Pixelated Palette May 2021 Issue

May 2021 Barbara Bunsey, CDA Honor and Glory

Margaret Riley Frog and Ladybug Plaque

Sharon Cook

Slice of Summer

88-98

50-59

5-14

Sandy McTier

Prickly Pear Cactus

15-24

Deb Mishima

Bugaboos and Flowers, Too

61-67

Susan Cochrane

Nancy Scott, CDA

26-32

68-72

Deb Antonick

Elisabetta de Maria, CDA

Come in and Sit Yourself Down

Canada’s Gnome eh!

Gilded Romance Fantasy Floral

Lorraine Morison Sunflower Tray

100-105

Marika Moretti I Love USA

106-110

I Love America

33-39

74-80

Sharon Bond

Cathy Nestroyl

July Sneak Peek

41-49

82-87

111

Faith, Family, Freedom

Pretty in Pink

Owner/Founder: Chris Haughey Editor in Chief: Lindsey Applegate, palettepixels@gmail.com Copyright Notice: ©2021 Pixelated Palette. The Pixelated Palette is produced 11 times per year by Cupboard Distributing, 1463 S US Highway 68, Urbana, Ohio 43078. All rights reserved on entire contents of this digital magazine. The information contained within this publication is presented in good faith. As the author(s) and publisher have no control over the application of the information presented, the results are not guaranteed. Reproduction of editorial content is strictly prohibited without written permission of the Publisher.

Hello Painting Friends, Another month has flown by and here we are with the May issue of the Pixelated Palette. This month issue is packed with 13 more gorgeous designs!

As a former Air Force kid and the wife of a sailor, supporting the troops is a huge part of my life.

Cover artist Barbara Bunsey honors the troops with Honor and Glory. Barbara honors both her father and Uncle who served in World War II and the Korean War, respectively. What a beautiful way to honor veterans and our troops!

Sharon Bond’s Faith, Family, Freedom is patriotic design with both a touch of realism and a bit of Sharon’s signature whimsy! I love how this majestic eagle is perched on a branch with gorgeous red, white, and blue fireworks in the background!

And for our Canadian friends, Deb Antonick’s Canada Gnome, eh portrays a patriotic gnome from the Great White North. The gnome is joined by his little beaver Mountie friend and the two are ready to enjoy some Canadian activities - watching hockey and eating poutine! This design is sure to put a smile on anyone’s face whether they are Canadian or not!

In closing, I just wanted to remind you, my painting friends, that there is no June issue next month. Never fear! We will be back in July with a fantastic, colossal, super-sized ornament issue featuring 26 different designers! I cannot wait until you see all the fantastic ornament designs in July’s pages!

And, we will have TONS more ornaments this year than last year! Be sure to check out the sneak peek in this month’s issue. I just know that you will love it!

Happy painting! ~Lindsey

HONOR AND GLORY 2021

Original Design by Barbara Bunsey, CDA bbunsey@calicogoose.com

I wanted to honor those who have protected the USA, the land of the free and home of the brave. The army hat belonged to my Dad who served in World War II, the army cap belonged to my Uncle Ted who served in the Korean War, and the Navy hat belongs to someone who served in VietQam. Thankfully, they all returned home safely but, as always on Memorial Day, we honor and give glory to those who perished in the line of duty.

Surface 11” x 14” canvas, available from www.vikingwoodcrafts.com, Michael’s, or Hobby Lobby Special Supplies x DecoArt Spray finisher/sealer x Plastic wrap x Tape Palette: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Antique Gold Deep x Antique Green x Avocado x Avocado Dip x Charcoal Grey x Cinnamon Drop x Cool White x Grey Sky x Light Avocado x Midnite Green

x x x x x x x x x x

Payne's Grey Plantation Pine Rookwood Red Sand Grey Scarlet Slate Grey Summer Squash Titanium White True Ochre Williamsburg Blue

Brushes: FM Dynasty Black Gold x Filbert #8 x Mezzaluna S, M, L, & XL x Oval Wash 3/4” x Round # 2 x Script Liner #0 x Shader #8, #10, & #16 x Wash ¾” Technique The design in the center of the button is an eagle holding arrows, a stem with leaves in its claws, a banner above, a raised circular area surrounded by dots— it will look better if you just give “hints” of those elements rather than try to paint them in.

Background Base outside 2”, plus a bit more toward the center, with Avocado. When dry, wash over area with thinned Antique Gold Deep and stipple with a crumpled piece of plastic wrap. Dry well.

Measure in 2” from the outside edge and tape off. I always paint the base color, in this case Avocado, over the edges of the tape to keep the next color from bleeding under. Base center design area Sand Grey. Dry. Using dry extra-large Mezzaluna, begin scrubbing in Grey Sky on the background. Pick up Slate Grey on the dirty brush and add in darker areas. Deepen the shading as necessary, adding touches of Charcoal Grey to dirty brush until you reach desired intensity. Keep these shadows next to the Navy hat, as the background is the base for the hat. The edges will be cleaned up when the painting is finished.

Note When adding several colors for highlights and shadows, the first color is the widest, with each successive color a little narrower.

Flag White Stripes Background is the base color. Using dry large Mezzaluna, add highlight to left of fold and at top under cap with Cool White; reinforce with a bit of Titanium White.

Using dry large Mezzaluna, load with Sand Grey, remove excess, pick up Grey Sky, remove excess, and begin laying in shadows. Repeat, adding more Grey Sky to dirty brush. Then, repeat again adding Slate Grey to dirty brush. Repeat one last time adding more Slate Grey as needed to create darker shadows. Be sure to add a bit of shadow under the Navy hat, to the left and under the army cap.

Add a thin liner of Slate Grey under the red stripe at right. Add a bit of Charcoal Grey to the dirty brush for stripe at the top and to the right of the Navy hat. It may be easier to add these shadows after those elements are painted.

Red Stripes Base Cinnamon Drop. Using dry medium or large Mezzaluna, pick up Scarlet, remove excess and scrub in highlights. Repeat, adding True Ochre to dirty brush. Repeat again, adding more True Ochre until desired highlights are achieved.

Load dry M or L Mezzaluna with Cinnamon Drop, remove excess, pick up Rookwood Red in dirty brush, remove excess, and scrub in shadow. Repeat, adding more Rookwood Red as necessary.

Line stitching in some areas with a brush-mix of Scarlet + True Ochre (approx. 1:1).

Blue Field Base Williamsburg Blue. Using dry medium or l Mezzaluna, pick up Williamsburg Blue, remove excess, pick up Grey Sky, remove excess, and scrub in highlights. Repeat, adding more Grey Sky as needed.

Using dry medium or large Mezzaluna, pick up Dark Midnight Blue, remove excess and scrub in shadows. Repeat, adding Payne's Grey to the dirty brush.

Add stitches with liner and a brush-mix of Williamsburg Blue + Grey Sky, just enough Grey Sky to make them visible.

Stars Base Sand Grey. Float shadows with a brush-mix of Grey Sky + Slate Grey (approx. 1:2).

Repeat, adding more Slate Grey to brush and apply to darkest areas.

Army Hat Basecoat with one coat of Avocado. Topcoat with one or two coats of Antique Green.

Using dry medium or large Mezzaluna, pick up Antique Gold Deep, remove excess and scrub in highlights. Repeat, adding Avocado Dip to dirty brush; repeat, two more times.

Add shadows by scrubbing in with dry Mezzaluna brush in larger areas and float in other areas with Avocado, Plantation Pine, Midnite Green, adding darker colors to dirty brush.

Strap & Brim Base with a brush-mix of Light Avocado, Avocado, Plantation Pine, and Rookwood Red (approx.

1:1:1:2). Using dry medium Mezzaluna, pick up base mix, remove excess, pick up True Ochre, remove excess, scrub in highlights, and lining at top of strap. Repeat, adding Scarlet to dirty brush. Repeat again, adding Sand Grey and lining only at top of strap and loops.

Shade with a brush-mix of Plantation Pine + Rookwood Red (approx. 3:1). Repeat, adding more Plantation Pine to dirty brush. Repeat, adding Midnite Green to dirty brush. (See photos on next page.)

Center Brass Button Base True Ochre using filbert brush. Load True Ochre on dry #2 round, remove excess, pick up Summer Squash, remove excess, and scrub in highlights. Repeat, adding more Summer Squash to dirty brush. Repeat again, adding more Summer Squash as necessary. Repeat to brighten by adding Cool White to dirty brush.

Using dry small Mezzaluna and floating as necessary, add shadows with Honey Brown. Repeat, adding Rookwood Red to dirty brush. Repeat again, adding Charcoal Grey to darkest areas.

Highlights may need to be punched up at this point.

Note: There is a reflection of the flag at left. Dampen area with water and, using liner, add thinned Sand Grey in these areas. When dry, repeat using thinned Cinnamon Drop in the center of the area. The lines should not be perfect; they need to blend and fade into the area.

Back Button on Band: Base with a brush-mix of True Ochre + Light Avocado (approx. 1:1).

Using dry #2 round, pick up base mix, remove excess, pick up True Ochre, remove excess, and dry brush outside edges, dotting onto design area. Repeat, adding more True Ochre, then Summer Squash two times.

Shade with a brush-mix of Avocado + Rookwood Red (approx. 1:1). (See photos on next page.)

Navy Hat If there is any background shading on the hat, clean it up with Sand Grey.

Using dry large Mezzaluna, pick up Cool White, remove excess and scrub in highlights, mainly across top center and area around insignia. Repeat, adding Titanium White to dirty brush.

Using dry large Mezzaluna, pick up Sand Grey, remove excess, pick up Grey Sky, remove excess, and begin laying in shadows. Repeat, adding more Grey Sky to dirty brush. Repeat again, adding Slate Grey to dirty brush. To create darker shadows, add more Slate Grey as needed. Repeat, adding Charcoal Grey to dirty brush to deepen darker areas. Repeat as necessary. Float a brush-mix of the darkest shading colors to clean up the edges.

Lightly float Williamsburg Blue along the left side. Lightly float Cinnamon Drop, then Rookwood Red at bottom on right and a little over the band.

Black Areas Base Midnite Green. Load #10 shader with Midnight Green, add Charcoal Grey, and blend into brush to add highlights. Repeat, adding more Charcoal Grey. Add Slate Grey to repeat, then, using chisel edge of brush, lay in horizontal areas on the fabric part of the band. Add a bit more Slate Grey to the dirty brush and tap onto areas in the highlight area.

Drybrush or float the colors above on the strap. After adding the Slate Grey for the second time, add Sand Grey to the dirty brush for brighter highlights.

Drybrush these colors, in the order given above on the hat band, adding more Sand Grey to dirty brush in the brightest areas, then a bit of Cool White.

Add stitching lines with a brush-mix of Slate Grey + a touch of Charcoal Grey. Start the stitches in the brightest areas, then let it fade out, without loading your brush again, into darker areas.

Add Sand Grey to dirty brush in highlight areas; repeat, adding a touch of Cool White in brightest areas.

Insignia Anchor and Chain Base anchor and chain with a brush-mix of True Ochre + Charcoal Grey (approx. 2:1).

Using dry #2 round brush, drybrush highlights using base mix + True Ochre. Add more True Ochre to dirty brush to add more highlights. Repeat, adding Summer Squash to dirty brush.

Brighten the highlights by adding Cool White to dirty brush.

These colors may be floated if preferred.

Add dots of color to the chain for base and again for highlights.

USN Base with Slate Grey using liner.

Pick up Grey Sky on dirty brush and add highlights. Reinforce brightest highlights by adding Sand Grey to dirty brush.

Pick up more Slate Grey in brush, take out excess, pick up Charcoal Grey, take out excess, then add shading.

Brass Buttons Base and add highlights and shadows using the same colors as for the center brass button on the army hat but using a flattened #2 round and a fairly dry brush, or your liner.

Army Cap Basecoat with Light Avocado and topcoat with Antique Gold Deep.

Using dry extra-large or large Mezzaluna, pick up Antique Gold Deep, remove excess, pick up Avocado Dip, remove excess, then scrub onto highlight areas.

Repeat, adding more Avocado Dip. Repeat again, adding True Ochre to dirty brush to highlight brightest areas.

Using dry extra-large or large Mezzaluna, pick up Antique Gold Deep, remove excess, pick up Avocado, remove excess, and begin scrubbing shadows on larger areas of hat. Repeat, adding more Avocado to dirty brush. Repeat again, adding Plantation Pine to dirty brush. Repeat a final time, adding a touch of Rookwood Red to dirty brush.

To create shading, float the above colors, in the order given on smaller areas and inside hat.

Repeat, adding more Plantation Pine to dirty brush. Repeat again, adding Midnite Green to dirty brush and adding to darkest areas only.

Add stitching with liner and Avocado Dip. Start the stitches in the brightest areas, then let it fade out, without loading your brush again, into darker areas. Repeat, adding True Ochre to dirty brush, blend, then add to brightest areas, again starting in the brightest area and fading out toward the shadow areas.

Finishing: Clean up any of the colors in the background by floating the shadow colors next to each element, etc. to clean up—next to hats, flag, etc.

VERY LIGHTLY float a little Rookwood Red in upper corners.

Using dagger striper, add a border line of Rookwood Red next to design area.

Remove all tracing lines. Spray with several light coats of DecoArt Finisher/Sealer in a wellventilated area following manufacturer’s instructions.

Encouragement: Please don't be intimidated by this design. Just take it one step at a time!

© Barbara Bunsey. All rights reserved under Pan American and international copyright conventions. The contents of this packet including text, pattern designs and photographs are copyrighted. You may paint from this tutorial for pleasure, for teaching as long a complete pattern packet is purchased for each student and for retail sales at craft shows, craft malls and special orders. You may photocopy one line-drawing only per student for teaching purposes.

Rewriting any or part of the directions included in this pattern packet for teaching or other purposes is strictly prohibited. PLEASE PURCHASE ONE PATTERN PACKET PER STUDENT IF YOU WISH TO PROVIDE THEM WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS. Photocopying or any type of mechanical electronic reproduction of any part of this pattern packet or the designs herein are prohibited, except purchaser may mechanically/electronically enlarge or reduce patterns for their personal use. If this pattern packet is purchased as an e-Pattern or CD, you may not resell the pdf file, nor make copies of the pdf files for re-sale or to give away. The designs cannot be used to create web graphics. The product created from or any derivative product made from the designs in this pattern packet cannot be mass produced in any form without a licensing agreement from Barbara Bunsey.

Line drawing at 100%.

Prickly Pear Cactus Original Design by Sandy McTier sandymctierdesigns@aol.com www.SandyMcTierDesigns.com I am always enamored by the juxtaposition of the sturdy looking cacti and the vibrant beautiful and soft looking flowers. When asked if I would paint a flowering cactus for the magazine, this is the first one that popped into my mind! Love the name and especially love the flowers on this particular cactus.

Surface 10x10 Square Panel – Available on cdwood.com Item 31-L626 DecoArt Media Fluid Acrylics/Americana Acrylic Substitutions x Paynes Grey/Paynes Grey x Quinacridone Magenta/Cranberry Wine DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Aloe x Asphaltum x Bahama Blue x Brilliant Purple x Carousel Pink x Citron Green x Jade Green x Peacock Teal x Plantation Pine x Prussian Blue x Snow Titanium White x Sunny Day Mediums/Varnish x Matte Medium by DecoArt x Soft Touch Varnish by DecoArt Brushes x Angle 3/8” & 1/4" Black Gold Brushes by Dynasty x Encaustic Oval 1” Brush by Dynasty Available on www.sandymctierdesigns.com x Flat 3/4” & #8 Black Gold Brushes by Dynasty x Mezzaluna Small & Medium Brushes by Dynasty Available on www.sandymctierdesigns.com x Rigger #2 Brush by Dynasty Available on www.sandymctierdesigns.com x Small Mop Brush Other Supplies x Baby Wipes x Palette x Paper Towels x Sanding Pad or Emery Board x Transfer Paper x Water Basin x White Tissue Paper

Surface Preparation Scrunch up a piece of white tissue paper and gently spread out.

Generously paint the surface with Matte Medium; lay the tissue paper on the surface and press in place. Paint another layer of Matte Medium over the tissue paper and let completely dry.

Using the sanding block or emery board, swipe down the edge of the surface to remove the excess tissue paper.

Once dry, paint with Titanium White.

Background TIP: Blending the colors with a baby wipe will give your background a variation in colors and the softness we’re going for.

Load a damp 3/4" Flat with Bahama Blue and paint the top third of the surface. Wipe the brush off, load with Peacock Teal and paint the next third. Wipe the brush off, load with Prussian Blue and paint the bottom third of the surface.

Scrunch up a baby wipe, using a soft circular motion and starting at the top of the surface, soften the color right into the Peacock Teal. Move to a clean area on the baby wipe and swirl on the middle section of the surface, right into where it meets Prussian Blue. Move to a clean area on the baby wipe and soften the bottom section of the surface. Let completely dry. Transfer the pattern onto the surface.

Painting Instructions TIP: Let the texture of the tissue paper help you create this project! When dry brushing on the color you will notice highlights show up based on the texture below. Before you wipe away something you think is too bright, hold it back and look at it from a distance – it might just be exactly what you want!

Cactus Load the 3/4" Flat with Jade Green and White, slightly mix on palette and basecoat the cacti – to include the jointed base of the flowers; let dry. Repaint with Plantation Pine and let dry.

Load the #8 with Jade Green and White and basecoat the buds. Load the #8 with White and basecoat the flowers.

Load the 1” Encaustic Oval brush with Aloe and wipe almost all of the paint off on a paper towel.

Dry brush the color on the cactus and offshoots for the buds. Load the brush with Jade Green and repeat. Let the tissue paper create the textures.

Load the Medium Mezzaluna brush with Brilliant Purple and wipe almost all of the paint off on a paper towel. Dry brush the color along the edge of the cactus and here and there as shown in the picture.

Load the Small Mezzaluna brush with Aloe and wipe most of the paint off; dry brush color on the joints for the buds. Load the toe of a 3/8" Angle brush with Plantation Pine and a touch of Paynes Grey and shade down the left side of these sections and along the left side of the cacti.

Load the Rigger (or liner brush) with Asphaltum and a touch of Paynes Grey; mix on palette.

Paint the misshaped dots on the cactus – notice how they go diagonally in a row. The dots on the joints are less of a circle and more of a small oval going up and down.

Rinse the brush, load with a touch of Asphaltum, Sunny Day and White; mix on palette. Paint a small highlight spot on the dots and small dashes on the joints. Let dry and then paint a wash of Asphaltum over them to tone down just a bit.

Load the toe of a damp 3/8" Angle brush with Paynes Grey and float the color underneath the dots.

Load the Small Mezzaluna brush with Jade Green and a touch of White; mix and wipe almost all of the paint off on a paper towel. Dry brush color to brighten up some areas in the center of the cacti. Wipe the brush off, load with Citron Green and repeat. Wipe the brush off, load with Carousel Pink and repeat.

Closed Buds Load the #8 with Jade Green and White; mix on palette and wipe the excess paint off the brush. Slide on the chisel edge to highlight sections. Load the toe of a damp 1/4" Angle brush with Asphaltum and float color to separate the sprouting sections. Let dry. Load a damp Rigger with Quinacridone Magenta or Cranberry Wine and wash the color on the top of each section.

Reload the 1/4" Angle brush with Asphaltum and Paynes Grey; blend on the toe of the brush. Float the color at the base of the sections where it meets the jointed base. Float the color at the base where the joint meets the cactus.

Prickly Pear Flowers Load a damp #8 with Carousel Pink and paint a wash of color on the flowers. Let dry. Load the Rigger with inky White and outline the petals – this will help you with placement.

Load the toe of a damp 3/8" Angle brush with Quinacridone Magenta or Cranberry Wine and float the color at the base of each petal and walk the color up toward the edge of the petal. It should be darker at the base and lighter as you bring the color up. Soften the top section of the petal with a small mop brush.

Reload the Angle brush with a touch of Carousel Pink and White; blend on the toe of the brush. Float the color along the top edge of the petal and soften with the small mop brush where it meets the dark color. Load a damp #8 with Citron Green and paint a wash of color on some of the petals – refer to finished picture.

Load the toe of a damp 3/8" Angle brush with Quinacridone Magenta and Asphaltum; blend on the toe of the brush. Float color at the base of the lower petals and in the center to darken the shading.

Load the Rigger with inky White and loosely outline the petals again.

Center: Load the Rigger with Sunny Day and White and paint the pistil in the center and then randomly paint small dots around it. Make sure to paint some of these on the middle flower as well.

Load the brush with a touch more White and highlight the right side of the pistil. Let dry. Load the toe of a damp 1/4" Angle brush with Asphaltum and float color on the left side of the pistil and little touches of the color under some of the stamens.

Finishing Touches: Evaluate the lights and darks and adjust as needed – more shadows or more highlights.

Load a damp #8 with a touch of Paynes Grey and make an inky consistency. Float shadows on the left sides of the cacti, underneath the left side of the joints, flowers, etc.

Let completely dry and then varnish with DecoArt Soft Touch Varnish.

Sandy McTier Sandy lives in Georgia with her husband of 30 years and is blessed with three incredible sons! Sandy started Sandy McTier Designs in 2011 and loves painting everything from miniatures to mixed media and fine art to whimsical. Sandy travel teaches around the world and absolutely loves sharing her passion for painting and creating with others. She is a published artist, a DecoArt Helping Artist, Dynasty Artisan and ChartPak Ambassador. Sandy is also a Creative Consultant for DecoArt, working closely with Product Development and Education.

You can learn more about Sandy at www.sandymctierdesigns.com; see more of her art on her FB page Sandy McTier Designs; YouTube, Pinterest and Instagram under Sandy McTier

Line drawing at 100%.

Come In and Sit Yourself Down Original Design by Susan V. Cochrane Friends are waiting for you to come in, relax and have a wonderful visit!

Project Supplies x Basic acrylic painting supplies x DecoArt Americana Duraclear Varnish (Matte) x DecoArt Americana Gel Stains (Walnut) Surface Mini Bread Board, Item No. 20-11306, www.vikingwoodcrafts.com -orBread Board Ornament, Item No. RR9817, www.stockade.ca Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Black Forest Green x Black Green x Burnt Sienna x Canyon Orange x Dark Chocolate x Desert Turquoise x Hauser Light Green x Light Buttermilk x Taffy Cream x Neutral Grey x Royal Fuchsia x True Ochre Brushes: Royal & Langnickel, Majestic Brushes x Angular Shader ½” Series R4160 x Liner 5/0, 0 Series R4595 x Shader 2,4,6,8,10 Series R4150 Royal Brushes x Comb ¾” Series RG730 x Deerfoot Stippler ¼” Series 660 General Instructions All base coats are solid. Erase transfer lines as you go. All floating is done with a double loaded brush. Use small amounts of paint. Apply several sheer floats to gradually build up the shading and highlighting.

Yellow Door Transfer the door and the trim. Note: there is trim under the vine. Paint the door True Ochre and the door trim with Neutral Grey. Transfer the window glass and window trim for placement (no grid).

With the comb and Taffy Cream, comb the door and side trim vertically (omit window glass area). Comb Black Green over the previous combing and use the liner to emphasize stronger lines. Divide the door into planks and line the joins with Black Green. Dry brush each plank with Taffy Cream. Apply a light wash here and there (not everywhere) over each plank with True Ochre. Vary the washed areas from plank to plank. Outline the door trim with Black Green.

Apply a float of Dark Chocolate on the trim edge next to the door to tint. Add a light tint of True Ochre on the upper part of the right side trim. Float Black Green on the door next to both sides of the trim.

Paint the window glass with Taffy Cream and the window trim with Neutral Grey. Float Burnt Sienna down the left hand side edge of the glass and repeat several times for good color. Leave the upper right area Taffy Cream. Following instructions above, finish the trim by outlining it and lining it to create grain, cracks, etc. with Black Green and Taffy Cream. There is one horizontal and two vertical pieces of trim. Apply some light lines of Taffy Cream emphasizing the areas immediately below and beside the glass for the reflection. Wash over the reflection areas with True Ochre.

Paint the window grid with Black Green and apply faint, narrow highlight lines using Taffy Cream. Float Black Green on the door next to the window trim.

The handle is Black Green with a highlight of Taffy Cream.

Transfer the boots and paint them with Hauser Light Green.

Outline and divide them with lines of Black Green. Lightly shade Black Green left boot above to the toe, down left side and along sole of right boot.

Dry brush a highlight using True Ochre. Lightly float Black Green on the door next to the boots.

Transfer the bow, the hanging door planter, the rabbit and the stoop planter.

Hanging Door PlanterBasecoat the bow with Light Buttermilk and topcoat with Royal Fuchsia. Float a blend of Royal Fuchsia + Taffy Cream to highlight the bow loops and bottom edge of the tails. Float Black Green inside the bow loops, to create creases, and on the tails next to the loops.

Line the wire with Black Green. Basecoat the planter with Black Forest Green. Highlight along the bottom of the pot with a float Black Forest Green + Hauser Light Green. Finish with a float of plain Hauser Light Green.

Stipple the greenery using Black Forest Green and then Hauser Light Green. Dab the tulips using the tip of the 5/0 liner and Royal Fuchsia. Highlight tulips with a smaller dab of Taffy Cream.

Brick Stoop and Wall (above and below the door)Base coat with Neutral Grey. With a #4 Shader, apply a pale wash of Burnt Sienna to create the individual bricks leaving room above and beside each brick for the mortar. Float a tiny touch of Black Green on one or both vertical edges of each brick. Float a touch of Black Green to shade along the bottom edge of the top row of bricks on the stoop. Float a tiny touch of Black Green on the door next to the stoop.

Bunny and Stoop PlanterPaint the bunny with Neutral Grey. Dry brush Taffy Cream inside ears and top of forehead. Dry brush over this with Royal Fuchsia. Dot the eyes first with Taffy Cream and then a smaller speck of Black Green for the pupils.

Paint the planter with Black Forest Green, highlight the left edge with Hauser Light Green.

Stipple the foliage first with Black Green and then with Hauser Light Green. Dab/dot the blooms using Royal Fuchsia and Taffy Cream.

Grey Door Transfer the door and the trim. Paint the door with Neutral Grey and the door trim with Dark Chocolate. Transfer the window glass and window trim for placement (no grid).

With the comb and Taffy Cream, comb the door and side trim (omit window glass area) vertically. Comb the trim at the top of the door horizontally. Comb Black Green over previous combing and use the liner to emphasize stronger cracks and knots. Divide the door into planks and line the joins with Black Green. Dry brush each plank with Taffy Cream. Add some washes of Dark Chocolate in some areas and vary the washes from plank to plank. Outline the door trim with Black Green. Float Black Green on the door next to the trim.

Paint the window glass with Taffy Cream and the window trim with Dark Chocolate. Float Burnt Sienna along the bottom edge of the glass and repeat several times for good color. Leave the upper area Taffy Cream. Finish the trim by outlining it and lining it to create grain, cracks, etc. using Black Green and Taffy Cream. Note: there are two horizontal and two vertical pieces of trim. Apply some light lines of Taffy Cream emphasizing the areas immediately below and beside the glass for the reflection. Wash over the reflection areas with True Ochre. Paint the window grid with Black Green and apply faint, narrow highlight lines using Light Buttermilk. Float Black Green on the door next to the window trim.

Transfer and paint the handle and brackets using Black Green and highlight it with Light Buttermilk.

Greenery and GhostLightly stipple the greenery above the door window using Black Green first and then Hauser Light Green.

Dab some mini pumpkins using Canyon Orange. Shade one side of each pumpkin with Black Green.

Transfer and paint the ghost with Light Buttermilk. Shade the top edge of each hand and the bottom edge of the face with Black Green. Paint the eyes Back Green with a highlight of Light Buttermilk.

Sign and BirdTransfer and paint the sign with Hauser Light Green. Highlight the top edge with Light Buttermilk and the bottom edge and sides with Black Green.

Transfer and paint the letters and wire with Black Green. Outline the sign as well with Black Green. Paint the bird with Black Green. Highlight it with Light Buttermilk.

Pumpkin and CatTransfer and paint the pumpkin with Canyon Orange and the stem with Black Green. Shade the pumpkin along the bottom and top edges and next to the cat with Black Green. Dry brush some segments with Taffy Green and apply some segment lines using Black Green.

Dry brush the stem with Taffy Cream. Float Black Green on the door next to the pumpkin and stem.

Transfer and paint the cat with Black Green. The eyes are Taffy Cream. Apply the highlights using Light Buttermilk.

Wall above the DoorBasecoat with Neutral Grey. With a #4 Shader, apply a pale wash of Burnt Sienna to create the individual bricks leaving room above and beside each brick for the mortar. Float a tiny touch of Black Green on one or both vertical edges of each brick. Float a touch of Black Green to shade the top and bottom edges of the wall.

Stoop and Upper WallPaint with Dark Chocolate. Divide the stoop, create wood grain and line the top edge with Black Green. Add some faint lines of Taffy Cream in between the darker lines.

Float Black Green to shade the top step next to the edge of the bottom step.

Brown Door Transfer the top, side and bottom edges. Paint the door Dark Chocolate. Transfer the window glass for placement.

With the comb and Taffy Cream, comb the door vertically. Comb Black Green over the previous combing. Divide the door into planks and line the joins with Black Green. Create knots and cracks with Black Green. Float Black Green around all outside edges extending it well into where the greenery will be stippled over it.

Paint the window glass with Taffy Cream. Float Burnt Sienna on the upper right corner and repeat several times for good color. Leave the lower left hand side Taffy Cream. Paint the window grid with Black Green and apply faint, narrow highlight lines using Light Buttermilk.

Transfer and paint the door plate for the knob using Black Green and float Light Buttermilk in a circle for the knob.

FoliageWith Black Forest Green stipple foliage on both vertical side edges, across the top of the door, and around the window. With Hauser Light Green, stipple again on these same areas.

Transfer the bow, the dog, and the presents for placement.

Dip dot the ornaments with Desert Turquoise last to prevent smearing. Float Light Buttermilk to highlight one edge of each bulb.

BowBasecoat with Desert Turquoise. Transfer the loops and knot. Float Light Buttermilk to highlight the knot, creases, some edges, and tips of the tails.

With Black Green float inside the loops, in the creases and on some edges not already highlighted. Float Black Green on the door beside the loops but not the tails.

PresentsBasecoat with Desert Turquoise and Hauser Light Green.

Highlight the outside vertical edges with Light Buttermilk. Shade the other side with Black Green. Paint the bows with lines of Light Buttermilk.

DogTransfer the brim and basecoat the hat with Light Buttermilk as an undercoat. Topcoat hat (not brim) with Royal Fuchsia. Float a blend of Royal Fuchsia + touch of Lamp Black to shade the hat next to the brim.

Paint the brim and pompom with Neutral Grey and float Light Buttermilk along the top edge.

Line the cord attached to the pompom with Black Green.

Basecoat the fur with Neutral Grey. Dab the nose with Black Green and highlight with Light Buttermilk.

Tap a broken very fine line of Black Green on the bottom edge of the brim.

Line the dog’s fur with Light Buttermilk to create the muzzle, chest, and paws. Add a few Light Buttermilk floats on the tip of the paws and chest hairs. Float Black Green on the present next to the body of the dog.

Stoop and WallBasecoat with Neutral Grey. With a #4 Shader, apply a pale wash of Burnt Sienna to create the individual bricks leaving room above and beside each brick for the mortar. Float a tiny touch of Black Green on one or both vertical edges of each brick. Float a touch of Black Green to shade the top edge of the cutout as well as the bottom edge of the top row of bricks on the stoop. Float a tiny touch of Black Green on the door next to the stoop.

Clean up and stain the backs with Gel Stain. Apply 2-3 coats of varnish.

Line drawings at 100%.

Canada’s Gnome eh!

“Oh Canada, our Gnome and Native Land” Original Design by Deb Antonick © 2021 Deb Antonick Designs, Painting with Friends, www.paintingwithdeb.com

Surface x 18" x 5" Board #2973 www.bearwithusinc.com -or- #31-L877 18” x 5” Rectangle, www.cdwood.com Supplies x Stencil – M2-53 Great Canadian Maple Leaf Stencil www.tracymoreau.net Palette: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Burnt Sienna x Light Buttermilk x Mocha x Napa Red x Raw Sienna x Red Alert x Russet x Snow “Titanium” White

x x x x x x x

Marigold Summer Squash Sweet Mint Teal Mint True Red Tuscan Red Warm White

Mediums x DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer x DecoArt Ultra Matte Varnish Brushes: Dynasty Black Gold (206 Series), available from www.thebrushguys.com x Flat Shaders #4, #6, #8, ¾” x Angle Shaders 3/8” or ½” x Wave Filbert Brush #8 206WAVFIL or Flat Wave #10 Flat Wave 206WV x Fandango Brush #2 206FD x Script Liner10/0 or 5/0 206SL x Round #1, #2 206R x Mop Brush 5/8” Decorator Series 400 x Dynasty Stencil Pro Brush½” Preparation Seal the surface with DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer. Let dry and lightly sand.

Basecoat with Sweet Mint. Let dry.

Stencil the background with the Great Canadian Maple Leaf stencil words using Teal Mint.

Transfer on the design.

Shade around the design with Teal Mint.

Painting Instructions Note: All shading is floated at the bottom and/or left sides. All highlights are applied to the top and/or right side. Reference photo for placement.

Gnome Hat Basecoat (undercoat) the hat with Light Buttermilk.

Shade the white stripe(s) with Sweet Mint. Drybrush, then float highlights with Warm White.

Deepen shading with Teal Mint. Drybrush, then float more highlights with Snow Titanium White.

Basecoat the red stripes, and the large red maple leaf, True Red. Shade with Tuscan Red. Float highlights with Red Alert. Deepen shading with Napa Red. Stroke in the pompom with the #2 Round brush, using the same red and white color palette.

Beaver Basecoat with Raw Sienna.

Shade with Burnt Sienna. Highlight with Marigold.

Deepen shading with Russet. Brighten highlights with Summer Squash.

Paint the nose Lamp Black.

Basecoat the teeth and the eyes with Light Buttermilk.

Shade with Sweet Mint. Highlight with Snow “Titanium” White.

Dot the pupils with Lamp Black, then with a tiny dot of Snow “Titanium” White.

Hat – Basecoat the hat with Marigold.

Shade with Raw Sienna. Highlight with Summer Squash.

Deepen shading with Burnt Sienna. Brighten highlight with a brush mix of Summer Squash and Light Buttermilk.

Paint the hatband with Lamp Black.

Eh! Flag – Basecoat with Light Buttermilk.

Shade with Sweet Mint. Drybrush a highlight using Warm White.

Deepen shading with Teal Mint. Highlight with Snow Titanium White.

Line the flagpole and the lettering with Lamp Black.

Beard (See photos) Step 1 – Basecoat the beard with Russet using the Wave Brush. I like the wispy ends this brush creates and it helps you to create a beard like pattern for the hairs.

Note: When using the Wave brush and the Fandango brush, water the paint down as you would for the liner brush.

Step 2 – Paint the first beard layer with Burnt Sienna. Shade under the nose and mustache with Russet.

Step 3 – Paint another layer with Raw Sienna.

Finish the beard layers using the #2 Fandango brush in the following colors: Step 4 – Brush mix of Raw Sienna and Light Buttermilk.

Step 5 – Light Buttermilk Step 6 – Warm White Step 7 – Snow “Titanium” White.

Nose and Arms Paint the nose and arms with Mocha. Shade with Raw Sienna. Float the highlight on the top with Light Buttermilk. Deepen shading with Burnt Sienna. Line a highlight with Snow “Titanium” White.

Mittens, Hockey Stick, Maple Syrup and Poutine Mittens – Basecoat with True Red. Shade with Tuscan Red. Float highlights with Red Alert. Deepen shading with Napa Red. Line the mitten cuffs with Warm White.

Stencil the Maple leaf with Light Buttermilk. Shade with Sweet Mint. Highlight with Warm White.

Hockey Stick – Basecoat with Raw Sienna. Shade with Burnt Sienna. Highlight with Marigold. Deepen shading with Russet.

Basecoat the white stripes with Light Buttermilk. Shade with Sweet Mint. Highlight with Warm White. Deepen shading with Teal Mint. Brighten highlights with Snow “Titanium” White.

Stencil the red maple leaf with True Red. Shade with Tuscan Red. Float highlights with Red Alert. Deepen shading with Napa Red. Paint the puck with Lamp Black. Highlight with Sweet Mint. Line highlight with Warm White.

Maple Syrup – Basecoat the bottle with Raw Sienna. Shade with Burnt Sienna. Highlight with Marigold.

Deepen shading with Russet. Brighten highlights with Summer Squash.

Basecoat the label with Marigold. Shade with Raw Sienna. Highlight with Summer Squash.

Deepen shading with Burnt Sienna. Brighten the highlights with a brush mix of Summer Squash and Light Buttermilk. Line the label with True Red. Line the lettering with Lamp Black.

Paint the bottle top with Lamp Black. Line a highlight with Warm White.

Poutine – Basecoat the poutine container with Sweet Mint. Shade with Teal Mint. Highlight with Warm White. Line the stitching and lettering with Lamp Black.

Use the #1 or #2 Round brush to line the fries with Raw Sienna. Line the fries again with the Round brush loaded with Raw Sienna and edge of tip loaded in Marigold.

Repeat all the fries by adjusting the colors with more Marigold or More Raw Sienna so the fries vary in color.

Paint in the gravy with Burnt Sienna tipped in Russet.

Tap in the curds with Light Buttermilk.

Finish the Beard: Finish by stroking in hairs with the liner brush and Snow “Titanium” White, pulling from the tips of the beard inward. Be sure to use some of these strokes to set the arms back to under the hairs.

FINISHING: Outline as desired with Lamp Black.

Varnish with Ultra-Matte Varnish.

Line drawings at 100%.

Copyright Deb Anto onick De esigns, Painting with Deb www.paintingwittKdeb.com

Copyrightt Deb Antonick Designs, Painting with Deb www.paintingwitKdeb.com

Faith, Family, Freedom Original Design by Sharon Bond “This is something a little different for me! I love my whimsical designs but always seem to have a harder time designing something patriotic in my usual whimsy style! Even though it’s not exactly ‘realistic’, I think it is a nice combo of the two! Had a lot of fun playing with the background and stenciling the fireworks! Hope you will have fun too!!”

Copyright © 2021 Painted by Me, Sharon B - Photocopying or mechanical reproduction is strictly prohibited. May be painted for fun or profit, but no mass production.

Surface: භ Slender Santa Fe Plaque – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 31-L804

Project Supplies: භ Ultra-fine Permanent Black Marker – (Such as an Ultra-fine Sharpie, available at most stores!)

----OR-----භ Black PITT Artist Pen, Superfine and/or an Extra Superfine by Faber-Castell (for even finer lines.) (I would suggest two sizes for this project; such as an Ultra-fine Sharpie and also a finer lined marker.) භ Fireworks Background Stencil – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 09-19333 භ Painter’s Tape or Scotch Magic Tape භ Ordinary Ruler (optional) භ Small Water Mister Bottle

All Paints are Americana Acrylics from DecoArt: භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ

Alizarin Crimson Cadmium Yellow Dark Chocolate Espresso Honey Brown Lamp Black Marigold Midnite Blue Milk Chocolate

භ භ භ භ භ භ භ භ

Napa Red Sable Brown Sand Soft Black Tomato Red Traditional Burnt Umber True Blue Warm White

Specialty Items by DecoArt: භ Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher භ Americana DuraClear Gloss Varnish (optional) භ DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Ice Crystal (optional)

Brushes: භ භ භ භ භ

Angle Shader ¼” Glaze/Wash Brush ¾” Flat Shader #6 Round # 2 Script Liner 10/0

Other Brushes from Cupboard Distributing: භ #4 Oval Drybrush – Jo Sonja’s Sure Touch – Item # 03-2010-4 භ #6 Oval Drybrush – Jo Sonja’s Sure Touch – Item # 03-2010-6 භ Chris’s SPECTACULAR Stencil Brush #4 – Item # 03-926-4

Tip: Anytime during the instructions if I mention to “finely outline” something in Black you can choose whether you want to thin your Black paint and use a liner brush to outline or simply use a Black marker! Also keep in mind when I mention basecoating something with ‘two coats’ of one particular color, it’s always best to let the first coat dry before adding the second coat! This helps tremendously with your coverage!

Preparation: Start by basecoating the entire plaque with two coats of Sand. This will serve as the undercoat.

Let this dry.

Once this has completely dried, we will start our ‘multicolored’ background! You will need to have the following paints and supplies handy: *Warm White * Tomato Red * Napa Red * True Blue * Midnite Blue * Lamp Black * Large Wash Brush * A Small Bottle for misting water. Also keep in mind, this could be a little messy, so be sure to have your painting area protected (and paper towels handy too!)

We will be working by painting across the plaque (starting at the bottom and working towards the top) with long, flowing, sweeping motions. We will move from one color to the next as some will blend a bit and some will streak… this is what we want for variation of a night-time sky approaching. You can always decide to add more of one color than another for more variation or brightness. No two will look exactly alike.

The key to this effect is to keep your surface (and/or) your brush damp. You need for your paint to flow smoothly across the surface. If your paint starts to ‘drag’ or ‘pull’, you need to add more water to either your brush or you can mist your surface lightly with water.

If you wish, you can lightly trace the outline of the ground before we start to use it as a guideline as to where to begin. No worries about getting any of these paints in the ground area, as this area will be painted solidly in Black later.

Mist your plaque lightly with water to begin.

Start along the top of the ground area sweeping with Warm White. Then (working up) go to Tomato Red, next is Napa Red, next is True Blue, and then Midnite Blue. Lamp Black will be blended at the very top of the plaque!

The more you sweep across the plaque, the more the color will blend. You could even create “stripes” with the color if you wished.

If you surface gets too wet, it may start to streak down to the original basecoat (Sand). If this happens, simply wait a few seconds and add more paint to the area *OR* just leave the streaks as highlights. I did this in a few of the sections.

Just play with it until you get the colors you like. Once you are happy with the background, let it dry completely.

Painting Instructions: GROUND Retrace the ground area on your plaque. Basecoat this entire area solidly in Lamp Black. You can add the little pine trees with your liner and Lamp Black paint if you wish or just use your Black marker (Yes, I used my markers). ঒ খ This will be the background silhouette (where our little ক ঔ ও town would be!)

LIMB Trace on the main outline of the limb. (You can also go ahead and trace your eagle outline as well as the words too, if you wish. This helps with placement when we go on to stencil our fireworks in the next step.)

Basecoat the limb with two coats of Espresso and let dry.

Once dry, drybrush with Sable Brown. Highlight here and there with a bit of Honey Brown. (If this looks too bold, simply tone it down by adding a bit of Espresso back into your brush and drybrushing over it again.)

Finely outline the limb and add the finer details with Black.

Shade the underside of the limb and around the eagle (where it meets the limb) with Traditional Burnt Umber.

STENCILING THE FIREWORKS You can choose your placement and what fireworks you would like to stencil on this project. I stenciled mine randomly and mostly around the top of the plaque. You can refer to the photo to see the ones that I chose.

As we get ready to start stenciling, have the following colors handy: *Warm White * Tomato Red * True Blue and *Alizarin Crimson. If you wish, you can have more than one stencil brush handy to save time from cleaning your brush between colors.

All of the ‘twinkling pointy firework stars’ are done in just Warm White.

The rest of the fireworks are done with the colors mentioned above. You can choose any color combination you like (or pick your own colors.)

EAGLE I wanted to finely outline my eagle in Black first, before I started painting him. I’m just doing the basic outline (no real details just yet). We will also be working on him in sections.

The first sections will be the larger part of both of his wings and the small chest section on his front. Basecoat these with two coats of Dark Chocolate and let dry. We aren’t going to outline or paint each feather individually as we will paint this entire section first.

We are now going to ‘stipple’ or ‘pounce’ our Dark Chocolate sections with Milk Chocolate. I usually use an old drybrush for this, as it can be a bit harsh on the bristles. Also keep in mind, to wipe off (as if you were preparing it for drybrushing, just not as dry!) some of the excess paint on your brush before stippling. Once you are finished with the Milk Chocolate, add just a bit of Honey Brown to the same brush and stipple/pounce this on as a highlight, particularly on the tops of his shoulders.

Let your stippling dry completely, then trace on your feather outlines. Once you’ve done this, you can then finely outline them all in Black.

Complete these feather sections by highlighting the bottom edge of each feather with a wet stroke of thinned Honey Brown. Dab back with a soft cloth or tissue, while still damp, if it appears too bold.

Once this is complete, re-outline any feathers in Black (if needed). Also add a very fine line of Black down the center of each feather. (I used markers for all outlining).

Next, we will work on the tail feathers. Basecoat these in Sand. When dry, heavily drybrush with Warm White. Once this has dried, shade under the wing’s feathers as well as the bottom tips of the tail feathers with Honey Brown.

Basecoat the section between the wings as well as the longer wing feathers with two coats of Traditional Burnt Umber. Let dry.

Drybrush these sections with Dark Chocolate.

With a bit of thinned Espresso, highlight the tips of the longer feathers by wet brushing. Dab back if needed with a soft cloth or tissue.

Shade underneath the eagle’s head feathers with Soft Black. Also shade between the wings and under each of the longer wing feather sections with Soft Black as well.

Basecoat his entire head with Sand.

Once dry, drybrush this heavily with Warm White.

(You could even wet-brush it on as well). Once this has completely dried, trace on your facial details.

For his beak, basecoat in Sand and let it dry.

Topcoat his beak and basecoat his foot with Marigold.

You will likely need two coats.

When dry, trace on the details for the beak.

Drybrush the beak and the foot with Cadmium Yellow. Add a bit of Warm White (to the same brush) and highlight the top of the beak as well as the section closest to his face.

Finely outline the eye in Black. Basecoat the eye with two coats of Marigold.

Mix just a touch of Tomato Red with Cadmium Yellow to shade the underside of his beak, around the top of his leg, and along the bottom part of his eye. Once this has dried, add a Black pupil to his eye as well as Warm White eye accents.

Finely outline all facial features in Black, including the mouth line and nostril on the beak.

I added a few ‘creases’ or ‘feathers’ to the eagle’s head. I very finely outlined these in Black, then shaded lightly with Honey Brown. I also used Honey Brown to shade around the eye and behind his beak.

Paint his toenails in Black and finely outline the entire eagle in Black, if you have not already done so!

LETTERING Finely outline all words in Black and then fill them in with Black as well.

Finishing Touches Once everything has dried, we will be ready to seal our project! I simply spray sealed mine with Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher per instructions and let dry.

Once our plaque has dried, I used Americana DuraClear Gloss Varnish to add a little extra shine to the eagle’s eye and beak.

For a fun firework sparkle, I added DecoArt Glamour Dust Ice Crystal Glitter Paint to all of the colored fireworks!! No need to be real precise, just a little stroke down the center with your liner brush is all you need for a fun sparkly look!! For those ‘twinkling star fireworks’, (the ones done in Warm White), I just added a dip dot of the Ice Crystal in the very center! I just love the effect when the light hits it!!

I hope you enjoyed painting this plaque as much as I did!

Thank You!ᆌ Sharon B

/LQH GUDZLQJ DW

Frog and Ladybug Welcome Plaque Original Design by Margaret Riley Ladybugs are friends to all and can put a smile on a face. Along comes this frog and makes friends with these friendly ladybugs. Dragonflies bring you luck! This shows how nature gets along with creatures meeting creatures. Guests appearing at your door are bound to smile viewing these creatures bond together as friends to welcome your guests into the circle of friends.

Surface x Scalloped Oval Plaque (CD Wood #31-L369), www.cdwood.com Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Avocado x Black Plum x Blue Haven x Cadmium Yellow x Citron Green x Cool White x Evergreen x Graphite x Hauser Medium Green

x x x x x x x x x

Irish Moss Jack O’ Lantern Orange Lamp Black Napa Red Royal Navy Sand Grey Sapphire Tomato Red Yellow Ochre

Mediums x Americana Neons-Fiery Red x Americana Varnish-Duraclear matte, satin, or gloss Brushes: Royal & Langnickel x Angular SG160 1/4", 1/2" x Short Liner SG595 20/0 x Round SG250. 2 and 4 x Moderna Series 77 All Media Dome Round 1/4" and 1/2" Other Supplies x Baby Wipes x Fine Grit Sandpaper x Foam Brush 1” for applying varnish x Palette Paper x Paper Towels x Pencil x Red Ink Pen x Stylus x Tracing Paper x Transparent Tape x Water Basin x White Barrel Eraser x White Transfer Paper Instructions Note: Use brush size to accommodate areas to be painted unless instructed differently. If you are hanging the plaque, drill holes large enough to add chain or wire for hanging before painting. It may also be displayed on a small easel.

Preparation Using pencil, trace pattern onto tracing paper.

Basecoat surface Lamp Black. Sand lightly and wipe off dust. Add a second coat of Lamp Black.

Using a baby wipe, dip into Graphite paint and swirl inward 3” from the outer edge. This will soften the Lamp Black from being so stark when the bright colors are applied. Allow to dry.

Tape pattern to top of plaque. Slide white transfer paper under tracing paper and trace design using red ink pen. By using the red ink pen, double tracing a line(s) can be avoided. Remove transfer paper and pattern.

Basecoat frogs, dragonfly bodies, and bow tie with Cool White. Don’t worry about details as those can be placed back on before painting each area.

Basecoat ladybugs, frog hands, frog “toes”, mouths, and frog eyes in Yellow Ochre.

Paint “Welcome” and eyeglasses Sapphire.

Retrace all design lines where needed.

With the layering of each color, be sure each layer is completely dry before applying another color.

Shading and highlighting are done by floating, unless specified differently.

Ladybugs Float Sand Grey on the lower area of each head.

Paint the entire body Tomato Red, dots and stripes will be added later.

Highlight the front of the body shell in Jack O’ Lantern Orange.

Trace on stripes, eyes, and dots.

Use stylus to make a Sand Grey eye.

Paint stripe Lamp Black. On each side of each stripe, float a Cadmium Yellow highlight.

Use the end of the brush handle to dot on Lamp Black dots.

Using liner brush, add Sand Grey antennas.

Float Napa Red along the bottom and around any frog toes overlapping onto the ladybug shells.

Make sure all paint and dots are dry, dip the smallest dome round brush into Cool White.

Remove most of the paint on a paper towel. “Tickle” a hint of Cool White for a reflection on the body shell.

Repeat for each ladybug plus ladybug on “Welcome” and on frog glasses. The ladybug on the glasses does not have to be very detailed since it is so small.

Add a Fiery Red float over the previously applied Jack O’ Lantern Orange to intensify the highlighting on the front of each ladybug shell. (Refer to photo.)

Frogs Bodies: Basecoat all frog bodies Irish Moss. There will be many layers of color on each frog.

Paint half diamond shapes Hauser Medium Green. Using dome brush, dip into Hauser Medium Green. Remove most of the paint on a paper towel. Swirl on color, not being neat, precise, nor applying too much paint. Add shading under the chin (it’s a small line) and around the bow tie.

Add shading around the mouth, on each side of orange eye areas, under arms, and along ladybugs “touching” frogs.

Load dirty dome brush with Citron Green to add highlights on top of head, near eye “bulge”, under mouth, chin area, and on top of arms. Refer to the photo to view shaded and highlighted areas with each layer.

Add nostrils in Hauser Medium Green. Float Avocado under chin and mouth, along top of mouth, along each eye, under arms, around bowtie, along left side, and along bottom of ladybugs against frogs.

Using Cadmium Yellow, float on top of each head, on the right sides of arms and bodies, and below mouth (a small line). Use Evergreen to intensify some shaded areas: along frog’s left side of mouth and body, under bottom of glasses, along inner edge of frogs left eyeglass frame, under mouth, under chin, and along hand by ladybugs.

To intensify highlighting, float Cool White on top of each head, along the outer edge of the larger frog’s right arm, along two small frogs’ right sides.

Mouth: Paint mouth Cadmium Yellow. Float shading on lower edge of mouth in Yellow Ochre, deepen with Jack O’ Lantern Orange. Add Cool White highlights along the top of the mouth. Line a Hauser Medium Green smile.

Eyes: Paint each eye Jack O’Lantern Orange. Float Cadmium Yellow on the frog’s right side of each.

Float Tomato Red on the left side. When dry, float Fiery Red over the Tomato Red. Brighten yellow area with a float of Cool White. Add a Cool White reflection line by doing tiny, choppy lines in a slight curve. Using Lamp Black, add a curved pupil slit (refer to photo) to each eye and along the inner edge of each eye. Along the outer black line, add a Cadmium Yellow line.

Hands and Toes: Paint each hand Jack O’ Lantern Orange. Shade Napa Red along the left side of hand and between toes. When dry, intensify Napa Red with Fiery Red. Highlight the opposite side with a float of Cadmium Yellow. When dry, brighten with a float of Cool White.

Basecoat each toe Tomato Red. Shade the right side of toes with Napa Red. Highlight left sides with Cadmium Yellow and brighten with Fiery Red. Bow Tie: Paint the entire bow tie Tomato Red. Using Napa Red, float under the chin, around the knot, along the bottom edge, and on the frog's right side. (Refer to photo).

Using Cadmium Yellow, float highlights on the left side of the knot and bow tie loop. Intensify highlights with a float of Fiery Red.

Using Black Plum, shade under chin and around bow tie…only on the bow tie. Add some Black Plum and Cadmium Yellow gather lines at the knot.

Dragonflies Wings: (paint one at a time) To create a transparent effect, paint the tip of the wing section Cool White. Quickly, wipe paint off brush, dip into water, blot lightly, and pull white paint from tip to body. If it isn’t transparent, wipe off brush and keep pulling off paint. Repeat for each wing.

Orange Body: Basecoat Jack O’ Lantern Orange.

Shade/float on upper edge Napa Red and highlight/float Cadmium Yellow on lower edge. Add Napa Red lines on the body as shown on pattern. Using stylus, add Citron Green dots for each eye.

Paint a Citron Green half diamond at the tip of each wing. Using liner brush, add Citron Green lines on each wing as shown on pattern.

Green Body: Basecoat Citron Green. Shade/float on right side with Hauser Medium Green and highlight/float Cadmium Yellow on left side. Using liner brush, add body lines in Hauser Medium Green. Using stylus, add Citron Green dots for each eye.

Paint a Sapphire half diamond at the tip of each wing. Using a liner brush, add Sapphire lines on each wing as shown on pattern.

Blue Body: Basecoat Sapphire. Shade/float on the right side with Royal Navy and highlight/float Blue Haven on the left side. Using a liner brush, add body lines in Royal Navy. Using stylus, add Citron Green dots for each eye.

Paint a Jack O’ Lantern Orange half diamond at the tip of each wing. Using a liner brush, add Jack O’ Lantern Orange lines on each wing as shown on pattern.

Welcome On the left side of all letters (refer to photo), highlight with Blue Haven. On bottom and right side of each letter plus under the ladybug, shade with Royal Navy.

Eyeglasses The light is coming from the left side. This means all highlighting is added along the left side of the glasses, both the inside of the frame and outer edge. Refer to the photo, if needed. On the highlight sides, float on Blue Haven. On the opposite sides, shade with Royal Navy.

With the dome brush, scrub some Cool White in the center of the nose piece and at the top and bottom in the center of the glasses frame (refer to photo).

Don’t forget the ear pieces: shade and highlight with the same colors as above (highlight on top, shading on bottom).

FINISHING Float Lamp Black around creatures to clean up any overpainting on the background.

Add Cool White movement lines to dragonflies and frog waving hand. Add some Cool White reflection lines to the glass lens.

Use white barrel eraser to erase any visible transfer lines.

Following manufacturer’s instructions, varnish with a matte or gloss finish.

Line drawings at 100%.

Bugaboos and Flowers, Too Original Design by Deb Mishima 7KHVH OLWWOH EXJDERRV DUH VR H[FLWHG VSULQJ LV KHUH :RXOGQ W WKH\ ORRN DEVROXWHO\ DGRUDEOH LQ D IORZHUSRW"

Surface 5” X 6” Wood Plaque available from Cupboard Distributing, item # 31-L875 www.cdwood.com Paints: DecoArt Americana AcrylicsAntique Gold x Asphaltum x x Bleached Sand x x Burnt Sienna x x Coral x x Heritage Brick x x Lamp Black x

Light Buttermilk Moon Yellow Raw Sienna Snow White True Ochre Warm White

Mediums: DecoArt x Chalky Finish, Vintage (Substitute a mix of 2:1 Warm White/Thicket) x Galaxy Glitter, Black Gold x Galaxy Glitter, Gold Shooting Star x All Purpose Sealer Additional Supplies x Optional: Stamp, Sheet Music available at Michaels (or stamp/stencil of your choice) x Saran Wax Transfer Paper, White x 3 Wood Clothes Pegs x Assortment of Buttons 3 large, 3 small (Color Scheme Match) x Glue Gun x Ball Stylus x Sponge Wedge x Q Tips x Optional: 3/4” bee buttons Available at Fabricland or where buttons are sold Brushes x Jo Sonja Sure Touch Angle 3/8”, 1/2” #1345 x Jo Sonja Sure Touch Oval Wash 1/2”, 3/8” ¼” #1318 x Jo Sonja Sure Touch Flat #8, #9 #1370 x Jo Sonja Select Round #4, #5 #4010 x Jo Sonja Sure Touch Oval Dry brush #9, #10 #2010 x Jo Sonja Sure Touch White Mop ½” ¾” #1317 x Jo Sonja Sure Touch Script Liner 18/0 #1365 x Heinz Jordan Domed Dry Stipple 1/8”, 3/8”, ½”, ¾” x Foam Brush to apply Background Paint x ½” Rake Brush x 2” White Short Bristle Flat Surface Preparation: Do Not Sand MDF Based on the surface you’re using, if necessary, sand surface until smooth. Apply Multi-Purpose Sealer and lightly sand again to knock down any raised grain.

Painting Instructions Background Basecoat the surface with Chalky Finish, Vintage. Lightly dry brush thebackground with Warm White using the 2” short, bristled brush.

Apply Bleached Sand to the cling stamp using the sponge wedge. Randomly press stamp to cover the background. Line the stitching around the edge of the surface with Lamp Black.

Transfer the patterns.

Honey Bee Bee: Basecoat the head and body with Light Buttermilk.

Basecoat the eyes, nose, arms, stripes, and feet with Lamp Black. Trace on the details. Shade Moon Yellow around the head, eyes (avoid under the eyes, under the nose, under the chin, down both sides of the body and on either side ofthe stripes.

Highlight Warm White under the eyes, above the nose, along the chin line and along the bottomof the body.

Deepen the shading with True Ochre. Dry brush Warm White between the eyes and between the stripes on the body using a HJ domed stipple brush. Very lightly and sparinglyfloat a little Raw Sienna where the shading is.

Dry brush the cheeks and add a little on the sides of the body with Coral. Very lightly, randomlydry brush Warm White on the nose, arms, stripes and feet. Line and dot the eyes and line the nose and feet with Snow White. Line the hair, antennas, eye lashes and the stitching on the bodywith Lamp Black. Dot the body with Lamp Black.

Float the wings with Snow White. Dot around the wings with Snow White.

Honey Pot: Basecoat with Bleached Sand. Shade Moon Yellow under the body, above the top lip, below the lip and down both sides. Highlight Warm White along the top and bottom of the lip. Deepen theshading with True Ochre. Deepen again with Raw Sienna. Dry brush Warm White in the middle of the honey pot. Float shade Burnt Sienna over the shaded areas.

Basecoat the honey drips with Antique White. Highlight Light Buttermilk along the outside edges and where they touch the honey pot. Brighten the highlight with a little Snow White.

Finishing Touches: Dot the daisy centers on the background with True Ochre. Dot the little petals with Snow White.

Using a Q-tip dab Galaxy Glitter Black Hole onto the black stripes and down the left side of the honey pot. Glue the little bee button onto the honey pot.

Antsy Plants Ant: Basecoat the ant with Moon Yellow. Basecoat the eye and nose with Lamp Black. Trace on thedetails. Shade True Ochre around the eye (not under), around the head from just above the noseto the neck, under the head, between the body sections and along the bottom of the body.

Highlight Light Buttermilk along the top of the head, under the eye and along the top of the body. Deepen the shading lightly with Raw Sienna. Add a light float of Burnt Sienna over theshaded areas of the body.

Line the stripes and dot the body with Lamp Black. Line the antennas, hair, eyelashes, eyebrow,and legs with Lamp Black. Line and dot the eye with Snow White. Dry brush the cheek and here and there in the shaded areas of the body with Coral (reference photo). Line between the body sections with Warm White.

Flower: Basecoat the center with Coral. Highlight a little on the right side with Moon Yellow. Float the petals with Snow White using the #8 round. Line the petals with Snow White. Go back to the center of the flower and shade around the center and above the petals with Heritage Brick.

Stipple Moon Yellow on the right side with Moon Yellow using a HJ domed stipple brush. Dot the left side, along the bottom and just a little on the top of the petals with Lamp Black.

Finishing Touches: Dot the daisy centers in the background with a mix of 1:1 Coral and Heritage Brick. Dot the petals with Snow White.

Using a Q-tip dab on Galaxy Glitter, Black Gold on the left side of the flower center, along the bottom edge and a little on the top of the petals.

Glue the little bee button onto the flower.

Sunflower Glitters Pot: Basecoat with Coral. Shade Heritage Brick along the top of the brim, under the brim and down both sides. Highlight Moon Yellow along the bottom of the brim. Stipple a little Moon Yellow, using a HJ domed stipple brush, along the brim and in the middle of the pot. Shade again with Heritage Brick.

Sunflower: Basecoat the center with Raw Sienna. Shade Burnt Sienna along the bottom and between the petals. Deepen the shading with Asphaltum. Darken again with Lamp Black.

Basecoat the petals with Light Buttermilk.

Shade Moon Yellow, walking the color up, along the base of the petals, between the petals, and up the inner edge. Highlight Warm White along the edge of the outer petals where they touch the inner petals. Deepen the shading with True Ochre again walking the color up and in. Float shade a little Raw Sienna here and there over the shadedareas.

Float shade again softly with Burnt Sienna.

Line the highlighted side of the petals and the veins coming up from the base with Snow White.

Dot the center and the base of the petals with Lamp Black and again with Snow White.

Bee: Basecoat with Light Buttermilk. Basecoat the eye and nose with Lamp Black. Shade around thebody and between the head and body with Moon Yellow. Highlight Warm White around the head (except where it touches the body) and where the body touches the head. Deepen the shading with True Ochre and again with Raw Sienna.

Dry brush in the middle of the body with Warm White.

Line the antennas, eyelashes, stripes, stinger, and bow with Lamp Black. Dot the eye with SnowWhite. Shade on either side of the stripes with True Ochre. Dot the body with Lamp Black.

Dry brush the cheeks with Coral. Float the wings with Snow White. Dot around the wings withSnow White.

Finishing Touches: Dot the daisy centers in the background with a 1:1 mix of Coral and Heritage Brick. Dot thepetals with Snow White.

Using a Q-tip dab Galaxy Glitter Black Hole onto the left side on the center of the sunflower, alittle onto the base of the petals and down the left and right side of the flower pot.

Clothes Pegs Basecoat one with Moon Yellow, one with Chalky Finish Vintage and one with a 1:1 mix of Coral and Heritage Brick. Glue the buttons onto the bottom of the clothes pegs and glue theclothes pegs onto the back center of the surfaces.

Line drawings at 100%.

GILDED ROMANCE FANTASY FLORAL Original design by Nancy Scott, CDA I love painting on the metal trays from Dollar Tree! This design could also work well on a memory box or can be adapted to a round wood plate from your stash. If using a different surface, try to find a place to add the “gilding” as it really makes the project special!

Surface Oval Embossed Metal Tray - available from the Dollar Tree. The painted area, with the design on it, is about 10” x 6.5”.

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Black Plum x Buttermilk x Deep Burgundy x Fawn x Hauser Light Green x Hauser Med Green x Hauser Dark Green x Ocean Blue x Rookwood Red x Warm White x Dazzling Metallics - Venetian Gold Brushes: Royal Langnickel Aqualon series x Angle R2160 - sizes 1/8”, 1/4”, 1/2” x Mop-very small, small and medium sizes x Round R2250 - sizes 2, 4 x Script Liner R2585 - size 4 x Wash R2700 - size 3/4” Mediums: x Metal Primer of choice such as Rust-oleum Ultra Cover Flat Gray Primer or DecoArt Chalky Gesso (grey) brush on. You only need to use a metal primer if you are painting on metal. x Varnish of choice-I used Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating #1303 Preparation Prime metal tray as directed by manufacturer and let dry.

Base coat the entire tray with Black Plum. Now paint over the wider rim with Rookwood Red just up to the embossed border (leaving the outer edge that has the embossing on it, Black Plum). Using a small round, “gild” by painting the raised, embossed areas with Venetian Gold.

Trace pattern and apply.

Base coat as follows: Roses - Buttermilk (make sure you leave a little space for the pattern lines to show individual petals). Paint as neatly and accurately as possible following the pattern.

Blue Flowers (3 larger ones) - Ocean Blue Green leaves - Hauser Medium Green Red leaves - Rookwood Red Painting

Roses Using Fawn, float to separate all the petals. Keep this soft by walking out the blending on your palette before applying the color to your piece.

Float a tint of Deep Burgundy on most of the petals. (Figure 1) Again, keep it soft at first. You can always strengthen the color if you need to.

Do the same with Ocean Blue, tinting each petal (Figure 1) generally opposite the Deep Burgundy tint.

With script liner and Warm White, paint the decorative lines at the top of each petal. (I ended up going over each line a 2nd time to be sure it was bright enough).

Add pollen dots of Venetian Gold. (Figure 1)

Three Large Blue Flowers Mix Buttermilk and Ocean Blue (1:2 approximately) to make a lighter value and float this from the outer edges toward flower center to the outer edges of each petal. Add more Buttermilk to that mix, for an even lighter color. With script liner, paint the decorative border lines on the outside edge of each petal.

Pull fine lines of Black Plum from the center about 1/3 of the way up each petal. Add tiny stylus dots of Venetian Gold to highlight the center. (Figure 2)

Leaves

All the green leaves are shaded with floats of Hauser Dark Green at their base. Load script liner with Hauser Dark Green to pull fine texture lines from the base up into the leaves trying not to go too much further than the shaded area itself.

Float Hauser Light Green from the tip of each leaf for highlight. On the five large leaves around the center rose, pull this color down one side of the leaf and let it fade away. Repeat the highlighting a 2nd time to brighten.

Using the script liner and Venetian Gold, add a center vein line and a decorative scroll line on the light side of the 5 large leaves. (Figure 3) At this time, add all the Venetian Gold stem lines to the flowers and leaves (including the Rookwood Red leaf sprays) with script liner.

TINY BLUE FLOWERS With the tip of the brush handle, dip dot a center (larger) of Venetian Gold. Add smaller Ocean Blue “petals” using the stylus. You can place these flowers wherever you choose. (just don’t go too crazy with them!)

Make sure to erase any pattern lines that did not get covered.

I use a spray varnish on pieces like this that have raised, embossed edges. I usually use Krylon Crystal Clear. I find it neater than trying to brush on varnish but finish it however you prefer.

Line drawing at 100%.

I Love America Original Design by Elisabetta De Maria, CDA Dearest painting friends, I wanted with all my heart to dedicate my bear to all of you and to America that I hope to reach soon... I hope you like it.... Happy Painting!

Surface x Brighton Banner 13-1/4 #31-L849 available from Cupboard Distributing, www.cdwood.com Project Supplies

x Ball Stylus x Fine Sandpaper x Lint Free Cloth Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Bittersweet Chocolate x Black Plum x Blue Chiffon x Blue Haven x Burgundy Wine x Burnt Umber x Camel x Colonial Blue x Golden Straw

x x x x x x x

Honey Brown Lamp Black Light Cinnamon Ocean Blue Sand Scarlet Soft Black Titanium White

Mediums x All Purpose Sealer of Choice x Varnish of Choice Brushes by Dynasty x Angle - Assorted Sizes for Floating Dynasty Black Gold x Deerfoot Brush Dynasty Black Gold 1/8 series 300 x Flats - Assorted Sizes for Basecoating Dynasty Black Gold x Liners - Assorted Sizes Dynasty Black Gold x Mezzaluna Medium Brush for Drybrushing x Mop Brush 3/8 and ½ to Blend and Soften Dynasty Series 400 x Round Brush #2 Dynasty Black Gold Painting Techniques Basecoat Opaque application of background color on surface or element.

Shading and Highlighting Load a small amount of paint in the corner of an Angle Brush, stroke the brush back and forth on the palette paper until most of the paint is out of the brush. It is important that the color be worked in the brush until it is completely transparent. Apply as if walking out a float of color. Repeat if necessary and use the Mop brush to blend the color.

Drybrush I use brushes that are dome shaped, rounded and have shorter hairs. Dip the brush into the paint and then wipe the brush on a dry paper towel, rotating the brush until only a residue of paint remains. Move to the surface, use a light pressure and begin “scrubbing” the paint out of the brush, slowly, in a small circular motion. Work the paint outward, allowing it to diminish so that there is a gradation of color.

Instructions Using a large brush, apply a coat of sealer and let dry. Sand raised grain with fine grit sandpaper and remove dust with a lint free cloth.

Transfer only the main pattern lines, details will be added as necessary.

Refer to color photo for placement of shading and highlighting.

Painting Instructions Sky Basecoat with Blue Chiffon.

Drybrush with Titanium White to brighten the entire background.

Paint the clouds with a more intense drybrush using Titanium White.

Load Liner brush with Colonial Blue to paint the seagulls.

Shade around edges with Colonial Blue.

Roof Basecoat roof stripes with Scarlet and Titanium White.

Shade the red areas along the top edge with Black Plum.

Shade along the top edge of the white sections with Colonial Blue.

Stars above the roof Basecoat with Titanium White.

Little Bear Head, Body, Arms and Feet Basecoat with Honey Brown + Camel 1: 1.

Muzzle Basecoat with Camel.

Blend towards the outer edge, shade around the nose, and mouth with Honey Brown.

Start by drybrushing with Camel in highlighted areas. Using Burnt Umber, shade under the hat, around the muzzle, inside ear at base, against dress under neck, arms against sleeves and flag pole, around striped arm patch, top of feet under dress, and between feet.

Eyes Basecoat with Lamp Black.

Highlight with a float of Titanium White.

Add a highlight at the top of each with Titanium White and stylus.

Eyelashes and Eyebrows Load liner with Lamp Black to line eyelashes.

Load the same brush with Burnt Umber to create eyebrows.

Nose Basecoat with Burnt Umber.

Shade the bottom edge with Soft Black.

Highlight with Honey Brown.

Load Liner with Sand to add highlights.

Mouth Paint the mouth with Liner and Burnt Umber.

Ear Basecoat with Camel.

Shade first with Honey Brown and deepen with Burnt Umber.

Drybrush with Camel to highlight.

Paint the inside of the ear with Burnt Umber.

Creating the Soft Fur After all the shading and highlighting has been floated as described above, several applications of stippled color will create the appearance of soft fur.

Work one section at a time. Load Deerfoot brush with Honey Brown. Start in the middle and stipple. It is important to work wet on wet, this allows colors to mix to create natural shades.

Continue working towards the shaded areas with the Light Cinnamon. Remember, there must be a gradual and soft transition of color with no harsh lines.

Clean the brush only with paper towels between each color change.

To highlight, start with Honey Brown, continue with Camel, then gradually lighten more and more with Sand. Brighten highlights with Golden Straw.

Load toe of angle with thinned Burgundy Wine to float cheeks.

Using angle and thinned Burnt Umber, deepen shading. Darken where needed with Bittersweet Chocolate.

Load liner with thinned Camel + Sand to create the hair everywhere. Add highlights with thinned Sand.

Hat Basecoat blue area with Blue Haven.

Shade with Colonial Blue and highlight with Blue Chiffon.

Brighten the highlight with a drybrush of Titanium White.

Deepen shading with Ocean Blue.

Red Band Basecoat with Scarlet.

Shade with Black Plum and highlight with Titanium White.

Paint the stripe with the Liner brush and Titanium White.

Dress Basecoat blue area with Blue Haven.

Shade with Colonial Blue and highlight with Blue Chiffon.

Brighten highlights by drybrushing with Titanium White.

Deepen shading with Ocean Blue.

Paint the buttons with Titanium White. Load liner with Colonial Blue to paint the threads.

Red collar and bow Basecoat collar Scarlet.

Shade with Black Plum and highlight with Titanium White.

Paint the stripe with the liner brush and Titanium White.

Arm Patch Paint the alternating stripes with Blue Haven and Scarlet.

Shade around the outer edge and across top of red stripes with Colonial Blue.

Highlight the red stripes using liner and Titanium White.

Brighten highlights with a drybrush with Titanium White.

Heart Basecoat blue field area with Blue Haven.

Shade outer edges with Colonial Blue and drybrush center area with Titanium White.

Deepen the shading with Ocean Blue.

Red Stripes Basecoat with Scarlet.

Shade with Black Plum.

White Stripes Basecoat with Titanium White.

Shade with Colonial Blue.

Drybrush everything with Titanium White.

Flag Blue Field Basecoat with Blue Haven.

Shade with Colonial Blue and drybrush with Titanium White.

Deepen shading with Ocean Blue.

Star Basecoat with Titanium White.

Red Stripes and Bows Basecoat with Scarlet.

Shade with Black Plum.

White Stripes Basecoat with Titanium White.

Shade with Colonial Blue.

Drybrush everything with Titanium White.

Flag Pole Basecoat Honey Brown.

Shade with Burnt Umber and highlight with Camel.

Hanging Stars Blue Sections Basecoat with Blue Haven.

Shade with Colonial Blue and drybrush with Titanium White.

Deepen the shading with Ocean Blue.

Star Basecoat Titanium White.

Red Stripes Basecoat Scarlet.

Shade with Black Plum.

White Stripes Basecoat Titanium White.

Shade with Colonial Blue.

Drybrush everything with Titanium White.

Hanging Cord Line with Colonial Blue.

Ground Load angle brush with Burnt Umber to float the ground. Use the same brush and Soft Black to darken shaded areas.

Finishing Remove all tracing lines.

Following manufacturer’s instructions, varnish with desired sheen.

I hope you enjoy painting this as much as I did! ~Happy Painting, Elisabetta

Enlarge to fit desired surface.

Pretty in Pink Original Design by Cathy Nestroyl

Surface 12” x 16” black gesso primed canvas panel (Michaels or JoAnn’s) Supplies: x Ball Stylus x Circle Template – size 1/6” thru 2 ¼”. Manufacturer: Staedler x Grey Transfer Paper x High Gloss Spray Varnish x Micron pen – 0.20 mm x Pencil x Tracing Paper x White Transfer Paper Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Antique Gold x Baby Blue x Black Forest Green x Black x Blue Harbor x Burnt Sienna x Buttermilk x Cadmium Yellow x Dioxazine Purple x French Vanilla

x x x x x x x x x

Hauser Medium Green Lavender Melon Neutral Grey Peony Pink Poodleskirt Pink Sour Apple True Red Snow White

Brushes: x Angle ¼”, 1/8” - Royal Taklon x Flat #2, #6 – Plaid x Round #1 – Plaid Preparations Trace pattern onto tracing paper. Transfer pattern onto canvas with either the grey transfer paper or white, depending on the color of surface you are using.

Special Instructions The detail outlines will be added with the micron pen at the very end. The shading and highlighting must be finished, and the paint will need to be completely dry before the penwork is added.

Flamingo Basecoat as follows: Melon – neck, face, upper leg, cheek Buttermilk – back part of beak, lower leg Neutral Grey – Front part of beak French Vanilla - or -mix of Antique Gold + Snow White (1:2) – eye (Note: you can use any size circle of your choice on the template to create the eye) Highlight/Shade as follows: Shade outer edge of neck, face, upper leg, cheek, back part of beak, lower leg with True Red. Highlight top edge of cheek with Snow White.

Shade around outer edge of both sections of the front part of beak with Black.

Shade outer edge of eye with Cadmium Yellow, highlight center with Snow White.

Using the stylus, add a dot of Lamp Black to the eye.

Basecoat ribbon with Lavender.

Leaves Note: Basecoat and shade leaves individually, so the transfer lines will not be painted over. This pertains mainly to the cluster of leaves that you see on the pattern.

Basecoat as follows: Hauser Medium Green – All leaves Highlight/Shade as follows: Reference photo to shade with Black Forest Green, highlight with Sour Apple.

Flowers Note: Basecoat and shade flowers individually, so the transfer lines will not be painted over.

Basecoat as follows: Buttermilk – flower petals Highlight/Shade as follows: Reference photo to shade petals with Peony Pink – or - a mix of True Red + Snow White (1:2).

Flower Centers Basecoat with Cadmium Yellow.

Shade along bottom with Burnt Sienna and highlight along top with Snow White.

Floating Balls Basecoat as follows: Peony Pink - or - a mix of True Red + Snow White (1:2), Poodleskirt Pink, Lavender Highlight along top edges/Shade along bottom as follows: Shade the Peony Pink (True Red + Snow White) ball with True Red. Shade Poodleskirt Pink ball with a mix of True Red + Snow White (1:2).

Shade Lavender ball with Dioxazine Purple.

Highlight all balls with Snow White.

Water Balls and Splashes Basecoat with Baby Blue.

Shade along bottom sides with Harbor Blue.

Highlight along top with Snow White.

Finishing Touches: Outline details using the Micron Pen. Follow Manufacturer’s directions, spray lightly with high gloss varnish

I hope you enjoy painting my “Pretty in Pink” Flamingo.

Line drawing at 100%.

Slice of Summer Original Design by Sharon Cook Nothing conjures up wonderful summer memories better than recalling the flavor of that sweet, juicy, first-of-the-season bite of watermelon—right from the center of the slice! This adorable threesome hopes you are enjoying your summer as much as they are and invites YOU to savor your own “Slice of Summer.” CHOMP!

Surface Slice of Summer Watermelon Plaque; available from Sharon Cook Creations on Etsy; https://etsy.me/3cEAcGb.

Project Supplies x Grey and White Transfer Paper x Stylus x Mild Grit Sandpaper, Sanding Disk, or Sanding Sponge x Wool Sea Sponge x Green Painter’s Tape x Slice of Summer Letter Stencil; available from Sharon Cook Creations; https://etsy.me/3rEJc2y. x Thin Wire, Yarn, Jute, or String to hang plaque x E-6000 or Household GOOP Adhesive (optional) x Triangle Picture Hanger (optional) Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Bright Orange x Buttermilk x Cactus Flower x Cocoa x Coral Blush x Cotton Candy x Dark Chocolate x Dried Clay x Espresso x Festive Green x Forest Green x Light Buttermilk Mediums x Dazzling Metallics—Shimmering Silver x Craft Twinkles—Crystal x Americana Multi-Purpose Sealer x Americana DuraClear Matte Varnish x Americana Glazing Medium

x x x x x x x x x x x x

Lamp (Ebony) Black Primary Yellow Sable Brown Slate Grey Sour Apple Spiced Pumpkin Sunny Day Tropical Blue True Red Turquoise Blue Tuscan Red Warm Beige

Brushes Royal & Langnickel Aqualon Angular, 2160, Size 1/2” and ¾”, by Royal & Langnickel Moderna Dome Round Brush, Sizes ½” and 3/8”; available from Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/collections/dry-brushes/products/1-2-moderna-dome-round-brush Chris Haughey Chris’s Epic 18/0 Script Liner, Item #03-924-18/0; Available at Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/products/epic-18-0-script-liner Chris’s Radical #5 Round Brush, Item #03-927-5; available from Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/collections/brushes/products/radical-5-round-brush Kingart Kingart Original Gold 9400 Series, Golden Taklon Angular Shader, Sizes ¾” and ½”; Available from Kingart; https://www.kingartco.com/products/kingart-original-gold-golden-taklonangular-shader?variant=12366753890327 Dynasty Mezzaluna X-large – ½”; Item DYN23078; Available from The Brush Guys; https://www.thebrushguys.com/shop/dynasty-mezzaluna-brushes/ -OR- from Amazon.com; https://www.amazon.com/DYNASTY-Dynasty-Mezzaluna-Brush-Large/dp/B081TJBNH6?th=1 Preparation Trace design onto tracing paper. The plaque requires little (or no) no sanding. Apply MultiPurpose Sealer to the front, sides, and back of the plaque. Allow to dry. Lightly sand, then tack to remove any sanding dust.

Painting Instructions Basecoats Basecoat the plaque in the following manner: The faces and fingers of the boy and girl are an equal mixture of Warm Beige and Cotton Candy. The boy’s hair is an equal mixture of Cocoa and Spiced Pumpkin. The boy’s shirt and the girl’s headband are Turquoise Blue. The girl’s hair is Espresso.

The flower in the girl’s hair (excluding the center) and her sundress (excluding the trim) are Sunny Day. The trim on the girl’s sundress and center of the flower is Bright Orange. The dog (excluding the nose, muzzle, tongue, and collar) is Sable Brown. The muzzle is Cocoa. The tongue is a mixture of 75% Coral Blush and 25% True Red. The dog’s collar and watermelon rind are Festive Green. The dog’s nose is Lamp (Ebony) Black. The eyelets and buckle on the dog’s collar are Slate Grey. The eyes are based in Light Buttermilk.

Watermelon Red Area and Seeds: Stipple, then dry brush, the center of the red watermelon area with an equal mixture of Coral Blush and Bright Orange. Repeat in the center to brighten, if desired. Dry brush, then float, around the bottom edge of the red area with Tuscan Red (this dry brushing should be approximately ¾” and gradually fade away towards the center of the watermelon. Float a very wide float of Tuscan Red around the bottom edge of the red area of the watermelon. Base the watermelon seeds with Lamp (Ebony) Black. Float a very sheer float just inside the edge of each watermelon seed.

Green Watermelon Rind: Apply green painter’s tape over the edge of the red area of the watermelon, next to the green rind, and cut tape to fit over the kid’s hands and the dog’s paws. (The purpose of the tape is to block any of the green from getting onto the red of the watermelon, and onto the paws and fingers in the next couple of steps.)

Dry brush wide, irregular-shaped stripes around the edge of the watermelon, approximately every two inches, or so. Dry brush between the irregular Sour Apple stripes with Forest Green.

Create an equal mixture of Glazing Medium, Sunny Day, and Sour Apple, and another equal mixture of Glazing Medium and Forest Green. Using the wool sea sponge which is damp (NOT wet), lightly dip an edge of the sponge into the Sour Apple mixture and lightly pounce along the green rind. This will leave a wonderful, splotchy look to the rind and make it look a little more realistic.

Repeat sponging along the rind with the sponge dipped into the Forest Green mixture. Do NOT try to blend the two colors together; they should look kind of spotted and splotchy. Allow to dry, then remove the green painter’s tape. Float Forest Green on the rind next to the dog’s paws and the kid’s hands.

Heavily dry brush with Light Buttermilk over the area where the red area of the watermelon and the green rind meet. Repeat dry brushing, if necessary, to brighten.

Boy and Girl Faces and Fingers Highlights: Drybrush all over the face and fingers with an equal mixture of Warm Beige and Light Buttermilk. Repeat dry brushing to brighten the highlights on the top of the noses, bottoms of the chins, above the mouths, on the sides of the faces next to the eyes, and on the tops of the ears. Float with the same mixture on the top halves of the noses, on the tops of the ears, above the mouths, on the chins, and on each finger along the side that is facing the top of the plaque.

Shading: Dry brush with an equal mixture of Cotton Candy and Dried Clay on the bottom of the ears, inside the ears, on the face below the hairlines, on the bottom halves of the noses, around the eyes, below the eyebrows, below the mouths, on the bottom-sides of the faces, on the necks below the chins, and on each finger along the side that is facing the bottom of the plaque.

Float over each of those areas with the same mixture to strengthen the shading. Float again with Dried Clay around the eyes, inside the ears, on the necks below the chins, and on the fingers to create a separation between them.

Cheeks, tints, lips, and mouths: Drybrush the cheeks with the Dried Clay/Cotton Candy mixture. Lightly drybrush in the center of the cheeks with a tiny bit of Coral Blush and True Red (note that this dry brushing should be very light and done with very little paint in the drybrush.)

Scrub a tiny bit of color on the bottom-sides of the face, bottom of nose, inside of ears, and bottom of fingers to add a little depth. Float the bottom half of the noses with an equal mixture of Coral Blush and Cactus Flower with a couple of drops of True Red added; thin paint slightly with water and wash the lips on the girl.

Thin a mixture of Coral Blush with a drop or two of Dark Chocolate to create a wash and paint the insides of their mouths.

Apply a small stroke of Light Buttermilk across the top of the girl’s nose.

Eyes: Girl: Float around the inside edge of the iris with Turquoise Blue. Thin a pool of Tropical Blue with a couple drops of water and, using the 18/0 liner brush, line the spoke-like strokes inside her iris’.

Float again around the inside edge of the irises with Tropical Blue.

Base the pupils with Lamp (Ebony) Black. Using Light Buttermilk, dot the center of the pupils, stroke, and dot the outer edges of the irises.

Base the girl’s eyebrows with Espresso.

Boy: The eyes for the boy are painted in the same manner as the girl’s eyes, except substitute a mixture Sour Apple mixed with a drop of Sable Brown in place of the Turquoise Blue when floating around the inside edge of the iris. Substitute Foliage Green mixed with a drop of Sable Brown for the spoke-like strokes in iris, and for floating again around the inside edge of the iris.

Base the boy’s eyebrows with an equal mixture of Cocoa and Spiced Pumpkin. Dot his freckles with Espresso.

The Rest of the Girl’s Details Clothing: Drybrush the flower petals and her sundress with Light Buttermilk. Float the tips of petals with the same color. Shade the sides and bottom of each petal, the sundress next to the watermelon, and trim with Primary Yellow.

Mix a couple drops of Bright Orange into the Primary Yellow and float to deepen shading of the flower petals. With the same mix, float two or three vein lines in each flower petal.

Float to shade around the edges of the flower center with an equal mixture of Bright Orange and True Red. Using same mix, shade the bottom of the orange trim on the girl’s sundress and where the trim meets the watermelon.

Drybrush the headband with an equal mixture of Turquoise Blue and Light Buttermilk. With Tropical Blue, shade the sides of the headband and where it touches the flower and the dog’s ear.

Dot the largest dots with Sour Apple, the medium dots with Sunny Day, and the smallest dots with Bright Orange. Dot the sundress (excluding the trim) with both Bright Orange and Sour Apple. Dot the center of the flower with Light Buttermilk.

Hair: Dry brush all over her hair with a mixture of 75% Sable Brown and 25% Light Buttermilk. Float the highlight streaks in her hair with the same mixture.

Using Dark Chocolate, float around the outside edges of her hair, and on the opposite sides of the highlighted streaks; float on the bottom of her eyebrows.

The Rest of the Boy’s Details Clothing: Dry brush the center of his shirt with an equal mixture of Turquoise Blue and Light Buttermilk. Float to shade the shirt and add lined ribbing with Tropical Blue.

Hair: Dry brush all over the hair with an equal mixture of Spiced Pumpkin and Light Buttermilk. Float the highlight streaks in his hair with the same mixture.

Using an equal mixture of Espresso and Spiced Pumpkin, float around the outside edges of the hair, on the opposite sides of the highlighted streaks, and along the bottom of his eyebrows.

The Brown Dog (named Dutchess—who is one of my “grandchildren” dogs) Face, Neck, and Paws: Dry brush Dutchess’ face, neck, and paws (excluding the muzzle) with an equal mixture of Sable Brown and Buttermilk. Float to highlight along the top of Dutchess’ head, above her “eyebrows”, the parts of her that are bent upward, on the paws between separations, and on the inside edges of her mouth (by the sides of her tongue.)

Dry brush to shade with Espresso. Float Dark Chocolate over the Espresso dry brushing to deepen the shading, and float above her “eyebrows” and around her eyes.

Add one drop of Lamp (Ebony) Black and a couple drops of water and wash the inside of her mouth. Dry brush inside of her ears with Coral Blush. Add a tiny bit of True Red to the brush and dry brush again inside her ears to intensify the color. Without adding any more paint, scrub a small bit of color at the bottom edges of ears and paws.

Muzzle: Dry brush the center of her muzzle with Buttermilk. Drybrush around the outer edges with an equal mixture of Sable Brown and Espresso. Float around the outer edges to deepen shading.

Dot the freckles with Dark Chocolate.

Eyes: Float around the inside edge of her iris with Sable Brown. Thin a pool of Espresso with a couple drops of water and, using the 18/0 liner brush, line the spoke-like strokes inside iris. Float again around the inside edge of her iris’ with Espresso. Finish her pupils and highlight strokes following instructions above for the girl and boy eyes.

Tongue: Dry brush the center of her tongue with Coral Blush mixed with a small amount of Cactus Flower. Float to shade tongue with True Red. Deepen the shading at the base of the tongue and down the center with a sheer float of Tuscan Red.

Collar: Drybrush the center of the collar with Sour Apple. Line the thin stripes with Sunny Day. Float to shade around the edges of the collar with Forest Green.

Base the eyelets and buckle on the collar with very thin float of Lamp (Ebony) Black. Add a drop or two of water to Dazzling Metallics—Shimmering Silver, and topcoat over the eyelets and buckle.

Lining Line the details of the design with the 18/0 script liner using Lamp (Ebony) Black which has been thinned with a couple of drops of water. Stroke eyelashes on Dutchess (she only needs a few eyelashes), add a few wispy hairs inside of her ears, and paint claws on her paws.

Stroke eyelashes on the boy and girl.

Lettering Stencil the lettering with several light layers of Light Buttermilk. Be patient as you stencil and do not try to achieve complete opacity in one application. It will likely take three or four layers of stenciling to completely cover the red and black paint beneath the lettering.

Finishing Instructions: DuraClear Matte Varnish: Varnish the top, sides, and back of the plaque with two coats of varnish, drying well before application.

Craft Twinkles—Crystal: Apply one or two applications over the flower on the girl’s headband, over the noses on the boy and girl, on Dutchess’ nose and tongue, and over the “Slice of Summer” lettering.

The plaque may be hung by threading thin wire, yarn, jute, or string through the holes drilled in the upper corner of the plaque and securing the materials used for hanging the plaque.

Alternately, you may attach a triangle hanger to the back of the plaque using E-6000 Adhesive or GOOP Adhesive. Allow the adhesive to cure for 24 hours before hanging the plaque. Enjoy!

Copyright Notice: © Copyright 2021 Sharon R. Cook. All rights reserved under Pan American and international copyright conventions. This pattern may be hand copied as necessary for the purpose of transferring the design for painting. Whether this pattern is purchased as part of an electronic magazine or as a paper packet or electronic-packet, you may not resell this design in any manner, nor make copies of either for resale, to give away, or to use in teaching classes or workshops without express written consent from Sharon R. Cook and/or the owners of this electronic magazine (see Note to Teachers/Shop Owners below). You may not print the colored images for the purpose of decoupaging to a surface, nor may you sell copies of the printouts from this publication in any format. The designs may not be used as web graphics. The projects created from the patterns in this packet may be personally painted by the purchaser for fun or for sale (i.e. at local craft shows, or internet auctions such as eBay, and on their own websites or photo sites), although if shown on the internet, you must provide credit to Sharon R. Cook as the designer in your description. Manufacturing the finished product for mass marketing in national gift shows and national gift publications is prohibited. No mechanical, electronic, digital or any other method of reproduction or distribution of this pattern, line drawing, and/or instructions is authorized. Any use other than described herein is prohibited without the express written consent of the designer and author. Disclaimer: The information in this pattern packet is presented to you in good faith. Since the author/designer has no control over the physical conditions surrounding the application of the information presented, results cannot be guaranteed.

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Sunflower Tray

Original Design by Lorraine Morison Sunflowers give the impression of being happy flowers especially when they abound in summertime. We love to be outside at this time of year to enjoy the warmth of the season and to entertain friends. This lovely tray would be an ideal accessory for just such an occasion.

Surface Round scalloped tray with handles, 457mm (18 in) by 387mm (15¼ in), with a dished, coved circular centre 311mm (12¼ in) diameter.

Project Supplies x Banding Stencil x Chalk Pencil x Palette Knife x Ruler x Sandpaper x Stylus x Tracing Paper x Wet Palette x White Transfer Paper Mediums by DecoArt x Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher x Americana Brush n’ Blend x Americana Extender Medium x Americana Glaze Medium x Americana Multi-Purpose Sealer Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics: x Antique Gold x Aqua Sky x Avocado Dip x Black Forest Green x Blueberry x Blue Mist x Charcoal Grey x Colonial Blue x Espresso x Evergreen x Foliage Green

x x x x x x x x x x x

Golden Straw Hauser Medium Green Honey Brown Marigold Navy Blue Primary Yellow Summer Squash Taffy Cream Thicket Victorian Blue Warm White

Brushes: x Angle Shader ¼, 1/16 x Basecoating Brush or Roller x Raphael Fine Liner 8413 No 2 x Raphael Round Brush No.4 x Stencil Brushes Preparation Basecoat the piece with two coats of Blueberry mixed with equal amounts of Multi-Purpose Sealer, sanding between coats. When dry, paint on a thin film of Glaze Medium. While still wet, using a stencil brush with Victorian Blue on the tips, pounce this colour all over the surface. Repeat with another stencil brush filled with Colonial Blue and another brush filled with Aqua Sky. The end result is a very mottled look.

8VLQJ WKH FKDON SHQFLO DQG WKH UXOHU PHDVXUH LQ IURP WKH FRYHG HGJH PP Ƙ LQ DQG PDNH D PP ƚ LQ ZLGH EDQG DOO WKH ZD\ DURXQG WKH WUD\ 3DLQW WKLV ZLWK WZR FRDWV RI 1avy Blue. When dry, and using the banding stencil as a guide, paint the squares with Aqua Sky. Shade one side of the square with Blueberry and the other side with Warm White to highlight.

The outer edge trim of the tray is painted with Navy Blue.

Trace the design from the pattern sheet onto tracing paper and then transfer it to the piece using the transfer paper and stylus. First trace the lace, which goes on the outside, and then trace the inner circle band.

Basecoat the band with Navy Blue and use the banding stencil again to fill it in with Aqua Sky. All blending throughout the piece is done with Extender Medium.

Leaves (tiny) Basecoat with Thicket. Shade with Black Forest Green. Highlight with Blue Mist.

Leaves (large) Basecoat with Hauser Medium Green. Shade with Evergreen. Highlight with Foliage Green.

Sunflower Basecoat the front petals with Golden Straw.

Second coat is Summer Squash. Shade the base of the petals with Marigold. Highlight with Taffy Cream.

Basecoat the back petals with Antique Gold. Shade with Honey Brown. Highlight with a mix of Marigold/Primary Yellow 1:2.

Flower Centers Basecoat with Espresso. Stipple Honey Brown in a circle inside the flower center.

Then inside that circle stipple Hauser Medium Green, as shown on the step board, and repeat with a topcoat of Avocado Dip. Create pollen with dip dots of Golden Straw.

Shade around the entire center with Charcoal Grey.

Lace Outline the lace with Warm White.

Step 1. Wash in the double top line of each motif with watery Warm White.

Step 2. Wash in the joining bridge with watery Warm White and paint a flip float highlight in the middle of the bridge.

Step 3. Paint in 1/3rd of the teardrop petals thick Warm White and paint radiating lines under the arch.

Step 4. Large cross hatching is painted in this section and completed with four dots at each intersection.

Step 5. Tiny dots are placed all around the design.

Step 6. Cornelli Work is painted in this section, as shown.

Finishing Allow surface to dry overnight. Remove all tracing lines. Protect with a spray varnish following manufacturer’s instructions.

Enlarge for desired surface.

I Love USA Original Design by Marika Moretti – Copyright 2021 marika@marikamorettidesigns.com www.marikamorettidesigns.com YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDrmdpar4G4x_mSKlP3V8Yg Facebook – Instagram: Marika Moretti Designs Dear Pixelated Palette’s readers, thank you for painting this design with me! I lived in the USA for a period of my life and I really enjoyed it. In fact, a piece of my heart is still there.

You know, how people say, “Home is where the heart is”? Well, this is so true! I am blessed to have two homes, one in Italy and one in the USA!

Supplies Surface You can adapt this design to many surfaces such as a wooden panel with frame, a plaque, or a box lid. I painted this design on a metal IKEA cookie jar lid (approx. 7,5”).

Additional Supplies x DecoArt Media White Gesso (if painting on metal) x Graphite Paper White/Black x Linseed Oil and Burnt Umber Oil Paint (only if you want to antique) x Palette Paper x Stencil with small stars (any brand) x Stylus x Super Film x Transfer Paper Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylic x Antique Rose (optional) x Antique White x Asphaltum x Blue Mist x Burnt Umber x Heritage Brick x Lamp Black x Light Buttermilk x Mississippi Mud x Neon Fiery Red x Paynes Grey x Soft Black Brushes x Filbert Dynasty Black Gold 206FIL (for base coating): #4, 6 x Flat 1” x Maxine’s Mop Loew Cornell ½”, ¼” x Mezzaluna Dynasty Medium x Mini Liner Dynasty Black Gold 20/0 x Round Dynasty Black Gold 206L: #1 x Shader Dynasty Black Gold 206 FW ¾”, ½”, ¼” x Stencil Brush Pro Dynasty 1/2 (or make-up sponge) x Stippler Princeton 1/4” Introduction All rights reserved. This pattern has been created for personal use and fun. This design cannot be reproduced in any part without previous agreement. You can enlarge or reduce the line drawing to fit the design to the selected surface, after purchase of the pattern itself.

Photocopying, scanning or other types of reproductions of this design for personal or business use are forbidden. It will be appreciated, if you will mention the designer of this pattern among social networks or personal blogs.

Surface preparation On my YouTube channel Marika Moretti Designs, I have many tutorials in English too! This one is related to how to prep the surface: https://youtu.be/xO9yZ2Hj0H0 As I mentioned before, I wanted to use the lid of an IKEA cookie jar. It is a very smooth metal, so you need to apply something that makes the paint adhere to the surface.

These are three options: 1. Apply a couple of coats of DecoArt Media Gesso (I used white) and then basecoat with Payne’s Grey.

2. Apply DecoArt Paint Adhesion Medium and then basecoat with Paynes Grey 3. Use DecoArt Americana Décor Chalky Finish paint: I found out that this paint really sticks to the surface and I love to use it. So, find a color that you like... just go for it!

When your background is completely dry, transfer the main guidelines.

Heart Basecoat heart with Heritage Brick. Shade with Soft Black along the bottom, between the two upper sections, and behind the bear. Highlight along the top with Neon Fiery Red. Add wavy stitches and “x” with watered Antique White.

Bear If you want, there is another tutorial on my YouTube channel about stippling (https://youtu.be/diPS_b-u2LY). I am painting flowers there, but the technique is always the same!

Basecoat the whole bear by stippling with Mississippi Mud. You will need 2 or 3 coats to cover the surface. When it’s all dry, transfer the detail guidelines to divide the sections; ears, face, arms, and chest.

When highlighting and shading stippled areas, always start in the background and move to the foreground; 1) ears, arm on right and body + head and chest; 2) muzzle and bending arm.

Do one section at a time in the above-mentioned order. Start highlighting by stippling with Antique White, then Antique White + a touch of Light Buttermilk. Start with the brightest areas (top of ears, top of head, top of muzzle, center of chest) and softly fade.

Shade with Burnt Umber, then Soft Black: to separate ears from head and inside ears (very dark here), behind muzzle, under head, behind bending arm, top of bending arm (only first color here), on right arm (next to chest and body and behind sign pole).

Face details: Drybrush cheeks with Antique Rose (if you do not have it, mix Heritage Brick and Antique White or use any other rosy color). Eyes and eyebrows are Lamp Black with a Light Buttermilk highlight do. The nose is painted with thin strokes of Soft Black, while still wet highlight with Antique White. Mouth is painted with small strokes of Soft Black. Add thin wavy lines to better separate the sections with Lamp Black.

Sign If you look at the step-by-step pictures, you will probably notice that the basecoat of the sign was Antique White, but I didn’t like it so I changed. However, feel free to basecoat with the color you prefer.

Basecoat with Blue Mist. Drybrush highlights in the center with Light Buttermilk. Float around outer edges with Asphaltum.

Add lettering and thin wood grains with Lamp Black, heart is Heritage Brick. Outline sign with Lamp Black, repeat with Antique White on the outside to make it pop against the background. Paint pole with Burnt Umber. Add some dashes of Antique White here and there to highlight. Shade behind arm and sign with Soft Black.

Final Touches Outline where needed with Lamp Black. Add stars on the edge using stencil and Light Buttermilk.

I love antiquing my pieces! You do not have to if you do not like it, but I think antiquing gives a warmer touch to the whole project and makes it more uniform. I take a piece of old fabric (an old T-Shirt is perfect), take some linseed oil and touch it in some Burnt Umber oil paint.

Start rubbing on the surface until you achieve desired effect.

I hope you liked painting this design with me!

Marika Line drawing at 100%