PoeGo Spring/Summer 2018

PoeGo THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF

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MultiGenerational Travel TRAVELING BETTER TOGETHER

OUR AGENTS SHARE STORIES

A SEASON OF TRAVEL FIRSTS

I’LL GRAB THE BUCKETS, YOU GET THE SAND!

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Dear Traveler Ellison’s

WISH LIST The Isles of Scilly (off the Cornish coast) Northern Wales, Snowdonia (a region in northwest Wales) Margaret’s

WISH LIST: Botswana Namibia Maine

Atacama Desert/Chile

It’s a season of firsts here at Poe Travel. We have agents and clients traveling to far-flung and nearby parts of the globe for the first time AND travelers making return trips with friends and family in tow. Because isn’t that what travel is all about? Seeing the world anew? And sometimes through the eyes of someone you love?

Firsts for members of the Poe Team . . .

Agent Nancy O’Brien headed to Brazil with A&K; Ann McFerran went on a spectacular Kenyan safari; Stacy Bright is taking a bucketlist tour of Italy; Breana Steele just returned from her first trip abroad; and Ellison and mother Tina are going to Port Cros (a first for both), a little-known French island in the Mediterranean, for Tina’s 80th birthday. We’re also asking agents (and you, dear reader!) to share their travel firsts with us, and what sweet memories they are! (see inside)

WE HAVE A NEW LEWK! . . . and have started using creative spellings like “lewk” (possibly incorrectly). Let us know what you think!

And speaking of memories, and making them . . . Multi-generational travel is now more popular than ever, with generous grandparents taking their families on both international and domestic adventures. One cool nonna is taking her 12-year-old grandson to Spain, where we’ve arranged for them to see a professional soccer match and take a boat/ picnic excursion (she, perhaps wisely, declined the motorcycle sidecar). For another extended family group, we arranged an exclusive visit to Stonehenge, where the clients arrived by helicopter afterhours for a private guided tour.

The possibilities are endless.

Whether you’re a seasoned traveler or a neophyte, we would love to hear from you! Send us your story! Where do you want to go? What’s one of your favorite travel anecdotes?

We are very much indebted to you, our “family” of clients, who continue to entrust us with the all-important task of planning your travel. Thank you!

Your friendly travel agents, Margaret & Ellison

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TRAVEL FIRSTS A walk (or train ride, or camel ride, or cruise) down memory lane . . .

Margaret Kemp

paris, france “I remember my first stay at The Ritz with my four sisters and cousin. We had four connecting rooms which was great when we returned from shopping! Then enjoying cocktails at the famous Hemingway Bar and high tea in the salon. WOW!!! Such fun exploring Paris and staying at The Ritz!”

Ann McFerran

versailles, france

Nancy O’Brien

“I’ll always remember seeing Versailles with all of my friends after we graduated.

I just kept thinking I’d never seen anything so beautiful.

I wanted to move right in!”

cannes, france rome, italy vatican city “I will never forget the first time I traveled. I was 15 and travelled to Cannes, France, to visit my aunt and uncle and five cousins. We were ages 17, 15, 15, 14, 12, and 11. My uncle was an executive with IBM, and we all piled into their Pontiac station wagon and drove to Rome.

I most remember walking right into the Vatican (no lines!), and visiting the Sistine Chapel. We were the ONLY people in there and lay on the benches for hours looking at Michelangelo’s magnificent ceiling. Keep in mind that was in 1964. I have traveled to Rome a number of times since, and never had such a sweet experience.”

Paula Lee

new zealand

Katherine Wyrick

arles, france “I’ll never forget my first trip to France. My family rented a small stone cottage (which seemed like a castle to me) outside of Arles. Every morning we walked into the village and said, ‘Bonjour, Ibis!’ to the neighbor’s dog along the way. I felt like a little French girl.”

Send us your story!

Where do you want to go?

“I’ll never forget the first time I went to New Zealand.

I had told everyone before I left that I was going to be brave and bungy jump. When we got to Kawarau Bridge, I looked at it and hesitated but knew I was not backing down.

I got strapped in and stood on the edge, leaned forward and did a swan dive off the bridge!

It was the most exhilarating thing I have ever done.”

READ MORE

Sometimes travel does NOT meet our expectations, but the result can make for a good story, as Beth Walter found out on a FAM trip ( familiarization trip) to Egypt in the early ’80s.

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cruise news

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River Cruising for Families It’s a travel myth we’d like to dispel—that river cruising is not a family-friendly affair.

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The Comeback of Egypt River Cruises Comfort Worthy of the Pharaohs

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lodging we love

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The Waiting Game Our excitement over the UK’s most delayed hotel

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Italian Glamour at the Effervescent L’Albereta Forget you’re a hotel guest and instead imagine you’re visiting a reclusive Italian movie star.

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Best in Snow

Ellison and friends traveled far north, to Wolf Lodge, a unique eco-conscious luxury lodge near the town of Narvik.

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experiences

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Togetherness One of the hottest trends in travel these days? Taking a trip with three or more generations of your family.

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A Matter of Taste The Finest Culinary Tour of India Bar Naan

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sketchbook

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Cruise News SOLO TRAVEL WITH ABERCROMBIE & KENT

AMA WATERWAYS

“You can go your own way . . .”

Solo travel is an uncommonly rewarding way to experience the world. That’s because it gives you the time and space to reflect, get inspired, and take risks in a far-flung environment. The good news is, small group travel is a great fit for solo guests looking to expand their horizons.

Recently honored as the “Best Cruise Line for Solo Travelers”

Solo? So fun!

Traveling with a companion is great, sure, but traveling alone has its own rewards. For one thing, solo travel can be the ultimate in self-indulgence; you can rest when you want and get going when you’re feeling ambitious. You can find your own rhythm, change plans on a dime, do what you want when you want—and if that’s not freedom, we don’t know what is!

Recently honored as the “Best Cruise Line for Solo Travelers,” AmaWaterways offers an incredible experience for individuals who want to explore on their own—without paying any additional fees.

Mingle with fellow guests, join in on included excursions, and enjoy all of the comfort of having your own spacious stateroom.

Ama offers independent travelers three ways to enjoy single occupancy staterooms with no additional single supplement fees. Whether you’re a first-time or seasoned solo traveler, you’ll appreciate the caring service of Ama’s staff.

Solo travelers cruising with AmaWaterways enjoy the following: • Service of an attentive crew that recognizes your preferences • An invitation to an exclusive Welcome Cocktail Reception • A welcoming dining environment • An invitation to dine at the Captain’s Table • Assistance with planning your ideal shore excursion program

You can feel secure traveling with Poe and A&K. Why?: • Guides who already know your locale • Travel on your own but never alone • Safety and security are our first concern—and your last • “Me” Time but with instant companions • Meaningful, authentic experiences without distraction • Experience a home away from home—in style A&K also has some amazing savings on single supplements with these itineraries: “Wings Over the Mediterranean,” “Alaska Wilderness & Wildlife,” “Essence of Italy,” “Iceland: Geysers & Glaciers,” and so many more.

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AMA have a great time!

AMA WATERWAYS

NEW

MEDIEVAL TREASURES

Experience the romantic spirit of the peaceful Rhine and Main rivers. Marvel at some of Europe’s grandest jewels, such as the Würzburg Residenz palace, the university town of Heidelberg, and picturesque Miltenberg, with its half-timbered houses that lean crookedly against one another. You rarely have to wander far from the river bank to discover a wealth of European art, culture, history and architecture. That’s why we’re ecstatic about Medieval Treasures, a new Rhine & Main itinerary. Call us for more details!

GETTING SHIP SHAPE FOR 2018 AmaWaterways is expanding its Wellness Sailings for 2018 to six ships! The seven-night program, which was tested onboard the 158-passenger AmaLyra last year, includes a dedicated wellness instructor and four to six scheduled daily fitness activities including group yoga, running, and tai chi classes.

It also includes onboard exercise equipment— all the old standbys, such as treadmills, stationary bikes, and ellipticals, along with bicycles, helmets, and Nordic walking sticks for onshore exploration.

Starting in 2018, AmaCerto, AmaPrima, AmaSonata, AmaDante and AmaDolce will all offer the program, in addition to AmaLyra.

And if you want to get crazy and pair your exercise with healthy eating (or sneak eat carbs), you can do that, too! Offerings include vitamin shots, fresh fish, cage-free eggs, and crate-free pork. Low-sodium, gluten-free, and vegetarian options are also available.

2019 NEWS With brand new ships, the AmaMora, AmaMagna, and AmaDouro joining their award-winning fleet in 2019, AMA is also rolling out an exclusive Wellness Program across all of their European itineraries, plus itinerary enhancements, updated pre-cruise hotel/land extensions, and 60 exciting Wine Cruises. So many choices for your next river cruise journey!

Aside from AmaWaterways, a number of river cruise lines have gotten on the wellness wagon.

Last spring, Uniworld Boutique River Cruises expanded its partnership with Butterfield & Robinson by introducing 2018 itineraries along the Rhine River. The new, seven-night “port and pedal” program will run in May, June and September 2018 aboard the S.S. Antoinette.

Croatia-based river cruise company Katarina Line announced that it would offer two different “Cycle & Cruise” programs—one seven-night cycle itinerary out of Opatija Kvarner Bay, with guided cycling tours on a lot of the Bay’s islands, and another less physically demanding sailing called the “Light Bike & Hike.”

And Emerald Waterways has started introducing itineraries on Portugal’s Douro River that feature daily yoga classes on the ship’s sun deck.

For Big Time Adventure in Antarctica, Think Small Antarctica is a check box on nearly every traveler’s life list; yet in order to experience its icy expanse to the fullest, you have to think small. Zegrahm Expeditions’ small-ship adventures connects you with the Great White Continent in a way that simply isn’t possible on larger vessels.

The maneuverability of a small ship—and its fleet of Zodiacs—makes all the difference when exploring Antarctica. Most places on the seventh continent and South Georgia only allow 100 people ashore at any given time— the exact number of guests accommodated aboard the all-suite Island Sky. So, unlike larger ships that have fewer places to land and, when they do, need to split travelers into multiple groups (who then have only a fraction of the time to explore), a Zegrahm expedition allows every guest to go ashore at the same time and stay for the entire duration of the call.

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OCEANIA CRUISES

Sea food We’re excited to report that Oceania Cruises, the best in show for the culinary-minded, recently introduced 80 new itineraries! We’re reminded of the old joke, “I’m on a seafood diet . . . Whenever I see food I eat it!” And dine well you will on all of these new voyages.

It’s a diverse set of itineraries that features more than 85 overnight stays and late departures, affording you in-depth explorations that combine insider experiences with the best cuisine at sea. With six ships spanning the globe from the Adriatic to Alaska, Oceania Cruises offers the widest and most diverse array of destination-focused itineraries and the most extended port stays of any cruise line in its class. Voyages range from 7 to 44 days and feature a refreshing mix of popular destinations, boutique ports, and quaint seaside villages.

Europe & The Americas 2019 Collection Highlights: • 104 itineraries, 80 of them brand new including an amazing 40 new Mediterranean voyages, 18 new Baltic, Scandinavia & Northern Europe journeys, 5 new Alaska sailings, 6 new Canada & New England voyages and 10 new Tropics cruises.

• Savor the Mediterranean in an entirely new way with an extensive collection of boutique ports of call such as Ajaccio, Corsica; Crotone, Italy and brand new this season, Castellón, a 13th-century secret hideaway on Spain’s orange grove-dotted Costa Azahar.

• Explore more of Italy, Spain, France, and Portugal with new country-intensive voyages. Eight new itineraries focus singularly on Italy or Spain or the Iberian Peninsula and French wine country and include overnight stays in Venice, Lisbon, and Bordeaux.

• Explorations that sail farther north than ever before in Europe, venturing to Greenland, Iceland and off-the-beaten path ports in Norway such as mountainous Bodo, which is just north of the Arctic Circle and Haugesund, known as the Homeland of the Viking Kings.

• Regatta explores the rugged coasts of the frontier state with even more diverse itineraries where guests will encounter the jaw-dropping scenery and abundant wildlife of Seward and Kodiak, Alaska. A total of eight distinct 7- and 10- day itineraries are offered.

• The bliss of Bermudian island culture takes center stage on all-new 7-day Bermuda voyages aboard Insignia as do the charm and history of Canada & New England aboard Riviera, making her debut in New York City.

• Insignia reprises her tremendously popular Journeys to Cuba which include overnight stays in Havana, Cienfuegos, and Santiago de Cuba.

Sailing roundtrip from Miami, a total of 9 summer and autumn departures are offered, ranging from 7 to 11 days.

FROM OUR TRAVELERS

“ Charles and I are back home after a wonderful two weeks in France and Spain—beautiful scenery, interesting fellow travelers, good food, and even better wine! We loved our first time in Barcelona and hope to return someday. I’ve already made a reservation for AMA’s African safari! . . .

Here I’m pictured with the chef of the Provence cooking class! I loved it! We made stuffed baby vegetables.”

TARANA LIZOTTE ABOARD THE AMACELLO

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TAUCK

River cruising for families It’s a travel myth we’d like to dispel—that river cruising is not a family-friendly affair. Just turn to Tauck for proof. Award-Winning Family River Cruises Tauck Bridges has been designing and guiding family river cruises for 7+ years—all-inclusive family vacations with exciting shore excursions, onboard activities, and exclusive experiences all designed with families in mind. Because river cruising is a great way to travel at any age!

Here are some reasons why their river cruises are an extraordinary way to explore the heart of Europe with your loved ones, big and small: Kids love all the kid-friendly activities and excursions, onboard amenities, and sharing the fun with other kids their age, while parents and grandparents appreciate the ease and elegance of river cruising—and the fact that virtually every expense is included. One upfront price covers all shore excursions led by handpicked local guides and Tauck Directors; unlimited complimentary beverages aboard ship; gratuities for Tauck Directors, the Tauck

Cruise Director, ship staff, local guides, and drivers; and much more. Without having to reach for your wallet constantly (except when acting as a personal ATM for grandkids), you can enjoy your vacation a lot more.

On river cruises, your “hotel” comes along with you as you travel, so your family unpacks only once and doesn’t pack up again until it’s time to go home.

Tauck’s family river cruises also offer great flexibility and variety with just the right balance of shared activities and downtime. They’re just the right blend of culturally–immersive guided sightseeing ashore, organized onboard fun, and time for just relaxing and doing as your family pleases.

On a Tauck Bridges family river cruise, you expose your children or grandchildren to the history, food, culture, and beauty of Europe in ways the kids can appreciate. Sail right into the heart of historic European cities and quaint towns with Directors, who make sure you all see, learn and do more than you ever could on your own.

NEW

Bon Voyage! France Family River Cruise Investigate the picturesque towns along the River Rhône, meet real French cowboys in La Camargue, and spend two nights in Paris.

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Family Fun Along the Seine: Paris to Normandy Explore Northern France—two nights in Paris plus Versailles, Rouen, Monet’s Gardens, D-Day beaches, and more.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

Allow us to introduce the National Geographic Global Explorers Program!

Kids learn about the other Drake!

Kids can take part in fun activites... and make new friends!

Nat Geo’s exclusive new family friendly cruise program is smart fun for kids and teens, and we couldn’t be more excited. Developed in conjunction with National Geographic Education, their unique kids’ program recently launched in Galápagos and begins this year in Alaska.

Kids and teens choose cool activities—from earning a Zodiac “driver’s license” to recording wildlife sightings in a Field Notebook—all designed to help them develop what National Geographic Education defines as the attitudes, skills, and knowledge of an explorer.

Guests under 18 will: • Have fun! They’ll take part in daily fun activities, all while making new friends and lifelong memories.

• Benefit from National Geographic certified field educators: Their naturalists, newly minted as National Geographic certified field educators, optimize daily learning opportunities.

• Connect with nature: They’ll have direct contact with wildlife above and below the sea, such as snorkeling with sea lions in Galapagos and identifying whale flukes from the ship’s bow in Alaska.

• Learn to be a storyteller: Through photos, videos, music, drawing, and more, kids can use their creativity to tell stories about the unique things they’ll do and see along the way.

• Develop their observation skills: Daily “In the Field” activities will prompt kids to watch out for a particular item, like a creature with scales or a giant coral head on land, then record their observations in their Field Notebooks.

The National Geographic Global Explorers’ bulletin board is headquarters for daily activities and challenges, and kids can choose what they’d like to participate in each day. And schedules and activities both onboard and off ship are designed with families in mind: enjoy kid-friendly menus, movie night with pizza, a choice of hikes, and more.

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MILDRED AND MARGARET

Sea Sides Greece, Croatia, & Italy FIRST STOP GREECE: Standing in the shadow of the Acropolis feels otherworldly, and Greece is full of such transcendent moments. Ancient sun-bleached ruins pierce blue skies as the Aegean laps at the endless coastline.

Margaret, Mildred, and crew recently dove into the crystal waters and cultural treasure chest that is Greece.

After a foray into Athens, Margaret, Mildred, Ann McFerran, and Mildred’s granddaughter, Katherine, headed to striking Santorini. With its multicolored cliffs soaring above a sea-drowned caldera, Santorini looks like a giant piece of layered baklava (but that could just be our taste buds talking). The main island of Thira will take your breath away with its snowdrift of white Cycladic houses lining the cliff tops and, in places, spilling like icy cornices down the terraced rock. When the sun sets, the reflection on the buildings and the glow of the orange and red in the cliffs is gasp-inducing.

Margaret, Mildred, et al. lunched at the beautifully restored Canava Villa, where they gazed out over the caldera whilst dining

on a feast of lamb, hummus, and octopus, hosted by the gracious and charming general manager. Margaret wistfully recalls, “It’s glorious. The suites look as if they’re hanging off the cliff . . .it’s located away from touristy part of the island which is nice. You can swim, take a boat ride, ride a funicular up to top of city . . . This is where you want to be on the island.” They toured the coastline in a boat and took a dip in the azure waters.

When leaving Santorini, Margaret urges travelers to come armed with patience (and maybe some spanakopita for a snack). “The tiny airport is chaos. You’re crowded in like Greek sardines; there’s only one gate and two terminals; you’ll be corralled in groups. Be prepared for pushing.”

At least a fantastic meal at picturesque Voltaire was awaiting them at the other end in Athens. It’s located right on the water and all the windows open up to take in the sparkling sea. They also enjoyed a fine breakfast overlooking the Acropolis before departing to Dubrovnik.

NEXT ON TO CROATIA: “Those who seek paradise on Earth must come to Dubrovnik,” as George Bernard Shaw once said. As Margaret once said, “it’s even more beautiful than Greece.” You feel transported from the moment you arrive at the cool airport with its carefully curated art collection. As in Greece, boats are key to the experience—from Dubrovnik you can board a boat and move throughout the whole Adriatic. In addition to exploring the beautiful Elafiti Islands, they toured the old city and visited Pucic Palace in the heart of it, which is a perfect place to stay during the off season. “The old city is getting filled with vendors catering to the cruise market so many of the merchants have moved out which is kind of unfortunate. That said, there’s a fantastic restaurant there.”

Longtime Poe pal Vanja Jelić Stjepović at ADT (Adriatic Travel Collection) was the consummate hostess and guide. They swam in the crystal waters, snacked on figs and local brandy, and (brace yourself for plethora of prepositions) dined on a riverbank in Konavle on lamb prepared in a fireplace

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From teenagers to grandmothers and those in between, London has something for everyone. This past summer Margaret Kemp and daughter Rebecca (21) and Mildred Cooper and grandson Hank (14) took a memory-making trip to England (with the help of our dream team at Dream Escape). They stayed at our beloved Goring, an excellent jumping off point from which to see the sights.

under an iron bell (not a typo). They enjoyed their tour of the border region between Croatia and Montenegro and even spied Steve Jobs’ yacht.

If all this fails to convince you that a trip to Croatia is in order, we offer the following reasons you should visit now: 1. It’s safe.

2. Just about everyone speaks English.

3. The food is outstanding.

4. The café culture is lively.

5. It’s easy to get around.

6. It’s rich in history and culture.

7. They produce great local wines and beers.

8. Sunshine, sunshine, sunshine! (almost year-round) 9. Their hospitality is legendary.

10. The scenery is gorgeous.

11. The morning markets are glorious.

12. There’s a variety of attractions for just about every special interest (i.e. olive oil and winery tours, hiking, birding, fishing, yachting, swimming, history, mountains, beaches, museums, and even skiing).

13. Dubrovnik is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

14. The spirit of zivili—the toast “be filled with life”—is alive and well.

LAST STOP ITALY: The group then jumped an Easy Jet to Milan and headed to Lake Como, where they dined with George Clooney at his villa (in their dreams). The next day they boarded yet another craft and enjoyed a full day on the lake, which is surrounded by mountains. (Margaret’s advice: stay on the right side of the lake to get maximum sunshine). They stayed at stylish Grand Hotel Tremetzo and visited The Villa d’Este (a UNESCO site) in Tivoli (one of the most remarkable illustrations of Renaissance culture you’ll find). They also stopped in the town of Bellagio where they were charmed by the waterfront of bobbing boats, maze of steep stone staircases, and rhododendron-filled gardens. They loved their guide, Roberta.

They also retreated to The Albereta, a spa with vistas of Lake Iseo, between the hills and vineyards of Franciacorta where they enjoyed an exclusive visit to the family cellars at Bellavista and Contadi Castaldi. Italian firearm maker Beretta is close by as is the place where Venetian boats are made.

Among other activities, they enjoyed: • A boat ride on the Thames • The Tower of London (always sure to pique a young person’s ghoulish curiosity) • The Magical World of Harry Potter (ditto) • A Westminster Walking Tour • A tour of Oxford and Blenheim Palace (birthplace of Winston Churchill) A highlight for all was seeing the play “The Play That Goes Wrong,” a madcap comedy about a bank robbery. Mildred gives it four stars and raves, “It was so much fun!”—“Comic gold!” exclaims Margaret.—The kids cheer, “The funniest play we’ve ever seen!”—“More hilarity than a Monty Python marathon!” a stranger shrieks hysterically.

They also had excellent meals at Poe favorites, Palm Court Brassiere in Covent Garden and The Wolseley.

Let us plan your multi-generational family trip to London so you can make memories, too!

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CRYSTAL CRUISES

Strait talk New Crystal Ship for Northwest Passage Crystal Cruises will not be sending Crystal Serenity along the Northwest Passage in 2019.

Instead, they’ll be returning to the Northwest Passage at a future date with a new, smaller expedition ship, Crystal Endeavor, which will be a polar-class vessel.

Crystal Serenity first made the voyage in 2016 and recently finished her second.

Crystal Endeavor will be the world’s first purposebuilt Polar Code-compliant megayacht. Measuring 600 feet long, the 25,000 gross ton new-build with 100 guest suites is claimed to be the largest and most spacious megayacht afloat. With a PC6 Polar Class designation, she will be able to cruise in polar regions during the summer and autumn. Delivery is expected in August 2018.

Crystal Endeavor will be able to carry about 200 passengers, significantly fewer than Crystal Serenity’s 1,000. A smaller vessel lessens the environmental impact and allows for more flexibility in the itinerary.

Crystal Serenity sailed from Alaska, through the Canadian Arctic to Greenland and then New York, the first large luxury cruise vessel to navigate the route, with the vessel maneuvering through 900 miles of waterways lined with glaciers and fjords north of mainland Canada. As a precaution, the vessel was fitted with ice navigation equipment.

She was also accompanied by an escort vessel, the Antarctic research ship Ernest Shackleton.

At 32 days, the Northwest Passage cruise is one of the longest offered by Crystal. It’s also one of the most expensive, with fares ranging from around $20,000 to over $120,000 per person. Its bragging rights also outweigh those of other ships.

SILVERSEA CRUISES

This Cruise Line Is Adding Gorilla Treks and Volcano Hikes to Its Itineraries Silversea and silverbacks? Yes! Silversea Cruises just announced voyages to some of the world’s most remote destinations. Some experiences feel off-limits, the kind of thing only the most adventurous traveler can accomplish. Think summiting a glacier-capped volcano in Iceland; watching a horse race in Mongolia; spotting mountain gorillas in their natural Rwandan habitat; or being among the privileged few to visit the South Pole. They also, at first sight, appear to be the exact opposite of going on a cruise. But Silversea Cruises announced its new portfolio—and it includes the ability to add the six- to 11-day land excursions onto your sea adventure.

Approaching its 25th anniversary, Silversea surveyed its guests to see what their dream destinations and most sought-after cultural experiences might be. Once the feedback came in, they set about bringing those surveys to life, resulting in what they’ve called the Couture Collection. The set of itineraries, in addition to the aforementioned volcano summits and gorilla treks, also includes the opportunity to float above the Namibian desert in a hot air balloon before a cruise along Africa’s

southwest coast; to visit the world’s largest salt flat in Bolivia after a cruise on the Silver Cloud Expedition; and to explore the Australian Outback after sailing along Oz’s Western Territory.

These experiences all require a good amount of energy, but we imagine returning after a week to the comfort of a ship with a fitness center, salon, and on-board spa might help keep your strength up. Call us for more details!

Approaching its 25th anniversary, Silversea surveyed its guests to see what their dream destinations and most sought-after cultural experiences might be.

FROM OUR TRAVELERS

“ Hey, team Poe Travel. I wanted to thank all of you for helping make great memories for us! We had such a great trip.

I have included a picture of the last day on the Mara with David [Sugden] and Joe our guide; it was sad to leave them.”

STEVE REYNOLDS AND FAMILY IN KENYA

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A&K

A&K

The Comeback of Egypt River Cruises A&K has added new dates for its 10-day Egypt and the Nile Luxury Small Group Journey. A&K is offering two new departures of its Petra to the Pyramids and a Nile Yacht Cruise journey, which combines Jordan and Egypt. The sites are relatively crowd-free, which makes for a very special experience. In the past, you’d be surrounded by hundreds of other tourists.

The Nile on Board Sanctuary “Sun Boat IV”

Panoramic, floorto-ceiling windows on most decks grant sweeping views of the Nile’s fertile shore; watch as grasses rustle in the wind, and vibrant, red lotus flowers appear in the fall.

PHO T O S COURTE SY: EMILY SL ADE PH O T O G RAPH Y

Comfort Worthy of the Pharaohs Among the key decorative styles of the early 20th century, Art Deco arose just as the West’s fascination with Egypt reached its peak; its signature motifs included numerous borrowings from ancient Egyptian design. It is particularly appropriate, then, that guests boarding “Sun Boat IV” are greeted with a stunning Art Deco-inspired interior, conceived by A&K Vice Chairman Jorie Butler Kent and executed

by Egyptian designer Mohammed Naoman.

Panoramic, floor-to-ceiling windows on most decks grant sweeping views of the Nile’s fertile shore; watch as grasses rustle in the wind, and vibrant, red lotus flowers appear in the fall. Rich, warm teak flooring graces all of the vessel’s outdoor spaces, lending a regal but welcoming air. Modern comforts coexist in harmony with vintage decoration: for example, all cabins are air-conditioned and feature

flatscreen televisions and direct-dial international telephones. A multi-language library also includes an Internet-ready computer for keeping in touch with home.

The Sun Deck is adorned with luxurious Egyptian marble as well as soft canvas sunshades. A tiled swimming pool and ornamental water feature complete the amenities.

Beyond its well-appointed interior, “Sun Boat IV” offers A&K’s customary exquisite dining and peerless service, including excursions to the Nile’s greatest temples and monuments led by A&K’s incomparable Egyptian guides.

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Let’s go Galapagos!

This pristine chain of volcanic islands that make up the Galapagos is located 604 miles west of mainland Ecuador. One of the most biodiverse places on earth, the Galapagos Islands are a mecca for nature enthusiasts. They were, of course, made famous by Charles Darwin who studied the island’s fantastic array of species, which ultimately contributed to his theory of evolution. The island’s endemic fauna and flora are as fascinating today as they were in 1835. The islands’ moonlike landscapes, interspersed with rugged vegetation, create an other-worldly atmosphere, yet they are a haven for a flourishing population of marine iguanas, sea lions, giant tortoises, and an exceptional array of birds such as the blue-footed boobie, frigate bird, and flightless cormorant.

There are many choices in the Galapagos, but we’re big fans of Lindblad—not only because of their expert guides but because of their dedication to conservation. And, because a Lindblad trip is packed with adventure and just so much fun! You’ll be snorkeling, hiking, paddleboarding, and cruising

by Zodiac. You’ll encounter animals unafraid of you.

You’ll make friends and memories.

The Galapagos is one of those places that inspires you to think differently about the world— which makes it perfect for a memorable, multi-gen family trip! ... You’ll be snorkeling, hiking, paddleboarding, and cruising by Zodiac. You’ll encounter animals unafraid of you. You’ll make friends and memories.

It’s a great time to go, too, as Lindblad celebrates its 50th anniversary year there with the brandnew National Geographic Endeavour II and the yacht-scaled National Geographic Islander. Since the first international tourist expedition cruise to the Galapagos Islands in July 1967 with Lars-Eric Lindblad, they’ve introduced generations of people to these strange and wonderful islands, the world’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. And how great that there are sailings twice weekly, all year round.

NEW

Introducing 2 New Itineraries with Free Charter Air

Enjoy free round-trip air from Ecuador to Galápagos on 2 new itineraries, “Wild Galápagos Escape” and “Wild Galápagos and Peru Escape.” Aboard the yachtlike National Geographic Islander.

Pack a ton of adventure into one action-packed week on “Wild Galápagos Escape.”

With multiple activities each day on land and under the sea, including options for walks and hikes, kayaking, paddle boarding, and snorkeling.

Experience the best of Galápagos, and Machu Picchu too, in nine action packed days on “Wild Galápagos and Peru Escape.”

Starting in Lima, stay two nights in the Sacred Valley, enjoy fabled Machu Picchu and see Cusco, imperial capital of the Inca. Then journey to Galápagos to actively explore each day on land and under the sea, and encounter the abundant, iconic wildlife.

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TRAVEL FIRSTS CONTINUED...

Sometimes travel does NOT meet our expectations, but the result can make for a good story, as Beth Walter found out on a FAM trip (familiarization trip) to Egypt in the early ’80s.

“Egypt had always held my interest, and back then Fred Poe was in the habit of sending agents on yearly fam trips. The Poe Travel office Manager at the time, Sheila MeHaffey, also wanted to go, so off we went on what ended up being a wild and crazy—and totally fascinating—adventure.

The excitement began the minute we landed in Cairo and had to navigate through armed guards, heavy fences, crowds of people, and sand! The floors were literally covered with it, making the task of pushing a luggage cart particularly challenging. No one offered to assist us, and many of the locals just laughed. We had arrived before the group so we weren’t met by anyone from the tour company, which meant we were essentially on our own. We eventually got through customs, a harried process in itself, and headed out to try and find the best way into the city. A heavily armed policeman ushered us into a taxi, and before we knew it we were off at a fast clip in bumper-to-bumper traffic. We actually hit a pedestrian en route (though he seemed, for the most part, fine). It was total chaos.

The rest of the day was a comedy of errors, which included trying to reach the Museum of Antiquities, across the street from our hotel but inaccessible due to the sea of traffic.

The next day we were scheduled to fly out of Cairo . . . our destination: Abu Simbel to see the Tomb of Ramses II, which had been relocated during the construction of the High Dam. It was the highlight of the trip—and possibly a lifetime—and well worth the expense of the small plane. It was amazing.

The group was to arrive the next day to begin our much-anticipated river cruise on the Nile. Spirits were high as we spotted the beautiful, new ships dotting the river, but our hearts sank when we spotted ours, which sat at the end of the row of lovely bobbing boats looking like something straight out of ‘The African Queen’ (minus Bogart). There before us was an old, unpainted wood riverboat, a real mess of a thing. How were we going to spend seven days on that? Well, despite the initial shock, it turned out to be a great experience and a lesson in going with the flow. The food was good, the staff attentive, and we made memories to last a lifetime!”

NOTHING LIKE THE FEELING OF SAND BETWEEN YOUR TOES!

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ANN MCFERRAN

A magical, mystical tour of Peru Cusco, Machu, Sacred Valley, Lake Titicaca, Arequipa Ann and her Belmond group began their journey with a tour of Peru’s capital, Lima.

Lima was the capital of the Spanish empire, and its historic center boasts squares, churches, and buildings which date back to the colonial period. Among other sights, they visited La Plaza Mayor with its cathedral and the Government Palace and La Iglesia de San Francisco. They also got a taste of the more traditional residential areas—El Olivar in San Isidro, with 17th-century olive trees from Spain; Miraflores’ Central Park, and “Larco Mar,” a symbol of modern Lima. They stayed at Belmond Miraflores Park Hotel, a verdant sanctuary in Lima’s hottest district.

On to Cusco where they visited Qoricancha Temple and Santo Domingo Church, together perhaps the most vivid illustration in Cusco of Andean culture’s collision with Western Europe, and the Cathedral of Cusco. The afternoon ended with a visit to the fortress of Sacsayhuaman.

They also stayed at beautiful Belmond Hotel Monasterio, an ancient monastery that has been at the heart of the city for centuries. There they dined by candlelight among the cloisters and explored the hotel’s unparalleled art and antique collection. It’s one of the city’s true gems.

Next day they departed on the deluxe Hiram Bingham to Machu Picchu, a train journey as mystical as the destination. Whilst on board they lunched on lama ravioli and cozied up in 1920s-style carriages as they made their way to the heart of the Inca Empire. They also enjoyed live entertainment from traditional musicians and dancers.

They had a private tour of the ruins (a must to avoid the throngs) and teatime at Belmond Sanctuary Lodge. They returned to Cusco on the Hiram Bingham and shared insights about their adventure over a gourmet dinner.

Overnight again at the Belmond Hotel Monasterio before a short scenic drive to the Sacred Valley of the Incas. They visited Chinchero, known to the Incas as

the birthplace of the rainbow. Set on a high plain with sweeping views of snow-laden peaks, this quintessential Andean village combines Inca ruins with a colonial church, some wonderful mountain views, and a colorful market. There they visited the textile workshop of Nilda Callañaupa, a renowned textile expert, who demonstrated traditional weaving techniques and discussed the role of weaving in contemporary Andean life. They lunched at lovely Belmond Rio Sagrado Hotel.

The afternoon brought a tour of Ollantaytambo, site of one of the great Inca fortresses and sacred areas in the Urubamba Valley. The town is one of the oldest continuously occupied settlements in the Americas with 16 massive terraces that are a testimony to the magnificent Inca masonry.

Ann climbed the steep stone steps up to the imposing fortress at the top of the mountain.

In late afternoon, they returned to Cusco to dine at Belmond Palacio Nazarenas.

Next day, they departed on the Belmond Andean Explorer train to Puno. South

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FUN FACT: Ann reports that baby llamas are terribly sweet for snuggling but quite odoriferous.

America’s first luxury sleeper train glides from Cusco across the lofty Andean plains to the white city of Arequipa. They took in the region’s spectacular highlights en route, including Lake Titicaca and Colca Canyon.

After lunch on board, they stopped in Raqchi, also known as the Temple of Wiracocha. There they visited another significant Inca site and later stopped at La Raya, which marks the border between the regions of Cusco and Puno and is the highest point in the route. After overnighting on the train (such fun!), they arrived early in Puno and took a boat to the Uros floating Islands. “Uru” was the name of an ethnic group that co-existed in Lake Titicaca with the Incas, Aymaras, and possibly with older civilizations.

They continued to Taquile Island and beautiful Collata beach. Taquileños are known for their fine handwoven textiles and clothing, which are regarded as among the highest-quality handicrafts in Peru. Knitting is exclusively performed by males, starting

at age eight. Women spin the wool and use vegetables and minerals to dye it.

Taquileños are known for their fine handwoven textiles and clothing, which are regarded as among the highest-quality handicrafts in Peru.

Back to Puno, overnight on board, and then an early morning arrival in Lagunillas. They lake is magnificent and the perfect site for seeing and learning about the region’s fauna, especially birds.

They then departed to Arequipa, enjoying the scenery along the way, landscapes dotted with lamas, alpacas, and vicuñas and nice views of the Andes Ranges and the volcanoes of Arequipa Region.

A highlight was a stop at Sumbay Caves, which features hundreds of 6,000-year-old paintings and engravings of local wildlife, including herds of guanaco, a relative of the llama that still lives in Peru’s high sierra.

Next stop Belmond Las Casitas.

The Colca Valley boasts some of the most breath-taking landscapes in Peru: towering snow-capped peaks, deep canyons, superb terracing, and villages dating back to the 16th century. Along this breath-taking canyon lie 14 beautifully preserved colonial towns. They also caught sight of the famous Andean Condors—worshiped by the Incas as the messengers of the Gods—as they soared over a canyon even deeper than the Grand Canyon.

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Lodging We Love NAPA VALLEY

Heard It Through the Grape Vine Since the devastating fires, tourism in Napa and Sonoma has been steadily getting back on its feet.

Depending on where your Wine Country adventure takes you, you may not see the fire scars at all.

You’re in for a rare treat should you find your way to lovely Las Alcobas in Napa Valley, a one-of-a-kind resort nestled in St. Helena, California. Occupying a stately Georgian-style farmhouse originally constructed in 1907 and situated adjacent to the storied Beringer vineyards, the hotel offers a curated travel experience in the heart of California’s Wine Country.

Elegantly designed using luxurious natural materials and a soothing, neutral palette, this historic resort boasts 68 rooms and suites, many of which feature a beautiful outdoor terrace and vineyard views. Guestrooms are spectacularly appointed with Rivolta linens, oversize bathrooms, and customdesigned furniture. Enjoy a revitalizing treatment in atrio, their signature spa, savor world-class dining at Acacia House by star chef Chris Cosentino, or celebrate a special occasion in one of their intimate event spaces.

It’s also just a ten-minute walk from downtown Saint Helena, one of the oldest communities in the

valley. This means you can eat a famous English muffin at Model Bakery, get a burger at the original Gott’s Roadside, or shop in one of the many galleries and boutiques without setting foot in a car. Unlike

HOTEL TIPS: Skip dessert and roast s’mores over your terrace’s fire pit, or curl up with a blanket and watch the night sky’s light show.

Mix your own therapeutic oil at Atrio Spa’s aromatherapy bar. most properties in the valley, you can also walk to many wineries. We’d like to raise a glass to that!

Wow Factor: Here, the grape vines are right outside your room. It’s one of the only hotels in the region to overlook a vineyard—Beringer Estate, one of Napa Valley’s oldest wineries.

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Tiger, tiger burning bright What is better than glamping? A luxurious, 1940s colonial lodge right in the middle of the forest, of course. And that is exactly what The Ultimate Traveling Camp (TUTC), a pioneer of glamping in India, is offering at its new improved Jaagir Lodge in Dudhwa National Park in the Terai region of Uttar Pradesh.

Located close to the Indo-Nepal border, the newly rebranded farmstead is open from December to June, the best time of the year for spotting game like Bengal tigers, one-horned rhinos, Indian crocodiles, 12-horned deer, and more.

You can choose between seven luxury suites and very soon there will also be two villas and four stilted villas on offer. Right in the heart of the wilderness, too—it is within walking distance of Dudhwa National Park, the wildlife sanctuaries of

Katarniaghat Kishanpur, and Pilibhit Tiger Reserve.

If you want to learn about the various wildlife conservation efforts in the Terai, they can arrange for you to explore the region with conservationists and naturalists. Learn about the kind of work that has gone into turning the Terai into a home for the Indian one-horned rhinocerous brought from the forests of Assam. Or find out about Project Tiger, the Dudhwa National Park program to protect and conserve the Bengal tiger in the area.

The property is surrounded by sugarcane farms, perfect for bike rides. Or you can take a boat ride on the lakes dotting the landscape and spot a few gharials. Spend the evenings listening to legends about the Tharu people who live in the Terai woods.

You can also sample the heavenly local cuisine.

A flourishing farmstead/holistic hotel As the Portugese countryside becomes a go-to destination for the stylish set, chic hotels are cropping up in bucolic spots, from the rugged coast to the rural interior. A prime example is the recently opened São Lourenço do Barrocal, in the eastern Monsaraz region.

Owned by the same family for eight generations, refurbished estate São Lourenço do Barrocal is a breath of fresh air in an old-world landscape. Set within 1,927 acres of flower-carpeted meadows, centuries-old olive groves, walled gardens, and sunsoaked vineyards, these whitewashed farmhouses have been whipped back into shape, but their brick floors and pinewood furniture ensure they stay faithful to their rural soul. The design is a masterclass in simple, rustic elegance—the perfect pairing for owner José’s heartfelt hospitality, which runs as deep as the roots of the ancient holm oaks on the estate.

The hotel’s restaurant, Alentejo, has a refined look, with stripped-wood tables and a timber-clad bar.

On the far side of the room are a series of custommade shelves displaying all the objects that were found when this building was cleared out—a sort of generational history told through family heirlooms.

The food is focused around time-honored dishes that

let the local flavors shine; tradition and authenticity are at the root of everything here, but the kitchen isn’t afraid of a little contemporary flair to keep things interesting. We’d recommend the partridge, José’s grandmother’s recipe; it’s not only delicious, but also captures what this hotel is all about: the land and the family’s relationship with it. (If it’s warm, there’s a table outside under the awning, which has a great view of the meadow.)

The sprawling estate runs alongside Lake Alqueva, a man-made lake with around 440 verdant islands.

The hotel has painstakingly identified many of the best walking routes that run alongside it—ask the concierge for the one best for you. Just up the road is the Castelo de Monsaraz; you’ll get a panoramic view from the lake-surveying ramparts. Boat trips and watersports are also available. Day-trippers will want to head over to Spain. With this region being so famous for Jabugo ham (black-pig ham), a borderhopping trip for tapas is in order. For something truly memorable, book a hot-air balloon ride high over the Alentejo. You’ll take off from the estate at dawn, rising over the monte itself, before crossing the lake and the tree-clad fields of the wider estate.

Call us to arrange!

FROM OUR TRAVELERS

“ Poe Team, we arrived home last night and just wanted to say the trip could not have gone better. You all did an incredible job! Everything was seamless and made our anniversary experience just that much better. Morgan and I had a hard time deciding on our favorite part because everything was so amazing. Morgan finally landed on Paris, and for me it was the South of France. Thanks again for everything!”

ISAAC SMITH

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The Waiting Game Our excitement over the UK’s most delayed hotel What the heck? Scheduled to open late this year, nearly six years after its original launch date, Heckfield Place is again generating quite a bit of buzz (and we’re not just talking about the bees in the kitchen gardens and orchards). Sources close to the project tell Poe that this country haven in Hampshire is sure to be worth the wait.

Olivia Richli, responsible for helping launch the wildly fabulous Soneva Jani resort in the Maldives, is the GM so Heckfield is sure to be swell. (We hear that final touches include building a helipad to make that jaunt from London even more convenient.)

Richli also spent almost two decades with Aman and managed the launch of both Aman Venice in Italy and Amangalla in Sri Lanka so she knows well that winning mix of luxury, understated opulence, and simplicity.

The 18th-century Georgian manor house and farm, set in 400 acres of countryside, was supposed to open in time for the London Olympics. There was speculation that it might never open, but this time Gerald Chan—the Hong Kong-born real estate tycoon, Harvard graduate, and philanthropist who bought Heckfield Place almost 20 years ago—with Richli at the helm is readying to open those lovely restored doors.

The old house itself, which is grand if not palatial, has six distinctive room types, on the grounds and

in the main house. On the ground floor, corporate trappings (it was once a training center) have been stripped back to reveal plasterwork ceilings and oak shutters. Much of it has required careful restoration.

(Imposing marble fireplaces bear the coats of arms of the first residents.) A bit of history: John Lefevre, a London property owner, completed the house in 1790 for his daughter, Helena, and her husband, Charles Shaw-Lefevre, a Whig politician. The family later sold the estate to Horace Walpole, a descendent of another prominent political family. It went through an awkward phase in the ’80s (but who didn’t?) before being rescued by Chan.

The estate includes orchards, gardens, and a “biodynamic” farm, all intended to supply produce for Marble and Hearth restaurants (headed by chef Skye Gyngell). (At the farmyard, with its handsome old tithe barn, stirs a herd of Jersey cows who will produce milk and cheese.) There’s also the beguilingly named The Magical Moon Bar where one can relax while imbibing one of the bars unique infusions. Other areas are also taking shape . . .

The Bothy Spa now has a 17-metre pool and seven treatment rooms, and there’s also an underground cinema, which will open for public screenings.

Tickets please!

Sources close to the project tell Poe that this country haven in Hampshire is sure to be worth the wait.

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The Grande Dame of the Amalfi Coast In a word, it’s dazzling—the very embodiment of the dreamy Amalfi Coast. (Though it’s impossible to stick to one word when talking about Hotel Santa Caterina; it calls for superlatives.) Hewn from a stunning cliffside, the Hotel Santa Caterina has been in the Gambardella family for generations, which may account for the consistently stellar service and the loyalty of guests, who return year after year. And in the way of classic family-owned hotels, there’s warmth in every little detail here—from the oldschool stationery in every room to the Bellinis fixed in the lobby bar at 5 o’clock.

Allow us to paint a picture . . . Bright bougainvillea blooms adorn corners of the 19th-century mansion, while lush terraced gardens teem with citrus trees and vine-covered pergolas. Feel transported yet? The interiors are equally charming—think light-filled

white rooms decorated in an elegant Mediterranean style, peppered with antique pieces and sweet details such as hand-painted majolica tiles. The sunny guest rooms and suites feature Bulgari toiletries and balconies with sea view so you’ll really feel as though you’ve landed in the lap of luxury. Elevators whisk guests down from the cliff to the beach and a saltwater pool, where chic loungers and parasols line a stone sundeck and uninterrupted vistas await around every corner. The two hotel restaurants, both of which spill out onto terraces, serve up classic fare and fresh seafood (and the best calzone in the world), as does the beachside bar. Even the spa offers a dose of local flavor with a signature Amalfi Gold lemon massage. We told you it was dreamy!

P.S. There’s a reason Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor used to retreat here!

Italian Glamour at the Effervescent L’Albereta

SKY’S THE LIMIT: Now, talk about a room with a view!

In the Cabriolet Suite, you can actually hit a button and open the roof to gaze up at the stars or to let the Brescian sun warm you from the comfort of your bed! The suite also has a balcony facing Lake Iseo.

High in Lombardy’s rolling hills, the vine-clad L’Albereta is the sort of place where you can easily forget you’re a hotel guest and instead imagine you’re visiting a reclusive Italian movie star or visconte.

(Or maybe in this fantasy you are the reclusive star or visconte!) The villa, owned by the winemaking Moretti family, is in Franciacorta, tucked between vineyards and Lake Iseo—in other words, an enchanting spot for an Italian idyll. It’s an area renowned for its sparkling wines which you’ll get to enjoy at Bellavista or Contadi Castaldi wineries, both owned by the Morettis.

The 57 suites and bedrooms all differ from each other, and each has a delightful private outdoor area.

(One is particularly special—see sidebar!)

Just a few steps from the Bellavista family cellar, L’Albereta is a haven for gourmets. The family bistro, the VistaLago, and restaurant LeoneFelice are both run by Michelin-starred Chef Fabio Abbattista.

Dishes at the main restaurant are traditional rustic Italian with a few modern touches: tortelli stuffed with burrata cheese and caviar, cod drizzled with almond mayonnaise, and violet Sanremo prawns served with sweet grapes to name but a few. Lighter, regional fare is served at VistaLago Bistrò. There’s even a pizza kiosk, La Filiale (helmed by Franco Pepe), that offers crisp, tasty masterpieces alongside a list of wines from Franciacorta and beyond. Before or after dinner, sip expertly mixed cocktails at the hotel bar. Should you curl up in an inviting armchair

in the Greeneige Lounge? Or take your glass of local wine out to one of the library’s three terraces? So many choices. If it gets chilly, you can always cozy by the fireplace book and wine in hand.

And then there’s the award-winning, heavenly spa! Espace Vitalité Henri Chenot offers more than the standard scrubs and serene soaks. You can get your diet assessed and your energy tested as you sip the detox tea of the day, or delve deeper into the dizzyingly long menu of medical and aesthetic treatments. They have a dream team of masseurs, beauticians, dieticians, and even osteopaths and doctors. (You’ll find us blissed out, lazing in the spa’s sculpture garden with an herbal tea.)

Brescia is also a golfer’s paradise; there are nine top-class courses in the area, the nearest is the Pete Dye and Marco Croze–designed Franciacorta Golf Club which has an 18-hole championship course and a nine-hole executive course.

Should you be up for a different kind of excursion, you can take to the water at Lake Iseo and hop on a ferry over to Monte Isola, a fairytale-fabulous island entirely without cars and almost entirely free of tourists. Or stay on dry land explore the mediaeval monasteries and verdant vineyards that line the lakes shores.

No matter what you do, we imagine you’ll have no trouble at all easing into the northern Italian pace of life.

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RITZ BITZ: • Last family owned hotel with the highest ratio of employee per room in Europe (600 employees/142 rooms).

• Biggest hotel garden with 1,000 square meters in the heart of the “City of Lights.”

• Two fine dining restaurants: the 2 Michelin starred La Table de L’Espadon for dinner and 1 Michelin starred Les Jardins de L’Espadon for lunch.

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La vie est belle at the iconic Paris grand dame Nothing makes the case for old-world allure quite like the Ritz. In novels, songs, and common parlance, there’s really not a name that better evokes the romance of Paris. Since its opening in 1898, the storied hotel has attracted tout Paris. After a fouryear, top-to-toe renovation, the palace reopened its doors in 2016 in the most hotly anticipated hotel event of the year.

Architect Thierry W. Despont restored the hotel to its former Belle Époque glory—and glorious it is.

Rooms and suites, including the historic Prestige Suites named after the hotel’s most illustrious former guests (Coco Chanel, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Marcel Proust), feature signature 19th-century flourishes and opulent contemporary comforts. Further enhancements include three new restaurants, three bars (including the famed Bar Hemingway), and gorgeous gardens and terraces with retractable roofs and heated floors designed to be enjoyed all year-long. The historic Salon Proust, with its woodburning fireplace, hosts the Ritz Paris’ afternoon tea à la française. Keep up with your exercise regimen (or don’t) in the indoor pool or modern fitness center, or (preferably) indulge in a CHANEL skin care treatment inside a private room at CHANEL au Ritz Paris, the signature Spa. And speaking of privacy, a discreet underground tunnel provides unseen arrivals and departures from the hotel for guests who value the utmost discretion.

CULINARY PURSUITS Learn how to cook bistro classics and the hotel’s signature dishes at Ecole Ritz Escoffier.

The Ritz Escoffier School offers courses for every type of gourmet, from amateurs to seasoned professionals—really anyone who wants to learn more about French Gastronomy. It offers practical and theory classes on cuisine and pastry for all levels and goals and private courses or exceptional gastronomic events for individuals or groups. École Ritz Escoffier now benefits from a third demonstration kitchen added during the renovation. There’s even a “Ritz Kids” program for aspiring young chefs (cupcakes, macarons, and deluxe finger sandwiches are on the menu)!

Bon apetit!

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Don’t Miss the Mezcal Rather than deal with the craziness of Cancún, why not head to the Riviera Maya to trade beer cans for craft cocktails and homogenous resorts for modern design and sleek style? The Rosewood Mayakoba, where every room is a suite and has its own private deck and heated plunge pool, delivers this complete change of pace. Staff greet guests with a welcome tequila, then follow up with striking prescience, devoting considerable time to considerate gestures like leaving soft cloths for cleaning sunglasses in the rooms and refilling your ice water poolside every half hour. The magic is in the details! This is a resort that spoils you: rooms have Nespresso machines, there are foot showers for washing sand off your feet, and the spa delivers slippers in your size. An aperitif

at the Agave Azul Sushi & Tequila Bar, an open-air space that edges out over the lagoon with views of the mangroves, is a must, and there are weekly tequila tastings (from 100 different labels).

It’s hard not to love everything about this place.

As well as offering the most tranquil experience, their incredible excursions and adrenaline-pumping adventures make it a stand out. With the Caribbean Sea right on your doorstep, take to the crystal-clear waters and scuba dive amongst the vibrant marine life as well as taking a dolphin excursion. From the hotel, you can also explore the Mexican culture as you embark on a 1,500-year-old historical journey to discover the ancient ruins of the ancestral city of Chichén Itzá.

The friendly welcome and private boat transfer to your suite is a definite “wow” experience!

WOW!

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CYNDI SAYES

Norway in a Nutshell After a quick jaunt to Vermont to take in the brilliant fall foliage, Cyndi ventured on to a dramatically different landscape.

In Boston, she boarded a direct flight to Oslo on a new Norwegian 787. The plane is equipped with specially designed air and lighting systems intended to decrease jet lag (it didn’t) and is also greener than other airlines—proving once again that Scandinavians remain far ahead of the curve for all things earth friendly and design-related.

Touchdown in Oslo . . . Norway’s appeal is simple: it’s one of the most beautiful places on earth. The stirring terrain includes impossibly steep fjords of striking beauty, glorious glaciers (some of Europe’s largest), mountains, and rocky coastal islands; in addition, these landscapes serve as backdrop for some of Europe’s prettiest villages.

The counterpoint to all this natural beauty is the country’s vibrant cultural life. Norwegian cities are cosmopolitan— havens for foodies and those interested in art and design.

In Oslo, Cyndi and company stole away to The Thief, which she describes as “possibly the best hotel in the country.” Now gentrified, the area, which overlooks the Oslo Fjord waterfront, used to be frequented by thieves and prostitutes, thus the name. Now it’s surrounded by gleaming buildings, art galleries, chic restaurants and shops, and wide walkways. The elegant contemporary rooms at The Thief have (heated!) hardwood floors, which Cyndi greatly appreciated on those chilly mornings. Norwegian wood indeed! Cyndi adds, “The food and service were fantastic (one meal was cod with chorizo), and we had beautiful views of the fjord.”

Oslo offers many sights, including the 150-meter Olympic ski jump, the Opera House, the Viking ship museum, the Vineland sculpture park, and the Fram Museum where visitors can walk through the famous 19thcentury polar exploration ship. You could easily spend a couple of days kicking around this city. Cyndi also enjoyed the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art, which she describes as “very provocative.”

The next day brought a two-hour train to Lillehammer and a stayover at Pellestova

Hotell. It’s a family-friendly hotel, a solid (if not luxurious) choice for cross-country skiers in the winter and mountain bikers in the summer. “The staff is super friendly . . . we had reindeer for dinner . . .” so . . . yeah.

Lillehammer doesn’t necessarily warrant a visit, but Cyndi did experience one of her most memorable moments here—seeing the Northern Lights! A jet-lagged Cyndi spotted them in the distance at around 1:00 a.m. “It was truly magical! We were told we wouldn’t see them, and, if I hadn’t been up in the middle of the night I would have missed it!”

The following day they drove three hours to Lom where they checked out Lom Stave Church, the oldest in Norway. That evening, they visited Vianvang Restaurant where they met famed Norwegian chef Arne Brimi.

(The region is an up-and-coming foodie destination.) They then dined at Brimi Fjellstugu, a nearby small, family-run hotel with an excellent restaurant and garrulous owner. “In general, we ate a lot of lamb, reindeer, white fish, potatoes . . . so many potatoes . . . with every meal . . . and maybe one salad the whole time. Oh, and bread! The bread is wonderful!” says Cyndi.

(Continues on following page)

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Norway in a Nutshell Continued...

It was another three-hour drive from Lim to Loen where Cyndi et al. rode the Loen Skylift (the world’s steepest) to the top of the mountain where a guide led them on a hike.

They enjoyed lunch at Hoven Restaurant at the tippy-top, perched on a 3000-foot cliff, which had tasty trout and simply spectacular views.

After lunch, they drove onto Fjaerland and visited the Norwegian Glacier Museum (Norsk BreMuseum). They spent the night at Fjaerland Fjordstove Hotel, a small, family-run inn.

The owner, whose life-long dream was to have a hotel on a fjord, made his own beer with glacier water and lavender and had an excellent wine collection.

They left early the following day to catch the ferry to their cruise through UNESCO heritage site Nærøyfjord. Cyndi says, “The whole trip was great, but the real fun starts when you get to the fjords and the coast.” She adds, “There weren’t many passengers on the Flam cruise which was nice, but I imagine that it gets pretty crowded during summer months.” Following the cruise, they drove south from Gudvangen via Stalheimskleiva, a road with hairpin curves and dramatic views.

It was a long drive to the next stop, the Solstrand Hotel & Bad (spa), but well worth it.

A true luxury resort, Solstrand has been run by the same family for four generations. It has a swell spa, Jacuzzi, and two heated pools (indoor

and outdoor) which are open year-round, and different types of saunas. “Solstrand is the perfect place to unwind after an active tour of Norway,” says Cyndi.

Cyndi ended her trip at fabulous Villa Amot, a rural (and very luxe) farmstead in western Norway. Though she struggled to pronounce their names, Cyndi couldn’t say enough about owners Steinar Sørli and partner Yngve Brakstad. Steinar is the fifth generation to own the estate. In addition to opening their historic farm to guests, Steinar and Yngve (an architect) have also created an impressive cultural venue in the former barn which attracts opera stars and others musical luminaries. Stunning scenery forms the backdrop for this unique farm theatre, where Cyndi was treated to a private concert! Cyndi adds that this area has some of the best salmon fishing in the country and that the food was fresh and complex. (Can you say Jerusalem artichoke ice cream? Ja!)

Cyndi would like to offer a big “TAKK” (thank you) to 50 Degrees North and Christine C. Gaffney of The Travel Designer for making this trip such a success. Call us to plan your own Scandinavian adventure!

Elaborately carved wooden churches were once present in many parts of northwest Europe. Today, however, they are almost exclusively found in Norway.

During the Middle Ages, immense stone cathedrals were constructed in many parts of Europe. In Norway, a similar technique was used for building in wood. Thanks to the Vikings’ interest in boat construction and home building, the technique and tradition of wood carving was further developed. The work culminated in the stave churches.

There are several types of stave churches, but one thing they have in common is corner-posts (“staves”) and a framework of timber with wall planks standing on sills. These walls are known as stave walls, hence the name stave church.

The churches’ wooden doors and finials are beautifully carved. The decorations feature an intriguing combination of Christian motifs and what is often assumed to be pre-Christian Viking themes with animals and dragons.

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Get Cozy Atop a Remote Glacier Adventurers can now experience Alaska’s Denali National Park without sacrificing comforts like a fireplace, sauna, or great wines. The legendary late Alaskan bush pilot Don Sheldon dreamed of building a cabin on the park’s border. Fifty years later, his children have realized his vision with Sheldon Chalet.

Imagine awaking in a private chalet to a majestic view of Denali and sprawling Ruth Amphitheater. Come evening, the Aurora Borealis dance and shooting stars flash in the heavens above.

This is Alaska the Sheldon family way—a chance to share the very best of the Great Land with visitors on the only private land on Denali. Don was responsible for building the historic Sheldon Mountain House and now his children carry out his vision, bringing a fortunate few the soul-stirring natural wonder of Alaska in a personal, eco-conscious, and elegantly designed manner.

It’s the kind of once-in-a-lifetime, tell-thegrandkids trip where every detail is memorable.

Marne Sheldon, who together with her husband, Robert, and his sister Kate masterminded the chalet on the family’s 4.9-acre homestead in the park’s southeastern reaches. The Sheldons worked with Alaskan artisans to appoint the big-windowed, weather-safe, and seismically secure steel structure in local woods, collaborating with craftsmen in

DENALI NATIONAL PARK

Talkeetna. The culinary side of things proves equally tied to a sense of place. The owners have described it as “Alaska gourmet”: seafood, game, and foraged items.

The lodge sits 6,000 feet above sea level, atop a granite outcrop and amid a 35-square-mile snowfield amphitheater, offering knockout views of the peak of Denali—North America’s highest mountain— only ten miles to the northwest. But it’s not just the setting and vistas that impress. The five-bedroom, hexagonally shaped, eco-conscious chalet sleeps ten in plush digs and comes with an expert staff of two guides, a chef, and a concierge.

MARK YOUR CALENDARS!

Saturday, February 8–9, 2019 LITTLE ROCK, ARKANSAS THE CAPITAL L HOTEL

ACTIVITIES You can engage in many activities that can only be accomplished through access at the property. Whether it be unparalleled air tours of the stunning geography, glacier surface exploration and travel, invigorating geophysical experiences, or traveling to additional points of local, natural, and historical importance. There’s even a mastodon bone yard!

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BREANA STEELE

Love is in the Air —and on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express So we’re all atwitter about a certain lovely, dark-haired American marrying a certain handsome, charming Englishman.

Meghan and Harry, you say?

Well, yes, but we’re referring to Poe’s own Breana Steele and Tom Dumbrell!

Breana Steele’s maiden voyage abroad included a series firsts—taking an international flight, attending a local football match, touring London’s many venerable sites, seeing the exhibit of Diana’s dresses at Kensington Palace, and, perhaps most important of all, indulging her passion for all things Harry Potter at Harry Potter Studios. And all this before traveling aboard the fabled Venice Simplon-Orient-Express and getting engaged at the Cipriani in Venice! We’d call it a success. Herewith is a report from a fresh, newly engaged perspective.

Breana spent the first couple of days in Coggeshall, where her fiancé lives. They AB OVE: FABIO, A STEWARD, & BREANA BY THE VS OE .

had fish and chips at a cute local pub, The Woolpack, and had a ball at a football match in Ipswich (where Ed Sheeran was cheering on his hometeam!).

They dedicated the next several days to sightseeing in London. They made their base the hip Athenaeum Hotel, which suited them perfectly. (Thank you to our friends at Celebrated who took such good care of them during their stay.) Despite the unseasonably hot day, Breana took a walk through Hyde Park and watched children frolic in the Diana Memorial Fountain (“Just as she would have wanted it, I imagine,” she says). They then caught up with Ellison’s daughter, Jane Madden, at a festive Mexican restaurant, The Café at La Bodega Negra, in Soho. (Margaritas were had.) They explored a bookshop, Hatchards in Piccadily, and toured Spencer House. “I loved Spencer House,” says Breana.

“I don’t think it occurs to many people to tour it, but it’s definitely worth a visit. Diana never actually lived there . . . but the history was really interesting,” (We should mention here that Breana is an avid Diana fan.) She

also strolled through Green Park and along the Diana Memorial Walk, making only the briefest of stops at Buckingham Palace (the Queen was not in residence). They took a whirl on The London Eye which Breana enjoyed and Tom endured. (He managed to be a good sport, though, even whilst clinging to the bench.) They only glimpsed Big Ben, which is under construction for the next three years. “After Big Ben is finished, they are going to start work on Parliament, and it will be closed for TEN YEARS,” reports Breana. At day’s end, they dined on “Lasagne of Dorset Crab in Nantais butter sauce” at their hotel’s restaurant, Galvin. “Delicious!”

The following day, Dream Escape had arranged an excellent tour with a guide and driver. “Our guide, Sophie, was one of the smartest people I have ever met! She knew everything about everything.” They toured The Tower of London and Westminster Abbey. “At Westminster Abbey, we got to enter through the back entrance where only Blue Badge guides can go. After that . . . we had some extra time, so Sophie took me on a

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great walk in the area. We passed by the Prime Minister’s backyard and then by the horse guards who were doing their thing. Having a guide makes all the difference.”

Next, on to Dublin for the day to check out the super luxe Grand Hibernian before the passengers boarded. “It’s such a beautiful train,” enthuses Breana. They ambled through a light drizzle on their way to Hodges and Figgis bookshop before having afternoon tea at the Merrion Hotel. “Their ‘Art Tea’ is SPECTACULAR and a must-do for art lovers.

The hotel has the largest private collection of 19th-and 20th-century art in Ireland, and the sweets are inspired by different works in the collection. Such an ingenious idea! We were seated right in front of the fire making things all the cozier. The Merrion is incredible and feels like a big, stately home. It also has a great bar in the original 18th-century wine vaults of the Main House.”

Back to London, or rather Hogwarts. “This was our Harry Potter Studio Tour day. From the perspective of a mega Harry Potter fan, this tour was incredible. It felt surreal to see

the actual sets, costumes, and props. We also got to sample butterbeers and butterbeer ice cream. It’s a bit outside of London, but for Harry Potter fans, it is a must. So. Very. Cool.”

Breana spent the next day with Tom’s mum, Linda Dumbrell, who surprised her with a visit to Kensington Palace to see the exhibit “Diana: Her Fashion Story.” Breana says, “I loved it! And they’d just added new dresses. It was such a lovely tribute to Diana, and anyone with an interest in the Royals should see it. I was surprised that I ended up loving the rest of Kensington just as much.

The King and Queen’s State apartments and the Victoria Revealed exhibit were equally amazing. . . . We did a walk around the Sunken Gardens next, which were just stunning. It was cold that day, but we strolled through Kensington Gardens over to the Royal Albert Music Hall.”

A quick jaunt to Italy . . . The journey to the Cipriani in Venice was fraught with difficulties, but thankfully a delicious lobster linguine awaited them at the end. Also on the menu? A marriage proposal from Tom!

Followed by an emphatic “yes” from Breana!

Prosecco and celebrating were in order. A light rain fell preventing an evening stroll through the gorgeous Cipriani gardens, but nothing could dampen their spirits.

The next day the betrothed boarded the famed Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. “We stayed in a cabin suite, two interconnecting cabins (highly recommended). The food was INCREDIBLE. I cannot believe they can create food like that out of the tiny train kitchen. That night, we got all dressed up for dinner, which was soooooo good—rack of lamb to DIE for and delicious cocktails. . . .

And the lobster brunch the next day was out of this world.”

On to Calais and the last leg of their journey that entailed listening to a brass ban whilst drinking sparkling wine. “We got on the British Pullman and enjoyed a delicious afternoon tea with the best quiche I have ever had. The trip was pretty, and we made it back to Victoria Station in good time.” The end of a trip, but the beginning of their lives together!

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TERESA GRACE

From Tuk-Tuks to Temples Southeast Asia Southeast Asia is a beguiling place— sweltering afternoons in the sun, the heady scent of exotic spices drifting through the narrow alleys of historic cities, the deep sense of culture and heritage. During their adventure through Vietnam and Cambodia, Teresa and her traveling companion, Kathy Mitchell, experienced all this and more.

They began their journey in charming Hanoi, the “Paris of the East,” with its yellow ochre colonial buildings, tree-lined boulevards, and scenic lakes. There they visited the picturesque Temple of Literature and the Museum of Ethnology and took a walking tour through the famed Old Quarter. A highlight was watching a water puppet performance, a uniquely northern Vietnamese art form. They also visited the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, toured the One Pillar Pagoda, a Buddhist temple built in 1049, and Hoa Lo prison (“Hanoi Hilton”).

Of Hanoi, Teresa says, “The food is amazing, and the coffee is great. We sampled all kinds of different dishes. And the people couldn’t be nicer. They’re very friendly and welcoming.”

Teresa and Kathy particularly enjoyed their tour of Halong Bay, where they

meandered amidst the incredible spire-like rock formations aboard a luxury junket. They visited the mysterious Tien Ong Cave, said to resemble the shape of frog’s mouth, and then continued to the Cua Van area, to get a closer look at the lives of local fishermen. They even took a morning dip in the bay and climbed up for a spectacular hill-top view.

Next, they touched down in Siem Reap, the home to Angkor Wat and the ancient royal city of Angkor Thom. There they spent their days traversing the intricately carved hallways of astounding Angkor Wat and its surrounding temple-complexes. Their superb guide led them through the age-old structures, from Buddhist shrines to the Terrace of The Leper King. In the evening, they retreated to the tranquil garden setting of Belmond La Residence d’Angkor Hotel.

One of Teresa’s favorite parts of being in Cambodia was getting to interact with the people. “I particularly really loved meeting the children in Cambodia; they’re so beautiful.”

Teresa and Kathy also cruised the Mekong on AMAwaterways, visiting rural villages, historic pagodas, floating markets, and a Buddhist monastery along the way. “On the

cruise you got a real sense of river life and how the people use the river,” says Teresa.

From Saigon, they drove northwest to the famous Cu Chi Tunnels with their guide from Trails of Indochina, who took them through this immense network of connecting underground tunnels—created in 1948 to protect the Viet Cong guerrillas.

On to Saigon, a vibrant city of over eight million inhabitants and four million motorbikes. Despite its modernity, Saigon maintains a strong link to the past. Their city tour took in some of the city’s most historic landmarks including the Notre Dame Cathedral, the Central Post Office, and War Remnants Museum. “We also visited Spider City and sampled a cricket,” recalls Teresa.

“There were also tarantulas, but we didn’t try one of those.” Eeek! and Ick! Teresa gives huge props to our friends at Trails of Indochina for their excellent guidance throughout their journey. It wouldn’t have been the same without them.

She says, “You really have to have a guide to get the best out of your experience in this part of the world, and the guides at Trails are wonderful.”

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Meet our new bae in Byron Bay We were delighted that the charming, low-key couple John and Lyn Parche of Byron Bay recently paid Poe Travel a visit on their U.S. tour. They left us feeling totally stoked about a trip to their posh yet peaceful property.

Set within a stunning 45-acre rainforest, the Byron at Byron strikes the perfect balance between relaxed luxury and super service in one of Australia’s most iconic beachside locations. Featuring 91 suites, a multi-award winning day spa, and a restaurant overlooking the rainforest, the Byron at Byron Resort and Spa is a perfect weekend escape or base for a longer stay to explore this amazing part of Australia.

Relax your body and mind with free daily yoga classes or immerse yourself in the outdoors, with endless trails through the rainforest. Take a guided walk with the resort’s ranger and learn about the rainforest’s history and unique eco-system. Unwind poolside with signature cocktails and pool service by the 25-meter infinity pool (the thyme-topped whisky and peach concoction is particularly toothsome).

Then dine at the restaurant, with seasonal menus based on a farm-to-plate philosophy accompanied by an extensive selection of local and international wines.

What to take: Binoculars and beach towels, light linen ensembles. It can get cool in the evenings, so bring warmer layers to slip on.

What to feel good about: The hotel is as green as its surroundings; the architecture relies on the flow of fresh air, rather than air conditioning; recycled grey water is used for washing; staff are trained on rainforest conservation; light bulbs are ecologically sound, and the hotel recycles as much as possible.

Hotel restaurant: The hotel’s smart but relaxed restaurant is a shining example of Australian design; the inside-outside dining area has a soaring roof, exposed beams, fold-back doors and skylights.

Natural timber and a calm color scheme add up to a restful setting for upscale dishes with Asian accents.

Breakfast is a buffet spread for the books.

Out and about: Though the attentive staff are on hand to zip you around the resort in golf carts, you’ll also want to stroll the raised timber walkways that curve around the trees and cut into the rainforest’s canopy. You’ll see lizards climbing trees, bushturkeys foraging in the rainforest’s leafy litter, and all manner of brightly colored tropical creatures going about their business. Pause to take in the earthy smells of the forest and the salty scents of the ocean. Tottle on to Tallow Beach, a swathe of sand that is accessed by a security gate just for guests, and shrouded by wetlands and thick scrub, making it a private and serene spot. Keen surfers and divers will get their kicks here; you can also fish along the beach.

Visit the secluded lake and admire the massive tidal lagoon from one of the viewing platforms. If you’d rather do very little at all, beach yourself on one of the pool loungers and while away the hours by the pool or on your balcony, or book one of the brilliant treatments (we liked the hot-stone massage) at the spa.

Take it to town: You’ll probably want to head into Byron to potter around the beach resort’s glut of galleries, shops, and cafes. The hotel’s free shuttle leaves three times daily (or you can pay for a private transfer at a time that suits you). John says the vibe is very chill and bohemian (we’re sensing a trend here).

Set within a stunning 45-acre rainforest, the Byron at Byron strikes the perfect balance between relaxed luxury and super service in one of Australia’s most iconic beachside locations. Featuring 91 suites, a multiaward winning day spa, and a restaurant overlooking the rainforest, the Byron at Byron Resort and Spa is a perfect weekend escape or base for a longer stay to explore this amazing part of Australia.

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Best in Snow

ELLISON HEADS TO THE ARTIC CIRCLE TO A UNIQUE ECO-CONSCIOUS LUXURY LODGE WHERE THERE’S LOTS OF SNOW, AND YES, WOLVES.

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Women Who Run (Or Sit) With The Wolves After landing in Innsbruck, Ellison and friends kicked off their journey in true Tyrolean fashion, dining at a new-yet-old-school restaurant complete with waitresses in dirndls. Did Ellison don a Bavarian hat for the occasion? Most likely. Afterwards it was only a quick 45-minute drive to idyllic Schloss Elmau, one of Ellison’s favorite retreats. On this visit, she experienced some fun, different activities, like traveling over the river and through the woods by horse and sleigh to picturesque Mittenwald. The only downside (or, rather downslide) of the long weekend was a minor sledding accident, but she managed to rally, buoying her spirits and dulling the pain with friends and glühwein.

Then it was onwards and upwards to Norway, a first-time visit for Ellison who already says she can’t wait to return. They traveled far north, to Wolf Lodge, a unique eco-conscious luxury lodge near the town of Narvik. It sits in Polar Park, deep inside

the Arctic Circle, and is home to a large selection of Arctic animals including wolverine, Arctic fox, bears, lynx, reindeer and, yes, the star of the show (and snow)—the wolf. Wolf Lodge is situated right within the wolf enclosure and was designed to have unobstructed views of these remarkable animals

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The alpha female and alpha male were the first to arrive, along with another member of the pack, and after some exploratory sniffing, they showered Ellison and Emily with the famous “wolf kisses.”

“Transcendent,” says Ellison of the experience.

Let us plan a trip to Norway for you— Norway your way!

in their natural habitat. The group entered the lodge via a tunnel so as not to disturb the animals.

There, in surroundings both Scandinavian spartan and snug, they relaxed in comfort while observing reindeer amble past the floor-to-ceiling windows.

The best, however, was yet to come. The next day, they got up to experience an up-close-andpersonal encounter with the wolves themselves! The keepers instructed them to kneel upon entering the enclosure and avoid making direct eye contact (as both could be construed as a dominance challenge).

Unable to take a knee (due to said leg injury), Ellison sat with friend Emily Parke and let the wolves approach. The alpha female and alpha male were the first to arrive, along with another member of the pack, and after some exploratory sniffing, they showered Ellison and Emily with the famous “wolf kisses.” “Transcendent,” says Ellison of the experience. “There’s really nothing else like it in the world.” More wonders awaited that night when, ticking off another item on the bucket list, Ellison et al. received a full show of the elusive aurora borealis. “Totally spectacular,” says Ellison. “It’s a tired phrase, but it really is a once-in-a-lifetime kind of thing.” The lodge is perfectly positioned for viewing the Northern Lights from late August until mid-April so your chances of seeing them are relatively high. Bracing themselves against the Arctic chill, they marveled at the night sky, around a bonfire and with a sense of bonhomie. And as if Mother Nature’s spectacular showing wasn’t enough, there was a surprise towards the evening’s end, and what a surprise it was! Not only were they treated to the dancing lights, but they also spotted a possible UFO—and this wasn’t just the glühwein talking. The next day reports in the media confirmed sightings of an unidentified flying object streaking across the northern sky and then appearing to break apart.

Wolves, the Aurora Borealis, a UFO—needless to say, it was one for the books.

Leaving the frigid north, they headed south to lovely, secluded Villa Amot, a country estate in the heart of the fjord region. There they had a birthday celebration for one of their party’s members that included a private concert in the barn/concert hall with professional musicians; at some point, wee, smiling Norwegian horses—tiny of hoof large of tooth—were trotted out to frolic about the concert hall. Ellison et al. loved the small, friendly staff and proprietors who orchestrated this whole event and attended to their every need. Case in point—when Ellison’s sledding injury put a cramp in her style and a limp in her step, the Chef—who also happened to be a farmer and doctor—came to the rescue and set her aright. “He had hands the size of Thor,” Ellison wistfully recalls.

One outing involved a gondola ride to Gap Prevent, a swell hospital/clinic/boutique hotel where one can check in for a full body/mind/and spirit checkup. Here various medical specialists offer a preventative, holistic approach to health.

On another adventure, they took an exhilarating helicopter ride above the fjords and landed on a little island with only 100 inhabitants. There, in a serendipitous turn, they crossed paths with a Norwegian journalist who interviewed them for a radio show about tourism.

The last leg of the trip took the group to Oslo where they stayed at The Thief, a hip, urban hotel with a wild art collection and B-list celebrity clientele—a fitting end since Norway stole their hearts. (Can we get an “Awww . . . ?)

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IN OTHER ELLISON NEWS...

Ellison is the very definition of a Poe on the go. Here she is pictured state-side, sea-side, and places in between with our friends in travel.

Where will she turn up next? The answer is France. clockwise from top Ellison in London, Ellison with T+L’s Nathan Lump after again being named to the A-List (!), Ellison with Mollie Fitzgerald at a JG Blackbook meeting in Turks & Caicos, and Ellison with our Goring pals at Travel Week.

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Experiences LET’S GO UNESCO

The shared heritage of the world is a beautiful thing. Across the USA, 23 locales have now become UNESCO World Heritage sites, each breathtaking in their own right. In all likelihood, you’ve been to a UNESCO World Heritage site in the United States without even knowing it.

Remember that family road trip to the Grand Canyon? What about that visit to the Statue of Liberty? Dollywood, anyone? (Okay, that last one is NOT a UNESCO site per se but is adjacent to Smoky Mountains National Park which is).

Wouldn’t it be fun to visit all 23?

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A great place to start is, of course, the national parks. Our friends at Revealed America have put together three excellent family-friendly itineraries to inspire you. These custom vacations take into account each family member’s interests, activity levels, and personality to create an unforgettable experience for everyone. Because what’s the greatest gift you can give your loved ones? How about a glimpse at our planet’s natural beauty, joyous memories, and unhurried time together?

WESTERN ADVENTURING

OTHER TRIPS TO HAVE ON YOUR RADAR ACCORDING TO REVEALED AMERICA:

Northern Rockies • Full day private family rock climbing adventure in Grand Teton National Park • Private morning wildlife tour • Scenic Snake River Float with riverside tipi dinner • Private family biking adventure

1. The Pacific Northwest

THE BEST OF CALIFORNIA

Don’t overlook the rainforests of Olympic National Park, the all-levels (but never dull) hiking of Crater Lake National Park, kayaking with Orcas off the San Juan Islands, or the trademark laid-back cool of Portland and Seattle.

Yosemite, Redwoods & SoCal Coast

2. Backcountry Utah

• Whitewater raft down the Merced River in Yosemite National Park • Private guided tour of the ancient old-growth redwood forest • VIP experience at Disneyland & Universal Studios • Swim with leopard sharks in La Jolla Cove

SANTA FE & THE SOUTHWEST New Mexico • Explore Native American cliff dwellings • Tamaya pueblo meeting with Tamaya elder • Visit the Ted Turner Expeditions Ranch for incredible wildlife viewing • Horseback riding or 4-wheeling expedition

Utah’s lunar landscape has never been buzzier. Go now to see the greats—Zion, Arches and Bryce—as well as underthe-radar stunners, Canyonlands, and Capitol Reef.

3. Big Bend & Marfa, Texas Make Marfa, Texas, your home base for exploring nearby galleries, desert art installations, local music performances and quirky eateries. Then, take a day trip to Big Bend where nature has carved its own spectacular sculptures.

4. Big Sur & Beyond This stretch of wild coastline which includes Big Sur, Monterey, and Carmel is one of California’s most scenic and naturally robust. You can see whales off shore, hike along dramatic granite cliffs to secluded beaches and hidden caves, go wine tasting in Carmel Valley, and catch a glimpse of a condor.

5. Alaska!

INSIDER TIP #1: Go in the fall. #2: Hire a private guide (it’s worth it). #3: Plan now for next summer. #4: Get outside! And out of your comfort zone.

If you’re searching for a trip that’s unlike any other, head to Alaska. You can go on wildlife adventures by float plane, explore bear territory to see grizzlies snag salmon in their jaws, and hike endless trail networks.

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Girls Just Wanna Have Fun (away from their families) . . .

This is one of our top picks for a great girls’ group getaway. Nestled along the shores of scenic Lake Austin in the beautiful Texas Hill Country, Lake Austin Spa Resort offers guests the sanctuary of a world-class spa and the warmth of a best friend’s lake house (sans mallard paintings). This destination spa resort, the site of a former rodeo training camp, is a little piece of heaven. The peaceful grounds include hammocks overlooking the lake and garden beds.

Limestone buildings have tin roofs, and cedar posts line walkways. Rooms, epitomizing Hill Country chic, are filled with antiques and art. Everything—from

the spa, classes, instructors, and facilities, down to the products—is first-rate. The chef prepares fabulous, fresh, healthy cuisine using grains, grassfed meats, fish from sustainable sources, and fruits and vegetables from the resort’s organic gardens.

This is the place for changing your mind, body, and attitude. They offer all-inclusive vacation packages, which include accommodations in one of 40 thoughtfully appointed guest rooms, three gourmet meals daily, indoor and outdoor fitness activities and classes, and a selection of spa and body treatments.

HOTEL TIPS: Try stand-up paddleboarding on beautiful Lake Austin or take gardening classes when not relaxing and reposing!

Togetherness One of the hottest trends in travel these days?

Taking a trip with three or more generations of your family. It’s been big for the past several years, and its popularity continues to grow.

People want to experience all they possibly can with the people they love and what better way to do it than traveling with your children and grandchildren?

And sisters and brothers, aunts and uncles? Even third cousins once removed! As you might expect, go-to destinations include: Italy, Mexico, Hawaii, and Orlando.

Some of today’s multigenerational travelers, however, are looking for further-flung spots—more adventurous destinations such as Antarctica, Croatia, and Iceland.

We work with companies like Tauck (their excellent Bridges program), Lindblad, and Dream Escape to tailor your trip to the exact interests of your family members. We can create packed itineraries, but should one just need to “lie down a minute” and get away from said family, we build in plenty of time for that, too. What to look for in a multi-gen trip? A mix of activities but not so many that people feel overwhelmed. You want a place that’s going to be scenically beautiful but then also offer enough to-dos

for different age groups and levels. We’re the experts in creating multi-generational trips and realize the importance of balancing the varying interests of a family group. We get it!

Scotland and Ireland with Dream Escape: • “A Scottish Adventure” designed with all family members in mind—from private visits to stunning castles and a luxury cruise on Loch Lomond to a family working farm, this is a unique look at Scotland, its landscapes and traditions.

• “Scotland for Families”—stay in grand castles and retrace the footsteps of Harry Potter from Glencoe to the Jacobite Steam Train. Indulge in chocolate tastings, Highland adventures, animal encounters, and an exhilarating RIB ride on Loch Tay. • “Ireland for Families”—Ireland is the perfect destination for families with endless activities and opportunities for adventure. Experience a first catch with an estate ghillie, discover Killarney National Park, exploring with an expert falconer and kayaking into the twlight with a guide.

Specialist culinary experiences and exquisite luxury castle stays ensure an unforgettable trip to the Emerald Isle.

Multi-generation Travel Destination ideas: • A bespoke safari with Africa House • The Galapagos or Alaska with Lindblad • Costa Rica with Tauck • A cruise along the Dalmatian coast • Vancouver • Dude ranch for old dudes and young ones alike (Hey, Ranch at Rock Creek!)

• Lake Kora (New York) • The Chilko Experience Wilderness Resort (BC, Canada)

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Tulum to a Tee Ahhhh, Tulum. A mere 90-minute drive from Cancun but a world apart. Millennials are hip to it, new age types and a handful of celebs, too, but are you?

There’s so much to recommend this beautiful spot it’s hard to know where to begin. This breathtaking stretch of sand along Mexico’s eastern coast—with its jade-green water and balmy breezes—has a reputation as the ultimate place for an unplugged beach vacation for a good reason. In contrast to the mega-resorts nearby, the vibe in Tulum is decidedly laid-back. Imagine spending your days eating fresh fish tacos, doing yoga overlooking the water, thinking about how you’re the envy of all your friends, and reading in a seaside palapa. The gorgeous beach is, of course, the main draw, but unlike other beach getaways in Mexico, Tulum has several things to see, from historic ruins and the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve to fun restaurants and shops. There’s also excellent cave and cavern diving and fun cenotes. You read it right—cenotes! It’s a great place for a girls’ trip or a family vacay or really any configuration therein. Where else can you get all that plus dramatic Mayan ruins and ecological wonders?

And maxi dresses?

TO STAY Expect three options when deciding where to stay: Tulum town, Beach Road North and Beach Road South. We recommend avoiding town, which is a 15-20 minute drive from the water. Beach Road North has better, although more crowded, beaches and is closer to the ruins, but its large resorts can feel a tad resort-y. Beach Road South is the zen zone, with enough vegan restaurants and yoga studios to stores to satisfy your inner bohemian. Or, splurge and stay at beautiful Rosewood Mayakoba, an hour’s drive north (see sidebar), and make a day trip into Tulum.

TO DO Yoga at Sanara: The oceanfront yoga studio at this eco-friendly resort has sliding glass doors so you can commune with nature during your practice. It’s not as mainstream as, say, Maya Tulum or Yoga Dicha, but the uncrowded classes are on par.

Take a dip at Playa Paraiso. Travel south along the road to Boca Paila and you’ll find Playa Paraiso, or “Paradise Beach.” Sit back on the white sand and relax in crystal clear water. There are changing rooms and

lockers plus a restaurant and several food vendors if you want snacks or a drink during the day. As an added bonus, parking and beach access are both free.

Explore the massive Reserva de la Biosfera Sian Ka’an, the secluded fishing village of Punta Allen, and the ruins of Cobá.

Explore the Cenotes Sac Actun caves. Escape the tourists and go snorkeling in Cenotes Sac Actun (White Cave System), an underwater cave that you can swim into with a guide. Thanks to the shallow, clear water, you’ll truly be able to appreciate the views of the stalactites and stalagmites. There are also two fresh-water snorkeling sites in the cave complex, but watch out for bats!

Learn about Tulum’s Mayan ruins. Tulum, situated on 39-foot-high cliffs overlooking the sea, began as a Mayan city and fortress—in fact, “Tulum” is a Mayan word that meant “wall” or “fence.” If you want to soak up history as well as the sun, explore the well-preserved ancient Mayan ruins alongside the coast. Go early—before the tour buses arrive— to avoid crowds.

TO EAT Nosh on tacos at Antojitos La Chiapaneca (the best al pastor pork tacos in all of Tulum). They’re handmade right in front of you and start at just seven pesos— that’s about 52 cents. And if you’re a picky eater, there’s a “salsa bar” where you can choose your own amounts of cilantro, salsa, and hot sauce.

El Camello is a favorite of both tourists and locals thanks to its variety of fresh, tasty seafood dishes.

The highlight is the mixed ceviche, which includes shrimp, fish, and octopus, but you can also get your fish fried or in tacos. El Camello accepts both dollars and pesos if you haven’t had a chance to change your money yet.

Drinks at Gitano: If you’re up for trendy then this jungle-enclosed cocktail bar is worth a visit. Note that this is a mezcaleria, so you won’t find a “Sea Breeze” on the drink menu. What you will find are unique, expertly crafted cocktails. One “Gypsy Disco,” please! Word on the street is that this place really gets hopping on Friday nights.

Burritos at Burrito Amor: It’s a bit touristy, but breakfast and lunch are great. For a more local spot, try El Camello Jr and Antojitos La Chiapaneca.

Dinner at Mezzanine: When looking for a fancy night out, most people will point you to Hartwood, the ultra-stylish restaurant started by a Brooklyn couple many years ago. And while the food is good— order the woodfired ribs—we also recommend the Thai-Mexican fusion at Mezzanine, where the pad thai is best enjoyed whilst viewing crashing waves.

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P HO T O COU RT E SY: K I L AC HA ND+ K A RP

T H E O F F I C I A L M AG A Z I N E O F P O E T R AV E L

A Matter of Taste The Finest Culinary Tour of India Bar Naan

Calling all curious gastro-voyageurs to India! There’s no better way to stimulate your senses, awaken your wanderlust, and open your mind than to explore cultures through food. Indian cuisine is as diverse as India itself. On this delicious journey, you’ll sample the foods of Hyderabad and Mumbai, learning from residents and experts how dishes evolved and the cultural significance surrounding them. Along the way, visit local bazaars, food and spice markets and popular attractions. With intimate dinners, luxurious accommodations and expert guidance, taste the best India has to offer.

A TASTE OF INDIA TODAY: MUMBAI AND HYDERABAD Culinary and Cultural Immersion October 19 - 27, 2018 Kilachand + Karp invites you on a culinary journey to India’s past and present. Experience the rich legacy of Indian cuisine and the innovative ways it is being interpreted by the most talented practitioners today. This uniquely curated eight-day adventure will offer the highest level of hospitality and luxury along with intimate access to the experts who are at the heart of India’s creative culinary renaissance and dynamic food and beverage industry.

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POE STAFF PICS

ANGELA SIMON

Santa Fe with Friends

The Straessle family on an epic road trip out West.

MORE ICE CREAM, PLEASE!

Accurately dubbed “The City Different,” Santa Fe is a place that makes its own rules while embracing its rich history. Walking through its adobe neighborhoods, or around the busy Plaza that remains its core, there’s no denying this city’s timeless, earthy soul. Angela Simon recently enjoyed a couples’ trip to this sacred, storied spot. Here we offer a “Mad Lib” style report: To make sure a couples’ trip is successful, be sure . . .

You have wine and chocolate.

One of the best meals we had was . . .

Cafe Pasqual’s “Stellar Quinoa Burger,” with sautéed portobello mushrooms, quinoa, sweet potato, zucchini, tomato chutney, fried shallots, guacamole, gluten-free bun served with applefennel salad.

If you go to Sante Fe make sure you . . .

Go hiking at Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, located 40 miles southwest of Santa Fe. The whole vibe there is . . .

Relaxed.

Santa Fe is a great destination for a long weekend because . . .

The landscape is surreal. It feels like you’ve really gotten away, but it’s not hard to get there.

Santa Fe facts: Santa Fe is the oldest state capital as well as the third oldest permanent European settlement in the US. Established in 1608 by the Spanish who were coming up from the south, Santa Fe was preceded only in 1565 by the small settlement of Saint Augustine in Florida, and the recent arrivals from England who settled in 1607 in Jamestown, in what would become New England.

At over 7000 feet above sea level, Santa Fe is the nation’s highest state capital—and also the state that draws the greatest number of visitors who decide to embrace turquoise as part of their “new look.”

Breana Steele enjoying a maple creemee at Morse Farms in Vermont.

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Sketchbook 1

ONE’S DESTINATION IS NEVER A PLACE, BUT ALWAYS A NEW WAY OF SEEING THINGS.” — HENRY MILLER

Our clients are an intrepid bunch. Just look at them! Whether communing with the last (and late) white rhino, hiking in Bhutan, or going gorilla trekking (supine style), they’re up for adventure at every turn. Here is but a sampling of who’s been where.

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1 The Maurras Family at Glacier National Park this summer.

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2 Belinda Ferguson & Faye Abernathy in Panama.

3 The Billups in Churchill’s war rooms.

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4 “Horseback riding in the Atacama Desert and hiking at 13,800 feet in the Atacama.

Two of many great adventures there!”—Ann Teaff & Don McPherson in Chile.

5 The Alegria family exploring Vancouver.

Charles & Tarana Lizotte in Aruba for Christmas.

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7 Our beloved Ale and her son, Ishamel, from IDI in Italy!

8 The Shinns in Ischia! (say that three times fast) 9 Terry Jefferson & Joe Lampo in Spain.

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FROM OUR TRAVELERS

“ Even the physically challenged among us got to see the gorillas.

It was an absolutely fascinating experience. We loved the lodge and the people who work there. The stretchers were well worth every penny. . . . Going up and down the treacherous mountainsides were a treat. . . . Our guide was truly outstanding. The lodge and the views are spectacular. Staff excellent. . . .

All in all, another A+ for Poe.” CAROLYN WITHERSPOON in Rwanda

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“Thank you so much for planning the trip of a lifetime for us down the Rhine River on the AmaPrima.

The boat, staff, food, and excursions were all fabulous . . .

Thank you also for the on-board credits.

What a nice surprise! . . . We’ve already recommended Poe Travel and AmaWaterways to others. It is definitely a trip that we will never forget. I look forward to talking to you in the future about planning our next trip.”

CARAH LYNN BILLUPS AND JAY, GRACE AND ADDIE

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Newlyweds Kyle Gray and Kelcey Towell make friends with a deer in Nara Park, Japan.

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Cloud & Nancy Keyes

in Victoria at Butchart Gardens prior to their Rocky Mountaineer Rail Adventure.

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12 Don & Cathy Hicks in Cuba taking a tour in one of the famed Classic Cars.

13 The Billups family on AMA Waterways-Rhine River Cruise.

14 The Witherspoons on a gorilla trek in Rwanda.

15 The Seessel family in France, Switzerland, and Morocco. Here climbing Mt. Blanc.

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The Smiths at Universal.

David & Mona Tehle with their son in Milan.

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FROM OUR TRAVELERS

“ Just want to let you know that we are having a wonderful time. Dubai was awesome, Maldives is a paradise. Thank you for putting this trip together for us. Sending love from Maldives, GRACE

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The Hoffmans in Croatia.

19 Kathy Barlogie, Robin Parker, Susan Blair, & Katy Watson in Morocco.

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The Ballards in Belize.

21 Don Pfeifer & Maggie Hogan, Sophia Gilliatt & Tori Winn, Stacy Meyer, and Susan Wilson on a National Geographic Expedition in Bhutan.

22 Andy & Gina Johnson and Roy & Garie Johnson in California.

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The Stewarts in Scotland.

Richard & Betsy Davies in Wales.

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Judy Van Ginkel in Kenya with Sudan, the world’s last surviving male northern white rhino who died shortly thereafter.

26 The Wilbourns in Halifax.

“A truly fabulous place. The people who live here make the trip worthwhile. Best seafood ever!”

27 Nancy Garvey et al. in Austria and Prague.

28 Ark & Nancy Monroe in London.

29 Mona Tehle having a Singapore sling in the bar where it originated!

30 David & Mona Tehle in Zurich.

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91 5 CU MB ER L AND S TRE E T P.O. B OX 2 576 LIT TL E RO CK, AR —— 72 20 2 5 01 376 4 1 71 | 800 72 7 19 60

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