Seattle Weekly, April 09, 2014

SeattleWeekly’s 2014 DINING GUIDE

R e t i r o e v s a t a u F r ants r u O

VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2014 • SEATTLE WEEKLY

1

The Freshest Tastes of the Pike Place Market

• Mario Batali in GQ Magazine, March 2009 - “Go to Lowell’s for the Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict, Fresh Oyster-Bacon Scramble and Dungeness Crab Omelet!”

• Food Network’s Giada De Laurentils’ Weekend Getaways “...get breakfast from Lowell’s Restaurant & Bar serving dishes made only [from] foods from local venders from the Pike Place Market.”

• Travel + Leisure Magazine, July 2011 - featured in “100+ Amazing Places to Eat Like a Local” & “Best Waterfront Seafood Shacks”

Seattle’s best kept hideaway since the fifties...

Opening every day at 7AM, our 3 floors of panoramic water views and our unique fresh hand-crafted food and drinks are the authenticity of vintage Seattle with the friendliest bar included.

Lowell’s 1st floor entrance is located on the cobblestone street level, inside the main arcade, in the very HEART of Pike Place Market.

www.EatAtLowells.com

2 Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2014

S S M M O O K K E E D D

MEATS & SEAFOOD

S S II N NG G LL E E M MA A LL TT

WHISKEY & BEER

1 4 1 0 1 2 t h S E AT T L E , WA 9 8 1 2 2 O P E N D A I LY 5 P M - 2 A M | A G E S 2 1 + 206-557-7430

2 014 DINING GUIDE

P

utting together an annual dining guide in a city where new restaurants and bars (and bakeries and breweries and food trucks and, and, and) are opening at a dizzying pace is incredibly exciting—yet daunting. As I began thinking about how to sum it all up in these pages, it occurred to me that maybe the big picture really lies in the details. After all, a delicious meal, a charming restaurant, a sublime cocktail all come down to details, don’t they?

To that end, we’ve zeroed in on—deconstructed, if you will—some key aspects of the dining scene. We’ve talked to five chefs not about their grand vision or even their favorite dish, but rather about a single, out-of-the-box ingredient they’re particularly passionate about (including one that was transported from Vietnam and is currently growing in a jar in a very dark room). We teamed with Seattle architects to give you an insider’s look at just what goes into creating a great dining space, with lots of fascinating anecdotes about local restaurants they’ve designed. We’ve also honed in on a style of wine that’s making its way onto many a Seattle drink menu, one that’s truly a sum of its parts. And of course, there’s our list of more than 100 favorite local restaurants—a gargantuan feat by our food contributors, and Seattle Weekly staff that means not every place we like makes the cut. With so many new establishments opening since last year’s guide, we simply had to let go of some. So though you won’t see some standard-bearers like, say, Canlis or Dahlia Lounge here, it’s not because their chefs aren’t holding the bar high (they are); we just needed to spread the love.

I hope this guide will surprise and delight you—and most important, inspire you to get out there and eat!

Food & Drink Editor Nicole Sprinkle Art Director Karen Steichen Contributors Mark Baumgarten, Sara Billups, Gavin Borchert, Gwendolyn Elliott, Jay Friedman, Zach Geballe, Megan Hill, Tiffany Ran, Kelton Sears, Nina Shapiro Photography Joshua Bessex & Kyu Han

Cheers, Nicole Sprinkle Food & Drink Editor, Seattle Weekly

Cover Illustration Dan Stiles

Your table awaits Urbane is inspired by the sustainable LEED certified building in which we are housed. Our regional menu is created from the ground up as we strive to bring you the best of the Northwest’s harvest prepared in an urban setting. Working with local growers, artisians, and wineries of the Pacific Northwest, our menu changes seasonally to focus on freshness and local authenticity.

Located a block from the Paramount and Nordstrom, Urbane is well situated to be the prelude and finale to your shopping or theater experience. Stop by today for a true taste of the Northwest.

© 2014 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved. The ‘LEED Certification Mark’ is a registered trademark owned by the U.S. Green Building Council and is used by permission.

4 WEEKLY • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 4 SEATTLE Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 20142014

O ur Favorite Restaurants Table of Contents

Editor’s Note....Page 4

Five Local Chefs, Five Unique Ingredients....Page 7 Trend of the Blend....Page 19 Making a Restaurant....Page 21 Our Favorite Places to Eat and Drink....Page 31

NEIGHBORHOOD INDEX NORTH OF 50TH (PHINNEY, RAVENNA, GREEN LAKE, GREENWOOD, LAKE CITY, SHORELINE, TANGLETOWN) Kisaku 49 mkt. 45 Mojitos 43 Thrive 49 BALLARD Bastille Cafe & Bar 41 Brimmer & Heeltap 45 Delancey 46 Golden Beetle 41 Hilliard’s 39 Senor Moose Café 43 Skillet 39 Stoneburner 46 Veraci Pizza 47 The Walrus and the Carpenter 47 FREMONT/WALLINGFORD/U DISTRICT Agrodolce 41 Art of the Table 43 Atlantic Crossing 38 Bourbon & Bones 47 Canon 38 Chaco Canyon 49 Din Tai Fung 31 Fremont Brewing Company 39 Joule 31 Le Petit Cochon 45 Paseo 43 Revel 33 Rock Creek 47 Roux 40 Sunlight Café 49 Tilth 46 Vif Wine & Coffee 39 MAGNOLIA Tanglewood Supreme 47 QUEEN ANNE Byen Bakeri 38 How to Cook a Wolf 41 LloydMartin 45 Mezcaleria Oaxaca 43 Rooftop Brewing 39 Toulouse Petit 40 EASTLAKE/LAKE UNION Blind Pig Bistro 45 Little Water Cantina 43 Louisa’s 39 Sushi Kappo Tamura 49 Westward 47 SOUTH LAKE UNION Serious Pie 47 CAPITOL HILL Ba Bar 31 Bar Cotto 46 Crumble & Flake Patisserie 38 Honey Hole 49 Jamjuree 31 La Bête 45 Linda’s 39 Mamnoon 41 Plum Bistro 49

Poppy 33 Spinasse 41 Sun Liquor 38 Volunteer Park Café 46 The Wandering Goose 49 MADISON VALLEY/MADRONA/CENTRAL DISTRICT Chef Café 41 Ezell’s Chicken 47 Hi Spot Café 40 Luc 41 Twilight Exit 39 DOWNTOWN/BELLTOWN Boat Street Café and Kitchen 40 Le Pichet 41 Matt’s in the Market 45 Miller’s Guild 45 Nijo Sushi Bar & Grill 49 Queen City Grill 46 Radiator Whiskey 46 Rob Roy 38 Shiro’s 49 Spur 46 Tilikum Place Cafe 39 Zig Zag Café 39 PIONEER SQUARE Altstadt 38 Bar Sajor 43 E. Smith Mercantile 38 Il Corvo 41 Little Uncle 33 Marcela’s Creole Cookery 40 New Orleans Creole Restaurant 40 INTERNATIONAL DISTRICT Boiling Point 31 Fuji Bakery 38 Huong Binh 31 Northwest Tofu 33 Standard Brewing 39 Uway Malatang 33 SOUTH OF DOWNTOWN (GEORGETOWN, COLUMBIA CITY, SODO, BEACON HILL) Columbia City Bakery 38 Epic Ales 39 Fonda La Catrina 43 Traveler’s Thali House 49 World Pizza 47 WEST SEATTLE/ALKI BEACH Bakery Nouveau 38 Marination Ma Kai 33 Mashiko 49 THE OUTSKIRTS Hitchcock, Bainbridge Island 45 Bamboo Garden, Bellevue 31 Noodle Boat, Issaquah 33 Prima Bistro, Whidbey Island 46 FOOD TRUCKS El Camion 40 Maximus/Minimus 40 Narwhal 40 Off the Rez 40

VORACIOUS 2014 •• SEATTLE Seattle Weekly VORACIOUSDINING DINING GUIDE GUIDE 2014 WEEKLY 55

DECONSTRUCTING DINING

5

Local Chefs, Five Unique Ingredients

N

ever before have chefs been so invested in every element of their plates.

With access to amazing, increasingly varied product, the proliferation of foraging, and an embrace of global flavors, every last ingredient in a dish is a force of its own. Here, five of Seattle’s favorite chefs share the ingredients they’re most excited about right now—from vinegar “mothers” brought back from Vietnam to a fish sauce that wars have been fought over. NICOLE SPRINKLE

PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

JASON WILSON, Chef/Partner of Crush and Miller’s Guild Jason Wilson is excited about crosnes (pronounced “crone”), which taste “almost like a sweet, radish-like turnip.” He first came across the tiny tubers at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, but hasn’t been able to find them locally—though that means he’s the only one in Seattle using the vegetable, which is native to Asia and kind of looks, perhaps unfortunately, like a cross between a chunk of ginger and a grub. In his restaurants, Wilson uses the ingredient in various ways, including slow-cooking them in butter and salt until tender, pickling crosnes, or even just eating them raw in their natural form, which he says is “delicious.” If you manage to get your hands on any of the unsung roots (they can be found online at earthlydelights.com), Wilson suggests frying them in tempura batter or adding them to soups, salads, and

Crosnes

vegetable dishes, as he’s done in the gorgeous dish pictured at top. “It’s a unique ingredient, and you can have fun finding uses for this uncommon root.” (Honest-food.net suggests sautéing them with peas, garlic, parsley, and lemon, and says to “look to the Chinese and French for inspiration,” as they are crosnes’ largest consumers.) 

VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014• SEATTLE • Seattle WEEKLY Weekly 7 VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE 7

DECONSTRUCTING DINING

MANHATTAN

southern inspired cuisine craft cocktail bar refined brunch

y

late night dining

“Gum um”

SAM CRANNELL, Chef/Owner of LloydMartin Over at the perpetually popular LloydMartin in Queen Anne, Crannell is currently playing around with golden needles, also known as “gum yum”—which are the unopened buds of a day lily. He was introduced to them by one of the restaurant’s “house” foragers from California.

What’s most appealing about the ingredient, according to Crannell, is that it’s “very exotic-smelling and tasting, and incredibly floral when it’s fresh-picked and used in a salad or sauté. But it is also really nice pickled. Most of its flower notes are tamed, and it lends a unique sweetness.” At LloydMartin, he pickles the flowers in ramp pickle liquid and uses them on crudo in fall and winter. “Then we use them fresh in late summer in salads with fresh-cut herbs,

located in capitol hill | www.manhattanseattle.com

HAPPY HOUR TWICE DAILY AND ALL DAY MONDAY

as a garnish for fish and shellfish, to infuse vegetable broths for soups, to make vinaigrettes for poultry, and for use in pestos and muddled in drinks.”

The ingredient is traditionally used in Chinese cooking, and dried versions of it (which can be reconstituted) can be found in the International District. If you want to try them at home, Crannell advises adding the needles to a stir fry, a salad, or a noodle soup, as a broth for fish, or in pesto. They’re also pretty easy to incorporate into salads.

PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

“Northwest and European flavors in an elegant old world style space on Capitol Hill with handcrafted cocktails, plus brunch on weekends.”

Above, the golden needles garnish a crudo.

Here, in pickled form.

New Hours: Kitchen opens Tuesday through Saturday: 5pm to 11pm Monday and Sunday 5pm to 10pm

Brunch available Saturday and Sunday 10am to 3pm.

1802 Bellevue Avenue (at Howell) • 206-329-4047 • www.labeteseattle.com VORACIOUSDINING DINING GUIDE GUIDE 2014 VORACIOUS 2014• •SEATTLE Seattle WEEKLY Weekly 99

10 Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2014

PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

DECONSTRUCTING DINING

an authentic italian café and roaster

Enjoy distinct espresso drinks and experience a true Italian café bar in the heart of Pioneer Square

Colatura

UniqUe coFFee blends availabe For home shoP online: www.caffeumbria.com

320 Occidental Avenue South | Seattle, Washington 98104 | (206) 624-5847

JASON STONEBURNER, Chef/Partner of Stoneburner and Executive Chef of Bastille Cafe & Bar Jason Stoneburner has been using colatura, an amber-colored anchovy extract made by fermenting anchovies, for years at home.

Packed with umami, it has a fish-forward flavor—in a good, oily fish-lover’s way.

While he didn’t feel like the ingredient made sense with the dishes at Bastille, when “I opened Stoneburner, which has Italian influences, the wheels started turning on how to heighten dishes with it. I like the

“It has this funky, briny note that contributes massive amounts of flavor without adding weight to the dish.”

Find Us Facebook: CU.CaffeUmbria | Twitter & Instagram: @caffeumbria

Above, the amber-colored sauce. Here, added to pasta and vegetable dishes at Stoneburner.

depth that it lends dishes. It has this rich, funky, briny note that contributes massive amounts of flavor without adding weight to the dish.” To that end, he uses it in various pasta dishes, vinaigrettes, and condiments.

The colatura-heightened condiments are usually spooned over grilled vegetables and meats. “Its history is really quite amazing; it dates back to ancient Rome, 3rd century B.C. Known as garum, it was reported to have divided social and economical classes based on its varying quality alone.” He says your best bet for finding it is at Marx Foods at 144 Western Ave W, and recommends the following preparations: heirloom tomatoes with olive oil, garlic, lime, and colatura; grilled asparagus or zucchini with olive oil, pistachio, lemon, mint, and colatura; or a simple pasta dish with olive oil, parsley, chili, garlic, and colatura.  VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014• SEATTLE • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 11 11

12 Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2014

DECONSTRUCTING DINING

MEANT TO BE ENJOYED

Vinegar “ others“ M

PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

ERIC BANH, Chef/Owner of Monsoon, Monsoon East and Ba Bar Banh is in the midst of a fascinating experiment: raising a few live vinegar “mothers” brought back from Vietnam by a friend. These slimy-looking things consist of acetic-acid bacteria and cellulose, which are a natural product of the vinegar-making process (like a mother yeast in bread). “Many families cultivated these vinegar ‘mothers’ back in

Based on a 100 year old family recipe Three generations of distilling passion Northwest born & bred

TATOOSHDISTILLERY.COM

Vietnam. In the old days in Saigon, you couldn’t just buy a jug of vinegar. You’d bring a small container to the grocery store, and the owner would give you a scoop or two from a jar,” says Banh. “As a kid in Vietnam, I raised one for fun. They kind of look like jellyfish. They start to move and grow, and you have to cover them in the summertime because they attract vinegar flies.” Of late, he’s had two of them floating in a glass jar in a warm, dark room for weeks—after having been drenched in pure coconut water.

Why go to the trouble? “So many cuisines use vinegar, yet no one puts much emphasis on it, or its quality. The flavor—which we refer to as tawa—is so much deeper, unlike regular distilled vinegar, which is sharp and too sour. I’ve been using champagne vinegar or Japanese rice wine in my restaurants as an alternative because they’re better quality, but they’re expensive. As far as I know, I’m the only chef in Seattle using these vinegar mothers.” What’s he doing with the first batch? “I’m just using them on salads to really showcase the flavor, since we won’t have enough to use in everything. Eventually, I’ll use them to pickle vegetables like mustard greens, carrots, daikons, and small green tomatoes. And we’ll use them in our nuoc cham, of course!” 

Recipes and traditions have been passed down through generations of families. Today, those tried and true family traditions live on in the Tatoosh Distillery products. Families were growing grain and making whiskey here before the states were states, and after years of having to hide from the law, Tatoosh is proud to finally be able to legally share the exceptional distilled spirits in the Pacific Northwest.

Banh, above, dressing this beautiful noodle bowl with his freshly made vinegar.

VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 13 13

NEW FRESH MENU MADE

MAR470AM14_AIRMEXICO_NYVillage_9x11.indd 1 14 Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2014

3/26/14 2:20 PM

PHOTOS BY KYU HAN

DECONSTRUCTING DINING

MEERU DHALWALA, Chef/Co-owner of Shanik Over in South Lake Union, Dhalwala is grinding bitter melon (also known as bitter gourd) into her own spice mixture, like a garam masala—or as she calls it, “a Meeru masala.” The chef grew up eating the melon in India, where it’s highly regarded for its health benefits: purifying the blood and helping to reduce blood-sugar levels. “Its bitterness is an acquired taste for non-Indians, but many Indians love to spice it up and enjoy its punch on the palate. In northern India we marinate it in salt to soften the flavor a bit, and then cook the bitter melon with lots of strong spices,” she says. “I grew up with a dad who loves strong, spicy, and bitter and a mom who loves spicy and soft. So for dinner we would often have lentil curry (soft) with spicy okra or bitter gourd (bitter). As a child I obviously liked the softer curries, but my parents always made us try a little of everything that was for dinner. As my palate matured, so did my love of the bitter touch within an overall soft meal.” Her masala is 80 percent ground bitter gourd with ground cumin and cayenne, which Above, bitter melon gets incorporated into an eggplant and paneer dish at Shanik. Here, the fresh gourd is used in a housemade spice mix.

she uses in all sorts of curries. “One popular dish is red bell peppers, eggplant, and paneer sautéed in tons of onions, tomatoes, and bittergourd masala.” While most Indian grocers carry frozen bitter gourd, Dhalwala says fresh is best. (I saw it fresh at Uwajimaya just last month.) E nsprinkle@seattleweekly.com

BitterMelon

VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 15 15

TasTing Room

Open 12-5 On SaturdayS 18646 142nd ave ne, WOOdinville, Wa 98072 www.jptrodden.com

WHAT’S IN YOUR GLASS?

Seattle is home to some of the nation’s top craft distillers. With so many great choices, let LikeYourLiquor.com help you find your craft spirit!

Craft liquor: The New American Dream, DistilledTM

masters Fremont

Wine & Whiskey Bar 100+ eclectic whiskeys • 150+ wines by the glass

Barrel-aged cocktails • Spirits flights Free party room • Weekend brunch

35th & Evanston • bthief.com

BOD_Gin_Weekly_3-31-14.pdf

of the mix C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

1

3/31/14

5:43 PM

206-397-3564 818 East Pike Street, Seattle, Wa 98122

4pm-2am Daily DRINK & DRAW

with Gage Academy Every 2nd Thursday 7-8:30 in conjunction with the Capitol Hill Arts Blitz Live model and Gage artist

ENTREMUNDOS World Music Jazz Jam Session every Monday night from 9:30-Midnight

Now serving BRUNCH: 10:00 am. - 2:00 p.m. Saturday & Sunday 100% gluten free kitchen with only fresh & local ingredients

Gameroom downstairs with full length shuffleboard and tons of boardgames!

20 rotating ciders on tap w/ 100’s in bottles as well as craft beer, full cocktail bar Cider | Beer | Wine | Cocktails | Gluten-Free

www.seattleciderbar.com 18 Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2014

Trend of the Blend

DECONSTRUCTING DINING

How to order these increasingly popular varietal mashups.

BY ZACH GEBALLE

A

Erica Orr, the “wine chemist” of Woodinville, is helping bring beautiful blends to the table.

“The added complexity in blends also makes them more versatile in food pairings.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYU HAN

mericans are slaves to our single-varietal red wines. Confronted by a blend, many of us run back to the wines we know: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and the like. Yet throughout much of the world, red wines are the product of two or more blended varietals. Increasingly, more Washington winemakers are going this route, and their wines are growing ever more common on local wine lists. Soon there will be nowhere to run to. With that in mind, here are some must-read tips and a little background to help you navigate the choices.

“The power of blends is for real,” says Woodinville winemaking consultant Erica Orr. “I think the blend is greater than the sum of its parts.” It’s definitely a fact (with a few rare exceptions) that wines made from multiple grapes tend to be more complex than those made from just one varietal.

But blending isn’t just about combining varietals. “Winemakers talk about blends from a varietal composition standpoint,” says Orr, “but also in terms of blending different ‘lots.’ The lot can be defined many ways: by vineyard, by clone, by how a vineyard parcel was fermented, if it was barrel-aged in new oak or neutral oak, how the barrels are toasted, etc.” The result is a blend that “is more interesting, more nuanced, and more delicious than just one of those parts.”

Generally speaking, blends fall into a couple of classic archetypes: Bordeaux blends emphasizing cabernet sauvignon and merlot, and southern Rhône blends that use grenache and syrah. Bordeaux blends are known for their beguiling combination of power and prettiness, tannic weight, and long aging potential. They also take very well to oak.

Rhône wines tend to be more about earthiness, savory notes, explosive fruit, and acidity.

Both have loyal followings—and a place on Seattle shelves and menus.

Of course, few Washington winemakers are content to stick with the tried-and-true blends that European winemakers have been making for centuries. With large amounts of both cabernet sauvignon and syrah planted in the state, it’s only natural that some winemakers have started combining them. “I’m thinking of Guardian’s Chalk Line or William Church 2 Spires,” Orr says. “The 2011 Callisto from Baer has 40 percent syrah in it.

These wines can be really approachable and delicious young; they have a dark blackberry/ black fruit character, a plushness from the syrah and a more high-toned, cherry-fruited, serious tannin structure from the cab.”

It’s that ease to drink young that drives some of the blends. According to Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen, head sommelier at RN74 and co-founder of WT Vintners, “Cabernet is king in Washington, even if syrah should be the star.” Yet cabernet sauvignon can be hard to drink in its youth: tannic, tight, and lack-

ing fruit. That’s why it’s classically blended with merlot in Bordeaux, and why cab/syrah blends are all the rage in Washington. They allow winemakers to get their wine on the market sooner while still offering a product that tastes good the moment the buyer gets the wine home. In fact, the combination of cabernet sauvignon with other varietals is considered by some local winemakers to be the future of the Washington wine industry.

Bottom line: Blends are definitely both a longstanding part of the winemaking world and something of a trend in Washington.

But how do you approach them at the dinner

table or in a restaurant? One thing to be wary of is that a poorly constructed blend can just kind of taste like “red wine.” That’s not necessarily bad, but it might be less exciting than a more well-defined wine. Another dirty secret of the winemaking trade is that blends can often be a dumping ground for lower-quality grapes. Sometimes blending lesser lots can save a wine, but sometimes the wines just taste flat and uninteresting.

That said, there are plenty of awesome blends to check out. Generally speaking, cabernet-heavy blends still need a bit of aging before they reach their true potential, while merlot- or syrah-based blends are ready to drink sooner. The added complexity in blends also makes them more versatile in food pairings: With a broader range of fruit and nonfruit characteristics, they “play nice” with more dishes. They do tend to be relatively heavy, but because of the broader range of fruits and the more complex structure, well-made red blends are often a nice compromise when you’re trying to please a lot of different types of wine drinkers. Almost everyone can find an aspect of the wine to love.

A couple of pieces of advice: In these rela-

tively early days of hybrid blends, I’d avoid the really inexpensive ones. While there might be the occasional gem, those wines are much more likely to be the dregs of the harvest. Look for wines over about $20 in the shop, or $50 in a restaurant.

Similarly, avoid wines that have too much merlot and syrah. Those two grapes both have a tendency to get super-ripe and juicy, and combined they can create the effect of an almost artificial sweetness, like cherry cough syrup. Specific amounts might vary, but I’d look for wines that are less than 50 percent combined syrah and merlot.

I think that for years, red blends carried a bit of a stigma in the minds of “serious” wine drinkers. They were simple wines, or a dumping ground for mediocre grapes, or a science project that didn’t show proper respect for the established (meaning French) traditions of winemaking. Yet it’s the willingness to experiment that has pushed the wine world’s frontiers in fascinating and exciting ways, and plenty of Washington winemakers have shown that you can create world-class wine without a slavish devotion to tradition.

So next time you’re choosing a bottle with dinner, consider one of the many blends you’ll find at a Seattle restaurant with a wellcurated wine list. And as always, never be afraid to ask questions. If a restaurant’s chosen to include quality blends, it’ll no doubt have plenty to say about them. E food@seattleweekly.com

VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 19 19

Dine with Mark Ryan Good Wine W

I

N

E

R

Y

MARK MARK RYANRYAN WINERY beenproducing producing WINERYhas has been

premium, hand-craftedWashington Washington wines premium, hand-crafted

Wine Tasting

wines in Woodinville sinceSpecializing 1999. in Woodinville since 1999. in

Specializing in Bordeaux-style red Bordeaux-style red wines from the state’s wines from the state’s premier AVA, premierRed AVA, Red Mountain, Mark Mountain, Mark Ryan has beenRyan has consistently among the most highly-highlybeen consistently among the most acclaimed wineries in Washington State. acclaimed wineries in Washington State.

OPEN DAILY 12-5

Mark Ryan W

I

N

E

R

Y

“An estate getting intothe the creme de “An estate that’sthat’s getting upupinto

15500 Woodinville Redmond Rd NE STE C600 • Woodinville, WA 98072 • 425.527.0608 • www.TWWE.com

creme de la creme of Washington State the wines MARK producers...

RYAN WINERY has have beenoverall producing the wines have overallwith classical profiles, classical profiles, bright acidity and with premium, hand-crafted Washington wines tannin, that never lack for fruit or depth. bright acidity and tannin, that never lack in Woodinville since 1999.

Specializing in for If you haven’t tried these wines, now is Bordeaux-style fromtried the state’s fruit or depth. Ifred youwines haven’t theseawines, great time to check them out.” premier AVA, time Red Mountain, now is great to check Mark themRyan out.”has

la creme of Washington State producers…

acclaimed wineries in Washington State.

AWARD WINNING SPARKLING WINES

“An estate that’s getting up into the creme de

W W W. T R E V E R I C E L L A R S. C O M

Jeb Dunnuck, The Wine Advocate

been consistently among the most highly-

Jeb Dunnuck, The Wine Advocate

la creme of Washington State producers…

wineries ‘Top‘Top 100100 wineries in the World’ in the World’

Facebook.com/Treveri

the wines have overall classical profiles, with bright acidity and tannin, that never lack for

fruit or depth. If you haven’t tried these wines, now is great time to check them out.”

Wine & Spirits Magazine, Wine & Spirits 2012 2012 Jeb Dunnuck, The WineMagazine, Advocate 2011 Dead Horse Cabernet Sauvignon 93-95 points The Wine Advocate

WINE TASTINGS

‘Top 100 wineries 2011 Dead Horse Cabernet Sauvignon in the World’ 2011 Lonely Heart Reserve

SCENIC VISTAS

BOCCE COURTS

LIVE SUMMER MUSIC GIFTS & APPAREL

9774 HWY 14, Goldendale, WA 98620 | (877) 627.9445

“Winemaker Of The Year” “Best Destination Winery” “Washington Winery of the Year”

- 2013 INDY INTERNATIONAL - SEATTLE MAGAZINE

- 2009 WINE PRESS NW

93-95 points Cabernet Sauvignon Wine & Spirits Magazine, 2012 2011 Lonely 93-95+ points TheHeart WineReserve Advocate Cabernet Sauvignon

Tasting Room

93-95+Horse pointsCabernet Sauvignon 2011Long Dead 2011 Haul 93-95 points The Advocate 92-94 points TheWine Wine Advocate 2011 Long Haul 92-94 points 2011 Lonely Heart Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 93-95+ points The Wine Advocate

Open Thurs. - Sat. 4:30pm - 10:00pm

Live MusicEverett’s (No Cover) every Friday Winery & Saturday 7:00pm - 9:00pm Downtown Own Boutique

M A R K RYA N TAST IN G RO O M S

Tasting Room Open 425-339-0293 • 2802Thursday-Saturday Rockefeller Ave • Everett, WA 98201 4:30pm – 10:00pm or wine@portgardnerbaywinery.com

2011 Long Haul

WO O D I N V I L L E TA S T I N G R O O M 92-94 points WA L LWine A WA L L A TA S T I N G R O O M The Advocate

14475 Woodinville-Redmond Road 26 E. Main Street, Ste 1 Woodinville WA 98072 Walla Walla, WA 99362 ph. 425.415.3865 ph.

509.876.4577 M A R K RYA N TASTING RO OM S

Live Music (No Cover) every Friday & Saturday 7:00pm – 9:00pm

WA L L A WA L L A TA S T I N G R O O M www.markryanwinery.com 26 E. Main Street, Ste 1

WO O D I N V I L L E TA S T I N G R O O M

14475 Woodinville-Redmond Road Woodinville WA 98072 ph. 425.415.3865

Walla Walla, WA 99362 (LAST MODIFIED) ph. 509.876.4577

www.markryanwinery.com

| maryhillwinery.com

February 6, 2014 2:55 PM

x

425-339-0293 2802 Rockefeller Ave • Everett, WA 98201 or wine@portgardnerbaywindery.com

E-mailed

(FILE NAME) DEV 14 2x3 PGBW

x

TD

LW

DS

Making a Restaurant

DECONSTRUCTING DINING

Seattle architecture firm Atelier Drome shows us how it’s done.

BY NICOLE SPRINKLE

T

Left: Atelier Drome’s Henry Walters and Michelle Linden. Top: Interior window sketches of Roberto’s Venetian Trattoria. Below: Slow bar at Ballard Coffee Works.

hese days, we take it for granted that the restaurants we flock to will come with a handsomely appointed interior. Without the requisite charming ambience, even the best food may not alone draw us. But an inviting interior doesn’t come out of thin air; it’s the result of months and months of talks and labor between chef/owner and architect/designer—a process that diners rarely get any peek into. Until now.

We asked local design firm Atelier Drome to give you a look at how a restaurant is made. The firm specializes in (among other things) restaurant design, with high-profile clients like Ethan Stowell, Nathan Lockwood, and others. From envisioning a concept to refining it and eventually constructing it, principals Henry Walters and Michelle Linden took us behind the scenes, with lots of anecdotes, sketches, and photos from real restaurants and coffee shops they’ve worked on.

ENVISIONING DRAWING: HENRY WALTERS, PHOTOS: ATELIER DROME

Seattle Weekly: A successful restaurant has a signature look and feel that gels with its overall concept—the story it’s trying to tell. Often a restaurateur knows what the story is, but isn’t sure how to translate that into a look. Can you give us an example of how you helped a client integrate their design with their story?

Atelier Drome: We’re currently working on a few modifications for Seattle Coffee Works’ Pike Street location. SCW prides itself on its intelligent and ethical approach to coffee, which is evident in both their farm-to-cup philosophy (directly sourcing and roasting the beans) and their wide range of methods for making the coffee. From a design standpoint, we want to help inform their clientele about their ethical and distinctively delicious approaches to sourcing, roasting, and making coffee that distinguish SCW from your average coffee shop.

They have a “slow bar,” which is a separate section of the cafe where customers can learn about and taste-test the various methodologies. Right now, though, the slow bar is a bit hidden from view, so we’re organizing the signage, artwork (including photos of the farmers SCW works with), and seating at the slow bar to more clearly distinguish it as a place for enjoying and learning about coffee. VORACIOUS DINING • SEATTLE VORACIOUS DININGGUIDE GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 21 21

DECONSTRUCTING DINING

RENDERING AND PHOTOS: ATELIER DROME

Left: Roberto’s Venetian Trattoria exterior. Above: Pettirosa’s salvaged old gymnasium lights from Second Use and wood and steel chairs fabricated by Red Soul for Ballard Pizza Works.

views of the water, foot-traffic patterns in the market, and a structure visible beyond the walls of its own restaurant (therefore increasing visibility and interest of passersby) gave it the advantage over the other spaces.

What about actually finding a spot? It

seems like more people are looking to open restaurants, but availability is increasingly scarce. As architect/designers, how do you go about sourcing a location that meets a restaurant’s needs?

We often work with clients before they’ve even signed a lease to determine if a space is right for them. Before signing the lease for Roberto’s Venetian Trattoria, soon to open in Pike Place Market, we worked with the client

on schematic designs for three other downtown spaces. While working through the various options, we were able to compare seat counts, pedestrian traffic, view corridors, and general branding of the various spaces. Ultimately, we were able to help show how much more compelling the space at the market would be. For example, while its layout actually had a slightly smaller seat count (though we were able to maximize it with the addition of an outdoor dining pavilion), the amazing

REFINING

Once your client has found their dream location, I imagine there’s quite a bit of red tape in the form of approvals, leases, city code standards . . . What’s one of the most challenging spots you’ve had to deal with in this regard?

Roberto’s has been a complex build-out. In addition to the remodel of a space within an existing historical building, we also designed

a new modern steel-and-glass outdoor dining pavilion and had to demonstrate via 3-D models that it would not block views of the historic Public Market sign visible along the Hillclimb and Western Avenue. Working with the Market itself was particularly demanding, as we had to present all of our designs, plans, and 3-D models for review and approval before even applying for building and health permits. We feel proud that we were able to design the first new ground-up construction in the market in many years.

I’ve been to a lot of restaurants lately which tout some original or found objects that they incorporated into the design scheme. The idea of recycling is very popular right now. Have you ever worked on 

f

PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu

The heart of France in the heart of Pike Place Market Join us for brunch, lunch, happy hour, dinner & summer breakfast

1600 Post Alley • Pike Place Market, Seattle 206.728.2233 • www.cafecampagne.com

Downtown 1511 6th Avenue I Seattle, WA 98101 206.223.0550 mortons.com/seattle VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 23 23

DECONSTRUCTING DINING FARESTART PRESENTS

Guest Chef

Enjoy tastes from 30 of the area’s most highly regarded chefs and sips from 30 of Washington’s top wineries, breweries, and distilleries.

Thursday, June 5th

from 6:30–9:30 p.m.

at Showbox SoDo

Proceeds benefit FareStart’s culinary job training programs for homeless and disadvantaged individuals.

TICKETS ON SALE NOW Visit FareStart.org to purchase today!

GENERAL ADMISSION: A limited number of early bird tickets will be available for $70 per person. When early bird tickets sell out, the price will go up to $80 per person.

VIP Tickets: $130. Includes access to the VIP Lounge at 5:30 p.m., exclusive tastes, early admittance to main event, and a goodie bag.

This is a 21-and-over event.

 a project that inspired you to use some

of the existing interior elements?

Many of our clients are eager to add salvaged materials, fixtures, or appliances to their projects. We’ve taken many treasure-hunting trips to local salvage shops, such as Second Use and Earthwise. While Pettirosso Seattle was under construction, we discovered four old gymnasium lights at Second Use that we knew needed a loving home. We convinced owners Miki and Yuki Sodos to purchase these giant caged lights, which are now a fantastic and unexpected feature in the main dining area.

“While we have all come to expect good design from our restaurants, sometimes this

DELICIOUS MENU | HAPPY HOUR SPECIALS | CATERING

PHOTOS ATELIER DROME

means a design that really speaks to you, and other times the design is a quieter player.”

1629 Eastlake Avenue East | Seattle 206.322.6174 | www.siamthairestaurants.com 24 WEEKLY • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 24 SEATTLE Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 20142014

What about collaboration? Besides contractors, whom else do you enlist to help bring a restaurant space to life?

We feel really lucky to collaborate with some fantastic clients, contractors, and craftsmen. One of our favorites is Red Soul, a steel fabricator near Georgetown. We’ve worked with them designing/building wood and steel chairs for Ballard Pizza Works, as well as steel bench legs and table bases for Rione XIII, Staple and Fancy, and more. The guys at Red Soul got their start working on high-end custom choppers—which is a very different clientele than the average architectural fabricator . . . But they’re great at what they do, super-creative, and a lot of fun to work with.

Tell me about a design challenge that wasn’t typical for you.

When Ethan Stowell came to us to design Bar Cotto, he wanted the space to be a younger, brighter sibling to next door’s Anchovies & Olives, and he wanted both restaurants to connect physically and visually, as well as share restrooms, prep areas, and a walk-in cooler. We went back and forth on a variety of ways to connect the two spaces (even though their designs are totally different) without causing problems with sound or light in either space. Eventually, we came up with a design for custom steel-and-glass pivoting windows. These very heavy windows are balanced so that they’re simple to operate. When closed, the windows still provide a visual connection, but when open, the two

Top: Bar Cotto and Anchovies & Olives’ shared window. Bottom: Pettirosa’s 50-year-old “secret” room.

spaces become linked, even though you’re still in separate spaces.

CONSTRUCTING

I imagine you work on a lot of older, even historic buildings. What are some of the “surprises” you’ve stumbled upon in the process of constructing a restaurant space from a long-standing spot?

Sometimes when working in old buildings, we discover something totally unexpected.

During construction of Pettirosso, we found a room that had been boarded up and forgotten for at least 50 years! It still featured vintage wall coverings and light fixtures, and while we will never find out why it was covered up, we’re sure glad we found it. After the space was uncovered, we were able to make modifications to the original design using the newly found space as a server and bus station, which enabled those items to be moved out of the dining room.

Besides designing a space and its interior elements, do you ever actually custom-make anything, or is that all left to various tradesmen?

As designers, we like to make objects with our hands that can inhabit the spaces we design. It gives us a more personal, 

What is this place? This valley of reds and whites. Where wineries are thicker than Starbucks, and brewers and distillers roam wild.

Where chefs make nature their pantry, and a bike trail forks into a thousand tastes. Some heavenly corner of Europe? Think again, Seattle. This is a land called Woodinville.

Suds & Spirits

Eats

Happenings

SCRATCH KITCHEN SMART COCKTAILS DECONSTRUCTING DINING

SCRATCH KITCHEN SMART COCKTAILS

tactile connection to our work, and is often

an inexpensive way to add a sense of craft to the project. For Ethan Stowell’s Bar Cotto, we designed and built the three large central pendant lights in the space out of bailing wire, using a yoga ball as a form. We really love to make things and would love to do it even more—it brings us back to our model building roots.

Where do you see restaurant design headed in terms of new trends and styles?

During the recession, we saw a lot of small 20-to-30-seat neighborhood restaurants open up, many by first-time owners starting a new career. As the economy has started to power back up, we’re starting to see larger or more extravagant restaurants opening closer to downtown.

Restaurant design in Seattle is all over the map; however, we notice a tendency towards an honest expression of the building shell, the use of natural, even reused materials in new and creative ways, and a focus on local artisans and craftspeople and their process in the objects that inhabit the space.

A focus in most of our restaurants has been to open the kitchen to the dining room.

Chefs are rock stars, and Seattle’s foodies are fascinated by their process of creating standout dishes. It’s very rare that we work on a closed kitchen anymore. The open kitchen is a stage, a form of entertainment that thrills

SOUTH LAKE UNION

SCRATCH KITCHEN SMART COCKTAILS

1170 REPUBLICAN ST. 203.683.7632 WWW.ROWHOUSECAFE.COM

SOUTH LAKE UNION

1170 REPUBLICAN ST. 203.683.7632 WWW.ROWHOUSECAFE.COM

prima bistro A Northwest Bistro inspired by French Classics Locally sourced Seasonal Menu Stunning Views and Deck Seating Live Music Thursday Nights SOUTH LAKE UNION 1170 REPUBLICAN ST. “So magical that ferries will take you there” 203.683.7632

Above: Bar Cotto’s pendant lights created from yoga balls. Below: Staple & Fancy’s open kitchen for rock-star chefs.

WWW.ROWHOUSECAFE.COM

360-221-4060 www.primabistro.com in historic langley on whidbey island

PHOTOS BY GEOFFREY SMITH

and inspires. We hope that the boundaries between chef and diner continue to dissolve.

As diners ourselves, when we go to a restaurant we want to understand the full experience of what is on our plate, and the more we can blur those lines, the more we all get a fuller experience.

What are you most excited about right now?

We particularly like how many restaurateurs and designers are re-envisioning how their spaces interact with each other and the public, by combining several culinary concepts together around a shared kitchen within an open-market atmosphere, such as Melrose Market and Via6.

We also love all of the pop-up restaurants happening throughout the city. The benefits of pop-ups are so huge. They allow new chefs and restaurateurs to take a chance and develop a name for themselves before making the full

leap to a permanent home. In fact, many of our clients ( Juicebox and La Bodega, for example) have started as pop-ups. But the benefit isn’t just for the chefs—the whole city is benefitting. Both new and established chefs are able to take chances that you just wouldn’t be able to do in a typical restaurant. We know there is a whole city of full bellies (ours included) thankful for these pop-ups.

The interesting thing about restaurant design is that while we all have come to expect good design from our restaurants, sometimes this means a design that really speaks to you, and other times the design is a quieter player that allows the restaurant to speak for itself. Both approaches are difficult in their own way, but in fact sometimes it can be harder to create a design that simply retreats to the background and allows you to enjoy the food and the company. E nsprinkle@seattleweekly.com VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 29 29

10 3

O U R FA V O R I T E R E S TA U R A N T S

O F O U R FAVO RITE PL ACES TO EAT AND DR INK

We’re Wild About Fish Celebrating Fresh Northwest Cuisine Dinner daily from 5pm

Happy Hour

Daily 4-6:30pm & 9-close

JAY FRIEDMAN

Private dining rooms

ASIAN BA BAR If you weren’t already a fan of Eric Banh’s hip Vietnamese restaurant and craft-cocktail bar, the addition of a slushy cocktail machine last summer may have done the trick. Truly, there’s something for everyone on this menu: rotisserie chicken with lemongrass; interesting vermicelli bowls (including one with seared catfish); pho that goes beyond the traditional with additions like duck-leg confit. But what really makes this restaurant a cut above Seattle’s many Vietnamese places is Banh’s dedication to quality, sustainable, locally sourced ingredients. The brisket and oxtail in his pho herald from Painted Hills Farm, the tofu from Northwest Tofu, the eggs from Wilcox Farm. There are also the many delicious and fanciful appetizers, like fried frog legs and a broiled mackerel wrap, that can easily add up to a meal. See the ingredient he’s most excited about right now on page 13.

550 12th Ave., 328-2030, babarseattle.com NICOLE SPRINKLE BAMBOO GARDEN The area’s finest Chinese food can be found on the Eastside, where you can sample spicy Szechuan fare. Bellevue’s Bamboo Garden is the best of the bunch. There’s a regular menu for the more timid, but I recommend the “Walk on the Wild Side” menu.

Here you’ll find adventurous dishes like swimming fire fish, pork tongue slices, and sour & spicy jellyfish. My favorite is the spicy cauldron called “the other parts of the pig,” with pork intestines, pig-blood cubes, tofu chunks, basil, and pickled cabbage in a tangy broth.

If things heat up too much, refreshing watermelon juice can come to the rescue. 202 106th Pl. N.E., Bellevue, 425-688-7991, bamboogardendining.com JAY FRIEDMAN BOILING POINT Everyone can get what they want out of the Taiwanese hot-pot experience at Boiling Point, where diners choose their soups and add-ons for individually portioned hot pots. The many soup options, at varying price levels, include a spicy Korean kimchee and a curry fish-ball soup. The house-special soup is a hot-pot homage to stinky tofu, a fermented Taiwanese tofu that is also a popular side dish. The list of add-ons includes various proteins and seafood, plus assorted vegetables. While heating up is the prerogative here, special attention is given to the cool-down, with exotic slush drinks, milk teas, and snowflake

Westward on Lake Union shaved ice. 1075 Bellevue Way N.E., Bellevue, 425455-8375; 610 Fifth Ave. S., Seattle, 737-8506. bpgroupusa.com TIFFANY RAN DIN TAI FUNG Taiwanese chain Din Tai Fung brought xiao long bao (a delicate Chinese soup dumpling) to the masses, and this year expanded from its Bellevue location to another in the U District. It’s no wonder the xiao long bao has become so ubiquitous that knowing patrons need only refer to it as XLB. Most XLB aficionados opt for the pork and crab for traditional decadence, but look beyond the bamboo steamers and you’ll see that the sides, soups, noodles, and wontons deserve a fair shake. The house chicken noodle soup is deeply therapeutic, the pork-chop fried rice is filling and satisfying, and appetizers like the seaweed and bean curd in vinegar dressing and soy noodle salad contribute crisp and clean flavors to a rich meal.

Note: The Bellevue location is the first in the Din Tai Fung chain to have a bar, so order a lychee martini to wash these baos down. 700 Bellevue Way N.E. #280, Bellevue, 425-698-1095; 2621 N.E. 46th St., 525-0958, dintaifungusa.com TIFFANY RAN HUONG BINH There may be more glamorous spots in Seattle for Vietnamese food, but this is my favorite. Located in a restaurant-filled strip mall in the Little Saigon section of Seattle’s International District, Huong Binh has a wide variety of noodle soups, rice plates, rice-flour crepes, and more at reasonable prices. The grilled pork is a signature item. Weekend specials include bún mang vit, the duck broth soup with rice noodles and bamboo—along with an overflowing plate of poached duck—that you’ll see on nearly every table.

1207 S. Jackson St., 720-4907 JAY FRIEDMAN

perfect for weddings & graduations plus two view patios.

Seattle’s Ship Canal with four private dining rooms and two outdoor patios that offer a prime view of the water and the Fremont and Aurora bridges Audits 3014 3RD AVE N SEATTLE | 206-284-3000 | www.pontigrill.com

SHOP FRESH SHOP LOCAL

SHOP PCC

JAMJUREE Beyond having the most fun restaurant name in Seattle, Jamjuree also has some of the most flavorful Thai curry the city has to offer. Never watery or mealy, its massaman and yellow curries are thick, sweet, and soul-rejuvenating in the same way Mom’s chicken soup is. 509 15th Ave. E., 323-4255, jamjuree. com KELTON SEARS JOULE It’s probably safe to say that if you haven’t been to Joule yet, you’ve been living under a rock. It’s been voted best restaurant (or some version thereof) by just about every national food publication or food award. Its particular brand of Korean/French fusion

Nine neighborhood locations

pcc naturalmarkets.com

VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 31 31

Nijo Sushi Bar & Grill 83 Spring Street Seattle, WA 98104 206.340.8880 www.nijosushi.com

HOURS Mon - Fri 11am to 11pm HAPPY HOUR Sat - Sun All night Sun-Tues 4pm to 11pm starting at 4pm

32 Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2014

O U R FA V O R I T E R E S TA U R A N T S

Marination Ma Kai and its sexy interior have won over diners, and the kitchen has served as a training ground for many an aspiring Seattle chef. Their beef is some of the best you’ll have—whether in burger form, short ribs, tartare, or steak—and their variety of rice and noodle dishes are impressive, served with things like pickled mustard greens and salted pollack confit. In fact, it’s the unusual, delicious sides and condiments that really make the food shine here: walnut pesto, smoky yogurt, fish caramel pickles, spicy cod roe aioli, grilled kimchi, hot bacon vinaigrette. Cocktails too, get unusual treatments, with add-ons like lapsang souchong tea and Asian pear. Ditto for desserts, like a fig upside-down cake with blue cheese whip and Chinese sausage crumble, or their signature Joule Box (my favorite): pearl tapioca with ruby grapefruit brûlée and coconut. It tastes as good as it looks. 3506 Stone Way N., 632-5685, joulerestaurant.com NICOLE SPRINKLE REVEL If you like Joule (above), it’s a safe bet you’re also a fan of its sister restaurant, Revel, also in Fremont. Like Joule, its focus is Korean fusion, minus the French part. Instead, you’ll find heartier, rustic offerings, like a pork belly and kimchi pancake or a short-rib rice bowl with daikon and mustard greens. Dumplings here are a far cry from what you’d ever find in the ID, with fillings like potato and leek, Gruyère, and truffle cream (OK, maybe there is some French influence here). On a recent visit, I enjoyed their young jackfruit curry with black lentil, mint chutney, and kale. The room, like Joule’s, is sleek, with pop art that changes regularly. On my birthday, we sat under a colorful painting of Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly. And, also like Joule, it’s always packed, so get there early or call ahead. 403 N. 36th St., 547-2040, revelseattle. com NICOLE SPRINKLE

MARINATION MA KAI Fans of the Marination food truck and brick-andmortar “station” on Capitol Hill were thrilled when a second fixed location opened on Alki Beach in late

NOODLE BOAT In a town of 10,000 Thai restaurants (or so it seems), the best is actually a short drive away in Issaquah.

Three reasons: the many unique dishes; the great prices, with most dishes about $10 or less; and Noodle Boat doesn’t dumb down the spice levels. Pay special attention to the third, as Noodle Boat closes six weeks each winter for a family (working) vacation in Thailand to make chili paste for the restaurant.

Start with mieng kum: roasted coconut, peanuts, red onion, Thai chili, ginger, lime, palm-sugar sauce, and dried shrimp that you wrap in a cha-pu leaf. The explosion of flavors previews a menu full of fantastic food. 700 N.W. Gilman Blvd., Issaquah, 425-391-8096, noodleboat.com JAY FRIEDMAN NORTHWEST TOFU Seattle has what few other diverse cities do—a place offering freshly made tofu. Lucky for us, Northwest Tofu also runs as a daytime restaurant, where Chinese families and knowing regulars plan ahead to get in for a weekend brunch of fresh soy milk and crullers, green-onion pancakes, and steamed buns. Here one can discover tofu’s many forms and textures, including chewy soy noodles, a silky tofu fa (a savory flan), and the light and crisp salt-and-pepper tofu.

Northwest Tofu’s soy milk, fried tofu, and marinated tofu are made on-site and available for takeout. They also provide wholesale orders to local restaurants, so if you’ve had great tofu elsewhere, you might want to pay credit where it’s due. 1913 S. Jackson St., 3288320 TIFFANY RAN

COMMITTED TO BRINGING YOU THE FINEST AND MOST AUTHENTIC OF MEXICAN CUISINE SODO location The Original North Ballard location New Ballard restaurant 1021OccidentalAve Seattle location 5314 15th Ave NW 206-659-0236 11728AuroraAveN 206-297-1124 6416 15th Ave NW 206-367-2777 At Mud Bay 206-784-5411 Between Next to Century Link Bringing the Home Depot truck inside! and Safeco Fields Ask us about Catering

www.elcamionseattle.com

Wood-Fired | Authentic | Neapolitan

POPPY With its many delightful condiments and flavors, Indian food was made for tapas—and Seattle diners are lucky that Poppy on Capitol Hill figured that out. The chic yet playfully modern interior may trick you into thinking this is just another sophisticated Pacific Northwest restaurant, but the menu quickly disproves that. The thalis are what it’s best known for: basically a platter of six or so different appetizersize dishes that together form a meal for two (with maybe a starter or two thrown in for good measure, like the irresistible eggplant fries with sea salt and honey). The thalis, which change regularly, are typically defined by a protein, ramped up with veggies, starches, salads, and naan. For $27, expect something like yogurt and white-poppy-seed chicken with fried onions and raisins; smoked eggplant and lentil soup with coconut yogurt; celery, satsuma, and black-bean salad; vanilla parsnips with black pepper; black rice with yams and scallion; carrot and beet-green pickles; and nigella-poppy naan. Come summer, ask for a seat in the back garden, and you’ll be surrounded by the lovely herbs and vegetables the restaurant grows. 622 Broadway E., 324-1108, poppyseattle.com NICOLE SPRINKLE UWAY MALATANG A popular Chinese model of hot pot, priced per pound, finds its way to Seattle with Uway Malatang. In this somewhat hidden spot in the International District’s Pacific Rim Center, diners can choose from assorted toppings like pork blood, tofu, seasonal greens, sliced beef and lamb, ramen noodles, and more for a Sichuanese dry pot or a bone-soup hot pot. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch chef Cheng Biao Yang hand-pulling noodles

RED FISH BLUE FISH PHOTOGRAPHY

LITTLE UNCLE Kudos to Little Uncle for reinventing the ubiquitous, sleek yet staid, typical Thai restaurant. In the basement of a building in Pioneer Square, it’s actually a place you want to hang out. With comfy couches and bar seating, it has a decidedly cool, underground (both literally and figuratively) vibe. Add to that food that goes beyond staple dishes like pad Thai (though their vegetarian, gluten-free pad Thai is pretty damn good), and you’ll be forever ruined for mediocre Thai. There are daily specials—also novel for a Thai restaurant—but you can’t go wrong with their spiced braised beef rice-noodle soup with Chinese celery, fried garlic, and chili vinegar (it’s tangy and spicy in a perfect ratio, and I’ve made pilgrimages there by foot on the most miserably rainy days) or their poached free-range chicken with garlic and chicken fat rice, winter-melon broth, and spicy soy ginger sauce. Or fill up on a starter like curried rockfish fritters or griddled rice cakes with garlic chives. Here you’ll rarely find yourself reaching for sriracha sauce to bring flavor.

The dishes come fully packed with it. Now if only someone would do the same for Chinese food . . . 88 Yesler Way, 223-8529; 1509 E. Madison St., 329-1503. littleuncleseattle.com NICOLE SPRINKLE

2012. The menu includes Marination’s signature Korean-Hawaiian-influenced tacos, filled with such fare as kalbi beef, ginger miso chicken, and spicy pork. The Alki location’s expanded menu both delves deeper into fusion cuisine—including fish and chips with kimchi tartar—and offers pure Hawaiian treats, like what island natives call “shave ice.” Best yet, you can enjoy this fare on Marination’s spacious patio overlooking the water, making it one of the city’s few informal, family-friendly eateries with killer views. The water taxi from downtown takes you right there. 1660 Harbor Ave. S.W., 328-TACO, marinationmobile.com/ma-kai NINA SHAPIRO

VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 33 33

JOIN US AT PYRAMID FOR OUR

$

50.00

All Inclusive

2014 BREWER’S DINNERS

(Beer, dinner, full growler, tour, tax, gratuity)

March 27 May 15 July 17 Sept. 18 Nov 20 6:00pm Seating is Limited To purchase tickets visit: www.PyramidSeattle.eventbrite.com Hours of Operation Mon. thru Fri. 10am to 7pm Saturday 10am to 5pm Sunday 11am to 4pm

at CAPITOL at HILL at GREEN WEDGEWOOD LAKE

Wecome To Your Neighborhood Pubs!

Fresh & Wonderful Beer!

Your Beer and Wine Making Adventure Center!

8530 122nd Ave NE, B2 Kirkland,WA 98033 425-803-3996 www.mountainhomebrew.com

COME CELEBRATE CRAFT BEER & FOOD TODAY!

one city block • 3 locations pub +14 taps pizza joint +14 taps taproom +19 taps

CHUCKANUT BREWERY & KITCHEN 601 West Holly St. • Bellingham, WA • 360-75-BEERS (752-3377) ChuckanutBreweryAndKitchen.com

503.325.7468

1483 duane st

fortgeorgebrewery.com

our tasting room for Stop by Stop ourby tasting room for aa Beer or a sampler!

Beer or a sampler!

Stop by our tasting room for a Beer or a sampler!

Tasting Room Hours:

Mon-Fri: 2 - 9pm Sat: 12 - 9pm Tasting Room Hours: Sundays: Noon til 7:00pm

Mon-Fri: 2:00-9:00pm Sat: Noon til 9:00pm

Tasting Room Hours:

Sundays: Noon til 7:00pm Tasting Hours: 650 NW Bovela Room Ln, Suite #3, Poulsbo, WA 98370 Mon-Fri: 2:00-9:00pm Sat: Noon til 9:00pm 650 NW Bovela Ln, Suite #3,til Poulsbo, WA 98370 Mon-Fri:360.930.8696 2:00-9:00pm Sat: Noon 9:00pm Sundays: Noon•tilwww.soundbrewery.com 7:00pm 360.930.8696 • www.soundbrewery.com # 650 NW Bovela Ln, Suite 3, Poulsbo, WA 98370 Sundays: Noon til 7:00pm

BEER & CIDER FOOD PAIRINGS Kölsch, Cream Ale, Blonde Ale

Great with lighter food: salads, seafood, sushi; classic with weisswurst.

British-Style Bitter

Best with very light foods: salads, sushi, vegetable dishes.

Pale Ale

Great with lighter seafod dishes—classic with steamed mussels.

India Pale Ale

Substantial salads; roast chicken or pork; excellent with hearty sausage.

Double/Imperial IPA

Roast pork, beef, smoked ham or game dishes.

Lighter food: chicken, salads, salmon, bratwurst; Montery jack cheese.

Wide range of food: roast chicken or pork, fish & chips; mild cheese.

Wide range of food: meat pie, English cheese; great with a burger!

Strong, spicy food (classic with curry!); bold, sweet desserts like carrot cake.

Smoked beef brisket, grilled lamb; Southern chicken-fried steak.

Hefeweizen

American Wheat Ale

Dunkelweizen Weizenbock

Classic Pilsener

Great with lighter food: chicken, salads, salmon, bratwurst.

Scotch Ale/Wee Heavy

Lighter food: salads, seafood, pork; works with spicy Asian, Cajun, Latin.

Brown Ale, Altbier

Oktoberfest, Märzen, Vienna

Roasted or grilled beef, lamb, game, smoked salmon.

Hearty foods; roast pork, smoked sausage, grilled salmon.

Abbey Dubbel

Helles, Dortmunder

Mexican or any hearty, spicy food; chicken, sausage, pork.

Amber Lager

Barbecue, meat stews, or a nice thick steak or smoked rib roast.

Hearty, spicy food: barbecue, hamburgers, chili.

Abbey Tripel, Strong Golden Ale

Dark Lager, Dunkel, Schwarzbier

Spicy Cajun food, crab cakes, pheasant or roast turkey.

Old or Strong Ale

Big, instense dishes such as roast beef, lamb or game, grilled or roasted.

Barley Wine

Easily overpowers most main dishes. Best with strong cheese or dessert.

Porter

Roasted or smoked food: barbecue, sausages, roasted meat, blackened fish.

Dry Stout

Hearty, rich food; steak, meat pie; a classic with raw oysters.

Sweet or Oatmeal Stout

Rich, spicy food like barbecued beef, Oaxacan mole or hearty Szechuan dishes.

Imperial Stout

Easily overpowers most main dishes, but stands up to foie gras, smoked goose.

Ten beers on tap, paired with a fine selection of locally sourced, N W pub food Join us in our Taproom, Bistro or Beer Garden - Open every day at 11am

Bellingham’s Craft Beer Destination

Witbier

Amber/Red Ale

Wide range of food: chicken, seafood, burgers; great with spicy cuisine.

360.930.8696 • www.soundbrewery.com

650 NW Bovela Ln, Suite #3, Poulsbo, WA 98370 360.930.8696 • www.soundbrewery.com

Hearty, spicy food: barbecue, sausages, roasted meat.

Maibock/Pale Bock

Spicy food like Thai or Korean barbecue; great with fried chicken, too.

Doppelbock

Rich roasty foods like duck or roasted pork shanks; great with cured meats.

Hard Cider*

Wide range of foods, notably bold cheeses, charcuterie, pork shoulder, and grilled fish.

Oak Aged Hard Cider*

Robust foods, BBQ, pulled pork, brisket, soft ripened cheeses

This information was provided by and is the property of the Brewers Association 888-822-6273 brewersassociation.org *THIS CONTENT PROVIDED BY THIRD PARTY

5:00 PM - 8:30 PM at our retail location:

NORTHWEST SAUSAGE & DELI 5945 Prather Rd, Centralia (800) 586-7760

Tasting Room Hours Fri & Sat 3:00-7:30 PM 3516 Galvin Rd, Centralia • 360.736.1603 • DicksBeer.com

Alpenfire Cider (360) 379-8915 Alpenfirecider.com Finnriver Farm & Cidery (360) 732-4337 Finnriver.com Eaglemount Wine & Cider (360) 732-4084 Eaglemountwinery.com

A Specialty Beer and Wine Store * 800+ rotating domestic and international beers * 400+ wines, ports & bubbles * 200+ Mead & Hard Ciders: Largest Selection in the Northwest!

www.fullthrottlebottles.com * (206) 763-2079 5909 Airport Way S Seattle, WA 98108 * info@fullthrottlebottles.com

BEER TOURS Tours Include: Craft Beer at each Brewery • Transportation to Breweries Puget Sound Brewery Tours Growler • Puget Sound Brewery Tours T-Shirt

Contact us at info@pugetsoundbrewerytours.com or call 206-384-3637

Follow Us

PugetSoundBreweryTours.com

4

Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2011

BEND, OREGON

GOODBEER FOR GOODLIFE

EXPERIMENTAL ALES IN FREMONT SINCE 2012 OPEN AT 4PM TUES-FRI, 2PM SAT-SUN, CLOSED MONDAYS

225 N.36th St. Seattle,WA 98103 (206) 486 -4088 OutlanderBrewing.com

O U R FA V O R I T E R E S TA U R A N T S

REAL MEXICAN FLAVOR Breakfast: Everyday 8am-3pm Dinner: Sun-Thurs 5pm-9pm Friday-Saturday 5pm-10pm

HAPPY HOUR: M-TH 4:30-6:00PM 5242 NW Leary Ave Seattle 98107 • 206.784.5568

OPENING IN JUNE

www.omabap.com 1223 E Cherry St. #C121A Seattle, WA. 98122 Conveniently located on 12th Ave right next to Cherry St. Coffee

in the kitchen, and take that as a sign to venture beyond hot pot. These noodles are the showstopper, outstanding in their intentionally rustic nature and gratifying chew. Another notable option, the hand-shaven noodles, are also made in-house. 900 S. Jackson St., Suite 212, 467-0600, uwayrestaurant.com TIFFANY RAN

BAKERIES BAKERY NOUVEAU Bakery Nouveau calls it chocolate “bread,” but it’s so rich, dense, moist, and cake-y you’ll probably want a fork. But it’s not so sweet that you can’t justify eating it for breakfast. Win-win! The treat ($2.25 a slice, $10 a loaf) sits atop a case filled with baked goods from macarons to sandwiches, with beautifully sculpted pastries and cakes and glossy, gemlike little candies that look like pieces for a board game in a pasha’s palace. A whiteboard lists the day’s breads: olive fougasse, ciabatta, challah, and pain au levain. With its brown, cream, and russet walls, the compact Bakery Nouveau is cozy and bustling—not exactly a place to while away an afternoon, but there’s seating enough to linger, enjoy your choice(s), stare at the temptations in the case, and contemplate whether you want to indulge in something to go. 4737 California Ave. S.W., 923-0534, bakerynouveau.com GAVIN BORCHERT BYEN BAKERI Despite its weird location on Nickerson Street in Interbay (though it’s technically classified as Queen Anne), this Scandinavian-style bakery is one of the best in the city. Besides delicious fruit danishes (apricot is my favorite), croissants, and the like, Byen bakes delectable Scandinavian treats, like a cardamom bun filled with pastry cream and topped with coconut (my new Saturday morning indulgence), kringles (pretzel-shaped sweet pastries), stollen (fruit cake), and lefse (a soft Norwegian flatbread). Did I mention the twice-baked almond croissant dipped in brandy or the raspberry coffee cake? Take a chance on this one-of-a-kind bakery. 15 Nickerson St., Suite D, 218-1000, byenbakeri.com NICOLE SPRINKLE COLUMBIA CITY BAKERY Walk into this light-filled bakery on a weekend morning—a line of people waiting for croissants and breads baked at dawn, the tables filled with friends talking over coffee or parents sharing treats with their kids—and it feels like you’ve found the neighborhood’s heart and soul. There’s a reason everyone flocks here. The croissants rival those in Paris, the breads and rolls are sought after by restaurants around the city, and the pastries will make your eyes light up. The pear and cream-cheese danish is especially good. 4865 Rainier Ave. S., 723-6023, columbiacitybakery.com NINA SHAPIRO CRUMBLE & FLAKE PATISSERIE The lines may have let up a little at this Capitol Hill spot, but the quality remains high—not surprising, given that pastry chef Neil Robertson’s background includes a stint at Canlis. This jewel box of a place (takeout only) showcases crunchy kouign amann (like a croissant folded into itself), perfectly caramelized canelés, chewios (like a chewy Oreo), colorful macarons, and cream puffs filled to order. And don’t overlook the stellar smoked paprika-and-cheddar croissant, plus any other savory options. It’s no wonder Robertson’s been nominated for a 2014 James Beard award as the country’s best pastry chef.

1500 E. Olive Way, 329-1804, crumbleandflake.com JAY FRIEDMAN FUJI BAKERY A brief closure last year—during which Fuji Bakery moved its production site—had loyal fans bemoaning the temporary loss of their favorite French-Japanese pastries. Since then, Fuji Bakery has reopened their Bellevue and International District locations and added a storefront to the primary production space on Elliott Avenue, where crowd favorites like the salmon brioche, mild curry bun, pear Danish, matcha

38 WEEKLY • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 38 SEATTLE Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 20142014

azuki bread, and Fuji’s signature melon pan are made.

Owner Akihiro Nakamura uses Japanese flour and cultured European butter for his pastries, creating a light, airy texture and rich, complex taste—just another reason why in a city with so many bakeries, there remains no real substitute for this one. 1030 Elliott Ave. W., 216-3616; 526 S. King St., 623-4050; 1502 145th Pl. S.E., Bellevue, 425-641-4050. fujibakeryinc. com TIFFANY RAN

BARS ALTSTADT Brendan McGill’s German“Bierhalle”—large but cozy, with a roaring fire—is the perfect happy-hour spot on a Thursday or Friday night. While they have standards like hot pretzels, the wursts (like turkey and duck fat white sausage) and other fare like red potatoes, red cabbage, and herbs with a warm mustard vinaigrette are delicious. Then there’s the beer: more than 30 to choose from, as well as mulled wines. 209 First Ave. S., 602-6442, altstadtseattle.com NICOLE SPRINKLE ATLANTIC CROSSING The Seahawks might rightly have dominated Seattle sports conversation in 2013, but let’s not forget we have a reputation to uphold as a soccer stronghold as well. With the World Cup coming in June and the English Premier League nearing a dramatic finish, soccer bars are a must, and there is none finer in Seattle than Atlantic Crossing. Plenty of TVs carefully arranged to provide maximum excitement set the mood, but it’s the food that sets AC apart: creative takes on pub classics, well-executed and flying out of the kitchen even during the busiest moments. 6508 Roosevelt Way N.E., 729-6266, theatlanticcrossing. com ZACH GEBALLE CANON Canon is where you go with your father to discuss business and Hemingway over a glass of whiskey.

Honestly, though, you won’t get much talking done, with all the fawning over your drinks you’re sure to do. Canon’s whiskey concoctions are unreasonably delicious—this is the kind of bar that puts egg whites in their whiskey sours. Don’t take my word for it, though; Cannon’s daunting list of accolades places it at the top of Seattle’s most venerated bars. 928 12th Ave., 552-9755, canonseattle.com KELTON SEARS E. SMITH MERCANTILE The bar in the back of E. Smith Mercantile is no secret. There are no hidden entrances or mysterious doorbells, just a horseshoe-shaped bar tucked behind the quaint boutique opened by Kate Pool and daughters Jesse and Sara. The shop is named after Kate’s grandfather, E. Smith, and harks back to simpler days in his small mining town of Atlanta, Idaho. Its products also reflect a simpler time: artisanal foods, American handcrafted products, sturdy leather bags, and vintage apparel. Tired shoppers can retire to the bar for craft cocktails and small bites in an intimate 14-seat space that feels like you’re at a cozy campfire. Drinks at E. Smith may evoke the same experience, as its cocktails often echo the flavors of a gold miner’s era—honey, vanilla, whiskey, and mesquite—the good ol’ days. 208 First Ave. S., 641-7250, esmith mercantile.com TIFFANY RAN ROB ROY A bulwark against Belltown’s ever-rising douche tide, Rob Roy is one of the city’s finest cocktail bars.

Ever since its inception, it’s managed to fuse unusual ingredients (like gunpowder) with classic techniques in a space that feels both welcoming (the couches are super-comfy) and disorienting (hoof lamps, anyone?). 2332 Second Ave., 956-8423, robroyseattle.com ZACH GEBALLE SUN LIQUOR A small, dark bar on a somewhat-forgotten corner of Capitol Hill, Sun Liquor remains my favorite spot to cozy up with a cocktail and a first date. While of course the full range of spirits from their hilltop dis-

O U R FA V O R I T E R E S TA U R A N T S tillery is on display, the bartenders are rarely pushy about them. The drinks can be the star of the show, or you can sip a beer and both pretend that you find Tinder silly. 607 Summit Ave. E., 860-1130, sunliquor. com ZACH GEBALLE TWILIGHT EXIT To make a good bar, all you need is beer, hamburgers, and a jukebox. It’s outrageous how few places manage to ace the trifecta, but Twilight Exit does—and throws in an arcade room and a wonderful outdoor seating area to boot. In the heart of the Central District, you can easily spot the place by its evermorphing, acid-influenced wall mural. Twilight Exit is Merriam-Webster’s definition of “chill”: all of the fun with none of the fuss. 2514 E. Cherry St., 324-7462, twilightexit.com KELTON SEARS VIF WINE & COFFEE This cafe and wine bar took over the former Herfy’s Burgers space to become Fremont’s gem of a breakfast spot and daytime eatery. Vif specializes in natural wines and specialty coffee; more recently, its Pho Friday has become a neighborhood event for which to mark calendars. Visitors can also snack on breakfast pastries, lunch salads, and tartines made from local produce—and enjoy a day of laid-back peoplewatching. In French, vif means bright, lively, and vivacious, which aptly describes the establishment’s wine selection and its space, where natural light pours in through every large window. 4401 Fremont Ave. N., 557-7357, vifseattle.com TIFFANY RAN ZIG ZAG CAFÉ Bar-watchers were curious to see what would happen to Zig Zag when Murray Stenson left his longtime perch behind the bar in 2011. Would the pioneer of Seattle cocktail culture flop without him? Fortunately for all of us, Erik Hakkinen has proven more than capable of filling those shoes. Zig Zag remains a rare cocktail lover’s dream, with an ever-evolving selection, creative specialty drinks, and bartenders willing to answer your questions, no matter how silly they seem. 1501 Western Ave. #202, 625-1146, zigzag seattle.com ZACH GEBALLE

BREWERIES EPIC ALES Brewmaster Cody Morris doesn’t shy away from the bizarre with his concoctions; mushrooms, beets, and rooibos tea have been known to make it into his brews. Morris has mastered mainstream beers like IPA and oatmeal stout, but pushes the envelope with an ever-changing collection of sour beers. The tiny SoDo brewery is connected to Gastropod, an also-tiny restaurant and tasting room, where Morris’ beers are paired with ingenious dishes by chef Travis Kukull. 3201 First Ave. S., Suite 104, 351-3637, epicales. com MEGAN HILL FREMONT BREWING COMPANY Bursting onto the scene in 2009 with an extraordinary flagship pale ale and an IPA—the first signs this place was destined to become a powerhouse—Fremont Brewing has grown up, now crafting an impressive lineup of seasonal beers in addition to those two delightful originals. The company also experiments frequently with a Randall, a thingamajig that imparts flavors into beer by filtering them through an ingredient like lemon or lavender. Add points for its focus on sustainability, lowering its impact with its brewing technology and packaging. 1050 N. 34th St., 420-2407, fremontbrewing.com MEGAN HILL HILLIARD’S A cornerstone of Ballard’s microbrewery scene.

Hilliard’s beer is extremely drinkable; the brewer specializes in standards like amber, blonde, saison, pils, and insanely popular 12th Can pale. Those reliable brews come in tallboy cans year-round; in fact, Hilliard’s was one of the first Washington breweries to opt for aluminum, which is perfect for a day at the beach or a long hike in the mountains. At the brewery

you’ll find drafts like the pre-Prohibition-style Chrome Satan; an Irish dry stout called Murdered Out; and several creative seasonal brews. 1550 N.W. 49th St., 257-4486, hilliardsbeer.com MEGAN HILL

Enjoy gourmet food from the comfort of your own home

ROOFTOP BREWING Sweet little Rooftop Brewing, in a converted garage in a north Queen Anne alley, is run by a group of former home brewers who decided to take their passion pro. These guys know what’s up. A rotating cast of delicious small-batch brews is accompanied by standards like the Makeda Coffee Porter, strangely one of the few such beers in Seattle—rich, roasty, and delightfully caffeinated with coffee from Seattle’s Seven Roasters. And this past November, Rooftop’s IPA snagged first place in the 26th Annual PNA Winter Beer Taste. 6 Dravus St., 276-4091, rooftopbrewco.com MEGAN HILL STANDARD BREWING Justin Gerardy opened a brewery in a veritable beer desert on Jackson Street, so it’s no surprise he’s become a neighborhood superstar. Gerardy brews great beer, experimenting with different types of hops and yeasts as only a true beer nerd would. His lineup rotates, but the complex, hoppy depths of the Cascadian Dark Ale or the bright, refreshing Bee’s Wine Ginger Beer—not a beer at all, really—are go-to picks. 2504 S. Jackson St., 535-1584, standardbrew. com MEGAN HILL

BRUNCH LINDA’S Most people go here just to get sloshed once night falls, but did you know they do indeed serve brunch if you aren’t too hung over to wake up for it? And, surprise surprise, it’s damn good too. For fans of Mexican-style breakfasts, Linda’s has especially got your back. Try the flautas: cheesy, eggy goodness wrapped up in fried tortillas. Chase them down with a pitcher of mimosas and meditate on how lucky you are to be alive with all this food in front of you. 707 E. Pine St., 325-1220, lindastavern.com KELTON SEARS LOUISA’S More than a decade has passed since Louisa’s first opened as a relaxed neighborhood brunch spot and bakery that perfectly mirrored its perenially relaxed Eastlake neighborhood. But in the past few years, the corner spot with big windows overlooking Rogers Playfield has begun a transformation into a lively dinner-and-drinks option as well. Brunch is still the main attraction: the applewood smoked ham hash delightfully sweet, the biscuits and gravy packing a Creole kick, and the Lyonnaise breakfast salad fresh and tangy and filling—all served with toast from justbaked bread. Dinner focuses on comfort, with a toothsome meatloaf and lightly spiced fried chicken as highlights. The cafe has also recently added a stage that is intermittently booked by a local music heavy and a full bar with a growing list of regulars. 2379 Eastlake Ave. E., 325-0081, louisascafe.com. MARK S. BAUMGARTEN SKILLET I’ve awakened many a Sunday morning haunted by Skillet’s fried chicken thigh and waffle. The thigh, fried to crispy, golden perfection and laid ever so gently atop the waffle (made from cornmeal, because flour is for philistines), makes quite possibly one of the holiest brunch unions in Seattle. If you want to journey even deeper down Decadence Lane, you can sub out the chicken for a slab of fatty, succulent pork belly.

1400 E. Union St., 512-2000; 2034 N.W. 56th St, 9227981, skilletstreetfood.com KELTON SEARS TILIKUM PLACE CAFÉ One of the things I miss most about living in Belltown is brunch at Tilikum Place Café, a lovely anomaly tucked next to The 5 Point Café and across from a nail salon and a Zeek’s pizza. With a beautiful arrangement of flowers at the counter to greet you, this quaint, Parisian-feeling restaurant, makes brunch the

sashimi grade fish • sushi • live oysters • Asian BBQ prepared foods • beer, wine & sake • and more! ................................................................................................................................... seattle | bellevue | renton | beaverton | www.uwajimaya.com

Espresso • Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Open Everyday from 7am - 9pm Happy Hour 3pm - 6pm

1132 1st Ave • Seattle WA 98101 • (206) 728-4128 • www.cafefonte.com VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 39 39

O U R FA V O R I T E R E S TA U R A N T S special occasion it should be. While there are always many specials to consider, some of my favorite staple items include the baked eggs with spaghetti squash, fontina, roasted tomatoes, cream, and bread crumbs; a Dutch baby pancake, either savory or sweet (allow 20 minutes prep); the roast-chicken salad with roasted red peppers, boiled egg, and a light dressing of aioli; or the sardine sandwich. They also do delicious tarts and sides of housemade sausage and bacon. Coffee is served in individual French presses.

Despite its odd-ish location, brunch is always packed, so do make a reservation. 407 Cedar St., 282-4830, tilikumplacecafe.com NICOLE SPRINKLE BOAT STREET CAFE AND KITCHEN I’d probably eat brunch here every weekend if I could find a willing partner to join in the ceaseless loop— and if it weren’t so tough to get a table. One of Renee Erickson’s spots (The Whale Wins, The Walrus and the Carpenter), Boat Street feels utterly Parisian in its perfected shabby-chic, romantic interior, as well as in its flawless execution of a French breakfast. It starts with the perfect baguette, real butter, and house jam (or the buttermilk biscuit with honey butter, or the fresh seasonal fruit scone). After that, it’s a tough call, but I stand by their specials: primarily the best eggs Benedict you’ll find in the city, with interesting twists like goat cheese, artichoke hearts, and hollandaise.

That said, it’s hard to turn down their rustic cornmeal custard cake (like the most delicate, moist pancake you’ll ever eat) with sausage and maple syrup. There are all sorts of lunch items as well—steak au poivre with horseradish sauce on arugula, French-style potato salad, or a “True Cod Niçoise” salad. 3131 Western Ave., #301, 632-4602, boatstreetcafe.com NICOLE SPRINKLE

Open for lunch and dinner Wednesday - Sunday Serving Breakfast Saturday and Sunday • 2014 Local Eats Best Restaurant • 2011 & 2012 Seattle Weekly winner, Best Greek • 2009 Evening Magazine Winner, Best Mediterranean • 2012 Named Best Ballard Restaurant by the Ballard Restaurant Project • Featured in Food Lover’s Guide to Seattle Weekly

PLAKA ESTIATORIO BRINGS AUTHENTIC ATHENIAN GREEK CUISINE TO BALLARD!

www.plakaballard.com Find us on Facebook .

5407 20th Ave NW – 206-829-8934

40 WEEKLY • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 40 SEATTLE Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 20142014

HI SPOT CAFÉ There’s usually a wait at Madrona’s Hi Spot for weekend breakfast. A little tip: Call ahead to get your name on the list. Hell yeah, they do that! The Hi Spot does all kinds of awesome, in fact, like enormous, mouthwatering pastries (try the cinnamon roll) and fabulous espresso (Fonté). Its most miraculous feat?

Somehow, when the rest of us are hungover, the staff is fresh-faced and cheerful, and keep your coffee topped off while sharing laughs with co-workers (plus the place is so intimate, you never feel left out of the joke). When the sun’s out, sit on the patio and see that energy amplify threefold. Omelets are great, as are the other veg-friendly options, like the fabulous Asianspiced tofu scramble. 1410 34th Ave., 325-7905, hispot cafe.com GWENDOLYN ELLIOTT

CAJUN & CREOLE MARCELA’S CREOLE COOKERY Chef Anthony McDonald, a New Orleans transplant, cooks up an assortment of hometown classics, from po’boys to the traditional muffuletta, crawfish étouffée, shrimp Creole, and an array of expertly fried items like alligator, oysters, catfish, and crawfish.

McDonald and his wife, Marcela Fuenzalida, host crawfish-boil parties on Sundays in April, May, and June at the Pioneer Square restaurant. Leave room for the bread pudding, rich with whiskey sauce, or the bananas flambeau, a version of a Foster that is set aflame tableside. 106 James St., 223-0042, marcelas creolecookery.com MEGAN HILL THE NEW ORLEANS CREOLE RESTAURANT This Pioneer Square joint rocks with live jazz, zydeco, and blues bands almost every night of the week. The music accompanies food like fried oysters, jambalaya, and stuffed flounder. The New Orleans has managed to come up with vegetarian versions of super-meaty jambalaya and gumbo—both surprisingly flavorful and holding true to the complexities of the originals.

Wash them down with a drink or two from a massive menu that includes New Orleans favorites like the hurricane, fruity and full of rum, and a classic mint julep. 114 First Ave. S., 622-2563, neworleans creolerestaurant.com MEGAN HILL

ROUX Following the success of his food truck Where Ya At Matt, New Orleanian Matt Lewis opened brick-andmortar Roux in the fall. Authentic beignets piled with powdered sugar and coffee are available all day, and lunch mimics the truck’s fare, with fat po’boy sandwiches, a salty muffuletta, and steaming bowls of gumbo and jambalaya. Dinner gets sexy with gussiedup versions of the stuff you’d find rural Cajuns cooking in their backyards: crispy pig ear, fried chicken gizzards, frog legs, and fried rabbit saddle. Wash it all down with a pint of smooth chicory amber, made in a partnership at Elysian Brewing. 4201 Fremont Ave. N., 547-5420, restaurantroux.com MEGAN HILL TOULOUSE PETIT This gift to Lower Queen Anne has found the perfect marriage between the Deep South and the Pacific Northwest, with dishes like Dungeness crab over fried green tomatoes. At lunch, an impressive list of salads, sandwiches, and entrées includes highlights like po’boys with Mama Lil’s peppers and housemade andouille sausage with red beans and rice. The restaurant’s interior, with its plaster walls, ironwork, and ceramic and glass mosaic tiles, contribute to a pretty darn accurate impression of New Orleans’ French Quarter. 601 Queen Anne Ave. N., 432-9069, toulousepetit.com MEGAN HILL

FOOD TRUCKS EL CAMIÓN A refreshing solution to the noticeable lack of Mexican food trucks around these parts. With locations in Ballard, SoDo, and North Seattle, you can get your fix of breakfast burritos bursting with scrambled eggs, cheese, onions, black beans, pico de gallo, and either ham, chorizo, or fajita-style veggies. Later in the day, there’s an array of tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and enormous tamales. Other highlights here are the gorditas, thick handmade tortillas piled with grilled onions, Cotija cheese, salsa verde, avocado, and choice of meat, and the plato mole, two generous pieces of chicken swimming in a rich mole sauce.

Locations vary. elcamionseattle.com MEGAN HILL MAXIMUS/MINIMUS The hulking metal pig that is the Maximus/Minimus food truck is hard to miss. The tank is often downtown or at the Fremont Sunday Market, serving home-style barbecue in two styles: maximus for a bolder flavor profile, minimus for something lighter and brighter.

One highlight is the succulent and spicy maximus pork sandwich, whose minimus counterpart is sweetened with tamarind, honey, and molasses. A delightful vegetarian version is also available, as is the addition of Beecher’s Flagship cheese. Locations vary. 9714150, maximus-minimus.com MEGAN HILL NARWHAL Renee Erickson’s adorable oyster food truck—converted from a vintage dairy van—shows up at spots like Hilliard’s Beer, the Queen Anne Farmers Market, and your buddy’s surprise party serving seafoodcentric dishes. The menu is short and sweet, with the careful sourcing and attention to detail we’ve come to expect at Erickson’s restaurants. Recent standouts include a smoked-trout salad with lentils and crème fraîche, fried oysters with espelette aioli, and a cucumber gazpacho with crab salad. Locations vary.

395-5147, narwhaloystertruck.com MEGAN HILL OFF THE REZ Did you know you’re allowed to pile barbecue pork into elephant-ear-style fry bread and shove it in your face? Well, you are! It’s called an “Indian taco,” and it’s just as mind-blowingly tasty as it sounds. Mark McConnell, Off the Rez’s owner, grew up eating Native American food at family powwows in Montana, and thankfully he brings that culinary tradition to your drunk weekend outings. The menu might sound a little unusual at first: cumin crema burger? What is that? I’m not sure, but it tastes incredible, as does pretty much everything at this gem of a street-food

O U R FA V O R I T E R E S TA U R A N T S stand. Locations vary. 414-8226, roaminghunger.com/ off-the-rez KELTON SEARS

FRENCH LE PICHET In a city that’s zealously embracing French bistrostyle food, Le Pichet still manages to be the most Parisian of the bunch. Their roasted chicken is unrivaled, their charcuterie varied and flawless, their onion soup one of the few I’ve ever tasted where the cheese doesn’t completely overwhelm the delicacy of the broth. If you’re looking for a lunch sandwich for less than $10, their $7 sandwich en baguette is a steal, with its choice of Paris ham, jambon cru, pâté, or chicken-liver terrine with Gruyère or your choice from the cheese board. The $6 desserts are also thoroughly French in all the right ways. 1933 First Ave., 256-1499, lepichetseattle.com NICOLE SPRINKLE BASTILLE CAFE & BAR This large French brasserie on Ballard Avenue is always hopping. Though it’s not pushing any boundaries, that’s part of its appeal—this is the place to get solid standards like steak frites, a croque monsieur, moules frites, and pâté while sipping a French 75. But, being Seattle, it also offers things like raw kale salad or roasted delicata squash. In the summer, reserve one of their evening seatings on the rooftop garden (it comes with a tour) and watch all the Ballard hipsters mosey down the avenue. 5307 Ballard Ave. N.W., 4535014, bastilleseattle.com NICOLE SPRINKLE LUC After Rover (now closed) and before Loulay (recently opened), there was Luc, the most laid-back of Thierry Rautureau’s French restaurants. Tucked away in Madison Valley, this dimly lit, very romantic restaurant can as easily be a place for a special-occasion meal as for a dinner alone at the bar. Either way, the food doesn’t disappoint, with classic French standouts like a white-bean cassoulet with duck confit, braised lamb, pork sausage, and arugula salad, or trout amandine with root-vegetable hash, parsley, almond, and lemon. Of course you can always just go for the burger, with Luc’s aioli, tomato jam, caramelized onion, and fries (add comte cheese or Zoe’s bacon if you wish). A four-course prix fixe menu is served each night. 2800 E. Madison St., 328-6645, thechef inthehat.com/luc NICOLE SPRINKLE

ITALIAN AGRODOLCE Agrodolce serves southern Italian fare, the brainchild of Maria Hines and executed by executive chef Jason Brzozowy. The menu pulls inspiration from the coast and the land in dishes with handmade pasta. Ingredients—like the smoked mussels, the lacinato kale, and the grass-fed lamb—are local, sustainable, and organic, as Hines is wont to do. Surprisingly for an Italian restaurant, Hines and Brzozowy offer several vegan and gluten-free dishes, and manage to make them without sacrificing flavor or quality. Of late, they’re even milling their own grains in the basement (like Emmer) for freshly made pasta. 709 N. 35th St., 547-9707, agrodolcerestaurant.net MEGAN HILL HOW TO COOK A WOLF The many iterations of Ethan Stowell’s core concept all have their unique charms, but How to Cook a Wolf remains the most well-articulated version of the kind of Italian cuisine Stowell has championed.

Tiny and compact, it has an openness that inspires a sense of trust and belief, akin to a magician rolling up his sleeves to prove he doesn’t have a card stuck there. The food draws both from Italian classics and Northwest staples: witness a geoduck crudo. The pasta is handmade and delicious, and the cured meats always excel. 2208 Queen Anne Ave. N., 838-8090, ethanstowellrestaurants.com ZACH GEBALLE

JAPANESE/HAWAIIAN SUSHI BAR & GRILL

IL CORVO Even in this era of gluten shame, few things satisfy quite the way a bowl of handmade pasta, perfectly sauced, can. Mike Easton’s food remains dedicated to excellence through simplicity, with just three pastas and a few antipasti available on any given day. Don’t let the crowds faze you; the food (and the sense of contentment) is worth the wait. 217 James St., 5380999, ilcorvopasta.com ZACH GEBALLE SPINASSE The effect of seeing your pasta being made in front of you can’t be underestimated. Whenever I go to Spinasse, I inevitably gravitate to the bar, where I can watch the team of pasta makers mix, shape, and cut while I enjoy the fruits of their labor. With a sterling wine list centered on nebbiolo, the gem of Piedmont, and a thoughtful, varied menu that highlights the pasta, Spinasse remains Seattle’s benchmark for fresh pasta and Northern Italian fare. 1531 14th Ave., 251-7673, spinasse.com ZACH GEBALLE

MIDDLE EASTERN & AFRICAN CHEF CAFÉ It’s a fact well known to most intrepid diners: The less assuming an ethnic joint looks, the more likely it is to be good. Chef Café delivers on that count, as the odd name and tired decor can’t obscure the fact that it’s the home of Seattle’s best Ethiopian food. Portions are almost overwhelmingly generous, and they have by far the best injera I’ve had in the city. Other highlights include the yebeg wat (lamb), sega tibs (beef), whatever fish they happen to have, and katenga, a toasted and buttered injera appetizer. Service can vary wildly in attentiveness and speed, but the food is always worth it. 2200 S. Jackson St., 568-2681 ZACH GEBALLE GOLDEN BEETLE From the outside, it’s easy to mistake this Ballard restaurant for just another Thai establishment. But walk inside and enter the lovely Middle Eastern world created by Maria Hines, complete with beautiful light fixtures and large black-and-white photos of her travels in that region—of the people who inspired and taught her. One of my go-to restaurants during the week, I can rarely resist the perfectly cooked herbed falafel (delicate and not greasy, and made with fava beans instead of chickpeas); her chickpea and lemon stew (add lamb if you’re a meat eater), which I almost always end up covertly licking the last drops of; or the almond-stuffed medjool dates with a Meyer-lemon gastrique, grilled romaine, and urfa. Of course, because it’s Maria Hines, almost all dishes are organic and sustainable, and come with a vegetarian option. The woodfired pizzas are delish too; try the duck sausage with peanut berbere, Gruyère, and pickled serrano.

1744 N.W. Market St., 706-2977, golden-beetle.com NICOLE SPRINKLE MAMNOON Mamnoon is that rare breed of Middle Eastern restaurant that manages to be supremely stylish while also serving impeccable food. And while the large, open space doesn’t feel cold, it definitely encourages you to bust out your finer fashion. The menu is categorized by small plates, salads, the oven, and the grill— and you’ll want to sample a bit from each. Try not to overindulge in the bread plate, with exquisite versions of regional types, including a Syrian flatbread. There are almost always specials, and they’re almost always fantastic, so be sure to heed your waiter’s advice on those. Otherwise, the fried cauliflower with tarator and parsley and the muhammara (a dip made of walnuts, pepper paste, pomegranate, and cumin) make perfect starters. I tend to get two and skip the salad. As for the oven, it’s worth it to splurge for the $38 Chilean sea bass with pepper paste, pine nuts, cabbage, mint, and cilantro; it’s a large portion and cooked to perfection (easily shared by two). You

KARAOKE

Sunday, Monday & Tuesdays!

LIVE ISLAND MUSIC Wednesdays!

& WEEKEND DJ’S

“YOSH SIZE IT!” loco moco, kalua pork, katsu, chili n’ rice, yaki soba, fish & chips, and pork curry n’ rice

FRIDAY & SATURDAY Kitchen Open Til Midnight

SATURDAY & Sunday

EAT | DRINK | MUSIC | DANCE

Mexican Brunch 11am - 3pm

Indulge in an authentic Hawaiian and Japanese food experience $3 HAPPY HOUR GET YOUR HUI REWARDS CARD TODAY. EARN A REWARD EVERY 250PT! DJ’S | BANDS | KARAOKE

Happy Hour Every Day 4-6pm & 10-midnight

$1 off Wells & Microbrews

SERVING ONO GRINDS AND TROPICAL COCKTAILS 11:30AM TO LATE NIGHT EVERY NIGHT!

West Seattle: 2620 Alki Ave SW 206.933.7345 Phinney Ridge: 6711 Greenwood Ave N 206.706.4889

www.elchupacabraseattle.com www.facebook.com/bar.chupacabra

HAPPY HOUR & LATE NIGHT HAPPY HOUR MONDAY & TUESDAY 5:00PM-11:30PM WEDNESDAY & THURSDAY 5:00PM-7:00PM & 9:00PM-11:30PM FRIDAY 5:00PM-7:00PM • SUNDAY 9:00PM-11:30PM

SERVING LUNCH & DINNER LATE SINCE 1999 2207 1ST AVE BELLTOWN 206.956.9329 OHANABELLTOWN.COM

Open 3 PM - 2 AM Daily Sundays 12 PM - 2 AM

H A P PY H O U R MON-FRI 3-7 PM Late night HH on food SUN - THU 11p-2a

ALL DAY SUN, MON, TUES $3 Rainier Tall Boys & 1/2 Price Pool

Host your next event here

Affordable, accommodating and spacious We can cater to your needs be it a party of 10 or 500. Check us out online!

Summer Patio Bar • Free WiFi Pizza window open and serving Daily until 2 AM 456 N 36th St, Seattle, WA 98103

206-634-2575

www.ballroomfremont.com VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 41 41

organic ingredients · local dairy vegan options

...Because it’s so fainting good!...

n jju un cca a jun

ss ’ l ’ i l a c i s m ss’y y e l m jun i e a a J c a e Jl’s eem sy

WI R WINNER NNE WI

NNER

ibiig Jsy ea g m s ’ e l i Jsy bea big CAJUN CAJUN CAJUN m e g FOOD J ea bi FOOD CAJUN FOOD 11 2 0 11 20

NNER

T. E S T. ES

ES

1903 N 45th St Seattle, WA 98103 206.327.9459

20

T.

RE AL t h

g in

YA ’L L

11

1 01

g2 . ng i ST n h 1 g E R2 0E1 AL t h i in RE ALRt th E

WI

NNER

AL

TRUCK TRUCK CAJUN FOOD TRUCK + CATERING, DROP TRUCK + CATERING, DROPOFF OFF +FOOD CATERING, DROP OFF FOR PARTIES & EVENTS FOR PARTIES & EVENTS TRUCK FOR PARTIES & EVENTS CATERING, DROP OFF Find usFind at SeattleFoodTruck.com us at SeattleFoodTruck.com

YA ’L L

big

YA ’L L

WI

NNER

YA YA ’L’LL

WI

jun ca

ES

T.

RE AL t

g n hi

+ Find us at SeattleFoodTruck.com JemilsBigEasy.com / Facebook & Twitter FOR PARTIES & EVENTS JemilsBigEasy.com / Facebook & Twitter + CATERING,Find DROP OFF JemilsBigEasy.com / Facebook & Twitter us at SeattleFoodTruck.com faintinggoatseattle.com FOR PARTIES & EVENTS JemilsBigEasy.com / 206.930.8915 Facebook & Twitter 206.930.8915

206.930.8915

Find us at SeattleFoodTruck.com JemilsBigEasy.com / Facebook & Twitter

206.930.8915 206.930.8915

THE BEST PHO IN SEATTLE

The most gracious host in town is ready to please your palate...

Open for Dinner 7 nights a week

Mon - Wed 5 - 9pm | Thu - Sun 5 - 9:30pm Book your next catered event or private party with George today Find us

7719 Greenwood Avenue North 206-783-0116 • www.gorgeousgeorges.com

42 Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2014

PHO VIET ANH VIETNAMESE NOODLE SOUP & GRILL QUEEN ANNE

372 Roy Street, Seattle

206-352-1881

U-DISTRICT

6510 Roosevelt Way, Seattle

206-466-2179

DYLAN AND JENI

O U R FA V O R I T E R E S TA U R A N T S

Bar Sajor

can’t go wrong with anything from the grill, but if you ordered the sea bass, I suggest the reasonably priced kefta (minced lamb, onion, pistachio, baharat). End your meal with Turkish coffee–flavored ice cream or the creamy labneh cheesecake with walnut toffee and ksara pluot. 1508 Melrose Ave., 906-9606, mamnoonrestaurant.com NICOLE SPRINKLE

MEXICAN & SOUTH AMERICAN FONDA LA CATRINA This Georgetown Mexican restaurant has one of the best interiors come summertime, with a back patio that gives you an up-close view of planes flying into the Boeing airfield (sometimes jet fighters that shake the joint). While like most Mexican restaurants in Seattle, they don’t get everything right, Fonda La Catrina makes the best “dark” mole in town; with roasted peanuts, almonds, and ancho, negro, and morito chiles, it has just the right smokiness and touch of heat. Other notables: lengua (tongue), a variety of tortas (Mexican grilled sandwiches), and a flan made with goat milk. 5905 Airport Way S., 767-2787, fondalacatrina.com NICOLE SPRINKLE LITTLE WATER CANTINA Despite its misleading moniker, Little Water Cantina boasts a view that contains a lot of water: all of Lake Union, which on a sunny day makes this the city’s most alluring Mexican restaurant. The menu is modest but populated with a diversity of flavors, from the wildboar torta, balanced between sweet grilled pineapple and an immodest three-chili sauce, to the steamed local mussels in a tequila-spiked broth. The tacos are spring-fresh year-round with a few great sauces, and during lunch the kitchen serves cheap and tasty tortas. And that name? Actually, it refers (I think) to the restaurant’s commitment to water conservation—as well as to sipping agave, with more than 80 bottles to choose from. 2865 Eastlake Ave. E., 397-4940, little watercantina.com MARK S. BAUMGARTEN MEZCALERIA OAXACA Queen Anne Avenue might not seem like it’d have one of the city’s best Mexican restaurants, but it does. Mezcaleria Oaxaca, which just opened a new location on Capitol Hill (where you would expect great Mexican), was voted one of the best Mexican restaurants in the U.S. by Travel & Leisure last year.

What’s the appeal? For starters, the housemade masa that makes up the delicious tamales. Then there are the chicken thighs in a sauce of tomatoes, chiles, olives, almonds, and raisins, and a chile-marinated, slow-roasted goat, with black beans and corn masa.

But it may be the drinks that really define it. This is the place to try mezcal, a strong spirit made from the maguey plant. You can sample more than 30 of them straight via tasting flights, on their own, or mixed in a house drink. 2123 Queen Anne Ave. N., 216-4446, mezcaleriaoaxaca.com NICOLE SPRINKLE MOJITOS It’s easy to miss this tiny, no-frills restaurant off the Lake City Way exit, despite its bright-yellow exterior.

But if you don’t seek it out, you’ll be deprived of what may be the best South American food in Seattle.

The 12-year-old restaurant serves straight-up Latin-

American and Caribbean home cooking, with dishes from Venezuela, Colombia, Peru, Cuba, Puerto Rico, and the Dominican Republic, full of flavor and prepared, with unwavering consistency, by South American cooks. My hands-down favorite item on the menu is the mojito pescado: fish cooked in a banana leaf and seasoned with paprika and cinnamon. Even better, it comes with some of the most addictive soupy black beans and rice, sweet plantains, and— believe it or not—a real salad with tasty greens, ripe avocado, and tomatoes. They also serve a mean mojito (how could they not?). On Sundays, the South American community pours in for sancocho (a hearty fish-andpotato stew popular throughout South America and the Caribbean). Kids will enjoy playing the drums and other Yoruba-based instruments. 7545 Lake City Way N.E., 525-3162, mojito1.com NICOLE SPRINKLE PASEO The line out of Paseo exists for a reason. In this modest space, the best sandwiches in town—hell, in the region—are served. They are of Caribbean origin, served on an aioli-smacked baguette with cilantro, jalapeños, and caramelized onions. What you ask the guys behind the counter to put in it is a matter of personality. The Caribbean Roast is a perennial favorite (the slow-roasted pork should fall apart in your hands), but there’s something here for everyone: the Smokin’ Thigh for chicken lovers, the spicy Tofu Delight for vegetarians. And if bread isn’t your thing, the West Caribbean Bowl—packed with salsa, jalapeños, and a chicken thigh—will more than suffice. 4225 Fremont Ave. N., 545-7440; 6226 Seaview Ave. N.W., 789-3100, paseoseattle.com MARK S. BAUMGARTEN SEÑOR MOOSE CAFE Though La Carta de Oaxaca on hip Ballard Avenue gets all the fanfare, the less-stylish Señor Moose, stranded next to a parking lot on a desolate block of Leary Avenue, wins me over. The space is old-school hacienda style (lots of Day of the Dead decor), and the food comes on platters. But don’t be put off by its homely vibe. They’ll surprise you with their inventiveness: A jicama salad, served simply with cucumber, lime, cilantro and chile, is a great starter before moving onto something heartier—say, a taco filled with sweet potato, panela cheese, spinach, black beans, and pepitas, or chicken livers sautéed with bacon, jalapeños, and onions and served with refried beans and rice. They also do classics, including enchiladas suizas, carne asada, and a variety of moles. Extra kudos for a variety of margaritas and fresh juices, plus delicious guacamole. 5242 Leary Ave. N.W., 784-5568, senormoose.com NICOLE SPRINKLE

NEW PACIFIC NORTHWEST ART OF THE TABLE Creativity can be a blessing and a curse in the restaurant business. Innovative food might get you noticed, but push the boundaries too far and you could leave most diners behind. Dustin Ronspies manages to tread that razor’s edge, fusing an eclectic mix of ingredients and techniques into what can only be considered Seattle cuisine. His intimate Fremont restaurant seats the lucky few who get to explore that new frontier on any given night. Lately, it’s not just locals who have taken notice; Ronspies was one of the 2014 James Beard Award nominees for Best Northwest Chef.

1054 N. 39th St., 282-0942, artofthetable.net ZACH GEBALLE BAR SAJOR Here the open kitchen and bar and split-level space symbolize that Pioneer Square is open for business (and recreation), with chef/owner Matt Dillon at the heart of the renaissance. Come for lunch if you want to take advantage of the daylight that illuminates the space, and bring a few friends to enjoy a perfect plate of pickles and some lovely tartines (I especially recommend any seasonal fish or mushroom offerings)

Serving authentic Indonesian Street Food to greater Seattle area

bubumbutruck@gmail.com

2335 Rainier Ave S

www.bumbutruck.com

(206) 322-4368

206-604-3462

Monday-Saturday: 8:30am - 5:30pm

Fresh, Wild, Local & Exotic Seafood Family Owned and Operated We Pack & Ship for Travel Freshness & Quality Guaranteed!

Follow Us @MutualFish

Established 1909 In the heart of the Pike Place Market, between fresh fish and flower stands sits a neighborhood institution - The Athenian Restaurant and Bar, serving New American cuisine using the freshest ingredients from the bounty of the Pacific Northwest.

SERVING

Monday-Saturday 6:30 AM - 9:00 PM (Bar last call 9:45 PM) Sunday 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM (Bar last call 5:30 PM) Breakfast Menu Served until 11:00am.

Seven breakfast entrees are available on our Lunch/Dinner menu.

HAPPY HOURS

MONDAY - SATURDAY 4:00-9:00 PM

206-624-7166 PIKE PL ACE MARKET

www.athenianseattle.com

VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 43 43

CELEBRATE WITH US!

O U R FA V O R I T E R E S TA U R A N T S while you await your order of whole chicken cooked in the fireplace, deliciously simple with some lime and harissa notes. 323 Occidental Ave. S., 682-1117, barsajor.com JAY FRIEDMAN BLIND PIG BISTRO The most frustrating thing about the Blind Pig Bistro is also its genius: a complete lack of sentimentality. Early on in the life of the exceptional restaurant, smuggled into Eastlake in an unassuming strip mall, chef/owner Charles Walpole made good on his promise to wipe away any dish his staff tired of by eliminating the sturgeon, to howls from diners. No matter, the chalkboard menu of eight to 10 dishes rarely disappoints. From a perfectly prepared pork belly (which hasn’t been on the menu in some time, but is seared into my brain) to a simple charred eggplant purée that co-stars with flank steak to an architectural and entertaining endive salad, the dishes here are always an adventure. You’ll go back, but you’ll never have the same experience twice. 2238 Eastlake Ave. E., 3292744, blindpigbistro.com MARK S. BAUMGARTEN BRIMMER & HEELTAP This Asian-inflected bistro/gastropub is the epitome of a neighborhood restaurant. Proprietor Jen Doak works the room with her infectious, down-to-earth charm as diners feast on half-size or whole portions of Mike Whisenhunt’s (Joule, Revel) unique brand of comfort food. With staples like Chinese-style baked buns filled with kobacha squash and glazed with a sherry, seaweed, and walnut crumble and broiled pork shoulder with caramelized-onion kimchi, this is the kind of restaurant where you’ll always feel comfortable dropping in alone for a bite and a cocktail at the buzzing bar, with its retro white leather seats. The space, formerly inhabited by La Gourmand, is bright and lively, just like its owner. 425 N.W. Market St., 4202534, brimmerandheeltap.com NICOLE SPRINKLE HITCHCOCK Hitchcock’s Brendan McGill was voted The People’s Best New Chef in a Food & Wine magazine national contest, and his place is well worth the short ferry ride to Bainbridge Island. What’s the best way to experience this eclectic restaurant? Pick a price for a tasting menu (you can order a la carte, but the tasting menu lets you name your price for a chef-determined number of courses), then sit back and enjoy all the dishes that showcase pickling, fermenting, preserving, roasting, grilling, and more. McGill always maps out an adventurous meal, with fascinating ingredient combinations and flavors from start to finish. If duck is on the menu, request it. (Hitchcock Deli, next door, is also fantastic.) 133 Winslow Way E., #100, 201-3789, Bainbridge Island, hitchcockrestaurant.com JAY FRIEDMAN LA BÊTE Aleks Dimitrijevic’s La Bête is as ornate and whimsical as its contemporary-American menu, which is bolstered by a sophisticated weaving of European influence and, more recently, Arab flavors borrowed from its Monday-night Middle Eastern pop-up headed by La Bête cook Taylor Cheney. Whether it’s kasespatzle for brunch or tabbouleh on a Monday night, dishes are served on fine china and the restaurant is adorned with vivid artwork by Dimitrijevic himself. Despite its apparent elegance, the Capitol Hill restaurant fits right into the scene with its bar-friendly food and cocktails curated as carefully as its atmosphere. 1802 Bellevue Ave., 329-4047, labeteseattle.com TIFFANY RAN LLOYDMARTIN It baffles me that LloydMartin doesn’t get mentioned more often when discussing the city’s best restaurants. Sure, it’s not in Capitol Hill or Ballard, but the food at chef Sam Crannell’s Queen Anne jewel is some of the most creative and well-executed in the city. It’s the little touches, like beautifully composed soups poured tableside and perfectly cut bread, plus an innovative bar program, that should put it on any serious Seattle diner’s short list. 1525 Queen Anne Ave. N., 420-7602, lloydmartinseattle.com ZACH GEBALLE

MATT’S IN THE MARKET When guests come to town and ask for a restaurant recommendation, I’m quick to send them to Matt’s.

Not only does it boast a view of Pike Place Market and the Sound, but under chef Shane Ryan, the farm-to-table-style food is nearly always on point— and walks a fine line between sophisticated and laid-back. The interior is pretty yet understated, the large windows the focal point. In a nutshell, it’s kind of everything you want from a Seattle restaurant.

In summer, the restaurant hosts one of my favorite events: tasting menus created by Ryan and a visiting chef from another city. (I had the best meal of last summer at one of these.) But on any given night, you’ll find delicacies like a wild mushroom salad with spinach, tuada, a fried duck egg, and caramelized shallots, or steelhead with celeriac, buttered radishes, blond radicchio, and celeriac chips. If you love foie gras, this is the place to get it, served with a pistachio streusel, watercress, a Sancerre poached pear, and brioche. 94 Pike St., #32, 467-7909, mattsinthemarket. com NICOLE SPRINKLE MILLER’S GUILD Connected to downtown’s Max Hotel, this new restaurant from Jason Wilson (Crush) takes the woodfired-oven trend to a whole other level. The restaurant’s nine-foot custom-made Infierno wood-fired grill is no joke. A huge contraption—part grill, part smoker, and a whole lot of flames—it dominates the open kitchen and is used to cook steaks, ribs, lamb, quail, even octopus. In keeping with the theme, piles of firewood surround you in the lofty, high-ceilinged dining room, as do barrel casks of aging liquors. Not only meats are cooked on the fire, but beets and cauliflower too. The cocktail menu here is interesting and makes frequent use of flavored shrubs and bitters, as well as their own house-aged spirits. The soaring room, perhaps thanks to the roaring fire, manages to feel cozy. 612 Stewart St., 443-3663, millersguild.com NICOLE SPRINKLE

Contemporary Mexican Cuisine FAMILY OWNED & OPERATED

Weekend Brunch 10am-3pm $4 Mimosas $5 Mary’s

www.AgaveRest.com

Early & Late Happy Hour Issaquah Highlands 425.369.8900

Redmond at Bear Creek 425.881.8252

Large Private Room

Open for Lunch & Dinner

Lower Queen Anne next to Key Arena Opening Spring 2014

NORM’S PASTRAMI: beer &

mustard soaked pastrami, grilled onion on rye, chips & slaw

BACON JALAPENO MAC N' CHEESE: bacon-jalapeno -NORM’S SIGNATURE ITEMS-

white cheddar sauce, baconjalapeno bread crumbs

GRILLED MEATLOAF SANDWICH: SLIDERS: bacon, pepperjack, crispy onions, BBQ chipotle mayo, lettuce, tomato

BACON, PEAR, GORGONZOLA BURGER

five to choose from - Beef, Turkey, Pastrami, Greek, and Veggie

NORM'S THREE PEPPER BURGER: peppercorn coated,

roasted red pepper, poblano mayo, provolone I ’S NORM

206-547-1417 • 460 North 36th Street In the Heart of Fremont Late Night Happy Hour 11pm - 1am

MKT. Ethan Stowell’s 600-square-foot 28-seater, wedged between Elysian Brewing Company’s pub and MightyO Donuts in Tangletown, delivers well-executed Pacific Northwest cuisine, minus his usual Italian focus, with thoughtful flourishes. You won’t want to miss the “snack” of Dinah’s cheese from Kurt Timmermeister’s Vashon farm; though that cheese has become ubiquitous on menus, Stowell serves it with a tomato preserved in honey, a sweet little chunk of heaven. Likewise, the hamachi sashimi is predictable, but the tangy and crisp citrus-cucumber ice it’s served with isn’t. Mkt. gets clever with entrées too, like generous-sized sea scallops, perfectly cooked, atop a stew of white beans with smoked pork shank.

Stowell fans may feel disappointed by the scarcity of pasta dishes here, but the restaurant’s wood-fired oven best suits meats like grilled lamb tongue, rabbit, and quail—all with delicious, creative accompaniments. Three barrel-aged house cocktails change up regularly. 2108 N. 55th St., 812-1580, ethanstowell restaurants.com NICOLE SPRINKLE LE PETIT COCHON When you’re the brother of the esteemed chef/ owner of Art of the Table, there’s bound to be some pressure. Fortunately, chef Derek Ronspies does his bro Dustin proud. While his new Fremont restaurant is very focused on the “snout to tail” movement and offers lots o’ offal (gizzards, blood sausage, animalface fritters), all dishes are creatively conceived, surprising with their varied flavors. Those gizzards, for instance, come flavored with harissa, while a lamb’shead fritter is served with chickpeas, an orange saffron vin, carrot jam, and Savoy cabbage. Offal aside, LPC serves the best pork chop I’ve had—the “Olsen Farms Phat Ass” chop is thick as hell but perfectly moist and juicy—no matter what its accompaniments, which change often. In fact, most of the menu changes daily (including the best of seasonal produce), though certain items are ever-present. For dessert, don’t miss the foie gras donuts, always served with some delicious flavored ice cream and compote.

1200 3rd Ave. at Seneca (Downtown) 206-682-3336

Mon-Fri: 7am-3pm • Sat-Sun: 8am-3pm

Now delivering waffles to your downtown business!

Order online today! @sweetironwaffle

SWEETIRONWAFFLES.COM VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 45 45

O U R FA V O R I T E R E S TA U R A N T S 701 N. 36th St., Suite 200, 829-8943, gettinpiggy.com NICOLE SPRINKLE PRIMA BISTRO This is one restaurant I’ll happily travel to Whidbey Island for, especially in summer with its sweeping bay views. An unassuming structure that shares space with a retail store, this French-meets-Pacific Northwest gem is one of my favorite restaurants of the year. Chef Sieb Jurriaans, a tall, tattooed, ponytailed dude, has created a menu that rivals any in Seattle.

The details are what really raise this restaurant above the rest: His sautéed wild mushrooms are foraged by him in a nearby forest, his tartare is hand-chopped to order, his charcuterie comes from his own meat locker. You’ll find his house pancetta in the salade lyonnaise, along with frisee, a poached egg, and a warm sherry vinaigrette. The semolina-crusted Northwest oysters come with a to-die-for truffle mayonnaise, and I may have dreamed about the pan-fried veal sweatbreads with an apricot-thyme gastrique.

Though ferry lines can be long in summer, do your best to beat them and get out here for a meal. 201 1/2 First St., Langley, 360-221-4060, primabistro.com NICOLE SPRINKLE QUEEN CITY GRILL “Oh, it’s no problem. Just come in,” said the maitre d’ when I recently called the Queen City Grill about making a reservation. But I didn’t take the ready availability of tables (on a Thursday) as a warning sign, and neither should you. In fact, the Grill was warmly abuzz that evening, filled with one convivial party of a dozen and pairs of young women chatting at the bar. Comfortable and effortlessly sophisticated, it’s “a romantic restaurant for guys,” says my plus-one (emphasis his), and it’s our go-to spot for special occasions. No one does old-school, traditionalist dining better (for those not on a Canlis budget): oysters, scallops, Caesar

salad; crab cakes, salmon, duck confit, steaks; bread pudding, Key lime pie, ice cream. Go ahead, chase your food trends elsewhere; what the Grill offers is a simple, classicist commitment to the basic elements that make restaurants wonderful. 2201 First Ave., 4430975, queencitygrill.com GAVIN BORCHERT

some pork-belly sliders or veal sweetbreads. Spur has one of my favorite desserts, too, the fruit in which changes seasonally: a sponge cake with meringue, jasmine, full-bodied Leatherwood honey, and, currently, pear. 113 Blanchard St., 728-6706, spurseattle. com NICOLE SPRINKLE

RADIATOR WHISKEY Three words: smoked pig face. That’s what this Pike Place Market pub, which boasts a menu of gutwarming, elevated comfort foods, is best known for.

With the same owners as its longstanding neighbor, Matt’s in the Market, its bourbon brown walls and barrel wood accents nevertheless create a rather different vibe that echoes the bold, smoky flavors of its food and drinks. If staring a pig in the face will thwart your appetite, the fried pork shank, braised beef brisket, turkey drum confit, and lamb-neck sloppy Joes are all equally robust options. For dessert, the warm chocolate-chip cookies come with—what else? a shot of whiskey, much of which comes in barrels on tap. 94 Pike St., Suite 30, 467-4268, radiatorwhiskey. com TIFFANY RAN

STONEBURNER The latest eatery from James Weimann and Deming Maclise (Bastille, Poquitos, Macleod’s, Von Trapp’s), Stoneburner fills a needed niche for fresh comfort food on Ballard Avenue. Named after Bastille chef Jason Stoneburner, it’s filled with found objects collected from globetrots, and connects to the posh Hotel Ballard. But a space that could feel highbrow is redeemed by warm lights, a reclaimed pressed-tin ceiling, and a menu that’s reasonably priced—equal parts veg and meat and full of flavor-forward familiar fare like handmade pasta and wood-fired pizza. 5214 Ballard Ave. N.W., 695-2051, stoneburnerseattle.com SARA BILLUPS

SPUR Don’t write off Spur because it’s in Belltown or because it’s been around for a while. A pioneer in Seattle’s craft-cocktail scene, bartender Ken Gray still makes one of the best drinks in town. As one of the first gastropubs, Spur’s food is outstanding too. Whenever I go, I always sit at the bar—mostly because I love to talk to Gray about all his various housemade concoctions and allow him to customize a drink for me. While that’s being done just about everywhere now, Gray actually puts serious thought into it. Spur also happens to have, hands down, one of the best appetizers in Seattle: the sockeye salmon crostini with mascarpone, capers, and pickled shallots for $4 apiece. I share four with a friend, along with perhaps

TILTH Set in a darling Craftsman on Wallingford’s busy 45th Street, Tilth serves hippie fantasy food for dinner and brunch. Chef Maria Hines highlights New American cuisine with as many certified-organic ingredients as she can get her hands on, in addition to wild stuff that grows in the woods. Portions are small but artfully crafted and richly flavored. The menus change monthly to keep in tune with the seasons. 1411 N. 45th St., 633-0801, tilthrestaurant.com MEGAN HILL VOLUNTEER PARK CAFE Whether you’re perched in a window seat with a cup of coffee gazing at the leafy North Capitol Hill street outside, or crammed into a communal table for a big sandwich at lunch, Volunteer Park Cafe doesn’t disappoint. The emphasis here is on simplicity—let

the local ingredients shine and you can’t go wrong.

Menu items are rustic, with sandwiches on crusty bread, housemade granola, quiches and stratas, and enormous fresh pastries and cookies. 1501 17th Ave. E., 328-3155, alwaysfreshgoodness.com MEGAN HILL

PIZZA BAR COTTO Ethan Stowell’s salumeria is heavy into cured meat, but the long list of Italian-style pizzas shines brightly.

Dough is fermented for four days before being stretched into thin rounds topped with the likes of anchovies, buffalo mozzarella, and fennel frond pesto.

The best pizzas here are completed with slivers of the silky, delicate artisanal cured meats Bar Cotto hangs its hat on, like salami, guanciale, and prosciutto. 1546 15th Ave., 838-8081, ethanstowellrestaurants.com MEGAN HILL DELANCEY So let’s get the pizza out of the way first. As a former New Yorker, this is the closest Seattle gets to NYC’s storied pies. It’s not just the thin crust, but that perfect amount of grease in the cheese (not running down your chin, but enough to leave lovely little orange dots of it on the plate). Add to that an interesting array of add-ons, like shaved fennel, padron chilies, and housemade sausage, and you’ve got a delicious pizza that’s never dull. But Delancey is much more than a pizza joint: It’s a neighborhood destination, off the beaten path in Ballard, where the servers rarely change—and where a rotating menu of seasonal salads or veggies always feels inspired and full of flavor, like Billy’s Summer Gem tomatoes with sheep’smilk feta, preserved Meyer lemon, and a basil shallot vinaigrette. On a recent visit, I had a delightfully crispy radicchio with a light breadcrumb topping—the only

021411938_2014_SRW_SeattleWeekly

P R O U D LY P R E S E N T

APRIL 6–10 & 13–17

2014

160 RESTAURANTS PARTICIPATING

WEEK

3

*Price is per person and does not include drinks, tax or tips. Value menu is not available on Fridays and Saturdays or for Sunday brunch.

THA NKS TO OUR PA RTN ER S

46 WEEKLY • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 46 SEATTLE Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 20142014

$28

O U R FA V O R I T E R E S TA U R A N T S radicchio I’ve ever had that wasn’t overly bitter. Cocktails, too, are special, and often come bearing housemade liquors. Seasonal fruit desserts shine here, but there’s always the bittersweet chocolate-chip cookie with a sprinkle of gray salt if you want to keep it simple. The only drawback: the long, also New York–like waits. 1415 N.W. 70th St., 838-1960, delancey seattle.com NICOLE SPRINKLE SERIOUS PIE In the entire Tom Douglas empire, this busy crowdpleaser may be his best restaurant, perhaps due to its specificity. A variety of the signature hand-shaped, oblong pizzas are available; top recommendation is the pie with soft-cooked free-range eggs, smoked prosciutto (or sometimes guanciale), pecorino sardo, and arugula. Serious Pie is an especially attractive option for downtown happy hour, with mini-pizzas priced at just $6 and selected glasses of wine or pints of beer only $5. A handful of starters and sweets can round out the meal. 316 Virginia St., 838-7388, tom douglas.com JAY FRIEDMAN VERACI PIZZA Proof you don’t always need a brick-and-mortar restaurant to craft great pizza. Veraci’s Italian-style pies have a home base in Ballard, but Veraci takes its show on the road to farmers markets, festivals, and parties around town, too. Each batch of dough is prepared by hand in a mixing bowl, achieving perfect chewiness, and baked in a wood-fired oven for a light char. Local ingredients like chanterelle mushrooms, Beecher’s cheese, and Zoe’s salami further set Veraci apart. 500 N.W. Market St., 525-1813, veracipizza.com MEGAN HILL WORLD PIZZA No one had heard of World Pizza when I suggested it for a recent lunch with co-workers. And yes, some were skeptical about it being “all vegetarian.” But I knew one bite is all it would take—and I was right.

To sum up how awesome World Pizza is, here’s what you need to know: The location is warm and inviting, the service is gracious, and the pizza is the cat’s meow. You must try the house special, the roasted red potato/garlic/rosemary/gorgonzola pie. Or anything with Field Roast pepperoni. With a mouthful of ’za, my colleague, SW reporter Ellis Conklin, said it best: “This isn’t, just, like, good vegetarian pizza. This is, like, really good pizza.” 672 S. King St., 682-4161, world pizza.tumblr.com GWENDOLYN ELLIOT

SEAFOOD ROCK CREEK Rock Creek is notable not only for its chef—Eric Donnelly, formerly of Toulouse Petit—but for a globalfocused menu that offers fin fish from all over the world (just in case you’re a little tired of salmon and halibut) like pompano, ono, and amberjack. Donnelly still claims, however, to work with sustainable fisheries throughout the globe. The flavors at this soaring space in upper Fremont are big and bold, and lean toward the South American. There’s a huge selection of small plates, my favorites among them the wild Mexican prawns with garlic, chili, and rosemary served over Anson Mills heirloom grits, and the oven-roasted Barron Point oysters that demand you slurp up every last drop of the toasted fennel, garlic, and pastis-flavored butter. If you don’t make a meal out of the small plates, there’s just as much to choose from for mains, like Neah Bay black cod served Provençale style or the Hawaiian ono with a sweet/tart date compote and lemon escarole. Wash it all down with a refreshing Pisco or bubbly-based cocktail. 4300 Fremont Ave. N., 557-7532, rockcreekseattle.com NICOLE SPRINKLE TANGLEWOOD SUPREME One of the top hidden gems in our local restaurant scene. Striving for sustainability, this “local seafood bistro” serves ocean treats that are fished with good practices. And while there’s a Northwest focus to the menu, plenty of Asian and Mediterranean influences also make the food interesting. The seven-course

tasting menu is a steal at $45, while happy hour brings bargain prices. Anytime you go, you can sit at the counter and watch the chefs in action. 3216 W. Wheeler St., 708-6235, tanglewoodsupreme.com JAY FRIEDMAN THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER Though you won’t ever find me waiting an hour for a seat at this hyper-trendy, nationally acclaimed Ballard oyster bar, there’s plenty to like. First of all, it’s small and bustling—the way popular oyster bars tend to be in New York, but weren’t in Seattle previously. While people are drawn in by the oysters, with usually at least six local varieties available on the half shell and fried, there are also daily-changing from-the-ocean items like grilled sardines, smoked trout, and scallop tartare. Besides seafood, local cheeses, inventive salads, and a beef dish or two make sure that there’s something for everyone. 4743 Ballard Ave. N.W., 3959227, thewalrusbar.com NICOLE SPRINKLE WESTWARD There’s very little not to love about Josh Henderson’s new seafood restaurant. It sits smack on the water, between a marina and a boat shop. It has a separate oyster bar with an oyster guru (David Leck, formerly of Taylor’s). It has outdoor seating, including a firepit fashioned out of oyster shells. It has a happy hour. It has an attached grocery, Little Gull, where boaters can dock and stock up on things like a charcuterie plate or an oyster knife. The interior is smartly, subtly nautical, but with playful quirks like oil paintings of Captain Stubing and Bill Murray in The Life Aquatic With Steve Zissou. It doesn’t get more Seattle than this. The food (mostly seafood but with some stellar non-aquatic choices, like a braised lamb shoulder with tzatziki sauce, herb salad, and housemade whole-wheat pita) is inflected with Mediterranean spices like za’atar, ras el hanout, and saffron and served with sauces like lebneh, avgolemono, and sesame-seed pistou. Don’t miss their Spanish sardine bruschetta with avocado, celery heart salsa verde, and pickled red onion, or the grilled Bering Sea octopus with toasted orzo yiouvetzi, saffron, preserved lemon, and aioli nero. 2501 N. Northlake Way, 5528215, westwardseattle.com NICOLE SPRINKLE

Chicken Souvlaki Platter:

includes a small greek salad and Galaktobureko for dessert

$12.95 Open Daily: 9am - 9pm Sat & Sun: 8am - 9pm 1924 N 45th St, Wallingford • 206-633-4141 www.cafenikolas.com • Free wi-fi and parking

SOUTHERN & BARBECUE BOURBON & BONES When you start a fried-chicken cult following, you’ve got a lot to live up to when you open your own establishment. Such is the case for Mike Law, who made the Wandering Goose’s Friday-night fried-chicken suppers legendary. Now he’s inside his custom-built 10 X10 smokehouse, where he smokes whole pigs, sausages, and bacon. Still serving the best fried chicken in Seattle (by the piece or the bucket), he also brings Seattleites his Lexington (Carolina)-style barbecue, brisket, and sinful Southern sides like mac ’n’ cheese, grits, baked beans with pork-belly bacon, smothered collard greens, and a vinegary coleslaw that’s my version of crack. The tiny roadhouse-style restaurant sports a taxidermied wild boar head, skulls, and jars of pickles and other pickled things. Order at the register and grab a seat—or better yet, bring it all back home and spread out the finger-lickin’ good feast.

4350 Leary Way N.W., 582-2241 NICOLE SPRINKLE EZELL’S CHICKEN World-famous as Oprah Winfrey’s favorite friedchicken restaurant (a signed picture of her hangs over the register), Ezell’s preternaturally tender chicken lickin’s will comfort you in your sadness and help you achieve spiritual transcendence in your moments of joy. The dinner rolls that come with every chicken meal are made from magically sweet fairy flour that melts in your mouth. When you want some down-home baked beans, mashed potatoes, or no-fuss fried chicken, Ezell’s is the only place to go. There’s a reason Esquire called it “The Most Life-Changing Fried Chicken in America.” 501 23rd Ave., 324-4141, and eight other locations. ezellschicken.com KELTON SEARS

VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 47 47

Thank you Seattle for six great burger flipping years!

- NOw serviNg -

One stop shopping, seven days a week.

Cash&Carry has everything you need from fresh produce to take out containers, fresh beef and pork to restaurant supplies and equipment.

- ALwAYs AvAiLABLe • Fresh Produce • Fresh Meat • Frozen Food • Cheese & Dairy • Bakery & Deli • Grocery & Beverages • Paper Products • Glassware & Small Wares • National & Private Label Brands

open daily

Mon. - Thurs.

8AM-9PM Fri. - saT.

8AM-10PM sunday 9AM-9PM

206-763-1347 9614 14th AVE SW just south of Roxbury in White Center aka RAT CiTy

www.zippysgiantburgers.com

Where Restau

7 days a week. stop by, we are open ger, seattle rocky - store Mana

rants Buy Bett

er ™

www.smartfoodservice.com - 800-662-4242

Room to breathe….even the wine!

Award winning restaurants: The Black Cypress, Swilly’s, South Fork Public House, Paradise Creek Brewery, Birch and Barley

Scan for your personal Pullman, Washington wine tour of the Palouse!

pullmanchamber.com 800-365-6948 48 Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2014

O U R FA V O R I T E R E S TA U R A N T S HONEY HOLE Situated between a high-end sex shop and a magickal pagan/occult store, Honey Hole might be the best barbecue joint in town. The cozy restaurant specializes in sandwiches—like The Bandit, juicy, sauce-slathered brisket topped with coleslaw and melted sharp cheddar—that will haunt your dreams.

Plus, Honey Hole has hands down the best French fries in Seattle—thick golden straws that are always perfectly crisp and never soggy or limp. And hey! You can pick up that vibrator and book of spells you’ve always wanted on your way out. 703 E. Pike St., 7091399, thehoneyhole.com KELTON SEARS THE WANDERING GOOSE If nothing else, every Seattleite must, at one point in this precious life, take in The Wandering Goose’s Fried Chicken Friday, where what is arguably the city’s best buttermilk fried chicken is served with table-slapping hot sauces and your choice of collard greens, mash, peas, grits, coleslaw, or mac and cheese. You might be tempted to return the next morning for the Hangtown Fry, a heart attack in a skillet sizzling with fried oysters, pork belly, and poached eggs, or one of their cheap, easy, and delectable biscuit sandwiches. 403 15th Ave. E., 323-9938, thewanderinggoose.com MARK S. BAUMGARTEN

SUSHI KISAKU Kisaku in Tangletown is the perfect neighborhood sushi restaurant, high in quality and reasonable in pricing. Order omakase (translation: “chef’s choice”), and chef Ryuichi Nakano will wow you with a fresh assortment of fish. Adventurous? Be sure to request shirako (cod sperm, with a creamy, custardy texture), amaebi (eat the sweet shrimp raw, and then the head and shell fried), and my personal favorite: hotate kombu jime (kelp-marinated scallop—ask for it, and Nakano will probably know I sent you!). Kisaku is also a popular destination for lunch. 2101 N. 55th St., 5459050, kisaku.com JAY FRIEDMAN MASHIKO At first glance, that platter of sushi that Hajime Sato serves you at Mashiko in West Seattle looks like any other. But take a closer look. And listen to the man as he explains what you’re eating. While you won’t find bluefin tuna or unagi (eel) here (Mashiko’s mission is sustainability), you will find fish that’s a little different, often local, and still delicious. At some sushi places, I just want to eat nigiri (raw fish with rice); at Mashiko, it’s interesting to see what ingredient combinations Sato will serve you. Order omakase (chef’s choice) and you might get geoduck and scallop ceviche with Asian pear, shirako with cucumbers, and white king salmon tartare topped with a quail egg. 4725 California Ave. S.W., 935-4339, sushiwhore.com JAY FRIEDMAN NIJO SUSHI BAR & GRILL Many people know Nijo for its excellent sushi. Fewer know that this sophisticated downtown spot also has arguably the best happy hour in town— in which you can get not only affordable sushi but an array of other tantalizing, Japanese-inspired dishes that you may come to love even more. Because happy hour stretches until 7 p.m., it’s easy to make a dinner of it, especially given the fulsome and varied small plates on the menu. Be sure to try the unusual octopus and potato dumplings, the exquisitely tender beef skewers, and the egg rolls, filled with plump chunks of avocado. Most dishes are under $6, as are the cocktails, which run toward the tropical with infusions of mango, coconut, and passion fruit. Budget $50 for two and you’ll have a feast. 83 Spring St., 340-8880, nijo sushi.com. NINA SHAPIRO SHIRO’S For the most traditional sushi in town, Shiro’s has been the longstanding mecca. The restaurant is named after sushi chef Shiro Kashiba, who studied

with culinary masters in Tokyo before moving to Seattle in 1967 and opening his namesake restaurant in 1994. Sure, there may be rolls and tempura at Shiro’s, but the way to go is omakase (chef’s choice): You’ll be treated to an array of sushi and traditional dishes reflecting the Northwest’s seasonal bounty, which may include buttery broiled black cod, briny uni with assorted sashimi, or deep-fried soft-shell crab. Delicate flavors and respect for ingredients remains a key focus at Shiro’s—and with so many sushi restaurants in town, it never hurts to stick to the time-tested. 2401 Second Ave., 443-9844, shiros.com TIFFANY RAN SUSHI KAPPO TAMURA This Eastlake spot is at once upscale and yet casual.

You can get a table, or instead sit at the counter—the place I prefer to sit at a sushi restaurant—where Taichi Kitamura holds court. Be sure to check out the fine selection of ippin ryori (small plates): You might find mustard greens and Washington albacore tuna with almond wasabi sauce, salads made with greens from the restaurant’s garden, and braised Wagyu beef shoulder with maitake mushrooms. After some ippins, go on and enjoy Kitamura’s outstanding sushi.

2968 Eastlake Ave. E., 547-0937, sushikappotamura. com JAY FRIEDMAN

VEGETARIAN CHACO CANYON, THRIVE Chaco Canyon is hands down Seattle’s best vegan, raw-centric restaurant. While Thrive is also popular with raw-food junkies and those with severe food allergies (its pesto-stuffed mushrooms and ocean rolls are to die for), I fell in love with Chaco Canyon’s hot sandwiches and cider. One thing both cafes have in common: great juice bars; get the Gold Rush at Thrive and the Zen Calm at Chaco Canyon. Thrive: 1026 N.E. 65th St., 525-0300, generationthrive.com.

Chaco Canyon: 4757 12th Ave. N.E., 522-6966; 3770 S.W. Alaska St., 937-8732, chacocanyoncafe.com GWENDOLYN ELLIOTT

The only authentic Chicago style deep dish pizza and Italian beef sandwiches in the Seattleland area!!

Created by Chef Benjamin Kulikowski, a Chicago native, Benito’s Chicago Eatery brings you the best Chicago culinary treats...Chicago-Style Hot Dogs, Deep Dish Pizza, Italian Beef Sandwiches, and more! With a commitment to locally sourced ingredients, Chef Ben will delight you with the best the Windy City has to offer!

Wed. & Thur. 11a-10p, Fri. & Sat. 11a-11p, & Sun. 11:30a-9p Dine-in, take-out, and delivery (call for delivery area) 6201 15th Ave. NW Seattle WA 98107 Ph#: 206.420.7032 Fax: 206.829.9058 Full menu at: www.benitoschicagoeatery.com

CHECK US OUT ON:

PLUM BISTRO Any restaurant that can unify omnivores and vegetarians through a dish called “Mac ’n’ Yease” is doing something right. It’s that dish—whose recipe remains highly guarded and was not included in owner Makini Howell’s recent cookbook—and others, like jerk-spiced tofu burgers, handmade pizzas, and smoky, charred vegetable sides, that keeps this bustling bistro packed night after night. From Tobey Maguire to India.Arie, it’s also your best bet for sighting health-conscious visiting celebrities. 1429 12th Ave., 838-5333, plumbistro.com GWENDOLYN ELLIOTT SUNLIGHT CAFÉ The U District’s Sunlight Café feels like your favorite aunt or grandma’s cozy eat-in kitchen, serving simple, hearty, comfort-style dishes. Everything’s vegetarian, so no matter what you order, you know someone’s watching out for your health, too. I like Sunlight’s breakfasts and brunches the best—the perfect times to bask in the sunlight that streams through the wallsized windows and linger over a ginger-sesame tofu scramble before heading outside to start the day. 6403 Roosevelt Way N.E., 522-9060, sunlightcafevegetarian. com GWENDOLYN ELLIOTT TRAVELER’S THALI HOUSE Vegetarian restaurants are hard to come by on Beacon Hill, so don’t pass by this one. It accommodates vegan and vegetarian preferences graciously, and offers plenty of daily specials along with its extensive general menu. If you’re a first-time diner, don’t worry about being overwhelmed with options; just ask for the server who looks like Neil Young, and he’ll expertly steer you toward a dish you didn’t even know you wanted. Save room for dessert: The fabulous Indian sweets come from Renton’s Pabla Indian Cuisine. 2524 Beacon Ave. S., 329-6260, travelers thalihouse.com. GWENDOLYN ELLIOTT

Lunch Specials Everyday 11:00am to 3:00pm

Happy Hour

Everyday 2:00pm to 7:00pm in the Bar

Sunday is Kids’ day!

Children 10 and under eat for .99¢, with an adult purchase Plaza Garibaldi • 129 1st Ave. N. • Seattle, WA 98109 • 206-397-4088

VORACIOUS DINING DINING GUIDE • SEATTLE VORACIOUS GUIDE2014 2014 • SeattleWEEKLY Weekly 49 49

o u r f a v o r i t e r e s ta u r a n t s

r e s ta u r a n t a d v e r t i s e r i n d e x BALLARD Benito’s, Chicago-Style, 49 Blue Glass, Global Comfort Food, 38 Cash & Carry, Grocery, 48 el Camion, Mexican, 33 Plaka estiatorio, Greek, 40 senor Moose, Mexican, 38 veraci Pizza, Pizza, 33 BELLTOWN five Point Café, 24-Hr Diner / Dive Bar, 10 ‘ohana, Hawaiian / Japanese, 41 spur, Gastropub, 03 CAPITOL HILL La Bete, Northwest, 09 Capitol Cider, Local & Gluten-free, 18 Lost Lake Café, 24-Hour Diner / Lounge, 10 Manhattan restaurant, Steakhouse, 09 the old sage, Urban Smokehouse, 03 Poquitos, Mexican, 08 tavern Law, New American, 03 von trapp’s, Beerhall, 08 DOWNTOWN farestart, Varies by Chef, 24 fonte, Café & Wine Bar, 39 Hard rock Café, American, 14 Morton’s, Steakhouse, 23 nijo sushi Bar & Grill, Sushi, 32 sweet iron Waffles, Waffles, 45 the triple Door, Lounge, 12 urbane, Modern Northwest, 04 Wild Ginger, Pan Asian, 12

EASTSIDE agave Cocina & tequilas, Mexican, 45 Cash & Carry, Grocery, 48 Lucky strike, American, 47 Lunchbox Laboratory, Burgers, 51 oma Bap, Korean, 38 PCC natural Markets, Grocery, 31 uwajimaya, Grocery, 39 Wild Ginger, Pan Asian, 12 EDMONDS / EVERETT Cash & Carry, Grocery, 48 PCC natural Markets, Grocery, 31 the new Mexicans, Mexican, 42 FREMONT Ballroom, American, 41 norm’s eatery and alehouse, Bar & Grill, 43 PCC natural Markets, Grocery, 31 Ponti seafood Grill, Seafood, 31 GEORGETOWN Brass tacks, Gastropub, 11 GREEN LAKE Greenlake Bar & Grill, American, 51 nell’s, New Northwest, 42 PCC natural Markets, Grocery, 31 GIG HARBOR / BREMERTON Bremerton Bar & Grill, American, 51 Cash & Carry, Grocery, 48 Lunchbox Laboratory, Burgers, 51

NORTH SEATTLE el Camion, Mexican, 33 Lake forest Bar & Grill, American, 51 PCC natural Markets, Grocery, 31 PHINNEY / GREENWOOD el Chupacabra, Mexican, 41 Gorgeous George’s, Mediterranean, 42 PIKE PLACE MARKET athenian seafood & Bar, Northwest, 43 Lowell’s restaurant, Northwest, 02 Café Campagne, French, 23 Maximilien in the Market, French, 15 Matt’s in the Market, New Northwest, 05 radiator Whiskey, Modern Comfort, 05 PIONEER SQUARE Caffe umbria, Italian Cafe, 11 QUEEN ANNE Laredos Grill, Tex Mex, 29 Paragon, Bar & Grill, 15 Pho viet ahn, Vietnamese, 42 Plaza Garibaldi, Mexican, 49 seattle Center armory, Variety, 06 teatro Zinzanni, Dinner Theatre, 44 RENTON / TUKWILA Cash & Carry, Grocery, 48 uwajimaya, Grocery, 39

SEWARD PARK / RAINIER Cash & Carry, Grocery, 48 Mutual fish, Fish Market, 43 Hong Kong, Chinese / Dim Sum, 32 PCC natural Markets, Grocery, 31 SODO Cash & Carry, Grocery, 48 el Camion, Mexican, 33 SOUTH LAKE UNION / EASTLAKE eastlake Bar & Grill, American, 51 Lunchbox Laboratory, Burgers, 51 row House, Comfort Food, 29 serafina & Cicchetti, Italian, 18 siam thai Cuisine, Thai, 24 WALLINGFORD / U DISTRICT agua verde, Mexican, 45 fainting Goat, Gelato, 42 nikolas Café, Mediterranean, 47 WEST SEATTLE el Chupacabra, Mexican, 41 PCC natural Markets, Grocery, 31 stuffed Cakes, Sweets, 38 Zippy’s Giant Burgers, Burgers, 48 DAY TRIP Prima Bistro, French Bistro, Langley, 29 Pullman Chamber, Wine Tasting, Pullman, 48 MORE FUN Bumbu truck, Indonesian Food Truck, 43 seattle restaurant Week, Event, 46 Jemil’s Big easy, Cajun Food Truck, 42 LikeYourLiqour.com, Craft Spirit Website, 16

INTERNATIONAL DISTRICT new Hong Kong, Chinese / Dim Sum, 32 uwajimaya, Grocery, 39

n O r t H W e s t l i b at i O n a d v e r t i s e r i n d e x NW BEERS & CIDERS presented by Washington State Beer Commission

2 towns Ciderhouse, Corvallis, OR, 37 99 Bottles, Federal Way, 37 alpenfire Cider, Port Townsend, 36 Big time Brewing Co., U. District, 34 Bottleworks, Wallingford, 34 Boundary Bay Brewery, Bellingham, 35 Brouwer’s Café, Fremont, 34 Burgundian, Wallingford, 34 Chuckanut Brewery, Bellingham, 34 Dick’s Brewing Co., Centralia, 35 eaglemount Wine & Cider, Pt. Townsend, 36 fiddler’s inn, Wedgwood, 34 finnriver farm & Cidery, Chimacum, 36 fort George Brewery, Astoria, 34

full throttle Bottles, Georgetown, 36 Goodlife Brewing, Bend, OR, 37 Hale’s ales, Ballard, 36 Hopvine Pub, Capitol Hill, 34 Hopworks urban Brewery, Portland, OR, 37 Kulshan Brewing Co., Bellingham, 36 Latona Pub, Green Lake, 34 Malt and vine, Redmond, 37 Maritime Pacific Brewing Co, Ballard, 36 McMenamins, Queen Anne & Mill Creek, 36 Mountain Homebrew & Wine, Kirkland, 34 outlander Brewery & Pub, Fremont, 37 the Pine Box, Capitol Hill, 37 Puget sound Brewery tours, Various Tours, 36 Pyramid Brewery, SODO, 34 schilling & Company, Fremont, 36

50 Seattle Weekly • VORACIOUS DINING GUIDE 2014

scuttlebutt Brewing Co., Everett, 34 six arms, Capitol Hill, 36 sound Brewery, Poulsbo, 35 tug inn, West Seattle, 37 World of Beer, Capitol Hill & Renton, 35 NW DISTILLERIES & MIXOLOGISTS

Bainbridge organic Distillers, Bainbridge Island, 17 Bar Code, Bellevue, 17 the Barrel thief, Fremont, 16 Brass tacks, Georgetown, 17 Dry fly Distilling, Spokane, 16 JP trodden Distilling, Woodinville, 16 rob roy, Belltown, 17 tatoosh Distillery, Seattle, 13

NW WINES & WINE TASTING Butler transportation & Woodinville

Wine tours, Woodinville, 25-28 Mark ryan Winery, Woodinville, 20 Maryhill Winery, Goldendale, 20 olympic Peninsula Wineries, Peninsula, 20 Port Gardner Bay Winery, Everett, 20 treveri Cellars, Yakima, 20 Woodhouse Wine estates, Woodinville, 20 Woodinville tourism, 25-28

A LWAYS EN JOY R ESPO N SIB LY.

©2013 Stella Artois® Cidre Premium Cider, produced for Stella Artois Cidre Company, Baldwinsville, NY 13027