PMQ Pizza Magazine December 2018

PIZZA MAGAZINE THE WORLD'S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA | PMQ.COM | PIZZATV.COM

December 2018

While They Eat Your Pizza, We’ll Promote Your Brand

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While They Eat Your Pizza, We’ll Promote Your Brand Today’s pizza boxes not only protect your food, but they’re also brand ambassadors. Why not leverage these roving billboards with high-impact graphics and messages? Use your logo, menus, seasonal promotions, contests, coupons, games and more to advertise new offers and promote your brand.

Now you can make sure your messages go everywhere your customers do.

To learn more, go to westrock.com/pizza.

©2018 WestRock Company. All rights reserved. WESTROCK and the WestRock logo are trademarks of WestRock Company and its subsidiaries and affiliates.

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December 2018

PIZZA MAGAZINE THE WORLD'S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA | PMQ.COM | PIZZATV.COM

PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | Volume 22, Issue 10

December 2018

The Pizza Industry’s Business Monthly | PMQ.com Dec2018cover.indd 1

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AS SEEN ON PIZZATV.COM MARK TODD TALKS CHEESE BLENDS According to Mark “The Cheese Dude” Todd, cheese is the secondmost requested additional topping for a pizza (after pepperoni).

In this interview with PizzaTV, Todd offers tips for improving your pizza with artisan cheese blends. Learn how a couple of handfuls of blue cheese or smoked mozzarella can transform your pizza’s flavor profile and set your pizzeria apart from the competition.

P I Z Z AT V. CO M / V I D E O/C H E E S E D U D E

If you’d like to contribute to PizzaTV.com and our Roku channel, send links to your best video content to info@PizzaTV.com.

EXCLUSIVELY ON PMQ.COM

IMPACT HIRING DRIVES SUCCESS FOR MOD PIZZA Impact hiring—the practice of offering jobs to ex-offenders, the disabled, addicts and others who normally struggle to find work— may seem risky, but it has helped make MOD Pizza the fastestgrowing restaurant chain in the country.

KEEPING THE PIECE IN CHICAGO Piece Brewery and Pizzeria introduced New Haven-style pizza to Chicago in 2001. Jonathan Porter, owner of Chicago Pizza Tours, interviews Piece owner Bill Jacobs about pizza, marketing to sports fans, and collaborations with chefs from other Windy City restaurants.

P M Q . CO M / I M PA C T H I R I N G P M Q . CO M / KE E P I N G T H E P I E C E

THE TOP 10 OLD-FORGE STYLE PIZZERIAS From Arcaro and Genell to Maroni’s and Elio G’s, lifelong Northeast Pennsylvania resident and pizza blogger Jim Mirabelli of NEPAPizzaReview.com goes on a quest for the best Old Forge-style pizzerias in the “pizza capital of the world.”

P M Q . CO M /O L D F O R G E P I Z Z A

7 WAYS TO KEEP PIZZERIA SALES HOT IN COLD WEATHER Winter wonderlands may look pretty, but they’re not so good for business. Fortunately, pizzeria owners can offset the disadvantages of bad weather with some smart marketing, and now is the time to start making your plans for the cold winter months ahead.

P M Q . CO M / W I N T E R T I M E M A R KE T I N G

6 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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IN THIS ISSUE

DECEMBER FEATURES ON T COV HE ER

36

Compiling this year’s state-of-theindustry study, three trends stood out from the rest: the importance of authentic, quality ingredients; technological innovations; and the impact of the younger generation.

PMQ.COM/DETROITTWIST

28 Detroit-Style: Motown’s Favorite Pizza

Big 62 The Cheese

72

Just Wing It

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IN THIS ISSUE

26

Chef’s Corner: Shawn Randazzo and the Detroit Twist

PMQ.COM/DETROITTWIST

In Lehmann’s Terms: Quick Queries

Think Tank: Breakfast Pizzas

16

Accounting for Your Money: Purchasing Assets

20

18

Pizza Hall of Fame: 42nd Street Pizza

98

P I Z Z AT V. C O M / V I D E O /4 2 N D S T R E E T

IN EVERY ISSUE 6

Online @ PMQ.com

22

Moneymakers

12

From the Editor

82

Product Spotlight

14

From the Inbox

83

The Pizza Exchange

Check out our digital and tablet editions for bonus video and multimedia content.

Visit PMQ.com/digital to view the digital edition, or download our tablet app at iTunes, Google Play and Amazon.com.

10 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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TRIM

FROM THE MANAGING EDITOR

LIVE

Bill DeJournett Managing Editor

THE 2019 PIZZA POWER REPORT Happy December, pizza nation! Addressing our readers as “pizza nation” has become a “thing” with me, and I thought I would delve into that further. Oxford Dictionaries defines “nation” as “a large body of people united by common descent, history, culture or language, inhabiting a particular state or territory.” As anyone who has spent any amount of time in the pizza industry will attest, pizza is definitely its own culture.

One of the things I love to do here at PMQ is to have friends come tour our offices. A couple months back, I invited one of my good friends to stop by and check things out. After showing her our offices and test kitchen, her response was, “I can’t believe pizza is such a huge thing!”

Well, pizza is a huge thing, as our 2019 Pizza Power Report in this issue attests. It’s the industry standard for trends and statistics in the pizza industry, and we are delighted to bring you this again. Also in this issue: Our pizza styles expert and former Detroit-area resident, Liz Barrett Foster, gives us a tutorial on Detroit-style pizza. Tracy Morin tells us how it’s easy to be cheesy in her article exploring trends around one of

the most important components of pizzas. Yours truly delves into the wacky world of wings—including the history of the buffalo wing and, specifically, some of the crazy new flavors restaurants are coming up with.

As a special treat, our art director Eric Summers has painted one of the finest pieces of art ever to grace the cover of PMQ. An homage to Norman Rockwell’s iconic Freedom From Want, he has included members of the PMQ staff. Publisher Steve Green and Co-Publisher Linda Green serve up a holiday pizza feast to, counterclockwise from top left to top right, Chris Green, Tom Boyles, Blake Harris, SarahBeth Wiley Smith, Daniel Lee Perea, Brian Hernandez, Heather Cray, Brandy Pinion, me, and the artist himself, Eric Summers.

December is home of two of the biggest pizza nights of the year—Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve. Pizza makers of the world: Start your engines!

PIZZA MAGAZINE THE WO RL D'S AU THO RITY O N PIZZA | PMQ.CO M | P IZZATV.CO M

December 2018

ON THE COVER: We take a (PM)cue from Norman Rockwell with our December cover, highlighting the importance of pizza and family. Illustration by Eric Summers.

A Publication of PMQ, Inc. 662-234-5481 Volume 22, Issue 10 December 2018 ISSN 1937-5263 Publisher Steve Green, sg@pmq.com ext. 123 Co-Publisher Linda Green, linda.pmq@gmail com ext. 121 Managing Editor Bill DeJournett, bill@pmq.com ext. 130 Editor at Large Liz Barrett, liz@pmq.com Senior Copy Editor Tracy Morin, tracy@pmq.com Consulting Editor Rick Hynum, rick@pmq.com

International Correspondent Missy Green, missy@pmq.com Art Director Eric Summers, eric@pmq.com ext. 134 Creative Director Sarah Beth Wiley, sarahbeth@pmq.com ext. 135 Senior Media Producer Daniel Lee Perea, dperea@pmq.com ext. 139 Social Media Manager Heather Cray, heather@pmq.com ext. 137 Video Editor Blake Harris, blake@pmq.com ext. 136 Chief Financial Officer Shawn Brown, shawn@pmq.com Test Chef/USPT Coordinator Brian Hernandez, brian@pmq.com ext. 129

ADVERTISING

PMQ INTERNATIONAL

Sales Director Linda Green, linda.pmq@gmail com ext. 121

PMQ China Yvonne Liu, yvonne@pmq.com

Senior Account Executive Tom Boyles, tom@pmq.com ext. 122

PMQ Russia Vladimir Davydov, vladimir@pmq.com

Account Executive Chris Green, chris@pmq.com ext. 125

PMQ Pizza Magazine 605 Edison St. • Oxford, MS 38655 662.234.5481 • 662.234.0665 Fax

Sales Assistant Brandy Pinion, brandy@pmq.com ext. 127

PMQ Pizza Magazine (ISSN #1937-5263) is published 10 times per year.

Cost of U.S. subscription is $25 per year. International $35. Periodical postage pricing paid at Oxford, MS. Additional mailing offices at Bolingbrook, IL. Postmaster: Send address changes to: PMQ Pizza Magazine, PO Box 9, Cedar Rapids, IA 52406-9953.

Opinions expressed by the editors and contributing writers are strictly their own, and are not necessarily those of the advertisers. All rights reserved. No portion of PMQ may be reproduced in whole or part without written consent.

12 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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IN LEHMANN’S TERMS

QUICK QUERIES Tom “The Dough Doctor” Lehmann provides rapid-fire responses to operators’ minor dilemmas.

Q A

I tried making my pizza dough using malt syrup rather than the usual white sugar but, over time, my dough became very sticky. Is there a solution?

You are most likely using a diastatic malt syrup, which is enzyme-active and is nothing more than a malt-flavored sugar syrup. The diastatic malt syrup contains amylase enzymes, which hydrate a portion of the starch into sugar, and that’s responsible for the stickiness you’re experiencing.

Check the product label to see if it mentions anything about being diastatic or enzyme-active. If so, replace it with a nondiastatic/non-enzyme-active malt syrup.

I see that some operators add the flour first to the mixing bowl, while others add the water first. Does it really make a difference which is added first?

Yes. When water is added first, you get more consistent hydration of the flour, which reduces mixing time. In tests that I did many years ago, I found that by adding water first, the total dough mixing time was reduced, on average, by a full minute. When we were making doughs with very short mixing times, such as cracker-type doughs, the flour was always more uniformly hydrated when water was added to the bowl first.

I am using a planetary-type mixer, and the dough keeps climbing up on the hook, where it doesn’t get any kneading action at all. What can I do, aside from stopping the mixer to cut the dough off the hook?

This is a common problem with the type of hook that’s referred to, because of its shape, as a J hook. The problem is usually worse when mixing very small or large doughs, or when mixing at low speed. Try reducing the dough size by about 25%, and mix the dough at medium speed if possible. In the case of small dough sizes, the dough just wraps onto the hook and rides around the bowl, with the hook getting little or no mixing action. In this case, you will need to increase the dough size and again mix at medium speed. You might also try oiling the top 1/3 of the dough hook. If these tactics fail to address the problem, your only option will be to see if you can buy a reverse spiral dough arm for your mixer. With this, you can mix any reasonably sized dough, and the mixing action will be more efficient, resulting in shorter mixing times, as well as improved consistency between doughs.

I attended one of your presentations some time ago, and I remember you saying that all-purpose flour should not be used for pizzerias. Why is that?

I’m not against using all-purpose flour, but it tends to be quite variable between different manufacturers. Therefore, it’s difficult to say with certainty how any one brand will perform when making pizzas. I like to look at hotel and restaurant flours as the lower end of the strength spectrum and work up from there. Those flours are generally equal between different manufacturers, just as their bread and high-gluten flours are consistent. This means that you have

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the ability to change brands, knowing that there won’t be any huge surprises in store for you.

We have been experimenting with making cracker-type doughs and are seeing a lot of inconsistencies between them. Is this common with cracker doughs, which are lowabsorption with a short mixing time?

No, it is not common. If you are using instant dry yeast (IDY) in the dough formulation, this might be where the inconsistency is coming from. While IDY is a great product, it does need to be used correctly. In a cracker-type dough with less than 50% absorption and only about two minutes of total mixing time, this would not be the best of conditions to add the IDY in its dry form. Instead, try putting the IDY into a small amount of 95˚ to 100˚F water, stirring to achieve a complete suspension of the yeast. Pour the yeast suspension into the cold water in the mixing bowl. By doing this, you will see more consistent results between the dough—and possibly a better finished crust, too.

different dough sizes with ease. However, there are some issues with spiral mixers. They’re dedicated dough mixers, and few have an attachment hub, so they can’t do double duty—for example, mixing sauce or powering an attachment for slicing, dicing or shredding. Some have a removable bowl, which is a nice feature to have, as is a plastic drain plug in the bowl. (If I had my way, every spiral mixer would have a removable plastic drain plug in the bottom of the bowl to facilitate cleaning.

Without one, you will need to bail the water out of the bowl as if you were in a sinking rowboat.)

Then there is the issue of speeds. Some spiral mixers have only one speed, while others have two speeds, and some even have a reverse speed. I’d opt for a two-speed model, but if that wasn’t an option, I would be just as happy with a single-speed machine.

Finally, if you’re thinking of upgrading to a spiral mixer, consider keeping your old mixer for light-duty “retirement” chores, like mixing your sauce and powering your attachment. Then you’ll have the best of both worlds!

I’ve heard and read that spiral mixers work really well for mixing pizza dough. What is your opinion?

I really like them for mixing pizza dough. They’re strong mixers, nearly bulletproof in all aspects of longevity and operation, and they will effectively mix a wide range of

Tom Lehmann was the longtime director of bakery assistance for the American Institute of Baking (AIB) and is now a pizza industry consultant.

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THE THINK TANK

THE MOST IMPORTANT MEAL OF THE DAY Pizzeria owners share their recipes for breakfast pizzas.

Jen: I have to make some breakfast pizzas for an order this week. Anyone want to share some ideas? jerseydevil1977: Eggs, bacon, chorizo sausage and cheddar

cheese, with Frank’s Red Hot or salsa. Just a thought. ddariel20: Use some whipped cream cheese or cheddar cheese sauce for the base, and then top with scrambled eggs, bacon topping, and whatever else you like. Diced peppers, onions and mushrooms with breakfast sausage is delicious too.

Steve.L: Frittata could be one more addition to that. Or try a pizza with prosciutto, sliced tomatoes, green peppers, olives, feta, scrambled eggs on top, black pepper and oregano, with regular pizza sauce. It was a local favorite in our shop. We scrambled our eggs but cooked them less than halfway, then added them on top and cooked the rest in the oven. The Rustica is another one: scrambled eggs, prosciutto, sausage, fresh baby spinach, garlic, ricotta, and Parmesan, with regular pizza sauce.

Gunner: Try picante sauce (medium), cheddar cheese, scrambled egg, bacon and sausage, or with olive oil and cinnamon sugar on the outside edge of the crust. sparrowspizza: For our large (14”) breakfast pizza, I crack open four eggs in a bowl, then mix in 8 ounces of mozzarella, mix well and spread out on the pizza. Top with ham, sausage, bacon and some cheddar. It’s good! mike450r: Try cracking some eggs on top. If you get it just right, you get drippy eggs on top of the pizza. I did this with a chorizo and peppadew pepper breakfast pizza. Any other time, I have done it like sparrowspizza, using raw scrambled eggs for the base, then added my favorite breakfast toppings. Some maple syrup to finish doesn’t hurt, either. bodegahwy: Years ago, we did it pretty much this way too when we served breakfast pizza at our slice location. We used four eggs and 10 ounces of mozzarella on a 16” pie. Cook as normal.

We started with our regular pizza sauce, then added the eggs/ mozzarella combination and topped it with a variety of things, including ham, jalapeño, mushrooms, black olives, chopped garlic, bacon, onions—you get the idea!.

Get answers to your most perplexing problems and swap tips and ideas with the experts in PMQ’s Think Tank, the pizza industry’s oldest and most popular online forum. Register for free at thinktank.pmq.com. (Member posts have been edited here for clarity.)

T HI N KTAN K.P M Q.COM

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Find yo y your ur Ispirazione Italiana

What's our Italian Inspiration? It’s bringing Italy, the most

food-centric country in the world, to the biggest melting pot in America: Las Vegas!

Everyone here is from somewhere else. So, Metro Pizza set out to become everybody’s hometown pizzeria by combining regional styles and flavors with authentic ingredients like Galbani® Premio Mozzarella—from Italy’s #1 cheese brand.

It’s the perfect way to give our customers a taste of Italy and a taste of home, too.

—JOHN ARENA (CO-FOUNDER) & CHRIS DECKER (CHEF/PARTNER), METRO PIZZA

Find more Italian Inspiration and John & Chris’s videos at GalbaniPro.com. ©2018 Lactalis American Group, Inc., Buffalo, NY 14220. Galbani is a ® of Egidio Galbani S.r.l. All Rights Reserved.

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ACCOUNTING FOR YOUR MONEY

PURCHASING ASSETS PRIOR TO DECEMBER 31, 2018?

By Michael J. Rassmussen

Q A

Should I buy more equipment under the new tax law before the year ends?

The short answer is, as always, it depends. But here are some basics about the new tax law.

First, businesses can immediately expense more under the new law, which increases the maximum deduction from $500,000 to $1 million on Section 179 property (section179.org). It also increased the phase-out threshold from $2 million to $2.5 million. So any tangible property used for business purposes (restaurant furniture, fixtures and equipment, for example) placed in service

by December 31, 2018 will qualify for these increased thresholds.

Second, qualified improvement property can be included as Section 179 property. Qualified improvement is any improvement to a building’s interior. However, certain improvements that alter the internal structure of the building don’t count. Also, the changes to the property must have occurred after December 31, 2017. This is good news if you have some interior improvements to make.

However, qualified improvement property is no longer eligible for bonus depreciation. In other words “Do not pass go” if we were playing the game of Monopoly. The IRS is being challenged as we speak to retroactively change this law back to the existing law, which was more favorable. Get advice for any remodel expenditures anticipated prior to the end of 2018.

Finally, the new law increases the bonus depreciation percentage from 50% to 100% for qualified property acquired and placed in service between September 27, 2017 and January 1, 2023. Qualified property that was

acquired before September 28, 2017, and placed in service before January 1, 2018, remains at 50%. Also, the criteria for property to qualify for 100% bonus depreciation was expanded.

Remember that the IRS can always collapse all types of transactions into one. And the intent to avoid versus minimize taxation makes a big difference.

Your takeaway from this article is to pick up the phone and call your CPA or accountant and have the following words explained and how they impact your restaurant

by December 31, 2018: new law, Section 179 property, qualified improvement property, and bonus depreciation.

Ensure these four phrases are addressed prior to the end of the tax year.

You can visit us at rasmussentaxgroup.com for additional insight into restaurant specific tax strategies, accounting and technology programs. To ensure compliance with requirements imposed by the IRS, we inform you that any U.S. federal tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments) is not intended or written to be used, and it cannot be used for the purpose of (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter addressed herein. You should seek advice based on your particular circumstances from an independent advisor.

Michael J. Rasmussen is the owner of Rasmussen Tax Group (rasmussentaxgroup.com) in Conway, Arkansas.

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MONEYMAKERS

AN ACT OF GENUINE KINDNESS Dalton Shaffer became America’s most famous delivery guy overnight when he drove hundreds of miles to bring pizzas to a man dying of cancer—even though his shop doesn’t deliver. But the 18-year-old Shaffer didn’t do it for publicity: He’s just a nice guy. Shaffer, who works for Steve’s Pizza in Battle Creek, Michigan, took a call one evening in October from a relative of Rich Morgan, an Indianapolis man who had only weeks—perhaps even days—to live due to salivary gland cancer. The relative wanted the pizzeria, Morgan’s longtime favorite, to send a text or a card. Instead, Shaffer made up two of Morgan’s preferred pies and set out on a 225-mile trek—after closing hours—to drop them off. The gesture earned national headlines after Morgan’s wife, Julie, posted about it on Facebook. Shaffer told the Lansing State Journal he’d hoped his act of kindness would be a “kept-quiet kind of thing,” adding, “I wasn’t going to tell anyone about it.” Julie Morgan said on Facebook that she was “beyond overwhelmed and humbled by this act of genuine kindness. Dalton brought our family so much joy—and the best pizza in the world—at a really difficult time.”

An employee of Steve’s Pizza in Battle Creek, Michigan, drove 225 miles to deliver pies to the family of Rich Morgan (far left), who was dying of cancer at his home in Indianapolis.

QUICK TIP 1

MAKE MONDAY A FUN DAY Mondays are bad, but Mondays in January ought to be illegal. Since that’s never going to happen, turn Mondays into Fun Days with special menus, fundraisers and community events. Offer a free dessert with a meal or host an Industry Night for restaurant workers who have the day off.

THE FARMER’S BEST FRIENDS Locally owned pizzerias don’t get any more local than Red Tractor Pizza in Bozeman, Montana. When owner Adam Paccione, who sources most of his ingredients from farmers in the region, wanted to create a mural on the side of his restaurant to raise awareness about the local food movement, the entire community pitched in to help.

It started with a crowdfunding campaign, and artists and students turned out to bring the mural to vivid, eye-catching life. “It’s a wonderful piece of art that Bozeman has never seen before,” Paccione says. “The community has been helping us paint it the whole way— from the high school art club and an 8th grade class of students to friends and complete strangers. It’s been wonderful!” The mural is a collaboration with Gallatin Valley Farm to School, a nonprofit that connects schools with local growers to promote healthy eating.

A community-funded mural project at Red Tractor Pizza helps fulfill owner Adam Paccione’s mission of “compassionate entrepreneurship,” using his pizza business as a base for philanthropic work in Bozeman.

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MONEYMAKERS

MEET THE GRANDPARENTS Nonno and Nonna Pagliai, the grandparents of the current co-owners of Pagliai’s Pizza in Johnston, Iowa, died years ago, but customers can still get their pictures taken with the Italian immigrants—and might even win free pizza for doing it. Pagliai’s honored the revered ancestors this fall with a promo that invited customers to pose for photos with a life-sized cardboard cutout of the late John and Katrina Pagliai. Customers could then text their photo to Pagliai’s to be entered into a weekly drawing for free pies from early October through Thanksgiving. The couple’s sons, Sam and Armond, opened the first Pagliai’s location—serving what they called “tomato tarts”—in Ames, Iowa, in 1957. Additional Pagliai’s locations can now be found in Ohio, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky and Minnesota.

Winning free pizza was as easy as posing for a snapshot during a fall promo at Pagliai’s Pizza in Johnston, Iowa.

QUICK TIP 2

PIZZA IS FOR LOVERS According to the Retail Advertising and Marketing Association, 34% of consumers who celebrate Valentine’s Day will go out to eat at a restaurant. Plan your promotion now and start advertising it in January. Dream up a special menu for sweethearts (heart-shaped pizzas are always a hit), and remember dessert!

A TASTE OF DEMOCRACY Ian’s Pizza by the Slice, with two locations in Madison, Wisconsin, found something Republicans and Democrats, along with pizza lovers of all political persuasions, could agree on: the deliciousness of pizza.

In a November 6 promotion, Ian’s offered a free slice of Mac n’ Cheese Pizza to customers who showed up wearing an “I Voted” sticker (or any sticker at all, since state law prohibits offers that incentivize voting). Zach Chapman, Ian’s marketing director, says the restaurant has a history of encouraging political engagement. When throngs of activists descended on Madison in 2011 in support of collective bargaining rights for public employees, Ian’s gave out thousands of free slices, many of them donated by pro-labor advocates around the world. “A lot of people still think of us as supporters of government participation, so we felt like an event on Election Day was in line with what we’re known for,” Chapman says. All told, the company gave away 3,951 slices at its two Madison locations on November 6.

In addition to offering free Election Day slices on November 6, Ian’s by the Slice shortened its employees’ shifts to ensure they could all get out and vote.

24 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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THE CHEF’S CORNER

Shawn Randazzo zesting up his “Detroit Twist” pie at the Pizza Pizzazz Competition in Columbus, OH.

Wa Herna tch Brian ndez’s in-dep interv th with S iew hawn pmq.c om/ra at ndazz o

SHAWN RANDAZZO | DETROIT STYLE PIZZA CO. Shawn Randazzo, master of the Motor City pizza, teaches you all you need to know about Detroit-style pies so you don’t have to hear it through the grapevine. | By Brian Hernandez Detroit is an industrious city famous for music and cars.

However, some still don’t realize that it is also famous for pizza.

Detroit-style pizza is a unique style of pie denoted by its thick and airy crust, signature rectangular shape, and caramelized cheese surrounding the edges, cooked in a pan originally used in motor vehicle factories to catch oil and scrap parts. This style of pizza has been around since 1946 but has only recently started to rise to prominence across the country.

With more independents offering a type of Detroit-style pizza recently, I wanted to talk with someone I knew could shed some light on this delicious take on pizza. I reached out to Detroit’s favorite son—and, no, I’m not talking about Eminem or Robocop, I’m talking about Shawn Randazzo of Detroit Style Pizza Co. After numerous competition wins with his pizza, Randazzo took it upon himself to start spreading the word of this Motor City staple. Having learned from the originators of the style, he has made it his mission to bring knowledge of this pillowy pie to any pizzaiolo willing to listen.

And he was kind enough to sit down in the Chef ’s Corner and share a recipe that can be recreated in your home or restaurant.

“In my opinion, there are five basic rules to follow to make a true Detroit-style pizza: 1. The shape—Must be a rectangular pie, made in a deep pan.

2. Hydration—Should be 70% or more to contribute to the airiness and crispiness.

3. The sauce—Goes on top. Some call it an ‘Upside-down pizza.’

4. The cheese—Brick cheese is key for that flavor and caramelization.

5. Thickness—About 1½” to be true Detroit style.”

—Shawn Randazzo

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THE DETROIT TWIST DOUGH INGREDIENTS:

PIZZA INGREDIENTS:

1¾ c. 85˚F water ½ c. semolina flour 2 tsp. sugar 2 tsp. instant dry yeast 3½ c. bread or bakers flour 2 tsp. salt

1 tsp. dry oregano 24 oz. shredded cheese blend, preferably a 50/50 blend of brick cheese and low-moisture mozzarella 1 red onion 2 roma tomatoes 4 oz. fresh arugula 1 tsp. lemon zest (optional) Lemon Oil Dressing/Lemon Vinaigrette (see recipe below)

DOUGH INSTRUCTIONS: Add water, semolina flour, sugar and yeast to the mixing bowl. Mix and let sit for about 15 minutes. Add the bread/bakers flour and salt to the mixing bowl. Mix all ingredients on the lowest speed for one minute. Scrape down the sides of bowl with a plastic dough scraper/ divider. Mix on low/medium speed for three minutes. Remove the dough from the mixing bowl and divide in two. Each dough ball should weigh 17.5 to 18 ounces. Coat the dough balls with oil and refrigerate, covered, for 24 hours.

(Doing this provides more flavor and better texture. If you prefer, you can use the fresh dough right away.) Place the dough in a pan and press out with 8 to 10 presses. Let it rest in the pan, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes. Fully press out in the pan all the way to edges and corners. Let the dough sit covered at room temperature for 1½ to 2½ hours. Ideally, you want it to rise about a third of the way up the pan. Once the dough has risen, you’re ready to make pizza! Yields 2 large 10”-by-14” pizzas.

Lemon Vinaigrette 1 c. olive oil ¼ c. red wine 8 tbsp. lemon juice (and more to taste) 8 tsp. Dijon mustard 4 pinches sea salt 4 pinches freshly ground black pepper 4 pinches sugar In a squirt bottle, shake all of the ingredients until emulsified. Yields enough for several pizzas or salads.

PIZZA INSTRUCTIONS: Sprinkle dry oregano directly on the dough.

Spread 12 oz. of cheese, making sure cheese is placed evenly across the pan, edge to edge.

Slice the tomatoes and place on the cheese.

Save a few slices and dice them up to toss with arugula (to be added after baking). Slice the red onion and place on the pizza.

Preheat the oven to 450˚F. Once preheated, place the pizzas in the oven for approximately 15 minutes, resulting in browning on top and a golden brown bottom. Toss the arugula in a bowl with a drizzle of lemon oil dressing.

Remove the pizza from the oven and place on a cutting board. Slice into 8 pieces. Place the arugula-tossed dressing directly on top of the pizza. Sprinkle with the lemon zest for color and additional flavor and serve.

There it is, pizza fans: the award-winning Detroit Twist! Enjoy!

Brian Hernandez, a longtime pizzaiolo, is PMQ’s test chef, U.S. Pizza Team event coordinator and a host on PizzaTV.

R E L AT E D V I D E O LEA R N H OW TO MA KE T H E D E TROIT T WI ST IN O UR EXCLUSIV E R ECIPE V IDEO AT PMQ . CO M/D ET RO IT T WIST

DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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Motown’s FAVORITE

PIZZA

Airy dough, crispy crust and signature caramelized cheese makes Detroit-style pizza an instant winner on any pizza lover’s list.

By Liz Barrett Foster

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B U D DY ’ S R E N D E Z V O U S

DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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etroit-style pizza debuted at Buddy’s Rendezvous in 1946. The bar opened in 1936, and when owner Gus Guerra wanted to add food 10 years later, he turned to his Sicilian mother-in-law for advice.

“There was only one pizza place in Detroit at the time—a place called Vesuvio’s serving round pizzas,” says Jack Guerra Sr., son of Gus and co-owner of Cloverleaf Bar & Restaurant in Eastpointe, Michigan. “My dad and grandma decided they wanted to put together a thick, square Sicilian pizza called a sfincione.

“He never told me exactly where he found the pans,” Guerra adds. “But they used to be dripping pans for auto parts.” The deep, blue steel pans act like a cast iron skillet might, retaining heat and building up flavor over time.

Guerra’s dad told him the pizza took off immediately, with customers choosing pizza over sandwiches. “The pizza was kind of like a hot sandwich, you know?” says Guerra.

Seven years later, in 1953, with business booming, Guerra sold Buddy’s and opened Cloverleaf Bar & Restaurant in

B U D DY ’ S R E N D E Z V O U S

Dedicated kitchen staff kept hungry bar patrons satisfied in the early days of Buddy’s Rendezvous.

Eastpointe, Michigan. “There were three partners in the Buddy’s business: my father and my mother’s two uncles,” Guerra explains. “There was a bit of a problem, and they ended up splitting up the business and selling it. That’s when my father moved to East Detroit and bought Cloverleaf.”

Guerra says his dad sold Buddy’s and opened Cloverleaf the same year, to instant success. “It went really well and immediately started expanding,” Guerra explains. “We’ve been here since 1953, and we still have people coming here since the time they met and started dating.”

Carol Corrie, longtime employee and now general manager at Cloverleaf, remembers Gus hanging out at the Cloverleaf bar and chatting with customers. “They made only cheese and pepperoni pizzas when they started,” she says. “Gus told me that one day a customer came in with green peppers from his garden and asked Gus if he would put them on his pizza.

Gus said that was how the pizzeria began putting additional toppings on the pizza.”

DETROIT-STYLE PIZZA

TRADITIONAL PIZZA

Square or rectangular (10”x14”)

Round

Sauce on top of the cheese

Sauce under the cheese

Thick

Thin

Proofed pizza

Docked and baked pizza

Pepperoni under the cheese

Pepperoni on top of the cheese

Ground Wisconsin brick cheese, or blend of brick and mozzarella

Shredded mozzarella cheese

Light and crunchy crust

Chewy crust

Cheese spreads to ends of all four sides

Cheese stops at outer crust

Baked in industrial blue steel pans

Baked on screens or round coated aluminum pans

“It took me eight months to come up with a good glutenfree pizza here. It just takes time. If you’ve got the heart for it, you can put something good together, there’s no doubt about it.”

— JACK GUERRA SR., BUDDY’S RENDEZVOUS

30 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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Easy. Fast. Top Rated.

PDQpos.com

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B U D DY ’ S R E N D E Z V O U S

Detroitstyle pizza is recognized for its caramelized cheese edges and sauce on top.

Dedicated to Detroit Style Shawn Randazzo has been on a personal mission to get Detroit-style pizza on the map for years. He started working at Cloverleaf Bar & Restaurant when he was 18, eventually owning two locations before moving on to open Detroit Style Pizza Co. in 2012. He admits that the transition was difficult, creating more than two dozen versions of his dough before he got it right.

Now, he spreads the word about the famous Motor City pies through pizza competitions, consulting and offering to ship Detroit-style pizza across the United States. Find out more about Randazzo in this month’s Chef’s Corner interview at pmq.com/randazzo.

REPLICATING DETROIT-STYLE PIZZA

“Detroit-style pizza is a unique product and a labor of love,” says Wes Pikula, chief operating officer at Buddy’s Pizza.

“It’s much harder to execute. Detroit style is unique in dough, proofing, doublehand stretching, the pans, the cheese, etc. It’s difficult to execute consistently unless you’re willing to go all in.”

Pikula goes on to describe the important elements of a Detroit-style pizza. “It’s the combination of the crunchy crust, buttery flavor, baked cheese edges, and a light, airy and balanced flavor,” he says.

Deep pans are essential in creating the signature caramelized cheese edge and thick, fluffy crust that’s so

recognizable on a Detroit-style pizza.

Seasoned over years, the blue steel pans impart a flavor not found anywhere else in the country. The deep sides allow the cheese—which is sprinkled all the way to the edges—to caramelize in the most wonderful way. “The pans are becoming increasingly hard to find,” Guerra notes. “The blue steel pans my dad used really aren’t available anymore, and the galvanized ones they make shouldn’t be used for pizza. A lot of companies are offering pans that are treated already so you don’t have the sticking problem.”

After stretching the proofed dough into the pan, regional brick cheese (a semihard Wisconsin cow’s milk cheese, with a taste similar to sharp cheddar, that gets its name from the original process of using bricks to press moisture out of it) is generously applied across the dough and up the sides of the buttered or greased pan. Dollops of marinara sauce are held back until after the pizza exits the oven; this ensures a signature crispy crust and caramelized cheese edges.

32 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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C LO V E R L E A F

Gus Guerra’s family continues to serve the original Detroit-style recipe at Cloverleaf in Eastpointe, Michigan, and several other regional locations.

C LO V E R L E A F

Beyond the Mitten

Hearing words such as “blue steel pans” and “brick cheese” may have already scared some of you off. These products can indeed be difficult to find. However, if you’re truly determined, there are ways you can use similar cheeses (such as white cheddar-mozzarella blends) and deep seasoned pans that can still get you closer to the pizzas you’d find in Detroit.

“If you have time and patience, you can make anything, as long as you keep testing it,” Guerra says. “It took me eight months to come up with a good gluten-free pizza here. It just takes time. If you’ve got the heart for it, you can put something good together, there’s no doubt about it.”

DETROIT PIZZA’S POPULARITY

Over the last decade, we’ve seen Detroit-style pizza start to grow in popularity. Pikula believes that travelers have helped to spread the word. “The resurgence of the city of Detroit has brought many tourists and travelers to the city who have experienced Buddy’s Pizza for the first time, and they have helped spread the word,” Pikula explains. “The North American International Auto Show has helped move Buddy’s folklore to Canada, and the international press has featured Buddy’s as part of their experience in the city.” Travel and food

Here are a few pizzerias serving Detroit-style pizza outside of Michigan: • Descendant Detroit Style Pizza, Toronto • Emmy Squared, Brooklyn and East Village, NY; Nashville, TN • Michigan & Trumball, Philadelphia • Union Squared, Chicago and Evanston, IL • Via 313, Austin, TX

shows, along with national media publications and online listicles, continue to include Detroit-style pizza in growing numbers.

Meanwhile, as operators discover how difficult it can be to mimic Detroit-style pies, some operators who already have the recipe down are starting to expand. Within Michigan, Detroitstyle pizza can be found in most pizzerias, with a few having previous ties to Buddy’s before branching out on their own or creating spin-offs. “I think my dad would be really happy that Detroit-style pizza is gaining more recognition; I’m sure he’s smiling up there,” Guerra says. “We’re doing our best to push the pizza here. We have six stores open, and we’re opening another one in a few months.”

Buddy’s, currently with 12 locations, also looks to reach the masses. “Buddy’s expansion is more about getting our style of pizza to more fans,” says Pikula. “On a local level, the popularity has always been part of Buddy’s Pizza, since its start in 1946. It isn’t often a new pizza style category gets recognition this late in the history of pizza.”

Liz Barrett Foster is PMQ’s editor at large and author of Pizza: A Slice of American History.

34 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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THE GOLD STANDARD

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36 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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A State-of-the-Industry Analysis To stay relevant in an increasingly competitive market, independent operators must meet consumers’ expectations—including quality ingredients, authenticity and technology.

By Bill DeJournett, Rick Hynum and Missy Green

D A N I LO A N J U S

When compiling this year’s Pizza Power Report, three themes kept appearing again and again: quality ingredients, technology and the youth culture. Consumers are increasingly insisting on the freshest, healthiest ingredients, a trend driven largely by younger segments of consumers, who also demand the highest technology available to facilitate ease of ordering and delivery.

But, despite evolving approaches and consumer demands, the state of the pizza industry is strong.

According to a Technomic study, 83% of consumers eat pizza at least once per month. According to PMQ’s 2018 Industry Census, 60.47% of respondents reported an increase in sales over the previous year. Internationally, pizzerias are thriving, with a five-year forecasted growth rate of 10.7%.

DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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WORLD PIZZA MARKET F O R E C A S T

S A L E S

+

5 - Y E A R

F O R E C A S T

P E R I O D

$144.68 BILLION (2018)

G R O W T H

9.4% 18.3% 5.9%

10.2%

Russia | $1.5B

Eastern Europe | $4.6B

Western Europe | $54.4B

21.6%

North America | $50.7B

China | $3.6B Brown arrows indicate the seven regions that contribute to the total world pizza market of $144.68 billion.

Separate breakouts for Russian and Chinese pizza markets. China metrics only include chain pizzerias at this time.

T

22.7%

Asia Pacific | $11.2B

8.7% Middle East/Africa | $4.8B

19.2%

9.1%

Latin America | $16.8B

Australasia | $2.2B C

Source | Euromonitor International (Including a forecast from 2017-2022)

M

Y

CM

RENDING ABROAD

China: Foreign Chain Invasions

China continues growing, and everyone wants a piece of the pie. PMQ China projects that Pizza Hut will open a whopping 1,000 new units throughout the country in 2019, while Papa John’s and Domino’s are estimated to open 50 new units each. Other projected players include Sazeriya ( Japan), Mr. Pizza (South Korea) and Dodo Pizza (Russia), planning to open 100, 50 and 20 new stores, respectively.

Source: Shelly Liu, PMQ China, Beijing, China Italy: Competition Stays Fierce

In Italy, pizza would perhaps seem to be recession-proof. But, since 2013, 50% of new pizzerias closed their doors within the first five years of opening, according to Unioncamere. Strong competition is cited as the main reason for the high number of closures. Some pizzerias are making themselves more competitive

MY

CY

CMY

Store openings in China Brand Current No. Pizza Hut 2,200 Papa John’s 160 Domino’s 160 Sazeriya 400 Mr. Pizza 150 Dodo Pizza 2

K

Planned Growth for 2019 1,000 50 50 100 50 20

Source: Shelly Liu, PMQ China, Beijing, China

by offering unique kinds of dough and healthy ingredients, though the majority of pizza consumed still follows Italian tradition.

Source: Marianna Iodice, RistoNews.com, Bari, Italy American Chains Still Conquering the World

Chains may have dwindled domestically, but abroad they are actively expanding.

Papa John’s added 146 global units

from the 3rd quarter of 2017 to 2018.

In the same period, Domino’s added 232 global units, and Yum! Brands added 192 Pizza Hut units worldwide.

Domino’s has its strongest international presence in Australia and India, but it has also recently opened stores in Europe, notably in Scandinavia and Italy. This year, Papa John’s expanded its presence in Central Asia and Eastern Europe with new stores in Kazakhstan,

38 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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2019 QUICK FACTS T R E N D

C O M P A R E D

T O

2 0 1 8

P I Z Z A

P O W E R

R E P O R T

WORLDWIDE PIZZA MARKET

U N ITE D STATE S PIZZA MARKET

NO. OF U.S. PIZZERIAS

TOP 50 AV ERAGE U N IT SALES

$144.68 BILLION

$45.73 BILLION

76,993

$876,867

•

Source | Euromonitor International (2018 Forecast)

•

•

•

Source | CHD Expert

Kyrgyzstan and Poland. Pizza Hut will be developing Latin America, the Caribbean and select countries of Europe in a landmark deal with Telepizza, while also investing heavily in the Chinese market.

that is high-volume-driven. Pinsa par-baked crusts are also making waves for their ease of use and innovation in health benefits.

Source: Elena Shirokova, hotzilla.club, Moscow, Russia

never seen in before, such as pubs, resorts and airports. Accordingly, pizza competitions and education events are also on the rise in Sweden.

Source: Mikael Lundgren, Sveba-Dahlen, Fristad, Sweden

Russia: Speed Is King

Sweden: Pizza Expands to Gourmet

Brazil: Refining the Market

Par-baked crusts are swiftly replacing fresh or frozen dough for their ease of transport across long distances and improved shelf life. The need for consistency and speed reflects a market

In contrast to Russia, Sweden is shedding its long-held belief that pizza is only for fast food consumption.

Pizza is now appearing in upscale restaurants and other areas it was

Much like the United States, Brazil experienced a wave of Italian immigration at the beginning of the 20th century. From there, pizza culture was born, but it hasn’t been until recent years that the market demanded highly skilled pizza makers. Today, pizza makers are putting effort into education to understand different ways to make dough and select toppings wisely to promote both health and the culinary arts.

Source: Carlos Zoppetti, ConPizza, São Paulo, Brazil

VIA IMGUR

PMQ China projects that Pizza Hut will open a whopping 1,000 new units throughout the country in 2019.

40 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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DO M I N O ’ S D O M I N AT E S

For the first time, Domino’s overtook perennial heavyweight any of their favorite devices. This led to development of its new Pizza Hut in total sales. According to DominosPizza.com, ordering platform, Domino’s AnyWare, which allows customers global retail sales grew 8.3%, domestic same-store sales grew to order through any number of devices, including in-home 6.3%, and international same-store sales grew 3.3%. The chain assistants such as Amazon Echo, smart TVs, smart watches, experienced a global net store growth of 232 units in the third and social media platforms. Meanwhile, the emphasis on new quarter of 2018, according to a press release by dominos.com. platforms attracted top talent to work on product development.

Domino’s has been enjoying a consistent growth pattern for Garcia also notes that Domino’s loyalty program rewards its best the past several years. A January 2018 article in Forbes states customers and keeps them away from the competition. that after hitting an all-time low in 2008, when its stocks sold for $3 per share, Domino’s now commands a price of $266. In that article, Kelly Garcia, Domino’s SVP of e-commerce development and emerging technologies, states that execs had to start thinking of themselves as heading up an “e-commerce company that happens to sell pizza.” Kelly says that Domino’s success is due to two critical factors— fundamentals and “surprise and delight.”

Independent and small chains | $18.78 billion 41.07% Domino’s correctly identified that the industry Top 50 chains | $26.95 billion was moving to mobile, which contributed to 58.93% half of their digital sales, while digital sales now make up the majority of overall sales.

Year ending | September 2018 “Surprise and delight,” the second element Source | CHD Expert in Domino’s plan, included implementing a strategy of enabling customers to order from

UNITED STATES PIZZA SALES $45.73 Billion

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TOP 50 PIZZA CHAINS RANK BY CATEGORY

B Y

A N N U A L

S A L E S

2017 AVERAGE SALES PER UNIT

2016 AVERAGE SALES PER UNIT

SALES

UNITS

AVERAGE SALES PER UNIT

AVERAGE SALES CHANGE

CHAIN NAME

1

2

18

8

Domino's

5,925,100

5,335,200

11.1%

5,587

5,371

4.0%

$1,060,515

$993,335

6.76%

2

1

36

39

Pizza Hut

5,510,842

5,751,381

-4.2%

7,522

7,689

-2.2%

$732,630

$748,001

-2.05%

3

3

28

21

Little Caesars

3,722,000

3,646,000

2.1%

4,332

4,323

0.2%

$859,187

$843,396

1.87%

4

4

25

17

Papa John's

3,009,700

2,927,900

2.8%

3,314

3,331

-0.5%

$908,177

$878,985

3.32%

5

5

45

43

Papa Murphy's Pizza

832,531

884,771

-5.9%

1,483

1,537

-3.5%

$561,383

$575,648

-2.48%

6

19

2

16

California Pizza Kitchen

665,500

644,000

3.3%

204

205

-0.5%

$3,262,255

$3,141,463

3.85%

7

6

42

33

Marco's Pizza

549,396

488,900

12.4%

867

770

12.6%

$633,675

$634,935

-0.20%

8

22

5

20

Mellow Mushroom

445,500

433,600

2.7%

193

192

0.5%

$2,308,290

$2,258,333

2.21%

9

12

20

24

Round Table Pizza

444,575

442,558

0.5%

429

433

-0.9%

$1,036,305

$1,022,074

1.39%

10

10

22

37

Cicis

420,500

425,000

-1.1%

444

445

-0.2%

$947,072

$955,056

-0.84%

11

7

37

9

Hungry Howie's Pizza

403,112

378,222

6.6%

552

548

0.7%

$730,275

$690,186

5.81%

12

8

35

40

Chuck E. Cheese's

402,500

404,400

-0.5%

549

540

1.7%

$733,151

$748,889

-2.10%

13

13

23

23

Jet's Pizza

374,600

364,200

2.9%

400

395

1.3%

$936,500

$922,025

1.57%

14

16

14

5

Blaze Pizza

271,400

182,300

48.9%

230

169

36.1%

$1,180,000

$1,078,698

9.39%

15

15

24

1

MOD Pizza

270,000

149,800

80.2%

297

187

58.8%

$909,091

$801,070

13.48%

16

9

49

50

Godfather's Pizza

252,500

269,400

-6.3%

514

448

14.7%

$491,245

$601,339

-18.31%

17

14

38

47

Sbarro

236,100

249,800

-5.5%

342

338

1.2%

$690,351

$739,053

-6.59%

18

20

15

38

Pizza Ranch

234,121

231,790

1.0%

203

199

2.0%

$1,153,305

$1,164,774

-0.98%

19

25

19

44

Donatos Pizza

167,480

167,483

0.0%

160

155

3.2%

$1,046,750

$1,080,535

-3.13%

20

37

9

41

Bertucci's

166,000

178,300

-6.9%

79

83

-4.8%

$2,101,266

$2,148,193

-2.18%

21

42

4

13

LaRosa's Pizzeria

156,120

149,402

4.5%

65

65

0.0%

$2,401,846

$2,298,492

4.50%

22

23

31

30

Mountain Mike's Pizza

150,333

139,530

7.7%

188

175

7.4%

$799,644

$797,314

0.29%

23

39

8

6

Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza

145,000

123,100

17.8%

68

62

9.7%

$2,132,353

$1,985,484

7.40%

24

41

10

10

Giordano's

136,600

122,000

12.0%

66

62

6.5%

$2,069,697

$1,967,742

5.18%

25

11

50

34

Pizza Pro

129,200

132,000

-2.1%

440

448

-1.8%

$293,636

$294,643

-0.34%

26

17

44

22

Villa Italian Kitchen

128,800

126,000

2.2%

221

220

0.5%

$582,805

$572,727

1.76%

27

26

29

36

Papa Gino's Pizzeria

127,100

132,900

-4.4%

149

155

-3.9%

$853,020

$857,419

-0.51%

28

35

11

31

Gatti's Pizza

125,091

119,103

5.0%

82

78

5.1%

$1,525,500

$1,526,962

-0.10%

29

21

43

15

Rosati's Pizza

119,300

113,500

5.1%

195

193

1.0%

$611,795

$588,083

4.03%

30

30

16

25

Ledo Pizza

118,450

115,000

3.0%

103

101

2.0%

$1,150,000

$1,138,614

1.00%

31

28

26

42

Mazzio's Italian Eatery

114,200

120,600

-5.3%

126

130

-3.1%

$906,349

$927,692

-2.30%

32

18

48

32

Fox's Pizza Den

113,800

119,200

-4.5%

220

230

-4.3%

$517,273

$518,261

-0.19%

33

27

32

4

Pieology Pizzeria

107,900

93,400

15.5%

135

131

3.1%

$799,259

$712,977

12.10%

34

46

7

12

Grimaldi's Coal Brick-Oven

100,100

93,500

7.1%

46

45

2.2%

$2,176,087

$2,077,778

4.73%

35

44

12

46

Shakey's Pizza Parlor

90,485

87,717

3.2%

60

55

9.1%

$1,508,083

$1,594,855

-5.44%

36

24

47

28

Pizza Inn

88,448

88,662

-0.2%

161

162

-0.6%

$549,366

$547,296

0.38%

37

32

33

19

Imo's Pizza

76,900

75,200

2.3%

98

98

0.0%

$784,694

$767,347

2.26%

38

50

1

27

Oregano's Pizza Bistro

74,600

63,700

17.1%

21

18

16.7%

$3,552,381

$3,538,889

0.38%

39

49

3

7

Dion's Pizza

73,600

68,700

7.1%

23

23

0.0%

$3,200,000

$2,986,957

7.13%

40

29

40

11

Pizza Factory

71,000

67,564

5.1%

109

109

0.0%

$651,376

$619,853

5.09%

41

48

6

14

Brixx Wood Fired Pizza

69,200

66,500

4.1%

31

31

0.0%

$2,232,258

$2,145,161

4.06%

42

43

17

18

Monical's Pizza

69,000

67,100

2.8%

63

63

0.0%

$1,095,238

$1,065,079

2.83%

43

31

41

45

Peter Piper Pizza

65,800

64,700

1.7%

103

98

5.1%

$638,835

$660,204

-3.24%

44

38

30

48

Famous Famiglia

64,600

69,300

-6.8%

77

77

0.0%

$838,961

$900,000

-6.78%

45

36

34

49

Toppers Pizza

61,222

61,857

-1.0%

82

76

7.9%

$746,610

$813,908

-8.27%

46

45

21

29

Me-N-Ed's Pizzeria

60,400

60,200

0.3%

59

59

0.0%

$1,023,729

$1,020,339

0.33%

47

40

27

35

Happy's Pizza

58,900

61,800

-4.7%

67

70

-4.3%

$879,104

$882,857

-0.43%

48

34

39

3

Pie Five Pizza Co.

57,162

53,310

7.2%

84

88

-4.5%

$680,500

$605,795

12.33%

49

47

13

2

PizzaRev

57,100

48,400

18.0%

43

41

4.9%

$1,327,907

$1,180,488

12.49%

50

33

46

26

Giovanni's Pizza

55,000

56,900

-3.3%

98

102

-3.9%

$561,224

$557,843

0.61%

2017 U.S. SALES (X 1,000)

2016 U.S. SALES (X 1,000)

SOURCE: TECHNOMIC

SALES CHANGE (%)

2017 U.S. UNITS

2016 U.S. UNITS

UNITS CHANGE (%)

UNITS CHANGE (%)

BASED ON 2017 SALES DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

pizzapower2019.indd 43

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RE T H I N K I N G FA S T C A S U A L

Ravenous customers enjoy a delectable pie at MOD Pizza.

MOD PIZZA

Although growth among fast-casual restaurants slowed significantly from 2016, this category continues to be an important and growing segment of the pizza industry. A Technomic study found that 28% of consumers frequent fast-casual establishments (visiting at least once per month), putting them on track with full-service pizzeria restaurants.

Fast-casual pizzerias are also expanding their menus, offering dishes such as chicken wings, sandwiches and salads.

QSR reported in May 2018 that a survey of 1,000 consumers

by AlixPartners, a global consulting firm, indicated that only 20% of millennials say they intend to visit fast-casual establishments twice weekly or more over the next year, compared with 24% in the 2017 survey. The same survey found that just 32% of diners in this year’s survey preferred fast-casual for lunch, a 5% drop from AlixPartners’ survey in 2017. At the same time, fast food was the preferred lunch destination by 35% of respondents in this year’s survey, an increase of 5% from the previous year.

Diane Kelter, a leading analyst in the foodservice sector, reflected on fast-casual changes in a Mintel report. “Even as things change, they still remain the same,” Kelter says. “The

concept of quality food at an affordable price that launched the fast-casual segment has remained a key association. However, as dining habits shift and the landscape gets more competitive, fast casuals look beyond what worked in the past and focus on what lies ahead, including more premium beverages and automation, as well as the showcasing of specialty concepts on a mainstream stage.”

FAST-CASUAL CHAIN GROWTH 2015-16 UNIT GROWTH

2016-17 SALES GROWTH

2016-17 UNIT GROWTH

Source | Technomic

Th in an pr

5%

18%

-5%

7%

3%

16%

38%

52%

63%

68% 25%

36%

49%

59%

63%

80%

82%

103%

110%

130%

2015-16 SALES GROWTH

2 0 1 5 2 0 1 7

EF FR EA

SO

Th

MAD

44 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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B Y

S T O R E S

P E R

C A P I TA

ABOVE AVERAGE

TOP PIZZERIA STATES

STATE

STORES

POPULATION

STORES PER 10,000 PEOPLE

Pennsylvania

4,650

12,823,989

3.63

Connecticut

1,285

3,588,683

3.58

378

1,061,712

3.56

478

1,350,575

3.54

1,091

3,160,553

3.45

Rhode Island New Hampshire Iowa New Jersey

3,109

9,032,872

3.44

Massachusetts

2,366

6,895,917

3.43

Ohio

3,760

11,694,664

3.22

Delaware

310

971,180

3.19

West Virginia

568

1,803,077

3.15

New York

5,838

19,862,512

2.94

Indiana

1,946

6,699,629

2.90

173

623,960

2.77

2,736

9,991,177

2.74

North Dakota

204

755,238

2.70

South Dakota

236

877,790

2.69

Maine

355

1,341,582

2.65

Illinois

3,312

12,768,320

2.59

Montana

274

1,062,330

2.58

Kansas

751

2,918,515

2.57

Missouri

1,515

6,135,888

2.47

Kentucky

1,082

4,472,265

2.42

Arkansas

720

3,020,327

2.38

Wyoming

136

573,720

2.37

Nebraska

450

1,932,549

2.33

Maryland

1,414

6,079,602

2.33

Minnesota

1,297

5,628,162

2.30

Oklahoma

890

3,940,521

2.26

Wisconsin

1,290

5,818,049

2.22

Florida

4,704

21,312,211

2.21

386

1,753,860

2.20

Virginia

1,865

8,525,660

2.19

Nevada

659

3,056,824

2.16

North Carolina

2,191

10,390,149

2.11

Tennessee

1,408

6,782,564

2.08

145

703,608

2.06

Vermont

AVERAGE

Michigan

LABOR DAY

46 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

pizzapower2019.indd 46

Idaho

BELOW AVERAGE

Labor costs and shortages remained a frequent topic of discussion in 2018. With many municipalities raising their minimum wages, combined with a depleted labor force due to a good economy, many pizzeria owners struggled to keep their kitchens staffed. Compound this with stagnant pizza prices and a low unemployment rate, and finding good workers can be difficult.

A CNN Business report from December 2017 reported an increase in minimum wages in 18 states and 20 cities, according to figures from the National Employment Law Project. The highest raises were reported in Washington’s Seattle-Tacoma area, with minimum wages for hospitality and transportation workers at $15.64 per hour.

Lenny Rago, co-owner of Panino’s in Chicago, believes that minimum wage increases necessitate raising menu prices. “I’m totally fine with the minimum wage increase, as long as the consumer is willing to pay a little more.”

An August 2018 article in Nation’s Restaurant News reported on a recent survey, called “Staffing Concerns in Restaurant Operations,” that revealed 67% of operators cited increased competition for workers as a key driver in rising costs. Kevin Ozan, McDonald’s Corp.’s chief financial officer, said in the article, “It’s a tight labor market out there. Labor staffing is a challenge, both for us and the franchisees. But that’s the industry, so I don’t know that we have it any worse than anybody else.” Turnover was also cited in the survey as a challenge: A full 46% of respondents said turnover increased either “significantly” or “somewhat” over the past year (43% said their turnover rates remained unchanged, while 10% said turnover decreased somewhat or significantly).

Washington DC

863

4,199,563

2.05

South Carolina

1,034

5,088,916

2.03

Colorado

1,154

5,684,203

2.03

146

738,068

1.98

Arizona

1,285

7,123,898

1.80

Washington

1,352

7,530,552

1.80

Oregon

Alaska

California

7,125

39,776,830

1.79

Texas

5,058

28,704,330

1.76

Utah

554

3,159,345

1.75

Mississippi

523

2,982,785

1.75

1,841

10,545,138

1.75

Alabama

825

4,888,949

1.69

New Mexico

348

2,090,708

1.66

Louisiana

745

4,682,509

1.59

Hawaii

168

1,426,393

1.18

Georgia

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And, since many pizzerias seek entry-level workers, we see the youth movement having an effect on the pizza industry when it comes to employment. A September 2018 article in Nation’s Restaurant News revealed data from a recent survey of 1,600 Gen Zers and millennials conducted by the National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation (NRAEF) and the Center for Generational Kinetics. The study suggests almost 50% of Gen Z workers desire recognition, with some sort of weekly feedback, while 47% indicated a desire to have a mentor. In the article, Rob Gifford, NRAEF executive vice president, offered tips for recruiting and hiring younger employees: “Keep applications simple, user-friendly and easy to complete. Rely on current workers to recruit candidates via word-of-mouth, and maintain the restaurant’s reputation across all media channels.”

Rago believes that Gen Zers and millennials also have different expectations for the workplace schedule and environment. “They are trying to dictate their schedule to you, instead of being told when to work,” he says. “They’d rather work at an Uber or DoorDash, where they can make their own hours and do what they want, when they want. They’re not willing to take on jobs that require them to be there every week, with bosses telling them what to do.”

Mike’s Pizzeria, a chain of 29 restaurants based in Albany, New York, has had to increase its prices to accommodate for the rising minimum wage in that state, according to the Albany

Business Review. Owner Mike Harvard told the magazine, “We couldn’t compete price-wise with the local pizzeria, because we have to spend more on payroll. Therefore, we have to charge more for pizza, so it kind of hurt. We lost sales because we had to raise our prices, and then raising prices drops revenue down, so it’s a tough situation.”

Meanwhile, Bruce Irving, founder of Smart Pizza Marketing based in Boston, believes there’s a “help crisis” in our industry—and that prices should keep up with rising costs.

“We need to get past the perception that pizza costs $10—if you can feed a family of four with one pizza, that pizza should be $20,” he says. “There’s no way you can pay a dishwasher or a cashier $15 an hour, and your manager $20 to $25 an hour, if you charge $10 to $15 for a pizza.”

PR

Freeze Warning The frozen pizza/take-and-bake market growth continues to stay flat, virtually unchanged from 2016.

About one-quarter (26%) of consumers say they enjoy frozen pizza “less than once a month,” according to a Technomic survey. Bruce Irving of Smart Pizza Marketing believes that the consumer demand for healthier options is driving the demand for local pizzas vs. frozen options.

Marla Topliff, president of Rosati’s Pizza and chairman of the National Restaurant Association’s Pizzeria Council, meanwhile, adds that it’s tough to recreate a pizzeria-quality pie at home with a conventional home oven. “You could buy a pizza with the same ingredients in a grocery store, but you can’t cook it the same way, so they don’t have the same flavor,” she explains. “It’s so easy to get delivery these days, customers don’t need to get pizzas at a grocery store.”

M

P C

48 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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DI S C E R N I N G D I N E R S Thanks in part to the increasing popularity of regional pizza styles (think Neapolitan, Roman, Sicilian, Detroit and others), pizza consumers are growing more educated about the individual components of pizza. Hence, owners will need to promote their quality pizza ingredients (such as Italian flour or local produce) to boost their product’s image of authenticity.

While consumers still rate overall taste as the most important factor when ordering pizza, 44% of consumers rated “fresh, highquality ingredients” and “best crust” as deciding factors—up from 40% in 2016, according to a Technomic study. The same study reported that 49% of consumers indicate they would like pizza establishments to offer “more authentic” pizzas.

Irving feels that the increased sophistication of the pizza diner is a plus for independent pizzerias. “They do care about their ingredients,” Irving notes. “They don’t have one set style.

They can mix and match and create new menu options, which is what people want.” And diners, due in part to social media platforms such as Facebook and Instagram, are posting photos of a growing number of regional pie types (such as Neapolitan or Detroit-style), contributing to the increase in their popularity.

Also, because quality is important among younger customers, the independent operator has an advantage. “The younger generation wants to know what’s in their food, and that’s a great opportunity for independents to dominate their market, because they can do that,” Irving explains. “They’re not set in their ways.

They can be nimble. If something doesn’t work, stop doing it. If it is working, do it more!”

DON’T WAIT FOR THE DINNER BELL

Although dinner still dominates the pizza industry, other dayparts, such as lunch and breakfast, have gained traction.

According to a Technomic consumer survey, breakfast is the fastest-growing daypart in the restaurant industry. Egg and ham pizzas for breakfast are gaining popularity, with 17% of “super heavy” pizza consumers reporting they have eaten pizza at breakfast, according to a Technomic study.

Even 7-Eleven introduced a new breakfast pizza to their food lineup in 2018, and market testing at select 7-Eleven stores revealed that it was the second highest-selling pizza.

In fact, nutritionist Chelsey Amer told The Daily Meal in January that pizza isn’t necessarily an unhealthy way to kick off your morning. “You may be surprised to find out that an average slice of pizza and a bowl of cereal with whole milk contain nearly the same amount of calories,” Amer said. “However, pizza packs a much larger protein punch, which will keep you full and boost satiety throughout the morning. Plus, a slice of pizza contains more fat and much less sugar than most cold cereals, so you will not experience a quick sugar crash.”

“Breakfast pizzas have become very popular,” Marla Topliff, president of Rosati’s Pizza and chairman of the National Restaurant Association’s Pizzeria Council, adds. “It’s not that hard to make a breakfast pizza. You can put anything on a pie.

Breakfast has always been a big daypart, just not typically for outlets like us. Fast-casual, five-minute pizzas have the lunch category covered. People want to be able to get in and get out. Dayparts have become a big factor and a booming trend.

Everybody’s trying to capture a little of each of those. When we’re trying to get ready for a big football game on a Sunday, we’ll open our stores early and add a breakfast pizza in a lot of our pubs to capture that crowd, because that’s what they’re looking for.”

However, pizzeria owners should be cautious about adding a breakfast pizza to the menu without the proper product development. “I don’t think you should do breakfast pizza if it’s not what you’re good at,” Irving says. “Are 40 people a week asking you to open for breakfast? If they’re not, don’t just open for breakfast just because you think you might be able to grow your sales.”

“44% of customers choose a pizza place based on the crust.”

— TECHNOMIC 50 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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Bruno, the robotic pizzamaking arm from Zume Pizza. For more info, read our cover story on Zume in the June/July 2017 issue of PMQ Pizza Magazine.

ZUME PIZZA

TE C H N O L O G Y L E A D S T H E W A Y When futurists of the 1950s speculated about 21st-century science and technology, they gave little thought to pizza delivery. But leading chains like Domino’s and Pizza Hut, along with up-and-coming companies like Zume Pizza, are turning science fiction into reality for the restaurant industry.

Pizzerias are constantly working to find the next technological development that will make ordering and delivering pizzas quicker and easier for the consumer. However, this puts pressure on smaller independent pizzerias, which may lack the capital to invest in such new technologies, to keep up. A full 43% of pizza customers say they find online ordering and tracking technologies “appealing or extremely appealing,” according to a Technomic study, while the same study found that 24% of consumers felt similarly about pizzas that can be ordered from a smart TV. But how do they feel about robots making their pies?

Companies like Zume Pizza, a Mountain View, Californiabased startup with a so-called “cobot” culture—humans and robots working side by side in the kitchen—hope to answer

that question. Zume, which was featured in PMQ’s June-July 2017 issue, earned a new round of funding for $375 million last fall from a single investor, SoftBank Vision Fund. The cash injection reportedly raised Zume’s valuation to roughly $2.25 billion, according to The Wall Street Journal—not too shabby for a company that presently delivers pizzas only in the San Francisco Bay area. Co-founded by Julia Collins and Alex Garden, Zume uses a robot-enabled assembly line to prep and par-bake pizzas, plus predictive algorithms that forecast where pizza orders will come from and what types will be ordered.

The par-baked pizzas are then loaded onto huge delivery trucks equipped with refrigeration units and dozens of computerized ovens; as the truck cruises a predetermined delivery area, human employees pop the pies into the ovens for the finishing bake when an order comes in and deliver them, fresh and piping-hot, to the customer’s door.

Other chains have taken note of Zume’s revolutionary model.

Pizza Hut, in collaboration with Toyota, is working on its own version, the Tundra PIE Pro, still in the prototype stage. The

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setup utilizes a rebuilt Tundra SR5, with par-baked pies stored in mini fridges, a pair of robotic arms and a conveyor oven.

One robot arm removes the pie from the fridge and places it on the conveyor oven. The pizza emerges, fully baked, on the other side, where a second robot arm transfers it to a cutting board, slices it into six pieces, places it in a pizza box, and closes the box.

Pizza Hut and Toyota are also developing a self-driving delivery vehicle, called the e-Palette, with a working version set to debut at the 2020 Olympics in Japan. Meanwhile, Domino’s has been testing its own self-driving delivery car, a tricked-out Ford Fusion Hybrid, in select markets, including Ann Arbor, Michigan, and Miami.

Even Little Caesars has gotten into the act, receiving a patent in March for its own pizza making robot. The chain also rolled out its first Pizza Portal, described as “the first heated, selfservice mobile-order pickup station in the quick-service restaurant industry.”

Customers download an app, prepay for their food on a mobile device, and receive a three-digit PIN or QR code.

The customer can then go to the Pizza Portal at the store and input their PIN or scan their QR code to open a secured compartment in the portal, retrieving their pizza and skipping the line—no human interaction required.

Breakthroughs in foodservice automation aren’t limited to the pizza industry. Pasadena, California-based Miso Robotics introduced Flippy, an “autonomous robotic kitchen assistant,” earlier this year in Los Angeles.

Flippy, which wowed customers at a CaliBurger location in Pasadena and in a food stand at Dodger Stadium, can flip burgers and place them on buns, and operate fryer baskets.

Topliff says that pizzeria owners shouldn’t lose sight of the big picture. “I think technology is a wonderful thing

and is helping our industry grow to a great extent, but I also feel that, at some point, the personal touch is going to get lost in all this technology,” she says. “I still think nothing beats being able to talk to your customers and have face-toface time with them.”

But technology still offers costcutting advantages to pizzeria owners,

Topliff admits. “During these times when the price of labor is getting so high, things like kiosk ordering and mobile ordering have taken a giant leap.

It’s less expensive for a store owner, especially an independent, to be able to keep business going. Technology is something we all have to keep an eye on.”

DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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L E S S

T H A N

1 0

U N I T S

INDEPENDENT PIZZERIAS CHAIN STORES VS

M O R E

T H A N

SALES TOTAL

$4 5.73 B I L L I O N

TOTAL UNITS 76,9 93

AVG. SALES $ 6 0 8 , 8 47

1 0

U N I T S

INDEPENDENTS

$18,78 0,79 6,29 6.57

CHAINS

$26,9 52,8 5 9,714.5 0 42,026

INDEPENDENTS CHAINS

34,9 67

INDEPENDENTS

$446,885

CHAINS

$ 77 0 , 8 0 8 Source | CHD Expert

INDEPENDENTS

OPENINGS

1,096

CHAINS

2,203

TOTAL PIZZA INDUSTRY

3,299

INDEPENDENTS 7 6 2

CLOSINGS

CHAINS

2,586

TOTAL PIZZA INDUSTRY

3,348 Source | CHD Expert

NET LOSS

+334

-383

I N DE P E N DE NTS

CHAINS

HEALTH CARE

Diners are increasingly looking for healthier options at the restaurant. According to a Technomic study, 25% of consumers indicated they “would eat pizza more often if there were healthier options available,” with young consumers, women, and “super heavy” pizza eaters being most interested.

According to PMQ’s 2018 Pizza Industry Census, 64.45% of respondents stated they offer a gluten-free crust, and 23.92% reported offering a vegan pizza.

Keto pizza has also gained popularity. As reported in Liz Barrett Foster’s article on the trend, published in the November issue of PMQ, Ron Mathews, owner of Rockstar Pizza in Brownsburg, Indiana, began offering keto-friendly menu items this year. “I’m having a hard time just keeping up

-49 TOTA L I N DUSTRY

with the demand,” Mathews says. “We’re selling a minimum of 100 keto pizzas on Saturdays, which is when we promote the offering.” Mathews even began offering keto sandwiches, which also proved popular.

Rago says customers are also demanding higher-quality ingredients. “Quality ingredients help your product brand better,” he explains. “You’ll sell a lot more if you’re using quality ingredients, because people are starting to be aware of what’s going into food.” However, he adds, when adding these high-quality ingredients, operators must make sure to price their menu items accordingly.

Meanwhile, customers with special dietary needs, such as vegan or gluten-free, also expect various options at their favorite pizzerias. “People are just much more aware of what

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THE YOUTH MOVEMENT

At the close of 2018, there is an entire generation of consumers who never knew a world without computers, and many of them have no memory of a world without cell phones. Young customers tend to do anything and everything they can on their smartphones or online, whether it is ordering a ride via

R O C K S TA R P I Z Z A

they are eating and putting into their bodies,” Irving says. “My daughter has an intolerance to gluten. If a pizzeria doesn’t offer some sort of gluten-free option, it’s probably not one we will go to. Do some research and explore new menu items; have at least one or two alternative options so you can accommodate the whole family.”

Topliff agrees that today’s consumers have become more health-conscious. “With the advent of menu labeling, everybody knows exactly what you’re putting into your food,” she says.

“You’re obligated to source the best ingredients, the freshest ingredients, because they’re being looked at more than ever.”

Another ingredient trend has been the uptick in plant-based and vegan ingredients. Domino’s Australia added three vegan pies to its menu, in addition to vegan garlic bread, according to a January 2018 article on livekindly.co. Domino’s Australia stated, “We have been overwhelmed by the popularity of our vegan cheese…We’ve received great feedback about having vegan cheese, and it will stay on the menu.”

View our coverage of keto pizza in our Past Issues (November 2018) section at pmq.com.

Uber or ordering a pizza. The convenience of not having to interact with other people is also an incentive to them.

At the same time, a Technomic study found pizza to be most popular among younger consumers (Gen Zers and millennials), with pizza consumption frequency lessening with age. According to a poll by Ellios.com, 40% of millennials think pizza is “the best food in the world.”

In an interview for an August 2018 article in the online publication diginomica, Papa John’s CEO Steve Richie discussed

DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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the importance of the younger generations. “Our focus on digital efforts is clearly to make certain that we are appealing to younger audiences, which will be the future of the overall business,” he said. “This brand reputational work is very, very critical to moving the overall comp sales forward while we’re solving for differentiations in messaging and the value perception and the introduction of all the new technology pieces.”

A November 2018 study by eMarketer Retail found that 36% of U.S. internet users ordered restaurant delivery in the past year, the majority of which were those under 35. The survey found that younger users have higher adoption rates and tend to use delivery services more frequently.

Irving notes that younger pizza consumers want online ordering, as well as information on your ingredients. “You have to recognize that and adapt your business,” he says. “If you don’t change now, it might not affect your business today, but five years from now, you’re going to look back and say, ‘I wish I had online ordering then, because now everybody else has it.’”

Topliff echoes the demands of those who prefer to do things right from their computer or phone for ease and convenience.

But she also identifies an unexpected upside to online ordering: privacy. “There is a tendency to order more online, because no one is watching what you’re ordering,” she explains.

“You have the ability to order in the privacy of your own home and by yourself. But some people still prefer to order in person, so you have to be prepared to go in any direction that is going to be most convenient and make your customers the happiest.”

THIRD-PARTY SERVICES

Third-party delivery and ordering services have been gamechangers in the pizza industry. For the first time, restaurateurs have the option of not hiring drivers and paying costly insurance bills for the luxury of delivering their product.

However, these services come at their own cost.

A June 2018 Morning Consult poll reported that “31% of U.S. adults order delivery at least somewhat often, and 67% ‘hardly ever’ or ‘never’ order in.” The study also indicated that

“The younger generation wants to know what’s in their ingredients, and that’s a great opportunity for independents to dominate their market, because they can do that.

They’re not set in their ways. They can be nimble.”

— BRUCE IRVING

Today’s youthful market has never known a world without computers and/or smartphones, and naturally gravitates more toward ordering online.

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82% said they prefer to order directly from a restaurant, while only 13% utilize a third-party delivery service; 26% stated “quality of the food delivered” was the deciding factor in choosing a third-party delivery service. According to PMQ’s 2018 Pizza Industry Census, 67.46% of respondents reported not utilizing a third-party delivery service.

Rago believes that the convenience of third-party services does not necessarily offset the increased costs of utilizing those services. “I know it’s convenient, but they’re not money-conscious,” Rago says. “When you use those thirdparty companies, most of the time customers are paying an inflated rate or surcharge. Bottom line is, it’s costing the millennial more money without them necessarily realizing it.”

Topliff believes that, when evaluating a third-party service, operators must examine the seamlessness of the delivery process: Are they delivering in the right packaging? Are the pizzas actually arriving the way they should? “We’ve had our own deliveries and drivers for the 50 years that we’ve been in business,” Topliff says. “We still have the availability for things like UberEats and many of the third-party delivery services, only because that’s where some of our customers are. It seems like a lot of the millennials prefer to skip having that one-on-one contact and just want to be able to do it right from their computer, so we have to be in both places.”

LEVERAGING LOYALTY

Loyalty programs have been around for decades and remain hugely popular to this day, including for pizzerias.

According to PMQ’s 2018 Pizza Industry Census, 41.71% of respondents reported utilizing a loyalty program. In a 2016 Forrester Data Consumer Technographics North American Retail and Travel Survey, 60% of loyalty customers said the programs influence where they make purchases, and 48% said loyalty programs influence what they buy.

In the same survey, 64% of U.S. online adults who belong to any customer loyalty program, and who regularly

DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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Oregano’s Pizza Bistro California Pizza Kitchen Dion’s Pizza La Rosa’s Pizzeria Mellow Mushroon Brixx Wood Fired Pizza Grimaldi’s Coal Brick Oven Anthony’s Coal Fired Pizza Bertucci’s Giordano’s Gatti’s Pizza Shakey’s Pizza Parlor Pizza Rev Blaze Pizza Pizza Ranch Ledo Pizza Monical’s Pizza Domino’s Donato’s TOP Round Table Pizza

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Source | Technomic

participate in most of the programs they join, said the programs make them feel more loyal to the brand or company, compared with 42% who participate in just a few programs and 19% who rarely participate.

“I think every business should have loyalty programs,” Irving says. “If you can get someone to download your app, you can get them to order much more frequently through that app, because they are now a loyal customer. It’s something every business should look at.”

“You can’t be in business without a loyalty program these days,” Topliff agrees. “Everybody’s looking for them. We have coupons on the side of our boxes that say ‘Buy 12, get one free.’

We have it on every website and homepage and every possible social media place we can put it: If you’re part of our loyalty program, you’ll get something for free. These days, in these economic times, people are looking for that.”

I E

Domino’s Papa John’s Pizza Hut Marco’s Pizza Papa Murphy’s Pizza Little Caesars Jet’s Pizza Hungry Howie’s Pizza Round Table Pizza Toppers Pizza Blaze Pizza MOD Pizza Donatos Pizza Chuck E. Cheese’s Lou Malnati’s Mellow Mushroom Giordano’s California Pizza Kitchen LaRosa’s Pizzeria Mountain Mike’s Pizza

S

F

Source | Alexa

times, because we’re the one food that families can depend on—that can feed a family for a fairly decent price, that helps celebrate football games and birthdays and kids’ parties. It’s always been the biggest percentage of the National Restaurant Association and the International Franchise Association.”

And, if there’s one more trend that doesn’t look to be slowing, it’s the increased focus on technology. Looking ahead to 2019, remain on the lookout for new innovations, whether it’s a new ordering app, a piece of equipment that can lower your labor costs, or an upgraded POS system. History shows that those who fail to adopt new technologies may be left behind, especially given the youth market’s affinity for all things high-tech. At the same time, don’t forget that using healthy, quality ingredients will always be a core component of any successful pizzeria—though times may be a-changing, some consumer demands will always remain in fashion.

IN A NUTSHELL

Ultimately, despite all of the challenges today’s pizzeria owner faces, Topliff offers a positive summation of the state of the pizza industry. “Pizza has been one of the staples of the industry for the last hundred years,” she says. “There have been recessions, but pizza always seems to do well even during those

I p b I

I • • •

B P

O C

For more about loyalty programs, see our article in the October 2018 edition of PMQ Pizza Magazine.

p

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Pizza is your passion and love is in the air.

Learn pizza making hands-on while exploring Italian culture, landscapes and history!

In this 4-day course you will learn the theory and practice behind the perfect pizza classica from start to finish. We will also explore Italy’s biggest pizza trend: specialty flours. Classes are taught by Master Pizza Instructor Graziano Bertuzzo at the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli headquarters.

In addition, during this week-long tour: • Relax in a beautiful, mountain vineyard in Prosecco country • Celebrate the opening day of Carnival, Venice’s biggest party • Enjoy Valentine’s day in romantic Venice, and much more!

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Bring a loved one and get a discount with double room occupancy.

Pizza course optional for tag alongs.

Only fifteen spots available! Last day to sign up is December 31.

Contact Caroline Felker at 662-801-0878 or caroline@pmq.com.

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Missy Green & Paola Laghetti Tour guides DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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T H E H AV E N

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BIG CHEESE THE

What cheese trends are taking off in restaurants across the country? Experts and operators weigh in.

By Tracy Morin Who doesn’t love the comfort food factor that cheese brings to any dish? And what chef doesn’t love experimenting with its endless varieties—stinky or smoky, mild or pungent, full-fat or vegan? While mozzarella will likely always remain head cheese at U.S. pizzerias, there are plenty of other options lighting up menus around the country. Here’s our look at the key cheese trends that have been gaining in popularity—and what experts predict will make the biggest mark in 2019.

DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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MY PIE

My Pie’s Very Vegan pizza caters to the millennial crowd with vegan cheese and a whole-wheat crust.

BASICS AND BEYOND

Of course, you can always explore twists on the classics: Mathew Green, director of culinary operations for Blue Orbit Restaurant Consulting in Atlanta, suggests using fresh mozzarella curd instead of pulled mozzarella for a softer texture without the chewiness of fresh mozzarella. And Grant Arons, owner and founder of Inizio Pizza Napoletana in Charlotte, North Carolina, uses

I N I Z I O P I Z Z A N A P O L E TA N A

The California Milk Advisory Board (CMAB), based in Tracy, California, recently examined cheese trends in the fast-casual market and noted a definite growth in use of specialty cheese. But, not surprisingly, mozzarella still tops the lists of most-menued and mostpreferred cheeses at fast-casual pizza joints, followed by Parmesan. Cheddar and provolone also rank in the top five.

Still, customers are increasingly apt to expand their dairy horizons. “While mozzarella remains by far the most prevalent type of cheese found on pizza, we are seeing more interest— particularly from millennials—in additional cheese toppings, including fresh mozzarella, Asiago and Parmesan,” says Amy Popp, director of brand marketing for Grande Cheese Company in Fond du Lac, Wisconsin. “Fresh mozzarella is likely growing due to the increasing popularity of margherita pizza, which has grown on menus by 21% over the past four years, according to Datassentials.”

Italian buffalo mozzarella on every pizza. “It’s a distinct difference—and a really delicious one,” Arons says. “We find most new customers have little to no experience with buffalo mozzarella, and they’re constantly impressed with the flavor and mouthfeel. Patrons also learn about a product that makes the Campania region of Italy famous, so through this one ingredient, we’re also

Inizio Pizza replaces traditional mozzarella with buffalo mozzarella on all of its Neapolitanstyle pies.

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T H E H AV E N

The Haven uses tangy goat cheese for the Popeye pizza, with roasted garlic sauce, fresh spinach, chicken, mushrooms and mozzarella.

able to educate and broaden people’s perspective of Italian culture.”

Another specialty pizza at Inizio, the Limone Capra, provides a delicious spinoff on the classic mozz-ricotta pairing, featuring buffalo mozzarella and goat cheese ricotta. “The milkfat from the melted buffalo mozzarella and citrus from the lemon blend make a wonderfully light sauce,” Arons says.

“And the soft texture and mild flavor of the goat cheese ricotta paired with fig jam complement the citrus perfectly.”

basic and specialty pies: The 4 Cheese sports Fontina, mozzarella, cheddar and Parmesan, while The Righteous Pig is topped with mozzarella and goat cheese to complement the flavors of pesto, prosciutto, caramelized onions, arugula and a balsamic drizzle.

Indeed, executive chef Josh Jacobsen at Peel Handcrafted Pizza in Frederick, Colorado, believes that goat cheese is underutilized in the pizza industry.

“Because cheese is one of the most

FLAVOR NOTES

At San Diego’s The Haven Pizzeria, owners Lauren Passero Brooks and Kate Grimes believe that offering a variety of different cheese types is imperative.

“More and more diners are requesting higher-end cheeses; we have cheddar, ricotta, smoked Gouda and feta, among seven other options.”

The owners also use an assortment of cheeses in their

expensive items in the pizzeria, having a cheese that can go a long way—adding rich texture and giving incredible depth—can make a world of difference,” Jacobsen says. “Not everyone enjoys blue cheese or an intense aged cheese, but there are so many applications for goat cheese, and many options exist: firm, aged, in oil, fresh and more.”

Nora Weiser, executive director of the American Cheese Society in Denver, agrees that as consumer interest in specialty cheeses continues to grow, more pizzerias are using them—think burrata, Asiago, ricotta, goat cheese, blue cheese and buffalo mozzarella.

Meanwhile, ethnic options are also on the rise: The CMAB has noted major growth in the use of Hispanicstyle cheeses across all foodservice categories, including pizza. For example, the organization reports, menu mentions of Oaxaca cheese increased 2% from 2016 to 2017.

Operators’ quest for alternative melting cheeses will also continue in 2019, predicts Kerry Olson, VP of foodservice sales for Emmi Roth in Fitchburg, Wisconsin.

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CALIFORNIA MILK ADVISORY BOARD

Mark “The Cheese Dude” Todd designed the Mole Ole Pizza for California Milk Advisory Board, featuring Hispanic-style cheeses like Oaxaca and asadero.

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Utilizing seasonal and unique topping ingredients, like squash on the Golden Harvest Pizza at My Pie, challenges operators to find the perfect cheese complement.

“Raclette, known for its mild flavor and excellent melting capability, is a unique option for operators; it’s incredibly aromatic, visually appealing and a great way for operators with an open kitchen to excite and draw in customers,” she explains.

“Other great alternative melting options include Gruyère, a smooth-melting cheese with a savory flavor that stands up to just about any topping, and mild and buttery original or flavored Gouda.” Olson adds that once-snubbed full-fat products like whole milk and real butter are coming back— and for optimal cheesy indulgence, a creamy, melty Havarti or rich and buttery Butterkäse fits the bill.

Alternatively, Green predicts that customers’ cravings for flavor-packed options will usher in more smoked mozzarella and provolone added to blends, a rise in blue cheese, and more goat and sheep milk cheeses on the menu. And Olson agrees that bold, smoky and flavored cheeses are hot: According to IRI retail data, flavored cheeses continue to outpace the overall cheese category at a rate of 2% per year. “Smoked cheeses are, in fact, the third largest category of flavored cheeses and have grown every year since 2013,” Olson reports. “We see this trend impacting foodservice as pizza operators look to excite palates by using flavored cheese like Sriracha Gouda or Chipotle Havarti.”

On the other side of the flavor spectrum, Weiser notes that using cheese in a sweet, rather than savory, format continues to gain popularity. She recommends options that pair salty and sweet, like figs, prosciutto, blue cheese and honey; or, for dessert pizzas, ricotta with caramel and chocolate, or goat cheese with honey, lavender and berries.

MY PIE

SEASONAL, LOCAL AND NATURAL

For 2018, My Pie Pizzeria, a “fresh-casual pizza concept” based in Scottsdale, Arizona, saw an increase in interest in unusual pizza toppings—think mac and cheese, squash, pears and apples. “Going into 2019, our R&D and seasonal pizza testing will focus on capitalizing on these unique toppings—including what cheese blends highlight and support them,” says owner Ryan Mitchell.

Weiser agrees that operators should build guests’ interest with rotating pizza specials that feature higher-end ingredients with a seasonal flair—with appropriate cheese pairings. “This can be a great upsell, even for restaurants that may not have the audience to support a full menu of less traditional items,” she says. “Seasonal flavors—think squash in the fall, caprese in the summer—can also tie in to what is available locally throughout the year, bringing two trends together on one pie crust.”

Grant is finding inspiration in artisan and locally crafted cheese, tapping artisan cheese makers to capture and highlight distinct regional flavors. “Similar to what craft beer did to local beer scenes, artisan cheese is contributing to the local food scene,” he explains. “At our new restaurant, Eight & Sand Kitchen, we’ll be topping Roman-style pizzas with local cheeses from makers that use ingredients straight from Italy, or fresh milk from the goats they’ve raised.”

Similarly, Weiser adds that there has been a shift away from commodity and processed cheese, even on pizza, as millennials are looking for more natural, wholesome products. She points to a report this year that U.S. processed cheese (such as classic American slices) have experienced four straight years

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Mark “The Cheese Dude” Todd combines 18-month aged cheddar and red and green apples to create a pizza version of classic apple pie.

CALIFORNIA MILK ADVISORY BOARD

of decline. On the other hand, cheeses made locally “give consumers a taste of place,” Weiser says. “While smaller pizzerias often incorporate this trend into their menu items as a competitive differentiator, larger chains can focus on local products too, even if on a more regional level— bringing uniqueness to their different locations around the country.” And, Olson adds, millennials are willing to pay more for specialty foods that contain simple ingredients and are sustainably sourced.

Tying into the demand for healthier options, operators who cater to a millennial audience have noted a rise in vegan cheeses—and manufacturers of these animal-friendly alternatives are constantly creating a greater range of varieties within that category. “Consumers are looking for cheese varieties that cater more specifically to their dietary needs or personal preferences,” Mitchell explains. “The popularity of our vegan pie leads us to believe that we will continue to receive requests for vegan, lactose-free, caseinfree, soy-free and dairy-free cheeses going into 2019.”

Indeed, San Diego-based Woodstock’s Pizza recently conducted an Instagram poll among college students, who overwhelmingly responded with a desire for vegan slices in addition to whole vegan pies. Director of Marketing Jade Waterman sees this trend growing with millennials in particular, a demographic looking for healthier alternatives.

“Seeing this trend and predicting significant growth in 2019, we’ve added vegan cheese slices in one location and whole vegan cheese pies at all locations to accommodate these special diets, along with low-fat and gluten-free pizzas,” Waterman says. “One piece of advice: If you’re going to add vegan cheese to the menu, ensure that you fully commit with a vegan crust option, too!”

Tracy Morin is PMQ’s senior copy editor.

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A BETTER WAY TO PERFECT YOUR CRAFT

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JUST WING IT

Chefs report on the hottest flavor trends and innovative cooking techniques for pizza’s best companion: the chicken wing.

By Bill DeJournett

With college football bowl games in full swing and NFL playoffs just around the corner, families will be looking for the perfect snacks for their weekend gatherings, and what food goes with football just

as well as pizza? Chicken wings, of course.

DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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Jason McGovern of Denver’s Crush Pizza & Tap smokes his wings for 45 minutes to an hour.

TREND WATCH

C R U S H P I Z Z A & TA P

What flavor trends are taking off right now?

Industry experts identify several current trends in the wing world: Buffalo soldiers. Experimental flavor profiles may come and go, but the original buffalo-style wing is still the industry go-to. “We’re always trying different things, but it always goes back to the basics,” says Nick Carulla, director of operations for Jefferson’s, a wing chain based in Atlanta. “But trying to mimic that traditional buffalo-style wing can be easier said than done.”

Still, for operators who have nailed the perfect recipe, buffalo wings are practically flying out of the kitchen. “We’ve been serving wings for 25 years,” says Michael Hart, general manager of Kisling’s Tavern in Baltimore. “Your basic buffalo wing that comes drenched in hot sauce was the one we started with when we had only one flavor, and it’s still our most popular.”

Sweet and spicy. For customers who crave a break from buffalo wings, chefs offer alternatives with wing sauces and rubs that mix sweet and spicy flavor profiles. “Sweet and spicy or sweet and sour are age-old combinations,” Hilker says.

“Korean chicken wings are a big thing now. The Asian flavor palate tends to have that sort of mix. You can also use honey on chicken wings to achieve those flavors.”

Indeed, at Kisling’s Tavern, sweetness and spice combine to delicious effect. “Our newest addition is the Honey Old Bay, which mixes Maryland Old Bay Seasoning mixed with honey,” Hart says. “We now offer those, along with our Mango Habanero and Sweet Chili Pepper wings. Those are three of our newest flavors mixing sweet and spice, and they seem to be really popular.”

Bring the heat. Americans are gluttons for punishment, especially when it comes to wings—the hotter, the better— and wingmongers are constantly finding new ways to push the

Some stats highlight the perennial popularity of this humble side item: The National Chicken Council estimates that 1.5 billion wings were consumed for last year’s Super Bowl weekend, with ranch dressing as the most popular sauce accompaniment. And in its 2018 Chicken Wing Trends Report, CHD Expert reported that there are more than 3,100 restaurants in the United States devoted to chicken wings. But, of course, pizzerias remain another widespread purveyor of this menu must-have.

Carol Hilker, author of Chicken Wings: 70 Unbeatable Recipes for Fried, Baked and Grilled Wings, Plus Sides and Drinks, describes the fascination with wings: “In the Danish or Nordic culture, they have hygge, which is the culture of coziness. For America, a version of our coziness is chicken wings. When fall hits, people say, ‘Let’s grab a pizza and some chicken wings and watch football!’”

Michelle Bucholz, marketing director of the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, New York, claims that buffalo-style chicken wings were invented at her establishment in 1964. The story goes that Teressa Bellissimo, one of the bar’s owners, was making chicken stock for a soup she planned to serve the next day. Her son, Dominic, was tending bar that night, and a group of his friends came in wanting something to eat at 2 a.m. Having already cut the wings off the stock chicken and set them aside, Teressa tossed them into a deep fryer, whipped up a sauce to coat them, and served them to Dominic’s ravenous friends.

The rest is history.

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“Now people have baked wings, grilled wings, and I’ve seen a huge influx of smoked wings.”

— MICHAEL HART, KISLING’S TAVERN

chicken wings with red velvet cupcake crumbs. People do some really outthere things.”

WHAT’S COOKING?

While the time-honored method of frying maintains its popularity, chefs are also experimenting with different cooking methods, such as smoking.

McGovern uses a brine of beer, garlic powder, onion powder and other spices, soaking the wings for up to 48 hours.

He smokes the wings over applewood or cherrywood for 45 minutes to one hour. Following the smoking, his wings are baked for 45 minutes to help the cartilage come off the bone. The wings are refrigerated until an order comes in, then grilled. After saucing, the wings are grilled one last time to caramelize the sauce. He then serves them with a housemade dressing, either ranch or blue cheese.

Hart identifies numerous cooking methods for wings, including baking, grilling and smoking. “One of my favorite

T H R I L L I S X .CO M

envelope. “Not too long ago, we added a sauce called Afterburner,” Carulla says.

“Everybody wants that sauce that kicks your butt and is super spicy. But we don’t sell a ton of that one, because it is so spicy!”

Similarly, Jason McGovern, owner of Crush Pizza & Tap in Denver, entered a hot wing challenge this year, partnering with Flatiron Spice Company, which created spice flavors for his buffalo sauce. “The one we call the #3 is the hottest of them all,” McGovern says.

“There’s a little Carolina reaper, ghost pepper and chipotle all flaked in there.”

Range of the strange. Lately, restaurateurs have added new flavor profiles to offer more variety. The Anchor Bar lists eight sauce choices on its menu, including Spicy Hot Barbecue, Garlic Parmesan, Honey Garlic Sweet & Sour, Chipotle Barbecue and Suicidal.

“We actually just won an award for our new Habanero spice recipe,” says Bucholz. “It’s a dry rub mixture of dry ranch dressing, a little bit of butter, and some habanero spice. That’s our most popular wing coating now.”

Hilker has come across some unusual wing recipes over the years, including peanut butter and jelly, cola, green tea and strawberry balsamic. “Fruit flavors are always unusual, but flavorful,” Hilker says. “For example, pineapple habanero can go Latin or Asian. You could coat

places does a smoked wing,” Hart says.

“The bird is smoked for two hours at 200⁰F, then char-grilled so it has the burn lines, like you would have on a steak cooked on a grill, then dipped in wing sauce. It has this plethora of flavors.”

Hilker notes that dry rubs and smoking are newer phenomena but adds that trends in barbecue tend to fluctuate. “One year it’s super-saucy everything, and the next year people like the dry rub,” she says. “Now, I think you’re seeing food simplifying down to the basics.”

At Jefferson’s, wings are fried, but Carulla advocates a longer fry time in order to achieve a crispier finish. “The

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wing will be done at about eight minutes, but we cook ours for 12 minutes,” he explains. Jefferson’s also employs a technique Carulla calls “double dipping.” “We toss the cooked wings in our spicy Turbo sauce and re-drop in the fryer for 30 seconds,” he says. “All of those seasonings stick to the wings, though the hot sauce comes off a bit, so it’s not too spicy but has a ton of flavor.”

With so many preparation, cooking and flavor possibilities, wings offer virtually limitless potential. “Wings aren’t for the faint of heart— they’re one of those things that you can really enjoy and play with the flavors, having fun and mixing it up,” Hilker concludes. “It’s a quick item to make, and usually pretty delicious!”

Bill DeJournett is PMQ’s managing editor.

The National Chicken Council estimates that 1.5 billion wings were consumed for last year’s Super Bowl weekend, with ranch dressing as the most popular sauce.

DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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IDEA ZONE

SPONSORED CONTENT

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The secret to building customer loyalty quickly is reaching an audience that doesn’t currently have any other pizza restaurant loyalties—new movers.

Families that have just moved into the neighborhood haven’t found their new favorite pizza restaurant yet! And, because they are looking to explore the restaurants in their new neighborhood, they are 80 times more likely to respond to your marketing than current residents.

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To learn more about the Welcomemat new mover marketing program and to discuss if it’s a good fit for your pizza restaurant, visit welcomematservices.com/pizza or call 866-768-8954.

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

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Caulipower also offers All-Natural Uncured Pepperoni, Margherita, Three Cheese, Veggie, Plain and Paleo Crust. Like all Caulipower pizzas, real cauliflower is the first ingredient, offering fewer calories, sugar, sodium and fat, and more vitamins, nutrients and fiber, than traditional pizza. eatcaulipower.com

FIRE WITHIN Fire Within is the world leader in manufacturing mobile wood-fired oven trailers, with 19 different models. The Fire Within community has grown to more than 750 oven owners in all 50 states and overseas, with more than 1 million pizzas cooked. Fire Within educates chefs and entrepreneurs through its Wood-Fired University and Rolling in the Dough, a comprehensive business plan, teaching students how to build and run a successful wood-fired catering enterprise over the last 10-plus years. 888-240-9758 www.firewithin.com

THE UHLMANN COMPANY For more than three generations, the Uhlmann Company has been producing Heckers and Ceresota Unbleached flours for the finest pizza restaurants in Chicago and New York City. Using only the finest winter wheat with the highest quality protein, Heckers and Ceresota Unbleached Flours deliver the consistency and quality in finished dough that professionals demand. 866-866-8627, heckersceresota.com

TASTE OF ITALY This 11’6” Pizza Flag was designed by Tino Sciortino in the 1980s after selling his Italian restaurant and pizzeria in Glendale, California. The flags can be ordered with steel stakes for ground insertion or a steel four-legged stand for placing on concrete. The Pizza Flag is extremely effective for attracting attention from a distance.

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PIZZERIAMAGNETS.COM Successful pizzerias have long embraced the proven marketing power of customized magnets. On display 24/7, they attract customers to your pizzeria--whether the fridge is bare, that tired and hungry feeling ensues, a get-together is planned, or it’s office pizza day. This affordable, highly visible, durable and effective promotional tool engages new and returning customers. Complimentary samples are available.

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PIZZA INDUSTRY RESOURCE GUIDE

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PIZZA INDUSTRY RESOURCE GUIDE

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Come follow us, like us, and engage with us on these social media platforms! pmq.com/Recipe-Bank/ 90 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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PIZZA INDUSTRY RESOURCE GUIDE

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THE PIZZA EXCHANGE

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PIZZA INDUSTRY RESOURCE GUIDE

PIZZA DELIVERY THERMAL BAGS

DECEMBER SPECIALS

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Phone 630-553-9135 sales@gimetalusa.com www.gimetalusa.com DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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THE PIZZA EXCHANGE

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PIZZA INDUSTRY RESOURCE GUIDE

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Since 1915, The Neil Jones Food Company has been producing premium quality tomato and custom blend sauces. A family owned and operated corporation, we only pack from the freshest and finest vine-ripened California tomatoes. So whether you prefer classic #10 cans or new shelf-stable pouches, you will always get the very best in fresh packed tomato products from Neil Jones Food.

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T E L E P H O N E E Q U I P M E N T/ S U P P L I E S / S E R V I C E

www.pizzatv.com DECEMBER 2018 | PMQ.COM

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THE PIZZA EXCHANGE

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Updating your dining room is easy with our easy-care vinyl table covers … always made to your specs. Fabrics are also available by the roll.

• 372 colors and 65 mix-and-match patterns • Covers are custom made within 2-3 weeks • Available with velcro, umbrella holes or elastic for a perfect fit.

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601 East Barton | West Memphis, AR 72301 96 PMQ PIZZA MAGAZINE | THE WORLD’S AUTHORITY ON PIZZA

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PIZZA HALL OF FAME

Despite an ever-changing environment in the heart of New York City’s Hell’s Kitchen, 42nd Street Pizza owner Louie Gritsipis (pictured at near left with his granddaughter, wife and son) has helmed a successful pie slinging business (with a definitive Greek diner vibe) since 1965.

Has your pizzeria been in business for 50 years or longer? If so, contact us at tracy@pmq.com.

42ND STREET PIZZA

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Despite decades of neighborhood hardship—and ruthless development—owner Louie Gritsipis delights in his pizzeria remaining a familiar fixture in New York’s Hell’s Kitchen. By Tracy Morin Louie Gritsipis, owner of 42nd Street Pizza in New York, didn’t stay in the United States long after emigrating from Greece at 18 years old.

He was soon back in his homeland, completing a four-year stint in the Navy, where he worked as a cook. But by 1958 he landed in New York City, soon learning the ropes of pizza prep from his uncle. “He had a small store uptown, and he taught me little by little,” Gritsipis recalls.

“We opened 42nd Street Pizza in 1965. Coming here with no English, no money, still I did it.”

Gritsipis indeed embodies the American Dream, but he’s also a walking example of another key American trait: resilience. With his location established in then-rough-and-tumble Hell’s Kitchen, he recalls that drugs, prostitution and violence ravaged the streets in the ’60s and ’70s (even his menu mentions that he was held up at gunpoint seven times). Later, after Mayor Rudy Giuliani took a hardline approach to cleaning up the city, Gritsipis found himself in another tug of war—this time with big-money interests, who offered him millions to vacate the building. But he held firm, declining the offer and

sticking to his rigorous work schedule. “What am I going to do with the money?” he asks. “I’m happy with what I have, whether it’s one dollar or 500. I have my health. I work 16, 17 hours a day and didn’t go to a doctor for the first time until I was 65!”

Though he has witnessed night-and-day changes to the area, Gritsipis has long learned to roll with the punches. When he began, he remembers, rent cost $27, pizza was 15 cents, and employees took home $35 a week. Today, he faces skyrocketing costs, strict health codes and ever-increasing competition—but believes that his oldschool focus on from-scratch food and family-style service keeps his modest outpost thriving. Even better, it gathers his family, including wife Raquel, son Andreas and granddaughter Athena, under one roof to pay homage to the pizzeria’s past while shuttling it into the future.

“I love to work,” Gritsipis says. “I love my life and my family. And people in the neighborhood love me, too. I get to put on my apron and say hi to my friends all day. Nothing could be better than that.”

Tracy Morin is PMQ’s senior copy editor.

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