Blossom Première Vision July 2018 booklet

PA R I S CARREAU DU TEMPLE

4 & 5 J U LY 2 0 1 8

CHAN GE IN DAYS LOCAT & ION

FABRICS | LEATHER | ACCESSORIES

COME DISCOVER A LEATHER MANUFACTURING EXPERIENCE

DURING THE 2 DAYS OF THE SHOW, THE ATELIER BISON TEAM WILL BE FABRICATING A ONE-OF-A-KIND LEATHER GARMENT. www.bison-cuir.com

111 EXPERT EXHIBITORS - WEAVERS, TANNERS AND ACCESSORY MANUFACTURERS AWAIT YOU AT THE CARREAU DU TEMPLE IN PARIS TO UNVEIL THEIR LATEST PRE-COLLECTIONS.

A SELECT, HIGH-END OFFER OF THE FINEST QUALITY

NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENTS, THE NEWEST INNOVATIVE MATERIALS, COLOUR DIRECTIONS...

THE SEASON HAS WONDERFUL SURPRISES IN STORE FOR YOU!

THIS BOOKLET GIVES JUST A TASTE OF THE AUTUMN WINTER 19-20 KNOW-HOWS AND PRODUCT DIRECTIONS TO DISCOVER AT BLOSSOM PREMIÈRE VISION, NEXT 4 AND 5 JULY.

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Blossom Première Vision launches the autumn-winter 19-20 season, with pre-collections championing originality as a driver of differentiation.

This fashion season cultivates a very personal, particular and distinctive expressiveness.

Fabrics, leathers and accessories unleash tactile surprises.

Soft materials convey a sensuous generosity.

Fantasy looks express unconventional and moving messages, pointing to exciting, disruptive and likeable fashions.

Intense, vibrant colour juxtapositions reveal a first taste of the season with, in preview at Blossom Première Vision, a sophisticated and eclectic colour range.

Enjoy discovering it all!

© Aratani Fay 2016

A FINE-QUALITY AND SELECTIVE OFFER

FABRICS ALBERT GUEGAIN BRODERIES • A-GIRLS • ACHILLE PINTO • ALA CAMPOLMI • ALBINI, DONNA • ALEX BEGG • B-BLOSSOM • BELINAC • BELLANDI MANIFATTURA LANE • BEPPETEX • BOUTON RENAUD • BUCOL • CANEPA • CLERICI TESSUTO & C • DEBS • DUTEL CRÉATION • ERICA INDUSTRIA TESSILE • ESTETHIA G.B. CONTE MARZOTTO GROUP • ETIQUE • FANCYROSES BY RODILOSSO • FCN TEXTILES • GIPITEX • GIRANI • GRATACOS • GRUPPOCINQUE • GUIGOU • HIRONEN • HUREL • INSETA • JA FABRIC BY TAKISADA NAGOYA • JACKYTEX • JEAN BRACQ • JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN • JOSEPH H. CLISSOLD • JULES TOURNIER SINCE 1865 • KOMATSU SEIREN • L’ATELIER DEVEAUX • LA TORRE • LANIFICIO BISENTINO • LANIFICIO ROBERTO DRIGHI • LAURENT GARIGUE • LES TISSAGES PERRIN • LODEN STEINER • LUXURY JERSEY • LYRIA • M.T.T. MANIFATTURA TESSILE TOSCANA • MALHIA KENT • MANTECO • MANTERO • MARINI & CECCONI/ASSOTEX/MARINIUOMO/ OSPITIDELMONDO • MARIO BELLUCCI • MITSUBISHI CHEMICAL CORPORATION • OFFICINA DIV. STAMPERIA DI MARTINENGO • PIZVAL • PONTETORTO • R COLLECTION - RATTI • RAFANELLI - LANIFICIO F.LLI BALLI • RATTI - MARZOTTO GROUP • RIOPELE • S.F.T. - SAMPIETRO GROUP • SELECTA COMO • SERIDE • SFATE & COMBIER • STYLEM - ZEN KIWAMI • SWING BY GRUPPOCINQUE • T.E.S.J DIV. DUCA VISCONTI • TESSILGODI • TEXMODA TESSUTI • TISSAGES DENIS & FILS • TORAY INDUSTRIES / DPT. ULTRASUEDE • TSUBOYOSHI ORIMONO • ULYSSE PILA / REYNAUD REXO • WEFT

ACCESSORIES CADICAGROUP • GRITTI GROUP • JULIEN FAURE • LINEA ELLEBI DECORAZIONI MODA • PACT EUROPACT • RECA GROUP • SATAB • ZIP GOFFREDO

LEATHER ALRAN • BONAUDO • CARISMA • CHIORINO TECHNOLOGY • CONCERIA CENTRORETTILI • CONCERIA CILP CONCERIA SUPERIOR • CUIRS DU FUTUR • CURTIDOS BADIA • DEVICONCIA • FALCO PELLAMI • GRUPPO MASTROTTO • INDUCOL • INDUTAN • ISISI • ITALIAN CONVERTER • JEAN TERZAKOU • MASONI INDUSTRIA CONCIARIA • MEGISSERIE ALRIC • MEGISSERIE RICHARD • OPERA • RIAL 1957 • RUSSO DI CASANDRINO / ABIP BY RUSSO DI CASANDRINO • SANLORENZO • SETTEBELLO CONCERIA • TANNERIE REMY CARRIAT • TANNERIES HAAS • TANNERIES ROUX • VALORI • VICTORIA

NEW EXHIBITORS IN BOLD

J U L I E N FAU R E

ACCESSORIES

A L I T E R A L LY N E W S K I N F O R JACQUARD RIBBONS! France’s Julien Faure stretches the boundaries of the art of weaving ribbons.

Discover new leather aspects and an inhouse solution for fray-proof labels.

For winter 2019/20, ribbon-maker Julien Faure is bursting with precise, inventive effects to give a new look to its famous woven jacquard ribbons.

Leather aspects are to be unveiled for the first time at Blossom Première Vision. Velvet ribbons with satin backing and others with the look of soft straps are all part of the renewed line-up. These luxury products are intended to ornament anything and everything a person can wear: hats, shoes, leather goods, watches and more.

With a 150-year history weaving luxury materials, Julien Faure has over the years developed its own shuttle looms with expanded capacities, as well as its own CAD software. The offer of fray-proof woven silk labels illustrates the company’s taste for subtle fine-tuning.

Available in an array of bright colours (green, pink, yellow, rainbow) the winter collection features a wide range: plains in grosgrain, in taffeta, silk satin and mixed yarns as well as semi-plains with simple mini-motifs and stripes.

One category presents fringed ribbons with brocade and transparent effects worked on light organza grounds, along with wide ribbons with very fine motifs and raised effects.

Finally, the Vintage family employs thick yarns to give archival products an embroidery aspect.

PAC T E U R O PAC T

ACCESSORIES

FINISHING IN A 3D ERA Textile and leather decoration specialist Pact Europact adds 3D embossing to its array of ultra-personalized finishing techniques.

A first for France’s Pact Europact! Now, 3D embossing strengthens its range of artistic decorative textile and leather effects. Visitors to Blossom Première Vision will get a first taste of this new technique, on display as part of the collection for AW 2019/20.

Embossing consists of producing a raised motif, decorative effect or graphic. It is achieved by heat branding or high-frequency cold embossing, and enhances the precious quality of the raw material. «This 3D treatment opens vast creative opportunities, allowing us to recreate all kinds of shapes - belt buckles or animal motifs, etc.» says Kristil Papin, style director at Pact Europact.

The French company enriches their embossings with various complementary techniques: embroidery, screen printing, water-jet and laser cutting, etc. And in this vein, other feats are in sight.

Cut-yarn embroidery is one variety, illustrated by a dragon decoration. This technique opens another new method of enhancing decorative effects. A new ‘Boule’ stitch is developed on a colourful star pattern.

More than 80% of Pact Europact’s products comply with the specific demands of high-end leather goods, couture and ready-to-wear brands.

The new collection captures clients’ imaginations with a showcase of new decorative renderings: multi-colour screen printing mixed with placed cords, leather appliqué cut-outs and embroidery assembly on textiles, laser engraving and embroidery on leather and jeans, placed sequins and more.

A - G I R L’ S

FABRICS

A P L AY O N T E X T U R E A N D S E N S AT I O N A-Girl’s novel pre-collection plays on the complementary relationship between technology and originality, fashionforward knit techniques and heirloom manufacturing. Inspired by the past and the future, knits are enhanced with creative textures and tactile sensations.

With a singular sense of style, A-Girl’s is known for its ability to pack a unique feel, ideal weight and exceptional drape in its knitted fabrics. For next autumn winter, the Japanese knitter adds unconventional surface texturing and sensory tactility. The final result is a versatile knit range, targeting upscale menswear, womenswear and athleisure.

Single jerseys, French terries, ribbed and double-face knits are made from select fibres with traceable origins such as premium cashmere, New Zealand wool, high-twist long-staple cotton, and Cupro cellulosic fibre. The AW1920 colour palette embraces nourishing wheat-toned beiges, fiery reds, strong grass greens and dirty greys to blues amongst other nuances.

Special finishings mimic a worn-out or washed-over-time aspect, adding a trendy non-conformist spirit.

A-Girl’s aims to deliver the essence of luxury through innovative manufacturing combined with skilled expertise, using both advanced custom-knit technologies and rare vintage machinery. This unique approach sets the Japanese company apart in today’s technology-driven textile and fashion industry.

ALBINI DONNA

FABRICS

A FEAST OF COLOUR Beyond the launch of a capsule collection of sustainable white fabrics, Albini Donna’s AW1920 women’s shirting collection looks to be dominated by colour, with 70’s-style stripes taking centre stage among fancies.

For next winter, Albini’s unique yarn-dyed expertise is put to great effect in a line of women’s shirtings where colour plays a starring role. The world renowned producer of Giza 45 and Supima shirtings has fun this season with lively colour schemes ranging from a nourishing ochre yellow, rich pink, mysterious violet and toxic rust to softer ‘bluette’ and calming greens. Deep hues join forces with timeless neutrals, blues, and the mandatory black and white in a myriad of constructions.

Albini Donna’s vast AW1920 range of plains, micro-textured semi-plains, flannels, jacquards and other weaves are made from select fibres, some natural, others not. At the next Blossom Première Vision, Albini Donna launches its first capsule collection of sustainable white fabrics made with organic cotton, organic silk, and branded man-made cellulosics (think Tencel Micro and Cupro). Wool marks its presence too.

The Italian mill picks the finest micron wools to be spun using an in-house engineering technique, to offer fabrics of outstanding quality, elevated by a warm cosiness and contemporary appeal.

Along with paisley jacquards and fancies in cut-yarn constructions, Albini Donna favours striped patterns inspired by 1970’s designs.

ALEX BEGG

FABRICS

DOBBIES AND CASHMERES: A WINTER WITH CITY AND COUNTRY ACCENTS The Scottish countryside and an urban aesthetic are all part of the luxury fabrics at Scottish weaver Alex Begg, a renowned specialist in fine-quality accessories and luxury suitings.

The Alex Begg pre-collection for winter 1920 juxtaposes the countless textures found in the Scottish countryside with a grittier, urban mood.

These two atmospheres inspire the luxury weaver in both its main activity sectors: the fabrication of shawls and scarves and the weaving of luxury fabrics such as jacquards and dobbies with high-quality finishings, in cashmere, cashmere/silk blends and fine merino.

The pre-collection being unveiled at Blossom Première Vision is enriched with a new type of fancy yarn. Contemporary, twistedyarn blends are introduced into the classic cashmere suiting ranges. Suitings and outerwear are livened up by new colourways, juxtaposed with oversized dobbies worked in luxurious blends.

In business since 1860, the Alex Begg company, located in the south west of Scotland, develops and fosters traditional Scottish artisanal weaving, enhanced by the most advanced processing and finishing technologies. The company makes it a point of honour to guarantee a strictly monitored supply, both in terms of the quality of the selected fibres, and the social and environmental standards applied throughout the supply chain, from the breeding conditions of animals on through the processing stage.

C A N E PA

FABRICS

S U B L I M E E C O - F R I E N D LY F A B R I C S At Italy’s Canepa, sustainable materials and novel constructions are used to lively effect in plains, prints and jacquards.

The Canepa mill is adding recycled polyester, cotton and regenerated wool yarns to its jacquard and brocade lines.

A 100% GOTS certified jacquard is proposed in yarn-dyed mercerized silk and cotton. In this vein, the Lanery Collection illustrates a compendium of ecoresponsible fibres (organic cotton, recycled polyester and nylon, vegetable dyes), technical performance (water-repellent and breathable fabrics) and luxury.

The 2019/20 winter collection cultivates ingenious connections between grounds and decoration. Jacquards boast cloqué effects and 3D reliefs. Precisely crafted triple layers are enlivened with fancy yarns. The nuances and lustre of Lurex set off the evening wear collections. The weaver targets unique developments via cut -yarns and quiltings with opaque or shiny aspects.

In prints, the grounds are technical and structured, with transparent membranes, tri-acetate aspects, double weaves.

The contrast between motifs and their grounds (taffeta, velvet and duchesse) are accentuated.

The range of plains includes silks, heavy plain weaves and fluid viscose cady’s and satins. For scarves, contrasting colours are inserted in woollen grounds with a soft feel.

Motifs feature simple designs, geometric shapes and Scotch plaids.

G R ATACO S

FABRICS

SILKS HOLD ON TO THEIR SHINE FOR WINTER The Gratacos collection keeps a vibrant, colourful flame alive for winter.

Sophisticated jacquards juxtapose modernised plains with an eye on originality.

For AW 1920, Spanish weaver Gratacos hasn’t closed the door on a certain extravagance. «The winter season is always a challenge for silks,» says Rosa Pujol, style director. «In the past we expanded in the direction of sports, but this time we’re focusing on a seductive appeal and bright fabrics.»

The «trans-seasonal» fabric range illustrates this stance. Colours are acidic and intense: orange, yellow, lilac, pink. Shine emerges in lamés and jacquards worked in fancy yarns.

Chenille yarns lend a vibration to surfaces.

In terms of motifs, floral and geometric patterns are nicely complemented by lively stripes and Tachist-inspired prints.

In higher-end products, evening-dress products feature mixed weaves and cutyarns so as to lighten precious jacquards.

On these dense grounds, quite light and soft to the touch, colours such as blue and orange have controlled vibrations. Structures in a tweed-spirit and reflections introduce stronger shades. Floral motifs predominate.

As a counterpoint, a more classic range of fabrics injects a touch of modern subtlety.

Jacquards are worked with a subdued approach to fantasy. The colour palette is calmed through dark colourways, white and greys. Floral motifs are lighter and more easily read.

«On the whole,» says Rosa Pujol, «this luminous collection offers a well thought out variety of products for a smart and flexible wardrobe.»

LY R I A

FABRICS

T E C H N O L O G Y AT T H E H E A R T O F E M O T I O N Italy’s Lyria furthers its avant-garde elaboration of textile compositions.

From satins to velvets, the most highly anticipated weaves are enhanced by finishings designed to reinvent the look and feel of fabrics.

Lyria further cultivates its taste for original fabric compositions with sensory handles and a blend of natural fibres for AW 2019/20. The developments steered by artistic director Riccardo Bruni embrace modernity while keeping an eye on the traditions of the past.

Familiar qualities for dresses and jackets will be part of the mix at Blossom Première Vision, while the array of compositions will be quite broad. Special attention has been paid to the feel of cottons and natural fibre blends incorporating cotton, wool, cashmere and mohair. A specialist in sophisticated finishings, Lyria announces the integration of new cold-dyeing and coating processes to update aspects and effects.

Renowned for its satins, Lyria unfurls a vast array of weaves this season, from jacquards to plain velvets, yarn-dyeds and piecedyeds. Proposed weights range from the lightest cottons to jacket qualities. The winter collection favours natural colourways, for a collection guided by emotion and a quest for perpetual motion.

TISSAGES PERRIN

FABRICS

A CHIC AND SENSUAL SWING Les Tissages Perrin pursues its passion for chic elegance and sensual fabrics. Their novel AW1920 pre-collection introduces sparkling and iridescent wovens in surprising wool blends. Textile novelties celebrate rhythm, exploiting a dizzying array of yarns and amusing pattern plays.

A spirited elegance is prevalent throughout this sophisticated fabric collection. The French weaver, famed for its couture silk chiffons, colourful double satins, fine gauzes and crepes, heralds a precious and jubilant fabric story for next winter.

There’s an intriguing emphasis on wool.

This natural fibre is masterly intertwined with delightful silks and effortless viscoses, adding new density and sensual warmth to the final fabric. Feeling chilly is out of the question! Understated metallic yarns are skilfully pulled into the mix, creating an ideal amount of sprinkle and sparkle, elevating textiles to the next level.

Pattern-wise, there are remarkable and lively updated stripes. These can emerge as fine lines, evenly spaced, delicately undulating or graduated. Graphic semi-plains are coordinated with the striped patterns, creating an exciting pattern combo.

Les Tissages Perrin’s AW1920 colour palette is elaborated around soft nuances. Neutral naturals, chic greyish tones and sensual pinks are strong. The colour scheme is energized by touches of surprisingly intense fuchsia and pine greens.

ALRAN

L E AT H E R

T R A D I T I O N A L A N D I N N O VAT I V E L E AT H E R S FROM ALRAN MÉGISSERIE Alran Mégisserie, located in the south of France’s Tarn region, has been honing its expertise since 1903. The company combines tradition and innovation to create responsible, superior-quality leather.

By working goat, calf and buffalo skins with passion and energy, this tannery produces articles for leather goods, upholstery, bookbinding, cases, footwear, orthopedics and more. With a strong cultural heritage spanning more than a century and a unique set of know-hows, the company is now investing for the future with its customary passion.

Specialists in hand-boarded Madras goatskin, Alran SAS also develops a range of smooth goat and calf skins, metallic, pearly and printed hides, suede goatskins and nubuck calf. It is also reviving vegetable tanning, regularly updating its vast array of leather handles and grains.

With technical resources and a modernised machine park, Alran SAS constantly develops new fabrications to serve a French and international clientele in search of innovation and specific items: drop-stop, two-tones, metalized, pearlised, pull-up, etc.

Customer service and support, responsiveness, reliability and flexibility are the foundations of the tannery’s customer relations - as seen in the very moderate production minimums (20m² / colour lot) for any type of request. .

The result of its latest natural-dyeing research, the Natural Indigo Goat leather worked in a denim spirit is made from a natural pigment extracted from the indigo leaf.

BONAUDO

L E AT H E R

A N E W S E A S O N I N S P I R E D B Y N AT U R E For this new season, Bonaudo is more than ever committed to nature, making it the guest of honour in its designs. Thanks to improved production techniques, the company is proposing ever-more environmentally friendly products.

The 3 tanneries of the Bonaudo group are specialized in the high-quality tanning of calf, baby calf, kangaroo, deer, lamb and goat skins. Uncompromising in terms of the quality of their raw materials, promoting from one generation to the next a set of unique know-hows, and investing in innovative, latest-generation machinery, Bonaudo presents an offer of luxurious and creative materials.

More than 6,000 colours are proposed each year, and the array of proposed articles ranges from fancy leathers to the most classic and most luxurious materials.

Sustainable development and an attention to the environment are the pillars of the tannery’s philosophy. The deep convictions of director Alessandro Iliprando have led the tannery to profoundly rethink itself over the past 10 years. Reducing water use, saving energy and using low-impact chemicals are among the top priorities. With a total dedication and commitment, the tannery meets today’s highest environmental and social standards, and international requirements.

This season, developments are partly oriented towards dark and sophisticated reflections, gilt effects washed out over time, and movements evoking the natural landscape. The company expresses a love for the imperfections that give the most luxurious items a true touch of authenticity.

MEGISSERIE RICHARD

L E AT H E R

H I G H - E N D L E AT H E R S C O M M I T T E D TO THE FUTURE OF THE PLANET The Mégisserie Richard makes it a point of honour to ensure the high quality of its leathers as well as a reduced environmental impact during the manufacturing process, while simultaneously proposing innovative creations each season.

The company is specialised in the manufacturing of high-end full aniline lambskin, and offers more than 60 colours, with a minimum order quantity of one skin.

The Mégisserie Richard works specifically on quality lambskins from a few select places such as Aveyron in France and Entrefinos in Spain. These skins are most often treated in a nappa - the famous Millau dipped lamb or sueded manner.

Since 2006, a new state-of-the-art production unit has been specifically designed to meet the latest environmental standards. All finishings are made without solvent, the raw material supply favours ultra-short circuits and innovative water treatment projects are underway.

Research is focused on mechanical grains, and natural or irregular grains usually not present on this kind of lamb skin. New developments also include « pearly shine» aspects.

LATEST FASHION NEWS «Flotteur grain»: lamb skin with a mechanical grain evoking the natural grain of deer hide, with the suppleness of lambskin.

Target market: shoes.

Socire: thicker lamb skin, with a covering finish, with enhanced resistance. Target market: sneakers.

Drummed grain: dry drummed lamb skin with a light grain dissimulating small piqué defects Perlato: Lamb with a lustrous pearl finish, with a subtle nacré effect. Elegant and chic, it is also more resistant. Use: leather goods.

SETTEBELLO CONCERIA

L E AT H E R

SETTEBELLO REINVENTS ITSELF TO MINIMIZE THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF ITS PRODUCTION Founded in 1957 in Santa Croce sull’Arno, the Settebello tannery produces chrome-tanned leather for luxury leather goods and footwear. It is one of the pioneers in improving leather production and its environmental impact.

Careful production planning, effective management control in terms of product monitoring and traceability, a respect for delivery times and careful attention to details are extremely valuable guarantees for the customer.

The Settebello tannery is driven by the belief that a respect for the environment is a necessity for those wanting to start a business. That’s why it was the first company in this activity sector to obtain important recognitions, such as a UNI EN ISO 9000: 2001 quality certification (in 1998 with certificate N. 41), environmental certification UNI EN ISO 14001/96 (in 2002 with certificate N. 13) and the most recent certification - EMAS - obtained in 2007, only the third company in Italy to do so.

The tannery, which was rebuilt in 2006 with consultation assistance provided by professional technicians, now features highly modern production systems that, thanks to a co-generator, save significant energy.

The conviction of the Settebello tannery is that every sustained investment be directed to the creation of a product of consistent quality, all the while respecting the environment.

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