Portrait of Portland Volume 30

H O M E

G A R D E N

T R A V E L

A N D

L I F E S T Y L E

M A G A Z I N E

Portrait OF PORTLAND TM

HUNTING THE GREAT

Oregon Truffle CHEFS FAVORITE RECIPES

Dundee Hills

WINES Tasting notes for 50 current releases

PortraitMagazine.com

$5.95 US

Interior Design

Great Finds!

Classic Updates

At Home with Benjamin Silver

The Latest in Home Decor

Inspired Design + Remodels

503.281.1404

odonnellgrouprealty.com

1221 NW Everett, Portland, OR

STOP DREAMING AND START COOKING

Each day, craftsmen tied individual knots.

Thousands and thousands of them. Each with the precision that years of weaving experience offers.

A rug? Yes, it’s a rug.

And much, much more.

S.W. Sequoia & Bonita Road in Tigard 503.639.8642 / Atiyehbros.com CCB#3590

RUGS & WALL-TO-WALL CARPETING TRADITIONAL • MODERN • UPDATED CLASSICS

©stickley•photo•graphic

Classic Renovation

The Olson & Jones experience is really about two things: honesty and caring. Our clients mean the world to us and it shows. We listen to what you want and then dedicate all our energy and talent to making your remodeling experience the very best. Every time.

olsonandjones.com l 503.244.7467 ORCCB#54065 WA#602218244

MAKE YOUR HOME A WINTER WARMERLAND GET UP TO $550 CASH BACK WHEN YOU INSTALL AN ENERGY-EFFICIENT GAS FIREPLACE NOW Make your home a dream come true this winter. Energy Trust of Oregon is offering up to $300 additional cash back when you install a qualifying high-efficiency gas fireplace. That’s on top of the regular $250 cash incentive Energy Trust already offers.

+

To learn more, visit www.energytrust.org/warm or call 1.866.368.7878.

Serving customers of Portland General Electric, Pacific Power, NW Natural and Cascade Natural Gas.

contents

VOLUME 30

Home + Garden 21 Eye on Design What’s on trend in the design world?

Look for the latest colors, home furnishings and accessories on our new design boards. We’ll inspire you to create the home you love.

37 A Dash of Drama Learn how to create the perfect bouquet for the moody days of winter with the dark tones of copper beech, black queen anne’s lace and ebony dahlias. Erin Benzakein of Floret Flowers in Skagit Valley, Washington provides inspiration.

40 French Fare

46 21

60

Portland designer Jason Ball blends classic European style with modern élan in a timeless new McMinnville kitchen.

46 Border Crossing Portland-based designer Joelle Nesen is invited to the sunny climes of Rancho Santa Fe to create a desert masterpiece for her longtime Pacific Northwest clients. She masterfully blends the husband’s modern tastes with the wife’s traditional style in this stunning Mediterranean Revival home.

60 Past Perfected London native interior designer Benjamin Silver transforms his 1930s Brookman Herman home from a traditional estate in Portland’s West Hills to an elegant and airy showplace for antiques and contemporary furnishings.

12

PortraitMagazine.com

Photo Michel Gibert. With thanks to: Architecte Juan Antonio Sánchez Morales, www.adhocmsl.com. *Conditions apply, ask your store for more details.

Manufactured in Europe.

Mah Jong modular sofa system dressed by Jean Paul Gaultier, design Hans Hopfer Mythique rug, design Jean Paul Gaultier for Roche Bobois AVENTURA, FL OPENING SOON - ATLANTA - BOSTON - CHICAGO - COLUMBUS, OH - CORAL GABLES, FL - COSTA MESA, CA - DALLAS DENVER - HOUSTON - LA JOLLA, CA - LOS ANGELES - MANHASSET, NY - NATICK, MA - NEW YORK, 35 TH ST - NEW YORK, 57 TH ST PALM BEACH, FL - PHILADELPHIA - SAN FRANCISCO - SAN JUAN, PR - SCOTTSDALE - SEATTLE - TROY, MI - WASHINGTON, DC NOW OPEN IN PORTLAND – 1025 SW Washington Street - Tel. (503) 459-0020 - portland@roche-bobois.com

Showrooms, collections, news and catalogs www.roche-bobois.com

contents

VOLUME 30

Travel + Lifestyle

37

119

72

102

Recipe Index

All in the Details

Wine Tasting Notes

113

Lake Oswego homeowner Ali Afghan brings on a winning team to build a new Mediterranean Northwest home near the city’s downtown. Portland designer Wendy O’Brien and Pacific City builder Howard Goodman collaborate to create a luxurious residence with warm sophistication.

Aromas of blackberry, cloves and forest floor humus are just a few of the flavors Cole Danehower finds during his tastings of Dundee Hills wineries. Read his distinct tasting notes on 50 current releases from Dundee Hills, and select a bottle for your next special occasion.

Angel Hair Pasta with Maine Lobster Truffle Sauce

115

Oeufs Brouillés à la Truffe

119

Truffled Crab Melt

119

Buckwheat Crepes Stuffed with Turnips and Truffles

83

108

122

Exclusive Interview: Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams

Hunting the Great Oregon Truffle

Truffled Hen Leg with Leeks, Spaghettini, Black Pepper and Truffle Butter

Comfort and beauty are never at odds in home furnishings from Mitchell Gold and Bob Williams. We talk with these top furniture designers about their 20-year partnership in style and business.

89

Heart and Soul of Dundee Hills The ancient soils and sheltered slopes of Oregon's Dundee Hills give rise to an elegant wine appellation and new world acclaim. Join esteemed wine writer Cole Danehower for a delightful tour of this unique region's natural wonders and artisan winemakers.

14

83

PortraitMagazine.com

Hidden beneath Oregon’s rich Douglas fir forests lies a culinary treasure elusive to most who seek it – the Oregon truffle. Join chefs Oregon Christopher Czarnecki and Vitaly Paley as they venture into the woods of the Willamette Valley in search of the great Oregon Truffle!

123 Oregon Truffle Festival In January, foodies and mushroom connoisseurs will travel to the Oregon Truffle Festival in Eugene to attend guided forays, gourmet mushroom meals, and truffling seminars. Learn more about this week-long celebration.

on the cover Jacques Tardy of Torii Mor is a fifth-generation winemaker from Burgundy. He trained at the prestigious Lycee Viticole de Beaune, and came to Oregon to make world-class pinot noir.

Shown here during the 2014 crush.

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

PUBLISHER Claudia M. Brown EDITOR/SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Kiki Meletis ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER Laura Baughman CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ADMITTEDLY, THE IDEA OF FORAGING FOR TRUFFLES IS QUITE INTRIGUING. Who wouldn’t

Stephanie Boyle Mays Kerry Newberry

love the quest for an exotic ingredient prized by chefs

Donna Pizzi

throughout the world? Turns out Oregon has a remarkable environment to grow truffles. They thrive near

PHOTOGRAPHERS

the roots of Douglas fir trees (our state tree), so one

Jeff Freeman

needn’t look much further than our forests and tree

Greg Kozawa

farms on private properties. Think of it as the more modern “gold” as perfectly ripe

Karyn Millet

Oregon truffles can command up to $560/pound at the market. Top chefs all have their

John Valls

connections when the season hits. We followed Chef Vitaly Paley (Paley’s Place) and Chef Chris Czarnecki (Joel Palmer House) into Chris’s favorite forest for a weekend hunt. In the spirit of the Oregon Truffle Festival, which expands into Yamhill wine country and Portland in 2015, both chefs, along with Chef Jason French (Ned Ludd) share some of their prized

PUBLISHED BY

truffle recipes and cooking tips. One taste and you’ll be hooked.

Portrait™ Publications

Dundee Hills AVA, first planted in 1964, long ago evolved into one of the finest pinot noir

Portland, Oregon 97207-9097

regions in the world. Cole Danehower gives us the region’s back story and puts a spotlight

Phone 503.203.1373

on new winemaker talents garnering attention along with the heavy hitters we’ve all come to love. Cole also details personal Tasting Notes for 50 current releases from Dundee Hills, complete with prices, to help you stock your cellar.

PO Box 9097

Fax 503.241.0383 email: claudia@PortraitMagazine.com www.PortraitMagazine.com

For design inspiration, we visit designer Benjamin Silver as he puts finishing touches

SUBSCRIPTIONS

on the complete renovation of his own home, originally built in the 1930s by Herman

Save 66%

Brookman. Designer Joelle Nesen’s Portland clients moved to Rancho Santa Fe in southern

(Only $2 per issue)

California and gave her free rein to transform their 1997 estate. Designer Wendy O’Brien teamed with builder Howard Goodman on a luxurious Mediterranean Northwest home

4 issues

$8

8 issues

$16

12 issues $24

in Lake Oswego. Enjoy the issue!

SUBSCRIBE ONLINE PortraitMagazine.com or mail check payable to: Portrait Publications PO Box 9097 Portland, OR 97207-9097

Claudia M. Brown Publisher claudia@PortraitMagazine.com

16

PortraitMagazine.com

© 2014/2015 Portrait™ Publications.

Claudia Brown +Company, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written permission. Every effort has been made to ensure the information in this publication is current and correct. However, conditions beyond our control may change the accuracy over time.

Subscribe Online

PortraitMagazine.com

me i T d e t Limi FER! OF Subscriptions 4 issues $8 8 issues $16 12 issues $24

Subscribe Today.

Celebrating 20 years of publishing, Portraitâ„¢ magazine showcases the latest in home, garden, travel and lifestyle at your fingertips.

SUBSCRIBE BY MAIL Make check payable to Portrait Magazine PO Box 9097 Portland, OR 97207-9097

H O M E H O M E

G A R D E N

T R A V E L

A N D

L I F E S T Y L E

M A G A Z I N E

TM

H O M E

G A R D E N

T R A V E L

A N D

L I F E S T Y L E

M A G A Z I N E

Portrait TM

H O M E

G A R D E N

T R A V E L

per

SUBSCRIBE ONLINE PortraitMagazine.com

Subscribe to our print edition and receive exclusive access to our online archive of 1000s of design ideas, recipes, travel destinations, top designers and remodeling projects.

Portrait

$ y l on issu2 e

A N D

L I F E S T Y L E

M A G A Z I N E

Portrait TM

Portrait

G A R D E N

T R A V E L

A N D

L I F E S T Y L E

M A G A Z I N E

Portrait TM

H O M E

G A R D E N

T R A V E L

A N D

CENTRAL OREGON

Where to Eat, Play & Relax

NEW! STYLE GUIDE

BARBARA BARRY

savvy fashion buys local design trends

Exclusive Interview

70

SPECIAL GARDEN ISSUE

pages of

INSPIRATIONAL DESIGNER KITCHENS!

DESIGN

INSPIRING STYLE + HOME REMODELS

GLAMOROUS LOFTS!

RESTART YOUR STYLE HOT LOCAL FINDS

OREGON WINE COUNTRY

pages of

PROS SHARE THEIR STYLE: Furnishings, art + color

86

pages of

INSPIRING DESIGN + HOT KITCHEN REMODELS At Home With Terry Porter HAMPTON STYLE

COMES TO THE WEST www.PortraitMagazine.com

JORY INTERVIEW WITH SUNNY JIN + RECIPES WWW.PORTRAITMAGAZINE.COM

94

pages of

HOME REMODELS+ DECORATING IDEAS

At home with designer

KATHY NIEMI

At Home With Thomas Paine IN THE KITCHEN WITH CHEF PASCAL CHUREAU

DREAM PROJECTS Advice from the experts

IN THE GARDEN WITH SUSAN BATES

M A G A Z I N E

TM

STYLISH INTERIOR

87

L I F E S T Y L E

Portrait

TM

CHIC COLOR TRENDS

76

pages of

STYLISH INTERIOR

DESIGN

78

pages of design

INSPIRATION

LOVE YOUR KITCHEN AGAIN Creating exquisite kitchen and vanity countertops since 1995

exceptional service, quality craftsmanship, on-time delivery Locally owned and operated by Paul and Carol Lundgren Visit our showroom, or send us your plans for a FREE estimate. fax: 503.287.6431 or email: carol@infinitycountertops.com hours: Mon-Fri 7:30-4 or by appointment

SHOWROOM

infinity

countertops

7805 NE Halsey Street • Portland, OR 97213 • Phone 503.287.6877 • www.infinitycountertops.com

ORCCB #203957 WA#Infinici884pz

gifts for living gifts for giving

Follow us on

bellacasa.net

design services | furniture | rugs | lamps & lighting | gifts

Visit the NEW Bella Casa in the Pearl District 223 NW 9th Ave and Evere St. Portland, OR 97209

503-222-5337

A striking mix of materials, forms and textures provides the basis for a wellcomposed, timeless room. Shown: The Minna Table features an hourglass form of stacked rattan coils, held together by rawhide x-bindings. Both structural and graphic, this table makes a statement no matter where it lives. The Alameda Dining Chairs are crafted by wrapping rawhide around a rattan frame. All from McGuire, available at www.parker-furniture.com

EYE ON DESIGN

An elevated take on the rustic antler trend, the Haywood Wall Sconce is finished in a luxe Silver Granello.

Available through www.bellacasa.net

1

V

Penny Lane

In Malene Birger’s newest book, Move and Work, this selfproclaimed nomad, who searches around the world for inspiration, grants an exciting insight into her three homes that amaze with their limitless wealth of design ideas.

2

3

V Offering great versatility, the Lasalle Bar features a raised diamond-parquet pattern and distinctive wood-andbrass pulls. At www.mgbwhome.com

1) The perfect punctuation mark to a lavish room. Charlotte Chandelier’s three graduated circles draped with vintage silver chain. Available through www.bellacasa.net 2) Boldly scaled organic shapes of hand-spun wool and silk are artfully hand-knotted in 100-line Tibetan construction. Subtle gradations of neutral color give the visual texture of a work of art. Available at Atiyeh Bros. www.atiyehbros.com 3) Use fabrics to tie your rooms together.

Shown top to bottom (all by Duralee): Pattern Name: CHOPIN, PERSIMMON Book #4240 - Mountain Side: Made in Italy, Classics Collection; Pattern #:190220H-38 Pattern Name: SALINGER, RUSSETT Book #4240 - Mountain Side: Classics Collection 100% wool; Pattern #:36268-296 Color Name: PEWTER Book #2967: Brookhaven Cut Velvet Collection. Available through www.millendstore.com 4) The straight lines and endless configurations of the Bridge sofa offer versatile design. Available at www.ubhip.com

4

22

PortraitMagazine.com

Designer Pick Arbrashed wool adds subtle depth and color to soft sophisticated patterns. Hand knotted by skilled artisans this is a rug for generations.

100% Handcarded Wool, Red Orange & Pumpkin. Available at Atiyeh Bros. www.atiyehbros.com.

PortraitMagazine.com

23

Flores Design Memphis Curved Sectional

Custom Furniture You Want Prices You’ll Love Browse our large selection online or visit our store.

Design services available.

908 NW 23rd Ave. Portland, OR 97210 (503) 546-5468

portlandfurnitureonline.com

0,//:25.

GIULIETTI / SCHOUTEN

A R C H I T E C T S

503-223-0325 WWW.GSARCHITECTS.NET

MAISON INC 1611 nw northrup

portland

S E E I N T E R I O R

503.295.0151

A

F U L L

D E S I G N

maisoninc.com

P O R T F O L I O

AT

M A I S O N I N C . C O M

get the look I PARED DOWN

The flat wide pan shaped aluminum Geri Pendant with a flared edge showcases its hand hammered detailing and antique brass finish. Through www.bellacasa.net

1) The Jonathan Adler Mrs. Godfrey settee pairs retro style with contemporary cool. Atop mod maple legs, its custom upholstered seat accepts classic influence with tufted detailing. www.jonathanadler.com 2) Nature-inspired cast twig Enchanted Forest Candleholders in oxidized copper finish. Available through Please Be Seated www.pleasebseatedpdx.com 3) Paddywax signature triple-milled shea butter and olive oil soap scented with Mediterranean Rosemary & Citrus; Amber & Smoke Travel Tin. www.porchlightshop.com 4) Interior designer Nancy Braithwaite’s long-awaited first book, Simplicity (Rizzoli) is a striking tutorial in the power of simplicity in design. 5) Light, cozy and lusciously soft, the Ikat Cashmere Throw, jacquard-woven. At www.williams-sonoma.com 4) Roche Bobois PARISIENNE table with solid linden legs and classic parquet top. Through www.roche-bobois.com

2 1

5

4

3

6

Pared Down

Simplicity can be powerful. Commanding scale, repetition of elements, subtleties of color and the beauty of forms can create a statement of luxury that is harmonious and graceful. Done thoughtfully, an edited mix becomes highly individual and can include everything from collected artwork to custom-made furniture.

PortraitMagazine.com

27

Fine-grained wood meets industrial form in the Correspondance Bedroom suite from Roche Bobois. The perfect complement for an urban loft or brick-laiden getaway, this European ensemble is subdued elegance at its best. Shown: The Correspondance bed in solid beech and veneer on slatted woods with large cherry panels, all in mortise and tenon joinery. Also available are 1 and 2 drawer night chests, 3 drawer chest, 1 drawer night trunk and bench. All from the Nouveaux Classiques collection at www.roche-bobois.com.

28

PortraitMagazine.com

get the look I URBAN COWBOY

1) A little rustic and a little casual, the McIntyre Chandelier’s flat pentagon frame, wrapped cords with jute and detailed with hand-tied knots at the top and bottom. Through www.bellacasa.net 2) Loomed from luxe, thickly spun linen yarns, Restoration Hardware’s Vintage Linen Throw has heirloom appeal. www.restorationhardware.com 3) Palecek Pippin Strapped Stool, upholstered in lush gray suede with cowhide leather trim. www.bellacsa.net 4) Celebrating their long heritage of Sisters Rodeo, a seasonal medium roast coffee with a great strong taste. Available at www.sisterscoffee.com 5) A luxurious finishing touch for cooler days in every season, Cashmere Infinity Scarf in charcoal. Available through www.restorationhardware.com

1

4 Handcrafted from a shed reindeer antler, the Horned Beauty Bottle Opener. Available through www.anthropologie.com

2 3

5

Urban Cowboy

Woven in American mills, Pendleton’s 100% pure virgin wool Thomas Kay lambswool throw, shown in peat moss. Available at www.pendleton-usa.com

Taking cues from the Western lifestyle and trending industrial design, we’ve gathered an inspired collection of warmly weathered pieces for a laid-back look. Think cushy leather club chairs, a roaring fire and a cup of cowboy coffee to add Western warmth and just a nod of cowboy.

PortraitMagazine.com

29

Designer Pick Exceptionally fresh and lively, the Cole Ivory rug is ideal for both contemporary and transitional settings.

Hand constructed in wool and available in five sizes, the Ikat-inspired design is perfect for making a bold and wordly statement underfoot.

Available at www.atiyehbros.com

Devine Color – Skyline Silver Skies Collection

Winter Light

1) Made from stout wrought iron with a dynamic blacksmith finish, the Dundee Pendant by Currey and Company is striking hung alone or in a grouping. Found at Bella Casa www.bellacasa.net 2) An ombre white wash finish is applied to the wood base of the Harbor Wood Stool.

Finished with a flat metal top for an industrial note.

Available at www.pleasebeseatedpdx.com 3) Sculpture meets utility in the delightful iron Maddy Vase from Arteriors. The porcupine inspiration is brought to life with 100 rods inserted through the surface then brushed with brass at the tips. Available at www.bellacasa.net 4) The Pierce 3 Drawer Gray Chest by Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams is dressed up with vertical handles finished in antique brass and just a touch of curve to the leg. Found at www.mgbwhome.com 5) Gather multiple Zeke Dining Chairs for dinner parties or use one as a special statement piece. Through www.zentique.com 6) Bring winter indoors with decorator fabrics from Duralee. Patterns City Chick, Mineral, Book #2961 (left) and Painterly Stripe, Blue/Brown, Pattern #200004H - 108 (right) will inspire you to stay inside. Found at Mill End Store www.millendstore.com

1

4

5

Sheer Ice OW111 Rodda Paint

3

2

Devine Color Silver Skies Collection Silver The Dexter Coffee Table has a sculptural shape and is detailed with an oval, faux-shagreen top.

Available at www.madegoods.com

6

V

V Ward off winter’s chill with the Mara Pillow. Blurred stripes and casual style are perfect for layering. Through www.dwellstudio.com

PortraitMagazine.com

31

50 Shades...

1

Gray’s understated side of the color palette, possesses a surprising amount of nuance.

1) Eight translucent smoked glass globes hang from the vintage silver ring of the Kamala Chandelier. At www.bellacasa.net 2) London,

by Reuel Golden, takes the reader on a photographic journey through the history of this epic city. 3) Lounging about the Scandinavian way – light and classical, the Plano sofa.

Available through www.ubhip.com 4) This fabulous 68-inch French Bateau tub from Penhaglion with highly polished mirror finished stainless steel exterior. Through Chown

2

3 BRIO lounge armchair designed by Sacha Lakic for Roche Bobois, Collection Les Conteporains.

At www.roche-bobois.com

4

The perfect shade of gray, the Troy 100% cotton throw is Pantone TPX color matched: Charcoal(18-4005), Ivory (11-0701),Light Gray(16-4402). www.portlandfurnitureonline.com

32

PortraitMagazine.com

workshop I COLOR TRENDS

With ever-changing interior trends, Devine Almond can make reds, purples and blues look refreshed. It is also a warmer option to all the cool grays, whites and charcoals that are trendy today.

What color would you pick?

0 Devine Almond

Gretchen Schauffler, founder and creative director of Devine Color

Featured: Lillian August for Hickory White Grant Table and Quinn Chair.

Available at Bella Casa, bellacasa.net

HOW-TO USE A COLOR CARD

*

What do you do when your chic new Belgian linen dining

Second, don’t worry about colors being too light, dark,

chairs you loved in the store look green when you combine

matching, belonging, being right or popular. Instead, look

them with the other furnishings in your room? Rather than

for colors that stand out to you as beautiful, gorgeous,

remorse over the chairs, try a Devine Paint Discovery Card.

lovely and amazing with what you see through the cutout.

To start, look through the Paint Discovery Card window at the natural surfaces in your home such as wood, stone, tile, fabrics and art. Then look for the Devine Colors on the

34

PortraitMagazine.com

It’s not about a perfect match. Color relationships that allow for complement, as well as contrast, end up making what we love more exciting and interesting for years to come.

frame that connect with these things, because they will be

As you look closer, the shade that works best will practically

staying with you, not the paint that’s already on the wall.

pop off the card. It's almost as if the color chooses you!

bookshelf

l

INSPIRED HOME

Current obsessions

Victoria Hagan: Interior Portraits

by Marianne Hagan (Rizzoli)

Lifting the Curtain on Design

by Vicente Wolf (Random House)

Wolf is famous for his modern and elegant style, always guided by integrity and simplicity. Lifting the Curtain on Design delves into his selected themes from myriad viewpoints: through the prism of international travel, via the detailed focus on a single project, and finally by means of the sweeping perspective of a seasoned design mind.

In a step-by-step account of two recent interiors—a traditional apartment and an open loft— Wolf describes his initial design process, the various phases of construction, the expert selection of color palettes and furniture, and the final installation of art and decorative objects. He also explains the development of the dramatic tablescapes for which he is so well known, which balance style, form, and color with humor and ease. Lifting the Curtain on Design offers a glimpse into the mind of the designer at work, from inspiration through implementation to unforgettable finished room.

Renowned for her intelligent integration of architectural and interior design, her refined use of materials, her sophisticated color palette, and her strong silhouettes. Always looking to the view, Hagan effortlessly makes a close connection of interior spaces to the surrounding landscape. The houses profiled—ranging from elegant urban residences to casual weekend retreats—reveal Hagan’s unerring attention to what Proust called "the unexpected detail," which makes her interiors beautiful as well as timeless.

Sandra Nunnerley: Interiors

by Sandra Nunnerley (powerHouse Books)

Interiors lavishly chronicles Nunnerley's design vision, as expressed through exquisite projects. Sumptuous photography thematically organized in chapters on Serenity, Individuality, Refinement, Glamour, and more, the book documents how a wide variety of inspirations, including her globe-spanning travels, have influenced Nunnerley's work and how she thinks about design, suggesting how we might also look at the world around us to arrive at our own design.

FOR A DASH OF DRAMA GO FOR

DARK

This moody bouquet includes: grapes, coleus, amaranth, dahlias ‘Bracken Rose’, ‘Twilight’ and ‘Crossfield Ebony’, black queen anne’s lace, scabiosa, basil, copper beech, black elderberries, lisianthus, scented geranium ‘Chocolate’, wheat, nine bark ‘Coppertina’ and thornless blackberries FLORAL DESIGN

Erin Benzakein, Floret Flowers

PortraitMagazine.com

37

AAA 4-Diamond award

Romance & Leisure F I N D I T AT W H A L E C O V E I N N

www.whalecoveinn.com 2345 S. Highway 101, Depoe Bay, OR RESERVATIONS 800.628.3409

WHALE COVE INN

workbook I FLOWER RECIPE

9 8 3 15 14 12

13

7

2 1

5 12

10

4 6

11

SEE MORE FLORAL DESIGN AT PORTRAITMAGAZINE.COM/ FLOWERS

Like color, unexpected elements can change the seasonality of a bouquet. Dahlias, a late summer standard, is perfect for winter when paired with black queen anne’s lace, black elderberries, and wheat. www.floretflowers.com

[1] grapes

[6] dahlia ‘Crossfield Ebony’

[12] lisianthus

[2] coleus

[7] black queen anne’s lace

[13] scented geranium ‘Chocolate’

[3] amaranth

[8] scabiosa

[14] wheat

[4] dahlia ‘Bracken Rose’

[9] basil

[15] nine bark ‘Coppertina’

[5] dahlia ‘Twilight’

[10] copper beech

[16] thornless blackberry

[11] black elderberry

PortraitMagazine.com

39

French fare

WRITTEN BY Stephanie Boyle Mays PHOTOGRAPHED BY

John Valls

The homeowners asked for a comfortable, functional and timeless European-inspired kitchen with modern touches in which they could cook and entertain for at least the next twenty years. Designer Jason Ball achieved their design goals by strategically placing classically styled cabinets along the walls, featuring a furniture-like center island and using modern stainless steel appliances and other metal finishes.

When Peggy and Stuart Jacobson, a former personal chef and sculptor respectively, built their McMinnville home, they shortchanged themselves on the kitchen. “You’re building a house; you start thinking about all the money you’re spending,” explained Peggy, “and you just start cutting back.” But after twenty years, they decided it was time for something better. “And while it used to just be me in the kitchen,” she added, “my husband started cooking with me. We needed a space where we could work together.”

Charged with blending classic European style with a modern élan, Jason Ball of Jason Ball Interiors in Portland, created the comfortable and functional room for cooking and entertaining that the couple wanted.

Traditionally styled French gray cabinets wrap the room’s perimeter.

Wall ovens by Electrolux, a microwave by Sharp and a Wolfe induction cook top are placed to promote workflow. “We don’t have gas out here,” explained Peggy, “and I am very, very happy with the cooktop.”

Drawers and pullouts hold spices, condiments, and pots and pans near the appliance where they are most likely to be needed.

“We used marble for the counters,” said Peggy. “A lot of my husband’s sculptor friends said it would be difficult to maintain, but we chose a honed surface, and it’s been really beautiful.” Hexagon Carrara marble tiles on the backsplash complement the Calacatta bianco marble of the counters.

The star of the kitchen is the center island. “We wanted the island to resemble furniture and bring the look of age in to the room,” said Ball.

Built from oak sustainably harvested in Amity, Oregon, the island was subjected to sandblasting and a wire brush technique to give the wood grain and depth before being sealed with a clear coat. “The natural wood color also brings an organic dimension to the room, which speaks for itself against the dark floor,” Ball added.

Metal stools from Design Within Reach contrast with other design elements. “The modern stools and traditional cabinets create a little bit of conflict which adds interest to the design,” said Ball. Use of metal is repeated in the cabinet hardware and faucet and in the lighting fixtures from Visual Comfort above the island and the farmhouse sink.

Finishing touches were brought into the room by a rug and kitchen linens from Stuart’s boyhood home. “I found the tea towels when we were closing my mother-in-law’s house,” said Peggy, “and asked Much like a chef stages ingredients with mise en place at the ready, pots, pans and other kitchen equipment were measured and assigned to specific drawers in the center island to ensure that everything had its place. Built from sustainably harvested oak, the island also provides a gathering space where the homeowners and guests can mix and mingle. Pendants shed ample light while their metallic finish is echoed around the room in the cabinet hardware, appliances, sink fixture and open shelving.

42

PortraitMagazine.com

Jason to include them in the kitchen.” Ball responded by piecing the linens in a chevron pattern to create the fabric used in the valance above the sink.

“It makes the whole kitchen feel personal and brings their history into the room,” said Ball.

PROJECT SOURCES DESIGNER Jason Ball Interiors www.jasonballinteriors.com

HARDWARE Chown Hardware www.chown.com

CONTRACTOR Cellar Ridge Construction www.cellarridge.com

Wolfe, Electrolux, Sharp Ferguson www.ferguson.com

Visit our 27,000 sq ft Warehouse Worldwide Purveyors of Unique Stones

•

MARBLE

•

SOAPSTONE

•

ONYX

•

GRANITE

•

HALF SLABS

Oregon’s countertop headquarters with the region’s largest selection of half slabs for vanities

TUALATIN SHOWROOM 19723 SW Teton Avenue 503.692.8020

Authorized Reseller

MEDFORD SHOWROOM 3130 Crater Lake Avenue 541.779.8020 Mon – Fri 8 – 5 Sat 10 –3, or by appointment

WWW.ELEMAROREGON.COM

Quality Products at Every Price Level Decorative Plumbing Door Hardware Steam/Bathtubs Lighting Bath Accessories Bathroom Cabinets Cabinet Hardware

333 N.W. 16th Ave. Portland, OR

800-452-7634

12001 N.E. 12th St. Bellevue, WA

800-574-4312

www.chown.com

get the look I FRENCH KITCHEN

Cuisine Française A welcome daydream for Francophiles: a modern French bistro-inspired kitchen!

Large or small, French inspired kitchens have so much going for them — from the white marble tiles and countertops, to herbaceous soaps, imported linens and of course a well-worn work table (ready for prepping your next galette)! This interplay of pattern and texture against clean, white surfaces, plus all the smaller details and genial touches of color create a dream kitchen!

Axor Montreux kitchen faucet with lever handles, bridge model with sidespray by Hansgrohe.

Available through chownhardware.com

Viking’s new French-Door Double Wall Oven. Available at BASCO www.bascoappliances.com Le Jacquard Francais Marche aux Legumes Towel is 100% cotton woven damask.

This towel pays homage to the farmer's markets of France.

At www.pleasebeseatedpdx.com Spring’s Eden Cucumber Water bar soap: fresh cucumber is infused with bergamot, mimosa leaves, blackcurrant and water lily. Available at www.anthropologie.com An incredibly rare blue background with dramatic white, grey and black veining, Blue Dolomite is a rare and lovely stone that provides a depth of color and character that is both singular and striking. Available at www.annsacks.com Currey and Company Sullivans work table has a contemporary galvanized top paired with a more traditional base with soft wood tones. Six drawers and underneath storage provide plenty of space for kitchen items. Available through www.bedfordbrown.com

PortraitMagazine.com

45

Joelle Nesen of Maison, Inc. transformed this 1997 So Cal estate built by home designers Bob and Jeff Holcombe for her long term Pacific Northwest clients. Her challenge was to marry their individual tastes into one harmonious vision for Southern California living. A pair of lofting olive trees embrace the entrance, where oversized antique Spanish wooden doors, guarded by a pair of antique bronze Cambodian Foo Dogs, purchased when the couple were married in Cambodia, open up a whole new world for the Northwest couple.

BORDER CROSSING WRITTEN BY Donna Pizzi PHOTOGRAPHED BY Karyn Millet

IN HISTORIC RANCHO SANTA FE, “This where thousands of eucalyptus trees sway in near tropical breezes (a failed attempt by the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway to grow a crop of hardwood suitable for railroad ties), life travels at a very idyllic speed. Given in a Mexican land grant in 1841

by Governor Pico of Alta California, to Juan Osuna, the first Mayor of the Pueblo of San Diego, the land did not become a network of exclusive country estates until 1922, when the likes of such Hollywood icons as Douglas Fairbanks, Jr. and his wife Mary Pickford, began to flock there to get away from their fans. Fairbanks christened his land “Rancho Zorro” after the movie “The Mark of Zorro,” which he was filming when he discovered this piece of paradise.

Equally as enchanted by this peaceful enclave, Portland, Oregon principal designer Joelle Nesen of Maison, Inc. had to cross physical, spatial and architectural borders to transition her former Pacific Northwest clients from the husband’s übermodern bachelor's pad overlooking the Willamette River to this laid-back, Mediterranean Revival abode in the sunny climes of Rancho Santa Fe. The challenge was to blend the husband’s taste with the wife’s warmer, classically understated style without compromising either aesthetic.

“Joelle knows me so well. She understood the importance of creating a relaxed environment that was a strong reflection of both of our personal styles while honoring the Spanish Colonial architecture,” says the wife.

“The wife is a native Oregonian with a very relaxed but elegant style - very traditional, contemporary Santa Barbara horse ranch look. Her husband, who has a good eye and a strong opinion, likes a more stark, dramatic, masculine style, utilizing his large art and crystal collection,” says Joelle.

“We’ve blended all those things, which, like the large crystal in the living room, seem to glow in their new environment.”

When the couple purchased the home, the interiors were done in a heavier traditional mode embellished with faux finishes, pooling drapes and bright colors that ranged from brilliant yellow kitchen walls studded with chickens to a burnished burgundy wood kitchen island.

48

PortraitMagazine.com

A trio of wrought iron pieces: the custom birdcage lanterns by Gearhart Ironwerks of Oregon, iron travertine coffee table and newly installed iron railing are modern touches that enhance the view when seated on the Restoration Hardware sofas.

Behind the wooden salvage door lies a wine butler that delivers bottles from the cellar below. Vintage McGuire director’s chairs are refurbished with outdoor leather, while Wicker Works swivel chairs done in a Schumacher fabric plays off sofa pillows done in Travers “Tazza”.

PortraitMagazine.com

49

A pair of custom Gearhart Ironwerks wagon wheel bronze chandeliers crown the kitchen and adjacent sitting room to bring a touch of old Hollywood to the area. Natural Cream cabinets play off a bronze farmhouse sink, and newly painted black walnut island. The owners' Norman Cherner c. 1958 chairs and Warren Platner table imported from their former home add panache. Jeff Holcombe created the beam that adorns the widened pass-through at right, which marries well with the new stone and stained walnut countertops.

“We left the bulk of the original structure,” explains Joelle, who visited the property a half-dozen times over the two-year-long project, including a week-long install. “We did add some modern touches, such as replacing the waist-high terrace walls with ironwork railings that both fit with the architecture, and open up the view to the mountains and down to the pool.”

“The view,” says the client, “was one of the things we loved about the property. Joelle walked in and immediately knew we should replace the stucco walls with iron railings.” During the two long weeks it took to jack hammer out the poured concrete walls, the couple had their doubts.

“When it was finished, we both said, ‘This was brilliant!’”

The work began slowly, allowing the couple time to adjust to the new lifestyle. “Once it began," says Joelle, who worked with Bob Holcombe’s son Jeff to coordinate some of the remodel, “it ramped up very quickly.” To provide both visual flow and pleasing contrast with the Douglas Fir beamed ceilings, Maison, Inc. chose a single wall paint color - Natural Cream by Benjamin Moore - for the open areas of the home, which

52

PortraitMagazine.com

A pair of Kravet New Direction Blanc fabric custom sofas face off before a coffee table with granite slab by Alpha Stoneworks. Arteriors floor lamps echo the graphic Clarence House pillows. The copper Odegard daybed upholstered in espresso mohair by Opuzen counters a pair or Ironies chairs in Edelman Russian leather and Robert Kuo white lacquer drum. An Ironware International chandelier graces the entry, with “Porter Teleo, Tangled Gris” framed wallcovering and vintage Maitland Smith mirror from 1stDibs®.

Dramatic chocolate brown walls enrobe the spacious master and sitting room. “I wanted to wrap the space in this sexy masculine color with lots of white furnishings and apricot curtains and bench,” says Joelle. The upholstered A. Rudin bed, and Michael Taylor marble side table in the seating area make lavish statement pieces. A McLean lantern “enlightens” Buddha upon a custom white oak stained ebony stand by Maison. Schumacher's Queen of Spain wallcovering adds graphic glory to the powder room, with Alpha Stoneworks counter and Gearhart Ironwerks stand.

54

PortraitMagazine.com

splay out along a single, long corridor. A handwoven rug by Merida crafted with Abaca fiber - a member of the banana family - grounds the peaceful living room, where splashes of chocolate brown reference both floor and ceiling.

“The whole house is very open," says Joelle, "not like a great room, but with large windows and elegant archways that open one room onto another.”

Touches of soft apricot are found in the entry, where a handmade Kush rug ties to Italian made Global Views pottery in the niches and the newly upholstered antique chairs from C’est la Vie in nearby Encinitas. In the library, where a large 5’ opening from the living room reveals soft apricot cashmere curtains and Randolph and Hein Dragon Scale pillows on the copper daybed, the color is also reiterated.

Designed as a warm weather home for Maison’s Pacific Northwest clients, the home required its fair share of areas for simple pleasures - reading, watching television, and, of course, enjoying the outdoors. One of the couple’s most treasured spots for these pastimes is the seating area off

PortraitMagazine.com

55

Richard Saba's “Lotus” adds a burst of color to the dining room. A twin wagon wheel chandelier to the one in the kitchen hangs in the adjacent sitting area. A Kravet rug echoes a blue wool cushion on the built-in hearthside cubby. A Michael S. Smith Cairo Alabaster Table lamp in the living room ties with a custom leather stool. The art reflected in the mirror is from Froelick Gallery in Portland.

the kitchen with its cozy fireplace that overlooks the now more open veranda, and out to the pool and the ivy-covered Spanish tiled roof of the so-called "Gator House" beyond, where the John Deere 4-wheel drive utility vehicles are stored.

The English arm chair design, fashioned after the husband’s favorite chair from his Northwest home (done here in China Seas fabric), is so comfortable that Maison had several made in varying fabrics for other spaces in this home. A flat screen TV rises above the built-in bench alongside the fireplace.

Bold mirrors located throughout the home catch and accentuate the presence of year-round light in nearly every room. A custom Lara Sydney mirror in the powder room, the grand Bedford Brown one in a corner of the living room, and the sumptuously carved vintage bronze Maitland Smith beauty that blossoms in the entry, add drama and presence to each room.

In the formal dining room, located between the kitchen and living room with views onto the veranda, a long narrow wooden table designed expressly for the area was purchased from the previous owners and paired with nail studded chairs from Ironies. Maison commissioned Emanuel Morez to design the contemporary chandelier. A trio of Spanish Mission style bells - an original Holcombe touch - hang in the open niche above and can be rung by a pulley to call guests to dinner.

Finding the right artwork to fill the home became a collaborative process. “The wife, a consummate shopper, who is super energetic and loves the whole decorating process,” says Joelle, “found this 1978 Richard Saba oil painting on 1stDibs® and bought it in New York for the dining room. I can't believe how beautifully it plays off the Morez chandelier and fits so perfectly in the space between a pair of arched doorways that lead to the living room.”

The back of the house presented some challenges for the couple and their landscape designer. “It’s difficult topography,” says Joelle, "and there is a huge elevation change

PortraitMagazine.com

57

An enclosed courtyard graced with potted plants from Tony Michael in Portland opens to the main hall and the master bedroom. Landscape designer Josh Soto 100-year-old olive trees and fruit trees in combination with native and mediterranean plantings to achieve the verdant garden. The swimming pool is bordered with flagstone pavers and Irish moss.

between the house and the wine cellar, where an underground sitting area is centered around the existing fireplace, to which we added furnishings and a light fixture.”

To assist in creating a visual step down to the landscaping, by Joshua Soto of The Landscape Guru, planter retaining walls were added alongside stairs at left and right. These areas were heavily planted with mature succulents in order to minimize any hardscape and keep the look timeless. "The only part I had in designing the pool,” says Joelle, “was to say that less is more, so the pool should appear like a slice of water in the grass – a vision the wife and I shared for a long time.”

“Century old olive trees and large agaves,” says the wife, “were handpicked to soften the edges and make the entire area feel as if it had been there forever.”

Restoration Hardware chaises and umbrellas line the patio with Trina Turk pillows from Kravet and garden stools by Maison.

“The original floor plan for this Hacienda style area, which is located off the master bedroom," says Joelle, "was called out as 'The Mexican Alley.” The 5’ wide hallway runs the length of building all the way down to the kitchen, where Morgie, the Tibetan Terrier, enjoys basking upon the original Saltillo tile by the Holcombes.”

The original blue paint that appears on some of the exterior doors remains today, along with a shuttered window that peeks out from the alley. A sentimental bonsai tree, very carefully shipped from Portland to Rancho Sante Fe, is displayed upon a copper table in the alleyway. Portland’s Tony + Michael, LLC, Spaces, Gathering & Ideas, planted the owners' baker's rack and did most of the indoor greenery.

Being based in Portland, says Joelle, doesn’t often give her the PROJECT SOURCES

opportunity to work with such unique architecture, or employ INTERIOR DESIGN Maison Inc. maisoninc.com

CUSTOM IRONWORKS Gearhart Ironwerks gearhartironwerks.com

LANDSCAPE CONTRACTOR The Landscape Guru

KITCHEN APPLIANCES Dacor, Sub-Zero Kitchen Plumbing Fixtures: Rohl Bath Fixtures Lenova Sink, Rohl Faucet

BATH COUNTERTOP Alpha StoneWorks alphastoneworks.com

58

PortraitMagazine.com

a near perfect and elegant palette. “Because the owners totally trusted us, they gave us a lot of leeway to juxtapose old with new upon a simple, yet amazing backdrop,” she says.

She adds that: “Working on out of town jobs can provide challenges, but in Rancho Santa Fe, where everything is idyllic, peaceful, and temperate, it was like nothing else in the world.”

Owner-designer Benjamin Silver expanded the footprint of this 1930s Herman Brookman home to 2700 sq. ft., restored the steel casement windows and added French doors, which flood the house with light from every direction

PAST PERFECTED WRITTEN BY STEPHANIE BOYLE MAYS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG KOZAWA

LIVING ROOM Owner-designer Benjamin Silver expanded the footprint of this 1930s Herman Brookman home to 2700 sq. ft., restored the steel casement windows and added French doors, which flood the house with light from every direction. Nestled in the original bay window overlooking the vast manicured gardens is an 18th c. Buddha atop a chest from Cargo. Manolo Moridejar's painting left counters Benjamin's artwork, and furniture designs: a low, sleek sofa and cross-grain cut tree trunk coffee table mounted on steel opposite the Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams “James� chair.

62

PortraitMagazine.com

LIKE A MIRAGE THAT SUDDENLY

appears in the midst intense desert heat, this 1930s Herman Brookman estate materializes at the end of a tree-lined driveway, where the Georgian style stucco house rises up before an acre of gardens originally designed by one of Portland's first professionally registered landscape architects, Wallace Huntington.

From the moment Benjamin Silver of Benjamin Silver Design set foot in this Brookman home, he was smitten. Having previously owned other Brookman homes, he was familiar with the quality of his design aesthetic, including such details as curved staircases, tray ceilings and custom millwork.

Born in New York City in 1891, Brookman began his career with New York architect Harrie T. Lindeberg before moving to Portland in 1923 at the behest of M. Lloyd Frank of Meier & Frank department store, who had him design his estate "Fir Acres" (now part of Lewis & Clark). Other well-known Brookman Portland structures include the Byzantine-style architecture found in Temple Beth Israel and the 1926 Bitar Mansion in Laurelhurst.

“Brookman was someone who loved 18th-19th century architecture, and reinterpreted it for the 1920s and 30s,” says Benjamin. “I’m grateful to have had the opportunity to reinterpret Brookman's designs into our modern lifestyle.”

One of the first things Benjamin did to this Brookman home was to introduce the dining room into the 50' long living room.

“What impressed me the first time I walked through the charming entry down to the expansive sunken living room,” recalls Benjamin, “was its beamed ceiling, bay window and informal fireplace. Instinctively, I felt one side of the large living room should be for entertaining and dining. So, by removing the large venting chimney that ran through the old dining room and some walls, I was able to incorporate the old dining room - a very strange little room that barely had any room to negotiate around a tiny table there - into part of the new kitchen.”

It’s not surprising that Benjamin, who has bought and restored approximately 25 old houses in Portland in as many years, not including those he's done for his clients, has gone from being a very precocious 12-year-old antiques dealer in London to a home designer who creates clean, modern spaces amidst

PortraitMagazine.com

63

vintage dwellings. Restoring houses was something he swore he'd never do, yet here he is today excelling at the same job his parents did in London during the late 60s and 70s. “My father was a very successful contractor,” says Benjamin. “He and my mother worked as a very talented team, redesigning old houses in London, and turning them into cool, modern dream homes.”

They never understood Benjamin’s passion for antiques, especially at such a young age, but that, too, has changed. “I've gone from a more traditional style home filled with antiques to fewer antiques. I believe a home should be a backdrop for my art and furnishings, creating a simple, clean aesthetic.”

Although he doesn’t like to title his abstract paintings, lest it reduce the buyer’s imagination about the work, he believes in naming the homes he restores. It wasn’t long before this house was christened “Blandings” after the 1948 Cary Grant movie, “Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream House.”

“Like the house in the “Blandings” movie, this house looked lovely on the surface, but the minute we started opening it up, it was so bad, that I had to rebuild it entirely,” says Benjamin. “There isn’t a surface that wasn’t touched, redone, replaced or restored.”

64

PortraitMagazine.com

The addition of a family room with a Brookman style tray ceiling, butler's pantry, and laundry off the new kitchen provide more usable living and work space to the former cottage.

“I really wanted a place you could hang out in, with French doors that open all the way six feet of open door space that ties the inside to the outside. Now you are able to look through the house from the den at one end, through to the family room at the other.”

Tearing down the central chimney that ran through the former living room and up into the master, which made it nearly too small to be inhabitable, was integral to the redesign of the house. It also gave them four additional feet in width for what would become the kitchen.

“The original galley kitchen was only about 8’ x 12’, and was located by the kitchen door, where the main sink now resides.”

To maintain the kitchen’s formal traditional style, appliances are hidden from view with a fully integrated 36” Subzero and convection oven tucked within the pantry.

FAMILY ROOM The family room addition incorporated Brookman’s characteristic cast cement fireplace mantel, and tray ceiling. STAIRCASE Brookman's signature curved staircase connects main floor with newly expanded master bedroom. DINING ROOM In the dead of winter, an 8 hole was cut in the new dining area for steel French doors, framed outdoors by an existing wisteria, to open onto the park-like garden.

Urban Timberworks fabricated Benjamin's elmwood dining table design, which he christened "The Jean Dining Table" after his late mother. Toledo dining chairs by Knoll, Kush rug, George II chandelier from Chown. At 18, Benjamin purchased the 8 day grandfather clock in London, which has been crated back and forth across both continents several times.

PortraitMagazine.com

65

Practicality is just one step behind beauty, with self-closing drawers in traditional, inset cabinetry by Crestwood, Inc., with small bone detail. A Visual Comforts egg light fixture over the farmhouse sink brings shine, while a prep sink and bar area near the 36” Viking stove with gas top and electric oven make entertaining easy in the adjacent family room.

“Part of making a project like this come together smoothly,” says Benjamin, “is having really good, long standing relationships with the craftsmen that are able to bring my vision into reality. I also like working with local companies like Chown, who supplied all the hardware,” says Benjamin. “They were fantastic.”

The butler’s pantry built-in, which features a Carrera marble counter, tall mullioned inset doors with pin hinges and nickel ribbon pulls, was designed to provide more storage space and serving area for the kitchen.

66

PortraitMagazine.com

MASTER BATH Former upstairs laundry turned master bath features hexagonal marble flooring and Carrera subway tile that acts as a dramatic backdrop for a nickel medicine cabinet and Edison sconces. A single inset sink rests within a 60" Carrera marble countertop. A luxurious footed slipper tub invites the weary to soak to their heart’s content, while contemplating the Benjamin Silver abstract oil painting. MASTER BEDROOM Benjamin's gray mohair bed continues the gray and cream motif in the newly expanded master bedroom.

“It’s a great formal extension of the kitchen,” he says of the area once allotted to a breakfast nook.

With the large chimney removed, the upstairs master bedroom became spacious enough to welcome the gun metal gray mohair bed that Benjamin designed for the room and then paired with dual Williams-Sonoma lamps and bedside tables.

The unseen, however, is often as important as the seen for Benjamin. “So often people don’t realize until they begin living in a home what they might have overlooked. Therefore,” he explains, “if I am working for clients who still enjoy a traditional look, I make certain that everything inside is brought up to date with all the conveniences they may need. It may look like a traditional home, but it is totally 21st century with energy efficient lighting, air conditioning, wireless sound system, heating and cooling all controlled by an app on your phone.”

What is more leisurely than being able to get in bed and turn out the lights, without having to get out again!

By opening up the house in all directions with more windows, French doors, large kitchen and family room addition, the new landscaping and the older Wallace Huntington gardens have become not only more visible, but also physically more accessible. “The house now has incredible light,” says Benjamin, who enjoys relaxing in a pair of Bittersweet Chocolate Mohair Williams-Sonoma chairs in the den at the living room end of house. The room features a charming fireplace and built-in bookcases that house his collection of 18th century boxes and other mementoes from Benjamin's past - some of which date back to his childhood days, buying and selling antiques in London under the tutelage of Mrs. Thrift, an antiques dealer from Portobello Road, others from his years in Los Angeles, selling beautiful things to beautiful people.

“But that didn't give me fulfillment,” he says. “It wasn’t until I moved to Portland in 1990, and I drove around looking at house after beautiful house, which is what my parents did when I was a kid, that I began to feel fulfilled!”

His first restoration - a Victorian - was done on a handshake with a lovely Irish woman in Northwest Portland, who carried the loan. “It was very warm and traditional with antique furnishings,” he says. Although his taste has changed dramatically since then, his love of Portland’s old homes has not. All in all, he says, Portland has become a place to call home.

68

PortraitMagazine.com

Dove White cabinets with Carrera marble countertops and backsplash are set against a Benjamin Moore Kendal Charcoal wall. A subway tile backsplash rises to enrobe restored steel casement windows. A family heirloom - 1970s blown glass Murano fruit bowl - lights up the counter near a Shaw farmhouse sink. Fully integrated dishwasher and recycling drawers are tucked behind recessed cabinetry below. A fixed steel window at the opposite end of the kitchen frames a pair of metal red lacquered chairs found at an estate sale.

The new additions required a redesign of the landscaping at the top of the rear garden. "Troy Clayton of Outdoor Spaces and I worked together to design those spaces," says Benjamin. A Dania smoked glass table top on stainless steel base with fabric chairs provides an outdoor dining area. A pond stocked with 80 fish is thriving at the bottom of the garden. A little garden shed built to match the house's architecture is located behind the 1930s close by Wallace Huntington featuring an extraordinary hedge.

shoptalk I BENJAMIN SILVER

NAME ONE THING YOU'VE DONE ON YOUR BUCKET LIST.

Silver: I've never had a bucket list, but I've been in love, had amazing friendships, traveled, gotten to sail the Riviera, and eat fresh cream gateaux at Louis Patisserie in London. I've also eaten the best Italian food in the world at Osteria Basilico, which all sounds very shallow, but I've never had a list, I've just been fortunate to do the things I wanted in life. Except it was always my dream to have a Georgian terraced house in Hampstead, and I haven't gotten that...yet!

WHAT ARE YOUR MOST COVETED ITEM(S)?

Silver: It used to be my Georgian tea caddies and gentleman's dressing boxes. All my antique boxes! Now that my parents have passed away, it's the silver candlesticks they were given on their wedding day and the little plastic silver shoe that sat atop their wedding cake. (Of course, there are lots of beautiful houses I covet, too!)

YOUR GREATEST INFLUENCE?

Silver: Mrs. Violet Agnes Thrift. She was a Scottish antique dealer and entrepreneur who made the simplest things in life exciting and beautiful. She was the most wonderful and influential person in my life from the time I was a child in London during the 1970s until today. She taught me to see beauty in everything. To be honest, sincere and make your life matter. When we met, I was 12 and she was in her 70s, and we became best friends. We were the "Harold and Maude" of the antique world. She'd pick me up at 6 am, it would be pouring with rain, dark and damp, and I'd get in the car and she'd say, "Isn't the car a wonderful thing, darling?

It can keep you warm and dry and play music while it's driving you around!" She made everything ordinary seem magical and never stopped inspiring me to do all the things I love.

WHAT’S INSPIRING YOU NOW?

Silver: Mostly, very clean, modern design and reinterpreting that within vintage spaces. I look at lots of young European architects and designers for my influence, again, reinterpreting that into something slightly softer and more comfortable to suit our life here in Portland.

WHAT'S YOUR FAVORITE CITY?

Silver: London!!!

PROJECT SOURCES

GO-TO HOST GIFT?

CONTRACTOR: ZB Construction

Silver: Beautiful, fresh flowers from Sammy's.

MY WORK IS…

Silver: The first word that comes to mind is exhausting!

I'm a perfectionist, and I don't rest until a project feels absolutely right. My mind is constantly on overdrive, trying to get every detail just as I see it in my mind.

INTERIOR DESIGN/CABINETRY DESIGN Benjamin Silver Design houzz.com/pro/bgsdesign/benjamin-silver-design LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT: Outdoor Spaces www.outdoorspacespdx.com WINDOWS AND DOORS Portland Millwork www.portlandmillwork.com

KITCHEN AND BATH FIXTURES LIGHTING AND HARDWARE Chown Hardware www.chown.com KITCHEN APPLIANCES Viking, Sub-Zero, Miele; Kitchen Faucets/Sink and Bath Faucets: Rohl; Bath Sinks: Kalista; Rugs: Atelier Lapchi, Kush Handmade Rugs; Countertop Materials: Intrepid Marble & Granite

PortraitMagazine.com

71

ALL IN THE

DETAILS WRITTEN BY Stephanie Boyle Mays PHOTOGRAPHED BY Jeff Freeman

THIS WAS THE NOT THE FIRST HOUSE THAT ALI AFGHAN HAD BUILT, but it was the first to receive the brunt of his mechanical engineering background. Yet for all its practical features, the first thing that anyone notices is the home’s effortless luxury.

Afghan had been searching for a home in the Portland area for himself and his “significant other,” when he found a tired 1940s-era house on a south-facing lot near downtown Lake Oswego. “The house was small and dark,” Afghan recalled, “but the lot was perfect.”

When the couple realized that they would build, they knew it would be a Mediterranean-style home. “I had always liked that style of house,” Afghan explained, “and I had a very good idea of the floor plan.” When the basic layout had been drawn, the architect had to depart, and Afghan took over the project. He enlisted builder Howard Goodman of Wing Ridge Construction in Pacific City. Goodman had rebuilt Afghan’s beach home after it had burned several years before. “Howard is one of the most honest people I have come across,” said Afghan, “and, at the time, I didn’t know the scope 100 percent. I needed some flexibility, and we agreed on a contract with a fixed fee. It was an arrangement that worked for both of us.”

“I was honored that they would drag me over to the Valley,” said Goodman who pulled down the old house and built the new one.

Building in Lake Oswego was a bit different than at the coast. “We didn’t have the same seismic concerns,” he said, “but we did include the same amount of waterproofing and we did pay just as close attention to detail.”

72

PortraitMagazine.com

PortraitMagazine.com

73

“While this was not the first house I ever built, I wanted everything to be coordinated and be awesome. I talked to a lot of designers. I picked the person with the most potential energy,” said Afghan of his choosing Wendy O’Brien of Wendy O’Brien Interior Planning & Design in Portland.

“Wendy got into my head with her ideas and showed me what I could do.”

Working with the existing floor plan that had the public rooms on the first floor and the master suite and two bedrooms and a bath on the second level, O’Brien designed the exterior and interior architectural details of the 2,628-square foot home. “I felt strongly that we should embrace the location of the home near downtown Lake Oswego,” said O’Brien. “Once we had the style established, which is a ‘Mediterranean Northwest,’ that set the tone for the interior. We wanted the materials, colors and textures in the home to not only embody the architecture but also reflect the colors and movement of the rich soil and Mediterranean Sea.”

74

PortraitMagazine.com

Espresso-stained cabinets and shelves (above) designed by Wendy O’Brien hold books, mementos and family photographs near an inviting wing chair and ottoman in the den, which O’Brien also designed. Stairs connecting (top right) the first and second floors have Appalachian oak treads and tiled risers. The balusters and railing were treated to the same espresso stain used in the den. A Moorish styled mirror (right) brings the Mediterranean ambiance to the first floor powder room.

GRANITE The granite on the center island was

TILE Field tile from Oregon Tile & Marble, fea-

chosen for its colors and undulating pattern in a

ture tile from Modern Surfaces and a liner tile

nod to the Mediterranean Sea while earth-toned

from Portland Direct Tile and Marble combine to

granite was used around the room’s perimeter

create the backsplash in the kitchen. Plumbing

to acknowledge Tuscany. Both are from Wall to

fixtures are from Moen through Ferguson.

Wall Tile & Stone.

VENT Viking hood and appliances from Stan-

CABINETRY At the back of house and open

dard TV & Appliance were concealed behind

to the Great Room, designer O’Brien used the

panels to foster a furniture look and complement

same style of cabinetry in the kitchen as was

the living area on the other side of the Great

used in the den but gave it a painted finish with

Room. Pendant fixtures from Globe Lighting en-

a dry brush technique to add depth.

hance the natural sunlight.

The home was designed from the inside out starting with a rustic flavor of rich warm tones and classic architectural details. Dark-stained distressed Appalachian oak floors reminiscent of wine barrels and natural stone tiles from Macadam Floor and Design were used with earth tones on the walls and espresso-stained custom built ins designed by O’Brien. Authentically proportioned French doors by Simpson from Northwest Door & Supply and Jeld Wen windows from Parr Lumber let in the plentiful light. Not forgetting Afghan’s wish for a “warm and comfortable home,” she also hand selected the custom sofa, wing and side chairs, bar stool and ottomans, which were then made locally at Portland Furniture and covered in cream linen, tan and gold. “I am,” she said, “very detail oriented. I provide floor, furniture and lighting plans, elevations and detailed specifications. Whatever is French doors open to a deck and balcony and ensure plenty of light reaches the

needed to complete the perfect dream home.”

master bedroom. The bathtub is positioned to take advantage of views outside

78

or of the fireplace. A bed from Restoration Hardware dressed in Pottery Barn

The attention to detail continued upstairs in the two bed-

linens sits beneath a coffered ceiling that gives the room added dimension and

rooms and bath used by Afghan’s daughters and in the master

drama. In the bathroom proper, cabinet design and granite counters are repeated

bedroom and bath. “A lot of people thought I was crazy,” said

from downstairs and Kohler sinks are mated with Delta faucets. To provide plush-

Afghan, “when I said I wanted the bathtub in the bedroom.

ness under foot, the homeowner requested the floor be carpeted.

You can take a bath and talk with your significant other or

PortraitMagazine.com

watch TV or enjoy the fire. You are not segregated in the bathroom. Certainly this would not work for small children, but for adults, it is for pleasure and leisure.” O’Brien found a Victoria + Albert tub on espresso wood supports which made it more closely resemble a moveable piece of furniture rather than a permanent fixture. Afghan’s ideas for a different kind of master suite did not end with the tub. The back half of the expansive shower– located more traditionally in the bathroom--acts as a drying off

THE ESSENTIALS OF LIVING WELL

area for anyone exiting the shower and as a hallway leading between the bathroom and the hot tub on the adjoining deck.

Throughout the plan, O’Brien worked with Afghan to provide a home designed for how the couple planned to live. In fact, this is one of the hallmarks of O’Brien and how she approaches the interior experience; by meticulously profiling her client’s complete lifestyle and designing the perfect living environment no matter what the style, be it traditional, transitional, contemporary or modern.

“I am a mechanical engineer,” explained Afghan, “and I wanted the design to be intuitive. It is for people of any age but also for in your Golden years. The steps in the stairs are shallow so they are not difficult to climb. There is an elevator with doorways wide enough for a wheel chair. There is only one step from the entry into the house that was added to provide character but it could easily be fitted with a ramp. “This was also my first house where I thought about home automation,” he continued. “The outdoor and indoor lighting, thermostat, security and surveillance system and sound system can all be controlled remotely by my iPhone or iPad.” Other innovations introduced by the engineer were tie downs for safety ropes on the house and the garage to ensure the well being of anyone working on the roof, wiring the garden wall for lighting, standardizing the vent sizes so all filters will be the same size, and positioning a camera so you can always check to make sure you shut the garage door.

“Working with Wendy was a constant conversation; for everything I wanted to do she gave me two or three ideas. No question this is a luxury home,” said Afghan, “but it makes you feel comfortable. It is a home where people are meant to live. I look forward to coming home every day.”

PROJECT SOURCES CONTRACTOR Wing Ridge Construction www.wingridge.com

CUSTOM FURNITURE Portland Furniture www.portlandfurnitureonline.com

INTERIOR DESIGN Wendy O'Brien Interior Planning & Design www.wendyobrienid.com

HARDWARE Chown Hardware; KITCHEN APPLIANCES: Viking; Faucets: Victoria & Albert, Moen, Delta; Sinks: Kohler

JELD-WEN WINDOWS: Parr Lumber www.parr.com

LUXURIOUS INTERIOR & EXTERIOR HOME DESIGN Traditional

.

Transitional

503.545.7776

.

Contemporary

.

Modern

www.wendyobrien.com

WING RIDGE Construction,

LLC

Quality. Value.

ORCCB #162416

“Our reputation for building homes to withstand Oregon coast storms is how many clients initially found us. Now our teams work all over Oregon. Dedicated to excellent construction and customer service for over 16 years.”

– Howard Goodman Owner, Wing Ridge Construction

503-347-3490 l wingridge.com

Looking for a Commercial Building for your Business?

• Exclusively commercial properties • 30 years commercial leasing and sales experience

Tony Reser, Senior Vice President treser@kiddermatthews.com 503-227-2271

80

PortraitMagazine.com

Installing elegant technology solutions in the finest homes.

SEE A FULL RANGE OF OUR WORK AND CAPABILITIES AT

GOROOMSERVICE.COM

control your entire home from your phone or tablet

Room Service Home Technologies is the Northwest’s trusted team for home technology design and installation. From home theater to shading and lighting control, whole home music, home automation and security systems, Room Service has the right solution to streamline your home and enhance your lifestyle.

Call today for a personalized consultation.

ORCCB#90213 WA#ROOMSAV033BU

503.598.7380 | www.GoRoomService.com | 10120 SW Nimbus, Suite C1 | Portland

{find your style} over 80,00 square feet of fashion and home decor fabrics

DRAPERY UPHOLSTERY OIL CLOTH APPAREL FABRIC TRIMS COTTONS NOTIONS YARNS SPECIAL ORDER

Family-owned since 1918 PORTLAND 503.786.1234 9701 SE McLoughlin Blvd HOURS

Mon-Fri 9:30 – 6:00

Sat 9:30 – 5:30

BEAVERTON 503.646.3000 4955 SW Western Ave Sun 12:00 – 5:00

www.millendstore.com

BORN IN THE USA

MGBW

For two decades, Mitchell Gold & Bob Williams home furnishings have been synonymous with relaxed style. For them, comfort and beauty work in concert; they are never opposing ideals.

INTERVIEW BY

Donna Pizzi

inter view I GOLD & WILLIAMS

MGBW SHARE THEIR SENSE OF STYLE & EXPERIENCES WHAT WERE YOUR GREATEST SUCCESSES? Mitchell: We have had some really great successes. One thing for sure was the introduction of the leather club chairs that we had first seen in Parisian flea markets.

When we proportioned and updated them more for Americans, we sold over one billion dollars’ worth in retail over the past 17 or 18 years. Another big success was our slipcovered furniture. We didn’t invent it, but we reinvented it in the early 90s. When we introduced it, it was something my grandmother had, which some other folks started doing as well about the same time. We sold hundreds of millions dollars worth of slipcovered furniture and are still selling it. We’ve had some really big ones.

A third success I would add is that in 1996 or so, when we moved into the new showroom, we introduced our S&M Collection – Soft & Modern. Bob and I had been traveling in Europe and we’d been seeing things there as well as in America. The big thing was that Bob noticed that in any given city, where a new ring of development was happening around it - like in Atlanta or Charlotte – there were lots of mid-century modern homes being built.

So, Bob said, “Let’s do things that fit into these homes.” We didn’t want to do hard edge mid-century modern, so we did very soft mid-century modern. Right out of the gate, we sold it to some good retailers and started to see sales on it right away and it has continued to be an extremely big part of our look now.

TOP TO BOTTOM Show-stopping Vega cocktail table with a slatted polished-stainless-steel frame and a smoked glass top. ‘70s influenced version of the classic shelter-style, the Bennet leather sofa with padded channeled back. Vintagebrass and matte black make the Maxwell floor lamp a classic.

Stylishly curved with splayed wood legs the Vera sofa exudes a mod spirit.

84

PortraitMagazine.com

READ MORE OF THIS INTERVIEW AT PORTRAITMAGAZINE.COM/ INTERVIEWS

WHAT DO YOU ENJOY DOING APART FROM DESIGNING? Bob: Believe it or not, I’m the biggest homebody in the world, so I enjoy doing things at home. Whether it’s working out in the yard or just piddling around in the house. Just getting things cleaned, organized or whatever. I’m very happy doing that. It’s fun that what I do professionally is related to what I enjoy doing during my free time. Even when I’m on vacation or away, I’m always going to fleamarkets or second hand stores just to pick up stuff.

Lots of things I’ve picked up have ended up becoming a product three years down the road.

Mitchell: I love to read for enjoyment or relaxation. I have a beautiful home on a lake so I read before the view. I like to read biographies, especially about successful people, whether it was Lee Iacocca at one point or President John- son. I tend to read business-y, strategy books. I just read: “It’s Not the Big that Eat the Small, It’s the Fast that Beat the Slow” (by Jason Jennings & Laurence Haughton). That’s very much what we’re about, because we work very quickly in our business. We work thoughtfully and carefully, but if we have an idea for a product we can work fast. We could have it on the market within months because we have our own factory.

DELANEY TABLE A jewel piece for the dining room: the 60� round Delaney dining extension table expands to an 80� oval. Crafted from warm walnut veneers and a flat-bar satin-brass decorative pedestal base, the table has a sunburst-patterned top.

PortraitMagazine.com

85

Providing Portland’s Best Fireplace Selections Since 1947

PORTLAND 12518 NE Airport Way 503.261.1000 888.246.9772 MILWAUKIE 9035 SE 32nd Avenue 503.659.1759 HOURS Monday-Friday 9-5, Saturday 10-5

www.lisacsfireplaces.com

Family-owned and operated in the NW for over 60 years.

Featured in the Street of Dreams since 1994.

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW Mitchell Gold and Bob Williams (CONT) IF YOU WEREN'T A FURNITURE DESIGNER WHAT WOULD YOU HAVE LIKED TO BE? Bob: I’m a frustrated architect and it drives people crazy. The two are somewhat parallel. I can come up with an idea for a piece of furniture and within weeks get the sample made, look at it and approve it, and that’s very satisfying, because it’s almost like instant gratification. I feel sorry for some of these architects who spend years working on a building and have to make so many compromises. When we first started working on our business, sometimes we had to change it or make compromises and now I don’t have to, so it’s much more enjoyable.

Mitchell: I probably would have been a politician. I probably would have been a Republican senator who was liberal and fair-minded (said tongue in cheek!). I’m fascinated by politics, journalists. I don’t know if I were a politician what I’d be. Perhaps a senator would interest me the most. I’m from Trenton, New Jersey. We’re very friendly with Senator Kay Hagen. In fact, Bob designed her office, which is fabulous.

It is the most beautiful office in the Senate. We heard the same from other senators, who actually buy from us as well.

FROM ALL YOUR PIECES WHICH IS YOUR FAVORITE AND WHY? Mitchell: At the moment, I’m very into our Cooper Swivel chair, because I find it to be very convenient and comfortable. In my home on Hickory Lake, I put them in the living room, where I can turn them – there’s a pair of them - and look out the big window, and relax. It’s a really great, flexible piece.

Bob: I’m in the process of redoing my downstairs and I just got the Malone sofa for my living room. I’m very excited about that. It’s going to be floating in the of the middle room.

When you walk in, it faces you. I’m kind of excited about that. I like the

piece, because it has a curved back and when you sit in it, it’s a very great sofa for a conversation. I want people to easily have a conversation and chat.

HOW DO YOU RECOMMEND PEOPLE LIVE AN INSPIRED AND FASHIONABLE LIFE? Bob: I always suggest when people first start designing or picking furniture for their house, not to worry about color, not to worry about style, but to really think about how they want to live in the space. Is it a big or small space? A big space is a lot of little spaces all put together or divided into small spaces.

Then they need to really think about how they want to interact with people.

Do they want to be able to have a conversation, sit back and read a book, or watch TV? When they start shopping for furniture, they’ll know what the function needs to be. Getting the right size is easy, because furniture comes in multiple sizes. At least if you know how you want to live in it, when you look for pieces you’ll know whether or not it’s going to let you live the way you want.

IF ONE WERE GOING TO INVEST IN TWO MAJOR PIECES FOR THE HOME, WHAT SHOULD THOSE BE? Mitchell: A great sofa, because you use it a lot, and a bed. You could get away with a mattress and box spring, but having nice furniture in the bedroom is important too. That’s why we like upholstered beds, because they immediately make a bedroom look soft and inviting, versus an iron bed of some sort.

Bob: I would say a sofa that’s big enough for you and the person you live with and love and enjoy.

Mitchell: What if you’re single?

Bob: Then you have a potential! At that point, a cocktail table.

Mitchell: A great dining room table and chairs. You can do a lot in a dining room. You can work, have a nice meal.

THE HEART AND SOUL OF WINE COUNTRY

DUNDEE HILLS Written by COLE DANEHOWER

Wine, especially pinot noir wine, is all about place. Plant a pinot vine here and it will taste one way, plant it over there and it will taste a different way. Plant it in the Dundee Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, and it will likely taste of silky red cherries or raspberries with a touch of autumn-dewed forest floor and a smidgen of mysterious minerality. It should be, in short, the very signature of what the world thinks of as Oregon pinot noir.

Oregon pinot noir did not begin in the Dundee Hills, but it is in the Dundee Hills where Oregon pinot noir first won its worldwide reputation for greatness.

It is a well known story, but well worth retelling.

When one of Burgundy’s most respected wine families acquired land in Oregon’s Dundee Hills for a vineyard and winery, the wine world sat up and took notice.

The creation of Domaine Drouhin by Robert Drouhin, the third-generation head of Maison Joseph Drouhin, and his daughter Veronique, put an indelible stamp of credibility on Oregon’s wine potential.

In the autumn

OF 1964, A YOUNG GRADUATE OF THE FAMED VITICULTURE AND ENOLOGY PROGRAM AT UC DAVIS NAMED DAVID LETT GATHERED 3,000 VINE CUTTINGS FROM VARIOUS CALIFORNIA VINEYARDS AND JUST AFTER CHRISTMAS HEADED NORTH TO OREGON.

© The Eyrie Vineyards/Diana Lett

David Lett and his grape cuttings established the Dundee Hills as the early epicenter of Oregon’s wine community.

Lett had been taught that Oregon was too cold and

Drouhin, scion of Burgundy négociant, Maison

wet to successfully grow wine grapes, but he

Joseph Drouhin, staged a re-tasting on his home turf

thought otherwise. He was convinced the climate in

of Beaune, France. The result was essentially the

the Willamette Valley was just right for certain so-

same—and it changed Oregon forever.

called “cool climate” grapes, pinot noir—the great

Impressed with Oregon’s potential, Robert’s daugh-

red grape of Burgundy—prime among them.

ter Véronique came to the Dundee Hills in 1986

Unpropitiously, that winter was exceptionally wet,

with a degree in enology and worked harvest at

even for Oregon. Lett later recalled that the asphalt

Eyrie and other nearby vineyards. The next year

ribbon of the still-being built I-5 freeway was almost

Robert purchased land in the Dundee Hills and

obscured by what seemed to be the surrounding

founded Domaine Drouhin Oregon. The wine world

Willamette Valley lake, so heavy had been the sea-

was stunned: never before had a Burgundy pro-

son’s floods. Lett sheltered his cuttings in a rented

ducer invested so heavily in a New World venture.

nursery plot outside of Corvallis while he looked for

With such an influential stamp of approval from a

permanent vineyard land.

legendary Burgundy name, the Dundee Hills were

He found exactly what he wanted on a south-ex-

off and running as the unofficial home of North

posed slope in what was then known as the Red

America’s best answer to Burgundy.

Hills of Dundee. With his planting in 1966 of the

When today’s worldwide wine lovers encounter a

first vines at what Lett christened The Eyrie Vine-

Willamette Valley pinot noir, chances are it had its

yards, he also fixed the Dundee Hills as ground zero

roots in the slopes of the hills outside the hamlet of

of the Oregon pinot explosion that continues today.

Dundee. Some of the best-known Oregon wine

Lett wasn’t entirely alone in discovering the Dundee

names—Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Stoller Family

Hills’ affinity for grapes. A pamphlet published in

Estate, Erath, Archery Summit, Sokol Blosser,

1908 by the Yamhill County Development League

Domaine Serene—are based in the Dundee Hills.

featured a full-color plate of much earlier grapes

So with all the enthusiastic acclaim, are the Dun-

grown on the “Red Hills of Yamhill.” And quickly

dee Hills really that great for wine? In a word, yes.

after Lett’s vines went into the ground, new wine growing neighbors joined him on the Dundee Hills, including Dick Erath, Bill Blosser and Susan Sokol

90

PortraitMagazine.com

DUNDEE HILLS TERROIR

Blosser. A few years later, Burgundy itself followed.

The French term terroir is difficult to explain; liter-

In 1979, a blind tasting of pinot noir wines was held

ally, it means the “taste” of a place. Broadly, it refers

in Paris. To everyone’s surprise, an upstart wine

to the idea that wines express the unique character-

from Oregon’s far off Dundee Hills outranked many

istics of the place where the grapes were grown.

of Burgundy’s best wines. So impressive—and un-

This is also the concept, in a wider way, behind the

likely—was The Eyrie Vineyards 1975 South Block

idea of appellations, or designated wine growing re-

Reserve wine’s performance, that a year later Robert

gions. The Dundee Hills was granted the American

signature quality of Dundee Hills grapes. (Right) One of the most recognized Dundee Hills producers, Archery Summit winery was one of the first in Oregon to carve underground wine caves. (Bottom left) Domaine Serene’s Italianinspired winery is a Dundee Hills landmark, and their perennially highscored wines are some of the most desired from the appellation.

© John Valls

© John Valls

(Top left) Jesse Lange joined his father Don Lange as part of the family’s wine-making team in 2004. As General Manager of Lange Estate Winery and Vineyard, Jesse is building on the 27 year legacy of the Dundee Hills family winery, founded in 1987 by Don and Wendy Lange.

(Top and lower right) Durant Vineyards, at Red Ridge Farm, epitomize the

TORII MOR

Winemaker and native Burgundian Jacques Tardy brings a heritage of five generations of winemaking to the crafting of Dundee Hills wines for Torii Mor Winery. Founded in 1993 by Dr. Donald Olson, and drawing upon the Olson Estate Vineyard planted in 1972, Torii Mor is noted for beautifully made wine with strong structure and balance.

© John Valls

© John Valls

(Top left) Native Flora winery is surrounded by forest on three sides and open sky on the fourth.

Visitors are encouraged to roam the 33-acre site and enjoy the stunning vistas. (Top right) Grapes have been grown at Red Ridge Farms for nearly 40 years. The proprietors have expanded their offerings to include a specialty nursery, olive grove, and lavendar fields. The region's

reddish silt, clay and loam soils produce some of the world's most distinct pinot noir wines.

(Bottom right) Bill Sweat and Donna Morris founded Winderlea Vineyard and Winery in 2006 to pursue their vision of pinot noir. Through LIVEcertified sustainable farming and artisan winemaking they have earned an enviable reputation for the quality of their Dundee Hills wines.

version of appellation status, called an American Viticultural Area

The Dundee Hills are a circular-ish set of Coast Range foothills

(AVA), in 2004. AVAs aren’t about wine quality, but they are about

that rise above the valley floor to a little over 1,000 feet. The

geography—and geography determines the personality of wine.

Yamhill-Carlton AVA is to the west, between the Dundee Hills and

It starts with the climate. As part of the larger Willamette Valley AVA, the Dundee Hills AVA shares a climate that is ideally suited to the evolutionarily-conditioned ripening habits of grapes that require a “cool” climate to ripen properly.

Stand amidst the vines of a Dundee Hills vineyard in the middle of summer and you would not consider it cool. But for a grape, the amount of growing season heat it receives in the Willamette Valley is less than in other, warmer regions (such as eastern Washington, or much of lower-latitude California). This makes the

the Coast Range. This means the Dundee Hills are better protected from marine air and Pacific Ocean storms, and so is a bit drier and warmer than the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. At the same time, the higher Chehalem Mountains lie to the north, providing protection from cold winter winds and hot summer breezes that flow into the Willamette Valley from the Columbia Gorge. The Dundee Hills, therefore, are generally more moderate in temperature than other parts of the region—which helps give the AVA’s grapes a more uniform character.

region perfect for pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay, riesling, and

It ends with the dirt. Perhaps more than anything else, the Dundee

other grapes best adapted to cooler areas.

Hills are known for their rufous-hued, iron-rich, silty clay loam

But even within the Willamette Valley, the Dundee Hills has its own climatic character that makes its wines distinct from neighboring appellations.

soils called Jory. Formed from decomposed ancient basalt (which is the soil’s bedrock), Jory is now the official state soil of Oregon and is highly prized for its affinity for pinot noir.

PortraitMagazine.com

93

HOW THE AVA GOT ITS NAME

So why is the appellation now called the Dundee Hills? When Willamette Valley vineyard owners and winemakers decided to petition for a series of new, more specific AVAs, one of the submissions was to create a new “Red Hills” AVA. But, at around the same time, a slightly prior petition was received by the government for a “Red Hill” AVA in Southern Oregon.

Despite the fact that the dozens of vineyards and wineries located in Willamette Valley hills outside of Dundee had been known as the Red Hills for generations, or that the submission from Southern Oregon encompassed but a single vineyard, there was an obvious potential for confusion between the “Red Hills” and “Red Hill”.

The Willamette Valley petitioners revised their proposed name to be “Red Hills of Dundee.”

Unfortunately, there are a variety of other wine appellations, both domestically and internationally, that contain some form of the names “Red” and “Hill(s).” In order to avoid consumer confusion, the final approved name of the Willamette Valley child—AVA became “Dundee Hills AVA,” and the Southern Oregon appellation became the “Red Hill of Douglas County, Oregon AVA.” Not ideal for either party, but workable.

94

PortraitMagazine.com

(Above) Vineyards in the Dundee Hills produce some of the finest cool-climate vinifera fruit in the country. In the autumn, as vines repose into dormancy, green leaves turn to gold and life generally slows. At Winderlea Vineyards there’s time to walk the vine rows.

(Lower right) At Durant Vineyards,

one of the regions leading independent vineyards and one of the earliest planted, with vines going into the ground in 1973, Ken Durant reflects on the harvest. As pioneers in the Oregon wine industry, the Durant family has focused on producing premier pinot noir, pinot gris and chardonnay.

© John Valls

For generations the undulating hills west of the town of Dundee, Oregon, have been known as the Red Hills of Dundee. From the start wineries in the area proudly referred to their location as the Red Hills of Dundee. Wine books published before 2005, including the seminal North American Pinot Noir by John Winthrop Haeger and The Oxford Companion to the Wines of North America, refer to the area as the Red Hills of Dundee.

WINES

This dirt is unusually deep for hillside soils, ranging from 6 to 8 feet between surface and bedrock, and it is only moderately fer-

Other grape varieties grow here, and beauti-

tile, capable of few agricultural crops. But

fully so, but it is the character of the pinot noir

grapes love it. It drains well enough to keep

that has given the Dundee Hills their celebrity.

grapevine roots dry during the summer, yet

Pinot noir is famously “transparent”, meaning

holds just enough moisture to generally not

that it displays the unique characteristics of

require irrigation. It maintains a comfortable

the vintage and place where it was grown

temperature for roots during the summer,

more readily than other grapes. So while pinot

and does not freeze in the winter. And, it is

noir wines grown at the vineyards in the

more on the acidic side than the alkaline, a

Dundee Hills will vary in style, there does

fact that some believe adds to the flavors it

seem to be an overall Dundee Hills pinot noir

imparts in the grapes.

character.

All of this is not to say that Jory soil is bet-

It is always dicey describing the characteristics

ter for pinot noir than other soils, only that

of wine since everyone’s sense of flavors and

it lends certain characteristics to pinot noir

aromas differ. Nevertheless, over the decades

wines—especially those from the Dundee

Dundee Hills pinot noir wines have come to

Hills.

be associated with a common set of attributes.

De PONTE CELLARS

Isabelle Dutartre is a Burgundian who has found her winemaking home in the Dundee Hills. Since its establishment in 1999, Isabelle has made the head-turning pinot noir wines of De Ponte Cellars.

Not only is she able to draw on pinot noir from one of the oldest estate vineyards in the region, but she also makes delightful estate white wines from the rare melon de Bourgogne grape, famous as the grape for Muscadet wines. Though not as flashy as some of their neighbors, De Ponte Cellars is a favorite of the local wine cognoscenti.

ARGYLE

Nate Klostermann is at the helm of winemaking at Argyle Winery, one of the best-known wineries in the Dundee Hills. Argyle is one of the few producers of sparkling wine in Oregon, and has achieved widespread acclaim for their Vintage Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Brut RosĂŠ, and Knudsen Vineyard Brut sparklers.

Of equal stature, however, is their series of pinot noir, chardonnay, and riesling wines. Klostermann and Argyle produce one of the widest range of wine styles in the appellation.

First of all, the fruit flavors seem to be redolent of the kind of lushly flavored red berry fruits that ripen so wonderfully in the Northwest: Bing cherry, Hood strawberry, Stevens cranberry, Cascade Delight raspberry. Often these flavors are accompanied by a sense of pretty violet or lavender notes, adding a pleasing floral quality.

Frequently the fruitiness is accented by gentle earthy undertones, sometimes reminiscent of the smells you experience when walking in a damp autumn forest, or when raking dried leaves, or even when turning fresh garden humus. Sometimes there are hints of minerality, a difficult to describe sensation of “wet stones” or a kind of dried, slightly edgy salinity.

Besides the flavors and smells of Dundee Hills pinot noirs, they are also noted for gentle tannins, medium-to-high acidity, medium-to© Richard Knapp

light body, and generous, silky textures. Taken together, these different traits combine to create wines of uncommon elegance, even grace, yet with focus and intensity. They seem to have a kind of energy to them, yet without overt boldness or drama. They embody the cliché descriptor of the best pinot noirs: an iron fist in a velvet glove.

Of course you can go to the wine shop, find a few bottles of Dundee Hills wine, and take them home to enjoy. But the very best way to experience the wines of the Dundee Hills is to go visit the wineries themselves: taste the place at the place. The Dundee Hills are only about 25 miles southwest of Portland, so a weekend’s jaunt is easy to do.

But deciding which wineries to visit is far less simple!

Scattered around the vineyard-strewn hills, you can choose to visit any of the “big name” wineries, those who have nationally-prominent brands and which have created sophisticated, in some cases luxurious, tasting options. Erath, Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Stoller

(Top) Archery Summit is one of the great prestige labels of the Northwest. General Manager and winemaker Chris Mazepink ensures the winery’s tradition of quality is pushed forward in every vintage. (Right) Domaine Trouvére wines focus on specific vineyard blocks and are vinted

in small lots and processed by hand.

(Below) Robert Schultz is the vineyard manager for Stoller Family Estate, and emphasizes LIVE-certified sustainable growing practices. Their pinot noir characteristically expresses a combination of red to darker fruits, spice, and finegrain tannins.

© John Valls

EXPERIENCING THE WINES

Family Estate, Archery Summit, Sokol Blosser, and Domaine Serene are all examples of prestige labels with engaging tasting rooms that offer estate vineyard views and customized tasting options. Often there are outside seating facilities and winery tours available as well.

Also strewn about the hills are many smaller estates that have been important in the development of the Willamette Valley’s wine culture, and which offer excellent visiting facilities and superb wines.

Lange Estate Winery & Vineyards, Winter’s Hill Vineyard, DePonte Cellars, Hyland Estates, Maresh Red Barn, Torii Mor are excellent hillside examples. Down from the slopes, in Dundee itself, the tasting rooms of Argyle Winery and Dobbes Family Estate are must-

© Carolyn Wells-Kramer

visits for signature examples of Dundee Hills wines.

Despite its long history, the Dundee Hills are also home to a growing group of newer wineries that often push the envelope of wine style and quality. A visit to any of the following wineries offers new discoveries for wine lovers wishing to go beyond the traditional wine

PortraitMagazine.com

97

(Above) From vine to bottle, the wines of the Dundee Hills are hand-grown and hand-made. Sheep in the vine rows at Native Flora illustrate their emphasis on natural farming practices. The focus on minimal intervention in winemaking means that Dundee Hills wines are true expressions of the

terroir of each vineyard block. (Right) Dundee Hills pinot noirs tend to be very focused with great clarity and complexity.

Common descriptors are bright red fruits,exotic spices, and a gorgeous minerality in the structure. (Below) Stoller Family Estate’s vines epitomize the beauty of the appellation.

labels: Winderlea Vineyard & Winery, ROCO Winery, Alexana Winery, White Rose Estate, Vista Hills Vineyard & Winery, The Four Graces, Thistle Wines, Durant Vineyards, Crumbled Rock, Winery, Bella Vida Vineyard, Barrel Fence, Armonéa Vineyard & Winery, and Domaine Trouvère.

Some of the most important, and interesting Dundee Hills wineries have their tasting rooms in out-of-the-AVA locations. The AVA’s founding winery for instance, The Eyrie Vineyards, does their tastings at the original winery in nearby McMinnville. Westrey Wine Company, likewise, can be visited by appointment at their facility in McMinnville. Fox Farm Vineyards operates out of their tasting room in Newberg.

Besides the tasting rooms, a variety of other Dundee Hills vineyards and wineries offer tastings by appointment, including Anderson Family Vineyard, Ayoub Winery, Native Flora and Nysa Vineyard.

A few Dundee Hills wineries, Cameron and Dusky Goose for example, do not offer tasting opportunities.

Of course, there is no rule that says you have to be located in the Dundee Hills in order to make wine from the Dundee Hills! Many out-of-the-AVA winemakers produce wines from Dundee Hills fruit. Élevée Vineyard pinot noir is made by Penner-Ash Wine Cellars, for instance. Crowley makes Dundee Hills pinot noirs from La Colina and Gehrts Vineyards, Matello uses fruit from the Durant vineyard, and Et Fille makes a fine pinot noir from Maresh Vineyard.

So it is easy to experience the Dundee Hills in any number of ways.

But however you choose to visit the Dundee Hills, or to sample the appellation’s wines, you will undoubtedly be impressed with their distinctive characters. There is wine history to be experienced in this AVA, but there is also freshness and innovation. In nearly every respect, the Dundee Hills embodies all that is wonderful about Oregon’s wine culture!

98

PortraitMagazine.com

ALEXANA

Bryan Weil oversees wine production at Alexana Winery, one of the newest Dundee Hills producers working to advance the appellation’s reputation for quality. The vision of Dr. Madaiah Revana, Alexana’s 55-acre LIVE-certified sustainable estate vineyard has 18 different soil types, offering Bryan and consulting winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash an enviable diversity of soil profiles to work with in crafting their pinot noir, chardonnay, and riesling wines.

© John Valls

(Upper Left) Don Lange, along with Wendy Lange founded Lange Estate Winery in 1987, making it one of the most sought after sources for Dundee Hills wines.

(Left) the red Jory soil of Erath Prince Hill Vineyard. S (Below Left) Alison Sokol Blosser, Co-President and CEO of Sokol Blosser, along with brother Alex Sokol Blosser, Co-President and Winemaker, are taking this founding

© Leah Nash

100

PortraitMagazine.com

Dundee Hills winery into its second generation of family ownership.

(Above right) Winter’s Hill Vineyard was created by Emily and Peter Gadhart in 1990. Today, son Russell manages sales and marketing while his French-born wife Delphine is the estate’s winemaker. (Right and below) Domaine Serene has an international reputation as one of Oregon’s leading prestige wine brands.

wintershillwine.com

Sitting atop the storied Dundee Hills of Oregon, Winter's Hill proudly produces estate Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc (and a few other gems).

Tasting Room Open 11-5, Closed Tuesdays 6451 Hilltop Lane, Dayton OR 97114

JOIN US

Visit our tasting room for extraordinary wines and exceptional hospitality.

Open 11 to 5 daily 7 days a week Groups of 8 or more welcome with advanced arrangement

691 highway 99w dundee, oregon 97115 telephone 503.538.8520 argylewinery.com

Tasting Notes

Cole Danehower is a James Beard Foundation Journalism Award winner and author of the book Essential Wines and Wineries of

Cole Danehower Tasting Notes

the Pacific Northwest. He has covered the Oregon and Northwest

DUNDEE HILLS ALEXANA 2012 Pinot Noir, Revana Vineyard Estate, Dundee Hills Meaty aromas of blackberry and plum fruit, forest floor humus, and a touch of tar lend a savory accent to the nose. Similar qualities show in the mouth, with rich blackberry flavor surrounded by hints of vanilla, cocoa, and earth.

Dense texture packs plenty of fruit, and will likely develop beautifully with some cellaring.

2011 Riesling, Revana Vineyard, Dundee Hills Electrum color leads to opulent signature riesling scents of spice (sometimes called “petrol”), fresh hay, and wet concrete. On the palate focused and zingy flavors of white peach, pear skin, and dried hay have power and authority. Dry in style, tart green apple and clove-spiked pear notes also appear on the resounding finish.

ARCHERY SUMMIT

EssentialNorthwestWines.com

$48

$28

2012 Pinot Noir, Red Hills Estate, Dundee Hills Vibrant purple color is distinctive. Intense aromas of crushed plums and berries mix enticingly with dried basil and garden humus. Silky texture delivers complex sweet black cherry-focused flavors with clove, rose hip, toast, and black tea. Excellently balanced acid and tannin frames the fruit well. A big wine with surprising delicacy.

$85

2012 Pinot Noir, Renegade Ridge Estate, Dundee Hills Pastel-hued dark purple color introduces meaty pinot perfume with herbal accents. Surprisingly light on the tongue, sweet raspberry flavors are ringed by notes of cinnamon, cola, and violets. Strong structure isn’t obtrusive, bright acids add verve, and the finish is reminiscent of caramel-coated apples.

$85

ARGYLE 2009 Brut, Knudsen Vineyard, Dundee Hills 75% Pinot noir, 25% Chardonnay Brilliant white gold color. Biscuity scents of dried grass and rain-spattered stones with a leesy edge. Great energy to the ripe peach and dried apricot fruitiness, along with a potent streak of minerality, all accentuated by the fine mousse. A mighty tasty sparkler.

2012 Pinot Noir, Spirithouse, Knudsen Vineyard, Master Series, Dundee Hills Deep and meaty scents of forest floor, caramel, and dark red berries greet the nose. Tart strawberry-centered crushed red fruits swaddle the palate with beautifully balanced fruit, acid, and fine-grained tannin. Elegant, yet potent, the finish is lingering and memorable.

ARMONÉA 2012 Pinot Noir, Summit Vineyard, Dundee Hills Sweet cherry blossom scents emerge from a background of molasses and caramel, all of which reappear on the plush palate. A floral overlay adds an uplifting note. Pliable tannins add weight to the medium-length finish.

2012 Late Harvest Riesling, Wine Country Farm Estate, Dundee Hills Lavish honey gold color and scents of burnt sugar and freshly crushed herbs are diagnostic of a true “sticke” dessert wine. Syrupy mouth feel is redolent with sweet, spicy notes of petrol and dried herbs. Oozy with soft honeyed flavors.

102

wine scene since 1998. Love Northwest wine? Read Cole's blog at:

PortraitMagazine.com

$50

$75

$35

$30

BARREL FENCE CELLARS 2009 Pinot Noir, North 45, Sims Estate Vineyard, Dundee Hills Caramel-like scents mingle with vanilla and clove notes on the sweetly spicy nose. As the wine opens plum and blackberry notes rise from a toasty background. Good structure and freshening acidity brightens the dark-fruit finish.

BELLA VIDA 2011 Pinot Noir, Two Row, Proprietor’s Cuvée, Dundee Hills Herbaceous nose of rosemary, graphite, brown spices, and crushed red fruits. Candied cherry flavors are ringed by a sense of dried leaves, and rhubarb pie. Thanks to great acidity, this wine has a zesty oomph that keeps the flavors alive throughout the lingering finish.

COTTONWOOD WINERY OF OREGON 2012 Pinot Noir, Brigitte Catherine, Dundee Hills Restrained smells of bacon fat, sage, and red fruit take a few moments to emerge, but are soon complemented by lavender potpourri notes. In the mouth the wine is supple and viscid, carrying well-defined red cherry and boysenberry flavors backed by soft tannins. The finish is pleasingly sweet and fruity.

CRUMBLED ROCK 2011 Pinot Noir, Juliard Vineyard, Dundee Hills Herbal scents of dried rosemary and garden soil with cherry fruit aromas and rose blossoms developing in the background. Soft, with red cherry flavors and a restrained style. Finishes nicely with furry tannins and a touch of cola.

DE PONTE CELLARS 2010 Pinot Noir, Meyer Vineyard, Dundee Hills Perfumed herbal scents combine with white fruits on the appealing nose.

Light and tangy on the tongue with dancing flavors of kiwi, lime, and pineapple. The mouth feel is pliant and plush, yet there is a lively freshness to the flavors. A touch of spicy citrus peel appears on the finish.

2011 Pinot Noir, Estate, Dundee Hills Pretty, scarlet color introduces elaborate smells of cherry blossoms, crushed strawberries, freshly-turned earth, and caramel. Equally involved on the palate, flavors of red fruits, ground coffee, cola, and violet pastilles are satisfying. Excellent fresh acidity adds to the charm of this tart, fruity, and elegant wine.

DOBBES FAMILY ESTATE 2010 Pinot Noir, Meyer Vineyard, Dundee Hills Spicy scents of tea leaf and basil envelope a pure core of crushed red fruits on the nose. Velvety in the mouth, the wine bathes the palate with juicy tart strawberry and Bing cherry flavors, with aromatic accents of lavender and rose hips. Gentle acidity and pliable background tannins add to the dried cherry-rich finish.

2009 Pinot Noir, Dundee Cuvée, Dundee Hills Dark purple core color devolves to rose petal red at the rims. Assertive aromas of bright cranberry and strawberry fruits are framed by subtle tar and black tea tones. On the tongue the soft texture contrasts interestingly with forward and fresh flavors of raspberry and pomegranate, with red licorice and cola accents. Full and broad, yet with a lively character that extends throughout the finish.

$33

$60

$54

$33

$25

$55

$65

$65

From The Lange Estate Family of Wines

Explore Rhone Varietal Wines at the new

URBAN WINE LOFT above Red Hills Market in the heart of Dundee.

tasting room hours 11 to 5 / Daily www.domainetrouvere.com / 503.487.6370 155 Southwest Seventh, Dundee, Oregon 97115

Cole Danehower Tasting Notes

DUNDEE HILLS DOMAINE DROUHIN OREGON 2012 Pinot Noir, Drouhin Family Estate, Dundee Hills Gleaming rosy-purple color is eye-catching. Aromas of dried autumn leaves and damp mushrooms contrast delightfully with forward, sweet cherry scents. Beautifully balanced on the palate, flavors of fresh and tart cherry fruit are softened by gentle tannins hanging in the background like a red velvet curtain. The finish is long and fruity with a hint of toast.

2011 Pinot Noir, Laurène, Dundee Hills Puissant perfume of crushed red fruits, black tea, dewy pine needles, and toast keep you coming back for more sniffs. The silky texture and plush heft of the wine on the palate is addicting, and the layered tastes of ripe cherry and blackberry, molasses, anise, and pie crust are compelling.

Superbly balanced throughout the tasting experience.

DOMAINE SERENE

$45

$65

2012 Chardonnay, Evenstad Reserve, Dundee Hills Gleaming golden color leads to deep aromas of ripe peach, pears, and a wet concrete aspect that are alluring in combination. The peach quality shows up delightfully in the mouth, along with a slight bit of pear skin and a citrus peel bite. Deft use of a touch of oak gives the wine weight and character.

$55

2011 Pinot Noir, Evenstad Reserve, Dundee Hills Medium-hued dusky maroon color, with meaty aromas of plum and raspberry fruits accented with a hint of mint, give an initial allure to the wine. Forward sweet/tart red fruit has a mouthwatering brightness and a dulcet rhubarb note on the mid-palate. A succulent and satisfying wine with strong structure and a firm finish.

$65

DOMAINE TROUVÉRE 2010 Chardonnay, Dundee Hills Clean and bright scents of lemon verbena and wet concrete are mouthwatering. Tart lemony flavors have a zippy quality thanks to jaunty acidity.

A touch of rosemary herbs and a citrus peel bite add interest. The finish is lively and lengthy.

DURANT VINEYARDS AT RED RIDGE 2012 Chardonnay, Raven, Dundee Hills Mineral scents of slate and fresh hay are inviting. In the mouth peachy flavors are round and pliable, with sharper lemon curd and orange peel accents. There is a pleasing pear skin bite and verbena mint tone to the finish. This is a wine that has delicacy and power all at once.

2012 Pinot Noir, Bishop, Dundee Hills Heavy aromas of ripe pinot fruit mingle with richly floral notes of rose petals and violets. Soft and lush in the mouth, high-toned, sweetly ripe cherry flavors contrast nicely with the lush mouthfeel and soft tannins in this elegantly restrained wine. The finish has power, with a gentle herb quality adding interest.

ERATH 2011 Pinot Noir, Niederberger, Dundee Hills Clean and pure aromas of ripe red berries shine from a background of soft sage and brown spices. Focused cranberry and cherry fruits are tart, clean, and lean on the palate, but with a pleasing sun-dried fruit leather aspect. Brittle tannins are a touch forward, but really just serve to give the fruit depth. Finishes long with floral potpourri notes.

104

Tasting Notes

PortraitMagazine.com

$28

$25

$65

$50

2011 Pinot Noir, Prince Hill, Dundee Hills Lively rose red color has a vivacious appeal that contrasts with savory scents of molasses and caramel-dipped strawberries. Vibrant cranberry notes shine against an eclectic backdrop of cardamom, tangerine peel, and rhubarb. Pleasingly jaunty and quite complex, stand-up acidity and subtle wood tannins add length to the satisfying finish.

LANGE ESTATE WINERY & VINEYARD 2013 Chardonnay, Estate, Dundee Hills Polished white gold color. Scents of talc and white peach are forward and pretty. In the mouth piercing peach flavors are potent and lively, with a touch of apricot around the edges. There is a creamy texture to this wine, yet the acidity gives the flavors a spirited energy. The finish is lingering and full of fruit. Beautifully made.

2012 Pinot Noir, Lange Estate Vineyard, Dundee Hills Intense and dark purple color gives way to expansive scents of crushed cherries, mint-tinged vanilla, and dried earth. Plush on the palate, ripe flavors of raspberries, cherries, and a touch of blueberry are dense and layered, yet combine with lovely notes of violets. Stand-up (not standout) tannins and sufficient acidity combine with a sweet and floral finish in this full and complex wine.

NATIVE FLORA 2010 Pinot Noir, First Time, Dundee Hills Soft red to burnt umber color with rich scents of basil-accented dried cherries. Red berry fruit flavors are framed with good acidity and structure. A floral undercurrent of rose blossoms gives the finish appeal.

2012 Pinot Noir, Jaguar, Dundee Hills Dark maroon color with purple edges. Smoky aromas include graphite and toast notes hovering above the more gentle red fruit tones. In the mouth the core cherry fruit has an edge of candied lavender combined with a sense of wet leaves. The finish marries red fruits, smoke, and earth.

NYSA VINEYARD 2005 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Dusky maroon color and smells of damp leaves, lavender potpourri, and dried fruit speak to a more mature wine. Fruit-sweet and plush on the palate, raspberry flavors are wrapped in pleasing floral notes. Noticeable tannins on the brightly tart finish.

2006 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Fragrances of burnt brown sugar, cola, and dried plums are savory and intriguing. Remarkably fruit-sweet flavors of raspberry and strawberry are complemented by a sense of licorice and baking spices, with a touch of molasses. Finishes a bit soft, and a tad hot, but with a sustained sense of fruit.

PENNER-ASH WINE CELLARS 2012 Pinot Noir, Bella Vida Vineyard, Dundee Hills Gentle wafts of dried autumn leaves and mint-accented cherry fruit rise from the glass. Supple texture carries bright tastes of pomegranate and strawberry with a subtle earthy quality. Fresh acidity adds verve and pliable tannins give body to the piquant finish.

2012 Pinot Noir, Élevée Vineyard, Dundee Hills Subtle campfire smoke scents blend with smells of cherry pie and cinnamon for an appealing nose. Medium-weight in the mouth, plump and tart blackberry fruit has a sense of force thanks to good acidity and firm structure.

Dried herbs and a tart plum-skin aspect add dimension on the tangy finish.

$50

$65

$70

$45

$68

$75

$55

$65

$65

A Boutique Winery For Serious Wine Lovers

The Dundee Hills Winery Sanctum

Great wine, stunning setting, good humor, and a more personal wine experience.

Tastings by Appointment www.nativeflora.com / 503-504-1990

t

es t a b

lished 1973

t

P R ODUC I NG P R E M I E R WI NE S A N D O L I V E O I L S I N T HE HE A R T O F T HE D U N D E E H I L L S

Estate Grown t Family Owned t Locally Crafted t Distinctly Different t Uniquely Oregon www.RedRidgeFarms.com t 503-864-8502 t 5510 NE Breyman Orchards Rd. t Dayton, OR 97114

Cole Danehower Tasting Notes

DUNDEE HILLS ROCO

2012 Pinot Noir, Knudsen, Dundee Hills Glittering scarlet color and aromas of dried cherries and autumn leaves lead to a mouthful of sweet/tart strawberry and intense red cherry fruitness.

Very polished and pretty, the finely-honed tannins and fresh acidity add verve to the bright flavors, while the finish fairly reverberates with fruit.

SOKOL BLOSSER 2011 Pinot Noir, Estate Cuvée, Dundee Hills Richly aromatic tones of crushed plums, graphite and earth, caramel, rose blossoms, and cola are quite involving. On the tongue, tart tastes of red cherries are clean and bright, yet also weighty and mouth-coating. Lots of herby character adds complexity to the core fruit. Fresh and lively.

2011 Pinot Noir, Goosepen Block, Dundee Hills Spicy aromas are like walking into a warm kitchen at dessert time: fruit and seasonings are everywhere. Lush, sweet, and focused cherry fruit swirls in the mouth with a pleasing ripeness, yet lively acidity gives the wine a spry character while pillowy tannins keeps everything feeling smooth.

SOLÉNA 2012 Pinot Noir, Guadalupe, Dundee Hills Brilliant cardinal red core color with purple rims. Coffee and brown sugar aromas mix with crushed red berries to offer a densely packed set of scents.

Smooth texture delivers dulcet cranberry and red berry compote-like flavors that have a pleasing, uplifting quality. This is a pert pinot with a lot of depth and persistence on the palate.

STOLLER FAMILY ESTATE 2012 Chardonnay, Reserve, Dundee Hills Classic scents of wet stones, dried herbs, and white peach are joined by a pleasing floral high note on the nose. Delicate, yet focused, flavors of white peach and pear have accents of lemongrass, white pepper, and minerality.

Excellent acidity gives the wine a lively freshness, and the lengthy fruit finish makes this a very attractive wine.

$50

$60

$80

$40

$35

2012 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Rich fuchsia-purple color is alluring, while savory scents of bacon fat, black raspberry, and bay laurel lend a pretty, jammy note on the nose.

Lithely textured on the tongue, tasty sweet-tart red cherry flavors are focused and finely tuned. Good structure and echoing flavor give this wine substantial appeal.

$25

2011 Pinot Noir, Reserve, Dundee Hills Maroon core color, softening at the rims, is attractive. Complex aromas of crushed pinot fruit with complementary accents of toast, vanilla, and a subtle but firm earthy undertone. Elegant in the mouth with forward flavors of cherry pie made bright by good acidity and fine tannins. The finish lingers with fruitiness.

$45

THISTLE 2012 Chardonnay, Dundee Hills Glittering golden hue leads to a creamy nose of crushed white berries and pear flesh, with a light note of dried green grass. Flavors of white peach and Asian pear are nicely refined, with a clear stony sense of minerality.

Delicate, yet with verve, this is a well-restrained yet flavor-rich white.

106

Tasting Notes

PortraitMagazine.com

$20

2012 Pinot Noir, The MacDougall, Dundee Hills Herbal notes of dried grass and mown hay combine with cherry cola scents to entice sipping. In the mouth succulent sweet raspberry flavors are plump and forward, ringed with subtle notes of pumpkin leaf and black tea. Good acidity lends verve while the supple texture adds a sensual mouthfeel.

TORII MOR 2012 Pinot Noir, La Colina Vineyard, Dundee Hills Interesting sense of spearmint and smoke on the aromatic herb-accented, red fruit-centered nose. Soft and warming on the palate with cherry flavors offering a gently tart aspect with accents of barrel toast and vanilla. Dusty tannins show on the smoky finish.

2012 Pinot Noir, Select, Dundee Hills Layered notes of red berries, baking spices, and a hint of woodsmoke make the nose aromatically complex. Supple, almost soft on the tongue, the wine delivers pointedly sweet cherry and raspberry flavors with a pleasing floral overlay and molasses background.

WINDERLEA VINEYARD & WINERY 2012 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills Vineyards, Dundee Hills Beautiful scarlet core with purple rims. Deep aromas of damp forest floor, clove, vanilla, and red fruits are layered and broad. On the palate sweet cherry flavors are forward and fresh, with a supple texture, ripe tannins, and a lively acidity that gives the wine sustained energy through an extended finish.

2012 Pinot Noir, Legacy, Dundee Hills Dense maroon color leads to a similarly dense bouquet of toasted spices, plummy fruit smells, and a deep earthy accent —all of which takes a little time to develop. On the palate the wine is packed with velvety and sweet black cherry flavors, surrounded by notes of pencil shavings, fresh-turned garden humus, mushrooms, and black tea. Great balance and power, this is a substantial, almost profound pinot that is still young.

WINTER’S HILL 2013 Pinot Blanc, Dundee Hills Green-gold color with apple skin and broiled peach aromas are inviting.

Brightly sweet/tart flavors of green apple, kiwi, and peach are nicely forward and complex. The fruitiness is heightened by strong acidity, and the palate weight is pleasing. A pinot blanc that is anything but blah!

WINTER’S HILL ESTATE VINEYARD & WINERY

2012 Pinot Noir, Watershed, Dundee Hills Mint and violet scents complement the forward blackberry notes on the fruity nose. Sweetly satisfying ripe berry flavors have an appealing wild aspect as well as a rosy floral high note. The wine has a pleasing density of flavor, with well-balanced acidity, and an earthy edge.

WHITE ROSE ESTATE

2012 Pinot Noir, Guillen Vineyard, Dundee Hills Savory, herbal aromas of woodsmoke, grilled plum, and smoldering autumn leaves promise darker flavors. In the mouth the fruit is plummy and rich with black berry character and whiffs of smoke and earthy graphite. Pliable texture has good freshness, soft tannins, and a long finish that sustains fruit flavors well.

$40

$60

$45

$38

$75

$17

$25

$70

experience a l ove f o r pinot noir t h at b e g a n o v e r

25 y e a r s a g o ro o t e d i n t h e h e a r t o f t h e

dundee hills Si n c e 1 9 8 7

tasting room open daily | 11 am - 5 pm 18380 ne buena vista drive dundee, or 97115 503.538.6476

www. langewinery.com

IN THE HEART OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST WINTER, WHEN THE SKY IS PAINTED OYSTER GREY, THERE IS GOOD REASON TO VENTURE OUTSIDE AND BRAVE THE WINDSWEPT RAIN. HIDDEN BENEATH THE FERTILE SOILS OF THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY, YOU CAN DISCOVER ONE OF OREGON’S BEST KEPT CULINARY RICHES

HUNTING THE GREAT

OregonTruffle

WRITTEN BY Kerry Newberry PHOTOGRAPHED BY Greg Kozawa

IT’S LATE AUTUMN, and

we are on the hunt for

culinary gold—Oregon truffles. Elusive. Beguiling. Fleeting.

Just a few of the terms used to describe the captivating mushrooms, coveted for their umami essence.

The morning begins chasing Christopher Czarnecki, a fourth-generation chef and restaurateur from the Joel Palmer House in Dayton. Past sleepy, bucolic towns of the Willamette Valley, up gravel-strewn roads into the forested hills above the Valley we follow his license plate, which reads: Fungi. He leads us to a private Douglas fir forest, draped in a garland of wispy fog. I find myself standing at the edge of the forest with Vitaly Paley, the chef-owner of Paley’s Place and Imperial Restaurant in Portland and one of the pioneers of farm-to-table dining in the Pacific Northwest. Today is the first truffle foray for us both, so we listen for tips, and zip up raingear before venturing into the

“The first sign I’m looking for is animal activity,” says Czarnecki. We scan the damp earth for holes around the base of a tree, where scurrying moles, voles or squirrels stash the coveted edible riches. He pauses, “something was definitely just digging right here.” The chef leans forward and lightly scratches the duff from under a Douglas fir tree with a four-prong garden rake. With the softest touch, chocolate earth crumbles toward our rubber boots.

Tolkien-like terrain.

The three of us stalk across ochre pine needles and over moss-drenched tree roots. We are deep in a Douglas fir forest where the air is soaked with the scent of pine. A wispy fog garlands the evergreens, adding mystique to our hunt for buried treasure.

110

PortraitMagazine.com

TOP LEFT Truffles thrive in anthropogenic habitats, or human created habitats.

Pictured here, a former Christmas tree farm populated with 15-25 year-old Douglas fir trees—exactly where truffles like to grow. TOP RIGHT Christopher Czarnecki and Vitaly Paley lightly raking the fir-duff. BOTTOM Czarnecki of the Joel Palmer House says the amount of mud you leave the forest covered in is an indicator of how successful a day you’ve had truffle hunting.

TRUFFLE DOGS Private truffle forays “Infectious isn’t it?” muses Paley, who, like Czarnecki is eager to unearth culinary gold this morning.

Chefs prize these jewels of the forest for their umami essence, and ancient lore proclaims this earthy fungus an aphrodisiac.

“They can, on certain occasions, make women more tender and men more lovable,” wrote Alexandre Dumas.

Small but precious, truffles are spore-bearing fungi that live their entire lives underground. Animals such as grey squirrels and chipmunks dig up and eat the truffles, serving as the main dispensers of its spores. Oregon truffles develop in symbiosis with trees, and grow throughout the Northwest in low-elevation Douglas fir forests, from northern California to southern British Columbia. The fungi thrive in semi-cultivated environments, places like this. Tidy tree trunks surround us, reaching up to the sky as straight as arrows. A growing pattern indicating this forest was once a Christmas tree farm. “It was intentionally planted and that’s the environment that the truffles like,” says Czarnecki.

Of the 30 Northwest truffle species, only three are harvested for culinary use—two

ENTER YOUR DOG IN THE JORIAD™ Amateur truffle hunting dogs are invited to compete in the first annual JORIAD™ North American Truffle Dog Championship at the Oregon Truffle Festival, Jan 21-22, 2015.

(

Lulu locates a truffle with handler Michael Baines of Umami Truffle Dogs.

)

To see if your dog qualifies to enter the Joriad™ go to:

oregontrufflefestival.com TRUFFLE DOG TRAINING AT OTF Most dogs can be trained to hunt truffles.

In fact “K9 nosework” (scent training) classes are sweeping the country as a new sporting event and truffles are just one example of what a dog might be trained to hunt. The Oregon Truffle Festival truffle dog training seminar, Jan 23-24 starts in the classroom, includes introductory training for both you and your dog, and ends on a hunt for wild Oregon truffles in their natural habitat.

whites and a black. We are in pursuit of

Umami Truffle Dogs

the winter white (Tuber oregonense). At its peak, the white truffle carries aromas of

A Eugene-based company, Umami Truffle Dogs offers private forays hunting Oregon truffles during peak season (late November through May) in the forest foothills of the Cascade Range and on private properties between

earth, herbs, garlic, and an almost petrol-

McMinnville and Eugene. Forays for up to 8 people range from two to four

like note. The provocative fragrance is just

hours per outing. The best part, participants not only learn the art and

part of the allure. As British author Elisa-

science of truffle hunting, they also share in the finds of the day. Umami Truffle Dogs is the Pacific Northwest’s largest harvester and purveyor of

beth Luard writes in her book Truffles, part

canine-detected Oregon truffles, catering to chefs and customers around

of the magic of the mushroom is how it

the country. Learn more at: umamitruffledogs.com

evades us: “Let me put the case for treasuring the truffle. Leaving aside culinary considerations, the truffle is not just a fragrance, a flavor, a face—though all these

WHAT’S OUT THERE?

things contribute to its allure—it’s a nugget

POPULAR OREGON TRUFFLES

of vegetable matter searching, as must all living things, for a niche in which it can thrive. And its niche is remarkably specific.

Let one thing fall out of line, and the whole enterprise falters and fails.”

Taking her words to heart, we change direction in the Tolkien-like terrain, skating

Oregon Black Leucangium carthusianum Oregon Brown Kalapuya brunnea Oregon Winter White Tuber oregonense Oregon Spring White Tuber gibbosum

Happy Foragers Unlike the formal European truffle forays, Oregon truffle hunting frequently requires layered rain gear, sturdy boots and waterproof gardening gloves for digging in the rich forest soils. Matt Haskins and Kate Duke of Atlanta, Georgia came to Oregon in the dead of winter solely for a “truffles, wine and food tour”.

PortraitMagazine.com

111

across moss and fallen leaves to cover new ground.

CHRISTOPHER CZARNECKI

Standing about ten feet apart, we each cast our rake

A fourth generation chef and restaurateur, Christopher Czarnecki is the executive chef at the Joel Palmer House in Dayton, where the cuisine is built around wild mushrooms. The destination restaurant is housed in a historic home and is on the National Register of Historic Places and the Oregon Historic Register.

“Sometimes you find them right away,” says Czarnecki,

across a bed of fir needles, and pray for mushrooms. “other times they make you really look for them.” If you find one truffle near a tree, you’ll usually find more, he adds. The chef sweeps the soil a few times before sidling up to the next tree. Across the path, Chef Paley likens the truffle hunt to foraging for morels, a mushroom with similarly elusive properties. “Once you find one, you find a whole field of them,” he says.

“They reveal themselves to you.”

Czarnecki knows the cat-and-mouse game well. He forages for mushrooms at least once a month, an activity pursued since he was seven years old. “My father always describes himself as a mushroom hunter who likes to cook,” he says. (His father Jack, a celebrated chef, also wrote the James Beard Award–winning cookbook: A Cook's Book of Mushrooms).

Most of the areas he and his father forage are on private property, where his family has long-standing relationships with the landowners. “They let us hunt truffles and we buy them dinner at the Joel Palmer House,” says Czarnecki. Who could resist such a deal?

Especially as the story of Oregon truffles unfurls. Historically, when gourmands would vet Oregon truffles against the famous French black (Perigord) and Italian whites from Alba, they looked down their nose at Oregon. Czarnecki attributes this to premature harvesting, when truffles are plucked before their maturation phase. Truffles fruit and ripen underground; when harvested too early, they lack their beguiling aromatics and have little culinary use. As local foragers and chefs learn the necessity of harvesting mature, ripe truffles— usually in the heart of winter, the perception of Oregon truffles is changing. One example of this is market value and demand, both of which continue to soar each year. In 2015, the market price for the Oregon winter white truffle is expected to reach $560/lb., up from $120/lb. a few years ago. The high price translates in the kitchen, where this indulgent ingredient dresses up dishes from risotto to ravioli, and elevates fare from satisfying to sublime.

Our quest for the heavenly taste continues, as the three

ABOVE Czarnecki is continuing his family's legacy of fine cuisine, great

mushroom hunting and world-class wines. His father, Jack Czarnecki, who retired from the Joel Palmer House in 2008, offers his own line of all-natural truffle oils made entirely from wild Oregon truffles. If fresh truffles are not available, using a truffle oil is a good alternative.

of us, plus the truffle-dog-in-training, crest a hill, then scatter throughout the fir forest. “We could cover all the trees in this area, and not find one truffle,” says Czarnecki, “yet be standing just ten feet away from where they are actually growing.” This promise of discovery fuels us. Imagine if truffles frolic beneath the

112

PortraitMagazine.com

SAUCE 1/4 onion, sliced thin 1T dry white wine 1t lemon juice 1c heavy cream Ground white pepper, cayenne and salt Fresh truffles or 2T truffle butter Parmesan 1. Bring wine and lemon juice to simmer with onion, dash of cayenne, salt and white pepper 2. Once onions have become translucent, strain them out and add heavy cream to pot 3. Reduce until sauce can coat a spoon, add heavy cream if overthickened 4. Add cooked pasta and truffle/ truffle butter 5. Plate pasta 6. Place butter-poached lobster on top of pasta 7. Top with Parmesan, fresh sliced truffle, garnish with fennel

LOBSTER two 1.5 lb Maine lobsters 1t salt 1/2 lemon 1T white wine vinegar 1 bay leaf 2 lbs butter 1. Bring enough water to submerge to boil, add lemon, bay leaf, vinegar, salt, then add lobster 2. Cook, covered for 5 minutes 3. De-shell meat from tail, claws, knuckles, and legs (leg meat optional) 4. Slowly melt 2 lbs butter in pot, add truffle 5. Add lobster meat ensuring that butter temperature does not exceed 140ยบF

Angel Hair Pasta with Maine Lobster Truffle Sauce Recipe by CHEF CHRISTOPHER CZARNECKI

Joel Palmer House

very ground we stand on. As Czarnecki sifts soil, he details how white truffles will roll right out of the earth with a few soft rakes. Although truffles grow underground, the white truffles, especially, are found very close to the surface,

What’s the secret? As we scrabble over to one last section

where the soil is looser. That’s one reason why the chef em-

of forest, it’s clear we are likely to return to the kitchen

phasizes the importance of delicate raking. When done

empty-handed. Yet, when we leave, we will continue to

lightly, raking aerates the soil, churning the decaying matter

covet this strange and wonderful, sensual and sub-rosa in-

back into the ground. Vigorous raking can tear the roots

gredient. Is it the elusiveness that enhances its mystique?

from trees, destroying the truffle harvest for next year.

“Isn’t it human nature,” says Paley, “to go after things that

“With foraging comes a responsibility and stewardship to

are hard to get?”

the forest,” says Czarnecki.

That answer satisfies until we drive back to the Joel Palmer

Behind the clouds, the silvery light of autumn’s sun glints

House, where Czarnecki fortuitously has one black truffle

higher in the sky. Without rain, we trekked longer than

on-hand. In the kitchen, both chefs whip up a dish—a

planned, and the hours sailed by. For a moment, we stand

classic oeufs brouillés à la truffe, and pasta with lobster.

in the lush forest, and it’s serenely quiet. The only sound

Each dish graced with chiffon-like slivers of Oregon black

is the rhythmic tip-tap of dew on the tree branches. Then

truffle. All it took was one bite from each plate. Little bites

Czarnecki shouts: Bingo! And he falls to the ground. And

of heaven. And then the secret was revealed.

he digs. He rises to his knees, holding what looks like a small, dirt-covered potato between two fingers. Czarnecki sniffs; checking aroma first, next color, then firmness. “It’s a false truffle,” he says with lament. Even though the find was an imposter, both chefs are exhilarated.

114

PortraitMagazine.com

TOP Joel Palmer House’s wine list focuses on Oregon wines, with many selections from local artisan producers. Pinot noir is the heart of the list, with over 500 individual pinots from which to choose. Following the truffle forage, Czarnecki asked Paley to lend his signature to the JP wall of fame descending to the restaurant’s wine cellar, an honored area long-held exclusively for Oregon winemakers.

Oeufs brouillés à la truffe Recipe by CHEF VITALY PALEY

I learned this recipe (more of a technique then a recipe really) in France while working as a stagier at a Michelin starred restaurant. In season it was served as a beginning course to every guest that dined there. The egg’s sole purpose was to express the truffle.

The eggs were snipped to order, the brioche was cut and toasted on the spot. The truffle was sliced paper thin and, along with a knob of good butter, shavings were incorporated into the eggs. Then under chef’s watchful eye this glorious mixture was stirred over a low flame, gently spooned back into their shells and, bien sur, garnished with more truffles. There are a million ways to serve an egg but this one is pure magic.

There are tools to snip the top of the egg. Still I prefer a sharp knife.

Be patient as It may take a few tries to get it right. Of course feel free to skip this fancy touch. There is no shame in simply spooning the truffle scramble over toasted brioche for a very fine result.

One inch thick slices of brioche, crusts removed 4 eggs 2 tablespoons truffle butter sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons creme fraiche several chive spears chopped very fine plus more cut into 1 inch lengths for garnish 1 small black or white truffle sliced thin for garnish (optional)

VITALY PALEY

{

Vitaly Paley is the chef and owner of Paley's Place and Imperial Restaurant. He received a James Beard award for Best Chef Northwest in 2005 and is the co-author of The Paley's Place Cookbook. He’s also the creator and chef of DaNet, a Russian Pop-up Dinner series.

fles f u r T and Buckwheat Crêpe s Stuffed with Turnips

Recipe by CHEF VITALY PALEY RECIPE FOLLOWS ON PAGE 119

TO DRINK The lovely berry flavor of Cabernet Franc, fruity with a dry finish, shines through in Olga Raffault’s Chinon Rosé from France, forming a perfect bond with the buttery brioche, sweet crabmeat, and decadent truffles.

The locally produced Soter North Valley Rosé, made from Pinot Noir grapes, is refreshing with raspberry overtones. It complements the sandwich nicely.

Truffled Crab Melt Recipe by CHEF VITALY PALEY

Truffled Crab Melt (serves 4)

I’ve served this decadent variation of that diner favorite the tuna melt as part of an elegant lunch or cut in bite-sized pieces as an hors d’oeuvre. It is definitely fun, not at all fussy or difficult. A goodquality purchased mayonnaise will do nicely here, but if you like, try homemade aioli (recipe follows).

We use an Italian sheep’s milk cheese, Boschetto al Tartufo, for its intense truffle taste and good melting qualities. Swiss Gruyère, which is easy to find, works as well. If fresh truffles are not in season, substitute frozen ones. Truffle butter is available at specialty food stores or online.

Buckwheat Crêpes Stuffed with Turnips and Truffles (serves 6) We like to offer guests a new view of humble vegetables—in this case, turnips. We cook the turnips in butter with shallots and honey, then elevate them with truffles. Once the crêpes are filled, we dip them in egg and pan-fry them until crispy. The resulting packet is a surprise of flavors, textures, and aromas.

Buckwheat flour in the batter produces a slightly sturdier crêpe that will better hold the stuffing and stand up to frying. Because making crêpes can be tricky, this recipe produces more than you’ll need here.

1/2 cup buckwheat flour

4 thick slices brioche or challah 4 teaspoons truffle butter, melted 1/2 pound Oregon Dungeness crabmeat, squeezed dry and picked over 2 ounces fresh Oregon black truffle, brushed clean and coarsely chopped

1 cup all-purpose flour 6 large eggs 2 cups milk, plus more if needed 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted, plus 3/4 cup, melted, to fry the crêpes 3 tablespoons truffle butter

1 apple, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

2 shallots, thinly sliced

Generous dash of Tabasco

1 large Oregon black or white truffle (about 2 ounces), coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons finely minced sweet red onion 2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley Juice of 1/2 lime 1/4 cup aioli Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 ounces truffle cheese, such as Boschetto al Tartufo, shredded (about 1 cup shredded)

Preheat the broiler. Brush one side of the brioche slices with the truffle butter and set on a baking sheet, buttered side up. Toast the bread until golden, about 3 minutes. Remove the toasts and turn the oven temperature to 400°F. In a bowl, mix the crabmeat with the chopped truffle, sliced apple, Tabasco, onion, parsley, and lime juice. Fold in the aioli to incorporate. Season with salt and pepper.

Top the toasts, buttered side down, with the crab salad and sprinkle with the cheese. Bake in the upper third of the oven until the crab salad has warmed through and the cheese has melted, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately.

1 pound turnips, peeled and coarsely grated 1/3 cup honey 1/2 cup cider vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 cups chicken stock

To make the crêpe batter, sift the flours with a pinch of salt into a bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour and add 3 of the eggs. Using a whisk, slowly incorporate the flour into the eggs so the batter develops without lumps. Add 1 cup of the milk, whisking until smooth, then remaining 1 cup milk, and 1 tablespoon of the melted butter. Cover and set the mixture aside for 30 minutes at room temperature.

stuffing can be done a day in advance and refrigerated until ready.

To cook the crêpes, heat a 10-inch nonstick crêpe pan or skillet over high heat until hot, about 5 minutes.

Brush the pan with melted butter. Remove from the heat and pour 1/4 cup of the batter into the center of the pan, rotating the pan so the batter runs evenly to the edges in a thin layer. Return the pan to the heat. Cook the crêpe until the edges brown, about 2 minutes. Slip a flexible spatula under the crêpe, carefully flip it over, and cook on the other side for 30 seconds. Transfer the cooked crêpe to a plate. Repeat until all the batter is used, stacking the crêpes as they are done.

To stuff the crêpes, place one on a work surface, set a generous spoonful of turnip-truffle mixture in the center, and spread it to within 1 inch of the edge of the crêpe. Fold the filled crêpe in half and then in half again. Repeat with the remaining crêpe and stuffing.

Preheat the oven to 200°F. Place the remaining 3 eggs in a shallow pie plate, beat them with a fork, and have ready. To fry the crêpes, heat 2 tablespoons of the melted butter in a large nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Carefully dip one stuffed, folded crêpe into the beaten eggs, turning it to coat on all sides. Lift the crêpe with your fingers, allowing excess egg to drip back into the bowl, and place the crêpe in the hot skillet. Fry until crisp and browned on both sides, 45 seconds to 1 minute per side. Transfer to a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while cooking the rest. Repeat the procedure, using more melted butter as needed to fry the remaining crêpes.

Serve hot.

METHOD PHOTOS ONLINE PORTRAIT MAGAZINE/RECIPES

To make the stuffing, in a large skillet, melt the truffle butter over medium heat without browning.

Add the shallots and truffle, and cook until the shallots are translucent but not colored, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the turnips, honey, and cider vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Add the stock and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to mix the ingredients.

Decrease the heat to low, cover, and simmer very gently, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking and browning, until the turnips are very soft, about 1 hour. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Transfer the stuffing to a bowl and set aside to cool. The

PortraitMagazine.com

119

Tru ffled hen

leg wi th

leeks, sp

aghettini, b lack pepper & truffle butter Recipe by CHEF JASON FRENCH RECIPE FOLLOWS ON PAGE 122

TO DRINK The protein neutrality of this dish lends itself to red or white wine. There are so many great wineries in Oregon, but one of the region’s best producers is Jason Lett and the team at Eyrie Vineyards. Eyrie’s 2013 Estate Chardonnay or 2012 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir will balance the richness of the dish without diminishing the aromatic and flavor of the truffles.

JASON  FRENCH

{

Jason French is the chef and owner of Ned Ludd, a Northeast Portland craft kitchen fueled by a mighty wood-fired oven. On Mondays, the restaurant hosts a hip-hop pizza night called Pizza Monday.

Most recently, he opened Elder Hall, an event and gathering space offering craft cooking classes and a supper series.

Truffled Hen Leg With Leeks, Spaghettini, Black Pepper & Truffle Butter (serves 4-6) 4 hen legs, skin on 2 leeks 4-6 oz fresh Oregon Black truffle 1/2 lb softened butter Small bunch thyme 1 box spaghetti, or 1 lb fresh pasta 1/2 cup white wine juice of 1 lemon good quality parmesan cheese for grating Salt & pepper to taste

METHOD 1. Preheat an oven to 425°F. Chop the truffles, reserving one truffle for slicing. Mix 1/2 the chopped truffles with 1/2 the softened butter.

Season with a pinch of salt and pepper.

2. Thinly slice leek greens and wash under cold water to remove excess dirt. Place in a roasting pan. Strip thyme leaves from the stem. Add cup of white wine to pan.

3. Pull the skin back off of the chicken. Season the chicken flesh with salt & pepper. Spread truffle butter on the chicken flesh. Replace skin back over meat and place legs over the chopped leek tops in the pan. Cover the pan with parchment paper and foil.

4. Place the chicken on the top rack of the oven and bake for 15 minutes, reduce the heat to 300°F and continue to bake for 40 minutes. Remove the foil and parchment for the last 20 minutes.

5. While the chicken cooks, bring well seasoned pasta water to a boil. Thinly slice the white of the leek and saute in the remaining butter. Cook the pasta and drain and add to the sautéed leeks. Add the remaining chopped truffles and toss with lemon. Divide amongst 4 plates.

6. Remove the chicken and place a leg on the pasta on each plate. Spoon any juices from the pan over the chicken, grate the cheese over the pasta and shave the truffle to finish.

“There are so many great wineries in Oregon right now but one of the region’s best producers is Jason Lett and the team at Eyrie Vineyards. They are a vital part of the great storytelling and great wine that complements the natural bounty of the region and the amazing fabric of our culinary community.” ~Jason French, Ned Ludd

122

PortraitMagazine.com

HERE’S A FEW EVENTS NOT TO MISS AT THE OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL

2015 OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL Jan 15-25, 2015 oregontrufflefestival.com

Better Together: Black & White Dinner Series Portland, Jan 15-18, 2015 (Choose from three restaurants). The chef lineup includes Vitaly Paley, chef/owner of Paley’s Place and Imperial Restaurant; Jason French, chef/owner of Ned Ludd and Elder Hall; and Executive Chef Sarah Schafer of Irving Street Kitchen.

(

Walk on the Wild Side – Portland Friday Jan 16, 6:30-9:30pm (World Forestry Center) Friday Night Walk Around Chef Showcase and Oregon Truffle Celebration. Oregon and Northwest chefs will each showcase two dishes of Oregon black and white truffles.

Chefs include: Elias Cairo, Olympic Provisions (Portland), Jason Wilson, Crush (Seattle); Jason Stoller Smith, Timberline Lodge (Mount Hood); Stephanie Kimmel, Marché (Eugene); Justin Wills, Restaurant Beck (Depoe Bay); Tyler Malek, Salt & Straw (Portland); Gregory Gourdet, Departure Restaurant + Lounge (Portland); Brian McCracken and Dana Tough, Spur Gastropub (Seattle)

Walk on the Wild Side – Eugene Friday Jan 23, 6:30-9:30pm (Emerald Valley Resort) Walk Around Tasting/Pairing. Chefs will prepare small plates of both Oregon black and white truffles, paired with Oregon wine, beer and spirits.

Oregon Truffle Festival Cooking Class Eugene, Sunday Jan 25, 2-4:30pm Oregon Truffle Marketplace – Newberg Sunday Jan 18, 11am-4pm (Chehalem Cultural Center) Event includes truffle tastings, artisan foods, fresh truffles, a truffle dog demonstration, and lecture series.

Oregon Truffle Marketplace – Eugene Sunday Jan 25, 11am-4pm (Hilton Eugene) (see above)

For the complete schedule of events, go to: oregontrufflefestival.com

)

Handpicked in Oregon 100% Natural oregontruffleoil.com From Jack Czarnecki’s kitchen at the Joel Palmer House in Dayton, Oregon comes the first allnatural truffle oil ever produced in the United States. Made entirely from wild Oregon truffles, this unique product with its rich, sumptuous flavor and aroma will enhance your larder with a truly unique culinary treasure.

Oregon Black Truffle Oil can at first come across in the nose as excessively pungent, earthy and organic.

Upon aeration aromas of chocolate, coconut, and pineapple begin to show themselves along with their earthy qualities.

Oregon White Truffle Oil is floral and herbal with strong hints of garlic and onion grass and even lychee. However, it may first smell like petrol. Some people experience an aroma like old oil and some smell nothing at all.

© Langdon Cook

Oregon Truffle Festival’s Grand Truffle Dinner

What to expect: Like wine, truffle oil benefits from some aeration to show off its complex and beguiling aromas.

© Langdon Cook

Truffle-topia A week long celebration of all things truffle!

Celebrating all things truffles, Oregon Truffle Festival, now in its 10th year, expands to two weekends of festivities Jan 15-25 with culinary events in Yamhill wine country and Portland in addition to Eugene, where it all began. Attendees will find many epicurean opportunities ranging from informal dining and wine tastings to gourmet multi-course luncheons and dinners. Over 50 top chefs from around the country will be preparing extraordinary truffle dishes paired with wines and spirits throughout the festival. Events include forums on growing and harvesting truffles, cooking classes, “hands-on” foraging expeditions, truffle dog training classes and the first ever “JORIAD” National Truffle Dog Championship. The event attracts national and international truffle experts, chefs, cookbook and foraging authors, food and wine enthusiasts and lots of press.

BUYING FRESH TRUFFLES Oregon truffles are generally available from November to March, but are not always for sale at the market so it's best to buy them as soon as you see them. Fresh, mature truffles will have a delicious odor and be nearly firm to the touch. Look for floral and fruity notes in black truffles and spicy scents in white truffles. Avoid any truffles reminiscent of ammonia or with soft spots as they are probably old.

Taking care not to bruise the truffles, use them right away for optimal flavor or wrap them in paper towels and refrigerate for 2-3 days. When you are ready to prepare your mushroom meal, keep in mind that you don’t cook the truffle itself as heat destroys the delicate flavors. Instead, try shaving or grating the truffle into your recipe. And a little goes a long way, so paper-thin shavings or delicately sliced rounds are plenty for most recipes.

PortraitMagazine.com

123

locavore

The Passion of Pazzo Lunch, Happy Hour & Dinner Daily l Weekend Brunch 503.228.1515 l pazzo.com l 627 SW Washington l Portland

l

THE DISH

Foodie’s Bookshelf The Mushroom Hunters: On the Trail of an Underground America

A Dining Oasis In The Heart of The City

The legendary

1220 SW FIRST AVENUE

Veritable Quandary

WWW.VERITABLEQUANDARY.COM

503 227 7342

by Langdon Cook (Random House, also as Audio App)

In the dark corners of America’s forests grow culinary treasures.

Chefs pay top dollar to showcase these elusive and beguiling ingredients on their menus. The mushroom hunters, by contrast, are a rough lot. They live in the wilderness and move with the seasons.

Motivated by Gold Rush desires, they haul improbable quantities of fungi from the woods for cash.

Langdon Cook embeds himself in this shadowy subculture, reporting from both rural fringes and big-city eateries with the flair of a novelist, uncovering along the way what might be the last gasp of frontier-style capitalism. Meet Doug, an ex-logger and crabber — now an itinerant mushroom picker; Jeremy, a former cook turned wild-food entrepreneur, crisscrossing the continent to build a business amid cutthroat competition. Rich with the science and lore of edible fungi. The Mushroom Hunters is equal parts gonzo travelogue and culinary history lesson, a rollicking, character-driven tour through a world that is by turns secretive, dangerous, and tragically American.

Fat of the Land: Adventures of a 21st-Century Forager

by Langdon Cook (Mountaineers Books)

Langdon Cook is not just your typical grocery cart-toting dad.

For him, gourmet delicacies abound, free for the taking if we just open our eyes. As a result, he finds himself free-diving in icy Puget Sound in hopes of spearing a snaggletooth lingcod, armed with nothing more than a "Hawaiian sling." He bushwhacks through rugged mountain forests in search of edible mushrooms. In wry, detailed prose, he traces his journey from wrangler of prepackaged calories to connoisseur of coveted wild edibles. Structured around the seasons of the year, each chapter focuses on a specific food type and concludes with a recipe featuring the author's hard-won bounty, a savory stop to each adventure-filled morsel.

The Farm to Table Cookbook The Art of Eating Locally

by Ivy Manning (Sasquatch)

Ivy Manning offers this spectacular collection of recipes, including special dishes from some of the most touted Northwest chefs and restaurants — Tilth, Wildwood, and Crush, among others — that have made their marks using the freshest local ingredients. Organized by season,with such dishes as Fresh Pea and Pancetta Risotto, Seared Scallops with Creamed Ramps and Black Truffles, and Blackberry Hazelnut Crisp.

POUR . PLATE . INDULGE .

Breakfast, Lunch Happy Hour & Dinner Daily + Weekend Brunch + 503.222.0005 redstartavern.com 503 S.W. Alder Street Portland, Oregon

RESOURCES & INSPIRATION

ADVERTISER INDEX All Classical .................................................. 44 Argyle Winery ............................................ 101

H O M E

G A R D E N

T R A V E L

A N D

L I F E S T Y L E

Atiyeh Bros. ................................................ 6-7

M A G A Z I N E

Portrait

FASHION & JEWELERS

TM

AU SALON ausalon.com HUNTING THE GREAT

Oregon Truffle

MARGULIS JEWELERS margulis.com

CHEFS FAVORITE RECIPES

KITCHEN, BATH & ARCHITECTURAL MATERIALS

Au Salon ...................................................... 38

PARR LUMBER / JELD-WEN parr.com

BASCO Appliances ...................................... 4-5 Bella Casa .................................................... 20

REAL ESTATE

Dundee Hills

WINES

FINANCIAL SERVICES

Tasting notes for 50 current releases

BANK OF THE WEST bankofthewest.com

PortraitMagazine.com

Exclusive Interview

Great Finds!

Classic Updates

Mitchell Gold and Bob Williams

The Latest in Home Decor

Inspired Design + Remodels

$5.95 US

FLOOR COVERINGS ATIYEH BROS. atiyehbros.com

Bank of the West .......................................... 15

COSMOPOLITAN ON THE PARK cosmopolitanpearl.com O’DONNELL GROUP REALTY odonnellgrouprealty.com TONY RESER, KIDDER MATHEWS kiddermathews.com/professionals/ reser-tony.php

Bonneville Hot Springs Resort & Spa .......... 125 Chown Hardware .......................................... 44 Cornell Farm ................................................ 10 Cosmopolitan on the Park ............................ 87 Devine Color ................................................ 36 Domaine Trouvere ...................................... 103 Durant Vineyards ........................................ 105

RESTAURANTS

APPLIANCES & FIREPLACES

GARDEN CENTER & NURSERY

BASCO Appliances bascoappliances.com

CORNELL FARM cornellfarms.com

EASTBANK CONTRACTOR APPLIANCES eastbankappliance.com

HOME FURNISHINGS

RED STAR TAVERN AND ROAST HOUSE redstartavern.com

ANTHROPOLOGIE anthropologie.com

SOUTHPARK SEAFOOD southparkseafood.com

ARTERIORS arteriorshome.com

VERITABLE QUANDARY veritblequandary.com

Jason Ball Interiors ...................................... 24

TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT

Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards ............ 107

LISAC’S FIREPLACES & STOVES lisacsfireplaces.com ARCHITECTS, DESIGNERS & CONTRACTORS ENERGY TRUST OF OREGON energytrust.org GIULIETTI/SCHOUTEN ARCHITECTS gsarchitects.net JASON BALL INTERIORS jasonballinteriors.com MAISON INC maisoninc.com OLSON & JONES CONSTRUCTION olsonandjones.com ROOM SERVICE HOME TECHNOLOGIES goroomservice.com WENDY O’BRIEN INTERIOR PLANNING & DESIGN wendyobrienid.com WING RIDGE CONSTRUCTION wingridge.com AUTO DEALERS JIM FISHER VOLVO jimfishervolvo.com FABRIC, PAINT & WALL COVERINGS DEVINE COLOR devinecolor.com DURALEE duralee.com MILL END STORE millendstore.com RODDA PAINT roddapaint.com

BEDFORD BROWN bedfordbrown.com BELLA CASA bellacasa.net CURREY & CO curreycodealers.com HIP ubhip.com MITCHELL GOLD + BOB WILLIAMS mgbwhome.com PARKER FURNITURE parker-furniture.com PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS pendleton-usa.com PLEASE BE SEATED pleasebeseatedpdx.com PORTLAND FURNITURE portlandfurnitureonline.com RESTORATION HARDWARE restorationhardware.com ROCHE BOBOIS PORTLAND roche-bobois.com KITCHEN, BATH & ARCHITECTURAL MATERIALS CHOWN HARDWARE chown.com ELEMAR OREGON elemaroregon.com INFINITY COUNTERTOPS infinitycountertops.com MCCOY MILLWORK mccoymillwork.com

PAZZO RISTORANTE pazzo.com

ALL CLASSICAL allclassical.org BONNEVILLE HOT SPRINGS RESORT & SPA bonnevilleresort.com OREGON OLIVE MILL redridgefarms.com

Eastbank Contractor Appliances .................. IBC EleMar Oregon.............................................. 43 Energy Trust of Oregon.................................. 11 Giulietti/Schouten Architects ........................ 26 HIP .............................................................. 33 Infinity Countertops ...................................... 19

Jim Fisher Volvo............................................ 17

Lisac’s Fireplaces & Stoves .......................... 86 Maison, Inc. .................................................. 26 Margulis Jewelers ........................................ 35 McCoy Millwork ............................................ 25 Mill End Store .............................................. 82 Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams ........................ BC

OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL oregontrufflefestival.com

Native Flora ................................................105

RED RIDGE FARMS redridgefarms.com

Olson & Jones Construction ............................ 9

SISTERS COFFEE sisterscoffee.com WHALE COVE INN whalecoveinn.com

O’Donnell Group Realty .................................. 3

Oregon Olive Mill ........................................105 Parr Lumber / JELD-WEN ............................ IFC Pazzo Ristorante ........................................124 Please Be Seated.......................................... 35

WINERIES

Portland Furniture ........................................ 24

ARGYLE WINERY argylewinery.com

Red Ridge Farms ........................................ 105

DOMAINE TROUVERE domainetrouvere.com

Roche Bobois Portland .................................. 13

DURANT VINEYARDS redridgefarms.com LANGE ESTATE WINERY AND VINEYARDS langewinery.com

Red Star Tavern .......................................... 125

Rodda Paint .................................................... 8 Room Service Home Technologies ................ 81 Southpark Seafood .................................... 125 Tony Reser, Kidder Mathews ........................ 80

NATIVE FLORA nativeflora.com

Veritable Quandary .................................... 124

WINDERLEA VINEYARD AND WINERY winderlea.com

Whale Cove Inn ............................................ 38

WINTER’S HILL ESTATE wintershillwine.com

Wendy O’Brien Interior Design ...................... 79

Winderlea Vineyard and Winery .................... 88 Wing Ridge Construction .............................. 80 Winter’s Hill Estate ......................................101

126

PortraitMagazine.com

Portrait

TM

MAGAZINE

SET THE MOOD

fea turi ng O U R FA L L 2 014 CO L L E C T I O N

1106 West Burnside Street / Corner of W. Burnside and SW 11 Ave. / 503.972.5000 Complimentary Parking Validation at PMC (12th and Couch) / www.mgbwhome.com Featuring: BARDOT SOFA in boulevard-café, JAMES CHAIR in billiard-gargoyle, MELROSE RECTANGLE COCKTAIL TABLE, MELROSE SIDE TABLE, LOG PULL-UP TABLE in silver leaf, DELANO LAMP, ASTON MIRROR in smoked glass, SHIMMER RUG in parchment, ANGLED CONE VASE in smoke mirror glass, CLEAR GLASS BALLS in assorted sizes and styles