Cellar Door Issue 23: Northern Italy

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Cellar Door Wine a n d p o ss i b i l i t i e s b y Ba n v i l le & J o n e s W i n e Co.

EXPLORE NORTHERN ITALY Issue 23 February 2016 – May 2016

Visit our local showroom at 343 Gunn Road www.GenuwineCellars.com | 204.668.8101

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contents Features

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22 The Royalty of Northern Italy: Piedmont and Veneto Mike Muirhead and Sylvia Jansen tour you around two of Northern Italy’s regal wine regions.

36 Living Abbiocco: The Best of la Bella Vita The only thing Andrea Eby loves more than wine is Italian wine: explore the remarkable food and wine of her other home.

42 A Taste of Northern Italy 42

Jill Kwiatkoski, Rebecca Lechman, and Steve Lagimodiere find the perfect wine pairings for the cozy comfort foods of Northern Italy.

48 Rooted Evolution: An Interview with Angelo Gaja Gary Hewitt speaks to pioneer winemaker Angelo Gaja, whose visionary techniques put Barbaresco on the map.

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Cover: Barbaresco vineyards at dusk

www.banvilleandjones.com 5

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contents Columns 10 A Message from Tina Jones

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12 Ask a Sommelier 16 Banville & Jones and Company 20 Behind the Label Azienda Agricola Reassi

26 Chef Profile Scott Bagshaw, Deseo, Enoteca, Máquè

28 Gluggy Top wines under $15

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30 Gary’s Corner Trentino-Alto Adige: Ein bisschen Deutsch, un po’ Italiano

34 Trending Quick: Slow down

52 Banville & Jones Wine Institute 54 Banville & Jones Wine & Food Events 58

58 Sidebar Raising the bar

60 Culinary Partners 62 Top Picks

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The South African Platter’s Guide’s ultimate accolade went to Mullineux Family Wines, which was awarded Winery of the Year for 2016 and 2014. Winemakers Chris and Andrea Mullineux have driven their family winery to the forefront of South African wines, making Mullineux a frontrunner in consumers’ minds.

Chris and Andrea were involved in the beginning of the Swartland Revolution in South Africa. It altered the world’s opinion not only of this hitherto unknown enclave of the Cape, but quickly dismantled perceptions of the South African wine industry.

Chris and Andrea Mullineux became figureheads in the revolution of South African wines, alongside Eben Sadie and Adi Badenhorst—a unity that has been crucial in challenging prejudices against South Africa. Together, they have awoken a new era at home and abroad: that South Africa can produce world-class, terroir-driven wines.

Winnipeggers Paul and Shirley Martens first visited South Africa in 1996. Thus began a love of the South African people, culture, and their imminently drinkable wines! They formed Blend Imports and return each year to explore South Africa’s boutique and family-focused wineries, bringing the most interesting and affordable wines back to Manitoba to share with you.

 Straw 2011 ($33.99): Platter 5 stars  Syrah 2009 ($44.99): Platter 5 stars This perfumed Syrah has notes of black pepper, refined black fruit, smoke, and herbs. The palate is complex, full bodied and spicy, with a silky texture and a balanced natural acidity. The finish is fresh and surprisingly long and supple.

White Blend 2011 ($38.99): Platter 4.5 stars Uncompromising focus and balance, with intriguing layers of texture and aroma, and a long, gracious finish. This wine has a nose of crushed rocks, green citrus, cloves, and a floral perfume. The palate is full, rich, and has a mineral core, with a fresh, clove-like finish.

Towering sweetness, impossible concentration, yet elegant and balanced.

With a deep golden straw colour, the nose is a complex, enticing blend of dried peaches, apricots and marmalade, with savory, nutty aromas of almonds, marzipan, and honey. Limited quantities are available exclusively at Banville & Jones.

 Kloof Street Rouge 2009 ($28.99): Platter 4 stars This seductive blend of Southern Rhône varieties has a perfumed nose of violets, spice, and purple fruit. The mediumto-full bodied, food-friendly palate is finely textured with firm but approachable tannins and a fresh, lingering finish.

Chris and Andrea Mullineux

Frescolio is thrilled to be part of the vibrant community on St Mary’s Rd.

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Hello South Winnipeg!

Cellar Door Editorial Director Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Editorial Board Tina Jones, Andrea Eby, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Mike Muirhead

Graphic Design Ryan Germain | ryan.germain@gmail.com Advertising Sales Director Vanessa Shapiro vanessa@poisepublications.com Contributors Tina Jones, Todd Antonation, Pauline Boldt, Jan de Vlaming, Andrea Eby, Carol Fletcher, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Jill Kwiatkoski, Steve Lagimodiere, Rebecca Lechman, Paul Martens, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Rob Stansel, John Paul Tavares, Jenny VanDenDriessche, Renée Vincent Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co.

by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com

For advertising information, please contact vanessa@poisepublications.com

In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. It is located in a three-storey Tuscaninspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room.

Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 ph. 204-948-9463 www.banvilleandjones.com

2-929 Corydon Ave 204-505-1455 5-1604 St Mary’s Rd 204-615-3558 frescolio.ca Open Tuesday through Sunday

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699 Broadway Hours: Monday-Thursday 8:00 am to 8:00 pm Friday, Saturday & Sunday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm | Phone: 204.786.2727 Visit our new Satellite Clinic at 5-871 Waverley St Hours: 8:00 am to 4:30 pm (Monday, Wednesday and Friday) Phone: 204.786.2727

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Photo by Pauline Boldt

a message from tina jones TINA’S FAVES Anything from Cantina Terlano in Alto Adige!! Their wines are elegant, complex and uncompromisingly good!

Enjoying a glass of wine on a big city street café, and just watching the people go about their business in the off-season (fall or winter).

The Northern Italians have a sense of fashion and style that is simply astounding.

The city of Padova/Padua: the food scene is fantastic!

The mountains! The home town of my Dad, Pierluigi Tolaini, is Castelnuovo Di Garfagnana, near the Cinque Terre. It made me fall in love with the Italian mountains!

The beauty and fun (and challenge) of driving in the north. Even a rental car feels like fun, with alternating dark tunnels and stunning scenery!

When thinking about the striking features of Italy’s north, it’s hard to know exactly where to begin! It is the simple elegance of the people and the places. It is the stately beauty about the city vibes in both Milan and Turin. It is the eternal attraction of Venice.

There is something special in each small city and town. And it is the multicultural effect of the multiple languages spoken along the borders of France, Switzerland, and Austria.

Welcome to Northern Italy. Many iconic symbols of the best of Europe are here: the fashion and the opera of Milan, Cinque Terre, lake country, Venice, the Alps. In the wine scene, Piedmont lays claim to famous Barolo and Barbaresco; Veneto gives us rich and full Amarone and tons-of-fun Prosecco; and there are unique wines that are full of character everywhere. But there is so much more to the north! Clearly, the understated passion that is uniquely Northern Italy has also captured our staff wine lovers and writers— there was no shortage of material for this issue! The challenge was narrowing down what we wanted to share with you.

Our tour of the north includes some of these iconic places. Mike Muirhead and Sylvia Jansen sample Piedmont and Veneto; Andrea Eby explores some fantastic places to eat; Gary Hewitt explains how Trentino-Alto Adige became a fascinating blend of German and Italian; and we share some of our Northern Italian friends’ recipes with you. We hope you enjoy it all, and we want to inspire your exploration of this fascinating part of the wine world!

Salut!

Tina Jones

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ask a sommelier What does it mean when someone says a wine has “good acidity”?

—Andrew Stewart

Dear Andrew, Sometimes when we talk about something all the time, we don’t realize when we are applying easy terms to a very complex concept.

Such is the case with “good acidity.”

A balance of fruit, tannin, sweetness, and acidity has always been the Holy Grail for winemakers. This occurs in varying degrees for different wines— for example, many wines have no residual sugar, and many white wines have no tannins.

For wine nerds, the term “good acidity” is something that is inherent in all good wines. Acidity holds wines together, refreshes the pallet, and adds to the longevity of the wine.

It is the mouth-watering effect that occurs on the sides of your mouth. To have “good acidity” is to have what the taster feels is appropriate for the grape and style. Riesling should have brisk acidity, and Merlot should have enough that the wine doesn’t feel flat.

Next time you are tasting, look for that acidity and see if it is in “balance” with the fruit and the tannin; ideally, it doesn’t stand out, keeps your mouth refreshed, and adds to the overall enjoyment of the wine.

Dear Ann, A nice glass of red wine can be a great winter beverage! White wine lovers often find that tannins, weight, and alcohol levels are what they don’t like in red wines. Tannins come from grape skins, which reds have and whites do not (and rosés only slightly), so red wines can seem quite grippy and drying. Sometimes texture and alcohol levels can also be a bit much.

pairing, or to start with the wine and then find the best paired dish. The second book I recommend is What to Drink with What You Eat by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. This one is like a great big encyclopedia of food and wine pairing (it also has an app, but it is only compatible with iPhones).

A low-tannin, lighter-bodied red can have an attractive smoothness and weight for white lovers, so I would recommend Pinot Noir or good quality Beaujolais (Gamay) as lovely choices. Banville & Jones even carries an Oregon Pinot Noir (Underwood) in a 375 ml can if you want to hedge your bets! Some Barbera wines from Italy are also good choices. Before you make a final selection, though, be sure to ask for help—some Pinot Noir and Barbera wines in particular can pack a punch!

—Sylvia Jansen

I really love cooking, and I really love wine. Are there any apps or books you can recommend that will help me pair wine properly with my meals?

—George Tearns

Dear George,

For on-the-go information, I love the app called Pair It. You can pair by food first or wine first, but my favourite part of the app is called Swirl It, which is like a slot machine. Make it spin and it will stop on an option for you to try.

Swirl It also gives you the option to lock in a wine and only spin the food side and vice versa. Very fun indeed!

—Saralyn Mehta

—Mike Muirhead

I drink mostly white and dry rosé wines. I wouldn’t mind trying a nice red every now and again in the winter months. Can you recommend any gateway reds for a mostly white wine drinker?

—Ann Hanes

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There are so many great reference books out there for food and wine pairings, but there are two that really stand out for me. The first is Wine with Food by Joanna Simon. It has great, easy-to-read information about regional food and wine pairings as well as a quick reference section that gives you the option to either pick the food first and then find the wine

IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION FOR OUR SOMMELIERS, TEXT US BETWEEN 9 AM AND 9 PM AT 204.400.0499 OR FIND US ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER @BANVILLEJONES.

Showroom: 969 Fife Street, Winnipeg 204.586.2794 I www.yarrow.mb.ca

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Dr. Ines Guedes and Dr. R. Bruce McFarlane

Dr. Bruce McFarlane

Village Orthodontics Mission Statement: At Village Orthodontics, we believe your orthodontic care is a very personal experience. Your relationship with your doctor and all of the staff is caring and focused. Detail, passion, evaluation and technology are all used to chart the course to complete orthodontic health for you and your family.

By Glen Dawkins

Dr. R. Bruce McFarlane likes to use a golf analogy when describing the advances that have been made in the field of orthodontics.

“If you pull out a steel club and try to knock the cover off the ball, the ball doesn’t go very far,” said Dr. McFarlane. “But if you pull out a titanium club with a nice easy swing, a beautiful follow-through and you’re patient, it just sails.”

“I figured that out in orthodontics but not in golf. I still want to knock the cover off the ball!”

The Village Orthodontics Winnipeg office celebrated its 10th anniversary at the Taylor Avenue location in September.

Village Orthodontics also has practices in Mississauga, Toronto, Niagara Falls, Guelph, Oakville, Brampton and Thornhill, Ont. “On a number of different fronts, orthodontic research has allowed us to understand more about the science of tooth movement and one of the big things that has come out is how lower force levels actually move teeth considerably more efficiently, with less possible damage to teeth and supporting structures and with less pain,” said Dr. McFarlane, who graduated with a Doctorate of Dental Medicine from the University of Manitoba in 1984 and from the University of Western Ontario in 1992 as a Specialist in Orthodontics.

“The braces themselves have gotten a lot smaller, less conspicuous and more comfortable, especially with children where we still use a lot of the metal braces on the outside of teeth,” said Dr. McFarlane. “But we also do a lot of tooth-coloured braces and we have tooth-coloured wires as well.”

With the addition of Dr. Ines Guedes in July, the Village Orthodontics Winnipeg office has two orthodontists plus a staff of 10.

“I think we’re on the cutting edge in orthodontics,” said Dr. Guedes, who received her Doctorate in Dental Surgery at the top of her class in her native Brazil before being accepted into the TMJ disorders and orofacial pain Master of Science program at the University of Alberta in Edmonton where she also taught as clinical instructor in the Dental Faculty and TMD/Orofacial Pain Graduate program. “Also we have a staff that is very focused and friendly and attentive to individual patient needs.”

After her time in Edmonton, Dr. Guedes moved to Winnipeg to join the Orthodontic Graduate Program at the University of Manitoba. Dr. Guedes had braces herself when she was younger and the experience inspired her to help both young and adult patients to achieve their dream smiles.

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“Braces improved my smile and gave me confidence,” she said. “It was life changing and I wanted to pass that on to (her patients).”

As well as the traditional metal and porcelain braces, Village Orthodontics offers lingual or on-the-tongue-side braces and clear Invisalign® removable aligners which offer dental correction without the ‘tin grin’ stigma.

“We find that (they are popular) especially with adult patients who want to get straight teeth but don’t want to advertise to the world what they’re up to. They’re certainly good for that,” Dr. McFarlane said.

There’s a lot less stigma attached to (having braces) than when I was a kid for sure.

“There’s a lot less stigma attached to (having braces) than when I was a kid for sure.”

Village Orthodontics boasts all of the latest new technologies and innovations. The practice uses optical scanners to create digital images and x-rays which are a lot better for the patient in terms of radiation and exposure.

They also utilize AcceleDent—a simple-to-use hands-free device designed for faster orthodontic treatment which sends vibrations through the bone for 20 minutes a day—as well as Propel, a micro-invasive option able to accelerate orthodontics by stimulating more cellular activity in the bone thus speeding up the movement of teeth.

It’s all about making the process faster and more comfortable.

“We strive to make it a lot of fun around here,” he said.

“Nowadays, orthodontics has become less threatening and less painful. We celebrate the final results every day with our patients.”

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banville & jones and company

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Friends of Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1. Banville & Jones staff welcome Paul Linder of Langmeil Winery, Barossa Valley; 2. Gary Hewitt, Norman Gladstone of International Cellars and Mike Muirhead; 3. Andrea Eby with Linda Hansen, Antonio de Lilla, and Carmello Grano of Trinchero Family Estates, Italy; 4. Chef Eraj Jayawickreme of VG at the Fairmont and his culinary team at the annual Gold Medal Plates Team Canada fundraiser; 5. The Merchant Kitchen’s Eric Lee with Todd Antonation’s award-winning pairing at Gold Medal Plates; 6. Mike Muirhead and wine writer Ben McPhee-Sigurdson; 7. Canadian wine legend Harry McWatters with Tina Jones in the Okanagan; 8. Sylvia Jansen and Fabio Contato, CàMaiol, Lugana, Italy.

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14 Friends of Banville & Jones Wine Co. 9. Tolaini Estates winery manager Diego Bonato; 10. Andrea Eby with Guido Carlo Alleva of Tenuta Santa Caterina Winery, Italy; 11. Claudio Fenocchio of Giacomo Fenocchio, Italy; 12. Sommelier Christopher Sprague of 529 Wellington, Mon Ami Louis Chef Luc Jean, and Doug Stephen of WOW! Hospitality; 13. Veronica Crosara, Chris Macey, and Giulia Pellegrini at Tolaini Estates, Tuscany; 14. Gaetano Marangelli and Elizabeth Rubino of Cantina Menhir, in Puglia, Italy, with Jill Kwiatkoski and Gary Hewitt.

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YALI WILD SWAN SAUVIGNON BLANC A beautiful blend of citrus and tropical fruit with aromas of lime, grapefruit, pineapple and pear, enjoy with salads, fish, seafood, or just on its own.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON Deep in color, the fresh raspberries, blueberries, and black current intermingle with notes of vanilla and chocolate with a silky mouth feel, enjoy with ripe cheeses, pasta, or with just friends.

The wild black swans at El Yali bring beauty to this sanctuary; in the same way, this line of wines will bring beauty to your dinner table. Fresh, fruity and easy to drink wines.

KALFU KUDA PINOT NOIR This smooth, delicate wine has balanced acidity and rounded tannins, which lends elegance to its fresh and fruity style.

Gentle notes of vanilla and dried fruit finish nicely, enjoy with oily fish such as seabass, pasta, or just on its own.

SAUVIGNON BLANC Elegant and well structured, this wine is fresh with grapefruit and pineapple, its great acidity contributes to a clean mouth feel and finish. Refreshing on its own also amazing with salads, fish and seafood.

Feel the ocean - Taste the blue - Try Kalfu

behind the label: Azienda Agricola Reassi

By Andrea Eby, CSW, D-WSET, Sommelier

Reassi nv Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei DOCG $22.99

Reassi 2013 Antichi Reassi Pinello Colli Euganei DOC $19.99

A great benefit of our association with Tolaini Estates is that we have had the opportunity to get to know many of the winery staff members and their families. One of our favourites is winery manager Diego Bonato. Diego’s family has been growing vines and making wines in the beautiful Veneto area of Italy for over one hundred years, and we are thrilled to carry a selection of his family’s wines. Specializing in grapes indigenous to their special area, known as Colli Euganei, the winery has grown with the family and is now run by three brothers and their families. Trained as an oenologist, Diego’s experience has been instrumental in the unceasing rise in quality that has helped to elevate the wines of the estate.

The Bonato family carefully tends six hectares of vineyards that hug the slopes of Mount Madonna, one of many extinct volcanoes that dot the bucolic landscape. Originally known as Callegaro Francesca, the winery has recently rebranded itself to reflect the importance of their unique terroir and is now known as Azienda Agricola Reassi, Reassi referring to the ancient clay soils in which their vines grow.

Reassi Antichi Reassi Pinello Colli Euganei DOC Crafted from the unique and rare Pinello grape variety, this delicious sparkling wine is the perfect choice as an aperitif or alongside various fish and seafood dishes. Made in the same way as a Prosecco, this frizzante wine shares many of the same qualities: delicate notes of pear, peach, and pineapple with

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Reassi nv Marzemino Vino Spumante Dolce VdT $22.99

hints of jasmine and acacia. With just a touch of sweetness left to balance the fresh acidity, the Antichi Reassi is wonderfully refreshing and is sure to be a hit at any gathering.

Reassi nv Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei DOCG So fragrant and delicious is the Moscato clone from this area of Italy that it has been awarded its own unique name.

Fior d’Arancio translates as “orange blossom” in Italian and alludes to the beautiful floral notes that this aromatic grape possesses. Crafted into a fully sparkling wine, the Fior d’Arancio is sure to appeal to lovers of Moscato and other sweet wines. Those who tend to shy away from sweeter expressions would be advised to enjoy this wine with your next Sunday brunch or alongside a delicious dessert.

Reassi nv Marzemino Vino Spumante Dolce VdT Marzemino may be a grape variety unfamiliar to many, but it is yet another treasure of the Veneto region. Deep and dark, the Reassi Marzemino is redolent of black cherries, blackberries, and a lovely mulled wine spiciness. This red sparkling wine strikes a fine balance between sweetness and grip, with a hint of drying tannin balancing the grapey sweetness. Frothy and fun, this wine is the perfect accompaniment to chocolate and other flavourful desserts. Fans of Roscato take note: this could be your new favourite wine! 

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The Alps oversee the vineyards of Piedmont (photo by Rostislav Glinsky)

The Royalty of Northern Italy: Piedmont and Veneto

By Mike Muirhead, CSW, Sommelier and Sylvia Jansen, D-WSET, CSW, Sommelier If you wanted to go to a place where snow-capped mountains loom on the horizon; where little villages perch on steep slopes; where well-heeled city dwellers take in opera in a Roman arena or legendary theatre; where alpine lakes glisten; and where wine styles can be fizzy and sweet, powerful and aromatic, concentrated and heady, or anything in between‌we would take you to Italy’s north.

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The two regal regions of Northern Italy are Piedmont and Veneto: Piedmont leads with the largest vineyard area in Italy devoted to quality wine (DOC/DOP and DOCG wines), whereas Veneto dominates by its sheer volume of production, the largest of any Italian region. The other six regions of Northern Italy are tiny by comparison, even though all produce quality wine with well-deserved reputations.

Piedmont Its name speaks to its location, at the “foot of the mountains.” Piedmont’s history as home to the former Kingdom of Savoy has given it a slightly different flavour from other parts of Italy. There is a quiet edge of sophistication about it. The capital Turin boasts close to 20 km of portico-covered sidewalks along grand avenues, thanks to a Savoy king who did not like to get wet while walking outdoors. These porticoes still protect lovely sidewalk cafés and fashionable Torinesi from rain.

A short drive southeast from Turin are the fabled Barolo and Barbaresco, small towns with large reputations.

Their vineyards reflect the prosperity and cultural influences of the capital. Like their neighbours in France, Piedmont’s wine producers have made tremendous progress in identifying choice vineyards and the bestsuited winemaking techniques. Wines from Barolo and Barbaresco are among the noblest Italy has to offer, drawing from the historical importance of “wine for kings, king of wines.” These are wines made from Nebbiolo, a grape variety that produces wines of high tannin and acidity, yet with captivating aromatic and taste qualities.

But the most famous grape variety is by no means the most widely planted. This distinction goes to Barbera (which is the wine that Piedmontese love for everyday enjoyment). Barbera has two main styles, one light, with a cherry fruit core and an easy approachability when young; and a more serious, oak-aged complex

WE RECOMMEND FROM PIEDMONT: Gaja 2011 Sito Moresco $79.99 Sandrone 2012 Barbera d’Alba $48.99 Col dei Venti 2014 Primifiori Cortese $19.99

Turin

Asti Gavi

Barolo Barbaresco

wine. Dolcetto, another native red variety, also drinks well young and produces round, gently aromatic wines.

Piedmont also produces the polar opposite of Barolo and Barbaresco: the white, sweet, effervescent, low-alcohol wines Moscato d’Asti and Asti.

As if all this were not enough, Piedmont also offers a smaller amount of stylish still white wines from native white varieties Cortese (Gavi di Gavi) and Arneis from the Roero region. Varieties such as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are available, but the main focus is Italian varieties.

Veneto In fair Verona, where we lay our scene . . .Yes, Veneto is the region that inspired Shakespeare and still hosts tourists by the millions in Verona and Venice. Although Veneto produces the popular Pinot Grigio, it is also home to some of Italy’s most famous wines: Soave, Prosecco, Valpolicella, and its big(ger) siblings Ripasso and Amarone.

Directly east of Verona, in hills surrounding the village of Soave, are seas of the white grape Garganega (pronounced Gar-GAH-nay-gah) dotted by islands of Trebbiano and Chardonnay. These wines are known for their dry, crisp easy-drinking style, though some producers create interesting oak-aged, long-lived styles.

Between the two towns of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano lies the heart of Prosecco production. A term protected by law (like Champagne in France), Prosecco is produced from the Glera grape variety. Prosecco is iconic: travel throughout Italy and the regional wine will be on the table. Dinner everywhere starts with a bottle of soft, bubbly Prosecco!

The valleys north of Verona produce wine styles emulated the world over, but never duplicated. The region of Valpolicella is both simple and complex, like its wine styles. Produced from the main grapes of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Molinara, the winemaking really dictates the style. In its most humble form, Valpolicella is a fresh bright red made to drink young.

Amarone della Valpolicella is the region’s queen of wines (let Piedmont have their king). Amarone is produced by harvesting the grapes and leaving them to dry in shallow airing racks throughout the winter, allowing moisture to evaporate, concentrating both flavours and sugars.

The resulting wines are rich, powerful and long-lived.

To work up to Amarone (in style and price), wine lovers can try Valpolicella Ripasso. Ripasso is made by repassing (“ripasso”) Valpolicella with drained Amarone grape skins and pulp left over from the fermentation of Amarone for extra punch and character. 

FROM VENETO, WE RECOMMEND: Remo Farina 2013 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore $21.99 Tedeschi 2014 Soave $18.99 Siro Merotto 2013 Prosecco Superiore $21.99

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Amarone della Valpolicella grapes on drying racks

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Verona

Soave

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chef profile Scott Bagshaw,

Deseo, Enoteca and Máquè Photos by Ian McCausland

Scott Bagshaw has spent years in the kitchen, putting in his time, travelling, learning his craft, and studying under masters. Bagshaw first threw his chef’s hat into Winnipeg’s culinary ring with Deseo Bistro. Originally located in the historic Royal Albert Arms Hotel in the Exchange, its permanent home on South Osborne has become a regular stop on the food circuit. When the perfect storm of location and concept converged in 2014, Scott opened Enoteca, which, among many accolades, made it onto enRoute's list of Canada’s Best New Restaurants in 2015. Not one to rest on his laurels, Scott opened up his newest culinary adventure in January: Máquè is a contemporary Chinese restaurant located on Stafford Street.

How did you come to be a chef?

I always worked in kitchens, but it wasn’t until I graduated from university that I thought about what actually made me happy and what I wanted to do. What excited me was the creativity and hard work of being in a kitchen. I get to work with my hands, be physical, but also think and be creative.

There aren’t a lot of jobs where you get to do all of that.

Was food important growing up?

My dad is the cook, and we always sat together as a family and had a proper dinner, no matter what was happening, or who was fighting. My dad loves cooking, and he travelled up north a lot, so he brought back lobster and lots of ingredients that were really interesting for the time.

What is the next big trend?

I don’t do trends. I see a lot of people trying to be the next big thing, but why don’t you just be a restaurant? Trends are a path of least resistance. I just wish people would go, “I am going to open a restaurant, and we’re going to make good food.”

Is there an ingredient that you work with that you are currently excited about?

I have been on the black garlic kick forever. It’s garlic that has been fermented and has a sweet, nutty, almost caramelized flavour. It is super versatile and adds a nice dimension to dressings, sauces, purées.

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Who are your culinary heroes?

Susur Lee [affiliated with several concepts, including Frigs, Lee, Luckee, and Bent in Toronto] and David Chang [of Momofuko, NYC].

Your new concept, Máquè, just opened in January. Where did you get the name?

Máquè is Chinese for sparrow. In the Chinese culture, the sparrow is a small bird that is resilient and extremely hard working, which is how I see myself—independent, resilient, hard working.

What can we expect when we visit Máquè?

It is contemporary Chinese food, which is a style of food that has always interested me. You will already find those influences in the food I was cooking before Máquè. When I saw that the space on Stafford was for lease, the location really kept me on track—it is in my neighbourhood; it’s relatively underserved; and there is a ton of walking and street traffic passing by.

What’s next?

I want to do some travelling in the next year—to San Francisco, and I really want to go back to New York. Also, Toronto. I love that city. I had forgotten how good the food

2016_Independent_01_outl.indd 1

Hamachi ceviche with crispy yucca and caviar at Enoteca Wine Bar.

scene is there. There is so much innovative stuff going on in Toronto right now.

I have put solid teams in place in my restaurants, so I will be spending my time doing menu features, less time pulling 14-hour days. I am ready for the next step, but I still want to be very much a part of the creative process. I find that when people expand, that is where they lose touch—they pull away and aren’t a part of the greater creative process anymore. And that’s the part I find the most important. 

1/5/2016 12:44:45 PM

gluggy

By Mike Muirhead, CMS, Sommelier

Top Wines Under $15 Buying wine has become increasingly difficult over the last decade. When I started buying wine 10 years ago, there was a sea of good, cheap wine to choose from. From Australia, to Chile, to the Central Valley in California, there was enough production to find great value wines that every palate could enjoy. Now, even with the advancement of

modern winemaking technology and more options due to the growth of New World wine regions, it is hard to find wine under $15 that really offers great value for money. But we are committed to bringing the best wines for your dollar to Manitoba. To that end, we travel all over the world and taste thousands of wines every year—just for you.

WHITE

RED

We always seem to have a larger selection of affordable whites to choose from for this list. White wine production is less costly (no oak, less aging time), so finding crisp white wines at an affordable price is just a matter of looking deep into the range of products available.

Great red wine under $15 has been challenging to find lately. Big, rich wines are currently in favour; however, these styles are synonymous with a more expensive type of winemaking. They require more vigorous grape selection, longer winemaking practices, and expensive oak treatments that often end up north of $15. Really special finds these days tend to be oak-free and lighter in style. For this style, I look to Grenache and Tempranillo from Spain, Nero D’Avola from Italy, and some fresher style Cabernets from Chile.

Many of my favourites right now are from grapes that have been around forever, but often get overlooked for the more popular Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. Marsanne, Rousanne, Riesling, Macabeo, and Chenin Blanc are all at the top of my “to-drink” list.

Auriol 2014 MR Marsanne Rousanne, France ($12.99): Easy to sell because it’s so easy to drink.

Stump Jump 2014 Riesling McLaren Vale, Australia ($13.99): Dry, crisp, and lime-zesty goodness.

Simonsig 2013 Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch, South Africa ($13.99): A fruity Chenin Blanc with a rich palate.

Finca Muñoz 2014 Macabeo Verdejo Castilla VdT, Spain ($10.99): This one makes me dream of warmer climes.

Gorrebusto 2013 Tempranillo Rioja, Spain ($11.99): Cherry, mouthwatering goodness.

Montalto 2012 Nero d’Avola Sicily, Italy ($12.99): A bit of mocha, leather, and a smooth finish.

Yali 2014 Wild Swan Cabernet Sauvignon Central Valley, Chile ($11.99): Medium weight with rich blackberry and raspberries.

Cape Hangklip 2013 Shiraz Western Cape, South Africa ($13.99): The richest of the lot: black currant, peppery spice and a full mouthfeel. 

VALUE HALL OF FAME These two wines have topped our value wine list for the last 10 years. They offer consistent high-quality winemaking that has put them into the permanent Value Hall of Fame at the store.

Don Ramón 2013 Tempranillo Grenache, Campo de Borja, Spain ($12.99): This wine has been so consistently good. It is the only wine that has had a clean run for 14 straight years at the store.

It is so popular that when we ran out of stock for six months, we had a back order list three pages long.

For white wine, we have a tie between two Pinot Grigios: Quadri 2014 and Botter 2014 Oggi Pinot Grigio, both from Veneto, Italy. Oggi ($11.99) has been our most popular white wine for the last five years. A wine that delivers amazing quality for the price, Quadri ($12.99) has demonstrated Hall of Fame-level staying power.

MEMBERSHIP INCLUDES:

CELLAR STARTER CLUB Are you looking to expand your wine collection and your palate?

The Banville & Jones Cellar Starter Club is your ticket to a well-rounded wine collection and access to some of the world’s best wine finds.

For more details, contact Andrea Eby at andrea@banvilleandjones.com or call 204.948.9463. * For club members outside of Winnipeg, we are pleased to store your crate for a short time, until pick-up can be arranged.

TEXT A SOMMELIER Have a wine question? Your answer is just a text away!

Impress your friends with your personal Banville & Jones Sommelier, at your fingertips.

Text us your wine questions: • Wines we have in stock • Wines we carry • Recommendations from a restaurant wine list • Is it time to open that special bottle?

How does it work?

Between 9 am and 9 pm, text wine-related questions to 204.400.0499 and one of our 7 Sommeliers will text you back with an answer.

• Wine selections carefully curated by the Banville & Jones buying team include a well-balanced mix of wines that are classic standards, new to our market (and your palate), and/or difficult to obtain.

• Flexible subscription options include 6 or 12 bottle cases and a choice of all-red wines or a mixed option (mostly red, with some special whites, sparking, fortified, and dessert wines).

• A thoughtful information package with a detailed description of the wines, producer notes, cellaring potential, and food-pairing recommendations.

• Access to our team of in-house sommeliers to answer your questions.

• Cases delivered quarterly to your home (within city limits).*

Photo by Ian McCausland

gary’s corner

By Gary Hewitt, D-WSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier

TRENTINOALTO ADIGE: EIN BISSCHEN DEUTSCH, UN PO ’ ITALIANO The north-central Italian region of Trentino-Alto Adige lies snuggled up against the Austrian Alps. Some say it is a little bit German and a little bit Italian, but this is an understatement— it is a lot German and a lot Italian. In the northern part, Alto Adige, German is spoken preferentially, whereas in the southern part, Trentino, Italian may come first. Regardless, both languages are official and there is a charming St. Boniface-like linguistic redundancy: the city of Bolzano is also called Bozen; Alto Adige is Südtirol; and the Adige River that links both parts is also the Etsch.

Gemanic-influenced architecture and cuisine reinforce the impression that the two parts are twins.

However, Trentino and Alto Adige are not the same. Prior to the reorganization of modern Italy into 20 official regions, Südtirol had been officially linked to Austria since the Middle Ages, whereas Trentino’s affiliation was looser, having been annexed to Austria’s state of Tyrol in the early 1800s. Therefore, despite close proximity, the Germanic influence was stronger in the north. In fact, their 20th-century merger necessitated recognition of Trentino-Alto Adige as a “special” autonomous region to accommodate their distinct bilingual 30 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

culture and to prevent separation of the region from the rest of Italy.

Geographically, at least, the union seems natural. The Adige River rises in the Alps, is joined by the Isarco (Eisach) River at Bolzano (Bozen), and flows due south through Trentino’s capital Trento (Trient) before turning southeast en route to the Adriatic Sea. The two river valleys create a magnificent Y-shaped wine-growing region. The tall traditional pergola-trained vines that line the valley sides in Trentino give way to modern low-trained vines on the steeper, higher altitude vineyards of Alto Adige. Historically, fresh, light-bodied red wines made for the Austrian-Swiss market dominated production, but today the balance has shifted to lively white wines for a wider international market. In North America, sales of fresh easy-going Pinot Grigio dwarf those of other grape varieties, giving the impression of regional uniformity. However, scratch beneath the surface and you will find a rich diversity of wines.

Chardonnay vies with Pinot Grigio in terms of total production but is less apparent because so much is used for sparkling wines. Other international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Blanc are joined, not surprisingly, by the Germanic Riesling, Silvaner, Müller-Thurgau, and Gewurztraminer (said to be named for the local town of Tramin). Red varieties are led by Lagrein and Teroldego in terms of quality, by Schiava (Vernatsch) in terms of volume, and by Cabernet, Merlot, and Pinot Noir in terms of familiarity (to us). Regardless of colour or the

number of grape varieties (many wines are blends), the best wines have vital acidity, bright fruit, and moderate alcohol, characteristics of wines with great food affinity.

Scratch a little deeper and more differences emerge. In both regions, cooperative wineries are dominant: regionwide, they produce about two thirds of all wines. In general, the co-ops are of an unusually high standard. However, in Trentino, heightened market sensitivity often results in high-volume commercial wines that are overshadowed by the quality-driven wines of Alto Adige.

History again helps explain this difference. In Trentino, as in Europe in general, tough economic times in the mid-1900s brought growers together to cut costs and to take advantage of government incentives. In Alto Adige, many co-ops formed in the 1800s led by growers intent on sharing resources to optimize quality with the result that some cooperatives in Alto Adige, such as Cantina Terlano, are now ranked among the best wineries in all of Italy.

Of course, to learn about Trentino-Alto Adige it would be best to visit—to drive the circuitous la Strada del Vino Alto Adige (Südtiroler Weinstrasse) from Salorno (Salurn) in the south to Bolzano (Bozen) in the north; to ski or hike in the Dolomiti (Dolomiten) mountains on the threshold of the Alps; to eat the local canederli (Knödel) dumplings; and to drink the local vino (Wein) in situ.

But if you cannot visit, then sip a locally purchased Pinot Nero (Spätburgunder) or Pinot Grigio (Grauburgunder) perchance to dream…a little in Italiano…a little in Deutsch. 

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For more information regarding catering services at any of our concepts, please contact our director of catering, Paul Haverstock.

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He has 47 years of experience in catering and the hospitality industry, and would love to help you with your next event. Call: (204) 226-2018.

trending

By Sylvia Jansen, D-WSET, CSW, Sommelier

Quick, Slow Down Slow food is coming fast.

Let me explain. We live in a food world where “instant” is the name of the game. Dinner is hot and ready when you are there to pick it up, or when the doorbell rings. We are preparing dinner by defrosting a package in the microwave. If you can eat while driving to your meeting, even better. But when we rely on packaged fast foods, we can slowly lose interest in our grandparents’ best recipes. Or we stop gardening and let their heritage seeds become extinct. And we can slowly use up too much of the planet’s resources in the processes that get fast food to us finished and ready.

In 1986 a fast food chain opened a location near the historic Spanish Steps in Rome. The event created an uproar, but it also inspired a movement toward a better, slower way. In July of that year, a few people got together in a cellar room at the Piedmont estate of Fontanafredda and laid the foundation for the Slow Food movement.

Slow Food revolves around the principles of good, clean, and fair. Slow food is good when it is fresh and delicious and part of the local culture; it is clean when its production and consumption do not harm environment, animal welfare, or human health; and it is fair

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Photo by Carol Fletcher

when production and distribution offer good conditions and pay for producers, and accessible prices for consumers.

Among the formal collaborators in Slow Food is the hugely successful Eataly concept, originating in Northern Italy’s Turin. This food market sources high-quality, sustainable, and local food options; consumers have the opportunity to buy, eat, and learn at the same place.

If you do not know how to cook that locally sourced fish on display, you can ask. If you want an idea for serving this week’s tomatoes, you can order them in a dish at one of the in-house cafés.

The Eataly concept has spread to numerous cities in Italy, and to more than a dozen locations around the world. Wherever you find it, Eataly is a place to get slow food, fast. If you want to be in the know, you ought to go.

Slow wine is trending, too. Many wine lovers are no longer content with just good: we want wine to be clean and fair as well. Slow wine recognizes that, for wine to be good, clean, and fair, it must be more than just good tasting. It should be produced through practices that have a positive impact on the people who produce it and the environment in which it is grown.

Informed consumers are asking deeper questions about our wines. Is the fruit or base wine sourced from massive vineyards thousands of kilometres apart from each other?

Is the wine adjusted by adding flavour or colour compounds?

Does the producer avoid excessive water consumption? Is the vineyard managed in an environmentally sustainable way? Are the people who work there, or in the supply and distribution chain, treated fairly?

The Italian Vino Libero (“Free Wine”) project promotes responsible and healthy farming, in which wines are produced in ways that respect history and tradition. Vino Libero’s three main objectives are to be: free of artificial fertilizers (only organic fertilizers used); free of herbicides, working the land in a more traditional way; and free from excessive sulphite use (using better techniques to reduce sulphite use to 40 per cent of that allowed by law). Fontanafredda is one of the collaborators in the Vino Libero project.

Move quickly on the slow trend. Buy something grown or produced by an artisan in your local market. Invite a few friends over and prepare a meal from a family recipe. Serve wine that meets the good, clean, fair standard.

Sit down. Live the slow life. 

Your Castle in Friuli Awaits you!

Live the Dream...

Hotel Castello di Buttrio Agriturismo Tra Le Vigne (B & B) Locanda restaurant Event Centre Vineyard & Wine Cellar Via Morpurgo 9 33042 Buttrio UD - Italy Tel. +39 0432 673659 www.castellodibuttrio.it

living abbiocco:

THE BEST OF LA BELLA VITA

By Andrea Eby, CSW, D-WSET, Sommelier Overlooking the vineyards at Relais di Tenuta Santa Caterina in Grazzano Badoglio, Piedmont (photo courtesy of Tenuta Santa Caterina)

“You can have the universe if I can have Italy.” Verdi was onto something when he penned this iconic phrase.

There is something about Italy that keeps drawing me back. On my most recent trip I spent a few idyllic days exploring the regions of Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna, Veneto, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. From the complex and powerful wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, to the natural wines being made by a new generation of winemakers near Vicenza, I found myself falling even more in love with la bella Italia. And although it was the wines that led me north, the food was equally remarkable. Italy is famous for simple cuisine that is elevated to the sublime with impeccable high-quality ingredients, and the cuisine of the north is no exception. Home to some of Italy’s iconic foods, Italy’s north is a heaven on earth for lovers of divine wines and epicurean delights.

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Piedmont Our journey through Northern Italy begins in Piedmont, home to the iconic wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. Piedmont is the land of butter, cream, eggs, beef, and, of course, white truffles. Truffle season begins in November and I can recommend no better time to visit. Restaurants offer shaved truffles over every dish, perhaps none more delicious that a simple fried egg, sprinkled liberally with the freshest shaved white truffle. Another regional specialty that should not be missed is Tajarin, a golden pasta made with 20 egg yolks per kilogram of flour, and topped with truffles, porcini mushrooms or ragu.

abbiocco: that drowsy, satisfied feeling that follows a big, delicious Italian meal

BUYER BEWARE: Truffles are sold by the gram, and your bill can add up quickly; however, this treat is well worth the investment.

Photo courtesy of Tenuta Santa Caterina

WINE HIGHLIGHT: PIEDMONT Set aside some time to visit a couple of our favourite Piedmont producers, such as Giacomo Fenocchio and Massolino. Giacomo Fenocchio makes three amazing reds: 2014 Dolcetto d’Alba ($21.99), Nebbiolo Langhe ($29.99), and Barolo ($51.99). At Massolino, the Moscato d’Asti ($27.99) was a stand out, and the 2009 Vigna Rionda Riserva Barolo ($161.99) is a special treat.

The short drive to stay at the Relais di Tenuta Santa Caterina vineyard and inn in Grazzano Badoglio will reward the traveller with stunning views of nearby Asti and spectacular accommodations in a newly restored 17th century villa. A private tour of their vineyards can be arranged. At the Tenuta Santa Caterina vineyard, we fell in love with Salidoro Bianco Monferrato ($36.99), Arlandino Grignolino D’Asti ($23.99) and Vignalina Barbera D’Asti ($29.99).

A grocer selling pasta during the International White Truffle Fair of Alba (courtesy of Michele Vacchiano)

Several Michelin-starred restaurants dot the landscape, including the beautiful Piazza Duomo in Alba and Barbaresco’s Antinè, with its stunning vineyard views. You will have a more casual, but equally delicious, experience at Ristorante Brezza. This family-owned restaurant offers spectacular views of Barolo and its surrounding vineyards, serving classic Piedmont dishes and a well-curated wine list. Industry insiders will also point lucky travellers in the direction of Tra Arte E Querce in the village of Monchiero.

With only a handful of tables, this family-run restaurant is famous for its authentic cuisine, stunning views, and its truffles. It is always open in truffle season, but the restaurant closes from January 2 until Easter.

Emilia-Romagna Any serious culinary tour of Italy’s north would not be complete without a stop in “the stomach of Italy,” Emilia-Romagna, where many of our favourite Italian ingredients originate. To learn about the specialty food items and sample the best of the region, tour one of the local Balsamic Parmigiano or Parma ham producers. Do as the locals do and enjoy a glass, or two, of the local wine

specialty, Lambrusco. Far removed from the sickly sweet fizz that inundated North America in the 1980s, today’s Lambrusco is often dry and pairs perfectly with the salty savoury quality of the local cuisine. If time and funds allow, make a reservation at Modena’s Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana, where Chef Massimo Bottura serves iconic regional ingredients with a dramatic flare. (Note that you must make your reservations online and that they take bookings a few months in advance.)

Veneto Veneto is the region where staples such as polenta and risotto reign supreme and seafood becomes commonplace on every table. And, although our North American sensibilities may find it offensive, you will find a great deal of cavali or horse in the regional menus. Make your first stop Verona: skip Juliet’s balcony and instead take in a performance at the Roman amphitheater, with dinner before, of course. Wine lovers should check out Ristorante Arche on Via Arche Scaligere, even if just for the wine list alone.

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Clockwise from top left: the International Truffle Fair in Alba; Chef Erico Crippa of Piazza Duomo, Alba (photo courtesy of Piazza Duomo); Ristorante 12 Apostoli, Verona; Ristorante Arche, Verona; the Ambrosi brothers of Al Contadino, Venice; Massimo Bottura's Osteria Francescana, Modena (photo by Paolo Terzi)

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If time allows, treat yourself to another meal at Ristorante 12 Apostoli, one of the oldest restaurants in Verona, complete with Roman relics. Rumor has it that a tour of the restaurant’s basement will lead you into an ancient Roman street. The food and wine at Ristorante 12 Apostoli will have you wishing you had more time to spend in Verona.

Once you have managed to tear yourself away from Verona, it is off to Venice. If time allows, take the scenic route and enjoy the bucolic landscape of the plains surrounding the famous university city of Padua. One of my favourite restaurants in the area is Al Contadino, near Vo in Colli Euganei. Be sure to try the local pasta known as bigoli, a house specialty. Mention you are visiting from Winnipeg and you are sure to receive the star treatment from the Ambrosi brothers and their staff, who have many connections to Winnipeg and Banville & Jones.

A short drive east will find you on the shores of the Adriatic and cruising the canals of Venice.

There is no shortage of tourist destinations in Venice, which means that some insider information can be the difference between a good meal and a great meal. Try popping in to Al Bottegone where you can enjoy the classic Venetian tapas known as cichetti, alongside a great selection of wines, or make some time for La Palanca, famous for its cuttlefish and squid ink pasta, served with spectacular waterfront views.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia Entering Friuli-Venezia Giulia is almost like entering another country.

Sharing its borders with Austria and Slovenia, the food, wine and language of the area all reflect this proximity. Stunningly beautiful, the region combines snow-covered mountain peaks, steep hills blanketed with vines and seaside villages perched on cliffs overlooking the sea. The spectacular cuisine of the area draws upon the diverse landscape and seafood plays a large role. Home of the currently trending orange wine phenomenon, the region offers more than its fair share of oneof-a-kind wine experiences.

THAT’S SO DOP….

DOP refers to Protected Designation of Origin and guarantees the provenance of 138 traditional Italian foods. Similar to the systems of rules and regulations that govern wine production in Italy, the DOP designation tells you that product is the real deal. Many of Italy’s most renowned DOP foods hail from Northern Italy.

Balsamic vinegar: The real DOP version is richer and thicker than its imitators, the result of extended aging. The real thing costs more, but it is definitely worth the splurge.

Parmigiano Reggiano: This salty, savoury delicacy is aged for a minimum of 16 months in order to achieve its signature hard and crumbly texture. Visit a great cheese shop, or a local producer, and sample older versions of this classic cheese.

Prosciutto di Parma: Translated as ham from Parma, this uncooked, dry-cured meat is sweet, salty, and supple. Every step of its production is regulated, from the pigs’ diets to the intricate steps involved in the curing process. Each region of Italy claims to make the best ham, but Parma wears the crown.

Basilico Genovese: This classic Italian basil is familiar to many as the essential ingredient in pesto. Perhaps it is the clean, crisp ocean breezes that contribute to the exceptional flavour of basil from Genoa!

Not to be missed is a meal at La Subida, just outside the town of Cormons. This family-run, Michelin-starred restaurant is inevitably the first name mentioned when you ask Italians where to eat in Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

Specializing in Friulian dishes, La Subida serves exquisite cuisine with love and affection. You leave feeling as if you have been a personal guest of the family! While in Cormons, be sure to check out Enoteca di Cormòns, one of the region’s best wine bars, where you can sample your way through the wines of over 30 different producers.

Those looking to explore the more “extreme” wines of the region should make the time to visit producers such as Gravner and Radikon, who are internationally recognized for their amphore-aged wines. Wineries such as Borgo del Tiglio and Zidarich are largely unknown in North America, but industry insiders consider their whites among the best in Italy: don’t miss the opportunity to visit!

Regardless where your travels take you, if you find yourself in Italy’s north you are sure to come away with an appreciation of the beautiful wines and the delicious cuisine. If you’ve allowed yourself to truly enjoy the experience you will probably also come away a few pounds heavier—but that’s okay, that’s what next year’s New Year’s resolutions are for. 

FIT FOR A KING: CASTELLO DI BUTTRIO An ideal base for exploring the region is Castello di Buttrio. Nestled on the vineyard estate are a luxury boutique hotel, the more sedate Agriturismo Tra la Vigne (Farmhouse in the Vines), and Locanda, the onsite restaurant that serves traditional Friulian with contemporary flare. Take advantage of the complementary bicycles to explore the historical sites and wineries that dot the landscape, and don’t miss the June prosciutto festival in close by San Daniele.

While there, visit Castello di Buttrio’s winery and tasting room, where owner Alessandra Felluga will share her rich whites from local varieties such as Fruiliano and Ribolla Gialla and lively reds from Refosco and Pignolo. Try Alessandra’s wines at home, exclusively at Banville & Jones: blends Castello di Buttrio Mon Rouge ($24.99) and Mon Blanc ($24.99), and Friulano ($25.99), from the native Friuli grape.

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A Taste of Northern Italy

By Rebecca Lechman, Jill Kwiatkoski and Steve Lagimodiere It wasn’t difficult to find some Banville & Jones wine experts who wanted to be a part of the Northern Italy food and wine pairing event for this issue! Due to its close regional and historical connections to Germany and Austria, Northern Italy’s food can be very surprising, and very regionally diverse. In order to give our readers a taste of authentic Northern Italy, we reached out to some friends at vineyards across the region for traditional dishes. We got a broad range of flavours, including several types of dumplings, cabbage dishes, risottos and, of course, a few

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Photos by Ian McCausland

pastas. Rebecca made casseoula—a hearty stew of ribs, sausages, cabbage and vegetables suggested by our friend Aldo Steccanella of CàMaiol Winery. Jill made a traditional risotto alla Milanese, which incorporates both saffron and beef marrow for a very rich flavour profile. And, because we couldn’t have an Italian feast without pasta, Steve tried his hand at ricotta pansotti—a homemade stuffed pasta.

To accompany the traditional ricotta and almond sauce, he added some speck—a cured, smoked pork that is native to the Alto Adige region in the north.

REBECCA´S CASSEOULA Serves 4 1 2 1 1 tbsp 1 tbsp 1 300 g

½ cup 1 cup 6 oz 1

medium onion, diced fine stalks celery, diced fine medium carrot, diced fine olive oil butter rack baby back ribs, approx 800g sweet Italian sausage, casings removed and chopped white wine beef broth tomato paste head savoy cabbage salt and pepper

Move the cabbage and vegetables to the side of the pot and return the ribs and sausage to cover the bottom. Fully cover the ribs with the cabbage mixture. Cover and cook on low heat for 90 minutes, until ribs are falling off the bone.

Remove from heat and let stand 20 minutes before serving.

While the casseoula rests, prepare the polenta.

Make ahead: The casseoula can be made the day before and gently reheated on low heat.

For the Polenta: 1 cup yellow cornmeal 4½ cups whole milk ¼ cup butter

salt and pepper

Remove the silver skin from the back of the rack of ribs and then slice each rib individually. In a Dutch oven, melt the oil and butter together. Heat to medium high and brown the ribs on all sides, then set aside. Brown the sausage, cooking through, then set aside. Add the celery, carrot, and onion to the Dutch oven and deglaze with a splash of wine, about 5 minutes.

Bring the milk to a gentle boil, stirring constantly. Reduce to low heat and whisk in the cornmeal, stirring constantly to prevent lumps. Add the butter and whisk until fully melted and incorporated. Salt and pepper to taste. Add more cream or butter as necessary to achieve desired consistency, stirring constantly until the liquid is absorbed, about 10 minutes total. Polenta should be served immediately.

Whisk together the tomato paste and beef stock and add to the pot. Cover and simmer on low for 20 minutes, until the vegetables are cooked and the sauce is thickened.

Spoon creamy polenta into each bowl, top with a scoop of the braised cabbage and sausage and arrange the ribs on top.

Meanwhile, wash the cabbage and chop coarsely. Remove any thick pieces from the core. Add the cabbage to the sauce and stir until wilted. Keep stirring to prevent sticking. Cover and cook on low for 10 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste.

PAIR WITH:

CàMaiol 2010 Negresco Garda Classico, Italy $29.99 A.A. Badenhorst 2014 Secateurs Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa $22.99 Tres Palacios 2011 Family Vintage Carménère Maipo Valley, Chile $19.99

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JILL´S RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE Serves 4 6 cups 1 tbsp ½ cup 2 tbsp 1 700 g

1 2 cups 1 cup ¼ tsp ¼ tsp ½ cup

chicken stock saffron threads butter, at room temperature, divided olive oil medium onion, diced beef bone with marrow* (yields approx. 2 oz. of marrow) shallot, sliced Arborio rice dry white wine salt black pepper finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving

*Note: Beef marrow bones can be found at most butchers.

We got ours around the corner at Marcello’s Meats.

PAIR WITH: Zýmē 2013 Il Blanco from Black to White Veneto, Italy $32.99 CàMaiol 2011 Giomè Benaco Bresciano, Italy $24.99 Lopez de Haro 2010 Crianza Rioja, Spain $15.99

Bring 6 cups chicken stock to a simmer in a small saucepan.

In a small heat-proof bowl, mix the saffron threads with 1 cup of warm chicken stock and set aside.

Rinse marrow bone, scrape out marrow and set aside. (Ask your butcher to slice the beef bones lengthwise for easy access to the marrow.)

Melt 3/4 of butter in a large saucepan on medium heat (keep heat constant). Add olive oil and onion, and cook until translucent (approx. 6 minutes). Add shallot and bone marrow and cook for 1 minute. Add rice and stir for 3 minutes to coat each grain with the butter/onion mixture.

Add wine and simmer, stirring, until liquid is absorbed, approximately 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Set a 20-minute timer. Add ½ cup of warm chicken stock (from the saucepan without the saffron), stirring frequently for 3 minutes until stock is absorbed. Repeat in 3-minute intervals using all of the stock, finishing with the saffron broth. When the timer goes off, the rice will be very creamy looking but still al dente. Remove from heat and stir in remaining butter and parmesan cheese. Serve immediately, with additional grated parmesan cheese on top of each serving.

STEVE´S RICOTTA PANSOTTI WITH SPECK AND WALNUT SAUCE Serves 4 For the Pansotti: 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1½ tsp salt ½ to ½ cup water 1 large egg ½ cup white wine For the filling: 3 tbsp olive oil 4 cups mixed greens, such as Swiss chard, spinach,

and arugula ½ cup fresh basil, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced ¾ cup Parmesan cheese, grated ¾ cup ricotta cheese 1 clove garlic, minced ½ tsp nutmeg

salt and pepper Dough: Put the flour, salt, egg, and olive oil in the food processor, and pulse to combine. Add the wine slowly as you blend. Remove the dough and knead with your hands on a lightly floured countertop until smooth, about 3 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for at least half an hour, or up to 12 hours (in the fridge if longer than 2 hours). The longer you let it rest, the easier it is to roll out.

Filling: Heat olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat.

Add the greens and basil, and wilt for about 5 minutes; add the garlic for an additional 3 minutes. Once completely cool, chop the wilted greens and mix in a medium bowl with Parmesan, ricotta, egg, and nutmeg. Stir until blended and season to taste. Refrigerate until ready to use.

To assemble pansotti: Divide dough into four portions, covering the dough you are not working with plastic wrap.

If you have a pasta maker, starting at the widest setting,

gradually roll each portion of dough thinner until you get to the second thinnest setting. If using a rolling pin, roll the dough out on a floured surface, to just a few millimetres thick. Cut the dough into 3-inch squares. Place one teaspoon of filling in the centre of each square. Fold the dough over to form a triangle and pinch the edges tightly, making sure no filling is spilling out the sides. Place finished pansotti on a floured surface, making sure they don’t touch. Boil pansotti in a large pot of salted boiling water for 4 minutes, stirring gently once or twice to make sure they don’t stick to the pot or to each other. Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water once you are done for your walnut sauce.

Make ahead: Freeze uncooked pansotti on cookie sheets in a single layer with lots of flour. Once frozen, throw them in a freezer bag until you need them. Cook from frozen, boiling for about 5 minutes.

For the Speck and Walnut Sauce: 1 cup walnut pieces 1 cup packed cubed day-old white bread ½ cup milk ¾ tsp sea salt ½ cup Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving ½ cup packed fresh basil, chopped, plus more

for serving 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup ricotta cheese 2 tbsp lemon juice and rind of one lemon ¼ cup heavy cream* ½ cup reserved pasta water 150 g speck or prosciutto, diced *Don’t tell the Italians, but we also made a slightly healthier version of the sauce substituting Greek yogurt for the cream that was delicious.

Soak your day-old bread in milk for 10 minutes. Squeeze out the milk and discard. In a food processor or blender, combine the bread, walnuts, salt, pepper, Parmesan cheese, and fresh basil. Add garlic and grind until the mixture is a slightly coarse paste. Add 1/3 cup olive oil, one tablespoon at a time, blending on low, to make a smoother paste.

Mix walnut paste with the ricotta and 2 tbsp lemon juice in a bowl, then add the cream and remaining 2 tbsp of oil. Don’t worry if the sauce looks too thick, as you will be adding some reserved water from the pasta to thin it.

In a frying pan, sauté the speck for about 3 minutes on medium-high. Add the walnut sauce, and reduce the heat to medium. Stir in the lemon zest and as much reserved pasta water as you need to thin the sauce to your desired consistency. Add cooked pansotti to the sauce and toss to coat. Top with fresh Parmesan cheese and chopped basil. 

PAIR WITH: Castello di Buttrio 2013 Friulano Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy $25.99 Terlan 2013 Terlaner Classico Alto Adige, Italy $26.99 Buena Vista 2013 Carneros Chardonnay, California, USA $37.99

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Located in the Fairmont Winnipeg hotel. For reservations or further information call 204 957 1350 or visit www.velvetglovewinnipeg.com

Angelo Gaja (photo courtesy of GAJA)

ROOTED EVOLUTION:

an interview with Angelo Gaja Interview by Gary Hewitt, D-WSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier In 1961, Angelo Gaja took over the family winery in the Piedmont region of Barbaresco. His mix of winemaking and business acumen, charm and bravado raised the reputation of GAJA and of the whole region. He was a pioneer of single-vineyard designated wines and estate bottling and was an early adopter of modern winemaking techniques. Building on success at home, in the 1990s, he launched two new projects in the Tuscan regions of Brunello di Montalcino and Bolgheri. The distinct GAJA logo is globally recognized for wines that epitomize a nocompromise approach to quality. Now in his 70s, Angelo Gaja remains a vigorous force, with his energies focussed on the impact of a changing climate on viticulture and the inclusion of his children in the family business. Gary caught up with Angelo Gaja in Italy.

48 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Gary Hewitt (GH) You first gained fame for wines from your home region of Barbaresco, but your sphere of influence grew well beyond the boundaries of Piedmont. Much has been written about your influence, but what do you consider your most important contributions to the wine world?

Angelo Gaja (AG) My contribution was to give the example of producing Barbaresco wine (a small appellation, which 40 years ago was not well known on the international markets, having been clouded by the more prestigious Barolo) in order to underline its originality, elegance, uniqueness. At the same time, to gain interest, curiosity, and admiration from experts and wine lovers.

GAJA's Sperss Vineyard in Serralunga d'Alba (photo courtesy of GAJA)

GH Considering your roots in Northern Italy, what led you to invest in other Italian wine regions?

GH What wine from outside of Italy do you admire most?

AG I decided to go out of Piedmont at the end of the 1980s. We didn’t want to let GAJA winery grow more, but we still had dreams and energies that we wanted to spend somewhere. Why Tuscany? Because the two villages of Montalcino and Castagneto Carducci are well known for their vocation in producing top quality wines due to their outstanding terroirs. The challenge to work in a place of great terroir nurtures the hope and the dream to be able, one day, to produce top wines with big character and personality. The terroirs were already there, discovered and underlined by the big work done by several winemakers operating in the area. Moreover, Tuscany is blessed by a unique charm also due to its outstanding landscape.

AG Those coming from the varieties Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Malbec, Syrah. I am not a fan of the rich, over-extracted wines.

GH What current trends do you see in Italian wine and in the global market?

AG All over the world, Italy remains the country most able to offer food wines: wines that can match not only with Italian cuisine but also with many different ethnic recipes. There is an enormous presence of indigenous vine varieties that produce very different wines: Sicily with the Etna area, Calabria with the extraordinary richness of indigenous varieties, Marche (for white wines), Emilia for the serious, and Lambrusco for originality.

Outside of Italy: Pinot Noir from Switzerland and Germany; white wines from northwestern Spain and South of Chile; Argentina, Hungary, China, South of Brazil, and the U.K.

GH What is your outlook on climate change? Do you have a strategy for adapting to a changing viticulutural environment?

AG The climate change (starting from 1995–1997) brought some advantages for the late-ripening varieties such as Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, which now, at harvest, constantly reach an optimal maturation of the grapes. A disadvantage is linked to the recrudescence of vine diseases that were sleeping before. We work closely with entomologists, botanists, and university researchers to adapt the vines to the new climate conditions, allowing them to live in safe environments without using chemicals to recover the vines’ resilience. Nobody has the answer in his pocket: it is a constant commitment, surveying the vineyards using the power of observation, intuition, always keeping a small bit of doubt concerning the vineyard testing, in order to keep our critical capacity active.

GH Great family businesses are challenged to involve family members and to transfer authority between generations: how do you choose who is involved in the business of GAJA? AG I have the good fortune to have two daughters (Gaia and Rossana) and one son (Giovanni) who want to go ahead in the family business (they represent the

www.banvilleandjones.com 49

fifth generation). My dream is that they learn to work all three together, sharing sacrifices and responsibilities.

This can still be done in a family agriculture business.

GH If you could invite anyone to dinner, who would you invite, and what wines would you serve?

AG My wife, my children, my close friends. With other guests, I am more worried about giving life to the conversation at the table, avoiding discussions and quarrels, and I must pay close attention to the conversation. With my family and close friends, there is more time to share in the delight of the food and wine. In order to surprise my guests, I would serve Lambrusco Grasparossa, directly from cellar, to make them all feel frizzy but with their feet based on the ground.  The wines of Angelo Gaja

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WINE APPRECIATION COURSES (NO EXAMS!) Essentials of Wine Do you have two evenings for a few essentials on the magic of wine? You will walk away with a new understanding of price and quality in wine, a better understanding of your own palate, and a structured approach to tasting that makes sense. No previous knowledge or experience is needed. Classes run in the 2nd Floor Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones. Visit the website for upcoming dates.

Cost: $79.99 plus GST Essentials 2 Essentials 2 opens the door to deeper understanding of the world of wine through two evenings of tutored tastings that explore differences that come with climate, grape growing, and winemaking in the world’s classic wine regions and beyond. Essentials 2 will be of interest to wine lovers of all descriptions, as well as to those who have participated in Essentials 1. Classes are 7:00 to 9:00 pm, in the 2nd Floor Tuscan Room at Banville & Jones. Visit the website for upcoming dates.

Cost: $79.99 plus GST

CERTIFICATION PROGRAMS Professional Sommelier Program CAPS and ASI Certified What does it take to become a Sommelier? To become a Sommelier requires passion. Study. Tasting. Dedication.

To become a Sommelier brings together people who

52 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

are deeply interested in the study of wine, spirits, and beverages, and applies a rigorous course of study, practical and project work. To become a Sommelier is to immerse oneself in these subjects, to hold to a demanding schedule, and to maintain the passion that started it in the first place.

The Professional Sommelier Program involves 34 fullday (7-hour) Monday classes, plus a full-day certification exam. Schedule (excluding holidays): September 19 to November 28, 2016 (Term 1) January 9 to June 26, 2017 (Term 2) September 11 to October 16, 2017 (Term 3 and certification exam) The three-term structure provides breaks for December, extra study time, the stage placement, and out-of-class assignments.

Successful graduates of the Professional Sommelier Program hold comprehensive knowledge of the world of wine, spirits, beer and beverages in hospitality. Sections include old world (Europe) and new world wine regions; viticulture and winemaking; wine tasting theory; food and wine harmonies; beer; sake; spirits; and Sommelier management. Each week, the program includes indepth tastings, case studies, term exams, and practical projects. There is a 60-hour stage work requirement in a restaurant setting, and the program concludes with a full-day Sommelier certification exam that includes theory, service, and blind tasting. The coveted Sommelier Diploma is recognized in all 44 countries with which the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS/ACSP) is affiliated.

Cost: $4,500 plus GST (payable by deposit and installments)

ANDREA EBY NAMED TO IWSC JUDGING PANEL Banville & Jones is proud to announce Andrea Eby’s appointment to the judging panel of the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC)!

For more than 40 years, the IWSC has sought out and promoted the world’s best wines, spirits, and liqueurs.

The IWSC is known for its pursuit of excellence and its rigorous judging process. Andrea joins an illustrious international panel of judges who include Masters of Wine, wine buyers, Sommeliers, WSET educators, and respected wine journalists.

For more information, contact Banville & Jones Wine Institute at bjwi@banvilleandjones.com, or the visit www.banvilleandjones.com.

WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits (Wine Specialist) The internationally renowned Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET®) introductory course gives candidates excellent all-round wine knowledge. The course focuses on key grape varieties and regions of the world, principle varieties of spirits, and the basics of service. WSET L2 is designed for anyone with an interest in wine and spirits, and does not require previous wine knowledge. We recommend early registration.

Our next Level 2 program is an intensive 3-day weekend course (including exam) that is ideal for out-of-towners and those who want results now! A standard 8-evening class program will be in the fall 2016.

Course offerings: Friday to Sunday, May 27, 28, 29 (full days) Cost: $795 plus GST. Includes WSET Study Pack exams, all materials, and a set of tasting glasses.

WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits (Wine Steward) WSET® Level 3 provides an in-depth analysis of the principal wines and spirits of the world. Candidates also benefit from tastings where they will learn to identify product style and quality. The course is excellent for those in the food and beverage industry, or for wine lovers who want to learn about wines and spirits in a structured and rigorous course. WSET® Level 3 is a prerequisite course for entry to the Professional Sommelier Program.

The IWSC is held in London, U.K., and is the only competition of its kind that conducts full “double-blind” tasting (glasses are pre-poured in a separate room). Judges award medals only to the highest quality entries, and medals are given only when and if worthy wines and beverages are presented. A medal awarded by the IWSC is a badge of honour for producers. A staff member selected to be part of the judging panel is a badge of honour for Banville & Jones. Congratulations, Andrea!

Course offerings: March 8 to June 28, 2016 (Tuesdays): 16 evening classes, 6:30 pm to 9:00 pm.

Cost: $1,495 plus GST. Includes WSET Study Pack, exams, and all materials.

WSET® Level 2 Award in Spirits This specialized qualification focuses on spirits and liqueurs, their production methods, tasting evaluation, major brands, and their place in the market. This course is valuable for those working as bartenders or sales representatives, for those planning to enter the Professional Sommelier Program, or for anyone with a fascination for spirits.

Cost: $795 plus GST. Includes WSET exam fees, all materials, and a set of tasting glasses.

Course offerings: please enquire; upcoming dates TBA French Wine Scholar (FWS): Spring, 2016 The French Wine Scholar (FWS) program is a focussed experience where lesser-known French wine regions such as the Jura and Savoy share the stage with famous regions such as Bordeaux and Burgundy. Each session includes a regional wine tasting and is intended for enthusiasts and members of the wine trade. Those aiming for the Professional Sommelier Program will find this course an excellent stepping stone to the next level.

Course offering: April 14 to June 13 (Mondays, except May 23), 2016: 10 evening classes, 6:30 pm to 9:30 pm Cost: $900 plus GST. Includes exam fees and Study Guide plus FWS web site access.

For course updates and schedules, click on the Events & Education tab at www.banvilleandjones.com.

WINE & FOOD

EVENTS SCHEDULE FEBRUARY 2016 THROUGH JUNE 2016

Wine & Food Evening

Cooking Class

Luxury Tasting

Banville & Jones invites you to join us for a new series of wine and food pairing! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience.

Learn from the best! Banville & Jones Sommeliers team up with Winnipeg’s premier chefs to share recipes and wine pairings.

Taste the luxury when our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialities cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures.

Cost: $89.99 per person

Cost: $99.00 per person

Cost: $85.99 per person

Friday, February 12: Chef Ben Kramer

Friday, March 4: Italy’s Finest

Saturday, February 6: Amici Restaurant

Thursday, April 7: Fresh and Fun

Thursday, February 18: The Merchant Kitchen

Thursday, May 26: Patio Favourites

Thursday, April 28: France: Goût de Terroir

Thursday, March 10: Café Dario Thursday, March 31: Amici Restaurant Saturday, April 16: A taste of the East Thursday, May 5: Chew Restaurant Friday, May 20: South of the Border

Click on the Events and Education tab at www.banvilleandjones.com for updated information on Food and Wine Events.

To reserve a space or book a private wine tasting event, call 204.948.9463.

• Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event.

• Events begin at 7 pm and take place in the 2nd floor Tuscany Room unless otherwise noted.

• Prices do not include taxes.

Banville & Jones Wine Co. | 1616 St Mary’s Rd, Winnipeg | 204.948.WINE (9463) | wine@banvilleandjones.com Monday to Friday 10 am to 8 pm | Saturday 10 am to 6 pm | Sundays and holidays 11 am to 6 pm

Tolaini – Press Awards

Tolaini

Vinous: Picconero 2011

93 pts

Boutique Wines in Tuscany

Valdisanti 2011

91 pts

Chianti Classico Reserva 2010

92 pts

Robert Parker: Picconero 2010

94 pts

Valdisanti 2010

93 pts

Al Passo 2010

92 pts

As seen in Decanter magazine.

M

any of us have dreams of returning to our roots, but few do it in the spectacular fashion of Pierluigi Tolaini, proprietor and moving force behind the Tolaini Winery in Tuscany. Pierluigi kept his dream alive for 40 years after his emigration to Canada at 20 years old in 1959. Then a successful career in transportation gave him the means to return to Tuscany, look for a winery, and live the next dream: to make one of Italy’s best wines, no less.

Four years of research eventually led to the acquisition of an estate in the prime Chianti Classico producing area of Castelnuovo Berardenga, south of Florence and east of Siena. Tolaini has obvious potential: just one look at the ampitheatre vineyards tells you that. Experts have likened the Castelnuovo Berardenga area in style terms to Pauillac in Bordeaux, producing wines with rare power and intensity.

To make the best wines possible, the first necessity is the suitability of the vineyards, since it is a truism of winemaking that wines are only as good as the grapes that the soil produces—“the best fruit produces the best wine” is the fundamental principle of the Tolaini estate. In fact, the property produces fruit of unsurpassable quality, and its fruit is evident in every sip of the estate’s four wines.

The second necessity is people to provide their expertise, which led Pierluigi to put together a highly

Gran Selezione 2011

91 pts

Right: Pierluigi Tolaini, winery owner and entrepreneur, with his daughters Lia Banville and Tina Jones

qualified team of professionals, who share his vision about making the best wines possible in this unique terroir. Diego Bonato runs the winery, but the most recent recruit is Ruggero Mazzilli, who is the founder of the Experimental Station for Sustainable Viticulture in nearby Gaiole in Chianti and now Tolaini’s consulting agronomist.

The estate is young, not even 20 years old in its current incarnation, but the results are already beginning to come in.

Gambero Rosso, Parker, Suckling, and Wine Spectator have voiced

James Suckling: Picconero 2010

their approval for the four red wines Tolaini produces: • Picconero – Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with 5% Petit Verdot. The top wine produced only in the best years • Valdisanti – Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, with 5% Cabernet Franc • Al Passo – a Supertuscan blend of Sangiovese with 15% Merlot • Chianti Classico Riserva – the cru version ”Montebello Vigneto 7” has been awarded the new superior status: Gran Selezione

www.tolaini.it

94 pts

Valdisanti 2011

92 pts

Al Passo 2011, 2010

91 pts

Gran Selezione

92 pts

Wine Spectator: Picconero 2010

90 pts

Valdisanti 2011

91 pts

Al Passo 2011, 2010

91 pts

Gambero Rosso: Picconero 2010, 2009

Valdisanti 2008

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Luis Filipe Edwards, Argentina (photo: LFE); Gamay Grapes in the Okanagan Valley (photo: Todd Antonation); Bar Bar Black Sheep in Riebeek Kasteel, South Africa (photo: Paul Martens); Chef Smion Reisch of Terrace in the Park, Chef and Sommelier Challenge (photo: Ian McCausland)

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By Sylvia Jansen,

D-WSET, CSW, Sommelier

Raising the Bar An evening at Milan’s legendary Teatro Alla Scala is an experience to remember. The venue is upsized and elegant, with tiers of enclosed intimate boxes, a grand main floor, towering curtains, and a stage area as deep as the front of house. With stunning staging, clear voices, and a hundredor-so-strong chorus, it is amazing.

The intermissions gave us time to stroll the lobby and promenades, enjoy a drink, and generally take in the grandeur of it all. At the bar were two options for sparkling wine: Champagne or Franciacorta.

Champagne is that relatively small region in France famous for its sparkling wine. Everything is regulated by law for a wine to qualify as Champagne, from place to grapes to the technique that achieves the bubbles to the length of time the wine must rest. When Champagne is on the list at La Scala, you know it is the real thing.

Franciacorta is another real thing. Distinctively Italian, Franciacorta, the place, is a small region in Northern Italy, between the fabled Lake Garda and the much smaller, but incredibly pretty, Lake Iseo. Franciacorta, the wine, is made by the same time-consuming method as French Champagne, and a lot of Franciacorta is serious bubbly, at serious prices.

The choice of an iconic Italian bubbly at the bar of La Scala was enough for me. Two glasses cost more than I would pay for a whole bottle when I visited Franciacorta a few days later, but the event suited it. A flute of Franciacorta was a cultural icon within a cultural icon, and it was worth it.

When I was talking with a few colleagues after returning to Winnipeg, the conversation turned to wine options available at cultural events and sports venues at home.

58 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Teatro alla Scala, Milan

The wine is not nearly as good as the entertainment. The “champagne” on the list is not real Champagne.

We still seem to have some residual thought that it is snobbery to expect good quality wine and wine service, or that it is fine to offer a sparkling wine from Anywhere, Planet Earth as “Champagne.” But neither is right. Offering well-chosen wine is not snobbish; it is in keeping with a great event. No one would dream of billing any tenor under the name “Placido Domingo,” because that name belongs to someone. And it is equally a sign of respect to use a place name like Champagne only for Champagne.

In Manitoba, we have great treasures: beautiful landscapes, world-class museums, art galleries, theatre, cultural events, professional sports, historic fairs and festivals, and a host of great restaurants. When National Geographic Travel named Winnipeg one of the best places to visit on Earth, many were not surprised. Manitoba is a place that deserves respect.

I recognize that theatres, concerts, and sports events are very different from restaurants. Managing wine is more complicated. Every performance is a different crowd.

Between performances or events there might be a day off, or many days off, without any way to sell the last half of that open bottle.

It might also be, though, that we underestimate ourselves.

I believe we have not fully explored how to match our wine culture to our culture. There does not need to be many choices, but there ought to be good choices. And a sparkling wine from Anywhere, Planet Earth ought to be listed simply as “Sparkling.” If we offer a well-chosen, delicious set of wines, and present them authentically, well, that is iconic.

So here’s to you, culturally speaking. 

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culinary partners 529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. Celebrating its 10th Anniversary, 529 has quickly become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529.

529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325

Located in the Canadian Museum for Human Rights, ERA Bistro is a modern and sophisticated space for lunch, dinner and private events.

Executive Chef Barry Saunders and Executive Sous Chef Stephen Strecker have created a fresh, eco-modernist menu with an emphasis on locally sourced, Certified Fair Trade and sustainable products. ERA Bistro is open for lunch Tuesday–Sunday from 11 am to 5 pm, and dinner on Wednesdays from 5 pm to 8 pm.

Closed Mondays.

Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared Old World dishes and top-notch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves.

Literally everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team.

100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700

Fine fare, done right. SMITH is a new culinary experience built on craftsmanship and a dedication to the finer points located in the Inn at the Forks. Celebrate the truth of honest food created from the diversity of the lands and waters of our great country.

75 Forks Market Road 204.944.2445

Located in the heart of downtown Winnipeg, 295 York is a modern seafood and steakhouse. The lunch menu boasts unique, contemporary takes on classic steakhouse fare, and dinner focuses on prime cuts of beef and fresh seafood. Chef Jesse Friesen and his team work with the freshest ingredients and smoke all of their own meat in-house. Enjoy daily features and live music in the lounge.

295 York St 204.896.7275

Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer and partner Faiz de Beer love to share the fruits of their travels by bringing global cuisine with Manitoba flare to your palate. Cafe Savour’s atmosphere is as unique and delightful as the food, perfect for an intimate, formal dinner for two or a group of friends out to enjoy a casual evening of relaxing laughter. Open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday starting at 5:30 pm for dinner.

956 St Mary’s Road 204.254.4681

85 Israel Asper Way 204.289.2190

Across the Board Amici Restaurant Black Rabbit Bistro Lounge Bombolini Boulevard Pub and Bistro Café 22 Café Dario Chew D-Jay’s Restaurant De Luca's Cooking School and Restaurant Diana’s Cucina and Lounge Dona Onesta

Elements Elkhorn Resort Earl’s Restaurant and Bar Enoteca Era Bistro at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights Food Evolution Hotel Fort Garry Hy’s Steakhouse Jane’s Restaurant and Red River College Joey Kenaston Joey Polo Park

Joey’s Only Seafood Le Cercle Molière Mano a Mano/Teo’s Máquè Market Burger Mere Hotel Olive Garden Italian Restaurant Pizzeria Gusto Sabai Thai Segovia South Beach Casino & Resort St. Charles Country Club

Swiss Chalet The Merchant Kitchen The Roost Social House The Velvet Glove at the Fairmont TR McCoy’s Italian Restaurant The Victoria Inn Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine Vera Cucina Wasabi Sabi Thermëa Spa

shopping list A.A. Badenhorst 2014 Secateurs Chenin Blanc Swartland WO, South Africa $22.99...............................................................…43 AA Privat 2014 Gx Garnatxa Catalunya DO, Spain $15.99..................................................................................................62 Auriol 2014 MR Marsanne Rousanne, France $12.99................................................................................................................28 Botter 2014 Oggi Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie IGT, Italy $11.99..................................................................................................28 Buena Vista 2013 Carneros Chardonnay, USA $37.99...............................................................................................................47 CàMaiol 2011 giomè Benaco Bresciano IGP, Italy $24.99......................................................................................................45 CàMaiol 2010 Negresco Garda Classico DOC, Italy $29.99...................................................................................................43 Cape Hangclip 2013 Shiraz Western Cape, South Africa $13.99................................................................................................28 Castello di Buttrio 2012 Mon Rouge Fruili Colli Orientali, Italy $24.99.................................................................................40 Castello di Buttrio 2013 Friulano Fruili Orientali, Italy $25.99.............................................................................................40,47 Castello di Buttrio 2013 Mon Blanc Fruili Orientali, Italy $24.99..............................................................................................40 Col dei Venti 2014 Primifiori Cortese Piedmont DOC, Italy $19.99........................................................................................23 DFJ Vinhos 2010 Vega Alentejano VR, Portugal $16.99............................................................................................................62 Don Ramón 2013 Garnacha Tempranillo, Campo de Borja DO, Spain $12.99.......................................................................28 Finca Muñoz 2014 Macabeo Verdejo Castilla VdT, Spain $10.99.............................................................................................28 Gaja 2011 Sito Moresco Langhe DOC, Italy $79.99...................................................................................................................23 Giacomo Fenocchio 2014 Dolcetto d’Alba DOC, Italy $21.99...................................................................................................37 Giacomo Fenocchio 2013 Nebbiolo Langhe DOC, Italy $29.99..............................................................................................37 Giacomo Fenocchio 2011 Barolo DOCG, Italy $51.99............................................................................................................37 Gorresbusto 2013 Tempranillo Rioja DOC, Spain $11.99...........................................................................................................28 Jaume Serra nv Cristallino Brut Cava, Spain (200 ml) $6.99.....................................................................................................62 Lange Twins 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Lodi, USA $19.99.....................................................................................................62 Lopez de Haro 2010 Crianza Rioja DOC, Spain $15.99............................................................................................................45 Massolino 2015 Moscato d’Asti DOCG $27.99.........................................................................................................................37 Massolino 2009 Vigna Rionda Riserva Barolo DOCG, Italy $161.99.......................................................................................37 Montalto 2012 Nero d’Avola Sicily IGT, Italy $12.99...............................................................................................................28 Monte dos Cabacos 2009 Colheita Seleccionada Alentejano VR, Portugal $18.99.....................................................................62 Quadri 2014 Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie IGT, Italy $12.99.........................................................................................................28 Reassi 2013 Antichi Reassi Pinello Colli Euganei DOC, Italy $19.99........................................................................................20 Reassi nv Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei DOCG, Italy $22.99.....................................................................................................20 Reassi nv Marzemino Vino Spumante Dolce VdT, Italy $22.99..................................................................................................20 Remo Farina 2013 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore DOC, Italy $21.99..........................................................................24 Sandrone 2012 Barbera d’Alba DOC, Italy $48.99....................................................................................................................23 Simonsig 2013 Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch WO, South Africa $13.99......................................................................................28 Siro Merotto 2013 Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG, Italy $21.99.................................................................................24 Stump Jump 2014 Riesling McLaren Vale, Australia $13.99........................................................................................................28 Tedeschi 2014 Soave DOC, Italy $18.99...................................................................................................................................24 Tenuta Santa Caterina 2013 Salidoro Bianco Monferrato DOC $36.99.....................................................................................37 Tenuta Santa Caterina 2013 Arlandino Grignolino D’Asti DOC $23.99.....................................................................................37 Tenuta Santa Caterina 2012 Vignalina Barbera D’Asti DOCG $29.99.....................................................................................37 Terlan 2014 Terlaner Classico Alto Adige DOC, Italy $26.99...................................................................................................47 Tres Palacios 2011 Family Vintage Carménère Maipo Valley, Chile $19.99...........................................................................43,62 Underwood 2014 Pinot Noir Oregon, USA (375 ml) $11.99.......................................................................................................12 Yali 2014 Wild Swan Cabernet Sauvignon Central Valley, Chile $11.99....................................................................................28 Zýme 2013 Il Blanco from Black to White Veneto IGT, Italy $32.99.........................................................................................45

Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of all products, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co.

* C U STOMER P IC K *

top picks

JOHN PAUL TAVARES

JILL KWIATKOSKI

RENÉE VINCENT

DFJ Vinhos 2010 Vega Tinto Alentejo, Portugal $16.99

Tres Palacios 2011 Family Vintage Carménère Maipo Valley, Chile $19.99

Monte dos Cabacos 2009 Colheita Seleccionada Alentejano VR, Portugal $18.99

Being Portuguese, I’ve always enjoyed wine from the Douro region, but what a surprise I had trying this one from the Alentejo region. With a nice nose, a rich fruity taste, and a medium-dry finish, it’s Old World with a New World take. Great with all Portuguese food (and everything else), sharp cheeses, and on its own. I hope you enjoy it as much as everyone that I have shared it with. Cheers!

Ahhh, Carménère! Now we’re talkin’! A great example of the ever-famous Chilean Carménère, this beauty is full bodied, rich in complexity, with notes of beautiful black fruits, dark chocolate, and baking spices. Well balanced with soft tannins and medium acidity, this is the perfect wine to accompany your favourite slow-cooked red meat dish, or to sip and enjoy on its own on a cold winter night.

This stunning red wine is a personal favourite from Portugal. A blend of Alicante Bouchet, which gives the wine great structure and soft tannins, Touriga Nacional, which adds dark fruit flavours and colour, Tempranillo to bring out the acidity, and with Cabernet Sauvignon to finish. This wine shows dark fruit, fresh herbs, with some peppery spice.

The balanced acidity and minerality offer a long finish.

JENNY VANDENDRIESSCHE

ROB STANSEL

SYLVIA JANSEN

Lange Twins 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Lodi, California $19.99

AA Privat Gx Garnatxa Catalunya DO, Spain $15.99

Jaume Serra nv Cristallino Brut Cava, Spain $6.99 (200 ml)

Good for you and for the planet!

Grown under the Lodi Rules for Sustainability, the Lange Family strives to make the most environmentally friendly wine possible. This juicy little California Cab is full of flavour and smooth and silky in the mouth. Think vanilla, spice, and loads of black cherry, like Dr. Pepper for grown-ups!

A lovely little red from a 1-hectare plot overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, minutes from Barcelona, the Gx is certified organic and certifiably delicious. Medium-bodied, lively and fresh, this one eschews the oak and embraces the fruit, with notes of sweet cherries and just a touch of soft tannin. Think spicy, cured meats and spreadable things on brioche.

Many lovely evenings start with sparkling wine. If a whole bottle is too much, though, try this little gem.

The Jaume Serra Cristallino is bright and mouthwatering, with a lovely fruit core and an almond-smoke finish. At 200 ml, it is just right for a small aperitif for two to share, or a couple of glasses for the bubbly lover!

62 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

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