Première Vision Paris / Daily News / Feb16 / Day 1

TUESDAY THE DAILY NEWS 16 FEBRUARY 2016

SMARTFACTS

EXHIBITORS EVOKE A RESPONSABLE INDUSTRY P.6

SMARTCREATION

Russo Di Casandrino (Leather, 3E81-3F90)

FASHION TAKES A STAND FOR THE WORLD OF TOMORROW P.7

YARNS

Launch of the SS 17 Trend Book by fibre producer Birla Cellulose. Hall 5.

5N91-5P88

FABRICS

Free tasting of organic fruit juices in the colours of the season.

Red Bar, Hall 6. aisles N and P

LEATHER

Sound Box, the experimental multimedia space echoing the themes of the leathers and furs season. Hall 3

DESIGNS

All the trends for decoration in the free ‘Borderlines’ document.

Designs Forum.

Hall 5

ACCESSORIES

Highlights for technical components and leather materials for shoes.

Shoe Focus. Hall 4

MANUFACTURING

Exhibition dedicated to denim fashions in collaboration with Demeure studio and exhibitors. Upper Jeanswear. Hall 6

3

PM

IFM SOURCING CONFERENCE How is the euro reshuffling the supply deck?

HALL 5, ROOM 501. FREE ENTRY.

THEY INSPIRE FASHION In its latest campaign, Première Vision Paris showcases its legendary close ties with those who, at the weavers, tanners, furriers, accessory makers, knitters and creative textile and surface design studios, dream-up, create and invent…

SHIGOTO PROJECT LECLAIREUR, partnered with Première Vision Paris, has solicited 15 designers to update a key piece of their men’s collection: the Shigoto jacket.

A timeless model, inspired by Japanese work jackets, with a low-key and functional cut.

Manufacturing, HALL 6.

NEWS INTHE

Maria Manzini, Selecta Como “The key to our creations is ‘unpredictable simplicity’. The simplest graphics are printed on complex jacquard fabrics, alternating transparent and opaque areas. Printed netting, gummy finishings, laminates and burnt-outs create volume effects, for a rich and discreet result.“ Fabrics, 5D16-5E15

2

Andrea Gorone, SEAB “A quest for technology goes hand in hand with a rediscovery of hand-made traditions. The crew-cut and felting of our labels are the result of an industrial adaptation of long-ago embroidery techniques. We also use metallic yarns and sublimatic printing for innovative volume effects.“ Accessories, 4G12

Sandra Macedo, Polopique Tecidos “The accumulation of techniques is a real trend: we enrich poplins and oxfords with cut-yarn or embroidered motifs. Whether they are geometric or figurative, these motifs are still very small, for a casual but elaborated look.“ Fabrics, 6E10-6F7 Sarah Nemoz, Cuirs du Futur “Our stretch leathers are treated with a metallic, glittery or fantasy paper transfer, which guarantees a unique visual relief. The result is complemented by an overprint of animal or herringbone motifs and a finish that gives leather a very natural velvety touch.“ Leather, 3F43-3G44

© Il était un fil

ACCUMULATED PROCESSES OR INTERMIXED MOTIFS – WHY CHOOSE, WHEN YOU CAN HAVE IT ALL?

INNOVATIVE, BEAUTIFUL, EASY, ACCESSIBLE ACESSORIES… WE CAN’T DO WITHOUT THEM !

Innovative but easy-wear products. technique. Addressing the demand Useful but aesthetic. Accessories for connectivity, “il était un fil“ has can no longer afford to be... just edited a range of small women’s accessories. They also have to be bags incorporating a battery to attractive, integrated, comfortable, recharge smartphones. And 3D indispensable, etc. The new printing of course opens new Vibram (Accessories, 4D53) shoes perspectives, seized on by the perfectly anticipated this Vojd studio. consumer expectation, exploring Accessology area, Accessories, HALL 4, AISLE H. the ancestral Furoshiki wrapping

SPRING SUMMER 17

AGUIDEDVISITOFTHESEASON

PASCALINEWILHELM THE PREMIERE VISION FASHION DIRECTOR TAKES US THROUGH THE SPRING SUMMER 17 INSPIRATIONS

What’s a still-life?

It’s a question Ulysse & Darcoe asks us to reflect on, daring to elaborate the beauty of life by combining raw organs and fresh flowers, in reference to the notions of improbable alliances at Fabrics.

LEATHER Take a deep breath of inspiration by viewing the film dedicated to the leather season.

Leather, TREND GALLERY. HALL 3

CAN’T-MISS SEMINARS Season trend tasting, for complementarities between fabrics, leathers, designs and accessories.

Wednesday 17, 12.30 pm.

HALL 5, ROOM 501 (FRENCH AND ENGLISH).

Colour trend tasting, a thorough reading of colour highlights.

Tuesday 16, Wednesday 17 and Thursday 18, 10.30 am.

HALL 5, ROOM 501 (FRENCH AND ENGLISH).

Fabrics trend tasting, to identify the season’s essential materials. Wednesday 16 and Thursday 18, 12.30.

HALL 5, ROOM 501

Leather fashion breakfast, the season’s key colours, products and materials for the leather and fur markets. Daily, 10:30 am.

HALL 3, GOLD PREMIUM LOUNGE.

© Peter Gentenaar, © Ulysse & Darcoe

The gorgeous and voluptuous plants by Dutch sculptor Peter Gentenaar are made of bamboo-reinforced paper pulp. These not-quite-natural flowers distil their beauty and echo the flowery season at Designs.

DESIGNERS JOIN HANDS TO GIVE LIFE TO THEIR CREATIONS AT THE DIGITAL PRINTING LAB It’s a jungle - a jungle of designs, prints and creativity, invented and presented by the Demeure studio. It’s an exploration of digital images printed on fabrics and leathers, proposed by Philea (Fabrics, 5E23), Tessuti&Tessuti (Fabrics, 5M32), Bodin-Joyeux (Leather, 3G54), and Russo di Casandrino (Leather, 3E81-3F90). Little bags have also been created by Demeure using designs by Box à Motifs (Designs, 5U66) and the Mokolo Voltaire studio (Designs, 5U71), with its pop, colourful and sometimes offbeat graphic universe.

Digital Printing Lab by Demeure, Designs. HALL 5, AISLE Y THE COLOUR RANGES HIT A HIGH NOTE The digital range shared by Fabrics and Accessories includes emphasised colour stories, and colour directions for fabrics and accessories. In addition to the textile poster and colour card, a digital tool delivered on a USB key can be downloaded to creative software. The Leather colour range is adapted to the specificities and harmonies of the leather market. It is available not only in a paper version, but also on key materials and aspects.

Available at all sales points.

3

TO MAKE EVERY PART OF YOUR VISIT EASY, DOWNLOAD THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS APP, FEATURING THE LIST OF EXHIBITORS, INSPIRATION AREAS, EVENTS... TAKE NOTES ON LINE AND GENERATE YOUR OWN COMPLETE VISIT REPORT.

NEWS INTHE

CORK, A NATURAL MULTI-TASKER Ever-so-light cork is appealingly natural looking, and also has technical properties.

At Katy (Accessories, 4C48), it updates bows and butterflies in eco-friendly versions. It is broken down in airy decorative motifs on all textile bases at Com-Prensa (Accessories, 4C28). La Compagnie Française Du Bouton (Accessories, 4C15-4D15) likes to use raw cork for its buttons from the sportswear universe, while LMA (Fabrics, 6F15) combines it with a breathable technical membrane perfect for outdoors.

BUSINESS SECURITY AND INTELLIGENCE: A REPORT AND 14 RECOMMENDATIONS TO PROTECT CREATIONS The Copyright Unit® at Première Vision was launched in 1994 under the leadership of attorney Corinne Champagner-Katz, an intellectual property lawyer and a consultant in business and economic intelligence. Ever since it has offered exhibitors and visitors an active tool to protect creative designs and fight against malice and counterfeiting. Some 21 years after the start of this initiative, the

“Economic Security at Trade Fairs“ report, sponsored by the prefect of Paris and the Île-de-France region, confirms the commitment of public authorities to protect all the tangible and intangible means that make a trade fair a hub for all the actors in an economic sector. The normative Charter resulting from this report lists 14 operational measures. These are specific practical and ethical measures, which continue to put Première Vision at the forefront in the fight to protect creation and intangible assets.

Copyright Unit®, HALL 6 SOUTH

1

PM

Awarding of the ENSAD Leather Accessory Prize 2016 for young talents.

HALL 3, MEZZANINE, GOLD PREMIUM LOUNGE

Katy (Accessories, 4C48)

PASCALINEWILHELM uThe pure and spontaneous portraits of Pegge Hopper, an illustrator based in Honolulu, speak of slowness, languor, heat. Burnt tan and skin colours combine with fresh pastels in a new exotic aesthetic that inspires summer 17 at Leather.

tUnderstanding nature in depth, photographing it, measuring it, dissecting it, and reconstructing in 2D these three-dimensional optics: such is the quest of Japanese artist Macoto Murayama. An illustration of the close relationship between scientific and poetic approaches to Fabrics.

4

tThe rakus created by Russian ceramist Marika Akilova display magnified imperfections and a deceptive fragility.

These cracks that have no risk of breaking echo refined surface irregularities, highlighted at Accessories.

© Island Noon (détail) Pegge Hopper, © Macoto Murayama courtesy of Frantic Gallery, © Marika Akilova/photo Dmitry Alekseev.

GUIDEDVISIT

NATURALLY MODIFIED

A FORETASTE OF SUMMER 17, TO SAVOUR IN FULL AT THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS FORUMS.

01 THE BODY OF TRANSPARENCY This season, we see silks that are more organza than chiffon, and translucency for outerlayers rather than underlayers, along with cut-yarn motifs that are as much cottony as silky. Echoing the evanescence/substance duo in fabrics, fasteners combine opacity and transparency, in wood/plexiglass or raffia/plastic assemblies.

Phantastudio Due (Designs, 5V65)

01

03 MAGNIFICENT PLASTIC Shine and artificial reflections dress up natural materials. Coated leathers, vinyl-look skins, polyamide/cotton assemblies, and visible membranes on naturals flaunt a synthetic gleam.

04 GRAPHIC VERTIGO Offbeat geometric compositions, broken stripes, arrhythmic motifs: rupture and asymmetry are energising visuals. Motifs are sliced into, decomposed and recomposed; they skid and catch up to each other, both in textile designs and prints.

05 PURELY PRIMITIVE This is the story of a new alliance.

Raw, natural, original materials tip over into an extremely refined register, and vice versa. The noblest skins flaunt bumpy surfaces, and flat-out wrinkles. Sturdy cottons and damaged-looking rugged linens reveal their luxurious materiality to the touch. Raffia, cordings and strings are smooth, refined, and suppler, for handles that leave rusticity behind.

02

04 Lanificio Faisa (Fabrics, 5L23)

Passamani (Leather, 4D02)

Marc Rozier (Fabrics, 5J25)

02 BEYOND FLORALS Flowers bloom where they’re least expected. Scattered among skins or in buttons or accessories. In fabrics, florals showcase large-scale blooms, treat themselves to pop-art accents or spice up overly serious botanicals.

This season there’s a break between iconic flowers and their graphic, spontaneous, freehand treatment.

Material is transformed, transcended. There’s a reinforced complicity between natural and artificial. Leathers and fabrics adopt papery handles. Accessories have cork aspects. Woods are polished up a precious lustre. Authentic skins are covered in coatings while cottony gabardines are enriched with viscose and Tencel® for enhanced suppleness.

05

03

Almatea (Leather, 3H14)

VIEW IN

SPRING SUMMER 17

16

FASHION INFORMATION FORUMS ARE FOUND ACROSS OUR 6 SHOWS.

5

6

VIEWPOINTS

WE SPEND A LOT OF ENERGY SOURCING SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS. We want to create a responsible collection.

And beyond searching for eco-friendly materials, we even look for vegan concepts.

The resulting patches are made of 100% recyclable plastic or 100% reclaimed leather, i.e. with skins recreated from existing leathers.”

TRACEABILITY OF SOURCING, RESPONSIBLE PRODUCTION, ENVIRONMENTAL AND ETHICAL INTEGRITY: SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT, FROM PRODUCERS TO CONSUMERS, IS KEY TO PERFORMANCE AND APPEAL.

Cristina Buelli, Redmark

Accessories, 4F16 WE BELIEVE IN THE FASHION REVOLUTION. Since 2007, we have been developing an ecofriendly line called “... because we care”, exclusively made of responsible yarns, whether recycled or organic, focusing on a respect for the environment and social values in business.

Our goal? To make fashion with sustainable fibres that are mistakenly considered to be sad-looking or too expensive.

And when our cottons are not actually certified organic, we have made them from fabric waste. Our wools are organic as well. We also use milk fibre, with moisturizing and antibacterial properties, and polypropylene fibre that is anti-bacterial, anti-stain and water-repellent.”

Elisa Paoli, Euromaglia

Fabrics, 5L26-5M25

WE BET ON REGIONAL PRODUCTION AND SHORT CIRCUITS BY PURCHASING SKINS IN FRANCE. You can’t forget that without the tanners, waste centres globally would be overwhelmed: we provide a second life to raw hides and skins from slaughterhouses.

We’re always looking for sustainable innovations, and we also try to anticipate the customers’ needs, with, for example, leathers that are machine washable, or perfectly suited for summer thanks to unique thermal properties.”

6

Caroline Krug, Tanneries Pechdo, Leather, 3G4

WE TARGET ENERGY SAVINGS. Our service providers responsible for the dyeing of our production are sensitive to the protection of the environment. Thus, water used in the various staining and finishing processes may not be discharged in rivers before having been completely retreated.”

Renato Bitter, Savyon

Fabrics, 5N38

OUR WAY OF THINKING IS SUSTAINABLE. Traceability of hides and skins, industrial processes minimizing the use of chemical products, an attention to the health of our workers, standard 14001, etc.

Our work solutions must protect the environment.”

Enrica Miramonti, Conceria Gaiera Giovanni

Leather, 3A89-3B90

WE HAVE A ROLE TO PLAY IN LOCAL DEVELOPMENT. We have chosen to put the accent on education, to promote technical and professional instruction by partnering with universities to favour the students’ entry into the business world.”

Ahmed El-Shrief, Egyptian Spinning

Yarns, 5P81

SPRING SUMMER 17

“SMART CREATION IS A UNIQUE AND GROUND-BREAKING PROGRAM, BECAUSE, FOR THE FIRST TIME, BRANDS, RETAILERS, BUYERS, ETC., HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO DISCOVER THE SUSTAINABILITY AND RESPONSIBILITY INITIATIVES AND VALUES OF THE TEXTILE PRODUCERS.” Giusy Bettoni, responsible-innovation consultant to Première Vision and founding president of C.L.A.S.S.

“SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT IS A PILLAR OF THE REPUTATION OF PREMIUM BRANDS. IT IS AN ADDED VALUE BOTH NOW AND FOR THE FUTURE, PROVIDING A NEW ECONOMIC MODEL FOR BUSINESSES AND A STIMULUS FOR THE END-BUYER.“ Chantal Malingrey, Director of Marketing and Development at Première Vision

Incredibly smart, the smog-free tower by Daan Roosegaarde in Rotterdam absorbs CO2, purifying the surrounding air and using the pollution residue to create carbon diamonds for the jewellery industry.

© Studio Roosegaarde

DOYOUHAVEA SMARTQUESTION?

THEFASHIONWORLD GETSCOMMITTED SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT: AN ISSUE FOR TODAY Between the abundance of the offer, exhaustive media exposure and the accelerated deterioration of our environment, consumers are imposing new ethical requirements when making fashion purchases.

More and more industry professionals appear to be seeing sustainable development as an added-value for their collections, to address this critical concern, now a fixture of 21st-century consumer spending. But how to combine the business world’s underlying demand for profitability with this civic engagement? It was to answer this question that Première Vision launched Smart Creation. This platform for analysis and communication aims to identify and promote the sustainable production

and creative processes at its shows, to provider visitors more transparency and information. The program was launched with a survey conducted of over 1,600 exhibitors from July 2015 to January 2016. Tomorrow at 2:30 pm, a Smart Conversation* will reveal the results of this extensive survey, which suggests ways to better understand and communicate the commitment of textile professionals in terms sustainable development. Analysed and quantified, their Smart Facts* are indeed already quite numerous.

From traceability sourcing to environmental and ethical values in their businesses, and eco-responsible production methods, sustainable development is proving to be, more than just a fleeting marketing opportunity, a true source of economic growth and competitiveness.

Consultant in responsible innovation for textiles, fashion and design for Première Vision and founding president of C.L.A.S.S, Giusy Bettoni will be moderating the discus-

Log-on to our special Smart Hotline, accessible via Whatsapp at +33 (0)6 38 37 50 94. Also discover all the participating exhibitors and their sustainability initiatives on our mobile app or the website www.premierevision.com. And that’s not all...Come meet with the exhibitors who have made sustainability a core value thanks to a specific visual posted on their stands. You can also discover a selection of creative, innovative and responsible products in the Tech Focus forum (HALL 6).

sion tomorrow, featuring Carlo Sorrenti, Head of R&D at the Groupe Tod’s, Alfonso Saibene, Director of the Supply Chain and Sustainable Development at Canepa (Fabrics, 5H10-5J13), Andrès Franco, Associate Director of Communications for P&G Europe Fabric Care, and Chantal Malingrey, Director of Marketing and Development at Première Vision. The results of the analysis will be illustrated by concrete examples around this concept of sustainability: production that further reduces the consumption of water, chemicals and energy, drastic reduction of waste, transforming waste into fashion products, materials with innovative performance features to extend fabric lifespan, etc. And labels are using their creative and innovative power to make their own production more responsible and sustainable. One label spokesman openly sees in sustainable development “a new sense of effort that may seem tedious in its implementation given well en-

trenched work habits, but proves in fact to be the start of a new way of being that is healthier in terms of not only ethics but also competitiveness. Between environmental, social and economic sustainability concerns, eco-design is, for us, a new modus operandi that meets everyone’s approval. And research is on-going. That’s the most important thing.” Given ever more attentive customers, producers and brands now appear to be focusing on transmitting their values: responsibility also involves consumers, who are offered products with extended lifespans thanks to their innovative properties. So profitability can get in tune with sustainability in our homes too. *CONFERENCE: “SMART CREATION PREMIERE VISION: ACTIVATING THE FASHION VALUE CHAIN.” WEDNESDAY 17 AT 2:30 PM. FREE ENTRY. HALL 5, ROOM 501. *RESULTS OF THE SMART CREATION SURVEY WILL BE PUBLISHED IN THE PREMIÈRE VISION DAILY NEWSPAPER ON THURSDAY 18.

7

MY JOB

DESIGNER

Jeremy Somers, owner and creative director of the Circleline studio, (Designs, 5Y32), was featured in the latest Première Vision Paris promotional campaign.

YOU HAVE TO BREAK THE RULES...

Think outside the box.

Challenge. But, then, you also have to know how to transpose your ideas into creations. These are all fundamental to being

a designer. You have to continually surprise. That’s what we’ve been trying to do for the past 18 years.

By designing, printing, embroidering... In some ways design studios are the unsung heroes of the fashion industry. Twenty years ago, Photoshop revolutionized the lives of designers, and clients became accustomed to digital printing. Twenty years ago, our clients were European. Today, we are embracing the Chinese market, with the some of the most exciting designers in the world. Continuing to show at trade fairs is to a way to give a face and a character to our business, our offer. Otherwise you are nothing more than another suitcase full of designs. You know what real success is for me? A client who looks truly surprised at what he’s just seen.

MY JOB

COMMERCIALARTIST

Federica Martini Masoni, head of the style department for the tannery Masoni Industria (Italy) (Leather, 3C112), was featured in the latest Première Vision Paris promotional campaign.

I EXPLORE NUANCES …so that the creations of the tannery are seen and admired by others. From the colours of the leathers right through to the stands and sales tools, my job is to make it all attractive. As a child, I liked to paint. Even though I studied economics, I never forgot my passion for art. In 1998, I put my artistic passion to work at the Masoni tannery. In my view, the fundamental thing is to never lose one’s curiosity.

Enjoy freedom in your work,

8

but every so often be brave enough to look back. To build on rewarding relationships, and the on-going exchange of ideas with chemical and technical centres, and the larger trend bureaus. Don’t always give

in to the siren call of modernity. I always design the stands by hand, I prefer watercolours to Pantone, and I communicate with my colleagues by phone rather than email... Maybe that’s why I never stress out?

Director of the publication: Philippe Pasquet/Première Vision: 59, quai Rambaud, 69285 Lyon Cedex 02 - Tel.: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 00 - Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09 e-mail: info@premierevision.com - Production: TOTEMIS - © Photos: Stéphane Kossmann, François Durand, Richard Bord, RR FOLLOW ALL THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS NEWS AT PREMIEREVISION.COM