Wroclaw In Your Pocket - September - December 2019

Maps

Events

Sightseeing

Restaurants

Nightlife

Shopping

Hotels

Wrocław

No. 46, September – December 2019

City Guide

Jewish Wrocław

p.40

Wrocław for Kids & Families

p.50

Traditional Polish Dishes

p.54

Your coolest souvenir from Wrocław - clothes, accessories & collectible pins.

Contents

Wrocław

Calm on the Oder River. | Photo by Jar.ciurus, CC BY-SA 3.0 PL

Events 12

Nightlife

72

Arrival & Transport

18

Shopping

80

Sightseeing

24

Services Directory

88

Old Town Walking Tour Ostrów Tumski Centennial Hall & Surrounds Jewish Wrocław Gnomes

26 32 36 40 41

Hotels

90

Museums

42

Activities & Leisure

Maps

48

City Centre Map City Map Old Town Map Ostrów Tumski Map Centennial Hall & Surrounds Map

9 10 26 33 37

Kids & Families

50

Index

97

Cafés

52

Restaurants

56 54

Traditional Polish Dishes

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 5

Foreword Happy fall!

COVER STORY

In this issue, we’re adding even more content to our alredy beefy guide, hoping to make life easier for families traveling with children (p.50), point those bored with the usual sightseeing to some more alternative activities & experiences (p.48) - like day trips to the mindblowing Project Riese (Nazi) Tunnels (p.49) and the holy Slavic mountain Ślęża (p.49) - and give everyone a list of essential Polish eats (p.54) to try at all those Polish restaurants (p.68).

In other news, there are exciting events coming this season, from the International Dwarf Festival (p.12) - celebrating Wrocław’s numerous small inhabitants (p.41) - to music festivals devoted to video game soundtracks (p.14), industrial music (p.15), and jazz (p.15), and finally to the Wrocław Christmas Market (p.16), which seems to get more outlandish each year. To see what else is on during your visit, check out our events section starting on p.12.

As always, don’t hesitate to contact us via e-mail at poland@inyourpocket.com or via our facebook page, facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket. Enjoy Wrocław!

Born in Upper Silesia, Janina Krzysiak spent her formative years outside of Philly, PA, before moving back to Poland to indulge her love for cheap air travel, walkable cities, and Eastern European nostalgia. Her favourite thing in Wrocław is the postmodernist monstrosity that is Solpol (p.93).

6

This issue’s autumnal cover photo portrays the ivy-covered facade of Wrocław’s National Museum (p.43), a beautiful example of 19th-century Dutch neo-Renaissance architecture, seen from the opposite bank of the Oder River.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 15,000 copies published 3 times per year Writer & Editor: Janina Krzysiak Sales: Agata Urbanowicz (+48) 606 749 642 Events: Monika Boguszewska Stopka (+48) 728 87 94 94, Agata Janik, Katarzyna Mrozewska-Fenz Research: Aleksandra Sosnowska, Dominika Sosnowska, Patrycja Ples Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Elegant interior, modern open kitchen, tasting menu. Here is a brief description of the Acquario restaurant located on the sixth oor of the Monopol Hotel. It is a perfect place for rest and meetings with friends overlooking the panorama of historic Wroclaw.

Monopol Wroclaw Hotel 2 Modrzejewskiej Street, Wrocław ristorante.wroclaw@hotel.com.pl + 48 71 77 23 777

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Events

Mia Art Gallery

EVENTS BY DATE 04.09 - 30.09 » TIFF PHOTOGRAPHY FESTIVAL

The TIFF Festival was first held in 2011 and since then had been dedicated to photography of life in Wrocław and the surrounding region. The festival is constantly growing and as of today includes submissions from all over Poland, as well as works of international artists. Its main goal is an exploration of photography as an independent artistic medium that performs a variety of functions: amateur, symbolic and conceptual. The 2019 festival’s theme is Worlds, which translates into observing our own reality through the prism of other worlds. TIFF Festival will take place from the 4th to the 8th of September, 2019. The exhibitions are available for viewing until the 30th of September at the BWA Main Gallery, the Studio

ART GALLERIES MIA ART GALLERY Mia is a bright and modern art gallery on Wrocław’s cultural map thanks to the “All That Art!” Foundation.

The exhibitions here are constantly changing, with a new one opening every 2-3 weeks. The gallery also aims to connect art and business by hosting special lectures, training courses, and presentations.QE‑5, Plac Solny 11, tel. (+48) 601 30 22 55, www.miaartgallery.com.

Open 12:00-18:00; Sat 12:00-16:00; Sun 12:00-15:00; closed Mon. Admission free.

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BWA Gallery, and the OP ENHEIM and Entropia Gallery. The festival will also include meetings with authors, curatorial and authorial tours, discussions, and evening music events.

QAdmission free, www.tiff.wroc.pl.

06.09 - 09.09 » INTERNATIONAL DWARF FESTIVAL

The International Dwarf Festival is almost here! Beginning the 6th of September Wrocław’s dwarves will take over the city. The traditional Great Dwarf Parade will start in the Market Square, then head towards the Old Town Garden, where the Great Dwarf Village will be set. Three days festivities will include various activities for children, circus show, fire show, silent disco, theatre performances, magic show, dance show, dwarf workshops, and various family games. QAdmission free.

06.09 - 15.09 » WRATISLAVIA CANTANS

The Wratislavia Cantans, the International Festival of Oratorio and Cantata Music, has been enchanting audiences with music ranging in its repertoire from the Middle Ages to modern-day music. This year’s festival draws its inspiration from the South, the mythical ideal place, the “source of everything” according to Goethe. The festival examines the cross-over of traditions and looks for sources of our contemporary culture in this region. The highlight of the festival will certainly be the concert of the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra led by Zubin Mehta performing Gustav Mahler’s Symphony No. 3. QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 00, Tickets 10-250zł, www.wratislaviacantans.pl.

Events 08.09 13:00, 22.09 14:15, 13.10 12:45, 20.10 12:45 » HORSERACING AT PARTYNICE RACECOURSE

This historic racetrack is one of only three in Poland. The main grandstand was built in 1907, providing a great example of early 20th century architecture. The track has a long history in the Polish Equestrian world providing a great venue to watch the races. Each Sunday they host races showcasing some of the best horses in Poland. For fans of horses and in search for a relaxing day out, don’t miss the party at Partynice.QPartynice Racecourse, ul.

Zwycięska 2 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 339 83 64, Free entry, www.torpartynice.pl.

23.09 - 29.09 » AVANT ART FESTIVAL

The Avant Art Festival is an international presentation of experimental and avant-garde art packed with original and unique cultural phenomena. Prepare to have all your preconceptions disrupted and get ready to explore independent genres of musical expression. This festival celebrates artistic freedom in the widest sense of the word. This year the festival will open on the 23rd of September with the concert of the experimental metal band Sun O))) (Stephen O’Malley, Attila Csihar - vocals, and Oren Ambarchi guitar) performing at Wrocław’s Bakery. Bill Orcutt, icon of Noise music, will perform at the final concert on the 29th of September.QTicket prices undecided at press time., www.avantart.pl.

02.10 - 06.10 » INTERNATIONAL SHORT STORY FESTIVAL

The International Short Story Festival creates a platform for Polish and foreign writers of short fictional prose to exchange ideas about the significance of this contemporary literature form. The readings of stories are at the heart of the festival - each read in its original language, aided by the simultaneous translation. The festival is accompanied by workshops for children, exhibitions, concerts, film showings, best short story contest, best literary translation contest, and creative writing workshops.Qwww. opowiadanie.org.

03.10 - 06.10 » INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF CHILDREN’S THEATRE “DZIECINADA”

Theatre is a unique, immersive learning experience for audiences of any age. Theatre is more than entertainment, more than an evening out spent watching a story unfold. The International Children’s Theatre Festival is an opportunity to watch performances of the highest artistic quality, prepared especially for the youngest audience.

Taking your family to see a show will be certainly an exciting, memorable experience, beneficial in many ways. The exposure to the theatre encourages creativity, culture, communication, patience, and imagination, an afternoon at the theatre is something that cannot be overlooked.QTicket prices undecided at press time., www.dziecinada.wroclaw.pl.

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Events

15–24.11.2019, Wrocław, Poland

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game music workshops during which they will explain their creative processes.QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 00, Tickets 69-169zł, www.gmfest.com.

27.10 14:00, 27.10 17:00 » GALITSYNA SAND SHOW- THE LITTLE PRINCE

Tetiana Galitsyna is one of the world’s top sand artists, the true master of the sand painting technique. Each of her performances is truly unique and deeply moving . She breathes life into the heroes of her stories and they in return whisper them back into the audience’s ears. Tetiana creates unforgettable sand silhouettes which affect the audiences’ imagination provoking the most intense emotions. Antoine de Saint-Exupèry’s The Little Prince is the magical story painted with sand, water and light to the accompaniment of the most beautiful music. It is one of a kind, individual artistic experience that stays with people long after they leave the theatre.QConcert Hall of Radio Wrocław, al. Karkonoska 10, Tickets from 70zł, www. teatrpiasku.pl.

28.10, 29.10, 30.10 20:00 » KORTEZ

04.10 - 06.10 » EKLEKTIK SESSION

Eklektik Session is an international artists platform & festival based in Wrocław. The concept is based on interactions and crossovers of various forms of music, arts, and lifestyles. This year the inaugural concert on the 4th of October will feature Takuya Nakamura (Japan) and Erlend ApnesethTrio (Norway). The second day of the festival will present young British musicians from the Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, the Sarah Tandy Trio, and Marijus Aleksa MAPS. The final concert will feature the Blue Desert, followed by the Eklektik Orchestra and the invited artists performing together in the true “ eklektik” spirit.QTicket prices vary depending on the event, www.eklektiksession.com.

18.10 - 19.10 » GAME MUSIC FESTIVAL

The Game Music Festival is an opportunity to experience the highest artistic and acoustic quality of video game soundtracks played live. The performing musicians do not use any electronic amplification which allows for a more realistic experience. This year the festival is divided into three parts: The Symphony of the Desert featuring the music from Journey, Abzu, and The Banner Saga; The Symphony of the Colossus featuring the music from ICO, Shadow of the Colossus and The Last Guardian; The Symphony of the Shadows featuring the music from the Assassin’s Creed II and the Hitman series. In addition, the composers Austin Wintory and Jesper Kyd will deliver 14

Kortez is a Polish vocalist, composer, pianist, guitarist and trombonist. The artist’s upcoming 20 concerts are part of his summer Holiday Tour. Kortez will be performing such songs as: Boomerang, My Home and his new song Perfect Day. The artist will be accompanied by his band that includes Jacek Lachowicz, Krzysztof Domański, Lesław Matecki, Robert Kretzschmar.QE‑8, Polish Theatre, ul.

Zapolskiej 3, tel. (+48) 71 316 07 77, Admission 119149zł, www.goodtaste.pl.

02.11 19:00 » JAZZ BAND MŁYNARSKI

Polish jazz traditions go back to 1920s when famous composers like Henryk Wars, Jerzy Petersburski or Artur and Henryk Gold were creating compositions for film, cabaret, and theatre. These traditions are kept alive by Marcin Masecki and Jan Emil Młynarski, the founders of Jazz-Band, performing the interwar jazz compositions.

Their repertoire features pieces of unknown swing music, as well as popular tango pieces. The concert pays a tribute to Adam Aston, a celebrated singer, and Henryk Wars, the most important pianist and composer of pre-war Poland.QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 00, Tickets 99-149zł, www.goodtaste.pl.

03.11, 04.11 19:00 » KRZYSZTOF ZALEWSKI

The vocalist, musician, and composer is known for his stage presence leaving many audiences hoping for more.

Krzysztof Zalewski had his breakthrough with the release of his album in 2016 titled “Gold” which had humble beginnings in the clubs of Poland and progressing to some of the largest concert halls in the country. During this current tour you will be able to hear old favourites along with new material from his upcoming album. QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 00, Tickets 69-149zł, www.goodtaste.pl.

Events 05.11 - 11.11 » AMERICAN FILM FESTIVAL

The American Film Festival will take place between the 5th and 11th of November 2019. The festival is an opportunity to see what American independent cinema has to offer juxtaposed with the highly commercial offer of the mainstream cinema at Polish multiplexes.

The festival follows traditions of the Sundance Film Festival, Tribeca Film Festival, Ann Arbor Film Festival, and many others held across the United States. The competition is separated into two segments: the SPECTRUM segment ($10,000 award) and the AMERICAN DOCS segment ($5,000 award), plus the ON THE EDGE segment featuring original films that fall outside of conventional cinematography.QE‑5, Nowe Horyzonty, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19A-21, tel. (+48) 71 786 65 66, www.americanfilmfestival.pl.

GAME MUSIC FESTIVAL VOL. 2

OCTOBER 18-19 NATIONAL FORUM OF MUSIC WROCLAW, POLAND

07.11 - 10.11 » XVIII WROCŁAW INDUSTRIAL FESTIVAL

Industrial music is defined as the “most abrasive and aggressive fusion of rock and electronic music”; initially a blend of avant-garde electronics experiments. The 18th Wrocław’s Industrial Festival is an opportunity for fans of this genre to meet the established musicians as well as young artists who are not afraid to enrich industrial aesthetics with fresh ideas. The line-up includes many artists, among them: Covenant (SE), Lustmord (USA), Test Dept (UK), Sex Gang Children (UK), Negativland (USA) and many others. QG‑5, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519 89 47 69, One Day Ticket 125zł, 4 Day Pass 320zł, www. industrialart.eu.

12.11 20:00 » NOSOWSKA

Kasia Nosowska is the leader of the rock band Hey. A big deal in these parts, they have won lots of Fryderyks, the Polish Brit or Grammy if you like, including Best Female Singer, Best Songwriter and Best Alternative Album. The forty-something singer has also been awarded the Golden Cross of Merit for her contributions to music and culture. QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 00, Tickets 109-159zł, www. goodtaste.pl.

ASSASSIN’s CREED II, HITMAN series S H A D O W O F T H E C O LO S S U S I C O, T H E L A S T G U A R D I A N J O U RN E Y, A b z û , T H E BA N N E R S AG A

15.11 - 24.11 » JAZZTOPAD

The Jazztopad festival is an opportunity to experience jazz performed by the most innovative artists of the genre. The diverse programme of this year’s Jazztopad features such contemporary jazz artists as Charles Lloyd (presenting the new project Wild Man Dance), Makaya McCraven, Anouar Brahem, Nicole Mitchell, Shabaka Hutchings, Vijay Iyer, Wadada Leo Smith, Vincent Courtois , Ned Rothenberg, Sainkho Namtchylak (appearing during the “Meditation Day”), Grzegorz Tarwid, the Artifacts Trio, Danilo Pérez and Piotr Damasiewicz. Expect spontaneous jazz improvisations, experience concerts in private homes and meet the artists.QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 00, Tickets 10-210zł, www.nfm.wroclaw.pl.

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Events 20.11 19:00 » KUBA BADACH

Kuba Badach won the Fryderyk Award in 2011 and 2012 for Vocalist of the Year and has a background of performing since his preteen years. Vocalist, instrumentalist, composer, arranger, and music producer, he is known primarily for his many years of performances with the band Poluzjanci. In 2009 he released album “Tribute to Andrzej Zaucha” with arrangements by Jacek Piskorz and himself.QE‑8, Polish Theatre, ul. Zapolskiej 3, tel. (+48) 71 316 07 77, Tickets 99-159zł, www.goodtaste.pl.

22.11 - 31.12 » WROCŁAW CHRISTMAS MARKET

Wrocław boasts one of Poland’s best and largest Christmas markets, stretching across Plac Solny, two sides of Wrocław’s market square, and subsequently extending down Oławska and Świdnicka Streets. It’s also one of the first such holiday markets in PL to open, typically in the third week of November, creating a festive atmosphere in the heart of the city doing a charming job of filling the city’s gift boxes and socks above the fireplace. The fair features a few amusement rides, a stage for performances, mulled wine dispensaries, and the ‘Bajkowy Lasek’ (Fairy Tale Forest), where animatronic characters behind glass convey fairy tales to wide-eyed children, while one of their parents slips off to grab some hot wine and grilled ‘oscypek’ sheep cheese from the Polish mountains. A great way to start or end your Christmas shopping, and a fine alternative to the overcrowded shopping malls.QE‑5, Market Square, Admission free, www.jarmarkbozonarodzeniowy.com.

23.11 16:00 » ONE LOVE MUSIC FEST

One Love Music Festival returns for the 16th time to Wrocław. It is the biggest indoor reggae festival in Europe, as it gathers around ten thousand people a year. This year the line-up includes Chase & Status DJ SET & Rage, Morcheeba, Dub Inc, Tabu, Asian Dub Formation, Flirtini, and many others. The festival takes place on the 23rd of November at the Centennial Hall.QN‑6, Centennial Hall & Discovery Centre, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 50 47, Tickets from 90zł, www.onelove.pl.

05.12 - 08.12 » WROCŁAW GOOD BOOKS FAIR

The Wrocław Good Books Fair is the third biggest book fair in Poland, after Kraków and Warsaw. It promotes quality adult and young adult fiction while creating an opportunity to meet with authors, participate in lectures and workshops.

This year, the event will expand its audience thanks to combining the Wrocław Good Books Fair and the Good Pages Young Readers’ Book Fair. The fair will take place at the Centennial Hall, between December 5th and 8th.QN‑6, Centennial Hall & Discovery Centre, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 50 47, www.domliteratury.wroc.pl.

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EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 30.12 » DREAMAGINING

Two artists are the creators of the exhibition Dreamagining. Patrycja Mastej works in the field of contemporary art and design, professionally involved in the design of interactive exhibitions. Magdalena Skowrońska is an art instructor and a psychologist, she runs sensual workshops and social projects. Their interactive exhibition is the space that invites you to enter their creative process and visualise your inner dream.

Designed to mimic the sleeping state, the exhibition aims to stimulate seemingly incomprehensible abstract visions. The visitors are carried away and react intuitively to the visual symbolic elements surrounding them.

QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, Tickets 5/10zł, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.

08.09 - 24.11 » MEASURE - ASSESS - MENTS

Three artists: Dorota Nieznalska (Poland), Jörg Herold (Germany)and Katarina Pirak Sikku (Sweden) are following the trail of pseudoscientific anthropological studies used to prove the inferiority of chosen ethnic groups. They are trying to find the source of resentment against immigrants. Dorota Nieznalska’s installation Ostarbeit refers to the 1940 German research on racial differences, Jörg Herold’s work follows similar research in Germany and Italy, and Katarina Pirak Sikku explores the research justifying the sterilization of mentally challenged.QN‑6, The Four Dome Pavilion: Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Wystawowa 1, Tickets will be announced shortly, www.pawilonczterechkopul. pl.

22.09 - 17.11 » RICHARD LONG

Richard Long, an English sculptor and land artist has been in vanguard of conceptual art in Britain since his early work A Line Made by Walking in 1967. Through the medium of walking, time, space and distance became new subjects of his art. He is well known for his large sculptures of lines and circles from slate, driftwood, footprints or stone often sourced from quarries near the exhibition sites. In Wrocław Richard Long is going to create the land art out of materials found around the city and its surroundings.QN‑6, The Four Dome Pavilion: Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Wystawowa 1, Admission 10/20zł, www. pawilonczterechkopul.pl.

04.10 - 27.01 » ME AND MY ART IS ART. ALFONS MAZURKIEWICZ - PAINTER AND PEDAGOG

Alfons Mazurkiewicz was a Polish abstract painter, very enigmatic and an underappreciated artist in his lifetime.

Critics had always a hard time pigeon-holing him, both his contemporaries as well as modern experts. A brilliant teacher, he was the founder of Group X and Wrocław

Events What’s going on? /WroclawInYourPocket Group, later known as the Wrocław School. Mazurkiewicz was fascinated by organic forms - his paintings are characterised by texture, achieved by the layering of thick paint on canvas. His oeuvre to this day invites fresh interpretations and is considered experimental.QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, Admission 5/10zł, www. muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.

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11.10 - 02.03 » POLISH HOSPITALITY

The famous myth of Polish hospitality is certainly being challenged these days. Mirosław Bałka, Monika Drożyńska, Marta Frej & Tomasz Kosiński, Karolina Jaklewicz, Piotr Kmita, Małgorzata Konieczna, Edyta Kowalewska, Zbigniew Libera, Honorata Martin, Dorota Nieznalska, Iwona Ogrodzka, Michał Rutz, Marzena Sadocha, Jana Shostak & Jakub Jasiukiewicz, and Krzysztof Wałaszek are the artists who decided to expose the myth. Are Poles still open to immigrants, ethnic minorities and anybody who is “different”?

The truth hurts. Those who were refused help, who were discriminated, abused and ostracised can attest to that. The exhibited artworks challenge the Polish myth of hospitality and its relevance in today’s world.

QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, Admission 5/10zł, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open 12:00 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.

25.10 - 29.12 » OPEN ART TERRITORY

The exhibition of non-professional, local artists of Lower Silesia is an opportunity to ask questions about the role art plays in their everyday lives and what subjects they explore. Their artworks, often very original, is an expression of the artists’ inner sensitivity, often alluding to their personal experiences. Unknown in their own community, now their art is visible to the wider public.QJ‑8, Ethnographic Museum, ul.

Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, Tickets 10/5zł, www.mnwr.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

29.10 - 02.02 » SCULPTED WROCŁAW

The exhibition showcases previously not shown Wrocław’s sculpture from the first half of the 19th century.

The works presented here cover a wide spectrum of sculpture art. The exhibition will feature selections of works by Christian Behrens, Theodor von Gosen, Jaroslav Vonka, Margerethe Moll as well as many not yet discovered Wrocław’s artists.QI‑5, National Museum, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50, Tickets 15/20zł, www.mnwr.art.pl.

City Essentials Only our favourite places Works offline, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app

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Arrival & Transport

Inside the main train station | Courtesy of the Municipality of Wrocław

Served by its own airport (with a new 3-storey terminal) only 13km from the city centre, a gorgeous, recentlymodernised train station and one of the country’s best highways connecting it to Berlin to the west and Kraków to the east, it’s never been easier to get to or from Wrocław.

Several trains depart to Germany and the Czech Republic each day, the city is a hub for Polski Bus, and it also boasts a comprehensive and easy-to-use tram system. In this section you’ll find all you’ll need to know about getting to and getting around Wrocław.

BY TRAIN Wrocław is well-designed for train travel, boasting a gloriously renovated main train station that was at one time the largest in Europe. Fully modernised in 2012 before the Euro Cup, today Wrocław’s Dworzec Główny is arguably the nicest train station in Poland, making a wonderful impression on all those who arrive via the rails.

Located about 1.5km south of the market square, from here it is possible to catch quick domestic connections to Kraków (3.5hrs), Warsaw (4hrs), and Poznań (2.5hrs), but international destinations like Berlin and Prague usually require a changing of trains. Miłej podróży!

WROCŁAW MAIN TRAIN STATION The beneficiary of a massive modernisation project, Wrocław’s main train station has never looked better.

Completed in 1857, this grandiose Neo-Gothic building, with its decadent exterior of turrets and crenellations, looks more like a storybook palace than a modern transportation hub. Just south of the Old Town, Wrocław 18

Główny is preceded by a public square dotted with benches and two playful fountains flanking the front entrance. Inside, all the elegant architectural details of the original design have been brought back to life, while new digital displays give you all the arrival and departure info you need. Modernised to be completely accessible, there are even handy conveyors to put your luggage on if you chose the stairs. Other amenities include 24-hour ticket windows, automated ticket machines inside and out, an information desk (open 08:00 - 20:00), lockers and a left luggage service, ATMs (bankomat), currency exchange offices (kantor), comfortable waiting rooms, and a plethora of shops, restaurants, and cafes. Overall it adds up to the most convenient, comfortable, and easy to navigate train station in Poland.

Visit the Polish railways website at rozklad.pkp.pl – which has limited but effective English language functionality – to check the departure times ahead of travelling, and the large digital display board in the station for the number of the platform (peron).

As for getting into town, you are basically in it, with most of the city’s hotels and hostels within 20mins walking distance. You can take a tram two stops north to Galeria Dominikańska to get a bit closer to the market square (head west from there), or hop in one of the taxis waiting of front of both station entrances.QG‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 105, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www. rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

Arrival & Transport

BY PLANE WROCŁAW AIRPORT Wrocław’s modern airport does a fine job of ushering people in and out of the city. Just 13km west of the city centre, you should be through passport control and baggage claim rather quickly, at which stage you will probably start thinking about local cash. We recommend using an ATM (‘bankomat’) as the airport’s currency exchange desk offers what we might politely call ‘NOT the best exchange rates in town.’ At the airport you’ll also find press stores, tourist and airport information desks, a restaurant, bars, and a coffee shop.

At the moment the most sensible way to get to the centre appears to be via the WRO Airport Express shuttle bus, which runs every 50 minutes or so (with a break between 01:00 and 4:10) and will take you to the main train station with just one stop at Plac Dominikański (G-5) on the way. The journey time is 30mins and the 10zł ticket can be purchased directly from the driver (cash or card).

Alternatively, save a few złoty and go via bus 106, which runs roughly every 15mins between 05:14 and 23:30 from the airport to the main train station (Dworcowa stop, G-8), with central stops also at Pl. Orląt Lwowskich (C-5/6) and Renoma (E/F-7). Night bus 206 departs the airport for the centre at 00:07, 00:37, 02:07, 03:33 (get off at ‘Rogowska’ and change to bus 241 going in the opposite direction), and 04:33 (change to 149 at ‘Nowy Dwór’). However, the bus schedule is subject to change, so make it easy for yourself by using the website wroclaw.jakdojade.pl to plan your trip. Bus tickets cost 3.40zł and can be bought from the press store inside the terminal building or from the machine next to the bus stop. The journey takes 3040mins.

If you prefer to go directly to your hotel doorstep, you can jump into one of the taxis sitting outside the terminal and expect a 20min ride to the centre. Pick-ups are restricted to three vetted firms (but others are waiting nearby): EcoCar (tel. 12 345 67 89), Taxi Plus (tel. 601 711 058 or 602 647 555) and Partner Taxi (tel. 71 196 27). The tariffs are similar, but Partner Taxi seem to have the best rates: about 60zł weekdays, 70-80zł weekends. For live arrival and departure information call the number given or visit the airport’s excellent website.Qul. Graniczna 190 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 358 14 10, www.airport.wroclaw.pl.

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Arrival & Transport

BY BUS

BY CAR

A stop on the Eurolines international coach network, Wrocław is also a hub for Flixbus (flixbus.pl), with regular connections to Kraków, Prague, Łódź, and Warsaw.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic, and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country.

Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads, and God speed.

WROCŁAW BUS STATION Finally, after several years of reliving the Eastern European ‘wild wild 90’s’ at the temporary bus station down the road, visitors to Wrocław can arrive at a simple but sleek underground terminal meeting all 21st century standards. Those who remember the previous iteration of the station, described by previous editors as ‘grim and uncouth’ and ‘an unofficial day care centre for drunks and lunatics,’ and dubbed by one of our readers as ‘the cesspool of Wrocław,’ can rest assured that the new ‘dworzec’ is nothing like that; it’s clean, organised, handicapped-accessible, and you’ll find functioning departure and arrival displays, bus schedules, lifts, and lockers within easy reach. Ticket windows are open from 6:00 until 22:00, but the International Travel Desk is open 24/7 and will sell domestic and international tickets to you during the night hours; keep in mind that for most domestic routes you can simply purchase your ticket from the bus driver (FlixBus and NeoBus are a notable exception). Best of all, the nearest exit spits you out directly opposite the back entrance of the main train station, making for a nice, functional transportation hub.

Of course, no 21st century train or bus station in Poland can be complete without a shopping centre attempting to gobble it up, and this one is no different; you’ll find the station encased in Wrocław’s newest shopping behemoth, Wroclavia. This situation is not without its advantages, since the upstairs food court is a welcome step-up from the shady eateries offered by the main train station (and is a heck of a lot closer than city centre, convenient for travellers waiting for a connection).

However, one major thing detracts from viewing the mall’s presence as benign: travellers are essentially forced to walk through it to get to the ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ tram/bus stop on ul. Borowska, from which public transportation departs towards the Old Town; a bit of a jerk move, if you ask us.

Once you’ve fought off the shopping temptations and made it to the stop, getting to city centre is easy: tram 15, running every 12 minutes or so, will take you to the ‘Rynek’ stop, as will bus K. During the night, buses 245 and 247 run about once per hour, and you can also catch buses 243 and 253 leaving from a second ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ stop between the bus station and the train station (ul. Sucha).

Confusing, we know - to make it easier, you can use the wroclaw.jakdojade.pl website or jakdojade app to plan your journey. All in all, you should have no trouble getting to city centre even during the dead of night.QF‑9, ul. Sucha 1/11. U 20

The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways, and 140km/ hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker, and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk, Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know).

One of the only major highways in the country, the A4 connects Wrocław with Berlin (via Legnica) and Kraków (via Opole and Katowice). Much of Wrocław’s centre is pedestrianised, and one-way and permit-only streets only help to make driving in the centre an absolute nightmare.

Poor planning and limited traffic patterns mean congestion is a major, major problem as well; call a cab and it might take as much as twenty minutes to get to you, though it’s only a few blocks away. As such, we suggest you ditch your vehicle at the first opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it.

Parking lots are marked on the map in the back of our print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited parking spaces; check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines; in the city centre it’s 3zł for the first hour, 3.60zł for the second hour, and 4.30zł for the third.

Thereafter you’ll be forking out 3 zeds an hour.

24HR PARKING Monitored parking for cars and buses near the Racławice Panorama.QH‑5, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 728 97 90 70.

MARBER GUARDED PARKING A six-level parking garage with about 250 spaces near Arkady Wrocławskie shopping mall, not far from the train station.QD‑8, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 5/7.

Arrival & Transport TAXIS

USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS

Rogue taxis are still a bit of a problem in Wrocław, especially around the train station. Make sure that your cab is clearly marked, has a rate card in the window and that the driver turns the metre on and you should be fine. Under Polish law the driver is now obliged to give you a printed receipt for your fare. In some instances it is possible to pay by credit card but do ask beforehand. On the whole you’ll pay an initial 6zł fee, before being charged from 3zł per kilometre. Note that after 22:00 you’ll be paying a premium night tariff. Prices also rise on Sundays and if travelling outside the city limits.

Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one. But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.

LUX TAXI Comfortable and reliable, Lux Taxi prides itself on its competitive rates, clean cars and wellmannered drivers, all of whom purportedly speak either English or German. 6-8 person taxi vans are available, and you can conveniently pay by credit card.Qtel. (+48) 71 196 23, www.luxradiotaxi.pl.

PARTNER TAXI Operating clean, recognisable cars of the same distinctive make (Volkswagen Passats or Skoda Superbs), from Partner you can request an Englishspeaking driver or carseat for your child, and when you’ve blown all your cash at the bar you can pay with a credit card to get home.Qtel. (+48) 71 196 27, www.partner-taxi.pl.

TALIXO This global transport service (operating in over 750 cities) connects you to the best local taxi and limousine fleets.

Their simple online reservation system allows you to get a ride that matches your needs, whether it’s a child seat or just a super fly ride. Specialising in airport transfers, their system can track your flight, ensuring that your English-speaking driver will be there (looking snappy with a personalised sign), whether you land ahead of or behind schedule.Qtel. (+49) 30 346 49 73 60, www.talixo.com/iyp-wroclaw.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App

JAKDOJADE: Despite the fact that Wrocław’s tram and bus network is easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the wroclaw.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop, and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth making room on your phone for.

E-PODRÓŻNIK This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Wrocław, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a mobile app (Android only).

FREE NOW The world’s first and most popular taxi app (previously known as MyTaxi) is very much available in PL. Free Now allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models, and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location (and allowing you to track its progress) without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Download it for free from their website: free-now.com.

UBER Not only has Uber (uber.com) arrived in Poland, but the company recently opened their European hub in Kraków. If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Wrocław and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates.

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CAR RENTAL

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Wrocław’s public transport system is easy to use and fairly extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines. You’ll rarely need trams or buses to get around the Old Town, but many affordable hotels and some sights (like Centennial Hall) are located outside the centre. Major hubs for trams and buses include the main train station (G-8), Pl. Dominikański (G5), and Pl. Jana Pawła II (D-5). Buses and trams run roughly from 04:00 to 24:00, with night buses running less frequently after that.

Tourists should have no trouble using the English option on the ticket machines now stationed at most transit stops and on all trams and buses. Note, however, that while ticket machines at transit stops accept coins and cash, those on board trams and buses only take plastic. A single fare ticket is 3zł, but be aware that night buses cost 3.20zł. ISIC or other non-Polish student IDs are valid for a significant student discount, but you must carry your ID. Most importantly, remember that tickets are not valid until you stamp them once inside the tram or bus. Sneaky plain-clothed inspectors regularly travel the lines handing out hefty fines to those without valid tickets; being a foreigner will not excuse you, it will only mean you’ll have to pay in cash on the spot.

Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the money. ‘W dni robocze’ means Monday through Friday and ‘W dni wolne’ means Saturday and Sunday. For route planning, check out the super helpful website www. wroclaw.jakdojade.pl.

CITY BIKES & SCOOTERS LIME ELECTRIC SCOOTER SHARING Move over, city bikes, it’s time for... city scooters? This freefloating electric scooter sharing scheme is cluttering up sidewalks citywide, but can help you get to your destination faster and stir up some middle-school nostalgia - if you’re lucky enough to not bump into technical issues. To zoom off you have to download the Lime app, put some money in your virtual wallet, then unlock the scooter you want to rent by scanning its QR code or typing in the ID. The pricing is 3zł to start, then 0.50zł/min, but customers have been complaining about the app sometimes continuing to charge money after the scooter had been returned - so if you want to try it out, start with a small amount.Qwww.li.me.

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All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence.

Be aware, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (tsk, tsk, United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; technically an International Driver’s License is required in those cases. Though some rental companies (the dodgier ones) will still rent you a car, be aware that you are assuming full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license.

If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car.

AVIS Reliable, internationally trusted and with solid customer service, Avis offers a range of vehicles from sedans to mini-vans. They also have a desk at the airport (Mon-Fri, Sun 8:00-24:00, Sat 10:00-18:00), where you can show up without a prior arrangement.QE‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 4957 (Scandic Hotel), tel. (+48) 693 56 02 89, www.avis.pl.

Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:00-12:00; closed Sun. DUDA-CARS Cruise the town in luxury with Duda-Cars’ Mercedes-Benz rentals and limousine service. Depending on whether you prefer to put the pedal to the metal yourself or let a carbonbased lifeform do the driving for you, you can either choose ‘rent.me’ and pick from the CLA Shooting Brake, GLE Coupe, V-Class premium vans, and more, or go with ‘drive.me’ and get your own English-speaking, tuxedo-clad professional chauffeur in an all-black S-Class or V-Class Mercedes. Qul. Olsztyńska 1, tel. (+48) 61 864 44 44, www.duda-cars.mercedes-benz.pl.

Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-16:00; closed Sun. VOZILLA Now you can be environmentally friendly while cruising around in your holiday rental car - Vozilla is Wrocław’s first electric car sharing company! Available since November 2017, Vozilla’s fleet now comprises 150 Nissan Leafs (Leaves?), 10 electric vans, and 40 Renault Zoes. To try out your own, download the Vozilla app and register in the system, or go through the vozilla.pl website; you will receive information about vehicles available in your area.

No keys are required, the app will do its techie magic.

The car rentals are short-term; after you’ve reached your destination, park your car anywhere legal, and Vozilla employees will take care of the rest. Major advantages include the ability to utilise 200 Vozilla-only parking spaces around the city (look for green paint), park for free almost anywhere else, including at Wrocław Airport’s VIP parking lot, and drive in bus lanes. And, of course, you get to pat yourself on the back for not contributing to the city’s air pollution. Win!Qwww.vozilla.pl. 1.10-1.30zł per minute depending on the zone, 0.10zł while stopped.

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.

Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand.

Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls.

Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

WROCŁAW, 3-5 Świdnicka Street WROCLAVIA, 1 Sucha Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Church spires and the mighty Oder - Wrocław in a nutshell | © Patryk Michalski, dollar photo club

Wrocław Sightseeing From ancient architecture to modish murals and Soviet-era neons, Wrocław has it all and more; so put that drink down and go discover all there is to see and do in this incredible city.

Sightseeing Of all the cities in Poland, Wrocław possesses perhaps the most convoluted and turbulent history. Known under dozens of different names as it was passed repeatedly between four countries (and the numerous kingdoms that preceded them), Wrocław was one of the most culturally and architecturally diverse cities in Central Europe before being reduced to rubble a mere 70-odd years ago. As the city proudly and painstakingly rebuilt itself, the post-war period saw a new wave of migrants from today’s western Ukraine enrich not only Wrocław’s ethnic makeup, but also its cultural wealth as many cultural treasures from Lwów were transplanted here. Since shedding the yoke of communism in 1989 and being ‘rediscovered’ by the west, Wrocław has firmly established itself among Prague and Kraków as one of Eastern Europe’s top tourist destinations and one of the undisputed highlights of Poland.

WHAT TO SEE If we think about Wrocław’s city centre in terms of districts, there are three essential areas that visitors shouldn’t allow themselves to miss. The first is obviously the Old Town, with the marvellously restored Market Square at its centre and its maze of cobbled streets, canals, bridges, and church spires. Essentially bound by the Oder River to the north and the Fosa Miejska - or city moat - to the south, this area that was once encircled by the city’s medieval defensive walls is where you’ll find the bulk of Wrocław’s historical monuments and museums, as well as many beautiful University buildings, soaring churches, and the city’s infamous gnomes. The Old Town also includes the ‘District of Mutual Respect’ - a unique neighbourhood southwest of the market square which includes almost side by side the places of worship of four different denominations, including the city’s only surviving Jewish synagogue (the White Stork Synagogue, p.40).

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App The Old Town may be the heart of Wrocław, but its soul is in Ostrów Tumski (H/I-3, p.32). This ‘Cathedral Island’ within easy walking distance northeast of the market square was the first part of Wrocław to be settled by Slavic tribes in the 9th century. Since a bishopric was built there in 1000AD it has remained an important place of royal and religious significance, and home to the city’s most important Cathedral.

Finally, no visit to Wrocław is complete without a trip east of the Old Town to Centennial Hall (N-6, p.36). The city’s only UNESCO World Heritage site, this outstanding piece of architecture turned 100 in 2013 and is surrounded by beautiful parks and gardens, including Wrocław’s Zoo and a spectacular multimedia fountain. Enjoy exploring Wrocław.

WAIT, WHERE AM I?

Woodcut of ‘Bressla’ from the Nuremburg Chronicle, 1493

As a city under constantly shifting rule, Wrocław has been known by many names throughout its history. In fact, the national status of Wrocław has changed more often than any other city in Europe. Passing hands from the Polish Piasts (1000-1335), to the Kingdom of Bohemia (1335-1526), to the Austrian Habsburgs (1526-1741), to the Kingdom of Prussia (1741-1871), into the German Empire and Third Reich (1871-1945), and finally back to Poland (1945-today, and hopefully tomorrow as well), Wrocław cannot be claimed as the by-rights homeland of any one nation or people (despite the past efforts of politically motivated revisionist historians to prove otherwise. The city’s makeup has always been culturally and religiously diverse, with Poles, Germans, Bohemians, Austrians and Jews all making significant contributions to Wrocław’s development. With so many influences and upheavals, Wrocław (as we know it today) has seen more than its fair share of names used in common parlance throughout the years, including Vratislava, Wrotizla, Wretslaw, Vraclav, Vretslav, Prezlav, Presslaw and Bresslau (to name but a few).

It’s not uncommon today to still see and hear Wrocław referred to by its old German name, ‘Breslau’, particularly by and for the German nostalgia tourists who come here to seek their roots. The Polish name ‘Wrocław’ apparently predates the German name, and is thought to have been derived from the name of the Czech sovereign ‘Vratislav’. Variants of the German name began appearing in documents shortly after Poland lost control of the region in 1335. Some sources claim that Frederick the Great changed the city’s name to Breslau in 1741, though this is subject to historical dispute.

The problem of Wrocław’s complex titular nomenclature was a challenge historian Norman Davies tackled when writing his thorough history of the city; Davies eventually settled on ‘Microcosm’ as the title of his excellent book in acknowledgement of the city’s standing as a constant crossroads for Eastern European cultures and concerns, and the unfairness of putting such a wide-ranging study under a title with a limited representation of its history.

And while the temptation to re-title this little tome ‘Microcosm In Your Pocket’ is ever-present, we’ve got enough connotative problems as it is…

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Old Town Walking Tour

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Old Town Walking Tour If there’s room for a little wide-eyed rambling in your schedule, you’ll find no more rewarding experience than meandering around the Old Town. For those who prefer a bit more structure, we’ve put together an eleven-stop walking tour, which will take you through all the main sights. Let’s go!

0 MARKET SQUARE (RYNEK) While you’re taking in the medieval majesty of the Wrocław’s market square (Rynek), bear in mind that it was almost totally rebuilt from a pile of ruins after the Siege of 1945. Such was the remarkable dedication to detail of Wrocław’s ‘pioneers’ – those who resettled here from the east after WWII - that today tourists can even admire a replica of the stone pillory (south east of the Town Hall, F-5) used to flog people from 1492 to well into the 18th century. In the post-war period the statue of famous writer Aleksander Fredro (seated southwest of the Town Hall, F-5) was also brought from Lviv in 1956 to replace the statue that had previously occupied the space up till the end of the war - that of Kaiser Wilhelm.

Wrocław’s market square and much of the urban grid around it was laid out by city planners in 1241. It was then and remains even now one of the largest squares of its kind in Europe, and the magnificent Town Hall (Ratusz) at its centre is a masterpiece of medieval architecture.

Work began on the city’s administrative seat in the late 13th century and continued for 250 years, resulting in the eclectic edifice covered in decorative embellishments that we see today. Today the beautiful ensemble contains the Museum of Burgher Art, as well as numerous restaurants, cafes and bars.

Ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau, the impressive facades of the townhouses lining the market square also deserve closer inspection, one notable exception being the drab ten-storey office building at Rynek 11. Completed in 1931 the structure was designed by Heinrich Rump and offers a glimpse of how the market square may have looked had a ludicrous project to modernise the historic centre come to fruition. It was the idea of Max Berg - creator of the concrete bliss called Centennial Hall - to demolish the buildings surrounding the Rynek, replacing them with 20 storey concrete towers. After much deliberation city authorities abandoned the plan, in the process saving the Wrocław loved by all today.QE‑5.

Town Hall

© draghicich, AdobeStock

1 TOWN HALL, MUSEUM OF BURGHER ART The first thing you’ll probably notice about the Town Hall (Ratusz) is that it seems to be patched together from bits and pieces of a dozen different buildings, and in many ways it was. Construction began at the end of the 13th century and continued - through all the changing political and artistic forces - for about 250 years. The Town Hall was the centre of city life up until the early 20th century, housing the Town Council, merchants’ stalls and (most importantly?) a beer cellar. The building escaped relatively unscathed after World War II (an estimated 10% was damaged). After reconstruction work, it was re-opened as the Museum of Burgher Art (Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczańskiej). Inside you can see the remarkable Gothic interiors, a collection of silver and other city artefacts. Unfortunately these exhibits are poorly marked and finding your way around can be a bit of a stab in the dark. For us, the most fun part of the Town Hall is exploring the elaborate exterior decoration; see if you can find scenes from Aesop’s fables, or grotesque scenes of medieval pub life.QF‑5, Rynek, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 90, www.mmw. pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibits. U

Plac Solny

Photo by Daviidos, CC-BY-SA-4.0

2 PLAC SOLNY (SALT MARKET) The main square’s little flower-loving sibling, the Salt Market was built quite early in the city’s history, most likely in 1242, while Wrocław was being reconstructed following the disastrous Mongol Invasion. Named variously Saltzring (Salt Square) and Polnischer Markt (Polish Market), the square was where salt from Wieliczka and Halicz and goods like leather, honey, and beeswax - mainly from Poland were traded from the Middle Ages until the 19th century.

Some strange scenes took place here occasionally - the most vivid, perhaps, happened in the 15th century, when Wrocław was under Bohemian rule. At the time, the city’s inhabitants were largely influenced by the ideas of Czech reformer Jan Hus, a predecessor to Protestantism. The Vatican, outraged at such blasphemy, sent inquisitor John of Capistrano (a ‘soldier-saint’ who would later lead a crusade at age 70) to talk this heretical nonsense out of the Wrocław lambs. John’s fiery sermons were so effective, in fact, that worshippers willingly carried furniture and valuables out of their homes to be burned in a huge bonfire on Plac Solny.

Things soon took a darker turn, as local Jews - the ultimate heretics according to the inquisitor - were were burned at

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Old Town Walking Tour PENITENTS’ BRIDGE Also called the Witches’ Bridge, according to legend this footbridge connecting the two towers of St. Mary Magdalene’s Church is populated with the tormented souls of women who chose a life of coquetry and idleness instead of fulfilling their god-ordained duties of housekeeping, childcare, and obedience to their husbands - some heavy patriarchal stuff. Originally built in the 15th century and rebuilt many times over the ages, this 45-metre-high viewpoint, open year round, can be reached by scaling 247 winding stairs inside one of the church towers, and offers splendid views of the main square and beyond. It's also home to two of Wrocław's female gnome statues (p.41) - a rarity.

QF‑5, St. Mary Magdalene’s Church, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 71 344 19 04. Open 10:00-19:00. Admission 8/5zł.

the stake along with the couches and jewellery boxes. In 1996, these events were commemorated with a flame-like Little Spire sculpture erected smack dab in the centre of the square; created by artist Adam Wyspiański, the sculpture is a nod to the (big) 90m Spire monument located next to the Centennial Hall.

Today Plac Solny is known for numerous 24hr flower stalls, which turn it into a phantasmagoria of colours night and day. Points of interest include a 1997 ‘antique style’ dragon fountain, the 1822 neoclassical Old Stock Exchange building at no. 16, the early 18th-century Oppenheimer House at

Jaś & Małgosia

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no. 4, an avant-garde modernist building from the 1920s - which used to house the definitely-not-PC ‘Pharmacy Under the Moor’ - at no. 2/3, and an underground WWII bunker (sadly not open to the public).QE‑5, Plac Solny.

3 JAŚ & MAŁGOSIA Wrocław’s not short on photo opportunities and one particular favourite is the two skinny buildings that connect ul. Św Mikołaja with ul. Odrzańska at the northwest corner of the market square. This pair of storybook tenements are known locally as ‘Jaś i Małgosia,’ or commonly ‘Hansel & Gretel’ for foreigners, apparently because the connecting archway is symbolic of a couple holding hands. Built in the 16th and 18th century respectively they are all that remain of the line of townhouses that once circled the cemetery of St. Elizabeth’s, and the archway is inscribed with a Latin motto proclaiming ‘Death is the gate to life.’ Jaś - the smaller, less decorative of the two buildings - features several bas-reliefs by local artist Eugeniusz Get-Stankiewicz, including a self-portrait. Get-Stankiewicz is a bit of a local legend and commonly regarded as one of the key movers in 1960s Polish counter-culture. Since 1995 the Jaś house has also doubled as his studio, which he rents from the city for a token one groszy coin per month. Małgosia, on the other hand, houses a long, narrow, completely rubbish bar (Drink Bar Małgosia) on the ground floor which doubles as a souvenir shop. The saving grace is that in the warm months there’s a brilliant little beer garden in the courtyard in front of the church.QE‑5, ul. Odrzańska 39/40.

4 ST. ELIZABETH’S CHURCH Among the oldest churches in Wrocław and the tallest buildings in the Old Town, St. Elizabeth’s is unmistakable.

A church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but the current Gothic structure dates to the 14th century. This is not the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in 1529 by heavy hail, suffered severe damage in WWII, and then was the victim of a mysterious fire in 1976. Today the church serves as a military garrison church. Inside you’ll find impressive Gothic and Renaissance altars and over 100 tombs of once prominent citizens. The highlight is the 91m tower (open till the end of October, weatherdependent), but don’t underestimate the climb of over 300 steps. The view from the top is more than worth the arduous journey and 6zł.QE‑5, ul. Św. Elżbiety 1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38, www.elzbieta.archidiecezja.wroc.pl.

Open 08:00-18:00; Sun 13:00-18:00.

5 STARE JATKI One of Wrocław’s most engaging streets, ul. Jatki is no more than one city block long, connecting ul. Kiełbaśnicza with ul. Odrzańska. Its picturesque charm is no doubt due to the fact that it has retained its medieval character throughout the ages; though most of the structures on Stare Jatki date from the 17th and 18th centuries, the line of low level buildings were constructed on medieval foundations and some elements from the 13th century are still visible on the south side of the street. Though in past times the principal industry here was meat - butchered beasts filled

Old Town Walking Tour

© stepmar, AdobeStock

the wooden stalls, today the alleyway is home to numerous artists’ studios and souvenir stalls. The defining feature of Stare Jatki is the collection of bronze farm animals at the start of the street. Sculpted by Piotr Wieczorek and erected in the 1990s this ‘Memorial to Slaughtered Animals’ was funded by the local government, and in addition to being one of Wrocław’s most photographed attractions, also serves as an obstacle course for party casualties pouring out of Klub Na Jatkach.QE‑5, ul. Jatki.

6 WROCŁAW UNIVERSITY Founded by the Jesuits in 1670, the magnificent Baroque main building of Wrocław University and the adjacent Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus were built on the site of a derelict Piast castle after a land grant from Emperor Leopold. In 1811, Prussia secularised all church property and took over administration of the university.

The dying days of WWII saw the university library turned into a makeshift HQ for the occupying Nazis, and at the war’s end the German faculty were all but exiled, with the replacement professors who arrived from the University of Lwów forming the first Polish faculty to teach here. Past professors include Alois Alzheimer (who gave his name to the disease) and Robert Bunsen (who didn’t invent the Bunsen burner but improved it to such a degree that it was named in his honour). Since the start of the 20th century the university has produced a remarkable 9 Nobel Prize winners, and over 40,000 new students are enrolled each year.

Guest Rooms, ApARtment, Hostel The Dairy, Die Molkerei, La Latteria, Le Lecheria, La Laitearie.

ul. P. Włodkowica 5, 50 – 072 Wrocław tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl e-mail: rezerwacja@mleczarniahostel.pl Wrocław University

© fotolupa, AdobeStock

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Old Town Walking Tour

University Church

Despite its ongoing function as an academic institution, the main university building is open to tourists as a museum.

Two tickets are available, giving you access to 3 or 4 rooms, plus a free audioguide (available in English, Polish, German, Russian, Czech, Spanish, or Italian). We recommend you splash out for all four rooms to avoid any later confusion and consternation.

The first of the University’s main highlights is Aula Leopoldina - a ceremonial hall exploding with cherubs and Baroque swag. The painting on the ceiling depicts the apotheosis of God’s wisdom, while portraits of the university’s founding fathers ring the walls; years ago four of them were stolen and two have yet to be returned.

Winding upstairs past the odd exhibition and a line in the floor demarcating the 51st parallel - which runs right through the building - your visit to the museum ends on the terrace of the university’s ‘Mathematical Tower’ which affords panoramic views of the Old Town and Odra River.

QF‑4, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 375 26 18, www. muzeum.uni.wroc.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:0018:00; closed Wed. From October open 10:00-16:00.

Closed Wed. During lectures and certain special events the Aula Leopoldina is closed to visitors. Admission 1214/10-8zł depending on how many rooms you wish to visit.

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© Patryk Michalski, Adobe Stock

7 UNIVERSITY CHURCH OF THE BLESSED NAME OF JESUS This Late Baroque church has been ranked among the most beautiful in Central Europe, and makes a worthwhile visit.

Built by the Jesuits as part of the university complex in the late 17th century on the site of the Piast castle, a section of the original castle structure can still be seen in the northern sacristy - the alcove at the far end of the church.

The interior, painted to imitate marble and gilt, is very well preserved and most of the furnishings are original. Look up to see the fresco on the vaults; the figures are 18th-century depictions of natives from the Americas, Africa, Asia and Europe. Visitors are even given an audioguide which is available in five different languages. Donations suggested, but not required.QF‑4, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 344 94 23, www.uniwersytecki.archidiecezja.wroc.pl.

Open 11:00-15:30, Sun 13:30-15:30.

8 THE OSSOLINEUM This stunning Baroque palace complex on the Odra riverbank was rebuilt to its late 17th century designs after being damaged heavily during WWII and is today one of the most outstanding works of Baroque architecture in PL. Originally a hospital and convent, later a college, today the magnificent grounds are home to the Ossolineum Library - an important research centre and national archive, the country’s oldest still-running publishing centre and one of its largest library collections. Established in 1817 by Józef Maksymilian Ossoliński when he began collecting Polish manuscripts and cultural documents in his Vienna flat, recognising their importance to national culture after Poland was wiped from the world map, Ossoliński’s private library became a national institute and was eventually moved to L’viv where it expanded generously. After postwar border changes the collection was moved to Wrocław, however communist authorities confiscated over 80% of it which presumably remains in L’viv today. The collections of the Ossolineum are some of the most valuable in the country and include manuscripts by Polish bards Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, writings by Copernicus, and drawings by Rembrandt and Durer. The site of regular free exhibitions (which have their own opening hours), the Ossolineum is otherwise worth a look around for the building itself, with the library and inner and outer courtyards all accessible to the public. In May 2016, the Ossolineum opened a second branch on the market square (Rynek 6, E-5), displaying the original manuscript of Mickiewicz’s epic poem Pan Tadeusz and illuminating the Romantic Age during which it was written via digital documents and photos, 3D animation and augmented reality.QG‑4, ul. Szewska 37, tel. (+48) 71 344 44 71, www.ossolineum.pl. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. 9 HALA TARGOWA Designed by Richard Pluddemann and Heinrich Kuster, and built between 1906 and 1908, Wrocław’s Market Hall has a handsome, traditional-looking facade, while the interior is a concrete cathedral of elliptical arches; in fact, this innovative

Old Town Walking Tour

Hala Targowa

reinforced concrete structure directly inspired Max Berg to create Wrocław’s UNESCO-listed Centennial Hall. Worth a look from an architectural, cultural and practical standpoint, in Hala Targowa you’ll find earnest locals hawking top quality fruit and vegetables on the ground floor, as well as a wide selection of local cheese, salami and hams. Upstairs is a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, nylon underwear and plastic kitchen utensils, and a set of surprisingly clean and modern public toilets. To your right as you enter the market is one of the city’s best little no-name, no-fuss pierogi bars.

Essential.QG‑4, ul. Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 31.

Open 08:00-18:30; closed Sun. 10 BASZTA NIEDŹWIADKA (BEAR TOWER) One of the only surviving fragments of the medieval defensive walls that once circled Wrocław’s Old Town, this obscure tower hidden right in the centre was first built in the 13th century to protect the city from Mongol mayhem, acquiring the basic appearance it retains today a century later. As Wrocław expanded, Niedźwiadek Tower quickly lost its military importance and became hemmed in by residential buildings - the close proximity of which spared it from being razed along with the rest of the city’s fortifications under Napoleon’s orders in 1807. 75% destroyed during Festung Breslau, the historic tower and its surviving stretch of wall were rebuilt during restoration works in the 1950s and it was then that the weathered stone sculpture of a ‘bear’ (though historians tend to believe it’s a lion) discovered near ul. Łaciarska was placed in the tower’s south-east corner, thus giving the tower its name. To find it look in the courtyard just south of Hala Targowa between ul. Piaskowa and ul. Kraińskiego.QG‑5, ul. Kraińskiego 14.

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Ostrów Tumski

Ostrów Tumski from across the river. | © fotolupa, AdobeStock

Playing soul to the Rynek’s heart, Ostrów Tumski is the gem at the centre of Wrocław’s crown. This, after all, is where the city began, making it one of the most historically significant parts of town, in addition to its most archaically picturesque. The district’s history has always been closely tied to Catholicism and today you’ll find an incredible concentration of religious buildings across the river, making it an incredibly peaceful place to explore and relax.

During the latter part of the 9th century what is now known as Ostrów Tumski (the name means ‘Cathedral Island’ in Polish) was settled by a Slavic tribe, the Ślężanie, who considered the island impregnable. The first bishopric in Lower Silesia soon followed in 1000, and for the next two and a half centuries Ostrów Tumski was the centre of Wrocław before the marauding Tartars proved they could indeed make it pregnant (so to speak); pregnant with fire and ruin, that is. After its destruction, the city’s nucleus shifted across the river where its development would be less restricted by rivers. Ostrów Tumski, meanwhile, became a place of almost exclusively religious and royal (the Piast Dynasty built a castle here in the 1260s) significance.

With a few exceptions it remains primarily a place of worship and reflection to this day; as such, there are few shops, dwellings, cafes, bars and restaurants, and the Wrocław Archdiocese occupies almost all of the beautifully maintained classical buildings you will see.

One of the first things observant visitors may notice is that though Ostrów Tumski is indeed accessed from central Wrocław by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until the 19th century, but persistent flooding led town planners to fill in one of the Odra’s tributaries in 1810 (though the city has sadly seen its share of floods since then as well).

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Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek, perhaps the real joy of Ostrów Tumski is its other-worldly feel. Katedralna and Idziego Streets both provide cobbled reminders of the past - Idziego especially, though it lacks the postcard worthy sights of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous street, still lit today by original gas lamps and providing the perfect frame for a picturesque, romantic evening stroll.

Keep your eyes peeled at dusk for the district’s famous lamplighter as he goes about his daily duty of lighting Ostów Tumski’s gas lamps by hand.

WHAT TO SEE A visit to this lovely, peaceful part of Wrocław rightly begins at Most Piaskowy (Sand Bridge, C-2). This is the oldest bridge in Wrocław, built in 1861 and an engineering marvel, if no great shakes on the design front. The original bridge, built back in the 11th century, was part of the ancient trade route - the Amber Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to Vienna, and thence to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi you will pass the Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, the Baroque-era University Library, and the Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous for its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern nave. From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski (Tumski Bridge, C-2) leads you across to the oldest part of the city; look out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig), Silesia’s patron saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocław’s patron, at the head of the bridge. Also of note are the padlocks placed on the bridge by newlyweds to symbolise the unbreakable bond they share going forward in life together.

© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

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2 ST. MARTIN’S CHURCH This tiny and somewhat irregularly shaped brick church is all that remains of the Piast dynasty’s 13th-century Royal Castle, which once stood on the island. St. Martin’s too, however, was largely rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries. Before WWII the church was a centre of Polish culture in a primarily German city. Poles gathered here to hear sermons and sing hymns in their own language. The

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EAT & DRINK CAFETERIE CHIC This might just be the quintessential Wrocław café.

Search for it (which you must, it is well-disguised) near the Church of the Holy Cross on Ostrów Tumski, and enter a world of marbled floors, tiny little tables, period lamps, and the dreamiest apple pie with raspberry sauce in Poland. Popular with ladies of a certain age who have little to do except visit cafes and eat what they would call ‘naughty’ cakes, it’s nonetheless one of our favourite places in Wrocław.QH‑4, ul. Katedralna 6, tel. (+48) 71 327 13 55, www.hotel-jp2.pl. Open 10:00-20:00.

LWIA BRAMA2 One of the few places you’ll actually find anything to eat if you’re strolling Ostrów Tumski, Lwia Brama2 offers some great sidewalk seating in the warmer months from which you can enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for the lamplighter to come round and perform that most romantic of Wrocław rituals - the daily lighting of the district’s gas lamps. In winter the historic underground cellars aren’t as cold and sprawling as you might expect. The menu here sticks to Polish and European standards, with generous use of local ingredients and some dishes prepared in the sous-vide method.QH‑4, ul. Katedralna 9, tel. (+48) 793 89 39 09, www.restauracjalwiabrama.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€. T­B­6

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1 CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL Crossing Tumski Bridge from Wyspa Piasek (Sand Island), this is the first church you’ll encounter on Ostrów Tumski.

Original construction of this Gothic brick church took nearly 50 years between 1404 and 1452, only to see it destroyed by two fires, rebuilt, and then 40% obliterated during Festung Breslau. Reconstructed in the 1950s, the accuracy of the interior has since been disputed.

Though you might find the front doors open depending on the priest’s whimsy (8:00-16:00 Mon-Fri as a rough rule), getting past the inner gates to see the church in detail is possible by prior arrangement only.QH‑4, ul.

Katedralna, tel. (+48) 71 327 13 33. Open by prior arrangement.

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Following ul. Katedralna from there you’ll first come across the Church of Saints Peter & Paul before reaching the impressive monument of John of Nepomuk standing beneath the Church of the Holy Cross, a rare twolevel church with two separate parishes. Continuing down picturesque ul. Katedralna you’ll pass two of the neighbourhood’s only places to rest and refuel - Cafeterie Chic at Katedralna 6 and Lwia Brama at Katedralna 9 before standing beneath the beautiful Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (D-2), famous for its stunning stained glass windows and 16th century altarpiece. To the right of the Cathedral’s main portal is the Archbishop’s Palace, St. Mary's now the Archdiocese Museum (the Archbishop lives elsewhere these days). For those looking for a sanctuary that’s not full of cadavers on crosses, head north to the city’s Botanical Gardens – one of the finest, most picturesque, and sadly overlooked, places for spending time in Wrocław.

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Ostrów Tumski THE LAMPLIGHTER

Lamplighter has to be one of the world’s most charmingly antiquated, unique and romantic occupations, right up there with town crier, court jester, lighthouse keeper, castle drawbridge operator and… well, IYP editor, of course. Up until and even throughout the 19th century, when candle or gas streetlamps were still the norm, lamplighter was a prolific and wellrespected job. In those pre-Edison days it was the lamplighter’s job to go around town at dusk igniting a city’s streetlamps, and then extinguishing them again at dawn; while on patrol, the lamplighter often served a dual role as town watchman. Today having a degree in lamplighting won’t do much for your CV; in fact, to our knowledge, Wrocław is one of only two cities in Europe that still employs a lamplighter (the other being Brest, Belarus). The first gas lantern was lit in Wrocław in 1846 and gas streetlamps were common throughout the city even after the war and up until the 1960s when they were replaced in the Old Town. Fortunately those on Ostrów Tumski – Wrocław’s Cathedral Island – survived modernisation and the tradition of the Wrocław lamplighter is carried on to this day. 365 days a year this gentleman can be seen at dusk in his unique cape and top hat lighting the 103 gas lamps in the district. With a butane cartridge discreetly hidden under his cloak, the lamplighter uses a pole to ignite the lamps and a hook attachment to extinguish them each morning.

Catching him in the jolly act is not only easy to do if you’re exploring the area in the evening, but also a prerequisite for camera-wielding tourists.

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last Polish mass under Nazi oppression was held here in 1939. A plaque outside reads in part, “We are Poles... A Pole is a brother to a Pole... Poland is our mother, we cannot speak badly of our mother.” Outside St. Martin’s stands a massive monument to Pope John XXIII, placed here in 1986.QH‑4, Świętego Marcina 67-68. Open only during mass (Sundays at 10:00).

3 CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS / ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S One of Ostrów Tumski’s most beautiful and iconic structures, thanks to a 70m steeple and impressive entry staircase, this curious sanctuary is actually two churches in one. Split over two levels, the building comprises the shorter windows of the Church of St. Bartholomew beneath the soaring windows of the upper level Church of the Holy Cross - unfortunately only the lower level is currently open. The first two-storey church in Silesia, and one of only a few in all of Europe, the church was completed in 1295 as an act of reconciliation ending a long dispute between Duke Henry IV and Bishop Thomas II. For centuries the sarcophagus of Henry IV was housed in the upper Church of the Holy Cross, however today it can be seen on display in the National Museum.

Standing outside the church is a large sculpture of John of Nepomuk dating from 1732. As of now no special time is allotted for visiting purposes, so sneak in during mass if you’re so inclined.QH‑4, Plac Kościelny, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74, www.katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 10:00-16:00.

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

© Lena Serditova, dollar photo club

Ostrów Tumski 4 CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST One of Wrocław’s most enduring icons, the elegant doublespires of this Gothic building stand like sentinels at the end of ul. Katedralna, and its elaborate portal is one of the most valuable medieval artefacts in Wrocław. What we see today is in fact the fourth church to be built on this site.

When construction began in 1244, this was the first brick building in Poland. Cathedral-building being what it is, work continued for five more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522, showing the Virgin Mary having a nap. You’ll also see the largest organ in Poland, which prior to the war was also the largest in the world. The real highlight of the Cathedral, however, is the panoramic view from one of its towers, which can be yours for 8zł during the church’s opening hours; unlike the arduous climbs required for Wrocław’s other church towers, here an elevator takes you to the top where you’ll find a small exhibition in addition to the wonderful views.QH‑4, Pl. Katedralny 18, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74, www.katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 10:00-17:30, Sun 14:00-17:00. From October open TueSat 10:00-16:30, Closen Mon and Sun. 5 BOTANICAL GARDEN Open till mid-November. To complete a thorough tour of Ostrów Tumski you should not miss the charming Botanical Gardens. The gardens began life as a scientific pursuit, but have become a favourite retreat for Wrocław’s residents. The garden was built from 1811 to 1816 on the riverbed where the Odra once flowed around Ostrów Tumski. The 7.4 hectare grounds include a huge diversity of plant life, aquariums, sculptures, a plant shop and cafe, and a large pond with picturesque bridges. On some days your peace and quiet could be marred by noisy groups of schoolkids, but the beautiful manicured landscapes include enough nooks and crannies that you should have no trouble forgetting you’re in the centre of a big city.

Highly recommended.QI‑3, ul. Sienkiewicza 23, tel. (+48) 71 322 59 57, www.ogrodbotaniczny.wroclaw.pl.

Open 09:00-19:00 in Sept, 9:00-17:00 Oct to mid-Nov. Admission 15/10zł. U

Courtesy of the Municipality of Wrocław

Botanical Garden

© Piotr Tomicki, Dollar Photo Club

JOHN OF NEPOMUK Good old John of Nepomuk can be found everywhere throughout what was once Bohemia, and - as a saint credited with protecting against floods - was indispensable in a city with as many waterways as Wrocław. Born in the 14th century in Pomuk (later renamed Nepomuk), John was a Christian presbyter and confessor of Queen Sophia of Bavaria. As it turns out, listening to royals’ confessions can be dangerous work, and the poor martyr met a grisly end in the Vltava River after refusing to divulge the queen’s secrets to her husband, Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia. This statue on Ostrów Tumski was crafted in 1730-1732 by BohemianGerman sculptor Johann Georg Urbansky based on a design by Christoph Tausch. A closer look will reveal that two of the cherubs adorning the figure are bald rather than having a full head of (presumably golden) curls; according to legend, Urbansky’s assistant, who was tasked with sculpting the last few cherub heads, decided to celebrate his hairless newborn son by sculpting the baby’s likeness among the flock of angels.

This was initially met with fury by his boss, but after viewing the adorable real-life baby boy, Urbansky’s heart quickly softened and he decided to give a second cherub a buzz cut for better symmetry.QH‑4, Plac Kościelny.

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Centennial Hall & Surrounds

© Stanisław Klimek

Once you’ve finished ogling the Old Town and Ostrów Tumski, there’s a third essential district of this fine city that visitors will be poorer heading home without having seen. Just east of the city centre lie a clutch of attractions surrounding the historic Centennial Exhibition Complex, including Centennial Hall - Wrocław’s only UNESCO site, the country’s oldest zoo (p.51), the tranquil Japanese Garden, the tourist-luring Pergola Fountain and the newly renovated Four Dome Pavilion. Intended as a city showpiece since its creation, the area east of the Odra long held a somewhat lukewarm public standing thanks to dubious historical connotations and debatable aesthetic appeal; however recent renovations, the UNESCO nod and the addition of the magnificent multimedia fountain (operating May-October) have made it a favourite place of the locals and cemented its place as a Wrocław must-see.

IGLICA (SPIRE) The iconic steel spire was erected on the Centennial Hall exhibition grounds in 1948 as part of the propagandic ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition.’ Meant to symbolise the soaring achievements of the country’s newly acquired western territories since they were ‘returned’ to Communist Poland, like many of the Party’s ideas, this one quickly went wrong. Originally 106 metres, Iglica’s peak was adorned with a spinning contraption of mirrors which would create a dazzling ‘umbrella of light’ at night. The apparatus was ominously struck by lightning only hours after completion with much of it crashing to the ground in dazzling catastrophe; the remaining dangling bits posed quite a 36

hazard to the expected thousands who would attend the exhibition. To the rescue came two college students who were part of a climbing club and volunteered to dismantle the top of the structure for free after the military proved unable to sort the situation due to the inclement weather. Scaling the Iglica took 24 hours and 15 minutes, dismantling it another six, but the boys succeeded in becoming heroes of the enormous media spectacle. In 1964, the spire was reduced by 10 metres for safety reasons.

During Martial Law, another daredevil climbed the tower and attached a Solidarity flag to its zenith. In 2016 it was taken down temporarily for renovations, and a routine measurement yielded a surprise - over 5 metres of the spire had inexplicably gone missing (or the communist team mismeasured the amount they were cutting in ‘64). Today the (officially 90.3m tall) ugly ribbed structure continues to stand outside Centennial Hall and is probably one of the tallest pieces of useless bolted metal in the world.QN‑6, Hala Stulecia, ul. Wystawowa 1.

GETTING THERE The easiest way to reach the Centennial Exhibition Complex is via public transport. Tram 10 can be caught from the ‘Rynek’ (E-5), ‘Świdnicka’ (E-7) and ‘Galeria Dominikańska’ (G-6) stops, or take buses 145 or 146 east from the train station (F-8), getting off at ‘Hala Stulecia.’ The area is also easily accessible by car, with parking available right in front of Centennial Hall.

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CENTENNIAL HALL & DISCOVERY CENTRE With Wrocław developing rapidly in the late 19th century it was determined that the city required an exhibition hall and the hundred year anniversary of Napoleon’s defeat at the Battle of Leipzig (1813) was deemed a timely occasion for an expensive, over-the-top exhibition hall that would figuratively flex the architectural muscle of the German Nation. Max Berg, who had been appointed as official city architect in 1909, quickly set about designing his career-piece, and (what-do-ya-know?) his proposal was chosen over 42 others by city council despite abject objection from almost everyone who laid eyes on the design, which resembled a colossal concrete hatbox and would cost an enormous 1.9 million Reichsmarks. Teaming with eminent architect Hans Poelzig, the two personally oversaw the project which was completed in 1913 and has endured to become hailed as one of the most important architectural monuments of the early 20th century. With an inner diameter of 65 metres, a height of 42 metres and a 10,000 person capacity, the Jahrhunderthalle (as it was

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THE FOUR DOME PAVILION: MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART The Four Dome Pavilion, a work of famous German architect Hans Poelzig, has been modernised and re-opened to the public as a branch of the National Museum dedicated to contemporary art. Constructed in 1913 to serve as part of the exhibition space surrounding the Centennial Hall, it originally housed a historical exhibition commemorating Prussia’s defeat of Napoleon 100 years prior. Following WWII, the remarkable building was taken over by the Wrocław Motion Picture Company for office use, gradually falling into disrepair before being signed over to the wier zynie National Museum in 2009. Now restored to its formerZglory cki B and featuring some blindingly white minimalist decor, itridgise home to works by prominent 20th- and 21st-century Polish artists - including Magdalena Abakanowicz, Władysław Hasior, Tadeusz Kantor and Alina Szapocznikow - and one more reason to visit the area around Centennial Hall.QN‑6, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.pawilonczterechkopul.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Wed 09:00-16:00; Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł, students under 26 (with ID) 1zł, Tue free for permanent exhibitions. Admission free with a ticket from the nearby Racławice Panorama.

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then called) became the widest structure of its type in the world; that type being a gigantic multi-purpose structure of radial reinforced concrete ribs unlike anything the world had ever seen. Though routinely left off lists of the world’s most attractive buildings, one thing is undeniable: the Centennial Hall is an engineering marvel.

Building a structure of such size out of steel and concrete was both revolutionary and extremely daring; in fact the workers that helped build the behemoth were afraid to go inside, so certain were they of its eventual collapse. On the contrary, the Centennial Hall has inexplicably survived two world wars and hosted countless large scale events including monumental operas, concerts and sporting events. It was here that Adolf Hitler held rallies and Pope John Paul II held services during his famous visit in 1997.

© Pawel Czerwinski

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Centennial Hall & Surrounds RECOVERED TERRITORIES

In 1948, Wrocław’s Centennial Hall played host to the largest propaganda event in Poland’s history: The Recovered Territories Exhibition. An official term coined by Poland’s post-war communist authorities, the ‘recovered territories’ denoted those lands re-appropriated to Poland as compensation for territorial losses in the east which had been absorbed by the Soviet Union. The Party’s underlying aim was to construe the country’s new western territorial acquisitions – of which Wrocław (formerly ‘Breslau’) was the largest city - as belonging to a Polish Piast tradition that dated to medieval times; centuries of German presence in Silesia was explained as evidence of unyielding German aggression, and Poland’s repossession of the resource-rich region, which had repeatedly fed the German war machine, would ensure world peace in the future.

Originally intended to be held in Poznań, one look at Wrocław’s Centennial Hall must have made Poland’s communist leaders change their minds; a more glorious piece of grey concrete could not have been dreamed up by even the Soviet Union’s best-rinsed brains and the monumental structure was immediately renamed ‘People’s Hall’ (Hala Ludowa). The exhibition included 48 pavilions portraying the glory of life in Silesia since it had been ‘polonised’, among them a barn full of cows where guests were invited to drink fresh milk, a long conveyor belt around which miners from Wałbrzych pretended to produce coal, and a main exhibition space dedicated to photos and biographies of the region’s most productive workers, among them Wincenty Hajduk - a miner extraordinaire whose efficiency was 571% above his peers, and Legnica’s Maria Lewin who apparently could knit at +401%. All told, the exhibition cost a whopping 700 million PLN and was visited by 1.5 million people during its run from July 21st to the end of October 1948; workers across the country were even given days off specifically for organised trips to visit the exhibition.

Renamed ‘Hala Ludowa’ (the People’s Hall) following World War II, the structure and surrounding grounds were the site of the People’s Republic of Poland’s ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition’ - the most expensive and publicised propaganda event in the history of Poland. Added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2006, until its total renovation in 2010, the Centennial Hall complex hadn’t really lived up to its reputation for locals and tourists alike, with busloads of the latter often standing in front of the concrete monstrosity wondering how difficult it would be to get the pants they’re wearing to qualification for the once exclusive list.

However, that’s no longer the case; Centennial Hall has been scrubbed clean and features an interior exhibit (closed until the end of 2019 due to renovations, unfortunately) that not only transforms the structure from a dubious photo-op to a bona fide tourist attraction, but also does much to explain and justify its reputation as a modern architectural masterpiece.

Known as the Discovery Centre (Centrum Poznawcze), this exhibition gives visitors an overview of Centennial Hall’s construction, its history and its place in the pantheon of modern architecture. Most of the information is conveyed via nifty touch-screen displays covering topics as varied as Breslau architects, skyscrapers, various world exhibitions, Polish UNESCO sites, and a lot more related to architecture and Wrocław specifically. In addition to the permanent exhibit, Discovery Centre includes a gallery for temporary exhibitions and the option of a light and sound show under the dome.

Using video-mapping technology (unfortunately down for servicing and maintenance as we’re sending this guide to the printing house), the dome of the Hall comes to life with a stunningly complex light show that emphasises the uniqueness of the structure and is creatively choreographed to original music. Despite its size (the permanent exhibition only covers two small rooms), there is much to learn and discover, so allot almost two hours for your visit.QN‑6, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 51 50, www.halastulecia.pl.

JAPANESE GARDEN Just north of Centennial Hall behind the ‘pergola,’ the Japanese Garden was established in 1913 as part of the Artistic Gardening Exhibition which accompanied the centennial celebrations and was originally the work of Count Fritz von Hochberg and Mankichi Arai. Despite its own share of devastation, including the particularly cruel flood of 1997

Japanese Garden

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© satori, Dollar Photo Club

Centennial Hall & Surrounds which occurred only two months after a long restoration project (thanks in part to the generosity of the Japanese Embassy in Warsaw), the arrangement of the garden and its system of small streams are part of its over-one-hundredyear-old legacy. Two symbolic water cascades which merge into one large pond comprise the main attractions of these small, but exquisitely manicured gardens – one of the most tranquil escapes in the city.QO‑5, ul. Mickiewicza (Park Szczytnicki). Open 09:00-19:00. Admission 8/5zł.

WROCŁAW FOUNTAIN Working till the end of September. Just left of Centennial Hall’s main entrance you’ll find the ‘Pergola’ - a colossal, semi-circular, ivy-covered colonnade winding around one of the city’s most popular attractions - the multimedia fountain. Unveiled in June 2009, in honour of the 20th anniversary of the first free elections in post-war Poland, Wrocław’s fountain projects water up to 40 metres high through an array of 300 different nozzles which have the ability to rotate, gyrate, pulse and even create a 700 square metre screen of water on which animated projections can be displayed; all the while music orchestrates the show through the park’s speakers. Equipped with 800 lights of varying size and strength, the Wrocław Fountain even has pyrotechnic capabilities with fireworks and lasers implausibly shooting out of the large semicircle basin next to Centennial Hall. The result is one of the most dazzling, delightful displays of light, sound and water you’ll ever see;

in fact only a few such fountains exist in the world (although those show-stealing jerks in Warsaw recently got themselves one). Certainly nothing puts a stamp on the end of communism like indulging in some outrageously expensive gadgetry; the cost of running this show on a regular basis must be enormous, but you can see it for free from May until the end of September. The fountain comes to life hourly starting from 10:00 (the timing of the last show changes each month), and performances vary from 3.5 to 18 minutes with a short or long programme of classical music (Wagner, Beethoven), ‘modern’ music (Apocalyptica, Faith No More), or ‘pop’ music (Daft Punk, Madonna). The real stunners, however, happen just after dark on Fri, Sat and Sun, when the full functionality of the fountain is on display, including lights. View the daily schedule in detail (and in English!) online.QO‑5, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.wroclawskafontanna.pl.

WUWA

This rather run-down collection of modernist buildings located just past the Centennial Hall and Wrocław Zoo is what remains of one of six model housing estates built by the Deutscher Werkbund in the late 1920s. Completed in just three months for the 1929 Wohnung und Werkraum Ausstellung (Living and Work Space Exhibition), the estate was meant to showcase new, more efficient building technologies and designs. The 32 structures were assembled from prefabricated elements on site, significantly lowering costs and shortening construction time.

To demonstrate versatility, participating architects designed single-family homes, blocks of flats, a hostel ‘for singles and childless couples’ (ul. Kopernika 9, O-6), and even a preschool (ul. Wróblewskiego 18, O-7), which had to be rebuilt after burning down in a 2006 fire. While today the historical housing development might be underwhelming to all but the most hardcore architecture geeks, it is finally getting a long-overdue facelift. Expect to find a bit of a construction site when you visit and pardon the dust.

Handy maps and more detailed information can be found at www.wuwa.eu or the wonderful WuWA Cafe.

Get here by taking tram no. 10 from ‘Rynek’ or 4 from ‘Galeria Dominikańska’ to ‘Tramwajowa’ or just walking from Centennial Hall. QP‑7, ul. Wróblewskiego, ul.

Tramwajowa, ul. Dembowskiego, ul. Zielonego Dębu, ul. Kopernika, www.wuwa.eu.

WUWA CAFE This tiny spot in a renovated 1920’s tram waiting room should be the first stop on your WuWA excursion.

Here you can pick up a map of the neighbourhood and a free book with detailed information about each WuWA building (in Polish, English, and German), chat with the knowledgeable staff, and indulge in a cup of great coffee from the local Figa roastery and a tasty dessert. Opening hours subject to change.QP‑7, ul.

Tramwajowa 2, tel. (+48) 503 71 80 07. Open 09:0019:00. T­B­6 39

Jewish Wrocław

A memorial to Wrocław’s torched synagogue

Wrocław’s Jewish community is one of the oldest in today’s Poland, dating back to the 12th century when the city was an important trade centre along the Amber Road. Though consistently confronted with persecution, Jews have steadily played a role in the development of the city. By the end of the 19th century, in fact, the Jewish community was so well integrated into Breslau society that many Jews had achieved leading positions in academic and scientific circles; at the time, these men were not considered any less German than they were Jewish. Breslau (as it was then known) possessed the second largest synagogue in Germany and its Jewish community was the third largest in the country with numbers that had risen to 30,000 by the time Hitler came to power.

It doesn’t require much detail from us to know what befell Breslau’s wartime Jewish population. The city’s once magnificent main synagogue - torched on Kristallnacht (November 9, 1938) – says enough, with only a small memorial remembering where it once stood at ul. Łąkowa 6 (A-4). What less people are aware of is that after the war when German Breslau became Polish Wrocław, the city’s Jewish population actually increased dramatically beyond its pre-war levels as the city accepted some 70,000 Jews displaced by the war – many from the Soviet Union.

Ironically, Wrocław’s Jewish population reached its peak immediately after WWII. However, the anti-minority politics of the Soviet Union and communist Poland slowly shrank their numbers until they had been forced out of the country almost completely, with the persecution culminating in 1968. Since the fall of the Soviet Union that number has been slowly rising again, and today there are some 800 Jews living in Wrocław, part of a gradual transition from tracing the past to plotting the future - a ray of hope was the May 2010 reopening of the White Stork Synagogue.

THE BENTE KAHAN FOUNDATION Founded in 2006 to accomplish the renovation of the Synagogue, this outfit organises the monthly events that take place there, including exhibitions, film screenings, workshops, lectures, concerts, theatre performances, and more. For info about Jewish events in Wrocław, start here.

QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 782 81 23, www. fbk.org.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Sat. 40

OLD JEWISH CEMETERY Established in 1856, this 4.6 hectare cemetery is perhaps the most well-preserved testament to the former strength of Breslau’s pre-war Jewish community, with over 1200 gravestones. Closed in 1942, the cemetery quickly fell into deep neglect: in 1945 it was turned into a fortress by the Nazis and saw fierce fighting as evidenced by the eerie bullet holes in many of the gravestones. Preservation began in the 1970s and in 1991 it was opened as the Museum of Jewish Cemetery Art in tribute to the craftsmanship of its sepulchral art.QE‑12, ul. Ślężna 37/39, tel. (+48) 71 791 59 04, www.mmw.pl. Open 09:00-18:00. From November open 09:00-16:00. Admission 15/10zł, Thu free.

THE WHITE STORK SYNAGOGUE The only synagogue in Wrocław to escape the torches of Kristallnacht, the White Stork was built in 1829, taking its name from the inn that once stood in its place. Following the design of prominent German architect Karl Ferdinand Langhans, it is ironically considered a sterling example of 18th century Protestant sacral art. Discreetly hidden from view in a courtyard between ul. Antoniego and ul.

Włodkowica, today the surrounding grounds are full of beer gardens, bohemians, and tourists; however, it was here that members of the Jewish community were rounded up for deployment to the death camps during WWII. Badly damaged, but not set ablaze (thanks only to its proximity to residential buildings), the synagogue was literally left to rot after the war, before the Jewish community was finally able to recover it from the Polish government in 1996 and initiate restoration. Re-opened in May 2010, the synagogue now serves as a worship space, cultural centre, and branch of the Jewish Information Centre, with a new multi-functional hall in the synagogue’s basement, two exhibition spaces on the balconies (one houses a permanent exhibition about the History of Jews in Wrocław and Lower Silesia, while the second is for temporary exhibitions), and a ritual bath.

QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 7, tel. (+48) 511 46 85 81, www. wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Fri 10:0016:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Sat. Opening hours subject to change depending on their events calendar.

Admission free.

Wrocław’s Gnomes One of Wrocław’s most popular, memorable and iconic attractions is not a cathedral, castle or monument, but a legion of little people: gnomes, or ‘krasnale’ (in local parlance), to be precise. In Wrocław’s city centre these merry munchkins are simply ubiquitous - dotting doorways, alleyways and street corners; constantly underfoot but only seen by the observant. You may well overlook the first dozen or so that cross your path, but inevitably and often literally - you will stumble upon these popular local residents. Keep your eyes peeled and you’re bound to notice the little fellas engaged in a variety of activities about town - from guarding public space to passed-out drunk. Beloved by locals and tourists alike, and the object of more photos than the towering Cathedral, these prolific pranksters have become the unlikely symbol of one of PL’s most picturesque cities.

Although it sounds like little more than a twee tourist gimmick, Wrocław’s gnomes actually have a direct correlation to the political climate of the 1980s. Under communism gnomes became the absurdist calling card of the ‘Orange Alternative’ - an underground protest movement that used absurdity and nonsense to stage peaceful, yet subversive protests. Armed with paint cans and led by Waldemar ‘Major’ Fydrych, an artist and student at Wrocław University, the group started out by ridiculing the establishment’s attempts to censor public space. During communism, any anti-establishment graffiti or public art was quickly painted over by the militia; upon seeing fresh daubs of paint, the pranksters of the Orange Alternative quickly painted over them yet again...with gnomes. As the cheeky movement gained popularity, gnomes began to appear in demonstrations as well, with Major Fydrych handing out iconic peaked orange gnome hats to passing pedestrians and leading nonsensical marches for gnomes’ rights. The resulting arrests of orangeclad and ridiculous-looking gnomes, plus dozens of bystanders detained for also wearing red, often made the nightly news and succeeded in making the authorities look idiotic. The movement caught on across the country, and soon gnomes were appearing in other major cities as well.

After the eventual fall of communism in Poland, gnomes remained a symbol of Wrocław, repurposed by the new government to be a tribute to the Orange Movement, as well as playful, family-friendly ambassadors of the city.

The first gnome statuette was Papa Krasnal (the largest of his progeny), who was placed on the corner of ul. Świdnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (E-6), where Orange Alternative demonstrations often took place, to celebrate the history of the Orange Alternative in 2001.

Things really took off in 2005, however, when local artist Tomasz Moczek - a graduate of the Wrocław Academy of Fine Arts - was commissioned by Wrocław City Council to create five more gnomes. The little devils proved so popular that envious local businesses quickly got in on the game by contracting other local artists to produce more, and in almost no time at all gnomes had proliferated around Wrocław to the point that they now constitute a veritable

Photo by Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office, Muncipality of Wrocław

‘sub-population’ of the city. The little buggers are currently rumoured to be running rampant to the score of over 300(!), making it literally impossible for us to try and keep track of them, or for visitors to try to find all of them on their own. Seeing how many gnomes you can spot while you’re in Wrocław, however, is an incredibly fun alternative to traditional sightseeing, and a great way to keep the kids involved while tramping around town. To help you out we’ve included 25 of our favourite gnomes on our website, with the exact address and GPS coordinates of their location; head to iyp.me/gnomes to easily find some of the city’s most popular gnomes on your smartphone.

If that’s not enough, you can also pick up a special map from tourist information (Rynek 14, E-5) showing where to find 30 of the most centrally located gnomes, and there is even a special, dual-language (Polish and English) website dedicated to Wrocław’s gnomes - www.krasnale.pl - where you can find their history, photos and other information, including downloadable maps of their various locations. Spend an afternoon as a gnome-watcher and see how many of these mischievous miscreants you can spot as you stroll around town. Happy hunting!

Courtesy of the Muncipality of Wrocław

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Museums

National Museum | © Janna Stoga

ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM Like many of the best museums in Poland, Wrocław’s Archaeological Museum is located inside a building that’s a museum in itself. In this instance the city’s former 15th-century Arsenal plays host to the usual suspects found lurking in most museums of its type. There are English captions now for many exhibits, while others, such as the gargoyles and the reconstructed thatched house fascinate without the need to know more. With four free permanent exhibits - Stone Age and early Bronze Age, Bronze Age, Iron Age and Medieval Silesia, displays include everyday objects from these times such as weapons, ornaments and tools; note that temporary exhibits sometimes require an additional paid ticket. In the same building you’ll also find the Military Museum.

QE‑4, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibitions; temporary exhibits 15/10zł. U ARCHITECTURE MUSEUM A unique exhibition inside the gorgeous 16thcentury former Bernadine monastery, the city’s architecture museum is more of a record of all that was lost in the city during WWII than a true museum of architecture.

Permanent displays include beautiful examples of stained glass from the 12th century through to some spectacular Art Nouveau pieces, a breathtaking collection of tiled ceramic stoves, intricate door handles, Turkish floor tiles, and a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles. There’s a large model of the city as it was in 1740, which clearly shows its status as a fortress surrounded by water, and the occasional 42

temporary exhibit to keep the eyes peeled for. Opening hours subject to change.QH‑5, ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78, www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 10:0017:00; Thu, Fri 12:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/14zł, groups over 10 people 10zł per person. Wed free. U ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Located outside the Old Town in the gorgeous 18thcentury Neo-Baroque summer palace of Wrocław’s bishops, this under-appreciated museum traces Silesian folk culture and customs. The best part may be the top floor where life-sized dolls are arranged in quaint scenes of life in the region before 1945. It won’t take you long to see it, but the national costumes and farm equipment offer a glimpse of life you won’t find in urban Wrocław. And the museum’s strange fondness for the definite article in the English labels is worth a giggle. To get there take tram 3 from ‘Rynek,’ getting off at ‘Pl. Zgody.’QJ‑8, ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, www.muzeumetnograficzne. pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Thu 09:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł, children under 7 free, groups of over 10 pay 5zł per person, Sat free for permanent exhibitions. Admission free with a ticket to the Racławice Panorama. N­U

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Museums MILITARY MUSEUM The other half of the 15th-century arsenal that houses the Archaeology Museum is, appropriately, the Military Museum. Not surprisingly, the medieval halls are filled with arms and weapons of all sorts, many of them dating to the 18th century. Helmets, swords, and guns are the forte here, and you probably know better than we do if it’s worth the hour of your time it’ll consume.QE‑4, ul.

Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.mmw. pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibits; temporary exhibits 15/10zł.

NATIONAL MUSEUM Located in a gorgeous ivy-covered Dutch NeoRenaissance building from the 19th century, Wrocław’s National Museum houses one of the largest collections of Polish art. There are five permanent exhibits: Silesian Art of the 12-16th centuries (including lots of stone sculpture work and medieval religious art), Silesian Art of the 16-19th centuries (covering the Renaissance up to the beginnings of Modernism), Polish Art of the same period (including national artefacts and historical paintings by Gierymski, Grottger, Malczewski and Matejko), European Art of the 15-20th centuries (following the leading artistic movements with work

by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, Agnolo Bronzino, Cosimo Rosselli, Raphael’s father Giovanni Santi, and Wassily Kandinsky), and masterpieces of Eastern handicraft (displayed in the building’s attic). While the collections may not be the best in Europe, the interior is breathtaking, and there is a certain aura to the setting that makes this a must for art history buffs.QI‑5, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50, www.mnwr.art.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:3018:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł for permanent exhibition, students under 26 (with ID) 1zł, family/ group 10zł per person, children under 7 free. Sat free for permanent exhibitions. Admission free with a ticket from the nearby Racławice Panorama. U NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Halls full of massive skeletons, stuffed animal corpses posed on fake landscapes, butterflies pinned to boards - all natural history museums are gloomy places and this is no exception. The collection was founded as part of the University of Wrocław in 1811 and moved to its own building in 1906. The entire collection was destroyed in World War II, but has been replaced since and now numbers about three million animals and half a million plants. You won’t find almost any info in English, but for bio-buffs it’s the Latin that matters, right? Four permanent exhibits in total - World of Plants, World of Animals, Insects & Humans, and Skeletal System. Last entry 45 minutes before closing.QH‑3, ul. Sienkiewicza 21, tel. (+48) 71 375 41 45, www. muzeum-przyrodnicze.uni.wroc.pl. Open 09:0015:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 14/10zł. N

KONSPIRA In addition to being a fantastic Polish restaurant, Konspira is a self-declared ‘Centre for Historical Education.’ The interior is designed to emulate the 1980s, while giving guests a glimpse into the Soviet era via newspapers, posters, political cartoons and other iconography on the walls.In fact, one of the restaurant’s wardrobes is actually a secret passageway into a hidden room that recreates an ‘80s Polish apartment, filled with everyday household items, toys, appliances, and even police batons and riot gear from the martial law days. It’s a unique look into the past, and the fact that the staff isn’t that forthcoming about it (you might have to ask) almost makes the act of entry feel cooly clandestine.

This entire establishment is a bit of a museum, and though you’ll get more out of it with a local guide, even without one it’s worth investigating; and the food is certainly worth staying for.QE‑5, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00, www.konspira.org. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00.

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Museums HYDROPOLIS

Pan Tadeusz Museum

Just about halfway between the Old Town and the Centennial Hall you’ll find a 1893 neo-Gothic water tank turned high-tech multimedia museum dedicated - most appropriately - to the very stuff it used to hold.

Divided into eight thematic parts and started off with a short 360-degree film which takes you from the Big Bang to nucleosynthesis to the formation of planets to the origin of Earth’s aqua, Hydropolis is a friendlyfor-all-ages discovery zone where visitors can peek at creatures found in a drop of water, spin an Archimedes’ screw, sit in a replica of the Trieste bathyscaphe, which made a descent to the bottom of the Mariana Trench in 1960, or kick back in the sea-sounds-andbioluminescent-jellyfish relaxation space. Informative and impressively designed, this is one experience we wholeheartedly recommend. To get here, take tram number 3 from Rynek or Galeria Dominikańska to pl. Zgody, then backtrack a bit and turn right on ul. Szybka; you’ll cross a small bridge before hitting ul. Na Grobli, at which point the museum will be on your right.QK‑7, ul. Na Grobli 19-21, tel. (+48) 71 340 95 15, www.hydropolis.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 27/18zł, family ticket 72zł.

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PAN TADEUSZ MUSEUM Find out more than you ever thought you would about Polish bard Adam Mickiewicz (and his times) at this new, more inviting branch of Wrocław’s Ossolineum, occupying some prime market square real estate with super-modern, multi-lingual, multimedia museum exhibits. Pride of place goes to the original manuscript of Mickiewicz’s epic poem Pan Tadeusz (from which the museum takes its name), surrounded by hundreds of historical objects, digital documents and photos, 3D animation and augmented reality displays - a fantastic way to learn about Romantic era Poland, even if you have little interest in poetry itself.

Other exhibits focus on 20th-century history via the life stories of Polish patriots Jan Nowak-Jeziorański and Władysław Bartoszewski, who both left large collections to the Ossolineum upon their passing. A limited number of free audioguides will be available to augment the exhibits.QE‑5, Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 71 755 06 00, www. muzeumpanatadeusza.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł or 12/6zł to see one of the permanent exhibitions. Sun 1zł.

POST & COMMUNICATIONS MUSEUM Housed inside 1929’s former Central Post Office, this magnificent building was one of the first high-rises in Wrocław and is easily recognisable from the Old Town thanks to the crown of satellite dishes on its roof. Today it houses one of the city’s most idiosyncratic and fascinating museums, displaying the complex history of Poland’s postal service and the development of communications technology from the 16th century to the present day. Over two floors you’ll see a wealth of paintings and graphics, postage stamps, mailboxes, mail carriages, uniforms, decorative letter scales, and other instruments including early telegram machines, telephones, radios, and computers.

The unique and engrossing experience even includes information in English and is a great way to change your attitude towards PL’s postal service from one of frustration to admiration and wonder. Visiting takes about 1 hour and is recommended. English and German language guided group tours are available if arranged in advance.QH‑6, ul.

Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 65, www.muzeum. wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Wed 10:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 09:30-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł, Sat free. Groups over 10 people 5zł per person.

Museums RACŁAWICE PANORAMA

Detail of Kościuszko directing his rag-tag army.

This unique 15 by 140m panoramic painting depicts the first battle of the Kościuszko Uprising, in which General Tadeusz Kościuszko orchestrated and led an armed peasant rebellion against Russian rule in a heroic bid for Polish independence in 1794. Kosciuszko’s rag-tag scythe-wielding troops won the day, but the Uprising was ultimately doomed and Poland wouldn’t be truly self-governing until the 20th century. That hasn’t stopped the short-lived victory from being an enduring source of Polish pride to this day, however.

The Panorama was created in a burst of patriotic fervour

by Jan Styka and Wojciech Kossak in Lwów over 9 months, and completed in 1894. Their work, displayed in a rotunda built especially for it, was a popular and financial - success. After WWII, the Soviet Union, which absorbed Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine), sent the painting to Wrocław. Its subject, however, was a bit too nationalistic for the local Communist authorities, who rejected several bids to display it. The current building was completed in 1967, but the Panorama itself was not installed for display until 1985. Unfortunately almost nothing has changed since then, and the overpriced attraction is run in the same manner it was 30 years ago. Still, an unbelievable 1,600 people (including dozens of school groups) file through each day, so don’t expect to just walk right in; admission occurs every half-hour and you’ll very likely have to wait. The painting is augmented with lights and artificial terrain to make the experience more ‘real’ as you are narrated through the battle by a taped lecture on your own private headset which is available in an astounding 17 languages (including Esperanto). Poles will consider it their patriotic duty to come here, but the experience may resonate less positively with other tourists, unless you’re a fan of obscure and forgotten genres of 19th century art.QH‑5, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 71 344 23 44, www.panoramaraclawicka.pl. Open 09:0016:30; Sat 09:00-18:30; Sun 09:00-17:30. Admission 30/23zł, family ticket 23zł per person, children under 7 free. Sat free. U

THE DEPOT HISTORY CENTRE This old bus depot has been brilliantly transformed into a two-floor museum telling the history of Wrocław after WWII. Opened in September 2016, the large open space has been cleverly refitted with intimate museum displays that recreate historical spaces and settings to lead the viewer through major moments in Poland’s postwar history. The rebuilding and repopulating of Wrocław is well-covered, as is the country’s reckoning with communism, martial law, and the story of the Solidarity movement. The modern multimedia displays are extremely informative in English and Polish, and in addition to the permanent exhibit (titled ‘Wrocław 1945-2016’), there are also changing temporary exhibits, an outdoor gallery and a play area for kids; reserve at least 90mins for the exhibits. Located well southwest of the Old Town, it’s only appropriate that you should take public transportation here (ideally the number 4 tram from ‘Świdnicka,’ getting off at ‘Bzowa (Centrum Zajezdnia)’; journey takes 20mins.Qul. Grabiszyńska 184, tel. (+48) 71 715 96 02, www.zajezdnia.org. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; Thu 10:00-17:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. U THE ROYAL PALACE, HISTORY MUSEUM The main branch of the Wrocław City Museum, housed inside the renovated Baroque Royal Palace, is Wrocław’s most essential museum. Purchased by Frederick the Great of Prussia in 1750, the palace was converted to become the royal residence of the Prussian Hohenzolern kings - a function which it served from the 17th to 20th century.

Badly damaged during WWII, only half of the structure survived and now houses three free permanent exhibitions: ‘1000 Years of Wrocław’, tracing the complex history of the Lower Silesian capital from the Middle Ages to the modern day through its art and artefacts; the meticulously recreated royal apartments; and the unique Beyersdorf Room, decorated entirely in Dutch tiles from the 17th century but temporarily closed to visitors as we send this guide off to print. It takes the better part of a day to see it all, but there’s a nice cafe when you need a break, and make sure you don’t miss the regal Baroque gardens behind the palace.QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35, tel. (+48) 71 391 69 40, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission free for permanent exhibits. English-speaking guided tour 400zł. Audio guides in English and German 15 zł. U

The Depot History Centre

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© Marcin Jędrzejczak

Museums WROCŁAW CONTEMPORARY MUSEUM This old air raid shelter just west of the Old Town has been resurrected as a place for contemporary art in Wrocław. The round and concrete above-ground bunker has been cleverly adapted with an elevator at its centre which whizzes you up to the fantastic 6th floor cafe, which features a terrace and great views, and may just be the highlight of visiting here. As for the art, the permanent exhibit focuses on contemporary art from the 20th century with a strong Wrocław presence and they have numerous temporary exhibitions (see our Events section, p.12). The most striking pieces in the whole collection are outside the museum itself.

Train to Heaven

© sidbradypus, Dollar Photo Club

Local artist Stanisław Dróżdż’s Hour-glass on the facade of the building and the amazing and enormous Train to Heaven sculpture of a vertical locomotive nearby will make you get your camera out. To get there, hop on trams 3, 10, 20, 23, or 33 (quite a bit of choice there) at the ‘Rynek’ stop, getting off 3 stops later at ‘Pl. Strzegomski.’QPl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne. pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Mon 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibits; temporary exhibits 10/5zł, family ticket available, children under 6 free. Thu free. U

NEON WROCŁAW Communist Poland typically calls to mind a cold, colourless landscape of uniform concrete drabness essentially the antithesis of energetic and illuminated Times Square or Las Vegas, the very pinnacles of capitalist decadence and indecency. The little known irony here, however, is that neon signage - which is most closely associated with American commercialism and consumerism - was actually prolific in the People’s Republic of Poland during the Cold War era. After Socialist Realism died with Stalin in the late 50s, a new, less restricted period of creative expression began in Poland, and neon rather oddly became the favoured medium of city authorities looking for an inexpensive way to brighten the grey urban landscape and create a veneer of economic prosperity at a time when stores shelves were practically bare. During the ‘neonisation’ programme of the 1960s and ‘70s, the country’s most gifted architects and graphic designers were commissioned to create unique neon advertising for everything from Polish products and state-run companies to cultural landmarks like cinemas, theatres, nightclubs, and train stations.

Though the collapse of the communist economy meant the plug got pulled on the country’s neons back in the late ‘70s, today neon is back in vogue and the country’s signs are being restored. Neon greets visitors immediately upon arrival throughout the Wrocław train station (G-8), and the famous ‘Dobry Wieczór we Wrocławiu’ (Good Evening in Wrocław) sign across the street is there to welcome you as soon as you step foot outside (G-8). Other famous Soviet-era neons include the entrance gate of the Wrocław Zoo (N-7) and the animated antics of the burglar atop the PZU building on Plac Kościuszki (E-7), while the modern, hand-scripted sign of the Academy of Fine Arts (ul.

Traugutta 19/21, H-6) encapsulates the comeback this art form has made in recent years. The coolest place on Wrocław’s neon map, however, is the Neon Side outdoor gallery located in a courtyard at ul. Ruska 46C (D-5), which gathers numerous salvaged neon signs in one place. On our website you’ll find all of Wrocław’s most electrifying neons listed with GPS coordinates so you can use the mobile version of our website (wroclaw.inyourpocket.com) on your smartphone to easily go out and get your ne-on.

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Activities & Experiences If you’re looking for an alternative way to experience Wrocław and Lower Silesia, or simply enjoy letting ‘the pros’ organise your time, check out the activities below. More online at iyp.me/polandshop

WROCLAW ROLLING TOURS Roll along in somewhat dorky but quite comfy style and see a whole lotta the city in the process during this company’s scooter tours, including the Grand Scooter Tour (2.5h, daily at 9:30, 100zł/person) and Classic Scooter Tour (1.5h, daily at 18:30, 80zł/ person); or try a scooter-less day trip to Książ Castle, Project Riese tunnels (which you can read more about on the next page), the UNESCO-listed Churches of Peace in Świdnica and Jawor, and other destinations in Lower Silesia and beyond. Wroclaw Rolling Tours can also organise airport transfers.Qtel. (+48) 793 15 43 30, www.wroclawrollingtours.com.

TOURCITY PANORAMA This outfit offers personalised sightseeing tours around Wrocław in their fleet of comfortable electric cars. Standard 60-minute tours will let you see the main sights of the Old Town (p.26) and Ostrów Tumski (p.32), while a 90-minute tour is a good way to get out to Centennial Hall (p.36) and the Zoo (p.51). Tours are available in English, Polish, and sometimes German. Groups over 7 people should contact the company by email at wroctours@ gmail.com, while smaller groups can make reservations by phone.QH‑5, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 728 97 90 70, www. tourcitypanorama.pl.

PASSENGER CRUISES River cruises are a popular way of exploring Wrocław’s elaborate waterways and viewing the city from a different perspective.

While many are seasonal, this outfit offers year-round excursions from three different harbours aboard five different vessels.

40-50 minute panoramic river cruises are available leaving from the Przystań Kardynalska on Piasek Island (G-4), Przystań Zwierzyniecka (ul. Wróblewskiego 1, M-6), and Przystań Zoo (near the Wrocław Zoo, N-7) for the reasonable rate of 20-25zł.

QM‑6, ul. Wróblewskiego 1, tel. (+48) 609 20 08 67, www. statekpasazerski.pl.

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wroclawrollingtours.com +48 793 154 330 office@wroclawrollingtours.com every day tours at 9:30 and 18:30 prices: 20,00-25,00 EUR/person

MUNICIPAL SWIMMING POOLS This gorgeous complex in the very centre of Wrocław, dating back to 1895-97, was built to house the city municipal baths.

A beauty from the outside, the interior ornamentation of the three-pool complex includes sculpted sandstone, stained-glass windows, artistic ceramic tiles, vaulted ceilings, and colonnades inspired by the ancient hot baths of Rome. Currently serviced by SPA Centre Wrocław, full spa services are also on hand.QF‑6, ul. Teatralna 10-12, tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43, www.spa.wroc.pl.

Open 06:00-23:00; Sat 08:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00. Opening hours subject to change. Admission 18/16zł.

PROJECT RIESE TUNNELS Eighty kilometres southwest of Wrocław, underneath the ‘Sowie,’ or Owl Mountains, lie seemingly endless kilometres of mysterious abandoned tunnels. It was here, in 1943, that Hitler ordered the undertaking of a massive, top-secret project known as ‘Riese’ (Giant) - one of the Führer’s most ambitious schemes, the exact nature of this underground complex remains unclear and subject to many fanciful conspiracy theories. The corridors are now run as tourist attractions and can be toured with amateur historians, who often do more to mystify than demystify the history. To find out more head to iyp.me/riese.

HIKING MT. ŚLĘŻA Rising out of Lower Silesian plains some 40 kilometres southwest of Wrocław, this 718m peak was, and in some ways still is, the most important site of Pagan worship in Poland. With remnants of stone rings dating back to the Bronze or Iron Age and animalistic sculptures of uncertain origin, the peak is now a popular weekend hiking destination for Wroclavians, with a network of trails and a mountain hut sitting on its top. To hike it yourself, take a bus from Wrocław to the town of Sobótka and follow the red trail from the main square - it will be about 2h10 to the top. For more information, go to iyp.me.sleza.

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Kids & Families

Kid-friendly activities on the main square.

Wrocław might just be one of the best cities for toting your little ones around without boring them to tears - that’s because the city is filled with little people of its own, in the form of ubiquitous, sometimes challenging-to-spot gnomes (p.41), a veritable army of over 300. Trust us on this: gnome spotting is an IYP-certified way to keep kids entertained as you do your yawn-worthy adult sightseeing thing. Other old town highlights might be the panoramic view points atop the tower of St. Elizabeth’s Church (p.28) and the open-air Penitents’ Bridge of St. Mary Magdalene’s Church (p.28), barring - of course - that your kids (or you) have a debilitating fear of heights; keep in mind that you’ll have to scamper up a couple hundred stairs to get to either, so your kid either needs to be light enough for you to carry without throwing your back out (but hey, it’s good cardio), or energetic enough to make it up there without outsourcing legwork to you. For a less medieval experience, choose the 49th-floor viewing platform in Sky Tower (p.86), where a zippy elevator makes it all simple.

Relaxing family times can be had in the lush Botanical Garden (p.35) and Japanese Garden (p.38) or - if you prefer fauna to flora - in the Wrocław Zoo and its new Afrykarium centre, which stars sharks, penguins, and a couple of fat hippos. For a memorable dining experience for both adults and children, don’t hesitate to visit Konspira (p.43) a restaurant and historical education centre dedicated to communist times, featuring a hidden room and play area for kids; follow up with dessert at the Słodkie Czary Mary sweets shop, where you can see candy being made before your eyes (p.83).

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The ‘city of one hundred bridges’ also has plenty of opportunities for paddling around its numerous waterways (in the warm season), or letting yourself be ferried around onboard an excursion boat (year-round - see Passenger Cruises on p.48). For splashing around indoors, there are the historical Municipal Swimming Pools (p.49), worth seeing for the interior decor alone, and the Aquapark, one of the country’s finest. Meanwhile, the award for most kidfriendly museum would probably go to Hydropolis (p.44), a new discovery centre dedicated to, well, water.

But that’s certainly not all - Wrocław has an entire lineup of places made specifically with children in mind, from a vintage-style carousel to Poland’s largest model train exhibit Kolejkowo to many outdoor playgrounds - one of which you’ll find conveniently on Bielarska Island (G-3) just north of the centre.

Good luck, go and make those family memories!

Carousel

Barbara Maliszewska CC BY-SA 3.0

Kids & Families PARK STAROMIEJSKI CAROUSEL Open until the end of October. Somehow still a staple of kids’ entertainment over 200 years after first becoming popular, the humble carousel is found in parks, shopping malls, and fun fairs across the globe - and in the odd horror film. As days grow warmer, Wrocław breaks out its own: a French-style wooden creation painted with city landmarks, located in Park Staromiejski next to the Wrocław Puppet Theatre.QB‑4, ul. Teatralna (Park Staromiejski). Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. 2zł for a 3-minute ride.

splendid Soviet-era neon sign at the entrance. Brand-new to the zoo is the impressive African aquarium complex or ‘Afrykarium’ - three levels of exhibits focussed on the diverse water environments of Africa, including hippos, sharks, manatees, crocodiles, penguins (in Africa? Who knew?) and more. With over 14,000 critters of some 1,100 different species, the zoo is one of Wrocław’s most visited attractions and also provides foreigners with an opportunity to pick up a few phrases from one of the only Polish-speaking macaws in the world (making good money on the side as a voice talent for Polish dub-overs of Disney flicks).QN‑6, ul.

Wróblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 71 340 71 19, www.zoo. wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00.

October open 09:00-17:00; Fri, Sat Sun 09:00-18:00. From November Open 09:00-16:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00-17:00.

Admission 51/41zł. Family ticket available.

Photo by Piojga CC BY-SA 4.0

KOLEJKOWO Aptly located in Wrocław’s historic Świebodzki train station, this is the largest model train exhibit in PL, covering more than 330 square metres with 510 metres of track. The highly detailed models are a clear labour of love for the artists that create them and include some 242 model buildings, plus almost 3500 original hand-sculpted figures of people and animals, in highly creative and curious scenarios - nuns on bikes, farmers unloading hogs off a truck, sex workers waiting for clients, sunbathers, circus performers, skiers, hikers, and more. Perhaps best of all, the exhibit incorporates easily recognisable landmarks from around Wrocław and Lower Silesia, including the townhouses of Wrocław’s market square, the ul. Bogusławskiego train tressle, the PZU neon side on Plac Kościuszki (it works!), the old Świebodzki train station the exhibit is located in, plus Karpacz and the Śnieżka Weather Observatory. In addition to all that, there are also moving cars throughout the displays (the magic of magnets!), the displays are fully illuminated as they dim the overhead lights to simulate evening, and there’s even a play area for kids to build their own track. Quite impressive in its detail and a joy for young kids, the amount of original work that has gone into this family attraction justifies its somewhat steep admission price.QC‑6, Pl. Orląt Lwowskich 20B, tel. (+48) 880 00 80 04, www.kolejkowo.pl. Open 10:0018:00. Admission 23/17zł. Children under 3 free.

WROCŁAW ZOO & AFRYKARIUM A product of the city’s dynamic development in the late 19th century, Wrocław’s zoo dates back to 1865 and became the oldest in the country when Poland inherited it after World War II. Suffering severe wartime damage, many of the zoo’s elegant historic buildings were reconstructed and can be found in the southern part of the park; also don’t miss the

Wrocław Zoo & Afrykarium

WROCŁAW AQUAPARK Completed in 2008, Wrocław’s water park is easily one of the finest in the country and makes for a nice respite from the city’s confoundingly complex history and high-minded cultural attractions. And it’s probably the only place your kids will tell their friends about from their trip to Wrocław. Starting from either ‘Rynek’ or ‘Galeria Dominikańska’, you can take a) bus K to ‘Borowska’ or b) tram 23 to ‘Pl. Jana Pawła II’ followed by bus 122 to ‘Petrusewicza’.QF‑11, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48) 71 771 15 11, www.aquapark.wroc.pl. Open 08:0023:00. Fitness Centre, saunas, and sport pool all have independent hours. Check the website for exact times and up-to-date prices. Admission 49zł for a day pass, 29zł for 2hrs, each additional minute 0.60zł.

Photo by Wrocławski Park Wodny S.A., CC BY-SA 3.0

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Cafés

Breakfast in Central Cafe

AMORINIO.PL This colourful Italian cafe offers enough sundaes, shakes, and other sweet treats to make all the teeth of a shark fall out in ecstasy. Seriously, the sheer variety of desserts available here is awe-inspiring and makes deciding a challenging conundrum (don’t worry, there’s no incorrect choice). The modern design is eclectic, but smart, with exposed bricks, wallpaper disguised as tile mosaic, and a subtle angel theme. A great place to take the kids.QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 44, www. amorinio.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 09:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-22:00. T­6 BEMA CAFE Probably the nicest cafe north of the Odra, we aren’t the only ones gushing about Bema Cafe, which was nominated for the ‘Ale Lokale 2013’ award. A rather industrial interior design of coarse concrete and bare bulbs is offset by large display cases and plenty of natural light, and the terrace boasts perhaps the only parasols in town devoid of corporate emblems. Open early for breakfast (served all day!) and offering plenty of yummy sweets and lunch eats, absolutely delicious fresh juices and amazing coffee drinks prepared with a variety of alternative brewing techniques, we find ourselves using this hip, neighbourhood cafe so often as an office, that it’s actually starting to feel more like... well, home. Heartily recommended.QG‑3, ul. Drobnera 38, tel. (+48) 71 322 02 12, www.bemacafe.pl. Open 08:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. T­U­6 52

BUŁKA Z MASŁEM This fantastic venue succeeds at being a casual restaurant, trendy cafe, and after-hours hangout all at the same time, thus making it a trick for us to categorise, but a joy to drop by any time of day. In addition to daily specials, the simple, laminated menu offers affordable eats: breakfast (served till noon on weekdays, 13:00 weekends), burgers, and salads, plus a concise list of cocktails, shakes, and lemonades. Achieving that rare feat of mass appeal and hipster approval, Bułka z Masłem makes the shortlist of must-visit Wroc venues whether you want a coffee, beer, or bite to eat.QD‑6, ul.

Włodkowica 8A. Open 09:00-23:00; Wed 09:00-24:00; Thu 09:00-00:30; Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:0024:00. 6 CAFE ROZRUSZNIK This small, charming corner cafe (under Blu’s mural on ul. Pomorska) has a great neighbourhood vibe and is quite the hip hangout for wholesome young urbanites.

Full of retro fittings, burlap coffee bags on the walls and a kumquat tree on the window counter - drop in to enjoy fair trade coffee (they even have trendy brewing techniques like Aeropress), some sweets and limited vegetarian eats, wifi, and Sunday morning sounds emanating lazily from the record player where you’d expect a cash register to be. Almost makes you want to look at apartments nearby so you can start every day here.QF‑3, ul. Cybulskiego 15. Open 07:30-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. T­B­6

Cafés CENTRAL CAFE Around the corner from Pasaż Niepolda and open early here’s a good place to start your day. This American-style bakery cafe offers a blackboard menu (in Polish and English) with plenty of familiar breakfast options, including pancakes with maple syrup, bagels and cream cheese, yoghurt with granola and honey, oatmeal loaded with yummy toppings, pastries, cupcakes, quiche, pastrami, and more. Of course, there’s coffee and smoothies as well, plus plenty of space to park it and observe the cute clientele enjoying their oatmeal until your eyes are sufficiently wide enough to take your sightseeing back into town. The spacious, high-ceilinged, classic interior also serves as a great place to work or discuss business.QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 794 96 23, www.centralcafe.pl. Open 07:00-21:00; Sat 09:0021:00; Sun 09:00-16:00. T­U­B­6 COCOFLI A strained acronym for coexistence, cooperation, friendship, love and identity, Cocofli has become a bit of a cultural meeting place with an antiquated intellectual aesthetic thanks to a mish-mash of furnishings including a wall-length bookshelf, old telephone switchboard, and unique decorative art. Here they’re hip to all the alternative coffee brewing techniques and offer rice, soy, or almond milk, or you enjoy a glass of wine or a local craft beer.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 756 99 90. Open 10:00-24:00. T­B­6 ETNO CAFE Etno Cafe is a Wrocław institution, bravely fending off competition from foreign chains like Starbucks, Costa, and Green Cafe Nero while continuing to open new locations around the city. Founded by Ethiopian ecotoxicology PhD student Natnael Tesfaye Hamda and his Polish friends, the Etno brand began as a coffee importer and roaster, sourcing beans straight from Ethiopia. Their first cafe opened in 2015 inside the tiny cult venue Okrąglak, a somewhat mysterious and decidedly cylindrical pre-WWII building on Pl. Kościuszki.

A year later the cafe got to star in a slightly cringy music video for C-BooL’s song Never Go Away, and meanwhile Etno were busy branching out into other locations. As of 2019, they have put down roots in eight Polish cities; in Wrocław, find them at the OVO building (ul. Podwale 83, H-6), near the main train station (ul. Piłsudskiego 101, F-8), and in the Pasaż Grunwaldzki (plac Grunwaldzki 22, K-4) and Wroclavia (ul.

Sucha 1, F-9) shopping malls.QE‑7, Okrąglak, Pl. Kościuszki, tel. (+48) 71 307 10 03, www.etnocafe.pl. Open 07:0020:30; Sat 09:00-20:30; Sun 10:30-19:00. B­6 GNIAZDO Our laptopping cafe of choice, with an easy-going ambiance, fast wi-fi, and conveniently located electrical outlets. Decorated in a modern blackboard / wood / whitewashed brick theme, ‘the Nest’ now offers not only great coffee (including drip, aeropress, and chemex) and delicious cake, but also a selection of bagels, hummus, breakfast options, and healthy lunch bowls with protein, grains, and veggies.QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 36, tel. (+48) 790 36 36 86. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-21:00. T­6

COFFEE ICE CREAM CAKES

Wita Stwosza 1-2, Wrocław www.amorinio.pl

PALOMA Our new favourite. Located right on Plac Solny, this Ukrainian-owned specialty coffee shop and roaster is a lovely, laptopper-friendly space decorated in an industrial aesthetic, serving absolutely delectable coffee. Apart from the standard list of espresso-based drinks, you’ll find pour-over, V6, Aeropress, and Chemex brews (choose from Rwandan, Ethiopian, and Kenyan beans), espresso affogato, Viennese coffee, Thai coffee, and more, as well as a limited selection of breakfast options (porridge, granola, croissants). They even organise concerts (Fri and Sat) and occasional cupping sessions and open coffee roasting check their facebook for more info.QE‑5, Plac Solny 8-9, tel. (+48) 881 33 12 28. Open 08:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 08:0022:00. T­U­E­6 VINYL CAFE This groovy little cafe is an obvious labour of love, and old school audiophiles will literally feel right at home with the living room arrangement around the hi-fi record player. Full of cosy armchairs, crates of vinyl LPs and shelves of books, come in, pick out a 45, curl up with a coffee or beer and a book and you’ve got yourself the perfect afternoon. The sound system is state-of-the-art, their extensive record collection ranges from Dizzy Gillespie to Devendra Banhart, and bonus points for the policy of making sure a side plays all the way to the end before it gets changed. QF‑5, ul.

Kotlarska 35-36/1A, tel. (+48) 508 26 02 88. Open 10:0024:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-01:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. T­U­B­6 53

Traditional Polish Dishes Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and not especially colourful. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below, all of which you should be able to find in any Polish restaurant that’s worth its salt (p.68 & 69). Smacznego!

BARSZCZ A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking (‘barszcz solo’). A recommended alternative to other beverages with any winter meal, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

BIGOS Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

GOŁĄBKI Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is kind of like a ‘cabbage enchilada,’ if we may say so. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served under a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

GOLONKA This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and the ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a true delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman.

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KOTLET SCHABOWY Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

PIEROGI Poland’s most famous food, you haven’t had pierogi until you’ve had them in PL. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage, or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, however, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and they are served literally everywhere.

PLACKI ZIEMNIACZANE These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

ŻUREK It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a unique sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl.

55

Restaurants

Pinto Per-Peri (p.70)

The diversity and quality of restaurants in Wrocław is ever improving - as is the quality of service - and the city’s respectable number of international restaurants reflects its status as a thriving urban centre. While In Your Pocket once tried to list every eatery in the city centre, the expansion of the market and sheer redundancy of many restaurants now make that pursuit impractical. In our dining section you’ll find reviews of the most noteworthy and high-profile establishments in town, from those wellhidden places you shouldn’t miss, to prime locations you should swerve. While our print guide carries a large selection of restaurants, if you can’t find it here you’ll most certainly find it on our website (wrocław.inyourpocket. com), where we list dozens more reviews and encourage you to leave your own comments about the places you’ve visited.

All IYP reviews are completely subjective, unsolicited and updated regularly to ensure accuracy at press time.

The figures we quote in brackets represent the least and most expensive main courses on the menu. The hours we list are not necessarily the opening hours, but rather the times between which you can expect the chef to be working. Below are some specific recommendations depending on what you might be looking for.

Smacznego!

SPLURGE For fine dining in an unforgettable location head to the Monopol’s rooftop Restauracja Acquario (p.62); Mennicza Fusion (p.61), Brasserie 27 (p.60), and Sukiennice 7 (p.63) are the city’s best-of (in our esteem, anyway).

56

CHEAP Wrocław is full of cheap eats. The quality is consistently high in MoaBurger (p.57), and Panczo (p.67), while Polish snacks and shots bars (p.76) are popular with nighttime revellers. The city’s numerous vegan eateries (p.71) are known for their low prices, and if it’s Polish you’re after, head to Chatka Przy Jatkach (p.68) or Konspira (p.69).

LADS Bernard (p.60) offers litre steins of Czech beer and plates piled high with hot snacks for sharing, while the busty maidens of the Bierhalle brewery (p.74) along with costumed gents of Pod Fredrą (p.69) will keep you plied with beer and brats until you burst your buttons.

COUPLES See our picks under ‘Splurge,’ all of which will impress with their high quality food, go for dinner and a concert at Vertigo (p.63), or wine and dine on the water in OK Wine Bar (p.61).

FAMILIES Kids get a kick out of dining on the water in Barka Tumska (p.59) and Wratislavia (p.63). Alternatively, have fun watching them search for the ‘secret room’ in Konspira (p.69). For further options look for the child-friendly symbol T at the end of each listing.

SPECIAL DIET Plant-eaters have it good in Wrocław, just see our Vegetarian & Vegan section (p.71). Vega (p.71) is right on the market square, and fine gluten-free dining can be found in La Maddalena (p.61).

Restaurants SYMBOL & PRICE KEY 6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

W Wi-fi connection X Smoking room available o Year-Round Garden

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

AMERICAN BUTCHERY & GRILL A semi-casual steak and burger restaurant in the Sukiennice that features red and white chequered tablecloths and open views of the grillmaster at work. The steak menu is limited to about ten tourist-priced cuts imported from various corners of the world, and isn’t nearly as varied as the illustrated diagrams that rather impressively decorate the walls. Wrocław is full of places where you can order a burger these days, and after making a complete mess with one here, we left craving something better.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 6, tel. (+48) 71 342 74 62, www. butcheryandgrill.pl. Open 12:00-23:30. €€€. T­6 HARD ROCK CAFE HRC doesn’t really need explaining. This legendary rock ‘n’ roll chain is opening its fourth restaurant in Poland, bringing the usual BBQ grub, alc, and music memorabilia to a prime location on the main square. Among the treasures spread out over two floors you’ll find Elton John’s shoes, Beyonce’s corset, Lady Gaga’s leather cape, guitars used by Santana and Alice Cooper, Elvis’s microphone, and John Lennon’s 1960’s TV set. The menu is the usual romp through burgers (including a very ‘Polish’ creation with white sausage and sauerkraut), steak, ribs, fries, chicken, and alcoholic drinks.

QF‑5, Rynek 25, tel. (+48) 71 726 11 40, www.hardrock. com/cafes/wroclaw/pl/. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. E­6 MOABURGER Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography all over the interior that this is a NZ take on the classic American burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes, they’ve certainly super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a plate just wouldn’t do) piled high with the topping of your choice, and you might even consider splitting one with a friend if you have any other meals planned later in the day. Easy to eat and darn enjoyable, though you’ll discover it’s not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries, and drink coming in over 30zł.QE‑5, Pl. Solny 10, tel. (+48) 71 330 74 82, www.moaburger.com.

Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-01:00. €. T­6

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back.

This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment.

Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).

As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.

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Piłsudskiego 98, Wrocław (vis a vis Main Station) bistrostationwroclaw tel: + 48 517 070 124 57

Restaurants SOCZEWKA A wide and nuanced assortment of delicious gourmet burgers on the market square, including a number of vegetarian options - how often do you get the chance to eat a mac&cheese or pumpkin burger? There’s also a wide array of mojitos and whisky, and seating opposite the Town Hall or in the sharp interior. When we’re going through cheddar cheese withdrawal, this is our sanatorium; in fact, it’s hard to over-praise this place - it’s just that good.QF‑5, ul. Rynek 20/21, tel. (+48) 516 01 51 65, www.soczewka. wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Mon 11:00-21:30; Thu 11:00-22:30; Fri, Sat 10:30-23:00; Sun 10:30-21:30. €€.

T­6

ASIAN DIM SUM GARDEN The newest addition to the Ovo building, and a pretty great one. Dim Sum Garden is a cut above the rest, churning out splendid dumplings in addition to laksa (hard to find in Poland!), Peking duck, mango curry, General Tso’s chicken, XO beef, matcha lattes, and more. Feeling refined but not stiff, DSG also benefits from knowledgeable staff and a selection of unique cocktails (spicy mango, anyone?).

24zł lunch (soup+main) is served Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00.

Recommended.QH‑6, ul. Podwale 83, tel. (+48) 609 59 65 94. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. T­U­6­W OSIEM MISEK ‘Eight Bowls’, once one of the most successful food trucks in Wro, has acquired a stationary restaurant in which to serve more of its tasty concoctions: lots of ramen, pho, and curry, plus their signature pulled pork baos. Unfortunately, with popularity seems to have come a decline in quality and increased wait times, issues which we sincerely hope will iron themselves out soon.QD‑5, ul. Włodkowica 27, www.osiemmisek.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. T­6 WOOSABI With a roomy interior exuding cool - mood lighting, palm leaf wallpaper - and an Asian fusion menu of bao buns, noodles, and rice bowls, this is the new hipster dining spot in town. Try the signature Woosabi Bowl - a mixture of rice, salmon/shrimp/tofu, mango, avocado, fresh cucumber, marinated carrots, nori, and ‘woosabi mayo’ - or a bao set: two or three buns (choose from bulgogi beef, pulled pork, pineapple duck, marinated tofu, and more), plus fries or miso soup. For dessert, consider mango tapioka, mango sticky rice, or fried baos with ice cream.QD‑5, ul.

Włodkowica 21, tel. (+48) 71 341 99 83, www.woosabi. pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 12:0023:00. €€. T­6

INDIAN MASALA INDIAN RESTAURANT Well-positioned just off the market square, Masala does traditional Indian food in a more contemporary European style as Indian chefs work in plain view behind two long 58

Restaurants bars in the offbeat granite grey interior full of comical, conical hanging lamps, pop art elephants, and colourful seat cushions. The Express Lunch (served 12:00-15:30, Mon-Fri) fills the seats and represents not only a great bargain, but a great deal of delicious food. The regular menu hits all the marks and portions are larger than most places, earning our earnest recommendation. For those travelling with little ones, note that a babysitter is on hand 12:00-18:00 on weekends.QF‑5, ul. Kuźnicza 3/1 A, tel. (+48) 71 302 69 49, www.masala-grill.pl.

Open 12:00-23:00; Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00-22:00. €€.

T­U­6 THALI NA RUSKIEJ After a few years of relative success near Rondo Grunwaldzkie, this recognizable Indian eatery has opened a second place closer to the Old Town. Find an assortment of passable but not great dishes including chicken/paneer/mutton tikka masala, butter chicken, daal makhani, aloo gobi, achari mutton, biryani, and more in a colourful interior inherited from a vegan eatery (hence the Moroccan tiles). The mango lassi keeps us coming back.QD‑5, ul. Ruska 19, tel. (+48) 727 81 77 71, www. thali.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Mon, Sun 12:00-21:00. €€.

T­6­W

INTERNATIONAL 1450 SMOKEHOUSE & COCKTAIL Steak reigns king here, with cuts including sirloin, rib eye, T-bone, New York strip steak, and the monster tomahawk steak (one kilo of pure meat!); meat lovers can also choose from BBQ ribs, slow cooked pork belly, Viennese schnitzel, burger, and grilled regional trout.

As the name suggests, this smokehouse is of the more elegant variety, also serving elaborate cocktails and a selection of whiskey (including 21-year-old Chivas Regal). Vegetarians need not worry too much - there are salads and risotto to choose from. Pop in between 9:00 and noon for buffet breakfast.QF‑5, ul. Oławska 2, tel. (+48) 789 44 49 12, www.1450.com.pl. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:00-22:00. €€€. T­B­E­6 BARKA TUMSKA The city’s first riverboat restaurant, and once again Wrocław gets it right on the first try. Nestled between the proliferation of islands and bridges just near Ostrów Tumski, this fantastic river barge offers no less than five unique dining rooms over three levels, including the Captain’s mess and the outstanding upper deck with room for 70 people to take in the sights and sunshine. The menu is an inventive mix of local and Mediterranean-inspired seasonal cuisine, changing every 3 months or so. A smart place to bring a date or the whole family: kids get their own menu and play area and will love exploring the corridors of this unique river diner. QG‑3, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 77, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. Open 12:0021:00. €€. T­U 59

Restaurants BERNARD We’ll go along with the crowd and admit that this trendy brewery/restaurant is one of the most alluring locales on the market square. A stylish, airy, three-level interior with a long inviting bar, Bernard is characterised by closely arranged tables which don’t offer any privacy but contribute to the casual atmosphere where the menu is your placemat and it’s perfectly acceptable to just enjoy a drink without eating. To that end, they have their own beer in dark and light, as well as bottled choices including a decent amber and four alckyfree flavours which we wouldn’t know anything about; enjoy their draughts in glasses growing from 0.4 to 2 litres. The food is nothing to overlook with a menu ranging from nachos to Polish and Czech classics, and the upper-level tables in the window are a great place to take your date, but reserve ahead.QF‑5, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 54, www. bernard.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:30-23:30. €€€. T­U­E­6 BRASSERIE 27 Fancy and indeed flavoursome, this place is owned by the hotel Europeum but worthy of its separate entrance. A mega modern, glass fronted appearance is complemented by designer hanging lights and dark woods. The reassuringly short menu starts with Italian and spans steak and also fish dishes, staying mostly within the bounds of Mediterranean cuisine. Friendly service and an award winning chef make this one of the better places in the city to eat.QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27A (Europeum Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 371 44 71, www.brasserie27. com. Open 07:00-22:00; closed Sat, Sun. €€€. U CAMPO Great for an elegant night out, CAMPO is an Argentine steakhouse located in Wrocław’s fancy new Ovo building.

Apart from top-quality meat shipped in from the Ojo de Agua farm in Argentina and grilled to perfection in a Josper wood burning oven, CAMPO also offers a selection of delightful tapas (including calamari, lamb merguez sausages, and grilled eggplant rolls), Iberian ham, chorizo empanadas, skrei, and many other mouthwatering dishes.

Round your meal off with a nice bottle of Argentine Puro Torrontés, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, or Puro Corte.

Qul. Podwale 83, tel. (+48) 690 04 03 33, www. campomoderngrill.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. T­B­6 CZARY MARY Inside the new Ibis Styles hotel, the design of this charming restaurant is modern and somewhat minimal, enhanced by high contrast colours, floor to ceiling windows looking onto the train station across the street, and - most of all - delightful Alice in Wonderland murals by local artist Szur Szur. The service is classy and the menu is a concise list of beautifully presented entrees that combine unique flavours into creative creations. For such a seemingly casual, almost whimsical, environment, this is surprisingly upscale dining, and a great choice for planning meetings or a meal immediately upon arrival by train.QG‑8, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 20, www.czarymaryrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. T­U 60

Restaurants LA MADDALENA With a great location next to the Mleczarnia beer garden, and including seasonal outdoor seating overlooking the White Stork Synagogue, La Maddalena offers upscale dining in Wrocław’s formerly Jewish, currently hipster district. The creme-coloured, conservatively elegant interior includes homely touches and can accommodate large groups as well as couples looking for a more intimate date destination. An enticing menu of regional dishes and fusion cooking makes the art of deciding a challenge, and with the big emphasis on presentation you may be tempted to take out your camera when they arrive. Portions are small but delicious, and quite a few of the entrees are gluten-free.QF‑3, ul. Pomorska 1, tel. (+48) 71 782 60 90, www.lamaddalena.pl. Open 17:0022:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. U­B MARINA Seafood, pasta, and a concise menu of salads and meats on Wrocław’s mini-marina, with a lovely terrace offering views over the canal. If the weather is too chilly head inside to their upscale bar/lounge (or the new exclusive VIP room) for a cosy cocktail and let the sommelier recommend a bottle of wine (or two) to take away. For those wanting to splash out on a bit of a treat, a 6-course tasting menu is also available. Opening hours subject to change in the spring.QF‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 502 13 08 93, www.marina.wroc.pl. Open 14:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00. €€€. T­U­6

czarymary-restauracja.pl Pl. Konstytucji III Maja 3, Wrocław +48 71 73 34 820

MENNICZA FUSION It’s ‘dining with the stars’ at this restaurant headed by Top Chef Poland finalist Łukasz Budzik. Located in an epic 16thcentury granary and blending a pan-European taste with the highlights of Lower Silesian cuisine, Mennicza Fusion also has a dedicated sommelier on board to guide you through a selection of fine wines. Try à la carte, seasonallychanging delicacies like rabbit pâté with pumpernickel and pickles or wild boar with couscous and cabbage, or spoil yourself with their elegant tasting menu (150zł for 5 courses, 200zł for 7, 250zł for 9).QF‑6, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 02, www.thegranaryhotel.com/mennicza-fusionrestaurant-pl.html. Open 13:00-23:00. €€€€. T­U­6 OK WINE BAR Elegant, glitzy, and now located right on the waterfront, OK Wine Bar has used an address change to emphatically establish themselves as one of the city’s most refined destinations for business and romance. The decor is white, bright, and modern, with floor-to-ceiling windows letting in lots of natural light by day, and an intoxicating city shimmer after dark. The seasonal menu emphasises local products and includes hors d’oeuvres and a daily threecourse lunch from 12:00-16:00 for 54zł (or limit it to two courses for 46zł). Like the menu, the wine list is surprisingly short but resoundingly robust (with glasses beginning from 17zł), but OK also operates as a shop with over 400 world vintages you can take home.QE‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, tel. (+48) 71 714 21 26, www.okwinebar.com.

Open 13:00-23:00. €€€€. U­B­6

Mennicza Fusion Restaurant

www.thegranaryhotel.com + 48 71 395 26 00 61

Restaurants POD PAPUGAMI Long known as a default Wrocław drinker, it shouldn’t be forgotten that ‘the Pod’ – in the plummest of plum locations on the Rynek - serves up some rather good food too. Take advantage of the 29zł lunches, served Mon-Fri until 17:00 (46zł on weekends), or wait until evening when the terrific pork steaks will set you up very nicely for a night of cocktails and live music inside this classy tourist-friendly venue full of classic movie memorabilia.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 9A, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €€€.

T­U­E­6 PRZYSTAŃ (THE HARBOUR) Decked with tall blonde wood chairs and tables and decorated with old nautical illustrations and knot-tying charts, Przystań nonetheless remains thoroughly modern matching the design of the well-placed new building it occupies. Across the river from the main university building, the real reason to dock in this harbour is the deck seating over the water which offers great views and actually feels like you’re on a boat. The concise menu offers pastas, risotto, steak, saddle of lamb, gorgeous salads - including the very brave chicken liver salad with apple, avocado, orange, and parmesan - and, of course, wonderful seafood and fish.QF‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 502 13 08 93, www.przystan.wroc.pl. Open 09:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. €€€.

T­U QUESTA Located in Q Hotel, Questa goes beyond expected hotel fare, serving up the likes of rabbit rotondi with thyme sauce, watermelon radish, and pecorino Romano, or duck breast with sea-buckthorn, mirabelle plums, quinoa, celery, and black carrot from their seasonallychanging menu. Breakfast is served 6:30-10:30 Mon-Fri and 7:00-11:00 on the weekends; expect a buffet of cold cuts and cheeses, homemade pâté, salad, eggs, bacon, Vienna sausages, pastries, cereal, and other classic brekkie options.QD‑9, ul. Zaolziańska 2, tel. (+48) 71 749 17 00, www.qhotels.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€.

T­U­6 RESTAURACJA ACQUARIO The upscale restaurant on the rooftop terrace of the legendary Hotel Monopol, Acquario offers an enticing, eclectic lunch menu with a special flair for seafood (served from noon till 16:00) and innovative tasting menus with 4, 6, or 8 dishes to choose from (available from 18:00). If you’re anything like us, however, you’ll be just as interested in the world-class wine list. There’s really no better way to relax than with a bottle of red enjoying the fabulous views over Wrocław through rose-tinted glasses.QE‑6, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 91, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel. com.pl. Open 12:00-16:00 (lunch), 18:00-23:00 (tasting menu). 4 dishes for 160zł, 6 for 220zł, 8 for 280zł €€€€€.

U­B 62

Restaurants STARY KLASZTOR (THE OLD MONASTERY) Though rebuilt after the war, this former Dominican convent dates back to the early 14th century and was previously the site of a very upscale restaurant - a fact which hints at the ‘wow’ factor of its interior. Full of gorgeous architectural details and high arching ceilings, it’s a bit like dining in a cathedral, but don’t be mistaken - you won’t be cloistered off from society here. Aimed at Wrocław’s student population, there’s an eclectic concert schedule with live music three nights a week on average in the gothic cellars (check their FB page for details), and a large year-round beer garden. On top of that, the full menu of European eats is quite good and the beer selection is great. If you’re really pinching pennies, the attached Bistro Nowy Targ is super cheap.

Worth investigating for eats, drinks, and hijinks.QG‑5, ul.

Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519 89 47 69, www.staryklasztor. com.pl. Open 13:00-01:00. €€. B­E­6 STATEK WRATISLAVIA RESTAURACJA Z NURTEM Dinner and a cruise? You bet. When it’s not docked at its harbour on the Oder, Wratislavia glides along the river, offering splendid views of the city and an a la carte menu of traditional fare with modern elements courtesy of chef Piotr Gietner. In the warm season there are three 90-minutes cruises per day, at 12:00, 14:00, and 16:00 (hours subject to change in October); at 18:00 the vessel docks for the night and diners can show up without being afraid they’ll miss the departure. Now this is what we call eating on the water.QG‑4, Wratislavia Harbour, Bulwar Xawerego Dunikowskiego (near the Hala Targowa), tel. (+48) 570 90 29 03, www.statekrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€. P­T­W SUKIENNICE 7 Certainly one of the most elegant, upscale dining establishments to open in Wrocław in some time, Sukiennice 7 offers an outstanding menu of modern Polish and Mediterranean culinary creations served on slabs of slate or thinly-sliced tree trunks. A certain theatricality exists here as the chefs in their funny hats put on a show in the open kitchen (surrounded by a long bar), and the waitresses scurry about wearing in something akin to folk costumes, while a pianist plays in the evening - during which time you can expect this place to be packed despite the ample size of the modern interior. A great place for large group reservations, keep costs down Mon-Fri 12:00 16:00 with their lunch specials.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 7, tel. (+48) 71 342 74 56, www.sukiennice7.pl. Open 12:0023:30. €€€. T­U­B­6 VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT How about dinner and a concert? Head to the best jazz venue in the region for a sophisticated evening of rhythmic music, killer cocktails (none of which are called ‘Hot Sax’), and a range of modern fusion-influenced European dishes. Daily concerts begin at 20:00, during which time reservations are recommended.QF‑6, ul. Oławska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open 18:0024:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00. €€. U­E 63

Restaurants WYDZIAŁ KULINARNY NEW / CULINARY FACULTY Located in a 19th-century townhouse on University Square (Pl. Uniwersytecki), this Culinary Faculty is not so much about lectures as about sharing the magic of food and helping their ‘students’ discover new dishes and culinary techniques. Offering top-quality ingredients and wine pairing (with a certified sommelier on board), the Faculty’s menu includes home-made challah bread with chantarelle mushrooms; squid steak; swordfish with avocado, buckwheat popcorn, and gingerbread; roe deer loin with chocolate sauce, blackberries, and cauliflower puree; and other delightful creations, plus an extensive wine list.QF‑4, Pl. Uniwersytecki 7, tel. (+48) 660 74 87 37, www.wydzialkulinarny.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. T­6 ZENKA CAFE Simple, bright, and modern, Zenka is the younger sister of Central Cafe who has wandered a bit farther from the city centre (across the river, in fact). Their newest obsession is pastrami, which they serve in deliciously loaded sandwiches including the pastrami bagel, though you can also get it in an omelette, salad, or pasta dish. Other eats include sunny-side up eggs with halloumi, pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, colourful oatmeal, soups, salads, and of curse plenty of great coffee, smoothies, freshlymade cakes, and alcoholic drinks. In warm weather you can sit out on the terrace gazing at the Oder. QE‑3, ul.

Dubois 41, tel. (+48) 71 712 71 69, www.zenkacafe.pl.

Open 07:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-19:00. €€.

T­U­B­6

ITALIAN CAPRI RISTORANTE PIZZERIA Found inside the Galeria Italiana complex the style here is clear and simple, with visual distractions essentially limited to the streetside views and the theatrics of other diners.

Choose from an ambitious range of Italian dishes, with the real emphasis placed on spaghetti, while the proprietors’ Italian origins are unmistakable in their influence on the end product. Prices remain pegged at sensible levels, providing prospective diners with all the more reason to visit.QF‑4, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71, www.capripizza.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€.

T­B­6 CORSO Though perhaps better known as a wine bar and wine shop, boasting some 40 varieties of Dionysus’ elixir, Corso also does good pizza, pasta, fish, and seafood dishes with a heavy emphasis on ingredients sourced from Italy. Highlights include linguine with lobster, Argentine prawns with brandy, and the calamari; pair your dish with a glass of fine vino recommended by the knowledgeable wait staff.QF‑5, ul. Szewska 19-21/1A, tel. 71 337 57 89. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€. T­U­6 64

Restaurants IGGY PIZZA The pizza + spritzers trend seems to be catching on, and Iggy’s rendition complete with a wood-burning oven, pinteresty interior, and neon-light nuggets of internet wisdom (‘save water drink prosecco’; ‘real queens eat pizza’) is irresistibly hip - but the chronic understaffing sours the experience. Brace for an extended wait, which will be rewarded by a hot, doughy (maybe a bit too doughy) pizza napoletana with toppings like prosciutto cotto, artichokes, ‘nduja sausage, tiger prawns, grapes, and more. Pair your pie with a Martini Royale, Aperol Spritz, Cynar Spritz, or Virgin Hugo, and round the meal out with cafe affogato or a nutella ring with ricotta cheese. QF‑5, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. (+48) 506 60 68 18, www.iggypizza. pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00. €€. T­U­6 LA SCALA Tried and true La Scala enjoys a big reputation amongst locals, despite revved-up Rynek prices and uneven service from the bow-tied staff. That’s down to the food no doubt, with arguably the best Italian in town in the exclusive upstairs eatery, while the ground floor trattoria offers guests a cheaper, more concise incarnation of the menu amongst red-chequered tablecloths, pictures of rural Italy and strings of garlic.QF‑5, Rynek 38, tel. (+48) 71 372 53 94, www.lascala.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €€€. T­6 NIEZŁY DYM We’ll cut right to it - the pizza napoletana served here is amazing. Expertly prepared dough, splendid tomato sauce, and tasty topping combinations - like blue cheese and red onion, pear and gorgonzola, chorizo and honey - have elevated this spot above Wro’s other pizzerias, making this our go-to place for delicious carbs. Italian wine and local beer is now served, making the experience just that much better.

Heartily recommended.QF‑6, Plac Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 530 53 31 29. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €. T­U

JAPANESE DAREA SUSHI KOREAN - JAPANESE RESTAURANT A huge open plan space that does little in the way of décor, but plenty for the reputation of Korean food. Overseen by a Korean chap who settled in Poland over a decade ago Darea offers a cracking menu of both Japanese and Korean dishes including tangsuyuk (sweet and sour pork baked in pastry), kimchi soup, bulgogi, and five grill options where the cooking is left to the patrons. Highly recommended and a confirmed favourite of Wrocław’s expats. Take-away on offer at a 15 percent discount.QF‑4, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45, tel. (+48) 71 343 53 01, www.darea.pl. Open 12:00-22:30. €€€.

SEOUL KOREAN GRILL RESTAURANT Previously known as Ohh!! Sushi & Grill, this Asian chain rebranded to focus more on increasingly-trendy (in PL) Korean BBQ, and continues to surprise shoppers by providing exceptionally authentic, fresh food in one of the last places you would expect it: a shopping mall. Incredibly 65

Restaurants

korean - japanese restaurant

Wrocław, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45 reservation tel. (071) 343 53 01 restauracja@darea.pl www.darea.pl

THE BEST SUSHI IN THE CITY

popular as a take-away spot, that less energy has been put into the design of the interior than the quality of the food should hardly concern anyone’s stomach. With the endorsement of plenty of Asian clients at the tables each time we drop by, Seoul Korean Grill is also a great value for money. A second location can be found in Magnolia Park (ul. Legnicka 58) under the original name.QG‑6, Pl. Dominikański 3 (Galeria Dominikańska, level 0), tel. (+48) 71 330 65 40. Open 09:30-22:00; Sun 09:30-20:00. €€€. T­U­W SZAJNOCHY 11 Sushi chefs work in plain view behind the canal bar, foregoing formal pretences with chatty camaraderie, as prepared sushi rolls float by ready to be plucked onto the plates of patrons. That’s not to say these gents don’t know what they’re doing - our nigiri and futomaki rolls were as good (and as fresh) as any we’ve had anywhere, and it’s certainly refreshing to see a bit of lightheartedness applied to something as achingly serious as sushi has been ever since it left Japan. Decor is minimal but on the mark with dark walls, wood furnishings, and scattered plants, and like many other local places, it pays to appear during lunch (served 12:00-16:00 Mon-Fri) for bargain priced sushi sets, which - as you might expect - can get quite expensive otherwise. Overall: simple, authentic and, most of all, friendly.QE‑6, ul. Szajnochy 11, tel. (+48) 662 15 13 93, www.szajnochy11.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. T 66

JEWISH SARAH Located near the White Stork Synagogue and Jewish Community Centre, Sarah can make its claim as Wrocław’s most Jewish restaurant, for whatever that’s worth. The budget menu - unfortunately not kosher - features seasonally-changing, traditional Jewish dishes, and though reports of their quality and of the service are a little uneven, this is still a great place to spend time in our opinion. With plenty of atmosphere thanks to earthy colours, menorah candlelight, and loads of antiques, Sarah is reminiscent of the cafes found in Kraków’s old Jewish district and teams with Mleczarnia to create one of the best seasonal beer gardens in the city.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 609 99 01 97, www.sarah.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€. U­6­W

MEXICAN PANCZO Mexican and Tex-Mex in Poland can be terrible microwave-thawed sludge guacamole and flavourless gringo quesadillas are the norm most places you go.

Luckily, now and then you’ll find an establishment more interested in flavour and quality (and, dare we say, creativity) than in drawing a crowd familiar exclusively with movie-theatre nachos. This is one of those places.

Endearingly unorthodox, their ‘big-ass burritos’ (more Tex than Mex, obviously) feature ingredients like pulled pork, pomegranate, mango marinated in passion fruit, and

Restaurants cauliflower in coriander mayo. The end result blew our socks off, and there’s more to try on the menu: pulledchicken quesadillas, decked-out baked potatoes, tacos, and a selection of colourful margaritas, cheladas, sangrias, and shots. Provecho! To try the Panczo take on breakfast, it’s off to their second place on ul. Wita Stwosza 13 (F/G-5).QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 35/1A, tel. (+48) 884 00 97 37. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €. U­6

MIDDLE EASTERN JAFFA A slice of Tel Aviv in Wrocław - hip, buzzing, and pretty loud.

While open from noon, this street-food style eatery really heats up in the evenings, with revellers sashaying through to refuel with Israeli mezze, hummus, roasted cauliflower, pitas (including the classic sabih), shawarma, and fattoush salad. With a relatively well-stocked bar (alas, no craft beer) and clubby vibe (both in terms of music and decor), Jaffa is a welcome addition to the local nightlife scene.QE‑5, Plac Solny 14, tel. (+48) 578 00 04 96. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. T

100 metres from the Old Town, the Mercure Hotel and the DoubleTree by Hilton

PASTA BARS UMAMI DUMPLING & PASTA BAR Not the Japanese establishment you’d expect from the name: instead, Umami explores the ‘fifth taste’ (which, if you need a reminder, is ‘savoury,’ ‘meaty,’ or ‘brothy,’ and was first proposed by chemist Kikunae Ikeda in 1908) in a variety of world cuisines. The owners’ other culinary love is humble flour, and as such the menu focuses largely on dumplings and noodles, such as ravioli, pierogi, wontons, ramen, pad thai, tagliatelle, and more. Bright, airy, and located right on the main square, Umami also appears to be exceptionally child-friendly, judging from the number of cherub-cheeked customers babbling away in high chairs (and yes, there is a kids’ menu!). If you’re thirsty for more, Umami also has an intriguing selection of cocktails, including ‘smoked sesame,’ ‘spiced pineapple,’ and ‘roasted tea.’QE/F‑5, Rynek 60, tel. (+48) 602 66 00 38, www.umami.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:3022:00; Fri, Sat 10:30-23:00; Sun 10:30-22:00. €€. T­U­6

POLISH CHATKA PRZY JATKACH This small, popular Polish eatery, across from the ul. Jatka gallery stalls, achieves the trick of appearing like a rustic village cottage if you don’t notice the ceiling ductwork. Enhancing the illusion is the genuine Bolesławiec folkware on the tables (begging to leap into someone’s handbag), stout wooden tables, timber fittings and a thatched awning over the bar.

The menu - conveniently available in Polish, English, and German - features all the Polish classics, but take note that almost everything on it is fried. Despite the average food, it can be hard to score a table in this veteran chow house, which makes a fine place for a fast, local lunch, or late evening meal if you were busy drinking when the dinner bell rang. And they conveniently accept Euros.QF‑5, ul. Odrzańska 7, tel. (+48) 530 23 08 11. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. T­B

OHH!! SUSHI & GRILL Seoul Korean Grill Restaurant C.H. Galeria Dominikańska Pl. Dominikański 3, Wroclaw Tel. 71 330 65 40 Restaurant OHH!! SUSHI & GRILL C.H. Magnolia Park Ul. Legnicka 58, Wroclaw Tel. 71 350 03 68

www.ohhsushiwroclaw.pl ohhsushiandgrill 67

Restaurants DWÓR POLSKI One of the most regal-looking restaurants on the Rynek, Dwór Polski is chock full of stuffed falcons, Hussar wings, and enough medieval armour and weaponry to start a museum. Those looking for a royal feast however, may be disappointed. Despite the upmarket prices and palatial interiors, the food - mostly game dishes like pheasant, boar, and venison carved up with pewter cutlery - doesn’t always live up to expectations. Gamey indeed, and if you’re a vegetarian, get away quickly.QE‑5, Rynek 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 48 96, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Open 11:0023:00. €€€. T­B­6 JADKA Faultless modern and traditional Polish cuisine inside a refurbished Prussian-era butchery featuring vaulted brick ceilings and timber. The length of the seasonal menu won’t bowl you over, but the class and quality will: choose from the likes of smoked eel with black caviar and elderberries; mutton dumplings with wild garlic; or beef tongue with hibiscus, beets, and chard. Expect an expansive wine list, professional service, and a commitment to excellence. One of the few world-class dining options in the city, with some guests drawn specifically by the name of chef Justyna Słupska Kartaczowska.QE‑5, ul. Rzeźnicza 24/25, tel. (+48) 71 343 64 61, www.jadka.pl. Open 17:00-23:00; Sun 17:00-22:00. €€€. 6 KARCZMA LWOWSKA Translating to ‘Lviv Tavern’ and dedicated not only to that formerly Polish city now lost in the wilds of the Ukraine, but also to that thought-to-be lost Polish ideal of a simple country lifestyle, this nostalgic restaurant’s immaculately decorated interior is decked out in rustic, rural artefacts, antiques, old photos and seems to have a stuffed pheasant on almost every table. Designed for day-long feasting, the menu of traditional Galician specialties looks like an outstanding bargain before you notice that all side dishes are charged separately, however the result is still a decent value and evidence that not everything on the market square is a tourist trap.QE‑5, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 343 98 87, www.lwowska.com.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €€€.

T­E­6­W KONSPIRA Recreating the 1980s with Soviet newspapers, political cartoons, posters, and other era imagery while Polish ‘hits’ play from the speakers, Konspira calls itself a ‘Centre for Historical Education’ illuminating Wrocław’s role in the Solidarity movement. With some English-language info it could do a better job at that, but as a restaurant it does a fine job of dishing out enormous portions of tasty local grub. The killer location includes a huge garden full

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 68

Restaurants of gorgeous trees(!) and a historical exhibit (Polish only unfortunately). Make sure you don’t miss the ‘hidden room’ - walk through a wardrobe to discover a clever recreation of what a Polish apartment might have looked like in the mid-80s. Completely unique and worth checking out.

QE‑5, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00, www. restauracjakonspira.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00. Kitchen is closing one hour before closed. €€.

T­B­6­W POD FREDRĄ A perfect introduction to traditional Polish cuisine, from a perfect location inside Wrocław’s medieval Town Hall, Pod Fredrą ably covers the spectrum of Polish classics.

The music, walls, and meaty menu combine to create the appearance of an old Polish village and the staff will dutifully serve you in at least three languages (Polish, German, or English). The extensive country fare is complemented by a large and international wine list, and you need not worry about your eyes being too big for your stomach as they’re quite happy to doggy-bag whatever you’re unable to put away of the large portions.

QF‑5, Rynek - Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341 13 35, www. podfredra.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €€€. U­6 RESTAURACJA MONOPOL Known under communism as the most exclusive restaurant in Wrocław, queues would stretch outside the revolving doors as the staff shooed away anyone not wearing a tie, and menus and tableware frequently disappeared into the pockets of souvenir hoarders banking on the Monopol’s rep as a culinary masterpiece.

With the historic building renovated and under the savvy stewardship of Likus, today that excellence is back in place with master chefs preparing a wide range of traditional Polish dishes, and an inspired breakfast smorgasbord (and à la carte breakfast menu) starting each day. A modern classic, just leave the cutlery when you go.QE‑6, ul.

Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80. Open 06:30-10:00 (breakfast), 12:00-23:00 (lunch and dinner); Sat, Sun 07:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00. €€€€.

U

Karczma Lwowska

Wrocław, Rynek 4 Rezerwacje / Reservations +48 / 71 34 39 887 karczma@lwowska.com.pl www.lwowska.com.pl

SETKA For those who miss the communist system, and those who simply missed it altogether, this ‘Polish Folk Bar’ recreates the Soviet-era diner experience in the mould of the currently trendy 24hr Polish snack and shot bar.

The loud, time-warp interior is plastered floor to ceiling with fine historical images of PRL life, while the menu is a bit more than the typical romp through cold dishes that complement vodka - the ribs are arguably the best in town, and we also recommend the potato pancakes with goulash. The prices here are precious more than pocket change, and Setka is certainly more popular than we ever remember any other aspect of the communist system being in this country.QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50A, tel. (+48) 733 40 74 07, www.setkabar.com. Open 10:0004:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-06:00. €. W 69

Restaurants BREAKFAST

CENTRAL CAFE This American-style cafe is open early for breakfast, offering pastries, quiche, oatmeal, pastrami, and over a dozen bagel sandwich possibilities; big appetites can also order eggs their way and even pancakes (with maple syrup, fruit, powdered sugar, however you want).QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 794 96 23, www.centralcafe.pl. Breakfast served 07:0014:30; Sat, Sun 09:00-14:30. €€. T­U­B­6 DINETTE Wrocław’s most epic breakfast has made it out of the Sky Tower shopping centre and into a far more convenient location in the Old Town. As such, the most difficult part of your morning might just be deciding which delicious option to choose from the extensive menu (we swear by the shakshouka with excellent freshly-baked bread). Our one complaint is that breakfast is only served till noon. QF‑6, Pl. Teatralny 8, tel. (+48) 502 57 51 45, www.dinette.pl. Open 08:0022:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-20:00. €.

GISELLE FRENCH BAKERY CAFE All day breakfast - choose from a range of tasty egg concoctions (like fried eggs on toast with avocado, tomatoes, olives, and almonds, or scrambled eggs with brioche), quiches, pastries, and French specialties like Croque Madame, Croque Monsieur, and their own excellent Croque Giselle. The delicious coffee comes in huge mugs and all the bread is baked fresh on site daily.

Good place for lunch as well.QF‑5, ul. Szewska 27, tel. (+48) 71 725 55 62, www.bistrogiselle.pl. Open 07:30-19:00; Sun 09:00-19:00. €. T­6 PANCZO WITA STWOSZA After becoming a favourite for quick Tex-Mex eats Panczo decided to expand their concept to breakfast.

The high quality of ingredients and craftsmanship is the same, as is the delightfully tacky design aesthetic, but one thing has changed for the worse: portion sizes. The breakfast burrito will still fill you up, but the huevos rancheros (or, shall we say, the singular huevo ranchero) simply didn’t do it for us. After 12:00 Mon-Fri and 13:00 Sat-Sun the menu changes to their more classic selection of burritos, tacos, and quesadillas. QF/G‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 13, tel. (+48) 576 47 86 74. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 9:00-24:00. €. 6 70

PORTUGUESE PINTO PERI-PERI & GRILL Finally, some authentic Portuguese flavours! As per the name, this low-key establishment embellished with exposed brick and azulejo tiles focuses on peri-peri chicken, a Portuguese BBQ specialty in spicy sauce made from the peri-peri pepper. Also on the menu: caldo verde soup, bacalhau a braz (salt cod with potatoes and eggs), bitoque (steak), and delicious Portuguese wines. During the warm season you can sit outside and watch Wrocław life go by while dreaming of Lisbon.QF‑4, ul. Uniwersytecka 11/12, tel. (+48) 696 12 77 66. Open 15:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00; closed Mon. €€. T­U­6­W TASZKA WINE & PETISCOS Finally proving that the Main Square isn’t reserved only for immortal, pompous establishments and overpriced tourist traps, Taszka is a labour of love by a Polish-Portuguese duo, serving Portuguese-inspired petiscos (tapas) and a few main courses like duck breast and sea trout with presunto ham alongside an impressive selection of wines straight from sunny Portugal. Fresh and unique, Taszka’s imaginative dishes and laid-back atmosphere are a winning combination for date night or a post-sightseeing splurge.

QF‑5, ul. Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 570 33 74 24, www. taszka.wine. Open 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. €€. T­6

UKRAINIAN HORTYCA With the historical and cultural connection that post-war Wrocław shares with Ukraine, you would expect Ukrainian food to be more prevalent locally, but we’ll happily settle for Hortyca. With a radio playing from behind the bar and a simple menu of traditional dishes, this casual, cheap and tiny restaurant offers a surprisingly authentic experience of Ukrainian dining, enhanced by the folksy decor, flatware, and dress of the plump-faced waitress.

If you’re not well-versed in Ukrainian food, it’s basically what you might have surmised: a blend of Polish and Russian cuisine; as such, the short menu is populated with dumplings, blinis and borscht. Our plov - a rice dish with meat and ‘traditional seasonings’ - was delicious, and we capped it off by toasting PL’s eastern neighbours with a shot of Nemiroff.QF‑4, ul. Więzienna 18/1, tel. (+48) 71 318 75 66, www.hortyca.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. T

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN AHIMSA RESTAURANT & CLUB Okay, first things first: these people really do know their spices, and it’s hard to believe that someone can inject this much flavour into lowly tofu. You won’t leave hungry, either; the all-vegan menu offers huge portions of veggie sizzlers, masala dosa, stir-fry vegetables in peanut sauce, thali and sushi of the day, falafel, and veggie burgers. While

Restaurants the delicious smell might just be the deciding factor when choosing to dine here, the warm minimalist ambience entices you to sit a while longer.QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 23, tel. (+48) 71 344 55 22, www.ahimsa.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€.

T­6­W NAJADACZE.PL Wrocław now has enough alternative eating options most of them excellent - to send tourists on a veritable vegetarian food crawl. This small, likeable, and exclusively vegan eatery is certainly worth seeking out as well, offering a concise menu of Arabic and Indian cuisine that’s also conveniently available in English. The falafel burgers (17zł) are a big hit, while other highlights include the hummus, tofu cheesecake, kofta, and more. There’s a range of fair trade coffees, teas, and sodas, the food comes out of the kitchen fast, and costs almost nothing. Eat well and spend little - that’s what it’s all about no matter what your diet.

QF‑4, ul. Nożownicza 40, tel. (+48) 71 344 55 11, www. najadacze.pl. Open 11:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-20:00; Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 12:00-21:00. €. B­6 VEGA This veteran establishment earns honours for being the first in the country to commit to going all vegetarian when it opened way back in 1987. Now, following a needed renovation, Vega has upped its own ‘anti-’ by going 100% vegan. Set over two floors right on the market square, the modern makeover has done wonders for the interior and the food is good as ever, especially the amazing cakes, desserts, and vegan nice cream. Enjoy daily specials, meatless cutlets, and Eastern-inspired dishes, with plenty for diabetics, those going gluten-free, and even raw foodies. Full of flyers and activist info, this place is a veritable counter-culture centre, and probably the cheapest, most alternative place you can eat on the market square of any major city in Poland. Way to go, Wrocław. Note that opening hours for the second floor differ: 9:00-20:00 Mon-Fri, 12:00-20:00 Sat, 12:00-19:00 Sun. QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344 39 34. Open 08:00-20:00; Fri 08:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:0020:00. €. A­T­B­6­W WILK SYTY A very welcome addition to the vegan scene in Wrocław, the ‘Full Wolf’ is named after the popular Polish saying ‘both the wolf is full and the sheep is whole’, referring to a win-win situation. And indeed it is: with a short, monthly-changing menu of intricate (and filling) plant-based dishes, plus cool decor, this little spot is popular both with Wrocław’s ever-growing army of vegans and with carnivores looking to increase their veggie intake. To give you an idea of the the culinary delights that await, recent entrees included the seitan schnitzel, okonomiyaki pancakes with marinated shimeji mushrooms, spicy vegan mayo, and coconut ‘bacon’, and Sichuan kung pao tofu. As far as Wrocław’s vegan restaurants go, this is the winner. Recommended.

QG‑2, ul. Trzebnicka 3, tel. (+48) 690 02 90 05. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. €€. 6 71

Nightlife

Whiskey in the Jar (p.76)

Wrocław bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most will stay open until the last customer has crawled out. The lion’s share are concentrated around the market square, but for more alternative drinking destinations also check out the divey tippler’s strip below the ul.

Bogusławskiego train tressle (F-8), and destinations west of the market square, namely the hip cafe/bars of Pasaż Pokoyhof (D-5, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4) and ul. Włodkowica (D-5/6), and the hedonistic courtyards off ul. Ruska, including Pasaż Niepolda (D-5, ul. Ruska 51). Recently, ul.

Ofiar Oświęcimskich (E-5/F-6) has also emerged a one of the city’s most happening alternative streets. For clubbing, the main hedonist hangouts are ul. Św. Mikołaja (D-5) and the famous Pasaż Niepolda, where the parties last until morning even if you don’t. Expect cover charges of anywhere from 5-20zł at the door on weekends, and don’t expect to find toilet paper in any of the bathrooms after 22:00.Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so visit our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com (of which there’s also a mobile version) - to read reviews of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Na zdrowie, and happy hangover.

COCKTAILS Shake it up in local stalwarts Papa Bar (p.75) and Pod Papugami (p.75) or check out the imaginative creations served at KRVN (p.74) and 1450 Smokehouse & Cocktail (p.77). Domówka (p.77) and Grey (p.78) are currently the most exclusive catwalks for celebrity spotting and being seen.

72

CRAFT BEERS Discover the depths of Polish beer culture in 4Hops (p.73), AleBrowar (p.73), Kontynuacja (p.74), and Marynka (p.74), or check out one of the breweries (p.74) where they make their own.

STUDENTS As beer prices go up, cheap shot bars (p.76) are appearing all over, sustained by Wrocław’s student population. For spontaneous booty shaking it’s off to Mañana (p.78) or Szajba (p.76).

LADS Breweries (p.74) are a popular place to start the night with pints of beer and plates of bratwurst, after which the party tends to move to the brash Pasaż Niepolda.

COUPLES Show off by starting the night with a romantic dinner in OK Wine Bar (p.78), or a fancy drink in Papa Bar (p.75). Enjoy a classy jazz concert at Vertigo (p.78), continue the conversation by candlelight in Mleczarnia (p.74), or take a turn on the dance-floor in Mañana (p.78).

ALTERNATIVE Regular presentations on how to be a Polish hipster are given in Surowiec (p.78) and KRVN (p.74); Nietota (p.75) has a darker side, and Art Cafe Kalambur (p.77) is the heights of opiatic art nouveau decadence.

Nightlife SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted C‑1 Map Coordinate U Facilities for the disabled

6 Animal friendly

X Smoking room available

E Live music

o Year-Round Garden

W Wi-fi connection

BARS & PUBS 4HOPS Laid-back and trendy, 4Hops features sixteen taps with a constant rotation of craft beer, including many quality local options you’ll have trouble finding elsewhere, plus wraps, pizza, chili con carne, and other beer-friendly eats. The interior is a bit cafeteria-esque, what with the nondescript vintage wooden chairs and black-and-white floor tiles, but the wall paintings and bits of exposed brick come to the rescue.QF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 46, tel. (+48) 515 57 28 84. Open 12:00-23:45; Thu 12:00-24:45; Fri 12:0001:00; Sat 13:00-01:00; Sun 13:00-23:45. 6­W ALEBROWAR The flagship brew pub of one of PL’s best and first craft beer brands, AleBrowar combines Polish street graphics with American-style microbrewing. As this watering hole’s official motto states, “don’t say hop until you try.” Actually, scratch that - the cool decór and crowds of chipper, welldressed patrons draw you in as soon as you round the corner, and the great selection of craft beer makes you stay for another... and another.QD‑5, ul. Pawła Włodkowica 27, tel. (+48) 533 94 48 23, www.alebrowar.pl. Open 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00. 6 BLACKBOARD PUB Located in the trend-setting Ibis Styles Hotel across from Dworzec Główny, the location may not be ideal for a pub crawl, but if you’ve got some time to kill between connections, or if you’re craving a pint straight off the train, then this surprisingly hip hotel bar is definitely worth a visit.

It’s got a touch of industrial chic, black-and-white decor, neon and mood lighting, walls covered in blackboard paint and chalk renderings, live sports on the TV, and a laid-back ambience - what more do you need?QG‑8, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 21. Open 17:00-02:00. U HARD ROCK CAFE HRC doesn’t really need explaining. This legendary rock ‘n’ roll chain is opening its fourth restaurant in Poland, bringing the usual BBQ grub, alc, and music memorabilia to a prime location on the main square. Among the treasures spread out over two floors you’ll find Elton John’s shoes, Beyonce’s corset, Lady Gaga’s leather cape, guitars used by Santana and Alice Cooper, Elvis’s microphone, and John Lennon’s 1960’s TV set. The menu is the usual romp through burgers (including a very ‘Polish’ creation with white sausage and

ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Wrocław Phone: +48 71 733 48 21

HOT BEER? Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the outdoor stands selling cups of it during the holiday season. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie!

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Nightlife BREWERIES Wrocław has a long and illustrious history of brewing beer thanks to its past allegiances and current proximity to both Germany and Czech Republic. While craft beers are all the rage at the moment, the venues below are taking it to the next level by actually brewing their own.

BIERHALLE In a battle with Spiż for best local microbrewery, do your drinking under the parasols of their prime Rynek real estate during the sunny season, retreating into the restaurant during those six months of the year when willful impairment is forced indoors. Continuing Wrocław’s long brewing tradition, this outfit does it all on-site with wheat beer, pilsners, and lagers among those on draught. Prices are aimed at German tourists, and lager lovers that they are you’ll find plenty of them happy to pay for the privilege of a good ale. If it’s game day, you’ll find Bierhalle’s plethora of teles to be one of your best bets for catching the match.QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 24-27, tel. (+48) 601 67 74 52, www.bierhalle. pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:0002:00. U­B BROWAR ZŁOTY PIES A place where beer keeps no secrets from beer drinkers - the ‘live brewing’ going on in this establishment means that all stages of the process take place right in front of visitors’ eyes, and you might even be allowed to chuck in some malt or hops. Situated in a beautiful main square tenement house with a golden dog emblem (giving rise to the name), Złoty Pies offers three types of beer - lager, IPA, and wheat - in addition to three seasonal brews and a selection of modern Polish dishes which draw upon local products and change with the seasons.QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, tel. (+48) 570 22 12 12, www.zlotypies.com. Open 12:00-24:00; Thu, Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat 11:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. B­6 SPIŻ BREWERY After losing some ground in the Breslau best beer debate to Bierhalle, Spiż seems to have picked up the slack by unveiling a few new brews. With ten unpasteurised, unfiltered beers in total (including IPA, honey beer, Märzen, and cherry beer), you should find something to your taste, though beer enthusiasts are a bit split about the quality. Despite service that is largely lacking, a free table in the summer beer garden is still a rarity, while an Oktoberfest atmosphere prevails in the dark cellars of the Town Hall. Spiż is still considered a must-visit by locals and remains one of Wrocław’s most recognisable bars.QF‑5, Rynek-Ratusz 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 72 25, www.spiz.pl. Open 10:00-02:00; Mon 10:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-03:00; Sun 10:00-24:00.

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sauerkraut), steaks, ribs, fries, chicken, and alcoholic drinks.

QF‑5, Rynek 25, tel. (+48) 71 726 11 40, www.hardrock. com/cafes/wroclaw/pl/. Open 12:00-24:00. E­6 KONTYNUACJA Wrocław might be the best beer city in PL, and this is arguably its best craft beer house - though competition is fierce. With 25 beers from PL and abroad on draught (including two hand-pumps), the ales are inscrutable, and the atmosphere has picked up considerably despite a slow start. With modern, minimal decor, a lengthy bar, and long thin tables to encourage conversation, this is one of the most popular meet-up places for a pint or two and some good conversation.

QF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 17, tel. (+48) 792 40 00 84, www.kontynuacja.ontap.pl. Open 16:00-01:00; Fri 16:0002:00; Sat 14:00-02:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. B­6 KRVN Shorthand for ‘Karavan’ (obviously), this odd and amiable bar/bistro combines a smart post-modern aesthetic with a street art edge and deliberate traces of urban decay: think steel doors and subtle neon, plus strange Sharpie scribbles on unfinished walls. In the evenings it’s a total hipster hangout full of fanny packs, plug earrings, ironic moustaches, and fast electronic music. The drinks menu is unique, inventive, and nothing short of excellent, with a long list of original cocktails for the summer and hot concoctions for weathering the long Polish winter. By day natural light filters through the street-side windows and KRVN is more of a bistro with a great menu of soups, burgers, and Buddha bowls (served until 22:00, Fri-Sat 24:00). An ideal place to pretend you’re not a tourist, this is essentially the perfect Wrocław hangout.QD‑5, ul. Św.

Antoniego 40/1A, tel. (+48) 575 79 17 57, www.krvn.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. B­6 MARYNKA PIWO I APERITIVO Marynka essentially takes the idea and atmosphere of a wine and tapas bar and applies it to choice ales. Here you can select from a wide variety of beers from all over the world, including 16 regularly changing taps, while snacking on tasty appetisers, and they’ve now added delicious woodfired pizza to their bag of tricks thanks to a cooperation with Happy Little Food Truck parked out back. Hidden in an obscure courtyard behind Graciarnia near the Royal Palace, this is a refined place for beer lovers to relax without the snobbery you might associate with connoisseur culture.

Worth seeking out.QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39, tel. (+48) 575 75 15 50. Open 16:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 16:0002:00; Sun 16:00-23:00. B­6 MLECZARNIA We’ve been mainstays at this dusky, back-street, candlelit pub since our first days in town. Hidden in an enchanting courtyard with the White Stork Synagogue and a glorious oak tree, the summer beer garden is fantastic, while the sepia interior of wobbly furnishings and framed sketches captures an ethereal, nostalgic atmosphere better than anywhere else in Wroc’s former Jewish district. A bohemian mix of local

Nightlife academics, hipsters and hostelers drink through the debate topics of the day while an excellent mix of ethnic and indie music (always played at just the right level) drifts through the air. Honestly, Mleczarnia is the kind of place we could live in, and some regulars appear to actually do so. With a hostel upstairs, you can too.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 788 24 48, www.mle.pl. Open 08:00-04:00. B­6 NIETOTA One of Wrocław’s most original venues, Nietota is a place for artsy discourse, self-destructive decadence, and debauchery. An awful lot of time has gone into the decor with almost every surface covered in highly-illustrative original artwork that gives the space a grotesque, creepycool Nachtkabarett atmosphere where concerts and theatre troops take the stage between weekend DJ nights.

Completely unique in style and atmosphere, the drinks list is also exceptional with Lindeman’s cherry lambic to candy the lips of the ladies and delicious Litovel straight from Czechia. Well worth seeking out.QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50, tel. (+48) 733 23 39 92, www.nietota.pl.

Open 17:00-04:00; Sun 17:00-01:00. B­E PAPA BAR One of Wrocław’s most stylish and chic bars, how much you favour Papa Bar really depends how much you fancy yourself a fit with the jet set. Filled with foreign and local goodlookers drinking cocktails and single malt whiskeys around an endless rectangular bar, grand colonnades support the ceiling while red carpet shots of smiling Hollywood hunks and starlets dress the walls. Going beyond the expected house music, Papa Bar also provides many of the comforts other places lack - including competent mixologists, sports on the flatscreen, and a menu of great eats served late.

Recommended.QE‑5, ul. Rzeźnicza 32/33, tel. (+48) 71 341 04 85, www.papabar.pl. Open 12:00-01:00; Fri 12:0002:00; Sat 16:00-02:00; Sun 16:00-01:00. U PINTA One of the first players on Poland’s rapidly expanding craft beer scene, Wrocław brewery PINTA (Pint) decided to take the next step and open their first sit-down locale in the prestigious OVO building. In their vaguely industrial interior you’ll find a selection of 26 PINTA brews in an impressive range of styles, from a New England IPA to an imperial Baltic porter, plus a straightforward menu of seasonal dishes, sandwiches, and beer snacks.QH‑6, ul. Podwale 83, tel. (+48) 888 47 57 77. Open 12:00-02:00. U­B­E­6 POD PAPUGAMI Packed with wasp-waisted blondes, Pod Papugami still rates as one of the top venues in town for terrific food, smart drinks and live music. Squeeze among the local stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid film reels, projectors and vintage movie memorabilia. Champagne-voiced chanteuses take the stage most nights, and the performances are usually very good indeed.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 9A, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. U­E­6 75

Nightlife POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS

Photo by Karol Grzenia

A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country recently is the late-night snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), these trendy bars cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically served cold) and drinks.

MINISTERSTWO ŚLEDZIA I WÓDKI This popular chain of ‘snacks and shots’ bars goes for People’s Republic nostalgia, from newspaper-clipping propaganda wallpaper to old-fashioned drinking snacks like herring in oil, cream, or vinegar, beef tartare, and pork jelly. With shots costing between 5 and 8zł apiece and snacks at 8zł per serving, the formula here is simple and effective. Na zdrowie!QE‑5, ul. Rzeźnicza 34, tel. (+48) 530 08 66 72, www.msiw.eu. Open 14:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-06:00. B­6 NAGI KAMERDYNER An absolutely fantastic boozer that also operates as an esteemed photography gallery (galeriajadalnia.pl), ‘The Naked Butler’ captures the outlaw elegance of Prohibition-era America with music from the 1920s and ‘30s and interrogation lamps. With above-average hot and cold Polish dishes for 10zł, you never know when we might be stool pigeoning at the bar with our brim pulled low over a plate of bigos and a beer.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 695 63 09 63, www. nagikamerdyner.pl. Open 17:00-24:00; Thu 17:0002:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-06:00; closed Mon, Sun. U­B SETKA As unlikely as the combo may sound, Setka (the Polish name for a 100ml glass of hard alcohol) is where Las Vegas meets the former People’s Republic of Poland in a brash, loud, and fun drinking den. With a slot-machineesque menu board featuring the likes of herring, lard, and potato pancakes and a slightly irritated female voice reading the order numbers over the mic, this is a blast from the past dressed to please present-day bar-hoppers.QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50A, tel. (+48) 733 40 74 07, www.setkabar.com. Open 10:0004:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-06:00. B­W 76

SZAJBA Hidden one courtyard east of Mleczarnia, this large, versatile high-ceilinged club/gallery caters to Wrocław’s large demographic of hipsters who create happenings. Old 50s and 60s radios with glowing gummy bear lamps atop them line the walls above old framed advertisements and prints by local artists. The furnishings, as you can guess, are more of the same attic antiques you find in many such places, with candles and tulips on the tabletops and plenty of room for large groups. Seasonal outdoor seating, an eclectic alternative playlist, extensive exotic drink list and free wifi are just a few more of the reasons Szajba is a great place to pass time; the bar staff are obviously enjoying themselves, as our coffee came with a near-complete tictac-toe board drawn in the foam, waiting for us to place the winning stroke. A great find.QE‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4 (Pasaż Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 660 40 42 70, www.szajba. wroclaw.pl. Open 17:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-04:00. B SZKLARNIA Ofiar Oświęcimskich Street has exploded with hip new venues to become one of Wrocław’s most exciting streets and this may be its most popular hangout at the moment.

Bearing all the hallmarks of hipster paradise - pricey craft beers, cool cocktails, groovy music, DIY design, and good eats - they’ve basically taken all the best aspects of their neighbours and combined them here. Dubbed ‘Greenhouse’ (as Szklarnia translates in English) thanks to a glass ceiling, this large space features a long wrap-around bar, lots of natural light, plenty of plywood and pallets (naturally), and even a patio. A delight by day, things get crowded in the evening when it basically turns into a urban lifestyle blog.QF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 575 24 24 56. Open 15:00-01:00; Wed, Thu 15:0002:00; Fri 15:00-04:00; Sat 14:00-04:00; Sun 14:00-24:00.

B­E­6 WHISKEY IN THE JAR With a primo location opposite the Town Hall, and a multilevel industrial interior with leather booths, mounted guitars and motorcycle parts on the walls, Whiskey in Jar offers pricey (but yummy) burgers, steaks, ribs and the like.

The house specialty, however, is mixed drinks made with Jack Daniels and served in juice jars (hence the name).

Earnest live bands play Pearl Jam and Pink Floyd covers TueSat from 20:00, and though the loud rock concept seems like it would lead to this place being a constant bro-down, ladies apparently love it.QF‑5, Rynek 23/24, tel. (+48) 503 52 75 31, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 13:00-01:00; Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-23:30. U­B­E WYWROTOWA A second endeavour by the creators of Konspira - a restaurant and ‘centre for historical education’ illuminating Wrocław’s role in the Solidarity movement - Wywrotowa calls itself the ‘headquarters of the Wrocław dwarfs’ and focuses (much like its older sister) on 1980’s commie-era nostalgia, particularly on the Orange Alternative movement which first spawned the now-ubiquitous little miscreants.

Nightlife Yes, you’ll find strong alc here, but also a classic Polish menu of pierogi, tartare, sour rye soup served in bread bowls, pork chops, and more.QE‑5, Plac Solny 17, tel. (+48) 695 26 50 09. Open 11:00-23:00. €€. T­B­6­W

CLUBS With 135,000 students and a growing tourist industry egging it on, Wrocław’s clubbing scene continues to expand, though it has yet to reach the heights of pretension achieved in Warsaw. The main hedonist hangouts aside from the market square are Pasaż Niepolda (E-4) and ul.

Mikołajska (A-3) where the parties last until morning even if you don’t. Expect cover charges of anywhere from 5-20zł at the door on weekends, and don’t expect to find toilet paper in any of the bathrooms after 22:00.

ART CAFE KALAMBUR An artsy bohemian headquarters by day, this tiny Secessionist space becomes one of the sloppiest, most unhinged student clubs in Wrocław on weekends, with the party going on until dawn o’clock. As drunken revellers bump into the DJ booth, the masses writhe to skipping recordings of everything from classic MJ to the Doors to Goran Bregovic. So chock-a-block with shimmying students and hipsters that dancers obstruct the door, so start testing your moves on the approach ‘cause you’re going right into the frying pan, friend.QF‑4, ul. Kuźnicza 29A, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 68, www.kalambur.org. Open 12:00-02:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-04:00. X­U­B BEZSENNOŚĆ (INSOMNIA) Pasaż Niepolda’s longest tenured club and arguably still its best. Wrocław’s sophisticated singles gather amid a decadent background of comfy sofas, stark concrete walls and thrift-store furnishings that balance the romanticism of faded olde world grandeur and the sexiness of an underworld speakeasy. Weekends host legendary dance parties, while work days are more low-key with everything from cool 60s tracks to smoky jazz tunes on the speakers, as well as the common occurrence of some of the city’s top concerts in this venue that good bands seem to go out of their way to try and play in. A must visit.QD‑5, ul.

Ruska 51 (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. (+48) 570 66 95 70. Open 19:00-03:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00-05:00; closed Mon, Sun. X­U­E DOMÓWKA If you come on a popular night Domówka is not so much a club, but an experience. Once you’ve gotten past the facecontrol, entrance, security, and coat-check you’ll stroll into a packed ballroom-style scene all centred around a massive elevated dance-floor with a hypnotic vibe. The crowd is a bit older and decked-out to be sure, which means there’s eye-candy in every direction and very yuppie prices. The tile and brick wall styling is somehow cheesy and chic at the same time, and the coordinated light displays that continually scan the room will leave you mesmerised on a Friday or Saturday night. Bring your camera, your weekend 77

Nightlife WINE BARS 1450 SMOKEHOUSE & COCKTAIL Pair your steak with a glass of fine vintage from 1450’s nicely curated wine list (sold by the glass or bottle) or a playful cocktail such as ‘Trendy Brandy’ (pisco + apricot brandy + lime + rosemary + apricot & ginger jam) or ‘Pokłosie’ (15yo Chivas + syrup + orange bitters). Also good for wining without the dining, 1450’s elegant interior and convenient location just off the main square make this a nice splot to squirrel away in the evening.QF‑5, ul. Oławska 2, tel. (+48) 789 44 49 12, www.1450.com.pl. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:0001:00; Sun 09:00-22:00. T­B­E­6 CORSO With the opening of places like Wines & Olives and Corso, Wrocław is becoming a city not only for beer lovers, but also wine connoisseurs. This classy Italianowned wine bar is lined with burgundy bottles, but is very selective about its vintages, selecting only the very best of the best Italian wines (40 in total). Enjoy a refined atmosphere, fine Italian cheese and meat platters, and a veritable lesson on how to train your palette and appreciate the good things in life. QF‑5, ul. Szewska 19-21/1A, tel. (+48) 782 38 85 11. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00. U­6 OK WINE BAR Refined and glitzy, OK Wine Bar is more than OK - with a location right on the waterfront and floor-toceiling windows letting in shimmering light reflected off the Oder River, it’s probably the most romantic spot for wining and dining. Their robust wine list comprises over 400 vintages to be had by the bottle and a short but effective selection of vino to be had by the glass.

QE‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, tel. (+48) 71 714 21 26, www.okwinebar.com. Open 13:00-23:00. U­B­6

LIVE MUSIC VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT This esteemed music entertainment outfit boasts its own record label, and finally its own venue for hosting almost nightly jazz concerts. Modern in its slick design and acoustic precision, but classic in its intimate atmosphere and Cotton Club appeal, Vertigo is the best jazz club in the region and a nirvana not only for earnest jazz enthusiasts, but also the players, who are complimented with a high-profile ‘Artists’ Lounge’ at stage left. The cocktail prowess of the bar staff is almost over-the-top, and there’s a nice menu of creative European eats to accompany the live music.

Tickets usually cost 20-30zł, but also keep an eye out for occasional free concerts.QF‑6, ul. Oławska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open 18:0024:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Mon. U­B­E 78

wallet, and dancing shoes, and Domówka will deliver you to dance-party paradise.QF‑5, Rynek 39, tel. (+48) 792 39 22 29, www.klubdomowka.pl. Open 21:00-05:30; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. X GREY MUSIC CLUB Wrocław’s most exclusive nightclub, and well worth the payout and pretension required to get inside, as no expense has been spared here in terms of lighting, sound, and design. 50 Shades jokes aside, Grey’s modern minimal space features a fantastic glass atrium space at its centre, perfect for mingling with the cocktail devouring eye candy all around you, while some of the best DJs from PL and abroad annihilate the mature crowd’s ability to do anything other than move on the large dance floor. If you’re not convinced that Poles are the most beautiful people in the world, this place will change your mind - if you don’t lose it in an explosion of epileptic ecstasy.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8, tel. (+48) 887 55 55 22, www.greymusicclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 21:00 - 05:00. X­E MAÑANA CAFE Reckoned by many to be the best night out in Wrocław, Mañana is certainly reliable for a raucous weeknight raveup and well-loved by all those who live for long nights.

Don’t let the lack of a proper dancefloor prevent you from doing your Travolta - spontaneous outbreaks of disco fever are rife and encouraged. The scruffy furnishings, red lighting and cheeky photos on the wall exemplify the balance between sexiness and silliness embodied by the randy retro-chic clientele, and Mañana’s down-to-earth attitude and funky playlist of favourites from the last 50 years make it one of the most appealing places in the city to squander your brain cells. With the addition of a VIP room and the opening of the large summer terrace there’s now even more space to investigate the lineup of Wrocław’s lookers.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 343 43 70 ​, www.mananacafe.pl. Open 17:00-04:00; Thu 17:0005:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-07:00; Sun 18:00-03:00. B SUROWIEC Taking advantage of a superb space created by the Neon Side Foundation - a courtyard filled with salvaged Soviet era neons and street art - Surowiec is a hipster haven with a passion for music, art, good booze, and leafy plants. Chilled out during the day (deck chairs make an appearance during the warm season) and bursting with energy after dark, this irresistibly hip locale hosts frequent silent discos, art exhibitions, and cultural events ranging from literary discussions to poetry slams to vintage markets.

Recommended.QD‑5, ul. Ruska 46A, tel. (+48) 501 62 46 60. Open 15:00-07:00; Tue 15:00-01:00; Wed 15:0005:00; Thu 15:00-02:00; closed Mon, Sun. U­B­6

Where’s the party? /WroclawInYourPocket

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Shopping

Right on the Rynek, head to Wrocław Souvenirs (p.83) for souvenirs that say you were in Wrocław.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely have gone into effect. From Jan 2019, trade will only be allowed on the last Sunday of each month (except in the December shopping season).There are only a few exemptions from the rule, including pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, open-air markets, and souvenir shops (oh thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. The following is a list of Sundays when shops are allowed to be open: Sept 29 | Oct 27 | Nov 24 | Dec 15, 22, 29

Retail opportunities have come a long way since the days of queuing around the corner for the off-chance of buying a crust of bread. Today Wrocław’s shop-fronts are stocked with everything you’d expect to find in a cosmopolitan metropolis, with bountiful pedestrian shopping opportunities around the market square, ulica Świdnicka and ulica Oławska. Odrzańska, Kiełbaśnicza and Mikołaja streets are home to upmarket boutiques and galleries, while the popular Jatki (A-2) is known for its row of artisan galleries and souvenir stalls. For familiar international labels and big brands, look no further than one of Wrocław’s glistening new shopping malls - there are no less than five comfortably within the city centre. Lastly, don’t miss visiting Hala Targowa (C-2) for a truly Polish cultural experience while catching a bargain. As this is PL, remember most shops close early on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether. For more local gift ideas and direct buying opportunities head online to the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop.

ALCOHOL & TOBACCO CORSO This Italian wine bar and shop is doing its part to try and switch Poles on to good wine - choose from 40 highquality vintages from Europe’s boot, plus other imported Italian specialties. Of course you can also stay for a glass and even pair it with some good seafood (yep, Corso is a proper Italian restaurant as well).QF‑5, ul. Szewska 19-21/1a, tel. (+48) 71 337 57 89, www.corso-wine.pl. Open 12:0023:00; Sat 12:00-24:00.

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Shopping AMBER & JEWELLERY Herbal vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland.

Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.

GALERIA SCHUBERT Located in the Town Hall, World of Amber has an impressive and reasonably priced array of amber-themed jewellery and pieces. For those less keen on amber, they also offer other precious stones and metals and took a page out of the Bohemian book with a small section of crystal-ware. If amber is on your Wrocław to-do list, Schubert will do nicely without killing your travel budget or drawing you away from the heart of the city.QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 20/22, tel. (+48) 71 343 95 51, www.jubilerschubert.pl. Open 09:00-19:00.

LILOU Pendants, charms, and delicate chains abound in this boutique-y jewellery shop staffed by immaculatelyattired ladies keen to assist and advise potential buyers.

Glamorous but not intimidating, this is the place to browse miniature shiny trinkets during an afternoon shopping break.QA‑3, ul. Świdnicka 3-5, tel. (+48) 71 343 22 97, www.lilou.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00.

ART & ANTIQUES Antiques are a popular commodity in Poland and you’ll find no shortage of antiquated oddities in Wrocław. As you walk about town keep your eyes peeled for signage with the inscriptions ‘Antyki,’ ‘Antykwariat’ and ‘Starocie’ (junk); ul. Kiełbaśnicza (E-5) is a good place to start.

Knowledgeable dealers offer prices comparable with the rest of Europe, but there are still plenty of bargains and undervalued treasures to be found. Bear in mind that if you intend to take art that is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value out of the country, you’ll have to get some papers in order first. Most proper dealers can provide this straight-away, but you may want to check before opening your wallet. For artisan galleries in Wrocław, head straight to ul. Jatki (E-5). In addition to being Wrocław’s oldest, most narrow, and most charming street, this row of former medieval butcher stalls is today home to numerous artist studios and galleries.

KARTELL FLAGSTORE Combining creativity and functionality since 1949, this Milanese design company known for colourful plastic creations has spawned flagstores all over Europe, including our charming little city.QE‑7, Pl. Kościuszki 3, tel. (+48) 606 79 54 19, www.kartellshop.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.

Gifts & Souvenirs Geschenke Regalos Подарки

RYNEK 3 MAIN SQUARE WROCŁAW 81

Shopping POLISH POSTER GALLERY Poland has a proud tradition of graphic art design for film and theatre, which has basically developed into its own genre. This fantastic gallery is the place to check it out by browsing through binders full of hundreds of designs, many of them in stock and others available to order. Find alternative film posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks, plus amazing propaganda and theatre posters. A great place for souvenirs and gifts, if you aren’t into travelling with a poster tube, check out the amazing postcard collection. Anyone who appreciates graphic art will be glad to discover this place; recommended.QD‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11, www. polishposter.com. Open 12:00-18:00; Sat 12:00-16:00; closed Mon, Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM DE’ MOLIKA The closest thing in Wrocław to the indie record store you’ve always wanted to open. Run by two devoted owners, this tiny shop has all the new and vintage vinyl you won’t find in the ‘megastores,’ plus tonnes of CDs.QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 65, tel. (+48) 71 346 89 26, www.demolika.pl.

Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. DUŻA CZARNA With a name that evokes an americano coffee in Polish and might remind some audiophiles of a certain eighties punk rock band in genderless English, this small shop located above a bookstore sells big black records with music ranging from Whitney Houston pop to Pink Floyd psychedelic rock to Barry White funk. Don’t bother looking for a shop sign; keep an eye peeled for the Dedalus. pl bookstore instead. Over 10,000 records to choose from!QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 28, tel. (+48) 511 51 95 11, www.duzaczarna.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:0017:00; closed Sun. TAJNE KOMPLETY Wrocław’s finest bookstore, located right in the Town Hall.

With a bit of an alternative bent, and a surprisingly good English language selection, Tajne Komplety is the kind of place you could spend the entire day nosing through comics, art books, and even vinyl records. It twins as a cafe, so don’t expect to be the only one there taking advantage of the free wifi, coffee, tea, cakes, and more.QF‑5, Przejście Garncarskie 2, tel. (+48) 71 714 23 80, www. tajnekomplety.pl. Open 09:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-20:00.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES DRUCIARNIA ARTYSTYCZNA The woman behind this “Artistic Knittery” creates unique, whacky articles of clothing and accessories for free-spirited types, including leather bags with reproductions of famous images and artsy metal jewellery.QF‑4, ul. Grodzka 7.

Open 10:30-18:00; Sat 11:00-14:00; closed Sun. 82

Shopping MOBO This fashion boutique, classily located on Pl. Kościuszki, offers trendy pieces by some thirty Polish designers including Marita Bobko, Undula, Malgrau, Messo, Bucle, Bombata, and More’moi. If you’re all about supporting local brands, then this is your place.

QE‑7, Pl. Kościuszki 12, tel. (+48) 533 54 60 46, www. mo-bo.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. PULPA Wrocław’s Hala Targowa indoor market might be best known for piles of photogenic produce sold by applecheeked babcias and nostalgic remnants of commie-era shopping ops, but the wind of change has arrived here as well. Head upstairs to the xerox shops and 80s/90s throwbacks and you’ll be surprised to discover one of the city’s hippest boutiques, selling minimalist, contemporary, largely grayscale clothing by fashion designer Marta Maruszczyk.QC‑2, ul. Piaskowa 17 no 162 (Hala Targowa), tel. (+48) 732 05 10 83, www.pulpashop.com.

Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun. ROCK SHOP Hard Rock Cafe is more than just a place to eat, drink, and look at vintage guitars - they also sell all sorts of merch, including tees, sweatshirts, beanies, pendants, collectible pins, and even some home items (like glassware), so if you find yourself dressed too stiffly for the occasion, the rock ‘n’ roll look is just a credit card tap away. QF‑5, Rynek 25, tel. (+48) 71 726 11 40, www.hardrock.com/cafes/wroclaw/ pl/. Open 10:00-24:00.

FOOD & SWEETS SŁODKIE CZARY MARY A small, charming hand-made sweets shop on the Rynek, where you watch the candy being made right before your eyes. Most of the interior is occupied by the long work counter where young ladies are busy rolling out the colourful candies that cover the shop shelves as children and their parents watch in wonder. Proper candy-making demonstrations are conducted at 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00 weekdays, and every hour from 12:00-17:00 on weekends.

Not only a great local gift idea, but a unique experience for children; choose from a range of reasonably-priced lollipops and hard candies that come in dozens of flavours from rhubarb to whiskey-cola.QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 27, tel. (+48) 601 46 15 61, www.slodkieczarymary.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-19:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS It’s only natural to want to have a reminder of your visit to Poland and leave with some tangible evidence to show all those folks back home who have no idea what or where the country is. And if you plan on staying with a Polish family while in the country, it’s common practise to arrive with a gift. Wrocław being an established tourist destination, 83

Shopping MARKETS HALA TARGOWA

Designed by Richard Pluddemann and Heinrich Kuster in the neogothic style, Wrocław’s Market Hall was built in 1906-1908 and still serves as one of the top places to shop for produce, despite a proliferation of convenience stores and supermarkets. Simply put, this is a place with a lot of soul, visited for the aesthetic and nostalgic aspect as much as practicality. Sporting a handsome, traditional-looking facade and a cathedral-like interior, this innovative reinforced-concrete structure directly inspired Max Berg to create Wrocław’s UNESCO-listed Centennial Hall. On the ground floor you’ll find earnest locals hawking top quality fruit and vegetables, as well as a wide selection of local cheese, salami, and hams, while upstairs is a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, nylon underwear, and plastic kitchen utensils, and a set of surprisingly clean and modern public toilets. As a bonus, see if you can spot a tiny cafe where aeropress champion Filip Kucharczyk brews some truly splendid coffee.QG‑4, ul. Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 31.

Open 08:00-18:30; closed Sun. ŚWIEBODZKI BAZAAR If you want a real cultural adventure that you’ll remember for a long, long time, head to the no-man’sland behind the defunct Świebodzki train station on a Sunday afternoon and check out this unbelievable open-air bazaar sprawling endlessly west over the train tracks. A truly mind-blowing scene, the size and scope of this market is almost hard to comprehend given its location; from the main entrance near Plac Orląt Lwowskich it unfolds through an endless maze of blue and white striped tents, before devolving into acres of rubbish laid out on dirty blankets over the train tracks or the muddy, barren earth. Here you can buy literally anything under the sun at prices about 50% lower than those you might expect to find anywhere so audacious as to have a floor or a roof. Some of it is perfectly legit, of course, some of it quite dodgy, and most of it complete rubbish; amateur photographers and cultural anthropologists will have a field day here.

Try to visit before noon to see the market in full swing.

QE‑4, ul. Robotnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 717 12 54. Open Sun 06:00-15:00 only.

84

you’ll find souvenir stalls selling chintzy rubbish all around the Old Town; while that’s all well and good, most of this merchandise probably wasn’t made in Poland, just like most of the Mexican food in Poland isn’t prepared by Mexicans. Here, and throughout this section, we’ve made an attempt to identify unique shops in Wrocław that sell local or Polish products so we can all feel good about where you’re spending your złoty.

CEPELIA For over 55 years, this well-recognised company has been promoting and preserving Polish folk art and handicrafts with a wide selection of ceramics, wood carvings, knitwork, wickery, and much more. A lot of is touristy rubbish, but we’ve always fancied the folk costumes (our birthday’s coming up). This shop is huge and seamlessly conjoined to a folk art gallery.QG‑4, Pl. Biskupa Nankiera 5-7, tel. (+48) 71 343 59 79. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. FOLKOWO-LUDOWO If you’re after some nice folksy souvenirs, this is your place: located a pebble’s throw from the main square, FolkowoLudowo is packed with paintings by local artists, amber jewellery, folk art, handmade wooden products, traditional pottery from Opole, handmade tablecloths, and all sorts of items inspired by traditional design.QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 43-44, tel. (+48) 71 740 85 25. Open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 12:00-16:00.

FOLKSTAR Do all your souvenir shopping in one place, assuming that you don’t immediately get dizzy from the ubiquitous floral patterns (and we really mean ubiquitous - it’s intense).

Surprisingly low on kitsch, this little shop actually carries loads of cute trinkets we wouldn’t mind having around the house.QF‑4, ul. Odrzańska 15, tel. (+48) 792 87 70 22, www.folkstar.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

MANUFAKTURA W BOLESŁAWCU For souvenirs which are both authentic and actually useful, hand-painted pottery is the way to go; easily recognisable across Poland, these beauties from the Bolesławiec Pottery Factory have a trademark look and a tradition dating back to the 14th century. Buy your family a tea set and be done with shopping for this trip.QE‑4, ul. Malarska 25/5, tel. (+48) 501 02 44 68, www.polish-pottery.com.pl. Open 10:00-20:00.

VENA POTTERY (GALERIA VENA) If you aren’t familiar with the universally-loved Bolesławiec style of Polish ceramic, which hails from a little town not far to the west of Wrocław, then make sure you drop into this shop on the market square and educate yourself.

Hand-painted in traditional folk motifs, Vena produces pottery that not only looks unique and beautiful, but is also practical for everyday use. This is one of the best collections we’ve seen anywhere and a foolproof gift-giving plan for anyone with a kitchen.QA‑3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 344 43 70, www.vena-ceramika.com.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00. From October open 10:00-18:00.

Shopping WROCŁAW SOUVENIRS Large and perfectly placed on the market square, it’s no surprise that this is one of the longest-running and most successful souvenir shops in town. With all manner of local Wrocław and Polish souvenirs, including an impressive collection of amber and other jewellery, gnome figurines, photo albums, t-shirts, bags, magnets, mugs, keychains, postcards, paintings and more, there’s even a couch for taking a rest when all those shopping bags start weighing you down.QE‑5, Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 74. Open 09:00-18:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-18:00.

SHOPPING MALLS Wrocław is literally chock-a-block with modern shopping malls, the standard of which is exceptionally high.

Here you’ll find all of the top brands you’d expect, plus entertainment and recreational facilities in most cases.

Some of Wrocław’s shopping malls - namely Arkady, Galeria Dominikańska, Renoma and Likus - are directly in the city centre, with the shadow-casting Sky Tower and Pasaż Grunwaldzki not far off. Though the 212 metre Sky Tower is the most visible, Magnolia Park is still the largest, covering over 240,000 square metres.

FENIKS DEPARTMENT STORE Relive the glorious days of the People’s Republic of Poland – or rather the nineties, after communism fell and goods like toilet paper, artificial flowers, and coffee mugs with faces became plentiful - in this still-functioning remnant of a state-run economy. Dating back to 1902, when it opened as the Barasch Brothers Department Store, Feniks was taken from its original owners as a result of antiSemitic policies in what was then a part of Nazi Germany, and promptly made government property when Wrocław was transferred to post-WWII Poland. Prior to privatisation, domy handlowe (department stores) were the place to purchase your biannual pair of shoes using ration stamps or join a waiting list for some furniture amid chronic underproduction. Now crammed with all sorts of colourful merchendise, Feniks is still going strong due to its convenient Main Square location. Well recommended for the cultural and historical factor alone, but convenient for travel essentials as well.QF‑5, ul. Rynek 31/32, tel. (+48) 71 377 18 00, www.feniks.wroc.pl. Open 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-18:00.

GALERIA DOMINIKAŃSKA Wrocław’s most accessible and well-known retail centre, Galeria Dominikańska is a mere five minutes east of the main square, meaning you’re likely to cross paths with it by accident and you’re probably going to get sucked in - as do 13 million people each year. Among the 104 shops (including VAN GRAAF, Reserved, CCC, Max Mara, Kazar, Carrefour, Media Markt, Empik, and an iSpot) you’ll also find some restaurants (Pizza Hut, Ohh! Sushi & Grill, Kuchnia Express Marche, Sevi Kebab, Salad Story, LuLuCafe, Green Cafe Nero, Max Premium Burgers, Sphinx), drug

fot. Stanis≥aw Klimek

4 FLOORS OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 100 YEARS OF ACTIVITY

A Shopping Mall with Tradition on Market Square Rynek 31/32, Wroc≥aw Phone: +48 71 377 18 02

Main entrance between Burger King & McDonaldís 85

Shopping SKY TOWER GALERIA HANDLOWA SKY TOWER Completed in 2012, Wrocław boast the tallest building in Poland (by most measures), which rises some 212m into the atmosphere.

Comprising a small city in and of itself, with residential apartments, offices, shops, restaurants, entertainment, and more over its 50 floors, tourists have plenty of reasons to visit this modern architectural marvel, including possibly the largest pool in PL, a fitness centre, bowling alley, sculptures and murals scattered throughout, and occasional events. The highlight, however, is the year-round indoor viewing point on the 49th floor. At a hight of 200 metres, this is the highest panoramic viewing point in Poland, and accessed by an elevator which whisks you to the top in less than a minute (for 12/18zł per person).

Located only minutes from the Old Town, take tram number 6, 7, 14, or 20 from ‘Rynek’ to 'Wielka'.QC‑9, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 95, tel. (+48) 71 738 31 11, www.galeria.skytower.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. stores Sephora and Douglas, and we don’t even need to tell you what else because you’re most likely already inside.

QG‑6, Pl. Dominikański 3, tel. (+48) 71 344 95 17, www. galeria-dominikanska.pl. Open 09:30-21:00; Sun 10:0020:00.

MAGNOLIA PARK Opened in October 2007, Magnolia Park could be easily interpreted as a symbol of Wrocław’s rocket blast into the 21st century. Situated close to the city centre, Wrocław’s biggest retail complex features over 260 popular chain and designer stores, including Decathlon, Media Markt, Tesco, eobuwie.pl, Zara and Zara Home, Peek&Cloppenburg, Castorama, H&M, Reserved, and Bershka, and you can even take a personal shopping assistant with you to browse - for free! Additionally, plenty of space has been set aside for recreation with a multiplex cinema, outdoor workout zone, basketball court, playground, art and cultural events, plus cafes and fast food chains like Wedel, Karmello, Starbucks, North Fish, KFC, and McDonald’s. You can also purchase mall-wide gift cards, valid for almost all Magnolia Park stores. To get there hop on tram no. 3, 10, 20, or 33 at ‘Rynek’ or no. 31, 32 at ‘pl. Legionów’, getting off at ‘Niedźwiedzia’ (a mere ten-minute journey).Qul. Legnicka 58 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 338 44 66, www.magnoliapark.pl. Open 09:00-21:00.

86

RENOMA One of the largest pre-war department stores in Europe, this magnificent consumer showpiece was added to the Register of Historical Monuments in 1977 and has now been restored and modernised for today’s retail market.

The unique 1930s facade of ceramic tiles and gilded heads has been returned to its former glory while inside you’ll find today’s most cutting-edge brands, plus a third floor food court with fine views of the Old Town. Along with the original building’s refurbishment, a new modern wing was added on Plac Czysty. Easily outclassing the city’s other shopping malls and smack in the centre, if it was in our disposition to call a shopping mall a must-see attraction, this would fit the bill.QE‑7, ul. Świdnicka 40, tel. (+48) 71 772 58 20, www.renoma-wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

WROCLAVIA Wrocław got a brand new bus station recently, and that could only mean one thing - Wrocław also got a brand new shopping centre to go along with it. Beyond stocking up on travel essentials like food, toiletries, magazines, and coffee for the bleary-eyed, visitors can use the time between connections to drift in and out of stores like Sfera, Zara, Uterqüe, Peek&Cloppenburg, Estée Lauder, Mohito, Bershka, H&M, and some 180 others. There’s also an IMAX-equipped Cinema City, an amusement centre for children, and even a 24h gym. Of note to travellers who don’t have time to venture out to city centre is the upstairs Grand Kitchen food court, which mercifully goes beyond the expected fast food joints and offers some real food at Wrocław staple Pasibus, plus good coffee from Etno Cafe, another familiar local brand. Restaurants and Cinema City remain open on shopping-ban Sundays.QF‑9, ul. Sucha 1, tel. (+48) 71 748 30 00, www.wroclavia.pl. Open 09:0021:00.

WROCŁAW FASHION OUTLET This 18,000 square metre outlet centre close to the Wrocław Airport is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the 100+ brands you’ll find here include Guess, Calzedonia, Levi’s, New Balance, Pepe Jeans, Mustang, Adidas, Trussardi, and Lacoste. As of recently, there’s also a Pasibus burger joint, which remains open even on shopping-ban Sundays (9:00-21:00). If you need some new designer stuff jump on bus 106 at either ‘Renoma’or ‘Pl. Orląt Lwowskich’or bus 132 at ‘Rynek’, getting off at ‘Mińska (Rondo Rotm. Pileckiego)’ each time; bus 106 will also take you directly to the airport, if your shopping is super last-minute.Qul. Graniczna 2 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 374 00 45, www.wroclawfashionoutlet.com.

Open 10:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00.

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Services Directory 24-HOUR SHOPS DELIKATESY A small shop with all your basic needs at all hours.QE‑6, ul.

Kazimierza Wielkiego 27.

DELIKATESY 24 Opposite several clubs, expect an entertaining queue at all hours in this basic food and alcohol shop.QE‑5, ul. Św.

Mikołaja 72, tel. (+48) 71 794 77 68.

24-HOUR PHARMACIES KATEDRALNA An all-night pharmacy northeast of the Old Town and Ostrów Tumski.QJ‑3, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. (+48) 71 322 73 15.

POD LWAMI Wrocław’s most centrally-located all-night pharmacy, just west of the Old Town.QD‑5, Pl. Jana Pawła II 7, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 24.

24-HOUR POST OFFICE POCZTA POLSKA This post office on Wrocław’s market square is conveniently open 24-7.QF‑5, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 32, www. poczta-polska.pl. Open 24-hours.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES In Wrocław, unfortunately, unless you are German or Austrian, your nearest consulate or embassy is likely in Kraków (272km away), Prague (335km), Berlin (346km) or Warsaw (347km).

AUSTRIAN CONSULATE IN WROCŁAW Qul. Skwierzyńska 21/10, tel. (+48) 782 17 37 77, www. konsulat-austrii-wroclaw.pl.

GERMAN CONSULATE IN WROCŁAW QH‑6, ul. Podwale 76, tel. (+48) 71 377 27 00, www. breslau.diplo.de.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE KANTOR QF‑5, ul. Oławska 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 78, www.dorex. com.pl. Open 08:30-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

KANTOR CENT QF‑5, ul. Świdnicka 3, tel. (+48) 71 372 35 02, www. centkantor.pl. Open 24/7.

KANTOR DUKAT QF‑5, ul. Szewska 22/23, tel. (+48) 71 344 76 58, www. kantordukat.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. 88

reklama_60x185-2018

Services Directory DENTISTS DENTAL ART A private dental clinic offering all the standard toothy treatments, plus a 24-hour emergency hotline.QE‑9, ul.

Komandorska 53A/3B, tel. (+48) 71 373 22 66, www. dental-art.pl. Open 24-hours.

PRESTIGE DENT This dentist office is right downtown, but you need to make an appointment beforehand.QF‑6, ul. Oławska 9, tel. (+48) 663 67 77 77, www.prestigedent.com.pl. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun.

LAUNDRY SPEED QUEEN LAUNDRY QE‑3, ul. Kurkowa 14, tel. (+48) 570 17 00 12, www. samo-pranie.pl. Open 07:00-22:00.

RELOCATION COMPANIES LESS MESS STORAGE This professional self-storage company offers locker rentals in sizes up to 20 square metres, as well as moving services and moving vehicle rentals.Qul. Pełczyńska 19, tel. (+48) 71 757 22 03, www.lessmess.storage.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.

English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: (+48) 608 59 99 99 or (+48) 22 278 77 77 (mobile or landline).

For urgent medical emergencies, use the listings below. The emergency room in PL is called SOR and should only be visited when absolutely necessary. In less urgent crises we recommend you visit a private clinic, where you’ll get better service and avoid the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals.

EMERGENCY ROOM (SOR) Emergency services just south of the city centre (about a 30min cab ride from the market square).Qul. Weigla 5 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 261 66 02 22, www.4wsk.pl.

MEDICOVER This centrally-located private medical centre is within walking distance of the train and bus stations.QD‑8, Powstańców Śląskich 7A, tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.com. Open 07:30-20:00; Sat 08:0014:00; closed Sun. 89

Hotels

Chrapek, the little snorer, sleeps it off outside the Patio Hotel. More gnomes on p.41. | © Klearchos Kapoutsis/flickr.com/CC BY 2.0

No matter what end of the price spectrum you’re able to entertain, in Wrocław you have plenty of options from 5-star presidentials to budget boarding houses, boutique B&Bs to boisterous hostels, historic apartments to business suites. The market is positively flooded with hotel rooms (well over 3,500), with several new options opening each year. On our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com - we list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and around the Lower Silesian capital, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include all of that content here as we once did, however we still provide an updated list of reputable hotels, apartments and hostels below. Sleep well.

CREAM OF THE CROP DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOTEL WROCŁAW QH‑6, ul. Podwale 84, tel. (+48) 71 777 00 00, www. wroclaw.doubletree.com. 189 rooms (12 apartments).

P­U­6­K­H­C­F­w hhhhh MONOPOL QE‑6, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2, tel. (+48) 71 772 37 77, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl.

121 rooms (14 suites). P­U­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhhh 90

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning C‑1 Map Coordinate F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Guarded parking on site

6 Animal friendly

w Wellness

C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available

PLATINUM PALACEQul. Powstańców Śląskich 204 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 327 06 00, www.platinumpalace.pl.

46 rooms (41 singles, 41 doubles, 5 suites). P­U­L­ 6­K­H­D­F­w hhhhh SOFITEL WROCŁAW OLD TOWN QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 67, tel. (+48) 71 358 83 00, www. sofitel-wroclaw.com. 205 rooms (15 apartments).

P­U­6­K­H­D­F­w hhhhh THE BRIDGE WROCŁAW MGALLERY HOTEL COLLECTIONQI‑4, Pl. Katedralny 8, tel. (+48) 71 727 31 00, www.accorhotels.com. P­T­U­L­6­H­D­ F­w hhhhh THE GRANARY LA SUITE HOTEL WROCLAW CITY CENTER QF‑6, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 00, www. thegranaryhotel.com. 46 rooms (7 apartments). P­U­ L­6­K­H­F hhhhh

UPMARKET ART HOTEL QE‑4, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, tel. (+48) 71 787 74 00, www. arthotel.pl. 80 rooms. P­U­L­6­K­H­F hhhh DWÓR POLSKI QE‑5, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 372 34 19, www. dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. 28 rooms (4 apartments).

6­K­H hhhh EUROPEUMQE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27A, tel. (+48) 71 371 44 00, www.europeum.pl. 36 rooms.

P­U­L­K­H­D­F hhh MERCURE WROCŁAW CENTRUM QG‑6, Pl. Dominikański 1, tel. (+48) 71 323 27 00, www. mercure.com. 151 rooms (7 apartments). P­U­L­6­ K­H­w hhhh PARK HOTEL DIAMENT WROCŁAW Qul. Muchoborska 10 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 735 03 50, www.hotelediament.pl. 132 rooms (3 suites, 2 apartments). P­U­6­K­H­D­F hhhh 91

Hotels PURO HOTEL WROCŁAW QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 6, tel. (+48) 71 772 51 00, www. purohotel.pl. 102 rooms. P­U­L­6­K­H hhh Q HOTEL PLUS WROCŁAW QD‑9, ul. Zaolziańska 2, tel. (+48) 71 749 17 00, www. qhotels.pl. 127 rooms. P­T­U­L­6­K­H­F hhhh QUBUS HOTEL WROCŁAW QF‑5, ul. Św. Marii Magdaleny 2, tel. (+48) 71 797 98 00, www.qubushotel.com. 83 rooms. P­U­L­6­K­H­ C­D­F hhhh SCANDIC WROCŁAW QE‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57, tel. (+48) 71 787 00 00, www.scandichotels.com. 164 rooms. P­U­L­6­K­ H­D­F hhhh SLEEPWALKER BOUTIQUE SUITES QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 733 35 55 35, www.sleepwalker.pl. 19 rooms (7 apartments). P­U­ L­H hhhh

MID-RANGE

A pleasant stay in Wrocław’s Old Town

CAMPANILE WROCŁAW STARE MIASTO QE‑3, ul. Jagiełły 7, tel. (+48) 71 326 78 00, www. campanile-wroclaw.pl. 110 rooms. P­U­6­K­H hhh

• convenient location • comfortable for work and relaxation • free wi-fi • welcome package in each room • TV with Canal+ • restaurant serving Polish and International cuisine • conferences, trainings and banquets

CITI HOTEL’S QB‑4, ul. Trzemeska 10, tel. (+48) 71 889 00 15, www. cfihotels.pl. 63 rooms. L­6

ul. Jagiełły 7, 50-201 Wrocław Tel. +48 71 326 78 00, Fax: +48 71 326 78 01 wroclaw@campanile.com, www.campanile-wroclaw.pl

92

BOUTIQUE BRAJT HOTEL QD‑5, ul. Pawła Włodkowica 18, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 81.

8 rooms. P­U­L­6 hhh

DUET QD‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 47-48, tel. (+48) 71 785 51 00, www.hotelduet.pl. 39 rooms. P­L­6­K­H hhh EUROPEJSKI QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 88, tel. (+48) 71 772 10 00, www. europejskiwroclaw.pl. 96 rooms. P­U­6­K­H hhh HOTEL ZOO QO‑7, ul. Wróblewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 510 091 913, www.zoo-hotel.pl. P­U­L­K­H­F hhh IBIS STYLES WROCŁAW CENTRUM QG‑8, ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 00, www.ibis.com. 133 rooms. P­U­L­6­H hhh KORONA HOTEL WROCLAW MARKET SQUARE QF‑5, ul. Oławska 2, tel. +48 71 729 25 00, www. koronahotel.com.pl. P­U­6­W­K

Hotels LOTHUSQG‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 22/23, tel. (+48) 536 03 10 44, www.lothuswroclaw.pl. 76 rooms (12 singles, 61 doubles, 3 suites). U­6­K hhh NOVOTEL WROCŁAW CITYQul. Wyścigowa 35 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 339 80 51, www.accorhotels.com.

145 rooms. P­U­L­6­K­H hhh PATIO QE‑5, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71 375 04 00, www.hotelpatio.pl. 50 rooms. P­U­K­H hhh POLONIA QE‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 343 10 21, www. poloniawroclaw.pl. 123 rooms. U­6­K hhh SOFIAQG‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 104 (entrance from ul.

Gwarna 23), tel. (+48) 508 90 36 01, www.hotelsofia.pl.

36 rooms. P­U­H hhh TUMSKI QG‑3, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 99, www. hotel-tumski.com.pl. 57 rooms (1 suite, 1 apartment).

U­6­K­H hhh WEISER HOTEL QAl. Kromera 16, tel. (+48) 71 364 97 00, www.weiserhotel.pl. 108 rooms. P­U­L­6­K­H­C hhh

SOLPOL Wrocław’s most infamous architectural creation has to be the Solpol department store on ul. Świdnicka 18/20 (F-6). Designed by postmodernist architect Wojciech Jarząbek during a single, intensive 120h period in 1992, this ‘scaled-up 1990s ice-cream parlour’ (as architect Aleksandra Wasilkowska put it) is an adventure in wonky shapes and flamboyant colour whose existence can only be explained by early post-communist Poland’s insatiable yearning for colour and novelty. Originally filled with retailers, Solpol fell out of favour with Wroclavians as swanky shopping malls started popping up in the city. Despite periodically made announcements that the building is to be finally put out of its misery by the unlucky owner, in recent years attempts have been made to get the now-empty structure onto the Polish register of objects of cultural heritage as a testament to the transitional period of early 1990s Poland.

WODNIK QL‑7, ul. Na Grobli 28, tel. (+48) 71 343 36 67, www. wodnik-hotel.pl. 18 rooms. L­K­H hhh

BUDGET AKIRA BED & BREAKFAST QE‑2, Pl. Strzelecki 28, tel. (+48) 71 323 08 88, www. hotelakira.pl. 21 rooms. 6 B&B HOTEL QG‑6, ul. Piotra Skargi 24-28, tel. (+48) 71 324 09 80, www.hotelbb.pl. 140 rooms. P­X­U­L­6­H hh BOOGIE HOSTEL DELUXE QE‑5, ul. Białoskórnicza 6, tel. (+48) 691 35 02 65, www. boogiehostel.com. 13 rooms.

CILANTRO BED & BREAKFAST QE‑2, ul. Pomorska 32/26-29, tel. (+48) 71 793 86 82, www.cilantro.pl. 9 rooms. U­L­6 HOTEL PIAST QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 98, tel. (+48) 71 769 62 00, www. piastwroclaw.pl. 92 rooms. P­U­6­K­H hh IBIS BUDGET WROCŁAW STADION Qul. Lotnicza 151 (Pilczyce), tel. (+48) 71 353 84 48, www.ibisbudget.com. 122 rooms. P­U­L­6 h 93

Hotels APARTMENTS APARTHOTEL BIKE UP QF‑8, ul. Kościuszki 51B, tel. (+48) 71 757 08 05, www. bikeup.com.pl. 6 ART APART QI‑6, ul. Walońska 7/1, tel. (+48) 667 71 71 71, www. artapart.pl. 52 apartments. L­6 EXCLUSIVE APARTMENTS HOTELS QG‑5, ul. Krawiecka 6/4, tel. (+48) 515 13 81 77, www. exclusiveapartments.pl. 62 apartments. P LEOAPARTQF‑4, ul. Więzienna 5, tel. (+48) 71 330 71 21, www.leoapart.com. 50 apartments. L­6 LUCKY APARTMENTS QG‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 15, tel. (+48) 730 89 99 88, www. luckyapart.pl. 52 apartments. 6

ul. Pomorska 32, 50-218 Wrocław tel./fax 71 793 86 82 info@hotelcilantro.pl

+48 730 899 988 +48 794 498 998

Lucky Apartments & One Lucky Hostel

NO NAME APARTMENTS QE‑5, ul. Ruska 41/42, tel. (+48) 735 14 31 43, www. nonameapartments.com. 8 apartments. L SILVER APARTMENTS QG‑5, ul. Krawiecka 3/18, tel. (+48) 698 68 83 44, www. silverapartments.pl. 40 apartments. P­L­6 ST. DOROTHY’S QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 24/26 lok.2, tel. (+48) 602 50 66 47, www.stdhostel.pl. 6 apartments.

HOSTELS BABELQF‑8, ul. Kołłątaja 16/3, tel. (+48) 71 342 02 50, www.babelhostel.pl. 18 rooms (1 quad, 1 suite, 34 Dorm beds).

BAZA 15 QD‑3, ul. Romana Dmowskiego 15, tel. (+48) 792 72 63 00, www.baza15.pl. 20 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles, 12 triples, 12 quads, 63 Dorm beds, 1 Five-person room).

BOOGIE APARTHOUSE QE‑4, ul. Garbary 2, tel. (+48) 605 07 10 10, www. boogiehostel.com. 14 rooms (2 singles, 8 doubles, 4 suites, 32 dorm beds). P

Hostel & Apartments in Wroclaw Old Town!

BOOGIE HOSTEL QD‑5, ul. Ruska 34, tel. (+48) 691 35 02 65, www. boogiehostel.com. 21 rooms (14 singles, 14 doubles, 14 triples, 4 quads, 2 suites, 67 dorm beds). P

www.luckyapart.pl wroclaw@luckyapart.pl Ul. Wita Stwosza 12

CINNAMON QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48) 511 70 96 17, www.cinnamonhostel.com. 10 rooms (3 doubles, 1 quad, 3 six-person room, 3 eight-person room, 52 dorm beds). 6

Reception open 24/7

94

Hotels FIVE STARS B&B AND APARTMENTS QD‑5, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 881 33 93 39, www.5starshostel.com. U­6 GRAMPA’S HOSTEL QF‑2, Pl. Św. Macieja 2/1, tel. (+48) 789 24 12 77.

9 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles, 1 quad, 46 dorm beds, 2 eight-person room, 1 ten-person room, 1 twelveperson room).

HOSTEL BEMMA QE‑5, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 15, tel. (+48) 531 53 15 98, www.hostelbemma.pl. 21 rooms (2 singles, 6 doubles, 4 triples, 3 quads, 75 dorm beds, 2 5-person room, 1 6-person room, 3 8-person room). 6 HOSTEL ON THE ISLAND (SCHRONISKO NA WYSPIE) QG‑3, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 99, www. hotel-tumski.com.pl. 7 rooms (36 dorm beds). K MLECZARNIA QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 787 75 70, www. mleczarniahostel.pl. 8 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad, 34 dorm beds).

MOON HOSTEL QE‑6, ul. Krupnicza 6-8 (entrance from Kazimierza Wielkiego 27), tel. (+48) 508 77 72 00, www.moonhostel. pl. 47 rooms (17 doubles, 12 triples, 7 quads, 6 5-person room, 2 6-person room, 2 8-person room). 6 ONE LUCKY HOSTEL QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 730 89 99 88, www. luckyapart.pl. 38 rooms (18 doubles, 14 quads, 2 fiveperson, 4 seven-person). L­6 ROYAL HOSTEL QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27, tel. (+48) 504 74 33 32, www.royalhostel.pl. 28 rooms (20 singles, 23 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad, 1 Five-person room, 2 Sixperson room). A­6

HOTEL | CONGRESS CENTRE | RESTAURANT

WRATISLAVIA QH‑7, ul. Komuny Paryskiej 19, tel. (+48) 71 360 08 22, www.hostel-wratislavia.pl. 44 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles, 3 triples, 15 quads, 10 apartments, 78 dorm beds, 1 5-person room, 7 6-person room). U­6

www.terminalhotel.pl

AIRPORT HOTEL TERMINAL HOTEL Qul. Rakietowa 33 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 773 55 75, www.terminalhotel.pl. 51 Total rooms. P­U­ 6­K­H hhh

ul. Rakietowa 33, Wrocław tel.: + 48 71 773 55 75, biuro@terminalhotel.pl

95

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inyourpocket.com

Index 4Hops 73 1450 Smokehouse & Cocktail

59, 78 Ahimsa Restaurant & Club 70 Akira Bed & Breakfast 93 AleBrowar 73 Amorinio.pl 52 Aparthotel Bike Up 94 Archaeology Museum 42 Architecture Museum 42 Art Apart 94 Art Cafe Kalambur 77 Art Hotel 91 Babel 94 Barka Tumska 59 Baszta Niedźwiadka 31 Baza 15 94 B&B Hotel 93 Bema Cafe 52 Bernard 60 Bezsenność 77 Bierhalle 74 Blackboard Pub 73 Boogie ApartHouse 94 Boogie Hostel 94 Boogie Hostel Deluxe 93 Botanical Garden 35 Boutique Brajt Hotel 92 Brasserie 27 60 Browar Złoty Pies 74 Bułka z Masłem 52 Butchery & Grill 57 Cafe Rozrusznik 52 Cafeterie Chic 33 Campanile Wrocław Stare Miasto 92 CAMPO 60 Capri Ristorante Pizzeria 64 Cathedral of St. John the Baptist 35 Centennial Hall & Discovery Centre 37 Central Cafe 53, 70 Cepelia 84 Chatka Przy Jatkach 67 Church of Saints Peter & Paul

33 Church of the Holy Cross / St. Bartholomew's 34 Cilantro Bed & Breakfast 93 Cinnamon 94 Citi Hotel's 92 Cocofli 53 Corso 64, 78, 80 Czary Mary 60

Darea Sushi Korean - Japanese Restaurant 65 De' Molika 82 Dim Sum Garden 58 Dinette 70 Domówka 77 DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Wrocław 90 Druciarnia Artystyczna 82 Duet 92 Duża Czarna 82 Dwór Polski 68, 91 Ethnographic Museum 42 Etno Cafe 53 Europejski 92 Europeum 91 Exclusive Apartments Hotels

94 Feniks Department Store 85 Five Stars B&B and Apartments

95 Folkowo-Ludowo 84 Folkstar 84 Galeria Dominikańska 85 Galeria Handlowa Sky Tower

86 Galeria Schubert 81 Giselle French Bakery Cafe 70 Gniazdo 53 Grampa's Hostel 95 Grey Music Club 78 Hala Targowa 30, 84 Hard Rock Cafe 57, 73

Hortyca 70 Hostel Bemma 95 Hostel on the Island 95 Hotel Piast 93 Hotel Zoo 92 Ibis Budget Wrocław Stadion

93 Ibis Styles Wrocław Centrum

92 Iggy Pizza 65 Iglica 36 Jadka 68 Jaffa 67 Japanese Garden 38 Jaś & Małgosia 28 John of Nepomuk 35 Karczma Lwowska 68 Kartell Flagstore 81 Kolejkowo 51 Konspira 43, 68 Kontynuacja 74 Korona Hotel Wroclaw Market Square 92 KRVN 74 La Maddalena 61 La Scala 65 Leoapart 94 Lilou 81 Lothus 93 Lucky Apartments 94 Lwia Brama2 33 Magnolia Park 86 Mañana Cafe 78

Manufaktura w Bolesławcu 84 Marina 61 Market Square 27 Marynka Piwo i Aperitivo 74 Masala Indian Restaurant 58 Mennicza Fusion 61 Mercure Wrocław Centrum 91 Mia Art Gallery 12 Military Museum 43 Ministerstwo Śledzia i Wódki

76 Mleczarnia 74, 95 Moaburger 57 Mobo 83 Monopol 90 Moon Hostel 95 Municipal Swimming Pools 49 Nagi Kamerdyner 76 Najadacze.pl 71 National Museum 43 Natural History Museum 43 Nietota 75 Niezły Dym 65 No Name Apartments 94 Novotel Wrocław City 93 OK Wine Bar 61, 78 Old Jewish Cemetery 40 One Lucky Hostel 95 Osiem Misek 58 Paloma 53 Panczo 66 Panczo Wita Stwosza 70 Pan Tadeusz Museum 44

Wrocław does the holiday season right with its annual Christmas Fair (p.16).

Maciek Szczerba, courtesy of Art Hotel

97

Index

Looks like hot beer (p.73) weather.

Papa Bar 75 Park Hotel Diament Wrocław

91 Park Staromiejski Carousel 51 Passenger Cruises 48 Patio 93 PINTA 75 Pinto Peri-Peri & Grill 70 Plac Solny 27 Platinum Palace 91 Pod Fredrą 69 Pod Papugami 62, 75 Polish Poster Gallery 82 Polonia 93 Post & Communications Museum 44 Przystań 62 PULPA 83 PURO Hotel Wrocław 92 Q Hotel Plus Wrocław 92 Qubus Hotel Wrocław 92 Questa 62 Racławice Panorama 46 Renoma 86 Restauracja Acquario 62 Restauracja Monopol 69 Rock Shop 83 Royal Hostel 95 Sarah 66 Scandic Wrocław 92 Seoul Korean Grill Restaurant

65 Setka 69, 76 Silver Apartments 94

98

SleepWalker Boutique Suites

92 Słodkie Czary Mary 83 Soczewka 58 Sofia 93 Sofitel Wrocław Old Town 91 Spiż Brewery 74 Stare Jatki 28 Stary Klasztor 63 Statek Wratislavia Restauracja z Nurtem 63 St. Dorothy's 94 St. Elizabeth's Church 28 St. Martin's Church 33 Sukiennice 7 63 Surowiec 78 Świebodzki Bazaar 84 Szajba 76 Szajnochy 11 66 Szklarnia 76 Tajne Komplety 82 Taszka Wine & Petiscos 70 Terminal Hotel 95 Thali na Ruskiej 59 The Bente Kahan Foundation 40 The Bridge Wrocław MGallery Hotel Collection 91 The Depot History Centre 46 The Four Dome Pavilion: Museum of Contemporary Art

37 The Granary La Suite Hotel Wroclaw City Center 91 The Ossolineum 30

The Royal Palace, History Museum 46 The White Stork Synagogue 40 TourCity Panorama 48 Town Hall, Museum of Burgher Art 27 Tumski 93 Umami Dumpling & Pasta Bar 67

University Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus 30 Vega 71 Vena Pottery 84 Vertigo Jazz Club & Restaurant

63, 78 Vinyl Cafe 53 Weiser Hotel 93 Whiskey in the Jar 76 Wilk Syty 71 Wodnik 93 Woosabi 58 Wratislavia 95 Wroclavia 86 Wrocław Aquapark 51 Wrocław Contemporary Museum 47 Wrocław Fashion Outlet 86 Wrocław Fountain 39 Wroclaw Rolling Tours 48 Wrocław Souvenirs 85 Wrocław University 29 Wrocław Zoo & Afrykarium 51 Wuwa Cafe 39 Wydział Kulinarny / Culinary Faculty 64 Wywrotowa 76 ZENKA Cafe 64

FEATURES & CATEGORIES Breakfast Breweries Health & Emergency Hot Beer?

Hydropolis John of Nepomuk Konspira Markets Neon Wrocław Penitent's Bridge Polish Snacks & Shots Racławice Panorama Recovered Territories Sky Tower Solpol Sunday Shopping Ban The Lamplighter Tipping Tribulations Useful Transport Apps Wait, Where Am I? WuWA

70 74 89 73 44 35 43 84 47 28 76 46 38 86 93 80 34 57 21 25 39