Pixelated Palette May 2020 Issue

May 2020 Table of Contents Elisabetta de Maria, CDA

Susan Cochrane

Jane Allen

Believe

Seaside Siblings

40-44

80-90

Cheryl Poulin

Sharon Cook

Karen WisnerDyar

15-20

46-55

The Eagle’s Gaze

5-14

Angel’s Trumpet

Sharon Bond Apple Pie

21-28

Betsy Ross

Bless America Plaque

92-98

Sunny Tonini

Anita Morin

Margarita Kitchen Towel

Let’s Go Camping

99-105

56-64

Deb Mishima

Sandy LeFlore Freedom Sam

Freedom Sunflower

29-33

66-74

107-111

Deb Antonick

Rosie Singalewitch

How You Doing?

Gnome of the Brave

35-39

Rose Ring Box

Patricia Jarrett

June Preview

Page 3

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Editor in Chief: Lindsey Applegate; palettepixels@gmail.com Executive Editor: Susan Mynyk; pixelatedsusan@gmail.com Copyright Notice: ©2020 Pixelated Palette. The Pixelated Palette is produced 12 times per year by Cupboard Distributing, 1463 S US Highway 68, Urbana, Ohio 43078. All rights reserved on entire contents of this digital magazine.

The information contained within this publication is presented in good faith. As the author(s) and publisher have no control over the application of the information presented, the results are not guaranteed.

Reproduction of editorial content is strictly prohibited without written permission of the Publisher.

June 2020 Sneak Peek

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Let the Painting begin!!

Greetings dear readers and friends!

Wow, so much can happen in four, short weeks. It is my sincere hope that this letter finds you all well. Covid 19 is not over, and many challenges are still ahead, but our goal with this and every issue, it to give you a reprieve from worry. This month, patriotism stands proudly, flowers are blooming, whimsy abounds, and new surfaces are shared.

There has been discussion on social media that sometimes it’s hard to pick up your brush and begin. However, the consensus is that once you do, it doesn’t take long for you to get lost in the colors. Thank goodness for decorative painting; it offers us the opportunity to escape from what troubles us.

Even if you consider your skills to be a bit rusty, you will find there are projects for all painting levels. Rosie Singalewitch, who is making her debut with us, has created a delicate rose floral on a diminutive round box. It could be the perfect project with which to begin.

On a larger scale, sharpen your pencils! Eli DeMaria’s epic cover design, the majestic eagle, displays the emblem most often associated with strength and courage. For me, this powerful image inspires our continued bravery in the weeks ahead. As you thumb through the pages, you will be pleased to discover there are several patriotic designs.

I would like to believe that this month we can entice you to try something new, and, it’s not necessary to “do” an entire project. Can you imagine just sculpting Jane Allen’s Quik-wood fishies and adding a pin back? They would be adorable to share as Random Acts of Kindness.

According to Jimmy Buffet, “it’s five o’clock somewhere”; so, embrace your ongoing stay-cation with a painted margarita towel! Camping out at home??

We have a project for that. Need a new pet?? I know where you can find a delicate goldfish in a bubble globe… and, there’s plenty more from which to choose!

I urge you to show your painted projects on any social media, including the Pixelated Palette Facebook Page. https://www.facebook.com/pixelatedpalette/ This simple act of sharing keeps all our painter hearts connected. It also becomes a public way to thank each of the designers who pushed past the somber tone of recent events, to create happy hearted designs especially for YOU. I pray you stay well, paint with joy and share your artistry with all of us!

5/2020

Waving my, soon to be soggy, paintbrush at ya’!

Susan 4

The Eagle’s Gaze Original Design by Elisabetta De Maria, CDA

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Dearest painting friends, here I am again with a pastel project. As you know I love birds. I have different paintings in acrylic, but this time, for this eagle, I decided to use pastels: I wanted to get closer to perfection ... I hope you like it!….Happy Painting my friends!

Surface: x Sheet Pastel Mat 20 x 27 Grey Supplies: x Photo (resize as necessary) x Graphite Paper x Hb2 Pencil x Rubber Eraser x Hand- Held or Electric Pencil Sharpener x Lint Free Paper Towels x Smudge ( aka Blending Stump) Stabilo CarbOthello Pastel Pencils (DickBlick.com) x 100 Titanium White x 575 x 105 Ivory x 585 x 205 Neutral Yellow x 640 x 210 Orange Yellow x 655 x 385 Violet Deep x 675 x 405 Ultramarine Blue x 706 x 435 Ultramarine Blue Light x 708 x 440 Sky Blue x 720 x 450 Cyan Blue x 726 x 560 Leaf Green Pale x 750 x 570 Leaf Green Middle Caran d’ache Pastel Pencils (DickBlick.com) x 008 Grayish Black x 009 Black x 039 Olive Brown x 046 Cassel Earth x 064 Medium Russet

x x x x x x x x

066 068 069 300 408 631 719 901

Leaf Green Olive Green Caput Mortuum Violet English Red Deep French Red Ochre Gray 4 Gray 5 Cold Gray 1 Cold Gray 4 Neutral Black

Raw Russet Herculanum Red Burnt Sienna Fast Orange Dark Sepia Light Ultramarine Violet Dark Phthalo Green Chinese White

Bruynzeel Design Colored Pencils (DickBlick.com) x 46 Sanguine x 94 Silver Soft Pastel Rembrant x 409,5 Burnt Umber x 411,5 Burnt Sienna

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Tips x For each portion, always start on the left side and continue to the right: (left-handed people will work in the opposite manner) this will prevent smudging with your hand. x If you have to work on a part already painted, protect the painted area with a towel to avoid removing the color or dirtying with your hand. x Always follow the direction of the feather growth. x You may find it helpful to blend some areas with your fingers. x Always have sharp pencils.

Let’s Paint x The main, color photo can be enlarged up to 200% with no loss of detail. x Resize the black and white photo to best fit your surface. x After placing the photo on the pastelmat, place the sheet of graphite paper in the middle, graphite side down. x With a pencil or stylus trace over all the guidelines, contours and details. x Now arrange the colored photo next to your sheet so as to check step by step all the details.

Eye: With the pastel Carbothello n 750 draw the shape of the pupil and fill the interior with the same color.

With the same color outline the shape of the eye.

To create the iris, you will use many colors. If you study the image, you will see that it is made up of many shades.

Studying the photo, begin the inside of the eye starting with a base painted with Caran D’Ache 039 and then working with Carbothello pastels n 585 and 575.

Blend with the smudge.

Darken with Carbothello n 640 and with Caran D’Ache n 719.

With the Caran D’Ache n 719, create the rays inside the eye.

Lighten with the pastel Carbothello n 570 and 560 and give light strokes with Carbothello n 105 and 100.

Following the photo, gradually darken using Caran D’ache n 408.

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Beak (Figs 3, 4, 5)

Fig 3

Study the photo, lay in the following colors: The brighter part is painted with Bruynzeel n 46, then continue with Carbothello 675 and 210 and finally Caran D’Ache 300.

(Fig 3) Fade with your fingers. If necessary, repeat the colors again.

Lighten with Carbothello n 205.

Gradually darken with Caran D’Ache 066, 064, 069 and subsequently with Carbothello n 640 and 655.

Lighten with Carbothello 105.

Paint the spots and lighten the tip with Caran D’Ache Chinese White.

Shade with Caran D’Ache n 046.

Fig 4

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Fig 5

Looking at the photo, add reflections with Carbothello n 585 and 575.

Shade again with Caran D’Ache n 408.

Feathers (Figs 6 & 7) Following the direction of the feathers, start from the eye by painting with Carbothello n 435 and n 100 and with Bruynzeel n 94.

Blend the blue feathers with Carbothello 440, 450 and 405.

Add in some places a touch of Caran D’Ache n 631 and Carbothello n 385 and 575.

Lighten the light gray pens with Carbothello n 720.

Delineate feathers lightly with Caran D’Ache n 008.

Fade with your fingers.

Darken as you go up with Carbothello 708 and Caran D’Ache 408.

Fig 6

Working with Carbothello n 585.

Fade with your fingers.

Reinforce feathers with Caran d’Ache Chinese White. (Fig 6) Work under the beak by painting the white feathers with Carbothello n 100.

Shade with Carbothello n 435, 440 and 405.

Outline with Caran D’Ache 408.

Paint the feathers vertically starting from the right with Carbothello n 100.

Shade with Carbothello n 726 and 706.

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Fig 7

Darken more with Caran D’Ache n 408 and 009, in particular where the pens hang from the beak.

Give a touch of Carbothello 385 and 585.

(Fig 7) Now start painting the other white pens with Carbothello n 100.

Paint immediately after the body with Caran D’ache n 009.

Start to shade with Bruynzeel n 94 and Carbothello n 726 and 708.

Darken the feathers below with Carbothello 640 and Caran D’Ache 068.

Shade the central ones lightly with Carbothello n 655.

Give a few touches with Carbothello n 585.

Reinforce shading with Caran D’Ache n 046 and 408.

Strengthen the white parts with Caran D’Ache Chinese White. (Fig 8)

Fig 8

Now let's start painting the feathers on the head with Carbothello n 100.

Fig 9 (following page) Shade between the feathers with Bruynzeel n 94 and continue with Carbothello n 435, Caran D’Ache n 068 and Carbothello n 708.

Blend with your fingers and start working again with the same colors to reinforce the shading.

Light up the tips with Caran D’Ache Chinese White.

Shade where needed with Caran D’Ache 408 and reinforce with 009.

Fig 10 (following page)

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Fig 9

Fig 9

Fig 10

Shade the feathers near the eye with Carbothello n 435, 440, 450 and 405.

Give a touch of Carbothello 585 and 575 and Caran D’Ache 631.

Now we need to paint the central part between the eye and the beak.

We start by making small sections with Carbothello n 100 following the direction.

Overlap Bruynzeel n 94, Carbothello n 435, 575, 210.

Always darken making the upper part with Caran D’Ache and the lower part with 046.

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Blend lightly with your fingers and start working with Carbothello n 100, 205, 570, 440 and 450.

Give a few touches with Caran D’Ache n 631 and strengthen with Chinese White.

Shade the top with Caran D’Ache 009. Fig 11 and 12

Fig 11

Background Paint the background with Pastel Soft Rembrandt 411.5 and darken in some places with 409.5.

To protect your work, place it in a glass frame.

I hope you will enjoy painting this as much as I did!

Happy Painting Elisabetta.

Fig 12

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(datura innoxia)

Original design by Chéryl Poulin www.your-decorative-painting-resource.com 15

One of the interesting things about this plant is that the large trumpet-shaped flowers only open at night. When crushed or bruised, they emit a foul odor, similar to rancid peanut butter.

However, many people find the fragrance of these showy blossoms to be quite pleasant.

Although the plants are lovely, every part of the plant is narcotic and extremely poisonous to people and animals, including your pets! But it is a great specimen to paint!

The tubular part of the flower is referred to as the “corolla”. The calyx is the brownish section below the corolla. And the flower is the white part.

The elegant design can be adapted to any surface.

Surface x 8 x 10 Wood Art Panel, Item #28-29847, available from Cupboard Distributing, https://www.cdwood.com/products/8-x-10-x-1-wood-wall-panel?_pos=15&_sid=59d8ce5f8&_ss=r

Project Supplies: x Basic painting supplies x Tissue paper (optional) Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

Antique Green Black Plum Buttermilk Chartreuse Yellow Desert Cactus Eggshell Espresso Forest Green Lamp (Ebony) Black Midnite Green Moon Yellow Peony Pink Snow Titanium White Teal Mint

Brushes: Dynasty, Black Gold x #6 filbert, Series 206Fil x #12 Shader, Series 206S x #1 liner, Series 206L x 3/4" flat wash, Series 206FW Heinz Jordan x 1/4 Domed round blender Mediums: DecoArt Americana x Multi-Surface Sealer x Dura-Clear Soft Touch Varnish

Preparation Sand the wood, tack off the dust, then apply a coat of sealer using the ¾-inch flat brush. When dry, sand and tack again. Basecoat all over with Lamp Black.

Optional Background Texture Create a lightly textured background, as I have done, by mixing the sealer and Lamp Black, 2:1.

First, generously apply the mix to the front of the panel. Then, while wet, lay down the tissue paper to completely cover. While still wet, apply a topcoat of the sealer mixture, gently smoothing down the tissue while encouraging creases and texture. Work carefully so as not to rip the tissue paper. Allow time to dry completely.

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As you paint, refer to the Color Worksheet, Shading Diagram and Photos

Dark Leaves: Forest Green Light Leaves: Desert Cactus

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Transfer the outline of the entire plant and leaves using white graphite.

Undercoat everything with Buttermilk using the filbert brush. Using the same brush, basecoat as follows: Calyx: Espresso Corolla: Black Plum Flower: White Dark Leaves: Forest Green Light Leaves: Desert Cactus Stems: Espresso Highlighting the Calyx and Corolla: Step 1: Using the domed round (do not wet it), drybrush highlights on the calyx with a mix of Espresso and Terra Cotta (1:1). To the far left, add more highlighting with just Terra Cotta added to the dirty brush. Then add a tch of Buttermilk to the dirty brush for the final highlight.

With the #12 flat, float a highlight using the Espresso and Terra Cotta mix in the pointy section on the right where the calyx meets the corolla.

Use the liner with the same mix to add a thin line to the front edge of the calyx.

Step 2: To the front of the corolla, use the domed round (do not wet it), to drybrush some highlights with a mix of Dark Plum and Peony Pink.

Add a tch more Peony Pink to brighten the highlights in the middle and to the left.

Step 3: Then add a tch of Buttermilk to the dirty brush for the final highlight mainly in the middle.

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Shading the Leaves and Stems Step 4: Using the #12 flat, float shading on the dark leaves with Midnight Green. And use Forest Green to shade the light leaves.

Shade the stems with Forest Green. Deepen the shading with Midnite Green.

Highlighting the Leaves and Stems Step 5: Using the dry domed round brush, dry brush the dark leaves first with Desert Cactus. Then add a touch of Chartreuse Yellow to the dirty brush to brighten the highlight.

Using the domed round, dry brush the light leaves first with a mix of Teal Mint and Buttermilk. Then add a touch of Chartreuse Yellow to the dirty brush to brighten the highlights.

If the highlights seem too bright, apply a wash of Antique Green to tone things down.

When you are happy with the leaves, float some Teal Mint on a few of the petal edges. Refer to the photo for guidance.

Add veins using the liner. For the dark leaves, use Midnight Green. For the light leaves use a mix of Antique Green and Chartreuse.

Use the filbert to dry brush a mix of Terra Cotta and Buttermilk to highlight the middle of the stems.

The Flower Step 6: Use the liner to basecoat the flower “tips” with a mix of Black Plum and Peony Pink.

Thin this mix to apply a wash in the flower center using the filbert.

Float thin washes of Moon Yellow on the edges of the flower with the 12 flat. Then float Black Plum at the base of the flower tips.

Use the liner to highlight the edges of the tips of the flower with a mix of White + Black Plum.

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Step 7: Refer to the shading diagram to shape the folds of the flower using the 12 flat to create soft floats of Eggshell. Highlight the flower with floats of White. Also use the domed round to add dry brush highlights of White on the back section on the flower.

With the liner, and thinned Black Plum, add the two pointy cast shadows.

Go over all shading and highlights as needed.

Finishing Erase all graphite lines. Protect your work with 2-3 coats of Dura-Clear Soft Touch varnish in a sheen of your choice.

Noteworthy Characteristics Datura inoxia commonly called angel’s trumpet, is native to Mexico and Central America. It is a shrubby, sprawling, short-lived, tender perennial that is grown in St. Louis as an annual. It grows 2-3’ tall and sprawls to as much as 3-6’ wide.

Ovate, wavy-margined, dark green leaves (to 8” long) have a downy texture. Single or double, upward-facing trumpets (to 7” long and 4” wide at the mouth) have a sweetly overpowering fragrance. Flowers are cream to pink to lavender, and last one night.

Each flower will unravel in the evening to reveal a fragrant trumpet-shaped bloom that only lasts until noon the following day. Flowers will bloom intermittently from midsummer to frost. Flowers are followed by downy spherical fruit covered with stiff spines, hence the sometimes used, common name of downy thorn apple for this plant.

Plants belong to the nightshade family and all parts are extremely toxic.

Excerpt from http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/

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!

By Sharon Bond “American as Apple Pie!” I started this last year as a line drawing but never got to actually paint it.

Lots of fun techniques in this one (and all easy to do!) I also thought it would do well all year long as your basic ‘country/primitive/Americana’ kitchen or dining room accent! Hope you will enjoy!”

Copyright © 2020 Painted by Me, Sharon B - Photocopying or mechanical reproduction is strictly prohibited.

May be painted for fun or profit, but no mass production.

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Surface: x 12” Grooved Bracket Plaque – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 31-L479 Project Supplies: x Ultra-fine Permanent Black Marker – (Such as an Ultra-fine Sharpie, available at most stores!)

----OR-----x Black PITT Artist Pen, Superfine and/or an Extra Superfine by Faber-Castell (for even finer lines.) (I would suggest two sizes for this project; such as an Ultra-fine Sharpie and also a finer lined marker.) x Ordinary Ruler (Optional but very helpful!) x Scotch’s Magic Tape or Painters Tape x Tim Holtz’s Falling Stars Stencil – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 09-51413 x Tim Holtz’s Plaid Stencil – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 09-56142 x Sandpaper (Fine) x Old toothbrush (or Splatter Brush available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 46-04784 x Ordinary Candle Wax (from a regular tea light or votive candle/unscented is best!) x Ribbon, Twine, Wire or String to create hanger (Optional) Paint: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Antique Maroon x Bleached Sand x Blue Haven x Buttermilk x Cocoa x Honey Brown x Khaki Tan x Lamp Black x Light Avocado x Marigold

x x x x x x x x x

Midnite Blue Milk Chocolate Oyster Beige Rookwood Red Soft Black Tomato Red Traditional Burnt Umber True Blue Warm White

Specialty Items by DecoArt: x Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher Brushes: x Angle Shader ¼” x Angle Shader 3/8” x Flat Shader # 6 x Flat Shader # 10 x Glaze/Wash Brush ¾” x Round # 2 x Script Liner 10/0 Brushes from Cupboard Distributing: x #6 Oval Drybrush – Jo Sonja’s Sure Touch – Item # 03-2010-6 x #8 Oval Drybrush – Jo Sonja’s Sure Touch – Item # 03-2010-8 x #10 Oval Drybrush – Jo Sonja’s Sure Touch – Item # 03-2010-10 x Chris’s SPECTACULAR Stencil Brush – Item # 03-926-4 x Chris’s EPIC 18/0 Script Liner – Item # 03-924-18/0 22

Tip: Anytime during the instructions if I mention to “finely outline” something in Black you can choose whether you want to thin your Black paint and use a liner brush to outline or simply use a Black marker!

Preparation: Basecoat the entire plaque with Khaki Tan and let dry. Once dry, take wax from an old candle and randomly rub streaks of wax up and down each section on the plaque.

Using the grooves as guidelines, basecoat alternating sections with Rookwood Red and Bleached Sand. (No worries if your liness aren’t perfect!) Let dry…

Tip: You do need your plaque to be dry before sanding, however, don’t let it sit dry for too long… The longer the paint sits dry, the harder it will be to sand!* Once dry, sand the entire plaque to reveal some of the Khaki Tan underneath (below the waxed areas).

Once you are finished sanding, take a damp cloth or damp sponge, and wipe down your plaque to remove any loose dust particles and help smooth.

Now you can transfer on your main design – this will also help with placement of your stencils, which we will be doing next! Also, keep in mind if you are using a tape product, such as Scotch’s Magic Tape to hold your stencil in place that it could possible pull up more paint from the background when you go to pull the tape off. (From the areas that were previously waxed).

Great Tip: What I do is to tear off pieces of tape and stick them to my clothes first! - Then I peel the tape off my clothes and use it for the stencils. It’s still sticky enough to hold the stencil in place but it also gives it a layer of ‘lint’ that keeps it from being “so” sticky that it pulls any other paint off!

Stenciling: Position and tape the Plaid stencil across the bottom and stencil with Antique Maroon. (You may need to repeat this stenciling over the Bleached Sand stripes for even coverage – just keep your stencil in place, let dry and stencil again!)

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Next, we will be stenciling the stars. This is quite random, feel free to place them wherever you’d like to help fill in the background! You can choose to stencil as many or as few as you like! Stencil all stars with Warm White. You may need to repeat stenciling over the Rookwood Red stripes.

Once you have finished stenciling, if needed, retrace any outlines that you may have stenciled over.

Painting Instructions: Pie Pan: Basecoat solidly with True Blue and let dry.

Tape around the bottom of the pie pan to protect your stenciled background before we “splatter” the pan. No need to be concerned if the splatter goes onto the apples or the pie crust as we will be painting over these areas later, but feel free to tape them or cover them if you wish.

Using an old toothbrush (pulling your thumb across the bristles) or using the Splattering brush, “splatter or flick” the pie pan in Warm White. Once dry, you can remove your tape!

Let the splatter dry, then shade under the crust, around the apple slice and along the inside edges of the pie pan with Midnite Blue.

Apples: Using Rookwood Red, basecoat the whole apples and the outer layer of the sliced apples, solidly with Rookwood Red. After the basecoat has dried on the whole apples, drybrush them with Tomato Red. Also, drybrush around the tops of the sliced apples. Once dry, highlight all of these areas with Marigold and let dry. Continue to use the same drybrush and add Tomato Red back into the brush to go back and go over the same areas again to help tone down and blend in with the Marigold. Shade with Antique Maroon around the area where the apple meets the stem.

The inside areas of the sliced apples are basecoated with Buttermilk (two coats). Let dry, then drybrush lightly with Warm White. Once this has dried, you can trace on the seed details.

Shade with Honey Brown around the inside edges of the sliced apples and also around the seeds.

Shade again to concentrate the shading more around the seeds.

All apple seeds and stems are based solidly with Traditional Burnt Umber. Highlight all with a fine stroke of Honey Brown.

The leaf on the whole apple is based with Light Avocado. Once dry, drybrush lightly with Marigold.

Finely outline all apples, stems and seeds with Black.

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Banner: Basecoat the large banner with two coats of Oyster Beige and let dry. Drybrush with Bleached Sand. Highlight at the top of the curves with Warm White.

Shade around the banner with Traditional Burnt Umber, concentrating more color in the underside of the folds. Finely outline the banner with Black. The lettering is also done in Black.

I used my Black Ultra-Fine Sharpie for the main letters then filled in the open parts of the letters with tiny Black stripes from an even finer point marker. The star over the “i” is painted solidly with Midnite Blue and dotted with a tiny Bleached Sand dot.

Pie Crust: Basecoat with an equal 50/50 mix of Milk Chocolate and Honey Brown. Let this dry, then apply a second coat of the same mix… don’t worry if it doesn’t match exactly as we will be drybrushing over it! (And no two pie crusts look exactly the same! - ) Once this has dried, drybrush over the entire crust with Cocoa. Continue to use the same brush and lightly drybrush to highlight with Buttermilk. I did go back again (still using the same brush) and lightly drybrush back over the Buttermilk areas with Honey Brown to blend.

Shade around the pie crust edges (top and bottom) with Traditional Burnt Umber.

Once dry, you can trace on the remaining details, then shade under the ‘indentions’ in the crust and around the openings with Traditional Burnt Umber as well.

Paint inside the openings in the crust first with Buttermilk. Shade the right sides of the openings with thinned Tomato Red and let dry. Then shade the left sides with Honey Brown.

Finely outline everything in Black.

Center Stars (“As”) Paint the stars in the center of the plaque with Blue Haven.

Once dry, shade the left side of each star with True Blue. The lettering is done in Black. Finely outline the stars in Black as well. The little ‘teardrop’ accents off to each side of the stars is also done in Black.

Flags: Before starting to paint, I did tape off around the flags to help keep my edges straight and for the protection of the background! (Don’t forget my tip about putting the pieces of tape on your clothes first so it doesn’t pull any of the background paint away!)

Basecoat each flag with Bleached Sand. Once dry, drybrush with Warm White. Once dry, you can trace on your details.

Alternate every other stripe with Rookwood Red. Once dry, use a very fine lined Black marker and your ruler to finely outline the stripes. If needed, you can do touch ups as well. Let dry and remove your tape.

Before painting the flag’s blue patches, I taped around them as well. This is so helpful and a relief too since we don’t have to be so very careful not to accidently paint over the background!

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Basecoat the patches with two coats of True Blue. Once dry, drybrush with Blue Haven; if this seems to bold, simply add some True Blue back into your brush and drybrush over the patches again.

Once the patches have dried, trace on your stars. If you wanted, you could actually use a few stars from the Falling Stars stencil instead, if you’d rather stencil the stars. Paint or stencil the stars with Warm White.

Tape around your flag poles and paint the poles with Soft Black. Once dry and while tape is still in place, drybrush a bit of Milk Chocolate on the poles. When finished you can remove the tape.

Finely outline the rest of the flags, poles, patches and stars with Black.

Edging: To edge around the entire plaque for a unique look, take a round brush and load it heavily with Soft Black. “Roll” your brush along the plaque’s outer edge letting it create a bit of a “jagged” border. (This is a technique I learned from Chris Haughey and I love the look! Thanks Chris!)

Once this has dried, thin some Warm White and finely line a tiny line following the shape/direction your border. Chris’s EPIC Script Liner (18/0) is perfect for this!

Finishing Touches: Once I had finished painting, I decided to shade around the entire design to help it stand out better from the background. I used Traditional Burnt Umber and shaded heavily around the entire design EXCEPT for the stars in the center (‘AS’). Let this dry.

Once everything has dried, we will be ready to seal our project! I simply spray sealed mine with Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher per instructions and let dry. I also added some wire across the top to create a hanger! You could use wire, ribbon, etc…, your choice!

I hope you enjoyed this Americana project!

Thank you!

Sharon B

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2020

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2020

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Original Design by Deb Mishima Something a bit different for me. I decided to experiment with brighter colors, but still needed to add a touch of whimsy. I used 4 different colors of Galaxy Glitter to add some glitz, ‘cause you know, every little fishy needs to feel sparkly and special.

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Surface: x Snow Globe Plaque #31-L657, 11.5” H x 8.25” Cupboard Distributing https://www.cdwood.com/products/snowglobe-plaque?_pos=1&_sid=e946ce7df&_ss=r

Supplies: x Woodgrain Background Stencil #09-19211 from Cupboard Distributing www.cdwoodcom x Flourish Border #31-19302 available from Cupboard Distributing www.cdwood.com x Ball Stylus x White/Grey Transfer Paper x White/Grey Chalk Pencil x Micron Pen 01 x Circle Template Stencil x Ruler x Toothbrush/Splatter Brush x Soft Cloth or Lint Free Paper Towel Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Asphaltum x Baby Blue x Bleached Sand x Buttermilk x Desert Sand x Fawn x Lamp Black x Moon Yellow x Peacock Teal

x Sea Breeze x Snow White x True Blue x True Red x Ultra Blue Deep x Warm Sunset x Warm White x Yellow Ochre Chalky Finish Paint x Timeless

Specialty Products: DecoArt Galaxy Glitter x Aqua Meteor x Clear Ice Comet x Gold Shooting Star x Red Nebula Mediums: x DecoArt All Purpose Spray Sealer Brushes: Dynasty Black Gold x ¼” and ½” Angular Shaders Series 206A x ¼” ½” Flat 206FW x #12 Flat 206S x ¼” Deerfoot 206DF x 10/0 Liner x Micron: x 2/0 Pointed Flat x Assorted Dry Brushes, Mop Brushes and Scumblers 30

Preparation: Do Not Sand MDF Painting Instructions: Background: Basecoat the globe area with Baby Blue. Take a large stipple brush and using Ultra Blue Deep, stipple randomly onto the surface. Repeat this same process with True Blue and Peacock Teal.

Then take a slightly damp cloth and gently wipe over the stipples to soften and slightly blend them. When completely dry, use the Palmer 2” brush and Warm White, softly and randomly drybrush over the surface. With the Flourish Border stencil and Sea Breeze, very faintly stencil onto background. Using an old toothbrush or splatter brush, splatter onto the background with Ultra Blue Deep and then Peacock Teal and finally Warm White.

Transfer on pattern.

Fish: Basecoat the fish, tail and fins with Buttermilk.

To color the body: Shade Yellow Ochre along the top of the fish (excluding from the right eye to the nose), along the nose and bottom of the fish to the tail, and around the outside of the eye (except under the eye) and the left side of the gill.

Highlight Bleached Sand along the head from the right eye to the top of the nose and around the right side of the gill.

Deepen the shading Warm Sunset. Brighten the highlighting with Snow White. Deepen the shading here and there with True Red. Drybrush a little here and there with Moon Yellow, Warm Sunset and Peacock Teal.

Splatter and little Warm Sunset onto the body.

Using a ball stylus, dot the body with True Red, Snow White and Peacock Teal.

Eyes: Basecoat Lamp Black. Softly drybrush Snow White in the center of the eye. Using Snow White, float a C stroke along the left side and place a dot on the right side. With Snow White line the front of the lid where it meets the black.

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Tail and Fins: To create the wispy colors, first add Moon Yellow and Warm Sunset semi-opaquely to the tail and fins, starting at the base and walking out towards the tips. Add a little Peacock Teal here and there.

Shade the tail and fins along the bases first with Warm Sunset and then with True Red. To accentuate the shapes, add gently curving lines here and there with True Red, Peacock Teal, Moon Yellow and lastly Snow White.

Fishing Line and Hook: Using a liner, paint Lamp Black Tag: Basecoat with Bleached Sand. Shade Desert Sand around border. Line the stitching with Fawn. Using the Micron pen, add the wording and the bow.

Base: Basecoat with Chalky Finish, Timeless. Position Wood Grain Background stencil onto base and stencil with Asphaltum. Shade Fawn under the globe, around bubbles, down sides and along bottom walking the color towards the middle and above the lip at the bottom. Highlight with Bleached Sand along the top of the lip. Deepen the shading with Asphaltum. Drybrush in the middle of the base and the lip with Bleached Sand. Drybrush again here and there very softly with Fawn and Snow White.

Bubbles: Basecoat semi-opaquely with Baby Blue. Shade along the right side using a C stroke with Peacock Teal.

Highlight the opposite side with Snow White. Drybrush in the middle with Snow White. Add a little Sea Breeze very softly here and there. Line and dot Snow White.

Finishing Touches: Apply the Galaxy Glitter colors to the coordinating paint colors on the tail and fins. Following manufacturer’s instructions, lightly spray several coats of All-Purpose Sealer allowing each coat to dry completely between each coat.

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Enlarge Line Drawing 132%

NOTE This surface is also available as a 5.75” ornament.

Reduce to 66% for ornament # 31-L646

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Not the Spring we planned for ...

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© 2020 Deb Antonick Designs, Painting with Friends www.paintingwithdeb.com

Surface: x 18" x 5" board #2973 www.bearwithusinc.com Supplies: x Stencil – Pledge Allegiance 09-19171 www.cdwood.com x Standard Acrylic Tools Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Burnt Sienna x Cinnamon Drop x Electric Pink x Indian Turquoise x Lamp Black x Light Buttermilk x Mocha x Napa Red x Orange Flame

x x x x x x x x

Royal Navy Snow “Titanium” White Summer Squash Sunny Day Tangerine Tropical Blue Turquoise Blue Watermelon Slice

Mediums: DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer Ultra-Matte Varnish Brushes: available from www.thebrushguys.com Dynasty Black Gold (206 Series) x #4, #6, #8, ¾” Flat shaders x 3/8” or ½” Angle Shaders x #8 Wave Filbert Brush 206WAVFIL or # #10 Flat Wave 206WV x #2 Fandango brush 206FD x 10/0 or 5/0 Script liner 206SL x #1 Round 206R x 5/8” Mop Brush (Decorator Series 400) x ½” Dynasty Stencil Pro brush PREPARATION: Basecoat the board with DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer. Let dry. Sand lightly.

Basecoat with Lamp Black. Let dry.

Stencil the background with the “Pledge of Allegiance” stencil words with Summer Squash.

When dry, spatter the entire background with Watermelon Slice, Turquoise Blue, Summer Squash and finish with Light Buttermilk. Let dry.

Transfer on the design.

PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS: Gnome Hat: Undercoat the hat with Light Buttermilk (or you can use White Gesso.)

Basecoat the red stripes with Watermelon Slice. Shade with Cinnamon Drop.

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Float highlights with Electric Pink. Deepen shading with Napa Red. Touch up the white stripes with Light Buttermilk. Shade with Indian Turquoise. Highlight with Snow Titanium White.

Basecoat the blue part of the hat with Turquoise Blue.

Stencil the Stars from the “Pledge Allegiance” stencil with Light Buttermilk.

Shade the hat with Tropical Blue. Float the highlights with Indian Turquoise. Deepen shading with Royal Navy.

Finish the pom pom using the same Red, White and Blue color palette. Line the bow with Light Buttermilk.

Stars: Basecoat with Summer Squash. Shade with Tangerine. Highlight with Sunny Day. Deepen shading with Orange Flame. Brighten highlights with Light Buttermilk.

Beard: (See photos) Basecoat the beard with Tropical Blue using the Wave Brush. I like the wispy ends this brush creates and it helps you to create a beard like pattern for the hairs.

Note: When using the Wave brush, water the paint down as you would for the liner brush.

Paint the first beard layer with Turquoise Blue.

Shade under the nose and mustache with Lamp Black.

Paint another layer with a 1:1 brush mix of Turquoise Blue and Light Buttermilk.

Paint another beard layer with Light Buttermilk, this time using the #2 Fandango for a wispier look.

Finish the beard layers with the #2 Fandango as follows: Light Buttermilk mixed 1:1 with Snow “Titanium “ White, then with just Snow Titanium White. *Finish the beard after painting the Rockets design.

Shade softly around the design with Lamp Black.

Nose and Arms: Paint the nose and arms with Mocha. Shade with Mocha mixed with a touch of Burnt Sienna.

Float the highlight on the top with Light Buttermilk. Deepen shading with Burnt Sienna.

Mittens, Rockets and Sparklers: Trace on the hands and rockets design.

Everything Blue – Same as Blue on the Hat. Everything Red – Same as Red stripes on the Hat. Everything White – Same as White stripes on Hat. Blue stars are Turquoise Blue Red, White and Blue liner stripes are done with Watermelon Slice, Tropical Blue and Light Buttermilk.

Red and Blue strokes under the rockets are pulled with the 5/0 liner from the outside towards the base of the rockets using Watermelon Slice, Turquoise Blue and Indian Turquoise.

Finish the Beard: Stroke in hairs with the liner brush and Snow “Titanium “ White, pulling from the tips of the beard inward. Be sure to use some of these strokes to set the arms back under the hairs.

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Finishing: Outline as desired with Lamp Black. Varnish with Ultra-Matte Varnish.

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By Susan V. Cochrane Dust off your patriotism and hang this primitive style sign on your proudest door!

Surface x Rusty Sign, 12” x 5.5”Item No. 200117, www.paintersparadise.com Supplies: x Usual Acrylic Tools x Eraser x Palette Paper (Waxed) x Paper Towels x Tracing Paper x Water Container x White and Gray Graphite Paper

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Palette: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Antique Gold x Burnt Umber x Buttermilk x Lamp Black x Napa Red x Neutral Grey x Wedgewood Blue x Williamsburg Blue

Mediums: DecoArt Americana x Sealer/Finisher (Matte)

Brushes: Royal & Langnickel Majestic Paintbrushes x ½”, 5/8” Angular Shaders (R4160) x 4, 6, 8 Filberts (Series R41700) x 0 Liners (Series R4595) x 10, 12, 4 Shaders (Series R4150) General Instructions: Use small amounts of paint.

All floats are applied with a double loaded brush.

Dry thoroughly between all steps.

Erase transfer lines as you go.

Painting: Transfer the letters, the top edge of the flag and the union.

Flag: Paint the union with Wedgewood Blue. Paint the remaining area with Buttermilk. Transfer the individual stripes and the stars. Base coat the stars with Buttermilk and the red stripes with Napa Red. Union: Float Burnt Umber around the outside edges of both stars. Dry brush Antique Gold more or less in the center areas of both stars. Dry brush Wedgewood Blue on the largest star on the right hand side of the top point and on the left hand bottom corner edge area.

Float Williamsburg Blue on the top and right edges of the union. Transfer and paint the stitching with Lamp Black. Dry brush over each stitch with Buttermilk using the 0 Liner.

Napa Red Stripes: Dry brush Buttermilk on the areas marked xxx on the pattern. Float Buttermilk on the right edge of the fold.

Buttermilk Stripes: Dry brush Antique Gold on the areas marked zzz on the pattern.

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Float Wedgewood Blue to tint on areas marked ooo on the pattern.

Statue of Liberty Head: Transfer the outside edges and base coat entirely with Neutral Grey. There is a band on top and below the set of windows. Transfer these bands and the windows. Paint the windows with Lamp Black. Note: there are vertical sections between each window.

Float Lamp Black to shade the base of the points next to the top band, on the window glass next to the top band and on the ‘hair’ part next to the lower band.

Float Wedgewood Blue to tint the points on the left and right edges.

Dry brush Buttermilk in the center middle area of the points and on the top and bottom bands.

Float Buttermilk just inside the left side edges of each window. Paint a line on the right edges next to each vertical section. Apply a light float of Lamp Black across the top of all windows and vertical sections right next to the lower edge of the top band.

Float Burnt Umber to shade all stripes next to the union, on the shaded side of the fold and next to the points and top band of the Liberty head.

Believe: Paint the letters with Buttermilk. Randomly accent with dry brush applications of Burnt Umber and Antique Gold.

Finishing: Outline the top edge of the entire flag with Lamp Black.

Following manufacturer’s instructions, spray with the Sealer/Finisher.

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Betsy Ross Original Design by Sharon Cook She is simply the stuff of legends, that sassy stitcher named Betsy Ross! Credited for sewing our country’s first American flag, I could not find many images of her, so I decided to paint my own version of what Betsy may have looked like. Although I don’t claim to be a historian with many details about Betsy, in my imagination she is a happy and creative person. I hope my rendition brings you a smile!

Betsy was designed to be a companion to Spangled Sam, another design of mine published in the June 2016 edition of the Pixelated Palette. Just leave the lettering off Sam’s hat and omit the red and black glitter and you’ll have the perfect duo for your summer décor.

Pleasant patriotic painting to all!

Surface: x Betsy Ross Plaque; 11 5/8” x 7 1/8” size; Item 31-L714; from Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com Project Supplies x Stylus x Grey and white transfer paper x Tracing paper x Wire or thin ribbon for hanging Betsy (optional) x Fine grit sandpaper, sanding disk, or sanding sponge Brushes: Royal & Langnickel x Zen, Z73WO, Oval Wash, Size 3/4” x Majestic Script Liner, R4585, Size 10/0 x Aqualon Angular, 2160, Size 1/2” and ¾” x Aqualon Round, R2250, Size 8 x Zen, Z83SC, Soft Scrubber, Size 8 Chris Haughey: Chris’s Epic 924 Script Liner, Size 18/0, https://www.cdwood.com/products/epic-18-0-script-liner Dynasty Brush: Stencil Pro Brushes, Sizes 1/2” and 5/8”. https://www.thebrushguys.com/cgi-bin/sc-v4/proddisp.pl?client=firesaleguys&catid= 429&PRID=6475

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Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Burlap x Burnt Umber x Coral Blush x Coral Shell x Cotton Candy x Deep Midnight Blue x Foliage Green x Grey Sky x Grey Storm x Indian Turquoise x Irish Moss x Light Buttermilk x Lamp (Ebony) Black

x Milk Chocolate x Ocean Blue x Orange Flame x Royal Navy x Slate Grey x Sunny Day x Terra Coral x Tuscan Red x Vintage Pink x Warm White x Watermelon Slice x White Peach Glamour Dust x Ice Crystal

Mediums: DecoArt Americana x Dura-Clear Matte Varnish x Multi-Purpose Sealer Preparation This MDF plaque requires no sanding. Apply Multi-purpose Sealer to the front, sides, and back of plaque and let dry thoroughly.

Painting Instructions Transfer the main lines for the hat, face, KDLU neck, dress, hands, lace, tie on dress, and flag.

Basecoats: Cotton Candy/Coral Shell/Milk Chocolate: (50% Cotton Candy/50% Coral Shell/Drop or two of Milk Chocolate) Base face, neck, and hands.

Light Buttermilk: Base hat, bird’s hat, center of choker, white stripes on flag, lace on dress, and tie on dress.

Indian Turquoise: Base dress and bird.

Watermelon Slice: Base red stripes on flag; base bow and trim on hat; base tiny bow and trim on bird’s hat.

Royal Navy: Base choker band and blue field on flag.

Lamp (Ebony) Black: Create a wash by mixing 85% water with 10% Lamp (Ebony) Black paint; mix well. Base area below the head and above the shoulders; base small area in mouth (between the lips).

Betsy’s Face and Hands: White Peach/Light Buttermilk: Lightly stipple, then dry brush the center of the face and hands. Repeat to brighten highlights by dry brushing across the nose, on sides of face next to the eyes, on chin, sides of face, tops of hands, and by separations in fingers. Sheerly float chin, tops of hands and on one side of the separation between the fingers.

Vintage Pink: Shade around face, around eyes, around sides and bottom of nose, below mouth, on neck below chin, on sides of neck, on neck next to dress, on bottom and sides of

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hands, and between finger separations (on the opposite side of the highlighted areas). Shade on face below hat and next to her curly hair. Lightly dry brush cheeks.

Vintage Pink/Drop or Two of Milk Chocolate: Very sheerly float on face below hat, on neck below chin, on body next to dress, on bottom of hands, and lightly over the Vintage Pink shading on the fingers.

Terra Coral/Coral Blush: (Equal mixture) Lightly dry brush cheeks. Add a tiny amount of Watermelon Slice to the brush and dry brush the center of the cheeks.

Terra Coral/Watermelon Slice: (Equal mixture) Base lips.

Tuscan Red: Lightly and thinly float bottom of upper and lower lip to shade.

Warm White: Base eyes.

Foliage Green/Ocean Blue: (Equal mixture) Thin slightly with water to make a wash; base iris in eyes.

Irish Moss/Royal Navy: (Equal mixture) Very thinly line spoke-like lines in iris. Float outside edge of iris.

Lamp (Ebony) Black: Base pupils in eyes; stroke eyebrows.

Warm White: Base center of pupils. Stroke outer edges of iris.

Hat, Bow and Trim, and Bird: Warm White: Stipple, then dry brush top and center area of hat and bird’s hat. Float the portions of the upper hat that “poof” out. Float top of bird’s hat.

Burlap: Dry brush shading on the hat, next to the bow and trim, on side edges, and on the underneath portion of the hat (above her shoulders). Float over dry brushing in those areas.

Sheerly float all the hat gathers and wrinkles in Betsy’s hat and the bird’s hat.

Milk Chocolate: Thin paint slightly with water. Very lightly float over the darkest Burlap shading on the hat.

Indian Turquoise/Warm White: (Equal mixture) Dry brush bird’s head, body, and tail.

Repeat to brighten.

Indian Turquoise/Ocean Blue: (Equal mixture) Float around bird’s head, body, tail, and wings.

Ocean Blue/Royal Navy: (67% Ocean Blue/33% Royal Navy mixture) Float to deepen shading on bird.

Terra Coral: Very lightly dry brush tummy and cheeks on bird. Add a touch of Coral Blush to the brush and brighten dry brushing.

Sunny Day: Base beak and bird’s legs.

Warm White: Float top of beak to highlight; float ends of bird’s “toes”.

Sunny Day/Coral Blush: (Equal mixture) Float to shade bottom of beak; shade bird’s legs where they come from the body.

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Orange Flame: Dry brush center and edges of bow. Float outer edges and top of bow. Float along top of trim.

Tuscan Red: Float to shade bow and trim.

Choker: Ocean Blue: Dry brush center of blue area of choker band.

Deep Midnight Blue: Float the ends of the choker next to the oval and by her hair.

Light Buttermilk: Base oval on choker.

Burlap: Float outside edge of Light Buttermilk oval.

Watermelon Slice: Base heart in choker.

Orange Flame: Float top of heart in choker.

Tuscan Red: Float bottom of heart in choker.

Dress, Lace, and Tie on Dress: Indian Blue/Warm White: (Equal mixture) Stipple, then dry brush center of collar and dress. Repeat again in center of collar to brighten.

Indian Turquoise/Ocean Blue: (Equal mixture) Float to shade around collar, below lace, and on dress around tie, hands, and flag.

Irish Moss: Line flower stems on collar.

Watermelon Slice: Dot oblong red flowers on collar using a very large stylus or the end of a small liner brush.

Coral Blush: Dot the top portion of each red flower.

Light Buttermilk: Dot the large dots between the red flowers. Place a tiny dot on the top of each red flower.

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Royal Navy: Dot the tiny dots that surround the large Light Buttermilk dots and dot a few tiny dots randomly on the collar and dress.

Ocean Blue/Royal Blue: (Equal mixture) Float to shade around edges of collar and dress.

Warm White: Dry brush the center of the tie. Float the top of the knot in the center of the tie and on the top edges of the ties. Float the bottom edges of the lace.

Burlap: Dry brush, then float to shade the lace next to the collar. Shade the tie on the dress next to the center knot, and along the bottom of the knot.

Milk Chocolate: Thin slightly with water and float to deepen the darkest shading on the lace and tie.

Betsy’s Flag Ocean Blue: Stipple, then dry brush the center of the blue field on the flag. Add a bit of Indian Turquoise and dry brush the center area again to brighten highlights.

Deep Midnight Blue: Float around the outer edge of the blue field to shade.

Sunny Day: Base the stars on the blue field.

Warm White: Dry brush center area of each white stripes. Float tops of yellow stars on the blue field.

Burlap: Dry brush the ends of the white stripes on flag. Float over the dry brush to deepen the shading.

Milk Chocolate: Thin slightly with water and shade bottom of yellow stars and ends of white stripes on flag.

Orange Flame: Dry brush center of red stripes on flag.

Tuscan Red: Dry brush ends of the red stripes on flag. Float over dry brushing to deepen shading.

Hair Transfer the lines for the hair.

Sunny Day: Base hair.

Warm White: Float to highlight the top portions of the curls that are on the top edges of the strands, and on the edges of the curls that are furthest away from her face.

Sunny Day/Coral Blush/Milk Chocolate: (Equal mixture) Float on hair where it comes from under the hat, and on the strands that OD\ beneath the strands on top. Float the bottom of each hair strand, and on the bottom sides of each curl.

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Milk Chocolate: Thin slightly with water and float over the shaded areas of the hair to deepen shading. Line around the edge of each hair strand. Line each hair strand with two or three thin lines to create a bit of interest. Note that these lines do not need to be perfectly straight or unbroken. They also do not need to be the same width. The more varied they are, the more interesting they are.

Lining Lamp (Ebony) Black: Thin paint slightly with water and use the 18/0 liner brush to outline the main elements of the design, excluding the strands of hair. For the eyes, line the iris first, then the outer edge of the eye, then stroke the eyelashes. It is not necessary to outline the outer edges of the wood, but you may do so, if desired.

For the glasses, use undiluted Lamp (Ebony) Black to line the frames of the glasses.

Finishing Instructions: Glamour Dust Ice Crystal: Base generously over the red bow and hat trim, eye glass frames, oval on choker, and stars on flag.

Dura-Clear Matte Varnish: After the Glamour Dust has thoroughly dried, varnish the top, sides, and back of the plaque.

If desired, attach a thin ribbon or wire to hang Betsy Ross from. Enjoy!

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Special Note about painting Spangled Sam Spangled Sam, was first published in the June 2016 edition of the Pixelated Palette, https://thepixelatedpalette.com/products/june-2016-issuedownload?_pos=1&_sid=b77d9acab&_ss=r.

It was later released as an e-pattern packet in my Etsy shop, Sharon Cook Creations, https://www.etsy.com/listing/513997185/spangled-sam-epattern-packet-by-sharon..

The cutout plaque for Spangled Sam, item #31-L443, is available at Cupboard Distributing, https://www.cdwood.com/products/spangled-sam-plaque?_pos=1&_sid=06d05c02b&_ss=r If you choose to paint Spangled Sam as a companion to Betsy Ross, please note that the DecoArt color of Dusty Rose (DA025) has been discontinued. It can be substituted by a mixture of Cotton Candy/Coral Shell/Milk Chocolate: (50% Cotton Candy/50% Coral Shell/Drop or two of Milk Chocolate) mixture.

Also, the DecoArt color of Hi-Lite Flesh (DA024) used in the Spangled Sam design is now called White Peach.

Copyright Notice: © Copyright 2020 Sharon R. Cook. All rights reserved under Pan American and international copyright conventions. This pattern may be hand copied as necessary for the purpose of transferring the design for painting. Whether this pattern is purchased as part of an electronic magazine or as a paper packet or electronic-packet, you may not resell this design in any manner, nor make copies of either for resale, to give away, or to use in teaching classes or workshops without express written consent from Sharon R. Cook and/or the owners of this electronic magazine (see Note to Teachers/Shop Owners below). You may not print the colored images for the purpose of decoupaging to a surface, nor may you sell copies of the printouts from this publication in any format. The designs may not be used as web graphics. The projects created from the patterns in this packet may be personally painted by the purchaser for fun or for sale (i.e. at local craft shows, or internet auctions such as eBay, and on their own websites or photo sites), although if shown on the internet, you must provide credit to Sharon R. Cook as the designer in your description. Manufacturing the finished product for mass marketing in national gift shows and national gift publications is prohibited. No mechanical, electronic, digital or any other method of reproduction or distribution of this pattern, line drawing, and/or instructions is authorized. Any use other than described herein is prohibited without the express written consent of the designer and author. Disclaimer: The information in this pattern packet is presented to you in good faith. Since the author/designer has no control over the physical conditions surrounding the application of the information presented, results cannot be guaranteed.

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Original Design by Sunny Tonini sunny@artisanarie.com

Kitchen towels are always a great way to change up your kitchen decor. This margarita drink design - complete with a fun, glittery salted rim, and juicy citrus - adds that tropical, summery vibe that reminds us of fun vacations, lazy summers and relaxing by the beach. Cheers!

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Surface: x Aunt Martha’s 100% Cotton White Flour Sack Towel 28” x 28” (sizes vary) – available at JoAnn.com, Walmart, Amazon. You may also adapt this design to other surfaces of your choice.

Project Supplies: x Standard Acrylic Painting Tools x Transfer or Graphite Paper x Ball Stylus x Fabric Pen (Disappearing/Washable Ink) Paints: DecoArt SoSoft Fabric Paints x Bright Avocado x Bright Yellow x Brown x Cadmium Orange x Cadmium Yellow x Christmas Green x Clear Ice Glitter x Fuchsia

x x x

9” x 12” White Foam Core Board Repositionable Spray Adhesive Masking Tape

x x x x x x x x

Green Apple Lamp Black Neon Yellow Pineapple Red Pepper Santa Red Tangerine White

Brushes: Royal & Langnickel x Soft Grip Short Shader SG155 x #4, Stencil Brush 1113 – 1/4” x Silver (Art Sherpa) Round 4100S #1 Preparation: Before painting on a fabric item, prewash it on cold water with laundry detergent only – this removes all starch, sizing, marks, or spots from the fabric. This will also pre-shrink the fabric, so plan accordingly, taking this into account if cutting fabric for your project. Do not use any fabric softener or dryer sheets. Dry the fabric completely and iron it smooth to get an even surface.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, spray the board evenly with the repositionable adhesive, and let it dry/rest for about 5 minutes.

Find the towel’s center and mark it with the fabric pen. Position your fabric on the board, centering the area to be painted, and smooth it out with your hands. This helps keep the fabric taut and in place while you paint. Remove the fabric pen’s mark.

Fold any remaining fabric around the board and tape it to the back with masking tape.

Transfer the design onto tracing paper. Position it on the fabric and secure the edges with masking tape. Carefully place the transfer/graphite paper underneath the design and trace it with a stylus. Try not to move the transfer paper around too much to avoid smudges on the fabric. You are now ready to paint!

Painting Instructions: Sunny’s Wet on Wet Technique: My wet on wet technique consists of base coating, shading and sometimes highlighting an area or element while the paint is still wet. First you put down the base coat, then immediately start adding layers of shading colors and blending them in by lightly 57

scrubbing the fabric with the brush upright. There is an “open time” while the paint is wet that you can work on the colors until you get the desired effect. After the paint is dry to the touch, you can still shade and highlight, but then it becomes a dry rubbing technique, where you work with much smaller amounts of paint in the brush to avoid lifting up the previous color layers. I mostly use wet on wet as the main technique, and dry brushing as a touch up or to add finishing touches and highlights that I want to stand out, since these don’t get absorbed by the fabric as much as the base layers.

Note: These steps are done using a wet on wet technique.

Painting Tips: x If you don’t have the brushes used here, use any brush you have that is firm and can withstand rubbing onto the fabric. x Whenever you rinse your brush, make sure you dry it well to remove excess water! x Always load the brush with small amounts of paint (just enough to cover and fill the fabric’s fibers) and build up layer by layer. Too much paint can saturate the fabric. x It’s best to work in sections so the paint doesn’t dry while you work.

Orange: Peel: Using the #4 short shader, apply Cadmium Yellow to the orange peel’s center to create a highlight area, then fill in the rest with Tangerine. Shade the darker areas with Cadmium Orange, followed by a small amount of Red Pepper.

Pith: With the same brush, basecoat the pith with Pineapple. With the brush upright on the chisel edge and the same color, create the divisions between the orange’s segments. Corner load the brush with a tiny bit of Cadmium Orange and create the center core. Let dry.

Orange Segments: With the #4 short shader up on the chisel edge, apply Neon Yellow to each segment’s center, fill in the rest with Bright Yellow. Corner load a tiny bit of Tangerine and shade both ends of each segment following its shape. With the brush upright, apply the paint and then sweep it towards the segment’s center.

Add a drop or two of water to a small amount of Cadmium Orange until the paint is a bit looser but not watery. Load the #1 round and outline the pith. With the same brush, add a few irregular dots all around the outer edge.

Corner load the #4 short shader with a small amount of White and tap it all over the pith (and a little bit between the segments too) to highlight it.

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Limes: Note: For the steps below, prepare some of the following mixes: Mix 1: Green Apple + Bright Avocado (2:1) Mix 2: Christmas Green + Lamp Black (2:1) Whole Lime: Using the 3/16” stencil brush, basecoat the lemon’s center with Neon Yellow. Use the #4 short shader and Mix 1 to fill in the rest up to the edges, blending each color well into each other but keeping the center light and bright. With the same brush, shade with Bright Avocado and deepen the shade with a tiny bit of Mix 2.

Lime Slice: With the #1 round, basecoat the pith and the segments’ divisions with White. Add a drop or two of water to some Bright Avocado to loosen it up a bit and with the same brush paint the peel, adding a few irregular dots over the White. Add a drop or two of water to some of the Mix 2 and outline the slice.

With the #4 short shader up on the chisel edge, apply Neon Yellow to each segment’s center, fill in the rest with Mix 1. Corner load a tiny bit of Bright Avocado and shade both ends of each segment following its shape. With the brush upright, apply the paint and then sweep it towards the segment’s center. Let dry a couple of minutes. Dilute some White with a drop of water and using the #1 round, add a few highlights to each segment.

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Lime Quarter: Painted following the same steps as for the slice.

Leaf and Blossom: Leaf: Using the #4 short shader and Mix 1, basecoat the leaf where you want your lighter values, and fill in the rest with Bright Avocado. With the same brush, shade the dark areas with Mix 2. Follow the leaf’s shape to create form and the center vein. Load a small amount of White on the same brush and with short movements following the leaf’s shape, pull some highlights from the top edge in, and from the center vein out, being careful not to get too close to the dark areas.

Blossom: With the #4 short shader and Fuchsia, basecoat the blossoms. Shade with Santa Red and highlight with White.

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Margarita Glass:

Using the ¼” stencil brush and Neon Yellow, basecoat the center of the glass’ lower and upper sections and fill in the rest with Mix 1 (switch to the #4 short shader as you get closer to the edges).

Shade with Bright Avocado as shown in the pictures.

With the #4 short shader, apply Neon Yellow to the liquid’s surface outer edges and fill in the rest with Mix 1. Shade with Bright Avocado according to the pictures. Let dry.

Stem: Use the #4 short shader and White to basecoat the glass’ stem and base. Mix a small amount of White + Lamp Black (5:1).

Corner load the brush with this mix and shade both sides of the stem as well as the base. Wipe the brush, corner load a small amount of Tangerine and add some color to the stem’s left side. Wipe the brush and repeat the process on the right side with some Bright Avocado. Let dry.

Umbrella: Using the #4 short shader basecoat the umbrella’s stick with Cadmium Yellow, shade it with Brown and highlight it with White. I placed some masking tape against the right edge to get a clean line. Use the same brush to apply Tangerine to the umbrella’s lower 1/3. Follow with Cadmium Orange in the next 1/3 and finish it up with Red Pepper for an Ombre effect. Make sure to blend the colors well with the brush upright.

Corner load a bit of Santa Red and shade the uppermost area. Wipe the brush, load it with some Cadmium Yellow plus a bit of White and holding the brush on the chisel edge, apply some highlights to the lower edges. Add a drop of water to some Santa Red to loosen it up and with the #1 round, outline the umbrella’s ribs.

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Rim and Transparency: Add a couple drops of water to the White + Lamp Black Mix to loosen it up a bit and with the #1 round apply the color to the glass’ rim. Load the 1/4" stencil brush with some of the same color, remove the excess on a paper towel, and liglty tap it over the rim to create the effect of salt. Let dry a couple of minutes, clean the stencil brush, load it with some White. Remove the excess and tap it lightly over the gray to create highlights.

Corner load the #4 short shader with some White and apply a thin layer of paint all aroung the sides and bottom of the glass. Apply a little bit extra paint at the glass’ very bottom (where it meets the stem). Load the same brush with some White across its bristles, remove some of the excess on a paper towel (not too much) and place the bristles just under the rim. Drag the paint down and then lift the brush forming a wide “C” and following the glass’ shape, fading the paint as you go down.

Repeat this step a few times to build up the color until you get a somewhat opaque coverage. Do the same thing to the glass’ lower part.

Lettering: Transfer the lettering to the fabric. Using the #1 round, basecoat the letters with Apple Green and shade the bottom 1/2 of each letter with Bright Avocado. If your paint is too thick, add a drop of water to each color so that the paint is a bit looser, but not watery. If you’re unsure, try it out first on a fabric scrap.

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Details and Finishing Touches: Before adding the finishing touches, make sure the paint is dry to the touch. Apply small amounts of paint using the corner of the brush.

Applying the glitter:

There are a couple of ways you can apply the glitter to the salted rim.

You can load the 1/4" stencil brush with the Clear Ice Glitter and tap it all over the rim.

You can also dip the corner of your shader brush into the glitter and tap it to apply. Either way you choose, make sure the previous layer is dry to avoid lifting and removing the glitter as you tap the brush over it. Repeat as necessary for maximum sparkle!

As the paint dries and is absorbed by the fabric, you may see areas that need additional shading or highlighting. Feel free to touch it up.

Your painting is ready! Remove the cardboard and let it dry for 72 hours.

Washing Instructions: After 72 hours, you can wash your towel in the washer with warm water and regular detergent, along with other light items, just don’t add bleach.

Put it in the dryer, and after it comes out you can iron it – on the back – with a regular cotton setting to remove wrinkles.

I would love to share my other hand painted designs with you! Please visit my Etsy shop at https://www.etsy.com/shop/Artisanarie

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Freedom Sam

By Sandy LeFlore, Just Fine Designs ©2020 Does this guy look just a tad bit familiar? Maybe the eyes or the hair reminds you of someone you’ve seen in the pages of this publication before. Could it be he reminds you of Santa maybe? Well then, you’d be right! This is Santa’s younger brother Sam. And just like his older brother he brings gifts too.

His are the gifts of Freedom, Liberty, Protection, Independence, the Ability to Speak and Act Freely and so much more. As you spend time creating this piece may you be reminded of your Freedoms and the men and women who have and are fighting to make them available to you. God bless you and God bless this great country.

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Surface x 13” x 7” Plaque with Oval and Ribbon Overlay (#SL-065) available Palette and Sawdust, 401 Smoky Ln., Caldwell, Idaho 83607 (208) 459-2380 www.paletteandsawdust.com Project Supplies x Text Background Tissue available from Just Fine Designs x Punchinello available from Just Fine Designs x 5/8” Star Stencil (any brand will do) x Pledge of Allegiance Stencil (09-19171) available from Cupboard Distributing x Stylus x DecoArt Decou-Page Medium – Matte x Soft Cloth or Paper Towel x Emery Board x Spray Varnish of choice DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Black Plum x Bleached Sand x Burnt Umber x Cactus Flower x Coral Shell x Country Red x Crisp Blue x Dried Clay

x x x x x x x

Fawn Golden Straw Lamp Black Royal Navy Slate Grey Soft Black Warm White

Royal/Langnickel Brushes x L95005 Royal Sable Short Round- Size 12 for Dry Brushing x R2700 Aqualon Flat Shader – ½” x R2595 Aqualon Liner - #1 x R930 Royal Filbert Comb – ¼”

Preparation: Apply the Text Background Tissue to the back plaque using the DecoArt Decou-Page Matte Medium. Don’t apply the decoupage too thickly. You only need a thin layer to adhere the tissue to the plaque. Once the decoupage is dry you can use the emery board to sand the excess tissue from the edges of the plaque. Sand the tissue covered plaque slightly to rough it up a bit so your pattern will be easier to apply.

Mark off the oval shape of the frame, making sure to go just inside the edge of the oval, so that you don’t paint in the center of the oval.

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Painting the Design: Left Side/Starfield: Paint with a light wash of Royal Navy. You want to be able to see the text tissue in the background, so not too dark. Let this dry. Using the star side of the “Pledge of Allegiance” stencil, add the stars with Warm White. Dry brush highlight through the center of the star field with Warm White. Float shading around all sides with Royal Navy.

Right Side/Stripes: Paint the white stripes with a wash of Warm White. The red stripes are a wash of Country Red. Float shading on the red stripes with Country Red. Float shading on the white stripes with Royal Navy. Dry brush highlighting through the center of the striped area with Warm White.

Antiquing the Board: Using a soft cloth or soft paper towel, lightly moistened (hardly wet at all or you’ll wipe the tissue paper off), pick up some Burnt Umber and then gently rub it over the entire plaque…stars, stripes and center oval.

Float shading around the edges of the star field and the stripes, including next to the oval, with Burnt Umber. Line the stitches on the stripes and around the outside edges of the star field with thinned Soft Black.

Line a little highlight here and there on the stitches with thinned Warm White. Using a piece of Punchinello as your stencil add a few random clusters of dots to the star field and the stripes with Warm White.

Stenciling the Words on the Stripe Side: Using the word side of the “Pledge of Allegiance” stencil, choosing whatever portion of the wording that you’d like, add the lettering with Soft Black. I went back and filled in the “bridge” (the cutout space on letters like the “l” and “g”) so it was more like I painted the lettering than stenciled it.

Apply the Pattern to the Inside of the Oval.

With Burnt Umber, float shading around Sam, his hat, his hair, and his beard.

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Face: Paint with Coral Shell. Apply the pattern for the eyes and nose. Dry brush highlighting with Warm White. Float shading with Dried Clay. With Country Red, very well blended out, float color onto the cheeks, the bottom of the lip and in the bottom of the nose. Just a hint of color, not a full-strength float. Float highlighting across the top of the nose with Warm White. Paint the eyes and inside the mouth with Lamp Black. Line a shadow above each eye with a wash of Dried Clay. Paint a crescent shaped stroke in the bottom of each eye with Crisp Blue. Line a highlight on this stroke with Crisp Blue plus Warm White. Line a brighter highlight on this stroke and in the black part of the eyes with Warm White. Line the eyelashes with thinned Lamp Black. Line some wrinkles at the corner of the eyes with thinned Dried Clay. Line a highlight on the wrinkles with Warm White.

Tap on the eyebrows with Warm White.

Hat: Paint the brim with Country Red. Dry brush highlighting with Cactus Flower. Float shading inside the brim, where it goes around the back of his head, with Black Plum. Float Black Plum on the outside edges of the brim also. Deepen the shading inside the brim with floats of Soft Black.

Paint the top of the hat with Warm White. Paint the stripes with Country Red. Let these dry completely and then dry brush Warm White in the center of the hat, across all the stripes. With Black Plum, float shading on all four edges of the top of the hat and across all stripes.

Paint the hat band with Royal Navy. Dry brush highlight with Crisp Blue. Dry brush brighter highlighting with Crisp Blue plus Warm White. Float shading with Soft Black. Paint the star (or stencil it) with Golden Straw. Dry brush a bit of a Warm White highlight in the center of the star.

Beard, Hair and Moustache: Paint with Slate Grey. Using your ¼” Filbert Comb brush and thinned Fawn, stroke on the first layer or two of the hair and beard (not the moustache yet).

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Use this layer to get used to the brush and to figure out if your hair is going to be straight or wavy).

Let this dry and then add on the next few layers, again with the Filbert Comb brush, with thinned Warm White. Don’t try to hurry it or you’ll get mush. Make sure that you are stroking hair beyond the edges of the grey paint and pulling some from the sides of his face and his cheeks. Once you get the hair and the beard to a point that you’re basically happy with it, STOP. You can always go back and add more hair later.

Clean up the moustache area with a quick coat of Slate Grey so you can see the shape better. Float shading on the hair under the hat brim, above and below the moustache and under the lip with a mix of Crisp Blue plus Burnt Umber. (More brown than blue.) With the Filbert Comb and thinned Fawn, stroke on the moustache hair. Let this dry completely before moving on or you will end up with mush. Stroke on the next few layers with Warm White. Float shading under the nose, on the moustache, with the blue/brown mixture.

Oval Portion of the Overlay: Paint with Royal Navy. Dry brush highlighting with Crisp Blue.

Dry brush brighter highlighting with Crisp Blue plus Warm White. Float shading on the oval frame, above and below the banner, with Soft Black.

Banner: Paint with Bleached Sand. Dry brush highlighting with Warm White. Float shading with Burnt Umber. Deepen shading on the tips of the banner and in the folded sections with floats of Soft Black. Using your ¼” Filbert Comb add some streaking across the banner with thinned Burnt Umber. If necessary, you could streak a little more Warm White across the banner also.

With a liner brush and thinned Burnt Umber add a few more wrinkles and creases across the banner.

Line the stripes at the top and bottom of the banner with Country Red. Line a highlight on each stripe with Cactus Flower. Line shading with Black Plum. Paint or stencil the stars with Golden Straw. Float a highlight in the top of each star with Warm White. Float a touch of shading in the bottoms with Burnt Umber. Float shading on the banner around the stars with Burnt Umber.

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Lettering: Paint with Lamp Black. Line a highlight in the top half of each letter with Warm White plus a touch of Crisp Blue. Line a shadow to the top and left of each letter, on the background, with thinned Burnt Umber. With your stylus add Warm White dots to each letter.

Finishing Touches: Let everything dry and then glue the frame/banner overlay onto the plaque.

Following manufacturer’s instructions, varnish with a coat or two of your favorite spray varnish.

Add a hanger to the back or drill holes in the corners for wire to hang. Display your Uncle Sam proudly. ©2020 Sandy LeFlore, Just Fine Designs Thank you for taking the time to ready my copyright statement. The design purchased in this packet is intended for Decorating Painting Purposes only. You may change the shape, size or surface of this design and hand paint it for personal use or sale at your craft show, craft mall, on your website, in your Etsy or eBay store or any craft-related sales market. This design and the packet contents may not be mechanically or electronically mass produced. You may not scan or copy the design photos provided in these instructions/packet. Digital tole or graphic reproductions is prohibited. You may photography YOUR hand painted version of this design for teaching use. No copies can be made of these written instructions or line drawing to sell or give away, even for classes. TEACHERS, CHAPTERS AND SHOP OWNERS: You may purchase multiples of this packet, at a discount, and provide them to your students as part of their class fee. Whether selling your hand painted version of this design or posting your finished project online to share with other painters or teaching it in a class, please give Just Fine Designs/Sandy LeFlore credit (i.e. “Designed by Sandy LeFlore” or “Based on a design by Sandy LeFlore”. Any other use of this design and/or packet contents will require permission from Sandy LeFlore.

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by Rosie Singalewitch

During my years as a ceramic/decorative painting teacher, I was fortunate enough to take a number of seminars and classes with the talented Larry Rhodes. Larry called these roses “star roses”; he would have us a draw a five-pointed star, then each of the outer petals would be stroked in between the points. It was an easy way to learn to paint simple roses and the perfect design element for this little box.

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Surface: x Anastasia Music Box Unfinished, available at Woodcanall’s Etsy Shop www.etsy.com/shop/Woodcanall Project Supplies: x Fine Sandpaper x Tack Cloth x DecoArt Wood Sealer x Sta-Wet Palette x Gray and White Transfer Paper x Tracing Paper x White Chalk Pencil x Strip of paper x Stylus x Factis Eraser Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Colonial Blue x Cranberry Wine x Evergreen x French Mauve x Jade Green x Olive Green x Pink Chiffon x Warm White x Williamsburg Blue Mediums: DecoArt x All Purpose Sealer x Ultra Satin Varnish Brushes: x 1/8” Chris Haughey’s Awesome Angle Shader, x ¼” Robert Simmons Sapphire Angle Shader x 3/8” Robert Simmons Sapphire Angle Shader x #2 Robert Simmons Sapphire Round x 10/0 Robert Simmons Sapphire Liner x #2 Robert Simmons Sapphire Filbert x Your favorite brush for basecoating x Your favorite brush for varnishing Preparation: Sand the surface. Remove dust with a tack cloth. Apply one coat of DecoArt Wood Sealer. Allow to dry. Sand once again and remove any dust with the tack cloth.

Basecoat the lid with Warm White. Basecoat the box bottom and the knob with Colonial Blue.

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Use a strip of paper to divide the bottom into 6 sections. Place the paper around the widest part of the box bottom. Cut the paper strip where it meets. Fold this paper in half, and then into thirds to divide the paper into six sections. Place the strip of paper back around the center of the box and use the chalk pencil to mark at each fold line. The box will now be divided into 6 equal sections. Trace the arc on the pattern page onto a piece of cardstock and cut out. Place this arch between each chalk point and trace. You now have the pattern line for the box bottom transferred.

Use the graphite paper to transfer the pattern to the box lid.

Box Lid: Note: All of the shading and highlighting on the lid is done with the ¼” and 1/8” angle shaders. Use the ¼” for most of the floating, but switch to the1/8” for the smaller, tighter areas in the center bowl of the rose.

Basecoat the rose petals in French Mauve. Shade the petals on the inside next to the bowl with Cranberry Wine. Keep your shading floats soft and a bit transparent, using floated layers of the color to achieve the gradation for a deep, rich shading. Highlight the petal edges with Pink Chiffon. Now basecoat the bowl of the rose. With Cranberry Wine, shade the bottom of the bowl, the inside of the bowl and separate the overlapping petals. Again, it may require more than one float to achieve the depth of shading you desire. Highlight the top of the bowl and petal edges with Pink Chiffon. If necessary, go back over the shading to blend in any edges on the rose.

Basecoat the large leaves with Jade Green. Shade with Evergreen. Apply a soft float of Evergreen down one side of the center vein on each leaf. Highlight the leaves with Olive Green. Apply a soft float of Olive Green down the center vein on the opposite of the Evergreen shading. Reinforce the shading in the darkest areas again with Evergreen. The small leaves are strokes of Evergreen using a #2 Filbert. The stems are stroked in with thinned Evergreen and the 10/0 liner.

The fine border on the lid is Colonial Blue applied with the 10/0 liner brush.

Box Bottom: Using a 3/8” angle shader, place a float of Williamsburg Blue under each one of the arcs on the box bottom. Place a float of Warm White on the top of each arc and around the edge of the box opening.

The cross-hatched lines on the box bottom are fine lines of Warm White using the 10/0 liner. Be sure to keep the angle consistent when applying the cross-hatching to each curved area. Also apply a thin line of Warm White to define each arc.

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Divide each arc into eight sections with the chalk pencil(or trace on the pattern for the scalloped edge). Place a half-circular float of warm white in each section to create each scallop shape. Stroke five fine detail lines within each scallop in a fan-type configuration so that each group of lines in the scallop has a common end point. Finish off the lace edge by using the stylus to made graduated sizes of dots. Pick up the paint on the stylus and place the first dot on the center of the outer edge of the scallop. Without reloading, continue to make dots moving down the curve. As the amount of paint on the stylus decreases, so will the size of the dots. Do the same thing on the other half of the scallop.

Work the entire scalloped edge this way. Add a dot at the base of each group of detail lines in each scallop and each of the six end-points of the arcs around the box.

Use the #2 Filbert to add three comma strokes at the end points of each of the six arcs.

Finishing: Apply two to three coats of Decoart Ultra Satin Varnish allow to dry for 24 hours between coats.

Lace Arch is at 100%

Roses Box Lid is at 100%

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By Jane Allen 80

Ahhh… summertime and these seaside siblings, Addy and Blain are playing with the fishes and enjoying the warmth of the sun on them.

To make learning to sculpt this pattern has a link to a number of small videos. You can watch a video, do the step and then move onto the next step. You can find the videos here: https://janeallencreates.blog/seaside-sibs/ Supplies x 1 tube, 2-ounce QuikWood x Dowel, 1/8” in diameter, cut to 1”, 1 ½ ”, 15”, 11”, 1 ½ “ x Dowel, 3/8” in diameter, cut to 21”, 6 ½” , 7”, 7 ¼ ”, 7 1/2 “ x 4”x4” 6” high wood block x 6” wide, tulle, sparkly white, 1 ½ yard x 3” wide, tulle gold glitter 1 yard x 2 pieces coordinating scrapbook paper x Multi-purpose foil tape (used for HVAC duct sealing) x 22-gauge brass wire Additional Project Supplies x Parchment Paper x Avon Silicon Glove Hand Cream x Super Glue Gel x Basic Painting Supplies

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Bluegrass Green x Bright Salmon x Deep Burgundy x Deep Midnight Blue x Dioxazine Purple x Indian Turquoise x Lamp Black x Moon Yellow x Ocean Blue x (Optional) Oyster Beige x Purple Cow

Tools: Cutting blade or old knife x Exacto knife x Sculpting tools or pencil x drill, drill bits x small saw x 3/8” Kemper Star clay cutter

x x x x x x x x x x

Raw Sienna Sand Sea Aqua Tangelo Orange Tangerine Teal Mint Warm Beige Warm White Whispering Turquoise Wild Berry

Mediums: DecoArt x Adhesion Medium x Extender x Spray Sealer/ Finisher Matte 81

Brushes: Loew Cornell x #1, #3 Round (Series 7000) x #14 shader (Series 7300) x #2/0 Liner (Series 7350), x #1/2" Angular Shader (Series 7400) x 3/8” Crescent Dry brush (Series 247)

Sculpting Instructions Sculpting Tips: When working with QuikWood (QW): remove jewelry especially rings, work on parchment paper or a wax palette. Apply Avon Silicon Glove before starting and periodically when working. Use Extender for blending QW, but be careful to not use too much because it will make your surface gummy. Only mix up the amount needed for the next step. Always make sure your QW is thoroughly mixed or it will not cure. Before painting wipe surface with baby wipe to remove any excess oils. Mix any color paint (I usually use Oyster Beige because it is the same color as the QW) with Adhesion Medium and apply to QW areas of project.

Addy the Mermaid Getting Started: (video) Lay a piece of parchment paper over pattern. Cut 1/8” dowel 1 ¼” long. Mix 1/8” of QW and roll into a ball. Lay over pattern for face, begin pressing and patting to fill pattern. You will want to create a dome shape with it fatter in the center and thinner around the edges. Once you are satisfied with the shape lift bottom of face with blade and slip dowel in place.

For the top of the body mix ¼” of QW and roll into a log. Lay over pattern. Begin pressing and patting to fill in shape making sure to keep the neck in place. At bottom press and flatten making it thinner since the tail will be going over top of it. Allow to cure.

Mermaid Tail: (video) For the Mermaid tail, mix ½” of QW and roll into a cone about 6” long, keeping the end skinnier. Position over pattern, gently pat to fill in pattern applying more pressure at the top, push and fill out the pattern. Allow to cure.

For the bottom of the tail mix ¼” of QW and divide into 2. Roll each into a cone about 1 ¾” – 2” keeping the ends skinny. Position over pattern with the fat part of the cone attached to the end of the tail, and gently pat into place. Blend end of fins to tail using extender if needed. Using knife shaped tool, place notches on bottom of tail to create a scalloped shape. Curl points of tail, making sure top turns down so you have a place for a hook. Allow to cure.

Blain the Merman, Getting Started: (video) Lay a piece of parchment paper over pattern. Cut 1/8” dowel 1” long. Mix ¼” of QW and divide into two with one piece larger than the other (almost 2/3 :1/3, but not quite) . Align neck and roll smaller piece of clay into a ball. Lay over pattern for face, begin pressing and patting to fill

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pattern. You will want to create a dome shape with it fatter in the center and thinner around the edges For the body mix use the larger piece of QW and roll into a log. Lay over pattern. Begin pressing and patting to fill in shape making sure to keep the neck in place. At bottom press and flatten making it thinner since the tail will be going over top of it. Allow to cure.

Merman Tail: (video) For the Merman tail, mix 1/4” of QW and roll into a cone about 2 1/2” long, keeping the end skinnier. Position over pattern, gently pat to fill in pattern, applying more pressure to the top.

At the top push and fill out the pattern. Allow to cure.

For the bottom of the tail, mix 1/8” of QW and divide into 2. Roll each into a cone about 1 ¾” keeping the ends skinny. Position over pattern and gently pat into place. Blend end of fins to tail (using extender if needed). Curl points of tail, making sure top turns down so you have a place for a hook. Allow to cure.

Noses, Bra and Belt: (video) Mix up a sliver of QW and pull off a ¼” ball; roll into a cone to make a nose for the mermaid.

Position nose on face and either cut off bottom of nose with blade to flatten or push up on bottom with blade. Repeat for merman using a slightly smaller ball of QW for the nose. Divide what is left in two and roll a coil about ¼” wide and lay across chest for her top. Gently flatten.

For his belt use half of what is left and roll into a coil about 1/8” wide and lay across waist. With what is left flatten and cut out star using kemper star cutter. Lay on center of belt. Allow to cure Adding Arms: Mermaid: (video) Mix ¼” of QW and divide into two. Roll each into a coil 3” long. Position over pattern and attach arms to shoulders. Bend arms following pattern. Allow to cure.

Merman: (video) Mix 1/8” of QW and divide into two. Roll each into a coil 2 1/2"” long. Position over pattern and attach arms to shoulders. Bend arms following pattern.

Allow to cure.

Hair: Mermaid: (video) - Mix up 1/4” of QW and pull off ball that is 3/8” and roll into a coil about 3” – 4”. Starting at bottom and following pattern begin positioning on head having the hair wave up and down. Continue adding coils following pattern making sure curls connect to each other. As the curls get shorter use smaller balls of clay. Mix additional clay if needed. Allow to cure.

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Merman: (video) Mix up sliver” of QW and pull off very small balls for ears, rolling into oval and attach to side of head. Pull off small ball of clay and roll into 1” coil”. Following pattern begin positioning on head having the hair wave up and down. Continue adding coils following pattern making sure curls connect to each other. Allow to cure.

Finishing Mermaid and Merman: Mix 1/8” of QW. Make hooks for top of heads by folding over a piece of wire and cutting to ½”. Pull off ball of QW and lay on back of head at hairline. Insert hook into clay. For him do the same thing.

On the back of each add QW anyplace there is a weak spot like the joint on the tail, their shoulders and neck and top of neck. Add a piece of clay and blend to existing QW. Make sure clay does not show on the front. Allow to cure.

Smallest Fish: Mix up 1/8” of QW and pull off 3/8” ball. Roll remaining clay into double pointed cone. Lay parchment paper over pattern and place clay on body of fish. Begin pressing and patting to fill in shape keeping more presser on outside edges so that the body in thicker in the center. Roll remaining piece of clay into a coil about ¾” long. Lay on pattern and join to body of fish. Blend tail to body using extender if needed. Allow to cure.

Medium Fish: Mix 3/8” of QW and pull off a ½” ball for tail. Roll tail into a coil about 1” long.

Large Fish: Mix 1/2” of QW for the body. For the tail mix 1/16” of QW and roll into a coil about 1 ¼” long. Allow to cure.

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The Fins, Eyes, and Lips: (video) Mix 1/8” of QW. For the large fish pull off two balls that are about 3/8” for the fins. Roll each into a coil about the length of the pattern and lay next to body, keeping the contour of the body.

Press and flatten. Use Exacto knife and cut front and back edge of fin. Pull off small ball for eye and lay on face. For lips, pull off two small balls and roll into two small cones about 3/8”. Place first cone below point of face and the second one below the first cone. Pull off ¼” ball of clay and press flat forming a rounded triangular shape. Lay pointed edge down on fish, behind face with fat end lifted up to form side fin. Continue for the two smaller fish. Mix another 1/8” of clay, if needed to finish the other two fish. Using tool or pencil, press in center of eyes. Allow to cure To make hooks for back mix 1/8” of QW and divide into three. Make hooks by folding over a piece of wire and trimming to ¾”. Roll clay into a ball and lay on the back of the fish and press the hook into the clay. Allow to cure.

Sun: (video) Mix ½” of QW and roll into a ball. Lay a piece of parchment paper over pattern. Lay clay in center and press and pat and fill space applying more pressure on the outside edge to create a dome shape. Allow to cure.

Nose: Mix a sliver of QW and roll into a long skinny cone for nose.

Place in center of face. Use blade to either cut off bottom of nose or to press up and flatten. Allow to cure. For the sun rays mix ¼” of QW and divide in two with one ball slightly larger than the other.

Divide each ball into four. Lay parchment paper over pattern. Using the larger pieces make each into a cone about 1” long. Position at 3, 6, 9, and 12 on pattern with about ¼” amount on the inside of the sun. Roll the smaller pieces to ¾” and position between the other rays with about ¼” on the inside of the pattern. Pick up sun and lay on top of rays and gently press into place. Allow to cure.

To enable the sun to hang straight, you will create a QW “pony bead”. Mix a sliver of QW and roll into a ball. Lay on the backside of the sun, close to the top and press in place. Using pointy tool, create an opening from one side to the other through the bead of QW. Allow to cure.

Base & Tree: (video) Getting Started: For the tree cut a 3/8” dowel to 21”. Cut a 1/8” dowel into the following lengths: 15”, 11”, 1 ½”. Drill holes for 1/8" dowels starting 3 ½” from top of 3/8” dowel. Place next hole 3” below top hole, the last hole 4 1 /2 “ below previous hole.

To center dowels in tree, measure each cross dowel, minus ½” and divide in two. Measure that length from end to center and place a pencil mark, place another mark ½” from that mark.

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Insert dowels into tree, place a drop of Super glue Gel on center section of dowel and then center dowel making sure they are straight. Wipe off any excess with a paper towel and allow to dry.

To make tree branches more secure. Cut 1/8” of QW and divide into 3 and then divided each piece in half. Roll into a coil about 3/4” and wrap around each branch next to center. Blend to branch and tree using extender. Allow to cure.

To make the pointy cone on top of the tree cut ¼” of QW and roll into a cone that is about 1” high. Flatten bottom by sitting on a piece of parchment paper. Allow to cure. Glue to top of tree with Super Glue Gel. To add balls to tip of 2 lower branches cut 1/4” of QW and divide into 4 equal pieces. Roll each into a ball. To make it easier to work with allow to sit about 10 minutes.

Using pointy tool or #2 pencil press opening in each ball. Working one at a time, place a dot super glue gel in hole then place on end of branch. Gently pat and press until you get desired shape. Continue until all balls are on the tree. When happy with shape of all balls, let tree stand to cure.

Base: Drill hole in top center of 4x4 to insert tree. To attach dowels at each corner of base, mix 1/8” of QW and roll into a 6” coil. Lay on corner of base and press into place. Blend edges with extender.

Press dowel into place. Continue to blend QW if needed. Repeat for second corner. Allow those two to cure and then repeat with other two corners. It is up to you which size dowel you place at each corner. For cones on corners mix ½” of QW and divide into 4. Roll each piece into a fat cone about ¾” high, sit on parchment paper to flatten bottom. Allow to cure and then glue on top of dowels.

Painting Instructions: Basecoat as follows: Bright Salmon – body small fish, bottom fin med fish, lips large fish, belt merman Indian Turquoise – eye lg fish, bottom fin small fish, top fin med fish, tail merman Moon Yellow – sun, body med fish, bottom fin lg fish, top fin small fish, star on merman belt Ocean Blue – lg fish side fin Purple Cow – body large fish, eye med fish, small fish lips Sand – base & tree Tangelo Orange – mermaid and merman hair Teal Mint -mermaid top and tail, lg fish top fin, med fish side fin, small fish eye Warm Beige – mermaid & merman body & face Wild Berry – med fish lips, small fish side fin

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Mermaid: Shade across forehead, nose, neck, arms, and body with Raw Sienna. Highlight hair by drybrushing with Tangerine. Paint eyes Lamp Black and cheeks with thinned Bright Salmon.

Shade sides of bra and tail with Bluegrass Green, reinforce with Deep Midnight Blue. Highlight center of bra, down center of tail and across bottom fins with Sea Aqua. Line bracelet and necklace with Dioxazine Purple, dot on beads with Warm White.

Merman: Shade across forehead, nose, neck, arms and body with Raw Sienna. Highlight hair by drybrushing with Tangerine. Paint eyes Lamp Black and cheeks with thinned Bright Salmon.

Shade sides of belt with Deep Burgundy, bottom of star with Raw Sienna and top of star with Warm White. Shade tail with Ocean Blue, reinforce with Deep Midnight Blue. Highlight down cent of tail and across bottom fins with Whispering Turquoise. Line necklace with Dioxazine Purple, dot on beads with Warm White.

Sun: Shade with Raw Sienna. Paint eyes Lamp Black and cheeks with thinned Bright Salmon.

Large, Purple Fish: Paint dots on body with thinned Warm White. Shade body and tail with thinned Dioxazine Purple and paint lines on tail with thinned Dioxazine Purple. Shade top fin next to body and paint lines on fin with Bluegrass Green. Shade bottom fin next to body and paint lines on fin with Raw Sienna. Shade side fin next to body and paint lines on fin with Deep Midnight Blue.

Shade back of lips with Wild Berry and highlight lips with Warm White. Paint center of eye with Lamp Black and highlight with Warm White. Paint cheek with thinned Bright Salmon.

Moon Yellow, Medium Fish: Paint dots on body with thinned Warm White. Shade body and tail with thinned Raw Sienna and paint lines on tail with thinned Raw Sienna. Shade top fin next to body and paint lines on fin with Ocean Blue. Shade bottom fin next to body and paint lines on fin with Wild Berry. Shade side fin next to body and paint lines on fin with Bluegrass Green. Shade back of lips with Deep Burgundy and highlight lips with Warm White. Paint center of eye with Lamp Black and highlight with Warm White. Paint cheek with thinned Bright Salmon.

Bright Salmon Small Fish: Paint dots on body with thinned Warm White. Shade body and tail with thinned Wild Berry and paint lines on tail with thinned Wild Berry. Shade top fin next to body and paint lines on fin with Raw Sienna. Shade bottom fin next to body and paint lines on fin with Ocean Blue. Shade side fin next to body and paint lines on fin with Deep Burgundy. Shade back of lips with Dioxazine Purple and highlight lips with Warm White. Paint center of eye with Lamp Black and highlight with Warm White. Paint cheek with thinned Wild Berry.

Base & Tree: Shade edges of dowels, sides of base, and top edges with Raw Sienna. Paint wash of Raw Sienna over tree. Using #14 flat and thinned Raw Sienna paint door and windows. Line loosely around 87

door and windows with thinned Raw Sienna. Paint one each ball and pointed top with the following: Bright Salmon, shaded with Wild Berry, Indian Turquoise shaded with Ocean Blue, Purple Cow shaded with Dioxazine Purple and Teal Mint shaded with Bluegrass Green. Paint point on top of tree with Ocean Blue and shade with Deep Midnight Blue Finishing : Following manufacturer’s instructions, spray varnish base, tree and ornaments.

Select scrapbook paper for flags. Place a piece of foil tape of the back of each. Transfer pattern, cut out and glue to top of tree, having tail wrap around dowel once. Bend and wave flag.

Drape tulle over dowels leaving tails.

Make wire hooks for pieces and attach to tree.

I hope you enjoy creating this project.

If you would like to see more of my work, go to my website at https://www.janeallencreates.com/

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by Karen Wisner Dyar

This Bless America plaque has such a deep meaning to me, this year especially. We are all fighting together to stop this horrible pandemic. I hope this plaque will make you smile and know we are all in this together. Sending hugs to all my painting friends, be strong and safe.

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Surface: x Rounded Arch Plaque # 31-L305 www.cdwood.com Supplies: x Burlap Stencil THS007 www.cdwood.com x Black Micron Pen 01 x Stylus x Dark & Light Transfer Paper x Tracing Paper x Cotton Swabs x Twine for hanger Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Antique Maroon x Avocado x Burnt Sienna x Dark Chocolate x Deep Midnight Blue x Foliage Green x Graphite x Honey Brown x Lamp Black x Light Buttermilk

x x x x x x x x x

Milk Chocolate Sand Slate Grey Snow White Terra Coral Tomato Red Warm Beige Williamsburg Blue Winter Blue

Mediums: x Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte DAS13 x DecoArt Acrylic Gesso TXFP06 Brushes: x Round sizes 1, 3 & 5 x Flat Wash 1" x Shaders 16 & 20 x Script Liners (long bristles) 5/0 & 10/0 x Mop 1/2 x Fabric Rounds 1/4 x Stencil 1/4 or 1/2" Helpful Tip: x Use the round brushes to basecoat. x The 5/0 script liner to paint vines and hairs. x The 10/0 to paint fine detail lines, details and fine hairs. x The 1" flat wash to float background areas. x The shaders to float color, shade and highlight (When floating color, load the brush with a wider amount of paint then done for shading or highlighting.). x The fabric round to drybrush inner highlights. x The mop to blend floated areas. x Use the Cotton Swab as a mini mop. x The stencil brush to apply stencil.

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Preparation: Place a puddle of Gesso onto the palette paper and water down slightly. Using a damp sponge, pounce Gesso all over the surface, let dry then repeat. Once the plaque is dry, apply 2 coats of Light Buttermilk, allowing drying time between the layers.

Trace pattern onto tracing paper using the Black Micron Pen. Transfer the basic design lines onto the plaque, using the small end of a stylus and transfer paper. Transfer the detail lines as needed.

Refer to the pattern, for shading (///) and highlights (...), as you paint.

Instructions: Background: Shade around the outside of the designs and edges using Honey Brown, let dry. Apply the burlap stencil using Winter Blue, let dry. Deepen the shading at the darkest shaded areas using Milk Chocolate.

Flag: Float flagpole color using Honey Brown. Base coat red stripes using Terra Coral. Float white stripes with Honey Brown. Float blue square using Williamsburg Blue. Paint Milk Chocolate cracks on pole, let dry then deepen the shading. Paint Tomato Red over the Terra Coral stripes, let dry then shade red stripes using Antique Maroon. Shade blue square using Deep Midnight Blue, let dry. Drybrush highlights on the flag and blue square using Snow White. Make star dots in the blue square using Snow White and the large end of the stylus. **All vines, berries and tiny leaves will be painted at the end of the instructions.

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Uncle Sam: Hat Band, Shirt & Pants: Shade hat band, shirt and pants using Honey Brown, let dry. Deepen the darkest shaded areas using Milk Chocolate. Paint Tomato Red stripes, let dry then repeat, let dry. Shade stripes using Antique Maroon, let dry. Highlight pants using Snow White.

Coat & Blue Hat Areas: Float blue coat and hat areas using Williamsburg Blue, let dry. Shade coat and hat using Deep Midnight Blue, let dry. Highlight coat and upper hat using a small amount of Winter Blue. Paint Light Buttermilk round buttons on the coat. Shade the light buttons using Honey Brown, let dry.

Paint button stitches and threads using Lamp Black; make dots. Paint tiny stitch lines on the coat using Deep Midnight Blue.

Head & Hands: Float head and hands color using Warm Beige, let dry. Shade using Terra Coral. Lightly shade under eyebrows and on right side of nose using Milk Chocolate. Float cheeks, around nose and a tiny amount on the left side of the nose using a very light amount of Tomato Red. Paint the mouth using Terra Coral, let dry. Shade hands using Tomato Red. Highlight down the side of the nose and the hands using Snow White. Paint Lamp Black eyes let dry. Float the lower lip using Tomato Red, let dry then paint the upper inside mouth triangle using Antique Maroon. Float a tiny amount of Winter Blue to highlight the lower areas of eyes.

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Beard, Mustache, Hair & Eyebrows: Paint the first layer of hairs using Sand, including eyebrows. The second layer of hairs are added using Snow White, let dry. Using Honey Brown, shade lightly under the mustache area and any areas you feel need a litter separation.

Rusty Spring & Rusty Stars: Basecoat spring and stars using Burnt Sienna, let dry then repeat with another layer, let dry. Shade using Graphite, let dry. Apply highlights using Sand.

Hangtag: Shade using Honey Brown, let dry. Paint detail lines, cracks, hole and outline of tag, using Milk Chocolate, let dry then deepen the shading, let dry. Paint "Bless America" using Lamp Black.

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Watermelon: Float green rind areas using Foliage Green. Float fruit area using Terra Coral, let dry. Shade green areas using Avocado, let dry then paint the detail lines. Shade white rind area using Honey Brown.

Float a light layer of Tomato Red over the fruit area, let dry. Shade fruit area using Antique Maroon, let dry. Drybrush highlight on the center of fruit. Paint Lamp Black seeds.

Crow: Float crow using Slate Grey, let dry then repeat, let dry. Shade using Graphite, let dry. Deepen shading on the darkest areas and paint eye "x" using Lamp Black.

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Vines, Berries & Leaves: Paint the dark vines using Dark Chocolate and light vines Sand. Paint the leaves using Foliage Green, let dry then shade using Avocado. Dot Tomato Red berries using the stylus ends.

Finish: 1. Spray the entire painted surface using Matte Spray Varnish, let dry then repeat.

2. Use jute to make a hanger for the plaque.

Any questions or concerns, please contact me: kdolls.designs@gmail.com or message me on Facebook; Karen Wisner

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Let’s go Camping

By Anita Morin Camping is my second home. Who says you can’t decorate your camp area?

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Surface: x Jumbo Parking Sign, 18" x 13 1/2", #31-L512 from Cupboard Distributing www.cdwood.com Project Supplies x Masterson Sta-Wet Handy Palette x Brush Basin x Large Sanding Pad, Fine/Medium x Small Sanding Pad, Fine/Medium x Gray Graphite Paper x Stylus x Tack Cloth x Medium Gauge Wire for hanging x Assorted Ribbons of Choice x Hummingbird Garden Stencil - STCL1676 - by StudioR12.com Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics: x Alizarin Crimson x Black Plum x Burnt Umber x Cinnamon Drop x Cranberry Wine x Dessert Turquoise x Evergreen x Forest Green x Indian Turquoise

x x x x x x x x x

Lamp Black Magenta Sable Brown Sand Grey Sapphire Blue Slate Grey Snow White Shoreline Ultra Blue Deep

Brushes: Royal & Langnickel x 3/8” Angular L7100 series x 4 flat L7150 series x 8, 10, 12 Chisel blender L7150-s x 3/4” Glaze series L7700 x 4, 8 Filbert series L7170 x ½” Oval wash series L7650 x 10/0”, 20/0” Script L7595 x ½”, 3/4 “, 1” Moderna mop brushes series M77 x 3/8’ dome brush series Moderna M77 Mediums x DecoArt DuraClear Matte Varnish x DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer x DecoArt Drying Time Extender x DecoArt Easy Float Preparation Please follow all manufacturers’ label instructions for proper product usage.

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Painting Tips Unless otherwise indicated, use the brush best suited to the area being painted.

Dry brushing: Use the Chisel Blender suited for the area you are working with. Load the bristles with paint; rub on a paper towel to remove as much paint as possible until almost dry.

Apply light pressure. (This is also a good way to test the shading before applying to the surface.)

Repeat this step, if needed.

Float/Shade: Add a few drops of Easy Float to the clean water to assist with shading and highlighting. Dampen the area you are working in with DecoArt Americana Drying Time Extender instead of water for floating and highlighting. This step will allow a longer play time.

Try to avoid puddles. Use the mop brush to remove water lines and to soften the floating and highlighting.

Line: All details are painted with the size 10 /0 Script, use inky-consistency paint. Roll the tip of the brush on the palette to remove excess paint, form a tight point and create finer lines.

Stippling: When using the dome brush for stippling, make sure to use the tip of the brush only, loaded with very little paint at a time and pounce on palette before applying to surface to prevent blobs of paint.

Stenciling: Load the bristles with paint; rub on paper towel to remove as much paint as possible until almost dry. Apply light pressure. (This is also a good way to test the shading before applying to the surface.) Let dry.

Preparation: Typically, MDF surfaces should not be sanded.

Completely seal the front, back and sides with DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer. Let dry.

Painting Instructions: Background Use the oval wash brush to basecoat the oval with several coats of Sand Grey thinned to ink consistency, using long, even brushstrokes; let dry. Smooth the surface between each coat using the small sanding pad. Float along the oval edge with Slate Grey. Repeat if necessary.

Use the ¾” glaze brush and long, even strokes to basecoat the arrow with several coats of Shoreline; allow ample drying time between coats. Smooth the surface between each coat using the small sanding pad. Float along the edge with Indian Turquoise. Let dry and darken with Desert Turquoise.

Allow to dry. Apply the pattern using tracing paper, transfer paper, and stylus.

Linework Note: All the outlines will be done last using the 10/0 script liner.

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Trailer Using the oval brush, basecoat the top half of trailer and the entire door with Shoreline.

Basecoat the bottom half of the trailer with Cinnamon Drop. Float along the top half of trailer and along the inside door with Indian Turquoise. Let dry and darken with Desert Turquoise.

Dry-brush the top right corner of trailer with a mix of Shoreline and Snow White and the top center of door. m half of Float along the edges of the bottom trailer with Alizarin Crimson. Let dry and then darken with Cranberry Wine.

Dry-brush bottom left and right side of trailer with a brush mix of Cinnamon Red and Snow White.

Basecoat the windows Snow White, the curtain Desert Turquoise and the top & bottom window ledge with Lamp Black.

On the door, float along the right side of the window Slate Grey. On ction the window, float along the top section with Slate Grey. Using the stylus, rop. dot the curtains with Cinnamon Drop.

Add a Snow-White line between the top and bottom section of the trailer.

Using the no. 4 filbert to basecoat the wheel Lamp Black and the inside with brush mix of Lamp Black and Slate Grey to make a darker grey colour. Dry-bush the top of wheel with the same grey and outline a highlight along the center.

Basecoat the bumper and front hitch with Slate Grey.

Basecoat the propane tank with Snow White.

Lot Sign Basecoat the wooden sign with Sable Brown. Let dry. Float along top and bottom with Burnt Umber. Dry-brush the center with Snow White. Let dry and transfer writing. Outline with Snow White. Basecoat the pole with Burnt Umber.

Welcome Mat Basecoat the matt with Sable Brown. Let dry. Float the top and bottom with Burnt Umber. Drybrush the center with Snow White. Let dry and transfer the writing. Outline with Snow White.

Umbrella Basecoat the stripes with Snow White and Magenta. Let dry. Float along the right side of umbrella lightly with Sable Brown and the left side with Black Plum.

Chair Basecoat the chair with Magenta and the arm with Snow White. Let dry. Float along the inside edge of chair with Black Plum and the arms with Slate Grey. Dry-brush the top right corner with 102

a mix of Magenta and Snow White. Using the stylus dot the flowers with Snow White and the center of flower with Desert Turquoise. The leg frame of chair is outline with Slate Grey.

Book and wine glass Basecoat the book Sapphire and the page Snow White.

Let dry. Float along the edge of book with Ultra Deep Blue. Dry-brush the top center with Snow White. Float along top of page with Slate Grey.

BBQ Basecoat the top of BBQ with Slate Grey and the bottom with Cinnamon Drop. Let dry. Float the bottom edge of the top with a mix of Lamp Black and Slate Grey. Float the top edge and right side of bottom with Alizarin Crimson and darken with Cranberry Wine. Outline the middle edge and legs with Lamp Black.

Grass Using the chisel blender suited to dry-brush with Forest Green. Use the 20/0”script to apply long grass with Evergreen and Sable Brown.

Clouds Using the dome brush dry. Stipple the clouds starting from top working downwards with Snow White. Repeat the top of clouds with the same colour.

Let’s Go Camping Using the shader brush best suited, basecoat the lettering with Lamp Black. Let dry.

Position the stencil and using the dome round brush and Snow White, drybrush the design as shown on photo.

Finishing Allow to completely dry and following manufacturer’s instructions, apply 1 to 2 coats of varnish.

Hang with wire and use the end of a brush to twirl the wire. Optional; can apply different ribbon around the wire.

Anita Morin 34 Kain Cres.

Elliot Lake, Ontario P5A 1C2 anita_morin@hotmail.com http://imageevent.com/anitamorin

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WER

By Patricia Jarrett 107

There are two things that catch my eye, anything red/white/blue and sunflowers! This was the perfect mix of the two. This was designed to be a fast and “easy” painting project. The design is more than suitable for any flat surface and would be wonderful on a tray! I chose a surface that has “stamp-like” edging and added USA to the bottom right corner.

Surface: x 9 x 12” Vertical Postage Stamp Plaque, 20-11620 from Viking Woodcraft https://www.vikingwoodcrafts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=b1e13cb9b155ee2f7610be7 2e73d3400& Supplies x Graphite paper – grey and white x Stylus – different sizes x Clear plastic ruler (good to have but optional for this pattern) x Pencil – mechanical or very sharp pencil x Eraser x Tracing paper x Paper towels or blue shop towels (my favorite!) x Water basin x Oval sanding pad x Cotton Swabs x Wire for hanging x Identi-Pen (for linework; I also sign my pieces with it) available from Cupboard Distributing, https://www.cdwood.com/products/identi-pen Triple Threat Ghost Writer (optional)- this tool is amazing, does a thin chalk line, thin graphite line as well as a solid point that is great for tracing. This is a tool you will use and use and use again! Available from Creative Arts Lifestyle http://creativeartslifestyle.com/all-products/triple-threat-ghost-writer/ Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Burnt Orange x Deep Midnight Blue x Hauser Dark Green x Hauser Light Green x Hauser Medium Green x Lamp Black x Light French Blue Mediums: DecoArt x Titanium White (Snow) x Matte Spray Acrylic Sealer/FinisherDAS13 x True Red A note on brushes: I have listed the brushes I feel comfortable using but you can substitute according to your preference.

Please note, large surfaces are painted with a large flat brush of your choosing. Smaller areas are painted with a size flat brush that is comfortable for you. The same holds true for any round brush used. The curved flat brushes were used for floating and I used the smaller size for smaller areas, middle size for larger areas and the large size for the largest areas.

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I use both Crescent brushes and domed brushes for the dry brushing and used a size that was appropriate to the area being brushed.

Brushes: Loew-Cornell x Curved Flat 7330, sizes 6, 10 and 12 * Discontinued, substitute with flat or angle flat in sizes 6, 10, and 12 x Mesa or flat brush size 4 x Crescent brushes, #247, ½”, 3/8”, ¼” and 1/8” * Crescent brushes have been discontinued. Substitute Dynasty Mezzaluna, available from the Brush Guys x JS Mid Liner #2 x JS Mid Liner #10/0 x Large flat brush (for the larger areas) x Scruffy/ratty old brush – you know, that really ratty looking brush that has been around for a long time.

Preparation: Typically, MDF does not need to be sanded prior to painting. Following manufacturer’s instructions, lightly spray entire surface with Matte Sealer.

Background: I started by tracing in ½ inch from the outside edge all the way around. Paint this outside area (including the inside curve) with Titanium White using the Mesa brush or size 4 flat brush. I used 2 coats to make it opaque. Paint the inside rectangle with Lt. French Blue using a large flat brush. This also required 2 coats to make it opaque.

Painting Instructions Using white graphite paper, transfer the design (with the exception of the stars, tie off on the pennant string and letters on the pennants).

Basecoating Pennants: Using Titanium White, and a flat brush #4 or whatever is comfortable for you) base the pennants with two coats.

White Flower Petals Using Titanium White, and a flat brush #4 or whatever is comfortable for you) base alternating flower petals with two coats.

Blue Petals: When dry, paint the other flower petals True Red (2 coats).

Center of flower: Basecoat with Deep Midnight Blue using a larger flat brush (2 coats if necessary).

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Stars: Trace on the stars using the white graphite paper and then base each star with Titanium White.

Each of the stars should be shaded on the lower section with Lt. French Blue using the smaller crescent brush.

Shading(S) and Highlighting (H) Details: Using Lt. French Blue, and the smaller crescent brush, float a shade on the bottom of each of the white petals and on the bottom of each of the pennants. Highlight (H) the top of each of the red petals using Burnt Orange. Using the same brush and Lt. French Blue, (H) the top area of the center of the flower. Then using a mix of Lamp Black and Deep Midnight Blue, (S) the bottom section of the flower center and also under each of the stars (keep it light).

Leaves and Stems: The leaves and stems are based with Hauser Medium Green.

I used a #2 and #4 flat brush. It may require two coats. When dry, trace in the center line of each leaf using white graphite paper. Using Hauser Light Green, (H) the tops of the leaves and the under the center line of the leaves (refer to photo). When dry, using Hauser Dark Green, (S) the bottom of the leaves as well as over the center line (refer to photos). I shaded and highlighted the stems in a similar fashion (refer to photos). When dry, I went back and dry brushed the highlighted areas and shaded areas.

Pennant Details: Trace in FREEDOM on the pennants and using a fine liner, paint the letters using a mix of Deep Midnight Blue and Lamp Black, maybe 75:25 favoring the Deep Midnight Blue. When the letters are dry, paint the string and bows on the pennant.

The knot on the bow is achieved using a medium to large sized stylus tip. Also, a good time to paint the USA in the lower right corner using the same paint and adding a dip dot at the ends of each letter.

When all is dry, using Deep Midnight Blue and a medium sized crescent brush or flat brush of your choosing, float a shade all the way around the inside of the Lt. French Blue area.

Finishing - Once totally dry, carefully remove any remaining graphite lines. Wait a day and then spray the plaque with the acrylic sealer/finisher, 2 light coats should be fine!

A word of encouragement from Patricia Jarrett This was a fun piece to design and paint and I hope this piece brings you joy.

Remember you are not in a race, paint at your own speed and enjoy the process! ____________________________________________________________ This pattern can be enlarged or made smaller to fit any surface. My designs are for you to paint for fun or profit but not for mass distribution. I would appreciate you giving me credit for the design should you paint it to sell on eBay, Etsy, Facebook, web sites, etc. This pattern is not to be copied, scanned, or photographed for distribution without my permission. The pattern may be hand traced for personal use or for teaching purposes only. If you have any questions concerning these, contact me at thesunflowercupboard@gmail.com

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