December 2016 full issue

December 2016 Issue

December 2016 Table of Contents Title From the Editors January Sneak Peek Sparkle Outside the Box: There’s Snow Place Like Home Baby It’s Cold Outside Winter Tapestry Blizzard Cheerio Snowman Grandma’s Gingerbread Cookies I Love You to the Moon and Back Snowman Paddle Board The Gift Belly Whoppin’ and Slippery Slidin’ Time for Snow!

Winter Door Crown Winter’s Eve Red House Farm Reader Gallery/Advertisers

Designer Betty Bowers Deb Antonick

Page 3 4 5-8 9-11

Sandy McTier Marlene Fudge Diane Marie Kellogg Martha Smalley Vicki Saum

12-21 22-28 29-33 34-38 39-44

Mila Marchetti

45-49

Karen Wisner Sharon K. Hammond Sharon Cook

50-55 56-66 67-82

Sharon Bond Judy Diephouse Patricia Jarrett Barbara Bunsey

83-87 88-94 95-102 103-107 108-109

Copyright Notice:

© Copyright 2016 Pixelated Palette. The Pixelated Palette is produced 12 times per year by Cupboard Distributing, 1463 S US Highway 68, Urbana, Ohio 43078. All rights reserved on entire contents of this digital magazine. The information in this publication is presented in good faith. As the author(s) and publisher have no control over the application of the information presented, the results are not guaranteed. Reproduction of editorial content is strictly prohibited without written permission of the Publisher.

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The Christmas countdown has begun; let the “gifting” begin!

Although it is customary to use the New Year as a starting point to begin a series of events, the elves at Pixelated Palette simply could not wait a minute longer to share their surprise. . .

Starting with the December issue, Pixelated Palette is launching an innovative column by Deb Antonick called “Outside the Box”. In addition to introducing our readers to the most up to the minute products and design trends, each month Deb will fashion a project and create a short video demonstrating the techniques and materials she used in its construction. To access the video you must be logged in to your Pixelated Palette account. When you click onto the pattern, the video will be loaded and ready to play. Enlarge the video by clicking on the little box immediately to the left of the word Vimeo.

I truly hope that as you look back on 2016, you are pleased with your creative adventures and artistic achievements; I would like to believe that the content of Pixelated Palette did contribute to some of your imaginative endeavors.  On behalf of Lindsey and me, we wish you a joyous Christmas and a 2017 abundant with blessings!

Waving my paintbrush~ Susan

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January 2017 Sneak Peek

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Sparkle

By Betty Bowers Everyone loves Snowmen! This wintery project is brimming with snow shine and glitter. Simply adjust the pattern size to fit whatever wood round you have in your stash. Create ornaments, coaster or even embellish a gift bag. This design paints up quickly and smiles back at you throughout the process!

Supplies: Surface  Round surface of choice; or cut circle from 1/8” wood, drill hole for hanging.  6” circle available from Betty Bowers 803-286-5505 Project Supplies: (in addition to your regular supplies)  E6000  5 (assorted sizes) Snowflakes available at Bear with Us #2386  Industrial Stamp by Andy Skinner # ASCRS03 available at cdwood.com  Ball Stylus  Sanding Disc Pixelated Palette

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Foam Plate Plastic Palette Knife Spray Varnish of choice

Paints: DecoArt Chalky Paints  Carbon ADC296  Escape ADC20  Everlasting ADC01  Fortune ADC15  Heritage ADC09  Inheritance ADC12  Legacy ADC21  Romance ADC04

Brushes: Papillon by Artist Club #4, #6 Shader #20128 #8, #12 Shader #20135 #6 Filbert 10/0 Liner # 20137 ¼” Angular #20109 ½” Angular #20111 Dome or Stencil Brush for dry brushing

Mediums: DecoArt  Art Snow Tex  Art Glamour Dust  Art Metallic Lustre Silver Spark Betty’s favorite part of this project: Using DecoArt Chalky Paint! This ultra-matte chalk paint requires no priming or sanding before using Preparation: Using E6000, glue snowflakes on (see photo for placement). Let dry completely.

Basecoat the surface with Escape; be sure to get paint down in and around the snowflakes. Let dry completely and if needed, sand lightly and remove dust.

Painting instructions: Always allow sufficient drying time between steps.

Shade around the snowflakes and the edge with Legacy.

Stamping the background: Mix a very small amount of water and Everlasting together on a foam plate; spread out the watery paint. Press the stamp into the paint (blot on paper towel if needed).

Press the stamp on the circle, beside the snowflakes.

When dry, accent the snowflakes by dry brushing Metallic Lustre Silver Spark over them; randomly brush some on the background too.

Dry brushing Betty’s way: Please practice off your surface until you get the feel of just enough paint and pressure.

For this technique, you can use a Filbert, a Dome Brush (AKA Scumbler) or even a stencil brush.

Load the DRY brush with a small amount of paint. Scrub back and forth on paper palette; then wipe the bristles once on dry paper towel to remove excess paint. Using very light strokes, brush the color onto the surface following the design line. You can do this just once or several times to get the depth of color you want. When going to the next lighter value of color, just wipe out your brush and load paint onto the dirty brush. This will bridge the new color into the previous color and create a subtle value change.

Remember to always wipe once on paper towel to remove any excess paint before going to the surface.

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Transfer on the basic lines of the snowman; shade behind the snowman outline with Everlasting.

Face: Basecoat with several light coats of Everlasting; shade around the face with Legacy.

Cheeks: Dry brush just a little Romance.

Eyes: Dry brush around the eyes with Legacy; paint the eyes Carbon. Paint a large comma stroke on the right side of each eye with Everlasting; also add the twinkle in each eye with Everlasting.

Paint the details on eyes with Carbon.

Carrot Nose: Load the #6 Filbert brush with Heritage; begin at the large end of carrot painting comma strokes; they will get smaller as you get to the end. Flip the piece over and load the same brush with Romance and repeat the stroke technique the length of the carrot. Leave uneven.

Next, load brush with Inheritance and pull down on the nose to add highlights. Do not paint all the strokes even; repeat with Everlasting. Snowtex details will be added later.

Top Hat: Basecoat Carbon; dry brush highlights with Silver Spark.

Paint the hat band with Fortune. Paint the swirls with Everlasting and once dry, accent them with a dry brush of Silver Spark.

Scarf: Paint the scarf with Romance; dry brush with Everlasting; paint the stitching and lines with Everlasting.

Cord: Paint with Fortune; use liner brush and Everlasting to highlight; make dip dots with Everlasting.

Collar: Paint with Romance; dry brush with Everlasting. Paint the stitching and lines with Everlasting.

Tabs: Paint with Legacy, Inheritance, and Fortune.

Paint the dots with different colors from your palette.

The stitching around the edges is Everlasting; paint some stitching with Carbon.

Details: Use a palette knife to spread snow-tex on the top of each snowflake, the top of the circle, on the hat, nose and collar. While wet, sprinkle with Glamour Dust. If you’d like, pull down some icicles with Everlasting and a liner brush. Let dry.

Finishing: Spray with varnish of choice.

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Outside the Box December 2016 Video Lesson

There is Snow Place Like Home

By Deb Antonick

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Welcome to the launch of my new column “Outside the Box”. Each month I will create a short, informative video introducing exciting products; some you might already have in your stash, others you may be completely unfamiliar with. My goal is to encourage you to discover new products, familiarize yourself with imaginative techniques and incorporate the latest trends into your decorative painting projects.

For December we will create a rustic, winter snowman sign using Americana Decor© Chalky Finish™ paint; available in 43, intermixable colors, this ultra matte paint requires no priming or sanding.

Join me as we create this fun and easy project.

Supplies Surface  # 20-11583 Plaque, Snowman Pallet, 15" T x 9", from www.vikingwoodcrafts.com Project Supplies:  Stencil – Stcl1145_1 “There’s Snow Place Like Home”  Stencil – S109 Jumbo Snowflake Flurry Available From Www.Creativeartslifetyle.Com  Stamp – Stampendous Crs5069 Delicate Snow Set  Palette Knife,  4” Ranger Brayer  Scissors  2 Small Black Buttons  Small Piece Of Burlap For The Nose  Baby Wipes  Makeup Sponge Or Ranger Mini Ink Blending Tool W/Foam Paints: Americana Decor© Chalky Finish™  Restore ADC35  Timeless ADC04  Everlasting ADC01  Whisper ADC03  Treasure ADC19 DecoArt Acrylics:  Prussian Blue  Spa Blue  Persimmon Mediums:  DecoArt Deco-page Matte  DecoArt Matte Sealer Finisher Spray  Diamond Dust Glass Glitter

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Brushes: FM Dynasty - available from www.thebrushguys.com  #10, Flat Shader 206S Black Gold  3/8”, ½” Angular Shaders 206A Black Gold  1” or 5/8” Dynasty Decorator Series 400 Mops  “Eye of the Tiger” ¾” Glaze Brush  ½” Stencil Brush Instructions: Tip: Refer to the video and color photo for shading and detail placement.

Background: Basecoat with Timeless Brayer Background: Restore, Timeless Brayer Roll: Whisper Brayer Roll: Everlasting Snow: Base the snow on the ground with Whisper.

Lettering: Stencil the background lettering with Treasure; shade with Prussian Blue; Highlight letters with Spa Blue.

Outer Edges: Shade around the outer edge of the surface with Restore Nose: Cut from the burlap. Basecoat with a 1:1 mix of Deco-page and Persimmon. When dry, position and adhere with Deco-page.

Stamping: Stamp the Snowflakes with Everlasting and the Snowflake stamp set.

Large Snowflakes: Stencil the large snowflakes with Deco-page and quickly sprinkle with Diamond Dust Glass Glitter. Repeat for each snowflake.

Eyes: Glue on the eyes.

Finishing Following manufacturer’s directions, varnish with DecoArt Matte Sealer Finisher Spray.

Nose and Eyes Pattern

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©2016 Sandy McTier

Baby it’s Cold Outside!

By Sandy McTier Chase away the winter chill by experimenting with DecoArt Media Fluid Acrylics; create a blizzard background with Shimmer Misters, Stencils and Glitter.

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Supplies: Surface:  10x10 Wood Canvas Panel Item #28-29840; available at www.cdwood.com Project Supplies:  10” Frost Snowflake Item #31-L217; available at www.cdwood.com  Large Scroll Stencil – Item #M2-2L; available at www.sandymctierdesigns.com  North Pole Snowflakes – 8 ½ x 11 – Item #STCL518; available at www.StudioR12.com  Sponge Dauber or Make-up Wedge/Sponge  Optional ~ Identi-Pen  E-6000 Glue  Standard Painting Supplies Paints: DecoArt Media Fluid Acrylics  Quinacridone Gold (DMFA32) (DMFA39)  Titanium White  Carbon Black (DMFA05)  Raw Umber (DMFA37)  Phthalo Blue (DMFA23)  Primary Magenta (DMFA29)  Cobalt Teal Hue (DMFA10) DecoArt Media Shimmer Mister:  Turquoise (DMM09) Mediums by DecoArt:  Soft-Touch Varnish (DMM26) (DMM13)  Brush & Stencil Cleaner  Multi-Purpose Sealer (DS17)  Decou-Page Matte Medium (DS106)

Paints: DecoArt American Acrylics:  Warm Beige (DAO78) DecoArt Specialty Products:  Media Medium Gesso – White  Glamour Dust – Crystal

(DMM18) (DAS37)

Brushes by Dynasty  Flats #14, 10, 2 Black Gold  Angles 3/8 & 1/4 Black Gold  Small Deerfoot  10/0 X-Long Detail Liner  Small Mezzaluna Available at www.theBrushGuys.com  Use Promo Code: sandymc for an additional discount

Surface Prep and Background: Paint the wood canvas panel with Multi-Purpose Sealer using #14 Flat; lightly sand and remove dust.

Paint the Snowflake and wood panel with Gesso using #14 Flat.

Instructions Spritz Shimmer Mister Turquoise on surface and then, using a wet #14 Flat, spread the paint around the surface. Turn piece upright and let the paint drip. Scrunch up a paper towel and dab here and there to pick up some of the color. Let dry.

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Place scroll stencil on surface; load sponge dauber with Gesso and pounce off excess; pounce over stencil. Reload with Gesso as needed but make sure to pounce off excess before pouncing over the stencil or it will seep underneath. Remove stencil and wash it and the sponge dauber with stencil cleaner.

When dry, transfer the pattern.

Painting Instructions: Always allow ample drying time between paint or medium applications.

Words: Load #2 Flat with Carbon Black and paint words. Just before varnishing the finished project, shade underneath the lettering using a slightly damp 1/4 Angle brush with Paynes Grey loaded on the toe.

Undercoating with Gesso: Load a damp #10 Flat with Gesso and paint her hair, face, scarf and dress as shown above. Thin the Gesso with a small amount of water so the you can still see the facial features. If the gesso is too opaque, transfer the facial features on again.

Hair: Basecoat with Raw Umber using a #10 flat.

Face: Basecoat with Warm Beige. To lighten her skin tone, add touches of Gesso to the paint.

Repeat if necessary for opaque coverage.

Cheeks:Load the medium sized Mezzaluna brush with Warm Beige and a touch of Primary Magenta; work into the brush. Run the brush back and forth on a soft paper towel to get rid of most of the paint and then dry brush over her cheeks. This might require several applications depending on how rosy you would like her cheeks. If you get them too dark, simply load the #10 Flat with a touch of water and some Warm Beige and apply a wash over her face.

Eyes & Lips: Load liner brush with Titanium White and paint the eyes as shown. Rinse brush; load with Primary Magenta and paint her lips. Wipe brush off and stroke over the bottom lip a couple times to lift some of the paint to make the bottom lip lighter.

Load liner brush with Phthalo Blue and a touch of Gesso; blend on palette to get a nice eye color. Paint the iris on each eye. Rinse liner brush; load with Carbon Black and paint the pupils.

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Optional: Outline the eyes, nose and lips and draw on the eyelashes with the fine tip of an Identi-Pen or use a liner brush loaded with Carbon Black to outline those areas and paint the lashes.

Lips: Load liner brush with Titanium White and add a small highlight dot on the top and bottom right of the lips.

Details: Load the toe of a slightly damp 1/4 Angle brush with Raw Umber and shade underneath the eyebrows, eyes, chin and above and below the mouth.

Load small Mezzaluna brush with Titanium White and wipe almost all of the paint off on a soft paper towel. Run the brush from the tip of her nose up to the middle of her forehead. Reload brush and repeat as needed. Dry brush some on the chin and along the top of her cheeks.

Load liner brush with Titanium White and paint small line and dots on both eyes as shown in the finished picture.

Coat: Load #10 Flat with Phthalo Blue and paint her coat. Load liner brush with Cobalt Teal Hue and paint the coat lining where it opens.

Scarf: Load a damp #10 Flat with Phthalo Blue and some Gesso; mix on palette and paint scarf.

Side load the toe of a damp 1/4 Angle brush with Paynes Grey and shade underneath where the scarf folds, where it touches as it flows away from her neck, at the knot and at the folds of the scarf around her neck. Add a bit of a zig zag near the bottom of each flowing scarf as shown in the picture on the right below. Let dry.

Load the toe of a slightly damp 3/8 Angle brush with Phthalo Blue and float color on the left side of the flowing scarf and along the bottom of each of the folds around her neck. Let dry.

Dip the wooden end of the liner brush into Titanium White and ‘dot’ polka dots here and there.

Load the liner brush with Paynes Grey and paint lines from the zig zag area down.

Dip the wooden end of the liner brush into Paynes Grey and ‘dot’ dots along the bottom of the zig zag area. Wipe wooden end off; load with Titanium White and repeat, as needed, in a random fashion.

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Hand Warmer: Basecoat with Paynes Grey. Load small Deerfoot brush with Titanium White and tap on the hand warmer. Make sure not to cover up all of the Paynes Grey.

Tap beyond the edge so that tiny little touches of paint give the warmer a fuzzy appearance.

Load #2 Flat with Paynes Grey and paint the open area on the left of the hand warmer.

Scrolls: See worksheet below for scroll stroke work.

Print it out and lay a piece of wax paper over it to practice the strokes.

Load #2 Flat with Titanium White and paint scroll strokes on coat. Sit on the corner at the top of the stroke, push, pull and gradually lift to the chisel edge of the brush as you slide out of the stroke.

Repeat with a smaller scroll stroke right next to the first but this time make it shorter.

Load the liner brush with Titanium White and paint a thin scroll stroke that comes around the first scroll stroke painted and then down. Paint a small stroke on the top left of the thin scroll stroke. Dip the end of the brush into Titanium White, dot once on palette and then paint dots along the edge and top of the scrolls as shown. Let everything dry.

Details: Load the toe of a slightly damp 3/8 Angle brush with Paynes Grey and shade along the opening of her coat where it meets her white dress. Shade on the other side of the lining where it meets the coat and where the scarf meets her shoulder and dress; add just a touch of shading along the bottom of her hand warmer. Outline the scarf and coat with an Identi-Pen or use a liner brush loaded with Carbon Black.

Hair: Load #2 Flat with Raw Umber and a touch of Titanium White; mix on palette. Sliding on the chisel edge of the brush, paint highlights in her hair. With paint still on the brush, pick up some Quinacridone Gold and paint over some of the highlights. If you make the highlights to light, wait for them to dry and then paint a wash of Raw Umber over them. Let everything completely dry. Outline the sections of her hair with the Identi-Pen or liner brush loaded with Carbon Black.

SnowFlakes: Load sponge with Gesso and pounce excess off on palette.

Pounce over North Pole Snowflakes stencil as shown in finished picture. I used the small snowflakes to dot the ‘i’s and exclamation point. Then I dotted the center of the snowflakes with the wooden end of my liner brush loaded with Carbon Black. Once dry, I added a small dot of Titanium White in the center of the black dots.

Spatters: Load #10 Flat with water and Titanium White and mix on palette to make a nice watery puddle. Tap the middle of the brush over the middle of another brush, splattering some white here and there. To avoid getting it all over her face, cover it with a paper towel. Lay a piece of paper towel over the splattered area and lightly press. This will give the splatter a softer appearance.

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Finishing Lay the panel on top of the snowflake, positioning it where you’d like it. Glue the snowflake onto the back of the panel using E-6000 Glue. Let dry completely. Paint the snowflake topper with Decou-Page and then sprinkle it with the Crystal Glamour Dust. Make sure to have a piece of card stock underneath so that you can pour the loose Glamour Dust back into the container.

Add some Decou-Page to the hand warmer and sprinkle with Glamour Dust. Using the liner brush, paint a couple of the snowflakes with Decou-Page and sprinkle with Glamour Dust as well.

Once everything is dry, seal the panel with DecoArt Soft-Touch Varnish. I didn’t seal the glittered snowflake, but you certainly may if you’d like.

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Close up of facial features

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Sandy McTier Designs Email: sandymctierdesigns@aol.com Website: www.sandymctierdesigns.com Blog: SandyMcTierDesigns.blogspot.com Follow me on Facebook under Sandy McTier Designs Follow me on Pinterest, Twitter and Instagram also under Sandy McTier

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Winter Tapestry Designed By Marlene Fudge This is the second in my series of seasonal plates. This winter tapestry is designed with blues and whites that will decorate your home during the holidays and throughout the winter season.

Surface  12” round wood plate with 2” rim Project Supplies  Basic Painting Supplies  White Graphite Paper  Small and large stylus  Easy Release Painters Tape

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Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics  Arbor Green  Deep Midnight Blue  French Gray Blue  Warm White

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DecoArt Dazzling Metallics  Shimmering Silver DA070  Splendid Gold DA263

Mediums:  DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer  Minwax Polycrylic Varnish- Clear Satin

Brushes by Loew-Cornell  1” Wash, #7550  #4 Filbert, #7500  10/0 Script Liner #7050  ½” Maxine’s Mop

Brushes by Papillon  #10/0 Liner  #1 Round  #3 Round  #6 Shader  #10 Shade

Note: Always allow ample drying time between paint or medium applications.

Preparation Sand the plate so it is nice and smooth, wipe off dust. Mix Multi-Purpose Sealer with equal parts Deep Midnight Blue and base coat the plate using the #1 Wash. Lightly sand to remove the raised fibers of the wood. Apply additional coats of just Deep Midnight Blue until the color is opaque. When completely dry, transfer pattern with white transfer paper.

Helpful hint: When transferring the pattern, tape the pattern to the plate so it doesn’t shift. When transferring the pattern, use a colored pen to trace over the line art; this will show that all the details have been transferred.

Painting Instructions White Poinsettias: These flowers are done in layers so the shading is tucked under the petals. Base coat the bottom (0uter) layer of petals with Warm White using the #3 Round. Most of the base coats will need two applications to make them opaque. Shade the petals (where the next layer will overlap) with French Gray Blue using the #10 Shader. Bring the color out to the middle of the petal and soften the shading with the mop. Repeat with the next layer of petals and then again with the top petals. Add the center of the flower with the small stylus. Make a cluster of small dots with Splendid Gold.

Star Flowers: Base coat these flowers with Warm White using the #1Round. Use the #6 Shader and French Grey Blue to shade around the center of each flower. Make a cluster of small dots with Splendid Gold using the small stylus.

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White Berries: The berries are painted Warm White with the #1 Round.

Shade the berries on the bottom next to the stems with the #6 Shader and French Gray Blue.

Snowflakes: Add a touch of water to Warm White to make the paint flow smoothly. With the script liner, paint the snowflakes. Remember that each snowflake is unique so it is okay if they are not absolutely perfect.

Vines, Stems and Leaves: Add a touch of water to Arbor Green and with the script liner add the vines and the stems around the pattern. The leaves along the vine are done with a double load of color in one single stroke. Double load the filbert brush with Arbor Green and Warm White. Lay the brush on the plate and slowly twist the brush so it comes to a point.

Strokes: Add a touch of water to French Gray Blue and add the outer strokes with the script liner. Use French Gray Blue without water and the 10/0 liner and add the smaller strokes to the surface.

Accents: Add Shimmering Silver dots in groups of three randomly around the piece with the large stylus.

Finishing: Erase any remaining transfer lines. Following manufacturer's application instructions, apply several coats of Satin Varnish.

Pattern: The full size line art is labeled “A, B, C�. I have also provided a smaller version that you can enlarge to fit your particular surface.

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Blizzard

By Diane Marie Kellogg – Oil Creek Originals Joining his brother Stormy and big sister Snowy, the third in a series of three lovable kittens‌is Blizzard, all ready to start the holiday celebrations!

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Supplies Surface:  Standard 4” x 8” brick without holes - Available at any home improvement store.

Project Supplies:     

  

Transfer paper (white or black) Ball Stylus White Chalk or Carbon Paper Utility Brush (stiff hand or even a tooth brush) Round Craft Sponge

Faber -Castell PITT Artist Pen – Black SX Snowflake Stencil of choice (Optional) Optional - Red Cheek Chalk (AKA Red Pastel Chalk)

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics   Antique Maroon   Black Plum   Burnt Orange   Deep Midnight Blue   Dove Grey   Heritage Brick

Lamp Black Slate Grey Snow White Soft Black Spice Pink Tangelo Orange

DecoArt Metallic Paint  Shimmering Silver DecoArt Glamour Dust Ultra Fine Glitter  Ice Crystal

    

Tuscan Red Warm Beige Warm White Watermelon Slice Wedgewood Blue

Mediums:  DecoArt DuraClear Matte Varnish  

DecoArt Americana Matte Spray.

(Optional) High Quality Exterior Varnish

Brushes by Royal     

3/4" Aqualon Glaze/Wash; Series R2700 - (For base coating larger areas) 1/2" Angular Shader; Series R2160 - (For shading and high lighting) #’s 5, 6 or 8 Round; Series R2250 - (For base coating smaller areas) Liner, Series 2595, #10/0 - (For line work) 1/2" Soft Grip White Blending Mop; series SG1400 (If desired, for blending)

Preparation

I prefer to use new bricks whenever possible. You can usually find them at most lawn & garden stores, big box home improvement stores, and in season, even at WalMart.

Take a utility brush, old broom or a toothbrush and 'dust' any loose particles. Wipe with a damp rag to remove all residue. Then if it still appears dirty, you can wipe it down with rubbing alcohol or vinegar mixed with water. When using new bricks, usually, just 'dusting' it seems to be enough.

You can undercoat the entire brick with Lamp Black (which makes it much easier to see the pattern transfer lines) or you can transfer the design to the brick and base coat each section individually. Carefully trace your pattern and transfer it to the brick. Use any of the following methods: transfer paper and stylus, white chalk rubbed on the back of line drawing, then traced on or old fashioned carbon paper, traced on.

Painting Instructions Blizzard, the Kitty: Base with Warm White; shade with Dove Grey. Tear a small piece of sponge from the round craft sponge, gently sponge Dove Grey on face, back end and tail of cat.

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Cheeks: His cheeks can be created in one of two ways: You can lightly rub on red “cheek chalk” in a circular motion; or, you can float color on with a brush in any red color from the pattern.

Snowy Frosting: The snowy ‘frosting’ on his head is based with Snow White. (Follow the directions under Finishing for glitter technique.)

Ears: Base with Warm White; shade with Dove Grey.

Shade inner ear with Spice Pink.

Nose: Base his nose with Spice Pink; shade with Heritage Brick. The high light on his nose is done with Warm Beige.

Dots across nose are Warm White.

Mouth & Whiskers: The mouth and whiskers are done with Soft Black.

Eyes: His pupils are Soft Black, as are the lashes. The whites of the eyes and the dots are done with Snow White. The blue is Wedgewood Blue.

Bow: The bow on his tail is based in Tuscan Red; shade with Black Plum. The highlight is done with Watermelon Slice.

Snowy Frosting: The snowy ‘frosting’ on the bow is based with Snow White. (Follow the directions under Finishing for glitter technique.)

Collar & Bell: His collar is based in Tuscan Red; shade with Black Plum. The highlight is done with Watermelon Slice. Stitches across edge are done with the PITT artist pen.

Undercoat the bell with Dove Grey; when dry, apply one or two coats of Shimmering Silver Metallic paint. Shade with Soft Black.

The Snowman: The snowman, affectionately named Fred, is based with Snow White. He is shaded with Slate Grey. His nose is Burnt Orange, shaded with Antique Maroon; the highlight is Tangelo Orange. The snow on his nose is Snow White. (Follow glittering instructions below.)

Fred’s scarf is based in Tuscan Red; shade with Black Plum and highlight with Watermelon Slice.

Fred’s Face: His buttons, eyes and smile are all Soft Black. Do his cheek following directions for the cat’s cheeks.

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Background: The background is Deep Midnight Blue with snow spatters of white.

To spatter: Dip and old toothbrush into some water and tap most of the water off on the side of the water container; dip bristles into Snow White paint, tap out some excess on the palette. Run your thumb across the bristles to create flecks of 'snow' over entire piece. If you have never done this, be sure to practice on paper or an old surface first.

Diane’s Tip: You have the option of lightly misting your surface with one coat of Matte Spray before spattering. With the varnish protection, any misplaced or oversized splatters can easily be wiped away with a damp cotton bud.

Snowflakes on background can be stenciled or painted with Snow White. If desired, you can fill the background with more snowflakes, different sized snowflakes, or personalize with words, names or sayings.

Finishing: Paint the back with Midnight Blue. Seal entire piece with DecoArt Americana Matte Spray. After spraying entire piece with matte spray, allow it to dry completely. The glitter effect is added by going over snow on bow, carrot nose and top of head with brush on matte varnish; while wet (hurry!) sprinkle generously with Glamour Dust. For outdoor use, after sealing with Matte Spray, apply high quality exterior polyurethane of your choice.

Additional surface suggestions: Have fun experimenting with the pattern. Some suggestions‌shrink the cats to pin size and cut from thin wood. Make them slightly bigger and personalize as ornaments; use a paper mache box, paint the design on the top and around the side.

(No gift wrapping necessary!)

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“Cheerio” Snowman

By Martha Smalley

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Absolutely charming, this well dressed snowman shows off his snazzy vest; he keeps track of time with a well placed pocket watch.

Supplies Surface:  Chinese Bottle Gourd, approx 6”; available from amishgourds.com Adjust the pattern as necessary to fit your gourd.

Project Supplies:  3” Electric Drip Look Country Welcome Candle Lamp (From factorydirect.com)  4 ½” Piece of Chain  Bubbles Stencil # THS002 by Tim Holtz  Three Large Snap Closures  One Jar Lid (Approximately 3”)  One Round, Paper Luggage Tag (pattern included)  5” Piece of Red and White Bakers Twine  Three Small Paper Candy Canes – available at Hobby Lobby or Michael’s  ¾” X 10” Strip of Black Checked Homespun  Ultra Fine Point Black Sharpie Pen  Hairdryer, Hot Glue Gun or E6000  Tissue Paper Mediums by DecoArt  Easy Float  DecouPage Medium  Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics  Antique Gold  Canyon Orange  Country Red  Heritage Brick  Lamp Black  Oyster Beige  Soft Black  Warm White

Brushes:  Flats in assorted sizes  Angles in assorted sizes  10/0 Fine Liner  Round Scrubber Brush  Mop

Remember:  Follow all the manufacturers’ label instructions for proper product usage.  Use the color photo as reference for shading and details.  Always allow ample drying time between paint or medium applications.

A hairdryer can be your best friend when it comes to speeding up the drying process!

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Martha’s Techniques Shading: If shading is a challenge for you, try using DecoArt Easy Float. Easy Float is a blending and floating medium for use with acrylic paints. It makes floating color easier for creating shading and highlighting effects on painting projects. Using an angled brush, dip the back in the medium and the tip in the paint. Brush back and forth on your palette until the paint blends slightly into the medium and then paint. Use a mop brush to soften the edge. It is better to use several light coats to achieve the best effect.

Dry Brushing: Load an old, round scruffy brush with paint. Remove most of the paint by brushing it onto a paper towel. Using a light touch, apply the paint in a circular motion.

Line Work and Details: Use the #10/0 for all the line work. Thin the paint with water to an inklike consistency.

Dip Dots: Use a ball stylus, toothpicks and the ends of paintbrushes to add dots to your painted design.

Preparation Sand the gourd lightly to remove any little bumps or imperfections. Seal with two light coats of Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte.

Paint the entire gourd with Oyster Beige.

Adjust the pattern and trace onto *tissue paper first and then transfer the design onto the surface.

Martha Explains: Tissue Paper is easier to bend/wrap around a curved surface; it’s not as stiff as regular tracing paper.

Painting Directions Eyes: Dot the eyes using the end of a paintbrush and Lamp Black; apply a thin line of Lamp Black through each eye. Highlight with a tiny dot of Warm White; shade around the eyes with Soft Black.

Cheeks: Drybrush with Country Red. Nose: Basecoat Canyon Orange; paint on the snow with Warm White. Pull down several icicles from the snow; shade around the nose with Soft Black.

Mouth: Dot the mouth with Lamp Black; line through all the dots with Lamp Black.

Shade under the line with Soft Black; highlight all the dots with Warm White.

Vest: Basecoat Heritage Brick. With Antique Gold and the bubble stencil, apply dots to vest.

Paint the border on the vest with Lamp Black; line the scalloped design with Warm White.

Dot inside each scallop with Warm White; shade around the vest with Soft Black.

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Hint: If you’re going to be working with a hot glue gun, place a small bowl of ice water near your workspace - but NOT near your HOT glue gun. If you accidentally get hot glue on your skin, quickly dip the burned area in the cold water.

Button Snaps: Hot glue the “buttons” into place; shade around them with Soft Black.

Pockets & Watch: Paint the pocket flaps with Lamp Black. Carefully cut out the Pocket Watch whose size is most suitable for your snowman; using DecoArt Decou-Page position the watch and glue into place; hot glue the watch chain into place.

Details: Do not glue the scarf into place yet!

Paint the jar lid Lamp Black and hot glue to the top of the snowman’s head; hot glue the candle to the top of the jar lid.

Spatter paint the piece lightly with Warm White.

Spray the piece with Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte.

Snowman Tag: Prepare the snowman tag by painting the nose Canyon Orange; drybrush the cheeks with Country Red. Use the Sharpie Pen to dot the eyes and line the x’s for the mouth. Tie to the candlelight with Baker’s Twine.

If you don’t have a round tag, 3 sizes of line art are included; print on heavy card stock and paint as desired.

Paper Candy Canes: Make a bundle of the three candy canes; tie with Baker’s Twine; position them on the hat near the base of the candle and glue in place.

Scarf: Cut the homespun strip to size and glue into place for the snowman’s scarf.

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-

Grandma’s Gingerbread Cookies

By Vicki Saum Nothing says warm and cozy like a cup of cocoa and Grandma’s Gingerbread cookies. I’ve included the recipe for these tasty cookies. So paint the tin and then fill it with homemade goodness! Once the cookies are gone, you have a nostalgic tin that will be a great decoration well past the holidays!

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Supplies Surface:  I painted this design on a tin but it would look great on any surface.

Project Supplies:  Dish Soap  White Vinegar  Lint Free Cloth/Rags  Medium Grit Sandpaper  Old Toothbrush or Spatter Tool  Palette Knife

Standard Painting Supplies including  Paper Towels  Pencil  Water Bin,  Palette Paper  Ball Stylus in Different Sizes  Tracing Paper  Black Graphite

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics  Antique White  Avocado,  Burnt Umber  Heritage Brick,  Hauser Medium Green  Lamp Black,  Light Cinnamon,  Traditional Burnt Umber  True Red

Mediums and Sealers-Finishes:  Americana Matte Sealer/Finisher Spray  Americana Multi -Purpose Sealer  Americana Staining/Antiquing Medium  Americana Decou-Page Matte

Brushes: Use your favorites  Flats  Angles  Liners  Mop Preparation: Clean the can well with hot soapy water. Sand any rust and wipe clean with white vinegar.

To ensure good adhesion, mix Antique White and American Multi Purpose Sealer (1:1) and basecoat the entire can with this mix. When dry, mix Traditional Burnt Umber paint with Staining/Antiquing Medium and brush over the entire basecoat; wipe away some of the color with an old rag. If desired, add a little more of the antiquing to some areas to create a more aged appearance. Once the surface is completely dry, use gentle pressure to transfer pattern lines.

Painting Instructions: Border: Paint the border around the gingerbread with Heritage Brick. The inside area is Hauser Medium Green. Dry brush to high light the green area with a little Antique White. Shade next to border with Avocado; shade around outer border with Burnt Umber.

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Gingerbread man: The gingerbread man is Light Cinnamon; shade outer edge with Burnt Umber; dry brush a little with Antique White.

The icing is Antique White.

Cheeks: Dry brush with True Red. Scarf : Heritage Brick, the plaid is Antique White; shade where the scarf crosses and underneath with Burnt Umber. Add fringe with Antique White and Heritage Brick.

Eyes: Create dip dots with the end of your liner and Lamp Black, when dry use your stylus to add a small dip dot to the top of each eye with Antique White.

Button: Dip dots of Lamp Black, with an Antique White high light.

Recipe Card: Print two of the recipe cards and cut out close to the design.

Apply a light coat of Americana Decou-page Matte to the surface and to the back of the recipe card and apply to can, see placement on the pattern. I like to thin the medium with a little with water. The 2nd card can be placed on the top of the lid.

Apply a light coat of medium to the top and let dry. Dip dots on the border are Antique White.

Cookies: I placed the cookies randomly around the can, you can look at the picture to see where I painted mine, or you may place as many as you like. The cookies are Light Cinnamon, shade outer edge with Burnt Umber. Dry brush tips of stars with a little Antique White. Icing is Antique White. Sprinkles are little dip dots of True Red and Hauser Medium Green.

Lettering: The lettering is Lamp Black. When dry, accent the letters with a dry brush highlight of Antique White.

The Scrolls have little leaves of Hauser Medium Green and Heritage Brick dip dots.

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Finishing: I shaded around all the cookies and recipe cards with Burnt Umber. My can had a rim so I painted a 1/2 inch check around the edge with Lamp Black. The handles were painted Lamp Black. I used an old toothbrush and palette knife and splattered the can with Lamp Black. (dip the end of the toothbrush into a small amount of paint and run the knife across the bristles pulling the knife toward you, practice on a piece of paper to get the feel first). When dry, spray with a coat of Americana Matte Finish Spray Sealer-Finisher. If you have a question please feel free to contact me at vickisaum@sbcglobal.net Hope you enjoy this pattern! Thank You!

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I Love You To the Moon and Back

by Mila Marchetti There's something special about receiving hand-written letter. When I open my mailbox and find a wonderful postcard or a friend’s letter, I'm so happy. After I read them and write back, I put the letters in my special wall envelope, because the important things must have a special location!

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Supplies: Surface  Bisque ceramic wall envelope (8.5” x 2” x 8.25) - Available at “Ceramiche Giglioni” City: Deruta (PG) Italy E-mail: info@giglioniceramiche.com Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics  Baby Blue DA042 DA172  Black Plum  Burnt Orange DA016  Burnt Umber DA064  Crimson Tide DA021  French Grey Blue DA098  Indian Turquoise DA087  Jade Green DA057  Khaki Tan DA173 DecoArt Americana Neons:  Fiery Red DHS4

        

Lamp(Ebony)Black DA067 Light Buttermilk DA164 Limeade DA206 Marigold DA194 Plantation Pine DA113 Rookwood Red DA097 Snow White DA01 Soft Black DA155 Uniform Blue DA086

DecoArt Glamour Dust  Ice Crystal DGD09

Mediums by DecoArt Americana:  Multi Purpose Sealer DS17  Snow Tex – Glittering Snow DS46  Spray Sealer DAS13 Brushes by Loew-Cornell:  Series 7550 Wash ½”, 3/4”  Series 7500 Filbert # 8  Series 7000 Round #1  Series 7050 Liner # 10/0  Series 270 Maxine’s Mop 3/8”  Series DM Stippler 1/4"

Project Supplies: In addition to your regular supplies, please have  Star Stencil with random size stars  Paper Towels, Water Basin  Tracing Paper, Transfer Paper, Ball Stylus

Preparation: Apply DecoArt Multi-Purpose sealer to the entire surface.

Transfer only the horizontal and the verticals lines to create the rectangular sections. Paint the areas with Rookwood Red and French Vanilla.

Using the 3/4” Wash brush side-loaded with Black Plum shade the red sections; with the same brush and Marigold, shade the yellow sections.

Apply the pattern for all four snowmen and base them with Light Buttermilk. Paint the hats with Lamp Black.

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Instructions: Little snowmen (without hat) Using the 3/4” Wash side-loaded with Burnt Umber, shade around the snowmen; tint with a side load of French Grey Blue along the left side of the face (for the left snowman) and the right side of the face (for the right snowman). Highlight with side load of Snow White to the opposite sides.

Apply the pattern for the facial features. Fill in the eyes, brows and mouth with the fine Liner and Lamp Black; the noses are Burnt Orange. Shade the bottom of the noses with a bit of Burnt Umber; use the #10/0 Liner loaded with Snow White, stroke the top of the noses with a very fine line and highlight the eyes. The cheeks are dry brushed on using the 3/8” Mop and Burnt Orange.

Outline the bodies with Burnt Umber. Transfer the arms and hearts details; fill in with Burnt Umber and Khaki Tan. Stripe and shade the hearts with Burnt Umber. Tip the brush in a bit of Snow White and add the highlights. Float along the neck, just under the arms and hearts with Burnt Umber. Use the fine Liner to add a Lamp Black bow and highlight with Snow White.

Trees: Transfer the trees details. Use the 10/0 Liner loaded with Burnt Umber to paint the trunks and the twigs. Using the 1/2” Wash side loaded with Burnt Umber, shade along the main trunks (both sides) and the twigs. With the fine Liner and thinned Plantation Pine and Jade Green, paint the fine needles on the limbs. Dots the berries using the stylus and Crimson Tide; highlight with Fiery Red. Snowmen with Hat: Paint the hat bands with Khaki Tan. Dry brush the hats and the hat bands with 3/8” Mop and Snow White. Apply the pattern for the facial features. Fill in the eyes, lashes, brows and mouth with Lamp Black; basecoat the noses with Burnt Orange; shade the bottoms of noses with a bit of Burnt Umber.

Using the # 10/0 Liner loaded with Snow White, stroke the top of the noses with a very fine line.

Using the 1/2” Wash side-loaded with Burnt Umber, shade just under the hats. Highlight the chin areas with Snow White.

The cheeks are dry brushed on with the 3/8” Mop and Burnt Orange.

Trees: Transfer the trees details. Load the 10/0 Liner loaded with Burnt Umber; paint the trunks and the twigs; shade along both sides of the main trunks and the twigs with the ½” Wash side-loaded in Burnt Umber. With the fine Liner and thinned Plantation Pine and Jade Green, paint the needles on the limbs.

Use the stylus and Crimson Tide to create berries; highlight with Fiery Red. Left bird: Transfer the details; base the face and wing with Baby Blue; base the apron with Light Buttermilk and Khaki Tan. Using the # 8 Filbert and Snow White, dry brush the body. Lightly shade the left side of the face and the wing area with the # 6 Filbert loaded with French Grey Blue. Avoiding the shadow, dry brush the top of the head and wing with Snow White.

Apply the eye and beak details. Use the # 10/0 Liner loaded with Lamp Black, base the eye, lashes and brows; highlight the eye with Snow White and Indian Turquoise. Base the beak with Camel and shade with Burnt Orange; add the nostril and the separation line with Lamp Black.

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The cheek is dry brushed with the 3/8” Mop and Crimson Tide; dot with Snow White.

Load a dry 3/8” Mop with Burnt Umber and scrub the bristles on the palette. Then softly dry bush the apron and the body. Highlight in the open area with a touch of Snow White. Stitch the edges of the apron with # 10/0 Liner loaded in Burnt Umber. Add dots with the stylus and Snow White.

Right bird: Base coat with a #8 Filbert loaded with washy Khaki Tan; let dry. Now drybrush the same areas with Khaki Tan on a dry #8 Filbert; scrub the bristles on the palette and gently start to stroke on the head and wing. Load dry Filbert in Snow White and gently base the chin, neck and belly. Dry brush between the wing and just under the wing using the 3/8” Mop and Burnt Umber; dry brush the head and the wing with thinned Snow White.

Apply the eye and beak details. Use the # 10/0 Liner loaded with Lamp Black to base the eye, lashes and brows; highlight the eye with Snow White and Indian Turquoise. Paint the beak with Camel and Lamp Black; shade the Camel area with a touch of Burnt Orange. The cheek is dry brushed on using 3/8”Mop and Crimson Tide; dot with Snow White.

Branch and Feet: Apply the details of branch and twigs. Paint them with the # 1 Round and an ink like consistency of Soft Black, Burnt Umber, Khaki Tan and Snow White; move in and out of these colors. Transfer the feet details and paint the feet with Soft Black.

Stars: Using the 1/4” DM Stippler, randomly stencil some stars with Snow White and some stars with Jade Green. Tap the brush slightly on a damp paper towel before stencilling. On the dangling star between the birds, add stripes with a 10/0 Liner loaded with Limeade; add Glamour Dust to all the green stars, let dry and dot the center of some stars with Limeade.

Lettering: Transfer the words “just a sprinkle of fairy dust” and paint with Snow White and a fine Liner; add accent dots with ball stylus and Limeade. Add the bow with Lamp Black.

Snow: Using the # 8 Filbert and thinned, washy Snow White, add the snow under the trees and snowmen. If you want the snow to have texture, side load a moistened # 8 Filbert with Snow Tex and apply it on the ground. Spatter over the stars with thinned Snow White and an old brush.

Finishing: When the painting is dry, varnish the surface as you prefer.

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Snowman Paddle Board

By Karen Wisner Pixelated Palette

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This snowman paddle board is a great last minute gift or to make for craft shows. He works up very quickly. Paint him on any surface as he would look great on an old ironing board, wine bottle or anything that doesn't move! Have lots of fun painting our new friend.

Supplies: Surface:  Wood Paddle Board #103565 (14" x 4 3/4" x 1/4") Available from www.cabincrafters.com Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics:  Avocado DA052  Burnt Sienna DA063  Dark Chocolate DA065  Deep Midnight Blue DA065  French Grey Blue DA098  Graphite DA161 DA163  Honey Brown  Jade Green DA057 DA067  Lamp Black

       

Light Buttermilk Milk Chocolate Moon Yellow Shading Flesh Snow White Tangerine Tuscan Red Winter Blue

DA164 DA174 DA07 DA137 DA01 DA012 DA265 DA190

Mediums:  Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte DAS13 Brushes:  Round sizes 1 through 8  Flat Wash 3/4"  Shaders 14 & 20  Script Liners (long bristles) 5/0, 10/0 & 20/0  Mop 1/4 & 1/2  Fabric Rounds 2  Old 1/4" Angular & #1 Round (to stipple snow)

Project Supplies:  Black Micron Pen 01  Stylus,Dark Transfer Paper  Tracing Paper  Cotton Swabs  Small Sea Sponge (Optional)

Helpful Tip: As you paint, refer to the pattern, for shading (///) and highlights.

“Which brush do I use?”  Round Brushes for basecoats  3/4" flat wash to float background areas  Shaders to float color, shade and highlight  5/0 Script Liner to paint the large vines  10/0 Script Liner to paint cracks and details  20/0 to paint fine detail lines and highlight strokes  Mops to blend floated areas.  Fabric Rounds (or Scumblers) to drybrush inner highlights and cheeks  Use the old brushes to stipple snow and the wreath  Cotton Swab as a mini mop.

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Preparation: 1. Sand wood surface and wipe away dust. Cover the entire board with Light Buttermilk. Repeat for two more layers, allowing paint to dry before applying another coat. After the paint is dry, sand again lightly and wipe all dust away.

2. Trace pattern onto tracing paper using the Black Micron Pen. 3. Transfer the basic design lines onto the board, using the small end of a stylus and transfer paper.

Transfer the detail lines as needed.

Instructions: Did you know…like so many of us, Karen is a self taught painter? She has developed a basecoating technique that she calls “Floating a Wash Color”. This technique is used to achieve a graduated color for certain basecoat areas. First, wet the surface so it’s damp; next load your brush as if you are side load floating but with more paint than you ordinarily use for shading, Apply the paint in the same manner as floating. Use the mop or cotton swab to soften and blend color. While it’s drying, move to another section. Karen says “I work from top to bottom so I never run into a wet paint area”.

Sky Background, Snow, Snowman: Float color onto the background sky, snowman and snow areas using French Grey Blue. Let dry, and repeat another layer of color. (Two soft layers of color are better than one that is too dark.)

Remember to allow sufficient drying time between each application of paint!

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Snowman and Snow: Hat: Basecoat the hat using Graphite; let dry. Shade the hat with Lamp Black; float and drybrush highlights using French Grey Blue. Paint cracks and stitches using Lamp Black. Stipple snow using Snow White.

Star: Basecoat with Burnt Sienna. Using an old brush, stipple Graphite to make it look "rusty"; highlight using Moon Yellow. When painting the rusty star, I use an old # 1 brush or tiny piece of sea sponge to apply the layer of Graphite. This allows better control of the darker areas. Make sure to allow some of the first color to show as well.

Carrot Nose: Basecoat Tangerine; shade with Burnt Sienna.

Snowman’s body: Stipple with Snow White to give it the "fluffy" look.

Use more on the outer edges of the body, where the snowman is next to snow of the background.

Cheeks: Drybrush using Shading Flesh.

Eyes, brows and mouth: Lamp Black Twig Arms: Float Milk Chocolate; shade arms with Dark Chocolate; paint details on the arms.

Hangtag: Shade hangtag using Honey Brown, let dry. Deepen shading on the tag using Milk Chocolate, let dry; paint crack details. Once the paint is dry, ink or paint "Let it Snow" using Lamp Black; paint hole.

Wreath: Stipple first layer using Jade Green.

Pear: Moon Yellow House: Tuscan Red and the roof using Graphite Bow: Float color onto the bow using Winter Blue Wreath: Stipple 2nd layer of color with Avocado, allow some of the first color to show Pear: Shade with Burnt Sienna. Paint the stem Dark Chocolate. Drybrush highlights Snow White.

House: Tuscan Red; roof is Graphite. Shade house using Graphite, let dry; paint the chimneys, windows and door with Graphite. Highlight roof and door using Winter Blue Bow: Shade the bow using Deep Midnight Blue; two layers of shade are in the darkest areas. With Snow White, paint highlight strokes. (See photo) Crow: basecoat Graphite; shade Lamp Black; highlight Winter Blue. Eye is Lamp Black.

Holly and Large Berries: Basecoat holly Jade Green; basecoat berries Tuscan Red. Shade holly with Avocado; shade the berries with Graphite.

Highlight the holly and berries using Moon Yellow,.

Paint Avocado detail lines on the holly leaves.

Paint Lamp Black berry ends.

Float Tuscan Red onto the holly leaves (see photos).

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Vines, Boughs, Berries, Small Snow Areas and Snow Dots: Paint vines using Dark Chocolate.

Boughs: Paint With Avocado, let dry. Paint lighter boughs on the snowman hat with Jade Green.

Dot Tuscan Red berries; use both ends of the ball stylus for different sizes.

Make snow areas on vines, large berries and by the house using Snow White.

Dot large snowflakes using the tip of a liner brush and Snow White.

Finishing: Following manufacturer’s instructions, spray the entire painted surface using Matte Spray Varnish; let dry then repeat.

Any questions or concerns, please contact me: Karen Wisner: kdolls.designs@gmail.com or www.homespuncountrycollectibles.com

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The Gift

By Sharon K. Hammond

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Mr. Snowman is so grateful to receive a special gift just for him. In this fun project you will learn to paint a banner on Roclon with stippling, how to shade and highlight pleats to look like fabric and cut a decorative bottom edge. Enjoy!

Supplies Surface:  12W by 18L Roclon Multi Purpose Fabric available from bearwithusinc.com (this is the cutting size before adding the 2 inch rod pocket for the hanging rod).

Project Supplies: (In addition to your regular painting supplies)  Snowflake Mini Stencil 4 x 4 #STCL 727 from Creative Arts Lifestyle.com  Quilted Diamond Pattern Stencil 6x6 #STCL 1025 from Creative Arts Lifestyle.com  2 inch Sponge Roller  Ruler  Masking Tape  Eraser  Ball Stylus  Rough Stippling Brush from Artist Club Item #70597 Optional Supplies for Hanging the Banner:  ¼ W by 12 L wooden dowel  Aleene’s Fast Grab Tacky Glue or a strong glue (not a hot glue)  26 inch piece of small chain  Ruler and Pencil  Key Ring Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics   Baby Blue  Baby Blue   Black Green   Black Plum   Blue Chiffon   Boysenberry Pink   Burnt Umber   Colonial Blue 

Deep Burgundy Deep Midnight Blue Graphite Grey Sky Jade Green Lamp Black Light Avocado Oyster Beige

      

Payne’s Grey Plantation Pine Silver Sage Green Snow White Warm White Wedgewood Blue Neons Fiery Red

Brushes:  Papillon #0 Liner by The Artist Club  Loew-Cornell Maxine’s Mop 270-38, 270-1/2, 270-3/4  Royal Gold Round #3  Royal Fusion 3150 #6, #8. #12 and ½ inch.  Papillon Double Ender #20190 Mediums:  Spray Varnish of choice

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Preparation: Cut the Roclon 12 inches W by 18 inches L using scissors or a rotary cutter. I suggest that you add the rod pocket before you start painting. Here are the instructions for how I hang my banners. The supplies are listed above under Miscellaneous Supplies. You can purchase the chain and the key ring at any hardware store.

Measure from the top edge of the Roclon down 2 inches and draw a pencil line. Add a bead of glue on this line. Lay the wooden rod into the glue and press it in securely. Let this dry at least an hour so it is secure. Fold the top edge of the banner so that the rod is at the top. Pin down the Roclon in place.

Stitch using a sewing machine close to the edge. If you do not have a sewing machine, run a bead of the glue along the edge and weight it down till it is dry. This glue will give you a permanent hold.

Feed the chain through the pocket and attach both ends of the chain to the key ring. Hang by the key ring.

Since I paint the entire background before adding the design, there is no need to seal Roclon. Just basecoat, let dry completely, and add the pattern.

Painting Instructions: Background: On the palette (I use a Styrofoam plate) add 2 puddles of paint; one of Warm White; the other Baby Blue. Dampen the sponge roller with water and squeeze out the excess water. Dip the roller into the Baby Blue paint and roll it out to cover the roller. Now dip the roller into the Warm White and blend the two colors together slightly.

Start filling in the background by moving the roller in a slip-slap motion in every direction. You want to have a molted look like daytime. Push the roller firmly onto the Roclon so that the paint gets into the fabric. Re-load the roller and continue until the entire banner is painted. Let dry (you can speed this process up with a hair dryer if you wish).

Measure up 2 inches from the bottom of the banner and draw a line across. This is where the pattern for the ruffle will go. Add the pattern to this section using graphite and a stylus.

Now place the pattern for the Snowman directly above the pencil line for the ruffle. Lay the pattern for the tree limbs and mittens in the upper left corner about an inch from the top (IF YOU HAVE THE POCKET ALREADY IN PLACE. Otherwise, you will have to measure down for the pocket to find the top of the banner and line the pattern up that way). Tape the pattern down and add graphite underneath and add the pattern lines using a stylus. Do not trace any of the detail at this time.

They will be added later.

Painting the Snowman’s body: Base coat the head and body of the snowman with a wash of Oyster Beige. Just slip-slap the paint on using a ½ Royal Fusion Flat. You want the blue undercoat to show through so don’t fuss with this base coat too much. It is just to brighten him up a bit.

Next we are going to stipple the face and body of the snowman using the Rough Stippling brush and four colors: Colonial Blue, Wedgewood Blue, Payne’s Grey and Warm White. Note: If you do not have the Rough Stippling brush, just use a large deerfoot stippler brush instead.

Starting with the Colonial Blue and a barely damp Rough Stippling brush, dip the brush into the paint and pounce it out onto a surface (I use a Styrofoam plate) to work the paint into the brush. Pounce the color over the entire face and body area. Don’t worry if you get paint on the other areas, they will be painted over. Just a light coat at first; follow with Warm White. This brush makes a nice “speckled

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look”. Using a paper towel, wipe out as much paint as you can and then pounce into the Wedgewood Blue. Lightly stipple; this color is intense so apply lightly; you don’t want to lose the colors underneath.

When this stippling is dry, use a #12 Flat and Wedgewood Blue, omitting the chin area on the face, shade all around the outer edges of the face and body; shade behind the heart too. Use a Mop to soften the shading.

With Warm White, stipple again right over the shading and the rest of the head and body to brighten.

Deepen the shading with Payne’s Grey; highlight with Warm White opposite the shading on the thumbs, on the body behind the arms, where the arms crease and where his chin is.

Eyes and Nose: Transfer the facial features. Fill in the eyes and nose with Graphite; make sure to keep the outer edges wavy like charcoal. When dry, using a dabby-dabby motion with the brush, add Black to the eyes and nose. This is not solid coverage just to bring some color and shape to look more like coal.’

With Graphite and using a # 8 flat/shader, make an arch over each eye for an eyelid. Now using a liner and Black, add the bottom lashes to the eyes. The top lashes will be added after the hat is finished.

Shade using Payne’s Grey all around the outer edges of the eyes from the outer bottom lashes around to the inner lashes. Mop for softness. This will set the eyes into the snowman’s head.

Highlighting the Eyes: Corner load your brush with White; work it out on the palette to get a nice graduation of soft color. On the right side of each eye, create a highlight; positioned from 6 o’clock to 12 o’clock. (refer to photo above) Mop this shading; now shade on the left of the White float with Wedgewood Blue to make the blue part of the eye.

With White and a small dry brush (make sure to wipe out most of the paint on a paper towel first) dab the brush where the highlight dot will go to make a shadow under the dot. This is very light so just dab the brush lightly to lay a small amount of paint. Now using a stylus and White add the dot over the dry brushing.

Also add a highlight line at 5 o’clock using a liner and White. Add a very small dot at the bottom of this highlight. Add the highlight on the Nose the same way as the eyes but add a few small dots for the highlight.

Nose & Mouth: Fill the mouth in with Black and shade underneath it with Payne’s Grey; shade under the nose with Payne’s Grey. Add a highlight dash slightly to the right of center on the mouth.

Highlight details: With White, highlight under each eye from the outside of the lashes from right to left. Using a small dry brush and White, brighten up the Snowman between the eyes and in the middle of each arm; sideload White on a flat shader and highlight above the lip and at the chin.

Cheeks: Using a medium size dry brush and Boysenberry Pink (wipe off on the paper towel really well again for the cheeks) brush on the cheeks. With a stylus, add a highlight dot at the top of each cheek.

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Snowman’s Hat: To conceal the stippling from the snowman, before basecoating with Light Avocado, undercoat with a wash of White; this will also brighten the green color. Base coat the entire hat with Light Avocado; when dry, transfer the pattern with white graphite.

Ribbing: You will create the ribbing on the brim with back to back floats. Side load a #12 flat/shader with Plantation Pine; first shade on one side of the rib; then float shade color right next to your first float but on the opposite of the ribbing line.

Hint: Shade one side and then flip the project around and shade the other side.

Deepen the shading with Black Green on the ribbing just above the head area going about ½ inch up.

Deepen the shading behind the ribbing at the top, at the creases on the top of the hat, along the outside of the ear flaps.

Highlight at the top of the ribbing with Silver Sage Green. Also dry brush in the open areas of the hat: on the flaps, between the creases on the top of the hat, and in the center of the ribbing following the curve of the hat. Refer to the shading/highlighting guide for placement. This is light, so wipe out that dry brush well on a paper towel. If you need to, brighten up the center highlight by adding Warm White to the same brush. The tie for the hat and the pom pom will both be completed further on in the painting process.

Eye Lashes: Now that the hat is finished, the lashes can be added. Thin Black with water to an ink consistency; using a #0 liner, start filling in the lashes. First with the long ones and then add shorter lashes in between the long lashes; finally, line around the eyes keeping the edges wavy.

Scarf: Omitting the two solid color sections at the end of the scarf, basecoat the remaining area of the scarf with Grey Sky; let dry.

Lightly transfer the plaid lines from the pattern. Before we continue adding color, mark the 2 sections of the scarf to separate them; use a pencil line or a White chalk pencil. Refer to the shading/highlighting guide for placement.

Creating Plaid: Starting with the tails of the scarf, paint the Light Avocado stripes with thinned paint using a #6 flat/shader. As you apply these vertical stripes, leave equal areas of Grey Sky showing; this will create the two color plaid of Grey Sky and Light Avocado.

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Continue painting the scarf one section at a time: Back Tail, Front Tail, and under Chin.

Next add the horizontal stripe with thinned Graphite; with Wedgewood Blue and using a #0 liner, add a thin stripe between the Graphite stripes. (Refer to photograph for placement)Shade all around the scarf with Graphite. Softly deepen the shading with Black.

With Warm White, highlight on the inside of the tails on the opposite side of the shading; also on the 2 sections above the shading; dry brush with Warm White in the center of the tails and in the open areas of the scarf.

Scarf Trim: Paint the section closest to the plaid with Wedgewood Blue; the very bottom of the scarf is Grey Sky. Shade the Wedgewood Blue section with Deep Midnight Blue with just a tiny touch of Black added to the paint. Blend the 2 together to make a deeper shade. Shade the Grey Sky area with Graphite. Add a snowflake with a stencil to the center of the Wedgewood Blue area with Warm White and highlight the Grey Sky area by dry brushing in the center with Warm White.

Transfer the pattern for the tie for the hat and base coat with Light Avocado. Using a liner and Black Green, add slanted lines to the tie. Shade with Black Green and highlight with Warm White. Refer to the shading/highlighting guide for placement.

Heart: Base coat the heart with Warm White. Then paint over this base coat with two coats of Deep Burgundy. Lay the Quilted Diamond stencil over the heart and using a dry brush and Black Plum, stencil the heart.

Shade around the heart with Black Plum; line dashes around the stenciling with Warm White using a #0 liner. Add a dot in the center of the design with Warm White. Highlight in the open areas of the heart with Neons Fiery Red using a small dry brush.

Create the scallop lace around the heart with a liner and Warm White; use ball stylus and Warm white to add dots at each arch of the lace.

Holly & Berries on Heart: Transfer the pattern for the holly & berries. Basecoat the leaves with Light Avocado; shade around the leaves with Plantation Pine. Line the veins in the leaves with Black Green using a liner; line the outer edges of the leaves using a liner and Black Green. Add the berries using a stylus or the end of a paint brush by double dipping into Deep Burgundy and Black Plum.

Highlight each berry with a tiny Warm White dot.

Branches and pine needles: Add the pattern for the branches; using a #3 Round, paint the branches with Burnt Umber. Add the pine needles with a #0 liner starting with thinned Light Avocado; repeat adding more needles with Plantation Pine and then with Jade Green.

Shade along the branches, over the needles with Plantation Pine. When this shading is dry, you can add the Warm White needles on the tips of the branches using a #3 round. Add a few here and there among the branches also.

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To add the Warm White needles, you will need to pull these needles “inward” instead of pulling them out and away like the green needles.

Add the berries using a stylus or the end of a paint brush by double dipping into Deep Burgundy and Black Plum.

Mittens: Base coat the mittens with Wedgewood Blue.

When dry, use the Rough Stippling Brush to lightly stipple Baby Blue over the mittens. Wipe the brush out on paper towel, dip into Deep Midnight Blue and stipple on top of the Baby Blue. This is just to add some color so go lightly on this stippling.

Shade around the mitten with Payne’s Grey; refer to the shading/highlighting guide for shade placement. Add the lines on the cuffs using a liner and Payne’s Grey. Highlight where the two mittens cross over each other and add a dry brush highlight in the center of each cuff with Warm White.Add a snowflake using a stencil (you can use any stencil that you have that will fit in the center of each mitten) using Warm White.

Using a dry brush and Warm White, lightly highlight the center of each snowflake by moving the brush in a circle starting at the center of the snowflake.

Add some highlight to the string of the mittens using a liner and Warm White.

Tag: Basecoat the tag with Oyster Beige. Shade around the tag with Burnt Umber, darker in the corners; add dots to the corners using a stylus and Deep Burgundy. Add the lettering using a liner and Black or you can use a Black permanent marker. Highlight the open areas with Warm White using a dry brush. Add the hanging string to the tag with Warm White. Make sure that you have part of the string going behind the branch.

Shading: Before you can add the pom-pom to the hat and the fringe on the scarf, you need to shade all around the outside of the snowman, scarf, hat, mittens, tag (shade just on the right side and along the bottom) around the entire outer edges using Deep Midnight Blue and a #12 flat/shader. Use a mop to keep the water edge soft.

Scarf Fringe: To add the fringe, you will need to make several small puddles of thinned paint: Light Avocado, Plantation Pine, Black Green, Wedgewood Blue and Warm White. Using a #0 liner start adding the fringe using the paints in the order as above.

After you are done adding the fringe, shade along the bottom edge, and the top of the fringe, with Deep Midnight Blue to set the fringe into the scarf. Add dots with Light Avocado using the end of a paint brush.

Pom-pom on hat: I do the fringe on my pom-poms in 3 steps. You will be using the same colors as the fringe on the scarf omitting the Wedgewood Blue. Make a circle (I used a paint bottle for my circle) and start pulling out the fringe from the

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pencil line of the circle, layering the colors. Next, move inside of the circle about ¼ inch and start pulling the fringe again. The last step is pulling the fringe from the center of the circle, adding more white in the center.

Bottom pleated ruffle: Add the pattern for the bottom ruffle. At the bottom of each pleat there is a small section that is a shadow for the underside of the ruffle. After painting so many of these ruffles on my banners, I have learned a trick or two. I have found that by painting these small sections first, it is easier to find the placement for the pleats. Refer to the pattern for guidance.

Paint these small shadow sections with Wedgewood Blue; shade the top part of each one with Payne’s Grey; highlight the bottom edge with Blue Chiffon. Now that these are painted, you can base coat the rest of the ruffle with Wedgewood Blue. Lay the pattern over the base coat and add the pleat lines with graphite.

Stencil over the entire ruffle using the Snowflake Mini Pattern Stencil and Warm White.

Shade on the right side of the pleats on the left side with Payne’s Grey and on the left side of the pleats on the right side. Highlight on the opposite side of the shading with Blue Chiffon. Mop this shading to keep soft. Using a dry brush and Blue Chiffon (make sure to wipe off almost all of the paint out of the brush) and dry brush next to the highlighting.

Go back and deepen any shading that needs it. You want the darks dark and the highlights bright.

Using a liner and Warm White, line around the pleats. It is the dark line on the pattern for you to use as a guide.

Now using scissors, cut along the bottom of the ruffle, MAKING SURE not to cut off the underside sections that you painted first.

Highlighting: Using a dry brush and Warm White, add highlights between the mittens and the snowman, below the scarf, and above the branches to brighten up the background.

Finishing: Let the banner dry completely and then spray it with 2 coats of a Matte Varnish.

You will now add the chain and key ring and you are ready to hang the beautiful banner on the door!

I hope that you enjoyed painting this banner. His jolly face makes me smile! It truly is better to give that to receive.

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“Belly Whoppin’ and Slippery Slidin’ Lazy Susan”

By Sharon Cook This holiday season; add an enchanting snowflake lazy Susan to your winter-themed décor. The frosty snowflakes, drifts of sparkling snow, and fun-loving snowmen gleefully belly-whoppin’ and slippery-slidin’ around the center of this distinctive piece are a complete delight. The edges of this lazy Susan are enhanced by snowflake cutouts which have been brought to life by glitzy glitter and sparkle. Don’t forget the frozen friend standing upright in the center; he is actually a snowman finial used to spin the lazy Susan around. Slip-slap and wet-on-wet blending techniques are used to create the muted and multi-colored background tones. This project is so much fun to create and is one that you will proudly display for many years to come.

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Supplies: Surface: Available from Creative Arts Lifestyle  Frosty Flakes Lazy Susan Panel; approximately 16.5” in diameter; item # WDSF394; http://creativeartslifestyle.com/frosty-flakes-lazy-susan-panel.html  Lazy Susan Base; approximately 9” in diameter; item # WDSF198; http://creativeartslifestyle.com/lazy-susan-base.html  Banding Stencil A – 1 /8” bands (STCL188); item # SPGP033; http://creativeartslifestyle.com/a-b-banding-stencils.html ● Snowman on Snowflake finial is available from Bear With Us https://www.bearwithusinc.com/proddetail.php?prod=2109

Paints by DecoArt Americana:  Blue Violet DA141  Cadmium Orange DA014  Calypso Blue DA234  Charcoal Grey DA088  Desert Cactus DA331  Dioxazine Purple DA101  Dragon Fruit DA300  Fawn DA242  Forest Green DA050  Frosted Plum DA335  Grape Juice DA236  Grey Sky DA111  Grey Storm DA328  Lamp (Ebony) Black DA067 Mediums/Other Products by DecoArt: ● Americana Multi-purpose Sealer ● Americana DuraClear Satin Varnish ● Americana Glazing Medium

            

Lemonade DA252 Light Cinnamon DA114 Melon DA251 Moon Yellow DA007 Mulberry DA294 Peacock Teal DA326 Pumpkin DA013 Slate Grey DA068 Ultra Blue Deep DA100 Warm White DA239 Whispering Turquoise DA305 Glamour Dust—Ice Crystal Glamour Dust—Purple Princess

DS17 DS21 DS18

Brushes by Loew-Cornell: ● La Corneille Script Liner, Sizes 10/0 and 18/0 (Series 7050) ● La Corneille Angular Shader, Size 1/2” (Series 7400) ● Loew-Cornell Crescent, Size 1/2” (Series 247) ● Debbie Mitchell Stippler, Size 1/2” (Series DM) ● Loew Cornell Fabric Dye, Size 14 (Series Fab) ● Loew Cornell Tapered White Bristle Stencil Brush, Bulb Handle, 3 /4” (Series 222) ● Loew-Cornell Soft Comfort Filbert, Size 12 (Series 24500)

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Miscellaneous Supplies: ● Mini snowflake stencils of your choice ● Jumbo dauber tool, # TOOL418; http://creativeartslifestyle.com ● Paper Towels, Water basin , Cotton swabs ● Stylus, Grey and white transfer paper ● Tack Cloth, Old Tooth Brush Slip-Slap, Wet-on-Wet Blending Technique:  Slip-slap painting and wet-on-wet blending mean different things to different painters. For my designs, I use these terms to generally mean that layers of paint of different colors or hues have been lightly stroked, brush-blended, or dabbed together in layers while the paint is still wet, in a random and irregular manner which results in a mottled and variegated appearance once it has all dried.  This is usually accomplished by adding glazing medium or some type of extender to the paint to thin it slightly, and allow the paint to easily blend with other wet paint that has been applied to the surface. As layers of wet paint are built up and slip-slapped, dabbed, and brushed together, they blend and streak in wonderful ways. This streaking is a beautiful effect, as are the subtle color combinations which result when colors are blended together in this manner. My only caution is do not overwork the strokes, which could eliminate too much of the streaking and leave you with “muddy” color. Also, it’s generally best to have a hint of the basecoat color shining through to add a bit of “flavor” to the overall appearance.  Many types of brushes or tools may be used for this technique, each creates a slightly different look. I prefer to use large filbert brushes with soft bristles because their domed shape generally leaves a soft edge to my brush strokes.  Follow the painting instructions for the background below and you will create a pretty fabulous-looking start for your lazy Susan. Keep in mind that no two surfaces prepared with this technique will look exactly the same. The amount and type of medium you use, the size and direction of your brush strokes, how much pressure you apply to your brush, and how light or dark you prefer your background will make each prepped surface unique and one-ofa-kind. Have fun experimenting with this technique. Just sit back and watch the magic appear—one brush stroke at a time!

Surface Preparation: If needed, lightly sand the lazy Susan panel and turntable base and tack to remove dust. Using a fairly small drill bit, drill into the bottom center of the snowman finial about ½” deep, so that it can be screwed onto the top of the lazy Susan panel once everything is painted. Use the Jumbo Dauber to apply Multi-purpose Sealer to the lazy Susan panel, being particularly careful over the cut snowflake areas to not press too hard. If you use a fairly light pressure with the jumbo dauber, you can avoid depositing excess sealer in the cut out areas. If this does happen, quickly remove any excess sealer with the dampened end of a cotton swab. Seal the turntable base using a regular brush; allow both pieces to dry thoroughly, then lightly sand. Tack to remove any dust.

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Instructions: Background: Mulberry and Calypso Blue: Basecoat the center of the lazy Susan panel with Mulberry and the outer edges of the lazy Susan panel with Calypso Blue using the jumbo dauber. Allow both colors to completely dry.

Keep the cut out areas clean: As you work on the next steps with Glazing Medium, you may end up getting a few “globs� of paint in the cut out areas of the lazy Susan panel. Try to keep these cut outs clean; if necessary, immediately remove any excess paint with the dampened end of a cotton swab.

Glazing Medium: Apply a very generous layer of Glazing Medium to the top of the lazy Susan panel; work quickly with the following colors to ensure that the medium does not dry. If it does begin to dry, apply more Glazing Medium to the plaque. The colors will blend much more easily if there is sufficient Glazing Medium to work with.

The next five mixtures consist of 75% Glazing Medium to 25% Paint. All the mixtures below will be used over both the Mulberry and Calypso Blue areas of the lazy Susan panel: Glazing Medium/Blue Violet: Using a large filbert brush, dab all over the lazy Susan panel, blending gently into the background with soft strokes. Do not over blend, and do not completely obscure the background base coating.

Glazing Medium/Peacock Teal: With the large filbert, dab all over the panel, blending gently into the background and into the Blue Violet. Note that every stroke of the brush does not need to be blended; that will naturally occur as you continue to apply other colors.

Glazing Medium/Dioxazine Purple: Lightly dab randomly over the two previous colors, then gently move the filbert back and forth in a slip-slap manner, keeping the brush up on the tips and using very little pressure. By keeping the pressure light, it should allow you to get more streaking without making the colors too muddy.

Glazing Medium/Whispering Turquoise: Dab a bit around the panel, blending as you go.

Glazing Medium/Ultra Deep Blue: Very lightly dab small amounts of color on the surface. This is a gorgeous color but it is also very strong; a little goes a long way. Too much of this could obscure many of the other colors. Remember not to over blend or completely obscure all of the basecoat.

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Glazing Medium/Calypso Blue: Repeat with a bit of Calypso Blue here and there.

Glazing Medium/Dioxazine Purple: (This is a 50%/50% mixture.) Use a bit of Dioxazine Purple to tint a bit around the snowflake cutouts.

Glazing Medium/Ultra Deep Blue: (This is a 75%/25% mixture.) Once again, very lightly dab a small amount of color on the surface, then blend to darken the surface overall. Try to blend with just the tip of the brush bristles so that the other colors are slightly toned down, but not completely obscured.

Ultra Deep Blue: (Without Glazing Medium mixed into it.) Dry brush around the outer edge of the lazy Susan panel. Allow all paint to dry thoroughly. Float around the inside edge of the panel (around the area that was based in Mulberry).

Snow, Snowmen, and Finial: Warm White: Base the snow hills, the snowmen bodies, and the snowman finial, excluding the hat and hat band.

Whispering Turquoise: Using the 1/2� Debbie Mitchell stipple brush, stipple some texture all over the snow, snowmen, and finial. Float on the bottom of each snow hill (where it sits behind another hill, around the bottom edge of the snow hills (next to the thin pink circle of trim), and on the snow below the snowmen and inter tubes. Shade on the snowmen bodies around the faces, eyes, below mouths, below hats, on legs next to bodies, feet, and around the arm of the belly-whoppin’ snowman. Shade the snowman finial between each section of his body, on the snowflake that he is sitting on, below his hat, and on the bottom/sides of the snowflake.

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Calypso Blue: Mix a small amount into the Whispering Turquoise to deepen the color; thin the paint with a little water and softly float to deepen shading in the darkest places of the snow hills, on the snow directly beneath the snowmen and inter tubes, between the legs of the belly whoppin’ snowman to separate them, and on the snowman finial.

Light Cinnamon: Thin the paint with a little water and very softly and sheerly float behind some of the snow hills and on the snow beneath the snowmen and inner tubes.

Warm White: Using the Debbie Mitchell stipple brush again, stipple the snow and bodies with Warm White to soften the shading. Using mini snowflake stencils of your choice, apply stenciled snowflakes on the center area of the panel, between the mounds of snow.

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Add Snowflakes

Slippery Slidin’ Snowman and Penguin: Inner tubes: Base the inner tubes with Slate Grey; dry brush the center area with Grey Sky, followed

by Warm White to highlight. To shade, dry brush the bottom and sides of the inner tubes with Grey Storm; followed by floating Grey Storm around the bottom and sides of the inner tubes, and on the inner tubes next to the snowman and penguin bodies. Deepen the shading around the bottom and bottom-sides of the inner tubes with Charcoal Grey. Using a sheer float, lightly float a white shine across the front-top portion of the inner tubes.

Penguin on Inner tube:

Hat: Base the hat with Melon (excluding the hatband and pom-pom). Dry brush center of hat with a mixture of Melon and Warm White to highlight. Shade hat with Dragon Fruit. Apply tiny dots of Dragon Fruit in the hat area. Deepen shading on the hat with Mulberry.

Hatband: Base the hatband with Frosted Plum; dry brush with a bit of Frosted Plum and Warm White. Line the ribbing on the hatband with Mulberry, then shade around bottom and sides of hatband with Mulberry. Deepen shading on hatband with Grape Juice.

Scarf and Pom-Pom on Hat: Base with Desert Cactus. Dry brush scarf with Lemonade; float top of pom-pom with Lemonade. Line stripes on scarf with Moon Yellow. Shade bottom of pom-pom and scarf with Forest Green.

Face and Tummy: Base with Warm White; float to shade with Fawn.

Black areas of Penguin: Base with Grey Storm, then dry brush with Slate Grey. Float with Lamp (Ebony) Black to shade.

Mouth and Cheeks: Use a very sheer float of Dragon Fruit to rouge the cheeks and base the tongue inside the mouth.

Beak and Feet: Base beak and feet with Moon Yellow. Float the top of the beak and top of the feet with Warm White to highlight. Shade the bottom of the beak and feet with a brush mixture of Moon Yellow and Dragon Fruit.

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Snowman on Inner tube:

Sweater: Base with Melon. To highlight, dry brush center of sweater areas with a mixture of Melon and Warm White. Shade with Dragon Fruit. Line ribbing on collar, cuffs, and bottom of sweater with Dragon Fruit. Deepen shading on sweater with Mulberry.

Hat and Mittens: Base mittens and center portion of hat with Desert Cactus. Dry brush with Lemonade. Shade with a float of Forest Green; bascoat the remainder of hat (excluding the pom pom and fringe on the top) with Frosted Plum. Highlight with a dry brush mix of Frosted Plum and Warm White. Shade with a float of Mulberry; deepen with a float of Grape Juice. Base pom pom on hat with Melon; shade with Dragon Fruit, then Mulberry. Line a few pieces of fringe coming from the pom pom with Dragon Fruit, Cadmium Orange, and Moon Yellow. Line, then dot, the snowflakes on the hat’s ear flaps and in the green area in the center with Warm White.

Cheeks: Very sheerly float cheeks with Dragon Fruit. If desired, repeat the float on the bottom of the cheeks to deepen color.

Carrot Nose: Base carrot nose with Pumpkin; float to highlight top of carrot with Moon Yellow; float to shade bottom of carrot with Cadmium Orange.

Belly Whoppin’ Penguin:

Hat: Base the hat with Melon (excluding the hatband and pom-pom). Dry brush the highlight in the center of the hat with a brush mix of Melon and Warm White; shade hat with Dragon Fruit. Line wider stripes on hat with Cactus; apply narrow stripes on hat with Mulberry. Deepen shading on hat with Mulberry.

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Hatband: Base the hatband with Desert Cactus; dry brush the center with Lemonade. Shade the hatband with Forest Green. Line tiny stars on hatband with Moon Yellow; shade stars with a brush mix of Moon Yellow and Dragon Fruit.

Scarf and Pom pom on Hat: Base scarf and pom pom on hat with Frosted Plum. Line stripes on scarf with Grape Juice. Shade pom pom and scarf with Mulberry, then with Grape Juice to deepen.

Line a few pieces of fringe coming from the pom pom with Dragon Fruit, Cadmium Orange, and Moon Yellow.

Eyes: Shade iris in eyes with a sheer float of Light Cinnamon. Base pupils with Lamp (Ebony) Black; dot pupils with Warm White.

Beak and Feet: Base beak and feet with Moon Yellow. Float the top of the beak and top of the feet with Warm White to highlight. Shade the bottom of the beak and feet with a brush mixture of Moon Yellow and Dragon Fruit.

Belly Whoppin’ Snowman

Hat: Base hat (excluding the hatband and the pom-pom) with Desert Cactus. Dry brush center of hat with Lemonade. Shade the hat with Forest Green. Apply large dots with Melon; shade dots with Dragon Fruit. Apply tiny dots in hat with Mulberry.

Hatband and Pom-Pom: Base the hatband and pom-pom with Frosted Plum. Dry brush center of hatband with a mixture of Frosted Plum and Warm White. Shade hatband and bottom of pom-pom with Mulberry; line ribbing in hatband with Mulberry. Deepen shading on bottom and sides of hatband and pom-pom with Grape Juice.

Scarf: Base scarf with Melon; dry brush center of scarf with a mixture of Melon and Warm White to highlight. Float to shade scarf with Dragon Fruit. Line plaid pattern on scarf with Desert Cactus; dot where plaid lines intersect with Forest Green. Deepen shading on scarf with Mulberry.

Eyes: Shade iris with a sheer float of Calypso Blue. Base pupil with Lamp (Ebony) Black; dot center of pupils with Warm White.

Cheeks: Very sheerly float cheeks with Dragon Fruit. Repeat the float on the bottom of the cheeks to deepen color, if desired.

Carrot Nose: Base carrot nose with Pumpkin; float to highlight top of carrot with Moon Yellow; float to shade bottom of carrot with Cadmium Orange.

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Pink Band between Outer Edge and Center: Using the 1/8” Banding Stencil A from Creative Arts Lifestyle, stencil a band between the center area and the outer snowflakes with Dragon Fruit.

Lettering: Belly Whoppin’ and Slippery Slidin’ Lettering: Use the 10/0 liner brush to base the lettering with an equal mixture of Lemonade and Forest Green. Shade left side of the lettering with a float of Forest Green. Line on the left side of each letter with thinned Lamp Black.

Lining: Thin Lamp (Ebony) Black slightly with water until it is an inky consistency. Pull the bristles of the 18/0 liner brush through the thinned paint toward yourself, rolling the brush gently between the fingers. This should give you a crisp, sharp point on the tip of the bristles. Thinly line the snowmen and penguins. Line the “smiley” eyes on the Slippery Slidin’ snowman and penguin; stroke their eyebrows and tummy line on that penguin. On the Belly Whoppin’ snowman and penguin, line their eyes and stroke a few lashes; stroke eyebrows.

Splattering: Thin a small pool of Warm White with water. Using a stiff bristled brush, such as a fan brush, or an old toothbrush, gently flick a few bits of “snow” across the lazy Susan panel. You may want to experiment first on a piece of scratch paper, just to make sure you like the size of your spatters. Note that the more water you mix with the paint, the larger the spatters will be.

Sharons’ Secret for Spectacular Spatters: Before spattering, apply one coat of varnish; allow varnish to dry and then spatter; any unattractive or poorly positioned spatters can easily be removed with a damp cotton swab. The varnish will protect the painted area. Once you are pleased with the effect, follow finishing instructions below.

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Finial Snowman: Base the mittens on the snowman and the buttons on his tummy with Dragon Fruit; shade with Mulberry. Base the hatband with Desert Cactus; dot with Dragon Fruit.

Base the top of the hat with Blue Violet; shade with Ultra Blue Deep.

Float the cheeks with sheer floats of Dragon Fruit. Base the heart with Dragon Fruit; highlight top of the heart with Pumpkin; shade the bottom of the heart with Mulberry.

Base the carrot nose with Pumpkin; highlight top of nose with Moon Yellow; shade bottom of nose with Cadmium Orange.

Dot eyes and buttonholes with Lamp (Ebony) Black; line mouth with Lamp (Ebony) Black.

Turntable Base: Base the turntable with Lamp (Ebony) Black.

Glitter and Glitz: Base Glamour Dust—Ice Crystal over all of the dark blue cut out snowflake area, over the snow hills, over the stenciled snowflakes, on the snowflake that the finial snowman is standing on, and on the hat of the finial snowman.

Base Glamour Dust—Purple Princess over the thin Dragon Fruit band and on the finial snowman’s mittens and buttons.

Finishing Varnish: Following manufacturer’s instructions, apply two coats of Dura Clear Satin Varnish to the lazy Susan panel, turntable base, and finial snowman.

Assembly: Set the lazy Susan panel on top of the turntable base, and attach the finial snowman by screwing it onto the exposed screw. Do not overtighten the snowman finial. Enjoy!

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Copyright Notice: Š Copyright 2016 Sharon R. Cook. All rights reserved under Pan American and international copyright conventions. This pattern may be hand copied as necessary for the purpose of transferring the design for painting. Whether this pattern is purchased as part of an electronic magazine or as a paper packet or electronic-packet, you may not resell this design in any manner, nor make copies of either for resale, to give away, or to use in teaching classes or workshops without express written consent from Sharon R. Cook and/or the owners of this electronic magazine (see Note to Teachers/Shop Owners below). You may not print the colored images for the purpose of decoupaging to a surface, nor may you sell copies of the printouts from this publication in any format. The designs may not be used as web graphics. The projects created from the patterns in this packet may be personally painted by the purchaser for fun or for sale (i.e. at local craft shows, or internet auctions such as eBay, and on their own websites or photo sites), although if shown on the internet, you must provide credit to Sharon R. Cook as the designer in your description. Manufacturing the finished product for mass marketing in national gift shows and national gift publications is prohibited. No mechanical, electronic, digital or any other method of reproduction or distribution of this pattern, line drawing, and/or instructions is authorized. Any use other than described herein is prohibited without the express written consent of the designer and author.

Note to Teachers/Shop Owners: You may not teach this design (or your adaptation of it) unless a pattern is purchased for each student, even if the instructions have been rewritten and a new photo taken of the finished/altered project. I will be happy to sell patterns (print or digital) for each student at a wholesale discount so they can be included with the class supplies at a nominal cost.

Disclaimer: The information in this pattern packet is presented to you in good faith. Since the author/designer has no control over the physical conditions surrounding the application of the information.

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Time for Snow!

By Sharon Bond

“With Winter approaching quickly, it’s “Time for Snow”! This plump little snowman makes up for the “O” in SNOW! With a scrapbook background and some glittery embellishments, this makes for a fun (and snowy) project! Hope you will enjoy it!”

Supplies: Surface:  11 ½” Ticket Plaque – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 31-L276 Paints DecoArt Americana Acrylics  Canyon Orange  Cool White  Eggshell  Hauser Dark Green  Irish Moss  Lamp Black  Marigold Pixelated Palette

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Olive Green Rookwood Red Salem Blue Snow White Spa Blue Tomato Red Victorian Blue 83

Mediums from DecoArt:  Americana Dry Time Extender  Americana Matte Spray Finisher  DuraClear Gloss Varnish  Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Ice Crystal

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Glamour Dust Glitter DecoArt’s Snow Tex Liquid Glass Americana Decou-Page

Project Supplies:  Ultra-fine Permanent Black Marker(s) – Such as a Sharpie OR Black PITT Artist Pen, Superfine or Extra Superfine (for even finer lines) by Faber-Castell.  Ultrafine Sharpie – Blue Skies Blue (optional) (If not available, use Black marker)  Scrapbook paper of the choice; the project shows “Nature Sing” www.scrapbook.com from Carta Bella’s Christmas Wonderland Collection  “Speckles” Layering Stencil by Tim Holtz # 09-60741; Available from www.cdwood.com  Mirrored Stars by Tim Holtz’s; # 46-93083; Available from www.cdwood.com  Sandpaper and Scissors for aid in adhering the background paper  Super Glue of choice  (Optional)Wire or Ribbon for hanger; Ribbon for bows Brushes: Papillon Brushes from Artist’s Club:  Round # 2 - # 20158  Script Liner 10/0 - # 20137  Angle Shader ¼” - # 20109, Angle Shader 3/8 # 20110  Flat Shader # 6 - # 20127  Drybrush ¼” and ½” – from Highlighter Set # 20173 Tip: If anytime during the instructions I mention to “finely outline” something in Black, you can choose whether you want to thin the Black paint and use a liner brush to outline or simply use the Black marker(s)!

Preparation: Cut out the choice of scrapbook paper a bit bigger than the plaque. Following the manufacturer instructions, apply Americana’s Decou-Page to the plaque and to the paper. (at least along the paper’s edges), position and press down. Smooth the paper, moving from the center outward. You can use the hands or use an old credit card to flatten any wrinkles, etc… Since this ticket plaque has indentions on each end, I simply snipped the paper with my scissors where there was an indention and used the sandpaper to sand it down. You can also use the sandpaper along the edges to make the paper fit perfectly to the edge. Let the plaque dry completely; spray it lightly with two coats of Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher to help seal the paper before proceeding. Once everything is thoroughly dry, transfer the main design.

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Painting Instructions: Note: Always allow ample drying time between paint or medium applications.

If the paper you chose already has snow on the ground, you won’t need to paint any. If not, simply base with Cool White and highlight with Snow White to create snow on the ground. I shaded around the grey areas on my paper with Spa Blue.

Letters S, N, W: Basecoat these letters with Salem Blue; drybrush with Spa Blue; shade around the inside edges of each letter with Victorian Blue. When dry, position the Speckles stencil in a manner that pleases you and lightly drybrush over the openings with Cool White. Drybrushing the speckles will give it a soft effect. Finely outline the letters in Black; shade underneath them with Spa Blue.

Snowman: Basecoat the Snowman in Cool White, then drybrush with Snow White to highlight. Shade around the inside and outside edges with Spa Blue.

Cheeks: Blush his cheeks by drybrushing Tomato Red. Eyes and Mouth: Lamp Black Carrot Nose: Basecoat Canyon Orange; highlight with Marigold; finely outline with Black.

Scarf and Hatband: Basecoat with Irish Moss; drybrush with Olive Green.

Shade the inside edges with Hauser Dark Green. Use the Speckles stencil to add a dotted effect by lightly drybrushing over the stencil with Eggshell. Finely outline the scarf in Black.

Top Hat: Base Lamp Black. Lightly drybrush a bit of Snow White mixed with Black in the top right hand corner of the hat and to the right on the brim.

Buttons: Basecoat solidly with Salem Blue; add tiny Lamp Black ‘x’s’ finely outline with Lamp Black.

Sunny Snowflake: This is done almost like the snowman!

Base in Cool White, highlight in Snow White. Shade around the inside edges with Spa Blue. Her cheeks are drybrushed with Tomato Red and dotted with Tomato Red; the nose is Canyon Orange. Mouth and eyes are Lamp Black. I did finely outline her and pull the lines from her face with my Blue Sharpie marker.

However, you can use a fine liner and Salem Blue if you prefer.

Add Snow White dip dots to the end of each line.

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Snowflakes on letters: The large snowflakes are done with a liner brush and thinned Snow White.

Cardinals: Basecoat with Rookwood Red; heavily drybrush with Tomato Red; drybrush a bit of Canyon Orange on their chests and to highlight their wings. Their masks are Lamp Black; their eyes are based with Marigold. Their pupils are Black with a tiny Snow White dot as a highlight. Their beaks are solid Canyon Orange. Finely outline the Cardinals with Black.

Finishing Touches: There are actually several finishing touches to add to our plaque!

Let’s start by adding a few random piles of snow along the bottom of the plaque using Snow Tex. I used an older brush to dab this on and created piles in the corners, under the redbird on the ground, etc… If you happened to use the same scrapbook paper background as I did, I used the Snow Tex to cover up the same deer that was printed on the paper. The little deer didn’t quite fit in with the rest of the painting so I just covered her up. Once the snow has dried, we will spray seal our plaque with Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher and let dry before proceeding.

Using DuraClear Gloss Varnish, I painted over the snow piles and then sprinkled them with Glamour Dust Glitter (while the snow is still damp from the varnish). I used the Glamour Dust Paint (Ice Crystal) to paint over the snow on the paper (or the snow that you may have painted on).

With an older (small) brush I dabbed Snow Tex on the top of his hat and brim of his hat. Once dry, I painted on the Glossy Varnish and sprinkled Glamour Dust Glitter while still wet. (Same method as we did the snow piles on the ground).

I also added the DuraClear Gloss Varnish to the cardinal’s eyes and beaks.

I added Liquid Glass to the Sunny Snowflake’s nose and dotted cheeks; also to the Snowman’s carrot nose and buttons.

Using Super Glue, I added a few mirrored stars randomly on the plaque. You can refer to the picture for placement or place them wherever you’d like.

If you wish you can use wire or ribbon to create a hanger. I also added a ribbon bow where I attached the wire on mine, but this is completely an option for you!

This is a fun snowy project for all winter long; I hope you will enjoy it!

Thank You! Sharon Bond

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Winter Door Crown

By Judy Diephouse Those of us who love to garden often arrange a few groupings for decor during the winter months.

This door crown is just a reminder that spring always follows winter.

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Supplies: Surface:  Door Crown from Brushes and More- 281-259-3730 or surface of choice Paints: DecoArt American Acrylics  Bleached Sand  Calico Red  Charcoal Grey  Colonial Green * = Winter Blue, Wedgewood Blue, Forest Green (1:1:1)  Cool White.  Copper - Metallic  Dark Hauser Green  Gingerbread* = Burnt Orange and Cashmere Beige (2:1)  Golden Straw  Hot Shots Fiery Red  Khaki Tan  Lamp Black

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Medium Hauser Green Milk Chocolate Mistletoe Sable Brown Salem Blue Sand Slate Grey Soft Blue* = Blue Haven, Spa Blue, Dove Grey (1:1:1)  Soft Sage  Splendid Gold-Metallic  Traditional Burnt Umber  True Red *= discontinued colors

Brushes by Loew Cornell  Assorted Flats #2-#14  Liners—6/0  #1, #2, Mop Note: Always allow ample drying time between paint or medium applications.

Preparation: Basecoat the entire door crown with Soft Blue or Soft Sage. Transfer on the pattern; if you are doing the lettering, the ground line is 1 ¾” from the bottom; otherwise it is 1” from the bottom.

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Painting Instructions If you aren’t adding the wording, you might prefer to create 2 rows of checks along the bottom instead of the plaid.

Plaid: Use a #12 Flat and Colonial Green to create the wide stripes.

Use a # 4 Flat and Sand for the next size wide stripe.

Using a #1 Liner, the thin double lines are Dark Hauser Green Using a #1 Liner the single, thin stripes are Cool White.

Optional Checks: Use a #14 Flat to create two rows of thinned Dark Hauser Green checks.

Background Sky: Wet the sky area with clean water, add a small area of Salem Blue, soften the color into the background with a mop. Repeat with Sand.

Add blushes of a mix of Medium and Dark Hauser Green in the area of the pots.

Background Trees: Wet the background with clean water; staying on the chisel edge of a #12 Flat double loaded into Dark Hauser Green and Salem Blue, tap in the background pine trees.

Shadows: Using a large Flat brush, softly float shadows of Khaki Tan behind the objects in the scene. Shade the top of the plaid/ or checks with a side load float of Sable Brown.

Clay Pot: Basecoat the pots with Gingerbread; shade with Milk Chocolate and highlight with a brush mix of Gingerbread and Cool White. Shade the inside of a couple of pots and deepen some shadows with a float of Traditional Burnt Umber.

Birch Trees: Using a #2 or #4 Flat, double loaded with Bleached Sand and Charcoal Grey, stroke on the main trunks of the birch trees.

Using a fine Liner, add some bark lines and extra branches with a brush mix of Charcoal Grey and Lamp Black. Highlight the right sides of the trees with a float of Cool White. Add more bark detail lines with Lamp Black if needed.

Presents in Wheel Barrow: Basecoat the presents with Bleached Sand; shade with Slate Grey and highlight with Cool White. The star decorations are Splendid Gold. The ribbon on the right is Salem Blue, shaded with a light touch of Lamp Black and highlighted with Cool White. The present on the left has a plaid of thin lines of Mistletoe.

The ribbon is True Red, highlighted with Hot Shots Fiery Red. Pine Tree in Pot: The trunk and branches are a brush mix of Traditional Burnt Umber, Milk Chocolate, and a touch of Dark Hauser Green. The pine is fine lines of Dark Hauser Green; repeat with fine lines of Mistletoe.

The star is Splendid Gold, shaded with Copper, and highlighted with Cool White.

The garland string is a fine line of Splendid Gold. The berries are dots of True Red, highlighted with a tiny dot of Hot Shots Fiery Red. Pixelated Palette

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Bird House: Basecoat the bird house with Bleached Sand, shade with Milk Chocolate.

The wood grain lines are Traditional Burnt Umber.

The hole is a double load of Traditional Burnt Umber and Bleached Sand.

The roof is a line of Lamp Black. The shingles are strokes of Black that have been tipped into Cool White. The pole and support board are Milk Chocolate, shaded with Traditional Burnt Umber and highlighted with Bleached Sand.

The bucket is basecoated with Calico Red ( or True Red) Shade both sides with a soft float of Lamp Black. Highlight the center with Cool White. Wet the bucket with clean water. The granite lines are Cool White that soften into the damp background. Shade and highlight the bucket again.

The rims and handle are Lamp Black highlighted with fine lines of Cool White.

Filled Pots The tall grasses are fine lines of Charcoal Grey, Dark Hauser Green, and Milk Chocolate.

The grass plumes are fine lines of Sand, Bleached Sand, Sable Brown, and Khaki Tan. The twig branches are Traditional Burnt Umber. The berries are True Red, highlighted with dots of Hot Shots Fiery Red. The pine is fine lines of Medium, Dark Hauser Green, and Mistletoe.

The leaves in the two little pots are a double load of Dark Hauser Green and Mistletoe. The berries are dots of Cool White.

Shovel, Trowel, Wheel and Watering Can: Basecoat the metal parts of these four items with Slate Grey. Shade the left side of the shovel and trowel with a mix of Slate Grey and Lamp Black Shade the lower side of the wheel and lower spokes with this mix.

Shade both sides of the watering can, the lower side of the spout, and the inside of the handle with the dark grey mix. Highlight with floats of Cool White.

Redo the rims of the watering can with Slate Grey. Shade above/ below the rims with soft floats of the dark grey mix. Shade inside of the watering can with a float of Traditional Burnt Umber; repeat the shade and highlight on the body of the watering can.

The shovel handle is Traditional Burnt Umber shaded with Lamp Black. The string bow is True Red highlighted with touches of Hot Shots Fiery Red. The trowel handle is Dark Hauser Green, shaded with Lamp Black and highlighted with Cool White. The string is Milk Chocolate, shaded with Traditional Burnt Umber and highlighted with Bleached Sand.

The holly in the pot is basecoated in Dark Hauser Green, outlined on one side with Mistletoe. The berries are True Red, highlighted with tiny dots of Hot Shots Fiery Red. The dirt coming out of the pot is a mix of Charcoal Grey, Milk Chocolate, and Dark Hauser Green.

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Wheel Barrow: Basecoat the body of the Wheel Barrow with Khaki Tan; double load into Milk Chocolate and shade the bottom and create the second board. The wood graining lines are Traditional Burnt Umber. Shade the sides and bottom again with a soft float of Traditional Burnt Umber.Highlight the top edges of the two boards with a soft float of Bleached Sand.

The support poles are basecoated Khaki Tan; shade with Milk Chocolate and highlighted with Bleached Sand. Shade where they connect and tops and bottoms with floats of Traditional Burnt Umber.

Snow: Cover up the plaid or checks and fly speck the rest of the board with Cool White.

Using a Liner, add snow on branches, pots, and edges of objects with Cool White.

Add some snowflakes or sparkle lines with Cool White.

Cardinals: Basecoat the cardinals with True Red. Shade the male with Traditional Burnt Umber; highlight with Hot Shots.

The face is Lamp Black. The beak and feet are Golden Straw.

The breast of the lady is lighter with a mix of Golden Straw, Sand, and Bleached Sand.

Lettering: The letters are strokes of Dark Hauser Green and a tiny touch of Lamp Black.

Finishing The edge and back of the Soft Blue board is Colonial Green.

The edge and back of the Soft Sage board is mix of Medium and Dark Hauser Green.

The lines in the corner are the green mix or Cool White.

Allow the painting to dry thoroughly and erase any visible tracing lines.

Varnish with three coats of your favorite satin acrylic varnish.

ENJOY! Judy Diephouse

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Winter’s Eve

By Patricia Jarrett Imagine if you will, a starlit winter’s evening with a full moon shining down upon a quaint New England village; heaps of fluffy snow create the landscape; you may even discover a magical whale out for his midnight swim. The idea of this icy scene cooled me right down (it was a very hot day).

One of the benefits of designing and painting is that I get to escape into my own little world. I don’t always know where I’m going but the journey is always fun and rewarding.

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Supplies: Surface:  Horizontal Postage Stamp Plaque, #31-L353, Cupboard Distributing, www.cdwood.com.

Project Supplies: Stencils: Available from Creative Arts Lifestyle, www.creativeartslifestyle.com  Stars –#STCL 102 – Eek,  Houses – #STCL 1203_1 and #STCL 1204_1 (optional) This is a great stencil and makes it easier to either trace houses or stencil in the background of the houses/window/doors  Wire – for hanger, rusty or not, your preference.  Needle-nosed pliers to cut and curl the wire for the hanger  Easy Release Painters Tape  Clear plastic ruler  Pencil – mechanical pencil or very sharp pencil  Eraser  Ball Stylus – different sizes  Standard Painting Supplies Paints DecoArt Americana Acrylic  Antique Teal  Bittersweet  Burnt Orange  Burnt Umber  Buttermilk  Country Red  Deep Midnight Blue  Fawn  French Grey Blue  Heritage Brick

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Lamp Black Light Buttermilk Oyster Beige Rookwood Red Shimmering Silver Slate Grey Titanium White (Snow) White Wash Winter Blue Zinc

Mediums/Other Products by DecoArt: Acrylic Sealer/Finisher, DAS13, Matte.

Brushes: I have listed the brushes I feel comfortable using but please substitute according to your preference.

Curved Flat Brushes – all 3 sizes - #12, 10 and 4 by Loew Cornell Mid Liner - #2 and #10/0 by Loew Cornell (for detailed line work ) Crescent brushes #247 – 1/2”, 3/8”, and 1/8” Optional - Royal Drafters Choice dome brushes #9113 – 5/8”, 3/8” and 5/16” for dry brushing.

Please note, large surfaces are painted with a large flat brush of your choosing.

Smaller areas are painted with a size flat brush that is comfortable for you. The same holds true for any round brush used. The curved flat brushes were used for floating and I used the smaller size for smaller areas, middle sized for larger areas and the large size for the largest areas. I used both Crescent brushes and domed brushes for the dry brushing and used a size that was appropriate to the area being brushed. I have listed the brushes that I used.

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Preparation: Lightly sand and dust the piece. Spray the entire piece with the acrylic sealer and then lightly sand and dust once more.

Instructions: Note: Always allow ample drying time between paint or medium applications.

Basecoat all sides of the piece with Deep Midnight Blue; be sure to get into all the nooks and crannies!

Lightly sand and dust the front and back and remove the dust. With ruler, measure in 1” from all sides and draw a line to create outer border. Then measure down another 1/8” and mark off another line all the way around creating a faux frame. Using the tape keeps a crisp clean line. Paint in between the tape with Winter Blue. When dry, touch up if necessary. Center the design (area within the Winter Blue rectangle). You can always extend the design on the sides if necessary.

Using light graphite paper, transfer on the hills, water, whale (just the outline), moon, trees (I just traced in a vertical line) and buildings (use stencil here for outline of the houses tracing roof/house line as well).

Using Lamp Black, lightly float a shade (S) around the inside of the sky area and all around the inside of the lower area (some of this will be covered by further painting). Float a highlight (H) on the top of the water with French Grey Blue with a touch of Antique Teal. Lightly dry brush in some of the mixture onto the water area. Dry brush the lower section of the water with Antique Teal. Be sure to leave open areas which helps give the water some depth. The dry brushing should be “heavier” toward the bottom of the water area.

Float a highlight on the top of the hills with Winter Blue using the #12 curved flat brush for wider coverage. After dry, strengthen the highlight with a light touch of White Wash. Using the Deep Midnight Blue as the base helps create some pre-made shading.

Moon: Base the moon Oyster Beige. Lightly float a shade of Deep Midnight Blue around the inside of the moon (refer to the photo). Dry brush with White Wash in the center of the moon’s face. Transfer on the features. Use the Fine Liner and thinned Deep Midnight Blue to paint the features (eyes, eyebrows, eyelashes, nose, mouth and lower lip) Using the small curved flat brush, and keeping the shading along outside right corner of each eyelid, float a light shade around the eyes, lower eyelid, under the eyebrows, under the mouth, and around the nose. Using Country Red, lightly dry brush in the cheek area (refer to photo).

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Moonlight – The moonlight on the water is done with dry brushing. Begin concentrated dry brushing directly under the moon, spreading outward and fading away. (Refer to the photo).

You can also add touches of dry brushed moonlight beyond the church, but keep it light.

Directly below the moon, strengthen with a bit of Titanium White. Now would be a good time to also dry brush the hill tops going over the highlighted area using White Wash (be sure to keep it light and airy and a very dry brush). The dry brushing should end before you get to the next hillside so there is a definition between each hillside.

Whale: Base the whale with Lamp Black. Float a highlight of White Wash on the top of the whale and the right side where the moonlight would be. Light dry brushing of White Wash is applied above the blowhole for the steam. The eye is a small dip dot of Lamp Black; then add a smaller dip dot of Titanium White. Create “spray” lines and outline the whale with thinned White Wash.

Church: Base the roof Zinc and (H) the right side with White Wash.

With thinned Slate Grey paint, add a fine line on the left side of the roof.

Paint the wooden part of the steeple and the main church structure with White Wash. Trace on the windows and door and paint with Lamp Black.

Highlight the left side and part of the bottom of each window and the door Slate Grey. Using thinned Slate Grey and a fine liner, paint in the clapboards (refer to photo). Using the fine liner and thinned White Wash, paint in the wood trim around the windows and the door as well as the cross hatching and trim on the circle and the decorative window.

Highlight on the left side of the church with White Wash.; shade on the right side of the building (including the steeple), along the bottom of the building and along the bottom of the door with Slate Grey Also shade around the windows and the door with Slate Grey. With thinned Lamp Black, paint in a line for the roof on the main part of the church (refer to photo). When dry, using thinned White Wash, paint in a line of snow (make it a little bit squiggly, refer to photo). Paint in the cross on top of the steeple with Shimmering Silver.

Houses: All the roofs are based in Zinc. Highlight the right side and top of each roof with a float of White Wash. Dry brush the snowy area bringing it on down toward the edge of the bottom of the roof to make it look like a “windswept roof”. For the left side, use thinned Slate Grey and paint a thin line for definition. The chimneys are all based in Heritage Brick with a white (H) at the top and a (S) at the bottom with Bittersweet. The windows and doors are based Lamp Black and then (H) on the left side and onto the bottom in an L-shape with Slate Grey. When the houses are all done, go back and create smoke coming out of the chimneys; use a dry brush technique and White Wash.

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Fawn house : Base the whole house with Fawn. If you have the stencils, you can stencil Lamp Black for the windows and doors (please note I put a different shape door on the grey house. The windows and doors are based Lamp Black and then (H) on the left side and onto the bottom in an L-shape with Slate Grey. Using thinned Burnt Umber, paint in the clapboards.

Highlight the left side of the house with Buttermilk and shade the right side of the house, under the roof and on the bottom with Burnt Umber. Paint the window and door trim with thinned Buttermilk and a fine liner brush. The mullions on the windows are painted with thinned Light Buttermilk and a fine liner brush. Paint the doorknob Slate Grey using a tiny stylus dip dot.

Red House: Base with Rookwood Red. If you have the stencils, you can stencil the windows and doors with Lamp Black (please note I put a different shape door on the grey house. The windows and doors are based Lamp Black and then (H) on the left side and onto the bottom in an L-shape with Slate Grey. Using thinned Bittersweet and a fine liner brush, paint in the clapboards. Highlight on the left side of the house with Burnt Orange and (S) on the right side, under the roof on the right side and on the bottom of the house with Bittersweet. Using thinned White Wash and a fine liner, paint in the snow line on the upper right side of the roof (see photo). The window and door trim is painted with a fine liner and thinned Buttermilk. The mullions of the window are painted with a fine liner and thinned Light Buttermilk. Paint the doorknob Slate Grey using a tiny stylus dip dot.

Grey House: Basecoat Slate Grey. If you have the stencils, you can stencil with Lamp Black the windows and doors (please note I put a different shape door on the grey house. The windows and doors are based Lamp Black and then (H) on the left side and onto the bottom in an L-shape with Slate Grey. Using thinned Zinc and a thin liner, paint in the clapboard lines. . Highlight on the left side of the house with White Wash and (S) on the right side with Zinc (see photo). Be sure to shade under the roof on the front of the house and on the bottom. Using thinned White Wash, make a narrow line on the right side of the side of the roof for snow on the edge. The window and door trim are painted with thinned Zinc and a fine liner brush.

The mullions are painted with Slate Grey in the same manner.

Paint the doorknob Slate Grey using a tiny stylus dip dot.

Walkways: Repeat the same procedure for the walks that you did for the hillside starting with a float of White Wash and then strengthening the highlight with some dry brushing with White Wash and then Titanium White. Please refer to the photo for placement of the walkways.

Trees: I found the easiest way to paint the trees is by turning the piece upside down (I know it sounds crazy, right?). Using thinned Burnt Umber and a fine liner, you will paint the trunks of all the trees. Before you start painting the greens, decide which trees overlap the others, making some in back and some overshadow. Start with the trees that will be overlapped. Using thinned Antique Teal and a fine liner and starting with the lower branches, you will fan from outside edge to the center of the tree for a row and then start another row tapering in and ending on the pointed end of the tree.

Do the same procedure on these trees using thinned White Wash. Let some of the greens show

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through. When the overlapped trees are done, repeat the same procedure for the trees in the front.

When this is dry, dry brush some highlights. Think about where the moonshine hits the trees (the trees on the left of the piece received a lot more dry brushing.

Helpful Hint: Turn the stencil frequently to make the stars go in different directions.

Stars – I used a stencil for the stars but obviously these can be hand painted. I used a dry brush technique and a small crescent or dome brush and Shimmering Silver. I changed the angle of the stars just to give it some depth.

Finishing: I like to wait 24 hours and then lightly spray the entire piece with the acrylic sealer.

Spray another light coat. When dry, attach the wire hanger. I used needle-nosed pliers to curl the end on the front.

Happy Painting!

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Red House Farm Barbara Bunsey This is my interpretation of a mural done by Rufus Porter in the Daniel Carr house in North Haverhill, New Hampshire, dating c. 1825-1830. I love painting historic pieces and this mural spoke to me, as did the box, because it just seemed to “beg” to be paint-grained as well! The front of this box is distressed under the design to give it an aged appearance. The sides, back, and lid are paint-grained using washes of color and a variety of “tools”.

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Supplies Surface:  Box of choice;  Pictured surface available from http://www.calicogoose.com Project Supplies:  Minwax Oak Spray Stain  Vaseline  Heavy Cardboard, 8” long (cut a piece from palette pad backing)  Sanding Pad

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Turpentine Plastic Wrap Extender or Retarder (Optional) Old Toothbrush or Cotton Swab

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics  Antique Maroon  Avocado  Camel  Dark Chocolate  Deep Midnight Blue  Evergreen  Graphite  Heritage Brick

      

Midnite Green Soft Black Traditional Burnt Sienna Traditional Raw Sienna Warm White Williamsburg Blue Zinc

Brushes: Loew-Cornell 7000 series:  #10 & #16 Shader;  #0 & #6 Liner;  #2 Round;  3/4” Wash;  #272 M Dome.

FM Black Gold  #1/4” & #3/8” Angle Wave;

Preparation Background: Sand well but DO NOT SEAL; spray with MinWax stain.

Allow to dry overnight.

Please note: Allow complete drying between each step that follows!

When completely dry, use old brush or cotton swab to apply Vaseline to front of box. Don't “blob” it on; just “paint” it where you want. This will repel the paint you apply next and make it easier to remove. Use 3/4” Wash brush; apply a rather thick coat of Camel; dry well. Use sanding pad, sand off Camel and make this as distressed as you like. Wipe over the area with turpentine to remove excess Vaseline. When completely dry, Trace on pattern for hills and ground lines only.

Sky: Using 3/4” wash brush, side-load into Williamsburg Blue, blend, and add sky, beginning at top and walking down toward, but not up to, top hill line. You may need to do this step more than once.

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Hills and Ground: Using #16 shader, side-load into Avocado, blend, and float color, beginning at top edge of hill or ground and walking the color down toward, but not all the way to, the next pattern line. You may need to do this step more than once to get the effect you like. Using dry Dome brush, pick up Evergreen, take out excess on palette, and scrub on top left hill under lighthouse.

Lighthouse: Bottom: Base Warm White. Shade right side with Zinc. Add windows with #2 round and Graphite.

Roof: Base Graphite.

Flags: Left: Base Deep Midnight Blue. Circle is Warm White. Star is Heritage Brick. Right: Base Warm White. Stripes are Heritage Brick. Blue field is Deep Midnight Blue. Stars are dots with the tip of the liner and Warm White. Poles are Graphite.

House: Base Heritage Brick. Load #16 Shader in base color, side-load into Camel, blend then highlight left side of house. Shade right sides of each section and under roof with Antique Maroon.

Roof: Base Graphite. Shade right sides of each section and top with Soft Black.

Chimneys: Same as house.

Smoke: Using dry Dome brush, pick up Zinc on tip, take out excess, then scrub on, starting at chimney and pulling out.

Windows: Flatten #2 Round on side of paint, and “stroke” in with Graphite. Outline with Camel.

Door: Base Dark Chocolate. Highlight on left with a double-load of Dark Chocolate and Camel.

Fence: Before creating the fence, add the small trees to the left of the house. (directions below) Line the fence with the #0 Liner and Warm White; line to the right of each vertical post and under each horizontal post with Zinc for shadow.

Trees: Trunks: Using #0 liner for small trees and #6 liner for large trees, base with Dark Chocolate. On second coat, pick up a sideload of Camel, blend slightly, and apply to left sides of trunks and branches on large trees.

Foliage: Using dry Dome brush for tree on left and right foreground trees, pick up Avocado and “tap” onto foliage area. Pick up Evergreen on “toe” of dirty brush, “smash” to blend, and apply shadows to bottom of each section on left and to right of foreground trees. Wipe in dry paper towel, pick up more Avocado to temper brush, pick up Camel on “toe” and, following directions above, tap on highlights to Pixelated Palette

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top sections of left tree and left sides of foreground trees. For tree at right, use a barely damp 3/8” angle wave and the colors listed above. For small trees to the left of the house, use barely damp 1/4” angle wave and colors above.

Foreground Rounded Shrubs: Using dry Dome brush, load in Avocado and “tap” onto area. Pick up Evergreen on “toe” of dirty brush, “smash” to blend, and apply shadows to bottoms. Wipe in dry paper towel, pick up more Avocado to temper brush, pick up Camel on “toe” and, following directions above, tap on highlights to top areas.

Center Fern: Stems are a liner of Avocado. Add comma strokes to each side with #6 liner and Avocado.

Cows: Add with Dark Chocolate, using #0 liner or #2 round. Add white face with Warm White.

Paint Graining Barb’s Tip for successful graining: Developing the right ratio of water to paint is key. If the mix is too thin, the “design” won't hold up as you work it. Using a few drops of extender in the wash allow you to get the right consistency and still have open time with which to work.

Paint-Graining Back and Sides: Undercoat about 1/2” around outside edges with Midnite Green; base Evergreen. Tape off about 1/4” for the outside “frame” around the graining; seal the edges of the tape with Evergreen. Dry well.

Base inside the taped areas with Camel.

Sides: Make a wash with Traditional Raw Sienna and water and brush over area. Crumple a piece of plastic wrap and stipple the area until the paint starts to “set”. Dry well; repeat using Traditional Burnt Sienna.

Back: Using colors as above, repeat process, but just lay the plastic wrap down on the wet surface and press down and then remove.

Remove tape and clean up any areas as needed.

Lid: Base Camel. At front edge, make center for your “pivot point”. Make a wash with Traditional Burnt Sienna and water. I added a few drops of extender to this mix to keep it workable longer.

Place edge of heavy cardboard at pivot point, then drag and press cardboard for about 1/2”, then lift a bit. Place cardboard down next to the paint left after moving it (I hope this makes sense) and repeat. Be sure to keep one end of the cardboard at the pivot point so each area begins there.

Edges: Undercoat all trim areas with Midnite Green; base Evergreen. Varnish and enjoy!

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Š Barbara Bunsey. All rights reserved under Pan American and international copyright conventions. The contents of this packet including text, pattern designs and photographs are copyrighted. You may paint from this tutorial for pleasure, for teaching as long a complete pattern packet is purchased for each student and for retail sales at craft shows, craft malls and special orders. You may photocopy one line-drawing only per student for teaching purposes. Rewriting any or part of the directions included in this pattern packet for teaching or other purposes is strictly prohibited. PLEASE PURCHASE ONE PATTERN PACKET PER STUDENT IF YOU WISH TO PROVIDE THEM WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS. Photocopying or any type of mechanical electronic reproduction of any part of this pattern packet or the designs herein are prohibited, except purchaser may mechanically/electronically enlarge or reduce patterns for their personal use. If this pattern packet is purchased as an e-Pattern or CD, you may not re-sell the pdf file, nor make copies of the pdf files for re-sale or to give away. The designs cannot be used to create web graphics. The product created from or any derivative product made from the designs in this pattern packet cannot be mass produced in any form without a licensing agreement from Barbara Bunsey.

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Reader’s Gallery Reader submissions of designs featured in the Pixelated Palette.

Shelly Paulson shared her interpretation of Sandy LeFlore's Old Black Cat Coffee Co. from the August 2016 Issue of the Pixelated Palette.

Thanks for sharing, Shelly!

Have you painted a piece from the Pixelated Palette and would like to share?

Send a photo of your creation to Lindsey at palettepixels@gmail.com and you could be featured in a future issue!

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Single Swan Beautiful color! Deco Art Media Fluid acrylics. Paint like water color with all the advantages of acrylic.

Great instruction packet with color step by steps. This beauty lives on my pond.

Stencils * Brushes * Patterns * Paints Chipboard And so much more Designer * Teacher * Artist

www.maureen-baker.com Pixelated Palette

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