Western 4W Driver #131 Spring 2024

131st EDITION Spring 2024

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WESTERN 4W DRIVER 131st EDITION Spring 2024

FRASER RANGE TRACK IN SPRING WILDFLOWERS KALBARRI KIMBERLEY CRUISE

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CONTENTS EDITION 131 SPRING 2024

A DV E N T U R E S Fraser Range Track

Alan McCall follows in the footsteps of pioneers ................................................................................................................................................................ 6

Rockin' Through the WA Wildflowers

Colin and Prue Kerr hit the Wheatbelt looking for wildflowers and granite rocks ......................................................................... 22

The Five Best Wildflower Walks in WA

Jane and Michael Pelusey share their favourite wildflower walking trails ................................................................................................ 31

Journey to the Heart of the Kimberley

Michael Collins takes us on a 13-night adventure aboard the Kimberley Pearl ................................................................................. 38

Discover Kalbarri in Spring

A wildflower kaleidoscope and whales on parade ......................................................................................................................................................... 98

14 68 31

38 6

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F E AT U R E S

REGULARS

Ineos Grenadier

The Front Matter ................................................................... 4

contender in the off-road arena ............................................. 14

Outback Survival .......................................................... 113

Matt Payne looks at the new

Get Ready to Rodeo

Wild rides and country fun .......................................................... 44

Using Pin Pointers When Metal Detecting

Bush Mechanics .............................................................. 115 What's in a Name? ..................................................... 118

Luke Clatworthy examines three of the

The Things You See! ................................................ 124

Why You Don't Want a GVM Upgrade

Country Stargazing .................................................. 126

with a more realistic approach to towing ....................... 56

Fishy Business .................................................................... 129

best-known brands of pin pointers available ............ 50

David Wilson challenges the prevailing wisdom

Towing Essentials

Gear to Go Camping ............................................... 133

Above the Red Dust

Clewed Up ................................................................................... 136

A Comprehensive Guide ................................................................ 60 Photo Essay by Liam Thomson ................................................ 68

Pedal to the Metal

WA's Trailblazing Gold Rush Cyclists .................................. 76

Squatter Camp Kitchen

4WD Club Focus ............................................................... 138 Capture the Moment ............................................ 143

Product Review ....................................................................................... 82

Smart Photography ................................................. 144

A Robust Power Companion for any Adventurer — Bluetti AC60P

Now We're TAWKing! ............................................. 148

Product Review ....................................................................................... 86

Wandoo Warriors

Track Care and offroad motoring groups clear

the way in Wandoo National Park ......................................... 88

Camp Hosting in National Parks

Helping others to enjoy the camping lifestyle ........... 93

Where the Wild Things Are

Wooramulla Eco Cultural Journeys ................................... 109

Goings On ................................................................................... 152 Crossword Puzzle ......................................................... 154 Subscriptions ....................................................................... 158 Supplier Directory ...................................................... 159 Silly Snaps .................................................................................. 160

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Vanguard Publishing ABN 70 616 133 870 26 John Street, Northbridge WA 6003 PO Box 50, Northbridge WA 6865 Phone: (08) 9422 4330 admin@western4wdriver.com.au www.western4wdriver.com.au EDITION 131: Editor Brayden Edwards Graphic Design Karen Morton Content Brayden Edwards Michael Collins Advertising Brayden Edwards brayden@western4wdriver.com.au Matt Clarke matt@western4wdriver.com.au Natalie Du Preez natalie@vanguardpublishing.com.au Administration Steve Larcombe Sally van Heemst Printing Vanguard Print

Cover image: Australia's Golden Outback

Disclaimer: The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Vanguard Publishing or the editors but those of the authors who accept sole responsibility and liability for them. While every care is taken with images and photographs, and all other material submitted, Vanguard Publishing accepts no liability for loss or damage.

Vanguard Publishing reserves the right to amend publication schedules and frequencies.

Edition 131 Spring 2024

W

elcome to Edition 131 of Western 4W Driver.

Spring is finally here! It’s time to embrace the change of seasons again and all the wonders it brings to our beautiful state. To be honest, I am glad winter is over. It’s time for some warmth and blue skies!

Before I go further, we need to give a huge welcome to Brayden Edwards who has taken over as the Western 4W Driver’s Editor and Content Director. Great to have you on board, mate. Hopefully we see you on the road sometime soon!

Anyway, as many of us emerge from the shackles of winter's cold embrace in the south and as the north starts to get warmer and a little stickier, the signs of spring are everywhere: new growth, wildflowers, birdlife and the unmistakable and steady convoy of grey nomads whose bones have been warmed by a Kimberley winter now heading south!

Nature is certainly responding to the generous rains of late July and August in this edition. Our winter rain has certainly set the stage for a spectacular wildflower season; those blooms are out!

In this edition, we journey through these blossoming landscapes, starting with the Fraser Range Track.

Alan McCall invites you to follow in the footsteps of pioneers, tracing a route where history and nature intertwine, offering not just a drive but a passage through time.

Colin and Prue Kerr take us on a colourful adventure, ‘Rockin’ Through the WA Wildflowers’. Their journey also highlights the granite outcrops and quiet moments that make these trails so special.

For those seeking a deeper connection with nature, The Five Best Wildflower Walks in WA by Jane and Michael Pelusey will guide you to some of the best spots to witness this natural spectacle.

And don’t miss Luke Clatworthy’s feature on WA’s Trailblazing Gold Rush Cyclists, which explores a unique part of WA’s adventurous history. Luke also does a great review on Pin Pointers, which are an essential accessory for anyone metal-detecting.

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TH E F RO NT M AT TE R w i t h M I C H A E L (S P I K E ) C O L L I N S Alongside this, explore Bob Cooper’s tips in Outback Survival to ensure you're wellprepared for the challenges of remote travel.

Toyota LandCruiser Club has penned a rather spooky article on the ‘Ghost Towns of the Goldfields' and their forgotten past.

We’re also excited to showcase the Ineos Grenadier, a formidable new player in the off-road world. Matt Payne takes you through the ins and outs of this rugged vehicle, blending the best of old-school 4WD durability with modern-day comforts.

We delve into the nuances of Why You Don’t Want a GVM Upgrade with David Wilson; he certainly offers great insights into towing without the need for a common vehicle modification. As always, Phil Bianchi pens an interesting article on weird desert animals and plants and the importance of cans in a bygone era. Yes, cans.

Our resident outback cook Jo Clews is all smiles as she shares a delicious soup recipe!

For those inspired to set up their own camp, check out Gear to Go Camping and Squatter Camp Kitchen reviews to ensure your next adventure is both comfortable and enjoyable.

Grant and Linda Hanan share their tips and have put together a comprehensive guide to 'Towing,’ and it's more than just the right towbar! Well worth the read. Karl Fehlauer, our regular smart photography guru, details the 'seven Ps' of drone photography, flight planning, tips and apps. Besides upsetting a few angry souls in the campground, there is no mistaking the incredible imagery these devices can produce. I could have done with Karl’s insight when I got my first drone!

The amazing ‘Wandoo Warriors’ from Track Care and the LandCruiser and Subaru Clubs spend some time in the Wandoo National Park, ensuring accessibility and preservation of this pristine wilderness. Fido from the

And I take a deep dive into the remote and rugged North West with my article ‘Journey to the Heart of the Kimberley’, detailing our 13-night adventure aboard the Kimberley Pearl through one of Australia’s most breathtaking regions. From the cascading King George Falls to ancient rock art, this is a journey of discovery, reflection and awe.

While we are in the Kimberley, check out Liam Thomson’s Photo Essay featuring landscape photography at its best. We are certainly spoiled for incredible landscapes here in WA. Oh, and check out my review on the Bluetti AC60P, a bloody good bit of kit!

Colin and Prue also give great insight into camp hosting in National Parks, offering a way to give back to the wilderness areas we love to explore. And Geoff Lewis finds himself under a bit of pressure in the hot Pilbara sun!

The 4WD and adventure show is back at McCallum Park, and Pete and Chris Woods are set to deliver another incredible show from November 8-11. Make sure you don’t miss it and call past the Western 4W Driver stand and say g’day!

With spring’s warmth, there’s a renewed sense of adventure in the air. This edition captures that spirit, offering stories and insights that celebrate the changing season and the natural beauty of Western Australia.

So, grab a cuppa, find a comfy spot, and let’s hit the road together — there’s a big backyard out there waiting to be explored!

Cheers, Spike

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FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF PIONEERS B y A L A N M c CA L L

FRASER RANGE TRACK

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One of the delights of 4W driving is following in the footsteps of our pioneers, those who came before and traversed the land, cutting tracks so they and others could conduct their business. The Fraser Range Track, which originally linked the settlement of Esperance to the Fraser Range pastoral lease, is one such track.

T

he Dempsters were the pioneers of Esperance, and the brothers Andrew and Charles settled at Fraser Range in 1872. They cut a track between the two areas, and this is now known as the Fraser Range Track. It used to be called the Fraser Range Road; however, over time, some of the original road has been taken over by farmland, similar to the Holland and Dunns Tracks to the west. North of Mount Ridley, much of the original road has also been overgrown by vegetation. At the northern, Eyre Highway end, the track doesn’t reach the actual Fraser Range anymore but skirts the boundary between Southern Hills Station and the Dundas Nature Reserve.

MOUNT RIDLEY

Following the Dempster Road (itself a nod to the old track) from Esperance for about 70km (or one hour), you eventually come to Mount Ridley, which is about 2km from the Fraser Range Track. At Mount Ridley, there are walking trails, historic wells, and rock art sites worth a visit. It is the most prominent feature around for a long way.

MOUNT RIDLEY

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DINGO ROCK

Leaving Mount Ridley and going north, there are a number of tracks where you can closely follow the original road for just over 20km before the original road is reached properly. The tracks are a mixture of sand and gravel; it is easy going in the dry. After rain, there are some sections that form long puddles, so be extra careful in those areas in the wet.

Another 5km will bring you to the turn-off to Dingo Rock, and then it is a short drive

to the rock. It is a small, low outcrop with a shallow pool present after rain. There is a cairn there with a visitors book. It is a nice camping spot, however, there is not much firewood. The rock has been named Dingo Rock since 1918, and although I can find no records indicating why, I’m quite sure it would have involved a dingo.

Back to the Fraser Range Track, and five minutes further along, there is an old tank by the side of the track. Here, surveyor

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Aubrey Newman called this place 'First Tank' in 1893; however, whether this is the actual tank mentioned by him is anybody’s guess.

Why is it called 'First Tank'? I don’t know if there was any 'Second Tank'!

From the tank, the track roughly heads in a straight line for almost 20km, passing a really nice-looking red lake, until a dog-leg in the track. There is a clearing here that would make a good multiple-vehicle camp.

The clearing was originally the site for two

water tanks, which I have been unable to find. Surveyor R. Brazier put a survey mark here, B44, in 1893, but I have not located the survey mark either.

Seventeen kilometres further along, the southern border of the Dundas Nature Reserve is reached, and soon there is a track to the west. Along this track, about 10km, is an outcrop with a pool. Although it is not officially on the Fraser Range track, it is a good site to visit while in the area. It is called

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G N A M M A AT C OWA L I N YA P O O L

Cowalinya Pool and was named by R. Brazier in 1893. The pool is halfway up the outcrop and has been modified to hold extra water.

There is a gnamma on the rock that has also been modified, and a cairn that has Brazier’s original survey post contained within it. This place is great for camping; I have camped there on two occasions.

C OWA L I N YA P O O L

C OWA L I N YA P O O L

Back on the main track, you can head north along the track for about 45km, and you will reach an old well, 'Clear Streak Well', about 50 metres right of the track. The well has long since filled in with silt and sand; however, you can see where it used to be from the colour of the adjacent soil and some old remains of water troughs.

David Lindsay was in the area in 1891; however, Aubrey Newman named the well in 1893. Not far from Clear Streak Well, the track again heads in a rough straight line for about 35km, crossing the old Dundas Telegraph Line track along the way. Further along the straight section, there is a small water supply.

'Little Jam Hill Rockhole', which is really a gnamma, is accessible via a very short track

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WAT E R T R O U G H R E M A I N S AT C L E A R S T R E A K W E L L

L I T T L E JA M H I L L R O C K H O L E

leading from the main track. The gnamma has been built up on two sides with rocks to increase its volume. Every time I have been here (three times), the gnamma has contained water. It was named by David Lindsay in 1891 as the hill had a number of Raspberry Jam Wattles growing upon it.

and Southern Hills Station is reached. This is essentially where the track deviates again from the old road, as it is basically impassable from there. Southern Hills Station was part of the Fraser Range Pastoral Lease at one stage; now they are totally separate stations.

Another ten kilometres north-east, and the border of the Dundas Nature Reserve

From there, if you follow the boundary road northwards and beyond, you will reach the

L I T T L E JA M H I L L R O C K H O L E

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L I T T L E JA M H I L L R O C K H O L E

Southern Hills Road, from where you will come out on the Eyre Highway just east of the Southern Hills Rest Area.

Please contact the managers of Southern Hills station when in the area, and also beware of spreading the Onion Weed, which is prominent along the sides of the boundary track.

This track, with the deviation to Cowalinya Pool, is 210 kilometres long and is a great slow alternative to reach the Eyre Highway from Esperance.

I N FO R M ATI O N BAY FR AS E R R A N G E WAY P O I NT S Little Jam Hill Rockhole Lat -32 16 59.5 | Long 122 35 46.0 Double Tank And Old Yard Lat -32 54 19.8 | Long 122 14 10.2 Dingo Rock Lat -33 03 36.8 | Long 122 09 24.7 Mount Ridley Car Park Lat -33 17 23.3 | Long 122 07 34.2 First Tank Lat -33 02 43.7 | Long 122 09 12.3 Dingo Rock Turnoff Lat -33 03 52.2 | Long 122 08 27.8 Clear Streak Well Lat -32 28 38.8 | Long 122 24 12.7 Turn Off To Cowalinya Lat -32 43 36.8 | Long 122 17 13.8 Cowalinya Pool Lat -32 43 21.4 | Long 122 12 01.5 Eyre Highway Lat -32 04 24.4 | Long 122 35 48.0

An excerpt from Hema's WA State Map

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INEOS

GRENADIER A NEW CONTENDER EMERGES IN THE OFF-ROAD ARENA B y M AT T PAY N E

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T H E G R E N A D I E R R E TA I N S A LOT O F T H E 110 SERIES DEFENDER’S ST YLING CUES B U T W I T H M O R E M O D E R N F E AT U R E S

For serious off-road enthusiasts, there's a new player in town: the Ineos Grenadier.

This utilitarian beast boasts the coveted twin solid-axle configuration, a feature increasingly rare in modern 4WDs but prized for its unmatched off-road prowess.

4

WDs that run the tried and tested twin solid axle format, especially with coil suspension front and rear, are without a doubt the most capable vehicles for serious off-road work. There is a reason why you only see these sorts of vehicles used in comp truck 4WD builds: the twin solid axle configuration gives vastly superior flex over modern-day IFS counterparts, and the solid axle format is simply stronger and less likely to fail under off-road abuse.

Unfortunately, the majority of modernday 4WD offerings have now moved away from this format to the independent front suspension design, which is better suited to on-road driving but still retains an acceptable level of off-road prowess. Only the Toyota LandCruiser 70 series and Jeep Wrangler/Gladiator have continued to retain the twin solid axle configuration over the years, with the Land Rover Defender being discontinued in this format in 2016.

Enter the new kid on the block, Ineos Automotive, and its first vehicle, the Grenadier. The back story here is that the owner of global chemical giant Ineos, Sir Jim Ratcliffe, who also happens to be a billionaire, was quite the Defender enthusiast and, to say the least, was not very happy with Land Rover’s decision to discontinue the old school Defender in favour of a more modern version that dropped the vehicle's signature hard lines, riveted panels, and solid axles. From this, the Ineos Grenadier was born. The vehicle was designed in the United Kingdom based on the original 110 series Defender, with the design brief to produce the world’s best utilitarian 4WD vehicle, which Ineos now does out of a former Mercedes-Benz factory in Hambach, France, that was purchased by Ineos in 2020.

When Ineos started to show up on my social media news feeds, to say my interest was piqued is an understatement. In my opinion, there was a major market niche for a hardcore off-road 4WD that retained coilsprung solid front and rear axles yet also featured many of the modern comforts that we now expect in new vehicles.

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I actually came very close to putting the $500 deposit down at the initial expression of interest to secure a spot in the production line, and considering the price has since gone up about $30K, I really wish I had! So, as you could probably imagine, when the opportunity to test drive the Ineos Grenadier for two weeks came up, I was pretty excited!

One of the truly unique aspects of the Grenadier is the incredible level of customisation available with each build.

Ineos operates a sales model unlike most other manufacturers, whereby you ‘build’ your dream Grenadier online and then delegate which dealership you would like it delivered to. Being able to choose between things like side steps or rock sliders, diff locks, and auxiliary batteries and associated wiring for accessories as factory-fitted options is something avid 4W drivers have been chasing from new vehicle manufacturers for years. You can even choose the colour of your chassis rails!

The pricing for these add-ons is also surprisingly reasonable; in most cases, the prices are cheaper than what it would cost for you to add the accessory as an aftermarket option. This is certainly something to consider when looking at the higher-end price tag of the vehicle (starting at $110K plus on-roads), as many 4WD enthusiasts will commonly drop another $20K on accessories to get a vehicle up to touring spec immediately after purchase.

With the Grenadier, you can actually have the vehicle delivered in a state that requires minimal additional touring modifications.

Upon first viewing, the best way to describe the Grenadier would be as the love child of a 110-series Defender and a Mercedes G-Wagen. The front end leans heavily on the old-school Defender’s lines, but the rear end has clear G-Wagen styling built in. The appearance really fits the utilitarian design brief well, but still includes more modern offerings such as LED head and tail headlights.

T H E R E A R O F T H E G R E N A D I E R H AS G -WAG E N S T Y L I N G B U I LT I N

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My test vehicle was the six-cylinder BMW 3.0L twin-turbo diesel-powered option (you have a choice between this and a petrolpowered BMW option; no price difference) in the Fieldmaster variant, meaning it came with the optional smooth pack (anti-theft alarm and immobiliser, front parking sensors, power-heated exterior mirrors, heated windscreen washer jets, a lockable central storage bin, puddle lamps, ambient door lighting, and auxiliary charge points) and safari windows, the latter of which really add a nice sense of extra space to the cabin.

Ride height is more than ample from the factory, and although the vehicle comes supplied with 32-inch tyres, the guards should easily be able to fit 33s. The engine bay is incredibly tidy; however, there is very little remaining space. The cranking battery and associated fuses are all located under the rear passenger seat, with the optional auxiliary battery under the rear driver's seat; these are actually great design features as

T H E B AT T E R I E S F O R T H E G R E N A D I E R A R E LO CAT E D U N D E R T H E R E A R S E AT, K E E P I N G T H E W E I G H T D OW N LOW A N D T H E B AT T E R I E S AWAY F R O M E N G I N E H E AT

they keep the weight of the batteries down low and away from exposure to engine heat.

However, if you decide to fold down the rear seats and load up the rear cabin, then access, if needed, would be problematic.

Opening the driver’s door, the cabin appears luxurious but functional, with the centrepiece being the centrally mounted large infotainment screen, which is flanked by utilitarian-styled switches. These switches also feature on the roof console and are akin to what you would see in an aircraft cabin.

One really notable feature of the Grenadier is that there is a switch present for most of the major vehicle functions, meaning that you don’t need to do a deep dive through screen menus to turn things on and off when you want to do it quickly. The central screen is controlled by a rotational dial mounted next to the handbrake, and I found it easy to navigate the various menus. The seats are supremely comfortable offerings from Recaro, and the ones in the test vehicle

T H E C E N T R E C O N S O L E A N D I N F OTA I N M E N T S C R E E N F E AT U R E M O D E R N Y E T U T I L I TA R I A N S T Y L I N G A N D, C O M B I N E D, A R E H I G H LY F U N C T I O N A L

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featured optional heating, which I am a massive fan of. I use these on long trips regardless of whether it’s cold or not, as I just find my lower back really benefits.

The rear seats are also Recaros, and I must say it would have to be one of the most comfortable setups I have ever seen in a 4WD wagon, with plenty of leg room on offer. Opening the rear barn doors revealed a large storage area that was certainly not as wide as I am used to in my Patrol, but what it lacked in width, it made up for in height.

Driving out of the dealership, the first thing I had to quickly adjust to was the speedometer being located on the central screen. Instead of an instrument cluster in front of you, the Grenadier has a compact panel for displaying its warning lights. I think the design brief here is for you to have a really unobstructed forward view so you can focus while navigating off-road terrain.

You certainly do get used to briefly looking to the left for speed checks, though, and after a short while, it became second nature.

T H E R E A R CA R G O A R E A I S S PAC I O U S A N D S U R P R I S I N G LY H I G H

A quick push of the accelerator resulted in sports car-like acceleration, delivered with exceptional smoothness through the eight-speed BMW transmission. This combination of BMW power and driveline really separates the Grenadier from the oldschool Land Rover Defender it was designed around, which many would say was heavily underpowered. I cannot emphasise enough how nice the vehicle was to drive in terms of power and gear shifting; it certainly did not feel like I was driving a utilitarian 4WD!

T H E G R E N A D I E R F E AT U R E S R E CA R O S E AT S T H R O U G H O U T, O F F E R I N G SUPREME LEVELS OF DRIVER AND PAS S E N G E R C O M F O R T

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T H E S U S P E N S I O N O F F E R S B OT H COMFORT AND AMAZING FLEX C H A R AC T E R I S T I C S

The suspension is also very comfortable on-road, with minimal body roll. Hitching my 1.8T boat to the rear was noticeable but didn’t bother the Grenadier at all, still effortlessly accelerating away from a standstill at the lights, in fact, faster than most other cars, which is perhaps not so notable in Perth though! Fuel consumption was very modest for a 3.0L, six-cylinder vehicle, with 487km of metro driving producing figures of 12.9L/100km and a highway run to Busselton and back, combined with some metro driving showing 12.2L/100km.

With the supplied 90-litre fuel tank, this should see a range of about 700km, and you can now increase that by another 500km or so with an aftermarket auxiliary tank. As I didn’t tow for any substantial distance, I didn’t get a fuel use figure on this, but I would expect it to be somewhere around the 16L/100km mark. I should also note that these figures could come down slightly, as I

was probably enjoying the power on tap that the Grenadier offers more than you would if you were driving this day in and out.

To test out the vehicle's off-road prowess, I headed out to the '4WD proving ground' that is Julimar State Forest in Perth’s northeast. Dropping the tyres down to 18PSI, I engaged low range (with the centre diff lock engaged) and pointed the vehicle towards its first offroad obstacles, which were off-camber track sections and deepish ruts. Almost immediately, I had parking sensors alerting me that I was close to an object, which prompted me to engage the ‘offroad mode’ switch, which quickly turned all sensors off and even allowed me to drive without a seatbelt on (not that I would recommend this).

You can also select a very cool ‘offroad’ information screen, which provides details like tyre pressure and temperature, as well as oil and transmission temperatures. The Grenadier handled everything I pointed it

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towards with ease, offering huge amounts of flex and effortless control thanks to the automatic gearbox. I was especially impressed that the car didn’t really ‘run away’ from me in D during a steepish hill descent, which is common in most automatic 4WDs. Once I selected first gear manually, however, the crawl speed was even better, offering very precise control over the vehicle while descending steep terrain.

Popping the bonnet to air up at the end of the tracks did present me with a slight dilemma that Ineos have thought about, but perhaps not as well as they could have.

With the batteries under the rear seat, attaching my 12V air compressor was not as straight-forward as normal. Ineos provide a single, large positive terminal in the engine bay for jump-starting, etc., but they do not provide a matched negative to the chassis rail. Instead, I had to find an earth through a bolt in the engine bay, which, although

it worked fine, is not ideal for high-amp draw devices as the body is mounted to the chassis through rubber insulation mounts.

Of course, I could have also accessed the battery from under the rear seat, but I didn’t want to ask my passengers to get out so I could do this, and I don’t think this would be practical while 4WD touring.

So, are there any negatives to the Grenadier? The short answer here is yes, but they are certainly not deal-breakers and could be dealt with in later iterations of the vehicle. Although the engine and automatic combination make for effortless metropolitan driving, the Grenadier really isn’t at home in car parks. Here I found a very poor turning circle — I would say as poor as a Toyota LC 70 series — resulting in three-point turns that I normally wouldn’t need to do. The steering was also very heavy, despite being power-assisted, but was only really noticeable at crawl speeds.

I guess this is the price you pay for the

THE ROOF CONSOLE AND AS S O C I AT E D SW I TC H E S G I V E A N A I R C R A F T C O C K P I T- L I K E F E E L TO T H E G R E N A D I E R

THE REAR OF THE G R E N A D I E R I S S PAC I O U S A N D V E RY C O M F O R TA B L E

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twin solid-axle configuration. The vehicle could also benefit from larger side mirrors (especially for towing purposes) with the addition of blindspot indicators, as the car does have large B and C pillars, which can make pulling into traffic a bit unnerving at times.

The biggest question, though, is: will the Grenadier be able to mix it with the likes of the Toyota LC 70 series and Jeep Wrangler?

In my opinion, it’s a resounding yes. The Grenadier is really in a league of its own considering the proven BMW powertrain and driveline it offers, combined with twin solid axles, supreme levels of customisation from the factory, and incredible driver and passenger comfort.

Yes, there are some areas that could be improved on, but considering this is the first vehicle off the production line for Ineos, it really is an amazing achievement. With the upcoming release of the new Quartermaster variant in both dual-cab styleside tray and cab-chassis formats, the Grenadier will certainly give the Toyota LC 70 series a run for its money, offering more power and

comfort and the ability to customise the vehicle from purchase so you get everything you want and nothing that you don’t. I think this review may end up costing me $120K or more in the coming years!

FAST FACTS Engine/transmission: 3.0L BMW B57 I6 twin-turbo diesel/ZF 8-speed automatic with manual override Power/torque: 183kW@3250-3400 RPM/550nm@1250-3000 RPM Suspension: Rigid live axle: front and rear coils Wheels/tyres: 17 inch/265 70 R17 (31.6 inches) or 18 inch/255 70 R18 (32.1 inches) Towing capacity: 3500 kg braked, 750kg unbraked GVM: 3550kg Payload (not including tray): 810–826kg

T H E S I X- CY L I N D E R , T W I N -T U R B O DIESEL BMW ENGINE OCCUPIES T H E B U L K O F T H E S PAC E I N T H E G R E N A D I E R ’ S E N G I N E B AY

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ROCKIN’ THROUGH THE WA

WILDFLOWERS

By COLIN & PRUE KERR They’ve been talked about, sung about, written about, photographed, filmed, and admired by thousands of locals and visitors alike for as long as anyone can remember. Indeed, Western Australia’s wildflowers are world-renowned, with over 12,000 different species, mostly flowering from late winter in WA’s Kimberley region through to early summer along the south coast. Travellers are, in fact, spoilt for choice, and regardless of where they roam in the state, there is always something new and colourful to discover, even at other times of the year.

T

hroughout WA, there are quite a number of well-publicised wildflower trails that range from short two- to three-day outings up to quite extensive adventures lasting several weeks through some of the more remote parts of the state.

O N E S I D E D B OT T L E B R U S H CA LOT H A M N U S Q UA D R I F I D U S

W R E AT H F LOW E R ( L E C H E N AU LT I A M AC R A N T H A )

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DATJ O I N R O C K - N E A R B E AC O N

Living in WA, we have been fortunate to have experienced a number of these trails in the past, and last year, with a couple of weeks free to get away in Spring, it was time to hit the road again and see some more.

This time, however, we decided to add other dimensions to our travels: granite rocks and outback history.

While on the subject of rocks, we have previously visited a few of WA’s fascinating huge granite monoliths, but on studying a detailed map, we recently learned of at least six or eight more large outcrops spread out through some of the state’s best wildflower country in an arc between 200km and 300km north-east of Perth. Armed with this knowledge, we needed no more incentives to hit the trail!

Heading out of the city, we commenced our latest adventure with a caravan in tow at Meckering, the site of a large earthquake back in October 1968, on Great Eastern Highway some 130km east of Perth, where some evidence of the destruction caused all those years ago can still be seen, including one old farm house that has been left exactly as it was after the earthquake — a sobering reminder of nature’s powerful forces.

Our travels from here turned north-east through Wheatbelt country to our first granite outcrop, Yorkrakine Rock, and what a beauty to start our trail of discovery. In the bush around its base, small wildflowers were starting to emerge from their winter recess, and up on the rock itself, we found colourful western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

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sundews in some of the small, still moist depressions in the rock. Our aim on this trip was to climb as many of these rocks as we could, and this one gave us a good work-out before coming back down for an early lunch.

There’s a day-use-only picnic area here, with toilets being the only facility provided.

Another interesting and quite handy aspect of the many rocks we encountered on this trip is that, with mobile service generally quite patchy out here, quite good reception was often obtained up there on top of the rocks! So, if you are ever travelling through this part of the country, carry your mobile in your pocket or backpack on your climbs and enjoy keeping in touch with family and friends with a feeling of 'sitting on top of the world’!

T H E R E WAS A P H O N E S I G N A L O N TO P O F B I L L I B U R N I N G R O C K - N O R T H O F B E AC O N

Further east on our travels, amongst some colourful daisies, grevilleas, and hakeas, Danberrin Hill (named by explorer C.C. Hunt in 1864) has a beaut campsite with a picnic table, toilets and a fire pit. A short walk of about 200 metres takes visitors to a collection of colourful boulders with a huge granite rock at least 100 metres high and several kilometres in circumference towering behind them and a tall monument standing on top in recognition of the pioneers of Nungarin Civil Service Settlement from 1909–1919.

C L I M B I N G YO R K R A K I N E R O C K , N E A R TA M M I N

After enjoying a nice, peaceful camp that night, which we had completely to ourselves, we moved on northwards the next morning again, past wheat crops and a series of brilliant yellow paddocks full of canola. While most roads out here are gravel, they were all in excellent condition, and with crops lining both sides of the road and sections of natural bush with colourful daisies, pink pokers, hakeas, and bottlebrush to be seen along the way (and very little traffic), it was a most pleasant driving experience. Near the small town of Trayning, we stopped off at several more rocks, including Tangplang Rock (many colourful daisies found here), and the nearby Trayning Well, dating back to

CA N O L A C R O P

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1869, was also worth a visit. Curiously, as a sign here pointed out, the Aboriginal name for this area is “snake crawling in the grass near a campsite!”

S C H O E N I A CAS S I N I A N A (S C H O E N I A ) AT TA N G P L A N G R O C K - N E A R K U N U N O P P I N

C O L I N AT O N E O F T H E T R AY N I N G G N A M M A H O L E S - B E T W E E N T R AY N I N G & B E N C U B B I N

Whiteman’s Rock, a tall, stand-alone whitecoloured rock, was our next discovery before reaching quite a broad, low-lying rocky outcrop—the Trayning gnamma holes on the road to Bencubbin. These depressions in the rocks, some only 10 cm to 20 cm deep and others a lot deeper, often contain water for many months after rainfall. These sources of water have been well known to Indigenous Australians in the area for thousands of years, and for early explorers, gnamma holes were a welcome source of water as they travelled through many parts of outback Australia well over 100 years ago.

As we headed towards our next campsite at Marshall Rock, we called into the historic Pergande sheep yards and the ruins of the old Pergande Homestead (dating back to 1913). The intriguing thing about the sheep yards here is that instead of being made of timber, they were constructed with rocks.

From nearby local granite outcrops, thin slabs of rock were peeled off the rock face and carted back to the farm. Quite creatively, using these slabs standing on edge, the early settlers here then made fences/runs to contain, draft, and separate sheep instead

RUINS OF PERGANDE HOMESTEAD NEAR BENCUBBIN

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P E R G A N D E S H E E P YA R D S NEAR BENCUBBIN

of using any form of suitable timber, which must have been in short supply. A curious and quite strange sight indeed!

At Marshall Rock, we found another wellspread-out camping area with toilets and plenty of shade. On the climb to the top of this large rock, we found a number of smaller, strangely shaped boulders balancing on the main rock face, and to our surprise, right up on top, there is a table and chairs placed here to enjoy the panoramic view over the rural countryside. We have made a mental note for next time to carry a drink and happy hour nibbles up to this spot to enjoy as we watch the sun go down.

During our travels, we, in fact, enjoyed a number of great sunsets from both our bush campsites and on top of rocky outcrops.

Another unexpected sight we encountered on our trip (near Bencubbin) was a farm fence extending several hundred metres, created from old bicycles! To collect and then put together so many old bikes and turn them into such an eye-catching sight was indeed quite an achievement!

As the days went by, we passed quite a number of interesting, mostly dry, salt lakes

C O L I N O N TO P O F M A R S H A L L R O C K NEAR BENCUBBIN

as well as plenty more wildflowers, including grevilleas, daisies, small orchids, and cassias.

We also continued to seek out and climb several more rocks, including Datjoin Rocks (another historic well located near here), Billiburning Rock, the Yellari gnamma holes, and Crimpey’s Tank near Beacon, before turning west to Mollerin Rock.

Here, like most of the others, we were presented with another nice, level, wellspread-out campsite with a picnic shelter, fire pits, and an immaculately clean and modern eco-friendly toilet with tank water, all conveniently located at the base of yet another interesting granite rock with plenty more secluded camping spots around its base. With another couple around a campfire that night, we enjoyed a damper cooked in the coals and then topped with jam and cream, all washed down with a few cold drinks during ‘happy hour’! Tough stuff this camping! All of these campsites, by the way, and others still to come, are free of any fees or even donation boxes, all thanks to the local Shires, which provide and maintain these quite splendid facilities.

Recognising these efforts and, of course, the

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hard times these rural communities have experienced in recent years, we are, like lots of other travellers these days, quite happy to spend some money in the small towns along the way at local bakeries, coffees at the town café, fruit and vegetables at roadside stalls, and fuel at local servos — and with friendly smiles and a brief chat, the folk out here clearly appreciate all the support they receive!

At Koorda, we checked out the cleverly and creatively made corn dollies, which are the main attraction of their annual Corn Dolly Festival (held in September each year), before heading to our next camp at Newcarlbean Rock, which, like some of the others, features low cement/rock channelling designed to collect rainwater off the rocks and, via gravity run-off, is channelled to huge tanks set up at the base of the rocks—a clever way to accumulate a reliable water supply out here for both stock and often for farmhouse use.

Our chosen trail then took us further westward, to more gnamma holes (with their colourful sundews), the historic Xantippe Tank, and onwards to Dalwallinu,

C O R N D O L LY O N D I S P L AY I N KO O R DA

well known for its prolific and very colourful displays of many different varieties of wattles. Also worth checking out here in Dalwallinu is another old well (1909) on the edge of town and the splendid Centenary of Anzac Memorial Walls—quite a striking feature in the middle of town. Further on, we called into the lovely old mud brick Cailbro School building, which dates back to 1939 and is still in good condition. With some of its old school desks still in place and plenty of memorabilia around the walls, this was indeed another surprise find during our travels.

Around Wubin, we were on the lookout for the unique wreath flowers, and we were not disappointed. Growing in gravelly soil, right beside and sometimes on the edge of roadways, these curious plants are found nowhere else in the world except for this inland regional area of WA (stretching away to the north-west from here to around Mullewa and Pindar). These colourful flowers, part of the Leschenaultia family, can be seen growing outward in a circular form with the flowers lining the outside rim — quite spectacular. They only flower once a year, usually around August/September/

ACAC I A LO N G I P H Y L LO D I N E A ( LO N G - L E AV E D WAT T L E )

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G N A M M A H O L E AT M I A M O O N RESERVE - NEAR WUBIN

W R E AT H F LOW E R ( L E C H E N AU LT I A M AC R A N T H A )

J I N G E M I A CAV E , WAT H E R O O

M U R A L AT T H R E E S P R I N G S

M E N Z I E S ' B A N KS I A ( B A N KS I A M E N Z I E S I I)

KO O R KO O R L I N Y B I LYA M U R A L - M O O R A

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October (depending on the weather), and like other springflowering wildflowers, they have their best seasons after good late autumn or early winter rain.

Koojan Salmon Gum Reserve, where, once again, we were treated to some lovely sunset colours through the trees!

Next morning, travelling further Near Wubin, Wubin Rock (with south through Bindoon and its nearby gnamma holes) and Muchea, we continued to Buntine Rock were a couple stop regularly, photographing more large granite outcrops and admiring more colourful worth exploring before we wildflower displays and even went searching for three lonely SA N D P L A I N WO O DY the quite strange-looking P E A R ( X Y LO M E LU M historic graves hidden away in woody pears all growing on the ANGUSTIFOLIUM) a small cemetery not far out of side of the road. town. Having ticked these off, On completion of this most enjoyable it was onto the Mia Moon Gnamma Holes adventure trail, which for us included a before heading to Watheroo to check out few rest days here and there, we were another geological feature — the historic away for just two weeks and travelled close Jingemia Cave. to 1,500km, although never more than This huge, deep cave is a significant 300km from Perth. Looking back on our Aboriginal site with a number of experiences, we still felt we had only just mythological stories and ceremonial scratched the surface of what there is to see connections. The cave, deep within a rocky and do in this near-city region. We might hillside, has for years also been the home of just have to do it all again (early-mid Spring) a bat colony, and their droppings (bat poo and include a couple more rocks we didn’t – guano) was mined here for agricultural get to last time! See you out there! fertiliser for a number of years. A short, rocky trail here gives excellent cliff-top views of the cave.

Now heading south, we started to see quite a number of different banksias in flower along the roadside. These quite prolifically flowering bushes make a lovely colourful show, and depending on the variety, they can be seen flowering at different times of the year.

Another appealing feature of our travels through some of the small rural towns along this route is that apart from all being extremely clean and tidy, many have created some beaut attractions, including colourful murals, sculptures, art works, and agricultural displays, all clearly showing the pride these small communities have in themselves. Congratulations to them all.

After passing through Moora with its beautiful murals and sculptures, our final night in the bush just south of town was at

I N FO R M ATI O N BAY There are several different Wheatbelt Way Drive Trail maps and wildflower guide booklets available from local information centres along the way.

If you are looking for other accommodation options apart from all the free camping sites at many locations, there are caravan parks in a number of towns as well as hotels, cabins, and B&B options available. Check with any of the local information centres.

The Shire of Dalwallinu also has plenty of valuable information on its website dalwallinu.wa.gov.au, or by phone at (08) 9661 0500. The Dalwallinu Wattle week is held in the second week of September and includes farm and wildflower bus tours.

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WILDFLOWER WALKS IN WA B y JA N E & M I C H A E L P E LU S E Y Western Australia is justifiably world-famous for its wildflowers. It makes the top ten lists worldwide and has the most variety. Many of these botanical hotspots get busy during peak times in spring, so if you want some solitude in nature, hit a walking trail.

Avid hikers and wildflower lovers, Jane and Michael Pelusey have put together some of their favourite wildflower walking trails. The wildflowers bloom first in the north and then start blooming further south as the weather gets warmer.

The intensity of wildflower displays depends on rain falling at the right time of the year. For example, 2023 had a poor season due to drought conditions, but the year before was a bumper season after plenty of winter rain.

Check local shires or wildflower social media groups before setting out.

Information and directions for all these trails can be found at trailswa.com.au western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

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1

COALS EAM PL ATEAU LOOP Class 3 3.2km return Up to two hours, depending on stops Coalseam Conservation Park is about 100km east of Geraldton and protects a rare area of Wheatbelt eucalypt woodland This trail offers plenty of variety for walkers that don’t mind a few short, steep bits and the occasional rock-hopping. The standout feature of this walk are the vast carpets of pink and white everlastings that paint the landscape after winter rains. The trail leaves Miners Campground, where visitors can camp for up to three nights in tents or caravans (unpowered). Amongst the gnarly York gum trees, the walk passes by remnants of an old coal mine that operated for a short time in the 1840s. The trail winds up a not-too-challenging slope onto a plateau where yellow pompom everlastings dominate. Sweeping views of the valley add another dimension to one of our favourite places to see wildflowers. For a bit of interesting geology, you can walk along the banks of the normally dry Irwin River and check out the rock layers on the cliffside.

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M U LLEWA B U S H L AN D TR AI L Class 3 2.2km Around one hour Mullewa Scenic Lookout

The Wildflower Way, through northern Wheatbelt towns such as Perenjori, Mingenew, Dalwallinu, Moora and Morawa, is an incredibly popular drive trail during the springtime.

Although you can easily access wildflowers from your parked car, we have chosen a beautiful little walk starting in the town of Mullewa. Almost starting in town, this short trail has a wonderful range of wildflowers in a small area. The undulating and relatively easy loop trail starts and ends at Mullewa Scenic Lookout, with nice views of the town and surrounding farms. Along the way, keep an eye out for small caves in the rocky outcrops. Expect to see wildflowers in mass profusion, such as pink, white, and yellow paper daisies, pom-poms, various grevilleas, and wattles, to name just a few.

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3

Y U E D PONAR TR AI L Class 4 6km Two to three hours Mount Lesueur National Park

With over 900 species of plants and 100 of them found nowhere else, Lesueur National Park is another recognised global biodiversity hotspot. One of the best ways to really appreciate this wonderful variety of wildflowers is to put on the hiking boots and hit the trails. In springtime, expect to see a huge variety of wildflowers, such as ground orchids, melaleucas, banksias and wandoo woodlands. The Yued Ponar Trail itself is quite challenging, with plenty of steep, hilly sections. The payoff for the effort is some fantastic views of the surrounding countryside. The trail starts at the Cockleshell Gully picnic area off Cockleshell Gully Road.

For the keen hiker, take on the 26km Yonga Walk Trail. To fully soak in the beauty of the region, it's best to take two days and camp overnight. Two other walking trails are easier and shorter alternatives. They are the Gairdner Trail, a Class 3, 2.5km loop, and the Class 3, 4km Lesueur Trail. The first 250 metres of the Lesueur Trail is wheelchair-friendly.

It's best to avoid hiking in the summer months, as it's often very hot and prone to bushfires.

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B LU F F KNOLL SU M M IT TR AI L Class 4 6.8km return Around three to four hours Stirling Ranges

The Stirling Ranges, near the south coast of WA, is a biodiversity hotspot with over 1,500 plant species (and still counting). What’s more, at least 100 species are found nowhere else on Earth. There are plenty of hiking trails within the Stirling Ranges, but for most fit walkers, the most popular is the Bluff Knoll Summit Trail. At 1,098 metres above sea level, the steep path takes the walker through a range of climatic zones, from temperate to alpine, resulting in a wide range of plant species. Look out for beautiful mountain bells and the Scarlett Banksia.

Throughout the Stirling Ranges, there are at least 50 species of ground orchids, including the spectacular and elusive Queen of Sheba orchid. On reaching the summit, there are glorious views across other parts of the Stirling Ranges and expansive farmlands beyond. On a clear day, you can see the Southern Ocean. Be prepared for dramatic weather changes and dress accordingly, even in summer. Light snow can occasionally fall in winter, so always have a rain jacket with you, even if it's sunny. western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

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EAST M OU NT BAR R E N TR AI L Class 4 3km return Two to three hours Fitzgerald National Park

There are more flowering plant species in this one national park than in the whole United Kingdom. With over 1,800 species of plants and a crazy 75 of them found nowhere else, Fitzgerald National Park is an absolute must for any wildflower enthusiast. Although there’s always something flowering, the peak blooming time is between September and November.

The superstar is the spectacular Royal Hakea, followed, in my opinion, by the Qualup Bell.

There are plenty of walking trails in the park, with varying degrees of difficulty and length.

For a great selection of flowering plants with many endemic species, it’s hard to go past the East Mount Barren Trail. It is a relatively short 3km return trail but is quite challenging if you are aiming for the summit, where there are superb views of the rugged coastline. If pushing to the summit doesn’t float your boat, the trail is easy at the beginning for awe-inspiring wildflower displays.

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JOURNEY to the HEART of the KIMBERLEY A 13-NIGHT ADVENTURE ABOARD THE KIMBERLEY PEARL B y M I C H A E L (S P I K E ) C O L L I N S

The Kimberley and Pilbara regions of north-west Australia hold an almost inexplicable allure. Whether it's the deep Indigenous connections, the rich tapestry of ancient and modern history, the sheer remoteness, or the breathtakingly rugged landscape, this part of the world has a unique charm. From Onslow in the southern Pilbara to Wyndham in the East Kimberley, the region is a blend of ancient landscapes meeting the vast ocean, creating a truly special experience.

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A N E W P E R S P ECTI V E

the fridge each day for you — hard, I know!

Over the years, I thought I had seen all that Western Australia had to offer, particularly the North West. I've traversed countless roads and tracks, yet I had never experienced the Kimberley coastline by boat. This changed when I joined Kimberley Pearl Charters on their 13-night voyage from Wyndham to Cygnet Bay aboard the beautifully refurbished former Pearling vessel, now known as the Kimberley Pearl.

The afternoon saw the passengers get to know one another as we steamed north past the stunning Cockburn Ranges, out of the Cambridge Gulf, and towards the King George River.

TH E J O U R N E Y B EG I N S My wife, Jonine, joined me on this trip, and our adventure began in Wyndham and concluded in Cygnet Bay, traversing some of the most spectacular and untouched scenery in the world. If you’re travelling the Kimberley on four wheels, Kimberley Pearl Charters have you covered, offering secure vehicle parking for the time spent away.

DAY 1 : B OA R D I N G I N W Y N D H A M Upon boarding the Kimberley Pearl, Captain Rod and First Mate Bec welcomed us with sparkling wine, a safety briefing, and an introduction to the crew, setting the tone for the days ahead. As the vessel is not licensed, all passengers need to pre-purchase their own alcohol. Simply fill out the drinks list provided to you by the team, and all of your drinks will be delivered to the vessel awaiting your arrival. The crew even top up

DAY 2 : K I N G G EO RG E R I V E R Our first full day brought us to Koolama Bay. After breakfast, we explored Pengali Cove by tender, enjoying a refreshing dip. Later, we crossed the sandbar and steamed up the King George River, stopping at the Fountain of Youth and One Tree for another swim.

The highlight was reaching the majestic King George Falls, where we felt the powerful rush of water and the timeless energy of this ancient land. Known as Oomari to the Balanggarra people, it’s Western Australia’s highest twin waterfall and represents the male and female Wunkurr (Rainbow Serpents).

DAY 3 : KO O L A M A BAY We began the day exploring the surroundings of King George Falls and then journeyed to Koolama Bay. The voyage through the swells of the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf was rough but exhilarating. Captain Rod took the Kimberley Pearl through the night, passing Cape Londonderry on route to Vansittart Bay.

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DAY 4 : VA N S IT TA R T BAY

DAY 5 : SW I F T BAY

Vansittart Bay greeted us with calm waters and a breathtaking sunrise before we visited the historic site of the C53 plane crash from World War II. In 1942 the flight was scheduled to return from Perth to Broome but became disorientated in the dark of night and the pilot resorted to an emergency wheels-up landing some 600 kilometres from its destination. The plane was declared missing in action until it was discovered a few days later with all passengers and crew accounted for.

A beautiful sunrise greeted us in Swift Bay. We explored ancient rock art sites, including the ‘Battle Scene’ and the ‘Boulder’. First Mate Bec provided insightful interpretations of the art and its cultural significance.

After lunch, we enjoyed more fishing before ending the day enjoying the natural spectacle of marine life around the boat, highlighted by the gentle presence of Tawny Nurse Sharks.

Next we explored ancient Indigenous rock art on Jar Island. The Gwion Gwion art and Bradshaw rock paintings, estimated to be 12,000 years old, were a sight to behold.

The afternoon was spent fishing in Rocky Cove, where we caught Mangrove Jack, Fingermark and a few large Cod. Fingermark, also called Golden Snapper in the Northern Territory, is from the same family as the Mangrove Jack. It derives its name from the distinctive 'thumb print'like black spot found near its tail when just landed. This spot will fade as the fish dies, as will its magnificent copper colouring.

It is a splendid fish, incredible to eat, and they offer a dogged, hard battle when first hooked.

DAY 6 : W I N YA LK I N I S L A N D A N D PA LM I S L A N D We explored the Lost City rock formations and ancient art. The incredible sandstone structures created an otherworldly atmosphere. A quick dip at a secluded beach on Palm Island and foraging for Black Lip Rock Oysters were highlights. Drinks and nibbles on the bow at sunset and another fantastic dinner made for a perfect day as we sailed towards the Hunter River.

DAY 7: H U NTE R R I V E R A N D CA R E E N I N G BAY Crabbing in Porosus Creek was thrilling, especially as we encountered numerous saltwater crocodiles. One pesky croc decided to take off with our crab pot, and after a short struggle, he gave up, I guess with the

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contents! The day also included marvelling at the stunning scenery of the Hunter River and Prince Frederick Harbour. Drinks and nibbles on the bow were made even more special with the fresh oysters caught the day prior being served natural and Kilpatrick!

DAY 8 : P R I N C E R EG E NT R I V E R The eighth day brought us to the majestic Prince Regent River and Kings Cascades.

The sight of the cascading waterfalls was awe-inspiring, and a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear pools atop the falls was a highlight. After another successful fishing expedition, we cruised downstream and anchored in Rothsay Waters for the night.

The increasing humidity signalled our transition into the western Kimberley, adding a new dimension to our journey.

magical. We then set off for Montgomery Reef, enjoying another spectacular sunset and a delightful dinner en route.

DAY 9 : ROTH SAY WATE R S TO H A N OV E R BAY

DAY 1 0 : M O NTG O M E RY R E E F A N D D O U BTFU L BAY

Although the elusive Barramundi remained out of reach, we had better luck with Mangrove Jack and Fingermark again. The morning excitement of the catch combined with the stunning landscape made for a perfect start to the day. A scenic walk in Hanover Bay allowed us to marvel at the incredible scenery. With high red bluffs that peak during sunrise, this place is truly

Montgomery Reef’s dramatic tidal changes provided an astonishing marine spectacle.

As we cruised along the exposed reef, we were in awe at the torrents of cascading water and the rich marine life, including many turtles. After a quick dip on a small sandbar, which disappeared almost as soon as we landed, we headed to Doubtful Bay for a swim at Ruby Falls. The secluded

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landscape, enriching our understanding and appreciation of the area. As the evening set in, we sailed towards Silvergull Creek, surrounded by stories and laughter.

DAY 1 2 : S I LV E RG U LL C R E E K TO YA M P I SO U N D

freshwater pool and the surrounding beauty made for a perfect afternoon before the day concluded with a peaceful anchorage in Talbot Bay.

DAY 11 : TA LB OT BAY (H O R IZO NTA L FA LLS) Experiencing the famous Horizontal Falls was truly the highlight of our day. From the tenders, we marvelled at the surging tides and the sight of water rushing through the two narrow gorges of the McLarty Range, producing waterfalls turned on their side.

This powerful spectacle left us in sheer wonder.

Our adventure continued to Cyclone Creek, where First Mate Bec shared a fascinating geological overview of the

Our final full day aboard the Kimberley Pearl began with exploring Silvergull Creek.

Captain Rod shared the history of ‘Squatters Arms,’ a bush block setting high on a point in a picturesque bay in the Dampier Archipelago, accessible only by boat. The afternoon was spent on Silica Beach, a pristine paradise with the softest white silica sand. As the day ended, we returned to the boat for a quiz hosted by the crew, a celebratory dinner, and a video of the trip highlights, a wonderful reflection on our incredible journey.

DAY 1 3 : CYG N E T BAY With heavy hearts, we awoke to our final morning in Cygnet Bay. The camaraderie among the passengers was palpable as we shared our last breakfast in almost complete silence, each of us reluctant to leave. After landing on the shore, we boarded the

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Kimberley Pearl Charters courtesy bus, reflecting on everything we’d experienced over the past two weeks.

C O N C LU S I O N This cruise is perfect for seasoned travellers with a thirst for adventure, particularly those aged 50 and above. It offers an intimate experience without the frills and cost of larger cruises and an opportunity to see places in Western Australia you simply can’t reach by road.

FO O D A N D D R I N K The culinary experience aboard the Kimberley Pearl is a delightful journey of fresh, Asian fusion cuisine with a touch of Broome flair. Each day, guests enjoy expertly prepared daily catches by Chef Claire, who meticulously caters to all dietary needs.

DAY-TO - DAY ACTI V ITI ES In addition to the scheduled activities, passengers enjoy impromptu excursions, croc watching, bird watching, and freshwater swims. The crew's flexibility ensures a unique and unforgettable experience every day.

AC C O M M O DATI O N D E TA I LS The Kimberley Pearl offers six comfortable cabins, each with an ensuite bathroom.

The cabins, though cosy, provide a restful

retreat after a day of adventure. The main deck cabins are a little more spacious than the cabins below, enhancing the luxury and intimacy of the experience.

B EST TI M E TO G O The optimal time for a Kimberley cruise is from March to October, when the weather is favourable and the tides create the most dramatic landscapes.

TH E U N FO RG E T TA B LE EXPERIENCE This journey aboard the Kimberley Pearl was more than just a cruise; it was a personal exploration of one of the world’s last true wildernesses. The rugged beauty, rich cultural heritage, and unparalleled adventure created an experience that will stay with me for a long time. Having spent many years promoting self-drive travel around Western Australia, I now have something new and extraordinary to share.

I N FO R M ATI O N BAY For more information, check out: kimberleypearl.com.au western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

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WILD RIDES & COUNTRY FUN

B A R R E L R AC E AT T H E M O U N T I SA RODEO, QLD

GET READY

TO

RODEO

By COLIN KERR

44 | Western 4W Driver #131 | western4wdriver.com.au

Rodeo as a sport has a long and proud history in Australia, based around our legendary Aussie stockmen and women working on outback cattle stations right around the country.

F

or years now, in fact, rodeos, held in many of our country towns and on large outback stations, have been a highlight on their entertainment calendars for both locals and visitors alike whenever they are held... and increasingly RV travellers are adding these great fun events to their ‘must see’ lists to check out along the way.

Yes, there is something about a rodeo with its thrills and spills that really gets the emotions stirred and hearts pumping as country men and women pit their skills both against other competitors as well as the mean, feisty steers, bulls, and broncs, all performing out there in the arena in front of hundreds, if not thousands, of cheering supporters. Indeed, decked out in their best jeans, their boots all shined up, their spurs clipped on, and cowboy hats on top, these extremely keen competitors are ready to play!

everyone’s favourites — the big three — bareback riding, saddle bronc riding, and of course, bull riding, which for many is the most exciting and dangerous of them all.

With wild bucking beasts going by such intimidating names as Fire Cracker, Black Widow, Chainsaw, Suicidal Blond, Cranky, Wild Thing, Scrambled Eggs, Pineapple Crush, and many others, these events are not only action packed; they are often bone crunching, dare-devil challenges, which more often than not see the rider clearly come off second best!

Indeed, can you imagine how these riders must feel as the chutes break open and they are hurled around everywhere, trying to hang on for grim death until their time is up? How can eight seconds possibly take so long? And even if they ‘make the time’ for their ride, how do they then get off this angry, bucking brute without getting crushed, stomped on, or even gored as they make their (usually quite undignified) escape ‘off its back’?

For those who have not experienced one, a typical country rodeo usually has an actionpacked, almost non-stop program involving steer riding and wrestling, rope and tie, team roping, barrel racing, breakaway roping, poddy rides (for the kids), and

western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

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B U L L R I D I N G AT T H E M O U N T I SA R O D E O , Q L D

D O N K E Y R AC E AT AILERON, NT

TO M W I L LO U G H BY, B U L L R I D I N G AT T H E AILERON BUSH WEEKEND — AILERON, NT

This is truly a sport that is not for the faint-hearted! In fact, it has been said, “If you have the guts to get on a bull or bronc and buck out of a chute, then you have the courage to do almost anything you can dream of.”

Throughout the program, whether it be for an afternoon, full day, or even spread over two or three days, there are often novelty events including bush poets, whip cracking, clowns, gumboot throwing, bush poets, and, at one recent rodeo, the entertainment also included a series of ‘Mexican’ donkey riding events, which, in some cases, featured the riders (wearing ponchos and Mexican hats) clinging on backwards as the donkeys came out of the chute! And at night there is often a good old-fashioned bush dance — all really great fun indeed!

All too soon, the whole event is over.

The winners have plenty to brag about and celebrate, and the others set about drowning their sorrows and nursing their tired, aching bodies ... But regardless, we know that they will all be back next year to do it all again.

BEHIND THE SCENES One of the most important parts of any rodeo is the quality of the stock to be roped, thrown and ridden. Firstly, they must be in tip-top physical condition when they come out onto the arena, and, of course, they must be the best running, bucking rodeo beasts, both cattle and horses, that the rodeo organisers can arrange for their usually once a year action-packed program.

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TEAM ROPING — M O U N T I SA R O D E O , Q L D

SA D D L E B R O N C AT T H E M O U N T I SA R O D E O , Q L D

D O N K E Y R AC E E N T R A N T H A N G I N G O N — AT A I L E R O N , N T

This largely behind-the-scenes activity usually involves the rounding up, loading and transporting of stock some hundreds of kilometres away to an individual rodeo or, on occasions, to a short series of rodeos sometimes held on consecutive weekends in several remote country towns.

This demanding job, falling on the shoulders of stock handlers and truckies, is what helps to make the whole program flow smoothly throughout and ensures the fit, healthy, feisty beasts all perform at their bucking best!

Whilst all the main action is taking place out there in the centre of the arena, out the back the stock throughout the event has to be looked after, fed, and watered, and at the end of the program, once again they have to be loaded back into trucks and road

trains to head back to where they came from or perhaps further up the road to the next rodeo event.

With cattle prods in hand, the loading and unloading of these often still quite feisty beasts requires the time, skill and experience of all those involved. Yes indeed, without all the hard work carried out behind the scenes, country rodeos just wouldn’t happen... And at the end of the day, with all stock safely delivered back to where they belong, only then can these hard-working rodeo team members finally put their feet up and celebrate another job well done!

On your next travels, check Visitor Information Centres or go online to find out about a rodeo happening near you and get involved in the fun. Yeehaa!

western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

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THRILLS AND SPILLS IN S T E E R W R E S T L I N G — AT M O U N T I SA R O D E O , Q L D C H E R RY M E R RY M U S T E R F E S T I VA L — C LO N C U R RY, Q L D

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Another real attraction at many small town or outback station rodeos is the opportunity to camp or set up your RV in open space adjacent to the rodeo arena. Here you are just a short walk to all the action and also have plenty of opportunity to have a yarn with the volunteers and competitors in and around the arena. These folk are generally happy, friendly country people who are always willing to answer questions and talk about the events or other local attractions.

I N FO R M ATI O N BAY Further rodeo information and event calendars are available on the internet, including at the following sites:

CA M P I N G A M O N G S T T H E CAT T L E T R U C KS AT T H E A I L E R O N B U S H W E E K E N D, N T

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prorodeo.com.au abcra.com.au nationalrodeoassociation.com.au

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G A R R E T T P R O - P O I N T E R AT

USING PIN POINTERS WHEN METAL PRODUCT GUIDE DETECTING B y LU K E C L AT WO R T H Y Ever dug a hole only to discover your treasure is hiding deeper than expected? Frustrated by the time it takes to pinpoint your finds? Then a pin pointer is the essential metal detecting accessory you've been missing!

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MINELAB PRO FIND 40

W

hen at a specific location searching for coins and relics, a pin pointer is an extremely handy accessory that can greatly assist you in finding the target you have detected with your metal detector and potentially save you time and effort in the process. Pin pointers are small handheld VLF (Very Low Frequency) metal detectors that use a combination of sound and vibration to zero in on where a coin or metallic object is situated.

The closer the pin pointer is to a target in a hole you have dug, the more pronounced it will beep and vibrate. Most targets discovered when metal detecting are still well hidden in the initial hole you have dug, and sometimes they are much deeper than first thought. This is when a quality

N O K TA AC C U P O I N T 8

pin pointer can make the difference in whether you successfully recover the object detected or not. These mini metal detectors are relatively inexpensive and very easy to master and use.

As per your larger metal detector, there are a vast range of pin pointers on the market.

Most of the leading metal detector brands design and manufacture pin pointers. If you plan to only metal detect for gold nuggets, a pin pointer is not required due to the heavy mineralisation encountered in the Goldfields regions of Western Australia. If you have purchased a coin and relic metal detector and will be using it at the beach, park, and inland locations where coins, jewellery, and metallic relics could be found, a pin pointer will make life just that little bit easier.

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Reducing the time taken to find a target allows you to detect for longer and increases your chances of uncovering potential treasure!

Let's examine in greater detail three of the best-known brands of pin pointers available here and examine their specific capabilities and performance to assist you in making the best choice if you want to add one of these lightweight and compact units to your detecting equipment arsenal.

M I N E L AB Minelab have four versions of pin pointers available here in Australia. They are the Pro-Find range, consisting of the Pro-Find 15, Pro-Find 30, Pro-Find 35, and the top of the range, Pro-Find 40. The Pro-Find 40 is the latest edition to the range and is a best seller amongst the metal-detecting fraternity. These are predominately red and black in colour, while the Pro-Find 15–35 pin pointers are yellow and black. I will focus on the top of the range, Pro-Find 40, and its main features listed below: • Waterproof to a depth of three metres.

• Available with five adjustable sensitivity levels.

• Overall increase in detection depth over other Minelab Pin Pointers of 10%.

• High visibility with Lost Alarm Function to help you find your Pro-Find 40 when misplaced or lost. The Pro-Find 40 will also save battery life, as it automatically switches off after not being used for five minutes.

• Two-tone Ferrous ID helps identify ferrous junk from non-ferrous targets of value, such as coins and jewellery.

• VLF (Very Low Frequency) and DIF operation allowing for a significant reduction in interference with your metal detector when in operation.

• Audio and Vibration functionality: As the Pro-Find 40 comes closer to a buried target, audio tones and vibration increase.

It comes with audio and vibration indication.

• Built-in LED flashlight.

• Includes belt holster, lanyard, and 9 Volt PP 3 Battery in the purchase price.

• Rapid Retune Function allowing the ProFind 40 to be readjusted to most ground conditions with the push of a button.

• Battery Life: 20 hours nominal.

• Weight: 234 grams.

• Comes with a two-year factory warranty.

• Recommended Retail Price: $249–$269 Pro-Find 40 Overall: I have previously used a Minelab Pro-Find Pin Pointer for several years and have been impressed with its quality, ease of use, and strong construction. The Pro-Find 40 is an excellent pin pointer that provides issue-free use across all types of conditions.

They are designed here in Australia and extensively tested here prior to being available on the local market. Best of all, they are easy to use and find targets with speed and accuracy.

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GARRET T Garrett Metal Detectors have two main versions of pin pointers on the market in Australia. They are the Pro-Pointer AT and the Pro-Pointer AT Z-Lynk. These Garrett pin pointers are bright orange in colour and are often nicknamed the 'Garrett Carrot'. Both versions have the same specifications and features (see below) to help detectorists speed up their target recovery. The ProPointer AT Z-Lynk also includes built-in Z-Lynk wireless technology, allowing it to be paired with any Garrett Z-Lynk wireless receiver.

Their main features are:

• A ruler calibrated in inches (great for those of us who learned imperial measurements) and centimetres moulded into the side of the pin pointer to aid in judging target depth.

• Fully waterproof to just over three metres.

Their orange colour provides added visibility when used underwater.

• Lanyard Attachment Loop moulded into the side of the pin pointer.

• Patented Proportional Audio/Vibration

• Maximum sensitivity for improved detection of small targets. Both Garrett pin pointers are equipped with three sensitivity levels.

• Pinpointing tip and 360° detection area

• Fast Retune: A quick button press instantly tunes out the environment or narrows the detection field for precise pinpointing of larger targets. This feature also shrinks the detection field to pinpoint larger targets as well. It also has the capability to pinpoint multiple targets versus one large target signal.

• Lost Pro-Pointer Alarm: After five minutes with no button presses, this pin pointer emits periodic warning chirps to assist in finding the unit if misplaced when detecting.

• Automatic power-off after five minutes of warning chirps, which saves batteries. The power button to turn the pin pointer on or off is easy to operate, even when wearing gloves.

• Simple, single-button operation for Power, Retune, Sensitivity Adjustment, and Stealth Mode (allowing for quieter operation, especially handy in crowded search areas such as beaches).

• LED flashlight for low-light uses.

• Includes a woven belt holster and a 9-volt battery.

• Operates in temperatures ranging from -35°F (-37°C) to 158°F (70°C).

• Waterproof Rating: 10 feet (three metres) maximum depth; IP 68.

• Battery Life: Carbon: 16 hours; Alkaline: 30 hours; and Rechargeable: eight hours. It takes one 9-volt battery.

• It comes with a three-year, limited parts and labour warranty.

• Weighs 200 grams.

• Recommended Retail Price: $269 for the Pro-Pointer AT and $299 for the ProPointer AT Z-Lynk Overall: The Garrett Pro-Pointer AT pin pointers are very popular in Australia and around the world and work extremely well in our local conditions. They are well built, rugged, and very simple to operate. Input from Garrett users in Australia is utilised when updated versions are produced. An excellent choice in pin pointers for people wishing to detect coins, jewellery, and relics.

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NOK TA The Nokta AccuPoint has been introduced to the Australian market only recently and is an update on previous Nokta Pin Pointers available. Nokta products are gaining popularity here in Australia. The new AccuPoint is a bright yellow colour, making it very easy to see when out detecting. Users of this new pin pointer have christened it 'The Nokta Banana'. This pin pointer shares a range of features with the two brands mentioned previously. However, it does come with some new additions and capabilities that have not been seen on a pin pointer before. Let us delve a little deeper into what it has to offer.

• Easy one-button operation. Besides the obvious option of turning the pin pointer off and on, the same single button controls all other built-in features. Simple yet effective.

• Fully waterproof to a depth of three metres. This means it can be used with a Nokta Underwater metal detector.

This also allows the operator to be able to properly wash the AccuPoint to remove any accumulated dirt and grime.

This makes it an ideal unit if you enjoy detecting in and out of the water at the beach.

• Colour LCD Screen: Again, this is a first for any pin pointer. The bright-colour LCD display built into the AccuPoint provides easy-to-understand icons for battery level, sensitivity, and a range of other optional settings. It also comes with a screen protector that is pre-installed.

• Iron Discrimination: This feature allows you to distinguish between iron objects such as nails, pull-tabs, aluminium foil, etc., and coins and other relics of value such as silver and gold rings and jewellery.

This is very useful when a target of value also has other iron objects buried nearby, ultimately saving you time and effort when detecting.

• Bluetooth Audio Connectivity: The wireless low-latency Bluetooth connectivity found in the AccuPoint allows the detectorist to pair this pin pointer with Nokta’s Bluetooth Headphones as used on their Legend, Simplex and Score series of metal detectors. This means that when a detectorist switches on the AccuPoint, they will be able to hear its signals through their headphones. Once the AccuPoint is switched off, the headphones reconnect to your Nokta Metal Detector.

Note that this feature is only applicable if you use a Nokta Metal Detector with an AccuPoint pin pointer.

• USB Rechargeable Battery: The USB rechargable battery built into the AccuPoint means you can charge the device anywhere you can charge your phone. As such, the AccuPoint will provide up to a 25-hour battery life. It comes equipped with a USB Type-C charging cable.

• Nine levels of adjustable sensitivity.

• Three detection modes to choose from: Audio / Vibration / Audio and Vibration • Removable detection tip. The tip of pin pointers can become damaged when searching through dirt and pebbles for a target detected. The Nokta AccuPoint

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CONC LU S ION

comes with a removable tip that can be replaced should it become damaged.

This is another unique feature of the AccuPoint.

• Lost Alarm Function: The AccuPoint emits an audible signal if misplaced when detecting.

• LED Flashlight and Backlight for operating in low-light areas and in darkness.

• Operates in temperatures of -20°C/+50°C (-4°F/+122°F).

• Comes with a two-year factory warranty.

• Weighs 217 grams.

• Recommended Retail Price: $249 - $299.

At the time of writing, most stockists can supply an AccuPoint for $249. There is also a more basic Nokta pin pointer available that can be purchased for as little as $159.

Overall: The new Nokta AccuPoint is a fantastic new pin pointer available to Australian metal detectorists. It is of sturdy construction and works very efficiently in local conditions. It possesses a range of additional features not previously seen on other pin pointers, including the unique colour LED screen, nine levels of sensitivity, and a built-in rechargeable battery, enabling longer periods of use when operating in the field. The replaceable detection tip is also a first, allowing damaged tips to be easily replaced, and when purchased, the unit comes with a spare tip. It is an extremely impressive pin pointer, and it is also simple to operate and master. I have used this pin pointer exclusively for the last few months here in Western Australia, with great success. If you choose an AccuPoint, my advice is to shop around to find the best retail price from a designated Australian Nokta dealer.

All the pin pointers described are quality units that work effectively in our soil types and conditions. They share a host of functions and capabilities, and all three of them have some features that are unique to their particular brand. All would make brilliant additions to your metal detecting kit; your final decision may come down to what best suits your needs, model and make preference, product reputation and availability, and which of the pin pointers mentioned provides the best value for money.

A pin pointer’s list of functions and overall capability should also be seriously considered before making your final choice.

If you are in the market for a pin pointer, it is advisable to look online for independent reviews of each of the products I have outlined, as well as speak to your metal detector stockist or an experienced coin and relic detectorist prior to making that allimportant final decision. I am confident that you cannot go wrong if you choose one of the three outstanding pin pointers reviewed here. Happy detecting everyone!

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WHY YOU DON’T WANT A

GVM UPGRADE B y DAV I D W I LS O N The allure of oversized caravans and hefty towing capacities has led many 4WD owners down a path of unnecessary expense and compromise. In reality, a simpler approach to off-road touring can be more rewarding and safer. By focusing on vehicle preparation, load management, and realistic expectations, adventurers can explore the outback without sacrificing comfort or safety.

E V E N A 70 - S E R I E S L A N D C R U I S E R WITH ALL THE BELLS AND W H I S T L E S CA N C O M E U N D O N E , A N D W I T H S P E C TAC U L A R R E S U LT S .

W

hat is probably the worst thing you can do to your 4WD? Equip it with a GVM upgrade.

Okay, that probably sent some of you into a spin, so hear me out.

I’m going to pin some of the blame in this yarn on the RV industry and all the attendant businesses sucking on the teat of the Grey Nomad set. Big caravans are nothing new; they’ve been around forever, but what has changed is their complexity, with fitouts resembling a modern house with all the gadgets and then some, and ultimately that makes them heavy. Really heavy when you fill them up with water!

To take one of these house-on-wheels from caravan park to caravan park, you need a tow tug, and here is the great lie ... GVMs of 3,500kg.

Every vehicle maker selling a 4WD in this country with a traditional mid-size ute or wagon markets a buggy in their range that is supposedly able to tug 3,500kg, and that little gem is so far removed from reality that it is definitely not funny. In fact, it’s downright dangerous, and I can’t fathom why, in this litigious age we live in, regulators have let this farce go on for so long.

The way I see it, it is just an exercise in numbers, and a complicated one at that,

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I S UZU R E C E N T LY R E V E A L E D W I T H T H E R E L E AS E O F T H E N E W M U -X , A S I G N I F I CA N T J O LT I N T H E TOW CA PAC I T Y F R O M 3 , 0 0 0 KG TO 3 , 5 0 0 KG .

T H E R E A R E CAV E AT S O F C O U R S E !

T H I S VA N H A D A M AJ O R W H O O P S I E M O M E N T W H E N L I K E LY TO O H E AV Y F O R T H I S 1 0 0 - S E R I E S A N D T I P P E D A TO E I N T H E D I R T.

getting the GVM (Gross Vehicle Mass) and the GCM (Gross Combination Mass) numbers to marry up within the maker’s definition of what constitutes a maximum load capacity. It has nothing to do with reality because those same utes and wagons are underpowered, under-braked and definitely under-suspended to pull or carry those sorts of loads.

I see it all the time. Take a trip into the Red Centre, Broome, or anywhere else the nomads are nomadding and you’ll see these vehicles groaning under the mass of their owner’s kit, nose pointing to the heavens and bum dragging on the ground. That

E V E N A N E W N E X T- G E N R A N G E R W I L L B R E A K I T S B AC K W H E N OV E R LOA D E D. A L L I T N E E D S I S A B I G E N O U G H T H U M P A N D YO U R GV M U P G R A D E I S WO R T H N O U G H T.

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H Y B R I D CA R AVA N S M I X CA M P E R T R A I L E R W I T H CA R AVA N , B E S T O F B OT H WO R L D S A LO N G W I T H A C O M PAC T S I Z E A N D L I K E LY W E I G H T, P E R F E C T F O R LU G G I N G A R O U N D T H E C O U N T RY I N C O M F O R T.

I D O N ’ T F I N D T H I S E N T E R TA I N I N G AT A L L .

T H E R V I N D U S T RY P R O M I S E S E S CA P E , B U T I N R E A L I T Y, A L L YO U ’ R E G E T T I N G I S C O N F I N E M E N T O F A D I F F E R E N T K I N D.

attitude spells trouble with the first big wind-shear event (like passing a b-double semi at highway speeds), whipping the 4WD and van into a shimmy they’ll likely not recover from: all smashed up on the side of the road, holiday in ruins, and passengers likely hurt.

So to correct that ‘attitude’ problem, the lemmings accept the advice that the canny suspension makers peddle in cahoots with the RV industry, and that is a GVM upgrade.

With the old suspenders chucked out and new GVM+ ones installed, you’ll end up with a ridiculously oversprung vehicle with a detestable ride (and especially so if you’re in the habit of overinflating your tyres), but hey, it’s now legal with its ten percent increase in load rating, so that must be good!

I’m pushing back big time here on the caravan set, because frankly, I couldn’t think of anything worse than using up my precious time on the planet than being corralled into a caravan park, cheek-byjowl with a million other similarly afflicted punters in a mini-suburbia that I was trying to escape!

My version of escape is without the madding crowd and visiting a truly wild space, and the only way you’re going to get there is with something nimble, more patrol boat than battleship.

YO U WA N T A B I G I M P R OV E M E N T ?

SWA P T H E S TO C K T Y R E S F O R S O M E T H I N G W I T H S O M E S U B S TA N C E . A I M I N G F O R A T Y R E W I T H A M I N I M U M 1 2 0 LOA D I N D E X W I L L G I V E YO U A 2 5 - 4 0 % I N C R E AS E I N CA R RY I N G CA PAC I T Y A N D G I V E YO U R E A L B A N G F O R B U C K . T H I S O N E I S 1 2 1 = 1 , 4 5 0 KG .

Most road travellers I observe are couples.

Just two humans. Two humans really don’t need a lot of space or stuff. I see perfectly comfortable conveyances travelling around the country and weighing in between 2-2.5T that have a compact footprint (which means they’ll go places beyond a caravan park) and truly offer the lifestyle nomads crave without the baggage and cost.

At that weight, it is conceivable that your stock-standard 4WD will be able to tow reliably and predictably and put a smile on your face instead of one of constant angst.

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EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution) to help the cause and may be hooked up to a caravan with its own brake electronics, but the reality is that with a combination mass of likely 6T, it’s going to take you ages to stop that lot at just about any speed (especially when your ute has stupid drum brakes in the back). What’s the most frustrating? When some tool in a hatchback jumps into the gap you’ve left ahead of you at an approach to a set of lights and you stand on the anchors and pray. Because you’ve now moved his rear numberplate and pinned it to the back of his head, and you’re in the wrong. Go figure?

D R U M B R A K E S . R E A L LY. I N 2 0 2 4 T H I S I S T H E B E S T W E CA N D O ?

In my private touring time and in my professional career, I’ve lugged just about every trailer/caravan combination you could think of. I can tell you that every time the lump hanging off the back has exceeded 3T, there’s been drama.

Overtaking is a classic. You’re belting along the highway when you come across a slower vehicle, and you’ve been biding your time until a break in traffic emerges. Indicators on, you increase the acceleration (except you’re a law-abiding citizen and you can’t bring yourself to exceed the speed limit) to get past, and low-and-behold, you run out of room, a vehicle is approaching, and you’ve got nowhere to go.

Have you ever tried stopping one of these things? Your tow tug likely has the latest and greatest ABS (Anti-Lock Braking) system going with BA (Brake Assist) and

I could go on, but I’m running out of space.

Sure, go out and buy yourself a van or a camper, but make it something modest because you don’t need everything and the kitchen sink. Having a bigger space encourages you to add more and more junk that you won’t ever need.

If you must live in denial, you’ll get away with a stock-standard 4WD and get to a lot of places, but changing the suspension to one with a modest lift and a spring-set ample to carry your now reasonable payload will reward you with a comfy ride and some clearance to go exploring. Change the tyres too for ones with a decent carcass in lighttruck construction and with a minimum 120 load index, and you won’t cop any flats.

Those two things will make the biggest improvements and are the best investments, but a GVM upgrade??? No thanks, not buying it, nor a heavy tandem axle caravan.

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TOWING

ESSENTIALS A COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE B y G R A N T & L I N DA H A N A N

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When there’s a variety of vehicles available on the market, regular contributors Grant and Linda share their tips for setting up a tow vehicle.

T YPES OF VE H IC LES If we turn back the clock to the days of horse-drawn carts, it’s fair to say there’s been an affinity to tow a trailer of sorts ever since then. And with constant technological progression and improvements, the vehicle sector continues to grow, giving consumers more choice. As to deciding which vehicle to select these days, it isn’t always easy when you can choose anywhere between a rear-wheel-drive sedan and an SUV, through to a popular 4WD or an imported American pickup.

HOW DO YOU C HOOS E? As simple as it sounds, whichever vehicle you choose needs to be fit for purpose. So consider how it will be used before making any purchase. Plus, you should also factor in its running costs and whether it’s sized correctly for whatever type of trailer you plan to tow.

But if you’re in the market for both a vehicle and a camper trailer or caravan, which

should you buy first? Your answer to this question really determines which one is your highest priority. All vehicles come with limitations as to how much they can tow and what ball weight they can carry. If this is an area that’s not clear to you, we suggest getting some professional advice before doing anything. The last thing you want is to outlay big bucks buying a vehicle and find it’s not suitable to tow your trailer.

Whether you end up choosing one of the popular dual cabs or perhaps the more traditional wagon style, they all make excellent choices for setting up the perfect rig for the RV lifestyle. The two key prerequisites most people consider when purchasing a vehicle specifically for journeying around the country are towing capacity and ability and fuel economy.

We’re fairly fortunate here in Australia that we have all the major brands and models available, and we have done so for many years. Many of the overseas manufacturers have also now designed and built engine transmission combinations to suit Australian conditions. To help tick some boxes when you’re considering getting a new vehicle, look for something that has a generous towing capacity and a turbo diesel engine.

There are many brands to choose from, but you want to look for a vehicle that has a large amount of low-down torque for towing.

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R E F E R TO T H E M A N U FAC T U R E R ’ S S P E C S F O R TOW CA PAC I T Y D E TA I L S

A N A N D E R S O N P LU G , 7- P I N P LU G A N D R E V E R S E CA M E R A E L E C T R I C S

WHAT E VE RY TOWI NG VE H IC LE M U ST HAVE When you decide to buy a vehicle that can tow a trailer of sorts, you need to begin adding components so that it legally complies with the road rules. Let’s look at these more closely.

Tow Bar When a towbar is bought from the vehicle manufacturer, you’re guaranteed it's been fully designed and tested. It will also come with a full warranty if it’s fitted and supplied by them as well. You’ll also find that many vehicle manufacturers offer more than one type of tow bar. These all have different capabilities, so you need to match the one you select to your towing requirements.

An alternative is to choose a tow bar from a reputable aftermarket manufacturer. If you end up going down the aftermarket line, check that the full vehicle warranty continues to apply.

Mirrors In most cases, the width of what you tow will be wider than your side wing mirror’s vision.

The road rules stipulate that you must be able to see down the side of your trailer to the rear of both sides. This means that you need to extend, add, or replace your mirrors when towing. But when you’re not towing, it’s also illegal to have mirrors that are too wide for the vehicle, so remember to adjust them or take them off.

Electrics Lighting on the rear of your vehicle for brakes, illumination, and indicators must also function on your trailer. Side lights on trailers are also required over certain lengths. Various types of plugs and cables can be used at the rear of your vehicle to connect to the trailer, so check which configuration you have fitted, as wiring connectors can differ.

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SETTING UP A BRAKE C O N T R O L L E R F O R TOW I N G

It’s important to match the vehicle specs to the towing task. Some vehicle manufacturers have more than one towing capacity rating, subject to the ball weight being transferred to the vehicle. Check your owner’s handbook carefully or get advice from the dealership.

Brake Controllers Any trailer configuration weighing over 750kg GTM (Gross Trailer Mass) requires trailer brakes to be fitted. Many RV manufacturers opt for electric brakes, so your tow vehicle will need an electric brake controller fitted too. There are various controller designs and types on the market that work in different ways, so get advice from a specialist if you’re unsure what’s best for your setup.

AN EX AMPLE OF AFTERMARKET TOW I N G S TA B I L I S E R B A R S S E T U P

It’s also important to have some sort of visual indicator connected next to the vehicle’s driver position that displays that the system is connected and working. Aside from this, some states stipulate that an antirunaway brake system must also be fitted between your vehicle and trailer in tow.

This is just one example of how rules and regulations can differ between states.

S E LECTI NG E N HANC E M E NTS Although not mandatory, here’s a range of enhancements that can be fitted to your vehicle to make your towing experience a bit more enjoyable.

• Anderson plugs are capable of joining correctly sized cables together, so higher amperage can be connected without loss of amps and volts.

A R E V E R S I N G CA M E R A M A K E S R E V E R S I N G M A N O E U V R E S E AS I E R

• A weight distribution hitch assists in levelling the vehicle and RV in tow.

• A reversing camera is a good enhancement, as it allows you to see exactly what’s behind you.

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will give you better load-carrying capacity and can handle a variety of road surfaces.

TH E WORLD OF ACC ESSOR I ES

T Y R E S I D E WA L L S D I S P L AY T H E T Y R E T Y P E , “ LT ” ( L I G H T T R U C K )

I M PROVI NG R I DE AN D HAN DLI NG We’re fortunate that the aftermarket industry has a selection of suspensions, wheels, and tyres for consumers. When you purchase a new vehicle, it’s delivered at its optimum “fit for purpose." Although this works for towing, you may choose to move up the scale and bias your vehicle towards the towing end. This includes changing your suspension rise or adding some air bags for assistance. An all-terrain light truck (LT) tyre

The choice here is pretty much endless. It really boils down to your budget and a need-versuswant scenario. But remember, anything you add to your vehicle needs to be considered in the GVM calculations, as it all adds up very quickly. In addition, your vehicle works harder and uses more fuel the heavier it is. Let’s look at some of the more popular accessories.

UHF Radio This is a great device for simply communicating with others and perhaps expressing your intentions to overtake. If you add in a handheld unit as well, it makes reversing manoeuvres easier when you’ve got an outside spotter guiding you in.

A U H F I S O N E O F T H E B AS I C AC C E S S O R I E S TO I N S TA L L , W H E T H E R I T ’ S I N S TA L L E D I N THE VEHICLE OR HANDHELD

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Satellite Navigation These days, there are many types available on the market and a range of maps to accompany them. Some of them are better than others, so do some research to see which one will suit you. But take it from us: Google Maps is fine if you’re sticking to the blacktop around towns, etc., but steer well clear of it if you’re looking to travel remotely!

Dual Batteries and Controllers For travelling to more remote areas, you can’t go past a dedicated battery system to power and charge phones, cameras, laptops, and portable fridges without any risk to a starter battery. These days, portable battery packs are becoming increasingly popular and something worth investigating.

They come equipped with a range of inlets and outlets for charging, and simply need a connection to the starter battery while recharging it on the road.

Portable Fridge Most people don’t camp without a fridge of some sort these days, and this is another

F I N D YO U R N E X T D E S T I N AT I O N E AS I LY

BY H AV I N G A SAT N AV I N S TA L L E D

area where there’s plenty of choice depending on your budget. A small 12v compressor fridge located somewhere in your vehicle can be a simple vehicle addition and lets you have cold food and drinks wherever you go.

Seat Covers Some might say these are a thing of the past, but we feel they can provide good seat protection and improve travel comfort.

You just need to make sure they’ve been installed correctly on the later model vehicles in particular, as some have inbuilt seat airbags, so they need to comply.

THE OPTIONS ARE PLENTIFUL FOR D E C K I N G O U T WAG O N S A N D U T E S

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T H E R E ’ S A S O LU T I O N F O R M O S T T H I N G S W H E N I T C O M E S TO R O O F R AC KS

Cargo Barrier It’s not uncommon for owners of wagonstyle vehicles to add cargo barriers to their vehicles. If you decide to go down this path, make sure to install a strong, purpose-built barrier that’s been designed specifically for that vehicle to avoid objects in your vehicle turning into potential missiles.

G E N U I N E VS AFTE RMARKET ACC ESSOR I ES The immediate benefit of a genuine accessory from the dealer over an aftermarket one can be the warranty.

Accessories fitted at the point of sale should come with the same warranty as the vehicle, including an extended warranty (if you’ve purchased it). The other main factor is that genuine accessories are designed and tested to work specifically for the vehicle and not interfere with any other components. An example of this is when fitting an aftermarket bull bar, ensuring that the safety restraint system (airbags) isn’t compromised in any way.

It pays to shop around and get a feel for pricing. This will put you in the best negotiating position possible. There are also scenarios like the collaboration between

ARB and Ford. They’ve got together to offer customers products that meet all the warranty requirements that all get installed before your first drive. It’s also possible that everything you purchase can be financed as one package.

S PEC IAL PU RPOS E ACC ESSOR I ES In many cases, most of us would use our vehicles for other activities other than just towing. Adding other accessories, such as roof racks, bike racks, and canoe holders, allows us to take adventure items with us when travelling. Plus, popular items such as a bull bar allow us to mount driving lights, aerials, and winches for when we choose to do some off-beaten-track style exploring.

Other than these, there are drawer systems or ute canopies to keep things organised and accessible in your vehicle.

SU M M I NG U P Selecting the right vehicle for towing and then setting it up isn’t a cheap exercise, so naturally you want to get it right. Do plenty of research upfront and take time to learn what your requirements really are so that you can spend your money wisely.

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RED DUST PHOTO ESSAY I M AG ES BY L I A M T H O M S O N

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Broome-based photographer Liam Thomson has developed a deep-rooted affinity for the raw beauty of Australia's North West.

JA M E S P R I C E P O I N T

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pecialising in landscape photography, Liam is particularly drawn to the dramatic red hues of the Kimberley and the Pilbara, describing it as “an on-going love affair with the red dirt of the North West.”

Believing that the true essence of the area is best captured from above, Liam uses a drone to photograph the region’s

mesmerising landscapes, then carefully post-processes the images to achieve a cinematic yet authentic look.

“I want to respect the beauty of what's originally presented in front of me but also bring out the best in the image,” he said.

Armed with a Sony A7RV and a versatile range of lenses, Liam captures everything

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from the finest details of portraiture and streetscapes to the sweeping majesty of the night sky.

To fully immerse himself in the region's wild terrain, Liam has equipped his Ford Ranger with off-road essentials and has plans to venture further into the outback for new photographic opportunities soon.

“The real test will be in a couple of years when I tackle the Gibb through to Kununurra, up to Kalumburu and Honeymoon Bay and across the Territory to Cairns,” he said of his upcoming adventures. “I'm sure there will be a fair whack of off-roading in that journey.”

EXMOUTH GULF

H A N C O C K G O R G E , K A R I J I N I N AT I O N A L PA R K

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PA N N AWO N I CA M O O N

I WA N T TO R ES P E CT T H E B E AU T Y O F W H AT ' S O R I G I N A L LY P R ES E N T E D I N FR O N T O F M E B U T A LS O B R I N G O U T T H E B ES T I N T H E I M AG E

CA B L E B E AC H , B R O O M E

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PA N N AWO N I CA S TO R M

PA N N AWO N I CA S TO R M

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His photo collection spans from wild coastlines and stunning marine life to the tranquil passage of camels through the desert, serene gorges, and intense dust storms.

The images reflect Liam’s passion for portraying the raw beauty of the North West and invite viewers to embark on their own visual exploration of the region.

HANCOCK GORGE, K A R I J I N I N AT I O N A L PA R K

PA N N AWO N I CA D U S T S TO R M S PA P O O L , H A M E R S L E Y G O R G E , K A R I J I N I N AT I O N A L PA R K

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PEDAL TO THE METAL WA’S TRAILBLAZING GOLD RUSH CYCLISTS B y LU K E C L AT WO R T H Y While the image of gold rush-era Western Australia is dominated by hardy prospectors and their packhorses, a less-known story unfolds of two-wheeled adventurers who conquered the vast, unforgiving landscape. These trailblazing cyclists defied the odds, delivering vital messages, exploring uncharted territories, and embodying the spirit of the gold rush in a truly unique way.

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ransportation to and in the Goldfields of Western Australia in the 1890s was varied and depended on what your current economic standing was at the time. Many of the early prospectors that flocked to the first gold finds in and around Coolgardie relied on 'Shanks Pony', meaning that they trusted their lives on their ability to walk hundreds of kilometres carrying their tools and supplies as they chased the elusive dream of striking it rich.

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Some were fortunate to construct, usually with local materials, wheelbarrows to help them cart their belongings as they sought the precious yellow metal. The explosion of people that flooded into the state meant that horses were more difficult to procure.

Those with more substantive means were able to purchase riding and pack horses to help them traverse the vast distances early prospectors had to cover to reach the everincreasing gold finds being reported daily.

Camels were quickly imported as they were found to be able to better handle and adapt to the harsh conditions as they required less water, could eat most locally based flora (as well as other dainty morsels such as tinned meat!), and could carry far heavier loads than packhorses. However, camels were notoriously difficult to master and could become easily bogged when the occasional heavy rains made the red soil like glue.

One form of early transport that was not widely reported during these momentous times was the bicycle. Like walking, riding bikes took much determination, stamina, and strength. Riding a bike also allowed you to cover greater distances than walking and using camels and allowed you to travel lighter unless you were required to cart large loads. Best of all, although reasonably expensive to purchase, they were more widely available than the other main forms of transport. Bikes also had the added advantage of not needing to be fed or watered, which is particularly important in the arid interior. It was quickly realised that a cyclist used less water per mile than a prospector traversing the Goldfields on foot, and much less than horses or camels.

Some prospectors chose to use a trusty bike when travelling from reported gold find to

gold find. The main use of the bicycle in the early days of the Eastern Goldfields gold rushes was to deliver messages. Bicycles were quickly put into service to deliver urgent mail and relay important messages to the nearest post and telegraph office.

Often, this required a one-way ride for the specialist cyclists of over two hundred kilometres. These tough, wiry riders travelled extremely light in order to save weight. This meant that they carried maybe one blanket, a water bag, a small tool kit with puncture repair kits, some flour to make Johnny Cakes to eat, tea, and sugar, and possibly a tin or two of meat commonly and humorously referred to as 'tinned dog'.

Sometimes they would rely on the hospitality of a prospector or mining camp to offer them sustenance and a place to sleep when on overnight trips.

It seems incredulous today that bicycles were the speediest and often the most reliable forms of transport during these exciting times. Owning a bicycle was not cheap; the most popular roadster bicycles ranged in price from 25 to 35 pounds (equating to approximately $3,000 today) and usually weighed under 11.8 kilograms and had pedal brakes (if they were used).

From 1900, bicycles were available on the Goldfields for 5 pounds (about $500 today), but by this stage, bicycle messengers had all but ceased to operate. I like to think that these special messengers were the forerunners of today’s 4WD enthusiasts; they loved their machines, kept them meticulously maintained, were always on the lookout for quality accessories or upgrades to make them more effective, and loved riding through the most rugged and isolated terrain possible. Sound familiar?

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In 1894, the Coolgardie Cycle Express Company was formed to deliver important mail and messages to the nearest post and telegraph office. At that time, this was Coolgardie. Due to the rapid population influx and new gold finds being reported regularly, it took some time for government postal services to catch up and service the many new mining towns that sprang to life between 1892 and 1910. It was vital to prospectors, mining speculators, and potential buyers of mining properties that information regarding any new gold lease was relayed as quickly as possible.

The Coolgardie Cycle Express Company provided this service. Special messages were conveyed at a charge of up to £25 each, with less important telegrams and letters being carried at various lower charges.

For these letters and smaller parcels, the company’s Coolgardie Agent, Mr. James A. Healey, engaged the Coolgardie Miner to print special stamps. The first stamps used by the company were plain bluecoloured rectangles, with a white space in the centre showing a bicycle, the value in figures (2/6 and 1/-) appearing below, and the inscription 'Coolgardie Cycle Express Company — Cycle Messages' surrounding the design. The stamps were cancelled with a steel stamp (with violet ink) showing 'Per. Coolgardie Cycle Express Co., Hunt Street'.

Should a letter or small parcel be required to travel beyond Coolgardie, normal postage stamps were added. As this service flourished, a new supply of stamps was designed and printed. The new stamps consisted of three values: 6d., 2/-, and 5/.

These were lithographed in two colours, with the centre showing a camel and rider travelling across the desert with the setting sun in the distance. They were inscribed 'Coolgardie Cycle Express Company, Western Australia.' The value appeared in figures in each corner and was repeated in words

COOLGARDIE CYCLE EXPRESS COMPANY ADVERTISEMENT CARD

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at the foot of the stamp. These stamps are now extremely rare and quite valuable.

The company was initially funded by the issuing of one hundred and twentyfive shares at £2 each. This enabled it to hire some of the finest cyclists from Victoria. These riders were referred to as 'Special Cyclists' and included well-known cyclists W.H. Hamblin, J.H.C. Bamlett, F.W. Brookman, F.W. Wilson, and H. Yeates.

The riders could also deliver wages, peg claims, place mining notices on claims, and undertake other forms of mining business. The cyclists rode daily to Hannans (Kalgoorlie) and, when required, to Menzies, Niagara, Yerilla, Pindinni, Mount Margaret, Darlot, Norseman and Dundas.

Walter Hamblin gained fame for taking the first mail from Coolgardie to Darlot, a distance of 320 kilometres, and riding from Coolgardie to Cue, which he completed in seven days. It would be interesting to trace some of these journeys today and follow in their footsteps as a unique 4WD trip.

Besides battling harsh weather conditions, rugged terrain, and riding over barely discernible tracks, the Special Cyclists also had to contend with other life-threatening situations.

Joe Bamlett, in 1894, was carrying a bag of special mail from Coolgardie to Dundas, just south of Norseman. As he approached Forty Mile Rocks, Bamlett suddenly heard a strange noise coming from behind him.

He stopped to see what the noise was

and was horrified to see a pack of dingoes fast approaching. Stung into action, he jumped back on his bike and began to pedal furiously. Bamlett reported that it was fortunate that the bike track was relatively smooth at this point, enabling him to just keep out of reach of the vicious animals.

Pedalling for several kilometres, he reached the shore of Lake Cowan. As no rain had fallen in this area for several months, the lake surface was dry and hard, enabling him to put further distance between himself and the pack of dingoes. One by one, the pursuing dingoes dropped out of the chase, and by sunset, they had been left far behind.

Bamlett completed the final 32 kilometres of his journey by moonlight. Thankfully, he was such a powerful rider and extremely fit; it does not bear thinking about what might have happened if he had taken a tumble or sustained a puncture. He reported that he had never been so glad to reach an overnight stopping place where he could sleep and recover from this ordeal.

A trip made by Hamblin and two other cyclists to try and find the infamous Mount Black gold rush was also well known throughout the Goldfields. Mount Black was allegedly four hundred kilometres north-east of Coolgardie. The closest point of civilisation was Darlot, where it was reported that rich alluvial gold had been found. However, no one knew who found the alleged gold or where the supposed rush was situated. Hundreds of prospectors flocked into the area, all endeavouring to

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find the location of Mount Black. Hamblin and the other two riders had been hired to try and find the location and report back regarding its validity.

Four o’clock passed, and they had still not reached their destination. Luckily, they soon came across a heavily bogged wagon of machinery that had been abandoned. After furiously Hamblin, with Underwood searching the wagon, they and Grant, set out from found a partially filled water Coolgardie in late December bag. Quenching their thirst, and cycled approximately 96 Hamblin prepared to ride kilometres camping at Cattle back with the remaining water Swamp. Provisions consisted to Grant when some passing of flour for damper, tinned W ( WA L LY ) H A M B L I N , prospectors on camels hove meat, some sugar, tea, and C O O LG A R D I E into sight. The men agreed to water. This was limited to S P E C I A L CYC L I S T take the water to Grant, and what they could carry on the Hamblin and Underwood decided to stay put frames of their bike and their backs. The and wait for Grant to catch up. After resting next morning, the two most experienced for a period and getting suspicious that cyclists, Hamblin and Underwood, decided to Grant had not arrived, the two cyclists rode ride next to Mount Margaret, where further back to where they had left Grant. provisions could be obtained. A gnamma Here they found him extremely ill, having hole was located 40 kilometres from Cattle been so overcome with thirst that he Swamp, where they thought they could fill had drunk some of the oil from his bike their already depleted water bags. lamp, causing him to be violently sick. The It sounded good in theory, but they had prospectors on camels had not gone to no way of knowing that before they had Grant with the water. set out from Coolgardie, 170 tonnes of Underwood remained behind and tried to mining machinery had been transported care for Grant while Hamblin again pointed over the very track they were about to his bicycle north to pedal to Donkey Rocks traverse, and as a result, the track was and water. Fortunately, Hamblin came virtually impassable. They were quick to across a lone prospector who had a supply discover that some stretches of the badly of water and gave some to him to take back damaged track only allowed them to travel to Grant. The water helped revive Grant one kilometre every 20 minutes of brutal enough to enable him to ride onto Donkey pedalling. In addition, the temperature Rocks. However, on arrival, Grant was close along the track had reached 43°C by noon, to unconsciousness and was obviously too with all three riders out of water. Grant, the sick to continue. A passing teamster agreed least experienced rider of the trio, quickly to transport Grant back to Goongarrie, succumbed, and Hamblin and Underwood where he could receive some more expert were forced to leave him in the shade by care and, in turn, be relayed to Coolgardie. the track to rest while they pressed ahead to try and reach water and bring back a supply for him.

The next morning, the remaining two riders left Donkey Rocks with a gallon of water

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and some raw potatoes. Further problems arose because of the extreme heat with Underwood’s rear tyre tube splitting, and the two men had extreme difficulty properly fixing it. They finally reached Pindinni, where they were able to purchase some more water and some food. Another hard pedal of fifty kilometres saw them reach Mount Margaret. Here they again rested, repaired their bicycles, restocked on food and water, and left the final man-made track to head off in the direction of the supposed Mount Black gold rush.

After not seeing any sign of human life for over two days, the men returned to Mount Margaret and then back to Coolgardie.

They had been on the go for three weeks.

This journey was a marvel in human endurance, especially as it was done in the heat of summer. They travelled via the old Coolgardie to Ninety Mile (Goongarrie Track) via Cattle Swamp and then to the east of Broad Arrow (Along Yarri Road) to Donkey Rocks and via the now Kookynie-Yarri Road to Yerilla. From here, they probably travelled through Yundamindera Station, skirting the edge of Lake Carey, to Mount Margaret.

From here, they would travel through Nambi Station to the east of The Terraces and then east of Lake Darlot to the supposed Mount Black, and then return the same route. All three men survived this ordeal to continue as Special Cyclists. As for the mythical Mount Black, it was soon realised to be a hoax.

One of the best-known endurance bike rides was made by Goldfields’ identity Billy Snell, who left Menzies in 1897 and arrived in Melbourne 17 days later. He was not trying to set a record for distances travelled but was looking for potential pastoral country.

This journey was the first reported one between the Eastern Goldfields and the Eastern Colonies made solo on a bicycle.

The Coolgardie Cycle Express Company folded in December 1896 after facing competition from the expansion of the telegraph and being threatened with legal action by government postal services as they were issuing their own stamps that were eventually deemed illegal. Some riders continued to deliver parcels or messages, but the stamps were not permitted. Others returned to their homes in other states, while others rode in some of the largest and richest cycle competitions organised anywhere in the world in Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie, including the famous Westral Wheel Race.

Bicycles remained in common use in the outback for decades after the first motor vehicles arrived. Up until the 1930s, distances of 200 kilometres in a day were not uncommon for fit travellers and workers, including prospectors, rabbitproof fence and Goldfields Water Supply Pipeline inspectors and kangaroo shooters.

Some ministers also visited isolated church members on two wheels in the Goldfields and across the Wheatbelt. It has been estimated that some bicycles have travelled an amazing total of one hundred and sixty thousand kilometres!

Even up until the 1960s, some traces of the bicycle tracks could still be found. This included the remains of culverts and small bridges built on the bicycle track linking Menzies with Mount Ida to the north-west.

As mentioned previously, a small amount of research would allow any 4WD enthusiast to retrace some of the overland journeys these intrepid cyclists made in the Eastern Goldfields and Murchison. Reliving some of the momentous achievements made and learning more about our wonderful golden past would make a highly enjoyable and challenging 4WD trip. Research anyone?

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SQUATTER

CAMP KITCHEN B y JA N E & M I C H A E L P E LU S E Y Over the many years we have been car camping in the 4WD, my kitchen equipment has always been a series of plastic boxes that we would pack and unpack every night on the trip. With our new rig, we decided to get something more functional, and after much googling, we came across Top Gear Campgear.

T

op Gear Campgear is the brainchild of Jim Crawford, who gained his passion for camp cooking working as a camp cook in 1973. As Jim moved to driving trucks of all kinds, he found cooking for himself on the road was far cheaper and healthier.

He started building his own camp kitchen.

Initially, he used his tucker box from an ex-army grenade case, then he built a prototype from plywood and then steel. The current incarnation is made of aluminium. I am very grateful that Jim also left no stone unturned in eliminating those rough road rattles.

There are three camp kitchens in the Top Gear range: the Squatter, Overlander and Longhaul. Each unit has similar compartments but has different sizes depending on your needs.

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We chose the Squatter Camp Kitchen because it is smaller in height and is specifically made for the collapsible accessories. We already had the collapsible cookware and plates, so that worked for us.

The Overlander and the Longhaul are taller kits.

All Top Gear Campgear Camp Kitchens can be installed in your 4WD on sliders, just like the car fridge. Jim wanted the camp kitchen to be movable, so it takes just four bolts to attach it to the car and the same four bolts to undo and move. It also means you can transfer it to your new rig. It is also dustand water-resistant, with rubber sealing along the top and front doors.

O UTS I D E The Squatter is the smallest of the three camp kitchens, measuring 400mm high, 650mm wide, and 520mm deep. It weighs 30kg empty and is powder-coated aluminium. Black is the standard colour, but I couldn’t resist the red one. There is a sturdy handle on each side, making it easy

enough to move despite its weight. Our kitchen isn’t on a slider, so we lift it out of the vehicle onto a Wanderer Camp Kitchen.

TO P CO M PA RTM E NT The solid lid unclips, and the hydraulic struts lift to reveal a carpet-covered pantry. From left to right, we have an area for food like cans, jars and non-perishable food. At the back is an area for tall bottles like olive oil and tomato sauce. There is a handy, narrow compartment that is perfect for salt and pepper, herbs and spices. And finally, to the right are eight plastic storage containers for dry goods. We put rice, pasta, coffee and tea in these containers.

Everything fits snuggly, so nothing moves while driving, even on the roughest 4WD tracks. That makes a change from containers tipping over in a plastic box and making a huge mess. My memory of raw eggs and curry powder still gives me nightmares.

The front panel also unhinges to reveal drawers, storage areas and a large wooden chopping board.

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D R AWE RS The Squatter has two drawers. The drawer on the left is designed for cutlery. I found it very easy to access knives and forks from this drawer. It is so much easier than the plastic container with a lid. The right-side drawer holds the collapsible washing-up bowl in the back, and the front compartment stores kitchen tools such as big knives, wooden spoons, tongs and egg turners.

STOV E

Under the drawers is an area that is made for the collapsible pots and plates. We already had collapsible cooking equipment from our hiking expeditions, so it worked for us. In this area, I can fit the collapsible pot, a big salad bowl and colander, two big bowls, two small bowls, and two cups. I also slid four Corelle plates and a platter in there.

On the left of our Camp Kitchen are two clips that reveal a slide-out stainless-steel tray that fits most butane or two-burner gas stoves. We use a butane cooking pan stove.

It is so nice to be able to access everything I need to cook up a storm without having to scramble through boxes. We had the stove slider put on the left side of the kitchen, but the people at Top Gear can put it on either side. Whatever suits your rig.

C UT TI N G BOA R D

LI G HTI N G

The Top Gear-branded bamboo chopping board is the perfect size for all my chopping and preparation needs. I can also slide a couple of plastic chopping mats underneath.

The board comes out to be washed.

Once the lid is open, it can restrict the lights from other sources. A light can be mounted on the inside of the Camp Kitchen lid. The Longhaul comes with LED lighting on the inside and out.

Collapsible pots and plates

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OTH E R O PTI O N S As the Squatter is the smallest camp kitchen in the range, it has two bigger relatives. The Overlander and Longhaul include a wash-up dish and chopping board. The Longhaul is the fancy kitchen in the range, with internal and external lights and a built-in bottle opener.

PR I C E Our small kitchen cost $1,450, which is a little on the pricey side. The other upgrade options are more expensive. However, the build quality of the units is second to none, and they are made to meet our individual requirements. For our needs, the Squatter is an excellent fit.

For more information, check out topendcampgear.com.au or phone 1300 119 906. western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

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A ROBUST POWER COMPANION

FOR ANY ADVENTURER

BLUETTI AC60P

B y M I C H A E L (S P I K E ) C O L L I N S Tired of the limitations of traditional power sources?

The Bluetti AC60P might be the perfect solution. This portable power station is designed to keep your essentials running, whether you're camping, boating, or simply need a backup power supply at home.

I

had been looking at a portable power station for some time as an alternative to having a dual-battery system in my old Triton or the camper trailer and to take on board our boat over the summer. I like the idea of portability, and with the new technology of lithium-ion batteries being able to drain down to 5% capacity, these power stations are incredibly light and versatile — certainly compared to my old AGM Kickass Thumper 80 or the Waeco CoolPower 36.

After chatting with David (or Lammy, as he's known) from Bluetti WA at the Caravan Show back in March, he worked out that my needs for a portable power station were simple: I simply needed to power my portable 75-litre fridge, run a few LEDs, and charge my phone. And given that I’m normally away for only two to three nights at a time, the battery would be charged during the day through the vehicle or a solar panel, keeping the drinks and food cold overnight.

He suggested trying the AC60P, which is relatively small, but he assured me it could run my fridge, lights, and charge the phone without any issue for around 16 hours. He rattled off all these technical specifications, which, to be honest, went over my head. I was more impressed with the look and the weight, and I was thinking about where to put it!

Anyway, I brought the Bluetti AC60P home along with a smaller unit, the Bluetti EB3a, which I thought would be perfect for my laptop, camera, etc., when on the road.

So far, this little unit has been amazing for running my MacBook and charging a multitude of devices.

I set the AC60P up in the garage, as I don’t have immediate plans to get out and go camping, to do some rudimentary tests. I love the look of this unit—compact, neat, and very well put together! The app on my iPhone was easy to download and is simple to use. The Bluetti app allows you to manage

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power usage efficiently, turning off the unit when the load is minimal to conserve battery life.

like the AC180 or AC200Max in terms of runtime.

The first test was to plug my portable 75-litre fridge into the fully charged Bluetti AC60P through the 600W pure sinewave inverter to see how long it would run the fridge at 3°C. Well, it ran for almost 24 hours before it stopped. I should mention it was in my garage, the day temperature didn’t get beyond 18°C, the overnight minimum was 8°C, and the lid wasn’t opened and closed regularly as it would be in a camping situation. But 24 hours nonetheless!

• Capacity: 403Wh (22.4V, 18Ah)

The second test was to connect my fridge back to the Bluetti AC60P and the 200W Bluetti solar panel. It was a partly cloudy day with intermittent sunshine; the solar panel only put in between 120W and 180W, which didn’t seem too bad on an overcast day.

The input was enough to keep the battery at 100% while still running the fridge, which was absolutely perfect for me. Obviously, I will need to consider the Bluetti AC60P’s performance in other weather conditions and how much power is being used by my accessories. But at this stage, the Bluetti AC60P portable power station fits the bill perfectly for me.

While it might not have the highest power output in Bluetti’s range, its portability and ruggedness offers unique advantages for those on the go. Another positive is that it can be expanded with up to two Bluetti B80 batteries, each adding 806Wh (watt-hours), making it capable of matching larger units

Some key specifications: • Outputs: 2 x 230V AC outlets (600W total), 1 x USB-C (100W), 2 x USB-A (5V/3A), 1 x 12V DC car outlet (10A), 1 x wireless charging pad (15W) • Inputs: AC (600W), Solar (200W max, 12-28V), Car (12/24V from cigarette lighter port) • Weight: 9.1kg • Dimensions: 29 x 21 x 23cm • Price: $870 • Warranty: 6 years The Bluetti AC60P has UPS (uninterruptible power supply) functionality, which ensures that sensitive devices like CPAP machines will remain powered during power outages.

Verdict I’m sold! The Bluetti AC60P is a nice yet needed piece of equipment for the average boatie, tradie, 4WD adventurer, caravanner, or camper. Its IP65-rated dust and water-resistant design, combined with its expandability and ease of use, make it a versatile power solution for most marine, off-road escapades, and job site applications.

I also like that the team at Bluetti WA are not only a great bunch of guys, but they are located locally in Bibra Lake, and if you experience any issues, they're straight onto it!

S PEC IAL OFFE R FOR WESTE RN 4W DR IVE R RE ADE RS Get $50.00 off when you purchase a Bluetti AC60P direct from Bluetti WA. This discount offer is exclusively for Western 4W Driver readers.

Quote W4WDMAG to get the discount before the offer expires on 30 December 2024.

Simply contact David on 0402 051 67.

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WANDOO WARRIORS TRACK CARE AND OFFROAD MOTORING GROUPS CLEAR THE WAY IN WANDOO NATIONAL PARK

By RALPH KLEM — TOYOTA L A N D C R U I S E R C LU B O F W E S T E R N AU S T R A L I A

I

n the heart of Western Australia's Wandoo National Park, in the crisp winter air and amidst beautiful Eucalyptus Wandoo forest, an inspiring collaboration recently unfolded.

A diverse group of individuals joined forces to ensure the accessibility and preservation of this natural woodland in a collective effort that not only highlighted the power of collaboration but also underscored the beneficial impact of community stewardship in our outdoor spaces.

The initiative saw eight dedicated members from various motoring clubs, under the stewardship of 18 Track Care members, converge upon Wandoo National Park.

There were six members from the Toyota LandCruiser Club, including David Barnard, Jenny and Kim France, Anne Holt, Ralph Klem, and Sandy Mata, accompanied by two enthusiasts from the Subaru Club, Robert Marson and Huw Porter. They were divided

into three groups under the leadership of David Peck, Graham Weber, and David Cowley, respectively. Each team set off in different directions, armed with the tools to tackle previously identified waypoints where the track needed attention to clear fallen trees and trim encroaching growth.

The day's impact extended beyond track maintenance. As the groups prepared for departure, an impromptu educational moment unfolded at a nearby granite outcrop. Graham Weber, known for his

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botanical expertise, enlightened the gathering about the fascinating flora of the region. From carnivorous plants lurking in the shadows to the intricate ecosystems supported by algae, fungi, mosses, and samphire, each detail provided a picture of the forest's ecological tapestry.

This collaboration exemplifies the best of community spirit and environmental stewardship. It is a testament to what can be achieved when diverse groups unite for a common cause — preserving and enhancing our natural landscapes for future generations. Beyond simply clearing tracks, these efforts fostered camaraderie, deepened understanding of local biodiversity, and reinforced the importance of responsible outdoor recreation.

As we look back on this endeavour in Wandoo National Park, let us appreciate the continued dedication of Track Care and these volunteers. Their commitment not only ensures accessibility for all but also sets a shining example of how collective action can make a profound difference. Whether you're an offroad enthusiast, a nature lover, or simply someone who values the beauty of our wilderness, the impact of such collaborations resonates deeply.

You too can support Track Care to expand this winning trail maintenance model across Western Australia. By becoming a member ($90/$80 seniors), individuals can contribute to this vital work, even without direct

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fieldwork involvement. Membership funds essential equipment and safety gear while providing members with updates on Track Care's statewide smorgasbord of activities.

Track Care activities are expanding at a huge rate. All sorts of interesting requests for Track Care assistance are coming in to them weekly, and they are on the lookout for leaders of tasks for their '4WDing with a Purpose'.

Looking ahead, this collaboration with Track Care should inspire other 4W drivers to join in safeguarding our natural treasures.

Together, we can continue to enjoy and protect Wandoo National Park and other precious landscapes that define our shared heritage.

Part of our club's overarching philosophy is to 'create good fellowship with other 4WD users and encourage a positive attitude towards environmental conservation'.

Through such unity and action, we pave the way for a sustainable future where the balance between human activity and nature is preserved.

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If you own a 4Wdrive vehicle of any type, you’re welcome to join us. It’s where ‘experience and adventure meet’

www.tlccwa.org.au

4WD TAG-ALONG TOURS ACROSS WA

Join us on a 4WD tag-along adventure tour, taking in the raw beauty of WA’s landscape and history.

The secret to enjoying any of our trips is to relax and just take it all in your stride.

Our overall goal is to make sure that you see things that otherwise you might not, go places that otherwise you might not visit, and meet some new friends.

If you are new to four-wheel driving in the outback then don’t worry, we aren’t.

We are here to assist you.

It doesn’t have to be extreme to be EPIC Check out our website for upcoming trips

www.epic4wdtours.com.au

Contact us on 0456 684 532 adventure@epic4wdtours.com.au

CAMP HOSTING IN NATIONAL PARKS HELPING OTHERS TO ENJOY THE CAMPING LIFESTYLE

By COLIN & PRUE KERR

I

Camping has become a popular escape for Australians seeking relaxation and adventure. With the surge in national park visitors, a unique opportunity has emerged: camp hosting. This volunteer role not only supports park management but also offers individuals a chance to immerse themselves in nature while giving back to the community.

CA M P E R S I N T H E K E N N E DY R A N G E N AT I O N A L PA R K , WA

t probably comes as no surprise to our readers that a recent survey has found people who go on camping holidays are happier, more satisfied, optimistic, and energised than those who don’t! Campers also say it makes them more productive and healthier, and in addition, they are less stressed, frustrated, bored or lonely.

When talking statistics, in the past two years, just over seven million Australians have gone on a camping holiday. And with so many wonderful national parks scattered across the country, it is not surprising that a large number of these campers are enjoying the beauty and experiences that these parks have to offer.

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The popularity of national park camping started many years ago, but as this groundswell has continued, national park rangers, who have a quite broad range of responsibilities, started to find that they were spending a disproportionate amount of their time involved with park visitors and campers.

From these pressures grew the concept of enlisting the help of camp hosts in our most popular and well-used parks to significantly reduce the rangers’ campground management workloads, allowing them more time for their more pressing duties, including fire management, feral animals, pest and weed control, fences, signage, rehabilitation, general maintenance and heaps more. They also benefit from knowing that visitors to the area are in the good hands of camp hosts.

Amongst the many jobs around the campsites taken over by this new network of volunteer camp hosts are to welcome visitors, collect fees (where online bookings don’t apply), provide information to visitors, manage campsite allocations, look after campground facilities (including toilets, barbeques, bins, etc.), and generally help

visitors enjoy the camping experience in their park. In some cases, other duties might include assisting with wildlife surveys, bird identification surveys, sign and furniture painting, mowing, tree planting, walking track patrols and more.

If volunteers have particular skills (such as carpentry, welding, etc.) that would be helpful around the park, rangers are generally happy to encourage their assistance. Camp hosts, however, find they still have plenty of spare time to themselves most days to follow their own interests, such as reading, craft, bush walking, and, of course, regular campsite ‘happy hours’ are a real fun and social part of their involvement. In helping visitors enjoy their stay, camp hosts have even been involved in taking families hiking or fishing, guiding local wildflower walks, and directing visitors to some of the best spots for landscape photography.

Usually chosen for their love of the bush and outdoor life, their friendly and helpful nature, and their ability to get along well with people, camp hosts usually base themselves in a park for a minimum of one month, sometimes up to three or four

CA M P H O S T C O R RY H E E S T E R S , C L E A N I N G T H E B A R B E Q U E S AT M I L L S T R E A M C H I C H E S T E R N AT I O N A L PA R K , WA

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CA M P H O S T G L E N DA L E E (S TA N D I N G ), W I T H CA M P E R S AT H A P PY H O U R I N T H E K E N N E DY R A N G E N AT I O N A L PA R K , WA

national park in their state. For emergency purposes, camp hosts are provided with radio communication with rangers or other base stations 24 hours a day and have been known to be involved in emergency situations such as rendering basic first aid, rescuing bogged vehicles, and even helping to search for missing tourists.

H A P PY CA M P E R S AT CA P E R A N G E N AT I O N A L PA R K

months at a time. They are not paid for their services but are able to camp free of charge, which often suits people who are retired and have limited budgets. They usually have their own camping gear, a camper trailer, campervan, motorhome, caravan, or tent to set up on site, and plenty of spare time on their hands.

Some younger folk whose circumstances allow, also become involved, and in several locations, on-site accommodation is also provided. In some parks, the volunteers are supplied with gas bottles, fridges, drinking water, showers, generators, fuel, and perhaps even annual passes to visit any

Procedures vary from state to state, but usually after nominating and being accepted to be a camp host (including working with children, etc.), the volunteers are brought together, issued with uniforms or badges, and participate in seminars or training on all aspects of their campground duties. This training will also usually involve first aid competence, fire awareness, bush survival skills, people management, Aboriginal cultural protocols, information on local animals, plants, wildflowers and much more.

Camp hosts, who must be in good health and have a reasonable level of fitness, are also able to nominate their preferred parks or regions in which they would like to work.

Clearly, camp hosting won’t suit everybody, but of those who do get involved, most find it has broadened their knowledge,

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CA M P H O S T P E T E R H E E S T E R S S H OW I N G CA M P E R S H OW TO F I L L E T A FISH — MILLSTREAM- CHICHESTER N AT I O N A L PA R K , WA

education, and understanding of national parks and the environment, has got them out enjoying nature, mixing with a wide range of people, usually with similar outdoor interests, and is overall a rewarding and personally satisfying experience.

Going back a number of years, it was camp hosts Peter and Corry Heester at a campsite in Millstream-Chichester National Park in the WA Pilbara who first made us aware of this park volunteering way of life. Peter and Corry had spent three months camped on the banks of Crossing Pool here in the park, and what a beaut couple they were to be with. Peter, on the day we arrived, was filleting a large catfish caught by one of the young campers, who asked him what to do with it. Meanwhile, Corry was minding a joey nicknamed ‘Kelly Roo’ for the local national park ranger who had found the baby on the side of the road after its mother had been killed by a car. It was all in a day’s work for these wonderful park volunteers, who every day continued to help campers around them thoroughly enjoy their camping holidays.

For more information on how to become a campground host, scan the QR code

GENUINE OUTBACK HOSPITALITY YOU DESERVE IT

Plan a stay at the grand old Queen of the Murchison Guest House and soak in the history of Cue. Admire the preserved buildings, fossick for gold, photograph amazing sunsets.

Owner Joyce Penny has created a fresh and homely environment for travellers and workers.

Address: 53 Austin St, Cue 6640 | T: (08) 9963 1625

E: info@queenofthemurchison.com.au | W: www.queenofthemurchison.com.au

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GUEST HOUSE

DISCOVER KALBARRI

from above

Fly from Kalbarri to the Abrolhos Islands, Monkey Mia, Pink Lake and the River Gorges with your own window seat!

Book your flight today and let the wonder of Kalbarri take your breath away

+61 8 9937 1130

kalbarriscenicflights.com.au Follow us on social media for the latest updates and exclusive offers.

E @KalbarriScenicFlights Q @kalbarriscenicflights M @nationwestaviation

A DV E R TO R I A L

DISCOVER

KALBARRI IN SPRING

A WILDFLOWER KALEIDOSCOPE AND WHALES ON PARADE

K A L B A R R I W I L D F LOW E R S U N S E T

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Nicolai Abano

Spring in Kalbarri is nothing short of magical, offering a symphony of colours and natural wonders that make it one of Western Australia's must-visit destinations. From the breathtaking display of wildflowers to the awe-inspiring sight of migrating whales, Kalbarri in spring is a celebration of nature at its finest.

Let’s explore what makes this coastal gem a perfect spring getaway.

A WI LD FLOWE R WO N D E R L A N D Kalbarri is renowned for its extraordinary wildflower season, which transforms the region into a vibrant tapestry of colours and textures. This year, Kalbarri has had a record amount of rainfall and is currently seeing wildflowers bloom all over the region. 2024 is shaping up to be a wonderful year for the flora and a robust recovery from the previous dry seasons. Peak wildflower season is between August and October, when the landscape bursts into bloom with over 1,200 species of wildflowers, many of which are unique to the area. The famous Kalbarri National Parks, with their rugged gorges and coastal cliffs, provide a stunning backdrop for this floral display.

E V E R L AS T I N G S COPPER CUPS

AC O R N B A N KS I A

C OW S L I P

The sand plains are rewarding places to explore with starflowers, kangaroo paws, feather flowers and orchids, just to name a few. Further east, towards Galena Bridge, carpets of pink and white everlastings create a visual feast. The spectacle is not just about the sheer number of flowers but also the variety — including orchids, grevilleas, banksias and the iconic Kalbarri catspaw, which can only be found in this region.

These wildflowers are not only beautiful but also vital to the local ecosystem, supporting a variety of wildlife and pollinators. western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

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they migrate along the coast. These majestic creatures can often be seen from the coastal cliffs as well as the shoreline, making Kalbarri one of the best land-based whalewatching spots in Australia.

The cliffs at Natural Bridge and Island Rock and the coastal walk from Mushroom Rock to Rainbow Valley offer excellent vantage points for spotting these gentle giants.

Witnessing a whale breach or seeing a mother and calf glide through the water is an unforgettable experience, and spring is the prime time for it. For a closer encounter, consider taking a whale-watching cruise, where you can get up close and personal with these incredible animals.

Z B E N D LO O KO U T WA L K

@a_zzy_favbit

For those keen to explore, the park offers several well-marked walking trails and shorter lookout walks, such as the Nature’s Window, Z-Bend Lookout and the Kalbarri Skywalk. The longer Loop Trail is where you can immerse yourself in this floral wonderland. Kalbarri Wildflower Tours are also available with experienced and local guides, such as D’Guy Charters, with tours that provide insights into the different species and their significance to the environment.

WH A LE WATC H I N G : N ATU R E ’ S G R A N D S PECTAC LE As you marvel at the land’s blooming beauty, don't forget to look out to sea, where another of Kalbarri’s springtime highlights takes place — whale watching.

From July to November, the waters off Kalbarri become a playground for humpback and southern right whales as

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M O R E S PR I N G ADV E NTU R ES Beyond the wildflowers and whales, Kalbarri in spring offers a wealth of activities for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.

The temperate weather makes it an ideal time for outdoor pursuits, whether it's hiking, fishing, or exploring the region’s natural attractions.

K A L B A R R I C OAS TA L C L I F F S , B I G U R DA T R A I L

Kalbarri National Park is both nature’s playground and nature’s art gallery. The inland park is home to dramatic gorges, like the Z-Bend and famous Loop Trail, where you can hike, abseil, or simply enjoy the breathtaking views. Nature’s Window, a natural rock arch that frames the Murchison River below, is one of the most photographed landmarks in Western W H A L E S AT R E D B LU F F @dusty_nomads

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skywalks are accessible to all visitors and provide a unique perspective on Kalbarri’s natural beauty.

The surrounding area is also rich in cultural heritage, with interpretive signage that tells the story of the Nanda people, the traditional owners of the land. The skywalk is a perfect spot to soak in the beauty of Kalbarri in spring, with the wildflowers adding a splash of colour to the rugged terrain.

N AT U R E ' S W I N D OW AT N I G H T

Australia, and spring’s clear skies provide the perfect conditions for capturing its beauty.

TH E K A LBA R R I S K Y WA LK : A N E W PE RS PECTI V E

Kalbarri’s pristine astro-environment and low light pollution make it a prime destination for stargazing. The clear, dark skies offer a spectacular view of the night sky, making a stargazing tour with D’Guy Charters at the Kalbarri Skywalk a must-do experience for visitors wanting to connect deeply with the cosmos.

A N D TH E R E ’ S M O R E . . .

The Hawk’s Head Lookout and Ross Graham Lookout provide panoramic views of the

One of the newest attractions in Kalbarri is the Kalbarri Skywalk (Kaju Yatka — ‘Walk to Sky’), which opened in 2020. Perched on the edge of a 100-metre-high cliff, the twin skywalks extend out over the gorge, offering breathtaking views of the Murchison River below and the vast landscape beyond. The K A L B A R R I S K Y WA L K

Z B E N D LO O KO U T

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natural wonders of these gorges. There is the short River Trail, which takes you down into the gorges and to the river for a closer look. These gorges are a stark contrast to the coastal scenery, offering a different kind of beauty. Formed by the Murchison River cutting through the landscape, these deep, winding gorges are best explored in spring when the temperatures are mild and the wildflowers are in bloom.

TH E U N I Q U E COASTA L C LI FFS Kalbarri's coastline is famed for its dramatic cliffs, which have been sculpted by the Indian Ocean over millions of years. These towering formations, such as Island Rock and Natural Bridge, offer not only spectacular views but also a glimpse into the geological history of the region. The coastal walk from Mushroom Rock to Rainbow Valley is particularly popular in spring, as the wildflowers add a flourish of colour to the rugged landscape.

K A L B A R R I C OAS T

@_bruisemouse_

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R I V E R TO S E A For those who prefer water-based activities, Kalbarri offers some of the best fishing spots in the region. Whether you are casting a line from the shore or venturing out on a boat, the rich marine life ensures a rewarding experience. And for the more adventurous, spring is also a great time for kayaking or canoeing along the Murchison River, where you can paddle through tranquil waters surrounded by stunning scenery.

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There is an array of flight experiences with local experts, Nationwest Aviation powered

by Kalbarri Scenic Flights, that give you a unique and special view of the wonder of

Kalbarri from the air, from the inland to the coastal gorges, as well as flights out to the remarkable Abrolhos Islands and down to the Pink Lake (Hutt Lagoon).

TI M E TO D I N E While nature takes centre stage in Kalbarri, the town itself offers a warm, welcoming atmosphere and many delicious options for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, both dine-in and take-away. Finlay’s Kalbarri has been a must-visit for the past 30 years.

Make sure you call in to enjoy some locally sourced seafood, award-winning craft beer, live music, and a great time that will become a special memory.

PL A N YO U R V I S IT With its abundance of rich and stunning natural beauty and a wealth of tours and activities to enjoy, Kalbarri in spring is a

N AT U R E ' S W I N D OW @_bruisemouse_

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Discover Kalbarri’s Wildflower Wonders & Stargazing Magic!

Immerse yourself in Kalbarri’s natural beauty with our bespoke Wildflower Tour, available during the stunning wildflower season from August to October.

Witness vibrant blooms and rare species in full glory.

Then, let the adventure continue as you gaze upon the stars in our unforgettable Kalbarri Stargazing Tour.

Experience the magic of the night sky, where the Milky Way dazzles above and our expert guides bring the cosmos to life.

Visit our website to explore more about our day tours For enquiries and bookings: +61 497 906 969 bookings@dguycharters.com.au dguycharters.com.au EQM

destination that should be on everyone’s travel list. Whether you are a nature lover, an adventure seeker, or simply looking for a peaceful retreat, Kalbarri offers something for everyone, so plan to stay for a few days. Whether you are here to witness the wildflowers in bloom, spot whales off the coast, or explore the rugged beauty of the national park, one thing is certain — Kalbarri in spring will leave you with memories to cherish for a lifetime.

Kalbarri Tudor Holiday Park is a welcome oasis located just a 4-minute walk to the beach, cafes, restaurants, bakeries and shopping area. They have a range of accommodation options to suit all budgets, from studio units, family villas to lovely shady caravan and camping sites.

To make the most of your trip, be sure to plan ahead by visiting Kalbarri Visitor

Centre’s website at kalbarri.org.au or by giving them a call for personalised advice and recommendations. And when in Kalbarri, stop by and visit the friendly team at their central location, Kalbarri Visitor Centre, for all your accommodation, tour bookings, quality gifts and souvenirs.

So, pack your bags, grab your camera, and get ready to experience spectacular Kalbarri this spring. This is a season of renewal, growth, and beauty — there is no better place to witness it all than in Kalbarri.

Kalbarri Visitor Centre 70 Grey St, Kalbarri (08) 9937 1104 bookings@kalbarri.org.au kalbarri.org.au

KALBARRI TUDOR HOLIDAY PARK

Idyllic location, just 4-minutes walk to the beach, town’s best restaurants/cafes, taverns, bakeries and shopping area. Shady, lush green lawns, swimming pool, campers kitchen, TV Room, BBQs, playgrounds, jumping pillow with friendly atmosphere.

Choose from modern villas, cabins, motel and units, RV, ensuite, powered and unpowered sites.

Book at kalbarritudor.com.au, phone 9937 1077 or email bookings@kalbarritudor.com.au 10 Porter Street, Kalbarri, Western Australia

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Hole

s Rd

Indulge in our craft beers, brewed onsite to capture the spirit of Kalbarri. Whether you’re a craft beer aficionado or a curious newcomer, our refreshing range has something for everyone.

Sample four flavours with a beer paddle or grab a few cans to take home!

Pair your drinks with a meal at our seafood restaurant, where we serve fresh, local catches in a quirky, open-air setting.

Join us for live music every Sunday arvo.

Everyone’s welcome - kids and fur babies too!

A uniquely Australian award-winning outdoor seafood restaurant and brewery

TO NORTH WEST COASTAL HWY

4WD RIVER ACCESS NO CAMPING PERMITTED

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PARKS & WILDLIFE SERVICE HEADQUARTERS

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Kalbarri National Park SKYWALK NATURE’S WINDOW

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WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE Take a walk on the wild side with Rennee Turner, proud Yinggarda Nyarlu woman, and owner and operator of Wooramulla Eco Cultural Journeys in Carnarvon B y T R AC E Y L A I T Y

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or most non-Indigenous readers, the time of year when red dirt and clay pans suddenly erupt into carpets of wildflowers and a hive of activity is known simply, and aptly, as 'spring’.

For the Yinggarda people of the Gascoyne, who observe their own seasonal calendar, the months of August and September comprise a season of transition called 'bidd-idd-jin.'

“We are coming into the season of flowers,” explains Rennee. “We know this because the

winds have started to change and the rain is changing from misty rain to short showers.

We are heading into the season of flowering, of colour, when everything is popping out and showing off. Basically, Mother Nature puts on a real show for us here in the Gascoyne.”

And Rennee, who was born and raised in Gwoonwardu (Carnarvon) and has worked as a consultant for the Gwoonwardu Mia Cultural Centre and as a tour guide in her own right for her own business, alongside

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daughters Marhleigh-J and Hannah-Rose, is just the person to walk us through some of these dramatic and subtle changes in flora and fauna.

Like the 'id-il-bah' (wildflowers) that bring unexpected beauty and delight to visitors travelling through the desert, Rennee’s enthusiasm and appreciation for the natural world, her Country, and her culture also bring joy to those fortunate enough to experience it.

“I want people to feel, see, hear and feel Country,” Rennee says. “To connect.”

“I feel really humbled and proud to be a Traditional Custodian. For me, being physically connected to Country allows me to be spiritually connected. To have both together is my whole identity. My reason for being. As a Traditional Custodian, I have a responsibility to my Country. I have to ensure that everything in that space is taken care of and respected.

“How do you gain respect? Through knowledge, sharing knowledge. You have to be brave enough to share so we can build relationships built on mutual understanding.

I want you to feel that you are in a respected and safe space and walk away with your own personal experience, your own connection to my Country, and to know that you are welcome here.”

M U N G U R R AG U R R A ( TH E B E ES) Visitors are drawn to the Gascoyne at this time of year, not only for the pretty wildflowers but also for one of the most unusual natural spectacles found anywhere on Earth: the bizarre mating ritual of the 'mungurragurra', or Dawon’s burrowing bee.

G LOS SA RY Yinggarda: Spoken by the Traditional Owners of the Gascoyne, it is an endangered language.

Rennee’s mother is one of only three people left in the world who can speak it fluently. bidd-idd-jin: The season of transition around the months of August and September.

Gwoonwardu: The traditional name for Carnarvon, which translates to ‘neck of water’. id-il-bah: Wildflowers mungurragurra: The Dawson’s burrowing bee.

Warlgu: Quandong gud-jur-arah: The creator of the Gascoyne River.

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As the name suggests, this strange bee does not live in a hive. It hibernates underground, in burrows beneath dry clay pans, to be exact. And actually, Rennee explains, only the female bee lives underground; the male bee has to find shelter on whatever flower he can.

Things reach a fever pitch of activity when the female bee emerges from her sanctuary and finds 10 to 12 male bees waiting to mate with her. It is not uncommon to see up to 30 male bees, Rennee says, wrestling each other in noisy death spirals, trying to reach a female.

“Sometimes the male bees miss their mark and pull each other to pieces in the frenzy,” Rennee says. “Other times, the female is accidentally killed. It is a brutal mating ritual; for the male bees, this is all they are here to do for their short lives — do the deed and die.”

Once the female is impregnated, she is left alone to gather pollen to line her underground chambers to feed her grub, and then she seals off her burrow ahead of their arrival.

marinades, this is not why this ruby-red fruit, which tastes like an enticing mix of rhubarb, cranberries and sour cherries, is highly sought after and prized by Indigenous people.

“We love to pick them straight off the tree and use them in pies and other desserts, but their real value lies in the kernel and husk,” Rennee explains. “It is a nutritional superfood, but we are interested in its healing properties. We grind it up to make bush medicine — balms and oils that help soothe muscle aches and pains and other ailments.

“We use the quandong tree for different things at different times of the year.

Sometimes we use the fruit; sometimes we need the root or the leaves. We weren’t just aimlessly moving around the desert; we walked with the seasons and utilised what was available and beneficial to us at that time. And we always left something for next season. Mother Nature taught us not to be greedy. She taught us how to live sustainably on our land.

“The stored pollen becomes like a slurry, and this was like a sweet treat for my old people,” Rennee said. “They would take a long stick of grass and dip it into the burrows like a sherbet stick. In the hottest months, from November to December, they would crack upon the earth to grab a whole cluster of chambers to cook on the fire. This was a substantial food source for us and shows that Mother Nature always provided us when we needed it the most.”

WA R LG U (Q UA N DO N G) Another plant that makes its presence felt at this time of year and holds special cultural significance for the Yinggarda people is the 'warlgu', or quandong. The fruit of this tree, a member of the sandalwood family, has twice the vitamin C of your average orange.

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“We understood that the fruit was also a vital food source for other animals, including birds, kangaroos, and emus, and we needed them to feed and flourish in abundance as well.

“As Traditional Custodians, we have a cultural responsibility to take care of Country. It is a huge responsibility. Country always takes care of us, and so we need to take care of Country.

“That is why we have some of the best prawns, the best crabs, and the best mullet in the world. The bush is our supermarket; the bush is our pharmacy; it has everything we need.”

have serpent or snake entities that are connected with waterways. We believe that in ancient times, he dug his way all the way from central Australia to Western Australia to create the Gascoyne River and the many waterholes along the way.”

The sand ceremony is a ritual that brings the past and the present together.

Yinggarda people believe gud-jur-arah is still present in the landscape, watching and listening quietly.

It is this intensely intimate and reciprocal relationship with the land that enabled Indigenous people to survive and flourish in a seemingly harsh environment for millennia. Rennee pays homage to this connection by conducting a sand ceremony at the end of each of her tours.

“The way I see it is, when you go to someone’s house for the first time, you don’t just walk through the front door and into their backyard and run amok and do whatever you like,” Rennee explains. “You knock on the front door first. And that is what we do with the sand ceremony: we get our visitors to grab some sand from the water’s edge, rub their DNA into it to reveal their true selves and intentions, and then throw it all into the mighty river.

“Waterways are sacred to us; they are the givers of life,” says Rennee. “So, when I take my guests to the Gascoyne River, I ask them to make their presence known to ‘gud-jurarah’, the Creator of the river. Many cultures

“You will start as a stranger, then you will be my guest, and then, lastly, I hope you will leave as family. And know that you are welcome here and welcome to return again.”

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O UTBAC K S U RV I VA L with BOB COOPE R

CONQU E R YOU R FE ARS , MASTE R TH E OUTBAC K I have now been teaching survival for over 40 years and am the author of the bestselling book, Bob Cooper Outback Survival. What seems to get people into trouble is that they don’t know what to do because they haven’t thought about it.

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here are two pressures when travelling in remote areas: tyre pressure and blood pressure. Neither should be high. That’s why we need to do some professional training in bushcraft and/or 4W driving before embarking on a trip. Knowing what to do dispels fear. Knowledge is the key.

In a survival situation, we shouldn’t make decisions based on fear.

Over the years, I have witnessed and felt the fear of death during potentially fatal land, sea and air mishaps. Survival skills can replace fear with respect for, and trust in, nature. Such knowledge enables people to walk freely and be nurtured by the ‘soul food’ provided by the natural environment.

Many irrational fears cloud people’s engagement with our outback — and even in the bushlands of suburbia. The fears of snakes, spiders, being lost, or being alone are all acquired fears. Knowledge is the key to dispelling them and replacing that emotion with respect. As a society, we need to recapture the survival skills and empathy with nature our ancestors instinctively knew. True appreciation and understanding of our natural environment may be the only factor that saves it and, on occasion, us. The survival courses

are my contribution to this necessary new awareness.

We should have knowledge first and then use technology as a backup. Don’t gamble with your life with technology; anything with a battery can fail.

Also, dehydration can often lead to poor decision-making. Sipping water alone does not prevent dehydration. We need to drink water in cupfuls (250ml) to keep all our organs working, particularly our brain.

Mishaps in off-road driving are usually the driver’s fault and not the vehicle. The correct tyre pressure is critical. We need to know the correct tyre pressure for the conditions before we get there, so the driver can be in control of their emotions and the vehicle.

Many things can also be hired for the duration of the journey, which is pertinent for most people who are doing trips for their holidays. Exploring remote areas of Australia instead of going overseas, particularly in the last few years, has become more popular, especially during the recent pandemic.

Exploring should be enjoyable, not concerning.

With the right preparations, all travel should be without fear.

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With over 40 years experience teaching Outback Survival, Bob Cooper has produced what he calls the ‘Trilogy for Survival’.

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BUSH MECHANICS with G EOFF LEWI S

U N DE R PR E SSU R E : T YR E R ECOVE RY There is no such thing as useless information, and nothing is over until it is over.

This rings true in the following article, as I found myself in a foreign vehicle in 50-degree heat in the heart of the Pilbara, stuck in deep sand. What saved the day? The most unlikely tool, and no, it wasn’t a shovel.

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tepping back from the situation, a month earlier I was giving my second batch of presentations at the Perth 4WD Adventure show on the subject of bush mechanics and was catching up with a good friend of mine, Richard from Adventure Off Road Training.

It didn’t take long for the age-old subject that everyone has an opinion on — the subject of tyre pressures. How low should you go? What is the magic pressure?

The reason for letting down our tyres is to spread the load of the tyre over a larger surface area. I always use the example that if you are in a pool, if you form a pin-like shape, you will sink straight to the bottom of the pool; however, if you lay on your back, you should float with relative ease.

Tyre pressure is no different, and this isn’t anything new; it has been a concern for humankind since the dawn of time.

Working through this, was it about the tyre pressure or something more? You see, with anything, it is about understanding the reason and principle behind why we are doing it in the first place.

How low do I go? Well, the idea of there being a magic pressure is a modern concept and isn’t the most effective way of getting the most out of your tyres. As mentioned above, it is about releasing enough pressure

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to allow the tyre to mould and deform under the weight of the vehicle, and this will be dependent on the following: 1. Weight of your vehicle: A Suzuki Jimny weighs less than a Dodge Ram! 2. Tyre construction: How thick are the side walls? Two-ply side walls will flex much easier than an eight-ply side wall.

3. Tyre type: Cross-ply or radial.

4. Terrain and conditions: Highway, sand, mud or rock. Hot or cold.

What we want to achieve in this case (sand) is to allow the high sidewall of the tyre to be roughly halved in height, which will increase the length of the track of the tyre; width comes second. Because at the end of the day, it is about bringing as much tread as possible into contact with the soft sandy surface.

So, what about tyre pressure? Well, it is just an easy way to set a benchmark for yourself to make the process easier in the future when it comes to deflating your tyres.

An example: As I mentioned, I was in the middle of nowhere in a foreign vehicle, a sorry-looking battered Toyota Hilux, in the height of summer and stuck in deep, soft sand.

Now, this might seem like a silly situation to be in. Why would anyone be out in the middle of nowhere in the Pilbara at the height of summer? It just seems stupid.

Well, there is a reason.

When I am not writing for magazines and producing adventure documentaries for Seriously Series, I run a geological consulting and contracting company specialising in remote fieldwork.

This line of work takes me to some of the most remote parts of Australia all year round. The client (exploration or mining company) needs to constantly feed the stock market with news of discovery to attract investment in their company.

Sitting passenger in the battered Hilux, we (my offsider and I) slowly made our way

down the sand track that was the drill line.

When we came to the end, there was a small trench in front of us. The front wheels of the Hilux went in okay, but as the rear wheels entered the trench, the Hilux stalled.

My colleague tried two more times to bring the Hilux through the trench but stalled both times.

At this point, I suggested we get out and have a look. The rear diff was sitting on the sand with the rear wheel half-covered, above the lower part of the rim.

I had only been on the job with the Hilux for a day or so, and not being my vehicle, I was not sure what we had in terms of recovery gear. It turned out that a snatch strap was all we had. Frustrated by this, I drew on the knowledge and conversation I had with Richard a month or so earlier and a survival book I read some time ago by Jack Absalom.

In the book, Jack mentions that when bogged in sand, don’t start digging it out, but clear the sand in front and behind the tyres. This way, they aren’t trying to push through the sand and out of the self-made trench.

Using this method, which I have used several times before, and armed with a tyre pressure gauge, I pulled my Victorinox multitool out of its sheath and flicked out its knife.

I pressed the tip of the knife on the valve to release the pressure from the tyre (no sticks at hand) and decreased the pressure until the side wall height was roughly half of what it was when fully inflated.

Now, with sweat dripping and feeling the heat of red sand coming through the soles of my boots in the midday 50-degree heat, I hopped in the cab of the Hilux, engaged reverse low range, and carefully released the clutch to minimise the chance of braking traction. Slowly but surely, the Hilux pulled itself out of its would-be sandy grave.

So, you can do a lot with very little, provided you understand the principle of what you want to achieve.

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W H AT ' S I N A N A M E? with PH I L B IANCH I

WE I RD DE S E RT AN I MALS AN D PL ANTS Australia is a land of many strange creatures and animals, most of which aren’t seen anywhere else in the world. In my travels over the years, I’ve marvelled at the way plants and animals have adapted to survive on this ancient continent. Instead of charging through to the next destination, take your time and check out some of our weird and wonderful animals.

M I STLE TO E

M I S T L E TO E

LESLEY BROOKER

Mistletoe, or Amyema preissii, is a parasitic plant; it survives by attaching itself to host plants. They are readily seen in roadside trees when travelling the Wheatbelt. The plant’s fruit is eaten by mistletoe birds. The mistletoe bird doesn’t have a gizzard; it has a specialised pouch behind its stomach that grinds its food, enabling the fruit to be digested without the seeds inside being destroyed by digestive juices. After the fruit is digested, the bird excretes the sticky seed onto the branch. If the branch is part of a suitable host tree, the seed then germinates, obtaining nutrients from the host plant.

This symbiotic relationship ensures that both the bird and the plant survive. What an adaptation! Who would have thought?

FL AT- S H E LLE D, LO N G - N EC KE D, O R D I N N E R- PL ATE TU RTLES

M I S T L E TO E B I R D

LESLEY BROOKER

To live in WA's harsh deserts, you've got to be very tough. Especially dinner plate turtles, they are awakened from being dormant by heavy rains. I’ve seen them at Windich Pool on the Canning Stock Route, where I surprisingly found the shell of a deceased turtle. When a waterway dries out, they bury themselves in the mud and remain in a state of suspended animation until the rain comes again. The often hard claypans or creek beds are then softened, allowing the turtles

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GREG HAREWOOD

D I N N E R P L AT E T U R T L E Chelodina steindachneri

to dig themselves out. They are quickly into breeding mode before the waterway dries out and the cycle starts again.

B U R ROWI N G FROG S Another species that has adapted to dry conditions is the Burrowing Frog. During dry times, these frogs burrow into the soil, where they create a cocoon capsule of fluid. The cocoon’s exterior stops the frog from drying out and dying. After heavy rains, moisture penetrates the earth and the cocoon, waking the frogs from their hibernation. Male frogs, smaller in size, ride on the female's back, waiting for her to lay eggs so they can then fertilise them.

GREG HAREWOOD

B U R R OW I N G F R O G Notaden niclhollsi

STEPHEN LANGMAN

S H I E L D S H R I M P Triops australiensis

S H I E LD S H R I M P Shield Shrimp (Triops australiensis)—no, they aren’t prawns, as Paul Hogan would want to say; they are more like something out of Star Wars. At 7.5cm, they are a remnant of prehistoric times and are found all through desert country. I’ve seen them at Durba Spring on the Canning Stock Route. After heavy rains, they can turn up in dried-out pools. Upon waking up, they quickly breed before the pool dries out again. The egg casing then dries out, and the egg lays dormant, awaiting the next rain. They’ve even appeared on top of Uluru. When dry, the eggs are easily blown around, which is probably how they were found up on the rock.

GREG HAREWOOD

B U R R OW I N G F R O G Neobatrachus sutor

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S PA N G LE D PE RC H Before you get excited and get your rods out, read on. Spangled Perch have adapted to survive in the outback and the deserts, making the most of rains when desert creeks and rivers flow. They have turned up in all sorts of places, including roadside ditches; however, if insufficient water is available for them to complete their breeding cycle, they die. These tough little critters can grow up to 600 grams and 25cm long; they can survive in fresh or seawater, and in temperatures just above freezing up to 40⁰C. Explorers made good use of them, either supplementing their diet or saving them from perishing. Explorer David Carnegie, when he reached what he later called Fish Pool during his 1896 expedition to Halls Creek, caught over 100 ‘by means of hooks manufactured by bending needles’.

Explorer Warburton and his men, during his 1872 expedition, were starving. Having run out of food, they had already eaten 12 of their 17 camels and were fortunate to find spangled perch to supplement their food rations.

A female kangaroo can have three babies at the same time: an older joey living outside the pouch but still drinking milk, a young one in the pouch attached to a teat, and an embryo awaiting birth. Most kangaroos, apart from Western Greys, are able to delay the development of their eggs in a process known as diapause, which is dependent on environmental conditions and their current offspring. Female kangaroos can determine the sex of their offspring. Did you know kangaroos can leap some nine metres in a single bound and travel more than 50km per hour? When I was about 10 years old, I went to the bush, down Collie way, with my father, a timber faller. We startled a kangaroo that had been sleeping under a grass tree; it took off at the speed of light. Seeing a thicket of bushes ahead, it leapt over them but landed in a creek with running water. It swam to the other side and hastily vanished.

KANGAROO

U P S I D E PE A B U S H This usual and pretty plant (Leptosema chambersii) is widespread across desert areas. It has red pea flowers clustered around the base of the plant rather than on top of the plant. Its branches are rather stiff when compared to those of other plants.

The plants grow in tufts and grow to around 30cm. Birds are the main pollinators, and it is thought the flowers have been modified for their benefit; however, the birds would need to be on the ground to feed.

K A N G A ROOS We’ve all seen them; what’s so special about them, you may ask? These amazing animals have some incredible adaptations. Did you know the kangaroo is a member of the macropod family, which means 'big foot'?

No, it isn’t the Yeti.

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WO M B AT

STEPHEN LANGMAN

ANT MIMICS ARLEE McMAH

WO M BATS These cute and cuddly-looking creatures frequent the Nullarbor area in WA but tend to stay away from heavily trafficked roads.

These marsupials can grow up to one metre in length and weigh up to 35kg. They are vegetarians and live in burrows, but they do have some strange characteristics; their pouches face backwards so dirt doesn’t accumulate and bury any young that may be in the pouch. Also, for unknown reasons, their droppings are cube-shaped. Some say the cubes act as territorial markers; the poop won't roll away and stays put. A group headed up by Patricia Yang and David Hu won an Ig Nobel Prize for Physics studying wombat poop. They found ‘it all comes down to the shape and flexibility of the wombat intestines, combined with the relatively dry environments in which the animals live.’

Rightttt! Don’t numerous animals living in dry environments have flexible intestines?

They don’t have cube-like poop.

A NT M I M I C S Yes, they do exist and are mostly spiders.

Animals that mimic ants are called myrmecomorphs. In 2018, I was at a camp on the Eagle Highway, some 400km east of Wiluna, with a scientific research group called Desert Discovery. Various scientists

were carrying out projects including bird surveys, collecting and studying plants, and trapping and tagging animals. One scientist was trapping and studying ant mimics for her Ph.D. I had never heard of ant mimics before meeting her. Why mimic an ant? Ants are numerous, and animals avoid eating them because they taste terrible. So they mimic looking like ants to increase their chances of surviving.

DENISE SWEETMAN

MARSUPIAL MOLE

M A RS U P IA L M O LE Although called a mole, it’s a small marsupial, and it’s not like other moles from around the world. Like other marsupials, their foetuses are partly developed in the pouch, where they suckle milk. Little is known about marsupial moles. They live by continually burrowing through sand, seeking out grubs and small reptiles. As they burrow,

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they simultaneously leave the sand behind them. One adaptation for survival is to extract the small percentage of oxygen that is found between grains of sand.

I've never been fortunate enough to see a marsupial mole, although I have seen where they’ve been tunnelling. In the photo above, you will see remnants of burrows that were discovered at one of several Desert Discovery camps I have attended.

EC H I D N A Echidnas, although porcupine-like, are a very strange animal: they don’t give birth like mammals usually do, but lay eggs.

They and the platypus are the only egglaying mammals, and both are found only in Australia. These shy creatures aren’t often seen, preferring to stay hidden. I’ve probably not seen more than ten in 30 years of four-wheel driving.

ECHIDNA

They are toothless and crush their insect prey between their tongue and the roof of their mouth. Echidnas feed during the night to avoid the high daytime temperatures.

They don’t have nipples; milk oozes out of their skin in the pouch. Baby echidnas are known by the enchanting name puggles.

Echidna spines are an enlarged, tough form of hair and are its main form of defence from predators.

One thing is certain: Australia never fails to surprise us with so many weird and wonderful plants and animals for us to marvel at.

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TH E TH I N G S YO U S E E ! with (TRUTH FU L) PH I L B IANCH I

CAN S AN D CAN N I NG This article is about canning, as in canned food, not caning, as our backsides may have experienced at the hands of a schoolteacher in the days of old.

I

f you travel anywhere in the outback, especially when poking around in the goldfields and ghost towns, you’ll find many rusting tins. Closer inspection will reveal some with large, 20-cent coin-sized holes in the lids, and often the covering cap is missing. What’s going on, you may ask? These cans held food and were used extensively by bushmen and prospectors back in the day. Note that the cans were not toilet paper dispensers, as Truthful Phil has jokingly told many believing people over the years.

129 men on board. They carried sufficient supplies for three years, including 8,000 cans of food. They also had cured meat and some live cattle. The expedition members were never seen again. The ships met with disaster, becoming ice-bound for more than a year. Subsequent expeditions found, on islands, abandoned equipment, clothing, and some human remains. A postmortem carried out on the exhumed bodies of three of Franklin's crewmen showed lead levels up to 20 times normal. They would have unknowingly suffered acute lead poisoning.

These cans held food and were filled, by hand, through the hole with meat, vegetables, stews, and such. Then the circular cap was soldered into place. This cap had a small vent hole in the centre, allowing the release of excess moisture and air when the can was heated. This process, known as pasteurisation, killed any bacteria. Once the sterilisation process was completed, the vent hole was quickly sealed with a drop of lead-based solder. Food processed in this way would then last for years.

Our early explorers and prospectors used canned foods extensively. Their diet otherwise would have been severely restricted; any fresh greens quickly ran out or spoiled. Dried foods such as fruit or beans, together with large quantities of salted meat, mainly beef, were also used.

Salted food, unbeknownst to them, was also a health disaster. When Alf Canning set off in 1906 to investigate the possibility of a stock route between Wiluna and Halls Creek, the food allowance included 10 lb. (4.5 kg) of beef a week. That’s a lot of salted beef, which could potentially harden arteries.

We, of course, were later to find that the ingestion of lead via the solder was bad for our health. Continued lead ingestion could cause agonising health issues, even death.

This method of canning was phased out in the early 1900s, with open-topped ‘sanitary cans’, as they were called, being introduced.

In 1845, Sir John Franklin’s expedition to find the north-west passage across the top of Canada sailed from the UK in two ships with

By the way, canned beef, also known as tinned dog, was extensively used by our WWI soldiers, with Fray Bentos being the main manufacturer.

Our early prospectors and bushmen were an inventive lot. They soon realised that by heating empty cans and lids, they could collect sufficient solder to enable them

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to carry out repairs to metal water tanks, canteens, utensils, and other such items.

Highly regarded explorer Frank Hann used recovered solder on several occasions when canteens split open.

In Australia, in the mid-1900s, lead was still used in the non-food manufacturing of everyday items, including paint and pencils.

Hence the term lead pencil, as used by school kids. Back in the day, lead poisoning from paint and pencils was relatively unknown, but its use continued.

It wasn’t all bad. In Australia, as early as 1846, tinned meat and boiled mutton were being produced and exported to England.

By 1874, it was reported that Australia’s balance of trade was significantly assisted by overseas sales of canned meat.

Initially, all cans were hand-made by tinsmiths. By 1900, automated machinery for the manufacture of cans in Australia made it possible for the production of 2,500 cans per hour.

How did lead taint canned food? When sealed, acids and enzymes in the canned food slowly attack the solder, releasing the lead. Lead exposure can cause high blood pressure and brain, kidney, and reproductive health issues.

While not related to lead poisoning, many modern-day campers and bushmen open cans of food and sit the open can on hot coals near the fire. In my opinion, this is an unwise practice because cans nowadays are lined with a plastic film that can release harmful toxins into the food. In addition, some of today’s cans can also release heavy metal toxins, such as cadmium and nickel, when heated. This is why modern cans are lined with plastic film in the first place. Don’t heat food in cans over an open fire, as you can’t control the heat level. The risk isn’t worth it.

Canned foods have come a long way. They are a boon for campers and prospectors, but treat the contents carefully so they don’t contribute to any health issues you may already have.

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C O U NTRY STA RG A Z I N G w i t h CA R O L R E D FO R D a n d D O N N A VA N Z E T T I A s t r oto u r i s m WA a n d S t a r Tr a c ks A s t r o Eve nt s

MAG I CAL N I G HTSCAPE S Spring is the perfect time to get out under the dark country skies and be in awe of the sparkling stars and planets overhead.

L

et's start with a close encounter between Saturn and the Moon, the Spring Equinox, and the wonderful constellation Scorpio!

The equinox marks the transition from winter to spring in the southern hemisphere and has almost the same number of hours of daylight as darkness.

Equinoxes happen twice a year, and on the dates of the equinox, the Sun is exactly above the Earth’s equator, causing an equal length of night and day. In 2024, the equinox occurs on Sunday, 22nd September.

Spring is a great time to find the constellation Scorpius. Learning to point out constellations is a lot of fun, and one of the easiest to find is Scorpius the Scorpion. It’s

a lovely, large constellation that really does form the shape of a scorpion! It is currently visible throughout the evening, lying directly overhead at around 8pm.

To find Scorpio, look for a reddish star, Antares, that lies in the centre of the constellation, known as the heart of the scorpion. See if you can find the curve of Scorpio’s body and the sting in its tail stretching up to the centre of the sky!

W H E N A N D W H E R E TO LO O K At 8pm during spring, Scorpio is directly overhead. Later in the evening, Scorpio sets in the west.

SCORPIUS

FUN FACT! Antares is a super-giant red star several hundred times the diameter of our Sun and is about 600 light-years from Earth.

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LU N A R O C C U LTAT I O N O F A N TA R E S

VENUS AND THE MOON

On Tuesday, 10th September, the Moon will pass in front of Antares, and the view should be spectacular. The star will begin to be occulted by the Moon at 10:07pm and will reappear at 11.10pm. It should be easy to see the star disappear into the dark limb of the Moon, so start watching from 9pm to witness the full effect. You’ll gradually see the Moon move closer to the star before blocking it completely from view.

This will look great through telescopes and binoculars if you have access.

SAT U R N A N D T H E M O O N On Monday, 14th October, stargazers are in for a treat as Saturn makes a close approach to the Moon! If you’ve never seen Saturn before, now is the PERFECT time to find the ringed giant. Just look for the bright star sitting just below the Moon. The following night, Saturn will be above the Moon.

Both objects are bright and brilliant in the night sky and worth noting in the diary for a 'sneaky stargazing binge'!

W H E N A N D W H E R E TO LO O K Monday, 14th October, at the end of twilight, looking towards the north-east.

On Wednesday, 6th November, there will be a lovely close encounter between Venus and the thin, slither crescent Moon. This gorgeous cosmic duet occurs after sunset, looking towards the western sky. Venus dazzles in the evening sky because the planet is covered in a thick layer of cloud that reflects most of the sunlight that reaches it, and being our closest planet, it appears bright and large in the night sky.

W H E N A N D W H E R E TO LO O K Wednesday, 6th November, at the end of twilight, low in the western sky.

Pop these cosmic events into your stellar diary and enjoy the magic of spring stargazing!

I N FO R M ATI O N BAY Find more stargazing tips and country events at: astrotourismwa.com.au If you’re a budding “astro-enthusiast”, check out Stargazers Club WA’s telescope classes and astronomy events for beginners at: stargazersclubwa.com.au

MOON AND VENUS

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FISHY BUSINESS with JOH N BORMOLI N I

S PR I NGTI M E BAR R AM U N DI Winter is certainly the most hospitable time to be touring the far north, camping, and exploring all the region has to offer. It’s a more comfortable time to be fishing too, given the extreme heat and the difficulties that come with the wet season in the summer. But while it’s definitely more comfortable, it’s the quietest six months of the year for finding our iconic northern sports fish, the barramundi.

B

arra become inactive and almost hibernate through the cooler months when water temperatures in the rivers and estuaries drop. The start of the warming temperatures from September onwards highlights the change that happens in these tropical waters, and by October and November, temperatures in the mid to high 30s are common. And with it come warmer waters and active barra.

The ultimate goal for lots of anglers is to land their first barramundi, and if that

can be accomplished without the aid of a guided charter, the experience is even more special. However, don’t be fooled into thinking it’s easy to crack it on your own.

Careful, detailed research is essential, and in addition, the insights from good local knowledge or someone with first-hand experience can’t be underestimated.

If you’re looking to be based in one of our bigger centres like Port Hedland, Broome or Kununurra and planning to branch out from there, the best local knowledge about the water levels and most productive spots to try is essential. Depending on the extent of the previous wet, erosion and water levels may make some spots more or less attractive or a waste of time.

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The highways that cross over some of our bigger rivers hold some great campsites and areas to explore nearby. The Ashburton, Robe, Fortescue, creeks around Karratha and Balla Balla, the De Grey, and Fitzroy are all well worth taking in if you have the time and inclination. If the warmer temperatures have kicked in and you know what you’re looking for in terms of deeper billabongs and pools, new exposed snags and structures, or likely rock bars, you’ll have some zones to target.

Shore-based fishing or dinghy fishing in the north does mean having to be well organised and prepared. The 4WD needs to be set up well for some serious challenges, even if you're not intending to take on the harshest country. You never know what this part of the world will throw up, but anything off-road can be testing.

Crossing flood pans, creek crossings, and very rough, rocky country can turn into drama in a vehicle without serious 4WD capability, the equipment to match, and at least some experience in these parts.

What most novices find is that getting to the best or most productive waterways

and spots that hold barra is not always straightforward. Again, there’s nothing better than accurate, first-hand advice and direction.

If you’re up for the hardened, off-road adventure and challenge of the inland Kimberley, then out from Kununurra, Derby, the Fitzroy, Kulumburu, and the Carson and King Edward River, the Mitchell Falls, the Drysdale, and remote spots permitted only by station owners will capture your imagination.

These are the spots that can be torturous to you and your vehicle and can’t be treated lightly. The excitement and awe of a great fishing adventure in some of the most remote environments can quickly turn into disaster, and these are places where there’s no quick repair or parts.

There’s no doubt the fishing can at times be mind-blowing when the barra are up and running. Rattling bibless style lures that can be drifted down deep near snags often entice barra in the early part of the warm season, and even poppers twitched around shallow rock bars work well. Deep diving

K I N G E DWA R D R I V E R , K A LU M B U R U

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be a rewarding investment if you’re serious about chasing barramundi.

Terrain aside, there are other things to watch out for too. Typically, where there are barra there are usually crocodiles, and big salties are not to be ignored — especially the ones you can’t see. Spring tides and their rapid change of state should be factored in carefully with proper calculation. And for the uninitiated, big sandflies and midgies will make an angler’s life hell if you fish near the mangroves, uncovered. and small minnow-style lures retrieved near small, run-off creek mouths work well too if a barra is there laying in wait.

When all else fails, however, a live bait is usually irresistible. Getting a licence for a throw net and learning how to use it can

The challenge of finding a barra early in the season before things get too hot is worth the effort if the homework is thorough. The bonus, of course, is being in the pristine and captivating environment of our beautiful north.

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When we camp #WeCampWell

Come and visit our family owned and operated, independent camping store for unique and exclusive products you won’t see anywhere else in Perth.

9/58 Erindale Rd, Balcatta Phone 08 9344 6252 campingoverlanding.com.au

G E A R TO G O CA M P I N G All featured products available from Go Camping & Overlanding 9/58 Erindale Road, Balcatta. Visit campingoverlanding.com.au

WI LD E R N E SS EQU I PM E NT WI LD LI FE HAT Honed in Western Australia over the past forty plus years, the brand Wilderness Equipment introduces their latest release, which is very useful to keep that blazing WA sun off your head!

The Wildlife is a classic outdoor cotton/polyester blended hat, ready for the path or the pubs!

The unique front peak in the brim will maintain its shape even in the strongest of winds or heavy downpours thanks to a HDPE board that keeps it stiff. The flap at the back is removable and does a damn fine job of stopping you from becoming a redneck. It has other cool features too, including vents and drawcords to keep you comfy!

Available in numerous colours, it fits most heads with two sizes: a Small/Medium, and a Medium/Large. $54.95 will get you covered!

Also new to the line-up is a comfy cap.

Made of the same material, it is worth a look for a versatile piece of outdoor headwear for just $34.95.

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G E A R TO G O CA M P I N G

M ONT M IC ROFI B R E TOWE LS With bulk and weight always at the forefront of four-wheel drivers minds to ensure they keep within vehicle weights, a microfibre towel is a great way of keeping you in check and being on hand to keep you (or your gear) clean and dry.

The microfibre towel is far from a new concept, but Mont has made theirs a little more interesting by teaming up with artist Siena Montgomery to feature images of Aussie flora. Plus, they have ensured that their towels are luxuriously soft and made of 100% recycled microfibre, which is highly absorbent, quick-drying, and perfect for camping and the outdoors.

Little features that make them useful include a zippered storage bag and a tag loop for easy hanging. Available in four sizes, they are priced from $24.95 to $49.95.

PETE R G ' S SOAPS AN D S HAM POOS Okay, so this is not technically a new product, but one of the great WA brands, Peter G's has overcome some supply obstacles it has faced in recent times and is back in store in plentiful quantities at Go Camping & Overlanding.

Its ability to lather in all water conditions, including sea water, makes it a must for all travellers, especially those heading to our coastal wonders.

A pH-balanced formula that is sodium-chloride-free can help relieve skin irritations and reduce dandruff, as thousands of people have discovered since the introduction of Peter G's Marine Soaps over half a century ago!

Specially formulated from coconut and essential oils, selected conditioning and water softening agents make Night 'n' Day Shampoo and Soaps ideal for everyday use.

There are handy sizes for personal, family, or group use, with prices starting at $17.95 for the 250ml personal pack.

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G E A R TO G O CA M P I N G

FLE X TAI L MA X S HOWE R Flextail is a company that has produced a series of reliable and lightweight electric gear for the outdoors. The brand has a focus on handy pumps for inflation and deflation of a wide range of inflatable equipment, as well as lighting, which is often incorporated into their pumps. But the pumps don't stop there, with their Flextail Shower being a fantastic little lithium-powered water pump that is submersible and has a multifunction shower head in the package. The shower has a three-litre flow, a run time of up to 70 minutes, and a stream that pushes out to nearly eight feet.

Priced at $129 for the full kit, including a storage case, this is a fantastic item for the car or van.

S E A TO S U M M IT D ETOU R R ANG E The design team at Sea to Summit usually spend their time working on how to make something lighter weight, but this year, they have released a range of products that are aimed at car camping and van life with higher durability on offer, with many features of the lighter weight range carried over, including a high focus on packability. Their offering of camping cookware, dishware, and utensils features robust, heavier-duty stainless steel but is often coupled with collapsible features using silicone. Removable handles add to the compact nesting ability to keep the equipment sitting tight in the often limited storage spaces found in cars and vans.

And good news for those with massive power supplies: the pots have been designed to be used on induction.

The range contains cutlery, pots, eating wear, and even chopsticks, starting as low as $29.99. western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

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S M O K E Y O UTBAC K

POTATO & BACO N SOU P

I

t’s that time of the year again where I pull out the big guns and come up with a delicious winter soup to enjoy around the campfire if you happen to be lucky enough to be camping, or around the fire pit in the backyard if you can’t get away.

Cooking is always a bit of a science experiment, and this is where I find a lot of people get a bit put off doing any experimentation just in case their particular combination of ingredients doesn’t seem to taste quite right.

Have a go anyway, is what I say; guaranteed, SOMETHING will eat it.

Pretty much all the recipes under the sun already exist; it’s just up to us to put our special touch and flair on a tried and true family favourite, and if it doesn’t work, at

least you had a go and tried something a bit different.

Last winter, I gave you my version of pumpkin soup, and this time it’s a bit of a mashup, literally, of potato and leek and potato and bacon.

You see, as I live a good three hours’ drive from any major shops, often times I find myself staring into the fridge at what ingredients I have, especially vegetables, and how I can use them before they are pronounced dead and have no prospect of being resurrected into something delicious (fair warning: if you ever come for dinner, they have to be really beyond hope before I give up on them and consign them to the bucket for the feathered compost making machines).

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C LE W E D U P with JO CLEWS This time I wanted to make potato and leek, but I had no leeks. I did, however, have bacon, so potato and bacon was the ultimate decision.

The only problem was that I had some left-over cooked sweet potato from dinner the night before, so before I knew it, it had all been chucked into the pot to come up with some sort of creamy creation. With the addition of a number of other ingredients, I have to say I was pretty pleased that the combination wasn’t a disaster and was enjoyed by my guests so much that they came back for seconds!

You will need: 5 small potatoes, roughly chopped ½ medium-sized sweet potato (orange or white doesn’t matter)

Cover the ingredients with water and cook at a slow simmer until the potato is well cooked and disintegrating. If able to blitz in a food processor, allow the soup to cool down and then process until smooth.

For a more rustic and chunky version, attack it with a potato masher and mash the daylights out of it.

Place the pot back on a low heat and allow the soup to reduce slightly and become very thick. Stir regularly so it doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan.

At this stage, make sure you taste it and add as much salt as you think it might need. A few minutes before serving, add the 300ml of cream and allow it to heat back up again.

Serve with the garnishes and an extra chunky slice of bread for a hearty, warming winter meal. Enjoy!

2 medium onions, roughly chopped 2 rashers of bacon, chopped 1 rasher of bacon, finely chopped and cooked for garnish Enough water to cover the ingredients when they are all in the pot 1 teaspoon of smoked paprika ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper (less if you just want a hint of spice)

Use your favourite spiced BBQ rub if you don’t have the other spices

1 teaspoon of garlic powder or crushed garlic 300ml of pouring cream

Bread croutons are a delicious addition to this soup, along with the bacon bits

Salt to taste 3 tablespoons of olive oil or butter This can be made in a small cast iron camp oven over fire coals or on a gas burner.

Heat the camp oven or soup pot with olive oil or butter inside. Add the bacon and onion and cook till both have a hint of colour, then add the potato and sweet potato, paprika, garlic and spice.

Add some colour to the soup by using orange sweet potato Finely chopped cooked spicy chorizo or salami makes a great garnish Stir through some thick sour cream before serving

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4WD C LU B FO C U S If you would like your club featured here, please email admin@western4wdriver.com.au

TOYOTA L A N D C R U I S E R C LU B O F W E STE R N AU STR A LI A

G HOST TOWN S

BY FI D O

T

he gloomy weather forecast mirrored the eerie sense of anticipation as we assembled at Lakes Roadhouse, ready to delve into the ghost towns of the Goldfields' forgotten past. Our fearless leader, Brick, led the way towards the rising sun on Great Eastern Highway, and we all formed a convoy behind him. The next five hours would be the worst road of the weekend, with the endless potholes and corrugations of the Great Eastern never disappointing. We were blessed with clear skies all day while rain chased us across the countryside.

We pulled into Boondi Rock around 2pm and eagerly got the awnings up over dry dirt before the clouds finally caught up with us to release their precious cargo. With camp set up, libations were soon flowing, and stories of faraway places like Marrakesh, Turkey, and Morocco were bantered back and forth. The rain gods were to win this

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night, and there would be no fire. Before the evening was over, our fearless leader found himself thrown to the ground by a failed expanding Kmart camp stool. Thankfully, nothing was hurt but his pride, and we all headed to the shelter of our swags for the night. The sweet pitter-patter of rain on canvas made for sound sleeping.

We broke camp and headed west with a 9am departure. After topping up the tanks in Coolgardie, we turned north into ghost town territory. Bonnie Vale made for a lovely rest stop and a great opportunity to get out and poke around. There was plenty of broken glass and old foundation rubble to explore before the first rain flurry of the day chased us back to the trucks.

A couple of clicks up the way the bitumen ended and the mud began. Thankfully, the roads were still open, and we proceeded

with caution. We came to a dry lakebed infested with sea monsters, cranes, dogs, cows, and a plethora of other creatures, with the only point of commonality being that they were all concocted out of rubbish. It demanded another stop and a walk around to examine the hilarity of it all. Black swans and crocodiles of tyres, dogs from boots, and cows from trash receptacles were all represented. Someone took to heart the saying that "one man's trash is another man's treasure".

Back in the saddle, we headed along before rounding the corner to an absolute mudageddon. The sand road surface had given way to clay, and the previous few days of rain had turned the road into a slimefest.

It became an exercise in car control, and the odds were that someone would end up in the ditch before it was all said and done. Remarkably, we all managed to keep

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it together and make it through unscathed.

Some in the group mentioned it was the slipperiest road they had ever experienced.

Many ghost towns were explored throughout the day, most notably Kunanalling, with its large hotel still standing, and Siberia — so named because it was the most miserable place imaginable.

In Siberia, we took the time to scrape the excess clay from our wheel wells before it turned into concrete. A couple of people figured the resulting loss of weight brought them back within their legal GVM ratings.

With the day getting on, and more rain in the forecast, we felt it prudent to secure a bush camp for the night. After exploring a few side roads, a suitable field was found, and the cows seemed inclined to share.

The afternoon clouds broke, and we were blessed with a lovely evening. Soon a campfire roared, and stories of mud-driving

heroism were compared. Brick had brought two wooden ducks from a decommissioned pond, and we made a ritual sacrifice of them to the flames. One by one, we each drifted off to our pillows.

Overnight, the heavens opened, and the rain flooded down for hours on end. In the morning, it was apparent that some had chosen higher ground than others, with Brick lucky that he slept on a cot.

Over coffee, we speculated about the road conditions ahead after the significant precipitation. The worries were for nought, however, as the mud was much less severe than the previous day.

We glopped our way forward through puddles and across mud plains before finally making it to pavement again. The theme of ghost towns continued, with many stops at homesteads and old graves along the way. Mining towns were remarkably short-

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lived, with an average tenure of 8–10 years before rolling up the carpets and heading to the next mining strike. We pulled up for morning tea at Goongarrie Station. It hosts a lovely campground, with many rusty automotive relics and farm machines dotting the landscape. All agreed it would be a great base of operations for further exploration of the area.

From there, we took a narrow track towards the town of Comet Vale, where we again joined up with pavement. After stopping to collect significant amounts of rubbish we headed towards the old Broad Arrow Tavern.

To our surprise, it had been re-opened and was doing a lively Sunday business.

We sampled some of their 'world-famous Broady burgers' before heading further to the south.

The convoy passed through Kalgoorlie and then kicked it into high gear on our way to

our intended campsite at Mount Palmer.

When we got to Coolgardie, a couple of the thirstier vehicles were thrown into a brief panic when they found fuel stations closed due to a power outage. Luckily, electricity was restored as we circled through town. We topped up and proceeded west. An hour and a half along, we came to the turn-off for Mt. Palmer. The day was getting long, and the road was more challenging than expected, so we pulled up for a bush camp. With only intermittent rain flurries we set up another campfire and only had to seek out the cover of awnings once.

The next morning, we drove the rest of the way through a fair amount of mud to the Mt. Palmer townsite. A lovely arch still stands from what was considered the flushest bush hotel in all of Australia. The hotel was eventually sold for its bricks and wooden stairway, which were transported to

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Kalgoorlie and used to construct a Selfridges chain store, which eventually became Coles.

Oh, how the mighty have fallen. The convoy then proceeded to Westonia to examine their lovely museum and have pastries and coffee. From there, it was off to Bakers Hill for one last pie before parting ways.

Rain and slippery roads were the theme of the trip. Some among us secretly yearn for a muddy adventure and relish the fun of driving sideways to our destination. Others, however, begrudge the task of cleaning up the carnage left on the undercarriage after a 'misadventure' like this.

Our group leant towards the latter, with only two giggling maniacally over the radio while the others lamented their muddy fate. All in all, everyone agreed that it was a memorable experience!

Throughout the trip, we stopped at nine ghost towns, including Bonnie Vale, Kunanalling, Kintore, Ora Banda, Siberia, Goongarrie, Comet Vale, Bardoc, and Mt. Palmer. These are only a fraction of the towns in the area, and the subject bears further exploration.

Thanks to Brick for leading a fantastic trip and to all the others for their fine company!

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CA P TU R E TH E M O M E NT with U NCLE DICK STE I N

WE LL DO N E BA R BA R A! You’ve won a Vehicle Survival First Aid Kit valued at $130, from

“S

low Down! Slow Down! Slow Down!”

Why? I’m going under the speed limit.

“There’s water in front of us! It’s a river! It’s a lake! It’s the ocean!”

For heaven’s sake, it’s a puddle. You’ve seen bigger ones under the railway in Claremont since the 1960s … Lighten up.

“But it might be deep! It might be full of crocodiles! It might be a tidal wave! Aaaaaaahhhh!”

It might be full of submarines, but I don’t see any periscopes. Look, if it’s any comfort, I’ll cross the white lines and go though it at the shallowest part …

“But what if a big truck comes up and runs over us? Then what?”

Then we don’t have to worry about the piranha …

We all have people who ride with us and tell us what to do. In the Air Force they’re navigators and on the ground they’re family members. You can trust the former …

This is a great shot that our winner captured. The blue water balances the blue sky perfectly and there is just enough splash to show that it was, indeed being taken at a safe speed. The vehicle went back to the left hand side after the water and continued on with everyone happy.

The only thing missing is a bus shelter full of people waiting there beside the right hand side lane. Every holiday trip needs a high point …

FO LLOW U S O N FAC E B O O K A N D WATC H FO R O U R R E Q U E ST FO R E N TR I E S FO R YO U R C H A N C E TO W I N !

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S M A R T P H OTO G R A P H Y w i t h K A R L F E H L AU E R

DRON E PHOTOG R APHY: FLIG HT PL AN N I NG TI PS AN D APPS Welcome to the latest edition of this great little magazine and my second article on drones. My first article was all about the rules for flying drones here in Australia, and I hope that you got something out of it. In this article, I'll discuss several apps I use to plan my flights and share tips that I hope will make your flights safe and enjoyable.

I

n the Army, we had the ‘7 Ps’ when we were planning any activity, and I still refer to them today: Prior Preparation and Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

Basically, the more effort you put into a plan, the better it will be. No one plans to fail; you just fail to plan (okay, enough of the Army lingo!)

It is very important that you plan all of your drone flights so that you operate within the rules and have a safe flight.

The first part of flight preparation is planning where you intend to fly and whether you can fly there or not. To do this, there are a number of apps available to download onto your smartphone or computer that will assist you. I have three

main apps that I use for this: two are flight planning and one is weather planning; however, the CASA website, casa.gov.au, has a lot more apps that you can check out and use. Just click on the Drone Tab, and it will take you there.

APPS The apps that I use are Ok2fly, Open Sky, and Dronecast, and all three are available for download from either the Play Store or Apple Store, and best of all, they are free.

Ok2fly provides a detailed visualisation of all airports and runways in your planned location. It also provides an extended radius of your drone's flight area to help

DOG ROCK

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E AG L E S TO N E R O C K & L A K E B R OW N

you plan your flight. It has a street-level vector map for the whole of Australia and fully implements the CASA Drone Rules by providing basics like "yes I can” or "no I can’t” fly there, plus much more information to assist you in your flight planning.

an internet connection. The weather information includes the current conditions at the time of flight, predicted conditions later in the day, and the wind breakdown so that you will know if it is safe to fly your drone or if the winds will be too strong.

Open Sky provides guidance for drone flying by using CASA Compliance Maps and will help you identify any risks or flight hazards.

I always check the apps as soon as I start to plan my flights, and then again the day before and on the day of the flight, as weather conditions can change quickly or no fly zones are implemented due to an incident or other activities.

Both apps are CASA-approved and reasonably easy to use and navigate. You just open the app and locate the area you wish to fly your drone in and either drop the ‘Pin’ (Open Sky) or touch where you wish to take off from, and the apps will provide you with the updated information for that location. Note: 1. Both apps require a connection to the internet to provide up-to-date information; therefore, if you are planning to fly to a remote location, you will need to check the app before leaving.

2. When opening the apps’ maps, the further you zoom into the maps to add your location, the more accurate the information will be.

Drone Cast provides up-to-date weather information for the location you intend to fly your drone in, and again, it needs

TI PS Okay, you have planned where you want to fly, checked the apps, and everything is looking good for your flight or flights, so here are some tips to help you with your flight preparation and your flight.

Return to Home Height This is a very important feature to set, and one that a lot of drone flyers forget until it’s too late. All drone apps allow you to set a ‘Return to Home’ height so that in the event of something going wrong, the drone can safely return to home at a safe height. You need to set it at a height that is higher than the tallest object in your area. I generally have my height set at between 30 and 50 metres, but I will go higher if need be.

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Batteries Make sure that you have enough batteries for your planned flights and that they are fully charged. I always charge my batteries fully the night before the flight; that way, I know that they are fully charged, and it also identifies that your batteries are in full working order, as there is nothing worse than turning up at a location to fly your drone and the batteries are flat or dead.

Also, do not store your fully charged batteries for more than two days, as they will start to go flat, and never store your batteries if they are fully flat, as lithium batteries don’t like being stored fully charged or flat, as it can lead to premature failure of your batteries. I always land my drone and store them with approximately 20% battery life left in them.

A note on safety when charging drone batteries: I strongly suggest that you never leave your batteries on the charger once they are full, as there have been many instances of lithium batteries bursting into flames because they have been left on a charger for too long.

Note: If you notice that your battery

swells, then it is time to get rid of it, as it is becoming dangerous. I have had one battery swell and become very hot.

Rules and Regulations Make sure that you know all the rules and regulations for the area where you intend to fly your drone. This means not only the CASA rules but any rules set by local councils and shires, as they may have no launch zones in their areas, i.e., the City of Perth. Also, if you are on private property, you need to make sure that the owner is happy for you to launch and land a drone on their property.

Flying Too Close to Objects Always check the area where you are flying for objects that may interfere with the flight of your drone, in particular at your landing or takeoff zone or your visual line of sight.

Take-Off Issues Check the area that you are launching from to ensure that it is safe to do so and that there are no obstructions in the way. Ensure that there is no one in the area close to you and that you have a clear line of sight to launch your drone.

CA M P H A R T

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MONGERS LAKE

Flight Mode

Maps

Most drones have at least three flight modes: Cinematic, Normal and Sport. So before launching, make sure that you are in the flight mode you want to be in and haven’t left it in the mode from the last flight. I suggest that takeoff and landing should be done in Normal mode.

All of the drone flying apps allow you to have maps running on them, whether they are in the corner of the app or full screen.

I strongly suggest that you use your maps to assist you with your flight navigation, in particular when you are at the edge of your visual line of sight, as it will assist you in knowing where your drone is at all times.

Hand Launching and Catching I don’t hand launch or land, but I know others do, so when hand launching or landing, ensure that the wind is coming from behind you so that should there be any sudden bursts of wind or it drops, the drone will be less likely to move suddenly and cause injuries to your hands and fingers (ask me how I know!).

Remember, drone flying is fun, but it comes with a high level of responsibility to ensure that you and others are safe.

In my next articles, I will talk about how I plan and take my photos and videos with my drone.

So until then, keep the shiny side up, and if you don’t, get lots of photos or videos.

D U N DAS

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N OW W E ' R E TAW K I N G !

T R AV E L L I N G AU S T R A L I A W I T H K I D S

w i t h LU CAS H AY

CO N S I D E R I N G S E LLI N G U P AN D TR AVE LLI N G AU STR ALIA WITH YOU R FAM I LY? H E R E ’ S WHAT YOU N E E D TO KN OW …

“In the end, kids won’t remember that fancy toy you bought them, but they will remember the time you spent together.”

In recent years, a growing number of families have been renting or selling their homes and belongings to embark on the ultimate adventure: travelling Australia in a caravan.

Here at TAWK — Travelling Australia with Kids — we know all about the first steps you’ll need to take to start out on such an epic journey. If it’s something you have considered before, read on — this article may inspire you to stop thinking of it as a dream and start calling it a plan!

T

ravelling Australia in a caravan is the ultimate family adventure. It's not just a journey, but a transformative experience that fosters deeper connections, creates lifelong memories, and provides unparalleled educational opportunities.

Australia is renowned for its diverse and stunning landscapes. From the red deserts of the outback to the lush rainforests of Queensland, the scenic diversity is unparalleled. Travelling in a caravan allows families to immerse themselves fully in these environments, waking up to different breathtaking views every day.

Sites like the Great Ocean Road, Uluru, and the Whitsundays become your backyard, offering daily doses of nature’s grandeur.

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meals saves on dining expenses. Many attractions, such as national parks and beaches, are free or low-cost, making it easier to stick to a budget.

In our fast-paced world, family time often takes a backseat. Caravanning across Australia provides an opportunity for families to reconnect. Without the usual distractions of modern life, families can engage in meaningful conversations, play games, and enjoy shared experiences.

This journey encourages teamwork, from setting up camp to navigating routes, which strengthens family bonds.

One of the greatest advantages of travelling by caravan is the freedom it offers. There’s no strict schedule or itinerary to follow.

Families can choose to stay longer in places they love or move on whenever they please.

This flexibility makes it easier to adapt to children’s needs and interests, ensuring a more enjoyable experience for everyone.

Travelling is also a powerful educational tool. As families traverse Australia, children can learn about geography, history, ecology, and different cultures firsthand.

Visiting historical sites, national parks, and Indigenous communities provides practical knowledge that no textbook can offer. This hands-on learning fosters curiosity and a love for exploration in children.

Australia’s natural beauty is best appreciated up close. Caravanning encourages families to spend more time outdoors, engaging in activities like hiking, swimming, fishing, and stargazing. This connection with nature is beneficial for physical and mental health, promoting a sense of well-being and relaxation. Children, in particular, benefit from outdoor play and exploration, developing a sense of adventure and environmental stewardship.

Living on the road presents its own set of challenges, from unpredictable weather to mechanical issues. Facing and overcoming these challenges together builds resilience and problem-solving skills in children. It also fosters a sense of independence as children learn to adapt to new situations, contribute to daily tasks, and take on responsibilities.

The caravanning community is a vibrant and welcoming one. Families often meet fellow travellers at campsites and caravan parks, leading to new friendships and social interactions. Children get the chance to play with peers from different backgrounds, while parents can share tips and stories with other travellers. These interactions enrich the travel experience and create a sense of community on the road.

While the initial investment in a caravan and supplies might seem substantial, travelling by caravan can be more economical in the long run compared to traditional holidays.

Accommodation costs are significantly reduced, and the ability to cook your own western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

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The minimalist lifestyle that comes with living in a caravan encourages families to focus on what truly matters. Without the clutter and distractions of a traditional home, families can enjoy a simpler, more intentional way of life. This simplicity often leads to a greater appreciation for experiences over material possessions, fostering a mindset that values connection and adventure.

C H OOS I N G TH E R I G HT CA R AVA N When selecting a caravan, consider factors such as size, amenities, and budget. It’s important to choose a caravan that meets your family’s needs and is comfortable for long-term travel.

Packing efficiently is key to a successful caravan trip. Prioritise essential items and consider the climate and activities you’ll be engaging in. Don’t forget important documents, a first-aid kit, and tools for any necessary repairs. Ensure your caravan is in good condition before setting off.

Familiarise yourself with safety procedures and have a plan in case of emergencies. It’s also wise to have a reliable communication device and a GPS, as well as the 'old faithful' paper map.

ITI N E R A RY A N D R E S E A RC H While flexibility is a perk, having a rough itinerary can help manage time and ensure you don’t miss out on key attractions. This is paramount for long-term travellers, as school and public holidays can make it difficult to find sites. Research campsites, caravan parks, and free camping spots well in advance.

Set a realistic budget for your trip, including fuel, food, entry fees, and other expenses.

Having a financial plan helps avoid unexpected costs and allows for a stressfree journey. Remember to get your lifetime TAWK membership and join your tribe.

Travelling Australia in a caravan with your family is more than just a holiday; it’s a journey that nurtures relationships, educates, and enriches lives. The experiences gained on the road create lasting memories and instil values of curiosity, resilience, and appreciation for nature. As you traverse the diverse landscapes and immerse yourselves in the local cultures, you’ll find that the journey itself is the most rewarding destination. So, pack up your caravan and set out on the ultimate family adventure across Australia — the land of endless exploration and boundless beauty. Until next issue, safe travels, and hopefully we see you on the road soon!

For more travelling tips please visit our website travellingaustraliawithkids.com

150 | Western 4W Driver #131 | western4wdriver.com.au

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B U SS E LTO N S PR I N G S TO LI FE WITH I NAUG U R AL CAR AVAN AN D CAM PI N G S H OW The inaugural Busselton Caravan & Camping Show is set to take over Churchill Park, near the Busselton foreshore, on Saturday, 21st September, and Sunday, 22nd September.

Catering for both seasoned campers and newcomers, the family-friendly event will showcase a wide range of caravans, campers, and camping gear.

Visitors will have the opportunity to gain insights from industry experts and explore automotive and 4WD exhibits from Bunbury GMSV, Busselton 4×4, Muir Power Sport & Marine, Muir Ford and Muir Nissan.

Beyond the camping displays, the show will also feature live performances by Scott Pearce and Olive Mae, a Family Fun Zone with face painting, giant lawn games, the St John WA Wiggles Ambulance and interactive wildlife encounters from Critters Up Close.

KU LI N SADD LE S U P FO R 2024 B U S H R AC E S The legendary Kulin Bush Races return in 2024, bringing a weekend of racing, entertainment, and community spirit to the Wheatbelt town from Friday, 27th September to Sunday, 29th September.

Now in its 29th year, the Kulin Bush Races has grown from 1,500 attendees in its first year, to over 4,000 racegoers annually, and is run by over 250 volunteers from Kulin and beyond.

“This event is not just about racing; it’s about bringing people together to enjoy a day of fun, entertainment, and camaraderie,” said Chairman Tom Murphy.

Since its humble beginnings, the Kulin Bush Races has contributed over $1.8 million from the event’s proceeds back into the community by supporting local community initiatives and projects.

This year’s event features plenty of family fun, from rock climbing walls and laser tag to face painting and novelty races. There will also be live music from Mil House, Pinstripe, Sally Jane and more, plus a variety of food stalls offering everything from classic Aussie BBQ to gourmet treats.

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WA’ S B I GG E ST 4WD AN D ADVE NTU R E S H OW R ETU R N S

G R E AT SOUTH E R N R EG I O N TO B LOSSO M TH I S S PR I N G

The Australian 4WD and Adventure Show returns to Perth this year, taking over McCallum Park in Victoria Park from Friday, 8th November to Sunday, 10th November.

Bloom Festival is set to celebrate ‘everything that blooms’ this spring, as the popular annual event returns to the Great Southern region from Saturday, 21st September to Sunday, 20th October.

Western Australia’s largest outdoor leisure event, the show will be a premier destination for outdoor enthusiasts, showcasing major brands in caravans, camper trailers, motorhomes, 4WDs, SUVs, camping gear, fishing equipment and more.

This year, the show will introduce several exciting new features, including the Bush Mechanics Area, presented by Geoff Lewis from Seriously Series; the Toyo Tires’ Open Country Zone; the Hema Maps Adventure Travel Stage; and the Isuzu Iron Summit.

The Engel Bush Camp Stage also returns this year with special guests Graham Cahill from 4WD24/7, Ronny Dahl, Sam Eyles and Bridget from Red Dirt Diary, and the team from Channel 7’s The 4WD Adventure Show. Unsealed 4×4 will host this stage, offering a line-up of engaging talks and demonstrations.

Show Your Dirt makes a comeback as an exclusive show-and-shine competition, showcasing the top 20 vehicles selected by Sam Eyles from Built Not Bought.

The show will also feature popular YouTube creators in its Content Creator area, where visitors can meet them, explore their vehicles, and learn about their latest travels.

As the Great Southern Treasures’ signature event, Bloom Festival delivers vibrant experiences for visitors from across Australia to enjoy what the region has to offer during spring.

Events and activities include arts, crafts, displays, exhibitions, fauna and florathemed activities, creative workshops, food events, markets, Noongar cultural events, open gardens, wine and dine events, family fun days, movie nights, live music, heritage trails, guided flower walks, tours and hikes, including through the Stirling and Porongurup Ranges.

The Festival spans the entire Great Southern Treasures region, from Kojonup out to Pingrup, down to Bremer Bay on the coast, across to the Porongurup and Frankland River, taking in major centres such as Katanning, the Stirling Range and Fitzgerald River National Parks, and everything in between.

For more information, head to greatsoutherntreasures.com.au

Visitors can also enter a draw for a chance to win the Ultimate Gibb River Road Adventure, a six-day outback tour valued at $25,000. western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

153

QUARTERLY CROSSWORD Read the mag cover to cover and you'll have no problems solving this puzzle.

DOWN

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1.

3. GVM

Remote controlled flying machine often used for aerial photos

2. Unique Kimberley tidal attraction 5. Ships of the desert 6. Iconic northern Australian sports fish 7. Home of the 'Broady Burger' 11. WA volunteer organisation that manages locations of environmental, cultural and historical significance 12. Accessory used by detectorists 15. Site of an earthquake in 1968

4. Canned beef 8. Super giant red star 9. Popular springtime drive trail 10. Slang for travelling on foot 13. Baby echidna 14. Recently released 4WD made in France 16. Desert crustacean 18. Signals the beginning of autumn and spring

17. An Aussie dog

Answers will be published in the Summer edition of Western 4W Driver

Winter - Issue 130 Crossword solution from Winter Edition #130

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154 | Western 4W Driver #131 | western4wdriver.com.au Down: 1. Blue ‘threadie’.

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Across: 5. The Roman goddess of love and beaut 7.

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western4wdriver.com.au | Western 4W Driver #131 |

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