Warsaw In Your Pocket City Guide_ April-May 2024

Featured this issue:

Signs of Spring p.10

Where to eat and spend time in the sun

Specjały Regionalne p.14

A traditional Polish kitchen

FACTORY Outlets p.16

www.amberwarsaw.pl

www.warsawamber.pl

Grajewska

Otwocka aksńimołoW

ńiMks a Ż u inpazc

Londyńska Międzynarodowa

Mke s kyńaks a Saska Saska Obrońców Niekłańska

Kbuńaks a

ParyskaWandy Nobla B Wąchocka

Francuska ikwórbąD

iSldekce a akslebuL Poselska aksńaipokaZ Łżmoaksńy aksńimyzdaR

ńyzcęwaKks a icywZóczę w Katowicka

Bulw.FlotylliWiślanej Solec Z kbąkswo a akcotsołaiB Z a m o ś ic e adapotsiL11 Brzeska Konopacka alokoS Środkowa anwóR Jakubowska Markowska W a l e c z n hcy B e r ze ńyaks Czeska awolatS Stalowa L i ksp a Gdorńeizaks

lParellaH. Bathcer Borowskiego ńeliWaks

Al.Zieleniecka jiKkswo a akswojiK

Dąbrowiecka

Bulw.Religi

Łhcokswo a arellihcS

Bulw.Pattona

Bulw. Pattona

NowyŚwiat

Bul.Karskiego

WYB.HELSKIE WYB.GDAŃSKIE

Rafała K r a j e iksw e og

KrakowskiePrzedmieście

Moliera Wierzbowa

Bugaj Wisła Wisła Złote Tarasy PKIN

w y Z j a z d Fkolas Bdeksran a Browarna Dynasy aworaK iLawop K s ią żę c a daRan Topiel ńyzczseLks a óJycjanazSafez lomSan Wi Takma ogeikswokzcurK Panieńska Solec Dobra Dobra jaZazcę J.Sierakowskiego Namysłowska F lo r iańska awozsutaR Dąbrowszczaków kOiezr anduL Czerniakowska Inżynierska Rozbrat Targowa Okrąg Mała anpęK akswonaliW

óGksr i e og

Nowiniarska łZto a Śiw tęko zr ksy a Świętokrzyska Bielańska Próżna B a ong wódeneW

Freta Miodowa

Ficnarkzsńaaks S a ipżeńyks a

AL. "SOLIDARNOŚCI"

S aksrotane

Mazowiecka

Kdertyawo Podwale Rybaki

Zg o da

R isy a

Ndorgowokz a Żiwaru a Piwna Jasna diWko Ndorgowokz a Kozia W s óp l an akzdorG hCimlean aworaK Wkcera a źobO an Bracka K Krucza No

Klórkswe a ałaceiN agułD

Bonifraterska awokrapyzdęiM

Westfield Arkadia Fort Traugutta

Pńaks a aksrotkiwnoK Wałowa

EmiliiPlater Ś iwę t o jaksre Koźla

P t isa a Ś l i ks a

Jagiellońska ikswotopołKoge ogeikswoknicraM Żelaz

Zamenhofa

Hżo a Zakroczymska

Czackiego Smocza

lP . iMkswor i Waliców

MARSZAŁKOWSKA AL.JANAPAWŁAII

Poznań

Ciasna EmiliiP

Pńaks a drawT a otnarepsE

anlarotkelE adrawT ilowoNikp

Nilowoikp Karmelicka hCimlean Pawia Śmiała lfnIakcna

Ldu kiw a R dyigy e r a łZto a adrawT Żelazna Żelazna iSanne Ciepła Orla

Bajońska

nParyska dy Bajońska Wąchocka

Museum Gallery Church Synagogue/Jewish centre Monument Tourist information Street Art/Mural Viewpoint Cinema Hotel Bus station Theatre Concert Hall Train station Shopping Mall Market Playground Public Beach Boat rental/River

Stępińska Ła z ie n ko w s k a Stępińska Szwoleże r ów Chełmska 29 Listop a da Iwicka Iwicka Czerska Bobrowiecka L u d w ig a v a n B e e t hove n a Zwierzyniecka Btra kcy a aipokaZ

ParkŚmigłego-Rydza

Gen.Zaruskiego

Most Łazienkowski

Ibis BudgetCentrum

Myśliwiecka

Polish Parliament

Gen.Zaruskiego

LegiaWarszawa Stadium

AL. ARMII LUDOWEJ

LegiaWarszawa Stadium

Myśliwiecka Górska Stępińska Ła z ie n ko w s k a Stępińska Szwoleże r ów Chełmska 29 Listop a da Iwicka Iwicka Czerska Bobrowiecka L u d w ig a v a n B e e t hove n a Zwierzyniecka Btra kcy a

Myśliwiecka

Kino.Lab

AL. ARMII LUDOWEJ

Park Agrykola

Kino.Lab

Warszawa Ibis BudgetCentrum

IgnacyPaderewski Ronald Reagan Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship

Kbu Gńyzczsoks i e og Pilicka Krasickiego

Profesorski

Profesorski

Park Agrykola

IgnacyPaderewski Ronald Reagan

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art Former GestapoHQ Palace on the Island

Łazienki Królewskie Park Belwederski

Łazienki Królewskie Park Belwederski Botanical Garden

Al. Ujazdowskie Sielecka

Myśliwiecka Górska

Park Sielecki

Park Sielecki

Lennona Belwederska Ludowa Jazdów Promenada Konduktorska Kręta aksńyzcesaiP J ksworowa a Parkowa óGśonr ląks a Czerniakowska D o l n a Rozbrat Rozbrat Fba r anzcy P o d c h o r żą y c h naliW

Luna

L itewska Koszykowa akswotokoM Al. Róż A l Wy z w o l e n i a lKawono iW l l awo Tyniecka Chocimska B a g a t e l a Belgijska Agry kola P kię n a Wiejska Al Ujazdowskie Lennona Belwederska Ludowa Jazdów Promenada Konduktorska Kręta aksńyzcesaiP J ksworowa a Parkowa óGśonr ląks a D o l n a Rozbrat Fba r anzcy P o d c h o r żą y c h

Hżo a

Krzyży Pl. Konstytucji Hala Koszyki

Poznańska

Pl. Konstytucji Hala Koszyki

Al. Ujazdowskie Sielecka

ROYAL ROUTE

Luna

Marszałkowska ńska

ROYAL ROUTE

Former GestapoHQ

Waryńskiego ahcuzS

Marszałkowska

ROYALROUTE

ROYALROUTE

Warsaw University of Technology

Warsaw University of Technology

National Library Polish Parliament

Belweder Residence Chopin Monument

Plac Unii City Shopping

IndependentPublic Central Clinical Hospital SapperMonument Saska KępaBeach

Park Kultury Park Promenada

Mokotów Fields

University ofTechnologyStadium

Stodoła Club

Park Promenada Morskie Oko Park

Morskie Oko Park

New Theatre

Reytan

Żelazna ogeikciwyzrK

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art Wola Museum

Mokotów Fields

New Theatre

Stodoła Club

Rłcaiwakc a W s óp l an U sr kswony a Polna Melsztyńska Polna Btaogero Krucza Gżar yny Szarotki

Premiere Classe

Regent WarsawHotel Belwederski Campanile Golden Tulip MDM Reytan

Warsaw Water Filters

Iluzjon

Gżar yny Szarotki L itewska Koszykowa akswotokoM Al. Róż A l . Wy z w o l e n i a lKawono iW l l awo Tyniecka Chocimska B a g a t e l a Belgijska Agry kola P kię n a Wiejska Al Ujazdowskie

Iluzjon

Park Arkadia

Mokotów Fields

Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship RailwayMuseum

Regent WarsawHotel Belwederski Campanile Golden Tulip MDM

Botanical Garden Fort Mokotów

H o Hżo a Plater Ko s z ky o w a iW l azc Wilcza Asfaltowa Rkaiwokce a Mdala i ńks i e og P kięan Mlakswezc i e og żóR ana D bąkswor i e og dOlońaks a kiW tksro a Lwowska N o w o w i e j s k a Kazimierzowska Nbrattu a Wiśniowa

Łowicka

bDą r kswo i e og zna ogeikciwyzrK

M i k o ł a j a R e j a

Belweder Residence Chopin Monument Radisson Blu Sobieski Polna Wodny Park Plac Unii City Shopping

Niemcew icza

Radisson Blu Sobieski Polna Wodny Park

Waryńskiego ahcuzS Rłcaiwakc a

Hżo a EmiliiPlater Ko s z ky o w a iW l azc Wilcza Asfaltowa Rkaiwokce a Mdala i ńks i e og Ndorgowokz a P kięan Mlakswezc i e og Żiwaru a żóR ana D bąkswor i e og dOlońaks a kiW tksro a Lwowska N o w o w i e j s k a Ngowo Kazimierzowska Nbrattu a Wiśniowa Rłcaiwakc a W s óp l an W s óp l an U sr kswony a Polna Melsztyńska Polna Btaogero Krucza

Warsaw Water Filters National Library

RKS Skra

Mo c h n ogeikcaMogeikswonai

Niemcew icza

Mo c h n ogeikcaMogeikswonai

Palace on the Island Central Clinical Hospital MSWiA

Gńyzczsoks i e og Pilicka Krasickiego

Ju l iana Ku ls k i e g o F i l t r o w a F i l t r o w a Gimnastyczna W o jichce a Okzc i Ko s z ky o w a J lu i ana B ur n a Nbrattu a aksńiwraK Rkaiwokce a N o w o w i e j s k a kiW tksro a Atnino e og dEdraw a dO ńy ac Łowicka Kielecka

Rkaiwokce a N o w o w i e j s k a kiW tksro a Atnino e og dEdraw a dO ńy ac Łowicka Kielecka

RKS Skra University ofTechnologyStadium

Mokotów Fields

Clinical Hospital MSWiA IndependentPublic Central Clinical Hospital Syrena

Rłcaiwakc a

Łowicka bDą r kswo i e og

Miedziana Ndorgowokz a Sberanr akzdębołiM adrawT Ju l iana Ku ls k i e g o F i l t r o w a F i l t r o w a hCimlean Gimnastyczna W o jichce a Okzc i Ko s z ky o w a J lu i ana B ur n a

Soviet War Cemetery Aviator Monument

Och-Theatre TR

Proxima Club

Nbrattu a aksńiwraK

ł a w i c k a aksńyzcraT Rosta f i ńskich Rko i tinkc a

Soviet War Cemetery Aviator Monument

Och-Theatre TR Warszawa

Proxima Club

Klo e jawo ogeiksńiwaP

a

Fort Mokotów

w s ka Księ c ia T r o j d e n a Węgierska Winnic k a aksleisaJ S łup ec ka Kaliska akconaS Wyjazd Spiska

Warsaw

an immersive guidebook for independent travel...

With restaurants, gardens and a bevy of events, Koneser Square is the place to be in the spring!

Welcome to Warsaw

Located on the Vistula River at the very crossroads of Central Europe, Warsaw is the 8th most populous city in the European Union (1.9 million people) and a major cultural, political and economic hub.

The city has had a troubled history ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his royal court from Kraków, making Warsaw the new Polish capital in 1569. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by Russia for most of the 19th century, Poland was off the map for 123 years before returning in the aftermath of WWI. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, as the city developed on par with other great European capitals.

WWII brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose up against their German occupiers in August 1944, only for Soviet forces to look on as the Nazis brutally crushed the Uprising and destroyed the city in reprisal. When the fires were extinguished, 150,000 more civilians were dead and German occupation had merely been traded for Soviet oppression, as Poland was pinned under Moscow’s influence for the next four decades, during which Warsaw was rebuilt in communist fashion, earning a reputation as a charmless city of concrete.

But that was then, this is now. A compelling blend of East and West, past and future, today’s Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. Gone are the gloomy images of yesteryear as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you’re here to explore trendsetting urban culture or UNESCO treasures, world-class dining or luxury boutiques, you’ll hardly be disappointed by all the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw!

The Palace of Culture surrounded by spring flowers makes for a striking sight. Photo: Filip Kwiatkowski

How to Use This Guide

Warsaw In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting.

Over here at IYP we still believe that the best way to understand the space you’re in is with a map, and the most immersive way to explore it is on foot. As such, our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. Selfguided district tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. There are also intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport.

Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate (E-8, for example) that correlates to the city map on p.2-3. If there’s a specific venue you’re searching for, use the Venue Index in the back of the guide to quickly find it, or simply follow our informed suggestions.

Cover Story

A view of the city from Three Crosses Square, the heart of luxury shopping (and photoworthy sights) in Warsaw.

Photo: Aleksander Głowacki/ alex.snaps.colours

Warsaw IYP Online

Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital, and poland.inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover.

Here is some extra content we wish we had room for in print this issue:

Warsaw Day Trips

Read through our entire guide, done it all and still looking for more? Of course not, but the surrounding region still offers many sites worth exploring, from national parks to spa towns.

Warsaw by Bike

Warsaw is a fantastic place for biking, walking and just taking in the sunlight! And we have your go-to guide on the best spots to get out on two wheels!

Know your Uprisings!

Poland is tough and people living here have overcome an enormous amount over the centuries. Nothing is more evidence of that than the number of revolts, revolutions and resistences that have taken place over the last millennia. Here's a brief rundown:

Signs of Spring: Warsaw’s Best Parks

& Seasonal Markets

The ultimate spring vibes (and blooming trees) can be found at Skaryszewski Park.

After a sort of societal hibernation, suddenly flowers are out, beer gardens are opening up, people are gathering on plazas and sipping glasses of prosecco outside cafes. This all only means one thing: Spring is finally, thankfully, here!

For many Poles, spring is the ultimate time of year, partly because the winters are so tough, but also because the springs are just that gorgeous. So, while it’s certainly a great time to travel, but it’s an even better time to experience the blooming world of Warsaw!

Sip a coffee at a cafe

Yes, we know that Kraków is renowned for its cafe culture, but in our opinion, Warsaw is really where it’s at for coffee! All friendly rivalry aside, Warsaw really does have some great cafes. If you’re in the Old Town, check out nearby Cafe Bristol (G-5), which somehow manages to combine a chic, fancy vibe with a

comfortable and cozy atmosphere. Another in the area is To Lubię (F-3), which offers tasty pastries and cappuccinos in a medieval-esq space (fitting that it’s in the Old Town!)

Or travel a little south and go to Slodki Slony (G-10), which abounds with colorful decor and delicious pastries, cakes and more, all packed into a small cafe bursting with floral designs (bringing the spring vibes inside). For outdoor seating, look no further than Francuska 30 in Saska Kępa (p.61). Affectionately known as “the umbrella cafe” for their canopy of colorful umbrella decorations, this is also packed with tons and tons of outdoor seating, and the combo of sun, coffee and a tasty goat cheese pastry couldn’t be better.

Photo: Łukasz Kopeć

Take in some urban parks & greenery

The 2018 Travelbird Green Cities Index ranked Warsaw as the 12th greenest city in the world, while the Husqvarna Urban Green Space Index ranks Warsaw 18th out of 171 European cities; the only cities of over 1 million inhabitants that did better were Prague, Hamburg and Munich. With 51% of the city covered in greenery for an average of 134.4m2 of green space per resident, Warsaw well exceeds the likes of New York City (19m2) or Paris (a pathetic 9.8m2), despite the two metropolises having iconic urban parks. Though they may not be as famous, Warsaw is home to its share of iconic parks as well, so let’s take a look at the best places in the capital to celebrate spring, and do some sightseeing while we’re at it.

Łazienki Park

Where else would we start? Łazienki (p.54) is not only Warsaw’s most famous park, but also its largest at 76ha, and right in the city centre. This glorious green space is not only home to peacocks and adorable red squirrels, but is also packed with 18th century palaces, monuments and royal art collections. In fact, the lush, hilly premises are a bit of an architectural scavenger hunt where you can find Warsaw’s oldest theatre, a Greek temple, Egyptian temple, Chinese Garden, and much more. Beginning in spring, locals flock to Łazienki with blankets and picnic baskets and in May be sure to hear free open-air piano concerts under the park’s famous Chopin monument every Sunday at 12:00.

Even if you don't manage to make it to the piano concerts, there are tons of other great attractions at this park, from little places to feed the ducks, to semiregular performance art pieces. Well worth a visit!

Saxon Garden

Located just off the Royal Route (p.44), this historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to everyone in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque Park in the French-style with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Like Łazienki, the park also included several other palaces and pavilions, all of which were sadly obliterated by the Nazis during WWII and never rebuilt. Despite this absence, Saxon Garden today is one of Warsaw’s best urban retreats, offering an antidote to the capital’s urban din, plenty of shade, lots of benches and more than a few points of interest.

Foremost among the latter is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier - the only surviving remnant of Saxon Palace and once part of its lower colonnade. Here the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is kept lit and guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year.

More impressive (in our opinion) is the large fountain located just behind the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi, this fountain is and was the centrepiece of the gardens, the alleys of which are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees (many of which survived the war) and neoclassical sculptures. QF-6.

Skaryszewski Park

Time for a ride across the river, to a place few tourists tend to tread. Shame that, as Skaryszewski Park (p.62) was ranked by self-proclaimed park experts Briggs & Stratton as Poland’s most beautiful urban park in 2009; in fact, it placed third on the entire continent. We’ll defer to their expertise, as it is a fine park indeed, full of wide tree-lined alleys, man-made hills, handsome statuary, landscaped flowerbeds, charming bridges, waterfalls and picturesque lakes where you can rent kayaks and pedalboats. The right bank’s largest green space at 58ha, there may not be any palaces, but it does boast its own amphitheatre and is absolutely loaded with monuments, most notably a bust of famous pianist, patriot and politician Ignacy Jan Paderewski at the park’s entrance. Other monuments include a memorial to the Polish victims of the September 11 attacks, and another commemorating British pilots whose B-24 Liberator was shot down here in August 1944 while delivering supplies to the Polish resistance during the Warsaw Uprising.

If you’re not that keen on monuments, that’s fine, too, as this park is known as the chiller cousin of Łazienki, meaning you will find many people lying in the grass, reading books, having picnics, sipping some wine or coffee and enjoying the sunlight here. Located next to the popular district of Saska Kępa, the southwest corner of the park leads right to the neighbourhood’s trendy high street, ul. Francuska (p.62), where you’ll find plenty of hip cafes and restaurants, as well as some of the best ice cream in the city. Fans of modernist architecture and charming villas are encouraged to explore this affluent but artsy area.

Outdoor Food Fairs

The arrival of warmer weather is also the signal for Warsaw’s outstanding open-air food markets to resume operations. An increasingly popular urban trend, these hip gastro markets are as much about socialising as they are about shopping for local food products or filling your belly, and definitely worth checking out if you’re brave enough to go beyond the centre of town. If you’re here ahead of the season or the weather’s rubbish, you can (and should) always check out one of the city’s plentiful indoor food halls as well (p.94). For the indoor spaces with outdoor vibes, we recommend Elektrownia Powiśle, which has a ton of tasty food stalls and - in the warm months - a little fountain outside that kids can play in! Read more about that one on p.51. Now, on to the outdoors:

Breakfast Market

They say it’s the most important meal of the day, but in Warsaw it’s also a cultural experience. We’re talking about the Breakfast Market (Targ Śniadaniowy, p.83), which offers foodies a range of delicious day starters from dozens of local food producers, farms, restaurants and catering companies. Taking place in neighbourhood parks, mingle with locals, explore new parts of town and get your grub on by creating a picnic spread from the fresh foods on sale here, or choose from an array of ready-to-eat meals from local producers as well.

A highly social event, the Breakfast Market caters to families by organising events for kids and other attractions. Best of all, you don’t have to get there early. Occurring on weekends beginning from April 13th from 9:00-16:00 you’ll find the Breakfast Market near Plac Inwalidów (corner of Al. Wojska Polskiego and ul. Śmiała) in the leafy Żoliborz area; on Sundays from 10:00-17:00, the Market moves to the park area of Skwer AK Granat in Mokotów.Qwww. targsniadaniowy.pl

Nocny Market

If family-friendly isn’t your vibe, Warsaw’s legendary Nocny Market (Night Market) may be more to your taste. Occupying an abandoned railway platform, Nocny Market aims for the atmosphere of a Beijing street market and the vibe of a Berlin club to create a cult Warsaw institution. The largest street food market in PL, this is a full-on feast for the senses where you’re guided by colourful neon lights, tantalising smells assault your nose as you wander from stall to stall, live bands and DJs set the mood, and intoxicating drinks pour forth from the fully stocked bars. If you really want an experience you can’t forget you can even get a tattoo here.

With a huge diversity of culinary offerings from around the world, this is definitely one of Warsaw’s coolest places to eat, drink and chill when the weather’s warm. Try some delightful Polish food, some tasty pizza or some other unique street food you can't find elsewhere in the city! Wash it all down with a beer at one of the many, many outdoor seats (which can accommodate whole groups of friends).

Though the opening date hasn’t been announced yet, it typically starts in early May. To get there take a tram to ‘Pl. Zawiszy’ and walk towards ‘Warszawa Główna’ train station. Alternatively, take the Metro to ‘Rondo Daszyńskiego’ and walk the short distance. Use warsaw.jakdojade.pl for live transit connections.

QC-9, ul. Towarowa 3, fb.com/nocnymarket

The breakfast market in Warsaw is the ultimate outdoor dining experience.

The night market is the place to be in the spring and summer

Specjały Regionalne

A Traditional Polish Kitchen

Spring has officially come to Warsaw, bringing with it budding trees, outdoor dining, sunlight, and warm city walks. But there’s another thing that spring brings: new, fresh local ingredients. And few people know that better than the owner and managers of Specjały Regionalne, one of the best locations for authentic Polish food in the capital city.

The restaurant, which has been at Nowy Świat for 15 years, is run by Arkadiusz Szymczak, who makes sure to specialize in locally sourced ingredients. His kabanosy is made with goose meat, his handmade pierogi with wild mushrooms, his cheese sourced from organic farms and local suppliers around the country.

In short, it’s the real deal. There are many reasons to visit the delightful restaurant this season, but among them is the chance to try – and learn about –authentic, traditional Polish food.

So where do you start? We have the go-to guide on what to try when you get there.

Start with Delectable, Authentic, Polish Cheese

One of the biggest reasons to visit Specjały Regionalne this season is for their cheese offerings. In fact, spring is known as “cheese season” at the

restaurant because it’s associated with the start of animals grazing in lush country meadows around Poland again, following six months of autumn and winter.

In a nutshell, that means that starting in May, Specjały Regionalne’s restaurant on Nowy Świat 44 and restaurants will begin offering several famous Polish cheeses, starting with Oscypek from Podhale, which lies in the Tatra Mountains in southern Poland. This sheep’s cheese is smoky and salty and made by shepherds in the mountains, meaning it’s a must-try for anyone looking for an authentic Polish dining experience.

Another must-try that will be offered in May is Bundz, a sheep milk cheese also from the mountain region of Poland. Though the beginning of the cheese-making process for Bundz is similar to that of Oscypek, the end result is very different. Whereas the former is smoky and salty, Bundz tastes mild and fresh, almost like cottage cheese.

Polish charcuterie boards are a specialty at Specjały Regionalne

Finally, the third of the popular Polish-cheese trifecta is Redykołka, which is also produced in the Podhale region. Affectionally known as the “younger sister” of Oscypek, it has a similar slightly salty, smoky and spicy taste, with an elastic inside.

Of course, it wouldn’t be Specjały Regionalne if they stopped there. This restaurant also offers Koryciński cheese, which has roots in Switzerland – in short, Swiss mercenaries fighting in Polish troops in the 17th century taught the locals this specific method of cheese-making. The hard cheese is both rich and buttery with a slight tang to it. Truly a must-try for visitors, especially since it was added to the list of “Traditional Food Products” by the Ministry of Agriculture in 2005!

When you’re visiting Specjały Regionalne for your cheese-ventures, be sure to try even more than just the classics. There’s Greater Poland fried cheese, goat cheeses from organic farms in Warmia and Mazury, and cottage cheese from organic farms in the Tuchola Forest.

A Variety of Traditional Polish Cuisine

Putting aside cheese for a moment (though we know that’s hard to do!) there are other delicious reasons to stop by Specjały Regionalne this season.

Namely, you can get some of the most authentic Polish food in the entire city – something that the owner and manager say harkens back to the cooking their mothers and grandmothers have been doing for centuries.

For starters, you can’t go wrong with beef tartare, a traditional Polish dish with beef tenderloin, a gooey egg yolk, bread and pickled vegetables. Or try

herring in linseed oil with onion and boiled potatoes. Traditionally eaten at Christmastime, herring is beloved by Poles year-round and it’s a must when trying authentic Polish food.

Moving on to soups, there are several that Poles consider staples (and eat year-round, even in the hot months!) One of these is Żurek, a white, sour soup with a boiled egg and white sausage, which is often served in a bread bowl. Though it’s traditionally eaten at Easter, this soup can also be enjoyed year-round. This is a good one to try for newbies to Polish cuisine, because you get a great idea of the importance of sour and fermented flavors in Polish food.

For the main dish, there are so many good options to choose from, but we recommend Specjały Regionalne’s selection of three traditional grilled sausages (at least for your first trip). Kiełbasa is, of course, wildly popular in Poland and commonly enjoyed seared on a stove—or over a campfire during warmer months—but there are a variety of types. Some are spicier, others smokier. Some use pork or beef, others use turkey or lamb. That’s why the three-sausage idea at Specjały Regionalne is so popular – it gives anyone eager to try Polish cuisine a chance to get a better idea (and taste) of some of the country’s most popular varieties of sausage!

Finally, when it comes to food, you would be making a mistake if you don’t try one of the restaurant’s pierogi types. The pierogi here are made by hand and the fillings, (duck, spinach, wild mushrooms) all come from farms around Poland.

More than Dine-In

One of the best things about Specjały Regionalne is that the beloved restaurant on Nowy Świat 44 is not the only one! In fact, after 15 years of operation, Arkadiusz has opened multiple stores and restaurants selling fresh, regional Polish products available for both dine-in and to-go all over the city. Grab some mouth-watering kiełbasa, fresh and tasty pierogi, and much more at one of their many shops: Gagarina 4 (Mokotów), ul. Dąbrowskiego 3 (Mokotów), ul. Płochocińska 195 (Białołęka), a deli and shop at ul. Felińskiego 52 (Żoliborz). Shops at Potocka 2A, ul.Zawiszy 16 and ul. Jagiellońska 56

Specjały Regionalne

QG-7, ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. (+48) 662 25 42 15, www. specjalyregionalne.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:0023:00. €€. X­T­S­6 Oscypek cheese is a classic in Polish cuisine.

FACTORY Outlets

Everything a Shopper Could Want

There was a time when people associated both premium and casual shopping in Europe with places like Paris, Rome, and London.

But the times are a-changing and Warsaw is quickly becoming one of the go-to European cities for shopping everything from glistening premium watches and chic heels to athleisure, casual shirts and everything in-between.

And we largely have the two FACTORY outlets— FACTORY Ursus and FACTORY Annopol —to thank for Warsaw’s rising status as a European retail hub. Both spots, which have been awarded the prestigious Superbrands recognition, are located within a quick ride from the center of the city, meaning you can shop-till-you-drop and be back in time for dinner. (Check out more on how to get there below).

But what’s more remarkable than the desirable locations, is what lays beyond the doors of these retail giants. So let’s take a peek inside…

Everything a Customer Could Want

First things first: these are prices you genuinely cannot beat at 30-70% off everything, along with additional discounts on Super Thursdays. So keep that in mind as you step under the iconic red FACTORY sign, through the sleek glass doors and into the roomy center of the outlet mall. The spaces feature sunny skylights, contemporary décor, plants and of course, retail. There, you’ll find store after store after store of premium, casual, and overall, quality brands at superdiscount prices.

Sleek, modern and accessible, FACTORY outlet Annopol is a retail dream.

In both Ursus and Annopol, in fact, you’ll find over 200 outlet stores spread out across over 400 square meters of space. Fashion offerings include Boss, Joop! Pinko, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Lacoste, Guess, Marc O’Polo, Desigual, and Gant and Boxeur Des Rues, among others. Jeans are a popular buy here, too, with stores like Levi’s, Lee, Wrangler, Big Star, Pepe Jeans, Mustang and Cross Jeans

If it’s footwear you’re after – be it casual for walking in the park or gorgeous boots and shoes for the office – there’s plenty on offer, as well! Ecco, Geox, Vans, Clarks, Crocs, Salomon, Sketchers and Kazar, Adidas, Nike, Puma, Reebok, New Balance, Asics, and Venezia can all be found in this retail giant.

For those who are more interested in accessories, find beautiful leather bags at Wittchen, elegant watches at Time Trend, sophisticated gold jewelry at Guess Accessories, and much more.

And of course, because it’s springtime, it’s the season for gearing up for summer and warm, outdoor activities – and that’s all at the FACTORY outlets, too: Rossignol, Adventure Sports, Helly Hansen, Trespass, Regatta, Salewa, Jack Wolfskin, and Mountain Warehouse.

Note: it’s a good idea to check the website for brands before you go because the offerings can differ at Ursus and Annopol.

A Place to Spend the Day

Phew – that’s a lot (and it doesn’t even graze the surface of what these stores have to offer in the way of retail)!

But apart from the retail offerings, there is tons to be said about the actual experience of shopping here, as well. Both FACTORY outlets in Warsaw are beloved city-wide for their comfortable interiors, which are adapted to fit everyone from single shoppers, to families, to people with mobility restrictions.

Glass display cases line the space, meaning you can truly embrace the concept of window shopping. Not only that, but remember how we said you can shop-till-you-drop? We meant that literally! There are comfy sofas throughout the space (no hard wooden mall benches, here) with charging points and WiFi for when you simply need a rest.

Young families will be happy to find modern playgrounds along with rooms for feeding and taking care of the littlest children. Plus, widened parking spaces have been installed outside specifically for families with children and prams.

Shoppers with and without children will also delight in the cafes and restaurants that line the space. Stop for a bite of mouthwatering Lebanese food at the restaurant staple, Sphinx, or kick off the whole day with an authentic espresso at So Coffee (or end it with an ice cream at the same spot). Even grab some tasty gummies at a Haribo store or delectable chocolates at Lindt! You could spend the entire day roaming, shopping and eating here!

Getting There Is a Breeze

It's so easy to get there! In fact, FACTORY Annopol is the only outlet in the country that you can get to by a quick metro ride. To get to FACTORY Annopol, hop on the M2 toward Bródno and get off at the Bróno station. Then, it’s just a quick 10-minute walk up Rembielińska Street. To get to FACTORY Ursus, the journey is equally easy. There are plenty of trains and buses that can get you almost up to the doors of the outlet. We recommend taking the R3 train from Warsaw Central station and getting off at Warsaw Ursus Północny. From there, it’s just a short, 6-minute walk south.

FACTORY Annopol

Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www.annopol.factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:0020:00*. 6

FACTORY Ursus

QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www.ursus.factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:0020:00*. 6

The interior of FACTORY outlet Ursus is bright and full of variety!

Traditional Polish Dishes

Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling.

Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego!

Bigos

Barszcz

A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

Golonka

Gołąbki

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman.

Pierogi

Kotlet Schabowy

Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.

Żurek

Placki Ziemniaczane

These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl.

Drink Like a Local

The Italians have wine, the Spaniards have wine. The French…. also wine. But what does Poland do best when it comes to alcohol? Vodka and beer.

These are the two most popular alcoholic beverages in Poland, and that means that brewers and distillers alike have spent a lot of time honing their crafts. Here’s a rundown of the history of these two popular drinks:

The Long History of Vodka

The name “vodka” (an anglicised version of the Polish “wódka” pronounced “v-ood-kah”) means quite literally “little water.” The origins of the drink date back to the 8th century, when distillation was discovered and the practice began to sweep across Europe. When it comes to vodka itself, the first written record of the drink came out in 1405 in Poland.

Originally, it was used as medicine: it helped treat wounds, numb pain, make perfume. But the consumption of vodka became more popular in the 15th and 16th centuries as it became industrialized across the country, with distilleries opening in Kraków, Gdańsk and Poznań (in fact, the popular Żubrówka vodka dates back to this century).

The popularization of vodka continued at a quick clip in Poland, hitting some bumps along the way

(production slowed during the wars at the beginning of the 20th century). Now, Poland is one of the top three producers of vodka in the world, and produced nearly 100 million liters in 2016 alone.

Vodka Traditions

Poles are proud of their vodka and as a result, there are many traditions surrounding the drink. You may not run into all of them when you visit, but here’s a run-down just in case:

Na zdrowie – say this as you clink glasses and make sure to look your drinking partner in the eye or you’ll have years (some say 7, some say 5) of bad luck.

Christmas vodka – drinking a shot of vodka (sipping, not tossing it back) with some good pickled fish (Śledz) is a classic Christmas tradition. In fact, pickled fish and vodka commonly go together at any time of year.

Wedding shots – After the ceremony, the bride and groom will each get a shot of vodka and they’re supposed to down the shot, toss the glasses behind their backs, and break them. The broken glasses signify good luck in the marriage.

Polish vodka bottles at the Vodka Museum.

Vodka Types

There are many good Polish vodkas but also some classics:

Żubrówka – this is a Polish vodka from the 16th century that is just a classic staple. One popular kind has a sprig of bison grass inside, which makes the drink a little bright and earthy.

Goldwasser – bet you didn’t know this was Polish! This is a classic from the Gdańsk area, and you’ll know it because it has gold flakes floating inside and a slightly cinnamon-y taste.

Chopin – This is just a good vodka. It’s not too sharp, well balanced and it goes great with everything.

Luksusowa – Finally, the people’s vodka. This is good and affordable. This is what people buy to drink with friends on an unassuming Friday night.

Where to get it:

The better question is where not to get vodka in Warsaw? The Polish Vodka Museum (p.61) and the Vodka Museum (p.70) will each take you on a tour through the history of vodka and give you a chance to try some! Klar (G-5) is known for their unique vodka flavors, which are constantly changing as they find new ways to infuse vodka with berries, herbs and spices! Pijalnia wodki i piwa is a chain with plenty of vodka types to sample and enjoy.

Craft Beer Becomes Big

Poland also has a long history with beer that dates back to the middle ages. But it wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that beer became mass produced on an industrial scale. The Tychy Brewery, which produces the extremely popular beer Tyskie, has been around since the 17th century.

The initial styles beloved by Poles were porters (dark beers) and then pale ales (much lighter beers) swiftly began to take over. Like vodka, beer production hit some bumps in the early 20th century but picked up again in the late century.

And that brings us to today – almost. While many of those lager-style beers have reigned in popularity for decades, the past 10 years have seen smaller breweries start getting in on the beer game. Many home brewing operations started making craft beer, and by making smaller batches than

industrial brewers, they were able to focus more on experimenting with non-traditional ingredients and techniques, leading to more interesting flavors.

Craft Beer Types:

Pinta – around since 2010, this brewery is one of the most popular craft breweries in all of Poland, and regularly makes hazy IPAs, sour beers, pale ales, pilsners – the works!

Funky Fluid – a Warsaw-based brewery, this is another type of craft beer that’s been gaining more and more popularity over the years for its bold flavors of hoppy, wild and sour beers (and more!)

Trzech Kumpli – brewing since the start of the craft beer craze in about 2014, this brewery makes a lot of dark beers (smoked porters, Irish stouts) as well as light lagers and pilsners.

Piwne Podziemie – one of the smaller craft breweries, but that means they can really focus on their flavorand they deliver! For the beer snobs who have tried every type, this is the beer to grab.

Where to get it:

Well of course you can buy the large-scale, industrial beers (Tyskie, Lech, Żywiec) pretty much anywhere. But for craft beers, you have to know where to go. Pinta has a bar specializing in their beers on Chimelnia Street. Other bars like Jabeerwocky (G-8), Kufle i Kapsle (p. 99), will also offer great craft beers, Bierhalle (p.84), and Browary Warszawskie (p.28) are very popular, too. Plus, don’t miss the beer festivals held in the spring and fall in Warsaw!

Craft Beer Tasting Boards! Photo: Meritt Thomas on Unsplash.com

Transport

Between trams, buses, trains and the metro, you can get anywhere in the city.

Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is fast, efficient and affordable; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing and frustrating. As such, for visitors the city centre is best navigated by bike, scooter, public transport or taxi/ride share - all of which are explained here. For detailed info about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website.

Public Transport

Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,900 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:00-23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.

Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only.

A standard single fare costs 4.40zł for 75min, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket

that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find wall dispensers next to the gates and hang on to the ticket for multiple rides). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket).

Once you’re through the electronic gates of the metro, you’re ready to ride. For buses and trams, however, there’s one extra step - validating your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes on trams and buses. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl

Car & Bike Share

Skutery Centrum

Motor Scooter Rental

Renting a scooter (the motorbike kind, think Vespa) is certainly a more fun, stylish and convenient option than the bus, tram or searching for car parking. Skutery Centrum is located just minutes from the train station and offer a large selection of sporty and stylish rides.QG-8, ul. Żurawia 32/34, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 99 77 60, www.skutery-centrum.pl. Open 07:30-19:30.

Traficar Car Share

Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don't have to pay for gas! Everything is done through their easy-to-use app. In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same. You can rent a vehicle for as long as you want at only 4.99 zł to start and then 1.99 zł per kilometer. Or for 24 hours for only 69 zł a day and then 1.09 zł per kilometer. Qwww.traficar.pl

WawaBus

WawaBus offers a private transportation service to bring you to and from the airport, your hotel, your dinner reservation... well, pretty much wherever you need to go in Warsaw! Not only that, but the sleek, modern cars and well-experienced drivers ensure that your trips will be as hassle-free, comfortable and enjoyable as possible! In addition to being prompt and experienced, the drivers each know at least one foreign language. Plus, the service is offered 24/7 so you can relax when it comes to getting to that 6 a.m. flight.QG-8, ul. Dziatwy 14C/12, tel. (+48) 515 00 10 01, https://wawabus.pl/en/. Open 24/7.

Warsaw’s metro is unmatched.

David Crespo/Canva

Warsaw Sightseeing

When it comes to Sightseeing, visitors should be sure to experience the dynamic synergy of Warsaw as a modern metropolis that still nurtures its cultural spirit and traditions. To this end, our guide details the capital’s most important districts, walking you through not only the antiquated Old Town (p.36), regal Royal Route (p.44) and the imperial beauty of Łazienki (p.54) and Wilanów (p.58), but also around the soaring, frenetic City Centre (p.26), happening Powiśle (p.50) and scruffy Praga (p.60). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights.

Spring is the best time to see all the city has to offer. Photo: itsmejust/istockphoto

9 Essential Sights

1 Plac Zamkowy

More of a triangle than a square, and home to the Royal Castle, this popular plac is where modern Warsaw meets the Old Town.QSee p.37

2 Old Town Square

A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII.QSee p.41.

3 Vistula Boulevards

Warsaw’s left-bank boulevards are a favourite haunt of the locals - go and see why - walk, ride, or just chill on the riverside steps. Wow.QSee p.51

4 Łazienki Park

Full of incredible art and architecture this massive park and palace complex offers spectacular opportunities for sightseeing or simply relaxing.QSee p.54

9 Palace of Culture & Science

Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, this 237-metre-high structure was Warsaw’s tallest building until 2021, and takes its inspiration from the capitalist worldnamely the Empire State Building. Working around the clock, it took over 5,000 workers - ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village - just three years to finish the Palace in 1955 With 3,288 rooms inside, the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just Communist Party headquarters but also as ‘The People’s Castle.’ Now an iconic part of Warsaw’s landscape, the Palace is celebrated by some, while for others it merely represents Russian hegemony.

At present the building hosts several theatres, a cinema, numerous bars, restaurants and cafes, and a tourist info office, as well as the National Museum of Technology and the Museum of Evolution

Tours of the interiors are offered hourly in Polish between 10:00 and 15:00, and in English at 16:00. Book tickets online in advance, or skip the tour and head straight to the outdoor viewing terrace on the 30th floor (via elevator) for thrilling panoramic views; tickets available online.

QE-8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 09:00-18:00. Viewing terrace open 10:00-20:00; terrace admission 25/20zł. U

5 Wilanów Palace

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17thcentury royal palace 10km to the south.QSee p.58

6 POLIN Museum

1000 years of Jewish history in Poland is chronicled in this excellent museum where the Jewish Ghetto stood during WWII.QSee p.73.

7 Art Box Experience

An immersive 360° art experience teeming with vibrant, swirling colors and breathtaking moving images -- the perfect way to enjoy art! !QSee p. 68

8 Warsaw Rising Museum

Chronicling the heroism and tragedy of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this modern museum packed with multimedia displays is one of PL’s best.QSee p.75

The iconic Palace of Culture & Science is controversial amongst locals, due to its association with Poland’s communist era.

Warsaw ‘City Centre’

Over the last 20 years, Warsaw’s skyline has burst forth with new buildings

Known locally as ‘Śródmieście,’ Warsaw’s City Centre isn’t exactly a district (it comprises several, actually), but more of a catch-all term for the downtown area. Definitions vary, but generally, you know it when you’re in it - wide streets, monumental buildings, billboards, busy crosswalks and little to stand in the way of progress. It’s the modern, fast-paced, forwardlooking part of the city radiating out from the Palace of Culture & Science, and it’s here that you’ll find the majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants and bars, but also government buildings, skyscrapers and places of commerce - the dynamic heart of the contemporary capital.

In terms of tourism, it’s not exactly inviting, so why start here? Well, chances are you’re staying in the City Centre and probably there right now, so let’s get familiar with what’s around before running off to the Old Town (p.36). Despite not being particularly cosy or nostalgic, there are still many points of interest downtown, and nowhere more conveys the modern character of the Polish capital.

and unique architecture.

Places to Explore

1 Plac Piłsudskiego

Used over the centuries for military parades and national celebrations, this is Warsaw’s largest square Named after legendary inter-war Polish leader, Józef Piłsudski; you’ll find a statue of the Marshal guarding his naming rights with a stern gaze nearby. The space has undergone quite a few rebrandings thanks to the changing political landscape, including a stint as ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ under Nazi occupation. During the era of Partitions, the huge orthodox St. Nevsky Cathedral was built here. Considered a symbol of Russian oppression, it was razed after Poland regained its independence. It was here that in 1979, Polish Pope John Paul II gave an open-air holy mass to 500,000 people, instilling hope in the struggle against the repressive communist system. In 2018, two new monuments were added - both relating to the tragic and highly politicised Smoleńsk Air Disaster in which a plane carrying 96 members of a Polish government delegation crashed in the Russian forest in 2010; everyone on board perished, including President Lech Kaczyński, whose monument here gazes upon that of the other victims.

At the western end of the square you’ll find the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the broken colonnades of Saxon Palace - the grand structure this square stood in front of until its destruction during WWII. Here, the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year.QF-6, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

2 Saxon Garden

Plac Piłsudskiego’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier almost serves as an entrance gate into Saski Park, aka Saxon Garden. This historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to all in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque garden with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Despite its demise during WWI, Saxon Garden still offers several historical points of interest, in addition to lots of benches, plenty of shade and a much-needed escape from the urban din of the capital. The centrepiece of the gardens is a large fountain created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi. The alleyways running out from it are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees and neoclassical sculptures. In the northwestern part of the park, you’ll find the Romanesque Water Tower from 1825 - also designed by Marconi, and modelled on the famous Temple of Vesta in Tivoli. Other curiosities include a sundial from 1863, a memorial honouring Varsovians killed during WWII, and a statue of Stefan Starzyński - the city’s mayor at the outbreak of WWII, who later to became a victim of Dachau concentration camp. It’s also worth noting the beautiful Renaissance palace on the southern side of the park, which holds Zachęta - Warsaw’s premier space for contemporary art (p.71).QF-6, Between ul. Marszałkowska and Plac Piłsudskiego, MŚwiętokrzyska.

3 Browary Warszawskie

Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district, densely packed with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars, bakeries and shops. Mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, postindustrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within the city’ is Food Hall Browary - 13 contemporary gastro concepts in the former cellars. The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (19 different types!) for local hopheads, while other highlights include a sports bar part-owned by Robert Lewandowski (Nine’s). The food is delicious and so is the atmosphere -- it's worth coming here for a date night, or a friend gathering or even just a simple pint after work. There's always something brewing at Browary, so check online for events.QC-7, ul. Grzybowska 60, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.browarywarszawskie. com.pl

Marconi’s fountain at the centre of Saxon Garden.

4 Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire

One of Warsaw’s newest public spaces, European Square was created by Wirtz International Landscape Architecture as part of the impressive Warsaw Spire - Poland’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper at 220m. Both the square and the office building have won awards for their design. This small square has a lot of features: trees, benches, fountains, reflecting pools, two large murals, an amphitheatre, a unique Art Walk gallery where changing exhibits are displayed, and an iconic 3D Instagram-baiting installation that says ‘Kocham Warszawę’ (I Love Warsaw). Of course there are cafes, bars and food options as well, making this a very unique and worthwhile place to hang out in Warsaw’s business district.QCDaszyńskiego.

5 Fabryka Norblina

This former industrial site covering an area of near Rondo Daszyńskiego was once one of the largest enterprises in the Kingdom of Poland, with a long, complex history that dates back to the 1840s. The Norblin, Buch Brothers and T. Werner Factory (to give its full name) produced a wide range of metal, tin and silver-plated goods - sugar bowls, teapots, cutlery, vases, dishes and more - ranging from the utilitarian to true works of art. Until recently a neglected pearl of post-industrial architecture, massive investment has turned the area into a lively modern urban centre of culture, entertainment, gastronomy and commerce. Now, find over 24,000m of total commercial space open to the public. Visitors will find an impressive museum covering the site’s industrial history, the BioBazar eco (organic) food market and bistro, the KinoGram boutique cinema, ArtBox Experience, a fitness centre, shops, cafes and more - including a bevy of events.

Browary Warszawskie’s Food Hall does outdoor dining in style.

Brand new attraction for children in Warsaw!

"This place will take children on a journey to a small planet of great explorers. A world of limitless imagination, cosmic adventures and sporting excitement."

Anna Lewandowska - IG @annalewandowska

To top it all off, a trendy indoor Food Town lives at the heart of the space, with 23 gastronomy concepts from around the globe, and 5 bars to add to the service! Additionally, Hala Gimlet, is an everyday live music space, featuring bands, DJs and jazz sessions. This is the ideal spot for a day-to-night date, as there is plenty going on and lots of shopping, eating and drinking to be had! But it's not just a place to go out on the town. Young families will also find a lot of options here, starting with Smart Kids Planet (p.76), an educational play center for young children to partake in the fun with highly interactive games, activities and more! . This truly is the astounding cutting edge of Warsaw’s urban culture, so check it out.QC/D-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.fabrykanorblina.pl T­E­6

6 Plac Grzybowski

This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church. From 1941 it was inside the Warsaw Ghetto and Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to escape. Rebuilt after the war, the entire square has

been recently renovated and today features dozens of benches, neatly landscaped grassy areas and even a pond with a waterfall. Very well lit, it’s a wonderful place to relax or enjoy the many bars and cafes that surround it, day or night.

Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. It is here in the former heart of the Jewish Warsaw (p.72) that the Singer Jewish Culture Festival takes place each year in late August/early September. The Nożyk Synagogue - the city’s only synagogue to survive the war and still in use today - can also be found close by at ul. Twarda 6.QE-7, MŚwiętokrzyska.

7 Złote Tarasy

There is plenty of great shopping to be had in and around Warsaw, and Złote Tarasy, seated next to the central train station, is no exception with great stores like Sephora, Van Graaf and Zara.

But many people actually admire the complex for its aesthetic style and ultra modern architecture. Even if you’re not in the mood to shop, it’s a good idea to check out the space, which has a 10,000m glass dome fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and stop snow from building up. The dome itself is reminiscent of waves, water, balloons, bubbles -- basically any form without a straight edge. The 1.5 billion zł project was designed by a California-based firm and construction began in 2002. After it was completed in 2004, the design - sleek, contemporary, eye-catching - won the firm an award by a famous London-based architecture magazine. It’s worth stepping inside to see the multi-level beloved behemouth in person! QE-8, ul. Złota 59, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00.

Commerce, Catholicism, Judaism and cafe culture intersect at Plac Grzybowski

Hala Koszyki (next page) is as industrial-chic as they come!

8 Pasaż Wiecha and the Eastern Wall

Pasaż Wiecha runs parallel to ul. Marszałkowska in the shadow of departments stores, known as the ‘Eastern Wall.’

The area has undergone a lot of lives and style inspirations over the last century. Initially, the buzzword for architects in the region was Socialist Realism, a severe style following strict guidelines from a Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed all that and architects looked to the west for inspiration. This led to all manner of brutalist monstrosities rising from the ruins left after WWII. One was this massive wall of buildings, which is now among the oldest department store/ retail complexes in Poland. Designed by architect Zbigniew Karpiński and completed in 1969, the buildings were hailed a work of genius, but soon fell into neglect.

Eventually new life was breathed into the complex. Now, find shining glass frontages added to the department stores, and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end.

Although once entirely dodgy, Pasaż Wiecha - the long space behind the ‘Eastern Wall’ - is today lined with shops and restaurant gardens on both sides, making it an interesting area to explore. It also increasingly plays host to events like food fairs. Ironically, the centrepiece of the city’s big 1960s redevelopment plan is now a focal point in the ‘Nowe Centrum Warszawy’ plan, which will see this immediate area redeveloped once again in the near future. It’s all part of a larger plan to support a lively pedestrian corridor through the city centre from here to ul. Nowy Świat (p.49) via ul. Chmielna. Start a wander east down the latter from here to see how far the city has progressed so far.QF-7/8, MCentrum.

9 Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna

Warsaw’s newest public square opened in July 2022 at the intersection of Bracka, Krucza, Zgody, Szpitalna and Chmielna Streets - hence the name, ‘Five Corner Square.’ Although the new design still features a lot of concrete, 22 maple trees have been added to the space, as well as numerous benches with almost 40 sitting places. Most significantly, the entire area has been opened up and given over to pedestrians, which is a huge improvement over the urban tangle that previously prevailed here. Plac Pięciu Rogów is basically the centrepiece of redevelopment works throughout this area which are transforming ul. Chmielna into a high street for pedestrians

A great area for exploration: you’ll plenty of cafes, restaurants, bars and intriguing places for relaxing and refuelling.

QG-7/8, MCentrum, www.plac5rogow.pl

Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing

10 Plac Zbawiciela

In the aftermath of WWII, this star-shaped roundabout became dominated by PRL-era buildings from the 1950s, but still harbours a couple of gems. The first is the conspicuous Church of the Holiest Saviour, from which the square takes its name (Saviour Square). Built in neo-Renaissance style in the 1920s, that it stands is a marvel, considering it was dynamited by the Nazis during WWII and then tagged for demolition by the communists.

The other pre-war building here is the handsome Jasieńczyk-Jabłoński tenement (Mokotowska 12), erected in 1910. Upon completion, it was not only one of the most modern, but also the tallest residential building in Warsaw (38 m).

From 2012–2015, Julita Wójcik’s “Rainbow” art installation notably soared over Plac Zbawiciela. A 9m-high 26m-wide rainbow made of plastic flowers, the piece proved too controversial for PL’s anti-LGBT factions, who repeatedly lit it on fire until it was removed. Though there have been plans to replace it with a fireproof version, the current political climate doesn’t seem conducive to its return. That aside, Saviour Square today is quite the progressive meeting place for students, artists and activists who favour the hip bars here like Plan B (Al. Wyzwolenia 18) and Charlotte (Al. Wyzwolenia 18/2U).QG-10, MPolitechnika.

11 Warsaw University of Technology

Known locally as Politechnika Warszawska, this is one of the largest universities of technology in Central Europe, with over 36,000 students. The historic main building is a wonder of neo-baroque architecture designed at the turn of the 19th century. Stout, sturdy and with unique rounded corners, the two-story building survived WWII bombing and was quickly retouched after the war. Its facade features an array of architectural embellishments: sculptures, bas-reliefs, frescoes and sgraffito. If you think the exterior is impressive, head inside to see the pentagonal cloister courtyard with four stories of arcades, staircase and beautiful stained-glass roof. QF-10, Plac Politechniki 1, MPolitechnika. Open 08:00-18:00.

12 Hala Koszyki

If you're wondering where all the students are, this might be the answer. This is one of Warsaw's handful of marvelous indoor market halls, with food, shopping, art and more! And this is definitely one to check out because it's photogenic, with a phenomenal ground-floor food hall, with everything form dim sum to gelato, burgers, fries and more! There are plenty of boutique shops and a lot of great events held here. This is urban revitalisation at its most impressive and photogenic. See more on p.95 QF-10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www. koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00.

Inside the Warsaw University of Technology.

& Viewpoints S k y s c r a p e r s

Warsaw has plainly stated its ambition to have more skyscrapers than any other city in Europe. The city currently has 25 buildings over 100m high, with another 10 approved for construction, and enough pending approval to potentially bring the total up to 65 in the coming years. Beloved by locals and symbolic of the city’s aspiration to be the most modern capital in Europe, here are some of the most notable towers in town.

Varso: This neomodern office complex is the tallest building in the EU at 310m (though the last 80m is a spire). An observation deck at 230m is being planned for the near future. QE-8.

Palace of Culture & Science: Buy a ticket, then head up to the 30th floor of Warsaw’s oldest and second tallest skyscraper (237m) for amazing panoramic views from an actual open-air terrace More on p.25 QE-9.

Warsaw UNIT: Warsaw’s 5th tallest tower (202m) was completed in 2021. Included is the wild new adrenaline attraction Skyfall Warsaw - a vertigo-inducing glass box that dangles outside the building (available to companies and special events)QC-8.

Złota 44: Designed by Daniel Libeskind, this luxury residential tower is one of Wawa’s most beautiful and distinctive skyscrapers, and its 7th tallest (192m).QE-8.

InterContinental Hotel: At 165m, Warsaw’s InterContinental Hotel is one of the tallest 5-star hotels in the world, and features the highest swimming pool in Europe at 150m. Open to non-guests, go have a swim in the clouds.QE-8.

Centrum LIM/The Marriott: The Marriott’s Panorama Sky Bar on the 40th floor of this veteran skyscraper (completed 1989) offers a liquid view to the city. Although the drinks are among Wawa’s most expensive, this is one of the city’s most accessible views.QE-9.

Warsaw - THE HUB: Completed in 2020, this complex consists of two 130m buildings and an 86m building. For great views, head up to the bar on the 21st floor - The Roof (p.102).QC-8.

Atlas Tower: 119m tall and completed way back in 1999, the locals think this one looks like a porta-loo, but the 27th floor features one of the best luxury roof clubs in the world, Level 27. The building is also home to the Invisible Exhibition (p.70). QE-9.

Warsaw Spire - PL’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper (p.29). Photo by Adrian Grycuk.

The Old Town

Warsaw’s Old Town and Royal Castle never disappoint! photo: Micke Mareen/Canva

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area.

A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. Today it stands as a stunning testament of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, and its rise from the ruins.

If you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here.

In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p.74), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle (p.37) in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, its inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it.

WALKING TOUR

Our Old Town Walking Tour leads you around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district.

The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks - we reckon it will take at most several hours to complete. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your phone/camera, comfy shoes and off you go.

1 Plac Zamkowy

Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, with the steps of King Sigismund’s Column (p.44) typically besieged by couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s political demonstrations, street performers, or the steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll.

As you face ahead, the Royal Castle looms to your right and the medieval defensive walls of ul. Podwale to the left. A lot happens here, whether its a flow of locals and tourists out for a walk, political demonstrations, or street performers plying their trade. Also note that there is a tourist info office located here at Plac Zamkowy 1/13 (open 10:0018:00 every day except Sun: 10:00-16:00).QF-4, MRatusz Arsenał.

2 Royal Castle

The pride of Warsaw, this palace was reconstructed at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by communist-era cohorts such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles.

The ‘Grand Apartment’ of the Royal Castle.

Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of Parliament. Some of the halls are purported to be haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose ghostly appearance portends disaster.

Those who plonk down for admission (50zł/40zł) will have plenty to see, including the Kings’ apartments and chambers, the Houses of Parliament and the opulent Great Assembly Hall. Additional tickets are required for the Gallery of Masterpieces (40/30zł) and the apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski - aka the ‘Tin-Roofed Palace’ (open Wed, Sat, Sun only, 10:0017:00; 30/20zł). Luckily for families, children under 7 get in for free, while those 7-16 years old only have to pay 1zł! This one is well-worth a visit, especially if you love the opulence and grandeur of royalty!

Visiting time: 2hrs.QG-4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 50/40zł. Kids & students with valid ID, 1zł for each exhibit; Wed free for all exhibits.

U3 Branicki & Szaniawski Palaces

The neighbouring Branicki and Szaniawski Palaces are two stunning noble residences from the last century of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. The Szaniawski Palace at ul. Miodowa 8, named after the first noble family residents, was built at the beginning of the 18th century, and was later the

residence of the famed Ostrowski family. It was first reworked into its current classical style in 1812.

Branicki Palace at number 6 came later in 1740, and aimed to capture the magic of French rococo architecture, in addition to having a horseshoeshaped layout with stunning façades and rooftop windows. When Count Jan Klemens Branicki died in 1771, the estate was inherited by his wife, Izabella Poniatowska, the sister of King Stanisław August Poniatowski and an influential figure of the Enlightenment era in Poland. The palace was a congregation point for many Enlightenmentera creatives of whom Izabella was a patron. Both palaces were destroyed in WWII and reconstructed using Renaissance-era paintings as a reference. These romantic buildings from ‘straight out of a painting’ were brought together in 2022, when the Marriott’s Autograph Collection opened their first Polish property here as the Hotel Verte. This exquisite 5-star accommodation option also features KUK Restaurant by Maciej Majewski (p.90).QF-4, ul. Miodowa 6-8.

4 Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in

The courtyard of the joint Branicki-Szaniawski Palace complex. Photo by Projekt MIEJSCA.

St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959.

Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5 street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF-4, ul. Podwale.

5 Old Town Defensive Ramparts

The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates. The most famous of these now nonexistent structures was the Kraków Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower - the highest point in the defensive structures - near the corner of ul. Krzywe Koło and ul. Brzozowa. Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses.

As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as ‘Międzymurzę.’ Along this pleasant route you’ll find many historical plaques and monuments, as well as plenty of photo opportunities with the backdrop of the city and the Old Town! This is a perfect spot to wander, look over the city or nearby old town, and take in some great spring vibes and sun. Make sure to grab some great art from street vendors or listen to live music from buskers.QF-4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.

Take

6 The Little Insurgent Monument

The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show, and this smallbut-poignant monument made its debut in 1983. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the sculpture commemorates the children who had to grow up fast, serving as messengers and frontline troops during the Uprising. With its oversized helmet and rifle, the bronze figure was inspired by the story of 13-year-old corporal Antek, himself killed in action near this spot on August 8, 1944.QF-4, ul. Podwale.

Crossroads!

Continue along the Old Town defensive walls to the Barbican, and on to the Old Town Square?

Or, duck out of the medieval walls and down ul. Kilińskiego, hanging a left on ul. Długa for a short <20min/1.5km walk to the POLIN Museum (D-4, p.73) via the imposing Warsaw Uprising Monument and lovely Krasiński Palace and Gardens (E-4)?

7 Warsaw Barbican

Crowning the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, and was built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier city gate. Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when in 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished and incorporated into new apartment buildings. As part of the Old Town’s reconstruction after WWII, the Barbican was restored. Today it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and artists selling their wares.QF-3/4

Crossroads!

Stay on target with a stroll through the Barbican towards the Old Town Square?

Or take a detour down charming pedestrian thoroughfare ul. Freta, past the Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum (p.69), en route to the New Town Square (350m away)?

a leisurely spring stroll along the historic walls of the Barbican. Photo: Ekaterina Kolesnik/Canvapro

8 Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is prewar Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated tenements - keep an eye out for the ‘House Under the Lion,’ with frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our Polish artistic crush - look up her work) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska.

Today the buildings around the Rynek host numerous cafes, restos, shops and museumsMuseum of Warsaw occupies the entire northern side of the square, World of Illusion (p.76) can be found at number 21, and number 27 is home to Warsaw’s oldest, most prestigious restaurant, U Fukiera (p.93).

During the 15th century the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it features Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta.

9 Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch

Found inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 objects displayed over 21 thematic rooms (22 starting in April). Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, and other items with representations of the Polish capital, all of which contribute to a better understanding of the events that have shaped the Warsaw we know today. The history of the buildings themselves, which retain many original elements, is also presented, and there’s a bookstore, cafe and fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, www. muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-17:00; Thu 9:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 35/25zł; permanent exhibit only 25/18zł; temp. exhibit only 20/15zł; Thu free. U­6

wystawa

21.03. 1.09.2024

Rynek Starego Miasta 32

PROJEKTANTKA muzeumwarszawy.pl

Partnerzy: Patroni medialni:

The mermaid statue in the Old Town Square.

Eat & Drink

Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but, as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.

U Fukiera: Adhering to tradition with extravagant flair, this famous restaurant on the Old Town Square offers an exceptional dining experience.Qp.93.

KUK Restaurant by Maciej Majewski: Located in an 18th-century palace, discover KUK’s creative approach to haute Polish cuisine, with ‘neobistro’ styling and locally sourced seasonal products.Qp.90.

Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and a lovely space make this affordable franchise deservedly popular. Plus, there's a second location! Qp.85

U Barssa: This classy restaurant brings a refreshing refinement to the Market Square with traditional Polish cuisine. Try their signature ‘Duck a la Barssa’ Qp.89.

Bar and Books: Open after 17::00, this sophisticated, dimly-lit cocktail and whiskey bar occasionally hosts live music on weekends.Qul. Wąski Dunaj 20.

10 Gnojna Góra

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your tour. And it is for the views over the Vistula River, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste. As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, it turns out). From here head back towards the centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia.QG-4, ul. Brzozowa.

11 Ul. Kanonia

Once the site of the oldest cemetery in Warsaw, Kanonia Street takes the shape of a small square, at the centre of which is a cracked cathedral bell dating back to 1646. Cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column), the bell never actually rang at St. John’s Cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell while walking its circumference and your wish will come true

Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Only 2m across, it was designed to evade property taxes, which in the 18th century (when it was built) were calculated

The blue archway on ul. Dawna is a favourite of both locals and tourists!

based on the width of the facade facing the main street. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle and was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The attacker, who succeeded in striking the King twice with a pickaxe before being overpowered, was subsequently dealt with using the most medieval means imaginable: stretched by four horses, he was quartered with an axe; his body was then burned, and the ashes fired from a musket so as to disperse them in the air. This was all done in public, of course, at the city’s execution place, a few blocks away at the end of ul. Piekaska.QG-4, ul. Kanonia.

12 St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s 1st president) and various Mazovian knights can be seen in the crypt (open Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 15:00-17:00, closed during mass; admission 5/3zł). As with most major landmarks, it was left in a heap of ruins during the Warsaw Uprising, before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled demolition vehicle used by the German army.QF/G-4, ul. Świętojańska 8, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Open 06:00-20:00; Sun 07:0022:00.

Choose Your Adventure!

Circling back to Plac Zamkowy you can either carry on down the Royal Route (turn the page), or circle round the back of the Royal Castle for a walk through the free gardens and down along the riverbank towards Powiśle (p.50).

Ul. Kanonia Wishing Bell. Juan Antonio F. Segal, CC BY 2.0

The Royal Route

Springtime

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.37) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle (p.56), en route to Wilanów Palace (p.58) in the district of the same name. Officially covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great many of Warsaw’s historical buildings, parks and monuments along the way, making a trip down at least part of the ‘path of the kings’ - be it on foot, by bike, or motorised scooter - a fine opportunity to see the heart and soul of the capital.

WALKING TOUR

In lieu of the full 11km traverse, this walking tour picks up at the end of the Old Town Walking Tour (p.74) on Plac Zamkowy and guides you gently down Warsaw’s two main high streets - ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście and ul. Nowy Świat  - to the ironic/ iconic Palm Tree fittingly at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Street). An easy 2km/20mins on foot, along the way or very nearby you’ll find many wonderful restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, so use the rest of our guide to plan your pit stops. In the ‘Choose Your Adventure’ box at the end of the tour (p.49), you’ll find info on how to continue on the Royal Route to Łazienki and Wilanów (while resting your feet) should you choose to, or advice on how to veer off towards other interests.

1 King Sigismund's Column

We'll start at the iconic column in front of the Royal Castle, which effectively begins the transition between Old Town and Royal Route. Built in honour of the man who moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa - this 22m column was erected back in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle and has become a kind of meeting point for friends, tourists and everyone in between! QF-4, Pl. Zamkowy

on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the main thoroughfare of the Royal Route!

2 St. Anne’s Church & Tower

St. Anne’s survived the war with a few scratches and a bombed-out roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished in 1949 when the careless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which threatened to collapse; it took 400 people two weeks to stabilise the foundations. Interestingly, St. Anne’s also found disaster in the 17th century, when it survived the Swedish Deluge only to be the victim of arson two years later. The classical façade dates from 1788 and the interior holds even more classical and rococo details. The real reason to visit, however, are the splendid views from the tower - worth the 147-step climb (open 10:00-18:00) 10/7zł. Call +48 22 374 94 84).QG-4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 91, www.swanna.waw.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00.

3 Adam Mickiewicz Monument

Patriot and poet Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) is Poland’s greatest literary hero. Known as the ‘Father of Polish Romanticism,’ his epic poems and dramas served as inspiration for insurrections against the imperial powers that had partitioned Poland out of existence in the late 18th century.

Born to an upper class Polish family in what is today Belarus, Mickiewicz attended university in Vilnius, where he began publishing his poems and became involved in political activities against imperial Russia, which now occupied the former territory of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. These activities saw him exiled to Russia in 1824, but Mickiewicz was able to leverage connections he made in the salons

The Royal Route | Sightseeing

of Moscow and St. Petersburg to escape to the west in 1830, eventually settling in Paris. A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea in 1855. His body today lies with those of the Polish kings in Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral. To learn more, visit the Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature on the Old Town Square (F-4).

This monument was first unveiled in 1898 on the 100th anniversary of Mickiewicz’s birth.

Sculpted by Cyprian Godebski, the monument was destroyed by the Nazis, however, after WWII, Polish soldiers recovered Mickiewicz’s head and other demolished parts in Hamburg. Sculptor Jan Szczepkowski was able to produce a copy of the original sculpture, which was unveiled, along with its restored surroundings, in 1950.QG-5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21-23, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

4 ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście

Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most prestigious and well-known streets - the price tag of the rents matches the prestige! The street stretches from the Royal Castle in the Old Town (p.36) until it blends into ul. Nowy Świat. It is along the length of this street, and beyond, that you will easily find our list of things to see along the way - it’s almost impossible to get lost! As you walk along the route, be sure to stop at any of the 15 Chopin Benches. Designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, they feature a button, when pressed, unleash a 30 second torrent of Chopin. Each bench contains descriptions in EN/PL to the site’s relevance to the composer. This is a delightful walk down one of the prettiest parts of the city. QG-4, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

5 Presidential Palace

Guarded by lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.

Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May 3, 1791 Signed on these very grounds, it was the 2nd such document in the world, after the US

Constitution. The large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon.

After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. At the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918, the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out. QG-5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

Crossroads!

Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Piłsudskiego (p.28)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden, a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre and on a path to Hala Gwardii (E-6) and Hala Mirowska (D-6) - two massive indoor markets 15-20mins on foot from where you’re standing.

Presidential Palace © makam1969/Adobe Stock

6 Bristol & Europejski Hotels

Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol at number 42/44. First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name a few. In 1993 it was restored to its pre-war glory and the re-opening ceremony was such a big deal, it was attended by Ms. Margaret Thatcher. Refreshed repeatedly since, it is certainly among the very top hotels in the capital, boasting an interior by world-renowned designer Anita Rosato that blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. If you can’t afford to spend the night, you can still drop in to the wonderfully old school Cafe Bristol - a perfect place for coffee or breakfast.

Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski (no. 13). The first hotel to re-open after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘the Rolling Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities, and had themselves quite a time tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar. In 2018 the hotel was refurbed for the Raffles brand and today it is a stunning luxury space full of contemporary art and custom furnishings. If you want to have your proverbial socks knocked off, explore the building’s many first-rate dining and drinking venues, Though you might not be able to afford anything, you can still wander through Europejski Boutiques - the most exclusive shopping experience in the country.QG-5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, 13.

7 Chopin Benches

The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites connected with his life since 2019. Made of cast iron and polished black granite, these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, feature a button which when pressed unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. However, that’s not all. These benches see Chopin go techno: each one comes inscribed with a QR code – scan it and download the Chopin App to access audioguides, Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs. This is, at the very least, a fun little trick to show your friends as you sit down for a muchneeded rest while exploring the Old Town and Royal Route!QG-6, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.biuro. chopin2010.pl

The

8 The University of Warsaw

Carry on further and you’re in Warsaw Universityland, the main campus of which lies beyond the grand gateway of number 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw Uni was established here in 1816. The university had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the uni continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning travel writer Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and the poet Julian Tuwim.QG-6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl.

9 Holy Cross Church

No self-respecting Chopin fan (is that you?) can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Smuggled out of Paris in a jar of booze by his sister (true story), Chopin’s heart was brought to the church in accordance with his final wishes in 1882 and is sealed in an urn behind a tablet bearing his likeness, specially carved by Leonardo Marconi.

Although Chopin’s ticker serves as the church’s key draw there are several other notable features and funereal remains to tempt you inside this astonishing Baroque creation. These include another urn with the remains of Nobel Prize-winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski. The organ, built in Salzburg in 1925, is also the largest in Warsaw.

Throughout a history that dates back to the 15th century, Holy Cross Church has played a role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul, filled with elaborate decorative details that make dropping inside worthwhile.

QG-6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl/ Open 10:00-11:30, 13:00-16:00; Sun 14:00-16:00.

10 Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, Copernicus made his observations alone, a century before the invention of the telescope. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. Though obvious today, this was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although those who propagated his ideas were burned at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy.

The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a new plaque here insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp! - a German. A boy scout named Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the monument, then dynamited a few others for good measure. The statue was recovered after the war, and Dawidowski entered Polish folklore for his bravery. QG-6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet.

11 ul. Nowy Świat

The name of this street means “New World” and it is an apt description; just south of ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, Nowy Swiat has a similar look to the Old Town but instead of museums and history, you’ll find food, beer, live music and a street constantly bursting at the seams with life.

Copernicus monument at the Polish Academy of Sciences

Like much of the Old Town, Nowy Swiat was also razed during WWII, but was rebuilt almost immediately following in a neo-classical style, rather than its pre-war Art Nouveau style. Legend (and history) goes that this street was rebuilt based partly on paintings of its pre-war ancestor. Now, you can admire the architecture as you make your way south down the street (which becomes a pedestrian walkway on the weekends). Make sure to stop by Karmello for some chocolate nosh and coffee, or Oto! Sushi for some seriously delicious (and fresh!) California rolls. If it’s nightlife you’re after, there’s plenty of bars: Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whiskey (open until 3 a.m. Thu-Sat) will serve all the bright colored drinks you want; across the street, Kufle i Kapsle has a craft beer menu that will make even the snobbiest beer snob happy. We could go on, but there is a lot in the way of eating and drinking and fun. Finish your journey by taking in the towering palm tree at the intersection between Nowy Świat and Al. Jerozolimskie, an art installation that’s a beloved little touch of the tropics in the middle of town. QH-8

12 The Palm Tree (Palma)

Wondering what a giant palm tree is doing in the middle of this roundabout? Modern art, my friends. In this case, a project called ‘Greetings from Jerusalem’ by Polish artist Joanna Rajkowska, who, during a trip to Israel, was struck by the brainwave of sticking a palm tree in the Polish capital to give it some sunny cheer (in the most ironic way possible). The palm tree is actually a steel column specially designed to bend in the wind, covered with natural bark and leaves made from polyethylene. Quite popular, the permanent installation reminds us of all the beautiful and exotic places we could be instead, as well as the whimsical joy that lays at the heart of this city . Take a few photos and - if you get a chance - ask locals what they think of the sculpture. It's certainly striking and a hell of a talking point.QG-8, Rondo de Gaulle’a, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

Eat & Drink

Syrena Irena: Dive into modern Polish food done well. Order a variety of pierogi and customize your order with exciting toppings in this chic spot. Qp.83

Specjały Regionalne: Experience some of the best Polish food the capital has to offer, from juicy duck to fluffy dumplings and Polish charcuterie boards, all in a space filled with traditional Polish folk art. This is a must!Qp.88.

Tokyo Sushi: A great pit stop on Nowy Świat, drop in for a great value on their huge menu of sushi rolls, salads, ramen and hot dishes.Qp.81.

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Immense portions of traditional Polish fare and charming service. What's not to like?.Qp.86.

Choose Your Adventure!

From the Palm Tree, Warsaw’s ‘Royal Route’ continues another 10km before it ultimately ends at Wilanów Palace - the 17th-century residence of King Jan III Sobieski. While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isn’t realistic or especially rewarding, Łazienki (p.54) and Wilanów (p.58) are both required for getting a broader sense of Warsaw’s former glory as the grand capital of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea. You can easily get to either from the Foksal 01 bus stop on ul. Nowy Świat. To get to Łazienki Park, hop on bus 116 or 180 and get off three stops later at ‘Łazienki Królewskie.’ For Wilanów, take the same numbers, or catch the direct E-2 bus; get off at ‘Wilanów.’ Use jakdojade.pl for live public transit connections.

If your’re not worn out, heading 300m down charming ul. Ordynacka (G-7) leads you direct to the Chopin Museum, where you’ll connect with our Powiśle district tour (p.50).

Alternatively, head west down pedestrianised ul. Chmielna - past many a bar and restaurant - to reach the Palace of Culture (p.25) in about 10mins.

Of course you can always backtrack to the Metro to make a shortcut to the River Boulevards (p.51) or onward to Praga (p.60). Decisions!

Warsaw’s famed Palm Tree!

Powiśle: Warsaw’s Riverside District

Warszawa Powiśle is the ultimate summer and spring spot for outdoor dining.

Once a mundane area of apartment blocks and industrial decay, over the past two decades Powiśle has transformed into one of Warsaw’s most intriguing and eclectic areas to explore.

Considering its plum location along the riverside, it’s hard to believe that this large neighbourhood was essentially a cultural dead zone until skyrocketing rent costs in the centre forced Warsaw to reconsider its potential. Now, Powiśle has become a hotspot for everything cool, young and happening in Warsaw, so much so that the city decided to recently open a gorgeous pedestrian bridge tying the Praga (p.60) area east of the river to Powiśle (you can access it via Ul. Karowa in Powiśle or Ul. Okrzei in Praga.) The history of Powiśle's growth is interesting: Warsaw University was the first to pitch a tent in the area, creating a draw since 2002, and the adjacent opening of the Copernicus Science Centre in 2009 invited further cultural investments. Then the Metro (2015) helped make it into a popular place for public recreation. The redevelopment of the former Elektrownia Powiśle power plant into a space for events, dining and shopping (2020) typifies the high-powered investment taking place here today. Still, Powiśle maintains an authentic local vibe thanks to its balance of both trendsetting gastro spots and boho dives (like the iconic Warszawa Powiśle bar). Roll yourself downhill towards the river from Warsaw’s Old Town or City Centre to discover what’s good in this hood!

What to See

1 Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Warsaw’s Chopin Museum is touted as one of the most high-tech in Europe. Three floors of interactive exhibits cover the composer’s life in every aspect, including a recreation of his Paris drawing room, the last letter he wrote to his family, his death mask, and even an intriguing section on his social circle. In addition, there are dozens of touchscreens, audio-visuals, and musical games, making the museum a highly interactive experience that will keep visitors of all ages engaged. Thirty-minute live concerts take place every Sat and Sun at 12:00, 15:00 and 17:00 (available to all museum visitors). Visitor numbers are restricted, so we suggest reserving tickets online in advance. Located in the famous Ostrogski Palace, the building’s catacombs are said to be home to the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the Devil before being transformed. Visiting time: 1hr. Q H - 7, ul. Okólnik 1, M Nowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.muzeum.nifc.pl/pl/muzeum/ wizyta-informacje . Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/15zł. U

2 Powiśle Mermaid Statue

Warsaw’s ‘Syrenka’ - the iconic freshwater warrior mermaid - has been representing the Polish capital since time immemorial. The monument here is the second-most famous statue of the city’s symbol (the first being on the Old Town Square, (p.41), though this one actually overlooks the river the mythical icon is alleged to have dwelled in. At 2.75 metres tall, the bronze monument was unveiled in June 1939, just months before the outbreak of WWII; remarkably it stood unscathed in this exact spot throughout the entire war.QI-6, Bulwar Bohdana GrzymałySiedleckiego (near Most Świętokrzyski), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

3 Vistula River Boulevards

Warsaw has modernised and improved its left bank dramatically in the last decade. The Powiśle boulevards flanking the Świętokrzyski Bridge and leading north to the Old Town have seen the most development and are now a popular thoroughfare for walking, running, cycling and skating, as well as bars, cafes and restaurants - particularly in the warmer months - plus parks and leisure spaces. .It’s fair to say that Warsaw’s river boulevards are now among the best in Europe so don’t miss having a stroll along the water while in town.QI-6, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

4 Elektrownia Powiśle

Once one of the largest electrical power plants in Europe, Elektrownia Powiśle powered the Polish capital from 1904 to 2001 before it was closed and left to crumble. Purchased by a developer in 2016, the historic industrial site was transformed into a multifunctional, mixed-use urban centre. Covering a massive 50,000m2, much of the site has been converted into offices, apartments and a hotel, but a remaining 15,000m2 in the former boiler and

Szczygla

Eat & Drink

When it’s time for a rest or a feed, there are many worthy venues on and around ul. Solec - one of the main streets in the area, as well as numerous food trucks and barges moored up along the river. Also, Elektrownia Powiśle has an entire food hall inside, so your options are manifold. Here are a few other notable venues in the neighbourhood:

Prime Cut: True culinary innovation, with a unique fusion of New York classics and European flair and a passion for dishes that boast the finest quality ingredients that ensure every bite is a testament to good taste. In Elektrownia . See p.91 Q ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 43B

LAS: Lush but refined, this ‘forest’ uses local, seasonal ingredients to create contemporary incarnations of Polish classics, plus unusual cocktails.QI-7, ul. Solec 44.

Tres Toros: Affectionately known as 'Little Spain', Tres Toros brings you into the vibrant world of classic Iberian cuisine, its flavours and colours. Located in Elektrownia (H-6).Qul. Dobra 42.

engine buildings comprises commercial space for retail, gastronomy and wellness. Reopened in 2020, today Elektrownia offers four levels of shopping, and is a culinary hotspot with 41 restaurants bars and cafes across the complex (get the specifics on their Food Hall on p.94). Additionally, there is a 1500m2 Beauty Hall offering over 450 cosmetic treatments from 8 beauty & wellness centers. QH/I-6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22

www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 11:00-21:00. Food Hall open 12:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-22:00. T­U­6­K

5 Copernicus Science Centre

An example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically. In addition to temporary exhibits and the all-ages ‘Experiment Zone,’ there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and adults. Don’t miss the Planetarium (separate opening hours and ticket). Visiting time: 3-4hrs.QI-6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Fri 09:0020:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00. Closed 1st Mon of every month. Planetarium open based on first show. Check times on website https://www.kopernik.org.pl/en/ planetarium. Admission 40/28zł; holidays & weekends 42/29zł; planetarium 28/20zł. U

6 Warsaw University Library Rooftop Gardens

Topping off the oxidised green library building is a lovely two-level rooftop garden filled with bridges, streams and sculptures that covers an entire hectare; there’s even a fishpond and a stone fountain mixed in among the oak trees and Japanese spirea. The garden affords panoramic views of lower left-bank

Elektrownia Powiśle is packed with indoor and outdoor activities and spots to spend time in the sun.

Warsaw and Praga. A wonderful place to stop and rest in the heart of the city, take a picnic and sit amongst the groups of students. We also highly recommend visiting the BUW Gallery to see some fantastic Polish poster art (open 13:00-18:00, Sat 13:00-17:00, closed Sun; admission free).QH-5, ul. Dobra 56/66, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.buw. uw.edu.pl. Open 08:00-18:00 in April; 8:00-20:00 MaySept. Library open Mon-Sat 08:00-22:00, Sun 15:0020:00. Admission free.

7 Kładka na Wiśle (Footbridge)

Just in time for spring! This long-awaited pedestrian footbridge opened in late March, connecting Praga on the east side of the river with Powiśle on the west. You can access it near Karowa Street in Powiśle (around Mariensztat below). The gorgeous new bridge is meant for walkers and cyclers alike, and the 502-metre structure features viewing platforms and rest areas. The Polish name, Kładka na Wiśle, means "Footbridge on the Vistula River". QH-5, Karowa 6.

8 Mariensztat

Cut off from the rest of the Old Town by Trasa W-Z, the Mariensztat area - the northern-most part of Powiśle, has its origins in the 18th century when nobleman Eustachy Potocki married Maria Kątska and received the land as part of Maria’s dowry. The area was built in 1762 and named after his wife, with the latter part of the name ‘stadt’ (changed to ‘sztat’ after World War II) being added to appease the Saxon king of Poland at the time, King Augustus III. Completely destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising, it was rebuilt after the war using a totally different street plan; the architectural design aimed to evoke a look mixed between 18th century buildings in the Praga district while also incorporating a socialist realist element. The picturesque neighbourhood is full of small parks and winding streets and provides a leafy retreat from the crowds just a short distance away from the heart of the Old Town. QG-4/5, ul. Mariensztat, MRatusz Arsenał.

Choose Your Adventure!

From Powiśle it’s exceedingly easy to get to Praga (p.60) or the City Centre (p.26) via the handy riverside ‘Centrum Nauki Kopernik’ M2 Metro station. Alternatively, walk north along the river to return to the Old Town (p.36) or check out New Town’s Multimedia Fountain (F-3), which is a popular attraction for young families; both are about 2km/20mins on foot.

This glorious 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of Warsaw’s unparalleled highlights, adored year-round by locals and visitors alike. Although it seems as if half of Warsaw spends its fall Sundays here, the park is so vast that it never feels crowded and offers an enchanting opportunity to escape the capital’s modern-day gloom and get lost in its nostalgic past. Don’t mistake Łazienki for a simple city park; it is also a museum complex full of wonderful art and architecture. Don’t miss it.

The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the nearby Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence (thus taking the name Palace on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden. Perfect for romantic strolls, family picnics and cultural outings, today the park is packed with gorgeous sculptures and monuments, palatial architecture and priceless art, lovely landscapes of bridges and ponds, plus cafes, restaurants and more. With so much to see and explore, don’t be surprised to find yourself spending most of a day here

Tickets & Info

While the park is free to explore, Łazienki’s indoor exhibits require a paid ticket. There are two ticket options:

Ticket 1: includes Palace on the Island, the Old Orangery, Myślewicki Palace, White Pavilion, and Water Tower. (the latter two are closed from October to May) 40/20zł, kid under 7 s & students under 261zł.

Ticket 2: same as Ticket 1, plus the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship. 50/25zł, kids under 7 & students under 26 1zł.

Buy tickets from cash desks or machines at the Old Orangery or Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship. All exhibits have the same hours.Q H - 12, M Politechnika, tel. (+48) 22 50 60 024, www. lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Park open 06:00-20:00. Indoor attractions open Sun,Tues & Wed 10:0016:00; Thurs & Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 12:00-18:00; closed Mon.

Belvedere Palace

The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then once again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście (p.46). Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is essentially offlimits to visitors, but an eyeful to behold. A wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns, the best views and photo ops are fetched from outside the park on Al. Ujazdowskie. QH-12, ul. Belwederska 56.

Chopin Monument

Don’t miss this famous art nouveau sculpture of Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin. Depicting the composer right here in Łazienki beneath a willow tree, the acclaimed work by Wacław Szymankowski was erected in 1926. As part of the Nazi campaign against Polish culture it was dynamited by the Germans on May 31, 1940; as the story goes, the following day an unknown patriot placed a placard on the wreckage declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader.’ An original plaster-cast allowed the statue to be revived and this reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. Concerts start here in mid-May.QH-12.

Mikkego

Zwierzyniecka

Warsaw’s iconic Chopin monument.

Photo by vodolej / AdobeStock.

Getting There

Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116 (from Old Town/Nowy Świat) and 180 (from Al. Jerozolimskie, bus stop ‘PKP Powiązki’); get off at the ‘Łazienki Królewskie’ bus stop. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl

Old Orangery

A good place to start a visit to Łazienki, the Old Orangery is one of two ticket offices and tourist info points in the park. Originally erected in 1785-88 to house exotic trees through the once-harsh Polish winter, the sunny structure also harbours King Stanisław August’s Royal Theatre - one of the few surviving 18th century court theatres in Europe. Constructed out of wood and covered in marblised polychromes, the ground floor is rather modest with simple benches on risers, while the upper level features nine boxes with eight female figures gripping candleholders in between. Interestingly, the space above the boxes has been painted to create the illusion of yet another level, complete with an 18thcentury court audience. The theatre is still used today to host chamber concerts. The other important aspect of the Old Orangery is the Royal Sculpture Gallery From the beginning of his reign, Stanisław August collected hundreds of marble and plaster copies of the most famous sculptures from antiquity. 120 of the most important of these casts are displayed inside the Orangery. Visiting time: 30mins.QI-11.

Palace on the Isle

The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre

Built as a Baroque bathhouse in 1683, the structure was converted into a Neoclassical residential palace in the late 1700s by King Stanisław August. Located on an island in the middle of a narrow lake, and connected by colonnaded bridges on each side, the façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors. Today, almost all of the palace can be visited, including the King’s private rooms. The main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, is decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. In 1793, King August converted the palace into the first modern public museum, displaying the most important paintings from his collection. Today, 140 of these canvases are on display as the Royal Picture Gallery, and arranged as they would have been in the years 1793-1795. Visiting time: 4560mins.QI-11.

Myślewicki Palace

Built in the 1770s and 80s, this elegant semi-circular palace was originally conceived as King Stanisław August’s primary residence, though it gradually shifted to more diplomatic functions, hosting official state soirees and accommodating foreign ministers. Designed in Early Classicist style, the unique recessed entrance is decorated with mythological sculptures. After a renovation, the building again appears very much as it would have in the late 18th century, and a walk through the interiors is worth the short amount of time it takes to see them. Visiting time: 30mins.QJ-11.

Flanked in tulips, the Old Orangery is a delight in the spring. Photo: Paweł Czarnecki

Botanical Garden

Part of the University of Warsaw, these separate gardens at Łazienki have several greenhouses stuffed with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom, the gardens are the preferred subject matter of art students, who set up their easels early and paint until the guards kick them out at sunset. QH-11, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.uw.edu.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. From May to August open 10:00-20:00. Greenhouses open Tuesday to Sunday. Admission 20/10zł (park and greenhouses), kids under 7 free.

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship

Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to avid hunters and horse lovers, though the latter may have some trouble with all the mounted trophies. If so, you can skip the former Cantonists’ Barracks and head straight to the Kubicki Stables, home to an exhibit of horse-drawn carriages, saddles, harnesses and riding accessories; the Stables also host the Royal Weaving Workshop - featuring 19thcentury Jacquard looms, ornamental fabrics, old fabric patterns and more. Visiting time: 1hr.QJ-12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9. Admission 16/8zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł. Fri free.

Eat & Drink

Łazienki has several cafes and restaurants, though most of them are very pricey. Head out of the main gates to Plac Unii Lubelskiej (H-12) for more casual options.

Belvedere: Located in the park’s New Orangery, this is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious restaurants and worth the money, but not for families after a day in the park.QI-12.

Być Może: This hip cafe/bistro bakes its own bread, offers all-day breakfast and daily lunch specials, and is perfect whether you’re craving coffee or wine.QH-12, ul. Bagatela 14.

DZiK (Dom Zabawy i Kultury): This old residence offers European cuisine and hosts a wide range of evening events, getting wild on weekends.QI-13, ul. Belwederska 44 A.

Viet's Baguette: This deli offers 16 varieties of banh mi, known as a 'Vietnamese hoagie.' A great place to stop in before you head to the park. QG/H-12, ul. Puławska 7/9.

Klonn: Centrally located for perfect post-park bites, this stylish parkside resto is worth it for modern cuisine and excellent wine. QH-11, ul. Jazdów 1B.

The interior of the Palace on the Isle is a stunning look at royal life.

Wilanów

Gaudy grandeur and lush gardens at Wilanów. Photo: Ł. Kopeć © City of Warsaw.

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century 45ha palace and garden complex 10km south of the centre.

Essential visiting for anyone wishing to understand the former grandeur of the Polish capital, Wilanów is more than just a palace. As one of the few existing remnants of the era when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea, today it also represents the European splendour and sophistication that was lost and few today associate with Warsaw. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings also represent the height of Polish Baroque and are collectively one of Poland’s greatest cultural treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend most of a day relaxing and taking in the sites here.

Getting There

10km south of the centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25-35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warsaw.jakdojade.pl

What to See

Wilanów Park & Gardens

The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several arctefats, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. Through April hours are 9:00-20:00 with final entry at 19:30. Through Sept, open until 21:00 with final entry 20:30.QP-2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www. wilanow-palac.pl. Open 09:00-20:00. Admission 10/5zł, Thu free (0zł ticket is still required).

Wilanów Palace Museum

The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of

the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th century. Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visit the Wilanów Palace website for info about current temporary exhibits and to buy tickets. Visiting time: 2hrs.QP-2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl/. Open 10:00–16:00. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission (includes park admission) 35/28zł, kids 7-16 1zł, kids under 7 free; Thu free. U

Potocki Mausoleum

An extraordinary piece of funerary art, befitting two of Poland’s most powerful, wealthy and influential families, this tomb in Wilanów Park was dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. Consisting of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner, on the sarcophagus itself are the figures of the deceased, and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed.QO-2, Wilanów Park.

St. Anne’s Church

A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a Neo-Renaissance design by Henri Marconi, including adding the marvellous dome. In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower.QO-2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl Open 08:00-17:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-12:00; Sun 14:00-18:00.

Wilanów Lake & Island

There’s also a natural lake found behind the Palace, where seasonal gondolas complete with gondoliers and rowing boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the water that will begin again in May (weather permitting). A trip here will reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to the island at the centre of the lake reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and gave his life at Wilanów fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809. The Lake is inaccessible from SeptemberApril.QP-3, ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16. Open 10:0021:00. The Lake is inaccessible from September-April.

Potocki Mausoleum

Photo by Chichebombon

Chodakowska Kamionkowska Terespolska M i ńska Augusta Biruty

Kawę czy ńs ka S iedlecka Rad z ymińsk a Łochows ka

K i j ows ka Żup n icza

Lubelska

Habetina

Międzynarodowa

Nobla Saska ąDbrówki Ang orska Niekłańska Waleczny c h

Poselska Francuska

G r a n i c z n a

‘Gritty’ and ‘boho’ are just two of the terms tossed around to describe Praga, Warsaw’s east riverside district

Once disregarded due to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth visiting – especially for those looking to get off the tourist trail and see more of the city’s artsy side. The current standard-bearer for cool, folks here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark. Filled with murals and hip hangouts, you can easily spend a day checking out the vibes of this alternative district across from the Old Town.

Getting to Praga

The easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to ‘Dworzec Wileński’ (eastbound to ‘Trocka’), and you’ll be in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river to the ‘Park Praski’ stop. If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the ‘Stare Miasto’ stop, taking trams 4, 13, 20, 23 and 26 to ‘Park Praski.’

1 Praga Museum of Warsaw

Located in the oldest surviving residential buildings on Warsaw’s right bank, this modern museum boasts interactive exhibits that tell the story of Praga: its people, history, industry, bazaars and more. The cellars include the Residents’ Stories Archive and two pre-war Jewish prayer rooms with original wall paintings, and there’s even an observation terrace. This is not one of the most well-known museums in Warsaw, but is certainly one of the most interesting. Well worth a visit.

Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs.QJ-3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www. muzeumpragi.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Thu 11:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, permanent exhibit only 15/10zł, temporary exhibits 10/8zł; Thu free. U

2 ul. Ząbkowska

Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated and its artistic vibe more felt than on Ząbkowska. Originally lined with timber frame houses, a fire in 1868 led to their replacement with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street so hard that wholesale demolition was seriously considered, but somehow it endured and today many of the buildings have been restored and filled with lively galleries and bars. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Praga’s high street when you discover the explosion of murals and street art near ul. Targowa. Don't forget to take photos!QJ-3, ul. Ząbkowska, MDworzec Wileński.

Eat & Drink

Locals will tell you that the best part of Praga isn’t the sightseeing, but the nightlife. The area’s main attraction is a vodka museum after all. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in and around Centrum Praskie Koneser, along ul.

Ząbkowska and ul. Okrzei. Here are some of the best hangouts in Praga:

3/4 Koneser Bar: Skip the museum and head straight to this bar hidden on the 3rd floor of the Vodka Museum to try their delicious alcohol infusions and cocktails, and enjoy beautiful views.Qp.98

Setki Powodów: There are 100 reasons why you should swing by, including its retro-neon chic, cocktails, a tantalising food menu and a kicking live music roster!Qp.101

Francuska 30: This is the spot to be for a coffee, a glass of wine, and some good eats. Also known as the "umbrella cafe" (you'll see why), this delightful space is all about French food and drink in a casual environment. QL-7, ul. Francuska 30.

3 Centrum Praskie Koneser

Once the Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this large industrial site lay mostly derelict before getting a major revamp in recent years and becoming Centrum Praskie Koneser. Interesting from an architecture and urban renewal standpoint, the complex includes the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art, art galleries and dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops! In the spring and summer there are frequent events, concerts, music, games and more! QK-2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu T­U­o­E­6­­­­

4 Polish Vodka Museum

Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit. This is a must for anyone interested in the history of Poland's national drink (and for anyone who wants to try a sip). Entries are timed (PL and EN tours hourly) and it’s wise to look at all the tour options online and book in advance Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK-2, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www. muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. 60zł. 6

Thrifting Culture

Praga is known for many things but locals know that one of its best attributes is its thrifting culture. The neighborhood is a hotbed of thrift stores, charity shops, and second-hand stores. Here’s our suggested starting route. Get off at the Kijowska tram stop, begin on the south end of Ul. Targowa and work your way north!

Jeila Ciucholand:  With two stories and tons of men’s and women’s clothing, this is the perfect starting point. Find staple shirts, skirts, etc for around 10-20 Zł. Plus, some cool home items upstairs!QK-4, ul. Targowa 20B.

Nash Outlet:  You know those stories where people find a designer piece in a thrift store and they just can't believe their luck? This is the place for that. This tiny store is packed and there are some real gems if you’re patient enough to lookQJ-4, Targowa 35

Kopalnia: There’s more to visit on Targowa, but let’s jump off for a bit and go to Kopalnia - this store is clothing, but also furniture, books, art, ceramics and so much more. It’s a little more expensive but so well-curated and the items are so nice that a visit is a must (say hi to the owner’s pet turtle while you’re there!).QK-2, ul. Białostocka 9.

5 Neon Museum

Yet another old industrial space-turned-cultural-hub is Soho Factory, the biggest draw of which is no doubt the illuminating (non-pun intended) Neon Museum. The passionate curators of this private museum have collected hundreds of Communist-era neon signs. One of Warsaw’s most photogenic places. Visiting time: 30mins.QM-4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org. Open 12:0018:00; Sun 11:00-17:00; closed Tue. Admission 18/15zł, kids under 6 admission free. U­6

6 Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska

One of the most desirable districts of Warsaw; with property prices staunchly high, the neighbourhood is home to the nouveau riche, the intelligentsia and much of the capital’s art community. Now in the shadow of the National Stadium, the sporting complex plays a major role in bringing visitors to the focal point of the area: ul. Francuska, which hosts trendy bars, cafes, restaurants and mix of boutique and old-school shops - Saska Kępa is as close as Warsaw gets to the ‘Little Village’ areas of London or

Paris or Greenwich Village in NYC. As such, it’s a great place to wander around, people watch, take in cafe culture on Francuska, or marvel at the architecture, including majestic 19th century manor houses, superb examples of 1920s and ‘30s modernism, Cold War tower blocks and ultra-modern developments. QL-6/7/8, ul. Francuska, MDworzec Wileński.

7 Agnieszka Osiecka Monument

Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which were turned into pop hits. She’s also known for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties; her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband, Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles Manson’s family of weirdos. The statue is located in Praga Południe aka Saska Kępa, and you’ll often find people lying gifts, flowers and candles at her monument. To round out your visit check out Osiecka’s favourite café, Maska, which stands around the corner from her monument.QL-7, ul. Francuska (corner of ul. Obrońców).

8 Skaryszewski Park

Across the river is one of Warsaw’s most attractive parks, with plenty of artificial hills, waterfalls, lakes and flowerbeds filling the 55 hectare site. Originally founded in 1905, it first went under the name of Paderewski Park up until 1945. Several points of interest including a monument commemorating allied pilots killed when their B24 bomber was shot down in 1944 while trying to supply insurgents fighting in the Warsaw Uprising. Only seven crew members survived. Note: the main entrance to this park is currently under construction, but there are plenty of other entrances on the north and west sides QL-5/6, Al. Zieleniecka, MStadion Narodowy.

9 PGE National Stadium

Opened January, 2012, PGE Narodowy can hold 58,000 fans. The construction was built using hundreds of 45m pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25m of war rubble the stadium sits atop Priced at 1.2 billion PLN, history buffs will note the Socialist era ‘Relay’ statue at the entrance has been preserved in a nod to the site’s heritage – it was here that Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium) stood, built in the 1950s to mark the anniversary of the end of WWII. . Today, this is an exceptional place to watch football or mega-concerts. All tour info can be found on their website. Most tours cost 35/25zł.QK-6, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 95 95, www.pgenarodowy.pl

Art, History & Culture

Warsaw’s combination of these three is what makes it so exciting. Whether you’re an art lover, amateur historian, or tracing your roots, Warsaw’s heady brew of imperial grandeur, prewar glamour, 20th century tragedy, socialist austerity and present-day dynamism makes it unique in Europe and offers much to the visitor. Use this chapter of the guide to discover the capital’s art spaces and current exhibitions, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in Warsaw’s modern history.

An original flask from one of the Chevau-legérs – the soldiers who fought for Napoleon on horseback – now displayed at Vodka Museum (p.70).

Warsaw’s Best Museums & Art Spaces

Warsaw is the centre of Poland’s contemporary art scene and home to countless pieces of priceless art. While Krak ów’s collections skew more historical, Warsaw boasts a great variety of exhibits showcasing younger artists as well as the nation’s masters. When it comes to art tourism, temporary exhibits are often as or more important than permanent collections, so check the current exhibitions on p.66.

1 Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Located in a beautifully-restored palace, this museum uses incredible interactive multimedia displays to illustrate the life of Poland’s most famous composer, without any details missing! QSee p.50

2 Museum of Life Under Communism

A fantastically unique museum that has recreated the difficulty and absurdity of everyday life during the years of Poland's communist rule.QSee p.70.

3 Zachęta National Gallery

One of the most popular and beloved museums in Warsaw, Zachęta showcases temporary exhibits with contemporary art in a stunning Renaissance-style palace. QSee p.71.

Murals & Street Art

What about art in public spaces? Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish print advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street art as well. And they do. In Warsaw both graffiti art and large-scale murals are a common sight, with the city and private businesses even inviting international artists to do installations. You’ll find a particularly high volume of murals on buildings in Praga, Wola and around the City Centre, where the urban landscape is changing most rapidly. Although it’s a dynamic situation, as many murals are installed on buildings that later become designated for demolition, at WIYP we keep a close eye on murals and urban art, marking major works on all of our maps; just look for the spray can icon . Not only that, but we’ve meticulously put it all online with exact GPS coordinates, so that your smartphone can do the work of leading you directly to Warsaw’s alternative artistic visions.

4 POLIN Museum

One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history in fascinating, engaging, and often interactive, detail. QSee p.73

5 Art Box Experience

An immersive 360° art experience teeming with vibrant, swirling colors and breathtaking moving imagesQSee p.68.

6 Vodka Museum

Poland's first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500year history of Poland's cherished national drink. Independently founded by the owners of beloved restaurant, Elixir by Dom Wódki.QSee p.70.

Discover the life and works of Frida Kahlo in this immersive exhibit at Art Box Experience

Temporary Exhibits

It’s not uncommon for some temporary exhibits to be major events, even overshadowing the permanent collections of local museums. Of the literal hundreds of art events across Warsaw, here are a few picks for the coming months. For more, as well as other events in the capital, head to our website.

02.06 - 31.05 » Childhood

Consider the notion of what it means to be a child with an exhibition that presents viewers, with the lives of 6 children born every 30 years over the last century, looking at the way ideas and behaviors of childhood have adapted over more than 100 years. QF-6, National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, Admission 19/10zł., www.ethnomuseum.pl/ wystawy/dziecinstwo/. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:0019:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 02.06 » Chopin’s Letters | A special exhibition

Using Chopin’s own letters to family and friends, this exhibition gives a window into the composers closest surroundings in the mid-19th century, a time rife with political revolutions. This exhibition in particular centers on Chopin’s letters at a difficult

time in European history, when cholera and tuberculosis were gripping the continent.QH-7, Fryderyk Chopin Museum, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, Admission 25/15zł, www.muzeum.nifc.pl/.

UNTIL 31.12 » DESIGNERS OF LIGHT

The women creators of Warsaw’s neon signs.

This exhibit put on by the Neon Museum in Praga is a deep-dive into the female designers -- graphic artists, visual artists and even architects -- responsible for many of the famous neon signs of the 1950s, 60s and 70s that were found around Warsaw and other Polish cities. QM-4, Neon Museum, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org/english

Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.

UNTIL 02.06 » Frida Kahlo. The life of an icon

An immersive experience using light and color to look at the life of one of the world’s most famous artists. This exhibition uses photographs, video, digital images, collector’s items and music to examine Frida Kahlo’s life and what made her so prolific.

Her life story still uplifts and inspires, as it shows a resilient, strong, rebellious and talented woman capable of overcoming adversity. This must-see exhibit is held at the newly open, immersive art center, Art Box Experience (p. early June.QD-8, Art Box Experience, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), tel. (+48) 571 03 04 80, 75/65zł, www.artboxexperience.com/en/frida-kahlo-the-lifeof-an-icon/

UNTIL 01.09 » Julia Keilowa. Designer

Stop by the Museum of Warsaw for an art exhibit on one of Poland’s greatest designers from the early 20th century. Julia Keilowa created everyday objects in her own distinctive style with a heavy Art Déco influence.

With a wealth of sculptural experience, she worked on developing her plating technique in which she covered metals with a thin layer of siver or gold. The technique that became so popular that her designs entered the salons of the Second Republic of Today, Keilowa’s metalwork belongs to the canon of masterpieces of Polish design, and her works are sought after in the collectors’ market as coveted additions to both public and private art collections.

QF-4, Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, tel. (+48) 22 277 44 02, 20/15zł, muzeumwarszawy.pl/en/wystawa/julia-keilowadesigner/.

UNTIL 15.11 » “Polish Flowers”

This exhibition takes a trip through Polish rituals by way of flowering plants. In seven rooms full of flowers, color and adventure, a multi-sensory path is laid out, primarily for children and their families. Much of the exhibition is interactive: swing on ropes made of linen and help, watch artists dye flowers. Learn about traditional floral folk design and make a flower map of Poland. For the science-geared children, you can study the structure of a flower in detail and learn about the behaviors of flowers (which ones bloom at night?).

QF-6, National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl/wystawy/kwiaty-polskie 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Museums

The mesmerising interior of the Fryderyk Chopin Museum and its interactive multimedia exhibition (p.50).

Warsaw boasts some superior museums, ranging from world-class attractions full of multimedia displays, to small institutions covering niche historical events. It’s more than we have space to cover here, but you’ll find them all listed and up-todate on our website. In this guide, some of the city’s most important museums are listed within the district tours of Sightseeing section, while the rest of the best are here. Descriptions focus on each museum’s permanent collection; for current temporary exhibits, see p.66

Archdiocese Museum

This Old Town Museum showcases over 20,000 items dating from the Middle Ages up to today. Split into the Sacred and the Profane, the former includes liturgical objects, paintings and sculptures of Jesus, Mary and the saints. The latter includes lots of furniture, clocks, sculpture and paintings, including works by famous artists. One highlight is entering the ‘Royal Corridor’ (aka the ‘Piekarski Corridor’) that formerly connected the Royal Castle with the Cathedral, and was built to ensure King Sigismund III Vasa’s safe passage between the two following an assassination attempt in 1620. Visiting time: 1hr. QG-4, ul. Dziekania 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 621 34 14, www.maw.art.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-16:00; closed Mon. CATHEDRAL CRYPTS MondaySaturday: 10:00-17:00 Sunday: 15.00-17.00. Temporary and permanent exhibitions and crypts 38/28zł U

Art Box Experience

Using high-tech screens and playing with light and darkness, movement and stillness, the creative experts at Art Box present a number of highly immersive exhibitions through moving paintings and photographs projected across the walls, which visitors can marvel as they wander through the 800 sqm space. And the space isn’t just reserved for what the bright minds at Art Box can come up with -- it can be used for events, too! This can be big dinners, corporate meetings, retreats and much much more! This space regularly celebrates famous artists with gorgeous, floor-to-ceiling exhibits (the current one is on Frida Kahlo. p.67) so check out their website for more!QD-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), tel. (+48) 571 03 04 80, www.artboxexperience.com/ en/about-us/. Open 9:00-20:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Asia & Pacific Museum

Founded in 1973, this was the first museum in Poland entirely dedicated to collecting art from outside Europe and currently counts items from almost every country in Asia and Oceania among its nearly 22,000 total pieces.

The collection includes, among other things, amazing weapons, rich fabrics, countless theatre puppets and masks, musical instruments, sculptures and paintings by contemporary artists. The museum also collects documents, photographs, films and recordings of ethnic music. Additionally, there are frequent temporary exhibitions held here so make sure to check their website! Visiting time: 1hr.QJ-7, ul. Solec 24, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 621 94 70, www.muzeumazji.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/9zł. Thu free. English group tours cost 100zł (plus price of individual ticket). U

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum

Born in Warsaw in 1867, local lass Maria Skłodowska would become better known to the world as Madame Marie Curie. Located in the renovated building she was born in, this charming museum pays homage to the life and work of the two-time Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist, whose many accomplishments include the discovery of the chemical element polonium (named after the country of her birth). Visitors will learn about her family and early life, see a recreation of her Parisian laboratory, and view personal effects, including her private letters and scientific instruments. The former home/museum of one of Poland's most famous women is a must! Visiting time: 1hr.QF-3, ul. Freta 16, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 80 92, www.mmsc. waw.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 11/6zł, Tue free. U

Museum of Dollhouses, Games & Toys

A small, charming museum fittingly located right in Warsaw’s Old Town. Showcasing over 150 highly-detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, the museum’s two permanent exhibits - ‘The Bygone World of Dollhouses’ and ‘Religious Toys’ - both show unique handcrafted models, costumes and toys, while also demonstrating how tastes and fashions have changed over time. Another small branch nearby at ul. Krzywe Koło 2/4 (F-4) hosts temporary exhibits (currently toys from the PRL-era). Visiting time: 4560mins.QF-4, ul. Podwale 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 797 72 30 29, www.muzeumdomkow.pl. Open 11:00-19:00. Tickets 35/25zł; kids under 1m tall, free.

Museum of Life under Communism

If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL (Polish People’s Republic) vibes at this private museum. Showing what everyday life was like for locals during the years of Poland’s communist rule, the nostalgic exhibits include a recreation of a typical PRL-era apartment, plus plenty of photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Visiting time: 1hr.QG-10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 12:00-20:00. Admission 28/18zł. Audioguides 10zł, free on Thu in EN, FR, IT & ESP.

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

Completed in a Baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII and torn down by communist authorities. Fortunately, the castle was rebuilt to its original design in the 1970s. Today several large exhibition halls showcase a rotating collection of the very best contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, by leading Polish and international artists. Visiting time: 2hr.QI-10, ul. Jazdów 2 MPolitechnika, tel. (+48)

22 628 12 71, www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Thu 11:00-20:00. Admission 16/8zł; 2 exhibits 12/6zł; 1 exhibit 10/5zł; project room 5zł; students 1zł; Thu free.

Vodka Museum

Poland's first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500-year history of Poland's cherished national drink. With the world's largest collection of over 10,000 exhibits, visitors delve into vodka's origins, production processes, design, and even the traditional etiquette in which vodka is served and consumed. Independently founded by the passionate owners of the renowned restaurant Elixir by Dom Wódki (p.90), the museum seeks to shift the perception of Polish vodka from mere party indulgence to a finely-sipped and respected spirit. Showcasing intriguing artifacts like a Napoleonic soldier's vodka-filled canteen and 1920s/30s bottles that were sent to the U.S. during prohibition, the museum offers an enlightening and enjoyable experience, and paying a little extra gets you in on a vodka tasting session. Tickets cost 30zł to see the permanent exhibition, whilst an included vodka tasting session is available from 35zł all the way up to 199zł for their VIP Package! Prior reservation is essential for this not-to-be-missed attraction. If you're going to see one place in Warsaw, let this informative, fun and engaging museum be it! Visiting time: 1 hr.QF-5, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance from ul. Canaletta), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 888 600 805, www.muzeumwodki.pl. Open 13:00-19:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 30zł. X

Invisible Exhibition

A unique experience where seeing impaired guides lead you into their sightless world. On the tour you’ll understand the challenges blind people face daily as you try to write with a Braille typewriter, use kitchen gadgets designed for the sightless, and solve simple puzzles while blindfolded. Next, enter a series of pitch-black rooms that force you to rely on your other senses. You’ll feel the contours of a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is, listen for cars before crossing the street, and the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar (bring some cash). Truly a fascinating experience. To visit, book online in advance. Tours in English can be arranged, but you must first email them via info@niewidzialna.pl with ‘TOUR IN ENGLISH’ as the subject line. Visiting time: 1hr.

QC-9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Atlas Tower), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.niewidzialna.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. Admission 40/35zł; Sat, Sun 45/40zł. N

Polish History Museum

Explore the history of Poland in this sleek, 7,300-square-meter museum that covers 1,000 years of Polish history through artefacts, movies, performances, guided tours and more! There are plenty of history museums in Warsaw, of course, but if you’re coming to the capital city and wondering where the full, extensive picture of Poland’s past is located, well then you’ve found it! This museum starts with the Jagiellonian Dynasties before moving on to the Polish Commonwealth in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. The partition of Poland, the reunification, the period of WWII, communism, and more.Qul. Gwardii 1, tel. (+48) 691 231 681, www. muzhp.pl/en. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue. 10/5zł, children under 7 free.

Zachęta National Gallery of Art

One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Located in a beautiful Renaissance-style palace in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden, the setting itself is worth a visit. What makes Zachęta more of a gallery than museum is that there is no core permenant exhibition on display, but rather top-notch temporary exhibits showcasing the best in Polish and international contemporary art. Visiting time 6090mins.QF-6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art. pl. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. last entry at 7:30 pm. Admission 20/10zł, family ticket 25zł, students 2zł. Thu free. U­6

Warsaw National Museum

Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar building, this is Warsaw’s most comprehensive art museum, leading you from the ancient world through the middle ages up to the 19th century. Along the way you’ll see the some of the country’s most priceless works, including Dutch masters and Botticelli. There’s also the Gallery of Polish Design and the Faras Gallery - the latter of which holds a rare exhibit of medieval Nubian art from the Nile River Valley. Get a mix of painting, history and architecture, as well as some fascinating temporary shows. The current temporary exhibits a look at the cultural interpretations of the myth of Arcadia, a blissful, natural space that's a common theme in both Greek and Roman myth, and in Renaissance paintings. Visiting time: 3hrs.QH-8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26; 1zł; Tue free. U

Jewish Warsaw

When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, Warsaw’s thriving Jewish population numbered approximately 350,000 - only New York City could boast a larger community.

Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland had been seen as a relative safe haven, and it attracted Jewish settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years, the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland.

As we know, Nazi occupation meant the complete dehumanisation and systematic destruction of Poland’s Jews, who were first forced into ghettos, where they faced violence, starvation and disease, and then deported to Nazi death camps where they were executed. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of WWII and occupied much of the City Centre, as you can see by its outline on the maps in this guide. At its height it imprisoned 460,000 Jews in an area of 3.4km2. After more than 254,000 Varsovian Jews were sent to their deaths at Treblinka in the summer of 1942, those remaining began building bunkers and smuggling weapons into the Ghetto in preparation for what would be the war’s largest act of Jewish resistance. Beginning on April 19, 1943, Jewish fighting units engaged German troops in guerilla

warfare within the walls of the Ghetto in a final, doomed act of bravery, defiance and protest against the world’s silence and inaction. When the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended 27 days later with the German command’s symbolic detonation of the Great Synagogue, 13,000 Jews had been killed, almost half of them perishing from the fire and smoke as the Nazis burned the Ghetto to the ground, building by building. Of the remaining 50,000 Jews, almost all of them were captured and perished at the Majdanek or Treblinka Nazi death camps.

Following WWII, much of Warsaw’s surviving Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., the British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and elsewhere. Today Warsaw’s Jewish community is estimated at only about 2,000, but the city’s Jewish heritage remains an essential part of its identity, honoured today by innumerable monuments, memorials, museums and events, foremost among them the POLIN Museum, presenting the history of Polish Jews, and the annual Singer’s Warsaw Festival For a full list of Jewish tourism sites in Warsaw, visit our website

The spectacular wooden synagogue installation at POLIN Museum.

Worth Visiting

Anielewicz Bunker

Only 350m from POLIN, this small mound and memorial marks the site of the large bunker from which the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB). Located beneath the tenement at the wartime address of ul. Miła 18 (today Miła 2), the bunker was discovered and surrounded by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, with about 300 people hiding inside. Given the chance to surrender, half of the occupantsmostly civilians - gave themselves up, but the ŻOB insurrectionists chose to stay and fight. When the Nazis used gas to force them out, many of the ŻOB fighters chose suicide. 120 fighters died, including ŻOB commander Mordechai Anielewicz and his girlfriend Mira Fuchrer; only about 15 survived (many of whom perished later). The bodies of the dead were never exhumed and covered over with rubble from the surrounding tenements to make this mound after the war. Today two monuments can be found on/near the memorial with inscriptions commemorating their sacrifice.QD -3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.

Jewish Historical Institute

This amazing historical building that stood next to Warsaw’s Great Synagogue houses the Oneg Shabbat Archive, also known as the Ringelblum Archive - a secretly kept collection of documents, reports, essays, letters and other materials recording exactly what life was like in the Warsaw Ghetto, by those who were experiencing it, as it happened. As the Ghetto came under siege in 1943, the vast archive was secretly buried in three containers in three separate locations. Sadly, only the first two have been recovered, but they represent such extraordinary witness testimony that they were inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World List. In the permanent exhibit you will see the original documents of the archive, the authentic containers and more. If you don’t have the time for POLIN, this is a great alternative. There are also temporary exhibits and an excellent bookshop. Visiting time: 90mins.

QE-5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Tue 09:00-20:00; Fri 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Sat. Last entrance 1h before closing. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free.

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery

A beautiful and poignant place to visit, this is Warsaw’s only active Jewish cemetery. Established in 1806 beyond the city trenches (‘okopy,’ where today’s Okopowa Street runs), the cemetery houses some 200,000 tombs and is the final resting place of many generations of Varsovian Jews, including Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB-5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Fri 9:00-13:00; Sun 9:00- 16:00; closed Sat. Admission 20zł. N

POLIN Museum

One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through multimedia displays that earned the 2016 European Museum of the Year award. Located within the former Warsaw Ghetto, the modern building itself is a stunning structure of copper and glass. Inside, each gallery addresses a different era in the history of the Jewish people in PL, from the 10th century to the tragic events of the 20th. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the permanent exhibit is primarily a celebration of 1,000 years of Jewish life in PL. Exhaustive and fascinating, it takes the better part of a day to explore. The temporary exhibits are of such quality that they require their own ticket, and the museum is also home to a cafe and an excellent restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available). In the middle of a green public square, outside, visitors will also see several monuments, including a massive memorial the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto. Visiting time: 3hrs.QD-4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; closed Tue. Admission with audio guide 45/35zł, temporary exhibition only 30/25zł, audioguide 10zł, Thu free. T­U

Okopowa Jewish Cemetery (B-4) in the Wola district. Photo by Jacek Kadaj / Canva Pro

Warsaw Uprising

Polish Home Army soldiers in action, 1944.

August 1, 1944 . Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories.

With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Vistula, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the ‘Armia Krajowa’ or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63-day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler’s forces.

17:00 - W-Hour

On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 17:00 signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would simultaneously attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a lack of weaponry. Nonetheless the Germans were caught off guard, and the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital.

Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks.

Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.

After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own.

Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.

The Aftermath

Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.

Warsaw Rising Museum

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive, multimedia displays, period artefacts, photos, video footage and plenty of sounds effects, this museum is guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station, the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the 1944 Uprising - provided they don’t make any wrong turns; it’s a common mistake, and, as such, an audioguide (10zł) is handy. You can also get a guided tour in Polish (150zł) or in another language (200zł). Set aside several hours for the experience.

Visitors start by learning about life under Nazi rule, with immersive displays including a clandestine radio station and covert printing press. The mezzanine level features a film detailing the first month of battle, including the opportunity to clamber through a mock sewer. There is also an exact replica of the B24 Allied planes used to make supply drops over the besieged city. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the city’s destruction; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis.

Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5min 3D aerial ‘film’ that uses old photos and new tech to recreate the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. Visiting time: 3hrs.QB-7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 30/25zł (kids under 7 free), Mon free. Audioguides in 27 languages 10zł/person. U

The Old Town Market Square in ruins, 1945.

© City of Warsaw

Activities & Experiences

Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation.

Stacja Grawitacja

Smart Kids Planet

Smart Kids Planet is one of the best spots for kids and families in Poland! With 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, kids can play and learn as they do different tasks like building construction, shopping for food and fresh produce, learning about sports, and the magic of machinery and production lines, and much more! They'll develop cognitive function and cooperation skills all while having fun (plus there's a rest area for parents!)QD-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 9:00-20:00.

Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features 3D virtual reality gaming by Hologate, a ropes course, obstacle course, basketball and volleyball courts and even a climbing wall with routes for all ages and abilities. Put on anti-slip socks and join the fun. Children ages 3-6 must be accompanied by adults; older kids can be let loose while their parents hang out at the well-stocked cafe.

Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www. stacjagrawitacja.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

World of Illusion

A strict break from the stuffiness of the Old Town, this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows, and an upsidedown room - each and every one out-of-this world! Pefect for groups and pairs, make sure your phone is fully charged so you don’t miss these photo-ops, and go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. Admission 40/30zł. 6

Art Box Experience

MK Bowling Entertainment Center

Found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, this modern entertainment centre is just 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1 metro line ‘Metro Młociny’. Once you’re there, you have the choice of 12 bowling lanes, 3 billiards tables, and 4 shuffleboard tables, plus a bar that also dishes out Neapolitan-style pizza! Call in advance to reserve.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, 2nd floor), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start-warszawa. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.

Using high-tech screens and playing with light and dark, movement and stillness, the creative experts at Art Box present a number of highly immersive exhibitions through moving paintings and photographs projected across the walls, which visitors can marvel as they wander through the 800 sqm space. The space isn’t reserved for what the bright minds at Art Box can come up with - it can be used for events, too!QD-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), tel. (+48) 571 03 04 80, www.artboxexperience.com/en/aboutus/. Open 9:00-20:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Museum of Life under Communism

If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL vibes at this museum. Showing what life was like under communism, the exhibits include a recreation of a PRL-era apartment, photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Visiting time: 1hr.QG-10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl. pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 12:00-20:00. Admission 28/18zł. Audioguides 10zł, free on Thu in EN, FR, IT & ESP.

Kids & Families

In addition to bouncy floors, Stacja Grawitacja (p.76) also boasts the best 3D VR gaming experience in Poland!

While Warsaw has plenty of wonders, not every cultural site is going to be engaging for young visitors. The first step to having a successful family vacation is probably to just accept that what you and your kids want to do are not going to be one and the same. That said, there’s common ground to be found in some of Warsaw’s most popular attractions.

Wandering the Old Town (p.36) or Łazienki (p.54) will likely please everyone, as will a walk along the Vistula Boulevards (p.51) - a great outing with plenty of diversions, most obvious of which is the stimulating and educational Copernicus Science Centre (p.53) and Multimedia Fountain Park further north. You’ll also find playgrounds along the river, and in the high season you can take a ferry to the wild side of Wisła and enjoy one of the city’s wild beaches

Although it may sound more like punishment, kids really respond to the interactive exhibits of the highly modern Warsaw Rising Museum (p.75), which features areas designed specifically for young visitors. Some of Warsaw’s more niche museums like the National Ethnographic Museum,, Museum of Dollhouses (p.69) and Photoplasticon are also good choices for families. Of course, Warsaw has plenty of action-packed indoor attractions so don’t miss the rainy day recommendations on the previous pages. Panoramic viewpoints are also a winner with kids, so in addition to those at the Rising Museum and

University Gardens, check out St. Anne’s tower (p.45) near Plac Zamkowy, and the viewing terrace at the Palace of Culture & Science (p.25).

Warsaw Photoplasticon

Hidden in a dark pre-war tenement near the train station, a visit here really is a trip back in time. A popular form of entertainment in the pre-cinema era, a ‘photoplasticon’ is basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) where visitors sit in front of a viewing station to see vivid photos as they slowly rotate by. Although photoplasticons were quickly made obsolete by moving pictures, this one, which has been here since 1905, somehow stayed open, surviving the war and even serving as a meeting point for intellectuals during communism. Check online to see what’s loaded into the machine from their collection of over 7,000 images. Visiting time: 20mins.QF-8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Open 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 10/6zł; Thu free.

Warsaw Zoo

This really is worth a visit, and before you go, check out the history on their website. Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and has 13,000 animals, across 500 species. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the zoo.QH-3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:0018:00 April and weekdays later (after April, weekends 9:00-19:00) Admission 35/30 zł.

Smart Kids Planet

Young families visiting Warsaw need not worry about wholesome fun for the kids! Head along to Fabryka Norblina and you will find Smart Kids Planet - the first edutainment centre in Poland --recreational format that bridges the gap between play and science. Divided into 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, kids can journey through different worlds - building construction, food and fresh produce, sports, the magic of machinery and production lines, and more. This center helps kids learn how to cooperate, become ecologically conscious and, become familiar with the latest tech. Made for children aged from 0-10, Smart Kids Planet is also smart for parents too, with 3 rest zones for Mums and Dads, a cafe with a kids menu, and the Smart Kids Store (p.106)!QD-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 09:00-20:00. ­U­

Pinball Station

Listen here, sonny boy. Back in the day, folks used to go down to the arcade and play the pinball machines for a little entertainment. Relive those predigital days in this wildly fun and nostalgic pinball museum, featuring over 100 working machines you can actually play on, some of which date back to the 1930s. A great place to introduce this old school game to younger generations, admission gets you unlimited play for the entire day; you can even leave and come back later.QB-9, ul. Kolejowa 8A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 600 63 31 15, www. pinballstation.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Admission 49/43zł; kids under 12, 35zł. kids under 4 for free.

Dining in Warsaw

Nowhere is Warsaw’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories with the type of cuisine listed under the venue name; for more options visit our website. In terms of tipping, 10% is standard (easy math). Smacznego!

You can try a selection of mouthwatering, authentic Mediterranean food at PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino.

Tokyo Sushi

utensils Japanese

Located right on Nowy Świat (with a lovely seasonal terrace, plus additional locales in the Blue City and Galeria Mokotów shopping malls), Tokyo Sushi is a great place to take a break from shopping or sightseeing for a healthy and filling lunch. The menu is absolutely exhaustive, encompassing almost any kind and combination of sushi you could desire, plus soups, salads, sashimi, gunkan, tartar, hot dishes with rice and 650ml bowls of ramen. If you can’t decide what you want, simply grab what looks good (everything?!) from the ready-made sushi rolls and salads going by on the conveyor; each is colour-coded by price from 8-15zł. Popular with the local business lunch crowd, there are many value deals to be had in the afternoon - including weekends - and the sheer volume of food being served ensures that all the ingredients are exceptionally fresh.

QG-7, ul. Nowy Świat 50, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 657 15 89, www.tokyosushi.com.pl Open 11:00-23:00. €€€. T­U­6

Loft utensils European

Centrally located, right in the heart of Warsaw (and a quick jaunt from the city center’s best shopping) there is Loft, a welcome respite with everything from burgers and wings to salads and spritzes, all under the umbrella of “Modern European Cuisine.” The space itself is fun, with bubbly lights and bright furniture mixing with gorgeous, colorful wall murals and tons of light. And the menu is equally fun to match -- it lands somewhere between chic and casual, with offerings like croissant sandwiches and juicy salmon filets, to authentic homemade pasta and delicate crostini. Adults will be happy to know that it’s also known for its inventive cocktails, with flavors like green tea and whiskey, rosemary, honey, smoke and more. Try one of their own inventions, or go for your old stand-by cocktail: it’s all here! They’re also known for their deals throughout the week

QF-7, ul. Złota 11, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 64, www. restauracjaloft.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-00:00; Sat 11:00-00:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. €€.

T­U­B­6

Breakfast & Brunch

Nova

For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird or a late riser, get a good first feed in the places listed here!

Nova Wola

Located within the elegant Crowne Plaza Hotel, Nova Wola encourages a wholesome start to your day in Warsaw, with a fresh and organic breakfast selection as part of its impressive modern Polish menu offer (p.91). You’ll find light and healthy options crafted from local and seasonal ingredients. The breakfast menu includes favorites like omelettes with customizable add-ins, shakshouka, brioche with smoked salmon, avocado and fried egg, and oatmeal with coconut milk. For those seeking unique choices, Nova Wola also offers yogurt, berries, and granola, as well as hummus with roasted vegetables, avocado and egg. Additionally, the restaurant stands out by offering entire pots of coffee, ensuring you have ample caffeine to energize yourself for he day ahead.

QC-8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 06:30-10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30-11:00. €€€€. T­U

Panattoni Café

A delightful addition to Warsaw’s coffee scene, Panattoni Cafe at Krochmalna 58 is the perfect combination of aromatic coffee, mouthwatering dishes, and phenomenal desserts. While stylish and modern, the interior design and layout of this space has maintained a cozy atmosphere, inviting you and your entourage to come in, relax, and indulge in the menu on offer. Your day in Warsaw should begin with a cup of Panattoni’s finest, whether it’s a classic black or something milk-based. As any hardcore coffee enthusiast would expect, each and everyone is expertly prepared to perfection and ready to drink and/or instagram! Your coffee can also be indulged with a side of delectable desserts, which you can on display (sure to satisfy your sweet tooth).QC-7, ul. Krochmalna 58 (Browary Warszawskie), tel. (+48) 663 33 77 88, www. panattonicafe.com. Open 08:30-20:30. €€. T­U­6

Wola has the tastiest (and most photo-worthy) breakfasts!

ROXX Warsaw

On weekends this upscale restaurant becomes the ultimate brunch haven! Classic egg breakfasts are served in just about any way you want, whether it be Florentine, Benedict or Royale, served with brioche, scrambled with truffles, soft- or hard-boiled. Hot and cold sandwiches include an irresistible Croque Monsieur or Croque Madame, a shrimp and mango sandwich that is tantalizingly adorned with chili mayonnaise and chives, and more. Elsewhere, there is an delectable array of freshly-baked goods, including croissants with jam and chocolate. Their loaded waffles are a fluffy paradise, crowned with seasonal fruits and vanilla cream. My goodness, it’s hard to know where to start!QG-8, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 420 32 23, www.roxx.pl/l_en/. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 09:00-00:00; Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:00-22:00; closed Mon. Breakfast served Sat & Sun only, 09:00-14:00. €€€€. X­T­B­6

Stacja Caffe

This is the spot for some tasty and healthy breakfast -- and the best part? It’s located right in the oh-so-popular Stacja Grawitacja trampoline (and more) center. Start your day with a delicious array of eggs, fruit smoothies, crunchy and fluffy falafel, bagels loaded up with avocado and salmon, and much more. Then, when you’ve fueled up, you can head out to the rest of the center, which includes a trampoline park, a climbing wall, a ropes course, and way more. It’s the ideal day for kids, adults and everyone in between. Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 130 666. https://www.stacjagrawitacja.pl/ warszawa/bistro/menu-stacja-caffe/. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. €€. U­B­6

Syrena Irena

Polish food abounds in Warsaw -- you can get pierogi all over the place. But when it comes to really good, really modern Polish food, you have to know where to look and Syrena Irena (p.89) is the place to start. Syrena Irena By focusing on making really excellent handcrafted pierogi, the chefs of this iconic space have honed their craft to a science. But they don't just do pierogi - their breakfast menu is also beloved with delicious offerings like a kaiser roll with ham and cheese, fluffy butter-fried pancakes, toasts with toppings like mouthwatering sauteed mushrooms and spinach, and fresh croissants with a fruity element. Wash it all down with a cup of perfectly brewed coffee -- and then come back for their lunch menu!QKrakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, tel. (+48) 535 851 991. Open 09:00-20:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00. €€. U­B­6

Breakfast Market

They say it’s the most important meal of the day, but in Warsaw it’s also a cultural experience. The Breakfast Market (Targ Śniadaniowy) offers foodies a range of delicious day starters from dozens of local food producers, farms, restaurants and catering companies. Taking place outdoors in neighbourhood parks, mingle with locals, explore new parts of town and get your grub on by creating a picnic spread from the fresh foods on sale here, or choose from an array of readyto-eat meals from local producers as well. A highly social event, the Breakfast Market caters to families by organising events for kids and other attractions. Best of all, you don’t have to get there early. Occurring on weekends beginning in April and lasting until the end of September (maybe later if the weather’s nice), on Saturdays 09:0016:00 you’ll find the Breakfast Market near Plac Inwalidów (corner of Al. Wojska Polskiego and ul. Śmiała) in the leafy Żoliborz area; on Sundays from 10:00-17:00, the Market moves to the park area of Skwer AK Granat in Mokotów.Qtel. (+48) 508 12 18 91, www.targsniadaniowy.pl. Open Sat 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-17:00.

The Cool Cat

One of our favourites, The Cool Cat is part Asianfusion bistro, part cocktail dive bar, all awesome. If you need evidence that this laidback cult hangout has hipness to spare, they sells jars of their own vegan mayo and kimchi. They specialize in ramen (of course) and serve an iconic bao donut dessert topped with matcha ice cream and caramel miso. The best time to visit is all the time, but especially on weekends, when epic, highly popular 37zł brunches are served until 14:00 (don’t sleep on this one!).

Exceptional coffee, wacky cocktails, craft beer and natural wines. 2nd location at ul. Marszałkowska 8 (H12).QI-7, ul. Solec 38, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 81 18 16. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 09:30-22:00; Sun 09:30-21:00. €€. T­6

Casual dining

Beef

Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen.

Beef n’ Pepper

utensils Steak

Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s Texas shopping mall, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar. The quality of the cuts here is excellent (28 days wet-aged or 30 days dry-aged) and the fact that they use the finest local meats means the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons, and there’s live music every Tuesday from 19:00. Plus, they're super animalfriendly!QF-9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€€. T­U­E­6

Symbol & Price Key

Bierhalle

utensils International

Inspired by the brewhouses of Bavaria, Bierhalle is an original concept that combines original beer produced on-site with mouthwatering cuisine brought to the table by talented and traditionallyfrocked waitstaff. A popular franchise all over Poland, guests will get to try several flavours of delicious ale (served in enormous steins), and see also see the brewing process in action. The menu offers a variety of dishes from Poland, from homemade dumplings to oven-baked pork knuckle, grilled salmon, chicken salads and much, much more. Also at Galeria Północna.QC-2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 601 67 79 62, www. bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€€. T­U­B

€ most mains under 35zł

€€ most mains 35–55zł

€€€ most mains 55–80zł

€€€€ most mains 80–120zł

€€€€€ most mains over 120zł

n’ Pepper never disappoints, with savory, juicy steaks and a side of delectable dipping sauces.

Browar Warszawski

utensils International

The revamped Warsaw Brewery is one of the largest, most modern brewpubs in the region, producing 18 craft beers on site, from contemporary IPAs to legacy ales from the days of the Haberbusch & Schiele Brewery. Choosing is hard, so try a tasting set. The menu is tailored to complement your liquid meal, and includes a truffle burger, fresh seafood, platters from the Josper grill, plus veggie options, signature cocktails and single malt whiskys. The post-industrial interior has plenty of intimate spaces, and also gives you a peak at the brewing process. All around a top venue for drinks, dining and making the rounds.QC-7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 799 00 00 21, www. browarwarszawski.com. Open 16:00-00:00; Sat 14:0000:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. €€€. E

Ciao Napoli

utensils Italian

Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square (p.41), Ciao Napoli succeeds in bringing a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, piadina and desserts, it’s the Neapolitan pizzas which really distinguish this small family-run franchise. The friendly atmosphere and cosiness of the restaurant also makes an impact, despite its popularity. That being said, you will leave satisfied, especially when you realise how reasonably priced the whole experience is! Their second location at ul. Piwna 40/42 (F-4) has weekday lunch specials from 12:0016:00.QF-4, ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 508 69 43 52, www.ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. T­B­6

Clash Restaurant & Bar at NYX Hotel Warsaw

utensils International

NYX has created an inviting first-floor space where urban art and culture collide. With an open floor plan that features traditional dining areas flowing into more casual zones with sofas and armchairs, The Clash’s unique visual aesthetic includes retro and modern furnishings, elegant place settings and gold cutlery. Dine on a unique fusion of Polish-Israeli cuisine, order a signature cocktail, or challenge their bar staff to make you a custom drink. Take advantage of Happy Hour specials from 17:00-19:00, and don’t be surprised to hear live bands or a DJ dialling up the vibes (check their FB to see what’s on). QD/E-8, ul. Chmielna 71, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 346 29 00, www.leonardo-hotels.com/nyx-hotel-warsaw. Open 14:30-23:00. €€€. T­U­E­6

Czerwony Wieprz utensils Polish

Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members of the early communist movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it. Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike (including Bruce Willis, Lennox Lewis and the Real Madrid football squad). Keep their lunch menu in mind, on offer from Mon to Fri, 12:0016:00. The restaurant closes at 23:00 daily, except for Sundays when it closes at 22:00.QC-7, ul. Żelazna 68, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www. czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. T­U­B

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi utensils Polish

You can’t visit the capital of Poland without trying some traditional Polish food, right? Gościniec has just that - hearty soups, plump dumplings, potato pancakes and various cutlets - all prepared ‘as they should be’ and at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat. The drinks on offer are funky (cold/hot options), and it’s all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire. It may feel very kitsch inside, but the food hits the mark and the portions are immense. Additional locations at ul. Nowy Świat 41 (G-7), and deep in the Old Town at ul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14 (F-4).QG-5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:30. €€. T­B­6

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem utensils Polish

Located directly between the Royal Castle and the Old Town Square, this veteran Polish restaurant is as simple and traditional as it gets. A good option for tourists, families and anyone looking for their first foray into Polish cuisine, the modestly priced, bilingual menu includes photos of almost every dish. There is a lot to choice, from classics like pierogi (15 types), potato pancakes with goulash and mushroom soup served in a bread bowl, to old school staples that have dropped off most modern menus like tripe soup and chicken livers with fried onions and baked applesQF-4, ul. Świętojańska 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 428 39 43, www.gospoda.waw.pl/. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €€. T­B­6

L'Osteria

utensils Italian

This chic little bistro suits the vibe of the surrounding Centrum Paskie Koneser complex (p.61), serving up traditional Italian food with style. This food has high-quality ingredients made in the traditional Italian way. Try some pizza with hand-made dough and a variety of authentic Italian ingredients, from prosciutto funghi to quattro formaggi, as well as other beloved favorites (BBQ chicken, anyone?) If you’re more in a pasta mood, L’Osteria offers up some delicious dishes, combining fresh ingredients like garlic, basil, spinach, cream and more. If, after a day of shopping and pampering at Centrum Praskie Koneser, you are ready to eat real, authentic Italian food, this is the place you should park yourself!QK-2, Plac Konesera 10A, tel. (+48) 22 166 10 88, https:// losteria.net/pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00; €€€. T­U­­6EX

MOMU

utensils Polish

MOMU has reshaped its image entirely and almost literally rebuilt its kitchen around an imported American Southern smoker. Now they specialise in grilled and smoked meats, fish, fruit and even cheeses. Their smoker is fed daily by fresh aromatic wood from the Łomianki forest outside Warsaw. The smoked theme carries over to the cocktail menu as the skillful bartenders whip up creative cocktails using savoury and spicy smoked ingredients. The slightly austere white brick interiors are compensated for by the kitchen’s colourful creations. The staff are eager to make your visit a memorable one, as are the musicians performing live on Fri & Sat nights from 20:00-22:00.QF-5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11 (entrance from Pl. Teatralny), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 506 10 00 01, www.momu.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Wed, Thur 13:0023:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00. €€€. T­B­E­6

Namaste India

utensils Indian

What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store almost two decades ago has developed into multiple full-service restaurants. This - the expanded original location - remains the consensus best Indian food in the capital, just ask anyone who lives here. The prices are set so low you can’t help but wonder what’s the catch - there isn’t one; we’ve tried the entire menu and it’s all delicious. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture and ask about booking their private room for parties and meetings.QG-8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. T

PierOgarnia

utensils Polish

Located right in the heart of Warsaw, these are authentic, handmade pierogi done really well. You’ll find all the classic flavors here, from cheese and potato, to mushroom and cabbage, to meat and of course, spinach. The thing that sets this place apart is the flavor and the locally sourced ingredients. If you’re looking for good, authentic pierogi on your adventures around the city, this is the place to go. If you're looking for a good spot to meet locals, have a good conversation, and feel like you're really at home here in Poland, this is the spot, too. This homey atmosphere has everything that a visitor could want. QF-8, ul. Złota 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 80, www.facebook.com/PierOgarnia11/. Open 12:00–20:00. €€. T­B­­6

PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino

utensils Mediterranean

An original take on Mediterranean cuisine, with a focus on simplicity that lets the expert preparation shine. Plus, the Primitivo wine collection means you can experience the top-shelf wine (from Croatia and Italy) as you enjoy your meal. The dishes themselves as well as many ingredients come from the Mediterranean basin and others are locally sourced.

Vegan & Vegetarian

Chefs focus on 3-ingredient dishes that allow them to highlight the expert preparation and quality food. The restaurant design itself is also a huge attraction. With muted, earthy tones and wood, stone, ceramic and glass elements in the design, Primitivo is reminiscent of some of the most sought-after dining experiences around the globe (modeled after famed Copenhagen restaurant NOMA). QD-7, ul. Waliców 13, tel. (+48) 606 444 462, www.primitivo.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. T­U­B­­6

Specjały Regionalne utensils Polish

Famed for their ecological, locally-sourced ingredients, the reasonably-sized portions and affordable prices have long made this an ideal place to sample a range traditional Polish dishes, and their deli allows you to take many of their flavours home with you. They also regularly host events, including folk music concerts, presentations on Polish history, special food and alcohol tastings, and pierogi workshops; contact them to reserve. Also at ul. Gagarina 4 and ul. Dąbrowskiego 3 (Mokotów), and ul. Płochocińska 195 (Białołęka), with multiple shops and delis across Warsaw.QG-7, ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. (+48) 662 25 42 15, www.specjalyregionalne.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €€. X­T­­6

As the capital of a country that traditionally feasts on meat, and smears lard on bread as a snack, you might be surprised to learn that in 2021 National Geographic named Warsaw the top city for vegans in the world

Bliski Wschód Vege Street Food & Cocktail Bar

If you’re one to think flavor only comes from dishes with meat, let Bliski Wschód dispell that notion right now. This all-vegetarian restaurant packs a flavor punch with meals inspired by cuisines of Lebanon, Turkey, Israel, Tunisia and Egypt. And while you dine on a savory halloumi burger or a crispy bite of falafel, you can admire the gorgeous interior, with delightful design elements that add to the overall atmosphere of the Middle Eastern space. Plus, there are two levels and VIP rooms for smaller parties, so you can plan events or hold gettogethers here! If you like to have shisha, this is also the spot, as it has an extensive sisha menu done in an unusual way. QUl. Złota 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 79, www.bliskiwschodvege.pl/. Open 12:00–22:00; Mon 12:00–21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00–23:00; Sun 12:00–21:00. €€. X­T­U­B­­6

Lokal Vegan Bistro

This humble restaurant run by the ‘Margins’ Social Cooperative has achieved what not long ago was considered by many to be inconceivable: their hearty vegan variations of traditional Polish dishes are as, if not more, delicious than their meat-and-egg-based counterparts. That’s quite an accomplishment in a country that fed itself in ‘milk bars’ not so long ago. Alongside seitan, soy and cabbage ‘cutlets’ on their frequently changing menu, you’ll also find vegan versions of popular dishes from international cuisines, plus a few surprises. Large portions, fresh ingredients and low prices make this a great option for a healthy meal, but it’s also a great place to connect with Warsaw’s activist communities.QG-9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 517 61 51 22, www. lokalveganbistro.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:0020:00. €€. T­U­6

Syrena Irena utensils Polish

Polish food abounds in Warsaw -- you can get pierogi all over the place. But when it comes to really good, really modern Polish food, you have to know where to look and Syrena Irena is the place to start. Syrena Irena By focusing on making really excellent handcrafted pierogi, the chefs of this iconic space have honed their craft to a science. On the menu find a variety of pierogi you won’t find elsewhere—cherries and marzipan, white sausage and marjoram—and then customize that order with any number of toppings from caramalized onion to “mermaid sauce.” It’s named after the iconic Syrena (siren or mermaid) of Warsaw, and this spot has a ton of little modern touches, from the art to the neon signs to the high ceilings. This spot is not only delicious, it’s photo-worthy too! QKrakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, tel. (+48) 535 851 991. Open 09:0020:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00. €€. U­B­6.

The Alchemist Poznańska utensils International

We’ve always loved The Alchemist for their craft beer and cocktail chemistry, but these days the real reason to visit is their award-winning food. While you can get gourmet interpretations of Polish standards, fresh seafood and bar classics like burgers and fish & chips, their specialty is juicy steaks served on hot lava plates, and they have quite the offering! There are tons of different steaks to try, all done very well with gorgeous presentation. The presentation is as sleek and pleasing as the interior design. Perfect for a business lunch, after-work drink, social gathering, romantic date. Also at ul. Grzybowska 5A (p.97).

QF-9, ul. Poznańska 16, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€ 6

U Barssa utensils Polish

The Old Town is packed with places to eat, but this is one of the few truly great. As you walk from the market square into the elegant dining room, you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The signature duck baked with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the Angus steak with green pepper are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, and we have to mention the outstanding wine list. They also have a huge summer garden, so call ahead to reserve your space in this charming place.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. €€€€. X­T­E­6

Fine dining

If you want to splash out on some of Warsaw's finest cuisine, we definitely have you covered - testing the food was our pleasure. Whether you're looking for the right venue to impress a potential client, romantic partner or celebrate any kind of special moment, the following pages will keep you right. Bear in mind that reservations are almost essential in any of these venues.

Elixir by Dom Wódki utensils

Polish

Top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment. At their Vodka Atelier, you can try some 800 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, and flavoured vodkas. Also offered are six different types of Młody Ziemniak vodka (made from young potatoes) with varieties dating from 2017 (49 zł) to 2022 (25zł). The restaurant itself features stunningly presented, contemporary, and takes on Polish classics with a unique food and vodka pairing system! Such a system is unrivaled anywhere in Poland and the world at large, so this spot is an Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map. Check out their lunch offer from MonFri 12:00-16:00. Kitchen open until 22:20QF-5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www.domwodki.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. €€€€. T

KUK Restaurant by Maciej Majewski utensils International

KUK embraces both a natural and local approach to its menu, with an international flair. Their dishes indulge the taste buds with a range of ingredients and products, all sourced from trusted crops and seasonal delights. KUK is part of the 18th-century Branicki-Szaniawski complex, and the restaurant matches both it and the Polish capital’s vibrance. Chef Maciej Majewski challenges the term ‘restaurant’ for his passion project - for him, it’s a celebration of time and cuisine, where imagination knows no bounds, and exceptional dishes are a testament to that philosophy. He embraces the ‘neobistro’ style of dining with a haute cuisine approach. The result is an imaginative and open-minded approach to crafting one-of-a-kind culinary compositions!Qul. Miodowa 6/8, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 511 46 46 45, www.hotelverte.com/kuk. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. X­T­U­E­6

Expect a meal at Strefa Restaurant & Bar to be delicately crafted with the finest, expertly prepared ingredients.

Nova Wola

utensils Polish

Garnering the Grand Award (that is, 5 forks) from the prestigious gastronomic list of Poland 100 Best Restaurants, Nova Wola nails the concept of ‘premium casual’ dining. Residing within the luxury Crowne Plaza Hotel, Nova Wola is complete with an industrial chic interior of polished concrete, dark woods, gold furnishings, lots of glass and big city views. The menu emphasizes simple plates made with high-quality ingredients sourced from local Polish suppliers and foraged in the wild. Local culinary traditions with contemporary flair offer you a choice of rich soups, premium Polish seasoned beef steaks, fish, and amongst others, a special seasonal menu. Plus, they're known for their stellar wine menu (that has garnered lots of attention). Na zdrowie! Read about Nova Wola’s breakfast on p.82 QC-8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 12:30-16:00, 17:00-22:30. €€€. T­U

Prime Cut

utensils International

True culinary innovation exists at Prime Cut, with a unique fusion of New York classics and European flair and a passion for simple yet exquisitely prepared dishes that boast the finest quality ingredients that ensure every bite is a testament to good taste. One of several gastronomic concepts located in Elektrownia Powiśle (p.94), you will enjoy the finest steaks, fresh seafood, and seasonal vegetables. The elegant ambiance, featuring VIP rooms, is perfect for business gatherings or social occasions, while the Cigar Room offers a timeless haven for aficionados to enjoy the world’s finest cigars amidst a rich tapestry of history. Also located at ul. Twarda 18 (E-7).QI-6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 43B, tel. (+48) 730 30 00 65, www.primecut.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 14:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. €€€. X­T­U

ROXX Warsaw Steaks and Seafood utensils European

A culinary gem located in the heart of the capital, This exceptional restaurant, with its surprising flavors, extensive menu, and diverse selection of wines and original cocktails, sets itself apart, making it one of the best dining spots in the city.

ROXX Warsaw is more than just a restaurant - this versatile all-day operation features a menu of iconic pan-European dishes (steaks, seafood, surf&turf and danishes) infused with a modern twist. The addition of a romantic cafe and stylish bar, all within a luxurious art-deco style interior, make for an unforgettable dining experience. The imaginative

culinary offer is complemented by a carefully-curated liquor list. Whether you’re indulging in delicious weekend brunch or a romantic dinner, ROXX promises a unique experience. QG-8, ul. Żurawia

6/12, tel. (+48) 22 420 32 23, www.roxx.pl. Open 12:0023:00; Fri 12:00-01:00; Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:00-22:00. €€€€. X­B­6

STIXX Bar & Grill utensils International

With a prime-cut menu and year-round terrace with stunning views of the capital skyline, there’s a reason why STIXX Bar & Grill is considered one of the best dining experiences in Warsaw! This high-flyin’ restaurant is blessed with a international team of skilled chefs, ready to take you on a culinary adventure around the world. Find an array of beef, tuna tartare, mussles in white wine sauce, foie gras, pad thai and more -- along with STIXX’s signature dish: dry-aged, tender, seasoned beef steaks! Try some delicious food and take in the weekend DJ set and year-round terrace that features gorgeous views of the city.QC-7, Pl. Europejski 4A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 340 40 40, www.stixx.pl Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00; closed Sun. €€€€€. B­E

Strefa Restaurant & Bar utensils International

Nestled within a meticulously restored pre-war tenement house at the intersection of Próżna Street and Grzybowski Square, Strefa effortlessly combines the finest of the gastronomic arts with an elegant decor, and a warm, inviting ambiance, that exudes a timeless charm. With an emphasis on authentic recipes, the menu masterfully blends contemporary culinary trends with traditional flavors, offering a diverse array of global cuisine with a Polish twist.

Renowned for its expertise in fish and seafood dishes, Strefa’s exceptional culinary creations are expertly complemented by an extensive wine selection curated by top sommeliers. Moreover, the restaurant’s bar features a superb collection of worldclass spirits. Celebrated for its impeccable service, Strefa is both a recipient of prestigious awards and a pet-friendly establishment. From its award-winning exterior to the stylishly modern interiors, every detail at Strefa exudes sophistication and elegance, making it a destination of choice for discerning diners.QE-7, ul. Próżna 9, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 255 08 50, www.restauracjastrefa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0020:00. €€€€. T­U­B­6

Thai Thai utensils Thai

Run by Warsaw’s Godfather of Thai cuisine, Surachart Urajaroen, this restaurant is the real deal. The Thai kitchen team stick firmly to tradition, and the spectacular results have earned a Thai Select certificate. Inside the National Theatre, the exterior of hefty, grey stonework gives no inkling of the opulence that awaits. Black walls with Thai designs and gold archways create a calming environment. The dining area also offers several more private spaces, great for business meetings or intimate dinner dates. Business lunch is served Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 45zł. Thai Thai’s Kitchen is open until 22:30 and the restaurant closes at 23:00 on weekdays (it closes at 22:00 on Sundays)! QF-5, Pl. Teatralny 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 601 81 82 83, thaithai.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€.

X­T

U Fukiera utensils Polish

Warsaw’s oldest and most famous restaurant, with a tradition going all the way back to the 16th century. Under the star stewardship of Magda Gessler (of Polish MasterChef fame), this enchanting establishment’s interior is a work of art, bedecked with oil paintings and ornate antiques, creating a fantastic ambience. It’s easy to feel like you’re a part of history when dining here, and the guestbook - with such haughty names as Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson - suggests that indeed you are. Right on the Old Town Square, enjoy the delicious, perfectly-presented food and soak up the regal atmosphere.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. T­6

Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas utensils Japanese

Sometimes stiff formality and pretence go hand in hand with fine dining, and though the food may be great, the overall experience can be a bit awkward or even, ugh...tiring. As such, it’s nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating). Wabu is very much a place for all types of people, from businessmen to couples to tourists and even families. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, that blends in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is extensive and diverse, and includes a special menu for kids, and a mighty lunch offer. Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, www.wabu.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. T­U­6

Food Markets

With outdoor seating and an array of cuisines, Elektrownia’s Food Hall is the place to park yourself under the

The popularity of street food and fast gastro concepts has led to an explosion of food markets and indoor dining halls in Warsaw, offering dozens of diverse eating options. Not only a place to slay your hunger, these modern food markets are also trendsetting urban social spaces, featuring bars and hosting events.

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall

From the outside, it’s obvious that this former power station (p.52) has been given a new boost of energy following a major overhaul. Going beyond an upscale urban shopping mall, Elektrownia also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event spaces. This central food court allows you to choose anything from fries, hot dogs, dim sum dumplings, kebabs, pizza, sushi, curries, Vietnamese, waffles and San Francisco street food. Additionally, there are several more restaurants in the office buildings opposite! You’re spoilt for choice, so let your mood and budget decide (not easy!). Once you’re done dining, check out their five bars, and also keep a regular eye on their events calendar so you don’t miss hip foodie happenings like their ‘Eko Targ’ (Eco Market), selling GMO-free locally-grown produce.QH-6, ul. Zajęcza 2B, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. U­6

Food Hall Browary

Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars, this impressive food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district (p.28). With 13 different contemporary food concepts to choose from - ranging from Silk & Spicy’s authentic Thai cuisine to Dziurka od Klucza’s new panozzo sandwich venture, ‘a’Panu occo?!’ - there are plenty of enticing options, including special breakfast and lunch offers. The focal points are the impressively long Central Bar - well-stocked with beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of legendary local bartender Karim Bibars, and the small stage which hosts DJs, bands and a range of thematic events. Grab a seat at a communal table, a plate of good food, and get socialising.QC-7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 (Browary Warszawskie), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodhallbrowary.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. 6T

sun.

Hala Koszyki

This historic Art Nouveau market hall originally opened in 1906, but was renovated, redeveloped into a modern mixed-use facility full of bars, restaurants, bookstores and designer boutiques, and reopened in 2016. Smashingly popular, drop in to the ground floor dining area to choose from dozens of diverse options, ranging from top-class independent bistros - like Sobremesa Tapas Bar, Port Royal and Zachodni Brzeg - to some of Warsaw’s top name gastro brands, like Ćma and Warszawski Sen. If you want a variety of casual, tasty food, this is the place to go, with everything from fries to burgers to gelato. But there are fancier options to choose from, too (oysters and pizza are easily found and they are a must). This is one of THE places to be seen in the capital - easily accomplished thanks to the open floor plan - sometimes the place is so packed that mere availability and access dictate which places inside that you’re able to patronage. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall, which also features shops downstairs and space for cultural events upstairs. Don’t forget to look up, down and sideways as beautiful details abound!QF-10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00. X­T­U­6

Ogrody Ulricha

Located in the lush green parkland of Warsaw’s Wola District, Ogrody Ulricha (Ulrich Gardens) is a collection of revitalised 19th-century buildings and grounds - the Ulrich Greenhouses and Park, the Daily Garden, Ulrich’s Villa and the Green Cottage - all revived as a charming community complex with the spirit and nostalgia of a bygone era. Once housing a collection of otherworldly plant life, one of two Greenhouses now houses the all-important gastro zone, with 2 central bars, 2 gastronomic points and 6 restaurant concepts. Not only limited to the indoors, the parkland outside will also be made available for those choosing to dine in the open air. Keep in mind, however, that Ogrody Ulricha is not only for dining and drinking. Live music and theatre are set to become common place. In summer, children, young families and the young-at-heart can roll around on the grass outside and take in the green surroundings. While it may have an old soul, Ogrody Ulricha has been amended with modern resources and a 21st-century mindset, continuing the story of this historic area and doing what it has always done best - serving the community as a vibrant public space!Qul. Górczewska 124, MM2, Ulrychów, tel. +48 22 533 40 00, www.ogrodyulricha.pl. Open 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. T­U

Hala Koszyki’s phenomenal urban dining offer - international restaurants, bars cafés and more!

Nightlife in Warsaw

In Warsaw you’re never far from a great night out. If the weather’s warm, simply head to the river. Elsewhere skint students patronise the dive bars of The Pavilions (G-7, courtyards of ul. Nowy Świat 22/28); for a more mature alternative crowd seek out the artsy bars across the river in Praga (p.60); for a lark with the lads, hit the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7). In practice, bars will stay open well past their given hours if business is good, but also bolt the doors early if not. Visit our website to refine your search and see more reviews. Na zdrowie (cheers!)!

The Roots astounds with delicious cocktails (and killer presentation) p. 102

Enklawa Art & Music Club Club

A living legend of the Polish capital that always has a finger on the pulse, Enklawa, located in the very heart of Warsaw, has spent the last 20 years hosting some of the city’s wildest cult dance parties, and, even today, it continues to provide a calendar of hotly-pursued events. Starting on Wednesdays and operating over four nights of the week, this classy premises exudes style and modernity, and its spacious rooms are brought to life every evening with the highest quality sound and lighting systems on offer. With a diverse music cycle that keeps both locals and visitors coming back to be in a space of non-stop good vibes, there’s a reason why Enklawa tops the list as one of Warsaw’s most popular clubs. Don’t believe the hype? Stop by some time and we’ll see you on the dance floor!

QF-6, ul. Mazowiecka 12, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 606 31 11 17, www.enklawa.com

Open Wed, Thu 22:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. X­U­E

The Alchemist Grzybowska Cocktail Bar

We’ve always loved The Alchemist for their craft beer and cocktail chemistry, but these days the real reason to visit is their award-winning food (Gault & Millau 2020). While you can get gourmet interpretations of Polish standards, fresh seafood and bar classics like burgers and fish & chips, their specialty is juicy steaks served on hot lava plates. The presentation is as sleek and pleasing as the interior design. Perfect for a business lunch, after-work drink, social gathering, romantic date... well, we can’t think of any occasion we wouldn’t want to come here for. A top venue, and currently serving out in their amazing garden during the summer months.

QE-7, ul. Grzybowska 5A, MSwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl.

Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. B­6

Bars & Clubs

3/4 Koneser Bar

Cocktail Bar

If you’re eager to experience Polish vodka the right way (sip, don’t shoot!), go straight to the source. Located on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum (p.61), this spectacular bar makes dozens of their own artisanal alcohol infusions - earl grey, beetroot and lemoncake are just a few of their surprising and constantly changing flavours. Sip them straight or in delicious modern cocktails inside the refined post-industrial interior that transports you back to Warsaw’s interwar glory days. The lovely seasonal terrace offers great views of the heart of Praga and they also host live music from time to time. Na zdrowie!QK-2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 52, www.koneserbar.com/. Open 16:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-01:00; closed Mon. Subject to change. U­B­6

Symbol Key

AURA Bar

Cocktail Bar

Chances are you wouldn’t find this place on your own, which is why you should seek it out! Though hardly bigger than a bedroom, the locals are eager to squeeze into this corner bar located in a lovely pre-war residential building. With high ceilings and a beautiful design of oriental patterns, warm lighting and brass fixtures, Aura has a real glow to it and a friendly neighbourhood vibe. What sets it apart however, is the huge selection of bourbons. This is the kind of place where the drinks come in tumblers and the seasonal cocktails are as delicious as the atmosphere. If an ‘Old-Fashioned’ is your go-to bar order, this is your go-to bar, where they serve 11 unique varieties of the classic drink.QG-9, ul. Hoża 27, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 576 36 73 79, www. aurabourbonbar.pl/. Open 17:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 18:0002:00. B­6

Enklawa is where Warsaw finds its rhythm. (p.97).

Cuda

Cocktail Bar

Housed in the former communist party HQ, just next to the statue of General Charles De Gaulle, this 3-level bar was Warsaw’s first multi-tap and boasts an impressive 16 taps pouring craft beers from around Poland and Europe, plus pizza for your late-night feed. The interior design is unobtrusive and kept to a minimum, making for a nice and airy atmosphere, and features three outdoor seating areas. The owners should really be given a special prize for this brilliant initiative; instead, in true Warsaw tradition, they quickly got dozens of copycat bars. Still, we stay true to our first-love multi-tap bar.QH-8, ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 784 48 97 27. Open 12:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. E

El Koktel

Cocktail Bar

Moody and elegant, this sophisticated cocktail bar serves signature drinks with flair. The imaginative menu of classic and modern mixed drinks changes seasonally; during our recent visit the sci-fi/space exploration theme featured delicious drinks with names like ‘Enter the Void’ and ‘Haiku’ and the range of unique ingredients included nutella liqueur, agave nectar, bison grass absinthe and pomegranate tincture. These alcohol alchemists even make their own flavoured gin (cleverly named ‘Gin Dobry’), which you simply must sample by ordering a classic G&T. Also on the menu: wine, craft beer, and antipasti boards. Ring the doorbell to be admitted.A garden opens in either May or June.QG-7, ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 507 45 64 47. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-01:00; closed Mon. B­6

Ether Bar at NYX HOTEL WARSAW

Cocktail Bar

Step onto this 19th-floor terrace bar for a breath of fresh air, and the views might just take it away. Nestled amongst the capital’s soaring skyscrapers, this open-air rooftop lounge features stylish furnishings, classy cocktails to match the scenery, plus occasional live music and DJs. It’s perfectly legal to get this high; in fact, you don’t even need to be a guest of the hip NYX Hotel to lose your head in the clouds. Note that the opening hours are somewhat dependent on the weather. But, because this spot opens in April and operates seasonally, it's the perfect way to kick off spring!QD/E-8, ul. Chmielna 71, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 346 29 00, www.leonardohotels.com/warsaw/nyx-hotel-warsaw. Open 16:0001:00. Operates seasonally from April to mid-October. U­B­E­6

Kufle i Kapsle Cocktail Bar

The name ‘Kufle i Kapsle’ means ‘Beer Mugs and Bottlecaps’ and the interior is a perfect blend of European traditional bar design mingling with Polish features, such as the large tiled heater in the back room. 20 taps are on offer and the bottled beer selection has more variety than a Glaswegian glass recycling bin! Plus, don't miss their outdoor seating starting in May! Expect it to be packed and buzzing from around 17:00 (online reservations possible). 2nd location nearby at ul. Nowy Świat 27 (G-7) (where you can also find a cocktail menu) Third location at 19/21 Popiełuszki Street.QG-8, ul. Nowogrodzka 25, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 886 78 09 37, www.kufleikapsle. pl. Open 15:00-03:00; Fri 15:00-03:00; Sat 14:00-03:00; Sun 14:00-02:00. B­6

Cabaret - Food & Culture

Cocktail Bar

Located in the heart of Warsaw, near Plac Trzech Krzyży, Cabaret Food & Culture is a wonderful, elegant location for dates, friend gatherings and even company meetings. Though it's undergone a recent rebrand to focus a little more on its restaurant aspect, there are still wonderful drinks to be had at the stellar bar. With both Polish and international dishes, live music, an event space and delightful cocktails in an intimate, cozy space, this is one you really need to check out. Consistently enjoyable!QG-8, ul. Nowogrodzka 4, MCentrum, tel. +48 536 97 64 03. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat 10:00-02:00; Sun 10:00-24:00. €€. T­U­E­6

Myata Lounge

Cocktail Bar

Relaxed & business-appropriate during the day, Myata’s sleek, modern interior full of plush love seats is the scene of weekend parties and awesome live music that no one in Warsaw can match in quite the same way. Backed up by an exquisite European food menu, high-quality shisha, and an enticing list of classic and original cocktails, Myata has developed a crowd of devoted regulars that make the place special with their ‘go hard or go home’ attitude. The menu ranges from wasabi shrimp and teriyaki salmon to burgers, and they offer almost 300(!) flavours of shisha. There’s live music every Sunday from 21:00 and also Guinness on draught..QG-8, ul. Żurawia 6, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 534 72 73 25, www. myatawarszawa.tilda.ws/. Open 12:00-01:00; Fri 12:0004:00; Sat 14:00-04:00; Sun 14:00-01:00. X­E

Pepper Events Club

Making its presence known in the Polish capital’s urban jungle, the anomaly that is Pepper Events adds an exotic flair to the higher-class venues of Warsaw. The unique, sophisticated space includes both a euphoric club scene and a restaurant with an indulgent food menu. That’s all amplified with a stunning year-round garden and cocktail bar of the highest calibre, making it an ideal space for an intimate business meeting, a banquet, a product presentation, a large corporate event or even bachelor/bachelorette parties.QF-9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 06 80 68, www. peppernight.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. B­E

Pepper Events turns a regular party into an all-out blast in a stunning space.

Setki Powodów

Cocktail Bar

A recent (and very exciting addition) to Warsaw’s Polish Vodka Museum (p.61), Setki Powodów (Hundreds of Reasons) guarantees musical feasts, dishes out of this world, top-tier drinks, and an almost-constant program of grooving live musicindie rock, jazz, hip hop, experimental, and much more! Furnished in a style reminiscent of the nearby Neon Museum (p.62), this Praga nightspot shows off a concise list of cocktails, flanked by a string of other ‘reasons’ to come here. Consume as you wish, and enjoy the small-but-punchy live music stage in the corner.QK-2/3, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 511 69 29 63, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open Tue, Wed 12:0022:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. U­E

Teatro Cubano Warsaw Club

What’s that warm Caribbean breeze blowing through the centre of Warsaw? Must the blast of fresh air emanating from this sultry, rhythmic Cuban lounge and dance club. With giant palms flanking the entrance, as you enter you are enveloped by the joyful vibes and vibrant blues and yellows of this huge, spacious club with high ceilings and a massive bar at its centre, behind which is the large stage which regularly hosts international touring acts and DJs mixing Latino and pop music. Attracting a young, international crowd of students, locals and travellers, diversity is something PL could use more of, and this boisterous club embraces it. Stop by!QF-5, ul. Fredry 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 538 19 44 94, www.

teatrocubano.com. Open 22:00-03:00; Thu 22:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00. X­E

The Alchemist Poznańska Cocktail Bar

We’ve always loved The Alchemist for their craft beer and cocktail chemistry, but these days the real reason to visit is their award-winning food. While you can get gourmet interpretations of Polish standards, fresh seafood and bar classics like burgers and fish & chips, their specialty is juicy steaks served on hot lava plates, and they have quite the offering! There are tons of different steaks to try, all done very well with gorgeous presentation. The presentation is as sleek and pleasing as the interior design. Perfect for a business lunch, after-work drink, social gathering, romantic date. Also at ul. Grzybowska 5A (p.97).

QF-9, ul. Poznańska 16, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00.

The Roof

Cocktail Bar

Perched on the 21st floor of Warsaw - The HUB, with an enchanting outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Warsaw’s city centre, The Roof offers a captivating setting for enjoying drinks, live music, a delightful dinner, or gathering with friends. A truly sky-high experience, the stunning vistas of the city are perfectly complemented by the bar offer, which invites visitors to explore the exciting and diverse selection of cocktails, and unique concoctions that have been curated to reflect the extraordinary essence of Warsaw’s skyline and capture the spirit of the city in every sip. In line with the Crowne Plaza Hotel, the prestigious name that looks after this magical nest, The Roof floor boasts stylish interiors that contribute to its wonderfully sophisticated atmosphere. The sights are further enhanced by a range of acoustic performances and intimate cultural events that are hosted here, creating an ambience that fosters both relaxation and engagement. Whether you are seeking a memorable night out, a place to enjoy live music, or a spot to savour enticing cocktails while taking in the breathtaking views, this is the one place in Warsaw you need to experience!Qul. Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. +48 881 97 41 44, www. theroofskybar.com. Open 18:00-01:00. U­E­6

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more Cocktail Bar

While the cocktail revolution continues to shake and stir up Warsaw’s drinking habits, some places manage to stand out from the crowd. The ROOTS has, without a doubt, secured a very special place in the hearts of serious cocktail devotees, both local and international. For starters, the bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/mixologist, for which reason you should definitely check out their intriguing collection of vintage and antique ‘tools of the trade’ – the collection of mixers alone already stands at nearly 100 items! Add to this a library of antiquarian books on the subject of bartending/ cocktail mixing and you know you are dealing with some hardcore and very scholarly mixologists. ROOTS is so well-versed in the art of making cocktails, they have enough tricks for two great menus - one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal regional flavours. Food is also available in the form of a Polish fusion menu, which is intriguing enough to at least take a peak at. Quite brilliant!QF-5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 660 333 983, www. theroots.pl/. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri 17:00-02:00; Sat 14:00-02:00; closed Mon, Sun. 6

UPPER DECK Wine & Cocktail Bar

Cocktail Bar

Sophisticated, atmospheric and contemporary, Upper Deck lives up on the perch of Warsaw’s historic food hall, Hala Koszyki (p.95), located in the center of the city. This spot, with warm lighting, sparkling, smoky cocktails and delightful jazz music, offers a exceptional experience for those seeking innovative cocktails and tasty wines. The wines are the best of the best, with an impressive selection of over 70 different labels available at attractive prices, all selected by experienced sommeliers. It’s the perfect destination for enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. Self-described as having a ‘jazz soul’, live music is an important part of the atmosphere, especially on Friday nights when they have live jazz concerts. Ideal for intimate meetings, business gatherings, or groups of friends -- everyone enjoys this spot.

Keep in mind that the entire establishment can be reserved for groups of 40-90 people, making it an ideal choice for hosting training sessions, large parties, company gatherings or more.

The spot is located on the mezzanine and easy access is available via stairs or elevator on the first floor. Once you're done sipping cocktails or wine and taking in some lovely live music, make sure to wander through the Hala Koszyki space -- there's tons to see and do! QF-10, ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), tel. (+48) 507 66 39 75. Open 14:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00-01:00; closed Sun. E

Live music and delicious cocktails can be found at Upper Deck

Shopping in Warsaw

Warsaw offers a wide diversity of shopping experiences, from old school markets to luxury boutiques (primarily along ul. Nowy Świat and ul. Mokotowska: G-7, H-8/9) to some of Central Europe’s most modern shopping malls. For visitors, it’s an opportunity to shop exclusive designer brands, catch bargains on known commodities or find forgotten treasures. Happy hunting!

Chic, and glamorous describe both the jewelry at LILOU and the experience of shopping there.

Alcohol & Tobacco

Alembik

If you’ve just come out of the Polish Vodka Museum in Centrum Praskie Koneser (p.61) with a new appreciation for Poland’s national drink, then right around the corner, in the same building, you will find Alembik, a small but impressively stocked shop where you can purchase your very own vodkas. Here you will find Polish brands such as Luksusowa and Wyborowa, but not only, as they also sell premium whiskeys, cognacs, rums, gins and champagnes. For those with deeper pockets, there is also the opportunity to shop in private in their cosy 2nd room, where you can also enjoy tasting some exclusive products. Classy.QK-2/3, Plac Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 513 28 92 60, www. alembik.com.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon, Sun.

Amber & Jewellery

Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line

This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origincertified by the International Amber Association. Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line. Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 69 61, www.warsawamber.pl Open 11:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-17:00.

LILOU

A phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components to create a unique and personalised piece. The range continues to grow, with the original luxury charm bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes, then have it hand-engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. Also at ul. Francuska 27 (L-7), Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Galeria Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall and Centrum Handlowe Janki.QH-9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilouparis.com. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00*.

Shopping

Fashion & Accessories

RISK made in Warsaw

Founded in 2011 by two friends, RISK Made in Warsaw embodies the concept of ethical fashion done well. From flattering dresses to flowy shirts, chic jackets and more, there literally something for everyone here. The founders say they view clothing in three parts: the materials, the way they’re made, and how they make you feel.

And all three of those aspects are focuses of RISK. With gorgeous, timeless silhouettes for people of all shapes and sizes, as well as precise tailoring, the clothes are guaranteed to make the wearer feel their most confident and beautiful.

The patterns, too, are gorgeous and meaningful, including prints designed based on (for example) traditional Łowicz folk costumes. Another popular print is taken from a typical floor tile design found in old Warsaw tenement homes, making a gorgeous, architectural pattern. Other prints are reminiscent of traditional colors and styles found in countries around South America and Africa. Not only that, but they work with Polish designers who are niche and unique, and their clothing is sewn in Poland using environmentally friendly products and biodegradable materials. The founders say they eschew the typical fast fashion model in favor of production that is hyper-local, and that definitely shows. The clothing itself is created using ecofriendly, low-waste methods. This is ethical fashion at its finest! QUl. Szpitalna  6A, tel. (+48) 882 12 14 44, www.riskmadeinwarsaw.com/pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-19:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs

E-Manufaktura

It's sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. We understand the problem, and it may be the case you get home, only to regret not having bought that sweet little tea cup you had your eye on. Now this is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you'll find it here! The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec, make up the core of what's on offer. It doesn't get more Polish than this. A must-use service. QF-3, ul. Freta 14, MRateusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.e-manufaktura.com. Open 10:00-18:00.

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki

Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. With a mix of cups, plates, bowls and other kitchenware with various colours and designs, you can’t go wrong to buy friends, family, or even yourself one of these classic but quirky items. What’s more, at this location, not only do you get the chance to buy something of your pleasing, but you can join in some workshops (offered Wed-Sat 14:00-20:00) to make and paint anything you want in the studio! The staff speak English and will teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery during your session! QF-8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 11:0019:00; closed Sun.

Smart Kids Store

Smart Kids Store is an extension of the innovative educational center Smart Kids Planet (p.76), and a one-stop-shop that offers a wide range of products and services related to children’s education and development. The wide selection of educational toys and games include interactive and STEM-based toys and puzzles that are designed to support children’s cognitive development and encourage problemsolving and critical thinking skills. The shop also offers a variety of art and craft supplies to help develop creative minds. You can also find a wide range of educational books, workbooks, and activity books, which are perfect for encouraging children to read and develop their language skills.QD-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsstore.pl/. Open 11:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. U

Zakłady Ceramiczne “BOLESŁAWIEC”

The official store of Bolesławiec in Warsaw is an ideal place for buying traditional, high-quality, handdecorated ceramics. A wide selection of dishes, accessories and decorative elements can be found here - as beautiful as they are durable and functional. Each element is hand-formed and then decorated with a unique stamping technique. Attention to detail, the characteristic shade of cobalt, and deep roots in tradition have made Bolesławiec ceramics known not only in Poland but all over the world. This particular store is located in the centre of Warsaw, at the Rondo ONZ metro station, 800m from the central station and the Palace of Culture & Science.QD-7, ul. Prosta 2/14, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 624 84 08, www.zakladyboleslawiec.com. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-16:00; closed Sun.

Shopping

Shopping Malls

Designer Outlet Warszawa

Set inside an impressive collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town, this is a premium outlet mall, with the interior that makes you feel like you’re walking through a fashion high street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 30-70% off on brands like Adidas, Armani, Boss, Calvin Klein, Coccinelle, Gant, Guess, Furla, Karl Lagerfeld, Levi’s, Liu Jo, Longines, Luisa Spagnoli, Michael Kors, Nike, Pinko, Polo Ralph Lauren, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and more. Just 30mins from the city centre and 20mins from Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport (use a zone 2 ticket and get off at ‘Energetyczna 01’).Qul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00*. T­U

Dom Mody KLIF

Klif has been attracting fashion lovers for over 20 years, with locations across Poland. If you think you’ve seen this all before, however, you’re mistaken. This is the capital, after all, and the quality of brands is exceptionally high, not to mention the stunning showrooms inside. Shop top tags like MaxMara, Elisabetta Franchi, PennyBlack, Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld and DM Moda, as well as respected mainstream brands like Olsen and S’Portofino. Another draw is the convenient, easy to get to location - roll in by tram, bus or car. What’s more, anyone can use the services of the pro stylists at FASHION STUDIO.QB-4, ul. Okopowa 58/72, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 535 41 14 58, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00*. Eurospar open Mon-Sat 08:30-22:00; Sun 09:00-20:00*.

*Sunday Shopping in PL

In its effort to get people out of shopping malls and into churches, the Polish government has imposed regulations preventing most businesses from opening their doors on Sundays. Of course, there are exceptions, including 7 special Sundays when shops are open each year, and the rules don’t apply to restaurants, bars, cafes, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, souvenir shops and anywhere the business owner is personally working behind the counter. When you see an asterisk* after the Sunday hours in our guide, that means the venue is closed on Sundays.

Upcoming shopping Sundays: April 28.

Elektrownia Powiśle

When Elektrownia Powiśle (p.52) opened, we can only say we were impressed. The exterior doesn’t look all too big, but once inside you realise it’s much bigger than you’d ever expect! So what’s here?

Imagine this as a multifunctional centre, including sooped up shops completely new to Poland (nay, in Central and Eastern Europe even!) such as Urban Outfitters, True Color, Weekday, COS, Elementy, Paprocki & Brzozowski, Balagan, Galilu, Chosen By, Gasanova and Converse (to name a few), plenty more boutiques, beauty salons, a top floor event space, as well as their awesome gastro and nightlife offer (p.94). You can shop until you drop, then pick yourself up with some great food, all the while being delighted with the look and feel of the place too.

QH/I-6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com.

Elektrownia open Mon-Sun 11:00-21:00 Food Hall open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00

Beauty Hall open Mon-Sat 08:00-20:00, Sun 10:0019:00.

FACTORY Outlet Annopol

This massive outlet mall is closer than you think! Save up to 70% on premium name brands like Adidas, Nike, Ecco, Medicine, Guess, Under Armour, Pepe Jeans, Marc O’Polo, Converse, Vans, Puma, Tefal, Tommy Hilfiger, Smyk, 4F, RTV Euro

AGD and more. To get there take Metro M2 from ‘Świętokrzyska’ to ‘Bródno’ and then change to tram no. 1, 3, 4 or 25 and get off at ‘Toruńska’ or ‘Annopol’. Check jakdojade.pl for live timetables. If you want to drive (and bring your electric car), you’re in luck! They have a special charging station for electric vehicles. Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www.annopol.factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00*. 6

FACTORY Outlet Ursus

This outlet shopping mall southwest of the city centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over regular rack rates. Recognisable brands include Tommy Hilfiger, Marc’o Polo ,BOSS, Nike, Adidas, Guess, Calvin Klein, New Balance, Calzedonia, Lindt, Haribo, Tefal, Ochnik, Wittchen, and many more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can get there quickly by car via the S8 route or Nowolazurowa street. You can also reach it about 30mins by train or bus; check jakdojade.pl for accurate, up-to-theminute connections.QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www.ursus.factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00*. 6

Shopping break! 250 brands, always up to 70% off!

Print space is finite, but the internet is a vast, vacuous void we’ve devoted our lives to filling. If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of places in Warsaw listed on our website: warsaw.inyourpocket.com

Traditional Polish Cuisine by Magda Gessler since 1991

Beautiful, charming, old-style restaurant, perfect for a memorable dinner.

RESTAURANT CATERING EVENTS OCCASIONAL PARTIES

Order from „U Fukiera”, wherever you are.