Pizza e Pasta Italiana - English version

year XXIV

— the english issue —

p. 2

gen. 2013

pizza e pasta italiana

TITOLO DELLA RUBR.

p. 4

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

ADVERTISER INDEX Ambrogi Forni

pag. 31

Avanzini Bruciatori

pag. 57

App – Pizza e Pasta Italiana

pag. 76

Cantile Costagroup Cuppone Ovens

pag. 14, 15 pag. 69 pag. 7

Eredi Malaguti - M.a.m

pag. 45

Eurochef

pag. 39

Ferrarelle

pag. 64, 65

Gam International

pag. 63

Grandi Molini Italiani

pag. 84

Ife London – Uk W.P.C Finals

pag. 65

Imperia, la Monferrina

pag. 27

Italmill

pag. 43

Liner – Italia

pag. 83

Matteo Basta

pag. 67

Molino Agugiaro & Figna Molino Dalla Giovanna Molino Polselli

pag. 22, 23 pag. 19 pag. 2, 3

Molino Vigevano

pag. 51

Olio Redoro

pag. 33

Olio Venturi

pag. 37

Refrattari Pavesi Modena

pag. 58, 59

Refrattari Valoriani

pag. 74, 75

Rispò Sigep – Abtech

pag. 77 pag. 78, 79

Stefano Ferrara Forni

pag. 55

Sitta

pag. 21

Tecnocrio

pag. 41

Techfood

pag. 47

World Pizza Championship

pag. 10, 11

TABLE OF CONTETS: 6 EDITORIAL

by Giampiero Rorato

8

24

— From Salsomaggiore …to Parma

— Homemade fresh pasta

by Nives Piva

by Giampiero Rorato

12 — Italian Food and Catering Industry by Giampiero Rorato

16 — Dough Mix made technical: Does natural sour dough contain industry baking yeast?

by Simona Lauri

28

Tomato: — The beautiful story of a vegetable that has changed the European cuisine

by Gianandrea Rorato

—>

p. 5

INCIPIT —

"Pizza e Pasta Italiana has thus become a window on the world, through which the world is able to get to know the Italian food, and the extraordinary industries working for the Italian and international food" continues at pag. 6

34

48

70

— Italian extra virgin olive oil

— GRAPPA: the Italian most famous distillate in the world

— MAREMMA: Travel in High Maremma

by Giampiero Rorato

by Fabio Iaccozzilli

by Gianandrea Rorato

38 WINE

— Orcia wine: a small D.o.c with great wines

by Virgilio Pronzati

52 — The World of Coffee

by Eliana Cossio

80 SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAIOLI

60 FOR EACH FOOD THE MOST SUITABLE WATER: HERE HOW TO CHOOSE!

by Dott.ssa Cammarano

44 WINE LABELS

66 FOOD AND DESIGN

by Virgilio Pronzati

by Giampiero Rorato

—>

p. 6

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

Editorial

by Giampiero Rorato

P

izza e Pasta Italiana, during its 24 years of intense life, characterized by a rich monthly issue sent to hundreds of thousands of readers spread throughout Italy and abroad, in Europe, the U.S. and Japan, has acquired a wealth of human relationships, both cultural and economic, which have become its richness and its value. It was founded as a magazine for pizza-makers and pizza restaurants during the years, it has expanded its horizon to the vast world of Italian food products of high quality, to the series of Italian food and catering equipment companies, stretching to bakeries, confectioneries and their respective raw material producing companies to the mills, reaching both science and food technology experts, food history and food culture scholars.

Pizza e Pasta Italiana has thus acquired its own space among the many magazines devoted to food, becoming one of the most popular ever, awaited with interest by its many readers, because it does not only look to the Italian world, as in every part of the world there are good products and interesting, capable of enhancing even the food coming from our land. But at the same time, it has aimed at telling the world the high quality and the value of Italian products, known and appreciated everywhere because often the result of genial products, its excellent materials and leading-edge technologies. Pizza e Pasta Italiana has thus become a window on the world, through which the world is able to get to know the Italian food, and the extraordinary industries working for the Italian and international food. These sectors are the real strength of the Italian economy, appreciated all over the world. Helping others to know more and better of them it is useful not only to Italy, but to operators all over the world.

— www.giampierororato.blogspot.com

PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture issue Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 Year XXIV - 2013/01/12

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Giampiero Rorato EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Caterina Orlandi ADVERTISING Manuela Pelosin, Patrizio Carrer PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin EDITING OFFICE 30021 CAORLE (Venezia) via Sansonessa, 49 Tel. +39 0421 212348 - Fax +39 0421 81007 E-mail: redazione@pizzaepastaitaliana.it www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it

GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo and Paola Dus —Mediagraf Lab On the cover: illustration of Enrico Salvador Printing office MEDIAGRAF SpA Noventa Padovana (Pd) Translation edited by P&P language department Editorial and technical committee Maurice Abboudi (Gran Bretagna), Giovanna Allegra, Marisa Cammarano, Patrizio Carrer, Dino Ciccone (U.S.A.), Elsa Emanuela Cugola, Giuseppe Dell’Aquila, Tony Gemignani (U.S.A.), Emilio Giacometti, Vinciane Giangiulio, Sari Innanen (Finlandia), David Mandolin, Gianandrea Rorato, Gianluca Rorato, Evelyne Slomon, Evandro Taddei, Federica Zanata.

Pizza e Pasta Italiana International Jim Winship (Pizza & Pasta Association, Inghilterra) Pete La Chapelle (N.A.P.O. Pizza Today, U.S.A.), P.M.Q. Steve Green (U.S.A.)Abbie Jarman (Pizza, U.S.A.)

Hidenao Takahashi (Pan World Inc., Giappone), Kazuko Nagamoto (ICT, Giappone), Takeshi Tanaka (Quattro Stagioni, Giappone), Drew McCarthy (Canadian Pizza Magazine, Canada) Roberto Bresciani (Pizza y Restauration, Spagna), Sara Cipolletti (Buongiorno Italia) ASSOCIATED WITH THE ITALIAN UNION FOR PERIODICAL PRESS

FOR ADVERTISING OF FOREIGN MAGAZINES ITALIA Pizza e Pasta Italiana SPAGNA RRR Revista de Restauración Rapida, Pizza y Restauración U.S.A. Pizza Today, Pizza, P.M.Q. Steve Green INGHILTERRA Pizza, Pasta & Italian Food GERMANIA Buongiorno Italia – TEL 0039 (0) 0421.83148 FAX 0039 (0) 0421.81007

p. 8

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

WORLD PIZZA CHAMPIONSHIP

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The 22nd Pizza World Championship will be held in the European capital of food

fter many happy years in which the Pizza World Championship was held in Salsomaggiore Terme, from next year the venue will take place in the city of Parma, in the spacious and elegant spaces of Palacassa, adjacent to the impressive exhibition facilities.

The change of venue was neither simple nor painless. Salsomaggiore, in fact, accounted for less than twenty years as a fixture for hundreds of pizza makers from all over the world, many coming in the company of their families, who for three days enriched with their vibrant enthusiasm the beautiful spa town.

Salsomaggiore therefore accounted for pizza makers from all over the world as a beautiful place of encounter, mutual understanding, exchange of experiences and friendship and it will always remain a symbol for world, for many it will always be the place where they started their professional success and it will not be forgotten. But we will be back at the opening of the next Championship, with a particular event, to keep an umbilical cord with the city that hosted us for nearly two decades.

Now, however, our attention is focused to Parma, an emblematic city of the world of food, known for its many food products. This food district recognized by the whole world for its academic centers aimed at developing food culture. But for this reason the Pizza World Championship organization moved to the capital of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza (1545-1859), home to a prestigious University and, since 2002, home of the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA).

In recent years, the organization has unfortunately not been able to meet the growing demands for participation in the Championship, in addition, with the increase of the competition categories, the spaces of the Sports Hall in Salsomaggiore proved no longer to be adequate.

Palacassa, Parma

Salsomaggiore, Terme Berzieri

world pizza championship

p. 9

Night view of Palacassa

Antelami Cathedral and Baptisterum

Palacassa, Parma

It was therefore necessary to find a new home to respond positively to new functional needs and Palacassa of Parma has all the characteristics to meet the new requirements.

As the reader will have already understood, we wanted to get out of the province of Parma, moving to the heart of the Italian food industry and we entered into a framework that will - we believe – give further luster to our big annual event.

The seat has changed for sure, but not the organization taken care by this magazine and our pizza aficionados who have come to the Championship for many years will continue to find our staff of proven and very experienced people who know by name all the participants of the previous editions, taking care of their needs, their preferences.

The writer and the editorial staff of this magazine are even more committed to offering to participants of 22nd Pizza World Championship, to be held in Parma from April 15/16/17, that hospitality and that organization that everyone expects from the greatest event of the world of pizza.

And to all the pizza makers, sponsors and other companies that plan to be in Parma for the Pizza World Championship, 2013 edition, we send our warm greetings and, the warmest welcome in the ducal city.

by Giampiero Rorato

Palacassa th th

April 15 .16 .17th 2013

www.pizzaworldchampionship.it

At the same time of the 1st edition of Pizza World Show

Classic Pizza Pan Pizza Pizza on the Peel Stg Neapolitan Pizza Gluten Free Pizza Pizza for two Pizza Presentation Heinz Beck Trophy "First Courses...in pizzeria" The Largest The Fastest Single and Team Free Style

Regulations available also on-line*

For more info, please contact info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it or visit our website*: www.campionatomondialedellapizza.it - www.pizzaworldchampionship.com

Phone: From abroad: +39 421. 83148

p. 12

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

Italian food and catering industry continues to conquer foreign markets* *This data is confirmed by ISTAT (Italian datawarehouse) as well as by food manufacturers and exporters

Italian food of excellence

T 

he sale abroad of Italian products sees in the foreground the food industry, that is appreciated and sought after all over the world. In the first nine months of 2012, Italian exports grew in all regions of the world, knowing important rates in North Africa (+23%), in North America (+17.5%) and in the non EU countries (+11.5%), while there is a contraction, which is assumed provisionally in those markets that, until recently, were particularly strategic for Italy, such as China (-11.4%) and India (-10.1%).

With regard to sectors that have experienced greater growth in exports, it is to bear in mind the food sector with a 8.1% increase, followed by tanning and clothing industry (+7.2 and 5 per cent respectively), the chemical-pharmaceutical industry (+13.1%), the metallurgy (+9%) and refined petroleum producing in industry (+16.5%).

These official Istat statistics, commented by the Ministry of Trade and Economic Development are enough

by Giampiero Rorato to give us a hint of a positive trend.

First of all Italian food - wine, spirits, liqueurs and specialty drinks in general, extra virgin olive oil, ham and cheese, flour, pasta, rice, vegetables and fruit both fresh and preserved, roasted coffee, etc.. - is very appreciated and sought after in the world, whether born in processing companies - and commercial wineries, breweries, dairies, mills, etc.. - produced by small private companies, often leaders in their field.

p. 13

Next to the sheer agricultural market there is the Italian food related equipment market both for families as well as for the catering world - kitchens, pizza ovens, refrigerators, chillers, refrigerated cabinets, hot desks, mixers, pasta machines, small equipment for families as for restaurants, pizzerias, etc.. - They enjoy high reputation abroad and continue to be very purchased.

That this sector is attracting, as it is commonly said, means a few things. First of all, we are dealing with products - both agricultural, artisanal and industrial – of high-quality, often among the best in the world and for that preferred to others, maybe even cheaper, but of lower quality. There is a fact not to be overlooked: all products mentioned and the great international interest they enjoy are there to show that when you

produce quality, that is also the result of market knowledge, but also of careful and thorough research, success in export level is assured.

For some time, in many parts of the world for example, Italian wine has passed French wine and this is the result of both a qualitative growth recognized by all, and an improvement of the that the image that of the wine has gained both on the initiative of many individual producers thanks events such as Vinitaly (International Italian wine exhibition) and other foreign wine related events. And the same can be said for other food products, agro-industry and industry to the service of catering.

In these areas, we can and should insist on. According to import-export experts, there is still room to enter emerging markets - Brazil, Russia, India, China in the first place - as well as in more traditional markets - the EU Member States and non European states, as well as the United States of America

and others – and this requires an inverse approach compared with a not so far away past. “Small is no longer beautiful”, no longer worthwhile. In order to attack the big markets it takes numbers and quality, a serious organization and promotional sales, the permanent presence in the heart of the markets to be attacked, as taught by big brands in other countries (some, but few, are coming from Italy).

Our conclusion, also on the experience of many companies that work with us in international events confirms that Italian products are highly respected and that if we continue on this road, extending this approach to other sectors, there will be enough time for a serious global relaunch of the Italian market with an advantage not only for the economy of our country but for the whole of Europe, that is seriously committed to quickly turn the page and exit the crisis that has held it back for a few years now.

p. 16

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

We want to make clarity on a scientific basis, into a subject often treated badly that directly affects bakers, pizza makers, pastry and cake producers

Does natural sour dough contain industry baking yeast?

Dough ball of natural mother yeast

by Simona Lauri

T

he topic of sourdough is overwhelmingly back in the limelight by a year now, everyone is talking, writing, holding conferences, etc. but in reality it’s not exactly the discovery of the century. Egyptians already knew and had already understood, even with their limited knowledge, that preserving a piece of dough and using it in processing the next day, the final product was better both in terms of preservation and of organoleptic characteristics. The same can be said, in terms of history, about the blastomicete S. cerevisiae which Pasteur in the mid-1800, who had already identified and studied as living and responsible for alcoholic fermentation.

The use of two different types of microbial action on the dough has created many distortions in bakery since the beginning of 1900 , in other terms since when they started to produce S. cerevisiae on a large scale for bread making. S. cerevisiae, when compared to sour dough yeast, presents a number of advantages due to

the ease of its use, and better standardization, with reduced working time, but the product has a very limited conservation in time with respect to more complex processing aspects.

The advantage of using yeast instead of natural sour dough is much longer in the preservation of the product, digestibility, best organoleptic sensations, etc.. For years these two yeasts were identified with a slightly different nomenclature: the S. cerevisiae as yeast, compressed, industrial, etc.. sourdough and yeast as natural: natural yeast.

The confusion in this regard was quite remarkable especially because this nomenclature was a source of endless discussions, misunderstandings, expertise, interpretation, etc.. On the one hand, S. cerevisiae is a eukaryotic cell which, from a microbiological and scientific point of view, can boast the title of being truly and

properly identified as “yeast” blastomicete precisely because it scientifically belongs to the class of Ascomycetes, Endomycetales order, Saccharomycetaceae family, cerevisiae species, moreover, it was the first eukaryotic cell to have the genome sequenced in 1996. The other, in absence of a legal definition, was in a common and widespread technical terminology called “sourdough” a mass of flour, naturally contaminated, and water in which you develop a specific microflo-

the dough expert

ra, random, contaminant, native in constant evolution and competing nutrition.

In the same way, it is common opinion among professional craftsmen to use the sentence I’m going to make yeast to say I’m going to make some biga…

Personally, I have been requested on several occasions to try to dispel misunderstandings and answer questions such as…is industrial yeast a natural yeast? or even ... is industrial yeast capable of making sourdough? Or ... , I do not consider the industrial yeast as yeast! For some, this is the mystery of the century.

Who says NO ... who says YES, reaching very heated discussions and sometimes rude and disrespectful, standing in court, pontificating on the judgment. Personally, I do not have the presumption to “clarify” this subject, but simply to express, as always, a modest opinion on the subject of my thesis with reports documenting academic and scientific publications, and not least with the healthy and never sufficiently extolled common sense by those who work daily both with the one being

with the other. About a year ago I wrote an article on this subject saying that, for the fact that the S. cerevisiae, brewer’s yeast, compressed, industrial, whatever you want is a living thing (it feeds, grows, duplicates, dies, by metabolism, etc..) is in fact “natural” and therefore, in my opinion, had all rights to be called sourdough, as well as the mass of flour and water made up of a wild microflora of lactic acid bacteria, yeasts and acetic acid, indigenous craft had the same specific rights. Both were “natural yeasts” ie, capable of performing a biological natural leavening. It ‘clear that technically, practically and microbiologically (genera, species, CFU / g of yeast, CFU / g of bacteria, etc..) , they are completely different, but in each case formed by living beings both, and therefore, in fact, both technically able to operate correctly and precisely a natural biological leavening.

From a microbiological point of view the microbial species present almost as pure culture in yeast, industrial, compressed

up

Sour dough down

Close shot of bread alveulus

p. 17

p. 18

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

THE Dough EXPERT 3 of 4

Simona Lauri working on a piece of dough

is represented solely by the Saccharomyces cerevisiae in a concentration equal to about 108 CFU / g that is, in one gram of compressed yeast there are about 10 active lives and billions of cells that can grow, reproduce and die making metabolisms. In yeast instead of sourdough artisan natural microflora is diverse, wild, random, single, native, evolving microbial and in turn depends on factors both endogenous (microbial load of raw materials, secondary metabolite accumulation, nutrient competition, the presence of particular nutrients, microbial iteration, etc.). both exogenous (temperature, relative humidity, pH, presence of sodium chloride, presence / absence of oxygen, etc..). In literature, there are countless works of various authors, both Italian and foreigners who demonstrate the extent of microbial species identified in mothers craft; between lactic acid bacteria were identified more than 50 species belonging to the genus Lactobacillus. Pediococcus, Leuconostoc, etc.. and more than 20 species of yeasts belonging to the genus Saccharomyces, Candida, Torulopsis, Pichia including just

the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae as well as S. Exiguus, Candida krusei, etc..

As can be seen from the identification of microbiological mothers, S. cerevisiae is not in pure culture as in yeast, compressed, industrial, but it coexists with the presence of other microbial species in a natural ecosystem. It may be the only representative species of blastomiceti in mothers as well as live with other species of yeasts and, in any case, there is a value expressed in CFU / g less than the yeast, industrial, compressed (approximately 108 CFU / g for fresh compressed yeast).

Moreover, the identification of microbial mothers, from which all depend on the technological characteristics, rheological, sensory, conservation, nutrition, microbiology, has always reported as the cultivation of lactic acid bacteria and yeasts approximately greater than about 2 orders of magnitude, although lately in some mother lactic acid bacteria and yeasts are the results of the same order of magnitude. In handmade mothers then S. cerevisiae was found although in smaller quantities, in connection with other microbial species, with growth,

p. 20

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

THE Dough EXPERT 4 of 4

Bread made by Simona Lauri

development and metabolism altered, using fermentative substrates modified and therefore I would say that university evaluated the reports on this matter and microbiological analyzes performed and published in major national and world scientific journals, the mother craft or natural sourdough yeast, compressed yeast, industrial, beer, technically and in practice exists.

It is clear that we are in two different contexts, in two distinct realities, but its presence makes me ask you some personal reflections also dictated by the famous common sense. It must be said, in my opinion that the consumer must be properly informed of the presence of S. Cerevisiae.

However, cerevisiae yeast in sourdough as the natural mother has always managed, refreshed and worked in a bakery craft that is “contaminated� with spores of S. cerevisiae, which in turn will give rise to the vegetative form in the mother itself, is ubiquitous, spore-forming, non-pathogenic, etc.. Most consumers, doctors, dietary, and experts think it does not exist!

Depending on the growing outbreak of illness linked to allergies and / or food intolerance (real or alleged no later than on!), as a result of current biomedical

little information whether there is or not a minimum concentration of blastomicete (CFU / g) in can trigger the immune response in the individual, or in the absence of certain knowledge as to what are the components of the S. cerevisiae can trigger immune-mediated reactions and not (perhaps a particular amino acid sequence of some membrane carriers) and not knowing the severity of allergy / intolerance, I feel obliged to inform the consumer of the presence and scrupulously to the risk that cells of S. cerevisiae are present in the mother. In any case, apart from the important speech of allergies / intolerances, the organoleptic characteristics and better conservation of the products do not understand, where the problem is to use the S. cerevisiae or beer, industrial, compressed, if you prefer to make bread, pizza etc.. but most can not understand this’ media attack and this demonization against a blastomicete which plays an extremely important and irreplaceable role in technology and rheology of the dough for bread, pizza, etc..

Personally, I have figured it out!

by Simona Lauri

ITALIAN LEADER

Agugiaro Agugiaro & & Figna Figna Mills, Mills, coming coming from from aa long long tradition tradition of of two two families families from from 1831 1831 for for 66 generations generations have have been been associated associated with with milling, milling, is is the the italian italian leader leader in in pizza pizza industry. industry. To To be be present present in in aa global global market, market, Agugiaro Agugiaro & & Figna Figna Mills Mills has has been been investing investing in in technology technology and and in in innovation innovation since since many many years, years, succeeding succeeding in in creating creating aa wide wide range range of of innovative innovative and and specialized specialized products products to to complement complement the the traditional traditional ones, ones, offering offering aa specific specific item item for for each each final final destination. destination. The The selection selection of of the the most most valuable valuable wheats wheats all all over over the the world world is is guarantee guarantee of of an an excellent excellent blending blending and and savour: savour: thanks thanks to to an an accurate accurate milling milling process, process, strict strict analyses analyses and and historical historical know-how, know-how, Agugiaro Agugiaro & & Figna Figna Mills Mills is is offering offering to to its its customers customers aa constant constant top top quality quality production, production, suitable suitable both both for for small small bakeries bakeries and and for for the the biggest biggest world-wide world-wide international international industries. industries.

The The well-known well-known brand brand le le 55 STaGIonI STaGIonI IS IS ITalIan ITalIan leader: leader: and and SemI-fInIShed SemI-fInIShed producTS producTS for for pIzza, pIzza, becomInG becomInG ITalIan ITalIan

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selection. selection. Other Other flours flours and and semi-finished semi-finished products products for for bakery bakery (MAG (MAG 98 98 range) range) and and pastry pastry (LE (LE SINFONIE SINFONIE range) range) are are enriching enriching the the offer offer of of AguAgugiaro giaro and and Figna Figna Mills, Mills, responding responding to to the the needs needs of of the the most most exigent exigent propro-

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lified lified experts experts are are always always at at disposal disposal of of the the customers customers for for suggestions suggestions

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ThE ThE mosT mosT compLETE compLETE RANgE RANgE foR foR pIzzA pIzzA fLouRs fLouRs IN IN ThE ThE woRLD, woRLD, To To bE bE fouND fouND oN oN

www.LE5sTAgIoNI.IT

certifications: certifications:

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The conTInual reSearch and The profeSSIonal developmenT are eSSenTIal InGredIenTS for aGuGIaro and fIGna mIllS: ThanSk To new TechnIqueS, new producTS have been developed Such aS drIed moTher yeaST powder naTurkrafT. This is obtained through a spontaneous fermentation of a dough left to rise several times before the right level of acidity is reached.The result

is a dried product which guarantees an excellent rising process of the dough, a crispy, fragrant and extremely tasty pizza, where the flavours of the tradition are obtained thanks to new most innovative technology.

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p. 24

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

Fresh pasta,

Italian passion!

Fresh pasta made at home or made in restaurants is a symbol of quality cuisine

T

he modern Italian restaurant makes great use of fresh pasta, as it was in the old country taverns, when the “female master of the house - parona�, owner of the place, not only attended to many matters related to her work, but also prepared with her own hands the fresh dough to be served at noon and in the evening to her customers. Fresh pasta means essentially homemade pasta and in the past made only by hand and in small quantities and at present, even with the help of modern equipment, and with the ability to produce in greater quantities, but always with the raw material of safe quality and with the same expertise of those sfogline (fresh pasta experts) of the past. But here we can give a closer shot to fresh pasta, following what Roberta Schira wrote on the subject and we will discover many interesting things.

fresh pasta

First of all, fresh pasta means all products that are obtained from a mixture of flour and a liquid component, with optional addition of salt. Fresh pasta is defined as such not by virtue of the date of production, but by its the percentage of humidity.

(30%).

p. 25

Among the oldest fresh pasta, as well as lasagna (laganon or làsanon, greek, because once you were both in Greece and in Rome) there are tortellini or ravioli (dumplings), which spread between the eleventh and fourteenth centuries in many Italian regions, albeit with different names, forms and ingredients.

It is established that until the eleventh century, the term ravioli or tortelli did not identify a specific dish, or, in the elegant tables where they were prepared, this dish had no precise order in the sequence of courses. In those distant times these types of stuffed pasta could be sweet or savory, stuffed with meat or cheese only, cooked in water, broth or fried in olive oil, as in the days of ancient Rome, and above all could be with or without dough (like the existing “naked ravioli” made by some cooks).

Ravioli is the first type of stuffed pasta of which there is reliable information and documented between the eleventh and twelfth centuries. At the end of the thirteenth century in Parma can be found traces of raviolus in the chronicle of Fra Salimbene de Adam (1221-1288), while the official consecration occurs in the Decameron, the famous opera by Giovanni Boccaccio (1313-1375), who, in the third eighth day news mentions ravioli describing the land of plenty: “... naught but did make macaroni and ravioli, and boil them ...”.

In the fifteenth century tortellini and ravioli will be found in cookbooks almost throughout the country.

Conclusion We can therefore safely say that the pasta and, consequently, the stuffed, have a long history that deserves to know. These types of pasta, in fact, as we shall see, characterize and make typical the Italian cuisine since the time of ancient Greece and even more since the Rome of the Caesars, over two thousand years ago and are still present in the whole food (restaurants, inns , pizzerias) Italian, both at home and abroad, and a little ‘history of Italian cooking is essential for those who work in the restaurant world.

by Nives Piva

p. 26

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

FRESH PASTA

— Meaning of the terms —

Pasta

Raviolo

Tortello

The term is due to the greek pasta πάστα that passein or pattein, a word that means to spread, sprinkle. The names of different pasta are often due to the actions for the preparation and the objects that resemble the various shapes.

There are several hypotheses about the etymology of the word ravioli. According Devoto-Camporesi this term derives from the medieval Latin rabiola, ie small turnip, for the size.

Another hypothesis (supported

by Schira) is that it derives from raviggiuolo or raveggiolo, especially cow’s or goat’s milk cheese (rabiole), ubiquitous ingredient in ancient preparations of the dish. According to most accounts, some authoritative, including those of Pellegrino Artusi (1820-1911) and the already mentioned Salimbene de Adam, was intended only the filling and only much later the pastry.

The first mention is in the Liber de Coquina, a treaty gourmetinspired Arab, central to the history of Italian cuisine, prepared in Naples at the court of Charles II of Anjou between 1285 and 1309. In the third book there is a recipe here for De Ravioli ravioli and of course the inside rather than the container.

The gourmet Larousse Dictionary (1st edition 1934), about the ravioli writes: “Food of Italian origin, consisting of a double layer square of pasta noodles stuffed with a filling fat or thin. According to some, the term derives from the Latin “rapum”, turnip, because it would have been, at one time, a small pie with meat and turnips. It seems that the ravioli are coming from Genoa and had originally intended to use the leftovers. The ravioli is one of the most popular stuffed pasta outside of Italy. “

This type of pasta is different from the historically ravioli stuffed with lean but for some etymological hypothesis smentirebbero this definition. It is considered historically valid definition of the shape: square for ravioli, rolled around a finger for the ravioli.

Among the various interpretations over time this term, there are those who say that it derives from the Provençal tortelh, diminutive of cake, to indicate the habit of twisting, ie squeeze the vegetables to which it gave form of small cakes before cook.

Bartolomeo Sacchi said Platina (1421-1481), in the eighth book of his De honesta Voluptate et valetudine of 1467 speaks of food in the cake. In the past more than a ravioli dish itself was considered a way to serve certain ingredients. Bartolomeo Sacchi for the squeezed the filling is not the case.

Agnoli, Agnellotti, Agnolotti Probably attributable to the first meat used in the filling ie lamb, from which agnellotto and then agnolotto but more likely to form circular ring.

The cook Piedmont, 1771 mentions the Italian agnellotti both skinny fat. In Turin anulot was the tool that was originally used to cut them in a ring shape. Then the form is changed to the current one, square, where the dough is cut with the hand wheel called the hunchback.

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2013

pizza e pasta italiana

Tomato

by Gianandrea Rorato

tomato

p. 29

Hernán Cortés and the arrival in Europe

The beautiful story of a vegetable that has changed the European cuisine @

I

n Italian and international restaurants above all pizza restaurants, tomato plays a very important role and, although in Italy it has become an eaten food only in recent times, no one could understand today’s Italian cuisine without considering tomato.

For a short time it was also called red gold, for its great importance in areas where it is grown and in these notes we want to point out that its homeland is Central and South America and the southern part of North America, the vast area that lies between the deep South of the U.S., Mexico and Peru.

The Aztecs called it xitomatl. The term tomatl identifies various similar fruits, usually juicy and we know that the Az-

tecs were the first to promote it, as we know that tomato sauce used as food became an integral part of the pre-Columbian population. We remembered the names with which tomato was called

by Aztecs, but as it arrived in Europe, it has been given different names such as pomme d’or, probably for its yellow colour more or less brilliant, and like gold, then, more romantically, the French called it pomme d’amour, “love apple”, because it was said to possess aphrodisiac properties (in order to spread its usage, people have resorted to this ploy). Other people state however, that this name was given by Sir Walter Raleigh, the English lord who would have donated a beautiful tomato plant to Queen Elizabeth, christening it with the name of apples of love.

Spaniards were to discover this solanaceae (its scientific name we will see the card) in Mexico who, led by Hernán Cortés (1485-1547), had conquered the Aztec territory (1519-22) and when the conqueror of Mexico returned to Spain in 1523, in his rich booty there was also a tomato plant.

In Italy it became known in 1544, in the first half of the ‘500 it arrived in France in the second half of the century in Switzerland and the Netherlands and at the end of the century in England. In ‘600 the Spaniards took it to Morocco and from there it spread slowly to other African countries.

Spaniards, in the decades immediately following the discovery of Cristoforo Colombo (1492) had noted that in the New World, the fruit of this plant was very used by the natives, the conquerors called by the generic name of “Indians”, but the Spanish soldiers did not like it.

The plant is rich in fruits, however, was very nice and flashy, and took it to Europe mainly for its aesthetic qualities.

Once arrived in Italy, the great scholar of botany Pierandrea Mattioli quotes it in 1544, but as “mala insane”, therefore not suitable for consumption (the same fate will befall the eggplant), considering it among the poisonous species. Exactly a century later, in 1644, another scholar, Vincenzo Tanara, author of “ Economy of the citizen living in a villa,” mentions only in passing among the vegetables, considering it more appropriate to be included as an ornamental plant for gardens. Thus, in the mid-600 the tomato was not yet considered a food.

The ancestral tomato It is believed that its spontaneous form is the original tomato Lycopersicum cerasiforme that still grows in the wild in some areas of the Americas (Peru, West Indies, Texas) and the numerous cultivars existing today in the world derive from a long succession of crosses and selections,. It should be said that in recent years there has been a rediscovery and revival of Lycopersicum cerasiforme, although the current “cherry tomato” as well as the “plum”, are not the originals, but the result of careful selection and of genetic engineering that knows how to rediscover, revive and re-evaluate what is good and what nature has been able to give us over the millennia, without resorting to the “GMO” (genetically modified organisms), [...]

p. 30

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pizza e pasta italiana

technical sheet

01

— Classification, and biodiversity values of tomato Tomato was not yet recognized as a food plant, being still almost exclusively ornamental when in 1753 the Swedish physician and naturalist Carl Nilsson Linnaeus, who, becoming noble, took the name Carl von Linné (1707-1778), made the first classification of the genre Solanum, calling it Solanum lycopersicum (the term “Lyco-persicum” belongs to the Latin language and means “wolf peach”). Also other plants belong to the genre solanum, such as potato and eggplant, and it led a few years later, in 1768, another botanist, the Scotsman Philip Miller (1691-1771), a partial change of the scientific name, in fact, he named the tomato Lycopersicon esculentum.

The new name had a notable success, but scholars believed it a wrong name and then the German botanist Hermann Karsten (1817-1908) had his say, in 1881 he corrected what different scholars considered a mistake and gave tomato the name of Lycopersicon lycopersicum.

In recent years, scholars, using the techniques of molecular biology, made a further change, in line with the real biological characteristics of the plant and called tomato Solanum lycopersicum, just as it did over two centuries before Carlo Linneo, although in different publications is still the name given by Miller. This is all as far as the name is considered.

We have to clarify that the varieties grown around the world are many, but the best known and cultivated is the red-berry, which comes in various shapes.

Tomato fruits, however, also occur in other colors. They range in color from white cultivars (white queen, white tomesol) to those yellow (Douce de Picardie, wendy, lemon), pink (thai pink), orange (Moonglow), green even when ripe (green zebra), and even purple (black Crimea, perfect purple).In some cultivars the skin is slightly hairy, like the skin of a peach.

Even with regard to the shape differences are many. There are, in fact, long tomatoes (San Marzano), round and very large (beefsteak), cherry-shaped, in clusters (reisetomaten), and even cables inside ( tomato a farcir) and again become fashionable, the cherry tomatoes, so called because they are similar to cherries.

In recent years, genetic engineering is constantly producing new cultivars, to grow productive plants in particularly hot areas, or deprived of water, or very windy, etc.., Managing to get some berries aimed at very specific uses: raw salad, more or less tender to taste, cooked, to be stuffed, suitable to be dried, to become peeled, canned, double concentrate, etc.

There are many laboratories in the world operating in this area, then spreading to all continents of the new cultivar.

The raw tomato has a low nutritional value (the water represents more than 90% by weight); proteins are less than 1% and 4-5% sugar. The calories are about 23-34 per 100 g, 100 g contains 1 mg of vitamin A, 30 mg of vitamin C and little else.

Rather abundant lycopene (especially in cooked tomato) considered valuable for its ability to fight free radicals.

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p. 32

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

technical sheet

02

— Tomato models

stalk of the leaf pedweald insertion

sead cavity

stiliar axis

epicarpo o buccia

pulp or mesocarp

fibrovascolar bundles

endocarp seaps

extrenty

— Tomato varieties

In the berry from the outside inwards the following tissues can be distinguished: Epicarp (peel). Mesocarp (pulp) of this part is fleshy and full of juice, sweettart flavor characteristic. Endocarp: it is divided into the cavity (2 or more lodges) containing a mucilaginous liquid (placental juice) in which there are embedded small seeds, discoidal-flattenedovoid, rough, yellowish in color and rich oil.

Both fat and proteins are contained in the seeds and therefore are not available for human nutrition. The red pigment

lycopene present in the mature product replaces gradually the pigment chlorophyll, responsible for the initial green color. The dry matter content of the fruits increases with the ripening process and can vary from 3% to 8%. The content of sugars (glucose and fructose) and acids (citric acid and malic acid) varies significantly with the varieties, with the ripeness of the fruit and the pedoclimatic conditions of the environment and culture. The tomato juice obtained by crushing and sieving of the berries after removal of the skins and seeds, is a suspension of pulp.

we would like to thank Dott. Giancarlo Gonizza, coordinator a Parma Food Musium for his precious contribution

p. 34

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

n i g r vi ital

– the –

extra

ian

olive oil I

taly is the second European country for the production of olive oil with a national average production of around 500 000 tons (480.000 this year), the southern regions, Puglia, Calabria and Sicily, have an impact on domestic production by about 80%. The remaining production is concentrated between Tuscany, Liguria, Umbria and Abruzzo and a good production, ultimately increasing, it is also in the regions of Northern Italy:

Emilia-Romagna, Friuli Venezia Giulia, especially behind Trieste, in Veneto all along the foothills from Treviso to Lake Garda, as well as in Berici Hills and in Lombardia, principally around the lakes.

Of the approximately 500 thousand tons of olive oil produced in Italy two thirds are given by oil, with 43 Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) recognized by the European Union, but the Dop account for only 2% of the total of extra. Too little to ask the international markets with the European label that guarantees the highest quality of product.

p. 35

A product of high quality, unique features, now present on every continent.

The high percentage of olive oil, however, is to show that producers in every region of Italy devote great care to the entire supply chain, from the olive, to the mill, storage and marketing.

In addition to the 43 there are 73 oil PDO PGI (Protected Geographical Indication), both recognized by the European Union, however, despite the large number of awards the Italian reality Dop, as we mentioned earlier, is still a very small niche.

The data is unflattering, but many Italian producers are placed on the market for years with their name, buying major awards in competitions and tastings in Italy and abroad. The Italian extra virgin olive oil, in addition to having unique and highly valued by chefs and gourmet international, when produced by the large number of small and medium-sized companies directly from their olives ensures a closer and more easily recognizable link with the territories' origin.

It is also known that the production of extra virgin olive oil DOP Italian demands high professionalism on the part of growers and millers and their work begins in the groves, usually treated as gardens. The olives are then collected at the time of ripeness and quality of the oil obtained depends both on the place of production, generally hilly and stony, that from the variety of olives, since each type has its own flavor which depends on the cultivar. In Northern Italy there are usually oils delicate, slightly fruity, while in the South there are oils more intense flavor marked, often aromatic, although for several years now, the professional culture of operators and technologies used ensure throughout Italy, the extra virgin olive oils of the highest quality, considered by international experts the best in the world.

p. 36

2013

the extra virgin italian olive oil pizza e pasta italiana

In presenting Italian 201213 production data, Senator Colomba Mongiello, who gave her name to the latest provision on olive oil – for international recognition said that "A country that relies on the production of value derived from inimitable mix of varieties, a unique heritage of extra virgin PDO must make choices more and more courageous in the direction of its visibility and the protection of his identity.

The new law that fights fake made in Italy, he added, using the issue of protecting origin as a factor of differentiation against the globalization of markets and the confusion of the shelf. It 'a law sought by the Italian Parliament to help consumers make informed purchasing decisions and to combat those who sell oil only made cheating. " The extra virgin Italian olive oil still has conquered the world and, with the qualification PDO or PGI, with the words "extra virgin Italian olive oil", you will find more and more in the most famous Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe, America and Asia, confirming in this way that the Italian production of extra virgin olive oil I have no respect in the world.

by Giampiero Rorato

p. 37

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live trees are an integral part of the beauty of Umbria. Prized olives are grown in a green and fertile landscape. F.lli Venturi was founded in this context. The company specialises in the production of olive oil that meets the requirements of a constantly expanding, informed and demanding clien-

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Oil with a sweet taste recalling almonds with a slightly fruity bouquet.

Ideal for all uses in cuisine; an extra virgin olive oil that valorises the taste of food and indicated for those who prefer a delicate taste.

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p. 38

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

a small D.o.c with great wines -

Area of production

Val D’Orcia is known since ancient times for its unique landscape, protected by UNESCO and it is a growing destination for tourists from all around the world.

Val d'Orcia produces excellent wines, fine extra virgin olive oil and other delicacies such as the precious white truffle and saffron, as well as meats and cheeses.

Speaking of wine, the production area includes 13 beautiful Orcia DOC municipalities of which Buonconvento, Castiglione d'Orcia, Pienza, Radicofani, San Giovanni d'Asso, San Quirico d'Orcia, Trequanda and, in part, Abbadia San Salvatore, Chianciano Terme, Montalcino, San Casciano dei Bagni, Sarteano Torrita of Siena.

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p. 40

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

WINE 2 of 3

WINES The three Orcia DOC wines: White, Red and Vin Santo, it is now been added the Orcia Sangiovese "Reserve". A complex wine of great refinement, which must be subjected to an aging process of at least 30 months, of which at least 24 in barrels of oak. The qualification will also be given to Orcia Reserve Red subjected to aging of at least 18 months, of which at least 12 in barrels of oak.

The white wine is made from Trebbiano Toscano at least 50%, and varieties recommended / authorized non-aromatic white for the other half. While the Orcia Rosso grapes that make it up are the Sangiovese at least 60% and other non-aromatic grapes recommended / approved by the Region to 40%, of which more than 10% white.

For Orcia Rosso: Sangiovese at least 60% and the remaining 40% of non-aromatic red grapes. For Orcia Sangiovese: Sangiovese minimum 90% and 10% of black grapes Canaiolo, Colorino ciliegiolo leaf round and Malvasia Nera.

A certainly serious and concrete yield of grapes per hectare to 80 quintals desired. The same yield of the greatest Italian wines. The Vin Santo is produced with Trebbiano Toscano and varieties recommended / authorized non-aromatic white for the other half. The grapes must be left to dry naturally and fermented between 1 December and 31 March of the following year, and the wine must be aged for at least three years in traditional oak barrels.

Orcia Novello is also foreseen at the discretion of the manufacturer.

With the Reserve Doc Orcia Sangiovese there will be a greater characterization of wine, taking into account different soil and climatic conditions of the area. No coincidence that some manufacturers already doing the Orcia Rosso with only sangiovese, have found wide acceptance both in Italy and abroad.

But few valid types of wine that, although originating from different grape varieties, are characterized by particular soil and climate factors (soils rich in minerals and temperature variations between day and night), giving freshness and a fruity taste, colored intensity, bouquet and structure, and velvet flavor with Vin Santo. In addition, the Orcia DOC matchesbetter with both typical local dishes as with other similar national cuisine.

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p. 42

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

WINE 3 of 3

The Doc Orcia in figures Now the surface of vineyards registered in the Doc Orcia and 400 hectares, of which 90 wine-producing members of the Consortium. The latest data shows that the grapes produced by the members of the Consortium are about 5,200 tons.

While the bottles produced, rose from 160 000 in 2008 to the current 250,000. At this time the members of the Consortium are 40 companies, of which 30 bottlers.

up

Wineyards Orcia DOC down

Donella Vanetti head of Orcia Doc wine consortium

Enhancement Orcia DOC To Donella Vannetti goes the honor and the burden of carrying the flag Doc Orcia Dynamic farmer and president of the Consorzio del Vino Doc Orcia, the Vannetti has clear ideas about what needs to be done.

Suffice it to say that if the Doc Orcia has made only 12 of 14 February 2012, the Orcia wines have already earned their market. A result of absolute importance, since the Doc Orcia is among the most renowned of the Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Have in common, even if of different clones, the sangiovese.

A vine, present for centuries in these areas, it is now in perfect symbiosis with the territory. But the merit of having believed

in the resources of the area and started the development of the wine, it is for some manufacturers of San Quirico d'Orcia. From their tenacious industry, born in 2000, the Doc Orcia and together, the Consorzio del Vino Orcia, chaired by Donella Vannetti outset. After only a few years, in 2005, Donella Vannetti makes an important event for the Doc Orcia, calling it "Divine Orcia." Annual traveling exhibition of all the municipalities in the area of production. An event that attracts journalists from all over Italy. In these wine-cultural festival, every country touched, showcases its gastronomic treasures, as well as landscape, historic houses and sites and traditions.

p. 44

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

Wine corner

by Virgilio Pronzati

Toscana Igt Rosso Moro di Sangiovanni 2009 Il Moro s.a.s.

Road Vicinale del Moro 14 53020 San Giovanni d’Asso (SI) www.ilmorodisangiovanni.com info@ilmorodisangiovanni.com

CATEGORY Red dry.

Grape varieties: cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, petit verdot. Bottle: 75 cl.

Alcohol: 14%. Lot: 001. Bottles produced: about 5,000. Average price in wine: € 45.30. Storage: in the basement, in a horizontal position on shelves used for red wines of medium to long aging at a temperature between 12 and 14 ° C. Time consumption: still 4-5 years.

Evolution: young but fairly balanced.

Service: pour at 17-18 ° C in large glasses with medium stem. Match: bigoli or pici with duck sauce, tripe alla fiorentina, braised beef, pecorino di Pienza cheese.

ORGANOLEPTIC EXAMINATION Clarity: clear.

Colour: ruby red violet edge.

Bouquet: intense, persistent, with distinct fruity, balsamic and spicy blueberry, cherry and blackberry mature and a little macerated tobacco leaf, herbs and balsamic, maple syrup and mild woody and black pepper.

Taste: dry, fairly cool and fruity, warm, with a clear but pleasant tannic vein, full but slender, persistent, with a bitter aftertaste.

Aftertaste: vein tannic and fruity notes, balsamic-spicy vegetable (licorice, coffee and tar).

CONSIDERATIONS Very good.

Obtained from selected Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Cabernet Franc (45%) and Petit Verdot (10%) of a vineyard of six years with a yield of 16 quintals per hectare of organic management, situated east of the town of Montalcino.

Vinification: The grapes were crushed and fermented slowly in stainless steel containers at a controlled temperature.

The maturation of the wine takes place in barriques for 50% and the rest of the second step, where he remained for about a year. Here are a few months of aging in bottle. Throughout the process, the wine is free from chemical treatments.

APPEARANCE Clarity 4. Color 5.

— PERFUME Intensity 5. Persistence 5.

Fineness 4. Harmony 4. — TASTE Persistence 5. Fullness 5. Sapidity 4.

Acidity/softness 5. Harmony 4.

— RATING Excellent 4.

TOTAL SCORE

54 /60

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2013

pizza e pasta italiana

WINE CORNER

Aglianico del Vulture Doc 2007 Taverna Agricultural Society Contrada Taverna 75020 Nova Siri (MT) www.aataverna.com info@aataverna.com

Umbria IGT 2007 Calanco Le Velette Location Le Velette 05018 Orvieto (TR) www.levelette.it info@levelette.it

CATEGORY Red dry. Grape variety: Aglianico. Bottle: 75 cl. Alcohol: 14%. Lot: 11A11. Bottles produced: 8,000. Average price in wine: € 9.80. Storage: in the basement, in a horizontal position on shelves used for red wines of medium to long aging at a temperature between 12 and 14 ° C. Time consumption: still 4-5 years. Evolution: young but good harmony. Service: pour at 17-18 ° C in large glasses with medium stem. Pairing: grilled sausages Lucan, morseddu (toasted bread with offal stew), wild boar on the spit, seasoned cheese.

ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS Clarity: clear.

Colour: ruby red almost purple rim load.

Bouquet: intense, persistent, very fine, with clear hints of fruit, vegetable and spicy-balsamic jam wild red berries, herbs and balsamic mountain, white pepper and juniper ground.

Taste: dry but soft, fairly cool and fruity, warm, rightly astringent, full but slender, persistent, with a pleasant bitter aftertaste. Aftertaste: vein tannic and fruity notes, vegetal, balsamic and spicy.

CATEGORY Red dry.

Grapes: Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Bottle: 75 cl. Alcohol: 13%. Lot: 3 8 11.

Average price in wine: € 19.80. Storage: in the basement, in a horizontal position on shelves used for red wines of medium to long aging at a temperature between 12 and 14 ° C. Time consumption: still 5-6 years. Evolution: young but already quite balanced. Service: pour at 17-18 ° C in large glasses with medium stem. Match: sausages, roast rabbit, pork stew, rabbit stew, medium aged provolone.

ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS Clarity: clear. Colour: ruby red with load purple rim. Bouquet: intense, persistent, fine, wide, with distinct floral, herbal, fruity and spicy dried flowers, blueberry jam, blackberry, cherry and Durona, herbs and balsamic, pepper and ground mace, and slightly woody. Taste: dry, sufficiently fresh, fruity, tannic, warm, full but slender, persistent, with pleasant background-astringent aftertaste.

Aftertaste: astringent vein and floral notes, vegetable, fruit and spice.

CONSIDERATIONS Very good.

Obtained from selected Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Cabernet Franc (45%) and Petit Verdot (10%) of a vineyard of six years with a yield of 16 quintals per hectare of organic management, situated east of the town of Montalcino. Vinification: The grapes were crushed and fermented slowly in stainless steel containers at a controlled temperature. The maturation of the wine takes place in barriques for 50% and the rest of the second step, where he remained for about a year. Here are a few months of aging in bottle. Throughout the process, the wine is free from chemical treatments.

APPEARANCE Clarity 5. Color 5.

— PERFUME Intensity 5. Persistence 5.

Fineness 5. Harmony 5. — TASTE Persistence 5. Fullness 4. Sapidity 4.

Acidity/softness 4. Harmony 4.

— RATING Excellent 5.

TOTAL SCORE

56 /60 CONSIDERATIONS Very good.

Obtained from selected Sangiovese grapes (65%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) of vines average age of 19 years with a yield of 60 quintals per hectare, pigiadiraspate, fermented for about 10 days at 27 ° C, and marinate for other 13-14 days. After racking and malolactic fermentation, the wine is aged for 15 months in barriques. Following an additional break of about 4 months in stainless steel tanks and aged for 13 months in bottle.

APPEARANCE Clarity 5. Color 5.

— PERFUME Intensity 5. Persistence 5.

Fineness 4. Harmony 4. — TASTE Persistence 5. Fullness 4. Sapidity 4.

Acidity/softness 4. Harmony 4.

— RATING Excellent 4.

TOTAL SCORE

53 /60

SMART FOOD CONCEPT

O VAT I O N I N C AT E R I N G

O V A T I O N S

I N

C A T E R I N G

I N N O VAT I O N I N C AT E R I N G

I N N O V A T I O N S

I N

C A T E R I N G

I T A L I A N I T A L I A N

I N N O V A T I O N S

I T A L I A N

I T A L I A N I T A L I A N

I N N O V A T I O N S

I N N O V A T I O N S

I N N O V A T I O N S

I N N O V A T I O N S

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2013

pizza e pasta italiana

GRAPPA — the Italian most famous distillate in the world

by Gianandrea Rorato

bar

G

rappa, this warm, pleasant, attractive Italian distillate, is known throughout the world, led by the first emigrants, hidden along with some salami, among the clothes in cardboard suitcases, when, in the second half of the 800, started by their countries to the Americas in search of work and food, and produced in the same places of emigration where Italian immigrants planted and cultivated the vine to continue to have on their table a glass of wine.

In more recent times, starting from the last war, and the last 50 years have been the same Italian distilleries, the larger, export brandy, starting with countries where there were Italians. The grappa arrived so in Germany, Switzerland, England, France, North and South America and, in recent years, also came up in the East and in Japan, becoming known and appreciated by the inhabitants of these countries.

In recent years, the evolution (change) of the customs of life, for the introduction of anti-alcohol laws in many countries, and the choice, especially in the young generations, of new drinks, the sales of grappa have suffered a negative trend.

A number of distillers, in fact, has experimented with new types of grappa, or refining wisely the product obtained, or giving an aroma with fruit (as was already long in Trentino-Alto Adige), or giving them new flavors, such as the peat, or lowering the alcohol content and results in the market have shown positive results.

In the last decades of the last century, then, were born to the happy intuition of Friuli Nonino grappa from the single variety, ie grappa fruit wine distillation of one variety: o Soave, or Barolo, or Merlot, or Picolit , etc.. The selection of skins for only single-varietal grappa was then extended to many other distilleries. At the same time there was the big news of the so-called grape distillate, to give an elegant and refined, devoid of the less noble from the skins of grapes and the famous Prime distillery Venetian Bonaventura Maschio has gained with his refinement and Its delicate scent not only the Italian gourmets, being in great demand abroad.

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2013

pizza e pasta italiana

BAR

The origin of grappa We started, months ago, our history spirits starting from France, namely Armagnac, documenting the beginning of distillation at the end of the Middle Ages when Europeans made their own art that had developed in the Arab world who came to France, learning or by the Arabs of Spain (expelled from Granada in 1492) or, as the legends, some crusader who had taken possession of Levante in a still, stolen from a Saracen camp.

And, while in France the beginning of the distillation took place using as raw material the wine (which in those areas was of poor quality and therefore not marketable), in Italy, where wine has always been fairly good (today, with the technical knowledge existing good) the wine was distilled and it was discovered that the pomace - the grape skins just pressed and still wet with juice - lend themselves very well to be distilled, giving an alcoholic product of great interest. All this began, but then so rudimentary, at the end of the Middle Ages, between 1300 and 1400

and it is said that the Italian region where it began the production of grappa was Piedmont, due to its proximity to France with which they were already in close relations and trade.

Then the art of distilling spread throughout northern Italy, especially in areas of intense winemaking.

All distillates using as raw material the fruit of the vine are called spirits.

The grappa is made from the fruit of the vine, but it is only to be called grappa brandy made from pomace. To be called grappa, the raw material (marc) must be obtained from grapes grown and vinified in Italy, distilled in plants located in the national territory and comply with certain standards laid down by the legislation in force.

Grappa is a brandy unique because it is the only one to be produced from a solid raw material required to post directly in pot stills. It is also the product of a specific geographic area - Italy - and a technology developed over centuries. These three features give it absolute authenticity, not be confused with similar distillates produced in other countries, who can not bear the name grappa, which is only in Italian.

p. 51

Via P. Grocco, 917/919 - 27036 Mortara (PV) ITA Tel. +39 0384 298479 - Fax. +39 0384 299057 www.molinovigevano.com commerciale@molinovigevano.it

COMPANY PROFILE

I n 1936, in this land so rich of milling tradition, Molino Vigevano was born. Milling tradition is even more ancient in the Monferrato Italian region and maintains, even today, that rural mark that its founders, with incomparable passion and work, moved to the very hearth of Vigevano, with their experience and knowhow in the field. But if we want to speak about Molino Vigevano, we have to think on a modern company with high-technology plants, even if the ancient building is the same as before, a great example of industrial architecture of the beginning of XXth century, with the courtyard where trucks loaded with wheat enter... but technology is also here. It doesn’t matter if today the flour produced by the Molino Vigevano is one of the most refined, innovative and ductile on the market: everything was born like this, and it remains linked to an original and simple product, respectful of a classic and natural production process. This was possible thanks to the pairing of technologic evolution and tradition, together with a business spirit.

In the laboratory of molino vigevano, where analysis and research to enhance quality are carried out In order to meet the needs of clients and to provide sector professionals with the best quality products, Molino Vigevano has decided to invest in direct communication and, consequently, in information, by organizing masters with the operators in order to promote the correct use of its flours. For this reason, in the headquarter of the company, coursers for beginner and professional pizza makers have been organised. As the owners maintain, it is because, to obtain the best results from flours, it is necessary to know their correct use. The courses include theoretical lessons but also practical tests.

An exclusive ingredient for a

greaty result

p. 52

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

The world of coffee

and its new trends.

Coffee is a product that for centuries has

made people happier and it gives pleasure in every corner of the world for its intoxicating aroma. In fact, it cannot be considered a food to all intents and purposes, in the sense that it provides essential nutrients for a healthy diet, but it is for many more the pleasure of waking up in the morning or meet at the bar with a friend or the need to give more zeal to daily work.

coffee titolo della rubrica

A 

round the world it is considered a social factor and an irreplaceable sensory.

But behind the magical drink that we savor in our cups there is a whole market that ranks well in second place among the most traded commodity just behind oil, it is in fact called "green gold".

Briefly, coffee comes from a plant a couple of meters tall, which lives in the countries located between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn, mainly in Central America, South America, Africa, Vietnam, India and Indonesia, producing yellow or red cherries containing within them the two green seeds, which as a result of specific processes are roasted, ground and served around the world as espresso or mocha or infusion or other extraction systems.

The green coffee supply chain is very important for the final quality of the drink which is influenced by many factors, such as choice of variety depending on the terrain and climatic conditions, cultural practices and agricultural operations and the grain that if you play in a correct, they emerge in all its aroma characteristics typical of a region or a plantation.

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2013

pizza e pasta italiana

COFFEE 3 of 4

Certainly the step of roasting is considered an art, in which we Italians are considered Masters experience and skill toasting or cooking at temperatures above 200 째 C the green coffee as a result of this process becomes not only its structure but creates aromatic chemical compounds that after grinding and extraction in water, they drink coffee that we all know.

Italy is also the birthplace of espresso, one of many possible forms of extraction: the mastery toasting, mix and remove from different coffee-producing countries creating the most famous drink in the world is undoubtedly an art.

The coffee that you know and drink regularly at the bar or when shopping at the supermarket is in fact composed of a mixture of various coffee grains, each with its typical sensory characteristics: with the mixture, in fact, we are able to create a symphony of harmonious aromas and flavors that give completeness and roundness on the palate.

You can describe a gourmet blend of high quality as fine and clotted acid (acidity in coffee is a virtue related to the altitude of plantations), aromatically rich ripe fruit and fresh flowers, body round and enveloping and lingering aftertaste of cocoa and spices.

Two varieties are known especially for sensory characteristics and used in mixtures: Arabica, high sensory quality that brings the scent of fruit and flowers and fine acidity while Robusta is used in mixtures for more roundness and a more substantial contribution in caffeine.

p. 55

Stefano Ferrara Forni Via Dante Alighieri, 18 80010 Quarto (NA) Italy Tel./Fax +39 081 8761664 www.stefanoferraraforni.it

S

tefano Ferrara Forni builds handmade wood burning brick ovens respecting the ancient tradition.

The owner “Stefano Ferrara” is the third generation of Neapolitan oven builder , he builds his ovens for which besides than the handcrafted tradition there is a great research and love for every detail.

Plain of cooking of Biscotto di Sorrento, crown and dome of refractory bricks that bear temperatures over 900 °C, natural insulation, together to the corre ct construction’s techniques and right sizes make of these ovens the best ovens for cooking Neapolitan pizza. Also the perfect heat retention and the correct reflection of this last one into the cooking room allow a gradual and homogeneous baking of pizza with also a remarkable saving of firewood and baking times. Recognized, appreciated and requested all over the world , Stefano Ferrara wood ovens are approved by AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana) and they carry American certifications such as UL about safety and NSF about sanitation.

For meet the need of some customers that could not install a wood oven for particular reasons but that didn’t want renounce to the performance of a Neapolitan oven, in the last years Stefano Ferrara has projected and built electrical ovens and gas ovens These ovens are built brick by brick with the same materials like a traditional wood oven just the heat source is different as in the electrical ovens it consist in electric resistors while in the gas oven it consist in a gas burner . For both ovens an external electronic unit control allows the management of the temperature that can be setted according the needs.

A new production that offers practicality and innovation without sacrificing the tradition.

p. 56

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

COFFEE 4 of 4

But learning and drawing producing countries who drink their coffee as they collect, that is not mixed like us, the global market is rediscovering the pleasure to appreciate the typical characteristics of each single sip with its unmistakable sensory notes.

He begins to speak, therefore, enhance the traceability also in the coffee and take a cup of coffee from a single country producer to appreciate the typical chain linked to the green, to the detriment of the sensory completeness of the mixture that is well known.

We are learning to appreciate the hints of bitter chocolate coffee from Brazil or grapefruit acidity that tends to Costa Rica or El Salvador or the spicy and bitter orange Ethiopia or the delicate but important roundness of India.

In El Salvador actually can be found in a charter of specialized coffee bar where you can choose the coffee from a specific plantation or lot within it the typical sensory notes and then even the method of extraction for that individual coffee (espresso or infusion or French press ...) to enhance the local attractions.

The coffee industry is undoubtedly becoming increasingly important sensory quality and not only for professionals, but also the consumer begins to take specific products and characterized to discover and appreciate the merits of the individual coffee producing countries are able to offer experiences sensory unique and unforgettable.

Dr. Eliana Cossio, Phd elianacossio@innofoodsolutions.com; www.innofoosolutions.com

p. 60

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

For each food

the most suitable water: here how to choose!

Dott.ssa Marisa Cammarano - food biologist

D

rinking water in many restaurants means choosing between "sparkling" and "natural", in recent times, however, a change is to be witnessed. In Italy, but also abroad, restaurants and bars are opened which serves water from all regions of the world, with the aim of discovering new flavors in water. On the table in the restaurants there can be no wine, but for sure the bottle of water never fails! So why not take the opportunity to choose what we like ...

Mineral waters are not all the same, may have more or less taste, more or less personality, just like wine.

Taste and personality depend mainly on their mineralization, but the taste of the water can also be adjusted by the percentage of carbon dioxide. Mineral waters are lighter less identifiable, a few milligrams of TDS make waters almost indistinguishable on the palate, while the increase of dissolved salts and the type of gassing, give them a clear identitification: some in fact have a nice tangy scent, other leave in the mouth a feeling of lightness and freshness, others have a slightly bitter aftertaste or chalky. How effervescence, the so-called sparkling mineral water, with a wide range of perlage, this depends on the amount of gas contained. It is interesting to see how on the tables of our houses waters are preferred organoleptically inert (which have no taste), while in restaurants there are usually more flavorful water and full-bodied. Just like wine for mineral waters there are some simple rules to

enhance the taste. Those "flat" (non-carbonated) should never be drunk cold, low temperature numbs the taste buds and hides the organoleptic characteristics of each water. "Sparkling" (natural or not) on the contrary, should taste fresh, and may be accompanied by seasoned food: the effervescence helps cleanse the mouth and aids digestion. Finally, as for the wine, mineral water needs to be appreciated in full, the right glass to make the most every nuance, mineral water should be poured into a crystal glass. It can however be remedied with glasses, carefully avoiding plastic ones, that interact negatively on the taste. The shape does not interfere in a decisive way on the flat tasting water, however, for the sparkling, would be indicated a goblet, so that the cool temperature of the water to be altered as little as possible by the contact of the hand on the glass.

The "Charter of waters" is an opportunity to get a guided use of water is most suitable, not only to our well-being, but also to the plate before us.

food science

"WATER LIST"

Characteristics Usually mineral water comes from the mountains, at high altitudes, in a pristine environment, untouched by nature and by man. An important role, therefore, in determining the characteristics of lightness, clarity, purity and goodness is played by the geological structure of the territory in which it arises.

Here's how the water must be after a careful organoleptic analysis: - Perfectly clear and transparent; - Colorless with some bluish reflection; - Large bubbles indicate a large percentage of gas, medium size bubbles correspond to an average quantity of gas and small bubbles correspond to a low presence of gas; - Absence of unpleasant odors, only in the event of volcanic origin may have a slight odor of sulfur; - Palatable water, and water is tasteless or defined with a bland flavor. Tasting the water could also arise the sensation of bitterness, sulphurous acid and calcareous.

Unfortunately, the sales network spreads a few types of water, and the superficiality of consumer and restaurateur who distinguish mistakenly only "natural" or "carbonated", do not help the knowledge of

this unique and vital product to the life of menkind. Therefore it is necessary to start talking about "mineral water" and not (only) "mineral water".

When we buy mineral water it is important to read the label carefully, whether we use it to quench our thirst between meals, and assume that in combination with food. In the latter case, after assuring that water is mineral and not of tap water or treated, the main parameters to be observed are the fixed residues and when it is flat, slightly effervescent or effervescent. With these parameters you can pass to the combination rule, because to get the perfect combination you need to taste every single dish as food are never the same, either in absolute and in water, or in combination, will vary depending on quantity and quality of spices or seasonings added and with the different cooking methods.

p. 61

- MEDIUM MINERAL WATER Fixed residue: between 500 and 1500 mg / l (medium high content of salts).

Good water table, the health effects vary with the salt content.

- WATER RICH IN MINERALS -

Fixed residue: more than 1500 mg / l (very high salt content).

Recommended mainly for therapeutic uses, for the high presence of sodium, sulfates, potassium, magnesium and other salts. Are not recommended for everyday use.

GASSING The gases dissolved in the water are: oxygen, nitrogen, carbon dioxide. The amount of CO2 present, is used to distinguish the waters:

FLAT The carbon dioxide is present in minimal quantities.

FIXED SOLID Corresponding to the quantity of salts remaining after evaporation to dryness at 180 째 to one liter of water. Depending on the fixed residue mineral waters are classified into:

- minimally mineralized WATER Fixed residue: less than 50 mg / l (very low salt content).

Suitable for anyone especially for those who have urinary problems especially kidney: increased diuresis and facilitate the elimination of uric acid and waste products of metabolism.

- WATER OR MICROINGREDIENTS slightly mineralized Fixed residue: greater than 50 mg / l and less than 500 mg / l (low salt content).

Recommended for daily consumption. Also play a diuretic and purifying.

SPARKLING SPARKLING O The carbon dioxide is added.

Acidic Are added more than 250 mg of carbon dioxide.

SPARKLING NATURAL Flows from the source with at least 250 mg of carbon dioxide.

Aerated waters quench best in numbing the nerve endings in the oral mucosa involved in the desire to drink and induce swelling of the stomach producing apparent satiety

PH Expresses the alkalinity (values> of 7) or the acidity (values <of 7).

The ideal PH is neutral, ie between 6.5 and 7.5.

p. 62

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

FOOD SCIENCE

WHAT MINERAL SALTS? WHAT WATER? Sulphate

Bicarbonated WATER Bicarbonate above 600 mg/l.

It helps digestion because it lowers the acidity in the first part of the intestine if taken with meals. Buffers the acidity if taken on an empty stomach.

Recommended to those who make sport as bicarbonate and calcium may counteract the waste of muscle metabolism.

Sulfates above 200 mg/l.

Plays a balancing stomach and produces a relaxing effect on the muscles of bile. Recommended for those who suffer from biliary disorders and constipation.

Minimally mineralized Oligomineral

Minerals

Mineral-rich

Flat Product minimally mineralized Oligomineral Minerals

WATER magnesium

fluoride above 1 mg/l.

A lack of fluoride in the body promotes tooth decay. Recommended for pregnant women because the first impression of the tooth is formed already in the fetus and children, always at rates not higher than 1.5 mg / l for periods of time.

Magnesium above 50 mg/l.

Magnesium plays functions laxative and depressing the nervous system.

WATER Calcium Calcium above 150 mg/l.

Recommended for children growing, pregnant women, menopausal women, elderly people with problems of osteoporosis and those who do not take the calcium in dairy products.

... and some advice to perfectly suit your food!

Effervescent Natural

Fluoridated water

Pairings Mozzarella egg pasta topped with olive oil, egg pasta filled with ricotta cheese and vegetables

Sparkling Slightly mineralized (TDS Less than 50 mg/l) Mineral content (dry residue between 51 and 500 mg/l) Minerals (TDS between 500 and 1500 mg/l) Rich in Minerals (TDS than 1500mg / l)

broiled fish, roast beef or processed meat is not too water treating or spa not recommended for daily use

Pairings Vegetables and slightly mineralized nature dishes, desserts

Lightly Sparkling Product minimally mineralized Oligomineral

Minerals

Vegetables meals unsalted bread

Mineral-rich

Pairings Dishes Meats, Pizza Meat Chicken

Red meat fat and salt, pigeon and venison, pecorino or parmesan curative thermal waters are not recommended for daily use without medical supervision Their intake can make noise

Pairings baked cake Carpaccio with rocket or grains of pomegranate, pecorino Toscano Risotto with seafood, baked fish water treating or spa not recommended for daily use

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ETE R F S RYS U Register for free at ife.co.uk D N From big brand suppliers to local & regional producers, over 1,100 exhibitors from

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2013’s largest gathering of international food & drink suppliers will take place at IFE. around the world will showcase thousands of NEW products.

From big brand suppliers to local & regional producers, over 1,100 exhibitors from around the world will showcase thousands of NEW products.

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p. 66

2013

in cooperation with

pizza e pasta italiana

With motodriver, laundry pizzerias, pizza-library or “Km 0” gastroenoshop and a do it yourself kit, but with the high quality of pizza made from masters.

“D” 6Fuori (Draft Maria Letizia Gatti, Stefano Oglietti, Rosario Sorbo, Serena Tibaldi, Giangaspare Mingione, Cristina Zuccarello)

Napping and T

he world of pizza is rapidly evolving and there are already highly prestigious and trendy restaurants, as this journal has shown many times with numerous articles, pointing to aesthetically beautiful restaurants, very functional and capable of atracting even the VIPs. In addition to being smart modern in design, with an eye for the materials used, the colors, the functionality, pizzerias of the future will be multi-purpose, therefore high quality “pizza restaurant”, in both aspects, but also “gastroenoshop”, where one can eat and drink well - there should be a carte of the dishes, one of the pizzas and one for drinks - where you can taste and purchase wines, there’s even a “pizza-library”, which is nothing but a modern and cozy pizzeria next to the shelves of books generally of food and bottles of wine that you can buy. This magazine is also looking to the future and, in collaboration with Poli.design - Milan Consortium of Politecnico has launched a course for architects and designers in “Food Experience Design - Design for the innovation space and pizzeria restaurants” , we wish with our public to open a window to the future, even ahead of its time, by offering ideas, inspiration, projects for those who want to renew their premises or who are planning to open a new place.

“Even in the area of design, the evolution trend on aesthetics and functionality is taking on in all areas of food, in addition to prompting a reconsideration

Entrance Hall

D, stands for “Design” is a Pizza Restaurant Lounge located in Milan between the art neighborhoods (Brera), the fashion disctrict (Montenapoleone), the productivity area (Republic Square) and the culture road (via Palestro) and is aimed at a clientele with a potentially high spending power. Luxury, in bars or traditional restaurants, is usually expressed through standards of excellence in food, drinks and the environment. Pizza actually expresses Italian style, authenticity and simplicity, but here it is proposed in an unlikely duo Pizza & Luxury, combining these values love for motorcycles, lifestyle trend that summarizes luxury, yet affordable, like in the Italian tradition, high specialization and excellence .

The restaurant is aimed at those people who are interested in motorcycles, dynamic people who love the curvy lines, the noise, the philosophy, and those who just

PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA CAMPIONATO MONDIALE Ricetta: DELLA PIZZA

RAVIOLI una sceltaBIANCO di pregiate carni bovine.

Lo scorso anno altre novità: Grecia lancia “Eccellenze Italia”, prodotti realizzati con materia prima dop e igp E NERI per realizzare piatti in linea con le moderne esigenze

di Gianluca Rorato food design

p. 63 p. 67

want to breathe a particular atmosphere.

Luxury comfort, wealth, and personalization of service and pizza at D is a food that knows how to be loved, which translates Italian culinary raggiungere traguardi che il mondo ci the invidia. tradition in a “sample” of the Raccontando, pur succintamente, la offering storia di questa world, by a kaleidoAzienda che abbiamo avutoscope il ofpiacere di visitare high quality ingredients andGreci maximum più volte, conoscendo i signori e icusloro tomization: pizza can be low, ottimi collaboratori, con i high, qualisoft abbiamo rivissuto or crisp, and can novant’anni di storia aziendale, abbiamo be enjoyed forl’impressione lunch, aperitif, dinner aoruscire after dinner. che l’economia italiana si prepari presto dal D offers its customers taxi Tempo diapreparapara la salsa con Per la preparazione tunnel, perché l’intelligenza service produttiva etakes il coraggio which them zione del piatto: filini di agrumi e la dei ravioli, metà al imprenditoriale, saggezza delle persone, or a home delivery ser20 min barbasulla dei home frati. solito modo e metàfondato vice or Nel frattempo si a high quality catering all’impasto è unendo sicuramente vincente. service car parking. A perfanno cuocere i lafor nerosiamo si seppia, ci Eilnoi davvero lieti di avere Grecifollows con questa sonal assistant each ravioli in acqua vogliono 15 minuti nostra Rivista fin dalla sua fondazione, presente table guiding guests through Snapshot bollente, quindi, circa. I ravioli vantheprodotti restaurant, volta cotti, si no farciti un tanti una anche coicon suoi qualificati alpresenting nostro 21°

dell’alta ristorazione.

Basterebbe questa storia, della quale abbiamo scritto Ingredienti: solo i titoli, che gli esperti e gli addetti alla ristorazione Ripieni di albergatori, Nero seppia, – imprenditori, ristoratori, chef,dipizzaioli – farina, albume gamberi, carote, già ben conoscono e apprezzano per capire come l’Italia, d`uovo, gamberi, zucchine, zucchicon aziende come quellacon di Gilberto ecarote, Giorgio Greci, ne, capesante, capesante, sia in questo settore decisamente all’avanguardia. agrumi, barba dei La stima insalata che circondadi questa Aziendafrati, e i suoi illustri panna, latte, agrumi, barba burro, cui lemongrass, titolari, impegnati anche nella società civile hanno scalogno, sale, pepe Campionato saltano salsa. composto a base di dei frati Mondiale dellanella Pizza. dato e continuano ae dare un importante contributo, e olio.

Si compone il piatcode di gamberi. schiumache di l’imprenditoria italiana se Si spadellano le è la dimostrazione to e si ma opera conlemongrass intelligenza, se investe senza sperperare, se capesante e si pre- nda in tavola. sa guardare al futuro col necessario ottimismo può

pizza de luxe.

OVEN RENTAL, ALSO FOR FESTIVALS

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Handmade oven built directly in your shop with refractory bricks and one hob.

Rotating oven built in your shop with refractory bricks and one hob, O 140 and O 150, both gas and wood.

Prefabricated oven built entirely with refractory concrete.

M.B. Ovens replaces the hob of your old oven, with one piece hobs, which allows you to bake 200 pizzas in one hour.

p. 68

2013

pizza e pasta italiana

FOOD DESIGN of the format in the multifunctional sense, and this all is beginning to outline directions of significant innovation. - Explains Nicola R. Ticozzi, Course Director of Experience Design POLI.design - Like other areas of restaurants, bars, clubs, including pizzerias are looking for new solutions, both from the point of view of the proposal to the public that the design of space. We see designers expanding the functions of the space and including lounges, cocktail bars or sales areas, but, as evidenced by the concept of the selected designers who participated in the course. Restaurants have a much broader potential and are commercially navigable. “ “ Pizzerias are linked to a strong tradition, thus undermining the stereotype is very difficult - stresses Gianpietro Sacchi, professor and coordinator of the course - it is for these reasons a sector where the designers have not yet given up and where you can say, and do something innovative. The projects developed during the course are good examples of feasible ideas that could positively stimulate the market, and this is also the result of the contributions in terms of expertise and relationship with the production and market data from Academic Sponsors, a contribution of experience and skills for designers that is really crucial. “ “Even outside of Italy people have now realized that Italian Style in food is much more advanced and more interesting of the traditional ‘pizza and mandolini’, such as the new Italian restaurants in the world - commented Carlo Meo, consumption sociologist - this course goes some way to renew stereotypes, and it is very important but at the same time difficult, because it is a critical process to the success of a club. The restaurants that work are those that start from an idea that can be articulated consistently within the area. Interior design is a part of success, and the food quality, the other fundamental side of the medal.”

So we begin this month to present the projects that we considered very interesting and that can be useful to our readers. This could also be shocking, but we know that the future knows no barriers or prejudices and encourages you to be open to new realities, although it may seem more ideal than realistic, but what today may seem utopia tomorrow’s reality.

Reception Hall and bar area

by Giampiero Rorato

types of pizza and recipes, offering the right combinations with selected Italian wines.

The Vestiaire offers motorcyclist guests, food, housing and a wide range of exclusive and customized products.

Formal or informal, aperitif or dinner, everyone can enjoy pizza according to the likings: on chairs or sofas, tables piece of slate, on low tables or dumbwaiters on mesh placemats, dishes or ... you could even eat itwith your hands.

High quality crancksets allow you to travel around the world of flavors, but it is always fresh and seasonal.

The outdoor area is a space “en plein air” reserved for events.

From the street black and opaque intriguing showcases curious and open onto a colorful world, black, red, white. A red insert on polished white floor takes guests to the aperitif bar or to the table lounge.

The restaurant evokes a noble building with a series of doors that frames literally a path, rich, to the ecstasy of taste.

Bathrooms equipped with all comforts offer the opportunity to refresh yourself in total relaxation and elegance.

From theatrical light to total disappearance, which our prima donna, the dish of pizza, enjoys tempered by familiar glamorous chandeliers.

SHOPFITTING

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TRAVEL – in –

High MAREMMA

– by Fabio Iacozzilli –

p. 71

down

The castle of Manciano

TRAVEL

Mâ&#x20AC;&#x160;

aremma is a land which jealously conceals its treasures, but with a small dose of resourcefulness, it generously opens the eyes of the discerning traveller and gives unique emotions. The valleys enclosed between the rivers Fiora and Albegna, encouraged Etruscan settlements considered among the oldest in Italy, particularly the large areas mostly made of tuff have facilitated the establishment of villages and cemeteries still visited nowadays. Tuff has revealed itself being a ductile material also for fabrication, which allowed the Etruscan craftsmen to shape land, objects and flavours. In order to begin understanding the treasures of the

upper Maremma, you can start with a visit to the hills of the Fiora, namely the three towns of Saturnia, Pitigliano and Sorano, historically linked to the contentions of many medieval families, including the Orsini Family, who left the most visible traces in these places. Going inward from the coasts of Monte Argentario, where the first town you come across Manciano has always been named â&#x20AC;&#x153;the advance guard of Maremmaâ&#x20AC;?. In the past it was a point of observation and defensive strategy and it is still a must to visit the old town and its fortress, from which you can enjoy a view that stretches from the shores of Monte Argentario to the slopes of Monte Amiata. Continuing inward, you can find Pitigliano, with its breathtaking view. Today it is a small town built on a tuff rock

A fascinating journey through a territory rich in Etruscan and medieval treasures, with a simple, authentic and tasty cuisine.

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up

Pitigliano down

A partial view of Terme di Saturnia

and the very place where it is allowed in time to keep separate the newer area from medieval buildings, leaving unchanged the center, which fortunately preserves evident traces of a Jewish neighbourhood with its synagogue, and returns intact the magnificent Orsini palace and a part of the Orsiniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s waterplant. For the more daring visitors a little effort remains to be done, to reach almost by accident in Sorano, also built on a tuff spur. The old village was built around a single fortress,

built and strengthened over the centuries, up to 700 time when the cliff to the north has become the Masso Leopold. Sorano has recently returned to life, thanks to a meticulous restoration of its historic center, now home to artists and artisans.

A region must also allow visitors to taste the dishes and local products, such as the tuscan pecorino of Manciano, ciaffagnone, the lamb bouillon and sfratto of Pitigliano, Soranoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cannellini beans, all dishes served with local wine. Maremma,

travel

with its many historical treasures, urban planning, architecture and food is a place to be visited at a gentle pace, even fully enjoying breathtaking views. For the rest there are many good farms, and we signal that we know an interesting for several reasons: Orsa maggiore (www.ursamaior. it) located in Manciano, where in the familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Fischiottoâ&#x20AC;? home made wines are available with a wide selection of excellent local cheeses and meats and grilled meats. In Pitigliano one

can find the excellent cuisine of Alessandro and Chiara in their restaurant Il Ceccottino (www.ceccottino.com), and finish the journey visitng Ottava Rima in Sorano (www.cantinaottavarima.it) where Nicola and his selection of typical products welcomes guests in his characteristic environment formed in the tuff, possibly serving a glass of absinthe. So good exploration at all! Maremma is a treasure trove that deserves to be discovered and enjoyed!

by Fabio Iacozzilli

p. 73

VALORIANI

world famous

A great artisan known all over the world

A

history made of experience, knowledge and passion. A business passed on five generations. Territory and tradition: these are the characterizing elements of REFRATTARI VALORIANI Srl, whose success rooted at the end of the XIX century in the Florentine area. From the ancient art of the vases maker Pietro Valoriani, to the creation of the first pre-built wood fired oven and even further to the daily innovations of the Valoriani Verace and Fornogrill. An entrepreneurial solidity that links the quality of raw materials, services, design and Made in Italy. The first turning point was the intuition of Silvio, that brought to the creation of two products still in use: the Valoriani vault, a structurally perfect design in all of its proportions; and Vesuvio, an oven addressed to professional users. Nowadays the knowledge, competence and ability to experiment of Massimo and Valeriano have confirmed the success of gas and wood fired oven also at an international level. A fame supported in its quality from international recognized certifications and declarations. In the USA our professional ovens have the ETL Certification Mark, in Great Britain are approved from the CLEAN AIR 2005 No. 2304, in Italy from UNI 10474: in 1995 from IMQ, from the CEE 84/500, from PH laboratory. Moreover our wood fire ovens have been the first, while our gas ovens are the only one, to be approved from the AVPN (ASSOCIAZIONE VERACE PIZZA NAPOLETANA) for the baking of Neapolitan pizza.

VESUVIO Vesuvio Valoriani is the most imitated gas and wood fired oven all over the world, and the most appreciated by professional pizza makers. The original project took life at the beginning of the 70’s, on the basis of a design that even today is followed, perfected by technical innovations. Vesuvio is a performing oven, synonymous and warranty of the highest quality that can be found in the pre-built professional ovens review. The refractory material allows a constant and uniform distribution of the heat for crunchy pizzas baked in a very few minutes.

VALORANI VERACE “Valoriani Verace” is a professional oven that can work also by gas. It is the only one that, even by gas, maintains the very same characteristics of Lower Insulation, Baking Floor Structure and Recycling Heating System, and guarantees the respect of the baking technique of the real Neapolitan pizza, as officially recognized by the AVPN. A stateof-the-art oven, its Recycling Heating System increases its sustainability through the recovery of heat emissions, and their free recycling. Valoriani Verace follows the legislation about heat emissions when working by wood and the rules to obtain the True Neapolitan Pizza mark (AVPN).

FORNOGRILL Fornogrill is a professional product, ready for use, to cook grilled food both from above and below. It works both by coal and gas. Its vault is heated by a small flame placed at the bottom of the oven. Meat, fish, vegetables and cheese are the main characters, and their flavours and consistencies are intensified by a perfect, quick and uniform cooking, optimised by Valoriani’s knowledge, gained in years of ovens’ production. The new born is a very easy to use product, with a single hand gesture the grill can be lifted or lowered. Both of its versions are combined with an extractor fan with 6 different speeds, thus being able to extract also meat smokes, heavier than those produced when baking a pizza.

Many others have tried to copy our ovens, we take that as a compliment, even if VALORIANI’s ovens are and will always be the one and only ORIGINALS. Thank you, MASSIMO VALORIANI

ForniTheValoriani originals

VALORIANI

VALORIANI

• VESUVIO IGLOO/OT SERIES

• VESUVIO GR SERIES

measures expressed in cm

measures expressed in cm

MOD.

Inside dimensions

Outside dimensions

Front Weight Flue Pizza opening kg manifold capacity

100 ø

100x100

140x150

54x28

1000

20

120 ø

120x120

160X170

55x28

1250

140 ø

140x140

180X190

55x28

120X160

120x160

160X210

140X160

140x160

140X180 180 ø

MOD.

Inside dimensions

Outside dimensions

Front Weight Flue Pizza opening kg manifold capacity

4/5

100 ø

100x100

116x130x h58

54x28

500

20

4/5

20

5/6

120 ø

120x120

136x150x h58

55x28

600

20

5/6

1500

20

8/9

140 ø

140x140

156x170x h60

55x28

750

20

8/9

55x28

1500

20

8/9

120X160

120x160

136x190x h58

55x28

750

20

8/9

180X210

55x28

1650

20

11/12

140X160

140x160

156x190x h60

55x28

850

20

11/12

140x180

180X230

55x28

1800

20-25

14/15

140X180

140x180

156x210x h60

55x28

1000

20-25

14/15

180x180

225X245

55x28

2100

20-25

17/19

180 ø

180x180

196x210x h66

55x28

1200

20-25

17/19

• MEAT • FISH • VEGETABLES

• VALORIANI VERACE

• FORNOGRILL

measures expressed in cm

Inside MOD. dimensions 120 ø 140 ø

Outside dimensions

Front opening

Weight kg

120x120

160x170x h190 with stand

45x22 on request 54x22

1250

140x140

180x190x h190 with stand

45x22 on request 54x22

1500

FORNOGRILL VALORIANI cooks the food both from above and below the grill, thanks to the special arching of the vault, thus considerably reducing the baking time.

For further information: www.valoriani.it

Refrattari Valoriani S.r.l.

Via Caselli alla Fornace, 213 • 50066 REGGELLO (FI) tel. 055 86 80 69 • fax 055 86 95 992 valoriani@valoriani.it • www.valoriani.it

VALORIANI

blog.valoriani.it

facebook.com/ValorianiOvens

twitter.com/Valoriani

the Company reserves the right to make changes without notice - pictures text and numbers are indicative

dellanesta.it

The very first professional gas and wood fired ovens with the baking floor made of refractory cotto. They represent the best solution for perfectly baked pizzas.

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2013

pizza e pasta italiana

CERTIFICATE N° IT 11/0050

The Italian School of Pizza…

Italian School of Pizza, operating in Italy since 1988 and internationally recognized as a leader in the training of master pizza makers, it has strived for the quality certification UNI EN ISO 9001:2008, it is an ideal partner to create professional courses designed to train future professionals in the world of pizza. It gives pizza students all the necessary bases for the production of quality pizzas: the courses are held in all major Italian cities and in several locations abroad.

Learning a profession such as that of pizza maker allows, without fear of contradiction, to acquire knowledge in the restaurant world, it gives the opportunity to pursue a career as well as an economically very profitable business to provide an outlet for their lives.

Many of our students also choose to attend the School to make a change in their professional lives, passing to a job that allows to manage one’s life with success.

Given the recent downturn in employment in our country, these courses seem to be particularly suitable for those who have lost their jobs and want a stable and a safe life anywhere.

The Italian pizza makers are required everywhere, and it is increasingly important that they take their job with great professionality, consisting of a solid theoretical basis and practical in dealing with this beautiful craft.

The instructors in our schools are all

professionals who have received the prestigious title of Master Instructor, after following all courses of specialization required; this is a prerequisite for admission to master classes and later on for teaching.

Our instructors are often “testimonial” for major companies and events linked to pizza and solidarity.

Our schools are the ideal partner for those, institutions or individuals, who want to organize courses for pizza makers.

The courses offered by the Italian School Pizza are designed in 40 hours “Full Immersion”, divided into five days of eight hours or 4 hours per day in ten days, from Monday to Friday.

Entries are taken by phone. On the website and magazine www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it and on the magazine Pizza e Pasta Italiana the phone numbers of the national headquarters of Caorle providing guidance for all locations, and mobile phone numbers of the various instructors for a total coverage to Italian interests and esters are visible. for the italian seats: Since 2011, the Italian Pizza School has been certified by SGS - Accredia, has become the reality in the industry to provide its students quality certified service delivery.

The Italian Pizza School has been recognized as eligible for the certification UNI EN ISO 9001 - 2008.

ITALIAN PIZZA SCHOOL Via Sansonessa, 49 30021 Caorle (Venice) Tel.: 0039 (0)421-83.148 Fax.: 0039 (0)421-81007 info@scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it webmaster@pizzanew.it www.pizzaschool.it

Reservations tel. +39 0421 83148

p. 81

Seats abroad: U.S.A. San Francisco New York ———————

CANADA Ottawa ———————

CAORLE (Ve) Main Headquarters

ANCONA Senigallia c/o Tiriboco Grandi Cucine ——————————— AOSTA ——————————— AREZZO c/o M.D.L. Arredamenti ——————————— BARI Bitonto ——————————— BARI Alberobello c/o Matarrese Grandi Impianti ——————————— BELLUNO c/o Ass. Tec Attrezzature ——————————— BENEVENTO ——————————— AVELLINO ——————————— BRESCIA c/o Forni Ceky ———————————

JAPAN Tokyo ———————

FRANCE Lione Lille Chalone sur Saone Paris Chamonix Mont Blanc La Chapelle sur Erdre ———————

LUXEMBURG Steinsel ———————

Seats in Italy: CAGLIARI S. Sperate ——————————— CAMPOBASSO ——————————— CATANZARO ——————————— COMO Turate ——————————— COSENZA ——————————— FIRENZE Reggello c/o Forni Valoriani ——————————— FOGGIA c/o Daunia Alimenti ——————————— GENOVA ——————————— LATINA Terracina/Fondi ——————————— L’AQUILA Roccaraso ———————————

LECCE c/o Mario Pensa Arredamenti ——————————— LECCO Merate ——————————— LIVORNO Cecina ——————————— LUCCA Viareggio ——————————— MASSA CARRARA ——————————— MESSINA Giardini Naxos ——————————— MODENA c/o Forni Pavesi Modena ——————————— NAPOLI ——————————— PARMA Langhirano ———————————

Collaborations: MANTOVA c/o Sanfelici Conserve ———————

Partners:

AUSTRALIA Sidney Melbourne ———————

TUSCANIA Boscolo Etoile Academy ———————

PESCARA c/o Braden Attrezzature ——————————— POTENZA c/o Satriano Arredamenti ——————————— ROMA c/o Terminal Gianicolo 5° livello ——————————— ROMA Ostia ——————————— SALERNO Caselle in Pittari ——————————— TERAMO ——————————— TORINO c/o Ascom Torino ——————————— VERONA c/o Zanolli Forni ——————————— VICENZA ———————————

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WHAT IS ACCREDITATION? It is an attestation or certification by the National Accreditation Body certifying that a conformity assessment body satisfies the criteria established according to harmonised standards.

“It is an attestation or certification by the national accreditation body certifying that a conformity assessment body satisfies the criteria established by harmonised standards and, where appropriate, any other supplementary requirements including those defined in the relevant sector programmes, for conducting specific conformity assessment activities”.

REG. (EC) N° 765/2008 Both on a national and on an international level, consumers require increasing guarantees regarding the quality and safety of goods and services. Producers and suppliers must respect legal requirements in markets of growing competitiveness and complexity.

Through the certification of its management system, product or service, or of its professionalism, with an assessment report of its activity or a laboratory test of the goods it offers, the supplier can demonstrate to the client that it operates in conformity with international standards and other specific requirements related to its field of activity.

Only testing laboratories and accredited certification and inspection bodies are qualified to supply to the market reliable, credible and internationally recognised certifications of conformity. ACCREDIA, applying the most rigorous standards, evaluates their competence, and their behaviour and performance is continuously and carefully monitored.

ACCREDIA is also a signatory to international agreements of mutual recognition.

By means of accreditation, both conformity assessment bodies (laboratories and inspection and certification bodies) and their clients can demonstrate that compliance with standards is a voluntary commitment rather than an unwilling adjustment.

Accreditation certifies the quality of the work of a certification and inspection body or of a testing and calibration laboratory, assessing the conformity of its management system and its competences against internationally recognised requirements and standards, including all legal obligations.

ACCREDIA commits itself, through the implementation of its monitoring systems, to ensure that the behaviour of all its market operators - companies, consultants, bodies, inspectors - fully and transparently respect certain fundamental principles which constitute the basis of certification credibility and marks of conformity in general.

ACCREDITATION IS THUS A GUARANTEE OF • Impartiality: representation of all interested parties within the body or laboratory.

• Independence: assessors and committees releasing the certification or report guaranteetheir absence of conflict of interests with the organisation to be certified.

• Correct behaviour: European standards disallow offers of consultancy either directly or through associated organisations.

• Competence: accreditation certifies primarily that those performing the assessment are culturally, technically and professionally qualified.

Accreditation regards all sectors of production and service which are of daily concern to users because every type of activity can be subjected to evaluation, from construction to energy, from the environment to transport, from health to education and much more.

The service of accreditation is a complex process, going beyond the technical dimensions of competence evaluation by the laboratories and bodies, pursuing objectives of a more general nature: • It promotes the improvement of the offer of certification through the enhancement of regulations, also making use of funds from the standardisation bodies UNI (the Italian national unification body) and CEI (the Italian electrotechnical committee) for matters concerning the connection between laws and voluntary standardisation.

• It studies new accreditation schemes and develops guidelines for the harmonised evaluation of reference standards in order to meet the growing and diverse socio-economic demands of the country.

• It helps to promote the need for quality which, in an increasingly aware population, continues to rise.

• It contributes to the creation of trust in society.

BREAD, PASTA, PIZZA

THE GOOD ITALIAN FLOURS

GMI, the leading Italian milling group, brings you the Frumenta line: a range of top-quality flours for catering professionals and artisan bakers who are well aware of just how important it is to use quality raw materials when creating traditional Italian products. the prime ingredient GRANDI MOLINI ITALIANI SPA Head Office - Italy - 45100 Rovigo - Via Aldo Moro, 6 - Ph. +39 0425 209111 - info@grandimolini.it