

friends, there’s a sense of seclusion and

the Indian Ocean and Meelup Regional Park.

natural indulgence in Dunsborough that draws you closer to what’s important.

Ngilgi Cave: An ancient and sacred place, Ngilgi Cave is the site of an Aboriginal

Boutique Shopping: From handmade

creation story that’s shared with visitors by

wares and art to clothing and jewellery,

Traditional Owner Josh Whiteland (Koomal

shopping here isn’t an exercise in excess

Dreaming). The resonating silence and

but a way of getting into the rhythm of

intricacy inside the cave leaves its mark on

Dunsborough’s alluring lifestyle.

all who bear witness.

Tales & Trails / 73

Explore

DOWNTOWN DUNSBOROUGH WORDS | Lizzy Pepper

Darling Dunsborough, the jewel on

Cafe cruising

Geographe Bay, scored some superb

coffee alongside more substantial brekkies

What’s new on the caffeine scene? Tiny

new eating options this year. A couple of

such as eggs benedict, nasi goreng and

Coffee on Clark is still tiny but has grown

excellent coffee shops, a sleek new watering

house made granola. It’s also fantastic for

in popularity. They make excellent coffee

hole and burger joint, plus the prettiest

lunch.

quickly from this hole-in-the-wall spot, with

doughnuts you ever did see. Go back to your

Also try: Wild & Woods, Evviva Café, Kona

a small selection of cookies. Local

beloved holiday haunts and try some of the

Joe’s Health Shack.

(@localdunsborough) promises ‘bites by the

new soon-to-be-favourites too.

Dotted amongst the cafes and bars are a bevy of boutique shops, perfect for picking up some holiday delights.

Dunsborough’s best breakfasts Artezen is a long-time favourite for brekkie, with irresistible crepes and French toast.

Soak up the sunshine if you can snag a table out the front and watch the world go by.

They’re also licensed and serve lunch.

Yarri Mornings was one of the sweetest pirouettes of 2020; they started serving glazed donuts and jaffles for breakfast on Saturdays. The donut menu changes daily but look out for Anzac and pumpkin pie donuts – they’re simply divine.

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Mealup has fresh croissants and Yahava

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

beach’ and coffee made from Commonage

not your coffee order. Try the peanut butter

Coffee Co beans.

chocolate frogs - the best!

Merchant & Maker are looking fresh as ever with a reno last year. The coffees are

Lunch on the run, or in the sun

still killer, as are the salads, giftware and

Dunsborough Bakery is the place to refuel

take-home meals in jars.

after a surf – grab a pie and a jam donut and

Yallingup Coffee Roasting Company got lucky with an awesome new nature

you’ll feel like the luckiest person in town.

Peko Peko serves up tasty sushi, rice

playground Djiljit Mia going in next door,

paper rolls (try the carrot ginger dipping

mid-2020. Grab a takeaway coffee, read

sauce), soups and noodles. They’re also open

interpretive signage to find out how

dinner to dine in or takeaway.

Wadandi people caught fish in the bay, and watch the kids play.

Hot Chocolatte is still a fabulous treasure

You’ll love Occy’s for their brilliant tap beer list, beaut burgers and the fact you can

WINNER

BEST CASUAL DINING THE WEST AUSTRALIAN GOOD FOOD GUIDE 2019

sip a frothy in the sunshine watching kids

trove of coffee, chocolate and lollies. Visit

play on the lawn and people coming and

twice and they’ll remember your name, if

going in Dunsborough. It’s dog friendly too, and open for dinner. Bookings recommended.

Not strictly Downtown Dunsborough, Clancy’s Fish Pub makes the list as it’s a 10-minute walk from town, yet feels like you’re in the country, looking over the lush valley. Check out their Cape to Cape Tap List featuring a beer from every local brewery.

Open for lunch and dinner.

Also try: Blue Manna, Merchant & Maker.

Dinner in Dunsborough Bungalow Neighbourhood Social – New(ish) to downtown Dunsborough, Bungalow Neighbourhood Social have been well embraced. Craft beer, natural wine, wood fired pizza with a Euro vibe and great service.

Yarri is a smart restaurant loved for their lunch and dinner service. Chef Aaron

OPEN SEVEN DAYS – VISIT BUNKERSBEACHHOUSE.COM.AU FOR TIMES AND MENU OFFERINGS.

Book now at

BUNKERSBEACHHOUSE.COM.AU | 08 9756 8284 Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com | 75 FARM BREAK LANE, BUNKER BAY, WA 6281

seafood around, with luscious oysters, whole fish, crab and prawns arriving daily.

You can also buy fresh takeaway seafood at their shop next door. Book ahead to avoid missing out.

Pedro’s Mexican keeps getting better, with big flavours and even bigger cocktails. Dig into well known faves like guacamole, chilli con queso, nachos and burritos or try their take on Tex Mex with char grilled zucchinis stuffed with flavoursome fillings of your choice. Family friendly and they offer takeaway too.

Bayside Burger Bar serves up burgers, beers, milkshakes and fries with a nod to the region’s surfing history. Burgers are named after famous surf breaks, and this is Carr prepares thoughtful food that honours

an awesome place to take the family for an

the seasons, and it’s served with Snake +

easy meal after a big day out.

Herring wine.

Blue Manna is a well-loved favourite

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| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Boutique Shopping

by locals. Next door to Yarri, it shares a

It’s a treat having the time to browse the

beautiful view of the peppermint trees

boutiques and pick up a new dress or

over Dugalup Creek. They have the freshest

denim, a piece of art or locally made soaps.

Dunsborough’s dotted with locally owned

and designer dresses. And Hillzeez has

and operated boutiques, and it’s a pleasure

your summer beach hangs sorted, with

supporting these small businesses.

swimwear, towels, sunnies and everything

There’s plenty to explore, but check out

you’d expect in a quality surf shop.

these favourites. Corynne’s Natural Skincare

Nina’s Jewellery helps make a holiday

is a little further out of town on Commonage

extra special; make it a memorable getaway

Road, but worth the short drive for the

with a beautiful piece of jewellery. Likewise,

handmade soaps scented with lovely natural

Christian Fletcher Gallery captures glorious

oils and other lovely gifts.

south west scenes in his award-winning

One Palm clothing is designed in the

photography, so you can gaze at Meelup

south west, and their boutique features

Beach, Yallingup or Eagle Bay on your wall

great clothes, accessories and travel goods.

for years to come. Nathan Day Designs,

Shoebedoo has shoes and accessories for

master craftsman of impeccable wooden

every occasion, taking you from casual

furniture has his workshop in Vasse, but you

beach sandals to stylish wedding heels.

can get inspiration by admiring his custom

Milk is the place to go for amazing denim

made blackbutt tables at Yarri.

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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77

Reset in

QUIET QUINDALUP With sweeping peppermint trees and a relaxed coastal feel, Quindalup offers the chance to reset and recharge.

WORDS | Suzanne Srdarov

NAMED FOR THE Quenda, the Noongar term for the shy and elusive marsupial native to the area, Quindalup is located along Caves Road between Busselton and Dunsborough.

Nestled into the long curve of Geographe Bay, Quindalup is roughly 250 kilometres from Perth making it a very doable twoand-a-half-hour drive.

Cape Naturaliste forms a spectacular natural barrier between the Indian Ocean and Geographe Bay, giving boaters, fishers, swimmers, and marine life a safe haven and year-round calm waters. A protected, natural

78

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Above left and right: Uncrowded, sigh-inducing beaches perfect for supping or a stroll Above right: Spotting a whale flipper or a tail is a common site in the Quindalup waters

wonderland for families and ocean lovers of

DAY TWO

all ages, Quindalup is within close reach of the best of the Margaret River Region.

Settle in and make the most of your Quindalup stay – here’s your guide.

Morning: Set sail with Willie Cruises from Busselton Jetty and take in the beauty of the Quindalup coastline on one of the last

DAY ONE

operating pearl luggers. The experienced crew do all the hard work so you can sit

Morning:

back and enjoy complimentary morning tea

The summer months in Quindalup are

and a fully licensed bar.

perfect for beachcombing. Geographe Bay

Looking for a bit more action?

is roughly 10 kilometres of flat, sugar-

Dunsborough Jetski Tours depart from

white sand beach and transparent waters,

Quindalup boat ramp and offer one or two

making it perfect for a beach walk and

hour guided tours of the Geographe Bay

a dip. Head north along Geographe Bay

coastline. It’s safe, fun, and a guaranteed hit

towards Busselton and reach the mouth of

with thrill-seekers and nature lovers

freshwater estuary Toby’s Inlet where it

as young as 12.

spills into the ocean – in spring you might find the inlet still fast flowing and teeming

Afternoon:

with life from the winter rains. Or warm up

Smooth afternoons in Quindalup are the

and walk or cycle the beach path that winds

time to get on that stand-up paddleboard,

through the bush and leads all the way into

and go cruising with the stingrays.

Dunsborough.

Snorkelling, crabbing, fishing from the beach

Quindalup is also popular with whales,

or a tinny, or one of the many launches

easy to spot resting in the bay on their

moored in the bay during summer are big

journey south. The calm waters offer

drawcards.

sanctuary for humpback, southern right

Kids can safely play in the shallows while

and rare blue whales on their migration,

adults kick back and watch the sunset with

particularly mothers and their calves.

a glass of something cold. Locals are known

Naturaliste Charters offer whale watching

for happily sharing

tours departing morning and afternoon

the shade under their beach canopies,

from Quindalup beach, from September to

making it fun and festive. One local has

December.

taken this even further, floating a picnic-

A small complex of unique self-contained holiday homes situated opposite the Busselton Foreshore and a short walk to the famous Busselton Jetty

table bar in the shallows – a very popular

Afternoon:

addition to the bay.

Dunsborough Bay Yacht Club overlooking Quindalup beach is popular with boaties and non-boaties alike. Meet family and friends in the upstairs clubhouse for a sundowner, and check-in with the club calendar or Facebook page for an up-to-date schedule of events. Early birds can also start their day here with yoga, held three times a week.

Not a yachtie? Then jump in the car and head out to local Quindalup vineyard and winery, Blind Corner on Vasse-Yallingup Siding Road. Visitors to the cellar door can book tastings of their range of organic and biodynamic wines, or take a peek behind the scenes in the fermenting rooms and explore the vines.

Where to stay Bayshore Beachside Resort units and Whitesands Holiday Villas are both located directly across from the beach on Geographe Bay Road and offer a range of villas.

For budget conscious travellers, the Dunsborough Youth Hostel has direct beach access and was once an 1800s schoolhouse.

Get yourself to Quindalup for some quality time-out in the turquoise waters of Geographe Bay.

94 Marine Terrace Busselton busseltonjettychalets.com Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com | 79 (08) 9752 3893 / 0477 999 362

MARGARET RIVER Margaret River is a productive place that’s been known for generations, and generations before that.

The Margaret River that is synonymous with the town has been a vital life source here for the Wadandi people for tens of thousands of years. Its essence flows through the earth into the vines and trees, trickles down to the caves and washes out to meet with the salt water at the crest of foamy waves. This is a place that brings people together. Many have trodden in the footsteps of the early agricultural and viticultural visionaries, while others have found new ways to make a living here. These are people who are bound tightly by a love for where they live, and who are devoted to caring for the land.

The town itself is bursting with vibrant energy, dedicated music venues, public street art and fine dining.

Explore further and you’ll find a kaleidoscope of open ocean, towering forests and undulating countryside, punctuated by cellar doors and galleries. Foodies can appreciate the revolution of farm to table eating, and adrenaline seekers can find themselves breathless in the surf or biking world class trails.

Margaret River. Inspired by nature.

80 / Tales & Trails

To Cowaramup

CA RT ER

Margaret River Distilling Company

S RD

Margaret River Brewhouse

MARGARET RIVER HIGHLIGHTS

ROTARY PARK

MA

It comes as a surprise to some visitors that

disappoints. There is an indelible buzz to the town centre with a mix of artisan stores and galleries,

Jah Roc Galleries Swings and Roundabouts Margaret River

good selection of retail shops.

Wineries & Gourmet Dining: Margaret

Margaret River Liquor Merchants Margaret River Artisan Store

River’s fertile environment gives way and produce that good chefs dream of.

Hillzeez Down South Surf Shop

The Village at Margs

Artful Ink Tattoo Studio Margs

and sheer height of the Karri trees

Margaret River Hotel

in Boranup Forest inspire awe in

Miki’s Open Kitchen Retyre Shoes

even the hardest of hearts, marking

Mammoth Cave: The ancient cave system that exists within Margaret

Margaret River Fudge Factory

Arc of Iris

To Prevelly & Gnarabup Beaches

Margaret River Heart

BUSS

Blue Ginger Fine Foods

HWY

the town’s fertile environment, the

ELL

Margaret River: The lifeblood of

Life Cycle Bikes

FORREST RD

Skate Park

insight to Wadandi and natural history, this land.

Morries

WALCLIFFE RD

River’s costal limestone ridge gives and the true fertility and wonder of

River Walk

Drift Café

The Food Room

Boranup Forest: The beauty, texture

45 min 2.4 km

Burger Baby

Sidekick Café Settlers Tavern Hillzeez Subculture Squidlips Fish’n’Chips Riversmith

to some of the world’s finest wines

Margaret River as somewhere special.

ER

public street art, diverse drinking options and a

RIV

La Scarpetta Trattoria

ET

Margaret River Historical Society

Hairy Marron Cafe

AR

8km from the coast. But the main street never

RG

Margaret River’s bustling town centre sits roughly

The Garden Basket Farmer’s Market

Margaret River flows through here

To Augusta

and culminates at Rivermouth.

Surfers Point: Generations of professional and amateur surfers alike have flocked here to surf the region’s famous point break - and it’s a good

TOW N M A P Visitors Centre

Gallery

Restaurant

Supermarket

Café

Pedestrian/cycle path

artisan stores, galleries and studios in

Bar

Dining/shopping precinct

this unexpectedly creative little town.

Gift Shop

Green Space

spot to eat fish and chips at sunset, too.

Cowaramup’s Arts Scene: Inspired by the landscape, local artists have put their stamp on Cowaramup. Explore

Tales & Trails / 81

Surfers at Redgate Beach. IMAGE Tourism WA

Rediscover

Margaret River S

ean Blocksidge has a ridiculous optimism that is both genuine and

paradise on the planet.”

Sean has mostly come into contact with

mountain biking tracks for instance, has been growing exponentially, as are the

international and interstate visitors in the

guided tours on offer to explore these trails

Discovery Tours and knows the lay of the

past and the border restrictions have seen a

by bike. Sean says “We now have more

land, as well as those that inhabit it. In a

bit of a drop off in demand. His guided tour

people with bikes on cars than surfboards.

world where the easy route is sometimes

though, exposes hidden gems most West

The trails are awesome with easy green

cynicism and negativity, Sean is there to

Aussies and possibly even Marg’s locals

trails for beginners and epic blue rated flow

figure out how to make it better. He’s an

wouldn’t know about. He describes the tour

trails for the more skilled riders. Even a few

environmentalist, an avid photographer,

as ‘the tour for people who don’t want to do

bone-breaking black trails that keep the

and a foodie. And if you decide to jump

tours.’ It feels intimate and personal, and its

local hospital busy!”

on a tour with him, you’ll find he’s a great

five-star Trip Advisor rating is a testament

conversationalist too.

to the success of the product.

infectious. Sean runs Margaret River

Sean’s lived and breathed Margaret River

If you haven’t been to Margaret River for a

You’ll be pleasantly surprised at how the town is maturing, and if you’re like Sean,

u a . m o .c c i p EagleBayE

you’ll feel a sense of peace through the

since around 2004 when he decided to

while, you might find that some things are the

natural surrounds, “I love the tranquillity,

call the destination home. “The region had

same. A beach with no-one on it. The sound

the sounds of the black cockatoos flying up

everything I was looking for. Great lifestyle,

only of your paddle as you kayak among

the valley, the gentle flow of the river and

outdoor adventures and some of the best

the jarrah trees in the river. The quality local

the incredible reflections of the towering

wine and food offerings in Australia. I’d

ingredients at the Farmers Markets.

Eucalypts. It’s like a scene out of a movie

But there’s an abundance of new

and we’re always the only ones ever out

travelled a lot up to that point and suddenly found like I’d found my home, my patch of

experiences emerging. Popularity for

there to experience it.”

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

If you’re not sure what to do once you’ve arrived in Margaret River, here’s 10 ways to discover (or rediscover) this special part of the world.

1.

the Berry Farm where comfort food and

Visit Mammoth or Lake Cave: Pack some good walking shoes and book in at either Lake or Mammoth caves.

Both subterranean systems are well preserved and have healthy stalactite

3.

fruity wines make a delightful pairing.

Visit an art gallery: Artists find inspiration from the natural wonders

and stalagmites dripping with life. Caves

of the Margaret River Region, and

are a great way to escape the heat on a

local artisan stores and galleries have

hot day and the descent is a satisfying

regular exhibitions of their work. Along

release of moderate exercise.

Margaret River’s main street, try Jah

2.

Roc Gallery or John Miller Design for

Have lunch at a winery: There are

fine art and jewellery, and explore

dozens of great winery lunches to

crafty wares at the Margaret River

tempt the tastebuds in Margaret River.

Artisan store. Take a short drive out of

Choose from the classic Leeuwin Estate

town to Vasse Felix Estate for high-end

– where a chardonnay tasting is more

curated collections, Mr Barval Winery

than quaffable, try locally grown and

for Indigenous art exhibits or Payet

sourced dishes at Voyager Estate, or for

Gallery for contemporary jewellery

something more casual book in lunch at

and pottery designs.

e … r e u n t o n y e r v e d a v e c i p e for an

6-7 November, Eagle Bay. WA

d n e week

Join us for an epic weekend in WA’s favourite adventure playground... + Long , Short and Kids‘ races + Open to Solos & Relay Teams + MTB / Swim /Paddle /Run

+ Based at the Eagle Bay Brewing Co. Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

|

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www.eaglebayepic.com.au

Gnarabup Beach. IMAGE Elements Margaret River

4.

guided tour to discover some of the

Drive south of Margaret River along

more unbeaten tracks, or you can head

with coves and beaches and walks

Bussell Highway for ten minutes

on a loop from Rotary Park. Whatever

range from moderate to advanced.

and you’ll encounter the quirky

you choose, you will be feeling a sense

Highly recommended is a guided tour

town of Witchcliffe. Coffee and

of excitement and awe as you take in

with Cape to Cape Explorer Tours,

cake at Yardbyrd café is a must, as

the wonderful forests and farmland on

Edgewalkers or Walk into Luxury. If

is perusing the local antique and

two wheels.

you’re battling the cape yourself, try a

vintage stores.

famed Cape to Cape Track is laced

section from Gracetown to Ellensbrook.

It is moderate in elevation and around 7km. Be sure to pack enough supplies

5.

9.

Spend a day at Redgate Beach: Clear skies, gin-clear water, and granite

a hardcore mountain biking guru to

boulders jutting from white sand.

enjoy the trails in Margaret River.

Redgate beach is a prime piece of

your destination!

You can hire a bike or jump on a

Indian Ocean shoreline, and is set

Have breakfast at the White Elephant café: This is the top spot to down your yourself directly overlooking Gnarabup beach and take in all of that summery seaside action.

Discover bird life at Eagles Heritage: Even if you don’t consider yourself a bird enthusiast, you will after a trip to Eagles Heritage. Minutes from downtown Margaret River, the wildlife centre has Australia’s largest collection of raptors set amongst stunning natural bushland. You can witness daily flight displays and get up close and personal with a barn owl.

84

8.

Hit the trails: You don’t have to be

and arrange someone to pick you up at

favourite brekky with a view. Perch

6.

7.

Stop for a browse in Witchcliffe:

Walk the Cape to Cape Track: The

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Surf at Redgate. IMAGE Elements Margaret River

WINE & CHEESE IMAGE Elements Margaret River

up with flags over the summer. The beach break can have good entry level conditions for surfing (but beware of

Below: A walk through Mammoth Cave will take you out through the karri forest and includes an audio headset to guide you

rips). Bird watchers keep a look out for

10.

the Rock Parrot and the Hooded Plover.

Monkey for a hoppy brew and an

Try a local brew: There is a strong local

excellent meal. Settler’s Tavern

loyalty to regionally brewed beer in

and The River Hotel are also trusted

these parts. Craft breweries and good

favourite’s and have a great music

old fashioned country pubs are well

scene.

engrained in the town’s ecosystem.

Visit the Margaret River Brewhouse

This article was originally written in 2020

Cowaramup Brewing Co, or Cheeky

and adapted for publication in 2021.

ENJOY A TASTE OF MARGARET RIVER’S FINEST We invite you to join us for a tasting, among some of the oldest vines in Margaret River, at our famous Redbrook vineyard.

OPEN EVERY DAY 10:30 — 5 CORNER CAVES & METRICUP ROADS WILYABRUP, MARGARET RIVER, WA

We have collaborated with the Yallingup Cheese Company to present a delicious Margaret River wine and cheese showcase. $25 PER PERSON

Enjoy a seasonal guided tasting of four premium wines matched with artisan cheese.

SCAN TO BOOK

EVANSANDTATE.WINE P ONE / 0 8 9755 6244 | Tales &HTrails margaretriver.com

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AUGUSTA In Augusta, something fundamental about life is understood that’s lost or forgotten elsewhere. Here, respect isn’t a buzzword or a banner. It’s people greeting each other in the street. It’s preserving heritage and environment even when resources are scarce. It’s savouring every last juicy bite of whiting or abalone or salty lick of chippy fingers. Life is simpler here, but it’s also intricate.

The Blackwood River streams in from 400-kilometres north-east, culminating in the glassy Hardy Inlet, home to countless species of water bird and fish that comprise our rich ecosystem. Walking trails well-trodden extend from here through town, bush and out to sea. Two oceans collide at Cape Leeuwin, where at the right time of year, thousands of whales migrate past. This place is raw and wild and unknown, but simultaneously at ease. And while other places grab for visitors with Instagram envy and expensive luxuries, we quietly attract them through our very nature. The old come to revel in simple delights they’ve always known; the young to discover them anew. There’re things to be learned here, things we’ve run from. Things so simple, they’re easily ignored. Things about how to live.

Augusta. Get back to life.

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To Margaret River

AL

AUGUSTA HIGHLIGHTS

LN UT TC E

Augusta town centre often flies

Skate Park

under the radar but those in the know love its quirk and charm. Take a stroll down the

Blackwood River Houseboats

Augusta Historical Museum

Augusta’s Georgiana Molloy Motel

Augusta Newspower

AUGUSTA CIVIC PARK

street and you’ll find eclectic vintage shops and cafes, an old school bus turned pizza bar, and a pub with arguably the best view in WA. The Augusta

Augusta River Tours

Boat Ramp

Augusta CRC Centennial Hall

HIL

E LV I

D WR

H ARDY

Deckchair Café

INLET

Blue Ocean Fish & Chips

Seine Bay Apartments

Augusta Hotel Motel

10 min 1.1 km

folk are a chatty bunch too and

OO VE DA

smitten with the place.

KW

can make a visitor instantly

AC

offered along the way that

BL

it’s the local pearls of wisdom

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse: Maritime legend abounds at the tallest lighthouse on mainland Australia, situated at the most south-westerly

Turner Caravan Park

point of Australia where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet.

Hamelin Bay: Share an intimate moment with a stingray in pristine Hamelin Bay. Blackwood River: Fish, swim or soak in

To Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse

Pioneer Memorial War Memorial

The Colourpatch Restaurant

LIONS PARK

the serenity to your heart’s content along the Blackwood River, the region’s most significant water source and the longest river in the south west.

Walking Trails: A network of walking trails

TOW N M A P Visitors Centre

Accommodation

Restaurant

Supermarket

Café

Pedestrian/cycle path

sink your teeth into a piece of locally

Bar

Dining/shopping precinct

farmed abalone at The Colourpatch seafood

Gift Shop

Green Space

connects river, bush and sea in and around Augusta, forming pathways into the town’s unique history, flora and fauna.

Eat Abalone: Forget the trims of fine dining;

restaurant or at Glenarty Road winery.

Whale Watching: Flinders Bay becomes a

Gallery

nursery for the next generation of Southern Right Whales and Humpbacks from May August, and whales can be seen in all their glory from boat, beach and lookout.

Tales & Trails / 87

A TOWN’S LOVE FOR THE PUB WORDS | Sarah Robinson

ruise down the main strip and you can’t miss the only pub in Augusta. It’s been

Above: The view from the Augusta Hotel is arguably one of the best in the State Above inset: The Augusta Hotel in the mid 1930s Opposite: The Royal Australian Navy band played on the lawn in March 2021 to commemorate the HMAS Nizam

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| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

remembers the pub in the early fifties.

“There have been so many characters,

standing proudly, watching the Blackwood

and it was a real social centre in the past,”

River for more than a hundred years.

he says. “If you wanted to meet someone,

Generations of locals have been married,

you’d always say, I’ll see you at 5.30 at the

shook hands on business deals and

pub.”’ Jim says the pub has always been a

celebrated the sporting season there.

place where people met to have a chat, pick

The owner of the Augusta Hotel is Jim Challis, a third generation local who

a football team or have an AGM. “We considered ourselves the social

bought the pub back in 1986. He asked an

centre of the town because there’s only one

American family of academics to invest.

pub, and we’ve been happy (since we’ve

And, well, they made a smart choice. Jim

been involved) to keep it that way,” he

says. “Because it’s a good meeting spot for

momentous occasions have happened at the

sporting clubs and organisations, and we’ve

pub over the years. Jim remembers one back

always tried to keep the pub family friendly.”

in 1986, just after he took over.

The pub and its motel overlooks the

“They had the first whale stranding

river, just before it opens into Flinders Bay.

in Flinders Bay, and the community got

You can take in the view over a pint and

involved so well,” he says. “They got most of

a generous meal, or head down to the old

them into the Flinders Bay swimming pool,

bowling green out front, where weddings

in that enclosed area within the reef. I think

and the odd concert take place.

they rescued about 96 of them, it was an

In November last year, Jesse Gordon performed jazz on the lawn under a full

amazing feat.”

Over three or four days, the Augusta Hotel

moon, as part of the Augusta Presents series.

became a hub for reporters and other out

In March next year, another concert under

of towners, who flocked to lend a hand. “We

the stars unfolds, this time, starring Perth

had three helicopters on the bowling green

blues and soul artist, Dr Fish. Plenty of other

and accommodation booked overnight,” he

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Jim says Augusta is a caring and friendly town. And when you look at how the community pulled together to save those stranded whales, it’s easy to agree. The wall of faces in front of the main car park shows that too. It’s filled with photos of locals, who have contributed in some way to the town.

Real estate is tight on the decorated wall, but if you look high enough, you can see Jim. “I didn’t have anything to do with mine and it really came as a surprise,”’ he says.

CELLAR DOOR OPEN 7 DAYS 889 COMMONAGE ROAD, YALLINGUP WA 6282 Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com | 89 DEEPWOODS.WINE

“A lot of people stop and take photos and

about time they spent some money on the

it should be.

ask questions, it’s a great way to get tourists

place and all the rest of it.”

To book a room at the Augusta Hotel, head

in the town to say, ‘hey, what’s this here?’”

Friday is one of the biggest nights at the Augusta Hotel. But Jim says the covid pandemic has made the past 12 months more difficult, as lockdowns make it harder to plan ahead.

“We used to have the chook raffles on a regular basis,’ he says. ‘We had one guy that did it for twenty years and another guy that did it for 14 or 15. We run Chase the Ace and have always looked to have little sponsorships for various groups on Friday night.”

Stepping into the Augusta Hotel is like stepping back in time. Like most iconic pubs, it’s a little dated. The paint might be peeling in places and the outdoor chairs favour comfort over modern chic. But that’s all part of the charm.

And like most popular things, everyone has an opinion on it.

“There’d be those that say, ‘the pub should do this, or should do that’,” Jim says. “It’s

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| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

Some would also say, it’s exactly as

to www.augustahotel.com.au.

TRACKS AND TRAILS

OF AUGUSTA Augusta is one of the Margaret River Region’s hidden gems. Tucked away at the end of Caves Road, this is one part of the region less frequently visited. That, of course, adds to the adventure you can find down there.

WORDS | Tom De Souza

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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he country surrounding Augusta is more

stunning beach, where you will feel like you

can look out over two different oceans, and

heavily forested than other parts of the

are the only one in the world.

coast that faces west, south, and east.

region, thanks mostly to the fertile soils of

This is a walk for experienced hikers with soft sand and difficult terrain, and will take

gravel road. It will take you along beaches,

Southern and Indian Oceans meet, and has a

1-2 days.

rocks, and through coastal bushland.

different, wilder feel to the west coast.

For those looking for a milder version

Take the road to Quarry Bay and then along

There are plenty of walking tracks where

of the walk, try Hamelin Bay to Deepdene,

the Cape to Cape track to check out the fossilised

you can experience Augusta at its finest and

which is 10km and will take between half

water wheel that the early settlers used to

immerse yourself in all the natural beauty it

and a full day of walking. You’ll pass the old

supply the lighthouse keepers with water.

has to offer.

lighthouse at the beautiful and sheltered

From the lighthouse, head east along the

Foul Bay, and the granite outcrops of Cosy

south facing bays, and back to the foreshore

Cape to Cape Track –

Corner and Elephant Rock before you

at Flinders Bay.

Cape Leeuwin to Hamelin Bay

arrive at the long expanse of beach that is

Time: 1-2 days

Deepdene.

There are picnic tables and facilities here, and it makes a tranquil spot to stop for lunch.

Watch out for traffic if walking along roads!

Distance: 25km

Lighthouse Scenic Loop

Difficulty: Hard

Time: 4-6 hours

Whale Trail

This is arguably one of the most challenging

Distance: 9km

Time: 1-3 hours

and stunning sections of the 125km Cape

Difficulty: Medium

Distance: 6km Difficulty: Easy

to Cape walking track. From Cape Leeuwin the track skirts big granite boulders along

Starting at the Augusta Boat Harbour,

the coast, before dropping down steep

head up and around Skippy Rock Road for

This is an easy walk along a paved track

cliffs onto Deepdene Beach. This is a long,

stunning vistas of the rugged coastline. You

from the Blackwood rivermouth to the boat

/

You can look out over two different oceans, and coast that faces west, south, and east /

92

This is a moderately difficult walk along a

the Blackwood Valley. It is also where the

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

harbour at Flinders Bay. It is perfect for young children and families, and offers plenty of ideal vantage points to spot the humpback whales, which migrate past Augusta from July to November.

Along the water front, you’ll pass shady peppermint and paperbark trees, cormorants, pelicans, and maybe even a pod of dolphins.

If you’re lucky, you’ll see whale action in the form of breaching and tail slapping acrobatics.

The walk runs through the Flinders Bay caravan park and is well signposted.

Boranup Forest Walk Time: 1-2 hours Distance: 1km Difficulty: Easy

the road winds through the trees.

On your way to or from Augusta, take

15km north of the Augusta township is the

the scenic drive along Caves Road and stop

majestic Boranup Forest, where towering

here for a break. Take a wander through the

Karri trees reach for the sky. There is a car

towering forest, and down one of the tracks

park and a lookout on Caves Road, where

into the valley. This country really has a

the speed limit drops to 60km per hour and

way of making you feel small!

Gale Street Motel & Villas, Busselton offers affordable, comfortable and clean accommodation in a quiet street off the highway - with the glorious waters of Geographe Bay at the end of our street (3 minute walk). It is only a 5-10 minute walk to all cafes and restaurants in the town centre and an approximate 10-12 minute walk to the famous Busselton Jetty.

40 Gale Street, Busselton galestvillas.com.au Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com | 93 (08) 9754 1200

T&T / DIRECTORY

JOHN STRE ATER FINE FURNITURE

JOHN STREATER FINE FURNITURE AND ART GALLERY John Streater Designer and Master Craftsman of contemporary bespoke hardwood furniture.

Also showcasing art, jewellery, woodturning and more.

A visit to our gallery will leave you truly inspired.

105 Blythe road, Yallingup Siding 6282 WA Open daily 10am to 4pm Ph 08 9755 1211 www.streaterfinefurniture.com WHALERS COVE VILL AS

DUNSBOROUGH BEACH COTTAGES

ABSOLUTE BEACHFRONT ON THE SHORES OF GEOGRAPHE BAY Dunsborough Beach Cottages is situated on the pristine waters of Geographe Bay just 2.5 hours south of Perth. We offer beautifully appointed self-contained 2 & 3 bedroom resort style cottages, including our adults only beachfront cottages.

From here you can walk to the Dunsborough town centre or within a short distance you can experience a range of award winning wineries, galleries and restaurants, making

Dunsborough Beach Cottages the ideal choice for families, couples or anyone looking to enjoy a beachfront escape in the Margaret River region.

Be sure to visit our website for the latest offers and rates.

whalerscove.com.au (08) 9755 3699 3 Lecaille Ct, Dunsborough

Ph 08 9756 8885 info@dunsboroughbeachcottages.com.au

Affordable Dog-Friendly Range of Quality Accommodation and Camping Sites in Busselton.

.

Whalers Cove Villa a fabulous beachfront location with 16 self-catering villas, only a short stroll to Dunsborough’s stylish shops and cafes. Make this your base for exploring the Margaret River Region.

Tel: 9755 4082 585 Caves Road, Busselton

DON’T MISS OUR NEXT ISSUE To advertise in

contact Natalie Du Preez

www.fourseasonsresort.com.au 94

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

natalie@premiumpublicationscom.au

BIG VALLEY CAMPSITE

NESTLED AMONGST THE HILLS OF OUR FAMILY OWNED WORKING SHEEP FARM, JUST TEN MINUTES SOUTH EAST OF MARGARET RIVER.

Relax in style between the forest and the town on the main street of Margaret River

The farm encompasses a beautiful secret valley secluded from the outside world by natural forest. Bring your Caravan, Motorhome or Tent to relax and enjoy the open space, amazing nights skies, friendly farm animals and the family friendly atmosphere. Pet friendly.

E: stay@margaretsforest.com.au W: www.margaretsforest.com.au

Ph 08 9757 5020 bigvalleymargaretriver.com.au

JACARANDA GUEST HOUSE

My

place. Your place. Our place.

Stocker Preston spans across the Southwest in four beautiful locations.

Combining over 100 years of Real Estate Property experience, our team of over 50, each share an undeniable passion for the region’s spectacular landscapes, environmental assets, unique creatures and soulful communities.

PARK YOUR CAR AND WALK EVERYWHERE Busselton famous Jetty, beach, shops, cafe and restaurants all just a short walk away.

Jacaranda Guest House is centrally located, has 7 guest rooms all with own ensuite, r/c airconditioning and free wifi.

It is nestled amongst english style gardens, where You can just relax or enjoy a bbq.

Continental breakfast is included in the price.

30 West Street, Busselton, WA Ph 08 9751 5973 • jacarandaguesthouse1@westnet.com.au www.jacarandaguesthouse.com

STOCKER

RESTON

stockerpreston.com.au

TASTINGS FROM THURSDAY TO MONDAY 10.30AM TO 4.30PM 3478 CAVES ROAD, WILYABRUP 9750 4000 | www.robertoatley.com.au

5 STAR WINERY JAMES HALLIDAY - AUSTRALIAN WINE COMPANION 2019

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Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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95

T&T / DIRECTORY

SUNFLOWERS ANIMAL FARM & FARMSTAY MARGARET RIVER REGION

BUSSELTON

Tree Chalets Simple Luxury in Nature Romantic and luxurious accommodation for two in chalets amongst the trees. Decadent outdoor cast iron baths with bush views.

Prolific wildlife and amazing views into our Rosegum plantation.

Adult only accommodation. One bedroom fully self-contained chalets. The ultimate relaxation getaway.

Just 15 minutes from Busselton.

4478 Jalbarragup Road, Acton Park Tel: 0401 396 640 • www.treechalets.com.au

Delicious artisan gelato Find us in gourmet stores + cafes across the South West gelatobuonissimo.com.au/find-us

Made here by us for you

1/72 Willmott Avenue, Margaret River Open 8am ~ 2pm weekdays | 7:30am ~ 2pm weekends www.driftcafe.com.au | Socials @driftcafe.mr

5561 Caves Road, near Margaret River Ph: (08) 9757 3343 • farmerjones@sunflowersfarm.com www.sunflowersfarm.com

WINE TOURS OF DISTINCTION

WISTERIA COTTAGE

MARGARET RIVER’S ORIGINAL AND BEST WINERY TOURS

REST, RELAX, EXPLORE.

Half Day and Full Day Gourmet Wine & Dine Tours

Drift Café

We offer farmstay accommodation in 4 fully self contained units, sleeping between 5 and 9 people, near Margaret River in the South West of Western Australia.

Sunflowers Farmstay is ideal for big groups of friends or families (max 28 people).

Wander through the Animal Farm, with over 350 very friendly (mainly) farm animals, at any time during your stay. Sip local wines while admiring our stunning views: wild kangaroos grazing on rolling hills covered in beautiful wildflowers.

We visit a selection of the following wineries; Leeuwin Estate, Xanadu, Voyager Estate, McHenry Hohnen, Cape Grace and Brown Hill.

Full Day tours include lunch at Xanadu.

All tours include tasting fees at cellar doors, vineyard plate, and samples of smallgoods & chocolate.

Ph: 0419 917 166 info@margaretrivertours.com www.margaretrivertours.com

Whether you are here for rest and relaxation or to explore our amazing atttractions we hope you enjoy the peace and tranquility that is Wisteria Cottage. A one bedroom self contained cottage.

Wisteria Cottage

31 Dekkers, Rd Deepdene WA 6290 M 0407 084 086 wisteriacottageaugusta@gmail.com

JESTERS FL AT From a casual stroll through the majestic Karri Forest to an exhilarating multi day trek, JESTERS FLAT has it all! Tours, pricing and details are available online at www.jestersflat.com The perfect way to see Margaret River ... from the back of one of our magnificent horses.

PH: +61897574562 • E: bookings@jestersflat.com

96

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

COME TO Regency Beach Club in Dunsborough Regency Beach Club has a large selection of 1-5 bedroom apartments that are all located on the foreshore of Dunsbrorough. Just a short 10 minute walk to town.

LOOKING FOR A RELAXING BREAK WITH THE FAMILY OR MAYBE A ROMANTIC GETAWAY WITH YOUR PARTNER? 77 Gifford Road, Dunsborough WA 6281 regencybeachclub.com enquiry@regencybeachclub.com +61 8 9759 1117

Yungarra Estate Accommodation Yungarra Estate Accommodation Yungarra Estate Accommodation A Yungarra Estate offers A captivating, captivating,one oneof ofaakind kindretreat, retreat,only onlyfive fiveminutes minutesfrom fromDunsborough, Dunsborough, Yungarra Estate offers secluded, luxury accommodation, within aa relaxing, hilltop rural oasis.

Surrounded by native bush, aa A captivating, one of a kind retreat, only five minutes from Dunsborough, Yungarra Estate offers secluded, luxury accommodation, within relaxing, hilltop rural oasis.

Surrounded by native bush, working and Bay, accommodation aa Main Lodge, aa Log secluded, luxury accommodation, within a relaxing, hilltop rural oasis. includes Surrounded by native bush, a workingvineyard vineyard andstunning stunningGeographe Geographe Bay,the the accommodation includes Main Lodge, Log and cottages, set over aasprawling rural property. working vineyardCabin and stunning Geographe Bay, the accommodation includes a Main Lodge, a Log Cabin andseveral several cottages, set over sprawling rural property.

Cabin and several cottages, set over a sprawling rural property.

swescapes.com.au swescapes.com.au swescapes.com.au stay@swescapes.com.au stay@swescapes.com.au stay@swescapes.com.au +61 +61 409 409116 116889 889 +61 409 116 889

Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

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97

GETTING AROUND

Westward Aviation Charter Services Depart from Jandakot Airport as the sun rises and enjoy stunning views of the Swan River, Fremantle Harbour, Rockingham, Mandurah, the Peel Inlet and Bunbury then on to either Busselton or Margaret River.

Westward Aviation will transfer you from the airport to the city and take you back at no extra cost. Your return journey will be just as spectacular with the sun setting over the Indian Ocean and the night lights of the City of Perth. westwardaviation.com.au IMAGE Tim Campbell Photography

South West Luxury Transport Locally owned and operated by ex-Qantas pilot, Andrew and local artist Rebekah, the team at South West Luxury Transport bring a culmination of skills to ensure the most premium of experiences. southwestluxurytransport.com.au

VIRTUALLY Margaretriver.com

BY COACH

Busselton & South West Rent a Car

The number one travel authority in

TRANS WA

Offering delivery and pick-up throughout

the region, margaretiver.com is full of

Trans WA19 travels from Perth

the south west, Busselton & South West Rent

inspiration and practical information on how

to Margaret River every Monday,

a Car is a local, family-owned car rental

to navigate your way around the region.

Wednesday and Friday, with optional

company.

Pop up webchat and telephone enquiries

drop-offs along the way and returns to

busseltonswrentacar.com.au

will also answer any of your more curly

IMAGE Tim Campbell

Perth the same day. Keep hold of your ticket and return to Perth at a later date.

Avis Southwest Car Hire

wa-getaway.com.au

Explore the beautiful Margaret River region at your own pace with a rental from Avis

South West Coach Lines

Southwest Car Hire in Busselton. One-way

Catch the express coach service

rentals are available back to Perth.

connecting Perth, Perth Domestic

avis.com.au

and Perth International Airport terminals with Busselton, Dunsborough, Margaret

IN STYLE

River.

McLeod Tours

southwestcoachlines.com.au

Take in Margaret River’s scenery and

BY CAR

98

Discover the southwest with Avis.

With our locations at Bunbury, Busselton and Busselton-Margaret River Airport.

attractions with local expert and awardwinning guide Neil McLeod. The three-day

Margaret River Rent a Car

Escape tour provides pick-up from your

To see the best of the region, hire a car

Perth hotel or Perth train station, comfortable

or people mover from Margaret River –

bus transport, three days touring with a

all you need is a driver’s licence, even if

dedicated tour guide, delicious food and

it’s an interstate or international one.

wine, and an exciting itinerary.

margaretriverrentacar.com.au

mcleodtours.com.au

| Tales & Trails / margaretriver.com

questions.

1 8 0 0 67 9 8 8 0 | av i s . c o m . au

Blue Manna bistro

PASSIONATE ABOUT SEAFOOD

www.bluemannabistro.com.au - 08 9786 5051 - 1/16 Cyrillean Way, Dunsborough, WA WWW.ARAVINAESTATE.COM