Krakow In Your Pocket - February - March 2018

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Kraków No. 110, February – March 2018

KL Płaszów Walking Tour p.6 ‘Titanic’ Exhibition Liban Quarry

p.23 p.109

Contents

Kraków

Feature KL Płaszów walking tour

p.6

Leisure

124

What’s On 16

Shopping

128

Polish Food

24

Directory

134

Cafés

28

Hotels

136

Restaurants

32

Maps & Indexes

Nightlife

56

Arrival & Transport

12

Sightseeing 66 Old Town - walking tour of UNESCO treasures 70 Wawel - Royal Castle complex 90 Kazimierz - walking tour of former Jewish district 94 Podgórze - wartime traces and scenic cliffs 102 Nowa Huta - Socialist Realism suburb 110

City Map Old Town Map Kazimierz Map Podgórze Map Nowa Huta Map Street Index Venue Index Features & Categories Index

142 70 94 102 110 144 145 146

Further Afield Wieliczka - medieval salt mine 114 Auschwitz - former Nazi death camp 118 Tarnów - Małopolska’s charming 2nd city 121 iyp.me/polandblog

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App February – March 2018

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Foreword Well, isn’t this lovely. It’s months like February and March that make us wonder if Poland didn’t get its name for having similar atmospheric conditions to other geographic regions referred to as Poles; but then you probably don’t need us to tell you it’s absolutely arctic this time of year. We trust you packed your winter woolies and stopped shaving in September to prepare for the trip. Although it may be cold enough to freeze a lava flow, there is an upside: namely, you’re in one of Europe’s most beautiful and historic cities (UNESCO said so) and nothing looks better on a medieval castle (p.90) than a fresh dusting of snow.

And though Kraków again set a tourist record in 2017 with almost 13 million visitors (bravo, we did our part), you won’t have to worry about them crowding out your camera lens this time of year, so get out and make the most of it.

This issue, in observance of the 75th anniversary of the liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto (p.106), and the establishment of the KL Płaszów concentration camp, we’ve put together a meticulous walking tour of the latter starting on page 6. It’s bleak, but it’s some of our best work, so we hope you’ll put it to good use. As ever, let us know what you think by leaving your comments on our website at iyp.me/krakow, and help us out by completing our readership survey (see below). Enjoy Kraków.

A true ‘man without a country’ in the current political climate, Garrett Van Reed is a native of Bucks County, Pennsylvania, who has been living in and writing about Kraków for over a decade.

He enjoys exploring his adopted city, unpacking its complex history, and introducing its best attributes to those who visit.

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E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

MOBILE | ONLINE | PRINT

COVER STORY This issue’s outstanding cover photo - taken in Liban Quarry (p.109) and capturing the spires of St. Joseph’s Church and Wawel - was taken by Przemek Czaja. See more of his images at ul. Kanonicza 5 (I-7) and online at fb.com/MadeinKrakow.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 20,000 copies published every 2 months Sales Consultant: Monika Szymanek: (+48) 668 876 351 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska Stopka (+48) 882 079 723 Writer & Editor: Garrett Van Reed Events Editor: Emilia Meres Research: Aleksandra Mańkut, Patrycja Ples, Gabriela Mańkut Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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4 Kraków In Your Pocket

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Ruins of the Jewish funeral parlour (p.9) with the ominous ‘Grey House’ (p.10) in the background. © OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

PŁASZÓW

New Podgórze Cemetery

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Bonarka Geological Reserve

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KAM IEŃS K IE G O

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former territory of the camp former Jewish cemeteries former watchtower former camp gate historical info point monument viewpoint

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Liban Quarry

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KL Płaszów It’s hard to go anywhere in Poland without being reminded of one of the darkest chapters in the history of humanity, and Kraków, for all of its beautiful and intoxicating diversions, really shouldn’t be any different. While thousands of tourists use Kraków as a jumping-off point for visiting Auschwitz, few seem to realise that Kraków actually has a former concentration camp in its own backyard. Across the river, deep in Podgórze, a large the tract of land stands undeveloped and largely unvisited, despite being in one of the city’s most desirable commercial and residential areas – alongside a major thoroughfare (ul. Wielicka), across from a major shopping mall (Bonarka) and a short walk from a major tourist attraction (Krakus Mound), no less. This is the former site of ‘Konzentrationslager Plaszow bei Krakau’ - the Nazi German concentration camp in Płaszów, today a wild, uneven expanse of dirt, grass, weeds and stone, which until recently gave little indication of its own existence, let alone the story of its wartime history.

If you think you aren’t familiar with this story, you probably are. It was here that many of the real-life events Steven Spielberg’s blockbuster film Schindler’s List took place.

While Schindler’s factory opened to the public as a museum in 2010 (p.105), the site of the former Płaszów concentration camp has remained largely in the same state it was left by the Nazis when they abandoned it over 70 years ago.

In the absence of any gallery space or artefacts, Płaszów is not a museum (yet - plans have been made to create one). In contrast to Auschwitz, there are no professional tour guides here, no headsets, no multimedia displays, no instructions or design for how to experience the space (except those in this guidebook). In that sense Płaszów is more of a pilgrimage than a destination, and offers to those who walk its obscure paths the opportunity to engage the past without any pressure or pretence. This is a place where the lives of thousands of people came to an end; a mass cemetery of unmarked graves; the most horrific place in Kraków; and also the most peaceful.

HISTORY Before World War II, Kraków was home to some 65,000 Jews, who once under Nazi occupation (beginning in September 1939) faced almost immediate persecution. Forced ‘resettlement’ (largely to labour camps in the east) began in late 1940 and by the time of the establishment of the Kraków Ghetto in March 1941, the Jewish population had been reduced to some 16,000 individuals crammed into a 20 hectare (50 acre) space in Podgórze (see p.106 and read our online feature: iyp.me/krakowghetto). In early 1942 the Nazis began to initiate Hitler’s ‘Final Solution,’ ramping up terror in the Kraków Ghetto with increased round-ups, deportations and street executions that resulted in the gradual reduction of the size and population of the ghetto.

At the same time, the building of the Płaszów camp (which would precipitate the ghetto’s liquidation) was underway on the other side of the Krzemionki hills which overlooked the iyp.me/polandblog

ghetto. Only four kilometres from Kraków’s market square, the site was chosen for its proximity to a handy railroad station, existing labour camp in the nearby Liban quarry (p.109) and its convenient location on top of two Jewish cemeteries – both of which were levelled, with the shattered tombstones used to cobble the lanes of the camp and whole tombstones used as pavers to create the main road. This was standard Nazi practise for humiliating and terrorising their victims.

This is the most horrific place in Kraków; and also the most peaceful.

First established as a forced labour camp in the summer of 1942, Płaszów soon became a favoured execution site for the Nazis as cattle cars full of children, the elderly and infirm were sent from the ghetto only to be systematically murdered and fill mass graves at the camp. Built with the sweat of slave labour, from autumn 1942 all those deemed ‘fit to work’ commuted every day from the ghetto to participate in the construction of their future prison, and from January 1943 many no longer returned to the ghetto, but stayed in the unfinished camp barracks. When Amon Goeth took over as KL Płaszów Camp Commandant he wasted little time, speeding construction of the camp and liquidating the Kraków Ghetto only a month later. On March 13th and 14th, 1943, some 6,000 Jews were permanently transported from the ghetto to Płaszów; 3,000 were sent by cattle car directly to the gas chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau, and some 1,000-2,000 (accounts vary) others were shot in the street, their bodies later transported to Płaszów and buried in mass graves.

After Goeth’s arrival, Płaszów developed rapidly, becoming a destination for many Jews and political prisoners from southern Poland and beyond. Conditions were abysmal; following the liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto the average barracks contained 150 inmates in a space of about 80 metres, and by the summer of 1943 the number of inmates had ballooned to over 12,000. At its height in 1944 it is estimated that there were 25,000 prisoners interred within the camp, which covered some 81 hectares (200 acres) surrounded by four kilometres of electrified barbed wire, and guarded by twelve watchtowers equipped with machine guns and spotlights.

Wartime view of the camp from one of the watchtowers.

Courtesy of IPN Kraków

February – March 2018

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KL Płaszów As the camp expanded, separate living quarters were established for the men and women, Poles and Jews, as well as an administrative sector for the SS officers. The camp also included a large assembly square, hospital, mess hall, isolation cells, stables, bathhouse, bakery and the various workshops where inmates worked extremely long hours without rest or enough food to stave off starvation.

In addition to the many on-site workshops, inmates also provided free labour to several local factories, Oskar Schindler’s enamelware factory in Podgórze among them.

Slave labour or not, having such a job (which provided a small amount of security to many Jews who were quite skilled) was certainly preferable to not having one, and immensely better than working in one of the two limestone quarries located at Płaszów, which was essentially a death sentence; the average life expectancy for quarry workers was a mere matter of weeks. Prisoners also faced death from disease (typhus and malaria were rampant in the camp), starvation, and the cruelty of their captors. The Płaszów camp and its staff, led by Amon Goeth - who took pleasure in arbitrarily murdering the inmates, made themselves famous for their sadistic treatment of the camp’s prisoners. Personal accounts from Płaszów portray Goeth as a mass murderer instructing his staff to make sport out of the suffering and execution of the inmates.

From January 1944, Płaszów was officially designated as an independent concentration camp with satellite camps in Wieliczka and Mielec. Jews from smaller camps and ghettos that were being liquidated across Poland, Czechoslovakia, Hungary and Romania were sent to Płaszów, however many of them never made it inside the camp. Covered transport trucks full of Jews arrived several times a week and were taken directly to one of two mass execution sites where the condemned were shot, thrown into a mass grave and covered in dirt and lime, layer upon layer. Plans to install a crematorium at the camp were drawn up but never carried out, with the efficiency of Auschwitz-Birkenau in this regard – to which many transports from Płaszów were sent – likely being a factor.

Calculating the number of people who lost their lives at the camp is impossible; a rough estimate of the number of prisoners interred here over its less-than-two-year history would be in the neighbourhood of 150,000, but Nazi records fail to give us anything more than a speculative guess.

Liquidation of the camp began in early January 1945, with the last prisoners leaving on death marches to Auschwitz; those who reached it were killed in the gas chambers immediately upon arrival. As the Soviet Army approached Kraków the camp was completely dismantled, and the Germans exhumed the primary mass graves, burned the bodies and spread the ashes all over the site in an effort to hide their crimes. What the Soviets saw upon arrival in 1945 doesn’t differ that much from what see when visiting today - a barren field.

Approximately 2,000 Poles and Jews who passed through Płaszów are known to have survived the war; 1,000 of these were the ‘Schindler Jews’ who escaped from Kraków to Brunnlitz before the war’s end.

8 Kraków In Your Pocket

WHAT TO SEE Today almost nothing remains of the sprawling 80-hectare concentration camp in Płaszów – a district of Podgórze. In comparison to other Nazi prison camps, Płaszów was extremely well dismantled and has been the subject of very little historical excavation or on-site documentation until only recently (in summer 2017 archaeological works were undertaken in several parts of the camp). Those private homes which were commandeered by the Nazis and incorporated into KL Płaszów were returned to their owners after the war and today sit on the fringes of the former camp as inauspiciously as any other homes in the area. Large apartment blocks have been built on top of other parts of the former camp. As a result it is very difficult to grasp the scope of the camp or imagine what it looked like during the war, though an outdoor exhibit of 19 archival photographs with brief historical information now offer visitors some clues about the camp’s layout. Installed in November 2017, these sparse photo plaques are the first exhibits on the territory of the camp, which is overseen by the Kraków History Museum. [Plans for a permanent exhibit on the camp’s history are in development.]

With the exception of the new photo plaques, visitors are mostly left to their own imaginations and private thoughts while walking through the grounds, keeping their eyes peeled for traces of the past. Several memorials, monuments and points of interest do exist, and we have tried to make them easier to find by creating the map on page 6. We encourage visitors to make the walk from the north side of the camp to the large, easily visible monument to its victims on the southern side, taking in as many of these sites as possible en route. As you do, of course, bear in mind that though the area looks like little more than a neglected public park, this is actually a sacred place of remembrance. In addition to whatever remains exist from the two Jewish cemeteries once located on this site, it is speculated that the remains of 8,00010,000 Płaszów prisoners are still located within the area of the camp. As a few signs near the edges of the camp clearly state: “Please respect the grievous history of this site.”

GETTING TO PŁASZÓW Due to its size, there are several ways and locations from which to access the territory of the former Płaszów camp. For the purposes of the prescribed route, we recommend taking tram numbers 3, 6, 11, 13 or 24 to the ‘Cmentarz Podgórski’ stop, from which you are only a short walk from the Grey House. After getting off the tram walk south (away from the centre) down ul.

Wielicka (the main road) and after 300 metres(/3mins) make a right onto ul. Jerozolimska. 100 metres later you will have arrived at what was once one of the main entrance gates to the camp, located just before the former Guardhouse; a sign on the right side of the road let’s you know you have arrived at the area of the camp.

Alternatively, if you have a car, there is free public parking located right near the Grey House on ul.

Abrahama, just off of ul. Wielicka. iyp.me/krakow

KL Płaszów Across the street from the Guardhouse and SS Club stood the horseshoe-shaped SS Headquarters, with a courtyard used for assemblies. Two recently placed historical markers here show photos of the SS Headquarters and main entry gate of the camp.Qul. Jerozolimska 8 & 10.

The remains of the storehouses, just outside the camp gates.

1 STOREHOUSES & MAIN GATE Upon the approach to the camp down ul. Jerozolimska, one encounters new apartment blocks and then older residential buildings along the left side of the road, before several long ruins appear along the right side. These creepy crumbling buildings, located just outside the official territory of the camp, were sorting stations and storehouses for clothing, cargo and confiscated possessions of the prisoners who arrived to KL Płaszów by train - the tracks of which ran right past here between the road and the ruins to terminate inside the camp. Just beyond the ruins you’ll find the ominous sign which announces you have arrived at the territory of the camp, and more or less marks the main entrance gate of the camp. It was through this gate that those ‘saved’ from the liquidation of the ghetto in March 1943 entered the camp, as did all subsequent transports of new prisoners to KL Płaszów.

2 GUARDHOUSE & OFFICERS’ CLUB While most buildings associated with the camp were demolished near the end of the war, two pre-war buildings just inside the gates remain standing on the left side at ul.

Jerozolimska 8 and 10. Though since renovated, altered and no longer retaining the appearance they originally had, these two connected buildings once held the camp’s main guard post, telephone systems and radio broadcasting systems. For a brief period they also served as camp commandant Amon Goeth’s quarters, before being converted into a clubhouse for SS officers, whose extensive barracks were located just down the street - essentially next door and across from the Grey House; a long, colourful communist-era block of apartments stands there today.

Rubble from the once-grandiose Jewish pre-burial hall.

iyp.me/polandblog

3 JEWISH FUNERAL PARLOUR RUINS Just past the Guardhouse and SS Officers’ Club on the right side of the road is a footpath directly into the camp along what was once the dividing line between two Jewish cemeteries that existed here before the war. Immediately visible is an extensive pile of grey rubble - the remains of the Old Podgórze Jewish Cemetery’s magnificent preburial hall. Built between 1920 and 1932 in Byzantine style, this monumental building featured a 25-metre main dome with smaller side domes, and was the pride of the local Jewish community. Inside were mortuaries, rooms for cleaning and preparing bodies, prayer rooms and rooms for funeral ceremonies. From the start the Germans used it as stables for horses, cows and pigs, essentially destroying the grandeur of the building. When found to be obstinately standing in the path of the train tracks the Germans wanted to extend into the centre of the camp, the building was demolished with flair in several stages, for the amusement of SS officials, local authorities and other guests of Camp Commandant Amon Goeth, who made a public spectacle of the whole thing.

Rediscovered pre-war Jewish graves.

4 FORMER JEWISH CEMETERY GROUNDS One of the main areas of recent restoration work in the camp has been that of the two pre-war Jewish cemeteries located here: The Old Cemetery of the Podgórze Jewish Community with its monumental funeral parlour, established in 1887 (when Podgórze was an independent city); and the smaller New Jewish Cemetery, established in 1932 (after integration with Kraków) just north of it.

Landscaping work, which had not been carried out in decades, recently revealed the broken stone slabs of dozens of forgotten Jewish graves only a short walk northwest from the funeral parlour ruins in the New Jewish Cemetery. Unfortunately, the lack of headstones - which were used to pave the main streets of the camp - make it impossible to identify any of the graves, with the exception of the surprisingly well-preserved grave of a certain Chaim Jakub Abrahamer (d. 1932); see if you can find it.

February – March 2018

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KL Płaszów The top of the hill just a short walk north from the surviving graves offers a panoramic vantage point over the camp stretching to the south. The landscaped area stretching east to west before you is the area of the former Old Podgórze Jewish Cemetery. Recent excavations have helped to outline the area of the large assembly square in the middle, which was built directly over a mass grave from the early days of the camp. The Germans operated a steam shovel here, digging two massive graves in March 1943. The bodies of the thousands murdered during the liquidation of the ghetto were dumped here, and thousands more deemed a hindrance to the productivity of the camp, including many women and children, were forced to undress here and face the pit, before they were shot in the head. According to eyewitnesses, dozens were murdered at this site daily until the summer of 1943, when Hujowa Górka on the southern side of the camp became the preferred site for executions, the graves were leveled, and the camp assembly square was built over top of them. About 100 metres long, it was on this sqaure that work briefings, ‘health inspections’ and dreaded selections took place. The barracks for Polish prisoners stood just on the left side of the assembly square, and rows of barracks for Jewish prisoners stood on the right side, then followed by utility buildings and a hospital.

5 GREY HOUSE (SZARY DOM) Built in the 1920s, the infamous ‘Grey House’ originally belonged to the Jewish Community as an administrative and residential building associated with the cemetery alongside it. During the war it performed the same function for the SS. It was here that Camp Commandant Amon Goeth had his office, from which he was known to take potshots at the prisoners working nearby (this was explicitly depicted in Schindler’s List, with the historical discrepancy that Grey House was used as the set for Goeth’s Villa, not office). Grey House also served as lodgings for the camp’s SS officers, among them Hujar, Zdrojewski, Landsdorfer, Ekert and Glaser who were known for their cruelty. A house of horrors for the inmates of KL Płaszów, the building held solitary confinement cells, including ‘standing bunkers’ - tiny cells not large enough to sit in - in the basement.

Survivors of the camp reported that few inmates who

The Grey House.

10 Kraków In Your Pocket

entered the house ever came out again. Today the Grey House is one of the only buildings connected with the former concentration camp still standing, and remains generally unaltered since the war. Plans are underway to eventually open it to the public in the form of a museum.

Qul. Jerozolimska 3.

6 SARAH SCHENIRER HEADSTONE Just beside the Grey House is a paved walkway leading to the modern, restored gravestone (erected in 2005) of Sarah Schenirer (1883-1935), whose original headstone in the New Jewish Cemetery was destroyed, like all others, when the camp was built. A pioneer of Jewish education for girls, in 1917 Schenirer founded the Beth Jacob School at ul. Stanisława 10 (I-9) – the first religious school for girls in Kraków, which became the model for her network of Jewish schools all over Poland. Over 250 such schools with almost 40,000 students were established in Poland just during her lifetime, with many such schools in Israel, the United States and elsewhere today.

The opening to an air-raid shelter dug by Płaszów inmates.

7 MONUMENT TO THE VICTIMS OF SEPTEMBER 10, 1939 Erected in 1984, this small monument is a memorial to the victims of the first mass execution in Kraków carried out by the Nazis. An act of retaliatory repression against the locals, on September 10, 1939 13 random Poles from the area were arrested and shot by the wall of the Jewish cemetery in reaction to an incident in which unknown perpetrators stole sugar from a waggon at the Płaszów train station. The victims were then secretly buried here in a grave so shallow that their families accidentally discovered it only months later.

This memorial stands more or less in the area of one of the camp’s two quarries, the excavations of which - now covered in vegetation - can be seen just beyond the marker.

Operation of the quarry began in 1943, with prisoners literally worked to death extracting the rock and gravel which was used for the camps roads and facilities. The stone was placed in waggons and hauled by dozens of women pulling ropes to move it along a narrow-gauge train track.

A close inspection of the quarry cliffs reveals two small air raid shelters here carved into the rock by the prisoners. iyp.me/krakow

KL Płaszów 8 RED HOUSE (GOETH’S VILLA) During German occupation Ulica Heltmana, running along the eastern edge of the camp, was known as ‘SS-strasse’ as it was here that the Nazi officers had their quarters, including camp commandant Amon Goeth’s villa at number 22.

Known as the ‘Red House,’ the building was later returned to the family that owned it before the war; in 2015 it was sold to a private investor who has been carrying out a full renovation of the residential building, with no public acknowledgement of its legacy.Qul. Heltmana 22.

9 ‘H GÓRKA’ A modest wooden cross crowned with barbed wire marks the area of one of KL Płaszów’s most notorious mass execution sites. Dubbed ‘Hujowa Górka’ by the camp’s inmates, the name is a vulgar bit of Polish word play taken from the name of the SS officer who ordered the first executions here (Albert Hujar) and the Polish word for the male member; a print-friendly translation would be ‘Prick’s Hill.’ Known as ‘Hujar Hill’ or ‘H-Hill’ in English, the site was hardly a hill at all, but actually a former military rampart with a huge hexagonal pit measuring 50 metres in circumference and 5m deep. Victims were told to undress before being shot in groups and stacked in layers - alternating head to toe and sprinkled with dirt and lime. The first victims were Jews liquidated from the ghetto in Bochnia in either late summer 1943, and executions were carried out almost daily until mid-February 1944 when it basically reached capacity, was leveled off and covered with barracks for the ‘interim camp’ of prisoners flooding in from camps evacuated in the east.

Executions were then moved to ‘C Dołek’ until the war’s end.

10 ‘C DOŁEK’ The third of KL Płaszów’s mass execution sites was an abandoned field rampart built by the Austrians in the late 1800s as part of the city’s defensive fortifications. Like ‘H Górka’ it also consisted of a large hexagonal crater, the definition of which can still be seen today. This dreaded site also earned the naughty (and extremely vulgar) nickname ‘Cipowy Dołek’ in the pitch black humour of the prisoners, the meaning of which imaginative readers can infer by switching the sounds in the phrase ‘Hunt Cole;’ as such it is commonly abbreviated as ‘C Dołek.’ In addition to camp prisoners, Polish prisoners brought here from Montelupich Prison and the Gestapo Prison on Pomorska Street (p.89) were also shot en masse, in plain view of inmates toiling in the camp’s workshops. Upon execution, the bodies were immediately incinerated by Jewish prisoners, using wood from the adjacent carpenter’s shop.

Between this site and ‘H Górka’ it is impossible to know exactly how many people were executed in this part of the camp. Estimates range from 10,000 to 5,000, with 8,000 as the most commonly cited estimate. In the summer of 1944, as the Soviet Army approached Kraków, the Nazis undertook the excavation of both mass graves and burned the bodies to hide their crimes. The operation took two entire months and eyewitnesses report that 17 truckloads of human ashes were spread over the site of the camp before it was abandoned by the Nazis. iyp.me/polandblog

The ‘Memorial of Torn-out Hearts’ at C Dołek.

Today several memorials can be found at Cipowy Dołek, the most obvious of which is the imposing ‘Memorial of TornOut Hearts.’ Designed by Witold Cęckiewicz and unveiled in 1964, this monolithic stone memorial depicts five figures (representing the five countries of Płaszów’s victims) with heads bent and a horizontal crack running across their chests, symbolising their abruptly ended lives. The large Polish inscription across the back of the monument reads, “To the memory of the martyrs murdered by the Nazi perpetrators of genocide in the years 1943-45.”

Near its base are three other monuments: the furthest from the rampart was placed in 2012 to honour members of the Home Army murdered at the camp; a low-lying plaque placed in 2000 is dedicated to the Hungarian Jewish women processed in Płaszów on their way to their deaths in Auschwitz; and a large stone obelisk on the rampart itself was placed by Kraków’s Jewish community to commemorate all the Jewish victims of the camp. The last line of the long text on the latter reads, “In memory of those murdered, whose final scream of anguish is the silence of this Płaszów graveyard.”

REMEMBRANCE MARCH 11.03 12:00 » REMEMBRANCE MARCH

Each year this remembrance march commemorates the Cracovian Jews murdered during the Holocaust, all those who perished in the Kraków Ghetto, during its liquidation on the 13th and 14th of March 1943, and in the Płaszów concentration camp. This year, the 75th anniversary of the liquidation of the Jewish Ghetto in Kraków, the event will be held on Sunday, March 11th. At noon an official ceremony will take place at Plac Bohaterów Getta - the ghetto’s central public square and place from which deportations took place, before the march route leads towards the site of the former Płaszów concentration camp. Along the way it will stop at the fragment of the original ghetto wall on ul. Lwowska, and finally end up at the memorial at Płaszów at about 13:15, where Kaddish will be recited for all the victims. A free bus for participants returns to Plac Bohaterów Getta at 13:45.QL‑9, Plac Bohaterów Getta, www.jewishfestival.pl/pl/marsz-pamieci.

February – March 2018

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Arrival & Transport

The gleaming new passenger terminal at Kraków Airport| photo courtesy of the Airport.

Kraków is well-connected regarding transport, with a new airport just 17km west of the centre, a recently modernised joint train and bus station on the edge of the Old Town, and some of Poland’s better roads connecting it to Katowice, Wrocław and Berlin to the west, Tarnów and Rzeszów to the east, Kielce and Warsaw to the north and Budapest to the south. The city also boasts a comprehensive and easy-to-use public transportation system, which some visitors won’t even find necessary thanks to most attractions being within easy walking distance of one another (not to mention walking being one of the best ways to enjoy Kraków).

In this section you’ll find all you need to know about getting in and out of Kraków, as well as around the city with general ease.

BY PLANE KRAKÓW AIRPORT Located 17km west of the city centre, Kraków Airport was the subject of a one billion PLN investment, which resulted in the opening of a brand-new passenger terminal in September 2015. Boasting the full services and amenities of a modern airport, the new terminal is connected directly to parking and train transport to the centre, and inside you’ll find ATMs and currency exchange, tourist information, car rental desks, restaurants and duty-free shops, a chapel, business lounges and VIP services. Despite increases in volume, getting through check-in and security at Kraków Airport is still relatively speedy compared to most airports.

12 Kraków In Your Pocket

GETTING TO/FROM THE AIRPORT: The best way to get between the airport and Kraków’s Old Town is by train; however current work on the rails has resulted in irregular service for the foreseeable future.

Trains to the airport typically run at least once every half hour between 04:00 and 24:00, but now some of those connections have been replaced by buses. Check rozkladpkp.pl for exact connections and departure times, as trains and buses depart from different locations. All trains to the airport depart from platform 3 of Kraków’s train station, and drop off at the new ‘Kraków Lotnisko/Airport’ station, which is connected directly to the terminal via a skywalk; journey time is about 20mins. Direct buses depart from the ‘Dworzec Główny Wschód’ bus stop on the east side of Kraków Głowny (L-3) and drop you off directly in front of the terminal; journey time is about 37mins. Tickets for either are 9zł, and can be bought directly on-board.

Be aware that not all buses departing from the airport back to Kraków are direct. Bus 208 makes the same journey once an hour, while bus 252 runs between the airport and ‘Os. Podwawelskie’ every 30mins with central stops at Cracovia Błonia (G-6), Jubilat (G-7) and Centrum Congresowe ICE (H-9). Night bus 902 also makes the trip from the airport to the main station with hourly departures beginning at 23:25. These regular commuter buses all make stops, adding time to the trip, and require a 4/2zł single journey fare, which can be bought from the ticket machine at the bus-stop or on-board the bus. All leave from directly outside the terminal and exact bus times and routes can be checked online at mpk.krakow.pl or krakow.jakdojade.pl. iyp.me/krakow

Arrival & Transport AIRPORT TAXIS: The airport has its own ‘Krakow Airport Taxi’ service with vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrance. The idea is that this ‘trusted’ service offers a fixed price from the airport to the Old Town, with no monkey business and no night time price hikes. In reality, this service is fleecing people by protecting its ridiculously high prices. If you go more than 15km the ‘fixed’ price jumps from 69zł to 89zł, so expect to pay 89zł unless your hotel is en route on the outskirts of the city centre. We advise confirming the fare for the 25-35min journey beforehand, and trying to split the cost with other travellers in the same situation.

Conversely, fares from the Old Town back to the airport range from only 35-70zł depending on time of day, and whether you call ahead or hail one in the street. Use our Taxi listings (p.15) and you should be able to negotiate a daytime fare as low as 40zł from the Old Town. That’s a huge difference.Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58 00, www.krakowairport.pl.

BY BUS KRAKÓW BUS STATION Although somewhat integrated into the Kraków Glówny underground transportation centre, Kraków retains its own semi-separate bus station, located directly east of Galeria Krakowska and the train platforms. Recently ‘modernised’ (codeword for ‘filled with commercial shopping space’), the station comprises two floors with access to two levels of bus departure gates. Inside the top floor of the bus station proper you’ll find ticket windows (open 07:00 - 19:45; tickets can also be bought downstairs at the -1 level 05:00 - 21:30), food vendors, currency exchange (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and information point (open 07:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00). When the main hall is closed between 22:00 and 06:00, a separate night time waiting room is available with access to the toilets and left luggage lockers.

Those arriving to Kraków by bus will find taxis nearby on both the upper and lower floors, as well connections to public transport nearby. Located within easy walking distance of most Old Town attractions, unfortunately the most direct way to the market square is underground through the Kraków Główny train and transit centre; follow the clearly marked signs for ‘Stare Miasto’ (Old Town) or ‘ul. Lubicz.’

Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains, while mini-bus is actually your best option for getting to some popular nearby destinations like Wieliczka and Niepołomice. [Note that many mini-buses leave not from the bus station, but from the bus lot across from Galeria Krakowska at the corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (K-4).] For short day excursions or bus departures from Kraków to other destinations, the journey planning website e-podroznik.pl is your friend.QL‑4, ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.mda.malopolska.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

The easiest way to get to Nowa Huta.

vereonique-mergeau, flickr

While Krakow has no underground metro system it does have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from 05:00 - 23:00, with night trams and buses continuing less frequently after that. Check official timetables and network maps online at mpk.krakow. pl (which has English functionality), or figure out how to get from point A to point B via jakdojade.pl - an invaluable navigation site and transport app. Seriously, this service is why we no longer find it useful to print a tram map in our guide.

Transport tickets can be purchased from the handy ticket machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board most trams and buses, or from the driver immediately on boarding if there is no ticket machine.

Note that the ticket machines at stops take bills and bank cards, but most of those on board trams and buses take coins only, so have some change handy.

Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed, allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within the alloted time. The cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a cost of 2.80zł. By our estimation, this is about the time it should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic, and ideal for travel around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgórze. If you’re going outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example), we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80zł. 1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend family passes for 16.00zł are also options. Note that those over the age of 70 ride for free, as do kids until age 4 (ages must be proven with ID). ISIC and Euro‹26 Student cards are valid for transport ticket discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26.

Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket onboard. Beware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing out costly fines to those without valid tickets, and are notoriously unsympathetic towards tourists. Seriously, riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Kraków.

February – March 2018

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Arrival & Transport

BY TRAIN KRAKÓW GŁÓWNY TRAIN STATION Following a 130 million PLN modernisation project, Kraków Główny - the catch-all title of the city’s vast underground transportation centre - offers easy transfers between train, bus and tram transport. Of course the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall is also cleverly integrated, and along with modern conveniences like waiting rooms, escalators and elevators, you’ll also find plenty of additional consumer opportunities, including cafes, supermarkets, souvenir shops, bookstores and more. With tunnels, stairs and signs leading off in every direction, it’s all quite confusing (erm, we mean, modern!), but fear not - IYP will help you sort it out.

SERVICES: Pretty much everything the modern traveller could ever expect or desire can be found somewhere inside the sprawling, but spiffy facilities of the Kraków train station. In addition to being fully handicap-accessible, there are also special paths for the blind, plus SOS call boxes if you get lost and can’t find your way out for several days. 24 ticket windows (some open 24-hours), plus several automated ticket machines (in English) throughout the station limit the possibility of long queues. The station is wifi-enabled, there are several waiting areas (including a place for first-class ticket holders to quarantine themselves), a tourist information office (open 07:00 - 21:00), currency exchange, luggage lockers, showers, and dozens of food and refreshment opportunities, not to mention the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN: Conveniently situated at the north-east edge of the Old Town, Kraków Główny is within easy walking distance of most Old Town accommodation, making trams and taxis largely unnecessary. If you’re travelling further than you’d care to walk, use krakow.jakdojade.pl to navigate yourself there via public transport; you can catch trams to Kazimierz (number 19 in the direction of ‘Borek Fałęcki’ stops at ‘Miodowa’ (K-8) in Kazimierz, for example) and other parts of the city by following signs underground to ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel.’ Further tram stops are located just outside the station exits. To skip that trouble however, when you disembark your train immediately head up rather than down from the platform and you’ll find yourself on the top floor parking garage where taxis are waiting to whisk you away.

14 Kraków In Your Pocket

If you opt to walk - and we encourage you to do so, wandering into the Old Town is dreamy - you’ll find that getting out of the station can be a bit of a challenge.

There are at least four exits and it’s wise to choose the correct one, based on where you want to go. Following signs to ‘ul. Pawia’ will lead you straight into the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall (in the words of Admiral Ackbar: “It’s a traaap!”). Signs to ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ or ‘ul. Bosacka’ will put you on the east side of the transport complex (further from the market square). If you want to head straight to the market square (do it, it’s only 10mins away!) it is easier to take the stairs down from the platforms to the old ‘Magda’ tunnel, rather than the escalators into the new complex. Once in the tunnel there is a staircase just after platform 1 that will lead you to daylight. If you end up in the new main complex, follow the clearly marked signs to ‘Stare Miasto’ (Old Town) or ‘ul. Lubicz’ to escape. Once outside, cross the plaza in front of the old station building (Galeria Krakowska is on your right) to the Andels Hotel and follow the crowds through the underpass (K-4); bear right and enjoy a stroll through the Planty Park for two blocks before making a left on Floriańska Street at the Barbican (J-4) and you’re on the ‘Path of Kings’ to the market square. You’ve arrived.

DEPARTING BY TRAIN: With the train station completely underground, there’s no clear-cut main entrance, but rather several ways to enter.

Basically it is directly underneath the train platforms and bus station (L-4), so use those as your geographical targets and you’ll find your way; you can also cut through Galeria Krakowska to get there.

Easily accessed by public transport, there are tram stops all around the train station: ‘Dworzec Główny’ (just south of the station, K-5), ‘Dworzec Główny Zachód’ (just west of the Galeria Krakowska and the station, K-4), ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel’ (basically inside the station, K-4, follow signs to the platforms) and ‘Dworzec Główny Wschód’ (just east of the bus station and main entrance to the station, L-3). All of these are perfectly good options, it just depends where you are coming from. Again, your best bet is to have krakow. jakdojade.pl plot your course to the train station from wherever you happen to be in town.

Once you’re there, station departures (odjazdy) are listed on yellow timetables, arrivals (przyjazdy) are the white ones; check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English language functionality, or try the journey-planning website e-podroznik.pl. If you want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from the conductor, but expect a surcharge.QK‑3, ul.

Pawia 5A, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance, seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00. iyp.me/krakow

Arrival & Transport

BY CAR

CAR RENTAL All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid foreign licence or international driving permit. Be aware, however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know from borrowing their girlfriend’s car, or renting one for that matter).

Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a rental car.

The Polish Fiat, or ‘Maluch’ - produced in PL from 1972-2000; considered a family car during the communist era.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of accidents and traffic jams around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.

The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. Cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know).

The A4 highway runs right through Kraków connecting it to Berlin (via Katowice and Wrocław) to the west and Rzeszów to the east (via Tarnów). While points east are currently tollfree, a 10zł toll is paid when you enter the motorway in the direction of Katowice, and again when you exit.

Driving around the city itself is incredibly frustrating thanks to frequent roadwork, one-way streets, permit-only streets, and high traffic volume; parking is yet another challenge.

As such we recommend you ditch your vehicle for public transportation at the first opportunity. Street parking is available between the large parking signs on the sidewalks, and is free on weekends; otherwise buy a parking pass from the ticket machine (most of which only take coins, of course) or neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, and place it on the driver’s side of your dashboard. The cost of street parking is 3zł for the first hour, 3.50zł for the second, 4.10zł for the third, and after that back to 3zł. Public parking lots are also marked on the map in the back of this guide. iyp.me/polandblog

A wide range of cars and makes including BMW, Skoda, Kia, Opel and Nissan.

All cars are equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website.QJ‑4, ul.

Zacisze 7 (3rd floor, room 7), tel. (+48) 601 54 53 68, www.joka.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 12:00. Closed Sun. Outside of these hours on request.

AVIS Internationally trusted service offering a range of vehicles from two-door sedans to luxury mini-vans. Located here near the train station, with a pick-up/drop-off point nearby at the car park above the station (ul. Wita Stwosza 4, by prior arrangement only). Also at the airport (open 07:00 24:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00).QL‑4, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 12 629 61 08, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.

TAXIS Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, taxi service in Kraków is very reliable and affordable. Calling ahead will get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street just make sure it is clearly marked with a company name and phone number displayed. A standard fare is about 7zł, plus about 2.30zł per kilometre; at night and on Sundays, however, fares increase by up to 50%.

Most Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip, so if you’re in the company of Poles, the driver likely won’t expect one. Double standards being what they are, however, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.

Uber is also now available in Poland, and those familiar with the service will find Kraków well-covered, however there are some drawbacks. Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for cheaper rates.

BARBAKAN TAXIQtel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi. barbakan.krakow.pl.

ICARQtel. (+48) 12 653 55 55, www.icartaxi.eu.

February – March 2018

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What’s On

Titanic Exhibition (p.22)

EVENTS BY DATE 25.02 17:00, 10.03 18:30, 28.03 18:00 » SONG: THE THEATRE OF THE WORD

If you’re looking for a crash course on some of the most acclaimed Polish composers of the 20th and 21st centuries, then this just might be it. Combine that with a unique theatrical formula and outside-the-box choice of venues, and you have yourself the recipe for quite the ambitious musical event that makes your average evening at the Philharmonic seem, well, pretty average. Who said classical music couldn’t be done differently?QM-4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29.

Tickets 40-60zł available at Box Office (open 10:00 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the evening performance), www.opera.krakow.pl.

01.03 - 31.12 » GLASS BLOWING DEMONSTRATIONS

See beautiful glass creations come alive before your eyes at the Glass & Ceramics Centre on ul. Lipowa. Once an hour, skilled artisans demonstrate the five stages of glass forming and answer all your questions. Demonstrations take place at least once an hour, with the last demo about 90mins before closing. Check out the exhibits while you’re there as well.QN‑9, Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics Centre, ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423 67 90, Admission 16/14zł.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun., www.lipowa3.pl.

16 Kraków In Your Pocket

22.02 - 25.02 » SHANTIES 2018: POLISH MARITIME FESTIVAL

For 36 years running, Kraków has hosted this salty sea shanty festival with so much success that it has spawned an astounding twenty other shanty festivals across Poland. In addition, this festival has risen to become not only the most important celebration of maritime music in the country, but the largest in all of Europe—which is quite an accomplishment for a land-locked city in Central Europe. Attracting salt-creased sea dogs, selkies, and sirens from across the continent, the biggest stars of sea songs will be performing four days of concerts, plus a raft of workshops, photo exhibitions, and other accompanying events.

Foreigners need fear not—while many of the performers are Polish, there are plenty of international acts as well; not to mention the strong inherent connection to the oral and musical traditions of Ireland and Scotland that are evident in the nautical scene. Concerts this year will be held at the Main Square, KS Studio, Radio Kraków Studio S5, (Al. J. Słowackiego 22, I-1), and Kijów.

Centrum Cinema (Al. Krasińskiego 34, H-3).QTickets 18-80zł, www.shanties.pl.

What’s going on? facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket iyp.me/krakow

What’s On @KrakowIYP 10.03 17:30 » 007 JAMES BOND LIVE

With nearly 30 films released over half a century, it’s not a surprise the James Bond legacy has amassed quite the impressive soundtrack. Performed live by some of the best voices Poland has to offer, the evening comprises a repertoire of over 20 songs representing each James Bond movie released. Song choices take us back all the way to the beginning with Under the Mango Tree from Dr. No (1962) and all the way through to more recent international hits like Skyfall (2012) and Writing’s on the Wall from Spectre (2015).QH‑9, ICE Kraków Congress Centre, ul.

Marii Konopnickiej 17, Tickets 79-139zł, www.tixer.pl.

10.03 - 17.03 » CRACOW FASHION WEEK: FASHION & ECOLOGY

Organised by the Fashion Faculty at the Cracow School of Art and Fashion Design, this is no doubt one of the most stylish weeks of the year, and it’s back again for round 9. The event kicks off with a glamorous competition known as the Cracow Fashion Awards which is held at the ICE Congress Centre and weighed in on by an international jury. It also offers the chance to see some stunning collections that have travelled from fellow designers in Shanghai and Italy, as well as some of our very own local graduates of the school’s programme. If the terms haute couture, redressing, shoe design, or international fashion photography mean anything to you, be sure to check out workshops of the former and a beautiful exhibition of the latter as part of the week-long events.Qwww.cracowfashionweek.com.

International Cultural Centre Gallery Rynek Główny 25, Kraków Tuesday–Sunday 10.00 a.m.–6 p.m.

www.mck.krakow.pl

21.03 19:00 » JORGE BLANCO LIVE & THE 8TH WONDER

Mexican actor and recording artist Jorge Blanco has decided to focus on his solo music career, and as such is touching down in Poland twice this year (once in Warsaw and once in Krakow) as part of his European tour. His debut album is slotted for release at some point in 2018 and is preceded by singles Risky Business and Summer Soul.QD‑4, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4 (Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 617 45 45, Tickets 89-590zł available at www. eventim.pl, www.jvsgroup.cz.

22.03 » THE NECKS: SOMETHING MUST BREAK

If there could only be one Australian experimental jazz trio, The Necks would most likely be it. Dubbed “the greatest trio on earth” by Geoff Dyer of The New York Times, they’re certainly a force to be reckoned with in their genre, so it’s a good thing they’re coming to Krakow this year. After 30 years of awesomeness onstage and as a band, The Necks are embarking on a European tour and giving our continent a chance to experience their improvisational, unforgettable, never-the-same glory.

QH‑5, Małopolska Garden of the Arts, ul. Szujskiego 6, Tickets 50/60zł, www.mos.art.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

Study in English Fashion Design or Photography

February – March 2018

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What’s On 23.03, 24.03, 25.03, 27.03 18:30 » PAGLIACCI / GIANNI SCHICCHI

Literally meaning “Clowns,” the 2-act Italian opera Pagliacci is the only one of Leoncavallo’s remaining works that is still widely performed today. This year, the Krakow Opera stage producers have decided to pair it with a performance of Gianni Schicchi, a one-act comic opera

by Giacomo Puccini. Cleverly enough, the two pieces focus on the extremes of human emotions and their destructive, catastrophic, and devastating qualities. In Pagliacci, lust, love, and jealousy are what bring about the characters’ demise; in Gianni Schicchi, it’s all about money and greed, which are made more palatable with a comedic delivery.

QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 20-120zł available at www.opera.krakow.pl.

23.03 - 02.04 » EASTER MARKET

During the lead-up to Easter, wooden stalls occupy the market square selling a wide array of colourful goods, food and souvenirs, including hand-woven Easter palms made of dried flowers, painstakingly decorated Easter eggs, wicker baskets, linen tablecloths, gingerbread hearts, hand-painted pottery, smoked cheese from Podhale, hearty sausage and cabbage served on paper plates, pierogi, decorations, trinkets and toys galore, plus plenty of hot spiced wine.

QI‑5, Main Market Square, www.kiermasze.com.pl.

26.03 - 02.04 » MISTERIA PASCHALIA: IT’S TIME FOR THE BRITISH ISLANDS

This is the 15th edition of Kraków’s popular Misteria Paschalia festival presenting early classical and sacral music.

Thanks to its carefully developed brand, integrated concept, and a carefully-crafted repertoire, Misteria Paschalia has become one of Europe’s most important and recognisable events focusing on Renaissance and Baroque music. The programme is meant to thematically coincide with Easter (arguably the most important religious holiday on the Polish calendar). This year, 13 concerts spread across 2 series will be held over 8 days as part of the festival, including 7 commissions and 3 world premieres. As for the undeniably rich cultural, musical, and emotional experience—well, that just can’t be quantified.QTickets 21-120zł, festival pass 70-600zł, www.misteriapaschalia.com.

02.04 » EMAUS FAIR

Emaus, named after the biblical village (‘Emmaus’ in English), is a traditional Kraków odpust (indulgence) that takes place in Salwator every Easter Monday. Indulgence fairs accompanying church services were once customary in Poland, but Kraków’s is by far the largest and most popular, surviving without pause since at least the 16th century. Each year hundreds of families descend upon the Norbertine Monastery and the area around ul. Emaus, ul.Św. Bronisławy, and ul. Kościuszki, where merchants set up stalls selling traditional gingerbread hearts and candy, folk toys and souvenirs, balloons, food, shooting galleries, carousels, rides, raffles, and all sorts of merry nonsense that children particularly enjoy.QE‑8, Norbertine Monastery, ul. Kościuszki 88, tel. (+48) 12 427 13 18.

18 Kraków In Your Pocket

iyp.me/krakow

What’s On 03.04 12:00 » RĘKAWKA FESTIVAL

28.04 » METALLICA: WORLDWIRED TOUR

Of all the bands in the world, we’re pretty sure Metallica is one that needs little to no introduction. And yet, here we are—so we’ll leave it to The Guardian who said it best: “Metallica have just made their finest record in 25 years.”

The album to which they are referring, Hardwired... To SelfDestruct was released in November 2016 and sold 800,000 copies in the first week, debuting at No. 1 all over the world.

Included in the (brace yourself—as it’s a pretty hefty) ticket price is the physical or digital version of the album, along with a choice of three options of “special enhanced experiences.” Curious? We are too.QTauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, Tickets 236-10,369zł, www. livenation.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

sopran

charakteryzacja

orkiestron

partytura

ruch

tenor kulisy maski kostium orkiestra

aktorzy kurtyna

baryton

bas

głos soliści

przestrzeń

widzowie

TEATR scena

foyer

The famous, eclectic, vagabond Irish-American-European music group known to pretty much the whole world as The Kelly Family will be hitting stages in Gdańsk, Łódż and Kraków this year as part of their We Got Love tour. With over 20 million sold albums under their belt, over 50 of the most important awards in music in their (collective) arms, and even more gold and platinum albums combined in their impressive repertoire, these guys know what they’re doing. Consider this concert less as a musical performance and more as an invitation to travel along the journey of 40+ years in music... with some unforgettable performances to boot.QTauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, Tickets 119-299zł, www.jvsgroup.cz.

reżyser uwertura

08.04 » THE KELLY FAMILY: WE GOT LOVE

PIEŚŃ libretto

bilety

Though today thought of as a Cracovian Easter tradition (celebrated the Tuesday after Easter Sunday), Rękawka actually has its roots in pagan rites of spring, particularly Dziady (Forefathers) - a pre-Christian tradition of communing with the dead, who were thought to be the guardians of fertility and reproduction. Taking place on and around Krakus Mound - the city’s oldest and most mysterious structure - for centuries the tradition apparently consisted of venerating the dead by rolling bread, eggs, bagels and coins down the side of the mound to the crowds below. Today the tradition has morphed into a gathering of mediaeval re-enactors, who travel from across Poland to participate in the setting up of a Slavic encampment around the Mound, which aims for authenticity in the participants’ attire, activities, shelter and food (which guests can try). There will be workshops, archery and other games for kids, plus historical costumes, leather goods and historical souvenirs for sale. But more than just a fair, there’s actually an entire programme for the day, highlights of which include the pagan ‘Drowning of Marzanna’ rite at 13:00, performances of Slavic legends at 14:45 and 16:30, an all-out medieval battle at 15:30, and the fiery funeral of King Krak at 17:15. Simultaneously on Lasota Hill you’ll find a typical fun fair full of balloons, games, trinkets and a few rides - basically the same vendors and hullabaloo that were at the Emaus Fair the day before.QM‑12, Krakus Mound, above ul. Maryewskiego.

alt scenografia muzyka

tekst

SŁOWA

światło

dźwięk kompozytor

SONG – THE THEATRE OF THE WORD artistic director of the project: Katarzyna Oleś-Blacha

25.02.2018 5.00 pm

„Songbook For Home Use”.

Songs and Ballads of Stanisław Moniuszko "Wieliczka" Salt Mine Jan Haluszka Chamber

10.03.2018

6.30 pm

Great Polish Composers in Songs Polish Aviation Museum

28.03.2018

6.00 pm

Ecce Lignum Crucis…

(Behold the Wood of the Cross) "Wieliczka" Salt Mine The Chapel of St. Kinga

Subsequent concerts will take place in April, May and June 2018

www.oper a.kr akow.pl February – March 2018

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What’s On RECURRING EVENTS 01.06 - 31.03 » FOLK SHOW IN JAMA MICHALIKA

Jama Michalika - the cult secessionist cafe famous for its Art Nouveau interior - makes an iconic, if slightly ironic, backdrop for these wonderful Polish folk music and dancing performances, which feature local musicians and dancers in traditional folk costumes, and even an appearance by the city’s legendary folk hero, Lajkonik. A full two-course meal of traditional Polish food is included, allowing you to check local colour, cuisine, and art off of your list all in one go. Performances begin at 19:00 on Sat in March.QJ‑5, Jama Michalika, ul. Floriańska 45. Tickets 85zł, available at www.cracowconcerts.com or before the concerts. Tel. (+48) 604 093 570, www.cracowconcerts.com. 19:00 Every Saturday.

01.12 - 31.03 » KLEZMER CONCERTS IN ISAAC SYNAGOGUE

These Klezmer concerts are the only recurring and regularly held event at the Isaac synagogue, a 17th-century historical treasure located in the heart of the Kazimierz district. As such, they offer a unique chance to experience authentic Jewish culture at one of the largest and most well-maintained synagogues in the city. The Taykh chorus, consisting of professional musicians, stunningly weave in aspects of ethnic music, beautifully interchanging elements of Jewish, Romani, and Balkan sounds, perfectly highlighting the multicultural character that defines modern-day Kazimierz as we know it. In February and March concerts are held on Thursdays and Sundays at 18:00. QK‑8, Isaac Synagogue, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, Tickets 40/60zł, www.chabadkrakow.org.

Every Thursday & Sunday.

01.06 - 31.03 » ROYAL CHAMBER ORCHESTRA

This rather prolific ensemble of graduates from the Kraków Academy of Music perform outstanding, and outstandingly popular, classical music recitals around the Old Town. On even days of the month catch them at St. Adalbert’s Church on the market square, beginning at 18:00.QI‑6, St. Adalbert’s Church, Rynek Główny. Tickets 65zł available at www.cracowconcerts or before the show. Tel. (+48) 604 093 570, www.cracowconcerts.com. 18:00.

03.04 - 31.03 » CLASSICAL & FILM MUSIC IN CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL

A chance to hear a wonderful series of concerts in the breathtaking surroundings of St. Peter & Paul’s. The event begins at 20.00 every Mon, Tue and Thu and one can expect to hear a mixture of baroque, romance and film music all performed by the Cracow City Orchestra.QJ‑7, Church of Saints Peter & Paul, ul. Grodzka 52A, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65, Tickets 60/40zł. Available at City Information Point (ul. Św. Jana 2, C-3; Open 09:00 - 19:00) and at the venue before the concert begins. (+48) 602 85 09 00, www. newculture.pl. 20:00 Every Mon, Tue, Thu. 20 Kraków In Your Pocket

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What’s On 01.06 - 31.03 » CHOPIN CONCERTS

Enjoy the music of Poland’s greatest composer, Fryderyk Chopin, as performed by pianists Witold Wilczek, Weronika Krówka, Maria Moliszewska, Kazuko Tsuji and others. Concerts begin each day at 19:00 at Chopin Gallery, ul. Sławkowska 14. Price includes a glass of wine.QTickets 60zł, available at www.cracowconcerts.com or before the concert. (+48) 604 093 570, www.cracowconcerts.com. 19:00.

EXHIBITIONS 28.11 - 20.01 » WYSPIAŃSKI

2017 marks the 110th anniversary of internationallyacclaimed artist Stanisław Wyspiański’s death (1869– 1907). If you don’t know, now you know: Wyspiański ranks among artists like Klimt and Gaudi in terms of masssignificance and influence cascading from the turn of the 19th century, especially locally. In an impressive feat, the National Museum in Kraków has aggregated the largest and most valuable collection of the artist’s works - approximately 900 pieces. As part of the largest display of the artist’s works over the past 50 years in Poland, 500 of these works will be available for viewing - drawings, portraits, and landscapes, as well as scenographic, typographic, and ornamental designs (some of which were made for high-profile clients in Krakow). Of course, there will be plenty of pastels - a medium he was best known for artfully mastering.QG‑6, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Tickets 11/6zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free., www.mnk.pl/exhibitions/wyspianski.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

01.12 - 08.04 » LVIV ON JUNE 24, 1937: CITY, ARCHITECTURE, MODERNISM

June 24th, 1937 in Lviv was a day like any other—the city was bustling with events and oozing culture, characterised by an all-around embodiment of modernity as it was considered in this era. Like many European cities, the history of Lviv is quite interesting, convoluted, and long-winding. It was always considered a city of innovation and modernity— as it turns out, in 1853 Lviv was the first European city to have streetlights. Many of us also know it as Lwów, as there was a time that the city was part of Poland (in fact, one of the inventors of the initial kerosene streetlight, Łukasiewicz, was Polish). This exhibition offers a look back in time to over 80 years ago, presenting a snapshot of Lviv focused on architecture and cultural life of the city that ultimately, a mere two years later and thereafter, would never be the same again.QI‑5, International Cultural Centre, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, Admission to the gallery 12/7zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue, Wed between 10:00 and 11:00 admission 1zł., www.mck.krakow.pl.

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February – March 2018

21

What’s On 20.10 - 01.04 » ARTISTS FROM KRAKOW: GENERATION 1970–1979

from 09.02.2018 hotel forum building

Artists From Krakow is a biennial series at MOCAK offering a more detailed look at the contemporary art scene in the city and aiming to explore and identify its most important trends. If you haven’t gotten the memo yet, Kraków is quite the cultural cradle and has been largely considered so since the mid-nineteenth century. The city boasts many firsts in terms of building and establishing its cultural capital through the years: after all, in 1818 the first academy of fine arts in the country was instated here, followed by the first national museum in 1870, and the first institute of art history in the country also materialised on Cracovian soil in 1882. There must be something in the water, because the city operates mainly in the cultural industry and is characterised by the outstanding talents that have either been born or bred in these here streets. For this series, the “kids” born in the years 1970 to 1979 are in the limelight, with their works on display. The works do not follow any specific theme or medium, so expect to see a variety of paintings, installations, comics, and photography—but not only. If you pay close attention, you might notice some overarching styles and ways of looking at art that might be a symptom of their times: the artists in this generation graduated at the turn of the 20th century, and many of them are known names in the international art circuit and/or work as lecturers at fine arts academies.QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, Admission 14/7zł, Tue free. Guided tours (115zł + admission) in English, Italian, French and Chinese available, but must be arranged by phone in advance., www.mocak.pl.

02.02 - 06.05 » GUNTHER VON HAGEN’S BODY WORLDS: THE ORIGINAL EXHIBITION OF REAL HUMAN BODIES

Viewed by 43 million people across the world, Body Worlds shows the potential of the human body through an aesthetic presentation of its inner workings. Fascinating, informative, and a tad bit macabre, the human body is shown in all its gory detail via multimedia installations. Thanks to the innovative plastination process invented by controversial German anatomist and educator Gunther von Hagens, visitors can view the inside of the human body and see how sensitive our organism is. The exhibit allows for the discovery of human anatomy, physiology and health, and shows audiences the effects various lifestyles and habits (like smoking) have on their own bodies. If you’re not too faint of heart, and up for a spellbinding journey into the beauty and complexity of human anatomy, the Body Worlds exhibition is certainly like nothing else you’ve ever seen, and you won’t soon forget it.QBonarka City Center, ul. Kamieńskiego 11 (Podgórze), tel. (+48) 12 298 60 00, Tickets 30-60zł, family tickets 125-145zł, www.bodyworlds.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 22 Kraków In Your Pocket

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What’s On 20.10 - 01.04 » NONSENSE TECHNOLOGIES

If you’re one of those “I don’t get art” people, perhaps this is one exhibit that you still might consider giving a try. Artists Przemysław Jasielski and Rainer Prohaska offer an ironic look at technology in combination with the arts and sciences.

Presented in the form of interactive objects and installations, the purpose of the exhibit is to demonstrate the creative aspect of invention—and to allow space for the realisation that what is often seen as “new” and “innovative,” and may even serve a function—that function can still in and of itself be useless, banal, or—as the artists call it—nonsense. This display is not only an exploration on the origin and process of creativity vs. rational thinking, it’s also a commentary on the human-technology relationship—one that the artists urge should be engaged in with caution (especially when it comes to artificial intelligence) as we continue to sidestep the potential dangers our collective everyday dependence holds.QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul.

Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, Admission 14/7zł, Tue free. Guided tours (115zł + admission) in English, Italian, French and Chinese available, but must be arranged by phone in advance., www.mocak.pl.

09.02 - 01.06 » TITANIC

One of the most famous travelling exhibitions in the world is finally touching down in Poland, and landing right at the old Forum Hotel. One might argue that the souls of the Titanic and that of our exhibition venue are connected in more ways than one—both were built with one idealistic purpose, and yet ended up as abandoned shadows of themselves not long after. Just as the Titanic is the pinnacle representation of the era of the technological revolution, Hotel Forum, close to Old Town and the city center is closely tied to the long lost dreams of Communism (which started with high hopes and ended... well, you’ve seen the hotel). Not only does it contain artefacts from the bottom of the sea, but has a number of rooms built to make you feel Titanic with all of your senses, including touch, smell and feel. The exhibition is meant to be immersive and aims to exude the same kind of feel that you might have experienced had you been on board over 100 years ago.QI‑10, Forum, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28. Tickets 35-60zł, family ticket 125-145zł, www.wystawatitanic.pl.

Open 09:00 - 20:00.

09.02 - 01.03 » WORLD PRESS PHOTO

For professional photographers, especially those who work as photo-journalists, being featured in the World Press Photo Exhibition is considered quite the accomplishment. It’s kind of like the Oscars but for photographers, you know? Every year, the World Press Photo Foundation, in collaboration with Canon, ask an independent international jury of experts to choose the best press photos in a selected group of categories. The 2017 edition (which also happened to be the 60th anniversary of this prestigious affair), saw more than a whopping 80,000 images submitted by over 5,000 photographers from at least 125 countries.QR‑3, Nowa Huta Cultural Centre, Al. Jana Pawła II 232, tel. (+48) 12 644 02 66, Tickets 8/10zł, www.nck.krakow.pl/worldpress-photo-sila-fotografii. 11:00. iyp.me/polandblog

February – March 2018

23

Polish Food

Pierogi | courtesy of Wierzynek (p.52).

Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and not especially colourful. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish restaurant or milk bar (see p.52) in town. Smacznego!

BIGOS Though there is no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

GOŁĄBKI Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army quinn.anya, www.flickr.com, gołąbki before a battle against CC BY-SA 2.0. the Teutonic Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

GOLONKA

Bigos

24 Kraków In Your Pocket

© graletta - dollarphotoclub

© gkrphoto, AdobeStock

Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman. iyp.me/krakow

Polish Food KIEŁBASA Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an enormous variety, made with everything kind of meat imaginable, from turkey to bison. There are a few varieties to watch for including Krakowska, a Kraków specialty seasoned with pepper and garlic; Kabanosy, a thin, dry sausage flavoured with caraway seed; and Kaszanka, a blood sausage filled with groats and pig’s blood. These you’ll find in any ‘delikatesy’ or butcher shop, but head to Kiełbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski at Plac Targowy (see p.44) to get a taste of Kraków’s most famous kiełbasa, however. Two oldtimers have been grilling sausage out of a van since time immemorial at this hallowed sidewalk stand.

KOTLET SCHABOWY Probably the most popular lunch/ supper in Poland is the almighty ‘schabowy’ with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, and you can walk into almost restaurant in the country and be assured of its presence on the menu (if the kitchen hasn’t run out of it already). Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a Saturday or Sunday morning by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the collective sound of every housewife in Poland tenderising the meat for this meal with a spiky mallet. So best mind your manners.

NALEŚNIKI The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in any dodgy Polish dining establishment.

PIEROGI Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere in the city.

PLACKI ZIEMNIACZANE These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

SMALEC Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage or a taste of żurek generally draw the line here. An animal fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the better, we say) and served with hunks of homemade bread, Smalec is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug of beer. Any traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt should give you lashings of this prior to your meal. iyp.me/polandblog

“Pod Aniołami – Under the Angels” is an extraordinary place. With its historical 13th-century interiors and brilliant cuisine based on Polish culinary traditions it brings you closer to the medieval city. This place is famed for marinated meats grilled and smoked on hardwood from beech trees, and for other old Polish dishes.

Restauracja „Pod Aniołami” ul. Grodzka 35, 31-001 Kraków www.podaniolami.pl mail: restauracja@podaniolami.pl tel.:+48/12 421-39-99 / PodAniolamiRestaurant

February – March 2018

25

Polish Food POLISH VODKA

© Pijalnia Wodki, Fabrizio Sciami

The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most popular of which we describe below.

WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, ambercoloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice.

KRUPNIK A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’

26 Kraków In Your Pocket

Zapiekanka

© Marcin Perfuński

ZAPIEKANKA The ultimate Cracovian drunk food. Order one at any train station in PL and you’ll get half a stale baguette covered with mushrooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and squirted with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least, however the vendors of Kazimierz’s Plac Nowy (K-8, p.96) have made a true art out of the ‘Polish pizza.’

With endless add-ons (including salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple, feta – you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become standard procedure at this point.

Because of their popularity you’ll witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 8-10zł it’s a great value and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking. To leave town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Kraków.

ZUPA (SOUP) Poland has three signature soups: barszcz, żurek and flaki.

A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking (‘barszcz Żurek solo’). A recommended alternative to other beverages with any winter meal, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Kraków.

It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and often served in a bread bowl.

If you’re of strong constitution and feeling truly adventurous, spring for flaki (also sometimes called flaczki) – beef tripe soup enriched with veggies, herbs and spices. A hearty standby in most kitchens, we personally save the pleasure for compromising situations involving mother-in-laws, but we still have to give credit to any local restaurant bold enough to keep this on their menu. iyp.me/krakow

Polish Food DESSERTS

PĄCZKI

Few things in life get a Pole more animated than a good dessert. Known for not being too sweet (and for too often incorporating marmalade, gelatin or alcohol in our opinion), the classic Polish desserts below can be purchased in any ‘cukiernia’ (pastry shop) and in most cafes.

KREMÓWKA A cream pie made of two thin layers of puff pastry filled with vanilla custard cream and often topped with powdered sugar. One of our favourite Polish treats, kremówka was popularised across PL by the late Pope John Paul II, who made the mistake of offhandedly commenting about eating cream cakes once in his hometown of Wadowice, thus creating a cottage industry in the small town 50km southwest of Kraków almost overnight.

MAKOWIEC Traditionally eaten at Easter and Christmas, this poppy seed dessert can be made as a cake, or as a bread loaf with a dense swirl of slightly sweetened poppy seeds in the centre. Sometimes alcohol is added to the filling, and icing and orange zest often glaze the bread.

PIERNIKI Polish gingerbread, or pierniki, comes in many varieties, but the most famous is Toruński Piernik, which has been produced in the northern town of Toruń since the Middle Ages. Slightly soft, chewy and flavoured with honey, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, anise and lavender, these small gingerbread cookies can be glazed with sugar, covered in chocolate or filled with marmalade.

SERNIK Polish for ‘cheesecake,’ sernik is one of the country’s most popular desserts and you’ll have a hard time convincing any Pole you’ve been to their country if you don’t try it.

Made with a sweet curd cheese (twaróg) and served cold, there are plenty of variations, including those with raisins, gelatin or chocolate sauce.

SZARLOTKA Any Pole will tell you that the best apples in the world come from Poland, and Polish apple pie is a standard served almost everywhere. Made with shortbread, the apples are typically tart and flavoured with cinnamon and cloves.

Szarlotka from Tradycja (p.42).

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Flickr user Mel Sharlene CC BY-SA 2.0

Pressing on in our semi-encyclopedic review of Polish cuisine brings us to pączki (singular = pączek). These traditional round deep-fried doughnuts have been known in PL since the Middle Ages, earning the status of the nation’s number one pastry. Pączki are typically filled with confiture (rose jam or other marmalades), glazed with sugar and sometimes topped with a few pieces of candied orange peel. Similar to American jelly doughnuts, the main difference is American doughnuts’ penchant for squirting the eater with disgusting jelly and Poland’s conservative tendencies ensuring there is only a drop of marmalade in the centre somewhere, which an elaborate game could be made around trying to find.

So beloved are pączki in Poland that they even have their own holiday. Like other Catholic countries that celebrate the last day before the fasting season of Lent begins, Poland has its own version of the French Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday), known locally as Tłusty Czwartek, or Fat Thursday. With Lent forbidding sweets and treats, Fat Thursday is a similar celebration of gluttonous indulgence as in other countries, but with the date bungled, and instead of parading and partying the Poles queue up in lines that sometimes stretch around the corner (a separate Polish tradition) in order to purchase pączki from the local cukiernia, or bakery. This year Fat Thursday falls on February 8th, but pączki can be purchased any day of the year.

GORĄCE PĄCZKI Purveying‘Hot Doughnuts’(as the name translates) every day of the year, this sidewalk hatch on the Old Town’s popular Szewska Street offers about a dozen different flavours of marmalade filling, including traditional rose jam, chocolate-cherry, raspberry, chocolate pudding, sweet cheese and more. Though the prices are a bit rich at 3.50zł each, this place knows what it’s doing and you simply won’t find a better, fresher pastry. When it comes to trying local foods, this is one you can easily and joyfully cross off your list.QI‑5, ul. Szewska 25, tel. (+48) 791 55 55 88. Open 10:00 - 24:00. S February – March 2018

27

Cafés

With Cafe Nakielny (p.29) opening a new location at ul. Szewska 27 (B-3) as we went to print, the sweet life is closer than ever.

Kraków is infamous for its cafe culture which easily rivals that of celebrated capitals like Paris and Vienna, perhaps even outmatching them pound for pound. In fact, it was a famous Pole - Jerzy Kulczycki - who opened the first coffeehouse in Vienna. Kraków’s Kazimierz district is particularly known for its atmospheric cafes, filled with candlelight, antiques and Old World mystique. Most Cracovian cafes also serve alcohol and the line between cafe and bar can be a blurry one indeed. The venues we’ve listed here tend to favour coffee and cakes over beer and booze and when most cafe/bar establishments are turning up the music for their ‘til last guest’ clientele, these are more often closing their doors.

BAL If you’re feeling a bit self-conscious about being a tourist after visiting MOCAK or Schindler’s Factory, Bal will restore your street cred. Well hidden deep in a courtyard behind MOCAK, this popular cafe and lunch spot was on the first wave of pioneers to pitch their tents in this part of town. What should be an obscure studio space has been turned into a hip hangout with high ceilings and exposed bulbs, wooden tables and white walls.

Stop in for breakfast sets (served until 11:30; all day on weekends), daily lunch specials, bagels, sandwiches, pasta, quiche, hummus sets, great coffee and cocktails.

Essentially the antithesis of everything in the Old Town, with Bal Kraków’s young creatives are marking their territory. Find it and find out.QN‑9, ul. Ślusarska 9 (entrance from ul. Przemysłowa), tel. (+48) 734 41 17 33. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Mon 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. T­6­S­W 28 Kraków In Your Pocket

BOCOCA This small NYC-inspired cafe/bistro is a great place to start the day or get some work done, offering all the hallmarks of a good brunch spot: delicious coffee, good sweets and healthy eats, fine wines and great bottled beers, vitamin-rich veggie cocktails and shakes, reliable wifi, and (drum roll, please)... even mimosas! As soon as you walk in the door, you can tell: this place gets it. Featuring a sharp, black and white interior of exposed bricks and fixtures, the Pl. Inwalidów location is a bit off the beaten track, but easily accessed by tram and bus. Essentially a little slice of Green Point (Brooklyn’s predominantly Polish neighbourhood), here in Kraków; let’s keep this ironic cultural exchange going (more like this, please).QG‑3, Pl. Inwalidów 7, tel. (+48) 12 359 61 65.

Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. T­6­S­W BONJOUR CAVA This well-admired, local chain of cafes has infiltrated Tytano to give the grungy, post-industrial party complex a place for earlybirds, cakelovers, laptoppers and quicheaters. The charmingly eclectic, chapeau-tipping design succeeds in creating a cosy space to relax, work or refuel. On offer is excellent coffee, ice cream, savoury pies and frittatas, French pastries, daily lunch specials and a dangerous display case of desserts. As this is Tytano, there’s plenty of seasonal seating outside, and (unlike their other locations) they also serve wine. Exactly what a cafe should be, you’ll also find them at ul. Warszawska 16 (J-3), ul. Piłsudskiego 5 (H-6) and ul. Brodzińskiego 4 (K-10).QG‑4/5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/7C, tel. (+48) 790 22 88 43, www.bonjourcava.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:30, Fri 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 6­­S­W iyp.me/krakow

Cafés BUNKIER CAFE Attached to Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery, this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English teachers giving private lessons around wobbly tables and chairs, and a sandbox for kids to dig through in summer. A year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), the space is judiciously divided between smoking and non, and they now offer a full menu of delicious food that’s served late; in fact the inviting atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely negligent table service that unfortunately can’t be circumnavigated.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe. pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. B­X­W CAFE NAKIELNY This spacious, modern cafe and bakery has a lot to offer anyone looking for a caffeine fix, sweet tooth satisfier, or pleasant place to pull out the laptop. ‘Monocakes’ delicious personal-sized desserts you wouldn’t dare share - are the latest trendy food term, and Nakielny has row after row of these colourful creations filling their display counter, plus sandwiches and savoury phyllo pastries, pralines, macaroons, shakes and some of the best ice cream in town. Beautifully designed (and smartly branded), with a clean aesthetic and comfortable armchairs, this is just a great place to pass time. Now a second location in the very centre at ul. Szewska 27 (B-3).QJ‑4, ul. Basztowa 15, tel. (+48) 882 59 13 25, www.nakielny.pl. Open 06:00 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. T­6­S­W CAMELOT Let a blissful day unravel before you amid a collection of tiny tables, squeaking floorboards and watercolours pinned to white walls. Owlish academics mingle with local stage celebrities and braying tourists inside what is no less than a city institution. An extensive menu features all-day breakfast, salads, pastas, desserts and plenty of warm local liquors, and the elevated seat in the window may be the most romantic spot in town. A cultural institution, the famous Loch Camelot theatre group performs their delightfully strange, antiquated and always endearing brand of cabaret in the basement on weekends (check lochcamelot.art.pl for times and prices).

Recommended all around.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421 01 23. Open 09:00 - 24:00. 6­N­S­W CUPCAKE CORNER BAKERY This cheerful American-style bakery and cafe couldn’t be more authentic if it was run by Martha Stewart herself.

Offering 21 different cupcake flavours on various days of the week (12 daily), choose from delicious creations like Peanut Butter Brownie, Coffee Halva and Red Velvet, plus glutenfree and vegan options. But cupcakes are only part of the game - start your day with a fresh bagel slathered in one of their flavoured cream cheeses, and don’t miss the all-natural ice cream and milkshakes. Also at ul. Szewska 22 (I-5), ul.

Grodzka 60 (J-7) and ul. Michałowskiego 14 (H-4).QI‑6, ul.

Bracka 4, tel. (+48) 12 341 42 72, www.cupcakecorner.pl.

Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. T­U­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

BREAKFAST

BAGELMAMA Kazimierz bagel spot with a range of toppings and cream cheeses, plus breakfast burritos, drip coffee, soups, sandwiches and more - served all day.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 46. Open 09:00 17:00. (4-20zł). T­6­S­W CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO In Charlotte early risers will find great coffee, fresh bread, pastries, breakfast sets (served all day) and a wonderful atmosphere. High ceilinged and full of natural light this Parisian-style cafe/bakery is a great place to read the paper, open the laptop or slowly unwind the day ahead of you.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80, www.bistrocharlotte.pl. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

(15-20zł). 6­­S­W FORUM PRZESTRZENIE One of the best in town, Forum’s morning menu (served until 13:00) includes the awesome ‘San Francisco’ breakfast of frankfurters, grilled cheese with turkey, a fried egg, sweet corn, bacon and pancakes for only 21zł. As if you need more, there’s also scrambled eggs with add-ins, oatmeal with fresh fruit, vegan and gluten-free options.QI‑10, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515 42 47 24, www.forumprzestrzenie. com. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (10-21zł). ­W RANNY PTASZEK This brilliant ‘breakfast bar’ combines the classic American diner with the modern Brooklyn brunchery.

Healthy, affordable and served super fast, compose your own meal from shaksouka, Hungarian sausage, patatas bravas, pickled veggies, hummus and more, or go for one of their sandwiches or salads. Unfortunately, space is super limited, so enjoy this pleasure with just your sweetheart, because the whole fam won’t fit.

QJ‑8, ul. Augustiańska 5, tel. (+48) 517 65 62 46.

Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. (10-25zł).

6­­S­W SCANDALE ROYAL Mornings here feature a full breakfast buffet, or order a la carte (until 12:30) from two pages of exciting options - eggs, omelettes, pancakes, and a solid English breakfast.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (11-27zł). S­W February – March 2018

29

Cafés LANGUAGE SMARTS Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Kraków and may even win you friends and admirers.

On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.

This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri)

Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is...

Mam na imię...

I’m from England.

Jestem z Anglii Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku?

I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku.

I don’t understand.

Nie rozumiem.

Two beers, please.

Dwa piwa proszę.

Cheers!

Na zdrowie!

Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety?

You are beautiful.

Jesteś piękna.

I love you.

Kocham cię.

Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu.

Call me!

Zadzwoń do mnie!

30 Kraków In Your Pocket

(Mam nah ee-myeh…)

(Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyelskoo?)

(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)

(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)

(Dvah peevah prosheh.)

(Nah zdrovyeh!)

(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)

(Ko-hahm chuh.)

(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.)

(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

KARMA Arguably the best cup of joe in town, Karma roasts their own beans and boasts one of the world’s best espresso machines (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down). But this is hardly the snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks set.

Karma caters to a more alternative crowd with a range of vegan, gluten-free baked goods, breakfasts and lunch specials that will make you feel great about what you’re eating, as well as how little you’re paying. A wonderful place to not only wake up, but become a bit more conscious.

QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 12/3, tel. (+48) 662 38 72 81, www. karmaroasters.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 19:00. T­6­S­W NOWA PROWINCJA (THE NEW PROVINCE) The sad demise of its sister establishment a few doors up the street only makes Nowa Prowincja all the more rare for its enduringly old school Cracovian atmosphere of sepia candlelight, ribald laughter and literary blather.

A favourite staff respite and rendezvous location with a sparing wooden interior, this stellar coffee bar is primarily furnished with chatting friends enjoying delicious coffee and maybe the best hot chocolate in town - so thick you can stand a spoon in it, or getting an early start on the evening’s brew-ha-ha. Among the quirks is a door buzzer, the pushing of which induces famous Cracovian poets of past and present to read their works through the speaker.

QI‑6, ul. Bracka 3-5, tel. (+48) 12 430 59 59. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. T­6­S­W NEW POJNARÓWKA A property of the University of Agriculture, this secessionist-era greenhouse has been renovated and turned into a unique place for art and coffee. Built in 1912 and located in the centre of what was once a university garden (now uni parking), today this small historical building is discreetly walled off from the outside world (enter past the parking guardhouse), making it a quiet place to unwind away from the crowds. Doubling as a gallery and full of natural light, note that quite often on weekends they host ceramic or painting workshops; otherwise this is the perfect place to get out your novel, diary or sketchbook, while enjoying a cup of coffee and slice of cake.QG‑5, Al. Mickiewicza 21B, tel. (+48) 606 33 81 39. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. T­6­U­S­W SŁODKI WIERZYNEK This classy cafe/shop on the ground floor of Kraków’s most famous dining destination is everything you’d expect based on its unrivalled pedigree. Enjoy the prime Rynek real estate while indulging in gourmet coffee and cakes, pralines, truffles, macaroons and more - all of which are made on-site and can be taken home in snazzy giftboxes; or comfortably order later from their online shop.

QI‑6, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 36, www. slodkiwierzynek.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. ­S­W iyp.me/krakow

Restaurants

Zen and the Art of Sushi Madness, p.35.

With the development of the market in Kraków the number of places to eat is now extremely wide, and while the city’s culinary rep is improving all the time, its restaurants are still waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French tyre company. That said, there are more good restaurants to visit in this town than you could possibly fit in one trip, so fear not, you won’t have to eat tyres.

While our print guide carries a wide selection of Kraków’s most noteworthy restaurants, there are many, many more listed on our website (krakow.inyourpocket.com), where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve visited. All IYP reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working. Smacznego!

SPLURGE Wierzynek (p.52) is Kraków’s oldest and most upscale restaurant, right on the Rynek. Close behind (and nearby), however, is Szara Gęś (p.51), as well as veteran Pod Aniołami (p.50). The sophisticated wine lists and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus (p.38) and Trzy Rybki (p.42) are also in the conversation, while Szara (p.42) - with locales on the market square and in Kazimierz - also never disappoints.

CHEAP A milk bar (p.52) is as cheap as you’ll eat anywhere in your life, but Metrum (p.49) gives you free panoramic views with your meal. If you’re not a fan of Polish food, Bunkier Cafe (p.38)and Chimera (p.40) offer great value and ambiance.

32 Kraków In Your Pocket

LADS Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like a king for pauper prices in Stara Zajezdnia (p.62) or Restauracja Sukiennice (p.51), where the food spills off the edges of the plate. The choicest cuts of red meat are in Moo Moo (p.34) and Ed Red (p.48), or to literally receive a bib with your food, order the outstanding ribs at Rzeźnia (p.34).

FAMILIES & GROUPS Slowly but surely, more places in Kraków now have things like changing tables, high chairs, and play corners - look for the Child-Friendly symbol T at the end of each listing, but nothing in town beats Pod Wawelem (p.50) with its huge rumpus room and food your kids will eat. If you’re in a large group, Cargo (p.33) and Stara Zajezdnia (p.62) can accommodate, or just go for pizza in Hala Głowna (p.60).

COUPLES Kraków is a marvellous backdrop for romance and you shouldn’t have to search far for ‘the perfect place.’ Make a reservation in Pod Aniołami (p.50), ZaKładka (p.36), Pod Nosem (p.50) or Bottiglieria 1881 (p.37) and let the atmosphere do the rest.

SPECIAL DIET For vegans, vegetarians and health-conscious foodies, the street of choice in the Old Town is ul. Krupnicza (H‑5), where you’ll find Sissi (p.42), Pod Norenami (p.55) and Karma (p.54), plus Veganic (p.55) and Enklawa (p.48)are also close by at Tytano (p.60). Find all your options on p.5455, of which our personal faves are Bistro GotuJemy and Wielopole 3. iyp.me/krakow

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY 6 Animal friendly

T Child-friendly

S Take away

N Credit cards not accepted

V Home delivery

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking room available

I Fireplace

W Wi-fi connection

o Year-Round Garden

AMERICAN CARGO GRILL & DELI Front and centre at Tytano, this big, bustling upscale American steakhouse angles for tourists and large groups over local hipsters. The post-industrial design of chunky wooden tables, firehouse red fixtures and fittings, plus a timber terrace out front, achieves a certain smartness by the sheer volume of poised, professional greeters and waitstaff on hand. Keep things within reason with a burger (30zł+), push the boat out with a dry-aged steak (80zł+), or go overboard with the lobster (190zł); in between you’ll find ribs, scallops, swordfish, NY cheesecake and an extensive wine list. Whether or not Cargo actually achieves the status of a top restaurant, it certainly presents itself and operates as one, which is a first step well taken.QG‑4, ul.

Dolnych Młynów 10/2, tel. (+48) 12 686 55 22. Open 12:00 22:30, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (29-190zł). T­6­S­W GRANDE GRILL Contrasting with the inflexible traditionalism of Wierzynek, this fresher effort from the same team behind Kraków’s most famous restaurant offers more modern styling and cuisine.

The patio garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams is one of the best in town, and a stylish indoor dining area and live sports on the tele offer extra motivation for a visit.

The menu is a simple selection of steaks, salads and burgers, all expertly made-to-order with the kind of service you would expect from the city’s most established restaurateurs.

QI‑6, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 21, www. grandegrill.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-89zł). T­U­B­W MOO MOO STEAK & BURGER CLUB On first glance this ‘club’ looks exclusive indeed, with runway waitresses, collared clientele and a minimal, modern monochromatic interior more ideal for a romantic date than spreading your face over a beef patty (and vice versa). The menu reveals an array of refined options from salmon to shrimp, with a bigger emphasis on choice steaks than their burgers - which when cut in half would actually pass for two burgers in most places. The reasonable prices and random music make Moo Moo a lot less pretentious than it first appears, and it’s a place we enjoy coming back to. Now also a second location on Mały Rynek (ul. Sienna 9, J-6).QJ‑5, ul. Świętego Krzyża 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97, www.moomoo.com.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-100zł). U­­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

February – March 2018

33

Restaurants NEW MOO MOO STEAK & WINE With an enviable location right on Mały Rynek, this modern steakhouse’s classy comportment and casual atmosphere make it a popular choice for dinner parties and dating couples. The steaks are tender and juicy, but the burgers seem to be the consumers’ consensus for best value. Served on oblong buns and conveniently cut in half, it’s easy to swap and share, but we’ll tell you right now - the burger with camembert, pear and carmelised onion is the best.

If you’re not a shameless carnivore, opt for the excellent grilled tenderloin salad and a glass of red wine from among their almost one hundred vintages. Second location at ul. Św. Krzyża 15 (J-5).Qul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 422 20 53, www.moomoo.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-100zł). T­­S­W RZEŹNIA - RIBS ON FIRE This small ‘meatery’ offers a concise menu of carnivore cravings - tartar, burgers, blood pudding, sausage and ribs, with sides of fries and slaw, and a good selection of bottled beers. Though that sounds like something you’d find written on the side of a food truck, this place has more class than that with a red-flecked interior that looks could pass for a Spanish tapas bar in a pinch. Order the ribs (no, really - order the ribs) and you get the entire rack, not a sawn-off section, and we guarantee you’ll be sucking the bones clean. The coleslaw is also the best we’ve had in this cabbage crazy country. Tuck in your bib (they’ll provide you with one) and give this a try. Also in the Old Town at Plac Dominikański 2 (J-6).QK‑8, ul. Bożego Ciała 14, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 96, www.restauracjarzeznia.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-119zł). V­­S­W

ASIAN HURRY CURRY Though the name suggests a takeaway window or food truck, this surprising slow food franchise has been a hit in Katowice and their Kraków locale features a large, open and appealing interior with multiple terraces and a full menu of Indian/Asian eats. Essentially an encyclopaedia of world curries, choose from over 20 varieties varying in spice quotient and country of origin, plus other signature world dishes like Tom Yum and Beef Rendang, and beers from Thailand, China, Vietnam and Japan. With so much menu to explore and everything super affordable, multiple visits are almost a given, and unlike most curry establishments, rice actually comes included with your meal.QJ‑5, ul.

Szpitalna 9 (entrance from ul. Św.Tomasza), tel. (+48) 728 42 82 26, www.hurrycurry.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-35zł). T­6­U­S­W TAO GARDEN Another effort from Kraków’s top Asian eateries, Tao and Zen, this one halfway down the left side of the Błonia.

This lot certainly know how to do a great garden - in fact their Podgórze location is unfair competition. Half the seating here is outside, but this garden’s not as green, and 34 Kraków In Your Pocket

iyp.me/krakow

Restaurants its proximity to the road knocks the atmosphere down a couple notches. We’re fans of the food here, however: delicious pad thai, huge portions of tempura, Thai satay, dim sum and all the fresh sushi you can imagine, plus plum wine and sake. Perhaps the least exciting entry in this network, but certainly a fine option if you’re nearby.QF‑6, Al. Marszałka Focha 24, tel. (+48) 695 66 99 66, www. taogarden.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (35-50zł). T­6­U­­ S­W

ul. Szpitalna 9, 31-024 Kraków tel. 728 428 226 www.facebook.com/hurrycurrykrakow

Curries from all over the world

TAO TEPPANYAKI & MORE One of the most intriguing locales in Podgórze, this smart and stylish Japanese and Thai bistro specialises in teppanyaki - dishes spectacularly prepared by their flashy master chef on the Japanese griddle in the middle of the room. The expansive, expert menu includes standards such as edamame, dim sum, pad thai, tempura and bottles of sake, as well as their own specialties like the tasty Tempura Burger. All of it is absolutely delicious, and an able aid for the night’s aims, whether it’s business, romance or simple relaxation.QK‑10, ul. Józefińska 4, tel. (+48) 725 88 03 04, www.taogarden.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (29-55zł).

T­6­U­V­B­S­W ZEN RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kraków’s sushi boom is in full stride, and Zen outdoes much of the competition by hitting the authentic Japanese interior dead-on with a first floor sushi canal where customers snare their desired servings as they float by; dishes are colour-coded by cost so you can keep vague tabs on your inflating tab, or pay 88zł when you drop in Mon-Fri between 12:00 and 18:00 and eat as much as you can. On the more formal second floor, dine ala carte on traditional floor mats. The menu makes an ironic effort not to pander to purists, but rather create an amalgam of European and Asian ingredients and flavours with dishes like duck marinated in orange and cinnamon served with teriyaki sauce.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 29, tel. (+48) 12 426 55 55, www.zensushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30-300zł).

6­V­S­W

BALKAN BALKAN EXPRESS GRILL Drop into this budget Balkan eatery hidden in a large courtyard off of Floriańska for traditional specialties like ćevapi (sausage) sandwiches and tasty pljeskavica burgers slathered in ajvar and served in their own freshbaked buns. Thanks to their huge garden and street food appeal, its a bit of a trendy spot with locals looking a fast, budget meal that’s not a sketchy kebab, or just a beer in the sunshine. BEG’s meats are sourced locally and they’ve now started offering Polish grilled meat platters for those unable to quell their blood sausage cravings. Open early for breakfast (07:00 - 10:00) - not the easiest thing to find on Floraińska before 09:00.

QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 39, tel. (+48) 730 33 32 22, www. balkanexpressgrill.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (12-25zł).

6­V­B­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

ul. Beliny Prażmowskiego 2 D Rondo Mogilskie

February – March 2018

35

Restaurants FRENCH

IN

D IA

LA

द

भ

रा त का स्वा

M AS A

Mały Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Krakow

reservations +48 12 4214756, mail: manager@indiamasala.pl

www.indiamasala.pl

ZAKŁADKA - FOOD & WINE Located in a restored Podgórze tenement just over Bernatek footbridge, this classy bistro - which tackles French delicacies and traditional Polish dishes with equal respect and aplomb - strikes the perfect balance of modern elegance, exciting cuisine and below market prices to be outrageously popular. A perfect date destination, from the moment you step inside seemingly everything - from the sharp monchromatic interior to the excellent food and wine - becomes an aphrodisiac; make a reservation now.QK‑10, ul. Józefińska 2 (entrance from ul. Brodzińskiego), tel. (+48) 12 442 74 42, www.zakladkabistro.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 17:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (35-45zł). T­­W ZAZIE BISTRO This casual Kazimierz eatery is the closest thing Kraków has to a true Parisian bistro - complete with classic set meals (appetiser, entree, dessert) for an affordable 29zł (Tue-Fri only), fois gras, fantastic creme brulee and large slices of quiche. Set over two levels, the ground floor tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk terrace with a wall-length mural of France’s famous phallus, interior streetlights and even a candy-striped roll-out canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks. With the head chef racking up culinary awards, this is a great place to experience outstanding French cuisine without a whiff of snobbery, and an excellent value for your money.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41 08 29, www.zaziebistro.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-49zł).

T­6­S­W

INDIAN THE BEST INDIAN CUISINE IN TOWN

We invite you to enjoy our original Indian dishes.

Catering service available.

Ul. Sławkowska 13-15, phone: 012 4232282, www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00

36 Kraków In Your Pocket

INDIA MASALA As a mainstay anchoring Mały Rynek, this authentic effort from the same team behind Kraków’s top Indian eatery features popular patio seating and a classy, colourful interior infused with the scent of cardamom from the kitchen and sweet tobacco from the exotic hookah bar in the basement. The name may be India Masala, but the menu represents a wide range of regions across India with delicious dishes well-explained in English and wellpresented in traditional metal bowls. As you might guess, weekday afternoons are the perfect time to enjoy this place with lunch sets for 19zł served 12:00 - 16:00.QJ‑5, Mały Rynek 2-3, tel. (+48) 12 421 47 56, www.indiamasala.pl.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (14-45zł). 6­­S­W INDUS TANDOOR Kraków’s oldest Indian restaurant, Indus Tandoor essentially set a new, higher standard for the city’s ethnic eateries when it opened way back in 1998. Full of reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns, the slim interior and canopied patio are bursting with colour, and the near constant people filing in and out speaks to the high quality of the food, prepared by iyp.me/krakow

Restaurants Indian chefs. Try the business lunch specials (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 17:00, 17.50zł) for a fantastic value and variety.QJ‑5, ul.

Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 82, www.indus. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-45zł). ­S­W

INTERNATIONAL ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI An extension of the legendary bar of the same name, Alchemia od Kuchni serves a spot-on menu of sit-down street food, burgers, vegetarian eats and eclectic entrees including fresh fish, curries and more. Open late and also open early, the simple, white tile and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of NYC or Copenhagen’s meatpacking districts, the prices won’t divest you of your beer money, and the service is light years ahead of the bar next door. Rather than just cashing in on the location and crowds, the team behind Od Kuchnia obviously cares, making it possibly our favourite thing about Alchemia these days.QK‑8, ul.

Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882 04 42 99, www.odkuchni.com.

Open 08:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 24:00. (12-29zł). 6­­S­W

Boutique restaurant & exclusive wine selection

BIERHALLE This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name, bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Kraków’s Mały Rynek. At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering 3 different ales most commonly ordered by the litre, but you can also go gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly franchise menu of German bratwurst, breaded cutlets and dumplings has been expanded and improved by star chef Kurt Scheller (and his stellar moustache), all while staying affordable, and open late as well. A helpful multi-lingual menu, nice service, and TVs streaming sports in every room make it a lads magnet, but we found Kraków’s locale to be less rowdy and more refined than expected. This is one of those happy cases where success seems to have actually improved the brand.QJ‑6, Mały Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 517 38 26 42, www. bierhalle.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00.

(10-60zł). T­U­S­W BOTTIGLIERIA 1881 Discreetly hidden off Plac Wolnica, this small, intimate wine bar exudes class and taste with a sharp decór of stonework and timber, an open kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly stocked wine cellar with over 450 vintages.

Chef Paweł Kras offers signature tasting menus (served from 18:00), and also regularly changes the mercifully concise menu of mouth-watering sous vide dishes, which the deft recommendations of the sommelier perfectly complement. A great place for business or courtship, Bottiglieria received an ‘Award of Excellence’ from Wine Spectator magazine, and also a top local award for their cuisine. Hardly a surprise, since there are few venues in Kraków as beautifully elegant and unique as this one.QK‑9, ul. Bocheńska 5, tel. (+48) 660 66 17 56, www.1881.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (30-72zł). W iyp.me/polandblog

ul. Bocheńska 5 Kraków tel +48 660 661 756 February – March 2018

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Restaurants BUNKIER CAFE This veteran crossover venue - essentially an enormous year-round terrace on the Planty - continues to be the same perfect place for an early morning paper read, afternoon coffee and cigarette, after-work drink, casual first date, conversational English lesson, or people-watching piwo that it has been since we first published this guide. In addition to good coffee and cakes, however, Bunkier has gone bistro and now offers some of the best budget eats in the area. Drop in for breakfast until 12:00, after which tuck in to tasty burgers, bagel sandwiches, a yummy pulled pork sandwich, fish and chips, pasta, thin-crust pizza, salads and more. As a result, we spend more time there now than ever before.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 24:00. (15-30zł). 6­B­X­W COPERNICUS Inside one of Kraków’s most exclusive hotels you’ll find one of its most exclusive restaurants, with high-class service inside an elegant gothic interior that features original frescoes. Copernicus is enthusiastically awarded each year, and its gourmet cuisine has been enjoyed by Nobel Prize winners (Miłosz, Szymborska) and political dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl) alike. The menu changes every month and is kept simple by Chef Marcin Filipkiewicz who offers a tasting menu of amazing seasonal flavours; choose between 5 (200zł), 7 (260zł) or 12 courses (370zł). At Copernicus you get what you pay for, making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.QI‑7, ul.

Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.copernicus.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (95100zł). T­­S­W

HAVE YOUR SAY If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in this guide, let the 1.1 million yearly unique visitors to our website, krakow.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website has a function for comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.

RYNEK UNDERGROUND (p.88): A wonderful interactive tour through time. Educational and great fun for kids and adults. You can leave your child in the storytelling room while you explore the museum, or enjoy the show about Krakow legends with him. :) --Marek CHIMERA SALAD BAR (p.40): I was there for the first time - but for sure not the last time. Nice place, really good food. Great idea with the buffett, and the baked potatoes on the oven are a nice touch.

--Maria MEAT & GO (p.40): Holy hell, their new Cuban sandwich is the best damn sandwich I’ve ever had; literally moaning between bites…

--Gary 38 Kraków In Your Pocket

/polandinyourpocket ENOTEKA PERGAMIN This fine effort from Pergamin packs everything needed for any occasion into one historic location. On the ground floor it’s an affordable family bistro where the chefs work behind a long deli counter of local delicacies creating delicious cheese and meat plates, brick-fired pizzas, pastas and seafood dishes. Meanwhile, the upscale cellar features its own dining card, a classy cigar room and cosy wine and cocktail bar. With a huge wine list, the sommelier can recommend the perfect bottle for your meal, and the bartender is one of the best mixed-drink men in town.

Also functioning as a delicatessen and wine shop, Enoteka Pergamin is basically whatever you want it to be, but also one of the few places we know where you can really splash out on a nice bottle of wine and still enjoy an affordable meal.QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 39, tel. (+48) 797 70 55 15, www. enotekapergamin.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (19-89zł).

X­S­W KARAKTER Whatever the magic ingredient is for a successful restaurant, there’s little doubt that Karakter has it. The retro modern interior evoking Miro and Leger, possesses a seemingly effortless panache and undeniable appeal. The authorial menu is both daring and ambitious with horsemeat tartar, mussels prepared 8 different ways and most main dishes sounding like several, for example ‘sweetbreads, ravioli with peas and mint, chanterel mushrooms, and beef cheek.’

Foodies, especially those with buttery-sweet tastes, will be in heaven, though we found some of these inventions are a bit too convoluted. Ideal for a date with wine, the casually dressed staff will assist you with choosing, but make sure you’ve made a reservation if you want a table at this buzzy, ambitious restaurant.QK‑8, ul. Brzozowa 17, tel. (+48) 795 81 81 23. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-45zł). 6­W KRAKOWSKIE METRO No, Kraków doesn’t have a metro (yet!), but this budget eatery is located directly over a tunnel to the train station that could someday become part of such a subway.

Surrounded by offices and drab academic buildings, this funny little historical building on Rondo Mogilskie is the most alluring thing in sight, offering an oasis from the city outside that also happens to serve rather outstanding Polish and Italian dishes. The thin-crust pizzas are quite good, or be brave and try the beer-basted golonka (pork hocks) - a traditional Polish meal and great value at only 23zł. Join their loyal lunch crowd Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 for excellent daily offers of soup, a choice of entree and dessert for only 19.90zł.QM‑4, Al. Płk. Władysława Beliny Prażmowskiego 2D (Rondo Mogilskie), tel. (+48) 888 80 05 00, www.krakowskiemetro.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (9-33zł). T­U­V­S­W iyp.me/krakow

Restaurants

POD RÓŻĄ RESTAURANT 14 Floriańska Street, Krakow

MODERN POLISH CUISINE

www.likusrestauracje.pl

3 RYBKI RESTAURANT 5 Szczepańska Street, Krakow

iyp.me/polandblog

BAR & RESTAURANT 13 Main Market Square, Krakow level -1

COPERNICUS RESTAURANT 16 Kanonicza Street, Krakow

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Restaurants QUICK EATS Here we list the local alternatives to the fast food franchises you might be familiar with from back home (if it’s the ‘Golden Arches’ you’re looking for you’re on your own). Note that Kazimierz is a Mecca for fast street food, with zapiekanki dispensed daily from Plac Nowy, and the food truck movement finding its home on Skwer Judah and Plac Izaaka (p.44). For more fast dining options, get adventurous by visiting a local milk bar (p.52) or Polish Snacks & Shots bar (p.55).

CHIMERA SALAD BAR Sealed off from the elements, this gorgeous courtyard buffet overflows with ambience year round. Full of potted plants, natural sunlight and surrealistic murals, Chimera’s popular salad bar may be the most pleasant budget dining environment in town. Overwhelmingly vegetarian, while it might not be the best food in town, it is fast, cheap and exceedingly easy for foreigners simply say ‘proszę’ and point at your pick of the salads, quiche, stuffed vegetables and more. Recommended.

QI‑5, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12 12, www. chimera.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (14-25zł).

6­­S­W MEAT & GO Hidden in a corner of Tytano, this self-described ‘meat bar’ quickly serves the most tender and delicious deli cuts we’ve tasted anywhere. Their signature porchetta is a revelation, but the new menu extends across a dozen other miracles including pulled pork, jerk pork, pastrami and their new ‘cuban’ ensuring many salivating return visits. Despite the somewhat banal name, Meat & Go doesn’t come off as some kind of caveman lifestyle club, but rather a humble family business with a simple interior of big communal tables with warm orbs of light hanging over them. If you think a sandwich isn’t worth 20+ PLN, this place will change your mind.QG‑5, ul.

Dolnych Młynów 10. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 16:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Tue. (20-30zł). 6­­W PIZZATOPIA This casual and cleverly branded pizza joint on bustling ul. Szewska gives you the exact toppings you want on your pie with their ‘Build Your Own’ option for a flat 24zł - with no limit on ingredients. Choose between the classic or multigrain version of their light, chewy crust, and then from four base sauces, seven different types of cheese (including vegan mozzarella), six kinds of meat, over a dozen veggies, and a dozen finishing sauces from balsamic truffle sauce to rosemary olive oil.

Fast and fired forQI‑5, ul. Szewska 22, tel. (+48) 570 06 51 95, www.pizzatopia.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (20-24zł). 6o­S­W 40 Kraków In Your Pocket

ORZO Literally a breath of fresh air in Zabłocie, Orzo has transformed this large industrial space into an urban oasis of big windows, green walls and potted plants that actually clean the air inside. The menu is an exciting, fusion-flecked affair full of fresh salad bowls, pasta, sandwiches, pizza and steaks, and the house orzo (riceshaped pasta) adds colour to certain dishes to great effect. After work hours, DJs dial up the atmosphere as upstarts from the start-up scene drink smoked cocktails and boozy infusions. Full of bright smiles and bouncy music, Orzo balances smart urbanity with joie de vivre in a way we didn’t realise we were missing until we stepped inside.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4A, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 42, www.orzo.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00.

(19-60zł). T­6­U­S­W PINO Though it’s a bit ironic (if not outright silly) to take a historic Old Town townhouse and make it look like a warehouse with a modern post-industrial interior, such are the today’s trends, and PINO actually pulls it off beautifully. Full of i-beams, wrought iron and exposed brick - and featuring a mezzanine level, open kitchen, pizza oven and seasonal patio dining - the space is exceedingly well-designed and wonderful for casual meetings, family dinners, or afterwork cocktails and beers. The range of the menu covers pizza (recommended), pasta, burgers, seafood, ribs and steaks, you name it - and everything is made on-site, from the burger buns to the ice cream. Affordable and delicious, the service is also great, making this a place worth trying in the Old Town.QI‑5, ul. Szczepańska 4, tel. (+48) 609 01 50 16, www.restauracjapino.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (28-67zł). ­S­W PLAC NOWY 1 Located in a new building buttressing Plac Nowy, this project has won over its initial detractors by adapting to its surroundings with elan, while subtly outclassing them.

With a spacious modern interior full of natural light and plant life, patrons have their choice between the highceilinged ground floor restaurant, or the new second floor sushi and tapas restaurant; between them lies a club, and there’s even bowling in the basement. The main menu wanders across cuisines to follow recent food trends (fancy burgers, tempura), but includes uniquely modern takes on Polish classics as well, and they put a big emphasis on craft beer, offering regional beer tasting sets. Earning wide approval, this is arguably the nicest place to eat on Plac Nowy.QK‑8, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 00, www. placnowy1.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 02:00. (28-69zł). T­U­S­W

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MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13 LEVEL -1 www.likusrestauracje.pl

Restaurants SCANDALE ROYAL Scandale Royal successfully skirts the line between lounge, cafe and bistro by being one of the most stylish places to be all day and night. In more shades of violet than we knew possible, it nonetheless stays well-lit and inviting thanks to wall-length windows and a massive chandelier bisecting the two floors like a fragile fire-pole.

On the card you’ll find salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste, with proper breakfast in the mornings and a late night menu (featuring tapas) served from 17:00 until closing time, over the course of which everything inside - from the cushions to the clientele - looks increasingly edible.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 02:00. (24-72zł). T­X­S­W SISSI RESTAURANT & WINE Formerly known as ‘Sissi Organic Bistro,’ this wonderful restaurant has self-fulfilled its fine dining prophecy by raising its name to the level of its game. The authorial menu emphasises healthy eating and organic ingredients (including their own fresh-baked bread and locally-sourced meat) to create exquisite seasonal fusion dishes. Complemented by savvy sommelier service and choice bottled beers, make sure you finish your meal with their excellent homemade ice cream.

The pleasing interior of blonde woods includes a lovely seasonal garden, and the prices are curiously low for such an elegant experience. Each time we’ve visited we’ve witnessed other patrons literally gushing at their tables over what a pleasant surprise this place is.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 602 23 45 55. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (2065zł). T­6­V­S­W SZARA Enviably located right on the market square, Szara’s reputation as one of the best restaurants in town hasn’t wavered over the years and if you’re looking for a place to impress guests or treat yourself to a special ‘last night in town meal,’ this is a sure bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling arches, crisp linen and outstanding service create an atmosphere of complete elegance, but Szara manages to avoid the stuffiness suffered by other venues of this ilk. Case in point: their modern and casual bar just next door is a smart place to start the day (breakfast served 08:00-12:00), or enjoy a cocktail in the evening.QJ‑6, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69, www.szara.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (45-92zł).

T­U­S­W SZARA KAZIMIERZ Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved local legend status just as quickly.

What makes it so special is not the convenient location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple, 42 Kraków In Your Pocket

affordable and very cheerful, all of Kraków should be like this.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, www.szarakazimierz.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (24-78zł). ­S­W TRADYCYJA Though somewhat haunted by the spectres of past incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner goes largely unused), there’s no need to mess with this historic market square locale, which oddly blends old Polish aristocracy with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted timber ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier (which we love for just that reason). Like the interior, the simple menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to have collected the highlights of previous kitchens, but the results cover for the sometimes uneven service, and the prices are well within reason. Keep an ear out for semi-frequent live folk music and dance performances.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16, www.tradycyja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (21-65zł). T­U­E­W TRZY RYBKI Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring, balancing modern style with the expertly preserved details of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu changes like the seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients.

Favoured by high-flyers and local business honchos who have been regulars for years, this is a Kraków gem.QI‑5, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Hotel Stary), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (85-99zł).

6­U­S­W ZENIT Zenit’s bar and kitchen seem to be in competition with each other to see which can establish itself as the main draw of this all-around excellent venue. This is the place in Kazimierz for a morning cocktail - the drinks are made using homemade syrups and top shelf liquor, and the expert barmen love a new challenge. The breakfast offer (served 09:00 - 13:00) is full of phenomenal hot dishes, which shift with the seasons like the no-less-amazing entrees that fill out the menu. The prices are unfairly low considering the quality, and it all comes with great service from waiters who are actually invested enough in your dining experience to sometimes even convince you to change your order. Filled with framed art and gold paint, that the space feels a bit like a 70s hotel lobby bar isn’t even a concern. Are we gushing? We’re gushing.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 19, tel. (+48) 602 69 19 96. Open 09:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (24-36zł).

T­6­S­W

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Restaurants

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Restaurants FOOD TRUCKS

Kiełbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski

JUDAH SQUARE FOOD TRUCK PARK Food trucks are the latest food fad in PL, and Kazimierz’s Skwer Judah - so named after the massive street mural that adorns it - provides parking for this culinary trend.

With beach chairs, benches and palettes placed all over this concrete pitch, you won’t find a cooler place to catch some quick grub. Tenants change often, but reliable residents include Frytki Belgijskie (Belgianstyle fries), Andrus Food Truck (serving maczanka - the Cracovian pulled pork sandwich), Wurst Truck (sausage) and Chimney Cake Bakery.QK‑9, Skwer Judah, ul. Św Wawrzyńca 16, tel. (+48) 508 70 67 08. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.

KIEŁBASKI Z NIEBIESKIEJ NYSKI This legendary sidewalk sausage stand has been a Cracovian street food institution for over twenty-five years. Here two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside their blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening except Sundays to grill kiełbasa sausages over a wood-fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses.

For 8zł you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable experience.

Kraków’s first food truck, don’t miss it if you’re in the neighbourhood.QK‑6, ul. Grzegórzecka 3 (Plac Targowy). Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PLAC IZAAKA Though more food trucks are hardly needed in Kazimierz (come on guys, can’t we spread the love?), this lot behind the Isaac Synagogue is the most central and arguably the most scenic and atmospheric of the lot(s), thanks to gravel instead of asphalt, some potted plants, and actual attempts at proper seating.

You’ll find here about a half dozen food trucks (less on Mondays) peddling coffee, burgers, hot dogs, Mexican food, falafel and vegetarian fare, kimchi, Czech trdelniki, the shakes and superfoods of Acai Bar, and a draught beer station from the Stajnia Pub across the street.

How’s the stationary competition supposed to stay in business?QK‑8, Corner of Izaaka, Ciemna and Jakuba, tel. (+48) 508 91 88 85. Open 14:00 - 21:00, Fri 14:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

44 Kraków In Your Pocket

ITALIAN AMARONE Upmarket Italian food served in an elegant setting to a discerning audience - all of whom appear to know exactly what they are ordering and how it should be prepared. The pressure is on, but the Amarone team comes through every time and the clients keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread (baked daily), homemade pasta and authentic ingredients straight from Italy in an exclusive atmosphere made Mediterranean via plenty of natural light and potted plants.

Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00 offer a fantastic five-course tasting menu for only 50zł.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (49-65zł). T­6­U­E­W BIANCA This small Italian bistro next to St. Mary’s Basilica comes preceded by a big reputation and strong pedigree courtesy of the local dining dynasty behind La Campana and Wesele.

No surprise then that our scallops were delicious, and though the side dishes (order one) are almost as large as the pasta dishes, the value is still incredible. Close scrutiny of the relaxed, prevalently white (go figure) interior reveals a high level of perfectionism in each element (don’t fail to notice the hand-painted ceiling), but wisely leaves big impressions to the kitchen situated in full view at the end of the intimate room, where the professionalism of the chefs is on full display.QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 2, tel. (+48) 782 29 77 15, www. biancaristorante.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-86zł). T­­W BOCCANERA There’s a comfortable familiarity to Boccanera, which slides in neatly alongside its outstanding sister establishments (La Grande Mamma, Fiorentina and Bianca to name a few) at the top of Kraków’s Italian dining hierarchy. We’ve grown happily accustomed to the warm, multi-textured interior, the open kitchen and the well-trained staff. The menu is a largely familiar line-up of simple pasta dishes, seafood and mussels, but our parpadella con manzo was perfect, and we can also vouch for the pizzas. With an absolutely voluminous interior well-suited for large groups, there’s a prevalent mood of merriment throughout, and no denying the value. Though comfort trumps excitement here, they’ve got their formula down, and Kraków is fortunate to have another Italian restaurant of this calibre.QJ‑5, ul.

Tomasza 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 17 08, www.boccanera.pl.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (22-69zł). U­E­S­W FIORENTINA RISTORANTE PIZZERIA Located on a less hectic stretch of ul. Grodzka, this spacious Italian restaurant boasts an outstanding interior that nicely balances rustic touches like exposed bricks and stripped wood panels, with gleaming silver lamp fixtures and mirrors. With an eclectic assortment of chairs at each table and Elvis and Sinatra crooning overhead, Fiorentina comes off as comfortably casual despite highly professional service and exquisite food from the team at work in the open kitchen. The menu includes perfect wood-fired thiniyp.me/krakow

Restaurants crust pizzas, a delicious tuna tartar, the house specialty Florentine beefsteak and other enticing pasta and seafood dishes that change seasonally. A fine choice for a relaxing and memorable meal near Wawel.QI‑7, ul. Grodzka 63, tel. (+48) 12 426 46 08, www.fiorentina.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (35-300zł). T­U­W INVITO PIZZA & PASTA The concept here is as simple as the food: a stylish interior with a comfortable atmosphere in which to enjoy good company and affordable food. The decor nicely balances touchstones of a casual, rustic trattoria with the elegance of numerous wine racks and classic black and white Belle Epoque photos, thereby outshining the menu which is little more than a concise list of budget pizzas and do-itat-home pasta dishes that come out of the kitchen quickly.

With cute students on the orders, live football action on the big screens, queens Nina Simone and E. Badu on the stereo and low totals on the bill at the end, there’s really nothing to disagree with here.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 33, tel. (+48) 12 421 30 92, www.invitopizza.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (11-35zł). T­U­S­W LA CAMPANA TRATTORIA Planted on picturesque Kanonicza Street, in summertime La Campana Trattoria is worth visiting just to relax in the gorgeous ivy-green garden and cobbled patio; full of sunlight and singing birds, it may be the best dining environment in Kraków; in winter, retreat to the romantic cellars and dream of better weather. From the same tried and true team behind Kogel Mogel and Wesele - two of our favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the pasta and risotto are as good as you’d expect, and the atmosphere is tough to beat.QI‑7, ul.

Kanonicza 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-78zł). ­S­W LA GRANDE MAMMA Located on the corner of the market square, upscale Italian dining is a treat here, with an ambiance ideal for romantic trysts over wine and Brodetto (brothy fish stew), or more casual meetings consecrated with delicious pizzas and pasta.

In addition to outstanding food and service, interior design is another of this grand mamma’s fortes, and the stripped wood and mirrored tiles create a striking balance beneath the arching ceilings. Acute attention is paid to every detail, and the payoff is more than worth the figure on the bill at the end.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 26, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 58, www.lagrandemamma. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (21-68zł). T­­S­W NOLIO Nolio makes authentic wood-fired Neopolitan pizza in strict accordance with Napoletana ingredients (water buffalo mozzarella, pistachios from the foot of Mt. Etna) and technique (dough sits for 8hrs and is fired for 1min).

The interior is black (like the inside of their oven) with blond wood furnishings, and the menu is minimal, offering six types of homemade pasta and a concise choice of pizzas; we recommend the ‘Mezze Luna’ - half pizza, half calzone.

Absolutely packed from the first moment it opened, is this iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants really the best pizza in town? We believe it is.QJ‑9, ul.

Krakowska 27, tel. (+48) 12 346 24 49, www.nolio.pl.

Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (15-49zł). T­6­S

KLEZMER

Klezmer in Isaac Synagogue

photo by Kamila Łabędzka

Kraków is a hotbed for klezmer music, and attending a concert of this energetic, Eastern-infused folk music is a popular option for tourists. Though not much is known about the genre’s early beginnings, klezmer grew out of the musical tradition of the Ashkenazi Jews of Eastern Europe, and was widely popularised in the 18th century by troupes of travelling musicians who performed Yiddish dance tunes at weddings and other celebrations. Originating from Jewish devotional music, the genre evolved significantly at the beginning of the 20th century when it reached the United States via Jewish immigrants, who began to incorporate elements of American jazz music into the sound. After gradually waning in popularity, the genre experienced a revival in the 1970s and 80s as contemporary musicians in the US and Europe were drawn to its strange and forgotten sounds and began investigating its roots.

The name klezmer actually comes from the Hebrew words kli (tool or utensil) and zemer (to make music), translating to ‘vessels of song,’ and initially referred only to the musical instruments themselves, but later became a pejorative word for musicians; it wasn’t until the 1970s that the term klezmer came to denote musical genre. Typical instruments in a klezmer ensemble might include violin, clarinet, accordion, trumpet, trombone, double bass or cimbalon (similar to a hammered dulcimer).

Klezmer’s Polish revival occurred in the 1990s, with its nucleus in Kraków around now-legendary local bands like Kroke and Bester Quartet (formerly The Cracow Klezmer Band), who brought new energy and interest to the genre, inspiring a new generation of players. Today there are dozens of klezmer bands and ensembles performing regularly in the cafes, restaurants, museums and synagogues of Kazimierz - the city’s former Jewish district. Ironically, very few of these bands are Jewish, but mostly composed of Polish Catholic graduates of the Kraków Musical Academy who view their sound as Jewish-inspired world music. Nonetheless, klezmer concerts have essentially become incorporated into the city’s Jewish heritage tourism and seeing a performance is a fine way to spend an evening. Concerts occur almost daily in such restaurants as Klezmer Hois, Ariel and Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (p.46), but also in the Isaac Synagogue (p.99).

46 Kraków In Your Pocket

NEW PIEC NA ZABŁOCIU This modest restaurant in the urban, industrial tangle of Zabłocie (only a short walk from Schindler’s Factory), is a seemingly unlikely, but strong candidate for Kraków’s best pizza. Local pizza wizard Lorenzo transports guests to his boot-shaped motherland with perfect Neopolitanstyle pizzas, flash-baked in the wood-fired oven. With thin, delicious crust and authentic ingredients (no peas and corn here), these 32cm pies are too good to share, so don’t even think about splitting one. If you’re not in the mood for bread, try the fresh oven-baked lasagna or...ramen (don’t tell Lorenzo’s mom!). This place has built a loyal following (particularly among Italians) despite the construction swirling all around it.QN‑9, ul. Ślusarska 3, tel. (+48) 533 11 23 52, www.piecnazablociu.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (20-26zł). T­6­S­W

JEWISH ARIEL You’ll hear mixed reports about Ariel; while our last visit was underwhelming, we’ve met many who extol the virtues of this veteran restaurant’s varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated in a charmingly cluttered style. The live klezmer music is a popular draw and quintessential tourist experience, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being charged (25zł) to listen to it. Performances take place daily and reservations are recommended.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 1718, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20, www.ariel-krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (19-78zł). 6­E­S­W DAWNO TEMU NA KAZIMIERZU (ONCE UPON A TIME IN KAZIMIERZ) From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row of early 20th century trade shops and is decorated with awnings relating to the area’s Jewish heritage. Things are no less colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing machines and carpenters’ work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old Kazimierz spirit, and a must-visit for those tracing the district’s past, enjoy live klezmer, folk or ethnic music every evening except Fridays and Saturdays (check their FB page for details).QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.szeroka1.com.

Open 10:00 - 23:00. (21-49zł). 6­U­E­S­W KLEZMER HOIS Located in an old former mikveh - a ritual Jewish bath house - on ul. Szeroka, this is one of Kazimierz’s most well-established restaurants, and a portal into the dusty sepia days of pre-war Poland. Serving traditional Jewish Galician dishes from the 19th century, the restaurant iyp.me/krakow

Restaurants generally follows kosher rules, though there’s no rabbinical supervision. Incredibly popular klezmer concerts (29zł) take place each evening during dinner at 20:00 - keeping the crowds amused and the wine flowing.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Open 07:00 21:30. (19-59zł). U­E­S­W

LATIN AMERICAN MANZANA Obscurely hidden in what at first appears to be a random Podgórze parking lot, Manzana has found a second life among the locals. Though the menu skews more Tex-Mex, this is still the most authentic Mexican eatery in Kraków by miles. The taquitos and quesadillas are delish, the nachos are enormous (the smaller size is plenty), or couples can make it easy on themselves by sharing the Manzana platter. Though prices are pegged a bit high, the atmosphere in the vast interior and garden is comfortably relaxed, making Manzana the kind of place you’d want to frequent often - which it would appear many American expat families do. With daily specials - including the obligatory Taco Tuesday, great food, and the largest selection of tequilas in town...you know, we’re really quite fond of this place.QL‑10, ul. Krakusa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22 77, www.manzanarestaurant.com.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (19-79zł). T­V­S­W PIMIENTO Behind the stunning gloss and sheen of Pimiento, this sexy upscale Argentine steakhouse on the market square is all about meat - big unapologetic hunks of it. Boasting arguably the best steaks in town, Pimiento gets all their meat straight from Argentina, so if you’ve had one too many Polish cutlets and want a proper steak, head here.

Prices appear steep until you remember how much a good steak costs wherever you last had one, and a selection of South American wines wash it down. Also at ul. Stolarska 13 (J-6), and in Kazimierz at ul. Józefa 26 (K-8).QI‑5, Rynek Główny 30, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 85, www.pimiento.pl.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (45-150zł). ­S­W

Hamsa hummus & happiness israeli restobar

Hamsa - make hummus not war ul. Szeroka 2, Kraków pn-pt 10:00 - 24:00, sb-nd 9:00 - 24:00

Sababa cocktail & club

Sababa means great! ul. Miodowa 41, Kraków środa 18 - 24:00, czw 18:00 - 1:00, pt-sb 18:00 - 3:00, nd 18:00 - 24:00

MIDDLE EASTERN HAMSA In a district whose eateries still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past, here’s a restaurant free of nostalgic p​ re-war décor and wooden roof fiddlers, where ‘Jewish cuisine’ doesn’t mean traditional East European fare. Bright, modern and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties in a casual environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like the humus, babaganoush and muhammarah (our fave), but are also beautifully presented in hand-painted dish ware.

Fairly-priced and generally a breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 2 / ul. Miodowa 41, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.hamsa.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (40-70zł). T­6­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants POLISH

Traditional Polish cuisine, modern character

Open: Sun- Thu 10-22 Fri-Sat 10-24 ul. Sławkowska 13-15, Kraków tel. 12 430-61-08 www.czerwonekorale.eu

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back.

This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment.

Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).

As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.

48 Kraków In Your Pocket

CZERWONE KORALE Though discreet from the street, this is one of the most vibrant and welcoming eateries in the Old Town. Cheerful wicker chandeliers wound with bright ribbons and beads give off a warm glow, while photos of highlanders and maidens frolicking in folk costumes line the walls. Even more colour comes from the kitchen, which serves all the Polish standards, but with some creative innovations and a flair for presentation you’d hardly expect. There’s an entire page of vegetarian dishes(!) and breakfast until 12:00, after which 17-25zł lunch deals last until 16:00. Overall the high quality equals a great value.QJ‑5, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 430 61 08, www.czerwonekorale.com.pl.

Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (13-45zł). ­S­W ED RED This upscale ‘beef-stro’ (our turn-of-phrase, thanks) specialises in locally-sourced seasoned meat, dry-aged onsite for at least twenty days. With an industrial interior offset by large timber tables, and featuring a vast open kitchen, Ed Red conveys the atmosphere of an NYC steakhouse, but the curt menu is built upon local Polish products and delicacies that change every three months. alongside a wide selection of wines. Though casual in style, the service is outstandingly professional, and everything from the tempting and creative culinary cocktails to the monogrammed cloth napkins reveals that this is a fully thought-out effort. We were positively impressed.QI‑5, ul. Sławkowska 3, tel. (+48) 690 90 05 55, www.edred.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. (27-87zł). T­U­S­W ENKLAWA RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR Located in the corner of the vast Tytano complex, the subtly surreal and organic touches of Enklawa’s interior do indeed manage to make it feel like it exists within its own world, thus living up to the name (Enclave). The menu is essentially Polish, but largely gluten-free, from the breakfast sets (served until 14:00) to the crepes and unique flatbreads (podpłomyki) to the truly top-notch entrees. Trading more on atmosphere than food trends, it’s also the perfect place for a craft beer and signature cocktail.QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 602 76 15 88, www.enklawarestauracja.pl. Open 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (25-55zł). T­6­V­S­W NEW HEVRE Formerly a Jewish prayer house; currently a trendy cocktail bar, cafe, restaurant and even weekend club. With antique chandeliers, peeling frescos and Beach House grooves from the speakers, the atmosphere pegs Hevre as more of a hip dive bar, but the young kitchen team here have put together an extremely creative menu of authorial dishes based on old Galician eating traditions. Choose from such daunting but delish dishes as cow tongue pastrami or ‘Jewish caviar’ chicken liver mousse marinated in herbs and brandy, served with pickled cranberries and carmelised nuts. Breakfast is served 10:00 - 14:00, and the kitchen continues to serve iyp.me/krakow

Restaurants appetisers late until 01:00. One of Kraków’s most evocative and complete venues, and one of our new favourites.QJ‑8, ul. Meiselsa 18, tel. (+48) 509 41 36 26. Open 10:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (25-32zł). 6­­S­W KOGEL MOGEL This refined restaurant minutes from the market square reaches back to a pre-war palette, aesthetic and atmosphere, offering a perfect environment for big social banquets, family feasts and chivalrous courtship. Explicit care is taken to offer tourists arguably the best impression they’ll get of local cuisine and hospitality almost anywhere, with particularly excellent duck and goose dishes coming out of the kitchen. Live piano music, an excellent wine list and the wonderful seasonal terrace only add to the warm ambience and assure Kogel Mogel a seat at the table of Kraków’s best Polish restaurants.

QJ‑6, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426 49 68, www.kogelmogel.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (23-79zł). E­­S­W L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT Formerly known as Bar 13, Likus has revamped their excellent wine bar more in the mould of their other culinary successes, and now serves modern Polish cuisine with Italian influences. Drawing from the exclusive vintages (served by the glass or bottle) and local delicacies of the adjacent delicatessen and wine shop, the dining room features a contemporary open kitchen and minimalist menu that uses fresh seasonal ingredients to create rich, signature dishes.

Located in Pasaż 13, dining in the cellar of a shopping mall has never been this classy.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (25-79zł). U­­S­W METRUM RESTOBISTRO One of Kraków’s best kept secrets, this modest student restaurant on the 6th floor of the Music Academy (take the elevator!) boasts two fantastic rooftop patios with beautiful panoramic views over the Old Town. Partially covered in glass, in winter you can still stay warm (but also step out into the air for photos!), while in summer there are exposed tables right on the roof of the city. The food is priced for starving musicians, and about a half step above most student canteens. But it’s not about the food, it’s about the incredible views, which are absolutely worth checking out, whether you’re hungry or not.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 43, tel. (+48) 608 67 76 68. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. (17-30zł). T­6­U­S MIÓD MALINA (HONEY RASPBERRY) This cheerful restaurant comes with raspberries painted on the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates dark evenings. There are floral touches aplenty here, lending an enchanted fairy tale atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cooking, plus breakfast each day until 12:00. With long standing as one of the best values and top restaurants in town, book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by the raised window-side seating.QJ‑6, ul. Grodzka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Open 10:00 23:00. (36-74zł). T­U­B­W iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants POD ANIOŁAMI (UNDER THE ANGELS) One of the city’s most historic and charming restaurants, Pod Aniołami offers a quintessentially Cracovian encounter with royal medieval Polish cuisine. Filled with historical artefacts, this cavernous, candle-lit, almost monastic haven is incredibly warm and inviting considering that some of its 13th century dining areas are two levels underground.

The extensive menu is an overview of everything that was enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of old, including special recipes made with actual gold - an homage to the building’s past as a goldsmithy. One of Kraków’s richest restaurant experiences and highly recommended.QI‑6, ul.

Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami. pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00. (30-76zł). 6­I­S­W

THE OBWARZANEK

© Chris Brown

Any culinary journey through Kraków is likely to start with the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds, obwarzanki are sold from blue rolling carts on every other street corner in Kraków, and are so inescapable they’ve become an unofficial symbol of the city. Known as the ‘Cracovian bagel,’ the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish word for ‘par-boiled’ and therefore differs slightly from the bagel, in addition to being its internationally popular counterpart’s predecessor. Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are complex, confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that it was invented by Kraków Jews after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the production of baked goods to the Kraków Bakers Guild. First written mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile dates back earlier to 1394, meaning that it’s been a daily sight on Kraków’s market square for over 600 years. In 2010 it was given prestigious PGI (Protected Geographic Indication) status as a protected regional food.

Although increased tourism in recent years has jacked the price of an obwarzanek up to around 1.50zł (sacrilege!), you’ll still see countless people on the go munching these braided pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying an obwarzanek leaves a lot up to chance. Cracovian bakers produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer, despite the fact that on leaving the oven the baked goods have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, finding a fresh one is essential. To ensure you do, consider a trip to the Obwarzanek Museum (p.126), where you can make your own. Enjoyed by people of all ages, obwarzanki also feed Kraków’s entire pigeon population when in the evenings the city’s 170-180 obwarzanki carts essentially become bird-food vendors.

50 Kraków In Your Pocket

POD NOSEM An elegant upscale dining experience on Kraków’s oldest street, ‘under the nose’ (as the name translates) of Wawel Castle - tantalising smells from the open kitchen will hit yours upon entry. Pod Nosem uses the sous vide method to create a curt menu of modern, beautifully presented Polish and international cuisine, which changes every time we visit. The interior has some fine and creative touches with regal tapestries, embroidered seating, gorgeous dishware and some clever lamp fixtures whose profile pay tribute to the name. Utterly professional, and guaranteed to be one of the most unforgettable parts of your experience in Kraków.

QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel. (+48) 12 376 00 14, www. podnosem.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (59-99zł). I­­W POD RÓŻĄ (UNDER THE ROSE) Excellent Polish cuisine served under the glass atrium of the magnificent Pod Różą Hotel. The open and elegant design features plenty of potted plants, a piano perched on a raised platform and mezzanine seating overlooking the main floor. In addition to delicious coffees, to-die-for desserts, and an extensive wine list, the menu of seasonally inspired entrees includes a menagerie of perfectly prepared poultry and large game. Prices are high, but then so are the standards.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.podroza.hotel.com.pl/ restauracje. Open 18:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

(49-69zł). T­U­E­W POD WAWELEM The place to visit if you’re looking to hit your daily calorie quota in one meal. Huge portions of standard Polish fare cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards they’re served on, while uniformed staff weave between the bench seating serving frothing steins of lager. Great for groups and families, kids have their own large rumpus area, while the grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over energetic live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and half-price on Mondays, and there’s a handy ‘vomitorium’ in the men’s room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for those suffering from over-consumption. Now a second location in the Cloth Hall (Restauracja Sukiennice).QJ‑7, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (21-40zł). T­U­E­B­S­W iyp.me/krakow

Restaurants QUALITA RESTAURANT In addition to an opportunistic location next door to the ICE Congress Centre (where pickin’s are slim), the Q Hotel’s Qualita restaurant has another ace up its sleeve - head chef Marcin Dudek, whose culinary exploits have been awarded by Gault & Millau. Though the modern interior is typical of most hotel restaurants, the mouth-watering menu of contemporary Polish and European dishes is wholly original. Changing regularly, emphasis is put on only the freshest, most highquality local ingredients, plus Polish meads and local craft beers. Stop in for lunch (13:00 - 17:00 every day) to save some coins, but this is a delicious meal you can bank on.QH‑9, ul. Wygrana 6 (Q Hotel Plus Kraków), tel. (+48) 12 333 40 20, www.qhotels.pl/en/krakow-plus/restaurant/qualitarestaurant. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (29-89zł). T­U­W RESTAURACJA SUKIENNICE Known for their enormous schnitzel pork chops (seriously, just split one), daily promotions (including 1-litre beers for only 8.50zł on Mondays!) and complimentary cherry vodka shots with the check, this restaurant has secured success in one of the most high-rent locales in the country. Less beer-hally than its sister establishment Pod Wawelem, enjoy outdoor seating in the shadow of the Town Hall Tower in warm weather, or the surprisingly intimate Austro-Hungary-inspired interior inside the Cloth Hall, all while stuffing yourself silly on local specialties at some of the lowest prices on the market square. The fact that it isn’t a shameless tourist trap, makes it even more of a tourist magnet.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 09 09, www.sukiennice-restauracja.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (18-43zł). T­­S­W

„One of the best dining experiences we have ever had. This place deserves a michelin star!”

James by krakow.inyourpocket.com

SMAKOŁYKI An editorial favourite. Budget food isn’t hard to come by in this town, but when it does, it’s typically service and ambience that you sacrifice for your savings. Not here though. This hip, trendy bistro serves simple, delicious Polish cuisine inside a spacious, slightly urban, slightly retro interior that features a mezzanine and nifty wall art made from pinned string. Daily specials make the deals even sweeter, and plenty of space, plus an abundance of wall plugs and wifi that actually works(!), also make this a great place to work.QH‑5, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12 430 30 99, www.smakolyki.eu. Open 08:00 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (9-24zł). T­6­S­W SZARA GĘŚ Nestled on the market square among some of the most exclusive restaurants in town, ‘The Grey Goose’ has established itself as one of the city’s best places for an exquisite, romantic dinner or special event. The kitchen has carved out a unique niche, offering innovative modern dishes borne out of Polish tradition, with an inclination towards poultry. In fact, go ahead and make your entire meal goosethemed if you can - from the foie gras ice cream appetiser (amazing!), to the glazed goose leg, to the signature ‘Szara Gęs’ dessert. Actually resembling an oversized goose egg in a nest, this last invention is so over-the-top you have to love it.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 63 11, www. szarages.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (38-89zł). T­U­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

Kraków, ul. Grodzka 40 tel. +48 12 430 04 11 www.miodmalina.pl

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Restaurants MILK BARS

A lot has changed since communism got kneecapped and Poland joined the EU. While many of the old ways of the old days have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied in today’s tourist-laden Kraków, one relic remains resolutely un-Western: the Polish milk bar (‘bar mleczny’ in Polish). These steamy cafeterias serving proletariat cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for anyone who has just set foot in the country.

Poland’s first milk bar was actually opened on Kraków’s own market square on May 30th, 1948. As restaurants were nationalised by PL’s communist authorities, milk bars appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairybased meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible, apparently); in fact meals at the local milk bar were often included in a worker’s salary. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. Times were so desperate under communism that many milk bars chained the cutlery to the table to deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning you’ll notice that most milk bars today use disposable dishes and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups with a spoon.

Similarly, the orders are still taken by ashen-faced, allbusiness babcias (Polish grannies), and the food is as inspired as ever - the only difference being that meat is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, some of these feed museums were saved and continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time approaches, so go early, go often.

BAR GÓRNIKQH‑5, ul. Czysta 1, tel. (+48) 12 632 68 99. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (5-15zł). N­­S POD TEMIDĄ The easiest to find: look for the blue and white ‘Bar Mleczny’ sign.QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12 422 08 74. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (10-18zł). U­N­S 52 Kraków In Your Pocket

WIERZYNEK Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was attended by five kings and nine princes. Since then it’s been one esteemed guest after another, with every world leader or A-lister that comes to town taken here to be impressed. The immaculate interiors of original period furnishings, tapestries, oil paintings and timber ceilings aren’t too dissimilar from a tour of Wawel Castle and you can expect a royal treatment from the staff. The seriously high-end menu is based on the traditional feasting habits of the Polish monarchy, but it hasn’t failed to adopt modern influences as well, meaning you’ll eat like a king and remember the experience - one you could only have in Kraków - for quite a long time.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 728 87 10 71, www.wierzynek.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (69-146zł). T­E­W NEW ZALIPIANKI A winning project from model turned celebrity chef Ewa Wachowicz, Zalipianki offers contemporary Polish food in a relaxing environment at affordable prices. The feminine interiors feature soft lighting and elaborate handpainted floral patterns on every wall, before opening into an absolutely lovely year-round terrace right on the Planty. The perfect place to take the parents, the menu turns familiar Polish tastes into something exciting and new - on a cold day, try the zalewajka soup (a rye soup with smoked meat, quail eggs and chanterelles) or boar goulash with root veggies and dumplings. There’s also a large wine list and selection of local alcohols, including their own house nalewki (tinctures) - finish your meal with a shot of quince or rowanberry liqueur; or get a tasting set of six for 38zł.QI‑5, ul. Szewska 24, tel. (+48) 502 84 55 79, www.zalipianki.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (25-72zł). T­6­B­S­W

SPANISH EUSKADI With an expert chef, imported Spanish products and fresh seafood flown in from Venice, this tiny restaurant in Podgórze is Kraków’s only Basque eatery. The menu offers Spanish wines and an exotic range of tapas and tiny entrees, the simple descriptions of which don’t do justice to their rich flavour - meat and cheese plates, olives, octopus, fried shrimp (amazing), fried ham croquettes (delicious), rabbit livers (we weren’t brave enough). Designed for sharing, we reckon you need to order at least four dishes per person, and with the price of each around 24zł, it’s not the cheapest meal out. That said, this is food you certainly can’t make at home. With a super casual, social atmosphere, this a recommended choice for an intimate evening with just a few friends; due to its popularity reservations are strongly urged.

QK‑10, ul. Kazimierza Brodzińskiego 4, tel. (+48) 535 48 40 56. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:30. (827zł). U­­S­W iyp.me/krakow

Superb Restaurant in Krakow February 13, 2017 - TripAdvisor

Kraków, ul. Œw. Tomasza 15 tel. +48 12 422 17 08 www.boccanera.pl

Design – awesome, pizza – the best, service – lovely. Everything is great.

July 27, 2017 – Facebook

Restaurants HEALTHY EATS Though perhaps a bit slow to the table, the same healthy food trends that have swept most major cities have found their place in Kraków as well. Here we list restaurants dedicated to local, organic, ecological cuisine, and to promoting a healthy lifestyle.

BISTRO GOTUJEMY This non-profit culinary project from the same folks behind Podgórze’s Parsley Market, finishes the sequence of farm to farmer’s market to table with its menu of delicious dishes made from fresh, local, organic products and ingredients. Enjoy seasonal enticements like spelt pasta with pumpkin and kale filled with plums and walnuts with cinnamon-rum sauce - each fully annotated to reflect which farm and farmer it was sourced from. There’s a real community behind this place and it carries over to the friendly, family atmosphere of the restaurant, which features a stellar kids’ area. Yeah, the prices are a few złoty extra, but you get what you pay for, and it goes back into the community. That’s satisfying.QL‑10, ul. Limanowskiego 16, tel. (+48) 792 48 48 80, www.bistrogotujemy.pl. Open 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon. (23-42zł). T­6­S­W VANILLA SKY The flagship restaurant of Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky is one of the city’s only restaurants to use only certified organic ingredients, and the chef constructs a tantalising menu of Italian and Polish influenced fusion dishes that change with the seasons and will make you happily commit to the eco-craze. Set in the centre of a spacious dining room on the hotel’s third floor, the well-dressed tables circle a gorgeous grand piano on which evening concerts are performed Wed-Sat, as well as Sunday afternoons.QF‑8, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.pl.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (46-69zł). T­U­E­S­W ZIELONYM DO GÓRY On the ground floor of the Lwowska 1 Aparthotel, Zielony Do Góry occupies a large, open locale lined with floor-toceiling windows and festooned with green plant fronds.

Though it first scans as a strictly vegetarian resto, the onus here is more on healthy, perfectly balanced dishes made from locally-sourced ingredients and their own fresh-baked bread. Meatless dishes are actually in the minority, but the menu does indeed put veggies to the fore (‘do góry’ that is) in its philosophy and phrasing; for example: ‘herb dumplings with spiced ginger-cabbage jam, pickled plum sauce and baked duck thigh’ (oh, right, duck). Completely casual, but with an ambience (and wine list) that works for romance, prices are very reasonable, and they open early to offer arguably the best breakfast on this side of the river.QM‑10, ul. Lwowska 1, tel. (+48) 572 50 34 21. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 23:00. (26-39zł). T­6­S­W 54 Kraków In Your Pocket

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN For a city in a country that generally considers fish vegetarian and cooks almost everything with lard (even smearing it on their bread as a snack), there are a surprisingly high number of quality vegetarian restaurants in Kraków. More and more Poles are turning to a vegetarian lifestyle as a healthier alternative to the stodgy, starchy national cuisine and there are even a decent number of places for vegans in town now. Though local vegetarians could at one time complain that they’ve got it bad, that is simply not the case anymore. The venues listed below are exclusively vegetarian or vegan, but you’ll also find excellent vegetarian options elsewhere in places like Chimera’s Salad Bar (p.40), Hamsa (p.47) and Bistro GotuJemy (p.54), for example.

CAFE MŁYNEK For many years the best cafe south of ulica Józefa, Cafe Młynek is a great escape from the bustle of Plac Nowy.

In addition to a classic Kazimierz art gallery atmosphere, good coffee (including drip) and square-side seating in summer, Młynek also serves a smattering of yummy vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free dishes like hummus, falafel, vegan latkes, Spanish tomato soup (like gazpacho, but served hot) and a big vegan breakfast.QK‑9, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 02. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 23:00. (16-26zł). T­6­S­W KARMA One of Kraków’s most forward-thinking locales, in addition to excellent, free-trade coffee and tea, this modern cafe offers a range of treats for those who have embraced vegan or gluten-free lifestyles. All of the outstanding baked goods, including tarts, cakes and cookies, are made on site, and daily specials include delicious vegetarian soups, stir-fry and curries at great prices. There’s even a breakfast menu, giving you every reason to go early and often. For vegans, vegetarians, and anyone who enjoys great coffee, Karma is a must-visit.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 662 38 72 81, www.karmaroasters.com.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (15-25zł).

T­6­S­W KROWARZYWA VEGAN BURGER Kraków’s cool kids keep queueing out the door for Krowarzywa’s cheap vegan burgers and soy dogs. Choose from 5 standard ‘burger’ patties - millet (‘jaglanex’), seitan, chickpea (‘cieciorex’), veggie and tofu, plus outstanding weekly inventions - pick your sauce and whether you want it in a bun, wrap or bowl, and then leave the rest to the riot grrrls on the grill, whose assembly line efficiency is something to behold. The interior is as simple as the menu, and, as if their hipster cred could possibly be in question, Krowarzywa has their own bottled yerba mate brand. Honestly, we eat here once a week, and it’s encouraging to see a place like this gain traction just off the market square. Check it out.QI‑5, ul.

Sławkowska 8, tel. (+48) 531 77 71 36, www.krowarzywa. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (11-17zł). T­6­S iyp.me/krakow

Restaurants NEW MASSOLIT COOKS By the same brains behind Kraków’s beloved expat bookstore, Massolit Cooks celebrates this local American institution’s other love: food. Inside a simple, casual locale defined by peeling walls and a beautiful portal window, Massolit’s Kazimierz venture offers their same delicious bagels, New York cheesecake, carrot cake, banana bread, brownies and more, while adding affordable vegetarian breakfasts and daily lunch specials. More than just an eatery, this is a relaxed place for work, study or chit-chat, where it’s all too easy to feel at home.

QK‑8, ul. Józefa 25, tel. (+48) 12 422 19 82. Open 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon. (17-25zł). T­6­S­W POD NORENAMI Proficient in the dark metamorphic magic of the soybean like no other place we’ve seen in PL, Pod Norenami’s long menu features tofu, mock chicken and mock beef prepared in an astounding variety of traditional dishes from the kitchens of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Korea and China. While some Far East standbys (curries, tempura, sushi, pad Thai) aren’t new to Kraków, a vegetarian restaurant that emphasises mock meat certainly is, and the results have people packing the tables and returning often. A fun place to fool or educate the Polish palate, the interior is modest and casual as opposed to modern and kitsch. Do Kraków’s vegetarians have it hard?

Hardly.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 661 21 92 89, www. podnorenami.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-40zł). T­­S­W VEGANIC An outstanding vegan/vegetarian restaurant in the Tytano complex, Veganic possesses both an elegant backdrop for a romantic dinner, and an enormous seasonal garden for hipsters hangabouts. A great place to discover new ingredients, enjoy a wide range of excellent, healthy, vegan and gluten-free breakfasts, soups, pastas, shakes and desserts. Among the menu’s gorgeously presented, quickly-served temptations are the smoked tofu steak, beetroot falafel burger, and kale cocktails. Paired with ecowines and craft beers, it’s impossible to oversell Veganic, which vaults itself to the top of the list of Kraków’s vegetarian restaurants.QH‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 668 46 84 69, www.veganic.com.pl. Open 10:00 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (24-29zł). T­6­S­W WIELOPOLE 3 This ‘super foods’ cellar restaurant is super indeed, and consistently surprises. Though located on an otherwise avoidable street and a bit lacking in atmosphere, the simple and clearly labelled vegetarian, vegan, raw and glutenfree dishes are absolutely gourmet, the service is friendly and the value is just unbeatable. Choose a scrumptious Asian-inspired ‘Buddha Bowl’ or go for the daily lunch special; enjoy a range of hearty raw vegan smoothies or get your greens in the form of a wheatgrass shot. Heartily recommended and here’s hoping it overcomes obscurity to become the local lunch bar of choice for everyone in the neighbourhood.QJ‑6, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 506 02 47 67. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (15-20zł). T­6­U­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS

Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa

Photo by Karol Grzenia

A very popular Polish phenomenon is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), these trendy dives cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of Soviet-era bar food, and drinks at half the usual price. Much like an all-night milk bar with a liquor license, Zakąski Przekąski bars are a great place to keep the party going and meet the city’s strangest characters.

AMBASADA ŚLEDZIA (THE HERRING EMBASSY) There’s a vodka and śledź bar on seemingly every corner in Kraków these days, and we’re gonna go ahead and blame Ambasada Śledzia for this fishy fad. They were first, and if we’re judging by food, they’re also the best. In case you’re wondering, pickled herring (śledź) is a ‘delicacy’ in these parts in the same way that vodka is local parlance for ‘medicine.’ The two go great together and for a combined 18zł it’s a cheap fling with foreign culinary culture. When the main ‘Herring Embassy’ shutters, the all-night shenanigans carry on down the street at ul. Stolarska 5 (‘Śledź u Fryzjera,’ open 12:00 - 05:00).QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel. (+48) 662 56 94 60. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. ­W PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA Well-positioned on Doubting Thomas Lane, Pijalnia’s around-the-clock crowds make it hard to miss. Flooded inside and out with students and street urchins, Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried and trendy formula: offer cheap drinks (all costing exactly 4.50zł) and a small menu of traditional vodka and beer snacks (all costing 9zł) in dingy environs that conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and ostentation of the city’s nightlife. Did we get that right?

Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnia’s faithful have us in the fold for being one of the city’s most fun destinations at (almost) any time of day or night (they only close for two hours in the morning), and for making vodka blindness cool again. Finally! Also at ul. Floriańska 34 (J-5), ul. Szewska 20 (I-5) and Pl. Nowy 7 (K-8).QJ‑5, ul. Św. Jana 3-5 (entrance from ul. Św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80 75. Open 08:00 - 06:00. N­W February – March 2018

55

Nightlife

Scena 54: where grown-ups go out (p.62).

If you believe urban legend (like we do), Kraków has the highest density of bars and clubs in the world. Simply hundreds of drinking dens can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of course, are thousands of students, and the millions of tourists that flock to Kraków every year. With increased tourism comes increased prices, however, and these days you can expect to pay 10zł (2.35 Euros) for a large lager these days, and up to 15zl (3.5 Euros) for a craft beer.

For clubbing, the main hedonist high streets are Floriańska (J-5) and Szewska (I-5) where nary a medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or Saturday night; you can also expect most clubs to charge a cover of anywhere from 5-20zł those nights. While the opening hours we list here are confirmed by the venues themselves, most are rather flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring.

Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so use our website - iyp.me/krakow - to find reviews of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Below is a list of nightlife recommendations depending on what you’re looking for.

COCKTAILS The best in town are at Mercy Brown (p.60) - a pseudospeakeasy with 1920s panache, whose success has been replicated by Sababa (p.61) in Kazimierz. For a more mature, monied crowd it’s Scena54 (p.62), for live jazz and boudoir sensuality it’s The Piano Rouge (p.63), or for signature drinks down the pub it’s Tram Bar (p.63).

56 Kraków In Your Pocket

CRAFT BEER Microbrews are all the rage in Kraków, so there’s simply no excuse for drinking bad beer anymore. Take your tipples in House of Beer (p.59), Weźże Krafta (p.60), or Omerta (p.60) and you can officially consider yourself a beer snob.

STUDENTS Students will go anywhere with cheap drinks - namely Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.55), but for a more frisky international crowd hit Teatro Cubano (p.65). Those who like to dress up and dance head to Shine (p.65), Lokal and Prozak (p.64).

COUPLES Couples looking for some face time should share a bottle in Bottiglieria 1881 (p.37), catch some live jazz in Piec’Art (p.61), converse by candlelight in Mleczarnia (p.60), and have a final nightcap in Mercy Brown (p.60).

KAZIMIERZ Kazimierz (p.94) has become known as much for its nightlife as its Jewish heritage. Synonymous with candlelit bars stuffed with antiques and bohemians, where under the stewardship of alcohol one can commune with a lost, forgotten world, check out classic bars in the district like Alchemia (p.57), Eszeweria (p.57) and Singer (p.62).

ALL-NIGHTER When most bars start closing, Singer (p.62) starts peaking, with the tabletops turning into dancefloors. If you still want some company after the sun has come up, find any Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa location (p.55). iyp.me/krakow

Nightlife SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted 6 Animal friendly U Facilities for the disabled E Live music X Smoking room available

W Wi-fi connection

o Year-Round Garden

BARS & PUBS ALCHEMIA One of Kraków’s most evocative bars, the aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day, in the evenings Alchemia’s murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when it’s not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer festivals, and the adjacent Alchemia od Kuchni serves a full menu of excellent eats until 23:00 (24:00 Fri & Sat). Essential in every way.QK‑8, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Mon 09:00 - 02:00, Thu 08:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. E­X­W DYM (SMOKE) Lost in the sauce somewhere between cafe and bar, Dym is a long, dark drinking den, the dull design of which is made up for by the character of the clientele: primarily self-proclaimed artists and intellectuals that blow a lot of smoke. How many advances and grants have been squandered here is hard to know, but spend a few nights at Dym and you’re guaranteed to become a character in at least two unfinished novels. Yes, we were all so full of promise back then; back before all our ambition and drive went into drink, our bank accounts zeroed and we ended up scribbling for this rag... Ah, glory days.QJ‑5, ul. Św.

Tomasza 13, tel. (+48) 12 429 66 61. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. 6­N­W ESZEWERIA Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszeweria’s old world antiques, candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls once played host to some of the city’s most novel concerts, however these days it’s more of a sleepy hangout for hip nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling off their lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet drink and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the large seasonal garden is lush oasis, and the restroom may be the most romantic in town (no wonder there’s a queue).

QK‑8, ul. Józefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27. Open 10:00 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. U­N­X­W iyp.me/polandblog

February – March 2018

57

Nightlife TYSKIE BREWERY

MUSEUM OF THE DUKE’S BREWERY IN TYCHY The Tyskie Brewery, located some 10km south of Katowice in the town of Tychy, has been brewing beer continuously for nearly 400 years. Originally Germanowned, today Poland’s most famous brewery produces over 8,000,000 hectolitres of ale annually, and 13 varieties of beer, including Tyskie Gronie lager - Poland’s bestselling beer. The enormous historical brewing complex is one of Silesia’s architectural marvels, much of which is open to the public for guided tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a humorous and informative guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through the entire modern production process and the four-century history of the brewery, beginning in the Brewery Museum.

Housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic church built in 1902, this rather superb space combines modernity and tradition across several fascinating multimedia exhibits on the craft of brewing, serving and imbibing beer, and displays full of historical brewing equipment and beer paraphernalia. A 3D film also tracks the history of the Tyskie Brewery through the ages. Next your tour takes you through parts of the production plant, starting from the Old Brewery - an immaculately-preserved space filled with decorative tiles and WWI-era copper vats that have had modern brewing equipment cleverly fit inside them. Highlights include saucy tales from the socalled ‘Bachelors’ Quarters,’ a glimpse of the brewery’s own railway station and a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling plant. And of course it all concludes with a free pint in the on-site pub. Tours are available in Polish, English, German, Italian, Czech and Russian, and must be booked in advance. For an extra 20zł, take the extended Ducal Tasting School tour, which includes workshops and tastings with a beer expert.

The easiest way to get to Tychy from Kraków is by car and the 85km journey takes about 1.5hrs. Alternatively, the train takes about 3hrs and involves a change in Katowice; the brewery is only a short walk from Tychy train station.Qul. Katowicka 9, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.zwiedzbrowar.pl. Open 10:00 20:00. Closed Sun, Last entrance 3hrs before closing.

Visitors must be over 18 and should call in advance to book a place on the tour. Admission 30/25zł; groups over 20, 28zł/person.

58 Kraków In Your Pocket

FORUM PRZESTRZENIE In the former reception lobby of the Soviet-era Forum Hotel, this is one of Kraków’s most original, intriguing and effortlessly cool locales. The owners have simply added dozens of bean bags, sofas and a bit of street art sensibility to the original interiors, assembled a highly competent kitchen to create stellar sandwiches, salads and pizzas, stocked the bar with decent beer, and watched the talented, tattooed post-college crowd (“hipsters” you might call them) turn this vast riverside venue into one of the trendiest places to be day or night. With great views and plenty of space, when it’s warm their huge riverside terrace is sprawling with beach chairs, while inside there’s enough space for ping-pong tables and foosball. DJ parties and other events are a constant, making Forum one of the most unpredictable and exciting venues in town.QI‑10, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515 42 47 24, www.forumprzestrzenie.com. Open 10:00 02:00. E­­W HARD ROCK CAFE Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the market square and Cloth Hall from Hard Rock’s modern split-level bar. The chaps here know how to make that drink and the smiling faces can sometimes be all you need after a long day facing stern museum curators. This is also one of the only places in town that has a ‘happy hour,’ which ironically starts after 22:00 Mon-Thu. Overall, HRC isn’t the cheapest place in town, but it’s one of comfort for many.

QJ‑5, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 10:00 - 01:00.

6­U­B­W HEVRE This former Jewish prayer house has been turned into a tasteful, modern and perfectly Kazimierski restaurant/bar/ club. Though badly damaged during WWII, the interior still retains traces of the original frescos and the mechitza (a balcony for separating men and women), giving it a real feeling of history, as well as a social, uniquely Cracovian atmosphere. The bar is the only place in Kraków to offer Pilsner Urquell straight from the tank - and they do so in three ways, depending on how much you appreciate beer

iyp.me/krakow

Nightlife Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App foam. Signature cocktails and stellar Galician cuisine are also served, from breakfast options (served 10:00 - 14:00) to late night appetisers (served until 01:00). On weekends Hevre doubles as a dance-party destination when they open the upstairs and basement levels for DJ-driven raveups.QJ‑8, ul. Meiselsa 18, tel. (+48) 509 41 36 26. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. E­X­W HOUSE OF BEER With over 200 bottles and 21 draught beers over two bars, this high-ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large leather sofas helped lead the charge to improve the beer culture of Poland’s drinking capital. Now they’ve gotten even better with a scrumptious selection of hot sandwiches, including pulled pork, po’ boys and sweet potato fries. Full of foreigners and locals alike, the atmosphere is friendly without being overly laddish, or having the unnecessary distraction of TVs nattering in the background. Some beers can be a bit pricey so find out what the damage is before asking the barman to unbottle one, or try the local ales on draught for more of a bargain.

Drop in Tuesday for Quiz Night.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 35 (entrance from ul. Św. Krzyża 13), tel. (+48) 12 34 90 542, www.houseofbeerkrakow.com. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. ­W IRISH PUB POD PAPUGAMI A nice amalgamation of classic Irish pub and Cracovian cellar bar. Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish bric-a-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens streaming sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphy’s, Guinness and cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable atmosphere beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great place to meet people and find out just what exactly ‘the craic’ is, PP actually captures everything we like about being in an Irish bar.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 61 01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00.

U­X­W NEW KLUBOGALERIA SZAJBA With retro decor, kitsch bear lamps (lots of them), a green wall of plant life, and fun playlist of indie anthems, Szajba offers the kind of cult dive bar Plac Wolnica has been missing. The drinks list caters to all snobs with wine, cocktails and craft beer, and their signature shots are sold in fours, so if you aren’t here with your homecrew, you’ve got the perfect opening for making new friends. Szajba is all about socialising, and there’s also a huge basement for the occasional rave-up. If it reaches the heights of its hip sister venue in Wrocław, we’ll have one less reason to visit Lower Silesia.QK‑9, Pl. Wolnica 9, tel. (+48) 514 15 07 14. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. W iyp.me/polandblog

February – March 2018

59

Nightlife TYTANO

After lying derelict for decades, this former tobacco factory just west of the Old Town has transformed into an artsy, off-beat culture complex. Inhabiting 6 buildings and 15,000m2, Tytano’s size, potential and post-industrial allure has attracted dozens of original bars, restaurants and shops with their fingers on the pulse of current urban culture trends, making this ‘city within the city’ the current place to be in Kraków. Other venues of note at Tytano include Bonjour Cava (p.28), Enklawa (p.48), Veganic (p.55), Scena54 (p.62), Meat & Go (p.40), and Lost Souls Alley (p.125).

HALA GŁÓWNA An absolutely massive space with plenty of seating inside and out, Hala hums with warm bodies. The dim industrial interior has been embellished with a superlong bar, urban art and video projections, and acid jive on the stereo - put together it somehow achieves modern urbanite appeal while also basically being a student dive. To that end there’s pizza served late, craft beers on draught and weekend DJ parties from 22:00. If this is the fall back for when every other place at Tytano is packed full, it basically cements the complex’s rep as the best place to go out in Kraków.QG‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 12 307 19 19. Open 16:00 01:00, Thu 16:00 - 02:00, Fri 16:00 - 05:00, Sat 15:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. 6­U­E­W WEŹŻE KRAFTA Located at the heart of the hip Tytano complex, Weźże is Kraków’s largest multitap bar, offering 25 craft beers in rotation on draught and an additional 50 in bottles. With an industrial interior of unplastered bricks, columns supporting the ceiling beams, and leather seating, this is a flophouse for hopheads, which spills outside into the adjacent alleys. Even when crowded, however, Weźże feels like a cool oasis of civil camaraderie, far from the din of the city. One of the city’s trendiest drinking destinations, if you appreciate your ale, you should absolutely seek it out.QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/3, tel. (+48) 12 307 40 50, www.wezze-krafta.ontap.pl.

Open 16:00 - 04:00, Thu, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. 6­­W 60 Kraków In Your Pocket

LE SCANDALE Right on Plac Nowy (and outclassing most of the neighbourhood), Le Scandale unfolds over a series of sleek rooms draped with sultry ladies and sharp-dressed business sharks, before revealing an enormous garden (heated in winter) in the back, which includes a smoking section, second bar, and a grillmaster cooking up delicious steaks right in front of you. Home to a large selection of whiskey, rum, and some of the best cocktails in Kraków, Le Scandale also features a full fusion-inspired menu (served late), sexy service, and DJs on Saturday from 22:00.

This is modern Kraków at its finest - you may not want to leave.QK‑8, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 55, www. lescandale.pl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00.

6­U­X­W MERCY BROWN The word is out on this pseudo-speakeasy, and now that they’ve normalised their opening hours we’re lifting the veil on the best cocktail bar in Kraków. No joke, the gentlemen that tend bar here are artists and the joy they take in showcasing their talents is palpable; pull up a barstool and don’t miss the show. They make their own tinctures, the liquors are top shelf, and the tidy list of exclusive, artisanal drinks changes regularly; prices start at 24zł, but it’s absolutely worth it. The perfect place for a nightcap, enjoy the dim, decadent 1920s Parisian atmosphere and electro-swing soundtrack. Hidden above the Smakołyki restaurant with no outside signage, enter and indicate to the porter at the desk that you’d like to go upstairs; half the fun is the forbidden feeling of finding this place.QH‑5, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 512 09 10 12. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. ­W MLECZARNIA This cosy cafe/bar full of worn fabrics, rickety furniture and murky portraits is exactly the place you’d expect to find Bruno Schultz or Witkacy bunched up over a sketchbook or notepad. Full of sunlight in the afternoon, candlelight in the evening, and otherwise unbound by time, Mleczarnia is perfect for daydreaming, catching up on your reading, or sparking a romance. Recommended.QK‑8, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85 32, www.mleczarnia.wroclaw.pl/ krakow. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. ­W OMERTA This cult hangout overcomes a tired Mafia theme (replete with pics and quotes from The Godfather) with a huge beer selection, including 30 on draught. If you can get in the door, the decisions begin with foreign or domestic - the answer informing which of their two bars to hedge up to.

Ask for their impressive printed beer menu of almost 50+ ales broken down by category and even ranked for you.

Well-tempered locals create a sociable pub atmosphere, but finding a table can be a problem.QK‑8, ul. Warszauera 3 (entrance from ul. Kupa), tel. (+48) 501 50 82 27. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Mon, Sun 16:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 16:00 02:00. ­W iyp.me/krakow

Nightlife

The Best

Guinness

in Poland!!!

Awarded first place for quality in Poland’s Guinness Competition.

ul. Św. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl Open: Mon – Sun 12.00 – Till the last guest

PIEC’ART The legend of this esteemed jazz den dates back to 1999, and it has managed to remain at the forefront of Kraków’s respected jazz scene ever since, attracting some of the biggest names in the world jazz scene to its stage. Live concerts take place almost nightly (check their website for exact details) in the vaulted brick cellars, attracting an artsy crowd of jazz playing peers and purists. A recent expansion upstairs onto ul. Szewska has made Piec’Art more inviting than ever, with a classy coffee and whiskey bar, featuring the longest bar in town and silent films flickering on the wall.QI‑5, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 16 02, www. piecart.pl. Open 15:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00.

E­­W PIERWSZY LOKAL...

Known for its labourious, unmemorisable name, this cafe/ bar opens early to offer breakfast, serving sandwiches and their own hummus throughout the day. One of the only places in the centre where you can enjoy local Dragon’s Head beer (amber or porter), this long-standing favourite blends seamlessly into a bar in the evenings. With eclectic music and a relaxed atmosphere, Piewszy Lokal is a great place to meet friends, relaxing on the leather sofas or chatting around the candlelit tables. You can also smoke comfortably in the large back room (which doubles as a gallery) - a bit of a rarity these days.QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 6, tel. (+48) 12 431 24 41. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. 6­X­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

Irish Pub Certified quality Guinness, a wide range of whiskey, live Irish music and live sports on a big screen in a great atmosphere in one of Krakow’s oldest and biggest pubs.

• Two bars • Pool • Darts • SKY – TV (All matches shown)

NEW PIERWSZY STOPIEŃ This small side-street hangout offers 5zł wine and Prosecco on tap, plus open-face sandwiches and the full monty of boozy libations. Full of tipsy artists and dreamers, the narrow layout basically forces everybody into a blender, and the vibe is loose, fun and friendly.

Despite the space restraints, they frequently organise oddball events like ‘art openings for one painting’ and ‘concerts for one refrain,’ because art, like alcohol, will accept any pretext.QJ‑9, ul. Św. Katarzyny 2, tel. (+48) 577 76 76 70. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00.

6­­W SABABA Like Mercy Brown in the Old Town, Sababa is a covert cocktail club surprisingly stationed on Szeroka above Hamsa. Despite the 25zł signature drinks served up by sharp-dressed barmen, there’s a certain dive bar appeal to this hidden hangout, whose black walls and moody lighting, accented by elemental metals and geometric emblems, make for a very low-key lounge. With a huge selection of alcohol and their own infusions and tinctures, Sababa serves up delicious Near East-inspired authorial cocktails (putting on a bit of a show in the process), while weekend DJs set a chill vibe in which to socialise and imbibe.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 577 88 81 98, www.sababa.pl. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Thu 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue. E­­W February – March 2018

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Nightlife SCENA54 They say ‘30 is the new 20,’ ‘40 is the new 30,’ and 54 is the new club for consenting adults whose kids are old enough to take care of themselves or with the ex- for the weekend. With a shabby-chic interior in the industrial Tytano complex, expensive drinks, a diverse repertoire, and well-to-do dress code, Scena54 is a flirtatious blend of snooty social club, earnest culture house, and swinging nightclub. During the week it’s a laid-back cocktail lounge for the cuff-linked and coutured, while on weekends there’s often a performance (burlesque, jazz, stand-up) before the DJs hit the decks. Most of the clients are society types in their 30s and 40s, and if that’s your desired demographic, Scena54 makes going out feel more fun than it has in years.

QG‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 12 378 37 78.

Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. E­W

Luxury Shisha Club in town Maly Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Kraków tel. +48 690 095 485 manager@shishaclub.pl www.shishaclub.pl

STOLARSKA 5 pn - pt 16.00-5.00 sb - nd 13.00-5.00

BEST CRAFTED COCKTAILS

62 Kraków In Your Pocket

SHISHA CLUB BY BOLLYWOOD An Indian-owned den of oriental exotica, Shisha Club’s cup runneth over with draped fabrics, oriental rugs, stained glass lanterns, colourful cushions and intricate tiles. Navigate an underground labyrinth of dimly-lit rooms before settling down in the plush nook of your choice and selecting from five flavours of tobacco (39zł and up), plus drinks from the full bar. Ideal for a quiet make out session with your Queen Jasmine, or a sedated evening with friends.QJ‑5, Mały Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 536 25 96 42, www.shishaclub.pl. Open 16:00 - 01:00.

X­W SINGER One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer essentially invented the evocative aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and candlelight associated with the district today. Despite its long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion of tourists, today Singer still holds much of the magic it did when it first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day, Singer hits its stride around 03:00 when tabletops turn into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, celtic and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a Ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are obliterated. Yeah, we’ve had a few good ones here.

QK‑8, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. Open 09:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. X­W STARA ZAJEZDNIA (THE OLD DEPOT) This old tram depot has assumed a second life as Kraków’s biggest brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia’s size is both a blessing and a curse, as even the smaller out-buildings can feel pretty lonely without a large party inside, but if you happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flat-screens beam football and the beers they brew on-site do well to wash down the traditional Polish fare. Also don’t overlook the menu of single malt whiskies if you want to beat your friends in the race to iyp.me/krakow

Nightlife be first under the table.QK‑9, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.starazajezdniakrakow. pl. Open 14:00 - 23:00, Fri 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. U­­W THE PIANO ROUGE The red-light interior of this opulent underground venue on the market square embraces burlesque sensuality with boudoir curtains, feather boas, plush velvet loveseats, gilded pictureframes and an outstanding bartop lined with piano keys. The Parisian decadence is matched perfectly with attentive staff in sexy evening attire, great cocktails and European fare. The main draw, of course, are the live piano jazz, pop and soul performances that take place every day from 21:00 - 24:00.QJ‑5, Rynek Główny 46, tel. (+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com.pl. Open 09:30 - 02:00. E­­B­W TRAM BAR Though looking like a downtrodden dive bar in the midst of the drunken late night din, Tram Bar actually serves as a sophisticated escape from the shenanigans taking place just beyond its door. In stark contrast to the 4zł beers across the passageway, the focus here is on signature cocktails (24zł+ each), mixed drinks and one of the most wellstocked bars in the Old Town (over 180 different types of alcohol!). A veteran of Kraków’s bar scene, Tram Bar also looks and feels like a local classic, filled with antique tram benches, luggage racks and Golden Oldies descending from the stereo. More pub than lounge, here you can escape the sloppy student crowds, fashionistas and tryhard hipsters who make so many other places in the city unbearable.QC‑3, ul. Stolarska 5, tel. (+48) 730 33 15 32.

Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. 6­­W NEW Z UST DO UST (WORD OF MOUTH) In what seems to have become a local tradition of ‘secret’ cocktail bars, Z Ust do Ust takes the idea of the hidden entrance to new heights. Armed with the address, more than half the fun is finding it by poking around between clubs and trying all the wrong doors (we’ve said enough!).

Once you’re through the looking glass (too much!), you find yourself immediately greeted by the laidback bar staff, whose attentive, chummy service is one of this place’s strongest points. You’ll need their help because the manic teen magazine-style menu is almost indecipherable. The kitsch quotient here is high throughout with loud colours and drinks served in novelty glasses (shaped like bathtubs, pugs, fists), with popcorn alongside. Hardly high-brow and a bit of a pretender in the cocktail scene, this is still a fun destination for younger folks looking for an adventure with some money to burn.QK‑8, tel. (+48) 799 98 91 33, www.zustdoust.com.

Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. 6­X­W

Write your own reviews at krakow.inyourpocket.com iyp.me/polandblog

February – March 2018

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Nightlife VICE ADVICE

CLUBS

Boys will be boys they say, and the shocking growth of strip clubs inside the UNESCO-listed Old Town in recent years would seem to confirm that men do indeed become lads when abroad without their WAGs. Unfortunately, with the increase in naughty clubs have come increasingly frequent reports of scams and shady, sometimes dangerous dealings. You’ve likely heard stories of inflated tabs, thuggish bouncers, unauthorised charges and spiked drinks - unfortunately these are not rumours, but real threats you need to guard yourself against because the local authorities seem either unable or unwilling to stop them.

FRANTIC Dance alongside hourglass figures in what asserts itself as one of Kraków’s best clubs/meat markets. The design is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough exposed rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes, but the sound system lures some of the best DJs around to put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to jump inside the cat’s pyjamas, but beware of the roidraging bouncers at the door.QI‑5, ul. Szewska 5, tel. (+48) 12 423 04 83, www.frantic.pl. Open 22:30 - 04:00, Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri 22:50 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. X­W

With the speed that local strip clubs now earn bad reputations and reinvent themselves, we simply can’t police them ourselves, and we don’t feel comfortable recommending any particular club to our readers. Our advice is to not feed this industry, whose treatment of its own employees if rarely better than that of its guests.

If you do, however, decide to visit a strip club in Kraków, we advise you to mind your manners, deal only in cash if possible, don’t let anyone outside your group order drinks for you, and generally keep your wits about you.

By doing so you’ll be doing the important research we ourselves once did, but understand that you won’t be doing it on our recommendation.

HOT BEER? Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity.

Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the barrel-shaped stands selling cups of it on the market square during December’s Christmas fair. The popular regional brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you enjoy drinking it in public so much, you’ll be delighted to discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and easily prepare it at home as well.

Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie!

64 Kraków In Your Pocket

KLUB 30 If you’re tired of mingling with students and backpackers, or generally feeling like a geezer when you want to hit the town, we have a somewhat surprising recommendation - Klub 30, the largest club in Kraków. With four floors covering over 1000m2 of sleek walls, modern lighting, and plush colourful surfaces, Klub 30 looks the part of a cutting edge club, and despite a strict 25+ policy at the door, its popularity actually overcomes its size. The music is hardly groundbreaking, but you have three dancefloors to choose from - each with their own bar and distinct music - and a there’s smoking lounge at the top.

Instead of feeling like you have to prove you can keep up with the kids, here’s a club where you can enjoy behaving like one amongst your peers.QG‑7, ul. Kościuszki 3, tel. (+48) 725 70 02 15, www.klub30.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 21:00 - 04:00. X LOKAL A vast, cavernous and circuitous Cracovian cellar club right on the Rynek that features 3 bars, 2 dancefloors, a smoking room, plenty of snogging nooks and nightly parties that are always free, Lokal achieves an all-inclusive atmosphere that somehow maintains a shred of urban cool, despite the inebriated exuberance of the sexy students that make up the crowd. The design isn’t much aside from the medieval foundations and some well-deployed epilepsyinducing LEDS (also the fact that this bar is brought to you

by Ballantines is hard to miss), and the booming music is mostly contemporary chest-bouncing dance hits, but anyone looking for a full aviary of young local birds to chat up will be well-pleased.QJ‑5, Rynek Główny 6 (entrance from ul. Sienna), tel. (+48) 519 08 96 58. Open 12:00 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. X PROZAK 2.0 At once a honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to ‘pull’ from the pool of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on their tabs, and a haven for savants for whom clubbing is ‘about the music,’ Prozak has lived on the cutting edge of Krakow’s clubbing scene for over a decade with an impressive line-up of top DJs on weekends, and iyp.me/krakow

Nightlife probably the best sound system in town. The interior is an endless maze of underground rooms over two levels with an incredible four bars and three dance-floors on which to wild out. The crowd is just as fun, flirty and foreign-friendly as ever, with the party continuing until the natural selection of those with kittens and those with kebabs takes place in the blurry light of another dawn.

QJ‑6, Pl. Dominikański 6, tel. (+48) 733 70 46 50, www. prozakdwazero.pl. Open 22:30 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 2​ 2:30 08:00. Closed Mon. X­W SHINE CLUB KRAKÓW One of Kraków’s most exclusive and fashionable clubs, Shine hosts top DJs and modelling agencies at their weekend parties which range from elaborate circus shows to silly wet t-shirt contests. Located in a 1,000m2 former cinema, this enormous space features 3 bars, 3 dancefloors (one of which is VIP), a smoking area, and enough blinking LEDs lights to send the blind into epileptic fits. The music is mostly house and r’n’b, and the modern design is truly impressive, trumped only by the seductive patrons who you’d almost suspect must be getting paid to populate the background of your own private Polish fantasy. Expect a 1015zł cover at the door.QK‑6, ul. Starowiślna 16, tel. (+48) 725 70 02 25, www.shineclub.com.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. X­W

ul. St. Jan 10, Krakow +48 12 430 61 64 (call after 8 pm) +48 797 928 006 Open: 7pm - 4am, Mon - Sun www.paradiseclub.pl

THE BEST

STRIP CLUB IN CRACOW

SPOŁEM DELUXE This off-shoot of the classic, communist-themed Społem club (ul. Św. Tomasza 4) offers more space than ever for the surprisingly stylish Soviet-era wallpaper patterns, neons, and other colourful kitsch that earn it its namesake.

There’s a separate space for smoking and a mercifully selfcontained dance area where the DJ spins nostalgic pop hits inside a 1968 van, but without making conversation elsewhere impossible. Though there’s a dance party every night (except Mon & Wed, which host karaoke), craft beers and boardgames further let you know that this isn’t a typical nightclub, but one where you can come as you are (no cover!) and only hit the dancefloor if the mood strikes you. That’s our kind of place.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 53, tel. (+48) 12 341 57 51. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Wed, Thu 18:00 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. X­W TEATRO CUBANO Successfully simulating the sultry atmosphere of a Havana side-street as you shuffle through the crowded alleyway into the rhythmic club, this vivacious venue is a forceful breath of fresh air. Full of students and travellers from the hostel upstairs, Teatro Cubano is a perfect place to get your buzz on with cheap beer and mixed drinks served fast by efficient barmen, and you can order platters of sliders (mini-burgers) from Papitos next door.

With live music every day and DJs into the wee hours, check their FB page to see what today’s party is. Diversity is something Kraków could use more of, and this place embraces it.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 10, tel. (+48) 795 19 11 70. Open 15:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 15:00 - 04:00.

E­W iyp.me/polandblog

THE PLACE

WHERE DREAMS

COME TRUE

February – March 2018

65

St. Mary’s Basilica (p.73). | © stavrida

Kraków Sightseeing Kraków is much more than just cellar bars and sexy ladies (though that would suffice for most). So put that drink down, set an alarm, and go discover the magic of this city - district by district.

Sightseeing Kraków has always been, in many respects, a charmed city. With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement of Wawel Hill, Kraków has fortuitously avoided destruction since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the 13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not to come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on the enchanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, forced to erect their grey communist Utopia in the outlying suburb of Nowa Huta. As a result, Kraków is today one of the most beautiful showpieces of Central Europe - a claim validated by its historic centre’s inclusion on the first ever UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of majestic architectural monuments, cobbled thoroughfares, cultural treasures, timeless courtyards, priceless artworks and legendary beer cellars and gardens, Kraków’s historic centre is the pride of Poland.

WHAT TO SEE Kraków’s centre can be divided into two main sections - the Old Town (p.70) and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter, p.94), with Wawel (the former Royal Castle, p.90) towering between them. These three areas are requisite for anyone visiting the city and have been given their own separate treatment with accompanying cultural listings within this guide. Though one could spend their life wandering in and out of the cobbled streets, courtyards, cafes, clubs and museums of the Old Town and Kazimierz (we’ve attempted to make a life out of it), don’t hesitate to take a trip across the river into Podgórze (p.102) - arguably the city’s most evocative and mysterious district; the Jewish heritage trail also naturally leads you from Kazimierz into Podgórze, where the worst horror of Kraków’s Nazi occupation played out and Schindler made a name for himself.

Within these pages you’ll also find a section devoted to Nowa Huta (p.110), one of only two planned socialist realist cities ever built. Designed to be the antithesis of everything Kraków’s Old Town represents, both culturally and aesthetically, the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are only a tram ride away. Those staying in the area for a week or more should strongly consider day trips to Wieliczka (p.114), Auschwitz-Birkenau (p.118) and Tarnów (p.121), information about all of which you’ll find in our Further Afield section. However long your stay, the meticulously updated information in this guide will help you make the most of it. Enjoy exploring Kraków and Małopolska.

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KRAKÓW IYP ONLINE Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent content we have on Kraków and the surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just how much of the country we cover, and to download guides to Warsaw, Gdańsk, Wrocław, Katowice and other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small sampling of great Kraków-related content we didn’t have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!

KRAKÓW WITH THE KIDS Kids. They get tired, they get bored, cranky, whiny, naggy, damn-near impossible to please or control. We know.

Though we won’t argue that the main things Kraków has to offer your little ones are pigeon-chasing and ice cream, we’ve managed to compile a decent list of family-oriented alternatives anyway: iyp.me/krakowkids LITERARY KRAKÓW In October 2013 Kraków was designated a ‘UNESCO City of Literature.’ The city’s resume includes the first bookstore in Europe, and Nobel Prize winners for Literature - Czesław Miłosz and Wisława Szymborska.

Our guide to Literary Kraków introduces you to the city’s most famous authors and best literary locales: iyp.me/literarykrakow TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO 2017 is being celebrated in PL as the ‘Year of Kościuszko,’ in commemoration of the 200th anniversary of the patriot’s death. You’ve seen his name and likeness all around town, but who was this handsome, name-challenged gentleman?

Only the greatest Pole ever. Read our scholarly feature to learn all about this hero of America and Poland: iyp.me/kosciuszko POPE JOHN PAUL II Born in nearby Wadowice, Karol Wojtyła studied at Jagiellonian and served as Kraków’s Bishop before becoming Pope in 1978. Aside from the Vatican, no city is more associated with the late pope than Kraków, which remained his spiritual home throughout his life. IYP takes a look at the life, legacy and local sites associated with ‘Poland’s Pope:’ iyp.me/thepope February – March 2018

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Sightseeing KRAKÓW STREET ART

TOURIST INFORMATION CRACOW CITY TOURS Also at Pl. Matejki 2 (J-4, open 07:00 - 16:00).QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 44, tel. (+48) 12 421 13 27, www. cracowcitytours.com. Open 09:30 - 19:30. Y DISCOVERCRACOW.EU Also a large location nearby on the corner of the market square at ul. Św. Jana 2 (I-5), and at Pl. Szczepański 8 (I-5, open until 20:00).QI‑5, Rynek Główny 30, tel. (+48) 728 44 81 73, www.discovercracow.eu. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Y

ul. Piwna 3A (L-10)

Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality; anyone who makes the strongly recommended visit to Kraków’s Poster Gallery (p.130) will easily discover why. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street graphics as well. And they do. In Kraków, as in other cities around PL, street art is currently going through a tidal wave of popularity, and in the last few years new street murals have become a common sight around Kraków’s city centre. More restaurants and businesses are turning to street artists to playfully embellish their public spaces, and city authorities have even taken the surprising step of sponsoring some large scale murals around the city centre. In fact, the emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in Kraków’s urban landscape between both sanctioned and unsanctioned works of ‘graffiti art’ and the prolific gang signs, slurs and football-related graffiti that city paint crews have targeted in their war on ‘vandalism.’

At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Kraków, and we’re making it even easier. On our maps we’ve marked street art locations with a spray can symbol , so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Kraków’s urban art. Not only that, but we’ve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at iyp​.me/krakowstreetart so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and check out some of Kraków’s alternative artistic visions.

ul. Zwierzyniecka (H-6/7)

68 Kraków In Your Pocket

INFOKRAKÓW The official tourist info office run by the city of Kraków, with four other locations around the Old Town: ul. Św.

Jana 2 (I-5), ul. Szpitalna 25 (J-5), ul. Powiśle 11 (I-7) and Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2 (Wyspiański Pavilion, I-6).QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1/3 (Cloth Hall), tel. (+48) 12 354 27 16, www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

JORDAN TOURIST INFORMATION & ACCOMMODATION CENTRE Also at ul. Długa 9 (J-4), the bus station (L-4), ul. Gęsia 8 and ul. Gęsia 22A (Galaxy Hotel, M-8).QK‑4, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60 91, www.krakowhelp.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. SEEKRAKOW Also in the train station (K-4, open 07:00 - 21:00), at ul.

Grodzka 18 (I-6, open 09:00 - 20:30), and Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2 (I-6, open 09:00 - 20:30).QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 6, tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, www.seekrakow.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

TOURIST CARD The enterprising tourist should consider picking up the Kraków Tourist Card, a superb piece of plastic that allows you free entry to over 40 Kraków museums (that’s basically all of them, except Wawel), and free travel on trams and buses, day and night - including to and from the airport and Wieliczka Salt Mine.

An impressive savings, two and three day cards are available, priced at 100zł and 120zł, respectively.

Another option is the ‘Museum & Attractions Pass’ - essentially the same card without free transport, valid for three days, and priced at 70/60zł. Every venue listed in our guide which accepts the Kraków Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist Card Y symbol. Available at most tourist information offices, for a full list of vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com. iyp.me/krakow

Sightseeing GUIDED TOURS If an authoritative print guide, website and app (iOS, Android) just aren’t enough and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid) there are plenty of tour companies to choose from in Kraków and we list the best of them here.

If you’re wondering about the ever-popular antique horsedrawn carriages that line the market square, routes and prices are individually determined with the driver but the most popular route from the market square to Wawel Hill is generally 200zł (about 30mins), and you can expect to pay about 500zł if you carry on to Kazimierz. Just don’t expect them to disseminate any information about what you’re seeing along the way (see, you might need our help after all); that bright idea hasn’t occurred to anyone yet.

DISCOVERCRACOW.EU This helpful tourist office offers walking and electric car tours of Kraków, as well as airport transfers and excursions to Wieliczka and other area attractions. Also a currency exchange and sales point for the Kraków Tourist Card and museum tickets. Another, smaller location nearby at Rynek Główny 30 (I-5), and also at Pl. Szczepański 8 (I-5, open 06:00 - 20:00).QI‑5, ul. Św. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 728 44 81 74, www.discovercracow.eu. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Y­W FREE WALKATIVE! TOUR ‘Free’ only if you’re determined to be the guy that refuses to tip at the end, this outfit offers English-language walking tours of the Old Town every day at 10:00, 12:00 and 14:00 (plus 16:00 starting from March), leaving from the Barbican (J-4); and tours of Jewish Krakow at 10:30 and 13:30 (plus 17:00 starting from March), leaving from the Old Synagogue (K-8). Both tours last about 2.5 hours, and no booking is required - just show up and look for the ‘Free Walking Tours’ sign. Check their website to see all the other free tours they offer (including tours in Spanish, Italian and German).QJ‑4, tel. (+48) 513 87 58 14, www.walkative.eu.

Cracow City Guides YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER IN POLAND

Professional, licensed city guides of Cracow and Małopolska region are inviting you to private tours.

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Also available: Full day city tour of Kraków, Zakopane (winter capital of Poland), Pope John Paul II tour, Jewish Heritage tour, Czestochowa tour, Ojcow tour

Contact: guides@s-tours.pl Office working hours: Mo-Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00

www.s-tours.pl

S-TOURS This family-owned outfit organises personalised guided tours of Kraków and the surrounding region for individuals, rather than standardised group trips. Airport transfers and accommodation can also be arranged. For more info and prices, contact them by email: guides@s-tours.pl.Qtel. (+48) 530 17 07 80, www.s-tours.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. WOW KRAKOW! Use WOW KRAKOW’s iconic red bus at your leisure, getting a guided tour of the town as it zips between 10 stops, where you can get off and on again as you wish. The bus runs from about 09:30 - 19:45, appearing at each stop every 45mins (exact schedule online).QK‑4, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 601 50 21 29, www.wowkrakow.pl. Tickets 60/40zł for 24hrs, 90/70zł for 48hrs; 40/30zł if you just want the tour without getting on and off the bus; kids under 12 free. Free entry to the Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics Centre and Galicia Jewish Museum included in the price. iyp.me/polandblog

February – March 2018

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Old Town Walking Tour Full of majestic architectural monuments, priceless cultural treasures and cobbled pedestrian thoroughfares, Kraków’s Old Town is the pride of Poland, one of Central Europe’s most beautiful architectural showpieces, and one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. The most important Polish city to not come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego set, the rich cultural and historical value of Kraków’s Old Town earned it well-deserved inclusion on the first-ever UNESCO World Heritage List back in 1978.

Characterised by its unique upside-down teardrop shape - dictated by the city’s former medieval defensive walls extending from Wawel Castle to the south - today the Old Town is surrounded by the charming belt of public green space known as the ‘Planty.’ Standing in place of the city’s medieval moat, the Planty draws a clear line around the original medieval centre of Kraków, within which you’ll find many of the city’s most spectacular sights.

IYP’s Old Town tourist route leads you from the main entrance of the city in the north - the historic Floriańska Gate (J-4) - to Wawel Royal Castle in the south (I-7), via the market square and most important and interesting points in the Old Town. Known as the ‘Royal Route,’ this was essentially the historical coronation path of Poland’s kings from the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century when Kraków served as the royal capital...with a couple key detours, of course. The prescribed route (shown in red on the map) covers about 2km and could take as little as 30mins to cover if you’re only interested in the exercise; but we reckon for most an exploration of Kraków’s Old Town will take the several hours ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks. If you have only one day in Kraków, this is how you should spend it. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your camera, some comfy shoes and off you go.

1 BARBICAN Originally there were eight entrance gates into the city, but let’s begin just outside the most grand of those entrances, and unfortunately the only to have survived to modern times - the Floriańska Gate, fortified by the impressive Barbican fortress. Standing in the small square between the Barbican and the tower of Floriańska Gate you are actually standing on what once was the drawbridge (when lowered) over the city’s moat. Built at the end of the 15th century, the Barbican was the showpiece of the city’s medieval defences, as it remains today. With walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece of medieval military engineering proved impenetrable and is today one of the only surviving structures of its kind in Europe. Built in Gothic style, the Kraków Barbican is topped by seven turrets and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers and riflemen. Today the Barbican is used for various special events (medieval pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited as an outdoor museum from April until the end of October, where you’ll learn the history of Kraków’s defensive walls.

QJ‑4, ul. Basztowa, tel. (+48) 12 422 98 77, www.mhk. pl. Closed until April.

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Barbican

© Patryk Michalski, dollar photo club

2 JAN MATEJKO MONUMENT Located just beside the Barbican and unveiled as recently as 2013, this monument pays homage to one of Poland’s greatest painters, and one of Kraków’s most beloved sons.

Famous for his epic and outsized historical paintings, which have been reproduced enough to become imprinted within the national psyche, Matejko’s work can be seen throughout Kraków from Collegium Novum (p.77) to the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.80) in the Cloth Hall, to the monumental polychrome he did inside St. Mary’s Basilica (p.73) in his final years. Educated in Kraków and later principal of the Academy of Fine Arts, Matejko also trained an entire generation of great Polish painters, including Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Malczewski. This impressive monument, which depicts the artist seated within a large picture-frame, is the work of Jan Tutaj, and located along what was Matejko’s daily walk from his home to the Fine Arts Academy which now bears his name on nearby Plac Matejki (also named in his honour) just north of the Barbican. To learn more about Matejko, visit his home and museum at ul. Floriańska 41 (p.85).QJ‑4, ul. Basztowa.

Jan Matejko Monument

February – March 2018

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Old Town Walking Tour SŁOWACKI THEATRE

4 SŁOWACKI THEATRE Regarded today as an architectural masterpiece, the Słowacki Theatre came under fierce criticism when construction began, due to the demolition of the medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for it. Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski actually modeled his Baroque design on the Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished for its elaborate facade decorated with allegorical figures. The foyer and marble staircase are supreme examples of fin-de-siecle thinking, and the lavish stage curtain featuring paintings by Henryk Siemiradzki is worth seeing. Typically open during productions only, tours can be arranged by phone (130zł for up to 40 people, 150zł for over 40 people).

QJ‑5, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.slowacki.krakow.pl.

GRUNWALD MONUMENT The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint armies of Poland and Lithuania against the German-Prussian Teutonic Knights on July 15, 1410, was one of the largest battles of Medieval Europe, and is considered one of the most important military victories in Polish history.

This weighty monument was unveiled in front of an estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary of the event in 1910.

Unsurprisingly, Antoni Wiwulski’s original masterpiece was destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the copy you see today was made from his original sketches and models in 1976. At the top on his horse is Polish King Władysław Jagiełło, his sword pointing downwards in his right hand. At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army.

The dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic Order’s Grand Master, who lost his life during the battle.QJ‑4, Pl. Matejki.

72 Kraków In Your Pocket

3 FLORIAŃSKA GATE Across from the Barbican - to which it was once connected via drawbridge over the city moat - stands the iconic Floriańska Gate. Erected in 1307, this Gothic gateway tower and its adjacent towers (plus the Barbican) are almost all that remains of the city’s ancient defences which once circled the medieval Old Town. As the most important of the city’s eight medieval gates, St. Florian’s Gate was spared demolition during 19th century Austrian occupation thanks to last-minute local efforts. As in ancient times when the gate marked the entry point for royal processions into the city en route to Wawel Castle - today Floriańska Gate remains the primary entry point to Kraków’s Old Town, leading tourists from the direction of the train station, onto one of the city’s main commercial thoroughfares (ulica Floriańska), in the direction of the market square.

Standing 34.5 metres tall, including the Baroque ‘helmet’ added in the 17th century, Floriańska Gate features a stone eagle on the side facing the Barbican, and a 19th century bas-relief of Saint Florian on the side facing Floriańska Street. There is an altar in the actual passageway, and a hidden chapel in the tower itself. Street musicians commonly play beneath the tower, and ranks of paintings by local artists are sold in the open along ul. Pijarska on the ul. Floriańska side of the gate. Upon passing through the gate it’s worth taking a quick detour to your left along the original defensive wall/ul. Pijarska to get a look at the Baroque majesty of the 4 Słowacki Theatre (p.72), if you’ve yet to lay eyes on it.

As the city’s principal commercial street, ulica Floriańska comes steeped in history, with many of the townhouse facades featuring age-old murals and inscriptions among the signs for kebabs, dance clubs and currency exchange.

Keep your eyes peeled for the House of the Squirrel (no.

15), the House of the Negro (no. 1, on the corner of the market square), and the hotel and restaurant Pod Różą (no. 14), the Latin inscription above which reads ‘May this building stand until an ant drinks the ocean, and a tortoise circles the earth.’ Other places of note along ul.

Floriańska include the Jan Matejko House (no. 41, p.85), the Pharmacy Museum (no. 25, p.88), and the historical Jama Michalika Cafe (no.45, p.74) - famous for its role as the clubhouse for Kraków’s Art Nouveau movement.QJ‑4 iyp.me/krakow

Old Town Walking Tour 5 MAIN MARKET SQUARE Ulica Floriańska deposits you directly onto Kraków’s main market square (‘Rynek Główny’) in front of the iconic St. Mary’s Basilica: You are now standing in the very heart of the city with your finger on its pulse. Originally designed in 1257 - the year Kraków was awarded its charter – the grid-like layout of the Old Town and its central square have changed little in the centuries since. Measuring 200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded by elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names and histories.

Lined with cafes and restaurants, and filled with people, pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn carriages, this is the city’s social gravitational point, and a place of festivals, concerts, parades and other happenings.

In fact, the Rynek has always been the city’s natural assembly point for public celebrations, parades, protests and even executions; it was here that homage to the King was sworn until 1596, here that Tadeusz Kościuszko famously inspired the locals to revolt against foreign rule in 1794, and here also that ‘Der Führer’ himself raucously announced the name change to ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ during Nazi occupation. Fortunately the moniker didn’t last long and today the Rynek is again the biggest stage for Polish culture in the world, and absolutely packed with historical monuments and sights.QI‑5.

6 ST. MARY’S BASILICA First up is St. Mary’s Basilica - or Mariacka Cathedral - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country. After Tartar raids in the 13th century left the original church in ruins, St. Mary’s was rebuilt in Gothic style on its existing foundations and consecrated in 1320. In the early 15th century the towers took the iconic form they have today, when the northern tower was raised to 80m high and made into a watchtower for the city. It is from here that the hejnał mariacki - the city’s famous bugle call (p.73) - is played every hour on the hour; don’t miss it.

Inside the altar, stained glass windows, and blue, starfilled ceiling of St. Mary’s will take your breath away. The magnificent wooden altarpiece was the principal work of 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz) for twelve painstaking years, and depicts the Virgin Mary’s Quietus among the apostles; note, however, that gradual conservation work on the altar is currently underway

iyp.me/polandblog

THE HEJNAŁ

photo by Przemek Czaja; fb.com/MadeinKrakow

One of the most captivating Cracovian traditions is the hejnał (pronounced “hey-now”) – a short, melodious bugle call played every hour, on the hour, in the four cardinal directions from the left tower of St. Mary Basilica.

For centuries it has been the job of local firemen to climb the 239 steps to the top of the tower, ring the church bell and perform the hejnał precisely on the hour. A source of pride and family heritage for the few men chosen to do it, the job requires not only great discipline, but also bravery as local legend would have it. The first written mention of the song dates all the way back to 1392, and though its exact origins are unclear, it was apparently used as a warning of fires or invasions. As the story goes, in 1241, as Tartar invaders crept near the city gates for a nefarious nocturnal attack, a night watchman saw them coming and played the signal from atop the defensive walls to arouse the slumbering city to arms. As he did so, an arrow pierced him through the throat, abruptly suspending the song in mid-melody. To this day, the tune likewise cuts off in mid-report to symbolise the city’s vigilance, and commemorate the lone guardsman who woke the city and thereby saved it.

It’s a nice story, and since trumpet calls were used commonly across Europe during medieval times to open and close the city gates, its entirely conceivable that the legend is true. However, some have claimed that the story of the arrow-stricken trumpeter is a complete fiction made up in the 20th century. Polish journalist Leszek Mazan even went so far as to suggest that an American fabricated the whole ‘legend’ in 1929 (blasphemy!). Whatever its origin, any visitor or Cracovian will surely attest that the hejnał’s living tradition defines and shapes Kraków. In addition to pleasing visitors able to witness the bugle call live from the church tower every hour, the tune can also be heard all over Poland when it is broadcast live over the radio every day at noon.

February – March 2018

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Old Town Walking Tour ART CAFÉS

JAMA MICHALIKA Established in 1895, it was in this grand venue that Młoda Polska - Poland’s Art Nouveau movement - was founded, with many of the leading artists of the day taking their libations here, and then tacking their art on the walls. Much of it is still here, as well as fin-de-siecle furnishings, stained glass, an anachronous cloakroom and smoking section. There’s also a full menu of Polish food, in addition to coffee, beer and sweets. Although the abundance of tourist groups and the poker-faced nature of the staff limits the appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue is still essential.

QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 45, tel. (+48) 12 422 15 61, www. jamamichalika.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 6­U­E­X­W NOWOROLSKI This local classic inside the Cloth Hall has seen the city’s highs and lows since opening in 1910. Famous as Comrade Lenin’s preferred hangout during his visits, WWII occupation saw Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi nabobs, before being commandeered by the communist authorities during the PRL era. Things have changed little here, making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years, but live piano concerts and the exquisite art nouveau interiors by Józef Mehoffer make it well worth a look. You can find cheaper and better coffee, but it won’t be served against such an atmospheric backdrop.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 515 10 09 98, www.noworolski.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00. E­­S­W

(projected to last until 2020), and not all elements may be on display during your visit. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by Polish masters Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiański done in the late 19th century.

The church is available for worship without paying an entry fee via the main entrance. Tourists are asked to use a side entrance, however, and not visit during services; we list the tourist visiting hours below. Tickets (10/8/5zł; kids under 8 free) are purchased in a separate building across from the tourist entrance. Mariacki Tower is also open to tourists from March; additional ticket required (15/10zł; no admission for kids under 7; kids 7-12 must be accompanied by an adult).QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.mariacki.com. Open 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Tower closed in Feb; from March open Thu, Fri and Sat only 09:10 - 11:30, 13:10 - 17:30. Y

Mickiewicz monument and St. Adalbert’s Church. © mrallen - dollarphotoclub 7 ADAM MICKIEWICZ MONUMENT Between the market square’s two crowning glories - St. Mary’s and the Cloth Hall - lies this elaborate monument to Poland’s most eminent scribe, Adam Mickiewicz (17981855). One of the most important statues in Poland, the large likeness of the romantic poet and national hero was originally unveiled in 1898 to celebrate the centenary of the great man’s birth, and, like so many other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the occupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygier’s original, and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place. Ironically, Lithuanianborn Mickiewicz (whose most famous work, Pan Tadeusz begins with the words ‘Lithuania, my country!’) never visited Kraków until 35 years after his death, when his body was laid to rest in the Royal Crypts just down the road at Wawel.QI‑5, Rynek Główny.

8 ST. ADALBERT’S CHURCH Kraków’s oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan at the southeast corner of the market square - a mad mix of pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. The earliest parts of the building date to the 11th century, thus pre-dating the Rynek and explaining why the floor sits some two metres below it. The best way to experience the church is actually during the frequent concerts by the Royal Chamber Orchestra.QI‑6, Rynek Główny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52. Open 09:00 - 15:00 and 16:00 - 18:00; Sun 13:00 - 18:00. Y

74 Kraków In Your Pocket

iyp.me/krakow

Old Town Walking Tour 9 CLOTH HALL (SUKIENNICE) The iconic showpiece at the centre of the market square, Kraków’s Cloth Hall is essentially one of the world’s oldest shopping malls, and its origins and development can be traced as those of the city itself. Proof of a structure at this site dates back to the mid-13th century; when King Kazimierz the Great approved construction of a purposebuilt trading hall in the mid-14th century, Kraków’s importance as an east-west trading post vastly increased and the city thrived. After a fire in the mid-16th century, the Sukiennice was given a Renaissance facelift by Jan Maria Padovano, making it the most magnificent building in all of Kraków. Though the name ‘Sukiennice’ literally refers to textiles and fabrics, Kraków’s Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities bought and sold in its merchant stalls including wax, spices, leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from the nearby Wieliczka mines (p.114).

To this day it is still crammed with merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat, and a stroll through its central thoroughfare is essential.

In 1879, despite the country having been partitioned for nearly a century (or rather because of it), the first Polish National Museum was established here on the upper floor, making the Cloth Hall the focus of a huge upsurge of Polish patriotism. Following a complete modernisation of the building’s interiors, this historical and highly recommended gallery was reopened as the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.80) in 2010. At the same time the Cloth Hall’s sloped attics were converted into lovely terraces on the east side, where Cafe Szał now offers great views overlooking the market square and St. Mary’s Basilica, while on the ground floor the historical 1910 Noworolski Cafe (p.74) boasts wonderful Art Nouveau motifs by Jozef Mehoffer. The east side of the Cloth Hall is also the entry point for Rynek Underground (p.88) - one of Kraków’s most modern and popular museums, detailing the historical development of the area around the market square. Note, however, that tickets must be bought in an office on the west side of the Cloth Hall, and due to the museum’s popularity we suggest you get them a day in advance.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1/3, www.mnk.pl.

iyp.me/polandblog

© mrallen - dollarphotoclub

February – March 2018

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Old Town Walking Tour THE PLANTY

Once the site of the city’s 13th century defensive fortifications, the moats were filled, the walls razed and the towers demolished - with the notable exceptions of the grand Floriańska Gate and impenetrable Barbican during Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19th century. While today it’s easy to regret the short-sighted destruction of Kraków’s medieval city walls, we can thank the Austrians for replacing them with this lovely strollway of greenery encircling the centre of the Old Town. Known as the ‘lungs of the city’, the Planty is one of Kraków’s most unique and charming features - three kilometres of public parks and gardens filled with trees, flowers, benches and historic monuments. Walking its circuit would take over an hour, but represents a great way to see the city. A popular place for street musicians to perform, drunks to drink (note that drinking in public will win you a fine from the police) and teenage couples to make out, if you haven’t smooched someone on a park bench in the Planty before leaving town, well then you haven’t finished your itinerary.QC‑4/5.

10 TOWN HALL TOWER On the square’s other side is the 70 metre Town Hall Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining after many fires, renovations and short-sighted demolitions.

Known as Kraków’s ‘leaning tower,’ the structure actually leans some 55cm, a curiosity credited to a particularly forceful wind back in 1703. For those who pay to enter, the Town Hall Tower offers little aside from some medieval costumes, black and white photos, information about the clock at its top, decent views, and lots of stairs. With the balconies off limits, you can take some so-so snaps by leaning out the open windows at the top, but they aren’t the calendar quality panoramas you might be anticipating.

Beside the base of the Town Hall Tower you’ll find one of Kraków’s most well-known landmarks and popular meeting places - a giant, toppled bust known affectionately as ‘The Head.’ Inevitably serving as a backdrop for almost every tourist who visits Kraków (your turn!), the bronze body part’s official title is 11 ‘Eros Bendato’ (Eros Bound) and is the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944 - 2014).QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 43 34, www.mhk. pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed 1st Tue of each month.

Last entrance 30mins before closing. Closed in January.

Admission 9/7zł, family ticket 18zł. Y

76 Kraków In Your Pocket

12 PIOTR SKRZYNECKI MONUMENT Before departing the market square, take note of one more monument opposite Eros - that of Piotr Skrzenecki. Always sharply dressed in hat and suit with fresh flowers in hand, the bronze Skrzynecki is a loyal patron of local dive bar Vis a Vis; so loyal that he exhibits total disregard for opening and closing times. A favourite spot of the real flesh-and-blood Piotr Skrzynecki, his bronze likeness is only a few doors down from Piwnica Pod Baranami (Rynek Główny 27), the legendary literary and political cabaret he founded in 1956. Until his death in 1997, Skrzynecki was an essential component of the Cracovian - and Polish - art scene, directing films, screenwriting, acting as Piwnica Pod Baranami’s conférencier, critiquing art, organising unusual cultural events, throwing far-out birthday bashes and being an all-around eccentric.

His legacy lives on.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 29.

13 COLLEGIUM MAIUS

Exit the market square via ul. Św. Anny before veering onto ul. Jagiellońska to find Collegium Maius, the oldest building of Jagiellonian University, which is in turn the second oldest university in Central Europe. Built as the university’s main campus in the late 14th century, a century later it was redesigned as the late-Gothic structure surrounding the picturesque arcaded courtyard that has survived to this day.

While professors lived and worked upstairs, it was in the ground floor lecture halls that Nicolaus Copernicus made doodles in the margins of his notebooks in the 1490s. Today a museum, over hour-long guided tours of the interiors and exhibits are given in English Mon-Fri at 13:00 (16/12zł), while more basic 30+ minute tours in English depart frequently (depends on interest; 12/6zł); it is suggested, however, that you call or visit in advance to reserve yourself a place on a tour. Inside you’ll visit the lecture hall, common rooms, professors’ quarters, library and treasury, seeing some fabulous interiors, paintings, furniture, medieval scientific instruments, rectors’ maces and other university memorabilia along the way, as well as the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas. There is also a separate temporary exhibit entitled Science: Antiquated & Not-soantiquated (rough translation; exhibit open Mon-Fri 09:00 - 14:00; Sat 09:00 - 13:00; closed Sun. Admission 7/5zł).

Another highlight of visiting is the courtyard clock, from which wooden historical figures appear and parade past to music from the mid-16th century every two hours between 09:00 and 17:00. The building’s courtyard also houses a gift shop and cafe.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00; Sat 10:00 - 14:00; closed Sunday. Last entry 40mins before closing. Admission 12/6zł (30min+ tour), 16/12zł (1hr+ tour); admission free for self-guided tours Sat 10:00 14:00, last entrance at 13:30. N iyp.me/krakow

Old Town Walking Tour 14 COLLEGIUM NOVUM Found nearby, the main building of Jagiellonian University, Collegium Novum (Latin: New College) was built in 18731887 to a neo-gothic design by Feliks Księżarski to match the style of Collegium Maius. Subsidised with money from Vienna when Kraków was a ‘property’ of Austrian Galicia, the building was opened for the university’s 500th anniversary after years of controversy and debate. In addition to the gorgeous façade, the building contains a beautiful assembly hall (Aula) where a painting of Austria’s Franz Jozeph I hung until a group of students famously shredded it in a symbolic act calling for the restoration of an independent Polish Republic in 1918. Several important paintings remain, however, including portraits of university founders Kazimierz the Great and Władysław Jagiełło, and Jan Matejko’s Copernicus: Conversation with God. Today the university’s administrative centre, Collegium Novum is not necessarily open to tourists, but you might be able to have a poke around if you can pass yourself off as a student. A monument to Copernicus also stands nearby.

QI‑6, ul. Gołębia 24.

© Anna Michalska - dollarphotoclub

15 BISHOP’S PALACE & PAPAL WINDOW A pleasing stroll through the Planty will soon bring you to the Bishop’s Palace - the second largest palace in Kraków (after Wawel) and residence of Kraków’s bishops since it was first built in the 14th century. Today the Palace is most famous for having been the residence of Cardinal Karol Wojtyla from 1958 to 1978, before he became Pope John Paul II. During his visits to Kraków as Pope he would often make evening appearances in the ‘papal window’ to address the crowds of his followers below - a tradition which Pope Francis continued during his visit for World Youth Day in July 2016. An image of John Paul II usually fills the window (making it easy to identify), and during anniversaries you can be sure the area will be festooned with flowers and candles. The building itself is off-limits, but the courtyard is open to tourists where you’ll find the city’s first monument of JPII, erected in 1980.

QI‑6, ul. Franciszkańska 3.

Courtyard open from 09:00 until dusk.

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PLAC SZCZEPAŃSKI

Despite its prime location lined with beautiful Art Nouveau townhouses, it wasn’t long ago that this historical square was an eye-offending car park flanked with taxis and flowerless concrete flowerbeds.

Reintroduced to the public in 2010 after two years of work and 13 million PLN spent, Plac Szczepański has been reclaimed as a space for public leisure with benches, plants, and a large multi-media fountain with many jet streams, some of which spring straight out of the ground in front of the main pool. Despite critical grumblings from the city’s conservative architectural and historical community, residents love the fountain, with kids and dogs happily splashing through its waters in the summer.

The fountain, which is illuminated by coloured lights in the evening, has quickly become the most popular place to cool off in the city centre during the warmer part of the year, though you’ll find it inoperative in winter.

Taking a spade to Plac Szczepański was no easy task, and to no-one’s surprise numerous archaeological discoveries repeatedly delayed the work. Centuries before any pavement was ever laid down, this was the site of the Church of Saint Szczepan (hence the name) and an adjoining cemetery. When the order was disbanded in the early 19th century, the church was levelled and the inconveniently placed gravestones were likewise ripped out. The arrival of Napoleon’s army in the early 19th century breathed a brief flicker of life in Plac Szczepański when it became a parade ground. Plans for a monument glorifying the diminutive general’s achievements went out the window when the Frenchman’s campaign hit the skids on the plains of Russia and Plac Szczepański soon reverted to functioning as a vegetable market, before becoming a parking lot in the 1960s. Today the square is used for public art, concerts, festivals and other events, while the buildings around it showcase some of the city’s finest Art Nouveau architecture. Don’t miss the reliefs on the façades of the historic 1843 Teatr Stary at number 1, the 1909 Secession building of the Agricultural Society at number 8 or the 1901 Palace of the Arts at number 4 (p.80). Draped in art not only on the exterior, the Szołayski House at number 11 houses a branch of the Kraków National Museum.QI‑5.

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Old Town Walking Tour the right) are shown Christ-like at the moment of their deaths, while Kazimierz the Great’s bare skull bears the royal crown between them. The building also serves as a tourist information point (open 09:00 - 17:00).QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2.

16 ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA Across the street you’ll find St. Francis’ Basilica, which may not look like much from the outside, but a trip inside reveals Kraków’s most colourful church, and our personal favourite, thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau interiors by native son Stanisław Wyspiański, which nicely balance the organic and geometric with unique floral patterns. Wyspiański also made the eight stained-glass windows here around 1895, including the controversial, iconic and absolutely must-see centrepiece, ‘God the Father in the Act of Creation’ (p.89).

Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis’ Basilica was the first brick building in the city and is well worth popping in, even for those who could care less for looking at another church.QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sun 13:00 - 15:00. No visiting during mass please.

17 WYSPIAŃSKI PAVILLION

Following his work on St. Francis Basilica, Wyspiański was commissioned to design a triptych of windows for Wawel Cathedral. At the time, however, the artist’s haunting portrayals of St. Stanisław, Kazimierz the Great and Henryk Pobożny were deemed too grotesque and controversial to instal, and the project was shelved until director Andrzej Wajda resurrected the idea of producing them 100 years later. Using Wyspiański’s designs, the work was carried out by Piotr Ostrowski of the Stained Glass Museum and a building designed by Krzystof Ingarden specifically for displaying them was erected near St. Francis Basilica in 2007. Curious for its facade of rotating brick panels and the fact that it is not suited for displaying stained glass at all (facepalm), the tiny building is too narrow to view the windows from inside, and natural light is not even able to pass through it. As a result, the out-facing windows are lit from inside and best viewed at night. Martyred Polish heroes St. Stanisław (on the left) and Henryk Pobożny (on 78 Kraków In Your Pocket

18 CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL Walking down busy ul. Grodzka you are now officially back on the ‘Royal Route.’ One of Kraków’s most striking churches is the Church of Saints Peter & Paul - a Jesuit Church built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples standing on the gates outside are the church’s most visually arresting feature, but the interior has been extensively renovated and the airy, austere grandeur of this late Renaissance building is now evident. The crypt serves as the new national pantheon for Poles distinguished in the arts, science and culture (Sławomir Mrożek was the first interred here in 2013). Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist Leon Foucault in 1851 which proves the earth’s rotation, shows demonstrating its use generally occur on Thursdays at 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00, but call or check their website to be sure.QJ‑7, ul. Grodzka 52A, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65, www.apostolowie.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Sun 13:30 - 17:00.

19 ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH Standing alongside the Church of Saints Peter & Paul, St. Andrew’s offers the finest example of Romanesque architecture in Kraków. Built between 1079 and 1098, it has been a place of worship for 900 years and was used as a refuge and fortress during Tartar invasions. Most of the relics were looted anyway, making a trip inside a bit of a letdown. Remodelled by Baldassare Fontana during the mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century, note the pulpit which resembles a boat - typical of the Baroque style.QJ‑7, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. Open 09:00 17:00. No visiting during mass please.

Plac Marii Magdaleny with Church of Sts. Peter & Paul (left) and St. Andrew’s (right).

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Old Town Walking Tour 20 PLAC ŚW. MARII MAGDALENY The most picturesque route to Wawel is by cutting through Plac Św. Marii Magdaleny - a favourite haunt among local skateboarding youths, who pay no heed to the stern sculpture of Jesuit priest Piotr Skarga watching over the area. Its name comes from the long-gone St. Mary Magdalene Church, which stood in this spot from roughly the 13th century until 1809 or 1811 (with a few breaks for burning down and getting rebuilt), when it was demolished after falling into a state of hopeless disrepair. A house was built on the freed plot of land, only to succumb to a fire in 1945, whereafter the gap in ul. Grodzka was simply turned into a public square. Sick, bro.QI‑7, Plac Św.

Marii Magdaleny.

ul. Kanonicza

photo by Przemek Czaja, fb.com/MadeinKrakow

21 UL. KANONICZA Kraków’s most picturesque street, and an essential part of any tourist itinerary. The cobbled alley is lined with superb examples of Renaissance and Baroque architecture, and many of the facades feature colourful murals and passageways leading to quiet courtyards. At number 9 is the former residence of 18th century patriot Hugo Kołłątaj, number 17 is the grand 14th century Bishop Ciołek Palace (now a museum of religious art, p.81), number 19 next door was once the residence of the future Pope John Paul II (today it houses the Archidiocesan Museum, p.81), and at the very end, number 25, lies the former royal bathhouse nowadays better known as Dom Długosza.

One popular tale surrounding the bathhouse claims that the future Queen Jadwiga, concerned about rumours that Lithuanians had gigantic genitals, sent one of her servants to spy on the manhood of Lithuanian Grand Duke Jagiełło - her husband-to-be. Her fears appear to have been allayed and the couple later got married.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza.

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Old Town Museums ART GALLERIES

MUSEUMS The museums listed here are in the Old Town, while those in Kazimierz (p.94), Podgórze (p.102) and Nowa Huta (p.110) are listed in their respective sections of the guide.

Palace of the Arts

If you’re looking for the best spaces for contemporary art in Poland’s cultural capital, start with the galleries below; also worth noting is Podgórze’s Starmach Gallery (p.108) and MOCAK (p.106), and the Zdzisław Beksiński Gallery in Nowa Huta (p.112).

BUNKIER SZTUKI One of the few very modern buildings in the Old Town, the concrete carbuncle known as the ‘Art Bunker’ is hands-down Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery.

Changing exhibitions are held over three floors, exhibition catalogues are sold in the small mezzanine bookshop and the ground floor features a fantastic cafe/bar/restaurant with one of the city’s biggest beer terraces.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 52, www.bunkier.art.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł; Tue free.

INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE (MCK) Temporary art exhibitions spotlighting foreign visionaries, cities or cultures typically fill this major gallery on the market square. See our What’s On section for info about the current exhibit (p.21).QI‑5, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, www.mck. krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, closed Mon. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission to the gallery 12/7zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue, Wed between 10:00 and 11:00 admission 1zł.

PALACE OF THE ARTS (PAŁAC SZTUKI) Built in 1901 as the seat of the Friends of the Fine Arts Society, this gorgeous edifice was Kraków’s first Art Nouveau building. Gold bas-reliefs by Jacek Malczewski the famed ‘Father of Polish Symbolism’ - depict the highs and lows of the creative process, busts of Poland’s most famous contributors to the arts fill niches in the facade, and the large head of Apollo crowns the main entrance. Today the Palace of the Arts remains one of the most prestigious exhibition spaces in town, with regularly changing exhibits of contemporary art.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, www.palac-sztuki.krakow.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł. N 80 Kraków In Your Pocket

19TH CENTURY POLISH ART GALLERY This magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting.

Comprising four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small, giving proper attention to each piece, some of which are enormous and all of which are gorgeously framed. Almost everything by Jan Matejko here is rightly considered a national treasure, and the collection also includes works

by Jacek Malczewski, Józef Chełmoński and Stanisław Witkiewicz, as well as Władysław Podkowiński’s famous ‘Frenzy’ from 1894. Like a small slice of the Louvre in Kraków, but without the crowds, one of the perks of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the market square. Recommended.QI‑5, Cloth Hall, Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 14/8zł, family ticket 26zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y

ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM Housed in an old monastery, the biggest highlight of the Archaeology Museum may be its beautiful garden (2zł charge if you aren’t visiting the museum) - a great place to relax with fantastic views of Wawel in the distance. As for exhibits, they are a bit dated, but the museum does boast the Zbruch Idol - the only sculpture of a Slavic god in existence, part of an exhibit on the prehistory of Małopolska. Other permanent exhibits include prehistoric pottery, Peruvian artefacts, and ancient Egypt - the latter best enjoyed with the aid of an audio guide (5zł). Additionally, you’ll find an exhibit on the history of the monastery and museum itself (separate ticket required, 4/3zł).QI‑6, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 75 60, www.ma.krakow.pl. Open 09:00 15:00; Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/7zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. N iyp.me/krakow

Old Town Museums ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM OF CARDINAL KAROL WOJTYŁA John Paul II lived here, twice. Once as Karol Wojtyła, the young priest with a penchant for skiing (his skis are on show), and later as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms.

The Archdiocesan doubles as a small but well-presented showcase of beautiful sacral art, some dating back to the 13th century. Among the items on display you will find presents to His Holiness from heads-of-state. All very nice, but the exhibition will only hold the attention of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors can expect to be tailed by overzealous curators. Guided tours available for individuals and groups up to 25 people in French, English and Polish. A second branch of this museum - the Wojtyła Apartment at ul. Tyniecka 10 (G-8) - shows the apartment where the future pope lived with his father in the late 1930s (open Wed, Sat, Sun only 10:00 - 14:00; free admission).QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421 89 63, www. muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Guided tours 60zł. Y­N BISHOP ERAZM CIOŁEK PALACE This early 14th century palace is one of the most outstanding buildings in Kraków; in fact, at the time it was built, the palace was second in splendour to only Wawel itself. Thoroughly restored, today it is one of the most modern and impressive branches of the Kraków National Museum, housing three permanent exhibitions: Kraków Within Your Reach, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th Centuries, and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic. The first is a basement repository of local architectural sculpture fragments, while the latter two consist almost entirely of sacral art from before the idea of ‘art’ was applied to non-religious subject matter (how many centuries did that take?). Most of it came directly out of Kraków’s own churches or others in the region, and is admittedly superb, if that’s your thing. If not, you’ll likely still find yourself impressed by the surroundings and high-quality displays.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 20, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. U

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Old Town Museums MAŁY RYNEK

Rynek Główny’s stunted sibling, ‘Mały Rynek’ (or the ‘Small Square’) can be found just behind a wall of church properties, including St. Mary’s Basilica and St. Barbara’s, from the main square. Actually the same age as its celebrated sibling, this more minor market also dates back to the year 1257, when Kraków was awarded its charter. The original function of Mały Rynek was to house butchers’ stalls, presumably to keep bloody entrails and swarms of flies away from the eyes, noses, and fine clothes of the rich folk inhabiting the townhouses of the Main Square. From the 16th century onward sellers of antiques also made a home for themselves on the square, when it was known as ‘Forum Antiquum’ (the Old Market), though the locals liked to call it ‘Tandeta’ (the ‘tacky market’) or - in a rhyming pun related to the grisly meats on display even ‘Wendeta’ (Vendetta).

Serving as an intermediate point between the nobility of the Main Square and the impoverished denizens living near the city walls, Mały Rynek also housed a soup kitchen for the poor and the 13th-century School of the Virgin Mary, which predated the founding of the square and thus introduced some whacky feng shui, blocking off much of the access to ul. Sienna and taking up a good chunk of market space. This layout proved to be a major inconvenience for 18th-/early 19th-century city authorities seeking to open a road for horse-drawn vehicles between the Main Square and the New Gate (no longer in existence), which spelled the demise of the historic building in 1812 when it was demolished, the butchers were ordered to close up shop, and the square was converted into a produce market.

The communist times were even less kind, with the space used as a car park and taxi stand up until 2007, when it was declared a pedestrian zone and refurbished with cobblestones, benches and a small fountain to celebrate the 750th anniversary of Kraków obtaining city rights. Returning to its role as a marketplace, today Mały Rynek plays host to numerous small fairs and festivals which are worth a look, or can serve as a nice escape from the hubbub of the Main Square.QJ‑6, Mały Rynek.

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CZARTORYSKI MUSEUM - ARSENAL This small branch of the National Museum is a satellite of the Czartoryski Museum - whose primary branch across the street remains closed. Originally built in the mid15th century, this space once stored the city’s armoury, munitions, cannons and gunpowder. In the 1800s it was rebuilt and expanded into its current neo-Gothic state to hold the vast library and collections of the Czartoryski Princes, until the collection was moved across the street to ul. Św. Marka 17 (J-5) in the 1960s. Since then Kraków’s former Arsenal has been used to showcase various segments of the famous Czartoryski collection, including a long stint as the Gallery of Ancient Art. Now home to temporary, but rather long-running exhibits, the Arsenal currently harbours ‘Treasures of the Czartoryski Collection’ - which displays the collection’s most valuable artistic and historical artefacts.QJ‑4, ul. Pijarska 8, tel. (+48) 12 370 54 60, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 17/11zł, family ticket 29zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free. Y

Europeum

© Karol Kowalik

EUROPEUM CENTRE FOR EUROPEAN CULTURE Located in a 17th century granary on formerly-forgotten Sikorski Square, this branch of the National Museum was opened in 2013 and houses the city’s large collection of European painting and sculpture, in addition to hosting lectures, concerts and other events. Displaying Lorenzo Lotto’s 1507 The Adoration of the Infant Jesus - the consensus ‘most-valuable foreign work’ in the possession of Kraków’s National Museum, other highlights include John the Baptist Preaching by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, The Crucifixion by Paolo Veneziano, and more early Renaissance Italian paintings. While we’re happy to see this collection find a permanent home, those who have seen their share of European art museums can probably justify skipping it.QH‑5, Pl. Sikorskiego 6, tel. (+48) 12 433 57 60, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł; family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y iyp.me/krakow

Old Town Museums

Hippolit House

Photo courtesy of History Museum

HIPOLIT HOUSE The Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this fine building around the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th centuries, though the building dates back considerably further than that. The inside has been transformed into a series of recreations of typical Polish bourgeois living spaces from the 17th to early 20th century, and is interesting for the insights it gives into how the other half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly remarkable furniture and antiques. Worth a visit.QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00; Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon,Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/7zł, family ticket 18zł. Wed free. Y HISTORY MUSEUM Established in 1899, Kraków’s History Museum - also known as Krzysztofory Palace - has undergone an extensive transformation, including the gradual restoration of the 17th century Baroque building that houses it, and the complete digitisation of the museum collection. While parts of the building remain under renovation, the first part of new permanent exhibit is open: Cyberteka. Kraków - Time & Space chronicles the spatial and urban development of the city from its earliest beginnings until about 1915, via spiffy multimedia displays and 3D films (note this exhibit is free on Tues). This market square building is also home to a large museum shop with lots of souvenirs, posters, books and other information available.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 35, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30.

Closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, family ticket 24zł. Y

History Museum

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© Andrzej Janikowski

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Old Town Museums KOŚCIUSZKO MOUND

KOŚCIUSZKO MOUND (KOPIEC KOŚCIUSZKI) History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (17461817). Having fought with distinction in the American War of Independence before inspiring a valiant Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedomfighter was described by Thomas Jefferson as ‘the purest son of liberty that I have ever known.’ Upon his passing, such was the people’s love that they proposed to honour him with a monument in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak (p.108) and Wanda (p.113) - and to make it the grandest in Kraków. Construction of an artificial burial mound atop Bronisława Hill in Zwierzyniec began with a mass, followed by speeches; artefacts from Kościuszko’s illustrious life were placed, including soil from his many battlefields, before friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all ages brought soil from their villages to add to the mound. Though a committee was formed for its oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially completed in November 1823, Kościuszko Mound stands 34m high, 326m above sea level, and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains can be seen from the top.

In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they used as a strategic lookout point. The Germans later threatened to level the entire site during WWII as they set about destroying all Polish national symbols (along with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were destroyed, the complex has been restored and significant engineering improvements have been made to ensure its longevity. Climbing to the peak is tiring work, but the panoramic views are a worthwhile reward.

The surrounding fortifications also house two cafes, a radio station, chapel, restaurant, wax museum and several additional historical exhibitions. Admission to all exhibits is included with admission to the Mound.

To get there take trams 1 or 6 to ‘Salwator,’ from which it’s a lovely 1.6km walk up ul. Św Bronisława. The walk is all uphill though, so if you’re awaiting a hip replacement you might want to take bus 100 from there to the top instead. Or a cab from the Old Town is about 30zł.QA‑7, Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 16, www.kopieckosciuszki.pl.

Mound open 09:00 until dusk, exhibits open 09:30 15:00. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 14/10zł, family ticket 30-40zł. Y

HOME ARMY MUSEUM This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick railway building has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass atrium) to house the Home Army Museum - documenting the size, organisation and efforts of Poland’s underground military resistance from the time of the failed September campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces official disbanding in 1945. The Home Army’s continuing fight for freedom within the country’s two occupied zones (Nazi and Soviet) is one of World War II’s less acknowledged aspects, and though this enormous museum goes to great length to demonstrate that Poland’s government, military and civilian population never surrendered, the sprawling exhibits are confusing and chaotically organised; as a result you may want to dish out the 100zł, plus ticket price, for a guided tour (make sure to book at least one day in advance - English, German, Italian, French, and Russian available). Nevertheless it’s a must for those interested in WWII history, and you should reserve at least two hours for visiting.QK‑2, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70, www.muzeum-ak.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 13/7zł. Sun free for permanent exhibit. Y­U HUTTEN-CZAPSKI MUSEUM Located in a 19th century neo-Renaissance palace in the very centre of Kraków, this branch of the Kraków National Museum houses a comprehensive collection of Polish ‘numismatics’ - that is, antique Polish coins, banknotes and medals. The collection of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski, who once owned the place, also includes old books, manuscripts, maps and other national memorabilia from the medieval period to today. The displays are gorgeous and additional info (in Polish and English) about each artefact is conveyed via touchscreen computers. Guarded by a fantastic gargoyle out front, the palace and gardens have been stunningly restored, and April 2016 saw the opening of the Józef Czapski Pavilion - separate modern exhibition hall behind the main palace, and home to a biographical exhibit about Józef Czapski (artist, author, patriot and grandson of Emeryk), plus temporary exhibits.

The Hutten-Czapski gargoyle

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Old Town Museums Your ticket is good for both, but despite the world-class displays, this one should probably be reserved for die hard Polish patriots with a fascination for coin collecting.

Is that you?QH‑6, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions.

Y JAN MATEJKO HOUSE Jan Matejko was Poland’s greatest historical painter whose work and life is honoured in the house where he was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s.

As well as some witty imaginings of Kraków medieval life, studies for gargoyles, and collections of Renaissance furniture and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejko’s life is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this relatively small museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Polish master, and a man of many parts, fans of Matejko should definitely visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.80) where many of his greatest works are displayed.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 41, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 60, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free for permanent exhibitions.

Y JÓZEF CZAPSKI PAVILION Opened in April 2016, this modern building behind the Hutten-Czapski Palace is dedicated to Józef Czapski - an exiled Polish painter, writer, art critic, intellectual, and grandson of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski (whose famous coin collection is on display 100m away). The small permanent exhibit is a biographical look at his life via video interviews, archival materials and the personal effects he left to the city upon his passing in 1993. Though Czapski may be completely unknown, and his artistic-literary legacy difficult to ascertain, it is his role as a witness to history that makes this museum most worthwhile. Fantastic archival footage (subtitled in English) explains the evolving geopolitical climate in Europe during Czapski’s lifetime, and shape his story into one that represents not one man, but an entire generation of Poles - the educated class that was obliterated in the fields of Katyń and fires of the Warsaw Uprising, or somehow survived only to be exiled or imprisoned by the communist regime that followed WWII. Czapski’s story also reveals the almost disgusting cyclical nature of history and politics, and the destructive folly of nationalism - a lesson as necessary today as ever.

Though small, it is easy to spend hours here exploring the multimedia exhibits, or sitting in the cafe. Tickets are also valid for the Hutten-Czapski Museum next door.QH‑6, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, www. mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Y iyp.me/polandblog

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Old Town Museums LADY WITH A WEASEL Kraków’s prized art piece is Lady With an Ermine - one of only three oil paintings by Leonardo da Vinci in the world, and a sentimental favourite of Poles, reproduced and hung in many a home.

Leonardo’s Lady has a chequered history; when she isn’t entertaining she always seems to be on the run or in hiding somewhere. For centuries she was off the map completely, before having a rendezvous with Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Italian holiday in 1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought her home to his native Poland, where she was part of the family until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876 moving into what would become her official address in Kraków’s Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans rescued her and returned her to Kraków where she is today one of the city’s most beloved treasures.

Following an extended residence at Wawel, Leonardo’s Lady has again changed addresses to the main branch of the National Museum (G-6, p.87) for the foreseeable future. Hosting company in her own private room, alongside in-depth information about her chequered past, a special 20/10zł ticket is required (but it also gets you into the National Museum’s permanent exhibits).

KRAKÓW NATIONAL MUSEUM Visitors should note that all branches of the National Museum are free on Sundays, and students under 26 (with proper ID) pay only 1zł all other days. Also, ambitious tourists can buy one ticket that is valid for all branches for six months for only 35/28zł; that’s a heck of a deal and includes the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery, Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace, Czartoryski Museum, Europeum, Gallery of Ancient Art, Hutten-Czapski Palace, Józef Czapski Pavilion, Jan Matejko House, Józef Mehoffer House, and the National Museum - Main Branch. To learn about some of the current temporary exhibits in these museum branches, visit our What’s On section (p.16). Also note that all branches will be closed March 30th and 31st.

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Józef Mehoffer House

JÓZEF MEHOFFER HOUSE Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 20th century’s artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating with Wyspiański on the interiors of numerous Kraków churches, as well as his own installations across Galicia. This, his house, was where the artists of the Młoda Polska (Young Poland) movement often met and is a delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings, Art Deco to impressionistera art and many sketches, designs and finished stained glass pieces that attest to his important artistic legacy.

In warmer months you won’t find a more magical place to relax and read a book than the hidden garden behind the house, presided over by Meho Cafe - one of the city’s best-kept secrets.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 80, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y MICET (INTERACTIVE THEATRE MUSEUM) This new name-challenged museum in the basements of the Stary Teatr (Old Theatre) presents the theatre’s achievements through a digital archive, pays homage to theatre as a Polish cultural institution, and allows visitors to experience some of the technical aspects of theatrical production. Certainly the most hi-tech museum in Kraków, the whole experience is conducted through interactive apps, touch-screen displays, tablets and other digital exhibits. Your interest in the museum will depend entirely on your willingness to participate in its tech-savvy displays, and your visit necessarily begins with a guide showing you around and explaining how to interact with the exhibits.

Using apps at various stations you can compose your own music for a production, change the lighting, sound and music on a stage, or explore a ‘virtual dressing room’ that acquaints you with iconic stage costumes. Perhaps the most challenging is a private room where you’re iyp.me/krakow

Old Town Museums encouraged to record a video of yourself taking on a role, which you can then email to yourself. Impressively designed and entirely in English, quite a lot of money was spent on this, from the tablets and Beats headphones to the loads of programming, and a technician is actually on-hand to keep it working smoothly. White, minimal and devoid of objects, it’s all quite soulless considering the subject, and certainly not to all tastes (we saw several couples walk in, get the tour, and then walk right out). But we know of nothing comparable, and for aspiring actors, technicians, set and costume designers and general lovers of theatre, we can’t really imagine anything better.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 75 12, www.micet.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł. U

MICET

© Jacek Kochański

NATIONAL MUSEUM, MAIN BUILDING Far from being the shoeless peasants many cynical historians would have us believe, previous generations of Poles have in fact excelled in the arts, and Kraków’s National Museum showcases many superb examples of their work. In addition to hosting consistently worldclass temporary exhibits (for which separate tickets are required, admission varies), the museum also houses fine permanent collections of Polish applied arts and weaponry; unfortunately, the fantastic 20th-century Polish Art exhibition has been closeted to make way for a major exhibit on Stanisław Wyspiański (whose epic monument stands outside the entrance); the largest-ever display of this massively influential artist’s work, the exhibit of over 500 pieces includes drawings, paintings, pastels, and even personal effects (admission 20/10zł, family ticket 25zł). One of the museum’s biggest treasures is Leonardo da Vinci’s famous oil painting Lady With an Ermine (p.86); beloved by locals, the painting is displayed in its own separate room (a special 20/10zł ticket is required, but it also gets you into the permanent exhibits). One of the city’s largest museums, you’d be wise to focus on what you’re most interested in; to see it all would take the entire day. The museum also houses a small shop and cafe.QG‑6, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission for permanent exhibits 10/8zł, family ticket 17zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free.

Admission for all permanent and temporary exhibits (including Wyspianski and Lady with an Ermine) 40/20zł, family ticket 55zł. Y­U iyp.me/polandblog

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Old Town Museums

Pharmacy Museum

PHARMACY MUSEUM Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building, Kraków’s brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out over five floors and includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale reproductions of ancient apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really good display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of note is an exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who operated a pharmacy in the Kraków Ghetto during WWII. Overall, this surprising museum is a lot more interesting than it sounds.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.muzeumfarmacji.pl. Open 09:30 - 15:00, Tue 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon, Sun. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6zł. N

MANGGHA

Located across the river from Wawel in Dębniki, The Manggha Museum of Japanese Art & Technology (to use its full name) has many hats - including performance hall, Japanese cultural centre, sushi bar and home to local legend Feliks Jasieński’s fabulous 6,500-piece collection of Japanese artefacts. The exceedingly modern building was funded by legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda upon winning the Kyoto city prize in 1987, and 2015 saw the opening of the adjacent European - Far East Gallery, which has doubled the space for temporary exhibits, several of which are on at any given time (check their website for specifics).QH‑8, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, www.manggha.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 35zł, kids 7-16 1zł (does not apply to groups), kids under 7 free, group ticket 100zł (5-30 people), Tue free. Guided tours 100zł.

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RYNEK UNDERGROUND This hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visitors four metres under the surface of the market square to explore the recently excavated medieval merchant stalls that predate today’s Cloth Hall, and to experience the city’s entire history - from its first settlers right up today over the course of some 6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits. Because of the museum’s popularity, and the fact that it is limited to only 300 people at a time, timed tickets should be bought in advance to avoid long queues or the disappointment of no ticket availability. This can be done either online or from the information office confusingly located on the opposite side of the Cloth Hall from the museum entrance. The actual museum entrance is located on the side opposite St. Mary’s Basilica, of course, and once you’ve negotiated the scrum of getting inside your experience begins with a short film projected on a wall of smoke, before following the trail of truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what is essentially an archaeological site.

Relying heavily on touch-screens and holograms, highlights include a fascinating look into life before Kraków received its charter and the market square was laid out, displays on trade and transport in the city, a fantastic area for kids that includes a performance by automated puppets, and the remains of an 11th-century cemetery replete with ‘vampire prevention burials’ (seriously). Visitors should also reserve time to view the excellent series of short, subtitled documentaries covering different ages of Krakow’s history at the end of the tour route. In addition to the multilingual displays, audio guides are available in English, German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 20:00; Tue 10:00 - 16:00; closed 2nd Mon of each month.

Last entrance 75mins before closing. Admission 19/16zł, family ticket 38 zł, Tue free. Audioguide 5zł. Y STAINED GLASS MUSEUM Located in the premises of S.G. Żeleński’s historic stained glass studio, this ‘living museum’ offers the truly unique opportunity of visiting an active stained glass workshop, where you’ll witness masters at work, learn the artistic process involved in producing large-scale glass installations, and see some superb designs and examples of finished works from throughout the over hundred-year history of the studio. Known as the ‘cradle of Polish stained glass art,’ Żeleński opened this studio in 1902 as a place for the best artists of the Młoda Polska/Art Nouveau era to meet and work, including such luminaries as Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Stefan Matejko (nephew of Jan). Many of PL’s most outstanding examples of stained glass were created here, and today the studio remains the largest of its kind in the country. Visiting is only possible with a guide and the approximately 45-min tour is offered hourly in Polish (at :30 past the hour) and English (on the hour); stained glass workshops (make your own souvenir!) can also be arranged (in Polish, English, German, or Italian). The museum now also includes a cafe and gift shop where you can pick up beautiful stained glass pieces created on-site in the workshop. Absolutely worth a visit for fans of the medium, iyp.me/krakow

Old Town Museums as well as Art Nouveau enthusiasts.QG‑6, Al. Krasińskiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, www.stainedglass.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Guided tours 36/29zł per person in English; 29/23zł in Polish.

ULICA POMORSKA & FORMER GESTAPO CELLS Consisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska offers the most chilling museum experience in Kraków (which is saying something). Located in the Dom Śląski, or ‘Silesian House,’ this infamous building became the Kraków headquarters of the Gestapo during WWII, who converted its cellars into detention cells for the interrogation and torture of political prisoners. These cells have been preserved and are free and open to the public as the ‘Former Gestapo Cells’ immediately to your right as you enter the courtyard. Though the attendant will encourage you to enter straight away, we recommend you begin with the building’s main exhibit ‘People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956,’ entered via a staircase in the corner of the courtyard. This ambitious and excellent exhibit takes visitors chronologically through the city’s not-so-distant past, illustrating the terror and tyranny of both the Nazi and Stalinist regimes in Kraków through an abundance of documents, photographs, audio recordings and other archival materials. From the first victims executed by the Nazis to the communist show trials of the mid-50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed in vivid and sometimes distressing detail.

While the broad, more traditional museum presentation of this history is affecting enough, the immediacy of the Gestapo cells is truly haunting. An unimaginable 600 inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners awaiting their fate remain intact and provide a shocking, sobering and undeniable account of the suffering of hundreds of Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you might expect, there are no fairy-tale endings here, so prepare yourself for the blunt force trauma of human tragedy. A worthwhile and memorable experience, reserve at least 90 minutes for visiting. Ulica Pomorska is a 20min walk from the market square, near the tram stop ‘Plac Inwalidów.’QG‑3, ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00; Thu 12:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00; Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 mins before closing. Admission 7/5zł, family ticket 14zł, Tue free. Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free. Y

iyp.me/polandblog

STAINED GLASS

© Lestath

Thanks to a proliferation of magnificent churches, the largest stained glass studio in Poland, and resident artistic geniuses Stanisław Wyspiański and Józef Mehoffer, Kraków’s public buildings boast some of the finest examples of stained glass in all of Europe.

Though there are many beautiful pieces of medieval window art throughout the city – particularly in Wawel Cathedral (p.92) and St. Mary’s Basilica (p.73) – stained glass reached its pinnacle as an artform here at the turn-of-the-century when S.G. Żeleński founded a studio specifically for stained glass, and persuaded the best Art Nouveau artists to work in the medium, including Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Stefan Matejko (nephew of Jan). Today the studio is still active, and open to the public as the Stained Glass Museum (p.88).

Other highlights already in the pages of this guide include St. Francis Basilica (pictured, p.78), and the Józef Mehoffer House (p.86). For a complete list visit iyp.me/krakowstainedglass.

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Wawel

View of Wawel Hill and the Wisła River | MarcinMrowka, Dollar Photo Club

The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town (I/J-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, selfrule and not least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture dating from around the 14th century onwards, Wawel is the crown jewel of Kraków’s architectural treasures and required visiting for Poles and foreigners alike.

Even for those who know or care little about the country’s past, Poland’s ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that can’t fail to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of which the former contains most, but by no means all of the exhibitions, Wawel’s must-see highlights include the Cathedral’s mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse of Poland’s very own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury and, weather permitting, a leisurely stroll around its courtyards and gardens. After the April 2010 Smoleńsk disaster, Wawel’s Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which is hard work but comes with its own rewards, can take an entire day. Take note, however, that due to the site’s popularity, you’d be wise to reserve tickets for the exhibits you want to see at least one day in advance.

90 Kraków In Your Pocket

WAWEL CASTLE Wawel’s prominence as a centre of political power predates the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle before Poland’s first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences.

The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Władysław the Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of them added their own architectural details to the building.

The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish several buildings including a number of churches on the site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on a number of occasions, with the huge ongoing renovation works that continue to this day being halted for a number of reasons, most famously when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Today’s Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque.

The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained within do much to contribute to Kraków’s rightful status as a truly world-class city.QI‑7, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 22 422 51 55 (ext.219), www.wawel.krakow.pl. iyp.me/krakow

Wawel STATE ROOMS The main exhibition of Wawel Castle’s interiors, the spectacular State Rooms include several rooms on the ground floor - all of which have retained their magnificent Renaissance-era timber ceilings - and the guest apartments on the second floor. These are the rooms where the royals once entertained, held court, conducted sessions of the Senate, and hosted guests.

Full of luscious oil paintings, intricate 16th-century tapestries, and some truly extraordinary wallpaper, highlights include the Senator’s Hall - the largest room in the castle, which hosted the first royal wedding back in 1518, and the Envoys’ Room - complete with 30 wooden heads on the coffered ceiling (originally there were 194!) and an original throne that really brings the majesty of Poland’s past to life. Absolutely worth visiting, give yourself at least 40mins to take in all the extravagance.QI‑7, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl.

Open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission16/9zł.

Sun free.

ROYAL PRIVATE APARTMENTS The Royal Private Apartments are basically a continuation of the State Rooms tour of the castle’s interiors, and equally stunning, however these rooms can only be accessed on a specially conducted guided tour (available in English or Polish only). Consisting of the royal bedchambers and guest rooms, these rooms on the first floor reveal how the royals lived and arranged their private lives. Packed with delightful Gothic and Renaissance details, your 40-60min guided tour will include the wonderful Guest Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch wood ceiling, and the charmingly-named, but mysterious ‘Hen’s Foot’ - two small rooms inside the 14th-century Belvedere Tower, which offer great views of Kraków’s Old Town, but whose original function is unknown.QI‑7, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30 - 16:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.

Admission 21/16zł.

CROWN TREASURY & ARMOURY Containing Poland’s very own equivalent of the Crown Jewels among its many wonders, Wawel’s Crown Treasury & Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the world of the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent. To the left, the Crown Treasury features several glass cases of golden and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins and other marvels, of which Szczerbiec - the country’s original coronation sword - is the ultimate highlight. To the right the Armoury contains a wealth of weaponry including some exceedingly swanky crossbows and a frightening array of spiky pikes, while the cellar holds a collection of cannons and replicas of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald. Be aware that due to conservation works, the number of tickets for sale is limited.QI‑7, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30 - 16:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.

Admission 16/9zł. iyp.me/polandblog

State Rooms, The Senator’s Hall

© Zamek Królewski na Wawelu

INFO & TICKETS WAWEL VISITOR CENTRE Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets for the exhibition you want to see at least one day before you visit. Tickets should be collected at the Wawel Visitor Centre Reservation Office at least 30mins before the reserved tour time. All exhibits are self-guided except for the Royal Apartments, however foreign language guides can be arranged at extra cost if done in advance. In addition to ticket sales and pickup, the Visitor Centre is also the place to get more info about various seasonal and theme tours on offer, pick up free maps or make use of the small post office, gift shop, cafe/restaurant and toilets.QI‑8, Wawel 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow. pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. CATHEDRAL TICKET OFFICE The Cathedral and the Castle have different ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased only in the ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral entrance. While entrance to the actual cathedral itself is free you will need a ticket to enter the adjoining Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower. A single ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral Museum.

Audioguides are recommended to make the most of the experience, and can be rented here for 7/5zł (in Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech, French and Hungarian).QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.katedra-wawelska. pl. Open 09:00 - 15:30, Sun 12:30 - 15:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7zł. Note that the Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your ticket is valid to visit another day.

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Wawel LOST WAWEL Essentially an archaeological and architectural reserve, the smartly conceived and executed exhibits here focus on the restored remains of the Rotunda of the Blessed Virgin Mary - Kraków’s first church, and the most wellpreserved pre-Romanesque church in PL, as well as the former royal kitchens and coach house. Visitors will also see several lapidariums of early stonework, a collection of colourful Renaissance tiles, scale models, and virtual reconstructions of what Wawel Hill looked like over one thousand years ago.QI‑7, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 8/5zł, Sun free (tickets still required on free admission days - check ticket office for availability).

ORIENTAL ART This exhibit in the western wing of the castle comprises art from the Near East which was highly prized and fashionable amongst the Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via military and trade contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea. Visitors will see unique collections of Chinese ceramic and Japanese porcelain, but the part of the exhibit that makes it essential are the trophies, banners, weapons and other artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski III’s famous victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683, including Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Para’s sabre.QI‑7, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Entry at 11:00 and 14:00 only.

In Feb closed Sun, Mon. In March closed Sun 25th, all Mondays. Admission 7/4zł.

The Renaissance courtyard at Wawel © efektstudio80 - dollarphotoclub

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Wawel Cathedral

WAWEL CATHEDRAL The scene of the crowning of almost every Polish king and queen throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral is the third to be built on the site. The first cathedral was built of wood, probably around 1020, but certainly after the founding of the Bishopric of Kraków in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathedral that subsequently burnt down again. The current building was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of Poland’s first king to be crowned at Wawel, Władysław the Short (aka. Władysław the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor in 1319. Considered the most important single building in Poland, Wawel’s extraordinary Cathedral contains much that is original, although many glorious additions have been made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that of its cousin St. Mary’s on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for its visual shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop of Kraków, St. Stanisław (1030-1079), a suitably grand monument dedicated to the controversial cleric after whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about as ostentatious as you’re ever likely to see, of particular interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right as you enter and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss’ 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. If you’re willing to spend the 12/7zł, the Royal Crypts in the basement offer a cold and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place of kings and statesmen, while at the top of a gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast, 12.6 tonne Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly be heard 30km away.QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.

Admission free. iyp.me/krakow

Wawel ROYAL CRYPTS While all Poland’s pre-16th kings were buried beneath or within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of nine more Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their children thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom itself), the honour was extended to statesmen with Prince Józef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kościuszko (1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Słowacki (1923), Józef Piłsudski (1935) and General Władysław Sikorski (1993) all securing themselves a place here. Most recently - in April of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy in Smoleńsk; admission to their tomb (and that of Piłsudski) is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century St. Leonard’s Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL; the exit deposits you back outside.QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/7zł.

SIGISMUND BELL Follow the crowds up many gruelling flights of stairs to reach the infamous Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol of Polish nationalism ala Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell. The largest of five bells hanging in the same tower, Sigismund’s Bell weighs in at an astounding 12.6 total tonnes (9650 kgs just for the bell itself), measures 241cm in height, 242cm in diametre and varies from 7 to 21cm thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanisław and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national holidays, as well as significant moments in history (like the funeral of late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife) the bell’s peal can be heard 30km (186 miles) away and is quite an enterprise to ring, requiring twelve bell-tollers who are actually lifted from the ground by the bell’s force. The entrance is within the Cathedral and tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at the ticket office across from the Cathedral entrance.QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www. katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00.

Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/7zł.

CATHEDRAL MUSEUM Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtyła just before he became Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum features a wealth of religious and secular items dating from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups and downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable possessions is the sword deliberately snapped into three pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) - the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all manner of coronation robes and royal insignias to boot. A large monument of Pope JPII stands outside the entrance.QI‑7, Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. Last entrance 30mins before closing. iyp.me/polandblog

THE WAWEL DRAGON

Standing on the Wisła riverbank in the shade of Wawel Castle (I-7) is a rather ugly likeness of the Wawel Dragon (Smok Wawelski), who - according to local legend - once reposed in the large cave behind him when not out and about in town scarfing up virgins and sheep. Finally vanquished when he was tricked into eating a bag of sulphur, this monument in his honour was unveiled in 1972 to a design by the local artist Bronisław Chromy. Extremely popular with the kids you’ll find climbing all over it, it was once possible to send Smok an SMS which would send him into fits of fire-breathing bliss, however he now does it without checking his phone first, so just be patient and don’t look down his throat.

Outside the entrance of Wawel Cathedral (I-7), you may also notice an odd collection of massive bones chained up on the left outside the entrance. While legend obviously purports these to be the bones of Wawel’s fearsome dragon, more conventional wisdom has claimed they might be parts belonging to a blue whale, woolly mammoth, rhinoceros, or all three. At any rate, they haven’t been removed and inspected for centuries due to their magical properties, which are credited with protecting the city from destruction during centuries of Polish partition and particularly during WWII when almost every other major city in Poland got pancaked.

QI‑8.

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Kazimierz

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Old Synag.

Przemyska

13

Galicia Jewish Museum

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94 Kraków In Your Pocket Prz 100 200 m

Bernatek Footbridge

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Piłsudski Bridge

Podgórska

1,5 km

Halicka

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Grunw aldzki Bridge

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Kazimierz Walking Tour Kazimierz – the district south of the Old Town between ul. Dietla to the north and the Wisła River to the south was the centre of Jewish life in Kraków for over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed during World War II. In the communist era Kazimierz became one of Kraków’s dodgiest districts while gradually falling into disrepair. Rediscovered in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the regime and worldwide exposure through the lens of Steven Spielberg, Kazimierz began its rebound and is today arguably Kraków’s most exciting district – a bustling, bohemian neighbourhood packed with historical sites, atmospheric cafes, art shops and galleries. Well-known for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, traces of Kazimierz’s Jewish history have not only survived, but literally abound in the form of the district’s numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries. In fact, no other place in Europe conveys a sense of pre-war Jewish culture better than Kazimierz. As a result, the district has become a major tourist draw and pilgrimage site for Jews, and contemporary Jewish culture has gradually returned to prove that there’s more to Kazimierz than just sepia photographs and old synagogues.

In addition to Jewish culture, however, here you’ll find the heart of Kraków’s artistic, bohemian character behind the wooden shutters of dozens of antique shops and art galleries. Peeling façades and obscure courtyards hide dozens of bars and cafes, many affecting an air of pre-war timelessness. Centred around the former Jewish square now known as Plac Nowy, Kazimierz has emerged as the city’s best destination for café culture, street food and nightlife. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities, Kazimierz is an essential point of interest to any visitor.

WALKING TOUR IYP’s Kazimierz walking tour weaves you through the district between its major points of interest, beginning at ‘Stradom’ - exactly one tram stop south of Wawel, and ending at Plac Wolnica, from which point you’re well-positioned to carry on into Podgórze across the river (p.102). The trail is exactly 1.5km and can be done in as little as 30 minutes if you refuse to take more than a passing interest in anything; for those that have the time to spend we reckon it will comfortably occupy a few hours.

0 UL. DIETLA

Today a major traffic artery through the city, until 1878 ul.

Dietla was a swampy tributary of the Wisła before thenmayor Józef Dietl (hence the name) had it filled and turned into a green beltway. Though war damages, the addition of vehicular lanes and eventually a tramline in 1970 have lessened its appeal as a park, ul. Dietla remains a landmark street lined with imposing tenement buildings, many of them built by wealthy Jewish merchants.

As you cross, look back to where you got off the tram which is directly below the Ohrenstein house (ul. Dietla 42) - this five-storey tenement building was built between 1911 and 1913 and was the city’s largest pre-war tenement building; a spire at its peak was taken down by the Nazis.QJ‑8.

UL. MEISELSA Following the prescribed trail brings you to ul. Meiselsa, or ‘ulica Rabina Beera Meiselsa’ to give it its full due, so named after Dow Ber Meisels - Chief Rabbi of Kraków from 1832 to 1856, and then Chief Rabbi of Warsaw until his death in 1870. Deeply involved in local politics, Meisels was a Polish patriot and nationalist who fought to abolish discriminatory laws against Jews, was vocal about PolishJewish cooperation and supported Polish independence.

In Kraków with Catholic support he served on the Senate and even represented the city in sessions of the Austrian Parliament in Vienna. In Warsaw his outspoken support for the Polish cause leading up to the January 1863 Uprising led to persecution from the Russian government and multiple periods of forced exile; his funeral in 1870 became a large Polish-Jewish demonstration against Russian rule.

At the symbolically loaded corner of ul. Meiselsa and ul.

Bożego Ciała (Corpus Christi Street), Judaism and Christianity inexplicably intersect. A 19th century Jewish bathhouse is today Hevre (p.58) - a hip bar and kosher restaurant, while catty-corner is a mural of Gene Kelly singing in the rain, before you reach a picturesque passageway on the right made famous in scenes from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List (ul.

Meiselsa 17). Next door is Mleczarnia - the neighbourhood’s best beer garden (sadly closed for the season) - before reaching the Judaica Foundation and Plac Nowy.QJ/K‑8.

An incredibly self-contained and densely pack little neighbourhood, you could obviously start at any point on the map, but for our purposes we begin the route as a logical extension of our Old Town Walking Tour (p.70) and an exploration of Wawel (p.90, not that you could do all that in one day). A less than ten-minute walk from Wawel Castle, or a trip on trams 6, 8, 10, 13, 18 or 73, will deposit you at the threshold of Kazimierz at the stop ‘Stradom;’ though the north and southbound stops are a full block apart, if you’ve come from the north by simply disembarking the tram and crossing over ul. Dietla you have officially entered Kazimierz. iyp.me/polandblog

February – March 2018

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Kazimierz Walking Tour 2 PLAC NOWY While Kraków’s main square, Rynek Główny, makes all the postcards and photographs, Plac Nowy has established itself as the spiritual centre of Cracovian subculture.

Lacking the splendour of the Old Town, Plac Nowy is actually something of an eyesore – a concrete square lined with cars and filled with food hatches, metal market stalls and rat-like pigeons. If you want something completely different from the Old Town, however, here it is.

Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th century, Plac Nowy (New Square) didn’t really begin assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its central landmark, the Okrąglak (rotunda), added as late as 1900. For generations this square was referred to by locals as Plac Żydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it the primary marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the rotunda served as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation. Today butcher shops still occupy the interior, but the real activity is outside where hungry locals of every ilk line-up in front of hole-in-the-wall food hatches to enjoy the best ‘zapiekanki’ (p.26) in Poland. Essentially a French bread pizza with the toppings of your choice, visiting Kraków without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness.

Merchant stalls surround the rotunda, and you’ll find something happening here daily from 07:00 until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets and random rubbish are constant guarantees, but weekly highlights include junk/ antique sale Saturdays, Sunday’s clothing market, and Friday morning’s bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair.

A photo essay waiting to happen, arrive between 05:30 and 09:00 to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle, ‘How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?’

1 JUDAICA FOUNDATION Located inside a former Jewish prayer house which was in operation from the 1880s up until WWII, this building was saved from ruin, renovated, and opened as a Jewish cultural centre in 1993. Today it subsists on a steady diet of lectures, concerts, art exhibits, film screenings and other events that reflect Jewish life in Poland’s past and present. In the cellar you’ll find an antique store and bookshop full of Judaica, while the ground floor hosts the cafe/bar, whose small rooftop garden (open April to October) is one of Kazimierz’s best-kept secrets.QK‑8, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl circuit. Full of shambolic charm, veteran boozers Singer (p.62) and Alchemia (p.57) put Plac Nowy on the nightlife map, and remain the square’s best bets for candlelit, pre-war mystique. In recent years the bars on offer have begun to diversify, but the fact of the matter remains that this bohemian outpost is one of Kraków’s most interesting and exciting nightlife destinations.QK‑8.

Plac Nowy

3 TEMPLE SYNAGOGUE Exit Plac Nowy stage left via ul. Estery and you’ll run straight into the JCC and adjoining Temple Synagogue. Kazimierz’s newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with several later expansions, the most recent of which was in 1924. Under Nazi occupation the building was used as a warehouse and stables, yet survived the war and regular services were even held here until 1968, before stopping completely a decade later. Since restoration, the gilded woodwork within now plays host to many concerts and occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the annual Jewish Festival of Culture each summer.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11, krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open ​10:00 - 16:00; Closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł.

96 Kraków In Your Pocket

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Kazimierz Walking Tour

Temple Synagogue 4 JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE Opened in 2008 by the Prince of Wales, the JCC is the headquarters of Kraków’s surviving and strengthening Jewish community and organises numerous events, lectures, exhibits, tours and community programmes with the aim of rebuilding Jewish life in Kraków. A friendly first point of contact for anyone wanting to know more about Kraków’s Jewish community, walk-ins are welcome; or check their website or FB page to see what’s going on.QK‑8, ul.

Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 75, www.jcckrakow.org.

Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

5 KUPA SYNAGOGUE Continuing down ul. Miodowa you’ll quickly find another synagogue on your right side. The rather unfortunatelynamed Kupa synagogue was founded in 1643, using funds from the local kahal/qahal (mi-kupat ha-kahal) - the autonomous Jewish government - which we’re told explains where the name comes from, but doesn’t change the fact that ‘kupa’ means ‘poop’ in Polish (oh well).

Designed in the Baroque style with a square prayer room, the synagogue shared a wall with the original Kazimierz city defensive walls, which can still be seen today. During the war it was looted and many architectural elements were destroyed, including the bimah. Restored in 2002, the richly decorated interior features ceiling paintings of Biblical scenes and holy places done by an unknown artist in the 1920s, as well as zodiac symbols on the balcony. An informational pamphlet in English is available for visitors, and there is also a small photography exhibit in the upstairs women’s gallery.QK‑8, ul. Warszauera 8 (entrance from ul. Miodowa 27), tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, krakow.jewish. org.pl. Open ​09:30 - 16:00; Closed Sat. Admission 5/3zł.

Detail from the ceiling of the Kupa Synagogue

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NEW JEWISH CEMETERY

This enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was the burial ground for many of Kraków’s distinguished Jews in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Its story takes on a darker aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population between 1939 and 1945.

Many of the tombstones are actually no more than memorials to entire families that were killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters. The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the walls of the New Cemetery, but there are many newlylit candles burning over the headstones. An undeniably evocative place for a reflective walk, please cover your head upon entry.QL‑7, ul. Miodowa 55. Open 0​ 9:00 - 16:00; Closed Sat. February – March 2018

97

Kazimierz Walking Tour to create a ‘wailing wall’ along ulica Szeroka. Today the cemetery and synagogue - whose modestly decorated interior features a reconstructed bimah and restored ceiling motifs - are an important pilgrimage site for devout Jews from all over the world.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35. Open ​09:00 - 16:00; Closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł.

UL. SZEROKA Make a right onto ul. Szeroka, perhaps Kazimierz’s most characteristic street, and you’ll walk down a narrow lane which has been staged to resemble a row of prewar Jewish shop fronts (actually the ‘Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu’ restaurant, p.46) before the street opens up into a wide square. Kraków’s very own ‘Broad Street’ (as the favourite opening line of local tour guides goes) might differ considerably from its NYC doppelnamer, but the moniker fits; the street originally served as the town square of a small 12th-century village known as Bawół, which was absorbed into Kazimierz in 1340, a few years after the latter was awarded its charter. In the late 15th century Jews banished from Kraków started settling in this area, and a new synagogue was established on the square for three subsequent centuries - all of which survive to this day. The epicentre of Jewish heritage tourism in Kraków, among the main points of interest on ul. Szeroka are a monument of Jan Karski - ‘Righteous Among the Nations’ for his early efforts to alert the Western Allies of the Holocaust - beside the Remuh Synagogue (ul. Szeroka 40), and a 16th-century Jewish bath house (mikvah) located in the basement of what is today the Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant (ul. Szeroka 6, p.46). At the north end of the square a small patch of grass that was probably established as a cemetery for plague victims is today a memorial and “Place of meditation upon the martyrdom of 65,000 Polish citizens of Jewish nationality from Cracow,” as a large stone monument explains.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka.

6 REMUH SYNAGOGUE & CEMETERY Dating from 1553, this is Kraków’s smallest but most active synagogue, with Shabbat services once again taking place here each Friday following the recent completion of restoration works. The synagogue was established by the family of famous 16th century Polish rabbi Moses Isserles - better known as ‘the Rema,’ based on a Hebrew acronym, and is unique for the proximity of the Old Jewish Cemetery adjacent to it. In use until 1800, this holy burial ground fell into utter ruin during Nazi occupation with only a dozen tombstones surviving WWII in their original state; among them was that of Rabbi Moses Isserles, which many interpreted as proof of his miraculous power. After the war the cemetery was ‘tidied up’ with many of the intact tombstones being rearranged in straight rows, and fragments of those which could not be restored used

98 Kraków In Your Pocket

7 POPPER SYNAGOGUE Tucked behind a gated courtyard, nestled between the street’s Jewish restaurants, you’ll find Popper Synagogue the least celebrated of ul. Szeroka’s Jewish places of worship.

Built in 1620 by wealthy Jewish merchant Wolf Popper, the building was devastated during WWII such that none of its interiors survived; in fact little is known of them. Converted into a cultural centre (Dom Kultury) during the PRL era, the synagogue was only recently returned to the hands of the Jewish community and is now under the stewardship of Austeria - a publishing house and bookshop specialising in Judaica (literature, history and guide books in a number of languages). A colourful Jewish-themed mural can be found in the courtyard here, and upstairs is a small gallery space with changing exhibits that typically charges admission.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 16, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89.

Open 11:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

8 OLD SYNAGOGUE Built on the cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, this is the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious architecture in Poland, and home to a fine series of exhibits that showcase the history and traditions of Polish Judaism. The English explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on the reader’s part and are therefore a perfect primer on the subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade.

There are also changing temporary exhibitions, and the bookshop sells a fine selection of works related to Jewish Kraków in a number of languages.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 16:00; Mon 10:00 - 14:00; Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł, Mon free. Y

Old Synagogue

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Kazimierz Walking Tour 9 ISAAC SYNAGOGUE

Either before or after exploring the Old Synagogue, take a detour down ul. Lemkowa - a small, picturesque lane which leads to the Plac Izaaka food truck square (p.44) directly behind the Isaac Synagogue. Built in the early Judaic-Baroque style, the Isaac Synagogue was a gift to the city from Izaak Jakubowicz, and opened in 1644. The design is decoratively endowed with arabesques and arches, yet retains a sober linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher food, sweets, Jewish calendars and other items, and around the back you’ll find Szalom Falafel - Kraków’s only kosher fast food restaurant (ul.

Jakuba 21 - in Feb open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 17:00 - 18:30, closed Fri; in March open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00, closed Sat).

Klezmer concerts take place here at 18:00 every Thu & Sun from 15th of March; tickets 60/40zł.QK‑8, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.org. Open 08:30 - 18:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:00, Closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł.

10 KAZIMIERZ HISTORICAL MURAL

SKAŁKA

SKAŁKA & THE PAULINE MONASTERY This gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most important religious sites in Poland. It was here that the Bishop of Kraków, Saint Stanisław of Szczepanów, was beheaded on the order of King Bolesław II; soon after, the king was exiled and the royal family fell under a curse. To appease the spirit of the wronged bishop, the family rebuilt this church and made annual pilgrimages here from Wawel to atone for the murder - a tradition which continues to this day each May 8th. Since 1472 a monastic order of Pauline Fathers has resided at Skałka, and in the 18th century the church received a Baroque refurb, which endures to this day. Stanisław was canonised in 1253, becoming the patron saint not only of Kraków, but of Poland. Inside an altar marks the place where he was killed and includes the wood stump upon which he is said to have been quartered. The pool where his remains were thrown still stands outside the church, elegantly adorned with a 17th century sculpture of the saint, and its waters are said to have healing properties. In 2008, the ‘Three Millennia Altar’ was built in the courtyard of the church, which features four-metre monuments of St. Stanisław, St. John Paul II, St. Faustyna, St. Jadwiga, St. Adalbert, St. Jan Kanty, and Abbot Augustyn Kordecki. The crypt at Skałka (open by prior arrangement only) is also a national pantheon for distinguished Poles, and includes the remains of writer Czesław Miłosz, painters Stanisław Wyspiański and Jacek Malczewski, among others.

QI‑9, ul. Skałeczna 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44, www.skalka.paulini.pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please. The crypt is open by prior arrangement.

Turning from the Isaac Synagogue onto ul. Kupa you’ll immediately see this mural by Piotr Janowczyk. Installed outside Pub Wręga in autumn of 2015 as part of the Kazimierz Historical Murals project, the work features portraits of five Polish historical figures - namely, (from left to right) Emperor Józef Hapsburg II, Helena Rubinstein (born in the district), Karol Knaus (local architect, artist and conservator), Esterka (the Jewish lover of King Kazimierz the Great), and finally King Kazimierz the Great himself.

Information on each character can be found in English beside the work.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 17. iyp.me/polandblog

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Kazimierz Walking Tour 11 HIGH SYNAGOGUE Further on you’ll find the third oldest synagogue in Kraków, completed in 1563. Unique for having its prayer room upstairs, it’s widely speculated that the High synagogue was thus designed to protect the congregation from unfriendly neighbours. The design didn’t save it from being the subject of arson during WWII sadly, and today no furnishings remain. The upstairs prayer room has retained some original details, however, including the Holy Ark, two golden griffins have survived above the Aron Kodesh, and some of the murals have been restored. The size of the high-ceilinged room and quality of those details that do remain indicate that this was a magnificent space before its destruction. Today admission is paid to go upstairs to the prayer room, where visitors will also see a small temporary museum exhibit. On the ground floor is Austeria - a large bookstore with books of Jewish interest in a variety of languages.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89.

Open 09:30 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 19:00. Admission to upstairs exhibit 12/9zł, children under 10 free.

12 KOWEA ITIM LE-TORA PRAYER HOUSE

If you thought Kraków had a lot of churches, two doors down from the High Synagogue, en route to the Old Synagogue, you’ll find this Orthodox prayer house. Most of what we know of the building is based off of its still-justvisible Hebrew inscription, which says something along the lines of ‘Making Time for the Torah Society,’ and indicates that Talmud lessons were conducted here. The two Stars of David on either side of the inscription tell us that the organisation was founded in 1810 and that the building was renovated in 1912. The original mezuzah trace can be seen on the doorway here, and on many buildings in the district if you keep your eye out. Devastated during the war, today the building is strictly residential.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 42.

13 GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM A walk to the end of ul. Józefa brings you back to ul. Szeroka and the Old Synagogue. If you walk down the Old Synagogue steps you can cut across to the left to ul. Dajwór and the Galicia Jewish Museum. With the name referring to the ethnically diverse northernmost province of the Austrian Habsburg Empire, which existed from 1772-1918 and extended from Kraków to Ternopil, this popular museum keeps the memory

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of Jewish life in southern Poland and western Ukraine alive via hundreds of photographs documenting former Jewish sites in Galicia today. The images of forgotten cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential part of any Kazimierz tour. The converted warehouse also houses small temporary exhibits, a large bookstore selling a range of titles of Jewish interest and a cafe. The adjacent garden features a huge mural, and if you can get way into the back of that courtyard, you’ll find further murals of Irena Sendler (Righteous Among the Nations) and Marek Edelman (leader of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising).QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42, www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Admission 16/11zł, family ticket 30zł, children under 7 free.

Guided tours available (in English, French and German) for individual and groups if arranged in advance. Y­U 14 ENGINEERING MUSEUM If your will is strong, you’ll bypass the Judah Square Food Truck Park (p.44), but not without at least admiring the large mural by Israeli street artist Pil Peled that presides over it. Next you arrive to Kazimierz’s late 19th century tram depot, half of which hosts the Stara Zajezdnia (p.62) brewery, beer hall and restaurant, while the other half across the street hosts the large and charming Engineering Museum. Home to multiple permanent and temporary exhibits, what you’ll currently find is the popular ‘Around the Wheel’ exhibit - which teaches kids fundamental scientific principles via 30 hands-on play stations; ‘It’s So Simple’ - a new interactive educational exhibit full of brainteasers, basic mechanics and future technologies like virtual reality; and a nostalgic exhibit about the Polish Fiat 125p (until March 31). In the old tram hangar you’ll also find the Gallery of Steel Figures - a showcase of pop culture icons made out of scrap metal, for which a separate (and quite expensive) ticket is required. More fun than it sounds and recommended for families, check their website to see what else is on.QK‑9, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 15, tel. (+48) 12 428 66 44, www.mimk.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Tue 09:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, family ticket 40zł. Gallery of Steel figures admission 35/25zł, family 100zł; combined ticket (Gallery and other exhibits) 45/30zł, family 140zł. Y­U

Corpus Christi Church

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Kazimierz Walking Tour 15 CORPUS CHRISTI CHURCH This massive brick beauty from the 14th century takes up two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it one of the city’s largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic style, the pulpit features a golden boat (with oars and a mast even) being held aloft by two mermaids. Though there are few things we like more than mermaids, the crowning glory has to be the towering golden altarpiece. According to legend, a robber who had stolen a precious relic from another church repented on this spot, abandoning the reliquary. The priests in pursuit saw a strange light emanating from the ground and discovering their sacred prize, founded a church here in recognition of the miracle.QK‑9, ul. Bożego Ciała 26, www.bozecialo.net. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00.

16 PLAC WOLNICA

Arriving on Plac Wolnica today, it’s hard to imagine that when laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek Kazimierski) upon the town’s establishment in 1335, this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter on each side than Kraków’s main square), making it the second largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was here that all the administrative authorities of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once was, today’s Plac Wolnica covers only a small fragment of the square’s original size.

Fortunately the Town Hall which stood at its very centre has managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierz’s incorporation into Kraków in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo-Renaissance style in the late 19th century. A curious plaque on the building commemorates the arrival of the Jews to Poland in the Middle Ages, and since WWII the Town Hall has housed the Ethnographic Museum (open 10:00 19:00; closed Mon. Admission 13/7zł, Sun free).

Perhaps ironically given its former status, urban revitalisation was slower to reach Plac Wolnica than the once predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy, but the square has caught up. Hosting an increasing number of cultural events, a winter ice rink (p.126), cafes and restaurants, this historic square has re-earned a rightful place on any tour of the district. A trip from here down ulica Mostowa will lead you straight to the Bernatek footbridge (p.107) into Podgórze (p.102).QK‑9. iyp.me/polandblog

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Podgórze Just south across the river from Kazimierz, lies Podgórze - a large district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual attractions. The name means ‘foothills,’ and its unique geography makes it one of Krakow’s greenest districts and most exciting to explore, thanks to wooded hills, limestone cliffs and ridges that offer panoramic views of the city centre. It is this same sinister geography, however, which resulted in Podgórze being the site of the city’s greatest human tragedy. The Nazis saw its natural placement between the river and the cliffs of Krzemionki as the ideal place for establishing a prison district, and in March of 1941 Kraków’s Jewish population was marched into the centre of Podgórze and walled off in what became known as the Kraków Ghetto (iyp.me/krakowghetto). Liquidated two years later, the majority of the Ghetto’s residents were murdered inside, while others met death in the nearby Płaszów concentration camp (iyp.me/plaszow), or in the gas chambers of Auschwitz (p.118) and Bełżec.

Traces of the Ghetto (p.107) are still visible today, and Podgórze’s wartime history and connections to Oskar Schindler remain what people most associate with the district. However, Podgórze has a long history which dates back over 10,000 years ago to the city’s founding myth. Legend explains Podgórze’s Krakus Mound (p.108) as the burial place of the city’s first ruler, and scientific studies have proven it to be Kraków’s most ancient structure dating back to the Iron Age. Podgórze also has a proud tradition of independence, having been granted the rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph II. Incorporated into greater Kraków in 1915, the district proudly reasserted its independence when on October 31st, 1918 local militants led by Antoni Stawarz seized control of the district from the Austrian Army in what is regarded as the first the action of the Second Republic of Poland following WWI. Although slow to develop in the years after the fall of communism, the opening of the world-class Schindler’s Factory Museum (p.105) in 2010 not only helped the city come to terms with the ghosts of the Holocaust, it also established Podgórze as a bona fide destination for tourists. The construction of the Bernatek footbridge soon afterwards opened the floodgates even further, creating a direct link from Plac Wolnica (p.101) to Rynek Podgórski (p.104) and leading to a burst of cafes and restaurants on the other side of the river. Today Podgórze is accepted as an obligatory part of the Kraków tourist trail, but still retains an evocative atmosphere of anguish and independence that sets it apart from Kraków’s other neighbourhoods. To get the most out of it, make time to explore its mysterious, lesserknown landmarks in addition to its marquee museums.

WHAT TO SEE One of Kraków’s largest districts, Podgórze offers much to explore, and no easily prescribed route for doing so. Rather than create an exacting tourist route, on our district map (left) we’ve indicated some suggestions for exploring the neighbourhood while still allowing the reader to decide which sites are of the most interest to them. iyp.me/polandblog

There are basically three areas of interest to tourists on this side of the river: Old Podgórze - once the historic centre of an independent city, this area also happens to be the territory of the former Jewish Ghetto; Zabłocie - the former industrial area east of Podgórze’s historic centre where you’ll find several museums including Schindler’s Factory; and Krzemionki the large territory of scenic limestone cliffs which rise above the historic centre and extend all the way to Krakus Mound.

Old Podgórze (Stare Podgórze) and Zabłocie can largely be explored in one day, especially if you rent a bike, while Krzemionki should be considered a separate adventure.

View of St. Joseph’s Church (p.104) in Old Podgórze.

OLD PODGÓRZE Begin by crossing over the picturesque Bernatek footbridge (p.107) and enjoy the neighbourhood atmosphere of the cafes, ice cream parlours and restaurants immediately along ul. Brodzińskiego en route to Rynek Podgórski (p.104) to see the stunning St. Joseph’s Church. Next work your way to Podgórze’s other main square - Plac Bohaterów Getta, today a memorial for the victims of the Ghetto. Ulica Jozefińska will not only lead you that way, but also still possesses a certain aura connected to those times; keep your eyes peeled for plaques describing the role of several of the buildings during the time of the Ghetto, and also an enormous mural dedicated to local sci-fi author Stanisław Lem. For those that don’t have the strength for the 3hr undertaking that is the Schindler’s Factory Museum (or Auschwitz for that matter), the Pharmacy Under the Eagle (p.106) on Plac Bohaterów Getta provides a manageable (but just as moving) alternative, particularly for those with an interest in the wartime experience of the city’s Jewish community; if you’re more of a general WWII buff, you’ll probably prefer the larger scope of Schindler’s Factory. Head to the latter via the Plac Bohaterów Getta underpass and then down ul. Kącik, or make a detour to see a stretch of the original Ghetto Wall (p.107) still standing on ul. Lwowska.

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Podgórze RYNEK PODGÓRSKI

This handsome triangular plot was once the official main market ‘square’ of the Free City of Podgórze, until the independent city was absorbed into Kraków in 1915.

The square was laid out in the 18th century at the foot of Lasota Hill, where roads leading to Kraków, Kalwaria, and Wieliczka intersected. Once a lively marketplace frequented by merchants from regional cities and more distant parts of Austria-Hungary, the Rynek had to say goodbye to commerce when a tram line was built in the district in 1917 (oh, modernity) with a turning loop that took up most of the trading space. Though the loop was eventually moved to a less cumbersome spot, the markets never resumed, and today the quiet square is mostly lined with residential buildings, save for the iconic neo-Gothic St. Joseph’s Church dominating the south end, and two former Town Halls - the ‘Under the White Eagle’ manor at no. 14 (early 19th century to 1854), and the younger, stately building at no. 1 (1854-1915, now the Kraków City Council Department of Architecture). It was beside the latter that a main gate into the Jewish Ghetto stood on ul. Limanowskiego during WWII (L-10).

Also of note is the small 18th-century manor house ‘Under the Black Eagle’ (no. 13), a former inn where Chopin once spent a night.QK/L‑10, Rynek Podgórski.

ST. JOSEPH’S CHURCH Presiding over the heart of historic Podgórze on the south side of the district’s main square, this unmissable neo-gothic juggernaut was built between 1905-09 on the design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower, elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of saints, St. Joseph’s slender, yet imposing brick facade rates among the most beautiful in Kraków and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The interior is no less beautiful and visitors should also note the abandoned 1832 belfry that stands on a rocky outcropping behind the church - all that remains of the original temple, dismantled due to design flaws.

QL‑10, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12 656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:30; Sun 13:00 - 17:30. No visiting during mass please.

104 Kraków In Your Pocket

ZABŁOCIE Once you’ve crossed under the train tracks you’ve entered Zabłocie. Historically an industrial area that arose in the late 19th and early 20th century, many of Zabłocie’s staterun factories closed or stagnated after 1989. Today this is the city’s most rapidly developing neighbourhood as old factories and warehouses are being torn down and replaced with modern apartment complexes and office buildings, or in some cases converted into cultural venues and restaurants, as is the case along ul. Lipowa. Advertised as artsy and cutting-edge (by the realtors of its highrent apartment buildings), in reality Zablocie is quickly becoming little more than a transit stop for tourists, and an overpopulated housing development full of young families lamenting the lack of trees in the neighbourhood. In addition to Schindler’s Factory (p.105), MOCAK (p.106) is very much worth a visit, but if you aren’t interested in these museums there’s not much reason to investigate the area.

Okay, so there are a few trees in Zabłocie.

KRZEMIONKI In contrast, if you’re looking for more of an active outdoor adventure exploring Kraków’s less tourist-trampled territory, Krzemionki is for you. This scenic upshot of limestone cliffs rises above Old Podgórze and extends south all the way past Krakus Mound to the haunting grounds of Płaszów - the former Nazi concentration camp (more on Płaszów at iyp.me/plaszow). One could enjoy an entire day just exploring the breadth of Bednarski Park, but for intrepid tourists we highly recommend trekking to the area of Lasota Hill (p.109) and then beyond it to Krakus Mound (p.108) and Liban Quarry (p.109). A bike won’t help you here; ditch it on ul. Rękawka and take the rocky dirt trail just past ul. Krakusa, which leads up into the woods. This will lead you straight to Lasota Hill and to complete your urban hike all the way to Krakus Mound and back you’ll probably want to set aside a couple hours.

Packing some food would be wise since there won’t be any opportunities to buy anything en route. And if you really do it right you’ll be enjoying panoramic views of the sun setting behind the Old Town while cracking a victory beer atop the Mound. Congrats, and cheers. iyp.me/krakow

Podgórze MUSEUMS CRICOTEKA Tadeusz Kantor (1915-1990) was an avant-garde artist, theatre director, set designer and a major figure in 20th century theatre reform, known for his revolutionary theatre productions. In 1980 he created ‘Cricoteka’ as a ‘living archive’ to document the achievements of himself and his theatre company Cricot 2. In 2014, Cricoteka opened its new headquarters here on the site of the former Podgórze power station, with the aim of better presenting his work and its impact on modern art and theatre. The building itself is an apparent homage to his experimental approach, literally hovering above the existing buildings with a bizarre facade of rusted metal and black mirror. Combined with the original buildings, the multifunctional site hosts an exhibition space, archive, theatre hall and bookshop; as a result, a large amount of its programme involves happenings, performances, workshops and other live events (check their website for those). As a museum, it’s difficult to recommend to those who aren’t already familiar with Kantor, or fans of alienating, experimental theatre. Temporary exhibits show art apparently inspired by Kantor’s ideas, while the permanent exhibit shows the evolution of Kantor’s increasingly eccentric career via stage props he created (including lots of creepy mannequins) and video footage. Free tablets with Englishlanguage info are available for visitors at the ticket desk.

Whether it all resonates is purely a matter of personal taste, as public opinion is notably divided.QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 2, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 70, www.news.cricoteka.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł. Y LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE Located directly across from MOCAK, this building has been a glassworks since 1931 and actually flourished during the PRL-era when up to 500 people were employed here under the auspices of not only glass bottle production but also glass art, scientific research and industrial design. During the 1970s ‘Cracovian glass’ achieved international renown for its bold experimentation with form, colour and texture, and today Lipowa 3 is still used for national glass research and production. The idea of an educational museum showcasing Polish glass and glassblowing technology has actually existed since 1972, and recent investment has now made those collections open to the public. The permanent exhibit includes bilingual displays of historical glass tools and antique glassware, but the highlight is the impressive ‘Cracovian Glass Art Collection’ of contemporary coloured glassware produced here between 1931 and 1998. Hourly glass-blowing demonstrations will resume in March. The ground floor includes a shop and a free gallery for rotating exhibits of contemporary glass art.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423 67 90, www.lipowa3.pl. Open 09:00 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From March open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Permanent exhibit 8/6zł. From March permanent exhibit and live demonstrations 16/14zł. Guided tours available in English by prior arrangement, 80zł. iyp.me/polandblog

SCHINDLER’S FACTORY

© fotopolska.eu

In 2010, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory (to give it its full name) re-opened to the public as a world-class museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which has been well-known since Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List (which was shot almost entirely in Kraków) brought it to audiences across the world in 1993, and while that story is covered in detail on the original site where many events took place, the museum actually casts the city of Kraków in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled, ‘Kraków During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945.’ Individual histories of Kraków’s wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, everyday life under occupation, the fate of the Jews, the city’s underground resistance and more, using vast archival documents, photos, radio and film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations.

Other exhibits change regularly (currently about the underground wartime activities of the local Council to Aid Jews), while a separate section of the original factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and other events. A must-visit, Schindler’s Factory is one of the most fascinating museums in the entire country and we recommend you reserve at least two hours if you want to see everything.

Tickets can be bought online three or more days in advance (www.bilety.mhk.pl), which, if you’re some kind of super-planner, is a smart move because visitor numbers are controlled and you could be disappointed if the museum is too busy. In fact, groups over 15 people are obliged book in advance. To get to the museum take a tram to Pl. Bohaterów Getta (L-9) and it’s a 5-10 minute walk down ul. Kącik, under the train overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and you’re there.QN‑9, ul.

Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl.

Open 10:00 - 18:00; Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. Admission 24/18zł, family ticket 55zł. Groups of over 15 people 18/15zł. Mon free for permanent exhibitions. Y February – March 2018

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Podgórze THE JEWISH GHETTO Before World War II Kraków was an important cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews – one quarter of the city’s total population. Following German occupation in September 1939, persecution of the Jewish community began almost immediately as their liberties were systematically restricted leading up to the Nazi order in April 1940 to turn Kraków into a “Jew-free city,” after which more than 50,000 Jews were forcibly deported to labour camps in the east.

In March 1941 the Nazi government decreed the establishment of a new ‘Jewish Housing District’ on the right bank of the Wisła River in Podgórze. The ‘Kraków Ghetto’ initially comprised an approximately 20 hectare (50 acre) space of some 320 mostly one- and two-story buildings in Podgórze’s historic centre, surrounded by a 3 metre high wall (remnants of which can still be seen today). 3,000 residents were removed from the area, replaced by some 16,000 Jews whose property and possessions were confiscated with the exception of what they could carry. Thousands of unregistered Jews also entered seeking protection, and in October 1941 a further 6,000 Jews from around Małopolska were forced into the ghetto, bringing its total population to about 24,000, with an average living space of less than 2 metres per person.

Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942, the Nazis began to initiate ‘The Final Solution’ – Hitler’s systematic plan for the annihilation of European Jewry.

From late May 1942 brutal round-ups became a regular occurrence in the ghetto with residents shot in the streets and marched under gunpoint from Plac Zgody (today ‘Plac Bohaterów Getta,’ p.107) into cattle cars at the Płaszów train station, most of which were bound for the death camp in Bełżec. The territory of the ghetto was gradually reduced by authorities, as those ablebodied enough were commuted daily to work on the construction of the nearby Płaszów labour camp. As soon as enough barracks had been built, 6,000 Jews still deemed ‘productive’ by the Nazis were moved to Płaszów permanently, and the order for the final liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto was given.

March 14th 1943 was the bloodiest day in Podgórze’s history as German troops attempted to herd the remaining residents into transports as chaos reigned.

Estimates are that as many as 2,000 people were killed in the streets, and 3,000 left via cattle car directly to the gas chambers in Auschwitz. The Kraków Ghetto disappeared essentially two years after its establishment and the Płaszów Concentration Camp was born (read more on p.6).

To learn more about Kraków’s Jewish Ghetto, read our extensive online feature at iyp.me/krakowghetto, and visit the Pharmacy Under the Eagle museum (p.106).

PHARMACY UNDER THE EAGLE When the Nazis created the Jewish ghetto in Podgórze in 1941, this pharmacy and its Polish owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at the very heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his staff were the only Poles allowed to live and work in the ghetto and over the two years of the ghetto’s existence, their pharmacy became an important centre of social life, resource for acquiring food, medicine and falsified documents and a safehouse for avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz (recognised today as ‘Righteous Among the Nations’) and his staff risked their lives in many clandestine operations while bearing witness to tragedy through the windows of the pharmacy as the ghetto and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately ‘liquidated.’ Today the building is a museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi occupation, which heartrendingly describes life in the Kraków Ghetto via first-hand testimonials and handson displays that create a very intimate visiting experience.

Though only 5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting this excellent museum.QL‑10, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656 56 25, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Mon 10:00 - 14:00; closed 2nd Tue of every month. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł, Mon free. Y MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCAK) Opened in 2011, Krakow’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK) does not disappoint, capably holding its own with comparable international art institutions. Tucked behind Schindler’s Factory, the building alone will impress with its avant-garde styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large and fine permanent collection of modern art highlighting both Polish and international artists, plus a new permanent exhibition space inspired by Warhol’s cult NYC studio known as The Factory. There are also always several provocative temporary exhibitions, and a large cafe and bookshop. Despite the relatively late closing hour, make sure to leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has to offer.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 14/7zł, Tue free. Guided tours (115zł + admission) in English, Italian, French and Chinese available, but must be arranged by phone in advance. Y­U

MOCAK

106 Kraków In Your Pocket

© Alana de Haan

iyp.me/krakow

Podgórze PLACES OF INTEREST BERNATEK FOOTBRIDGE Opened in 2010, the Father Bernatek Footbridge straddles the Wisła River just south of the centre, linking the districts of Kazimierz and Podgórze.

The 130m-long structure

© dziewul, AdobeStock accommodates both pedestrians and cyclists with its twin walkway design by local architect Andrzej Getter, and though a source of controversy during its development, is now a beloved part of the urban landscape, both for its convenience and aesthetic appeal. The bridge has played a key role in the revitalisation of the area it connects between Plac Wolnica and Rynek Podgórski, which is now not only an ideal route for an alternative pub crawl, but also a romantic stroll. It’s here that Cracovian couples have adopted the unoriginal tradition of attaching padlocks engraved with their names to the railings of the bridge, before throwing the keys into the Wisła (while the rest of us throw up in our mouths) as evidence of their unbreakable bond and commitment to each other. At the moment, the bridge is adorned with nine acrobatic gravity-defying sculptures by Jerzy Kędziora, which we hope stay there forever.QK‑9.

PLAC BOHATERÓW GETTA First plotted out in 1836, this public square just across the river from the Powstańców Śląskich bridge has had a turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over the years.

During the time of the Kraków Ghetto it was at once the source of the residents’ greatest relief and also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation. As the ghetto’s largest open space, Plac Zgody was a place for people to socialise, relax and escape the oppressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also the site of families being torn apart, mass deportations to the death camps, beatings and executions. Following deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and other belongings that the victims had been forced to abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign of the square. Though after the war the name of Plac Zgody was changed to Plac Bohaterów Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) and a small monument was erected, the space’s historical significance never felt more pertinent than its post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot. Finally, after decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterów Getta was renovated in 2005, sparking significant controversy over the design. Laid out with 70 large well-spaced metal chairs meant to symbolise departure, as well as subsequent absence, the entire square has essentially been turned into an odd, but iconic memorial to the victims of the Kraków Ghetto. A place for candles and reflection was created in the former German guardhouse at the north end of the square, however the gesture rings hollow considering the space is always locked.QL‑9. iyp.me/polandblog

GHETTO WALL FRAGMENTS

UL. LWOWSKA 25-29 In 1983 a commemorative plaque was added to this prominent 12m stretch of the original ghetto wall, which reads in Hebrew and Polish: “Here they lived, suffered and died at the hands of the German torturers.

From here they began their final journey to the death camps.”QM‑10.

UL. LIMANOWSKIEGO 62 An even longer and arguably more evocative section of the original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground behind the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego 60/62. Those looking to continue their creepy tour of the area should climb the steep trail leading from the back of the playground straight up to the Old Podgórze Cemetery, to the right from which is the abandoned Fort Benedict.QM‑11.

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Podgórze KRAKUS MOUND

The oldest structure in Kraków, Krakus Mound (Kopiec Krakusa) is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds in the city and is also its highest point, providing incredible panoramic views from its 16m summit. The site of pagan rituals for centuries, the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki, the green rolling fields of Płaszów, the grim Liban quarry and the Podgórze cemetery. With incredible views of the city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Kraków’s least explored and most captivating areas and should be visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from the ‘Powstańców Wielkopolskich’ tram stop via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod Kopcem (M-11), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (L/M-11) to the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstańców Wielkopolskich to the base of the mound.

The result of great human effort and innovative engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and mystery. Connected with the legend of Kraków’s mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said to have been constructed in honour of his death when noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape. In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if Krak was indeed buried beneath it. Though much about the ingenuity of the mound’s prehistoric engineers was revealed, no trace of a grave was found; a bronze belt from the 8th century was unearthed and there is general agreement today that the mound was created by a Slavonic colony sometime between the latter half of the 7th century and the early 10th century, though other hypotheses credit it to the Celts. Originally four smaller mounds surrounded the base of Krak’s mound, however these were levelled in the mid-19th century during the construction of the city’s first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The legend of Krak’s mound inspired the modern creation of burial mounds for Kościuszko and Piłsudski and today it remains one of Poland’s greatest archaeological mysteries.QM‑12, above ul. Maryewskiego.

108 Kraków In Your Pocket

STARMACH GALLERY Built between 1879-1881, this was one of four prayer houses within the ghetto, the others being located at numbers 6 and 7 on the same street and nearby at ul. Krakusa 7.

Religious practise was outlawed by the Germans during the war (though it continued in secret) and the synagogue was converted into a warehouse and then a factory. When the ghetto was established, many valuable religious artefacts from Kazimierz synagogues were transferred here for protection, however the eventual liquidation of the ghetto guaranteed that they were looted and lost. After the war the building stood derelict until Andrzej and Teresa Starmach rescued it in 1996, turning it into one of the largest and most renowned private art galleries in PL. The exhibitions are always outstanding and a visit is recommended.QL‑10, ul. Węgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www.starmach. eu. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

OLD PODGÓRZE CEMETERY Podgórze’s primary necropolis for over a hundred years, the Old Podgórze Cemetery is/was the resting place of the formerly independent city’s most distinguished citizens.

Established in the late 18th century, the cemetery’s grand arched gateway is set back from a busy intersection on a hill behind the iconic sculpture of ‘God the Father.’

Unfortunately, with the exception of a few, many of the most notable graves have been lost during the boneyard’s turbulent history. Crossing the stone entry, the first grave on the right is the resting place of Edward Dembowski leader of the 1846 Kraków Uprising, laid to rest here in a collective grave with 28 insurgents shot by the Austrian Army; nearby is the Bednarski family vault, where Wojciech - founder of Podgo’s most beautiful park - reposes. Closed upon reaching capacity in 1900, the Germans levelled a third of the cemetery during WWII while building a railway. Even more grievous was the site’s reduction to a fraction of its original size during the construction of al.

Powstańców Wielopolskich in the 1970s, when almost all the graves were destroyed or strewn haphazardly about.

Like much of the district today, the cemetery’s charm lies in the nostalgic character of its general neglect and vanishing beauty. Get there easily by taking tram number 6, 13 or 24 to ‘Powstańców Wielkopolskich.’QM‑11, Corner of ul.

Limanowskiego and ul. Powstańców Wielopolskich.

Open 07:00 - 18:00.

iyp.me/krakow

Podgórze LASOTA HILL Lasota Hill refers to the section of Krzemionki east of Bednarski Park, and home to Podgórze’s richest residences along the picturesque villa-lined lanes of ul. Parkowa, Plac Lasota and ul. Stawarza. But follow ul. Stawarza to its end - or alternatively venture up any of the slightly foreboding wooded trails off of ul. Rękawka (our preferred route) - and you’ll soon end up in an inexplicable meadow in the midst of some of the city’s strangest territory. Once a popular site for pagan worship, the ancient and miniscule St. Benedict’s Church was built here in the 11th century specifically to put a frowny face on such practices. One of the city’s oldest churches, it is certainly the smallest, and after years of restorations, rumour is it will finally offer limited opening hours starting this spring.

Fort Benedict

The other primary point of interest here is Fort Benedict, the only surviving fortress of three that were built in Podgórze in the mid-19th century; in fact this is one of the few citadels of the ‘Maximillion Tower’ type surviving anywhere. An imposing brick monolith in the shape of a 16-sided polygon, today the fort stands abandoned with the city unable to decide what to do with it. Though you can certainly scramble through the fence to explore it up close, we’re sure you’ll find (like we did) that this fort is indeed impenetrable.

It was upon this meadow on Lasota Hill that one of the most powerful scenes from Schindler’s List was filmed, in which Schindler (played by Liam Neeson) and his wife are on horseback when they stop on Lasota Hill and witness the horror taking place during a Nazi round-up in the Jewish Ghetto below. This scene serves as a turning point in the film for Schindler’s character as he focuses in on the ‘girl in the red coat’ - the otherwise black and white film’s most powerful visual device.

Though in summer the trees are a bit too lush, in winter Lasota Hill indeed offers views of Podgórze, Kazimierz and the Old Town from its ridge. Look away from the centre and you’ll see Krakus Mound looming in the distance; actually closer than it looks, you’re only about a 20min walk away and the effort is worth it. Alternatively, follow the trail east between the church and fortress and you’ll find the Old Podgórze Cemetery across from the playground of a public school on whose property a segment of the original Ghetto Wall still stands.QM‑10/11. iyp.me/polandblog

LIBAN QUARRY

One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Kraków, the Liban Quarry should first and foremost be a place of remembrance for the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated here during WWII. That said, the site which largely lies in overgrown abandon today - offers adventurous visitors some intriguing opportunities for exploration, photography, and personal reflection.

Left to slowly evolve into a nature sanctuary for local waterfowl, pheasants, birds of prey and various other creatures, the quarry’s towering limestone cliffs, ponds and dense vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery equipment, fence posts, gravestones and tangles of barbed wire that can still be found amongst the brush here.

The Jewish limestone company ‘Liban and Ehrenpreis’ established a quarry here in 1873, and by the end of the 19th century a complex of buildings had been established inside and a railway line had been laid. During Nazi occupation, however, Liban was seized and set-up as a cruel penal camp where 800 Poles were forced to perform gruelling slave labour from 1942 to 1944. A small, discreet and easily overlooked memorial for 21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp lies beside the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.

In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all the scenes from Schindler’s List that take place in the Płaszów concentration camp. During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were set-up around the quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed with the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as you walk amongst the many gallows-like fence posts strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly, the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved with Jewish headstones; we can put you at ease by assuring you it is not genuine. An incredibly evocative, yet peaceful and beautiful site, enter the quarry at your own risk by following a trail from Krakus Mound toward Podgórze Cemetery along the rim of and into the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though there is nothing unlawful about being in the quarry, city employees of the Housing Office buildings at the quarry’s entrance have been known to deny entry or ask people to leave.QM‑12, ul. Za Torem.

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Nowa Huta

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Nowa Huta The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis of everything cuddly Kraków is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta is one of only two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the other being Magnitogorsk in Russia’s Ural Mountains), and one of the finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world.

Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of Kościelniki (as well as parts of Mogiła and Krzesławice) in an attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Kraków. The decision to build NH was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over the next few years construction of a model city for 100,000 people sprung up at breakneck speed. Built to impress, Nowa Huta featured wide, treelined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Huta’s architects strove to construct the ideal city, with ironic inspiration coming from the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New York (that despicable western metropolis). Careful planning was key, and the suburb was designed with ‘efficient mutual control’ in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a fortress if it came under attack.

Work on the first block of flats began on June 23, 1949, and it was a massive task, with volunteer workers flocking from across Poland to take part in this bold project. Feats of personal sacrifice were rife and encouraged with one man, Piotr Ożański, publicly credited with laying an stupendous 33,000 bricks in one single day. For the workers life was tough; many were still sleeping in tents when the first winter arrived, legends abound of bodies buried in the foundations, and crime was rampant.

Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was Nowa Huta was never fully realised. A fearsome Town Hall in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland was never built, nor was the theatre building across from it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added.

However what was completed is very much worth the trip for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of Kraków; it’s as easy as a tramride.

GETTING TO NOWA HUTA Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram network. Tram 4 from ‘Dworzec Główny’ (the train station stop, K-5) goes straight to Plac Centralny (S-3) in about 20mins. iyp.me/polandblog

‘Socialist Renaissancism’ (we made it up): the NH Steelworks.

© Michał Kwaśniak, flickr

WHAT TO SEE Jump off a tram at the ‘Plac Centralny’ stop, and find yourself at the very nucleus of Nowa Huta. From 1973 to 1989 an enormous monument of Vladimir Lenin towered over the citizens of Nowa Huta at the north end of Plac Centralny.

Dismantling it after the fall of communism was an important act of symbolism (cheered by thousands of spectators), which later turned into almost comic irony when the square he once stood on - and which was named for a time after Joseph Stalin - was officially re-designated ‘Ronald Reagan Square’ in 2004. Speak to any local, however, and you’ll still hear it referred to as Plac Centralny (p.112). A walk around Plac Centralny’s fearsome social realist arcades brings you to several minor points of interest, including the iconic Markiza neon sign, and Cepelix folk art shop. Also within easy walking distance is the former Świtowid cinema - another social realist stalwart that today houses the Museum of Poland Under the Communist Regime (p.112), and the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre - currently home to a fantastic exhibit of grotesque, apocalyptic paintings by 20th century Polish artist Zdzisław Beksiński (p.112) and also World Press Photo (until March 1st, p.23). All are worth visits before wandering back to Plac Centralny and down Roses Avenue to the Nowa Huta Museum (p.113).

Although Plac Centralny and Roses Avenue serve as the district’s focal point, it’s the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1) that Nowa Huta is famous for, not to mention named after.

Employing 40,000 people in its heyday the ‘Lenin Steelworks’ produced seven million tonnes of steel annually, and boasted the largest blast furnace in Europe. If you take the trouble to get to the main entrance gate, you’ll see that it’s flanked by two austere concrete administrative buildings which aim for Renaissance grandeur, but actually achieve the pinnacle of socialist realist architecture in PL. Enjoy the view because you’ll go no further; the steelworks is sadly off limits to tourists.

While much of NH is the product of the last half century, a thorough tour of the area reveals treasures of much older historical value. Proof of a pre-steel age in the area is Wanda’s Mound (p.109), located just in front of 1,000 hectare sprawl of the Steelworks. This mysterious prehistoric earthwork is evidence that the area’s settlement goes all the way back to pre-Christian times, and predates that of Kraków’s Old Town.

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Nowa Huta PLAC CENTRALNY

Cepelix

The centre of Nowa Huta’s architectural layout, Plac Centralny (Central Square) is the district’s primary landmark and one of social realism’s highest architectural achievements, despite never being completed. The two main structures of the square were to be the towering Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an obelisk in between; though the designs were in place, none saw development.

Similarly, the grand promenade linking them - Aleja Róż (Roses Avenue, S-1/2) - was never fully realised, and terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine example of your typical Stalinist ‘road to nowhere.’

While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining the way, you’ll find several curiosities. First and foremost, don’t miss the gorgeously restored ‘Markiza’ neon sign at the corner of os. Centrum A and al. Jana Pawła II (S-3). Though the cake shop it advertised is long gone, the sign stands out as the area’s most nostalgic memento from the PRL era. Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, S-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00, closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design, this amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the original 50s interior featuring long chandeliers and a white coffer ceiling covered in colourful hand-painted ceramic plates. The character of this place hasn’t changed a bit and as such it’s a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework, famous Bolesławiec pottery, and even Nowa Huta souvenirs. Across the street is a typical milk bar (bar mleczny), one of the Soviet era worker cafeterias which still thrive in the district. If you think that can’t be topped, only a few doors down Aleja Róż behold the hideously outdated interiors of the famous Stylowa Restaurant - one of the only places to eat in NH that isn’t a milk bar. Once one of the most exclusive restaurants in town, this place carries on in the same spirit as the day it opened with an interior that has hardly changed over the years.QR‑3.

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ZDZISŁAW BEKSIŃSKI GALLERY One of PL’s most internationally recognised and controversial 20th century painters, Zdzisław Beksiński is known for his large, almost luminous, and emotionally-charged canvases depicting grotesque figures and apocalyptic landscapes.

The themes of war, ruin, decay and deformity are prevalent throughout his work, which has been described as both ‘fantastical realism’ and ‘dystopian surrealism;’ we’d call it something of a cross between H.R. Giger and Francis Bacon.

One of the most worthwhile things to see in Nowa Huta, this stunning collection of 50 paintings in the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre features some of his most definitive work, perfectly presented in a dark room on black walls, where the only light is directly on the art itself. If you find yourself completely fascinated by Beksiński, his life and family are the subject of the excellent 2016 film Ostatnia Rodzina (The Last Family).QR‑3, Al. Jana Pawła II 232, tel. (+48) 12 644 02 66, www.nck.krakow.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł.

MUSEUM OF POLAND UNDER THE COMMUNIST REGIME In development for years, this museum inside the former Kino Światowid - a local landmark in social realist architecture, completed in 1957 - is dedicated to Polish history between the years 1944 and 1989, telling the story of everyday life during the country’s communist era. Temporary exhibits occupy the ground floor (currently ‘Parcel from America’ until March 4th) and upper level (‘In Opposition: Solidarity in Małopolska during Martial Law’), while the former cinema’s cellars hold the intriguing exhibit ‘Nuclear Threat: Shelters of Nowa Huta.’

There are actually some 250 shelters beneath NH - enough to accommodate every resident in the district - and this is the largest in Kraków. Well-translated throughout, including an instructive film with English subtitles, here you’ll learn about the very organised and intricate plan Poland had for dealing with a potential nuclear attack during the Cold War, and the role every citizen would play in such an event. If you’re from the West, it’s akin to mild culture shock, and the space itself is impressively vast. Within easy walking distance from Plac Centralny, if you’ve made the trip out to NH there’s no reason not to make a stop here. Szpeje - a small shop inside selling genuine antiques from the PRL era - is an added bonus.

QS‑3, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, www.mprl. pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 10/8zł; Tue free. iyp.me/krakow

Nowa Huta NOWA HUTA MUSEUM This small museum features sweet neon signage and a series of changing exhibitions relating to the life and culture of the district. A requisite stop for anyone in the area, here you can also pick up plenty of information about NH, and they arrange sightseeing tours of the district as well.

QS‑2, Os. Słoneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97 75, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 12zł. Tue free. Y­U WANDA’S MOUND Though construction of Nowa Huta began in 1949, Wanda’s Mound (Kopiec Wandy) is indisputable evidence that the history of the area goes back much further. In fact, the village of Mogiła, which Wanda’s Mound is near the historical centre of, has been inhabited since 5000 BC without interruption (archaeologists date the settlement of Kraków’s Old Town much later in the 8th century).

Together with Krakus Mound (p.108) - Kraków’s other prehistoric earthwork - Wanda’s Mound plays a role in one of Poland’s greatest archaeological mysteries as the mound’s date of construction, builders and function all remain a subject of great speculation. Leading theories suggest that both mounds were erected sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries, by either the Slavs or the Celts, as burial mounds or pagan cult sites; perhaps most likely is that they were created as burial mounds which later became cult sites. Though seemingly random within the layout of modern Kraków, the location of the two mounds can hardly be seen as an accident; when standing atop Wanda’s Mound on the evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be seen setting in a direct line behind Krakus Mound.

Off a major road behind a handy tram stop (station ‘Kopiec Wandy’ - tram 10 takes you there), Wanda’s Mound is a conical earthwork rising 14m with a winding path to the top, adorned by a small 19th century monument from the by Jan Matejko who lived in the Krzesławice Manor nearby. The victim of general neglect and geographical trespasses, Wanda’s Mound today lies just outside the fence of the fearsomely enormous Sendzimir steel plant, of which unglamorous glimpses can be seen through the trees. The view to the southwest is an improvement, where Krakus Mound and Podgórze can be seen in the distance, though Wanda’s Mound unfortunately doesn’t offer sweeping views of the same calibre as Kraków’s other mounds. If you’re still feeling adventurous after climbing the mound, there’s a footpath that leads you east into woods and on to one of Kraków’s hidden 19th century Austrian fortresses, but, honestly, it just gives us the creeps.QNear intersection of ul. Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa. iyp.me/polandblog

CRAZY GUIDES Specialising in communist-themed tours of Nowa Huta: experience Stalin’s gift to Kraków in a genuine Eastern Bloc Trabant 601 automobile as you zip around the district with young, informative guides. The tour includes Plac Centralny, a stop for food in a milk bar, a propaganda film in communist era apartment, vodka shots in Stylowa restaurant, the gates of the Steelworks and more. Considering the large size and somewhat underwhelming nature of walking around the district on your own, this is the best way to get the most out of a trip to Nowa Huta.QR‑3, tel. (+48) 500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. ‘Communism Tour’ 159zł per person.

POLISH AVIATION MUSEUM

Last surviving aircraft from PL’s Sept. 1939 campaign.

© Alan Wilson, flickr

Located on one of the oldest military airfields in Europe, this oft-overlooked, but highly regarded museum holds a premier collection of aircraft, artefacts and exhibits related not only to Polish, but world aviation history and heritage. The new exhibition building is bursting with interactive displays, historic aircraft, plus a cinema, while the original exhibits in the airfield’s numerous hangars are stuffed with old photographs, engines, uniforms and plenty more airplanes, helicopters and gliders, while the yards surrounding them are literally littered Russian-built fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw Pact. While many of the displays are in Polish only, this is still a great outing (Dads love it) that can take the most of a day to explore thoroughly. Located in the no-mans-land between the city centre and Nowa Huta, to get there take tram 52 from ‘Dworzec Główny’ (K-4) to ‘Muzeum Lotnictwa.’QAl. Jana Pawła II 39 (Czyżyny), tel. (+48) 12 642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 15/7zł, family ticket 34zł; Tue free. Y­U February – March 2018

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Wieliczka

Worth the 10zł photography fee, the Chapel of St. Kinga is Wieliczka Salt Mine’s crown jewel | Alana de Haan, alanacdehaan.com

Kraków is without a doubt one of the most popular tourist cities in Central Europe, and as you’ve likely heard, one of its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually located in Wieliczka—a small town about 15km to the southeast.

An astounding 1.4 million people visit Wieliczka Salt Mine each year, and it’s hardly a recent phenomenon—people have been visiting the salt mine for centuries with notable guests including Nicolaus Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk Chopin, Ignacy Paderewski, Pope John Paul II and former US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first official tourist trail opened underground here way back in the mid-19th century. But it’s not only tourists who come to visit. So deep is the love of the locals for this place that in a recent survey, Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine as their number one favourite thing about Kraków; again, not bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres away.

TOURIST INFORMATION WIELICZKA TOURIST INFORMATION Wieliczka’s small tourist information centre is strategically located quite close to the Wieliczka train station, evenly spaced between the Regis and Daniłowicza Shafts. These folks will get you pointed in the right direction and provide you with all the maps and info needed to get you there, as well as helping you find places to eat, sleep and investigate.Qul. Dembowskiego 2A, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 288 00 52, www.ckit.wieliczka.eu. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

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Not only is Wieliczka Salt Mine a World Heritage Site, but it has the distinction of having been included (along with Kraków’s Old Town and Kazimierz districts) on UNESCO’s first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you know, back when being a World Heritage site actually meant something). Additional accolades aside, this unique industrial heritage site has been a popular destination for centuries and if you’re visiting Kraków for more than a few days, you should consider a short side trip out to Wieliczka.

WHAT TO SEE One of the most famous attractions in all of Poland, the Wieliczka Salt Mine is what has drawn tourists to this small town for centuries. Visiting this underground realm can be done in a number of ways. Most popular is the traditional ‘Tourist Route,’ which leaves from the Daniłowicza Shaft and covers the most impressive parts of the mine, including ancient mining tools and technology, saline lakes, and numerous majestic chambers and chapels, particularly St. Kinga’s Chapel. An alternative option is the more interactive ‘Miners’ Route,’ which leaves from the Regis Shaft and involves participants being assigned a role by the foreman/ tour guide and experiencing the daily routines, rituals and secrets of working underground. As one of the oldest and most wealthy towns in Małopolska, it’s safe to assume that not all of Wieliczka’s wonders reside underground. Listed as a historical monument in 1994, the centre of the town itself - located between the two shafts - is easily walkable and perfectly charming, including a handsome town square, the Saltworks Castle and St. Clement’s Church. iyp.me/krakow

Wieliczka WIELICZKA SALT MINE - TOURIST ROUTE For literally hundreds of years, tourists have enjoyed the underground wonders of Wieliczka’s Salt Mine, and the most popular way to visit begins at the Daniłowicza Shaft, located just a short walk up ul. Daniłowicza from the Wieliczka train station; buy your ticket from the adjacent ticket office and check the outside display for the time of the next guided tour in your language (tours are offered in Polish, English, Russian, French, Italian, Spanish and German). Your ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine: the Tourist Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and the Underground Museum which takes an additional hour to visit. In between there’s an opportunity to take a break, use the restrooms and even get something to eat (or escape if that’s your preference). However, be aware that the tour does not end at the restaurant as many tour guides suggest it does to foreign groups; in fact, they are obliged to escort you to and through the Underground Museum (which you have already paid for) as well.

Be prepared to do a lot of walking (comfortable shoes, people) and bear in mind that the mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to endear yourself to the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szczęść Boże (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable bit of miner’s lingo effectively means ‘God be with you’ and substitutes for Dzień dobry (‘hello’) when underground.

Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden stairs to the first level 64m underground; don’t worry, you won’t have to climb them, but just descending will give your calves a work-out. Of nine levels, the tour only takes you to the first three (a max depth of 135m), with the 3.5km covered during the 3 hour tour (including both parts) comprising a mere 1% of this underground realm.

While wandering the timber-re-enforced tunnels you’ll gain insight from your guide into the history of the site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives of the men who worked there. There’s the opportunity to not only operate a mediaeval winch used for moving massive blocks of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring some tequila).

The tour visits numerous ancient chambers and chapels in which almost everything around you is made from rock salt, including the tiled floors, chandeliers, sculptures and stringy stalactites that hang down.

Detail from a bas-relief in St. Kinga’s Chapel, Tourist Route.

HISTORY About 20 million years ago, Kraków and the surrounding area apparently lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea. Unfortunately for those of us here today, the beaches are gone, but left behind were some enormous salt deposits, shifted hundreds of metres underground by tectonic movements. Though cheap and universally accessible today, salt was an extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due to its ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient sign of wealth, salt was used as currency before there was money; Roman soldiers who ably performed their duties were said to be ‘worth their salt’ and the word ‘salary’ comes from the Latin word ‘salarium’ used to describe their salty wages.

Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface pools in the regions surrounding Kraków can be traced back to the middle Neolithic era (3500 BC), but it was the discovery of underground rock salt in the 13th century that led to the rapid development of the area.

Underground extraction began in nearby Bochnia in 1252 and was established on an industrial scale in Wieliczka by the 1280s; soon both cities had earned municipal rights and by the end of the 13th century the Cracow Saltworks was established to manage both mines, with its headquarters in the Wieliczka castle complex. One of the first companies in Europe, the Cracow Saltworks brought vast wealth to the Polish crown for the next 500 years until the first partition of Poland in the 18th century. Its heyday was the 16th and 17th centuries when it employed some 2,000 people, production exceeded 30,000 tonnes and the Saltworks accounted for one third of the revenue of the state treasury.

Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production was further increased by mechanising the mining works with steam and later electric machinery, and the first tourist route was opened. By the 20th century however, over-exploitation and neglect of necessary protection works had begun to destabilise the mine’s condition and the market value of salt no longer made it a viable enterprise. In 1964 the extraction of rock salt was halted in Wieliczka and in 1996 exploitation of the salt deposit was stopped altogether. Despite the significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins, explosive gas), over the course of seven centuries 26 access shafts and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual levels had been drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers had been excavated with over 240km of tunnels reaching a maximum depth of 327m underground.

Due to its unique saline microclimate and innovative engineering, the mine has been well preserved and is today used for historical, medicinal and tourist purposes.

Alexander Baxevanis, CC BY 2.0

iyp.me/polandblog

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Wieliczka

The IYP team auditions for work underground on the Miners’ Route.

The highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m³ St. Kinga’s Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for its amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall carvings from the New Testament done by miners that display an astonishing amount of depth and realism. After passing a lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall high enough to fly a hot-air balloon in, the first part of the tour ends at the underground restaurant and souvenir stands, at which point you should be instructed on your two options: how to exit (option A) or where and when to join the second part of the tour (option B). If this option B is unmentioned or unclear, inform your guide that you also want to see the Underground Museum and ask them how to do so.

At your leisure you should be able to find your way past the restaurant and restrooms, beyond which you’ll find the queue for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that shoots you back up to the surface (option A), and separate area to the right for those that want to continue on to the Underground Museum (option B, which we heartily recommend). Your original guide should admit you into the museum exhibition which comprises an additional 16 chambers over 1.5kms packed full of artwork, artefacts and mining equipment which your guide will elaborate on. Perhaps the most fascinating and

GETTING TO WIELICZKA Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out of Kraków leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15 minutes. Alternatively, regular transit service from Kraków Główny makes getting to Wieliczka easier than ever for tourists. Unfortunately current work on the rails means that some train connections have been replaced with buses; one or the other leaves every 30mins between 05:00 and 23:00, and the journey time is between 22 and 42mins, depending; both cost 3.50zł each way and tickets can be bought on board. Note, however, that trains leave from platform 3 of Kraków Głowny train station, while buses depart from the ‘Dworzec Główny Wschód’ bus stop (L-3); in either case get off at ‘Wieliczka Rynek-Kopalnia.’ Check rozklad. pkp.pl for exact connections and times.

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informative part of the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of these beautiful exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of sparkling salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you back to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back to where you started.Qul. Daniłowicza 10, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. Open 08:00 - 17:00.

Admission 89/69zł. Taking photos is an additional 10zł.

Tickets can be bought online through their website, which is the best way to see the tour times available. In addition to the traditional ‘Tourist Route’ described above, other routes in English are also offered from the Daniłowicza Shaft if booked in advance, including the ‘Pilgrims’ Route’ and a handicap-accessible route.

WIELICZKA SALT MINE - MINERS’ ROUTE A more interactive alternative to the mega-popular ‘Tourist Route,’Wieliczka’s Miners’ Route offers visitors a chance to sign on as novice miners for the day and learn the ropes of this dangerous and demanding profession. This more workmanlike expedition sets off from the historic Regis Shaft, located right in the centre of Wieliczka, just a short walk east from the train station. Here, participants are given grey coveralls, a hard hat, headlamp and emergency respirator, assigned a locker, and told to suit up and report for underground duty. In addition to the fun of dressing up and looking slightly ridiculous, each person in the group is given a specific role by the foreman/ tour guide who will appraise their performance when they are called upon to perform certain tasks during the course of this 3-hour trip underground. While exploring passages and chambers that are sometimes lit only by the light of your own torches, you and your companions will learn safety measures, strange mining traditions and rituals, how to use specialised mining equipment and get a more authentic and exciting sense of what it’s like to work underground. While some members will be tasked with measuring the concentration of methane, transporting, or grinding up salt, the map readers have perhaps the most challenging job of navigating the group through this extremely disorienting underground labyrinth. Szczęść Boże!

Though lacking the jaw-dropping sights of the Tourist Route, the Miners’ Route can be great fun for groups (up to 20 people), especially if you’ve done the Tourist Route before. Individuals can also go on their own, or join together to form a group. Tours are given in Polish, English or Russian only, are offered at specific times and should be reserved in advance; please arrive 15mins before the tour begins in order to get geared up. While hardly strenuous, this route is more active than the Tourist Route and comfortable shoes are a must. Also, bear in mind that the mine is a cool 15 degrees Centigrade.QPlac Kościuszki 9, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl.

Open 09:30 - 15:00. Admission 89/69zł. Tickets can be bought online through their website, which is the best way to see the tour times available. A more physicallystrenuous 4-hour tour called ‘Mysteries of the Wieliczka Salt Mine’ is also offered in English from Regis Shaft if booked two weeks in advance. iyp.me/krakow

Auschwitz

The infamous Auschwitz I entrance gate. | © noel moore, Dollar Photo Club

For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here, etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history books and countless films, documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective consciousness.

Visitors to Kraków and Katowice are faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.

The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion, poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself.

Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by 118 Kraków In Your Pocket

the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern.

As such, we believe everyone should visit.

VISITING AUSCHWITZ If you’ve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have three options: visit as part of a group organised by a tourist agency, visit independently and join a guided tour at the museum, or visit independently for free without a guide.

Unfortunately, a new online reservation system now makes the latter two options much more difficult than in the past.

All visits must now be booked in advance through the website visit.auschwitz.org. As a result, you may find there are no tickets available because they have all been snatched up by tourist agencies. The unavailability of tickets online doesn’t mean you can’t visit Auschwitz when you want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a tour through an outside provider. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it is worth it.

If you are determined to visit independently you need to know that during peak season (April - October) the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a 3.5hr guided tour unless you get there before 10:00 or after 16:00 - during which times it is possible to visit iyp.me/krakow

Auschwitz for free on your own (last entrance to Auschwitz I is 1.5hrs before closing). Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the official guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own. Tour departure times fluctuate (check the schedule online), but tours in English depart frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish; tours in other languages can also be arranged in advance through the website.

Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum on your own can be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows with different designations, and excessive signage that is unclear or contradicts itself. If you are visiting independently, or in a small group, head for the desk marked ‘Individual Guests;’ however, from March those without tickets must first visit the white Info box located outside the entrance before then queuing for at the inside cash desk for ‘Individual Guests.’ Once you’re through the queues, your experience typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film is not guaranteed however, so in some cases your tour will begin straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear through your headphones. If you intend to explore Auschwitz without a guide, we recommend that you give yourself several hours to explore both camps, and that you pick up the official guidebook (5zł) whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous bookshops at both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II - Birkenau.

Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast.

After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some limited food available at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and a restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz IIBirkenau. Note that only small bags are allowed into Auschwitz I; if your bag exceeds the very small dimensions of 30x20x10cm, you’ll have to leave it somewhere; lockers are provided for this purpose.Qul. Stanisławy Leszczyńskiej 11, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau open in February 07:30 - 17:30, in March 07:30 - 18:30. Auschwitz is not recommended for those under 14 years old. An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both camps, plus the film, costs 50/45zł. Tours for groups range from 430-850zł depending on size of group and type of tour. Official guidebook 5-10zł.

Admission without a guide (when possible) to either camp is free, but the film costs 6/3zł. iyp.me/polandblog

GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ

Lying 75km west of Kraków, there are several ways to get to Oświęcim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be signing on for a tour organised by a multitude of Kraków-based tour companies (like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything goes smoothly; providing transportation, tickets and general guidance, the organisational help of these outfits can eliminate significant confusion upon arrival.

For those going the DIY route, whether by bus or train, the route planning website e-podroznik. pl is a valuable resource. Frequent buses depart for Oświęcim from Kraków’s main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18, L-4); most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance (called ‘Oświęcim Muzeum’), but not all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end up at the Oświęcim bus station which is at the other end of town.

The journey takes 1hr 20-40mins and costs 14zł.

Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between Kraków and Oświęcim, with a journey time of 1hr 45mins 2hrs 15mins and a cost of about 9zł; note, however, that early trains to Oświęcim can be eerily crowded, particularly on weekends. The Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 24-29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3zł) from the nearest kiosk.

Free museum buses regularly shuttle visitors between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15zł. Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 31 50 77) can take you back to Kraków from either camp - a group of eight would pay about 30-40zł/person.

ALSO IN OŚWIĘCIM OŚWIĘCIM JEWISH MUSEUM & SYNAGOGUE If you have more time to spend in Oświęcim, head to this historic synagogue (one of three surviving in the centre of Oświęcim) for more information on the town’s Jewish heritage, including a permanent exhibition on Jewish life there before World War II. Located near Oświęcim’s market square 3km from the Auschwitz museum, the centre offers specially tailored programmes for those who plan their visits in advance, and there’s a cafe here with a sweet roof terrace in the warmer months.QPl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 510 78 11 99, www.ajcf.org. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket 15zł, kids 6 and under free.

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Auschwitz The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering of individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory of the Roma (gypsy) people who perished. The tour concludes with the gruesome gas chamber and crematoria, whose two furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in 1947 stands outside.

Zyklon B.

Photo by Alana de Haan

AUSCHWITZ I Your tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of the infamous ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ (‘Work Makes You Free’) entrance gate. [The original sign was actually made by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on display after it was stolen in December 2009 and found in pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.] From the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads past the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played as prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest inside Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality behind the world’s most notorious concentration camp is given, with exhibits including original architectural sketches for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination and mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven tonnes of human hair once destined for German factories, which does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity of the Nazi death machine.

Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some of which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most affectingly, children’s shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of prisoners with collections of photographs, artists’ drawings and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural depicting two playful kittens.

AUSCHWITZ II - BIRKENAU Having completed the long tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the opportunity to visit Auschwitz II – Birkenau, however it’s here that the impact of Auschwitz can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope and solitude of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau contained 300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that covered 175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Conference on January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen rubberstamped the wholesale extermination of European Jews, it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all the Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held there in 1944.

The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly into gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour lived in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation, disease and exhaustion accounted for countless lives. With the Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to hide all traces of their crimes. Today little remains, with all gas chambers having been dynamited and living quarters levelled. Climb the tower of the main gate for a full impression of the complex’s size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks used as a quarantine area, while across on the left hand side lie numerous brick barracks which were home to the penal colony and also the women’s camp. At the far end of the camp lie the mangled remains of the crematoria, as well as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a comparably brief guided tour of the camp, visitors are left to wander and reflect on their own before catching the return bus to Auschwitz I.

Block 11, otherwise known as ‘The Death Block’, is arguably the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the ‘Wall of Death’ - against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS - has been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his groundbreaking visit in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic cellars of Block 11 the Nazi’s conducted their experiments with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of Father Maksymilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death after offering his life to save another inmate, is marked with a small memorial, and tiny ‘standing cells’ measuring 90 x 90 cm - where up to four prisoners were held for indefinite amounts of time – remain intact.

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iyp.me/krakow

Tarnów

Tarnów Old Town. Photo by Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnów Tourist Information Centre

Eighty kilometres east of Kraków lies the charming and hospitable city of Tarnów. Małopolska’s second city by size, Tarnów is absolutely dwarfed by Kraków but features many of the same cultural and architectural charms without the crushing crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd mentality that unfortunately come along with a tourist market the size of Kraków’s. On the contrary, Tarnów offers tourists the comforts of a small town with a long history and the cultural intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In addition to a well-preserved medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious Cathedral, a cute market square and Town Hall, and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnów visitors will discover several unique and worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical monuments at every turn. Those with a special interest in Tarnów’s Jewish heritage will still find traces of it today in the city’s small, but evocative Jewish district and large Jewish Cemetery. While the town’s nightlife may not have the sizzle of Kraków, there are still plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants where you’ll find it easy to meet friendly local folks who are proud of their city and eager to present a good impression to foreigners. All told it’s enough to easily warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as Tarnów also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth of other nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at Dębno, the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia. You’ll find more information on Tarnów and all the surrounding area has to offer on our website (tarnow.inyourpocket.com), but make sure you also pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information Office when you arrive and pick up a copy of IYP’s special Tarnów miniguide. iyp.me/polandblog

WHAT TO SEE CATHEDRAL Dating from the 14th century with major additions and rebuilds in the 15th and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and one of the oldest brick buildings in the city, must rate as one of the most impressive parish churches in Poland. Of note is the 16th-century portal, the impressive several-metre-long monuments to the Tarnowski and Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary paintings and the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of reference when getting lost in one of Tarnów’s many rambling back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident, including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on the southern side of the building, and a large monument of Pope John Paul II outside the entrance.QPl. Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 45 01, www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl.

Open 10:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 17:00; Sun 13:00 - 15:00, 16:00 17:00. No visiting during mass please.

GETTING TO TARNÓW Only 80km east of Kraków, Tarnów is most easily reached by road - a hassle-free drive down the new A4 highway that takes less than an hour. Buses from Kraków to Tarnów run 2-3 times each hour, with the first leaving as early as 05:55 and the last bus back to Kraków departing at 21:00; the journey takes between 1hr 15mins and 2hrs. Trains to Tarnów also run every 30-60 minutes from Kraków, with a journey time of between 45 and 85 minutes depending on whether you take a local or express train.

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Tarnów TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE One of the most helpful offices in all of PL, make this your first port of call on arrival. Here (and on their multi-lingual website) you’ll find a wide range of free information on Tarnów and the surrounding region, free internet (browse away), bicycle rental, luggage lockers, souvenirs, and there’s even accommodation available upstairs. If you’re interested in a gadgetled tour, there’s the Tarnów Wooden Architecture App, an audio tour, and a GPS guide. The friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic English-speaking staff can give you whatever additional information or advice you can’t find here, so don’t be shy.QRynek 7, tel. (+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.travel. Open 08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

RYNEK & THE OLD TOWN

Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls and defensive towers), Tarnów’s exemplary Old Town began life in the 14th century, although most of what now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is the Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four sides by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from the 16th to the 18th century.

At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off with an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which Tarnów’s ‘hejnał’ – a short traditional melody – is played every day at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin, the Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good investigation, and includes a fairly well-preserved Jewish quarter to the east, one remaining defensive tower and a pleasant pedestrian street, hugging its northern edge and featuring several interesting buildings as well as a number of monuments.

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ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM As well as highlighting local ethnographic traditions, this better than average collection includes a large celebration of Roma (Gypsy) culture, which is allegedly the only such collection in Europe. A truly fascinating, if slightly dated, exhibition tracing Roma culture in Poland from its beginnings in the 15th century to their fate at the hands of the Nazis and beyond, the three rooms that make up the exhibition include some excellent maps, models, costumes and photographs; with about 350 Roma living in the Tarnów area, their culture is still very much alive locally. In the museum’s back garden you’ll find several traditionally painted gypsy caravans.Qul. Krakowska 10, tel. (+48) 14 622 06 25, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 16zł; Sun free for the permanent exhibition.

N THE JEWISH CEMETERY A 10-minute walk north of the Old Town, this cemetery was established in the early 1580s and is one of the oldest and largest in Poland. With several thousand gravestones, almost all of them untouched by the Nazis, the Jewish Cemetery is a haunting albeit necessary part of any visit to Tarnów. Seriously overgrown in places, some areas near the main entrance can still be easily reached, and there are even signs in English marking a few of the graveyard’s more eminent souls. Near the entrance is a large memorial to the Jews of Tarnów, built from one of the columns of the city’s destroyed New Synagogue. The cemetery’s original gates are now in Washington’s Holocaust Museum, and their replacements are kept firmly locked, however it is possible to borrow a key by leaving a 20zł deposit at the Tourist Information Centre at Rynek 7.QJunction of ul. Słoneczna and ul. Matki Bożej Fatimskiej.

THE OLD SYNAGOGUE BIMAH Between ul. Żydowska (Jewish Street) and Plac Rybny (Fish Square) stood The Old Synagogue, Tarnów’s primary place of worship for 45% of its population when war broke out in 1939. The first synagogue at this site dates back to some time before 1582; the frequent victim of fires, the wooden structure was finally rebuilt out of brick in 1670. On November 8th, 1939, the Old Synagogue was destroyed by the Nazis and later demolished; all that remains today is the brick ‘bimah’ - a four-pillared podium iyp.me/krakow

Tarnów

from which the Torah was read. In 1987 a roof was placed over the bimah to protect it, and the area around it has since been renovated into an appealing public space which hosts concerts during the annual Galician Shtetl - Jewish Memory Days (June 14-17, 2018). Today the bimah is the most visible and perhaps the most important monument to Tarnów’s Jewish heritage.QSkwer Starej Synagogi.

TOWN HALL MUSEUM (RATUSZ) Worth a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this extraordinary collection over two floors includes glass, porcelain, silver, weaponry, and the most extensive collection of 18th-century Sarmatian portraits in the country. Sarmatism, if you’re wondering, was a beguiling infusion of lifestyle, culture and ideology that predominated the Polish nobility from the 17th to 19th century. Based on the mistaken and rather amusing belief that Poles were descended from a loose confederation of ancient Iranian tribes, Polish Sarmatism evolved over the centuries from a set of values based on pacifism into a full-blown warrior philosophy that endorsed horseback riding, outrageous behaviour and a propensity for lavish Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar moustaches.QRynek 1, tel. (+48) 14 692 90 00, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Last entrance 30mins before closing. Museum admission 8/5zł, family ticket 16zł, Sun free for permanent exhibition. U­N iyp.me/polandblog

WHERE TO EAT STARA ŁAŹNIA Though we’re anything but fans, when Polish celebrity restaurateur Magda Gessler called out the state of Tarnów’s former Jewish bath house (mikvah) as deplorable, we were in complete agreement. With an unkempt facade covered in tacky advertising for the businesses inside (including a cheap Polish restaurant), it was time for a ‘revolution’ and Gessler’s travelling cooking show (Kuchenne Rewolucje) provided just that. Overhauled and re-imagined as Stara Łaźnia (Old Bathhouse), the restaurant now pays homage to the past with a menu of traditional Galician and Polish Jewish dishes that offer a taste of pre-war Tarnów. Choose from ala carte dishes like cholent (traditional Jewish stew), latkes with goulash, and duck pate with halva and cranberries, or go for Miss Magda’s signature 6-course set menu for 85zł. On the walls are black and white photos of old Tarnów, and a fine exhibit of paintings by Miny Nath (a Jewish artist from Tarnów), while other touches include candlelit menorahs, Israeli scarves and klezmer music playing subtly in the background (watch for occasional concerts). Tasty, tasteful and dignified, this is exactly what should have been done with this space long ago, and it’s certainly the most interesting dining destination in Tarnów.

QPl. Więźniów Oświęcimia 1, tel. (+48) 14 692 00 39, www.laznia.tarnow.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (14-42zł). T­6­V­E­S­W February – March 2018

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Leisure

Tired of stale obwarzanki (p.50)? Make your own fresh at the Obwarzanek Museum (p.126)!

While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably the number one local leisure activity, our Leisure section is geared more for those looking for outdoor activities on a beautiful day, or how to stay active on an ugly one. Generally, Cracovians are spoiled with recreation opportunities, if only for the fact that the Old Town is a joy to stroll around when the sun is out and features several unique green spaces, particularly the Planty (p.76) and Błonia (D/E/F-6).

Kraków’s unique and mysterious earthwork mounds also provide interesting outdoor sightseeing opportunities near the city centre - check out Krakus Mound in Podgórze (p.108) or Kościuszko Mound in Salwator (p.84); or go deep into the woods of Las Wolski to find Piłsudski Mound, as well as the Zoo (p.126).

BOWLING & BILLIARDS BOWLING PLAC NOWY 1 Located in the basement of a modern building right on Plac Nowy, this is the nicest bowling alley in Kraków. With only six lanes, the space is intimate rather, so reservations are wise. The bar puts an emphasis on regional Polish microbrews, and you can order food from the restaurant upstairs. Prices for one lane for one hour (max 8 people) are 59-99zł depending on the day of the week and time of day.QK‑8, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 11, www. placnowy1.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.

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THE STAGE Kraków’s most atmospheric billiards club, The Stage is much more than just a pool hall and bar. In the evenings this laid-back hangout often hosts events including concerts, cabarets, and karaoke with a live band as locals rack ‘em up on the seven handsome billiards tables in front of the street-side windows. Conference and company events also organised.QI‑4, ul. Łobzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681 63 85, www.thestage.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00. Cost of a table ranges between 15-23zł/hr depending on the time of day.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS GO JUMP The trampoline park craze has reached Kraków with this large jumping-centre en route to Nowa Huta, which boasts a multi-trampoline main arena, foam block pit, zones for playing dodgeball or shooting hoops, and classes including parkour and trampoline fitness (drop-in fee 35-39zł). The minimum age is four years old, and the maximum is whenever your knees give out. To get here by public transportation, take tram number 1 or 14 from ‘Plac Wszystkich Świętych’ to ‘Centralna;’ Go Jump will be on your right.Qul. Centralna 41A, tel. (+48) 533 39 92 45, www.krakow.gojump.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 33zł/ hr plus 5zł for (mandatory) anti-slip socks, students with valid ID 19zł/hr Mon-Thu 10:00-15:00, groups of at least ten people 23zł/hr; slightly cheaper if you book online. iyp.me/krakow

Leisure KRAKÓW IN 15 MINUTES This unique presentation gives you a crash course on the history of Kraków, its legends and tales. Essentially a recorded narration with images and animations projected over an impressive 5x4 metre 3D scale model of the city centre, the visual effects will keep your kids engaged, but the info may come a bit too fast for them to keep up. Adults should get a good grounding in the city’s history and highlights, but the narrative is a bit disjointed as it leaps forward in time, and between trivia, anecdotes and hard facts. Available in Polish, English, German, French, Spanish, Russian and Italian, there’s a specific schedule online, but they keep it flexible - if no one else is there they will screen it in the language of your choosing; or you’ll just have to wait 15mins, during which time you can check out the fantastic gallery of photos by Przemek Czaja.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 78, www.krakowin15minutes.pl.

Open 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 12/7zł, kids under 5 free.

KRAKÓW WATER PARK The huge indoor pool complex includes 800m of water slides, dragon and pirate play areas, massage fountains, climbing walls, wave machines, and other in-water activities, Probably the thing your kid will remember most about Kraków, you might not have such a bad time yourself with access to jacuzzis, saunas (1.90zł) and a pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little terrors dunk each other. Prices are 39/35zł for 2hrs and 61/48zł for day access (including sauna). Note that on weekends this place is absolutely packed.QL‑1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 91, www.parkwodny.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

LOST SOULS ALLEY - DEADLY WALK Building off the terrifying success of their original house of horrors at ul. Floriańska 6 (J-5, open 12:00 - 20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 21:00), the outfit behind Lost Souls Alley has opened a second nightmare asylum in the longabandoned and thoroughly creepy basements of Tytano - a former tobacco factory just outside the Old Town. If ‘haunted house’ makes you think of campy Scooby Doo creatures and jump scares, this is not that kind of haunted house, but rather one that awakens your basic instinct of fear with claustrophobic and psychologically demented situations inspired by modern horror films and thrillers.

In groups of 2-6 people, you’ll be locked in the factory basements and have to work together to solve puzzles in order to escape through a series of 16 rooms and corridors. Doing so typically takes 40mins, reservations are wise, and we recommend it for anyone 15 and over who wants one of the most memorable scares of their life.QG‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 666 97 79 67, www.deadlywalk.com. Open 16:00 - 21:00, Fri 15:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

Prices range from 27-35zł/per person depending on how many are in your group. iyp.me/polandblog

Niebieski Art Hotel

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Kraków - Salwator ul.Flisacka 3 tel. 12 297 40 04 www.vanillaspa.pl biurospa@vanillaspa.pl

Vanil a Spa

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CINEMAS Don’t worry, unlike places such as Russia (ahem), Polish cinemas show international releases in their original language with Polish subtitles. Be warned, however, that most animated films - including those for adults - will be dubbed. Enjoy the show!

ARS CINEMA Located in a historic building whose history as a cinema dates back to 1916, ARS has survived several attempts at closure to remain arguably Kraków’s most popular art house cinema with 5 separate salons showing a range of commercial and ambitious independent films.

QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12 421 41 99, www.ars.pl. Tickets 20-22zł.

CINEMA CITY GALERIA KAZIMIERZ Your best bet in the city centre for Hollywood blockbusters.QL‑8, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.cinema-city.pl. Tickets 18-33zł.

KINO POD BARANAMI One of Kraków’s most important art cinemas, housed in a historic building on the corner of the market square.

Three projection rooms show the latest entries from world film festivals.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 27, tel. (+48) 12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.pl. Tickets 2022zł; Monday only 12.90zł.

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Leisure ICE SKATING

Wolnica Ice Rink

JORDAN PARK ICE RINK From mid-December Kraków’s largest man-made glacier will again appear inside Jordan Park, with a main 1000m2 frozen patch, a separate 200m2 space for little ones to take their first steps on the ice (and helmets to rent for paranoid parents), and a 150m ‘ice alley.’ The Organic Coffee Cafe will also be nearby for those in need of a warm-up.QF‑6, Jordan Park, entrance from Al. 3-Maja 11A, tel. (+48) 697 00 83 40, www.lodowisko-krakowskieblonia.pl.

Open 09:00 - 21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 12/10zł for 75mins ice time (each additional 15mins 2zł); family ticket 36zł. Skate rental 9zł.

WOLNICA ICE RINK This new seasonal attraction under the Kazimierz Town Hall offers 800 square metres of ice, helmets for kids and small sleds for those too young to skate on their own. Open rather late, DJs take the decks on Friday and Saturday nights.QK‑9, Plac Wolnica, tel. (+48) 505 68 84 54, www.biurofestiwalowe.pl. Open 10:00 16:00, 17:00 - 22:00 until February 25th. Admission 5zł for 45 minutes. Skate rental 5zł.

KRAKÓW ZOO First opened in 1929, Kraków’s Zoo offers visitors the chance to see nearly 1500 animals of almost 300 species, while still remaining very manageable in size at only 20 hectares. Most of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting of Wolski Forest and there’s surprisingly little to get depressed about. Among the rare, exotic and endangered species you’ll see are Indian elephants, pygmy hippopotami, South American sea lions, Humboldt penguins, giraffes, jaguars, camels, dwarf caimans and a surprisingly impressive array of brightly-plumed pheasants (our favourite). There’s also a petting zoo, and some unavoidable snack bars. Bus 134 leaves every 20mins on weekdays and 10mins on weekends from ‘Cracovia Stadion’ (ul. Józefa Kałuży, G-6) and drops you off at the entrance.Qul. Kasy Oszczędności Miasta Krakowa 14, tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00; last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 18/10zł.

126 Kraków In Your Pocket

OBWARZANEK MUSEUM Obwarzanki - the parboiled dough rings which date back over 600 years, are synonymous with Kraków, and beloved by both its people and pigeons. If you can’t get enough of these chewy circular snacks, learn more about them at this interactive educational museum. Discover what makes them unique, see how they’re made firsthand and even bake your own. Primarily occupied with school groups during the week, on Fri, Sat and Sun the museum opens to the general public with obwarzanki workshops conducted in Polish at 10:00, 12:00 and 16:00, and in English at 12:00. Each participant leaves with their very own obwarzanek to cherish forever (external conditions may apply) or chow down on immediately. During the rest of the week groups can still visit if arranged in advance, and anyone can drop in to their small cafe/shop for a coffee and a bagel.QJ‑4, ul. Paderewskiego 4, tel. (+48) 12 357 73 22, www.muzeumobwarzanka.com. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 17:30. Admission 19/16zł, children under 3 free.

PAPUGARNIA AMAZONIA This small parrot aviary on the market square offers the chance to observe, interact with, and even feed upwards of 40 brightly coloured, beautiful birds from over 15 different species, including cockatoos, parakeets and macaws. The birds have free range of the place and quite enjoy landing on guests - protective clothing (shit happens) is provided for free, including head covers and arm sleeves, because the birds will use your body as a perch; if you aren’t comfortable with large birds landing on your back or head, don’t enter. Overall, this is a pretty cool experience for kids, though we wouldn’t recommend it for those under 6. Visits are limited to 20 minutes, with a finite number of guests granted entry every 20 minutes past the hour.QI‑5, Rynek 23/3, tel. (+48) 502 79 94 95, www.papugarnia.edu.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 15/10zł, family ticket 38zł, children under 4 free.

POLONIA WAX MUSEUM Surely the inevitable consequence of being a highly successful tourist destination (we don’t know how else to put it nicely), this kitsch ‘museum’ on the market square has proven popular enough to spawn a second location nearby.

As such the collection has been reorganised into two thematic ‘routes’ - here on the market square the ‘historical route’ leads you through the interwar period, WWII, the 70s, 80s, 90s and up to modern times, with sculptures of dozens of Polish heroes, plus American presidents, the British Royal Family, Hitler, Putin and several Popes; at ul. Floriańska 32 (admission 25/15zł) the ‘entertainment route’ offers the opportunity to snap selfies with such celebs and cultural icons as Marilyn Monroe, Shrek, Spiderman and Harry Potter.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 34, tel. (+48) 502 79 94 45, www.poloniawaxmuseum.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. Admission 30/20zł, family ticket (2+2) 60zł, children under 7 free, groups over 6: 15zł per person, groups over 12: 10zł per person. U iyp.me/krakow

Leisure SPA & BEAUTY CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE Improve blood and limphatic circulation, release physical and mental tension, strengthen the immune system, improve joint flexibility and remove toxins from your body with an authentic Thai massage, performed solely by highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses, oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder and head massages, and more.

Receive a 10% discount when you present In Your Pocket.

Also at ul. Grodzka 27 (I-6, tel. +48 530 500 510).QI‑6, ul.

Grodzka 27, tel. (+48) 530 50 05 10, www.tajskimasaz. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Massages 100-300zł.

COPERNICUS SPA BY L’OCCITANE Whether you’re a guest or not, you can still enjoy some of the exquisite amenities of Hotel Copernicus, including the exclusive spa in the hotel’s gorgeous Gothic cellars. In partnership with elite French cosmetics firm L’Occitane, the experience begins as soon as you enter and the scent hits your nose. Wellness treatments are offered for men and women, singles and pairs, including an array of facials and full body massages. Signing on for a spa treatment gets you free access to the suana and swimming pool as well (otherwise off limits to non-guests)QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 22, www. copernicus.hotel.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

THAI SMILE MASSAGE Treat yourself to a range of therapeutic Thai massages performed by certified masseuses that will leave you feeling energised and balanced. If you’ve never had an authentic Thai massage, this is your chance - it’s an incredible experience, and can be a fun thing to do with a friend, partner or family member. Most massages are done in loose, non-constraining clothes to make you as comfortable as possible, and incorporate aspects of Thai traditional medicine, acupressure, yoga and even Buddhism. Give it a try and discover the wonder of getting an invigorating full body workout without doing a thing.

QJ‑8, ul. Krakowska 3 lok. 1, tel. (+48) 531 90 59 65, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

VANILLA SPA This luxurious spa in the centre of the five-star Niebieski Hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your skin through a series of peels and masks using top of the line cosmetics and munch on organic ‘bio snacks’ courtesy of the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam bath, and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to have their experts create your own personal care programme.

QF‑8, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. iyp.me/polandblog

www.Thai-Smile.pl

TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE

+48 531 905 965 Kraków, Krakowska 3/1

10% off on 1h massage with this guide

TAO THERAPY Escape to this massage therapy centre in Podgórze and immerse yourself in a space where you can let go of your stress, relax your body and reinvigorate your senses. Tao offers a range of traditional massages and body treatments, including traditional Thai massage, hot lava stone massage, hot herbal compress massage, facials, foot reflexology and aroma therapy massages.

Treat yourself or your partner to some TLC by expert masseuses from Thailand and the Philippines.QK‑10, ul. Józefińska 4/3 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 695 66 69 99, www.taospa.pl/en. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

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Shopping

Visit the renowned Blazko jewellery workshop and gallery for some local colour you can take home with you.

While Kraków can hardly be considered a shoppers’ paradise in the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery.

Areas of note include Kazimerz’s ulica Józefa (K-8), which is lined with galleries, and the market on Plac Nowy (K-8).

Meanwhile, the Cloth Hall (open roughly 10:00 - 20:00, I-5) in the middle of the market square is obvious for typical local souvenirs. For the generic western experience you can hit one of the shopping malls we list, however throughout this section we’ve made a concentrated effort to focus not on recognised, international brands and franchises, but unique, home-grown businesses; so we encourage you to put your money where their mouth is.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but note that beginning from March 2018 a new law that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland goes into effect. To be phased in gradually, the law initially allows normal trading days on the first and last Sundays of each month, while forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, souvenir shops and open-air markets. The Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep on those Sunday when trade is allowed. The first Sundays when the shopping ban will be enforced are the following: March 11, 18 April 08, 15, 22 128 Kraków In Your Pocket

AMBER & JEWELLERY BLAZKO Don’t fancy amber? Not a problem. Head down to Kazimierz’s artistic Józefa Street and drop in on Grzegorz Błażko - a Polish artist and designer, well-known and admired for his unique, colourful, high quality jewellery.

Working in silver, brass, synthetic materials and acrylic, Błażko creates beautiful, highly sought-after rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings and more, in which you might notice touches of Hundertwasser, Miro and Klimt.

Quite a character himself, his store is also his workshop, so a visit is an intimate encounter with the artist at his craft.

QK‑8, ul. Józefa 11, tel. (+48) 579 05 64 56, www.blazko. pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

LILOU A Polish jewellery brand which has become popular across the world for their customised jewellery - primarily pendants, charms and chains - which can be engraved onsite with whatever special message you are able to dream up. Glamorous but not intimidating, Lilou jewellery is made of 14 karat gold, 925 silver or 23 karat plated-gold, and their Kraków boutique is staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist you with your decision.QJ‑5, ul. Św.

Tomasza 27, tel. (+48) 12 312 13 93, www.lilouparis. com. Open 11:00 - 19:00.

SYNCRET This outstanding shop specialises in vintage and modern fine jewellery, made with diamonds and natural stones. The selection is carefully curated to only include truly exceptional iyp.me/krakow

Shopping diamonds and stones, all of which come with valuation documents, can be made into rings matching the customer’s exact specifications, and even resized for free at a later date.

Compare Syncret with other stores in town and you’ll quickly see that the quality of the stones, and also the personalised customer service they offer, is a cut above the competition.

QI‑6, ul. Bracka 8, tel. (+48) 797 65 70 80, www.syncret. com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. WORLD OF AMBER Like a mosquito encased in golden resin, amber is inextricable from the history of Poland and Kraków. Baltic amber is the most desired of all, and tourist-laden Kraków’s location on the Amber Route means you’ve got one of the best selections in the world, crafted by master jewellers.

Truth in advertising, this Schubert showcase shop really is a wondrous world of amber, with items ranging from rings and pendants to dragons and chess sets. Also at ul.

Floriańska 13 and 22 (J-5), and ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Hotel, H-7).QJ‑6, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 14, www. worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

DEKOR ART

ART & DESIGN DEKOR ART If you’re not familiar with Bolesławiec - Poland’s wellloved folk ceramic brand, head here straightaway to get introduced. Crammed full of colourful tableware with simple, hand-painted and highly-recognisable folk motifs, this bargain shop is sure to help you make someone on your list happy.QI‑5, ul. Sławkowska 11, tel. (+48) 515 45 29 69, www.dekorbuy.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:15 - 17:00.

FORUM DESIGNU This large, spacious showroom for Polish interior design and home accessories is one of the most fashionable places in town. Though some European firms are represented, the emphasis here is on unique local design using sustainable production methods, and the result is an impressive, not-at-all petite sales boutique. An added bonus is the attached Forum Mody fashion showroom, and together they organise numerous design fairs, workshops and other events throughout the year.QG‑6, ul. Focha 1 (Hotel Cracovia), tel. (+48) 604 05 64 77, www.forumdesignu. pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

GALERIA LUELUE This charming photography gallery/shop embraces a pre-war sepia-toned perspective on Kraków through old photographs, paintings, postcards and posters, offset slightly by more cheeky graphic designs from contemporary artists. With an emphasis on early urbania, architecture, transportation and romance, this is a great place to pick up high-quality reproductions of nostalgic photographs printed on canvas, or even on linen shoulder bags. They’ll even print your own images and designs if you upload them on their website.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 22, tel. (+48) 728 55 10 24, www.luelue.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. iyp.me/polandblog

POLISH GIFT GUIDE ALCOHOL: Vodka (see p.26) is a given and alcohol shops are in plentiful supply, but try the flavourful infusions at Szambelan (p.131), or miód pitny (mead) if the straight stuff isn’t to your taste.

AMBER: Though far from the Baltic, Kraków was a major stop on the Amber Road and World of Amber (p.129) has several locations offering a huge selection of fine jewellery made from fossilised resin.

BOLESŁAWIEC POTTERY: The hand-painted folk patterns of Poland’s popular ceramic brand are beloved internationally and make a great gift for anyone with a kitchen. Head to Dekor Art (p.129).

ART & DESIGN: PL has a rich tradition of graphic art, and Kraków’s Poster Gallery (p.130) - is the place to discover it. For cool communist-inspired cloths visit Pan Tu Nie Stał (p.132), while the huge Forum Designu complex (p.129) is full of fashion and interior design by stylish Polish brands.

BOARDGAMES: Boardgames are back in vogue and the award-winning Polish game Kolejka (p.130) is a fun way to experience communist-era reality. Also, while perusing the Cloth Hall keep your eyes peeled for unique hand-carved three-player chess sets.

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Shopping ‘KOLEJKA’ BOARD GAME

POSTER GALLERY (GALERIA PLAKATU) Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art for film and theatre. Here you can browse binders of hundreds of designs for different plays, various propaganda campaigns, and alternative film posters for your favourite flicks that you never knew existed. Many are in stock and many more available to order online. They make fantastic gifts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying a stack of unusual postcards. Now a second, larger location with exhibition space in the former Cracovia Hotel (ul. Focha 1, G-6).

QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www. cracowpostergallery.com. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

If you’ve spent any time in Poland, you know that queuing is a bit of an art in this country, if not a national pastime. Well thanks to the Institute of National Remembrance, it’s also the subject of a marvelous board game. Combining humour, history and nostalgia with slick design and clever, exciting game play, Kolejka (‘Queue’) has become one of the most popular and award-winning board games in Poland.

SZPEJE This small boutique specialises in vintage Polish design and antiques from the communist era. For fans of 60s, 70s and 80s PRL design - which is now enjoying a comeback - this shop is a treasure trove of retro furniture, pottery, glassware, toys, records, hi-fi, posters, books and more. Most importantly, everything in the shop is original, not reproductions.

Certainly this vintage swag has never looked better than it does today, detached from the economic desperation of the era it was produced in. Contemporary Polish society is ready to embrace communist design, so check it out. Also a second store aptly located in Nowa Huta in the Museum of Poland Under the Communist Regime (open 10:00 - 17:00; closed Mon).QK‑8, ul. Józefa 9, tel. (+48) 733 20 00 74, www.szpeje.com. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

For 2-5 players, the object of the game is rather simple: each player has a family and a shopping list, all the items on which must be acquired in order to complete a rather ordinary task such as ‘getting the kids ready for camp’ or ‘preparing for first communion;’ the first player to complete their list wins the game.

However, this game takes place in the historical context of 1982 Poland and, due to shortages, basic goods are limited and difficult to acquire. Game play entails players placing their family members in queues outside various shops and then using a combination of strategy and luck to slyly maneuver their pawns to the front of the line when the shops open for business. Of course, players don’t necessarily know when or which shops will be receiving a delivery, nor the quantity or specific products – all of which are actual brand items produced in PL during the communist era. Play is made more lively by the absolutely absurd but sadly real strategies employed to manipulate the queue, including borrowing someone else’s baby to get to the front of the queue or losing your position in line for badmouthing the authorities. The black market is another aspect of play where needed items may be available for barter.

First designed and released in 2011 as an educational tool, Kolejka proved so popular that a multilingual edition was soon produced in English, German, Spanish, Russian, Polish and Japanese. In addition to being a “history lesson in a box,” Kolejka is also wildly fun to play and makes a uniquely Polish gift or souvenir. It retails for about 80zł and is available in most local game stores, as well as online from our own IYP Shop: iyp.me/kolejka. Standing in line was never this much fun.

130 Kraków In Your Pocket

BOOKS IN ENGLISH AUSTERIA Situated in the historical High Synagogue, Austeria is the largest Jewish bookstore in Kraków, offering literature, history, guide books, blank books, posters and more in a number of languages, plus music CDs and tourist information. Also a second location in the Popper Synagogue (ul. Szeroka 16, K-8).QK‑8, ul. Józefa 38 (High Synagogue), tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89, www.austeria.pl.

Open 09:30 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 19:00.

MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAFÉ The best English-language bookstore in Central Europe, owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With books on all subjects and specialising in Polish, East European and Jewish literature in English, here you’ll also find recent English language periodicals (store copies) to peruse over coffee and a slice of pie, or even a glass of wine. Stocked with remaindered books from the States, the selection is surprisingly good, and the prices are the best you’ll find anywhere. This legendary establishment has been long-running but constantly needs and deserves support. Still if you’re on a budget you can trade the novel you finished on the train for credit towards a new one. Also look for their bakery nearby at ul. Smoleńsk 17 (H-6), and now a new bistro in Kazimierz (K-8).QH‑6, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. iyp.me/krakow

Shopping FOOD & ALCOHOL DELIKATESY 13 Located in the basement of Kraków’s nicest, most central shopping mall, this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range of high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties of Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking oils and balsamic vinaigrettes, as well as delicious locally-made preservative free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes are also made daily. The ideal place to go if you’re planning an intimate dinner party, Delikatesy 13 is packed with outstanding goods, and the adjacent wine shop offers a top selection.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 17:00.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App KARMELLO The chocolate shop to end all chocolate shops, Karmello is Kraków’s most exquisite spot for indulging the sweet tooth. Several stunning display cases practically sparkle with over 50 varieties of exclusively-crafted chocolates, plus truffles, chocolate bars, candied chocolate-dipped fruit and other specialties. Perfect for picking up a nice gift in a pinch, or get them personalised in advance.

So amazing it must be...Italian? Belgian? Swiss? Nope, Karmello actually hails from Bielsko-Biała - about 90mins southwest of Kraków in Silesia. Also at ul. Floriańska 40 (J-5).QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 03 72, www.karmello.pl. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Mon 06:30 - 22:00.

REGIONALNE ALKOHOLE Kraków’s best, most diverse alcohol shop - ideal for an education in Polish vodkas and the exploding Polish craft beer movement. The selection of mostly-Polish brews reaches up to 300(!) and there are literally hundreds of vodkas and other quality Polish spirits to whet your palette, plus a knowledgeable staff to make deciding all the easier.

QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 28A, tel. (+48) 533 59 33 35, www. regionalnealkohole.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.

SZAMBELAN A huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish absinthes decanted from enormous Erlenmeyer flasks. The exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they can ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and stuffing it in your luggage (or just strolling the Planty... wait, no). Sample first, sample often.QI‑6, ul. Gołębia 2 (entrance from ul. Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. iyp.me/polandblog

SAVE UP TO 16%! www.globalblue.com February – March 2018

131

Shopping OPEN-AIR MARKETS

MUSIC & RECORDS PAUL’S BOUTIQUE Kraków’s best record store for vinyl enthusiasts, at Paul’s the records are well-protected, clearly labelled and priced and easy to browse. Despite being a tiny store, unlike any other music shop in town, there are actually a few listening stations here as well. With not a compact disc in sight, find a decent selection of used classics, but the emphasis is on new records from the 90s to today, especially hip-hop, indie and electronic music.

QJ‑8, ul. Miodowa 4/7, tel. (+48) 794 99 98 08, www. paulsboutique.store. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 17:00. Closed Sun.

PLAC NOWY This historic square was a Jewish market in the pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher slaughterhouse. Today you’ll still find butcher shops inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In the open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse produce and junk are sold daily, but in the mornings you never know what you’ll find: Saturdays are junk/ antiques, on Sundays it’s all clothing, while Friday mornings it’s a full-on pigeon fair from 05:30 - 09:00.

Other markets begin around 07:00 and generally end by early to mid-afternoon, depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns into one of the best drinking destinations in town, lined with atmospheric bars.

QK‑8, www.placnowy.pl.

PLAC TARGOWY UNITARG Open every day with everything from fruit, flowers and produce to pirated DVDs, dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches, on Sundays this popular outdoor market becomes a sprawling full-blown flea market of Old World antiques, Catholic icons, village detritus, vinyl records, war memorabilia, mismatched shoes, stolen bikes and pretty much anything you can dream of at negotiable prices. Different vendors set their own hours, but on weekends most are here shortly after dawn and packing up anytime between 14:00 and sunset. At night on Plac Targowy you’ll find two 24hour alcky shops and the best grilled kiełbasa in town, sold from a van (p.44).QK‑6, ul. Grzegórzecka, tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.krakow.pl.

STARY KLEPARZ A tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered marketplace just north of the Barbican offers bargain prices and the best selection in the city for local produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices, socks, sweaters and whatever oddball commodities are the order of the day during your visit.QJ‑4, Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32, www. starykleparz.com. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00.

132 Kraków In Your Pocket

FASHION & ACCESSORIES CHORĄŻY CAPS & HATS Maybe you aren’t aware, but Polish old man hats are surprisingly stylish and this family shop is where to get one. Affectionately known as ‘the Hat Guy,’ give Józef the hatmaker a head and he’ll hand you a handsome, perfectly fitting hat. Bring in your own fabric and he’ll even custom make one for you. With Józef’s name and his shop’s Cracovian address sewn into each one, these hats make a great gift and keepsake, as well as being evidence of a world that is rapidly vanishing. And they’re a bargain. Józef doesn’t speak English, but there shouldn’t be much mystery between the two of you; it’s not like you’re trying to draft legislation - it’s a hat, he’s a hat guy.

QJ‑9, ul. Krakowska 35A, tel. (+48) 608 28 26 31, www. czapkichorazy.prv.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. PAN TU NIE STAŁ This Łódź-based family-owned business blossomed out of a blog obsessed with Polish communist-era design, typography and cultural artefacts, which soon developed into a design firm manufacturing contemporary hipster apparel inspired by PRL graphics and culture. Clever, trendy and tongue-firmly-in-cheek, choose from t-shirts featuring the faces of Stanisław Lem or Pan Kleks, fanny packs that say ‘Cześć’ (Hi), hats that say ‘bajzel’ (shambles), Soviet nostalgia photo albums, handleless mugs, shoulder bags, posters, postcards and more. In terms of local design that is useful, affordable and overtly Polish, it doesn’t get any better than this.QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 9, tel. (+48) 667 43 26 71, www.pantuniestal.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

ROCK SHOP You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe, and is there anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than a Hard Rock t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Kraków’ tee to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St. Mary’s Basilica. Classic white may cost 100zł, but the memory of buying it - priceless.QJ‑5, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/ krakow. Open 10:00 - 24:00. iyp.me/krakow

Shopping SHOPPING MALLS GALERIA KAZIMIERZ Originally opened in 2005 and recently refreshed, Galeria Kazimierz is Kraków’s most likeable shopping centre, boasting over 160 retail units including EMPiK, Guess, H&M, Reserved, United Colors of Benetton, Big Star and Zara, jewellers W. Kruk, YES and Swarovski, plus plenty of food options. For recreational needs GK also touts a cinema and fitness club.

Easily accessed on foot, those arriving by car have 1,500 parking spaces to pick from (first two hours free Mon-Fri).

QM‑8, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 01 01, www. galeriakazimierz.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

GALERIA KRAKOWSKA Hard to miss since it’s been sneakily incorporated into the train station, making it one of the most centrally located shopping malls in Europe. Covering 60,000m2 over 3 floors, among their 250 stores you’ll find H&M, Zara, Reserved, Saturn and Carrefour, plus 1400 parking spaces, and a bustling food court. The mall and large square in front of it also host frequent exhibits and events, contributing to the revival of this once-dodgy area.QK‑4, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48) 12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

BUTIK LCS – GUCCI, CHLOE, SAINT LAURENT, MOSCHINO, STELLA MCCARTNEY, BALMAIN, SEE BY CHLOE, PAUL SMITH, KENZO, PHILIPP PLEIN, OFF WHITE, DSQUARED2, DIOR, PLEIN SPORT, JUST CAVALLI, ISABEL MARANT, VERSACE, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, JIMMY CHOO, MONCLER, GIVENCHY, MARSELL, MARNI, RICK OWENS, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI, MARC JACOBS, GOLDEN GOOSE, FENDI, AMI, LOST AND FOUND, LANVIN, MAISON MARGIELA, ALLSAINTS, ACNE, VALENTINO RED, MCM, VICTORIA BECKHAM, RAG&BONE, ETRO, ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI, AMIRI, ANDRÉ GRAND - COLETTI, CERRUTI 1881, THOMPSON LONDON, VERSACE, BAGATT, DIESEL, DIAMANTI, LOOKBOOK MOKOBELLE, LOUVE WITH EVOLUE – ROBERT KUPISZ, PAPROCKI & BRZOZOWSKI, GOSIA BACZYŃSKA, ŁUKASZ JEMIOŁ, 303 AVENUE, NATALIA JAROSZYŃSKA, WESTWOOD EYEWEAR, MAGGIE PIU, MANIEWSKI, NESPRESSO, NORD SHOES STUDIO, TUTTI COLORI - MONALISA, CARAMELLA, MINI MELLISA, BUNNY WHITE, WOLFORD, LCONCEPT 13 - BAR & RESTAURANT 13, DELIKATESY 13, VINOTEKA 13

PASAŻ 13 This gorgeous old Rynek townhouse was converted into a snazzy upscale shopping area in 2005 to become the first branch of the trademark Likus Concept Stores. Much nicer than your typical shopping mall, Pasaż 13 has over a dozen designer shops for you to peruse, including their own Likus Fashion Concept (a curated collection of top brands like Gucci, Saint Laurent, Jimmy Choo, Marc Jacobs), Louve with Evolue (top Polish designers), Andre Grand (men’s suits), Diamanti (jewellery), Nord Shoes Studio, Diesel, Nespresso, Wolford and more, plus a fine Italian delicatessen, wine shop, student club, and the L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant - all on the bottom floor.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, www. pasaz-13.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

SERENADA What do you do when you have a slightly dated and struggling shopping centre? Build an enormous modern shopping Mecca directly next to it! Wedged between Krokus, Multikino, the Water Park and Toys R Us, Serenada lands (like all shopping malls before it) as the largest, most modern, exclusive and superlative-laden shopping mall in the region, and to be honest, it looks the part. Featuring plenty of amenities and features, including a post office, bike service station, lockers, and a co-working zone, Serenada offers 160 shops, 9 restaurants and 1030 parking spaces. Home to a classy Piotr & Paweł food market and the largest Zara in town, other retailers include H&M, Guess, Forever21, New Balance, Pierre Cardin, Reserved and Sinsay. To get to this shoppers paradise with public transit you’ll have to hop on a bus, getting off at ‘Bora Komorowskiego’ or ‘Os. Oświecenia.’QAl. Gen.T. Bora-Komorowskiego 41, tel. (+48) 12 201 10 00, www.centrumserenada.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. iyp.me/polandblog

MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13 OPEN: 9 AM - 9 PM; 11 AM - 5 PM

www.pasaz-13.pl

www.concept13.pl February – March 2018

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Directory 24-HOUR PHARMACIES

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES

APTEKA DBAM O ZDROWIEQJ‑12, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel. (+48) 800 11 01 10, www.doz.pl.

AMERICAN CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00, pl.usembassy.gov/embassy-consulate/krakow.

APTEKA DR. MAXQH‑4, ul. Karmelicka 23, tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.

24-HOUR SHOPS

AUSTRIAN CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QB‑3, ul. Armii Krajowej 19 (3rd floor), tel. (+48) 12 410 56 41, www.konsulataustrii.com/de/startseite/.

ALBI MARKETQH‑5, ul. Podwale 6.

ESTONIAN CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 15/4, tel. (+48) 12 429 16 98.

DELIKATESY KOCYK Also in the Old Town at ul. Karmelicka 42 (H-4), ul. Wielopole 18B (K-6) and ul. Zwierzyniecka 29 (H7).QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 20, www.sklepykocyk.pl.

FINNISH CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QI‑5, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, www.nordichouse.pl.

JUBILAT (HANDLOWA SPÓŁDZIELNIA JUBILAT) QH‑7, Al. Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 80 40, www. jubilat.com.pl.

FRENCH CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 53 50, www.cracovie.org.pl.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY

GERMAN CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30 00, www.krakau.diplo.de.

In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.

HUNGARIAN CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QL‑5, ul. Lubicz 17H, tel. (+48) 12 359 99 20, krakko.mfa.gov.hu.

English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: (+48) 608 599 999 or (+48) 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season.

For urgent medical emergencies, use the listings below.

The emergency room in PL is called SOR, and should only be visited if it is really necessary. In less urgent crises, we recommend you visit a private clinic, where you’ll get better service and avoid the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals.

EMERGENCY ROOM (SOR) QL‑5, ul. Kopernika 50, tel. (+48) 12 351 66 01, www.su.krakow.pl.

ARS MEDICA Private medical clinic located close to the train station.

QK‑3, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423 38 34, www. ars-medica.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. MEDICOVER Private medical clinic, also at ul. Bobrzyńskiego 37 (Dębniki, same hours as listed here), and ul. Bora Komorowskiego 25B (Prądnik Czerwony, open from 07:00 Mon-Fri, Sat: 8.00 - 14.00).QM‑8, ul. Podgórska 36, tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 134 Kraków In Your Pocket

ICELANDIC CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QI‑5, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, www.nordichouse.pl.

JAPANESE CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QH‑4, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43 59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.

MEXICAN CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW Qul. Wiedeńska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 12 636 52 59.

NORWEGIAN CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QN‑4, ul. Mosiężnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 633 03 76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.

ROYAL DANISH CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QI‑5, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, www.nordichouse.pl.

RUSSIAN CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QI‑4, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47, www.krakow.mid.ru.

SLOVAKIAN CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QJ‑5, ul. św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425 49 70, www.cgcracow.mfa.sk.

SWEDISH CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QI‑5, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80, www.nordichouse.pl.

UKRAINIAN CONSULATE IN KRAKÓW QM‑4, Al. Beliny-Prażmowskiego 4, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 66, www.krakow.mfa.gov.ua. iyp.me/krakow

Directory DENTISTS

CURRENCY EXCHANGE

DENTA-MED Also at ul. Św. Gertrudy 4 (J-6) and ul. Augustiańska 13 (J-9) both open 08:00 - 21:00.QM‑9, ul. Na Zjeździe 13, tel. (+48) 12 259 80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Open 24hrs.

DENTESTETICA QJ‑1, ul. Kamienna 21, tel. (+48) 887 05 05 01, www. dentestetica.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

INTERNET CAFES HETMAŃSKA24 A 24-hour internet cafe and copy centre, they offer printing, scanning, CD-burning, and more, including coffee. Also a second location at ul. Bracka 4.QI‑6, ul. Wiślna 4, tel. (+48) 730 34 43 44, www.hetmanska24.com. Open 08:00 22:00, Open 24hrs.

LAUNDRY FRANIA CAFE Kraków’s first and only laundromat cafe, let them do it for you, or wash it yourself, while enjoying wifi, coffee, craft beer and booze from the bar. There’s also a full menu of food, including breakfast which is served until 17:00.QJ‑8, ul. Stradomska 19 (entrance from Św. Agnieszki 2), tel. (+48) 783 94 50 21, www.franiacafe.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00. T­6­G­W PEPE PRALNIA A high-quality self-service laundromat right in the centre of Kazimierz, this family company has great prices. Second location on the north side of the Old Town at ul. Długa 58 (I-3).QJ‑8, ul. Dietla 51, tel. (+48) 666 11 11 19, www. pepepralnia.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKAQJ‑6, ul. Westerplatte 20.

Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. POCZTA POLSKAQK‑4, ul. Lubicz 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 44 51, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES ST. BARBARA’S Mass in German each Sunday at 14:30. Q J‑5, Mały Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 12 428 15 00, www.swbarbara.jezuici.pl.

ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA Mass in Italian every Sunday at 15:30. Also mass in Spanish every third Sunday at 14:30.QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl.

ST. GILES CHURCH Mass in English each Sunday at 10:30.QJ‑7, ul. Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Kraków, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve vetted local exchange offices for you and assembled a list of well-located kantors that won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission. In Kraków’s Old Town, you’ll find kantors all along ul. Floriańska (J-5), but it’s two streets over on ul. Sławkowska (I-5) that you’ll find better, more competitive prices - this is the best place to go rate hunting near the market square.

KANTORQM‑8, ul. Podgórska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz), tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. Open 09:30 21:00, Sun 09:30 - 20:00.

KANTORQK‑4, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel. (+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

KANTOR CFSQK‑4, ul. Pawia 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 33 33. Open 24hrs.

KANTOR GROSZQI‑5, ul. Sławkowska 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 78 22. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

COMPUTER REPAIR BIT COMPUTER QJ‑6, ul. Św. Krzyża 5-7, tel. (+48) 12 422 86 36, www.bitcomputer.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. PCNET Located a bit outside of the Old Town in Salwator, but they’ll come to you if you need them to. At this address they also have a shop and internet cafe (3zł/ hour; printing and cd-burning available).QF‑8, ul.

Kościuszki 82, tel. (+48) 609 18 29 45, www.pcnet. biz. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. February – March 2018

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Hotels

No matter your budget, thanks to Kraków’s ascent into elite status as a European destination, there is no lack of accommodation options in this fabled city. From fancy 5-star affairs to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and breakfasts, historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels you certainly shouldn’t struggle to find yourself a place to sleep. On our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - we list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and around Kraków, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include all of that content here as we once did, however we still provide an updated list of reputable hotels, apartments and hostels below. Sleep well.

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Parking available

6 Animal friendly

w Wellness

C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available

136 Kraków In Your Pocket

CREAM OF THE CROP COPERNICUSQI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 34 00, www.copernicus.hotel.com.pl. 29 rooms (4 singles, 17 doubles, 8 suites). P­H­6­L­K­D­ C­w hhhhh GRAND QI‑5, ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08 00, www.grand.pl. 64 rooms (10 singles, 45 doubles, 9 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­L­K­D hhhhh GRÓDEK QJ‑6, ul. Na Gródku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30, www. donimirski.com. 23 rooms (2 singles, 20 doubles, 1 suite). P­H­6U ­ ­L­K­D hhhhh HOLIDAY INN KRAKOW CITY CENTER QK‑6, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www. hik.krakow.pl. 236 rooms (220 singles, 220 doubles, 7 apartments, 1 Presidential Apartment). P­H6 ­ ­U­ F­L­K hhhhh HOTEL STARY QI‑5, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384 08 08, www. hotel.com.pl. 78 rooms (8 singles, 53 doubles, 6 suites, 7 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). P­H­6­U­F­L­ K­D­X­C­w hhhhh iyp.me/krakow

Hotels NIEBIESKI ART HOTEL & SPA QF‑8, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, www. niebieski.com.pl. 40 rooms (38 singles, 38 doubles, 2 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­L­K­D­w hhhhh RADISSON BLU QI‑6, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 12 618 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow.

196 rooms (142 singles, 142 doubles, 19 apartments, 35 Business Class Rooms). P­H­6­U­F­L­K­D­w hhhhh SHERATON GRAND KRAKOW QH‑7, ul. Powiśle 7, tel. (+48) 12 662 10 00, www. sheratongrandkrakow.com. 232 rooms (221 singles, 221 doubles, 10 suites, 1 Presidential Wawel Apartment).

P­H­6­U­F­K­D­X­C­W hhhhh

UPMARKET AMADEUS QJ‑5, ul. Mikołajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 70, www. hotel-amadeus.pl. 22 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles, 2 apartments). P­H­U­F­L­K­D hhhh AMBER BOUTIQUE HOTELS QI‑4, ul. Garbarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 06, www. hotel-amber.pl. 38 rooms (17 singles, 29 doubles, 8 triples, 6 suites). P­H­6­U­F­L­D FRANCUSKI QJ‑4, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, www. hotel-francuski.com.pl. 42 rooms (4 singles, 23 doubles, 15 apartments). H­6­F hhhh GALAXY QM‑8, ul. Gęsia 22A, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00, www. galaxyhotel.pl. 205 rooms (200 singles, 200 doubles, 50 triples, 5 suites). P­H­U­F­L­K­D­XC ­ ­w hhhh HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKÓW QI‑10, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, www.hgi.com. 154 rooms (147 singles, 147 doubles, 7 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­L­K hhhh HOTEL KANONICZA 22 QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel. (+48) 603 95 13 77, www. kanonicza22.com. 3 rooms (3 apartments). P­K HOTEL KOSSAK QH‑7, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379 59 00, www. hotelkossak.pl. 60 rooms (55 singles, 55 doubles, 5 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­K­D­X hhhh HOTEL RUBINSTEIN QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48) 12 384 00 00, www. rubinstein.pl. 30 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5 suites).

P­H­L­K­D hhhh iyp.me/polandblog

February – March 2018

137

Hotels

HOTEL SENACKI QI‑7, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 86, www. hotelsenacki.pl. 20 rooms (20 singles, 16 doubles, 2 suites). P­6­UF ­ ­L­K hhhh

POLSKI POD BIAŁYM ORŁEM QJ‑4, ul. Pijarska 17, tel. (+48) 12 422 11 44, www. donimirski.com. 60 rooms (14 singles, 38 doubles, 5 triples, 3 suites). P­H­6­U­L­K hhhh

HOTEL UNICUS QJ‑5, ul. Św. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12 433 71 11, www. hotelunicus.pl. 35 rooms (6 singles, 29 doubles). P­H­ L­K­D hhhh

Q HOTEL KRAKÓWQul. Radzikowskiego 142, tel. (+48) 12 333 41 41, www.qhotels.pl/en/krakow. 89 rooms (89 singles, 89 doubles). P­H6 ­ ­U­L­K hhh

MERCURE KRAKÓW OLD TOWN QK‑4, ul. Pawia 18B, tel. (+48) 12 225 11 11, www. mercure.com. 198 rooms (198 singles, 198 doubles).

P­H­6­U­F­L­K hhhh

Q HOTEL PLUS KRAKÓWQH‑9, ul. Wygrana 6, tel. (+48) 12 333 40 20, www.qhotels.pl/en/krakowplus. 154 rooms (56 singles, 149 doubles, 4 suites, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­F­L­K­W hhhh

NOVOTEL KRAKÓW CENTRUM QG‑7, ul. Kościuszki 5, tel. (+48) 12 299 29 00, www. novotel.com. 198 rooms (192 singles, 192 doubles, 6 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­L­K­D­C­w hhhh

QUBUS HOTEL KRAKÓW QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 6, tel. (+48) 12 374 51 00, www. qubushotel.com. 194 rooms (183 singles, 170 doubles, 10 suites, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­F­L­K­D­C hhhh

PARK INN BY RADISSON KRAKOW QH‑9, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www. parkinn.com/hotel-krakow. 152 rooms (152 singles, 152 doubles). P­H­6­U­F­LK ­ ­D­w hhhh

VIENNA HOUSE ANDEL’S CRACOW QK‑4, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12 660 01 00, www. viennahouse.com. 159 rooms (153 singles, 153 doubles, 6 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­L­D hhhh

POD RÓŻĄ (UNDER THE ROSE) QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 14, tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www. podroza.hotel.com.pl. 57 rooms (50 singles, 37 doubles, 7 apartments). P­H­6­F­L­K­D hhhh

WENTZL QI‑6, Rynek Główny 19, tel. (+48) 12 430 26 64, www. wentzl.pl. 18 rooms (18 singles, 18 doubles, 7 triples).

P­6­L­K hhhh

138 Kraków In Your Pocket

iyp.me/krakow

Hotels MID-RANGE APARTHOTEL W PAŁACUQJ‑4, ul. Św. Filipa 25, tel. (+48) 12 376 95 55, www.wpalacu.com. 24 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles, 24 triples). P­6­K­X ASCOT HOTELQK‑5, ul. Radziwiłłowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 384 06 06, www.hotelascot.pl. 49 rooms (49 singles, 36 doubles, 7 triples, 2 quads). P­H­6­U hhh CAMPANILEQJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424 26 00, www.campanile.com. 106 rooms (105 singles, 105 doubles, 43 triples, 1 suite). P­H­6­U hhh CLASSICQJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03 03, www.hotel-classic.pl. 31 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles, 4 triples, 5 apartments). P­6­U hhh DAVID BOUTIQUE HOTELQK‑8, ul. Ciemna 13, tel. (+48) 12 619 24 70, www.hoteldavid.pl. 21 rooms (5 singles, 16 doubles). P­H­6­U­L­K hhh EDENQK‑8, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, www.hoteleden.pl. 27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5 triples, 2 suites). P­H­6­U­D hhh FLORYANQJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 38, tel. (+48) 12 431 14 18, www.floryan.com.pl. 21 rooms (21 singles, 21 doubles, 8 triples, 3 quads). P­H­6­K hhh FORTUNA BISQH‑6, ul. Piłsudskiego 25, tel. (+48) 12 430 10 25, www.hotel-fortunabis.pl. 20 rooms (3 singles, 12 doubles, 4 triples, 1 apartment). 6­U­L­K hhh HOTEL KAZIMIERZQK‑8, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, www.hk.com.pl. 38 rooms (38 singles, 28 doubles, 2 triples). P­H­6 hhh HOTEL KAZIMIERZ IIQL‑8, ul. Starowiślna 60, tel. (+48) 12 426 80 70, www.hk.com.pl. 29 rooms (2 singles, 27 doubles). H­6 hhh IBIS KRAKÓW CENTRUMQG‑7, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 33 00, www.accorhotels.com. 175 rooms (175 singles, 175 doubles). P­6­U­L­K hhh IBIS KRAKÓW STARE MIASTOQK‑3, ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 00, www.accorhotels.com. 135 rooms (135 singles, 135 doubles, 16 triples). P­H­6­U­K hhh KARMELQK‑8, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 97, www.karmel.com.pl. 11 rooms (4 singles, 6 doubles, 1 suite). 6­K hhh MATEJKO QJ‑4, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37, www. matejkohotel.pl. 51 rooms (48 singles, 45 doubles, 3 apartments). H­6­U­L­K hhh iyp.me/polandblog

February – March 2018

139

Hotels POD WAWELEM QI‑7, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12 426 26 25, www. hotelpodwawelem.pl. 48 rooms (47 singles, 42 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­K­D hhh As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow just 5km from the Market Square, we offer silence and comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also offer a sauna and tanning bed.

Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Kraków tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30 e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl www.ruczajhotel.pl

POLLERAQJ‑5, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44, www.pollera.com.pl. 42 rooms (7 singles, 24 doubles, 7 triples, 2 quads, 2 apartments). H­6­L hhh ROYALQJ‑7, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 35 00, www.hotelewam.pl. 102 rooms (34 singles, 38 doubles, 14 triples, 13 suites, 3 apartments). P­H­ 6­U­L­K hhh RUCZAJ Qul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00, www.ruczajhotel. com.pl. 49 rooms (11 singles, 23 doubles, 7 triples, 4 quads, 4 suites). P­H­6­U­L­K­D hhh VIENNA HOUSE EASY CRACOW QN‑4, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 00 00, www. viennahouse.com. 220 rooms (212 singles, 7 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­F­L­K­D hhh WAWELQJ‑6, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00, www.hotelwawel.pl. 38 rooms (9 singles, 28 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­K­D­w hhh

What’s On in Kraków?

It’s all In Your Pocket

WIELOPOLEQJ‑6, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14 75, www.wielopole.pl. 35 rooms (9 singles, 27 doubles, 9 triples). P­6­U­K hhh WYSPIAŃSKI QK‑6, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 95 66, www. hotel-wyspianski.pl. 231 rooms (41 singles, 109 doubles, 81 triples). H­6­U­F­L­K hhh

BUDGET IBIS BUDGET KRAKÓW STARE MIASTO QK‑3, ul. Pawia 11, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 50, www. accorhotels.com. 167 rooms (167 singles, 167 doubles).

P­6­U h INDALO ROOMS QH‑7, ul. Tarłowska 15, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 91, www. cafeindalo.pl. 6 rooms (5 singles, 5 doubles, 2 triples, 1 Suite). 6­L

Free app download: iyp.me/app facebook2 /krakowinyourpocket brand12 @polandinyourpocket wordpress iyp.me/polandblog 140 Kraków In Your Pocket

TOURNET QJ‑8, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88, www. accommodation.krakow.pl. 18 rooms (17 singles, 16 doubles, 10 triples). 6 TRZY KAFKI GUEST ROOMS QH‑6, ul. Straszewskiego 25, tel. (+48) 12 632 48 56, www.trzykafki.pl. 19 rooms (15 singles, 15 doubles, 2 triples, 5 quads, 7 Five-person room, 3 Six-person room, 1 Seven-person room). 6 iyp.me/krakow

Hotels APARTMENTS ANTIQUE APARTMENTSQI‑5, Plac Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 67, www.antiqueapartments.pl.

40 rooms (40 apartments) Breakfast 25zł. P­6­L APARTMENT CRACOWQJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 39, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 26, www.apartmentcracow.com.

30 rooms (30 apartments). 6­L­K BRACKA 6QI‑6, ul. Bracka 6/6, tel. (+48) 12 341 40 11, www.bracka6.pl. 16 rooms (16 apartments). P KRAKOW CITY APARTMENTS QJ‑5, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel. (+48) 507 20 30 50, www. krakowapartments.info. 14 rooms (14 apartments).

KRAKOW FOR YOU APARTMENTS QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 48 35, www. krakowforyou.com. 12 rooms (12 apartments). 6 RED BRICKQJ‑4, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. (+48) 12 628 66 00, www.redbrick.pl. 16 rooms (16 apartments). 6

Airconditioned suites, Art Nouveau ambiance, situated in the very heart of the Old Town...

RED KURKA QJ‑6, ul. Św. Gertrudy 5, tel. (+48) 535 91 91 35, www. redkurka.com. 3 rooms (3 apartments). 6­L

ul. Szpitalna 30, 31-024 Kraków Tel. +48 12 422 10 44, Fax: +48 12 422 13 89 rezerwacja@pollera.com.pl, www.pollera.com.pl

HOSTELS GOOD BYE LENIN PUB & GARDEN QK‑7, ul. Joselewicza 23, tel. (+48) 12 421 20 30, www.goodbyelenin.pl. 14 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 62 dorm beds).

GREG & TOM BEER HOUSE QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 43, tel. (+48) 12 421 28 64, www. gregtomhostel.com. 9 rooms (92 dorm beds). K LITTLE HAVANA PARTY HOSTEL QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 10, tel. (+48) 660 56 24 00, www. thelittlehavanahostel.com. 14 rooms (2 doubles, 124 dorm beds).

MOMOTOWN QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 28, tel. (+48) 12 429 69 29, www.momotownhostel.com. 20 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles, 80 dorm beds). L THE SECRET GARDEN HOSTEL QJ‑9, ul. Skawińska 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 45, www. thesecretgarden.pl. 30 rooms (30 singles, 30 doubles, 5 triples). 6

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App iyp.me/polandblog

ul. Skawińska 7 31-066 Kraków phone: +48 12 430 54 45 mobile: +48 531 810 078 www.thesecretgarden.pl e-mail: info@thesecretgarden.pl February – March 2018

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Street Index 29 Listopada, Al. K-1/2; L-1 3 Maja, Al. C/E-5; E/G-6 Akademicka F-4 Altanowa C-2 Ariańska L-4 Armii Krajowej, Al.

A-1/3; B-3; C-3 Asnyka I-4 Augustiańska J-8/9 Bajeczna P-6/7 Bałuckiego G-8/9 Bandtkiego B-1/2; C-1 Bandurskiego M-2/3; N-3 Barska H-8/10; I-9/10 Bartosza K-8/9 Basztowa I/K-4; K-5 Batorego H-4; I-4 Beliny-Prażmowskiego, Al. M-2/4 Bernardyńska I-8; J-7/8 Biała Droga F-9; G-9 Biernackiego G-2/3 Biskupia I-4 Blachnickiego, Ks. L-7 Blich K-5/6 Bobrowskiego N-6; O-6 Boczna G-10 Bogusławskiego J-7 Bocheńska K-9 Bonerowska K-6 Bonifraterska K-9 Borowego A-4/5 Bosacka L-4 Bożego Ciała J-8; K-8/9 Bracka I-6 Brązownicza A-3 Brodowicza M-3/4; N-2/4 Bronowicka B/D-1 Brzozowa K-7/8 Bułhaka H-9/10 Buszka B-3; C-4 Bydgoska D-3; E-3 Bytomska F-1/2 Ceglarska F-11/12; G-11/12 Celna K-10 Ciemna K-8 Cieszyńska H-2 Cicha B-2; C-2 Cybulskiego G-5; H-5 Cystersów O-4/5 Czapskich H-6 Czarnieckiego M-10 Czarnowiejska E/H-4 Czysta G-5; H-5 Czyżówka J-12; K-12 Dąbrowskiego, Gen. M-10; N-10 Dajwór K-8; L-8 Daszyńskiego L-6/8; M-8 Dębnicka G-9 Dębowa G-9; H-9 Dekerta N-10; O-8/10 Dembowskiego L-11; M-11 Dietla I-8/9; J-7/8; K-6/8 Długa I-2/3; J-3/4 Długosza J-10/11 Dolnych Młynów H-4/5 Dominikańska J-6 Droga do Zamku I-7/8; J-7 Dunajewskiego I-4/5 Dworska G-10; H-10 Fabryczna O-6; P-6 Fałata E-7; F-7 Feldmana H-4 Fenn’a Sereno I-4; J-4 Filarecka F-7 Flisacka F-8 Floriańska J-4/5 Focha, Al. marsz. C/E-7; E/G-6 Franciszkańska I-6 Friedleina H-1/2 Garbarska H-4/5; I-4 Garczyńskiego N-3; O-3 Garncarska H-5/6 Gazowa K-9

Gęsia M-7/8 Głowackiego C-1; D-1 Goetla C-4; D-4 Gołębia I-5/6 Gontyna D-8; E-8 Grabowskiego G-4; H-4 Gramatyka D-2/3 Grodzka I-6; J-6/7 Gromadzka P-12 Grunwaldzka N-3/4; O-3 Gryfity E-7 Grzegórzecka

K/M-6; M/O-7; O-6; P-6 Gzymsików H-2 Halicka L-8 Helclów I-2; J-2 Herlinga-Grudzińskiego

N-8/9; O-9 Hofmana B-7; C-6/7 Humberta G-5/6 Chmielowskiego J-10 Chocimska E-3/4; F-4 Chodkiewicza L-6/7; M-6 Chodowieckiego C-5; D-4/5 Chopina F-3/4; G-3 Igrców C-5 Ingardena F-5; G-5 Izaaka K-8 Jabłonowskich H-5/6 Jadwigi z Łobzowa C-2; D-2 Jagiellońska I-5/6 Jakuba K-8 Jaskółcza G-8 Joselewicza K-7/8 Józefa J-8/9; K-8 Józefa, ks.

A/D-9; D-8; E-8 Józefitów G-3 Kadecka E-2 Kalwaryjska J-11/12; K-10/11 Kamienna I-2; J-1/2 Kanonicza I-6/7 Kapelanka F-10; G-10/12; H-11 Kapucyńska H-5 Karłowicza F-4; G-4 Karmelicka G-3; H-3/5; I-5 Kasztelańska E-6/7 Kielecka N-3/4 Kiełkowskiego O-10 Kijowska, Al. E-2/4; F-1/2 Kilińskiego H-9 Klimeckiego O-9/10; P-9/10 Kmieca G-1 Kobierzyńska H-12 Kochanowskiego G-4; H-4 Koletek I-8; J-8 Kołłątaja K-6; L-6 Komandosów H-10/11; I-10 Konarskiego F-3/4; G-3 Konfederacka G-9; H-9 Konopnickiej H-8/9; I-9/12; J-12 Konwisarzy A-3 Kopernika K/M-5; K-6; M-4 Kordylewskiego N-5/6 Kościuszki E/G-8; G-7; H-7 Kosynierów P-4 Kotlarska M-7/8; N-7/8 Krakowska J-8/9; K-9/10 Krasickiego J-11/12 Krasińskiego, Al. G-6/7; H-7 Kraszewskiego F-6/7 Kremerowska H-4 Królewska E-2; F-2/3; G-3 Królowej Jadwigi

A/C-6; A-5; C/E-7; E-8 Krótka J-4 Krowoderska H-2; I-2/4; J-4 Krupnicza G/I-5 Krzemionki K-11/12 Krzywa J-4 Krzywda O-10; P-10/11 Kujawska G-2 Kupa K-8 Kurkowa L-4 Kurniki J-4; K-4

144 Kraków In Your Pocket

Lanckorońska M-11; N-11 Lea A/D-2; D/G-3 Lenartowicza G-3; H-3 Leszczynowa C-6 Lewkowa K-8 Limanowskiego

L/N-10; M-11; N-11 Lipowa M-9; N-9 Litewska F-1; G-1 Łobzowska G/I-3; I-4 Łokietka H-1/2 Loretańska H-5/6 Lubelska H-2; I-2 Lubicz K/M-4; K-5 Lubomirskiego L-4; M-4 Ludowa N-12 Ludwinowska I-10/11; J-10 Lwowska M-10 Madalińskiego H-8 Mała H-6 Malczewskiego C-7/9 Mały Rynek J-5/6 Masarska L-7; M-7 Mazowiecka F-1; G-1/2; H-2 Meiselsa J-8; K-8 Metalowców L-6 Mickiewicza, Al. G-3/6 Michałowskiego H-4 Mikołajska J-5; K-5 Miodowa J/L-8; L-7 Mitery J-11/12 Mlaskotów E-7; F-7/8 Mogilska M/P-4 Moniuszki M/O-3 Monte Cassino F-10; G-9/10; H-9 Mosiężnicza N-4 Mostowa K-9 Na Gródku J-6 Na Szaniec P-6 Na Ustroniu H-10 Na Zjeździe L-9; M-9/10 Nawojki C/E-3; E-4 Oboźna H-1 Odlewnicza A/C-3 Odrowąża H-1/2; I-1 Ofiar Dąbia P-6/7 Oleandry F-5/6; G-5/6 Olszańska M-2/3; N-3 Orawska I-11; J-11 Orzeszkowej J-8/9 Owcy-Orwicza A-6; B-6 Paderewskiego J-4 Parkowa L-10/11 Patynów E-10 Paulińska I-9; J-8/9 Pawia K-2/5 Pawlickiego, Ks. F-10 Pędzichów I-3; J-2/3 Piastowska B-6; C-3/6; D-1/3 Piekarska J-9 Pietrusińskiego D-10/11; E-10 Pijarska I-4; J-4/5 Piłsudskiego K-10 Piłsudskiego G-6; H-6 Piwna L-9/10 Pl. Bawół K-8 Pl. Bernardyński J-7 Pl. Bohaterów Getta

L-9/10; M-10 Pl. Inwalidów G-3 Pl. Kossaka H-7 Pl. Mariacki J-5 Pl. Matejki J-4 Pl. Na Groblach H-7; I-7 Pl. Nowy K-8 Pl. Serkowskiego J-10/11; K-10 Pl. Św. Ducha J-5 Pl. Szczepański I-5 Pl. Wolnica J-9; K-9 Pod Kopcem M-11; N-11/12 Podbrzezie K-8 Podgórska

K-9/10; L/N-8; L-9; M-7; N-7 Podchorążych D-1/2; E-2

Podskale J-12 Podwale H-5; I-5 Podzamcze I-7 Pokoju, Al. M/P-6; M-7 Pomorska G-3 Portowa O-8; P-8 Poselska I-6; J-6 Powiśle H-7; I-7 Powroźnicza H-8 Powstańców Śląskich, Al. K-12; L/N-11; L-12 Powstańców Wielkopolskich, Al.

N-11; O-10/11; P-10 Powstania Warszawskiego, Al.

M-4/6; N-5 Prądnicka I-1/2; J-1 Prandoty K/M-1 Praska D-10; E/G-9; E-10 Prusa F-6/7 Przedwiośnie I-11; J-10/11 Przemysłowa M-9; N-9 Przybyszewskiego B-1/3 Pułaskiego, Gen. G-9; H-8/9 Racławicka F-1/2 Radziwiłłowska K-5 Rajska H-4/5 Rakowicka L-3/4; M-1/3; N-1 Reformacka I-4/5 Rękawka L-10; M-10 Retoryka H-6/7 Reymana E-4/5 Reymonta C/F-4; F-5; G-5 Różana H-8 Rybaki J-10; K-10 Rynek Dębnicki G-8; H-8 Rynek Główny I-5/6; J-5/6 Rynek Kleparski J-4 Rynek Podgórski K-10; L-10 Rzeszowska L-8 Rzeźnicza M-7 Sądowa N-5; O-5 Salezjańska F-11 Salwatorska F-7 Sandomierska H-8 Sarego J-7; K-7 Senacka I-6; J-6 Senatorska F-7/8; G-7 Siedleckiego L-6/7 Siemieńskiego E-1/2 Siemiradzkiego H-3; I-3 Sienkiewicza G-2/3; H-2 Sienna J-5/6 Skałeczna J-9 Skalica B-12 Skarbińskiego D-3; E-3 Skawińska J-9 Skłodowskiej-Curie K-5 Skwerowa G-8/9; H-9 Śląska H-2; I-2 Sławkowska I-5; J-4/5 Śliska J-11/12 Słomiana G-10/11 Słonecznikowa B-6 Słowackiego, Al. G-3; H/K-2; H-3 Ślusarska N-9 Smocza I-8 Smoleńsk G/I-6 Smolki J-11; K-11 Sobieskiego H-3/4 Spasowskiego I-3 Spiżowa A-3 Starowiślna J-6; K-6/8; L-8/9 Staszica I-3 Stawarza L-11; M-11 Stolarska J-6 Stradomska J-7/8 Straszewskiego H-5/6; I-6/7 Strzelecka L-4/5 Studencka H-5 Sukiennicza I-8; J-8 Supniewskiego O-3/4 Św. Agnieszki J-8 Św. Anny H-5; I-5 Św. Bronisławy E-8

Św. Bronisławy D-8; E-8 Św. Filipa J-3/4 Św. Gertrudy J-6/7 Św. Idziego I-7; J-7 Św. Jacka F-11/12; G-12 Św. Jana I-5; J-4/5 Św. Katarzyny J-9 Św. Krzyża J-5/6 Św. Łazarza L-6 Św. Marka I/K-5; I-4 Św. Sebastiana J-7; K-7 Św. Stanisława I-9 Św. Teresy H-3; I-3 Św. Tomasza I-5; J-5 Św. Wawrzyńca K-8/9; L-8 Świętokrzyska H-1/2 Symfoniczna G-4 Syrokomli G-6/7 Szablowskiego A-1; B-1 Szafera N-5/6 Szczepańska I-5 Szeroka K-8 Szewska I-5 Szlachtowskiego C-2; D-2 Szlak H/K-3 Szpitalna J-4/5 Szwedzka G-8/10; H-10 Szymanowskiego G-3/4 Tenczyńska H-7 Tkacka F-4 Topolowa L-4; M-4 Toruńska D-3; E-3 Traugutta M-9/10 Trynitarska K-9 Twardowskiego

F-11; G-10/11; H-9/10 Tyniecka A-12; B-12; C-10/12;

D-9/10; E/G-8; E-9 Urzędnicza F-2/4 Wadowicka J-12 Wałowa O-10 Wandy N-7 Warmijska D-2 Warszauera K-8 Warszawska J-2/4; K-2/3 Wasilewskiego H-9 Wąska K-8/9 Waszyngtona, Al. A/D-8 Węgłowa J-9 Wenecja G-5/6; H-6 Westerplatte J-6; K-5/6 Wielopole J-6; K-6 Wierzbowa H-10 Wietora J-9/10 Wioślarska C-9/10 Wiślna I-5/6 Włościańska A-1/2 Wodna P-11/12 Wodociągowa A/C-8; B-9 Wójtowska G-1/2; H-1 Worcella J-4; K-4 Wróblewskiego J-3 Wrocławska F/H-1; H-2; I-2 Wrzesińska K-7 Wyczółkowskiego E-7; F-7 Wygoda H-7 Wyspiańskiego G-2 Zacisze J-4; K-4 Zakątek E-1/2; F-2 Zamenhofa K-5 Zamkowa H-8 Zarzecze A/C-2; A-1 Zatorska I-11; J-10/11 Zegadłowicza H-6 Żelazna K-2 Zielińskiego, Gen.

D-9; E-9/10; F-10 Żółkiewskiego M-6 Zwierzyniecka H-6/7; I-6 Żwirki i Stanisława Wigury P-1 Zwycięstwa P-5/6 Zyblikiewicza K-6 Zygmunta B-2

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Venue Index 19th Century Polish Art Gallery 80 Adam Mickiewicz Monument 74 Alchemia 57 Alchemia od Kuchni 37 Amadeus 137 Amarone 44 Ambasada Śledzia 55 Amber Boutique Hotels 137 Antique Apartments 141 Aparthotel w Pałacu 139 Apartment Cracow 141 Archaeology Museum 80 Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal Karol Wojtyła 81 Ariel 46 ARS Cinema 125 Ascot Hotel 139 Auschwitz I 120 Auschwitz II - Birkenau 120 Austeria 130 Bagelmama 29 Bal 28 Balkan Express Grill 35 Barbican 71 Bar Górnik 52 Bernatek Footbridge 107 Bianca 44 Bierhalle 37 Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace 81 Bishop’s Palace & Papal Window 77 Bistro GotuJemy 54 Blazko 128 Boccanera 44 Bococa 28 BonJour CaVa 28 Bottiglieria 1881 37 Bowling Plac Nowy 1 124 Bracka 6 141 Bunkier Cafe 29, 38 Bunkier Sztuki 80 Cafe Młynek 54 Cafe Nakielny 29 Camelot 29 Campanile 139 Cargo Grill & Deli 33 Cathedral Museum 93 Cathedral Ticket Office 91 C Dołek 11 Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 29 Chimera Salad Bar 40 Chorąży Caps & Hats 132 Church of Saints Peter & Paul 78 Cinema City Galeria Kazimierz 125 Classic 139 Cloth Hall 75 Collegium Maius 76 Collegium Novum 77 Copernicus 38, 136 Copernicus Spa by L’Occitane 127 Corpus Christi Church 101 Cracow City Tours 68 Cricoteka 105 Crown Treasury & Armoury 91 Cupcake Corner Bakery 29 Czartoryski Museum - Arsenal 82 Czerwone Korale 48 Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 127 Crazy Guides 113 David Boutique Hotel 139

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Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu 46 Dekor Art 129 Delikatesy 13 131 DiscoverCracow.eu 68, 69 Dym 57 Eden 139 Ed Red 48 Engineering Museum 100 Enklawa Restaurant & Cocktail Bar 48 Enoteka Pergamin 38 Eszeweria 57 Europeum Centre for European Culture 82 Euskadi 52 Fiorentina Ristorante Pizzeria 44 Floriańska Gate 72 Floryan 139 Food Truck Square 44 Former Jewish Cemetery Grounds 9 Fortuna Bis 139 Forum Designu 129 Forum Przestrzenie 29, 58 Francuski 137 Frantic 64 Free Walkative! Tour 69 Galaxy 137 Galeria Kazimierz 133 Galeria Krakowska 133 Galeria LueLue 129 Galicia Jewish Museum 100 Getting to Płaszów 8 Go Jump 124 Good Bye Lenin Pub & Garden 141 Gorące Pączki 27 Grand 136 Grande Grill 33 Greg & Tom Beer House 141 Grey House 10 Gródek 136 Grunwald Monument 72 Guardhouse & Officers' Club 9 Hala Główna 60 Hamsa 47 Hard Rock Cafe 58 Hevre 48, 58 High Synagogue 100 Hilton Garden Inn Kraków 137 Hipolit House 83 History Museum 83 Holiday Inn Krakow City Center 136 Home Army Museum 84 Hotel Kanonicza 22 137 Hotel Kazimierz 139 Hotel Kazimierz II 139 Hotel Kossak 137 Hotel Rubinstein 137 Hotel Senacki 138 Hotel Stary 136 Hotel Unicus 138 House Of Beer 59 Hujowa Górka 11 Hurry Curry 34 Hutten-Czapski Museum 84 Ibis Budget Kraków Stare Miasto 140 Ibis Kraków Centrum 139 Ibis Kraków Stare Miasto 139

Indalo Rooms 140 India Masala 36 Indus Tandoor 36 InfoKraków 68 International Cultural Centre 80 InVito Pizza & Pasta 45 Irish Pub Pod Papugami 59 Isaac Synagogue 99 Jama Michalika 74 Jan Matejko House 85 Jan Matejko Monument 71 Jewish Community Centre 97 Jewish Funeral Parlor Ruins 9 Jordan Park Ice Rink 126 Jordan Tourist Information & Accommodation Centre 68 Józef Czapski Pavilion 85 Józef Mehoffer House 86 Judah Square Food Truck Park 44 Judaica Foundation 96 Karakter 38 Karma 30, 54 Karmel 139 Karmello 131 Kazimierz Historical Mural 99 Kiełbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski 44 Kino Pod Baranami 125 Klezmer Hois 46 Klub 30 64 Klubogaleria Szajba 59 Kogel Mogel 49 Kościuszko Mound 84 Kowea Itim le-Tora Prayer House 100 Krakow City Apartments 141 Krakow For You Apartments 141 Kraków in 15 Minutes 125 Krakowskie Metro 38 Kraków Water Park 125 Kraków Zoo 126 Krowarzywa Vegan Burger 54 Kupa Synagogue 97 La Campana Trattoria 45

La Grande Mamma 45 Lasota Hill 109 L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant 49 Le Scandale 60 Liban Quarry 109 Lilou 128 Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics Centre 105 Little Havana Party Hostel 141 Lokal 64 Lost Souls Alley - Deadly Walk 125 Lost Wawel 92 Main Market Square 73 Mały Rynek 82 Manggha 88 Manzana 47 Massolit Books & Café 130 Massolit Cooks 55 Matejko 139 Meat & Go 40 Mercure Kraków Old Town 138 Mercy Brown 60 Metrum Restobistro 49 MICET (Interactive Theatre Museum) 86 Miód Malina 49 Mleczarnia 60 Momotown 141 Monument to the Victims of September 10, 1939 10 Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club 33 Moo Moo Steak & Wine 34 Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK) 106 Museum of Poland under the Communist Regime 112 Museum of the Duke’s Brewery in Tychy 58 National Museum, Main Building 87 New Jewish Cemetery 97 Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa 137 NOLIO 45

NOWA HUTA STREET INDEX Andersa, al., gen. Q-1/2; R-2/3 Batalionu Parasol Q-1 Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen. M. Q-2/3 Bulwarowa S-1; T-1; U-1/3 Centralny, pl.

R-3; S-3 Cerchów T-3 Czuchajowskiego Q-1/2; R-1/2 Daniłowskiego T-3; U-3 Gajocha S-3 Gardy-Godlewskiego, pułk. S-2 Hansa Christiana Andersena S-1 Jana Pawła II, al.

Q/U-3 Kocmyrzowska Q-1; R-1 Łempickiego U-1 Ludźmierska Q-2; R-1/2 Mierzwy S/U-3 Mościckiego R/T-1 Obrońców Krzyża Q-1; R-1 Odmogile S-1; T-1

Orkana T-2/3; U-3 Osiedle Krakowiaków R-1 Osiedle Wandy U-3 Osiedle Zgody R-2 Padniewskiego Q-3 Pokrzywki Q-1 Przy Poczcie T-3; U-3 Przyjaźni, al.

R-2; S-2/3 Rondo Kocmyrzowskie Q-1 Róż, al.

S-1/2 Seiferta R-2 Śmigłego-Rydza, marsz. R/T-2 Solidarności, al.

S/U-2; S-3 Struga T-2 Szczeklika Q-1 Tomickiego Q-3 Wojciechowskiego T-1/2 Zachemskiego T-3 Żeromskiego R-1; S-1/2; T-2 Zuchów T-3

February – March 2018

145

Venue Index Novotel Kraków Centrum 138 Nowa Huta Museum 113 Nowa Prowincja 30 Noworolski 74 Obwarzanek Museum 126 Old Podgórze Cemetery 108 Old Synagogue 98 Omerta 60 Oriental Art 92 Orzo 40 Oświęcim Jewish Museum & Synagogue 119

Palace of the Arts 80 Pan Tu Nie Stał 132 Papugarnia Amazonia 126 Park Inn by Radisson Krakow 138 Pasaż 13 133 Paul's Boutique 132 Pharmacy Museum 88 Pharmacy Under the Eagle 106 Piec'Art 61 Piec na Zabłociu 46 Pierwszy Lokal...

61 Pierwszy Stopień 61

FEATURES & CATEGORIES ‘Kolejka’ Board Game 130 Art Cafés 74 Art Galleries 80 Breakfast 29 Currency Exchange 135 Food Trucks 44 Grunwald Monument 72 Have Your Say 38 Health & Emergency 134 Healthy Eats 54 Hot Beer?

64 Ice Skating 126 Klezmer 46 Kościuszko Mound 84 Kraków National Museum 86 Kraków Street Art 68 Krakus Mound 108 Lady With a Weasel 86 Language Smarts 30 Liban Quarry 109 Mały Rynek 82 Milk Bars 52 Open-air Markets 132 Pączki 27 Plac Centralny 112 Plac Szczepański 77 Polish Aviation Museum 113 Polish Food 24 Polish Gift Guide 129 Polish Snacks & Shots 55 Polish Vodka 26 Public Transport 13 Quick Eats 40 Rynek Podgórski 104 Stained Glass 89 Sunday Shopping Ban 128 The Hejnał 73 The Jewish Ghetto 106 The Obwarzanek 50 The Planty 76 The Wawel Dragon 93 Tipping Tribulations 48 Tourist Card 68 Tytano 60 Vice Advice 64 146 Kraków In Your Pocket

Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 55 Pimiento 47 Pino 40 Piotr Skrzynecki Monument 76 Pizzatopia 40 Plac Bohaterów Getta 107 Plac Izaaka 44 Plac Nowy 96, 132 Plac Nowy 1 40 Plac Św. Marii Magdaleny 79 Plac Szczepański 77 Plac Targowy Unitarg 132 Plac Wolnica 101 Pod Aniołami 50 Pod Norenami 55 Pod Nosem 50 Pod Różą 50, 138 Pod Temidą 52 Pod Wawelem 50, 140 Pojnarówka 30 Polish Aviation Museum 113 Pollera 140 Polonia Wax Museum 126 Polski Pod Białym Orłem 138 Popper Synagogue 98 Poster Gallery 130 Prozak 2.0 64 Q Hotel Kraków 138 Q Hotel Plus Kraków 138 Qualita Restaurant 51 Qubus Hotel Kraków 138 Radisson Blu 137 Ranny Ptaszek 29 Red Brick 141 Red House (Goeth's Villa) 11 Red Kurka 141 Regionalne Alkohole 131 Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery 98 Restauracja Sukiennice 51 Rock Shop 132 Royal 140 Royal Crypts 93 Royal Private Apartments 91 Ruczaj 140 Rynek Underground 88 Rzeźnia - Ribs on Fire 34 Sababa 61 Sarah Schenirer Headstone 10 Scandale Royal 29, 42 Scena54 62 SeeKrakow 68 Serenada 133 Sheraton Grand Krakow 137 Shine Club Kraków 65 Shisha Club by Bollywood 62 Sigismund Bell 93 Singer 62 Sissi Restaurant & Wine 42 Skałka & the Pauline Monastery 99 Słodki Wierzynek 30 Smakołyki 51 Społem Deluxe 65 St. Adalbert’s Church 74 Stained Glass Museum 88 St. Andrew’s Church 78 Stara Zajezdnia 62 Starmach Gallery 108 Stary Kleparz 132 State Rooms 91 St. Francis' Basilica 78

St. Joseph's Church 104 St. Mary’s Basilica 73 Storehouses & Main Gate 9 S-Tours 69 Syncret 128 Szambelan 131 Szara 42 Szara Gęś 51 Szara Kazimierz 42 Szpeje 130 Schindler's Factory 105 Słowacki Theatre 72 Tao Garden 34 Tao Teppanyaki & More 35 Tao Therapy 127 Teatro Cubano 65 Temple Synagogue 96 Thai Smile Massage 127 The Piano Rouge 63 The Secret Garden Hostel 141 The Stage 124 Tournet 140 Town Hall Tower 76 Tradycyja 42 Tram Bar 63 Trzy Kafki Guest Rooms 140 Trzy Rybki 42 ul. Dietla 95 Ulica Pomorska & Former Gestapo Cells 89 ul. Kanonicza 79 ul. Meiselsa 95 ul. Szeroka 98 Vanilla Sky 54 Vanilla Spa 127 Veganic 55 Vienna House Andel’s Cracow 138 Vienna House Easy Cracow 140 Visiting Auschwitz 118 Wanda's Mound 113 Wawel 140 Wawel Castle 90 Wawel Cathedral 92 Wawel Visitor Centre 91 Wentzl 138 Weźże Krafta 60 Wieliczka Salt Mine - Miners' Route 116 Wieliczka Salt Mine - Tourist Route 115 Wieliczka Tourist Information 114 Wielopole 140 WieloPole 3 55 Wierzynek 52 Wolnica Ice Rink 126 World of Amber 129 WOW KRAKOW! 69 Wyspiański 140 Wyspiański Pavillion 78 ZaKładka - Food & Wine 36 Zalipianki 52 Zazie Bistro 36 Zdzisław Beksiński Gallery 112 Zenit 42 Zen Restaurant & Sushi Bar 35 Zielonym Do Góry 54 Z Ust Do Ust 63

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Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.

Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand.

Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls.

Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

KRAKÓW, 27 Świętego Tomasza Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

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Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony