Explore your national park! ONP captured, then and now Ranger revels in educating visitors ONP â€” By the numbers Forest vs. Park: Whatâ€™s the difference
Supplement to Sequim Gazette and Port Townsend and Jefferson County Leader
Port Angeles • Sequim Port Townsend • Discovery Bay Kingston • Edmonds • Greyhound Amtrak • Downtown Seattle Sea Tac Airport • Seattle Hospitals Olympic Bus Lines is an independent agent of Greyhound. You can now purchase your Greyhound tickets locally at your only nationwide reservation location on the Olympic Peninsula. board • Providing complimentary home-made chocolate chip cookies from “Cockadoodle Doughnuts” in Port Angeles.
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Summer 2016 LOP 3
Departments 38 | Outdoor Recreation Olympic National Park: A hikers paradise 21 | Food & Spirits Simple breakfast highlights market fare 25 | Arts & Entertainment Toe-tappin’ fiddle music
32 | Calendar Things to see and do 41 | Now & Then Stone Family Farm 42 | The Living End Walking with John Muir
Vol. 12, Number 3 • Living on the Peninsula is a quarterly publication.
Explore your national park!
147 W. Washington St., Sequim, WA 98382 © 2016 Sequim Gazette Terry R. Ward, Publisher
7 | Following in her grandfather’s footsteps Capturing ONP then and now 10 | ONP by the numbers Facts and figures 18 | Olympic National Park vs. Olympic National Forest What’s the difference? 22 | Park ranger revels in educating ONP visitors Presents positive image of National Park Service 34 | New and improved Hoh visitor center Focal point for information on the rain forest 4 LOP Summer 2016
Steve Perry, General Manager Editorial: Patricia Morrison Coate, Editor firstname.lastname@example.org
On the cover: Marymere Falls Trail, in Olympic National Park near Lake Crescent, begins at the Storm King Ranger Station, winding through old-growth forest. The first half-mile is a hardpacked surface and leads steeply to an overlook of Barnes Creek. From its source at Aurora Ridge to the creek, Marymere Falls tumbles 90 feet. Photo by Patricia Morrison Coate
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Trees were, and still are, massive within the area that in 1938 became Olympic National Park. Photo courtesy of George Welch Collection
Following in grandfather’s footsteps George Welch’s photos, most of them from 1903-1925, document Olympic Mountains before the park was established Story by Robin Dudley Views of and visits to the Olympic Mountains are big reasons to love living on the Peninsula. It’s a short drive to day hikes featuring enormous trees, waterfalls, otherworldly mushrooms and mosses, and magnificent vistas. When photographer Ann Welch of Port Townsend goes hiking in the Olympics, she takes the long view. Since she was a child, she has been carrying around photographs taken by her grandfather George Welch, who took thousands of photos in those mountains and in Port Townsend in the early 20th century. Ann took it upon herself to re-create many of those photos — first, to scan the negatives and create shareable, digital images, and then to go to the places where George went and photograph the same scenes, from the same places. “I decided to go out and find these places,” Ann said. George had written the locations on some of the photos and kept a record of some of his trips in trip booklets.
George Welch was born in Missouri in 1879 and came with his family to the Olympic Peninsula in 1889, settling in Beaver, near Sappho, in Clallam County. “They moved out here because it was the Wild West,” Ann said. “I suspect it was about adventure.”
George grew up with the Olympics as his backyard and he made many forays into the wilderness before he moved to Port Townsend about 1910. In 1911, he married Lillian Eisenbeis, who had grown up in the grand Port Townsend home known today as Manresa Castle. One of George’s photos shows Lillian and her sister Hilda standing in front of an enormous, mossy tree trunk. “We go out there now and are amazed by how big (the trees) are,” Ann said. “They’re twigs. We missed it.” In Port Townsend, George worked as a banker, an insurance man with an office under the stairs in the Mount Baker Block Building, which was built by his wife’s father, Charles Eisenbeis, Port Townsend’s first mayor. He also operated a small photo studio. Most of his images of the Olympic Mountains, on 5-by-7-inch negatives, were shot between 1903 and 1925. George worked with Asahel Curtis, brother of the famous photographer Edward Curtis. George brought his heavy, bulky camera along on trips into the Olympics, where he was a trailblazer. Teams of men used donkeys to pack in equipment and dynamite. They were opening the mountains to mining, Ann explained, showing a photo labeled “Tull City Copper Mines,” which has the image of some wooden buildings near copper mines in what is now Copper Canyon. “Those names were used to try to get mining to move to the park,” Ann said. “Back then, it was not just a day trip to Silver Lake,” she added. Another photo shows a huge cedar stump with a shake roof and a man standing nearby. “That was a post office,” she said. In another shot, a group of men poses beside a dead elk hanging in front of a building that bears a sign reading “Camp Darwin.” “That’s the reading club,” Ann said, observing that Charles Darwin’s “Origin of Species” was then popular.
Summer 2016 LOP 7
They moved out here because it was the Wild West. I suspect it was about adventure. — Ann Welch on her great-grandparents
George was instrumental in getting Olympic National Park established, Ann said; that happened in June 1938. In the 1950s, she said, Welch Peaks, near Mount Townsend, were named for him. “Everybody wanted to make it a park,” she said. “It had to do with tourism. They wanted a road through the middle, so people could go see it … to get people to go appreciate this extraordinary wilderness.” Back then, the wilderness seemed endlessly resilient, she said. “We didn’t think about people trashing it and bringing ATVs in there.” George also helped bring mountain goats to the Olympics — they are an introduced species. “Now, the controversy is, should we get rid of the goats.” They “eat everything and have no predators,” she noted. George introduced many people to the Olympics as a Boy Scout leader and in 1927, he was the key person to spur creation of what became the city-owned Port Townsend Golf Club. (In 1932, he recorded the first hole in one in course history.) “He instilled a sense of community,” she said. “You gave back to the community.”
“Tull City Copper Mines” shows some wooden buildings in what is now Copper Canyon. Photo courtesy of George Welch Collection
“A 300-foot box canyon” is what George Welch titled this photograph. Photo courtesy of George Welch Collection The people in George’s photos are not smiling. People didn’t mug for the camera back then. “It was a serious moment,” Ann said. “You carried this stuff out there. It wasn’t like digital. There was a preciousness to every moment,” captured on film. “You’d load a sheet of film in there one at a time.” The equipment was heavy and expensive, and each picture was carefully set up. “Photography was his love,” Ann said of her grandfather, “his focus and his love.” Ann clearly inherited that love, along with his boxes of negatives, “from at least three cameras, a 5-by-7 and a 5-by-3.” She recalls that he “had a little darkroom in a cubby off the bathroom. It was like a miracle back there.” The negatives were in an old plywood box, in envelopes made of paper so crude you could see the pulp, she said. “But 100 years later, they’re still in pretty good shape.”
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Ann’s grandmother Lillian was involved in the formation of the Jefferson County Historical Society, the Carnegie Library in Port Townsend and Chetzemoka Park. “It was just what you did,” said Ann, who is on the historical society’s board. Of George, she said, “I think he was probably a pretty tough guy.” He told of accidentally cutting off his toe with an axe and sewing it back on with green thread. And he broke his back falling into a crevasse on Mount Olympus. “It took several days to get him out” and to a doctor in Port Angeles, she said. He labeled the photo of himself being hauled out on horseback as “The Derelict.” Ann guesses he had a pretty good sense of humor. He died in 1959 at the age of 80, while on the Port Townsend Golf Course. An avid golfer, “he made a nice par 3 on the seventh hole and died there.”
Ann was in junior high school when her grandfather died. She graduated from Port Townsend High School as a fourth-generation resident, moved away and returned about 15 years ago, after a 25-year career as a glassblower in Seattle. She would carry small prints of her grandfather’s photos and it was while she was hiking in the Olympics that she decided to take the time to scan her grandfather’s negatives. George had passed them on to Ann, one of the daughters of his son Joe Welch, who also fathered Mark Welch, who became a photography and video teacher at Port Townsend High School. “Old 5-by-7 (inch) negatives. You could scan them at high resolution and restore them,” she said. “I spent one winter scanning about 1,500 negatives … he kind of worked his way into my head.” That led Ann in 2002 to attempt to locate and rephotograph those same places, which took her deep into the Olympics, sometimes to the wrong place. “You would sometimes walk for days and go ‘Oops.’” Other times, she “had eureka moments, where you’d go, ‘Wow, this is the spot.’ It’s really great sport.” Using a digital camera, she gets as close to the same image as she can, but it’s never perfect. Optics, the focal length of lenses and depth of field all distort the image. The beauty and power of Ann’s work is the extent to which she ensured the old image and the new one were adjusted so every point of each picture lines up perfectly. One day, she was wedged into some bushes, comparing one of George’s prints to a vista of Silver Lake. “He took this photo at Silver Lake of these young men sitting on a rock that was called ‘Scouts at Gold Creek Pass,’ which was really Silver Lake,” she said.
ABOVE LEFT: “Photography was his love,” Ann Welch said of her grandfather George Welch, who took this black and white photograph of Mount Olympus in the early part of the 20th century, “his focus and his love.” ABOVE MIDDLE: She picked up that same passion, tracking down her relative’s photo locations to match them up with her modern-day snaps. Photos courtesy of Ann Welch ABOVE RIGHT: Glacial researchers working in the Olympic National Forest have used George Welch’s photos (1903-1925) to track the Olympic Mountain glaciers. “After deer in the Olympics” is what George Welch titled this photograph. Photo courtesy of George Welch Collection BELOW: George Welch took this photograph (left) of Boy Scouts on a rock at Silver Lake; Welch was one of the first Scout leaders in Port Townsend. He named the photo “Scouts at Gold Creek Pass.” His granddaughter, Ann Welch, found the same rock (right) and posed hikers (and poets) Chuck Easton, Mike O’Connor and Tim McNulty at the spot. Photo courtesy of George Welch Collection It was a group of Boy Scouts. (George led one of the area’s first Scout troops.) She heard some voices walking down the trail and it was Tim McNulty, a good friend and knowledgeable Olympic Mountains hiker who had helped her identify some of the other places in her grandfather’s photos. She ran down the trail and caught him, and he helped her see that the vista matched the photo. They were so excited, they were jumping up and down, she said. She arranged McNulty, along with his companions Chuck Easton and Mike O’Connor, on the same rock the Scouts sat on in the old photo, “in front of what we can only assume were the same trees.” Not long after her grandfather had been at Gold Creek with the Boy Scouts, there had been a huge forest fire in that area, she said. “The visual means of showing how things have changed is pretty visceral,” Ann said. Glacial researchers working in the Olympic National Forest have used George Welch’s photos to track glaciers, she added. “When you go out and start one of these projects … with our callous minds, we believe we’re going to find all this degradation,” she said, but instead, “what you find is rejuvenation.”
Everybody wanted to make it a park. It had to do with tourism. They wanted a road through the middle, so people could go see it … to get people to go appreciate this extraordinary wilderness.
— Ann Welch, Port Townsend Summer 2016 LOP 9
Shi Shi Beach on the Pacific Ocean is one of the spectacular features of Olympic National Park.
Olympic National Park: By the numbers Story and photo by Patrick J. Sullivan
2 150 inches of rainfall, on average, each year in the rain forest, perhaps the wettest area in the continental United States
2 Three ecosystems: sub-alpine forest and wildflower meadow, temperate forest and Pacific shore
2 200 inches of precipitation on Mount Olympus each year
2 Four regions: Pacific coastline, alpine forests, rain forest, glaciers
2 251 feet —The tallest grand fir tree in the park, located along the Duckabush River Trail
2 Six wilderness areas: Buckhorn, The Brothers, Mount Skokomish, Olympic, Colonel Bob and Wonder Mountain
2 298 feet — The tallest Douglas-fir tree in the park, located near the Hoh River Trail
2 Eight plants, 15 animals that evolved nowhere else on Earth
2 600 — About the deepest point of Lake Crescent; the lake is 12 miles in length.
2 11 major river systems: Elwha, Sol Duc, Bogachiel, Calawah, Hoh, Queets, Quinault, Skokomish, Duckabush, Dosewallips, Gray Wolf 2 27 states in the U.S. with national parks 2 30 days in advance you need to secure a backcountry permit for the park’s high-use areas 2 62 miles of wilderness ocean shoreline within Olympic National Park; the shoreline was added to the park in 1953 2 90 — The number of feet in the “falls” portion of Marymere Falls 2 135 miles of pristine coastline are within the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary
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2 1,441 square miles within Olympic National Park 2 7,965 feet — Mount Olympus rises to this distance (2,428 meters) as the peninsula’s tallest point; the mountain has three distinct peaks 2 12,000 years, First People had lived on what became the Olympic Peninsula before the first white explorers arrived 2 633,000 — Acres within the Olympic National Forest, which has 17 campgrounds 2 922,651 acres in total, of which 366,000 acres contain old-growth trees 2 3,263,761 — Visitors to Olympic National Park in 2015
Olympic National Park timeline of events 1778 — British Navy Capt. James Cook charts Cape Flattery, the oldest name now in use on official maps of Washington. 1862 — The federal Homestead Act allows people to claim 160 acres of land (320 for a married couple) of public land for a small fee; it’s one reason settlers eventually move to the rugged and wild Olympic Peninsula. 1872 — President U.S. Grant makes Yellowstone the first national park. 1892 — Front page headline in the Port Townsend Leader newspaper: “Ho! For the Hoh Fair and Fertile Valley Beyond the Olympics. Room for 500 Settlers and Claims Still Vacant. Not Only Rich Lands, But Gold, Tin, Coal, and Fine Timber.” 1885 — U.S. Army Lieut. Joseph P. O’Neil led a party of enlisted men and civilian engineers from Port Angeles into the Olympic Mountains, the first recorded such exploration attempt. 1889-90 — 1889, the year Washington became a state, the Seattle Press newspaper called for “hardy citizens … to acquire fame by unveiling the mystery which wraps the land encircled by the snow capped Olympic range.” This call was answered by James Christie, who volunteered to organize an expedition if the Press would finance it. The Press Party consisted of six men (one of them left the expedition early; five completed the trip) whom the Press described as having “an abundance of grit and manly vim,” four dogs, two mules and 1,500 pounds of supplies. 1897 — President Grover Cleveland designates the Olympic Peninsula’s forests as the Olympic Forest Reserve. 1906 — “Heavy rains, swollen rivers, the absence of decent roads and other unconquerable obstacles conspired to defeat the desire of the people of Pacific precinct in Western Jefferson County from participating in the election last Tuesday,” the Port Townsend Leader reports. 1909 — President Theodore Roosevelt creates Mount Olympus National Monument (610,560 acres) on March 2, 1909, primarily to protect the subalpine calving grounds of the native Roosevelt elk. The acreage is reduced by about half in 1915. 1915 — Singer’s Tavern opens on the shores of Lake Crescent, with five of the original rooms still part of today’s Lake Crescent Lodge. The National Park Service acquires the lodge property in 1951. According to the Port Townsend Leader, “Word was received in this city yesterday afternoon (May 1915) that a Ford touring car driven by Frank Hart had completed the trip over the Olympic Highway (U.S. Highway 101 along Hood Canal) from Quilcene to Olympia. Hart is the first man to have covered the entire distance.” The Seattle Times editorializes that opening the Olympic Highway means the Olympic Peninsula will experience “an era of settlement and exploitation and a great wave of prosperity.” 1916 — The National Park Service is created “to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and wildlife therein, and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.”
1925 — “The west end of this new Olympic highway section will open up the Clearwater and Quillayute valleys, which it is said will prove to be the richest and most productive agriculture district of Jefferson County,” the Port Townsend Leader reports. 1926 —“Prospects for the further favorable consideration of the East-West Olympic Peninsula federal highway via the Dosewallips and Quinault rivers from Hood Canal to the Pacific Ocean are excellent,” according to the Port Townsend Leader. The cross-peninsula highway is never built. Lake Quinault Lodge is constructed in 1926, styled after Old Faithful Inn in Yellowstone and Sun Valley Lodge in Idaho. The first lodge was built in 1924 but after a kitchen fire in 1926 caused it to burn to the ground, it was rebuilt, bigger and better, in just 53 days. 1931 — The Olympic Loop Highway (today known as U.S. Highway 101) is completed, forming a 330-mile loop around the peninsula. 1933 — Five camps of Civilian Conservation Corps members, a work-relief program started by President Franklin Roosevelt during the Great Depression, begin work on the peninsula. Many of their construction projects still are in use today. 1937 — The Port Townsend Chamber of Commerce goes on record opposing the plan for Congress to set aside 634,000 acres on the Olympic Peninsula for creation of a new national park. 1938 — President Franklin Roosevelt signs the act establishing Olympic National Park on June 29, 1938. He visited the area in 1937. 1953 — Added to the park are 73 miles of Pacific Ocean coastline. 1956 — Ruth Mueller of Brinnon is among members of the recent crossmountain caravan sponsored by the Olympic Development League. 1957 — Olympic National Park, opened in 1938, hits a record high visitation of 864,849 people. 1959 — Mrs. George Mueller and Mrs. A.J. Hanson of Port Townsend, with packs on their backs, took a 2-day hike into the Olympics. They left Wednesday morning and hiked to Dose Meadows, and Thursday proceeded to Hayden Pass, returning in the evening to Musket Flat, where they were met by Mr. Hanson and the children. On the way they saw whistling marmots and enjoyed every minute of the trip. The girls were classmates at Quilcene High and each has four children. Next year they plan to make the trip again, taking their two oldest children with them. 1967 — Jefferson County commissioners write letters to state congressmen pushing for development of a ski area in the Dosewallips basin. 1976 — The park is designated an International Biosphere Reserve. 1981 — The park is designated a World Heritage site in recognition of its exceptional natural beauty and outstanding diversity of plants and animals. 1988 — Congress designates 95 percent of the park as the Olympic Wilderness.
1916 — The U.S. Forest Service is this morning contemplating the connection of the Dosewallips-Elwha-Quinault trail, “doubtless the most important avenue to the heart of the Olympics,” the Port Townsend Leader reports.
2014 — The largest dam removal and restoration project in U.S. history, on the Elwha River, concludes after three years. The river’s ecosystem is opened to spawning salmon for the first time since about 1910.
1920s — Mountain goats are introduced into the park. By 1981, the goats had damaged so much landscape, the herd began to be controlled.
2015 — Record drought on the Olympic Peninsula leads to a lightningcaused wildfire in the rain forest near Quinault.
1921 — A hurricane-force windstorm on Jan. 29, 1921, results in several billion board feet of blown-down timber on the Olympic Peninsula, the largest such loss as of that time.
2016 — After one of the wettest, stormiest winters on record, Olympic National Park employees are working to restore access to remote locations for the summer of 2016.
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Olympic National Park regulations, information 2 There are 17 campgrounds in Olympic National Park. They operate on a first-come, first-served basis, with the exception of Kalaloch Campground, which takes reservations for a limited time. 2 Summers are most popular and more crowded as weather is warmer and drier. Plan to arrive early to obtain space, especially on weekends. Entrance fees (good for seven days) are collected at Elwha, Heart O’ the Hills/Hurricane Ridge, Hoh, Sol Duc and Staircase entrance stations from May-September or later. Camping is limited to 14 consecutive days. 2 Camping fees are subject to change. Sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Most campgrounds provide water, toilets and garbage containers. Individual campsites offer a picnic table and fire pit or grill. No hook-ups, showers or laundry facilities are available in park campgrounds. Sites best accommodate trailers 21 feet or less. Major campgrounds have a few sites that will accommodate larger RVs. 2 Higher elevations are snow-covered from early November to late June. Some campgrounds and comfort stations are closed and water systems drained during off seasons. The number of sites also may be limited at that time. Inquire about open facilities upon arrival during the off season. 2 Water repellent clothing is advisable. Include warm clothing and a windbreaker for higher elevations and cool evenings. 2 Group reservations are available at Kalaloch and Mora by contacting the respective ranger station directly. 2 Firewood — In campgrounds where wood is not available for sale by concession services, visitors may collect dead wood on the ground within one mile of the campgrounds. Wood gathering is permitted along road corridors within 100 feet of the road. In the Deer Park area, firewood may
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be collected only in designated areas. 2 Hunting and Firearms — Hunting or disturbance of wildlife in any manner is prohibited in national parks. As of Feb. 22, 2010, a new federal law allows people who can legally possess firearms under applicable federal, state and local laws, to legally possess firearms in Olympic National Park. It is the responsibility of visitors to understand and comply with all applicable state, local and federal firearms laws before entering the park. Federal law also prohibits firearms in certain facilities in the park; those places are marked with signs at all public entrances. See http://apps.leg. wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=9.41 for Washington’s laws regarding firearms. 2 Laundry Facilities — Available in Port Angeles, Sequim, LaPush, Forks and some smaller towns along U.S. Highway 101.
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2 Pets — Pets are permitted on a leash (up to 6 feet in length) in park campgrounds and parking areas. Pets are prohibited in all park buildings, in the backcountry and generally all park trails. Leashed pets are permitted on trails in Olympic National Forest. 2 Feeding wildlife is prohibited for the health of the animals and your safety.
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Moss covered vine maples mixed with ferns and many species of trees greet hikers on trails in Olympic National Forest.
Olympic National Park vs. Olympic National Forest … What’s the difference? Story and photos by Christi Baron Since the 1880s, the Olympic Peninsula’s spectacular mountains, lush rain forest and amazing wildlife have captured the attention of visitors, park advocates and nature lovers. By 1890, naturalist John Muir, Washington Congressman James Wickersham and Lt. Joseph O’Neil, who led the first well-documented exploration of the Peninsula’s interior, each respectively proposed creation of a national park on the Olympic Peninsula. Visitors and sometimes locals, too, get confused on the differences between Olympic National Forest and Olympic National Park. There is a difference.
OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST (ONF)
Olympic National Forest originally was created as the Olympic Forest Reserve in 1897, by President Grover Cleveland in response to concern about the area’s disappearing forests. It was then renamed Olympic National Forest in 1907. It is administered in two ranger districts: the Pacific Ranger District on
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the west side of the Olympic Peninsula, and the Hood Canal Ranger District on the east side. ONF is overseen by the Department of Agriculture and contains 628,115 acres.
OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK (ONP)
U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt originally created Mount Olympus National Monument on March 2, 1909. It was designated a national park by President Franklin Roosevelt on June 29, 1938. An additional area of Pacific coast was added in 1953. In 1976, Olympic National Park became an International Biosphere Reserve and in 1981 it was designated a World Heritage Site. In 1988, Congress designated 95 percent of the park as the Olympic Wilderness. ONP is overseen by the Department of Interior and contains 922,000 acres. Many things permitted in ONF are not allowed in ONP and sometimes that is confusing for people. While dogs are allowed only in certain areas in ONP, they are allowed everywhere in ONF, with leashes being required in developed areas. While both offer recreational opportunities, one of the main differences is the other activities that can take place in ONF. ONF allows hunting and the harvesting of forest products.
RECREATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES (ONF)
While thousands of people come each year to see the Hoh Rain Forest and what the park has to offer, ONF is no slouch when it comes to things to do and see and places to camp.
THE PACIFIC RANGER DISTRICT
Olympic National Forest has over 250 miles of trail, half of which are at low elevations and can be enjoyed year-round. The forest has eight nature trails with signs that provide interpretation of the forest’s unique features or history. These trails are special recreation paths and are generally located near developed recreation sites such as campgrounds and picnic areas.
• Colonel Bob Trail This trail is located within Colonel Bob Wilderness in a setting of dense old-growth conifer forest with a lush understory of rain forest vegetation. Those that make the summit will enjoy a panoramic view of Lake Quinault from the summit of Colonel Bob. The Colonel Bob Trail gains over 4,200 feet in 7.2 miles to the summit. It is described as an aggressive trail and for those that really want to get away and enjoy a real workout. • Pete’s Creek Trail This difficult trail leads into beautiful temperate rain forest within Colonel Bob Wilderness. • West Forks Humptulips Trail The West Forks Humptulips Trail is about 17 miles in length. Trail grades are generally 0-10 percent with a few grades of up to 20 percent. This trail follows the river within a remote valley. Earlier this spring the trail received some work and some areas of puncheon were added. If hiking in the Quinault area, be on the look-out for the Moss-Squatch. The “Largest Sitka Spruce” also is available for viewing. Many of the trails in the Quinault area are remote and aggressive great for those that really want to get away from it all and get a workout!
Closer to Forks and still in the Pacific Ranger District, ONF offers several camping areas and trails. • Klahowya Campground Adjacent to the south shore of the Sol Duc River, the rain forest setting hosts an accessible interpretive nature trail, fishing, picnicking and trails to explore the natural beauty. Interpretive programs are presented in the amphitheater during the summer. The campground usually opens in late May and is open until September. • Klahanie Campground Klahanie is located on the South Fork Calawah River and has a typical temperate coastal rain forest canopy, including old-growth spruce over 8 feet in diameter, hanging mosses and a lush carpet of wood sorel and sword fern. Klahanie currently is getting a new waterline system and typically opens in late spring. • Bogachiel Rain Forest Trail This dog and family friendly trail provides a great opportunity to view old-growth rain forest in a wetland setting. Travel though old-growth spruce, cedar and hemlock with hanging mosses and a floor of ferns. Sadly, the trail has experienced some major damage from a shift in the river and has washouts in several areas. In addition to trail damage, the county road that leads to the trail is closed to outside traffic, leaving the Bogachiel Trailhead not accessible to vehicle traffic. This trailhead accesses Bogachiel Rain Forest River Trail and Ira Spring Wetland Trail, which are part of the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail. While the closure does not restrict foot access, there is no suitable parking area. • Mount Muller Trail The 12.8-mile loop trail has a few 20 percent grades with some exposed rock outcrops. Horses and mountain bikers should be in good condition before attempting the loop. The south end of the trail provides gentle grades. A quarter mile of the southeast corner of the trail is a shared route
This log bridge is located on the Bogachiel Rain Forest Trail. Many times trail crews make use of trees like this instead of building an actual bridge.
with the Olympic Discovery Trail (ODT). From a lush temperate forest valley, the trail climbs 2,200 feet in three miles to Snider Ridge. It weaves four miles through Douglas-fir trees on the north side of the ridge and rocky points and high meadows to the south. The trail meanders along the ridge top between Jim’s Junction and Mosley Gap. It offers spectacular views of Mount Olympus, Lake Crescent, the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Sol Duc Valley below. The Pacific Ranger District also is working on plans for an ATV sustainable trail system to be located in the Calawah area. Many of ONF trails and campgrounds received damage from wind and flooding events over the winter and crews have been working hard to get them in shape for the summer season. While there may be confusion on the difference between ONP and ONF there is no confusion on the fact they both offer great places to get away and enjoy the beauty of the area.
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Sequim strawberries and handmade cheese from Mystery Bay Farm come together on a thick slice of honey-spread Pane d’Amore bread for a rustic breakfast.
INSPIRED BY THE SEASON Simple,tasty breakfast highlights market fare Story and photo by Katie Kowalski Ambling through the Port Townsend Saturday Farmers Market is a weekly weekend delight. Freshly picked bunches of red radishes and bags brimming with tender spinach fill the stands of local farmers, sweet nibbles abound, scents of savory cuisine permeate the air and the sounds of live, lively tunes and children playing infuse the little Uptown block with the atmosphere of a small-town festival. Having recently moved into a tiny studio apartment just a short walk away, I’ve made the market my go-to place for getting the freshest produce I can while partaking of the energetic community spirit and treating myself to something special: perhaps a velvety black coffee from Java Gypsy accompanied by a honey cinnamon roll from Pane d’Amore (one of the most delicious I’ve ever tasted). My market trips usually conclude in my kitchen with a cloth shopping bag bearing whatever farm-fresh fare has caught my eye — and can fit in my mini-fridge. For a few weeks in the spring, I designed several meals around some beautiful bunches of purple broccoli rabe that I sampled from both Finnriver and Nash’s farms. I enjoyed those slender stalks with lots of fresh lemon and a bit of Parmesan cheese as a side to pasta or quinoa; with thinly sliced roasted potatoes; or piled atop a slice of garlic-rubbed bread. Now in the summer months, I’m embracing strawberries: the melt-inyour-mouth candy of the season. The following is a sweet yet substantial breakfast idea reminiscent of strawberry shortcake, but with a rustic personality. The ingredient list is
short — bread, honey, goat cheese, black pepper and sliced strawberries — but the quality of each element controls the outcome and the flavor combination is superb: The tanginess of the goat cheese balances well with the rich sweetness of the honey and the succulent strawberries, while a slice of artisan wheat bread contributes a rustic base and the cracked black peppercorns add a warming, aromatic kick. 1) Start with a thick (1-inch) slice of bread. I like Pane d’Amore’s wheat bread, which I purchase in a whole, uncut loaf. Though getting the loaf sliced is nice for sandwiches, I like having the flexibility of cutting it myself and having a really substantial base on which to pile toppings. 2) Toast the bread until the edges are just starting to burn and then immediately spread with honey — I like a thick, raw one with an earthy character. 3) Top with goat cheese, as much or as little as you like. Try Mystery Bay Farm’s plain variety. Then, sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper. Sometimes I add a pinch of Himalayan salt. 4) Finally, layer on sliced strawberries. To alter the above as an appetizer, try smaller slices of bread (I spied a Pane d’Amore croissant loaf recently at the market that I imagine would make a sublime base), add a bit of lemon zest to the goat cheese, drizzle on a balsamic reduction sauce, pour a glass of crisp sauvignon blanc — and you’re set. Happy munching! For more adventures in food and photography, follow Katie Kowalski on Instagram at @katiealexa23. Finnriver Farm & Cidery is at 142 Barn Swallow Road in Chimacum; Nash’s Organic Produce/ Farm Store is at 4681 Sequim-Dungeness Way, Sequim.
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Sharp in her uniform and happy to be in her element at Hurricane Ridge, Sanny Lustig presents a positive image of the National Park Service to visitors from near and far. Photo by Daniel Silverberg
Park ranger revels in educating ONP visitors Story by Patricia Morrison Coate Photos courtesy of Olympic National Park As a freckle-faced girl in the late 1970s and early 1980s, Susannah “Sanny” Lustig has many fond memories of her family from the San Francisco Bay area hiking and camping in Olympic National Park. Today, she continues to make memories in ONP as the Hurricane Ridge ranger, wilderness patrol supervisor and park search and rescue coordinator. “I didn’t expect to become a ranger,” Lustig said, seated at a shaded picnic table at park headquarters in Port Angeles. “I understood how hard it was to become a ranger so I worked nine summer seasons not expecting a full-time career. I worked my way up to a backcountry patrol ranger and stayed at a tent station 10 days at a time patrolling the trails and being available for search and rescue.” With experience behind her at Mount Rainier National Park, Lustig came to ONP in 1994 when she was about 23, working as a seasonal
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backcountry ranger, and in 1998 she became a permanent ranger. In transitioning through her career, she’s had stints as a ranger at Lake Ozette and Staircase, both in ONP, and has been at Hurricane Ridge since 2006. Even though she knew earning the title of ranger would be a challenge, Lustig said she pursued the career because, “I really love being a seasonal steward of public lands, in the role of being a protector of public lands, so when the opportunities arose to be a career ranger, it was really easy to decide to do that. Having an opportunity in this park is especially great.”
Lustig sees her duties primarily as educating the park’s visitors on its flora and fauna in order to protect both. “Most of my job is protecting the park through education and information about not feeding wildlife or birds. It’s tempting for visitors to get too close to bears foraging along Hurricane Ridge Road, so often in May (after hibernation) I have
My job is resource protection through education and making people understand what the regulations are and why.
— Sanny Lustig Olympic National Park Hurricane Ridge ranger, wilderness patrol supervisor and park search and rescue coordinator
an emphasis patrol hazing bears with rubber bullets to keep the bears’ wariness about being too close to humans. It’s an inherent problem for bears if they lose their fear.” Lustig also cautioned about feeding birds, especially crows and all other members of its corvid family, because their aggressiveness can impact other songbirds. “My job is resource protection through education and making people understand what the regulations are and why,” Lustig said.
Bryan Bell, wilderness information supervisor, left, and ranger Sanny Lustig were completing a snow survey for the Natural Resources Conservation Service.
The favorite part of my job is talking to visitors because I think it’s best when citizens can enjoy public lands. — Sanny Lustig ONP has exclusive jurisdiction so only U.S. national park rangers have law enforcement authority in the park. These rangers are sworn officers of the law and take those duties seriously. Lustig spent five months at the Federal Law Enforcement Training Center in Glynco, Ga., to become qualified in law enforcement. “I learned how to patrol, physical fitness tactics, firearms, arrest procedures, report writing and how to prepare cases for court — every aspect of law enforcement,” Lustig said, noting there have been occasions when she’s had to draw her 9 mm semi-automatic pistol. She’s also issued a Taser, shotgun and rifle. “My duties are to respond to any incidents in the area and the northeast side of the park. The same sorts of law enforcement incidents that happen in the city happen in the park, but I want to impress that national parks are about the safest place to be regarding criminal activity,” Lustig said. “About the least likely way to get hurt in the park is by animals. People are much more likely to get hurt by human decision making.” As the search and rescue coordinator, Lustig is responsible for maintaining equipment used in finding someone who’s lost or injured and ensuring it’s ready and the S&R team is well-trained for a fast response. She said she spends many hours every year in S&R/resources management training and wilderness training and now is an instructor for the latter. “Most of the time people get into trouble is by human decision making. The most unsafe thing is not being prepared and getting yourself in trouble, things as simple as not letting someone know your plans and intentions, not having a wilderness permit and extra gear if things don’t go as planned,” Lustig advised.
In their line of duty, rangers have to be ready for anything and maintain their professionalism at all times. Lustig recounted one of the most traumatic times in ONP’s history. “Yes, probably the most harrowing time was in 1997 and I was a seasonal ranger as part of a search team near Mount Baldy by Sequim,” Lustig began. “We were being demobilized from the search and watching from the ground when a helicopter crashed into the mountain slopes above us and we had to rescue our colleagues. Three of nine died and the rest were pretty significantly injured.” The teams had been sent to look for a 73-yearold hiker lost in the Buckhorn Wilderness of adjacent Olympic National Forest when the first
team crashed and Lustig and her team had to rush to treat them, throwing off their own shock. The family called off the search and the hiker never was found. “Another time we thought a man was trying ‘suicide by cop’ but everyone was safe and no one got hurt … a big part of being a ranger is making sure things happen safely and well,” Lustig said. As she’s risen in the ranks, now at 45, Lustig has taken on more administrative duties but she continues to interact with hikers and campers. “I try to be in the park part of every day, talking to people — I can meet people from all over the world. The favorite part of my job,” Lustig said, “is talking to visitors because I think it’s best when citizens can enjoy public lands. One of the best things about our democracy and participating in it brings me a lot of joy. “We’ve been given a gift and I get just as excited when people from Sequim visit as someone from a foreign country. I ask my seasonal rangers to interact with 10 foreigners from different countries and that’s easy on a busy summer day.” With some 3.2 million visitors to ONP in 2015, there’s probably not a routine day for Lustig, but she described in general her typical day. “I’ll spend some time at Hurricane Ridge contacting visitors by sharing information and education and I have lots of days writing reports and scheduling for patrol staff, plus I spend lots of time maintaining the S&R equipment,” Lustig said. “Now I’m doing a wildland fire refresher course because there’s more and more understanding about the role of fire in keeping the park healthy — our goal is successful management. The fires that we manage are pretty much natural fires.” Other ranger duties were calling, so Lustig stood to leave, saying, “I didn’t anticipate to live here my whole career — and I love living in Olympic National Park. I can’t imagine a better place to live and work. I feel very, very lucky to work for the National Park Service.”
Ranger Sanny Lustig relays information on a radio to a team member while they were working on an Olympex climate study that is part of a larger NASA study. Photo by Bill Baccus
Summer 2016 LOP 23
The headquarters of Olympic National Park are at 600 E. Park Ave. in Port Angeles.
Getting to know the National Park Service As the National Park Service marks its 100th anniversary in August this year, here are some frequently asked questions about it: 2 Who is the director of the National Park Service? Jonathan B. Jarvis 2 What government agency oversees the National Park Service? The National Park Service is a bureau of the Department of the Interior. Directly overseeing its operation is the Department’s Assistant Secretary for Fish, Wildlife and Parks. 2 How many employees are in the National Park Service? Permanent, temporary and seasonal: Approximately 22,000 diverse professionals Volunteers in Parks: 221,000 2 How old is the National Park System? The National Park Service was created by an act signed by President Woodrow Wilson on Aug. 25, 1916. Yellowstone National Park was established by an act signed by President Ulysses S. Grant on March 1, 1872, as the nation’s first national park. 2 What is the origin of the National Park Service arrowhead? The arrowhead was authorized as the official National Park Service emblem by the Secretary of the Interior on July 20, 1951. The components of the arrowhead may have been inspired by key attributes of the National Park System, with the sequoia tree and bison representing vegetation and wildlife, the mountains and water representing scenic and recreational values, and the arrowhead itself representing historical and archeological values. 2 How many areas are in the National Park System? The system includes 411 areas covering more than 84 million acres in every state, the District of Columbia, American Samoa, Guam, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands. These areas include national parks, monuments, battlefields, military parks, historical parks, historic sites, lake shores, seashores, recreation areas, scenic rivers and trails, and the White House. 2 What is the largest national park site? What
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is the smallest? Largest: Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, Alaska, at 13.2 million acres Smallest: Thaddeus Kosciuszko National Memorial, Pennsylvania, at 0.02 acres 2 How many people visit the national parks? Total recreation visitors to the national parks in 2015: 307,247,252 2 What is the most-visited national park? The top 10 are: 1. Great Smoky Mountains NP 10,712,674 2. Grand Canyon NP 5,520,736 3. Rocky Mountain NP 4,155,916 4. Yosemite NP 4,150,217 5. Yellowstone NP 4,097,710 6. Zion NP 3,648,846 7. Olympic NP 3,263,761 8. Grand Teton NP 3,149,921 9. Acadia NP 2,811,184 10. Glacier NP 2,366,056 2 What is the National Park Service budget? FY 2014 Enacted: $2.98 billion FY 2015 Request: $3.65 billion 2 How do I obtain a park pass? You can obtain park passes by visiting your nearest park site. Most sites have passes available; the NPS recommends calling a park prior to your visit. Learn more about the America the Beautiful — National Parks and Federal Recreation Lands Pass. 2 Where can I find a park map? You can view maps on specific park websites. 2 How do I make reservations for camping/ lodging in national parks? For campground reservations, visit www.Recreation.gov. Not all parks participate in this service; many campgrounds are first come, first served. For more information on specific camping and lodging services offered at the park(s) of your interest, check the specific park websites. 2 What do I need to know about driving off road in national parks? Before you head out, check with the national parks that you intend to visit. In many national parks, off-road driving is illegal. Where off-road driving is allowed, the National Park Service regulates it. — Courtesy of the National Park Service
Celebrating 100 years The National Park Service turns 100 on Aug. 25 and everyone is welcome to take part in the celebration. The centennial will kick off a second century of stewardship of America’s national parks and engaging communities through recreation, conservation and historic preservation programs. Fee-free admission to national parks will be offered Aug. 25-28, plus Sept. 24 for National Public Lands Day and Nov. 11 in honor of Veterans Day. The fee waiver includes entrance fees, commercial tour fees and transportation entrance fees. Other fees such as reservation, camping, tours and concessions are not included. Kids can join in the Centennial celebration by discovering the wonder of our country’s majestic national parks in a fun, informative and adventure-filled Centennial Junior Ranger booklet. The guide is filled with color photos, fun facts, cool things to do, conservation tips and more. Download it at www.tinyurl.com/100JuniorRanger. The United States Mint is commemorating the National Park Service’s Centennial by issuing three limitededition coins. The 100th anniversary of the National Park Service Commemorative Coin Program includes a $5 gold coin, a silver dollar and a half dollar clad coin. Proceeds from coin sales go to the National Park Foundation to support projects that protect parks for future generations. For more information about the park service’s centennial, visit www.tinyurl. com/NPScentennial.
alternates between Sequim and Port Townsend, the second Saturday in Sequim, the fourth in Port Townsend. This Saturday’s full roster included a workshop and concert, given by Ryan McKasson, and impromptu jam sessions, with plenty of time to visit with fiddling friends and indulge at a table laden with homemade goodies. Oh, and the day ends with something called a contra dance, but more about that later. The fiddlers are indeed a friendly bunch. I arrived in the midst of McKasson’s workshop whereby Cathy Van Ruhan, secretary of the District 15 fiddlers group and a fiddler herself, immediately welcomed me and introduced me to Don Betts, chairman of the group, as well as 66-year-old Stephen Nordine, who proclaimed to be one of the original members of the club. Nordine, a crusty-looking chap who is anything but, was holding an interesting-looking instrument he said was an octave mandolin. A what? I’ve only heard of plain mandolins, so it was a treat to hear him talk about the instrument, which went something like having four pairs of strings tuned in fifths, an octave below a mandolin. Guess that explains it, all right. “Ten or 12 years ago, there used to be five of us,” Nordine said of the Fiddlers. “I’ve seen a lot of changes and things are still changing.” I asked him if that was good or bad — he simply smiled through his wiry beard, not wanting to commit one way or the other. Today there are more than 100 dues-paying members in the District 15 Old Time Fiddlers Association. Betts, a retired public works supervisor and California transplant, has been “in and out” of the Fiddlers for the past 12 years. He likes to fiddle, but admits he is more a guitarist and bassist. “When this group gets together, the idea is to play an instrument you are not really familiar with,” he explained. It was, however, difficult to imagine Betts not being familiar with the fiddle when he sat down to an impromptu jam session and fiddled away. During a break in the workshop, Pet Crose, 84, (“one of the oldest here,”) wandered over to take his violin — sorry, fiddle — out of its case. He began by playing as a concert violinist while a student in high school, played with the Omaha University Symphony and then the Port Angeles Symphony when he moved to the North Olympic Peninsula. But he turned to playing the violin in the fiddler’s way. “Fiddling gives you more freedom,” he said, adding, “it’s a personal thing.”
Clallam and Jefferson counties Old Time Fiddlers get together for fun, jamming and entertaining their audiences Story and photos by Mary Powell ON A SOMEWHAT DREARY, DRIZZLY SATURDAY IN APRIL of this year — the fourth Saturday of the month, to be exact — the irregular parking lot surrounding the Quimper Grange in Port Townsend was crowded with cars, trucks and a couple of motorcycles, all parked every which way. Inside, however, there was nothing whatsoever dreary in the airy, barnlike grange. On the contrary. Stepping over the the threshold, the mishmash of musicians jamming on fiddles, guitars, mandolins, string basses and harmonicas struck an immediate chord of cheerfulness. Welcome to the Old Time Fiddlers twice-monthly meeting, which
Top left: Stephen Nordine, playing an octave mandolin, teams up with Victor Reventlow on guitar. Above: Dancers twirl and turn at a contra dance in Tacoma. No one sits when the band — members of the Washington Old Time Fiddlers Association — turns out lively tunes on fiddles, guitars, basses, mandolins and harmonicas. Photo courtesy of the Washington Old Time Fiddlers Association
Summer 2016 LOP 25
Kate Powers, far left, and brother Ethan Powers, playing guitar, along with Bill Woods, with the bodhran, join workshop leader Ryan McKasson in concert at the Quimper Grange in Port Townsend.
THE WASHINGTON OLD TIME FIDDLERS ASSOCIATION
Although not as old as the glorious Olympic National Park, celebrating its 78th anniversary this year, the Washington Old Time Fiddlers Association is every bit as delightful with its array of fiddle-style music. The Washington Old Time Fiddlers Association is a nonprofit organization that began in 1965 to preserve and promote old-time fiddling and related music. There are about 1,700 members statewide. Members belong to one of 17 geographic districts. District 15 encompasses Clallam and Jefferson counties, where about 100 bluegrass, old-time, Irish, Scottish, swing-playing musicians enjoy their craft. The active organization, both statewide and locally, performs throughout the year at various functions, including retirement homes, senior centers, clubs, religious groups and civic functions, to name a few. In fact, a few days following the Port Townsend gathering, three of the members showed up at Sequim Health and Rehabilitation to entertain the residents. It was the highlight of the residents’ day, especially for one Ardella Barney. Sitting comfortably in her wheelchair amid other fans, Barney clapped her hands and sang along to every old-time piece the threesome played. How did she know all the words? Turns out her late husband played the harmonica in several bluegrass-type bands when the two of them lived in Utah. The memory brought a few tears to her eyes but she was happy to have the fellas come to entertain. Steve Sahnow, playing a mean harmonica, Jack Reagon, on the guitar and Vern Sprague, fingers flying on the banjo, joked with the group and among themselves, teasing Sprague for being late to the gig. But most of all, they were pleased to entertain the folks and have the opportunity to do their thing. WOTFA offers plenty of activities for the old-time fiddling folks, such as fiddle, guitar and mandolin music workshops, campouts and a wealth of opportunities to jam, socialize and learn new tunes. The annual state convention takes place each July; this year it will be held in Moses Lake. (Full disclosure: I lived in Moses Lake for 20 years before coming to Sequim. My friends and I had a favorite watering hole whereby fiddle-style music was on tap. Pretty fun stuff, I must say.)
BACK TO THE GRANGE
To watch McKasson is to understand the joy of playing the fiddle.
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During a performance after the workshop he presented, McKasson’s personality melded with his fiddle-playing. With each tune the perpetual toe-tapping would start with a slow cadence and gain momentum as the song progressed, until his foot was a-stomping up and down, up and down. And the smile on his face grew bigger and bigger in the same way. The workshop involved teaching fundamental fiddling techniques, such as flicks, cuts, swing the groove, all way over my level of understanding. CONTINUED ON PAGE 29
DID YOU KNOW?
The oldest and most basic instrument of roots music is not the guitar but the fiddle. For years the fiddle was virtually the only instrument found on the frontier and in the South it was used widely enough that as early as 1736 we find written accounts of fiddle contests. Though often thought of today as primarily a white instrument — and indeed many tunes and styles came over from Ireland and Scotland — there arose in the 19th century a strong fiddle tradition among blacks. Some of it started out as slave fiddling, in which talented slaves were sent to places like New Orleans to learn how to fiddle standard dance tunes. Blues composer W.C. Handy remembered his own grandfather in northern Alabama playing fiddle tunes in the late 1800s and a strong style of blues fiddle developed and persisted well into the 1930s. Native Americans and Mexican Americans also developed important fiddle styles in the Southwest. Fiddling has been associated with classic American heroes. George Washington had his favorite fiddle tune (“Jaybird Sittin’ on a Hickory Limb”), as did Thomas Jefferson (“Grey Eagle”). Davy Crockett was a “ferocious” fiddler (the tune “Crockett’s Reel” still is played today), and Andrew Jackson’s victory over the British in the War of 1812 still is celebrated with the popular “Eighth of January.” Though the fiddle was the main instrument in early country music in the 1920s, it gradually was replaced by the steel guitar and electric guitar. It re-emerged in popularity in the 1940s as bluegrass. Innovators like Chubby Wise, Scotty Stoneman, Kenny Baker and Benny Martin turned the fiddle into a driving vehicle for improvisation. — Source: PBS, American Roots Music
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Summer 2016 LOP 27
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A father of four children, he spoke of his parenting and fiddling journey progressing side by side. For instance, of the many songs he has composed, he has written one original composition for each of his children. And that brings us to the age-old question: Is there a difference between a violin and a fiddle? The answer is no, not a physical difference. A violin is a violin; the difference is how it is played, classical or fiddling, both genres a perfect fit for the instrument. Or, how about this inside fiddlers’ joke: A violin has strings, a fiddle has strangs.
Just because the Old Time Fiddlers play old-time music, not all are, shall we say, old-timers. Fortunately there is a fine mix of older musicians and younger players to carry on the fiddling tradition. Case in point: the exceptionally talented brother, sister duo, Kate and Ethan Powers. These two are in a family of 11 children, most musically talented as well, with one sister a wicked spoon player. The family lives in Sequim and has been a part of the Old Time Fiddlers for a few years. Listening to Kate play, it’s difficult to believe she began playing the violin/fiddle just five years ago. She was another who first played classical violin, joining the Port Angeles Symphony. But fiddling won out, especially after she received a scholarship from WOTFA to learn the art.
Above: Ryan McKasson, well-known Scottish fiddler, performs at the Quimper Grange in Port Townsend at an all-day Old Time Fiddlers jamming session and workshop. Right: Ethan Powers takes a break at the all-day Old Time Fiddlers jamming session and workshop at the Quimper Grange in Port Townsend. A gifted musician, Powers holds a banjo he made. CONTINUED FROM PAGE 26
But when it came time to play a tune with the techniques, the fiddlers got it right away. And this all with no printed music. It’s amazing how much music is in the heads of these talented people, even though some confessed to having only played their instruments for a couple of years. From what I learned, fiddlers learns hundreds, even thousands of tunes almost entirely by ear and learn from other musicians at jam sessions such as this one. There is certainly no shortage of talent among the District 15 players. Take Bill Woods, for instance. He and McKasson are long-time friends and both enjoy — OK, they said love — Scottish and Irish music, which just happens to really suit the fiddling style. Woods plays the bodhran (pronounced bough-rawn), an Irish frame drum ranging from 10 to 26 inches in diameter. Goatskin is tacked on one side, with the other side open-ended for one hand to be placed against the inside of the drum head to control the pitch and timbre. One or two crossbars are usually fixed inside the frame. The bodhran may be played with a double-headed stick or with the hand. According to Irish Music magazine, the bodhran evolved in the mid-19th century from the tambourine. Sounds complicated, but Woods on the bodhran and McKasson on the fiddle made such extraordinary music those listening were simply mesmerized. Like many a fiddler, McKasson, who lives in Lakewood, a neighboring city to Tacoma, played classical violin before fiddling. “I like the style of fiddle music, it puts a smile on my face,” he said.
Summer 2016 LOP 29
“She is an awesome, accomplished fiddler,” is how Van Ruhan described Kate. Kate, an unassuming 16 year old who seems older, has taken up teaching within the organization. “I wanted to expand my musical horizons and help other budding fiddlers in my area,” she said. “I teach just about any style of music, including old-time, jazz, Romanian, Gypsy, Scottish, Celtic, Irish, Canadian, Gypsy jazz, as well as focusing on reading chords, improvising and writing your own tunes. Most of all, I try to help students find the fun in an art form that is so downright difficult.” And yet, she makes it look easy when she takes bow to strings. Brother Ethan, 19, is a gifted fiddler but his focus now is on the banjo. That includes making them, a craft he taught himself. He holds a finelooking banjo he recently made — and it has a name. “Sarah the Banjo,” Ethan said in all seriousness. “After my oldest sibling.” Ethan’s interest in making banjos came after he started monkeying around with what he called a cheap banjo, making new bridges for a better sound. From that experience, he decided to make one from scratch. A second one followed, which he sold to Taylor Ackley, a wellknown composer and musician who often performs at venues throughout the North Olympic Peninsula, including Wind Rose Cellars in downtown Sequim. The third banjo went to — you guessed it, Ackley. Ethan’s going to keep Sarah the Banjo. “A nice banjo needs a lot of attention, someone like me to take care of it,” he mused. Derek Stallman is another wave of the future. At 22, he recently completed his Associate of Arts degree at Peninsula College in Port Angeles and is now teaching the art of fiddling. “I’m just getting active in the Old Time Fiddlers,” he said, adding he is a self-taught fiddle player. He also plays the cello; not sure if he plays cello fiddle-style — that would be something to behold.
Keeping time to the music, Ardella Barney, left, enjoys a hand-clapping concert from members of the Old Time Fiddlers at Sequim Health and Rehabilitation. Barney said she knows the words to nearly every old-time piece and loves to sing along. Her late husband, she said, played the harmonica in a group similar to the Fiddlers.
Entertaining the patients at Sequim Health and Rehabilitation are, from left, Steve Sahnow, harmonica; Vern Sprague, banjo; and Jack Reagan, guitar. The three are members of the Old Time Fiddlers and often take their talents to schools, assisted living facilities and dozens of venues throughout Sequim and Port Townsend.
30 LOP Summer 2016
The difference between a violin and a fiddle? A violin sings, a fiddle dances. — Source unknown
“Everyone of all ages and stages is welcome,” said Van Ruhan. McKasson is right. Old-time fiddling music does bring a smile to your face. I know it put one on mine. One last thought. While gathering information and interviews for this story, I mistakenly let slip that I once played the violin, albeit classical violin. Big mistake. Nearly everyone I spoke with wanted me to take up fiddling. Frankly, I’m not sure I have the energy for it, nor the finger dexterity fiddling takes. It looks much more difficult than playing Beethoven, so don’t look for me at the jamming sessions or concerts in the new future. Well, maybe.
The Fiddlers are a close-knit group, everyone knowing everyone else. The younger set took advantage of a break in the action and merrily set off for Port Townsend shopping. Everyone was back at the grange by 7 p.m., tuning instruments, deciding on which tunes would be on the docket and setting up for the day-ending contra dance. Contra dancing, in case you’ve never had the pleasure to attend a contra dance, is a little like square dancing, but the participants typically dance in a line instead of a square. However, it’s not line dancing per se. Everyone dances with everyone, changing partners throughout the dance and at the end of every dance. It’s a great way to meet like-minded folks who enjoy the music of the Old Time Fiddlers because there are lots of people to dance with even if you don’t have a partner. I hope this all makes sense. If not, there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy a contra dance at the Sequim and Port Townsend granges. Check the Sequim Od Time Fiddlers website for dates and times. The best part of the entire Old Time Fiddlers gamut, including the dances, is the tremendous camaraderie that exists within the organization. And it spreads to those who come to listen, toe-tap, whirl around the dance floor or perhaps try a hand at the fiddle, banjo, harmonica or guitar. Above: Violin or fiddle? Some think they are two distinctly different instruments, but it’s really the same instrument, just different kinds of music. Violin is typically for classical and jazz, while fiddle is for folk, country and bluegrass. Right: Cathy Van Ruhan fiddles out a tune at the workshop held in April in Port Townsend. Van Ruhan is the publicity chair of the Washington Old Time Fiddlers group in Sequim and Port Townsend. She has been part of the group for four years and only began playing the fiddle during that time.
WHAT, WHEN, WHERE
District 15, Washington Old Time Fiddlers of Clallam and Jefferson counties, is part of the Washington Old Time Fiddlers Association. Meeting dates are the second and fourth Saturdays of the month, January-June and September-November. Second Saturday jamming and performance meetings are held at the Sequim Prairie Grange, 290 Macleay Road. Fourth Saturday jamming sessions are held at the Quimper Grange, 1219 Corona St., Port Townsend. Small home groups meet weekly to learn and practice tunes. For more information about District 15 Old Time Fiddlers, visit d15.wotfa.org.
Summer 2016 LOP 31
SUMMER 2016 CALENDAR OF EVENTS JUNE PORT TOWNSEND & JEFFERSON COUNTY • Chimacum Farmers Market, Chimacum Corner Farmstand, every Sunday, mid-May through October. • Port Townsend Farmers Market, Lawrence and Tyler streets, Saturdays, May to December, Wednesdays, June to September. • Port Townsend Gallery Walk, first Saturday each month. • Quilcene First Saturday Art Walk, 360-765-0200. 33rd annual Classic Mariner’s Regatta and Rendezvous, Port Townsend Bay, June 3-5. • Steampunk Fest, downtown, June 10-13. • Secret Garden Tour, Master Gardeners, June 18. • Taste of Port Townsend, multiple venues, June 9. • Annual Longest Day of Trails, Larry Scott Trail, • Port Townsend, June 22. • Rat Island Race, Fort Worden State Park Kitchen Shelter, June 25. • Port Townsend Summer Band Concert, Chetzemoka Park, June 26. • Rakers Car Show, Memorial Field, June 18. SEQUIM & DUNGENESS VALLEY • Sequim Farmers Market, Centennial Place, every Saturday through October. • First Friday Art Walk and Reception, multiple venues. • North Olympic Discovery Marathon and Half Marathon,from Sequim to Port Angeles, June 4-5. Sequim City Band, James Center for the Performing Arts, June 12. • Hurricane Ridge Kennel Club, agility rally, Carrie Blake Park, June 3-5. • Dyefeltorspin, Happy Valley Alpaca Ranch, June 11-12. PORT ANGELES • Port Angeles Farmers Market, The Gateway, 125 E. Front St., Saturday mornings. • North Olympic Discovery Marathon and HalfMarathon, from Blyn to Port Angeles, June 4-5. • Smoked Salmon Slowpitch Softball Tournament, June 4-5. • Petals and Pathways Home Garden Tour, various locations, www.mfg-clallam.org, June 25. • Second Weekend Art Walk, Downtown Port
Angeles, second Friday of every month. • Concerts on the Pier, Wednesdays starting June 22. FORKS/WEST END • Forks Open Aire Market, 1421 S. Forks Ave., Saturdays. • Forks Logging and Mill Tour, Wednesdays, visit www.forkswa.com. • West End Thunder, Forks Municipal Airport, June 18-19. • Fourth annual Tod Horton Memorial Co-ed Softball, Tillicum Park, Forks, June 18-19. NORTH/WEST COAST • Sekiu Unlimited Halibut Derby, June TBA.
JULY PORT TOWNSEND & JEFFERSON COUNTY • Chimacum Farmers Market, Chimacum Corner Farmstand, every Sunday, mid May through October. • Port Townsend Farmers Market, Lawrence and Tyler streets, Saturdays, May to December, Wednesdays, June to September. • Port Ludlow Farmers Market, Village Center, Fridays through September. • The Festival of American Fiddle Tunes, Fort Worden State Park, July 3-10. • Port Townsend Writers Retreat, Centrum, Fort Worden State Park, July 14-17. • Concerts on the Dock, Pope Marine Plaza, downtown • Port Townsend, every Thursday evening, July 14Sept. 1. • Port Townsend Gallery Walk, first Saturday each month. • Quilcene First Saturday Art Walk. • Fiddlin’ on the Fourth, McCurdy Pavilion, Fort Worden, July 4. • Fourth of July Celebration, Fort Worden State Park. • Independence Day Concert, Port Townsend American Legion Hall, July 4. • Fiddle Grand Finale, McCurdy Pavilion, Fort Worden State Park, July 8-9. • Olympic Music Festival, Wheeler Theater, Fort Worden State Park, July 16-17. • Port Townsend Summer Band Concert,
Chetzemoka Park, July 31. • Protection Island Puffin Cruises, phone 360-3855582 Ext. 104, July 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30. • Jazz Port Townsend, Centrum, Fort Worden State Park, July 24-31. • Jazz in the Clubs, multiple venues, July 28-30. Relay for Life, Memorial Field, July 16-17. • Port Ludlow Festival by the Bay, July 29-31. • Port Townsend Acoustic Blues Festival, Fort Worden State Park, July 31-Aug. 7. • Annual West Coast Wooden Kayak Rendezvous, Fort Worden State Park, Port Townsend, July 29-31. SEQUIM & DUNGENESS VALLEY • Sequim Farmers Market, Centennial Place, every Saturday through October. • First Friday Art Walk and Reception, multiple venues. • July 4th Concert in the Park, Sequim City Band, James Center for the Performing Arts at Carrie Blake Park. • Annual Sequim Lavender Weekend, July 15-17. • Hurricane Ridge Kennel Club All Breed Dog Show, Carrie Blake Park, July 29-31. • Art Jam, July 15-17, 505 E. Silberhorn Road, Sequim. • Strait Stamp Show, Masonic Lodge, Seventh Avenue and Pine Street, July 30. PORT ANGELES • Port Angeles Farmers Market, The Gateway, 125 E. Front St., Saturday mornings. • Concerts on the Pier, each Wednesday evening at Port Angeles City Pier. • Fourth of July Celebration, downtown parade, music, food and fireworks at City Pier and Hollywood Beach, July 4. • Old-Timers Car Show, Port Angeles downtown, July 8. • Wilder Firecracker Baseball Tournament, June 30-July 3 • American Sprint Boat Racing Run Amok, Extreme Sports Park, July 9. • American Cancer Society Relay For Life, Clallam County Fairgrounds, July 22-23. • American Sprint Boat Racing, Extreme Sports Park, July 30.
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FORKS/WEST END • Forks Open Aire Market, 1421 S. Forks Ave., Saturdays. • Forks Logging and Mill Tour, Wednesdays, visit forkswa.com. • Forks Old-Fashioned 4th of July, July 1-4. • West End Thunder, Forks Municipal Airport, July 16-17. • Quileute Days, La Push, July 15-17. • Fred Orr Scholarship Co-ed Softball Tourney, July 30-31. NORTH/WEST COAST • Clallam-Sekiu Fun Days, July 8-10.
AUGUST PORT TOWNSEND & JEFFERSON COUNTY • Annual West Coast Wooden Kayak Rendezvous, Fort Worden State Park, Port Townsend, Aug. 6-7. • Port Townsend Arts Guild annual Uptown Street Fair, Tyler and Lawrence streets, Aug. 20. • Concerts on the Dock, Pope Marine Plaza, downtown Port Townsend, every Thursday evening. • Port Townsend Summer Band Concert, Chetzemoka Park, Aug. 20. • Chimacum Farmers Market, Chimacum Corner Farmstand, every Sunday, mid-May through October. • Port Townsend Farmers Market, Lawrence and Tyler streets, Saturdays May to December, Wednesdays June through September. • Port Ludlow Farmers Market, Village Center, Fridays through September. • Port Townsend Gallery Walk, first Saturday
each month. • Quilcene First Saturday Art Walk. • Quilcene Museum Wine Tasting Gala Event, Center Valley Road and Columbia Street, Aug. 12. • Olympic Music Festival, Wheeler Theater, Fort Worden State Park, weekends Aug. 13-Sept 11. • Port Townsend Summer Band, Chetzemoka Park, Aug. 28. • Blues in the Clubs, multiple venues in Port Townsend, Aug 5-6. • Acoustic Blues Showcase, McCurdy Pavilion, Fort Worden State Park, Aug. 5-6. • Jefferson County Fair, at Jefferson County Fairgrounds, Aug. 12-14. • Protection Island Puffin Cruises, phone 360-3855582 Ext. 104, Aug. 6, 13. • National Park Free Admission Day, Aug. 25-28. • All-Quilcene Yard Sale, Aug. 27. SEQUIM & DUNGENESS VALLEY • First Friday Art Walk and Reception, multiple venues. • Sequim Farmers Market, Centennial Place, every Saturday through October. • Sequim City Band, James Center for the Performing Arts, Aug. 7. • Tour de Lavender bike ride, Aug. 6-7. • Relay for Life, Sequim High School, Aug. 13. • National Park Free Admission Day, Aug. 25-28. • Olympic Peninsula Air Affaire, Sequim Valley Airport, Aug. 27-28. PORT ANGELES • Port Angeles Farmers Market, The Gateway, 125 E.
Front St., Saturday mornings.
• Concerts on the Pier, Wednesday evenings at
City Pier. • Ride the Hurricane, bicycle to Hurricane Ridge, Aug. 1. • Joyce Daze Wild Blackberry Festival, Joyce, Aug. 6. • Clallam County Fair, Clallam County Fairgrounds, Port Angeles, Aug. 18-21. • Still Playin’, Softball Tournament, multiple venues, Aug. 20-21. • National Park Free Admission Day, Aug. 25-28. • Paint the Peninsula, Port Angeles Fine Arts Center, Aug. 21-28. FORKS/WEST END • Forks Open Aire Market, 1421 S. Forks Ave., Saturdays. • Forks Logging and Mill Tour, Wednesdays, visit forkswa.com. • Rainforest Run, Tillicum Park, Forks, motorcycles, Aug. 19-21. • West End Thunder, Forks Municipal Airport, Aug. 20-21. • Hot Thunder Night, Forks Municipal Airport, Aug. 27. • American Cancer Society Relay For Life, Forks High School, Aug. 5-6. • National Park Service Free Admission Day, Aug. 25-28. NORTH/WEST COAST • Makah Days, Neah Bay, Aug. 26-28.
• Drop Boxes • Recycling Demolition Boxes • Construction Debris Boxes • Residential & Commercial Refuse Service • Residential & Commercial Recycling Service
Phone: Clallam Co. 452-7278 • Jefferson Co. 385-6612 2058 W. Edgewood Dr. • Port Angeles
Summer 2016 LOP 33
Opening day of the new visitor center July 1, 2015. Photo courtesy of Hoh Park Ranger John Preston
New and improved Hoh visitor center Story and photos by Christi Baron The Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center is about 31 miles south of Forks off of U.S. Highway 101 at the end of the Upper Hoh Road. Site staff provide visitors with information and exhibits about the Olympic Peninsula’s west side, including the park’s coastal and rain forest areas. Originally built in 1963, the center has undergone an extensive renovation. The work included renovating and expanding the existing center and restrooms, modifying the building for wheelchair accessibility and installing a new roof.
34 LOP Summer 2016
It re-opened to visitors on July 1, 2015. The original visitor center was dedicated Aug. 29, 1964, with an informal ceremony at the Campfire Circle. Regional director Edward A. Hummel, of the western region of the National Park Service, presented the dedication address after brief remarks from other officials of the federal, state, county and neighboring city governments. By the time of the official dedication, thousands of visitors already had been using the facilities. The project was part of the MISSION 66 project in Olympic National Park.
The new visitor center building was the focal point for information on the rain forest. Attractive exhibits provided the background information on the rain forest and drew visitors’ attention to features which could be seen along the nature trail in the Hoh Valley. In addition to the new center, the road had been paved from the entrance road to the park boundary; a large central parking area was created; a ranger’s residence was added as well as apartments and a dormitory; a barn, corral and the necessary supporting utilities for the area also were added.
ONPâ€™s Hoh Rain Forest not only serves as a destination for tourists it also has its scientific realm. Once a week for the past 10 years Ranger Jon Preston has gathered a sample of rainwater in the Hoh Rain Forest area of Olympic National Park for the Atmospheric Deposition Program. This ONP site consistently records the cleanest air in the continental U.S, another good reason to visit the rain forest and breathe!
At the time, it was noted that travel up the Hoh Valley had increased from 20,000 visits in 1955 to a record of 111,794 visits in 1962. Olympic National Park continues to be one of most-visited parks in the country, drawing over 3 million visitors in 2015. The contract to renovate the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center was awarded to Tactical Constructors Corp. and NLC General Inc., Joint Venture of Fife. The contract amount was $1.14 million and work began in the fall of 2014. The new and improved visitor center still holds onto one item from the old visitor center and that is the clear cedar paneling that was milled at the long-gone Rosmond Mill that was located in Forks at the time of the original construction of the building.
Sword ferns line the trail and millions of hues of green are visible as far as the eye can see. This trail is a perfect introduction to the Hoh Rain Forest, but donâ€™t stop here; it gets better! There are two short nature loops that start near the center: the 0.8-mile Hall of Mosses Trail and the 1.2-mile Spruce Nature Trail, both leading through the temperate rain forest. The 17.3mile Hoh River Trail starts near the center and leads hikers to Blue Glacier. There is an 88-site campground near the center as well. Receiving 12 to 14 feet of rain per year, the Hoh Rain Forest is one of the best examples of temperate rain forest in the world. The Hoh visitor center is open daily from 9 a.m.-5 p.m. throughout the summer.
HALL OF MOSSES
After stopping at the new visitor center, be sure to take a stroll around the Hall of Mosses Trail. At a little under a mile long, this loop trail is a must-walk experience. Here you will see huge nurse logs, moss-filled streams and giant maple, fir and cedar trees.
Right: The phone booth when it was at the Hoh Visitor Center now makes its home at the Forks Visitor Center.
Summer 2016 LOP 35
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M.A., CCC-A, a Certified Clinical Audiologist and a licensed hearing aid dispenser, opened The Hearing Advantage in 1990 to provide the finest quality hearing aids and services to the Olympic Peninsula. The Hearing Advantage specializes in the newest technology in Scott John Raszler, M.A., CCC-A hearing aids, including new digital instruments. The Hearing Advantage provides complete hearing evaluations, hearing aid sales, repairs, batteries and accessories. If anyone has a hearing problem, call The Hearing Advantage for the best in professional hearing healthcare.
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Time for a “tune-up” at Sequim Health & Rehab with our outpatient therapies. You know you shouldn’t be chasing your grandchildren around the slippery pool area, but if you do, and injure yourself, Sequim Health & Rehab is ready to help you get back to the pool with our seven-day-a-week therapy department.
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650 W. Hemlock St., Sequim • 360.582.2400 www.sequimskillednursing.com
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www.billmairheating.com (360) 683-4245 Summer 2016 LOP 37
A channel of the Hoh River courses briskly over stones on the Spruce Nature Trail. Photo by Leif Nesheim
Olympic national Park A hiker’s par adise Story and photos by Michael Dashiell Does it really get any better than this? The majestic Pacific Ocean, grand waterways of the Salish Sea, one of the largest temperate rain forests in the nation, three distinct ecosystems and dozens of trails — and hundreds of variations off those trails — from which to enjoy these riches … not bad at all. Our peninsula has been home to Olympic National Park since President Franklin Roosevelt designated it as such in 1938 and I’ve been kicking up dirt on park trails since I was a preteen, but each time I make a trek — be it a short day hike or longer excursion — it all feels new and wonderful and exotic. Still, somehow, it becomes a bit easy to forget this 922,000-acre treasure is in our own backyard. If you’re a newbie or an occasional hiker who wants to get back on the ONP trails this summer, getting started is easy and a great place to start is (ironically) at your computer. The park’s website (www.nps.gov/olym) is a launching pad for any kind of trip. Click on the “Plan Your Visit” menu and get basic information such as trail/ road conditions, trail guides and maps, fees, operating hours, safety guidelines, news about park programs, flora and fauna facts and even trip itinerary suggestions. The park trail system is, for the most part, divided into five sections: the Staircase/ Dosewallips trails, Hurricane/Elwha trails, Quinault/Queets trails, Hoh/Bogachiel/Sol Duc trails and Pacific Coast routes.
38 LOP Summer 2016
The Klahhane Ridge Trail is shrouded in mist this mid-summer afternoon.
Hiking into the fog along the Klahhane Ridge Trail.
THE 10 ESSENTIALS Be it a short day hike, a day-long trek or multi-day journey into the interior of Olympic National Park, never forget to bring a hiker’s 10 essentials: 2 Extra warm-when-wet clothing 2 Extra food and water 2 Topographic map of area 2 Compass 2 Flashlight (with extra batteries) 2 Sunglasses and sunscreen 2 Pocket knife 2 Matches in waterproof container 2 Candle or fire starter 2 First aid kit Along with the 10 hiking essentials (see box), I always have a good hiking book (I prefer the Mountaineers Books’ “Olympic Mountains Trail Guide, 3rd Edition” by Robert Wood) and a specific trail map (National Geographic actually makes pretty decent waterproof pocket ones, available at several local shops). Here are some of the park’s best-loved trails, from my own favorites list and fellow Olympic National Park adorers:
Distance: 3.2 miles roundtrip The skinny: Views atop Hurricane Ridge simply can’t be beat, with on a clear day visions of Canada to the north and the full majesty of the Olympic Mountains in panorama. Seen it before? Change it up and hike up Klahhane Ridge running nearly parallel with Hurricane Ridge Road.
SOL DUC FALLS So many trails with beautiful views await Olympic National Park visitors.
Distance: 1.6 miles The skinny: For more adventuresome hikers, this trail is the starting point for the 7 Lakes Basin trek, but for others it’s a relatively quick jaunt to some breathtaking scenery at the falls themselves.
LA PUSH BEACH TRAILS
Distance: 1.4 miles roundtrip The skinny: Rialto, First, Second or Third Beach … which to choose? From La Push, it’s an easy trek to any of these amazing beaches. Check out the sea stacks and tidepools as you meander along some of the best sandy beaches the Peninsula offers. It’s often fairly windy, so layer up even in the warmest summer months. With water enthusiasts taking to the more southern beaches in sizable numbers in the summer, Rialto Beach may be your best bet for a quieter beach hike.
Summer 2016 LOP 39
MOUNT STORM KING TRAIL
Distance: 3.4 miles roundtrip The skinny: Get an eagle’s eye view of Lake Crescent and nearby monuments like Pyramid Peak atop this impressive albeit sometimes strenuous hike. Plenty of switchbacks in this alpine hike may seem at first a like an awful lot of effort for little payoff … until it does. Not to be missed.
SPRUCE RAILROAD TRAIL
Distance: 4 miles each way; plus 3-mile roundtrip trek to North Shore Recreation Area. The skinny: Following the former Port Angeles Western Railroad grade along the north shore of Lake Crescent, this is a nice, flat hike for shortand medium-length day hikes. Check out the remnants of a railroad tunnel, the Devils Punch Bowl bridge and Harrigan Point. The trail leaves from the East Beach trailhead and continues along the shores of Lake Crescent for about four miles before it starts climbing gently toward the top of Fairholm Hill.
LAKE OF THE ANGELS
Spruce and hemlock trees straddle the remains of a nurse log, a fallen tree that provided a home for young seedlings before rotting away. Their roots now reach the ground beside the Spruce Nature Trail. Photo by Leif Nesheim
Distance: 8 miles roundtrip The skinny: This is a steep hike, so be ready to work — though it’s worth it. The lake is nearly 5,000 feet above the Hamma Hamma River, where you will find smoothed-out boulders.
LAKE ANGELES TRAIL
Distance: 3.5 miles (Heart O’ the Hills to lake), 6.4 miles (to Klahhane Ridge) The skinny: Not to be confused with Lake of the Angels, the Lake Angeles Trail has two points
OLYMPIC BY THE NUMBERS 2 922,651 acres 2 876,669 acres (95 percent of the
park) are Congressionally designated wilderness 2 73 miles of wilderness coast 2 3,000+ miles of rivers and streams 2 60 named glaciers 2 1,200+ native plant taxa 2 16 kinds of endemic animals 2 8 kinds of endemic plants 2 20 reptile and amphibian species 2 37 native fish species 2 300 bird species 2 56 mammal species, including 24 marine mammal species 2 22 species listed as Threatened or Endangered under the Endangered Species Act 2 1 National Natural Landmark (Point of Arches) 2 50-70 research permits issues annually — Source: Olympic National Park
40 LOP Summer 2016
Above: Lake Angeles appears out of the mist. Right: A green canopy covers much of the Spruce Railroad Trail. of entry, from nearly atop Hurricane Ridge (the trailhead is about 4.5 miles short of the ridge’s visitors center, right off of Hurricane Ridge Road) and from the base of the ridge’s entry at Heart O’ the Hills trailhead and campground. Hike the full 6-plus-mile roundtrip or find a hiking partner to start from the other starting point and trade keys at the midway point at the lake itself.
UPPER GRAY WOLF RIVER TRAIL
Distance: 11.5 miles (one-way) The skinny: For sheer distance alone, this is a strenuous hike but a decent one for Sequim-area outdoor enthusiasts, as it has easy year-round access from the Slab Camp Trailhead. This is one of the top river hikes in the park, with blue-green hues in the river from minerals in glacial till brought down from Olympics.
THE HOH RIVER TRAIL
Distance: Varies (17.4 miles to Glacier Meadows) The skinny: You want to get wet? You got it. This area is rainy year-round. If you are up for it, trek the entire trail to get views of Mount Olympus and Blue Glacier. The first 13 miles are flat, but then be ready for a climb up into Glacier Meadows.
NOW & THEN
photo by Patricia Morrison Coate
Stone Family Farm today retains much of its original appearance from 105 years ago. Photo courtesy of the Stone Family Collection
This house, built by Leroy and Emma Stone in 1911 on Port Williams Road, remained in the Stone family for more than 100 years. Recently, the property was sold to another pioneer family.
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Leroy and Emma Stone purchased 40 acres from the Meyers family in 1905. The Stones began building their home, now at 301 Port Williams Road in Sequim, in January 1911. Their only child Stacy was born in the new house on Nov. 11, 1911, during a blinding snow storm. Since the hired man refused to go to town to bring back the doctor and since the Stones didn’t want him to quit, a home birth took place. Many of the Jersey cows raised on the farm were the highest butterfat producers on the Sequim prairie. In 1914, much of the herd was sold so the family could travel to Michigan to visit relatives in their new mid-teens Buick touring car. They continued on their long trip with a tour of Washington, D.C., before returning to Sequim. After farming for three years, the “open road” again called, so off to California they went, where son Stacy began first grade. They returned to Sequim in time for him to finish the school year. When Stacy married Margaret Hendricks in 1931, they moved into the beautiful old home, while LeRoy and Emma relocated to a smaller house on the property. The Port Williams Road historical site then became home to a new generation of the Stone family. Margaret, Gail and Gregg were raised on the farm with the cows in the backyard again. The property recently was sold to other pioneer farmers after 104 years in the Stone family.
Products, services and ideas from across the Olympic Peninsula.
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Summer 2016 LOP 41
Walking with John Muir By the Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith On the Olympic Peninsula, we are blessed with mountains, forests and lakes enlivened with flora and wildlife that fascinate. How perfect that the very heart of this land is a national park of pristine, protected nature for this is a place where getting out into nature is celebrated. To remain indoors is to miss the call of Spirit all around. To stay in a life of only mundane tasks when a world of natural delights calls is to sit in a darkened room with the light off. As our days lengthen into beautiful Northwest summer days, step outside and open your heart. From the heights of Hurricane Ridge with its expansive views of sky and sea to the clear glacial waters of Lake Crescent reflecting back the light of the sun to the breathtaking waterfalls at Sol Doc whose mists seem to embrace one to the ancient trees amid dense ferns found in the depths of the Hoh Rain Forest … all of it reminds us what a treasure this national park is and invites each to personally enter into its wonders.
“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.” This invitation comes from John Muir who has been called the father of our national parks and was the founder of the Sierra Club. His life was dedicated to encountering nature with a sense of wonder, awe and gratitude reminding us we are part of a far greater living whole. We are part of a cosmic ecosystem, and the more we can engage it with body, mind, heart and soul, the more we can experience life’s riches and blessings. Through his life’s work, Muir expanded our consciousness and encouraged us to unite in preserving our natural world. He reminded us
42 LOP Summer 2016
how much difference one person can make who has a dedicated vision for highest and best for all. It was he who invited Teddy Roosevelt out into nature to go camping to show him the need to preserve our country’s pristine mountains, woodlands and shores. From this encounter, the National Park System was born in 1916 and Yosemite National Park became the first of many designated treasures we cherish to this day. “Keep close to Nature’s heart … and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.” Muir also has been called “The Wilderness Prophet” through his inspiring reminders that we are human beings and not human doings. Our modern culture is far too disconnected from the natural world much of the time. We are so busy doing that we forget to just be. We are meant to abide in the beauty of our environment and be nourished by Mother Earth upon which we walk. In the Hebrew Bible, the world is created and man “given dominion” over nature. The traditional understanding is that we have power over, but nothing could be further from the truth. The original Hebrew word was “to be entrusted with,” not to rule over. Muir was truly a prophet calling us back to essential truth and enriched life. Blending earth and spirit into their original oneness with us as caregivers rather than caretakers. It is intimate as so beautifully expressed by Muir …
“With inexpressible delight you wade out into the grassy sun-lake, feeling yourself contained on one of Nature’s most sacred chambers, withdrawn from the sterner influences of the mountains, secure from all intrusion, secure from yourself, free in the
universal beauty. And notwithstanding the scene is so impressively spiritual, and you seem dissolved in it yet everything about you is beating with warm, terrestrial human love, delightfully substantial and familiar.” It is cosmic as he also reminds us … “When we contemplate the whole globe as one great dewdrop, striped and dotted with continents and islands, flying through space with other stars all singing and shining together as one, the whole universe appears as an infinite storm of beauty.” Now follow in the footsteps of this inspiring lover of nature, dance to the rhythms of life he celebrated and reach wide in openness to experience it all yourself. In a conscious union with nature you can embrace the beauty of creation that will restore your soul, renew our planet and rededicate us all to a Oneness with all that is. The Rev. Pam DouglasSmith is the minister at the Unity Spiritual Enrichment Center in Port Townsend who leads international spiritual pilgrimages. Contact her at email@example.com.
Graysmarsh Farm JUNE STRAWBERRIES SWEET ONIONS
HO RD .
AUGUST BLACKBERRIES CORN
You Pick or We Pick Berries and Lavender
RASPBERRIES LOGANBERRIES BOYSENBERRIES BLUEBERRIES BLACKBERRIES
TO PORT ANGELES
- DUNGENESS WAY
I QU SE
OLD OLYMPIC HIGHWAY
JUNE-SEPTEMBER FRESH LAVENDER, BUDS, OIL & PLANTS
Be sure to visit the farm during Lavender Festival in July
6187 Woodcock Road, Sequim • 360-683-5563 • www.graysmarsh.com
Jefferson Solar Tour & Electric Vehicle Round-up
Kick‐oﬀ Loca�on: Power Trip Energy, 83 Denny Ave, Port Townsend, Have you considered solar power for your home or business?
Learn about what solar can do for your home or business by attending our FREE “Grid‐tied Solar 101” seminar. Then take a tour of local homes, meet our customers and see what it looks like to have Solar PV Power on your home!
10am‐11am ‐ “Grid‐tied Solar 101” Seminar 11am‐3pm‐ Solar Homes Open for Touring
Power Trip Energy Corp
**Maps will be provided at kick off location**
83 Denny Ave, Port Townsend, WA
WA Lic# POWERTE964JN & POWERTE934QE
Staff will be available for questions
Summer 2016 LOP 43
you deserve great care. both of you. We’ve known some of our patients since the day they were born. Others we’ve known for years. With 25 primary care providers we’re giving our neighbors in Port Townsend, Quilcene and Port Ludlow more options than ever. And it’s right here at home. Find out more at jeffersonhealthcare.org
PRIMARY CARE CLINIC Port Townsend 360-385-4848
MADRONA FAMILY MEDICINE Port Townsend 360-385-5388
FAMILY MEDICINE Port Townsend 360-385-3500
PORT LUDLOW CLINIC Port Ludlow 360-437-5067
WALK IN CLINIC Port Townsend 360-379-0477
SOUTH COUNTY CLINIC Quilcene 360-765-3111