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Fantastic Phetchaburi 3 Flavours Project Director: Asst.Prof.Dr.Chalermporn Siriwichai AR and Design Director: Dr.Vorapoj Songcharoen Copywriter and art designer: Ms.Kanlayanamitr Chantarangkul, Mr.Suraparb Thirawat Copyeditor: Dr. Ivan Zawada Press by Create Mind Co., Ltd. 42 Soi Nakanivas 48/7 Lardprao Bangkok, Thailand. Copyright © 2021 Silpakorn University International College All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without prior written permission from the publisher. Publishing August 2021 by Silpakorn University International College 72 CAT Telecom Tower 8th-9th floor, Charoen Krung Road, Bangrak 10500, Bangkok, Thailand. ISBN : 978-974-641-786-0 4
Contents page Fantastic Phetchaburi 3 Flavours 6 3 Flavours Sweet Salty Sour 8 3 Fantastic Palaces Majestic Residences 12 3 Magnificent Temples 16 Phetchaburi City Map 20 3 Communities Cultural Heritage to Preserve 22 3 Marvels of Local food 28
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If you fancy a memorable trip to a place replete with gourmet food and jaw-dropping sites, Phetchaburi or “the City of Diamonds” is a dream come true for you. Indulge your passion for this fantastic destination. Phetchaburi is a lovely province stretching along the Gulf of Thailand and is well renown to cater for all tastes and budgets. Anyone with a chance to visit will certainly fall in love with this pristine location. Ecotourists, sport addicts, history buffs, photophiles, food lovers, art connoisseurs, everybody will shout “carpe diem” and enjoy a marvellous stay in Phetchaburi.
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As a seaside retreat, Phetchaburi prides itself on its 80 km long coastline dotted long coastline dotted with a certain number of beaches with soft sand and swimmable seas. Among the most popular beaches in the area, Cha-am has become popular with expats and locals alike and provides a scenic and comfortable place to relax and sunbathe. For those who have a sense of adventure and prefer to stretch their legs, Kaeng Krachan National Park will never disappoint them. It is a great place to get in touch with nature and admire thick unspoilt rainforests, rolling hills, resevoirs and rivers which provide quite the spectacle when enveloped in the morning blanket of fog. Moreover, it is worth exploring wildlife
To Ratchaburi ไป จ.ราชบุร�
Samut Sakhon จ.สมุทรสาคร 4
Ratchaburi จ.ราชบุร�
Khao Yoi District อ.เขายอย 3172
Wat Khao Takhrao วัดเขาตะเครา
Tham Khao Yoi Cave ถ้ำเขายอย
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Ban Laem District อ.บานแหลม 3176 3178 Nong Ya Plong District Mueang Phetchaburi District 3340 อ.หนองหญาปลอง อ.เมืองเพชรบุร� Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park อุทยานประวัติศาสตรพระนครคีรี (เขาวัง3179 ) Phra Ram Ratchaniwet (Baan Puen Palace) พระรามราชนิเวศน (พระราชวังบานปน) Ban Lat District Chao Samran Beach อ.บานลาด 3204 3177 หาดเจาสำราญ Kaeng Krachan National Park 3187 อุทยานแหงชาติแกงกระจาน Puk Tian Beach Tha Yang District หาดปกเตียน 3499 อ.ทายาง 4 Gulf of Thailand 3174 Kaeng Krachan District อาวไทย อ.แกงกระจาน 3410 3432 Ban Cha-am Railway Station 3432 สถานีบานชะอำ 3203 ra n Cha-am District Cha-am Beach หาดชะอำ อ.ชะอำ 3301 Mrigadayavan Palace นำ้ พระราชนิเวศนมฤคทายวัน rแ Buri Rive
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ณบรุ ี ปรา
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The Union of Myanmar สหภาพเมียนมาร Prachuap Khiri Khan จ.ประจวบคีร�ขันธ
To Hua Hin ไป อ.หัวหิน
living in the mangrove forest at Bang Tabun Mangrove Forest Conservation Area, north of Puk Tian Beach and also strolling with binoculars at Laem Phak Bia Royal Project site, seeing that this area is regarded as the top ten bird-watching location of Thailand. To experience sheer excitement between October and December, Bryde’s whalewatching boat trips off the Ban Laem Coast
To Prachuap Khiri Khan ไป จ.ประจวบคีร�ขันธ
is highly recommended. A herd of up to 10 whales can be spotted at high tide when the sea breeze is not so strong. To recap, there are plenty of things to do and to see in Phetchaburi beyond your expectations.
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sweet salty sour The precious agricultural resources of Phetchaburi consist in 3 major flavours relating to 3 different matters as follows:
Palmyra Palm Plantation The lifestyle of Phetchaburi locals has been inseparably linked to the palmyra palm in several aspects from the distant past to the present day. Phetchaburi people were very familliar with this multi-purpose tree which grew in abundance here, there and everywhere all over the “Muang Phet” areas to such
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an extent that Sunthorn Phu, famous poet in the Rattanakosin period, remarked in his travelling poem: “No matter in which direction I point around here, I catch sight of palm trees everywhere. To show unbreakable bond with their most cherished tree, Phetchaburi locals have decided to select leafy palm trees surrounding the Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace as a motif for the province’s emblem. Unlike the coconut harvest with the help of trained monkeys in the South, palm farmers unluckily have no assistant to do this backbreaking job. Full grown palm trees are estimated to rise to at least 30 metres. Those having the courage to reap palm spikes at such height are mostly elderly persons who have got long and
and hands-on experience. Tucking a knife and several bamboo tubes for collecting palm juice around their waist, palm farmers are required to securely tie 2 bamboo poles with branches cut short to be used as rungs, lean a so-called ladder against the serrated trunk and shin up the tree. Palmyra palm can be processed to make crude palm sugar, fresh palm juice and several delicious desserts such as toddy palm cake and jelly-like palm pulp in syrup. Its fan-shaped leaves can be converted into wickerwork products.
In terms of architecture, palmyra palm has incredibly become one of basic ingredients for Phetchaburi artisans when making stucco. 9
Salt Farm
According to official statistics in 2018, Phetchaburi is ranked number one in sea salt farming, accounting for around 46% of the total area of salt pans throughout the Kingdom. The rural highway No. 2021 flanked on either side by acres and acres of salt mounds during the dry season gives Ban Laem District breathtaking views. The salt is normally farmed once a year, starting in September after the rainy season, and will last about 7 months until May the following year. The salt is harvested in January through a solar evaporating process, with a combination of wind and sunlight, evaporating the water from shallow marshes, leaving dazzling white crystals behind. After harvesting, the salt is washed, drained and refined until its salinity reaches the required level. There are large drying sheds at the edge of the farm. Once the salt is processed, it is bagged for sale by the roadside or in local shops. The top-grade “Dok Kluea” or flower of salt is highly sought after for upmarket skincare product as well as spa treatments and can fetch high prices. 10
To promote the salt-producing industry, the province’s commercial office has organised the “Art of Salt Festival” every March, where visitors can view monumental sculptures made of salt, enjoy a salt spa and salt-colouring activities and learn more from the big model of a salt farm in a folk salt museum.
Lime Plantation Apart from brine salt farms, Phet chaburi also gets a name for cultivating limes. The Manao Paen Mueang Phet which etymologically means “Paen lime of Phetchaburi Town” is a key prolific citrus fruit of Thailand. It features a large juicy fruit in round or oval shape, with light yellow flesh, few small seeds, thin peel and fragrant smell. It tastes mildly acid and delicate. Some major factors for the high yield of lime farming in Phetchaburi “Phetchaburi lime” include its topography of river basin, is a profitable crop. well-drained loamy soil and favourable It has been registered as a geographic weather conditions. Considering these indication (GI) product overwhelming advantages, the Royal Project since 2013. of H.M. King Bhumibhol the Great (King Rama IX) strived to educate local farmers about this horticulture and shared with lime plantation area spreads over 15,800 them professional expertise for over 20 acres, scattering in 8 districts, particularly years. The upshot is that Phetchaburi’s in Tha Yang and Nong Ya Plong. 11
Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace
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2 1. Chatchawan Wiengchai and Wechayan Wichien Prasat 2. Phra Prang Deang
Fantastic Palaces Majestic Residences
The ancient town called “Phetchaburi” dates back to the Khmer and Dvaravati periods. Moreover, this province boasts a bewildering array of sights ranging from national parks, forest parks, mountains, beaches, caverns, waterfalls, temples to royal palaces. Three former kings of the current dynasty, succumbed to its natural charms, each building a palace respectively named Phra Nakhon Khiri, Phra Ram Ratchaniwet, Phra Ratchaniwet Mrigadayawan. 12
This imposing monument which can be seen from virtually every nook and cranny has eventually become the emblem of Phetchaburi province. Being captivated by the prime location of “Mount Samon” offering fine vistas of Phetchaburi, King Rama IV or King Mongkut relished the idea of having a summer retreat constructed by his Defence Minister in 1859. This iconic landmark stretches along a verdant hill, covered in frangipani, with a total area of 600 rai (237 acres). Upon completion of his idyllic palace in 1862, the king officially named it “Phra Nakhon Khiri”, but it is more commonly known by the name “Khao Wang” which means “Mountain with a Palace”. Phra Nakhon Khiri is a shining example of how to harmoniously blend different styles of architecture. The palace complex comprises several buildings spreading over 3 peaks in clusters ranging from throne halls, royal residences, temples to pavillions. The mountaintop buildings can be classed as follows: The western peak, the highest one rising to 95 metres, is intended for the royal residences. The largest colonial-style building called “Phra Thinang Phetphum Phairot” was originally the audience hall and later became a state house for royal guests. At present, this throne hall has been converted to a museum housing
Wat Phra Kaew Noi & Phra Sutthasela Chedi
the king’s collection of antiquities, royal regalia, fine foreign porcelains and glasswares. Adjacent to this part is a compact 2-storey Chinese-style hall called “Phra Thinang Pramote Mahaisawan”. Next door stands “Phra Thinang Wechayan Wichien Prasat” which is a Khmer-style five-spire corn-shaped castle where the bronze statue of King Rama IV is enshrined. The round tower with a glass dome-shaped roof and a spiral staircase standing opposite called “Chatchawan Wiang Chai” served as the Royal Observatory for King Rama IV who was a keen astronomer. About halfway to the other end of this hill is the middle peak where is perched a 40-metre bell-shaped chedi called “Phra That Chom Phet”. The old abandoned chedi was so damaged that King Rama IV commisionned extensive renovation and also had the Lord Buddha’s relics enshrined. On the eastern peak of Khao Wang is located the royal temple building
cluster, consisting of Wat Phra Kaew Noi, Phra Sutthasela Chedi, a belfry, a red Khmer-style pagoda. More specifically, this compound was modelled on the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, communicating to the Grand Palace. That is why the king needed to attend all his religious functions on this very spot during his stay at Khao Wang. Along the base of this hill, there were a theatre for dance drama performed by court ladies, a horse stable, a chariot garage, the kitchen, etc... On the east-facing slope near the foot of Khao Wang stands “Wat Maha Samanaram” which is renowned for tempera mural paintings by “Khrua In Khong”, a monk painter under King Mongkut’s patronage, who was the first Thai to use 3-dimensional perspective technique and preferred to paint realistic gestures. Since 1989, this complex has been made a Historical Park which is accessible on foot and by cable car as well.
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Phra Ram Ratchaniwet Palace
Originally called “Ban Puen Palace”, this glamourous western-style palace of King Chulalongkorn the Great or King Rama V is located on the west bank of the Phetchaburi River. Subsequent to the monarch’s second official visit to Europe in 1907, from which he probably drew inspiration, he contemplated staying in an alternative retreat where he could feel really at peace during the rainy season. Bearing in mind that the construction ought to be funded out of his own coffers, he looked for a city-centre location and finally acquired some land from common people. To undertake such a royal project, Mr. Karl Siegfried Döhring, a German architect and engineer working with the Ministry of Interior, was charged with designing and overseeing the construction. So it would appear that the ambience of Kaiser Wilhelm II’s castles is likely to pervade this new villa eternally. Phra Ram Ratchaniwet features a two-storey high-ceilinged building whose architectural style is highly influenced by both Jugendstil or German Art Nouveau and Baroque. Due to Döhring’s determination to be tailor-made, none of his works became a faithful reproduction. From afar, the Wang Ban Puen resembles vaguely to a theatre designed by Oskar Kaufmann, 14
who was universally popular in those days. It has a rectangular floor plan, with a steep mansard roof above the front façade and a partially glazed cupola perched on the circular hall attached to the right wing. The interior of the palace looks bright and spacious. The ground floor contains a number of rooms including the dining room and the Throne Hall. The double spiral staircases leading to the second floor are ornately adorned with hugh ceramic cherubs along the banisters. The well-manicured courtyard, said to have housed the first badminton court, features a fountain.
The construction commenced in 1910, but unfortunately King Rama V passed away the same year, before its completion in 1916. The Wang Ban Puen was renamed “Phra Ram Ratchaniwet” by King Rama VI in 1918 to accommodate foreign state visitors. After that, it was utilised for many purposes. Currently it serves as a museum, managed by the 15th Military Circle.
Phra Ratchaniwet Mrigadayavan Palace
This elegant summer residence was erected in 1924 during the reign of King Vajiravudh or King Rama VI, featuring an interlinked series of 16 teak buildings, with tall louvred shutters and patterned fretwork, raised by concrete pillars. At that time, Ercole Manfredi, an Italian architect was entrusted with the challenging task of designing a villa to be as open ion and making the most of the seaside location so that the King Rama VI who had suffered from rheumatoid arthritis 7 years earlier was able to miraculously recover. At the first stage, the construction was made at the Chao Samran Beach and the King went there every summer for 6 consecutive years before experiencing some inconveniences, for instance lack of fresh water and long distance from the train station. Finally, he found a better
location in the Cha-am District and had his villa reconstructed on the site called “Huay Sai” which means “hog deer’s stream”. That is the reason why he named his residence in a shady relaxing garden after the deer park in India where the Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon. This palace structure consists of 3 building clusters destined for an audience hall, the men’s quarters and the ladies’ quarters respectively and is aligned parallel to the sea with a long corridor towards bathing pavillions at each end. At present, this palace is located within the grounds of Camp Rama VI under the Border Patrol Police Bureau. 15
Magnificent Temples Phetchaburi is an ideal place for temple enthusiasts to grasp the architectural wealth of the Kingdom of Thailand. This ancient town is often referred to as a “Living Ayutthaya”, considering that it remained quite intact whereas the former capital was plundered and burned during the war and dreadfully burned during the war with Burma. Exploring Phetchaburi will therefore provide us with an effective means to go back to a bygone era and see what the architecture and religious art was like in the old days. The significant point to note is that traditional 16
stucco art features prominently in decorating Phetchaburi temple to such an extent that it proves to be “Mueang Phet” craftmen’s identity.
Wat Mahathat Worawihan
As the name suggests, this royal temple seems to be Phetchaburi’s most revered one and additionally the most recognisable local architectural structure on account of the Lord Buddha’s relics enshrined in the 42 metre Khmer-style spire made of laterite and later covered in the white plaster, which is surrounded by four smaller Prangs. That is the reason why it is also known as “Phra Prang Ha Yod” or five-peak Prangs. Although the
founding date of this temple is imprecise, it is estimated that the Wat Mahathat dates back to the 11th or the 13th century. Opposite the main entrance stands the large Viharn, the assembly hall which houses the sacred “Luang Por Wat Mahathat”, a small Buddha image covered with gold leaf in subduing Mara posture carrying a praying fan in its left hand. The interior walls of this hall are richly adorned with colourful murals portraying scenes of daily life, battles and Buddhist stories. Next to the Viharn stands the Ubosot or ordination hall, which is relatively plain. However, the most striking feature of this temple consists in the front gable of the Viharn as well as the Ubosot decorated with intricate stucco works which are widely hailed as the masterpieces of the “Mueang Phet School”.
Stucco reliefs depicting the Hindu God Vishnu riding the Garuda which captures Nagas on the front gable of the Ubosot are picturesque and regarded as genuine Phetchaburi art. 17
Wat Yai Suwannaram
There is no doubt that the reputation of the so-called Wat Yai is unrivalled in various areas of the fine arts. This temple was erected during the late Ayutthaya period and underwent several renovations in the course of time. The largest scale of its restoration took place only in the reign of King Rama V the Great of the Rattanakosin period, with the result that the original artistic works of truly talented Ayutthaya masters can still be perceived. The historic building deserving close attention is the Sala Kanparian (multi-purpose hall) which King Sanphet VIII (Phra Chao 18
Sua) of the Ayutthaya Kingdom had his younger brother’s teak wooden mansion dismantled, moved from the capital by boat and finally reconstructed for ecclesiastical use as a token of faith in the Supreme Patriarch “Somdej Chao Tangmo” on his return to his hometown. This large pavillion with multi-tiered roofs is decorated with intricately carved panels with gold leaf
1: Sala Kanparian, 2: Old mural painting 3 : Inside of Sala Kanparian, 4: Wall of chapel 5: The principal Buddha image
as well as coloured glass insets at the doorways and octagonal pillars with different gilded black lacquer motifs. The use of such adornments gives this hall its harmonious, polychromatic effect. It also houses a spacious spired wood pulpit which is reckoned to be one of the country’s finest preaching seats and served as a supporting base for enshrining the Royal Funerary Urn of King Rama IX the Great on the Royal Pavillion Song Dhamma, adjacent to the Royal Crematorium in 2017. The windowless ordination hall features lovely murals depicting golden foliage, congregation of celestial beings, the Mara and the efforts of his troops to tempt the Lord Buddha. Besides, a Thai house-style scripture library stands on 3 stilts in the middle of a large pond.
Wat Phra Phutthasaiyat
The Reclining Buddha temple or the Wat Phra Non stands at the foot of the Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park. It is assumed that this temple was established during the Ayutthaya period. The gilded stucco Buddha image is hollow inside and has its soles adorned with numerous red auspicious motifs such as a Prasat, Brahma God, multi-tiered umbrella, crown, alms bowl, water jar, conche shell, elephant, etc… It measures approximately 43 metres long and is ranked 4th in Thailand. This Buddha image was originally situated outdoors. The Wat Phra Non was utterly abandoned until the reign of King Rama IV. He ordered to have a tin roof built as a shelter for the statue. It is in the reign of King Rama V the Great that the reclining Buddha was sheltered with tile roofing and encircled by the wall as seen today. 19
PHETCHABURI CITY MAP : แผนที่ตัวเมืองเพชรบุรี
รี ัฐ นนคีร
d. ถ yR
a Rd.ถ
Na Mon Rd.ถนนนามอญ
ยา
Phokarong
Rd. ถนนโพธ
ิการอง
นทาหนิ Tha Hin Rd.ถน
. ถนนบรพิฒ ั น
Boriphat R d
kase m Rd.ถนนดำเนินเกษม
Suraphan Rd.ถนนสุรพันธ D a m n oe n
นราชดำริ
Ratchadamri Rd. ถน
Irrigation Canal คลองชลประธาน
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lwa Rai
t ay Khiri Rat
Go To Smart Map
นนร ถไฟ
Important Places 1 Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace พระนครคีรี (เขาวัง) 2. Wat Phra Phutthasaiyat วัดพระพุทธไสยาสน์ 3. Wat Mahathat Worawlhan วัดมหาธาตุวรวิหาร 4. Wat Yai Suwannaram วัดใหญ่สุวรรณาราม 5. Phrachomklao Hospital รพ.พระจอมเกล้าจังหวัดเพชรบุรี 6. Fort Ram Ratchaniwet Hospital รพ.ค่ายรามราชนิเวศน์ 7. Talad Rimnam Market ตลาด (เก่า) ริมน�้ำเพชรบุรี 8. Phetchaburi City Pillar Shrine ศาลหลักเมืองเพชรบุรี 9. Phetchaburi City Hall ศาลากลางจังหวัดเพชรบุรี 10. Phetchaburi Railway Station สถานีรถไฟเพชรบุรี 11. Wat Koh Kaew Suttharam วัดเกาะแก้วสุทธาราม 12. Wat Phlabphla Chai วัดพลับพลาชัย 13 Wat Khao Bandai lt วัดเขาบันไดอิฐ 14 Phra Ram Ratchaniwet พระรามราชนิเวศน์
Food Shops 1. Pa Uean’s Khaw Chae ข้าวแช่ป้าเอื้อน 2. Mae Orn’s Khaw Chae ข้าวแช่แม่อร 3. Mae Nid’s Khaw Chae ข้าวแช่แม่นิด 4. Pa On’s Khaw Chae ข้าวแช่ป้าอ่อนเจ้าเก่า 5. 133 Baan Khaw Chae 133 บ้านข้าวแช่ 6. Bua Pad Thai Fresh Water Prawns บัวผัดไทยกุ้งแม่น�้ำ 7. Pad Thai Tha Yang (Branch 2) ผัดไทยท่ายาง สาขา 2 8. Pa Boon’s Pad Thai ผัดไทยป้าบุญ 9. Jek Meng’s Kuay Tiaw Nam Daeng (Red Soup Noodles) ก๋วยเตี๋ยวน�้ำแดงเจ๊กเม้ง 10. Lung Long’s Kuay Tiaw Nam Daeng (Red Soup Noodles) ก๋วยเตี๋ยวน�้ำแดงลุงลอง 11. Nai Daeng’s Kuay Tiaw Moo (Red Soup Pork Noodles) นายแดงก๋วยเตี๋ยวหมูน�้ำแดง 12. Lung Noi’s Kuay Tiaw Neua (Beef Noodles) ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเนื้อลุงน้อย 13. Sorn Dej Pochana Kuay Tiaw Neua (Beef Noodles) ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเนื้อศรเดชโภชนา 14. Jek Arh’s Kuay Tiaw Neua ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเนื้อเจ๊กอ้า 15. Phen Phrik Ped Kuay Tiaw ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเพ็ญพริกเผ็ด 16. Jae Nok’s Beef Noodles ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเนื้อเจ๊นก 17. Kuay Tiaw Roea Boran Phribphree ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเรือโบราณพริบพรี 18. Pa Toy-Lung Lor’s Kuay Tiaw ก๋วยเตี๋ยวป้าต้อย ลุงหล่อ
19. Chao Khun’s Kuay Tiaw Pla (Fish Noodles) ก๋วยเตี๋ยวปลาเจ้าคุณ 20. Kuay Tiaw Kai Mara (Chicken Noodles) ก๋วยเตีย๋ วไก่มะระ 21. Kuay Tiaw Mordin Poh Taek Phetchaburi, Bubpha Rd. ก๋วยเตี๋ยวหม้อดินโป๊ะแตกเพชรบุรี สาขาถนนบุปผา 22. Kuay Jub Yuan Ubon (Vietnamese Rice Noodle Soup) ก๋วยจั๊บญวนอุบล 23. Khanom Jeen-Tod Mun Thong Chiang (Jae Pui) (Rice Noodles-Thai Fish Fritter) ขนมจีนทอดมันท่งเชียง (เจ้ปยุ้ ) 24. Nuch’s Khanom Jeen-Tod Mun (Rice Noodles-Thai Fish Fritter) ร้านนุชขนมจีนทอดมัน 25. Mae Jook’s Tod Mun Pla Krai (Thai Fish Fritter) ทอดมันปลากรายแม่จุก 26. Halal Kitchen (Baan Mai) ครัวฮาลาลจานเด็ด (บ้านใหม่) 27. Aah Ma’s Khao Tom (Boiled Rice) ข้าวต้มอาม่า 28. Moo Sate (Pork Sate) หมูสะเต๊ะหน้าเขาวัง 29. Rabieng Rimnam ระเบียงริมน�้ำ 30. Pa Oy’s Khanom Jeen (Rice Noodles) ขนมจีนป้าอ้อย หน้าสถานีกาชาด 31. Lom Huan’s Chicken Rice ข้าวมันไก่ ลมหวล 32. Jeam Leang Sia’s Khaw Moo Daeng (Rice with Roasted Red Pork) ข้าวหมูแดงเจียมเลี้ยงเซี้ย 33. Crispy Pan-fried Mussels หอยทอดหน้าวัดเกาะ 34. Kuay Jub (Rice Noodle Soup) ก๋วยจั๋บหน้าวัดมหาธาตุ 35. Kuay Tiaw Dedduang Ko Yuan ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเด็ดดวงโกหย่วน
Dessert Shops 1. Khanok Porn’s Lod Chong Singapore กนกพร ลอดช่องสิงคโปร์ 2. Naikee (Owe Tueng) ’s Lod Chong Nam Tan Khon ลอดช่องน�้ำตาลข้นโอวทึ้ง นายกี่ 3. Pa Im’s Khanom Wan ขนมหวานป้าอิม 4. Mae Lamiad’s Khanom Mor Kaeng ขนมหม้อแกงแม่ละเมียด 5. Baan Khanom Nunthawan บ้านขนมนันทวัน 6. Nok Noi’s Khanom Wan ร้านขนมหวานนกน้อย 7. Narumon’s Nam Tan Sod น�้ำตาลสดนฤมล 8. Baan Kru Pranee’s Dessert ขนมหวานบ้านครูปราณี 9. Pornchai Ice Cream พรชัยไอติมกะทิสด 10. Khanom Thai Lookjeab ขนมไทยลูกเจี๊ยบ 21
Communities
Cultural Heritage to Preserve
Viharn of Wat Phubphla Chai used as a learning centre housing leather shadow puppets, popular spectacle in old days
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The direct access to the sea was certainly a contributory factor which brought prosperity to Phetchaburi in bygone days. The fact that foreign merchants’ vessels kept on sailing into the Gulf of Siam and traded actively with the locals enabled this little port to fulfil its commercial potential and flourish more and more in the following Rattanakosin period. A flood of Chinese immigrants sought to settle in this fertile and arable land, bringing with them a bedroll and maybe a paltry sum. Owing to their stamina and business sense, these tradesmen were successful in embarking on their career. They set up house together along the banks of Phetchaburi River so as to form some close-knit local communities.
Klong Krachaeng Community
It is well worth going for a nostalgic stroll through the old shopping area called
opposite side is the small public park where the statue of “Sunthorn Phu” is located. Arriving at Phetchaburi by boat in 1845, this foremost poet disembarked around there and composed lyrical travel verses entitled “Klong Kracheang” as it can transport us “Nirat Phetchaburi”. Further on the same to ancient times when the city canal used narrow road, visitors can stop off at the to be jammed with barges covered with wooden house of the late author Manas canopy or “Rua Krachaeng”. The learning centre of this riverine community is situated at the Wat PhlabPhla Chai, ancient temple constructed in the late Ayutthaya period whose Viharn adorned with fine stucco designs, has been converted into a lovely leather shadow puppet museum. Moreover, a cultural youth group has created a series of workshops aimed at conserving local wisdom and sharing firsthand knowledge about paper art, stucco art, gilded black lacquer painting, banana trunk carving, Nang Yai shadow puppet-making etc. At the back door of the temple on the 23
cap. Further from the Wat Phlabphla Chai will be a favourite haunt of food-lovers.
Soi Talad Rimnam Community
As we observe, stepping even fleetingly into the middle of a market will paint us a picture in broad colourful brushstrokes. We will be tremendously impressed by a snapshot of the local people’s everyday lives, whether they can earn their living with ease or still feel some concern. Soi Talad Rimnam Community popularly referred to as “Talad Khao”, lying on the other bank of Klong Krachaeng opposite the Sunthorn Phu Park, was formerly a bustling and prosperous commercial quarter of Phetchaburi in the reign of King Rama V the Great. This narrow alley, bordered by rows of old houses and shops stretching along the market, occupies a key role in providing all residents with a wide variety of goods ranging from furniture, clocks, student uniforms, toys, kitchenware to ecclesiastical articles. Among the town’s mouth-watering local food stalls, Mae Orn’s
Chanyong and a private museum called “Baan Mitr Chaibuncha” displaying old photos, posters and 16 mm film rolls relating to this deceased male movie star. It seems that a calm and relaxed atmosphere prevails in this neighbourhood. By the side of the Klong Krachaeng lies the “Sombat Maenam Phet” Pier which means the treasure of the Phet chaburi River. This little museum displays earthenware and artefacts retrieved from the river bed, especially a collection of baked clay pots for palmyra palm sugar whose shape is used as pattern of civil servant 24
Khaw Chae (rice in fragrant chilled water served with fried shrimp paste ball, fried sweet radish and sweet stir-fried fish, Rapeeporn’s Chinese cake and Nai Daeng’s noodle soup are heartily recommended. In addition, the Tangsawatdirat Family House established a community learning centre destined for exhibiting articles used in Thai-Chinese community and rare vintage photos. Recently, a creative project was launched to enhance the aesthetic appearance of Phetchaburi by inviting street artists to flaunt their talent for urban graffiti. That is the reason why the Soi Talad Rimnam which is the dim empty space near Phra Chomklao Bridge was selected as venue for creation. The largest mural of this alley depicts King Rama IX’s head and shoulders portrait at the entire back wall. It should also be noted that cats are a recurring theme in several pieces of art because local illustrators owe their inspiration to numerous alley cats found in this community. 25
Wat Koh Community
As a main artery coursing through its east bank, the Phetchaburi River gave rise to the 300 year Wat Koh Community which united people to live together in peace regardless of race and religion. All people arrived at the consensus that Wat of this multicultural community. In this Koh would become the vibrant centre community, most of the houses are sino-colonial style architecture. The Koh Kaew Suttharam Temple, commonly known as “Wat Koh”, is hidden in an isolated tranquil corner of Phetchaburi. Its ordination hall or the Ubosot was built in the Ayutthaya style. The hall consists in the murals which are widely hailed as one of the masterpieces and still remain in fairly well-preserved state. An inscription 26
appearing on the wall indicates that its creation took place in 1734. Unlike the usual arrangement of the themes from the Lord Buddha’s lifestory, the front mural of the Ubosot depicts 3 mythical worlds as conceived in Buddhist cosmology whereas the back mural features the scene of the Lord Buddha subduing the Mara. The north and south murals also portray a series of pagodas and the Buddha in various postures, composed alternatively in rows, complemented by some outstanding images of foreign people like Westerners and Persians in their national attire. Such murals painted with pigment powder convey great refinement and exquisite details. Owing to its balanced blend of Thai and Chinese cultures, this community
boasts not only Buddhist temples, but also a Chinese charitable cantine called “Hak Sian Zian Tiung” founded in 1907, which was formerly the joss house much revered by the Hokkiens. Further in the heart of this quarter is situated a dessert shop owned by Kru Pranee whose ancestors were rice and palm sugar dealers during the reign of King Rama IV. She enjoys a long-standing reputation for 2 rare sweets called A-lua and Khaw Tu. In the same neighbourhood at No. 368 of the Panich Charoen Road, it is worth visiting Mrs. Nueng Faengseekham’s wooden house.As a guru goldsmith, her intricately carved gold patterns stand out for their ancient craftsmanship. She was honoured as 2012 National Artist for craftsmanship of gold ornaments.
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Marvels
of Local food
Kuay Tiaw Nam Daeng Its originality lies in fullflavoured red soup, seasoned with various spices, Chinese herbs and above all crude palm sugar. 28
The journey is never complete without all manner of foodstuffs which await us from dawn till dusk at the heart of Phetchaburi. These food shops have become a legend due to a wealth of experience they gained and have spent ages concocting different flavourful recipes. Three “signature dishes” which are given the thumbs up by Phetcha buri locals are Kuay Tiaw Nam Daeng, Khanom Jeen Tod Mun and Pad Thai Mueang Phet.
Savoury Dishes
Kuay Tiaw Nam Daeng (Rice noodles in red soup) This tasty dish features a Chinese-style noodle soup, mixed with a wide choice of meat ranging from sliced pork, stewed pork, braised beef to boiled fish. Some good places to go are Nai Daeng Shop, Jek Meng Shop, Phen Phrik Phed Shop, Ko Yuan’s Ded Duang Shop, etc...
Khanom Jeen Tod Mun (Fermented rice noodles with fritter) It is typical of Phetchaburi locals to long for this favourite dish in the morning as it successfully combines Tod Mun, red curry-flavoured fish fritter with Khanom Jeen, fermented rice-flour noodles. Traditionally, this dish is accompanied with sweet and sour sauce or with cucumber and onion in vinegar. At present, it is also possible to serve it together with a bowl of curry at the restaurant Thong Chiang, or better known as Jae Pui’s Shop, located near the Maha That Temple.
Pad Thai Mueang Phet (Thai-style fried noodles of Phetchaburi) This Thai-style stir-fried rice noodles, finished with eggs, bean curd, bean sprouts, dried shrimps, and seasoned with fish sauce, sugar, peanut, tamarind and powdered chilies has become a star attraction for Thai cuisine. Among well-known restaurants Pad Thai Tha Yang in Tha Yang District and Pad Thai Pa Somboon near the Wat Maha That, crowned as a provincial champion of Pad Thai Contest, are both recommended. 30 29
Khaw Chae Mueang Phet
Tasty Snacks
Supposing that you feel like eating and look for an amuse-bouche in Phetchaburi, there are at least 3 tasty snacks you can eat between meals without ruining your appetite.
This rice in iced water is a refreshing light snack earnestly recommended for unseasonably hot day. For simplified Phetchaburi’s recipe, its scented chilled rice is served with fried shrimp paste ball, fried sweet radish and sweet stir-fried fish. This longtime favourite is still available at several food shops including Khaw Chae Mae Orn, Khaw Chae Mae Nid, Khaw Chae Pa Uean.
Kuay Jub This rice noodle soup is famous
for its delicious chunky broth, mixed with fresh pork entrails, crispy pork skin, seasoned with spring onions and coriander and cooked on traditional stove until it is fragrant and succulent. You can taste such a quite copious snack at a noodle shop near the Wat Maha That.
Hoy Tod Thai crispy pan-fried mussels
seem to be one of the most popular street food of Thailand. This snack is similar to a seafood omelette added with bean sprouts. Most of food-lovers are fond of its chewy 30
and crunchy texture. The spicy and sour sauce wil enhance the overall flavour of the dish. The good place to go for this is the restaurant called Jae Ngam Hoy Tod.
Desserts (or “Khanom” in Thai)
Phetchaburi is always what most of people think of a paradise of desserts, ingredients are rice flour, coconut milk and thanks to the palm sugar which is a basic egg, seasoned with black sesame seed. At present, it can be modified to be soft ingredient of many Thai sweets. Khanom Mor Kaeng This soft, sweet, like the crepe. Due to it auspicious name egg-yolk-based treat which includes which means “rolled gold”, people like traditional Thai ingredients coconut to offer it as a gift, symbolising wishes for milk and palm sugar and starch in the wealth. The best place to buy this dessert form of taros and mung beans owes its is Thong Muan Thip in Tha Yang District. reputation to Maria Guyomar de Pinha who introduced this recipe to King Narai’s court in the 17th century. This mouthwatering dessert is available at several shops, such as Mor Kaeng Mae Pin and Mor Kaeng Mae Lamiad.
Lod Chong Nam Tan Khon This fantastic
sweet is one of the most popular street vendor desserts. As the name describes what happens when we push hot and sticky dough through small holes and how its leaks out as long worm-like green noodles. For Phetchaburi locals, these noodles will be accompanied with scented coconut and palm syrup, topped with crushed ice. Now it is also possible to add more flattering toppings Thong Muan This Thai snack is similar such as jellied coconut to a crispy rolled sweet wafer coming flesh, sliced jackfruit, red in a cigar-shaped form. Its traditional bean, etc... 31
Phetchaburi means “the City of Diamonds” This gem reflects traditional way of life, imbued with the aromas and flavours which you will highly appreciate.
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Fantastic Phetchaburi 3 Flavours : Created by the research project titled the Community Development Model with Creative and Sustainable Tourism to Promote Phetchaburi Province as a Creative City, funded by National Research Council of Thailand (NRCT). Copyright © 2021 by Silpakorn University International College, All rights reserved. ISBN: 978-974-641-786-0
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