Pixelated Palette August 2020 Issue

August 2020 Table of Contents Sandy Kelsey

Let the Ghoul Times Roll

5-14

Sharon Bond

Too Cute to Spook

Martha Smalley

Deb Antonick

Crazy Witch Society

Halloween Party Tree

58-64

100-105

Elisabetta de Maria, CDA

Sandy LeFlore Magic Potion

Eye of Darkness

15-26

Debbie Mishima

Cheryl Poulin

28-34

75-82

Diane Kellogg

Linda Hollander

Along Came a Spider

Boo Brick

35-40

Kathy Jakopovich

Fallen Beauty

Scaredy Ghost and Fearless Friend

118-125

Karen WisnerDyar

Fly by Night Broom Repair

Welcome Witch

84-90

Sharon Cook

Phyllis Spaw

42-57

91-98

Eerie Avenue

106-116

66-74

Graveyard Shift

126-135

September Preview

Page 3

Editor in Chief: Lindsey Applegate; palettepixels@gmail.com Executive Editor: Susan Mynyk; pixelatedsusan@gmail.com

Copyright Notice: ©2020 Pixelated Palette. The Pixelated Palette is produced 12 times per year by Cupboard Distributing, 1463 S US Highway 68, Urbana, Ohio 43078. All rights reserved on entire contents of this digital magazine.

The information contained within this publication is presented in good faith. As the author(s) and publisher have no control over the application of the information presented, the results are not guaranteed.

Reproduction of editorial content is strictly prohibited without written permission of the Publisher.

September Sneak Peek Sunny Tonini Joyce Stegman Chris Watson Linda O’ Connell, TDA Nancy Scott, CDA Elisabetta De Maria, CDA Sharon Bond Debbie Mishima Jane Allen Kathy Morrow K

4M More Artists!

…

At long last it’s time to brush the scorch of summer aside and sink your fangs into the Halloween issue of the Pixelated Palette.

To prepare for this annual event, Susan and I dressed up in our creepiest attire and scared the designs outWa’ some of your very favorite designers.

And, just like kids who hope to find a certain candy in their treat sacks, we have done our best to provide you with an assortment of “flavors” from which to choose.

Most of us think of bats as especially unsettling, however Elisabetta de Maria, CDA, has created a portrait that will give you a completely different perspective on this valuable little mammal.

Surface sizes are always of interest to our readers. Some enjoy projects that can be magically completed in an afternoon and others are spellbound by large designs requiring many color potions. This month, our smallest design fits comfortably on a brick, and one of our larger designs appears when you add this year’s painting to last year’s painting. Hmmmmm… curiouser and curiouser!

Halloween is not just ghosts and goblins (but we have included plenty of them here)– don’t forget witches! There are several from “WITCH” to choose. If you like your lady’s a little naughty, you will enjoy Sandy LeFlore’s beautifully manicured, vino chugging enchantress. Looking to find a new career? Sculpt, paint and post Linda Hollander’s Fly by Night Broom Repair.

The mysterious transition of summer brights into the warm hues of fall is lovingly preserved by Cheryl PRulin’s Fall Beauty treasure box.

Have fun as you run through the pages and search out your favorite “flavor” to paint. Dnd remember to share! We love seeing your completed designs on our PixelateG Palette Facebook Page.

Trick or Treat – Painting’s sweet! a/LQGVH\

Original Design by Sandy Kelsey sk51263@aol.com

BIG PARTY happening down at the swamp! So set Google Tunes to “Let the Good Times Roll” by the Cars and have some painting fun!

Surface: Rectangle 15” x 11” (I found this metal sign at Hobby Lobby - use that coupon!).

Supplies: Rustoleum Primer Spray - White Palette Paper Transfer Paper (light and dark) Tracing Paper Blue Painters Tape Paper Towels Varnish of choice Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Asphaltum Brilliant Purple Cadmium Orange Cocoa Dioxazine Purple Evergreen Grape Juice Graphite Green Tree Hauser Light Green Lamp Black

Lemon Yellow Light Buttermilk Margarita Milk Chocolate Ocean Blue Petal Pink Purple Petal Slate Grey Soft Black Tangerine Tropical Blue

DecoArt American Chalky Finish Brushes/Tools Lace ¼ and ½ inch angled shader #2 and #4 Round #4 Scharff Supreme Script and 10 or 20/0 Liner 2-inch flat brush Small and medium drybrush Stylus or Ez Dotz Tool Preparation: Protect the black and wooden areas with Painter’s Tape. To cover the words on the sign, following manufacturer’s instructions, basecoat the metal area with Rustoleum Primer Spray Paint.

When completely dry, basecoat with DecoArt Americana Chalky Finish.

Tips for best results!!

Keep your water for floating super clean.

The colors are very vibrant, and you don’t want them to get muddy.

Keep your yellows and oranges away from your purples.

Use pink as a pretty transition color.

The light is coming from the center of the painting. So, keep the highlight on the correct side of the tree trunk and branches.

The Background Turn the surface vertically and add puddles of paint the size of a quarter in the order listed in the diagram. Use a 1 – 2” flat brush and paint nice straight up and down strokes of color to blend.

Clean the brush if the colors become too diluted. Don’t over blend. Visually find the middle of the surface and keep the Lemon Yellow and Petal Pink the center colors. Streaks are fine – skies and swamps come in amazing variety!

Cadmium Orange ї Tangerine ї Lemon Yellow ї

--------middle of surface---------

Petal Pink ї Grape Juice ї Dioxazine Purple ї

Flip the surface back to horizontal. When dry, line the pattern up and transfer the drawing for the 3 ghosts.

Being very careful not to get any paint inside the ghost outlines, return to the background, and cover the top half (around the ghosts) with a wash of Cadmium Orange. When finished, the inside of the ghosts will still have a bright yellow glow through their faces.

Add an approximate 1” float of Lamp Black along the very bottom -but don’t cover all of the Dioxazine Purple.

Using Light Buttermilk, undercoat the following until opaque: All the letters, the frog, turtle, snakes, owl’s eyeballs and beak, and Ghosts’ noses.

Trees.

Paint the 2 big trees with Soft Black. With the solid side facing the center of the painting, float the texture on the trees with Light Buttermilk. Enhance the color with a float of Lemon Yellow.

Add shadows with Lamp Black on the opposite side of the tree.

Grassy Areas.

Paint the dirt banks with Asphaltum. Add slanted direction lines in the middle with Milk Chocolate first then Cocoa (refer to photo). Base the 4 green grass areas with Evergreen. The grass at the bottom of the painting is longer. The grass on the left middle is shorter and on the right is shortest as that is the farthest away. The blades of grass are long, so most are laying down, with a random few pointing up. Use Hauser Light Green and paint highlight blades with Margarita.

Tombstone: The Tombstone is painted with Slate Grey and shaded with Graphite.

Skeleton Top Hat: Top Hat is painted with Lamp Black and highlighted on the right with two floats of Ocean Blue on the hat and brim.

Skeleton: His face, neck, shoulders, arm, and fingers on both hands are Purple Petal; highlight them with a float of Light Buttermilk. The Skull is floated with Light Buttermilk, starting at one cheekbone, down upper mandible and around to the other cheekbone. The lower mandible and two teeth are Light Buttermilk. Shade two teeth at the bottom with Razzle Berry, Fill the eyes, nose, and mouth with Lamp Black. Shade the skull and all bones with Brilliant Purple.

Peacock Feather: Start the feather by painting the Lamp Black circle in the center. Paint around it with Ocean Blue. Paint around that in a triangle shape with Cadmium Orange. Make thin wispy feather strokes of Ocean Blue, Hauser Light Green, Black, Brilliant Purple and Purple Petal. Then add a thin border of Margarita around the Cadmium Orange center. Paint the hat band with Razzle Berry and highlight with a mix of Razzle Berry plus a dab of Light Buttermilk.

Snakes: Paint the snakes with Lemon Yellow and shade their tummies with Tangerine. Outline the right side of the top snake with a line of Cadmium Orange. The snake’s green markings are little triangles of Green Tree. (refer to the design for placement).

The eyeballs are shaded with a VERY light, thinned float of Ocean Blue (top snake on the left, lower snake on the right). Use your liner brush loaded with Lamp Black to outline the bottom of the eyeballs, nostrils, and smile. Use Light Buttermilk for the fangs and Razzle Berry for the tongue.

Owl: Body is painted with Milk Chocolate and the tummy with Cocoa. Shade around the left side and tips of wings with Soft Black. Shade around the belly with Grape Juice. Paint the beak and the circles on the right side of the eyeballs with Tangerine. Feet are painted with Lemon Yellow.

Cocktail: (pictures on next page) Paint the orange slice with a Cadmium Orange mixed with a dab of Lemon Yellow. Paint a thin circle of Lemon Yellow around the center, then the rind with Cadmium Orange. Add a few Cadmium Orange stripes radiating out from the center.

Leave the top of the glass with the background showing. Paint the liquid with Tangerine. Add a line of Lemon Yellow down the left side of the glass and a Light Buttercream line 1/8 of an inch to the right. Add Lemon Yellow to the area between the two bottom fingers. Paint an outline of the glass with Ocean Blue. Add a highlight line under the rim of the glass and along the bottom of the glass. Mix a little Ocean Blue 1:1 with Light Buttermilk. Paint the umbrella with the mix.

Add a Light Buttermilk highlight line on the left side of each umbrella panel. Shade underneath the top section with straight Ocean Blue. Add Milk Chocolate stick lines where indicated.

Ghosts: Create the Ghosts by floating around the inside of the shape, using a ¼ inch angled shader loaded with Light Buttermilk. Make the float wider and more opaque around the heads and bottoms.

Add faint floats to allow the background colors to show behind their ghostly bodies.

Eyes: Paint all of the eyes with Margarita. Shade the bottoms with Green Tree and highlight the tops with Lemon Yellow. Use a ¼ inch brush to shade lightly around the bottom ¾ of the eyes with a Soft Black. Outline the eyes with Lamp Black. Add Lamp Black pupils. Shade the noses, chins and mouths with Razzle Berry. Paint the tongues with Petal Pink. Add Brilliant Purple under the noses and shade to the Ghost in the back wherever they overlap.

Paint the inside and mouth lines with Lamp Black and a liner brush.

Drybrush cheeks with Petal Pink on the ghost on the right, and Tangerine on the Ghost in the middle. Outline all ghosts with a liner filled with Light Buttermilk.

Add eyebrows and shade under the middle ghost’s brows with Petal Pink.

Paint the belly line on the center ghost with Grape Juice.

Wine Bottle: Using the round brush, basecoat Evergreen. Add a highlight as shown with Light Buttermilk. Use a wash of Evergreen to darken the highlight on the bottom and under the ghost’s hand. Brush mix Ocean Blue and Light Buttermilk to paint the label.

Highlight around the label with Light Buttermilk. Add an outline of Cocoa around the label. Add mocked up words with Cocoa and Grape Juice. The emblem is Light Buttermilk with a Cocoa curl. The berries on the bottom are Razzle Berry.

Wineglass: Use the Ocean Blue/Light Buttermilk mix to paint the outline of the wine glass, the stem and base. Don’t paint the area over the wine so the ghost shows through. Add the wine with Razzle Berry. With Light Buttermilk, float a c-stroke half circle on the left side of the wine, highlight around the rim of the glass and add a shine line down the stem and around the base.

Float a Tangerine highlight in a curve to the bottom of the wine. Add a soft float of Razzle Berry on the ghost along the top ring of the wineglass.

Beer Mug: Mix a beer color with Milk Chocolate 1:1 and Lemon Yellow and paint inside the beer mug.

Shade down the insides and bottom with Milk Chocolate, then script line around the top and sides of the mug with a thin strip of Asphaltum. Drybrush Lemon Yellow the right side of the mug and a float of Light Buttermilk on the left. Drybrush some Tangerine toward the middle. If the colors appear too light, add a wash of the beer color to tone it down.

Add Light Buttermilk foam at the top of the mug and a thin line along the bottom of the mug. Add a line of Slate Grey to the bottom of the foam. Shade under the grey with Milk Chocolate (on top of the beer).

Using the beer mixture, paint bubbles on the foam and add Light Buttermilk in the middle. Add Milk Chocolate bubbles in the beer and add Light Buttermilk shines underneath. Create bubbles above the foam with washy circles of Light Buttermilk and let the background show through the middle . The handle of the mug is highlighted with Light Buttermilk and shaded on both sides of the hand with Brilliant Grape.

Beads: Painted with Razzle Berry, highlighted with Light Buttermilk and shaded with Grape Juice.

Beads that pass behind the Ghost are painted with a 1:1 mix of Razzle Berry and Light Buttermilk and highlighted with Petal Pink.

Rocks Behind the Cats: (picture on next page) Painted with Slate Grey, shaded with Graphite and highlighted with Petal Pink.

Rock ‘N Roll Cats: Basecoat all but the eyes and noses with Soft Black. Use a ¼ angled shader to float top and bottom of heads with Brilliant Grape (layers as needed for brightness).

Paint the eyes (2 cats) with Margarita and add Lamp Black eyeballs. Draw the mouths in with Purple Petal.

The noses are Petal Pink and shaded with Razzle Berry.

Whiskers on the top cat are superfine and bushy (using 20/0 liner) with Soft Black. Middle cat left whiskers are Brilliant Purple and Soft Black on the right. Bottom Cat has Lamp Black whiskers.

Sunglass lenses are black with white frames. The bodies are highlighted with Brilliant Purple and then again with Purple Petal. The cats that are standing in the grass have Lamp Black floated under their feet bellies, tails, and legs. Float Lamp Black under the guitars.

Guitars: Top is painted with Ocean Blue and highlighted with Light Buttermilk. Edge is Ocean Blue with an Asphaltum outline.

Middle guitar is painted with Lemon Yellow and highlighted with Light Buttermilk with a touch of Tangerine. The edge is painted with Cadmium Orange.

The bottom guitar is half Razzle Berry and half Light Buttermilk. The zebra stripes are Lamp Black. Top is shaded with Razzle Berry. The edge is painted with a mix of Razzle Berry and Light Buttermilk.

All Guitar necks are painted with Cocoa and edges are Milk Chocolate. Turning Machines (keys) are lightly implied with Light Buttermilk.

Turtle: Paint the head and flippers Lemon Yellow. Drybrush center of face with Light Buttermilk. Shade around the head (excluding the right side) and liner in the mouth with Hauser Light Green. The white eyeballs are shaded on the left with a light wash of Ocean Blue.

Shade under the mouth and the points of the flippers with Margarita.

Where the palms would be, drybrush round spots with Light Buttermilk.

Paint the belly and rim of the shell with Margarita. Sideload a ¼ shader with Light Buttermilk and float curved lines across the bottom to add texture. Shade a wide float of Tropical Blue down the left side and under the head and along the bottom. Add a narrow float of Hauser Light Green down the right side.

The shell is painted with: Purple Petal highlighted on the left side with Light Buttermilk Ocean Blue highlighted on the left side with Light Buttermilk

Hauser Green highlighted on the left side with Light Buttermilk Grape Juice highlighted with Purple Petal Frog: Basecoat Margarita. Drybrush the left side of the back with Lemon Yellow. Make washy patterns with Light Buttermilk. In the center of those patterns add washy Tropical Blue. Shade the belly and bottom of the thigh with Hauser Light Green. Shade under the arms, under the chin, eyelids, legs under the thigh with Green Tree. Add a second shade to the legs under the thigh with Topical Blue.

Add the mouth, eyelashes, and lines around the eyes with Lamp Black. The eyeballs are Lamp Black with a half circle of Brilliant Purple. Add Light Buttermilk to the bottom Right of the right eye.

Add a highlight line of Light Buttermilk along the spine, and Lemon-Yellow lines along the top arm, on the top of the right eye, and under the smile.

Lettering: Paint the words “Let the” with Light Buttermilk until no background shows through. The words “Ghoul Times Roll” are painted with Lemon Yellow. Paint about ½ inch of the bottom of the letters with Cadmium Orange. With a ½ Angled Shader, float Cadmium Orange into the yellow.

Float the bottom with a ¼ inch of Razzle Berry over the Cadmium Orange to blend the colors together.

Float Cadmium Orange along the tops of all the letters with the solid edge of the paint touching the top. Outline “Ghoul Time Roll” with the #4 script brush and Lamp Black.

Add some horizontal strokes of Soft Black under the letters in the black area.

Little Rocks in The Grass: Randomly scatter Ocean Blue, Tropical Blue and Brilliant Purple rocks peaking out from within the grass. Shade the bottoms with a tiny float of Graphite. Use Evergreen to pull random pieces of grass up over the feet of some of the characters.

Eyes and Eye Shines: Use an Ez Dotz tool or Stylus to add Lamp Black dots to eyes of the Owl and Turtle. Then add a shine to the eyes of the frog with Light Buttermilk.

Horizon Line: The horizon in loosely painted with washy Brilliant Purple. Pull choppy lines of grass along the line but stop where the ghosts are. Load a ½ inch brush with Petal Pink and float with the solid edge along the bottom side of the horizon line.

And that’s it folks! I hope you had a painting this crazy group of characters! If you’d like, you can take your favorite section; the Skeleton and Tree, the Rock ‘n Roll Cats or Ghosts and letters, enlarge and make fun but still detailed individual paintings. Happy Halloween from down in the swamp!

Too Cute to Spook Original Design by Sharon Bond Copyright © 2020 Painted by Me, Sharon B - Photocopying or mechanical reproduction is strictly prohibited.

May be painted for fun or profit, but no mass production.

“Oh how I love the Fall and Halloween! It’s my very favorite season because of the all the fabulous colors! As so many of you know, most of my projects for this time of year are bright, colorful and sparkly as well!! This project was so much fun to do! I hope it makes you smile just thinking about the colorful holidays to come!”

Surface: “Summertime Sadie” Plaque – available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 31-L419 Project Supplies: Ultra-fine Permanent Black Marker – (Such as an Ultra-fine Sharpie, available at most stores!) ----OR-----Black PITT Artist Pen, Superfine and/or an Extra Superfine by Faber-Castell (for even finer lines.) (I would suggest two sizes for this project; such as an Ultra-fine Sharpie and also a finer lined marker.)

Ordinary Rubbing Alcohol (70% or higher for best results) Water Mister Bottle Miscellaneous Sponge Scotch’s Magic Tape or Painters Tape (Optional) Tim Holtz’s Falling Stars Stencil – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 09-51413 (Optional, or you could use any small star stencil if you have one available, also optional) Chris’s Painter’s Pal – (Optional but helpful with some of the eyes and the ghost’s mouth) – Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 29-24747 Old toothbrush (or Splatter Brush available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 46-04784) Wire, ribbon, etc… if you wish to create a hanger for your plaque All Paints are Americana Acrylics from DecoArt: Bright Orange Brilliant Purple Burnt Orange Cadmium Yellow Canyon Orange Chartreuse Yellow Dioxazine Purple Georgia Clay Grape Juice Irish Moss Lamp Black Light Buttermilk

Magenta Marigold Mistletoe Ocean Blue Olive Green Peony Pink Royal Navy Salem Blue Tomato Red True Blue Warm White

Specialty Items by DecoArt: Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher Americana DuraClear Gloss Varnish (optional) DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Ice Crystal (optional) DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Tiger Orange (optional) Brushes: Angle Shader ¼” Angle Shader 3/8” Flat Shader #6

Glaze/Wash Brush ¾” Round # 2 Script Liner 10/0

Specialty Brushes from Cupboard Distributing: #4 Oval Drybrush – Jo Sonja’s Sure Touch – Item # 03-2010-4 #6 Oval Drybrush – Jo Sonja’s Sure Touch – Item # 03-2010-6 Chris’s SPECTACULAR Stencil Brush – Item # 03-926-4 Tip: Anytime during the instructions if I mention to “finely outline” something in Black you can choose whether you want to thin your Black paint and use a liner brush to outline or simply use a Black marker!

Preparation: Start by tracing your center circle outline right onto the bare wood. There will be a line drawing for just the circle included for that purpose! (Just a reminder to always seal your MDF surfaces before starting any project.)

Now basecoat your center circle (moon) solidly with two coats of Canyon Orange (remember, for best results, let dry between coats.) Let dry completely.

Basecoat all around your center circle (moon) with Black. I suggest doing this first before adding your ‘crater’ effect to the moon. Touching up the Black around your moon will be easy and the Black paint also adds additional protection to your surface.

Our next step is to create the ‘crater’ effect for our moon! Create a wash of Marigold (on a palette large enough to dab your sponge in). Place some Rubbing Alcohol in a small dish that you can dip your fingers into. Have your sponge, your rubbing alcohol and a small mister bottle of water all handy!

Remember the key to this effect is to keep your wash damp before flicking on any of the rubbing alcohol. Mist with water as necessary. Proceed as follows: 1. Brush on your Marigold wash to the moon.

2. Pounce over this area with your sponge that has also been dabbed into the Marigold wash. (This eliminates any streaking from painting on your wash).

3. Immediately spritz lightly with your water mister.

4. Dip your fingertips into the rubbing alcohol and ‘flick’ this over the wet sections of wash.

5. You will see ‘circular starbursts’ begin to appear!

Continue until you have completed the entire moon.

Remember, no two are going to look exactly alike! You can add as little or as much of the rubbing alcohol as you like to achieve the effect that you want! Once finished, let this dry completely before proceeding! (I recommend an hour or two).

Once dry, touch up any areas of Black, if needed.

Remember, your circle doesn’t have to be exactly perfect as most of the items going around the moon extend into the moon a bit! Once everything has dried, take an old toothbrush or splattering tool/brush and lightly ‘flick’ Burnt Orange

over the entire plaque. Clean and dry off your toothbrush/tool and then flick again, this time with Cadmium Yellow. Once this has dried, you can trace on the main items!

Painting Instructions: When painting our items around the moon, we want to do the ones that are mostly in the background first. We will start with the Swirled Candy pieces first!

Swirled Candy Pieces (2) – Basecoat both of the round candy

pieces with two coats of Burnt Orange and let dry. Drybrush the candies with Canyon Orange. Then randomly drybrush again with Bright Orange. Once this has dried, trace on the swirls. Paint all swirls in Black. Add a small center circle and dip dot that with Black.

Once the dot has dried, dip dot a smaller dot of Bright Orange.

Add a fine line (similar to a semi-circle) of thinned Cadmium Yellow to highlight the right side of each candy. Shade down the left side of each with Georgia Clay.

GHOSTS (2) – Basecoat both of the ghosts with two coats of Light Buttermilk. Once dry, drybrush each with Warm White. When this has dried, trace on the details.

Drybrush their cheeks with Magenta. Tone this down a bit by adding Warm White to your same brush and drybrushing the cheeks again until you achieve the color you like!

Shade down the left sides of each ghost with Brilliant Purple.

To create the small ‘bubbles’ on the ghosts, thin a small amount of Magenta and paint your bubbles (one at a time) with this. After painting each bubble, dab it back a bit with a soft cloth or paper towel to make the bubble appear somewhat transparent. Let dry.

Eyes are painted solid Black, with a tiny Warm White dot to accent.

Their mouths are Black.

Basecoat the tongue with Tomato Red. Once dry, wet-brush over it with Peony Pink, leaving the edge of the Tomato Red showing.

Finely outline the ghosts with Black.

Spider – Basecoat the spider with Grape Juice and let dry. (If you wish, you can paint a bit of thinned Grape Juice behind the potion bottle and dab back a bit with a soft cloth or paper towel.

We don’t want that part to appear too bold, since we would be looking at that part through ‘two layers’ of glass.)

Drybrush the main spider with Brilliant Purple, then drybrush again with Magenta – mainly in the center and on its legs as a highlight. Let this dry, then transfer his details.

His eyes and teeth are painted solidly with Warm White.

Dip Dot the center of each eye with Black.

Finely outline his mouth, eyebrows and the spider itself with Black.

BAT – Basecoat the entire bat with Dioxazine Purple. You may need an additional coat to cover the wing area that is overlapping the moon. Let dry.

Drybrush the bat with Grape Juice, then drybrush again with Brilliant Purple (acting as more of a highlight.) Once dry, trace on the details.

Shade on the left side of each wing section with Dioxazine Purple. Once dry, finely outline wing ‘dividers’ with Black and also finely outline the wing that is overlapping the moon.

Facial features are finely outlined in Black. Paint the insides of his ears with Magenta. His teeth are Warm White. Paint his eyes with Tomato Red with Black pupils and a tiny dot of Warm White as an accent. His nose is also Black.

I did thin some Warm White and finely outlined around the ears, top of his head and around the right wing so they would show up a bit better against the dark background.

Candy Corn – Basecoat the top section with two coats of Light Buttermilk. Once dry, drybrush with Warm White.

Basecoat the middle section with two coats of Burnt Orange. Once dry, drybrush with Bright Orange.

Basecoat the bottom section with two coats of Marigold. Once dry, drybrush with Cadmium Yellow.

Shade down the left with Georgia Clay.

Once dry, trace on the facial features and drybrush the cheeks with Georgia Clay.

All facial features are done in Black. Finely outline the candy in Black as well. I did add a very fine line of thinned Light Buttermilk as a highlight down the right side.

Cat – Basecoat the entire cat with True Blue. Add an additional

coat, if needed for coverage. Once dry, trace on the details.

Drybrush the entire cat and around it’s facial details with Ocean Blue. Continue to use the same brush and highlight the tips of the ears, forehead, muzzle, paws, belly, back hip and top of the tail with Salem Blue.

Use Royal Navy to shade around legs, in front of the hip, bottoms of the ears and under his neck.

The insides of his ears are based with Magenta. Once dry, drybrush to highlight with Peony Pink.

Facial features are all finely outlined in Black.

Fill in the nose with Peony Pink.

Basecoat the eyes with two coats of Irish Moss. Let dry, then drybrush (or pounce) with Chartreuse Yellow. Let this dry, then shade the left side of each eye with Mistletoe.

Pupils are Black. Finely outline the eyes in Black as well as her eyelashes. Highlight the pupils with a stroke of Warm White.

Thin some Warm White to line the whiskers with. Finely outline her necklace with Black and paint or stencil a small star at the end of the necklace with Marigold. If you wish, you can also finely outline the star with Black, as well as finely outlining the cat in Black too.

Witch Hat –Paint the hatband with two coats of Magenta.

Once dry, drybrush with Peony Pink. Paint the squares on the hatband with Black.

Basecoat the hat with Royal Navy. Once dry, drybrush with True Blue and highlight with Ocean Blue. Basecoat the underside of the hat brim solidly in Black.

If you wish, you can thin some Warm White and add a few very fine lined strokes to highlight.

Randomly paint or stencil on stars with Marigold. If you wish, you can finely outline these in Black as well. Finely outline the hat in Black.

Potion Bottle – We will paint the “liquid” part inside the bottle first. Basecoat the bottom part of the liquid with two coats of Irish Moss. Once dry, drybrush this area with Olive Green and highlight (mainly on the right side) with Chartreuse Yellow.

Basecoat the top part of the liquid with two coats of Olive Green.

Once dry, drybrush (as a highlight) with Chartreuse Yellow. I also wet-brushed a stroke of Chartreuse Yellow to the right side as well to stand out a bit more.

Shade under the Olive-Green liquid (onto the Irish Moss liquid) with Mistletoe and let dry.

To create the bubbles inside the bottle, thin a small amount of Chartreuse Yellow and paint the bubbles with this (one at a time).

Use a soft cloth or paper towel to blot out the centers so the bubbles appear a bit transparent. Let these dry.

Basecoat the cork in True Blue. Drybrush with Ocean Blue.

Basecoat the top of the cork with Royal Navy. Once dry, highlight a small area to the right with Ocean Blue and let dry.

Before we finish painting the bottle, finely outline across the dividing line in the liquid and around the bottom of the cork with Black and let dry.

To finish the rest of the bottle, you will need to create of wash of Warm White and paint the bottle with this. Dab this back with a soft cloth or paper towel as you go to keep the bottle looking transparent. Once this has dried, shade around all the bottles edges with Warm White to reinforce the outline of the bottle. Paint the ‘lip’ of the bottle with a stronger amount of thinned Warm White. Let this all dry completely.

Once your bottle has dried, trace on the skull design. Paint the entire design with Warm White (may take two coats.) Once dry, trace on the facial features. The eyes and nose are solid Black. I did wet-brush a bit of thinned Brilliant Purple between the bones and the skull to help give it a bit of dimension. You may want to dab this back a bit while it’s wet so it doesn’t appear too bold.

Once everything has dried, finely outline the skull design in Black. Also finely outline the rest of the cork and around the lip of the bottle with Black as well.

Frankie – Basecoat face and hand with two coats of Irish Moss.

Once dry, drybrush with Olive Green. Highlight (mainly the center of his face) with Cadmium Yellow. Once this has dried, you can trace on the details.

Shade down the left side of his face, under his hairline, above the eyelids, along the stitched line and around his thumb with Mistletoe. Finely outline all facial features with Black.

Fill in his eyes with Light Buttermilk. Paint the pupils with Black.

Accents to the eyes are done with thinned Light Buttermilk.

Paint his tooth with Marigold.

Fill in his eyebrows with True Blue. Also paint the bandages across the stitched line with alternating colors of True Blue and Chartreuse Yellow.

Paint the ‘stems’ of his bolts with True Blue. Highlight the longer stem (on the right) with a stroke of Ocean Blue. The oval end of the right bolt is painted with Mistletoe. I added a bit of a ‘semi-circle’ stroke of Olive Green to highlight.

Basecoat his hair in Royal Navy. Once dry, drybrush with True Blue and highlight the tips with Ocean Blue. Finely outline in Black.

Shirt is based in True Blue. Drybrush with Ocean Blue. Highlight the top of his shoulder and arm with Salem Blue. Paint the open part of his sleeve with Royal Navy and lightly highlight with True Blue. Finely outline the shirt and its details with Black.

Mummy – Basecoat the entire mummy with two coats of Chartreuse Yellow and let dry. If your coverage still looks light, ‘pounce’ on another coat of Chartreuse Yellow to help deepen the color. Let dry, then trace on the details.

Drybrush each strip of his bandages with an equal 50/50 mix of Chartreuse Yellow and Light Buttermilk, leaving a few of the bandages more in the original basecoat color. Using the same brush, drybrush each strip again with Warm White.

To add a bit more definition, thin a bit of Olive Green and randomly wet-brush strokes around some of the bandages. If it looks too bold, simply dab it back a bit with a soft cloth or paper towel.

Paint the area on each side of the eye with Black. Paint the eye solidly in Warm White (you may need two coats.) Once dry, thin some Tomato Red and add fine, squiggly lines to the eye, leading to the center. Dip dot the center (pupil) in Black.

Finely outline the mummy and his bandages with Black.

The random strings on the mummy and coming off of the bandages are lined with thinned Light Buttermilk.

Pumpkins (2) – Basecoat both pumpkins with two coats of Burnt Orange.

Once dry, drybrush the sections with Canyon Orange. Highlight both with Marigold, concentration on the top part of the pumpkins. Shade along the sections with Georgia Clay. Once this has dried, you can trace on your details.

Outline the facial features in Black. Fill in the sections designated as ‘highlights’ solidly with Marigold. Fill in the rest of the eyes, mouths, eyebrows and nose solidly with Black.

The stems and vines are basecoated with Mistletoe. Once dry, drybrush with Irish Moss (just the stems.) Thin some Olive Green and use your liner to add the details to the stems and the vines.

Finely outline all in Black.

Lettering – All lettering is done in Black.

Finishing Touches: As I was finishing this project, I decided to add just a few random stars to the background. You can paint or stencil these on with Marigold. If you wish, you can finely outline them in Black.

Now that we have completed our painting, we will need to seal it. I simply spray sealed mine with Americana’s Matte Spray Finisher per instructions and let dry.

Once our project has dried, there are so many things you can do to enhance it, if you like! This is what I did: I added DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Ice Crystal - to the entire moon! I also added the Ice Crystal to - All the Stars – The Mummy’s Eye – The Bubbles on the Ghosts – The Pink Patches on the Witch’s Hatband – The Cat’s Eyes and The Liquid in the Potion Bottle (including the bubbles).

I added Americana DuraClear Gloss Varnish to the following: The Spider’s eyes and teeth – The Candy Corn’s eyes – The Ghost’s eyes, mouth and tongue – Both Pumpkin’s facial features – Frankie’s eyes and tooth – The Bat’s eyes, nose and teeth – The Cat’s nose and The Skull’s eye sockets and nose.

I added DecoArt Glamour Dust Glitter Paint – Tiger Orange – to both of the Swirled Candies.

If you really wanted to make this project extra sparkly, there are so many other things you could add! If you had other colors of DecoArt’s Glamour Dust Glitter Paints, you could use those on different things as well! For example: if you had their Black Ice, you could use it on the pumpkin’s facial features or if you had their Limelight you could use that on the liquid potion in the bottle or maybe Purple Passion for the bat or the spider and don’t forget about their Galaxy Glitters for some serious bling! Their Liquid Glass would also add dimension if you wanted to add that to the eyes and the stars!

So many possibilities! I hope you enjoyed this colorful project and will have as much fun as I did creating it!

Thank You! Sharon B

Willa wonders when the wily spiders will wander where she waits.

Surface: Tall Pumpkin Plaque, #31-L468, www.cdwood.com Supplies: Additional Supplies Chalk Pencil Transfer Paper Ball Stylus Glue Gun Optional: Jute Ribbon, 2 feet long Fabric leaves 1 Medium Size Purple Button Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Antique White Asphaltum Black Plum Bleached Sand Burnt Sienna Canyon Orange Coral Blush Fawn Hauser Medium Green Heritage Brick Lamp Black Light Lime

Light Mocha Mocha Moon Yellow Plum Purple Cow Raw Sienna Snow White True Ochre Warm Sunset Warm White Wasabi Green

Mediums: DecoArt Chalky Finish, Timeless Galaxy Glitter, Bronze Asteroid All Purpose Sealer Brushes: Dynasty Black Gold ¼” and ½” Angular Shaders Series 206A ¼” ½” Flat 206FW #12 Flat 206S 10/0 Liner 2” Palmer White Bristle FSAFIL Series #37036 Assorted Dry-Brushes, Mop Brushes and Scumblers Preparation: Do Not Sand MDF Based on the surface you’re using, if necessary, sand surface until smooth. Apply Multi Purpose Sealer and lightly sand again to knock down any raised grain.

Painting Instructions: Background: Basecoat the surface with Chalky Finish, Timeless.

Color Washes: (Note: The longer you leave a wash on before wiping, the deeper the color.)

Do a wash with Raw Sienna. Wipe off excess and allow to dry. Do another wash of Asphaltum.

Allow to dry. Shade around the edges with Raw Sienna. Splatter with Lamp Black. Splatter again with Warm Sunset.

Transfer on the pattern. Shade around the design (except the cape) with Burnt Sienna. Shade around the cape with Plum.

Pumpkin: Basecoat the pumpkin with True Ochre.

Transfer on the details. Shade Raw Sienna under and around the legs, down the sides, in the creases to help shape the pumpkin and around the sign. Highlight Canyon Orange down the inside of the creases.

Deepen the shading with Burnt Sienna and again with Asphaltum. Drybrush a little Canyon Orange, here and there (avoiding the shaded areas). Drybrush sparingly with Heritage Brick and Raw Sienna. Drybrush Moon Yellow in the middle and here and there to brighten and again with a little Bleached Sand.

Millie: Basecoat Light Mocha on her face, neck and arms. Shade Antique White under the brim of the hat, around her eyes, around her nose and face, under the chin, along the neckline, and where the arms touch her top and tutu. Highlight Snow White along the top of the cheeks, the bottom of the nose, the chin line, down the left side of the neck and the outside of each arm. Deepen the shading Mocha here and there and again with a little Fawn. Drybrush Warm White between the eyes, in the middle of the nose, down the neck and arms. Drybrush a little Antique White along the left side of the nose. Repeat with Mocha.

Drybrush the cheeks Coral Blush. Dot the wart and freckles with Burnt Sienna. Dot the wart with Bleached Sand. Basecoat the eyes Lamp Black. Float Snow White. Dot Snow White.

Line the lashes Lamp Black.

The hair and teeth will be painted after the hat is complete.

Hat: Basecoat the hat Wasabi Green. With Hauser Green, shade between the creases, above and below the hatband, along the top of the brim, around the face, where the underside of the hat touches the brim and along the bottom of the underside of the hat. Highlight Light Sage along the top of the creases and the bottom of the brim of the hat. Drybrush Light Lime down the hat, along the brim and on either side of the face on the underside of the hat.

Teeth: Basecoat Snow White. Shade Antique White between the teeth.

Ribbon: Basecoat with Lamp Black. Highlight Warm White along the top and bottom of the band, along the hem and edges of the bow part of the ribbon. Float some Lamp Black along the outside edges of the two larger pieces. Line the edge with Light Lime.

Pumpkin Button: Basecoat with True Ochre. Shade Raw Sienna along the edges, top and in the creases. Deepen the shading with Burnt Sienna.

Drybrush Canyon Orange here and there. Drybrush Moon Yellow in the middle of each section of the pumpkin. Basecoat the stem with Asphaltum. Line the cross and dot with Lamp Black.

Now you can line the hair with Lamp Black.

Cape: Basecoat Plum. Shade Black Plum along all the edges. Drybrush Purple Cow. Deepen the shading Lamp Black where the pumpkin and Willa touch the cape.

Top: Basecoat Lamp Black.

Drybrush with Snow White.

Using the tip of the handle of a brush dot with Canyon Orange.

Line the ties for the cape with Plum and highlight with Snow White.

Tutu: Basecoat by floating the tutu with Wasabi Green. Shade the edges and the flounce with Hauser Medium Green.

Drybrush with Light Lime and again with Warm White. Dot with Light Lime and line the edges of the tutu and flounce with Snow White using uneven squiggly lines.

Stockings: Basecoat with Lamp Black. Drybrush softly all over with Warm White. Line the orange stripes with Canyon Orange and the light stripes with Light Lime. Dot the buttons with Light Lime.

Line the strings with Snow White.

Basecoat the toes and heels with Light Lime. Shade Wasabi Green. Highlight with Snow White.

Bone Sign: Basecoat the tag with Antique White. Shade along all edges with Fawn. Drybrush with Warm White. Dot a little with Canyon Orange. Line the lettering with the Micron Pen. Dot with Lamp Black.

Basecoat the bones with Bleached Sand. Shade Antique White and highlight with Snow White.

Line the strings with Lamp Black and highlight with Snow White.

Spiders: Basecoat all the spiders with Lamp Black. Very softly Drybrush with Warm White. Highlight along the top with Snow White. Drybrush the cheeks with Coral Blush. Dot the eyes with Snow White.

Line the spider webs with Lamp Black.

Finishing: Brush Galaxy Glitter Bronzed Asteroid onto the ribbon and bow.

To make the jute bow, I separated each strand of the jute ribbon. Take five or six strands, tie them into a bow and cut the ends to the desired length. Glue onto the top of the stem of the pumpkin. Glue the leaves onto the center of the bow and the button onto the leaves.

Spray on the All-Purpose sealer following the manufacturers instructions.

Original Design by Diane Marie Kellogg of Oil Creek Originals Diane@oilcreekoriginals.com

I love Halloween! It is by far my favorite holiday to paint. There is just something about the colors that speak to me. The happy trio in this design are far from scary and their ‘boo-tiful’ greeting is meant in a happy way!

Surface Standard 4” x 8” concrete brick Project Supplies Tim Holtz Falling Stars Layering Stencil THS115 – CDWOOD.Com General’s Charcoal White Pencil Transfer Paper Large Ball Stylus (Optional: Small Light Table) White Eraser Craft Sponge (Optional: Flat Black Spray Paint) Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Aloe Burnt Orange Cotton Candy Grape Juice Graphite Grey Sky Grey Storm Heritage Brick Jack O' Lantern Orange Lamp Black Lavender

Light Avocado Moon Yellow Plantation Pine Purple Cow Raw Sienna Razzle Berry Saffron Yellow Sand Grey Slate Grey Spics Pink Warm White

Mediums: Americana Matte Spray Sealer/Finisher DecoArt Galaxy Glitter – Clear Ice Comet Brushes: Royal Langnickel Old brushes for base coating Zen 273A - ½” angular shader Mini Majestic Series - #4 angular shader 30/0 Monogram 20/0 Spotter Preparation: Paint the entire surface with Lamp Black or flat black spray paint.

Make a copy of the line drawing and cut out on solid outlines as shown here. Flip the pattern over and while holding up to a light

source (window or light box) trace the basic pattern outlines (on the backside of the paper) with the white, charcoal pencil. Flip over, fold, and ‘wrap’ around the brick. Go over the line drawing with a large ball stylus, pressing hard. (Your paper may rip.) Once that is done, remove the paper and lightly trace over lines on brick with the white pencil. You will add the features later using the transfer paper.

Pre-crease paper

Outline is visible

Wrap around Brick

Press firmly to transfer

Darken outline with chalk pencil

Painting Instructions: The background will be completed after the ghost, the bat and the jack o’ lantern are painted and detailed.

Note: After doing the basecoats, add the facial details with the transfer paper and stylus.

George, the Ghost: George is based with Sand Grey and shaded with Slate Grey. His high lights are Warm White.

His nose is based with Lavender, shaded with Grape Juice and the highlight is Purple Cow. The dots on his nose are Purple Cow. His eyes are Warm White and Lamp Black, the dots are warm White.

All linework on his face is Lamp Black.

His cheeks are first floated with Warm White then again with Spice Pink.

Dots are Warm White.

Bing, the Bat Bing is based with Grey Storm. He is shaded with Graphite. His high lights are Grey Sky. His nose is based with Spice Pink, shaded with Razzle Berry and the highlight is Cotton Candy. The dots on his nose are Cotton Candy. His eyes are Warm White and Lamp Black, the dots are Warm White. There is a strip of Aloe around his pupils.

All linework on his face is Lamp Black.

His cheeks are floated with Spice Pink.

Dots are Warm White. His ears are highlighted with the Spice Pink. The webs in his ears are also done with the Spice Pink.

Mo, the Jack O’ Lantern: Mo is based with Burnt Orange. He is shaded with Heritage Brick. His high lights are Jack O’ Lantern Orange. His nose and mouth are based with Saffron Yellow, shaded with Raw Sienna and the highlight is Moon Yellow.

His eyes are Warm White and Lamp Black, the dots are Warm White. There is a strip of Saffron Yellow around his pupils. Shade with Raw Sienna and highlight with Moon Yellow. The dots and eye highlights are Warm White. All linework around his eyes is Lamp Black. His cheeks are floated with Jack O’ Lantern Orange.

His stem is based with Light Avocado, shaded with Plantation Pine and the highlight is Aloe. Tendrils are done with Light Avocado and Aloe. Tiny lines in stem are Aloe.

Background: Using Lamp Black, touch-up and repaint around design. This gives the design a nice, crisp edge.

With the Tim Holtz star stencil, use the craft sponge and Saffron Yellow to add stars randomly to the front, top, and sides of the brick. Add dots of Saffron Yellow here and there as seen in photos. Touch up with the spotter or monogram brush if needed.

Lettering The lettering is traced on using the white charcoal pencil technique as described under preparation. It is based with Burnt Orange and then highlighted with Jack O’Lantern Orange.

Tip: Touch up around lettering with Lamp Black.

Finishing If desired, go over top edges of the ghost, the bat, and the pumpkin with a thin line of Galaxy Glitter. Allow it to dry thoroughly.

Spray with matte spray. If using outside, please add your choice of outdoor finishes such as a good, non-yellowing polyurethane.

Don’t be afraid to step outside your comfort zone and try painting this design on a different surface. An 8” x 8” canvas board works perfectly with very little adjusting.

If you like to paint tiny, reduce the pattern to fit on a domino.

©2020 Diane Marie Kellogg – Oil Creek Originals www.oilcreekoriginals.com

Line art is at 100%

©2020 Diane Marie Kellogg

Eerie Avenue Original Design by Sharon Cook

Looking for a spooky-good time this Halloween season? Just follow the pointing finger to Eerie Avenue, the place where your best ghoul-friends, Dracula, Big Red and Frank hang out!

But no worries . . . this destination won’t give you nightmares; it’s just a bunch of friends there looking to have a “boo-tiful” time together.

This project introduces a new background technique simply called streaking, done with LOTS of glazing medium and various colors mixed with a little paint. So fun and very easy to accomplish, you will be surprised by how much the background colors POP and come back to life once you apply the varnish. Have fun with this one and hope it makes you smile every brushstroke along the way.

Surface: x Pointing Finger Plaque; 18” in size; Item 31-L625; Available from Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/products/pointing-fingerplaque?_pos=1&_sid=c1899cbfb&_ss=r x

Rounded Rectangle Plaque, 4” x 12”; Item 31-L624 Available from www.cdwood.com – Item # 31-L624; Available from Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/products/roundedrectangle-plaque?_pos=1&_sid=f7cf1f996&_ss=r

Project Supplies x Stylus x Grey and white transfer paper x Tracing paper x Wire or thin ribbon for hanging the rectangle plaque from the finger x Fine grit sandpaper, sanding disk, or sanding sponge x Bubble palette (optional, but very helpful) x Ribbon or fabric scraps to tie onto wire holding plaques together (optional) x Tim Holtz Layering Stencil; Falling Stars THS115; Item 09-51413; Available from Cupboard Distributing x (HULH $YHQXH 6WHQFLO ,WHP ZZZ FGZRRG FRP Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Bright Orange x Cactus Flower x Coral Blush x Coral Shell x Cotton Candy x Deep Blush x Dioxazine Purple x Driftwood x Eucalyptus Leaf x Forest Green x Georgia Clay x Grape Juice x Jadeite Green x Lamp (Ebony) Black x Light Cinnamon Mediums: DecoArt Americana x Multi-Purpose Sealer x Dura-Clear Matte Varnish x Glazing Medium

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

Matcha Green Mermaid Tail Neutral Grey Prussian Blue Purple Cow Royal Navy Saffron Yellow Sour Apple Sunny Day Warm Beige Warm Sunset Warm White Watermelon Slice Glamour Dust—Ice Crystal

Brushes: Royal & Langnickel x Zen, Z73WO, Oval Wash, Size 3/4” x Majestic Script Liner, R4585, Size 10/0 x Aqualon Angular, 2160, Size 1/2” and ¾” x Aqualon Round, R2250, Size 8 x Zen, Z83SC, Soft Scrubber, Size 8 Chris Haughey x Chris’s Epic 924 Script Liner, Size 18/0, by Chris Haughey; Available at Cupboard Distributing; https://www.cdwood.com/products/epic-18-0-script-liner Dynasty Brush x Dynasty Stencil Pro Brushes, Sizes 1/2” and 5/8”; Available from The Brush Guys; https://www.thebrushguys.com/cgi-bin/sc-v4/proddisp.pl?client=firesaleguys&catid= 429&PRID=6475

Preparation The plaque requires no sanding. Apply Multi-purpose Sealer to the front, sides, and back of plaques. Allow to dry. If necessary, lightly sand; tack to remove any sanding dust.

Painting Instructions Background: Royal Navy: Basecoat the pointing finger and the rectangle plaques. Repeat basecoat, if needed, to obtain an opaque coverage.

Glazing Medium: In a bubble palette, create a mixture of 85% Glazing Medium and 15% Mermaid Tail; mix well to blend.

In three other bubbles in the palette, create three more mixtures, each using the same ratio of Glazing Medium to paint (85% Glazing Medium/15% paint) using the following paint colors: Eucalyptus Leaf, Warm Sunset, and Dioxazine Purple.

(Refer to photo.)

Work very quickly over these next steps, and DO NOT allow the paint to dry before blending.

Also, do one plaque at a time using the technique noted below: Streaking the Background: Using the ¾ oval wash brush, pick up some Mermaid Tail mixture and apply random horizontal streaks across the pointing finger plaque. Rinse brush and blot to remove excess moisture. Pick up some a generous amount of the Eucalyptus Leaf mixture on the brush and apply more horizontal streaks across the pointing finger plaque. It’s okay if some of the streaks run into each other; you will soon be lightly blending them together anyway. Rinse and blot brush; pick up some Warm Sunset mixture on the brush and add more horizontal streaks.

Repeat this same process with the Dioxazine Purple mixture.

Rinse brush and lightly blot.

Working quickly so that the paint does not dry, hold the brush straight up and with very light pressure on the brush tips, quickly begin stroking horizontally across the pointing finger plaque, using very light pressure, to lightly blend the colors together. (Do not worry too much if you do not particularly like any area; you will be applying more paint in a minute.) Repeat the process above, adding more paint to places wherever you would like to see it.

In another bubble in the palette, create a mixture of 85% Glazing Medium to 15% Royal Navy, and add streaks across the plaque wherever you feel the colors may be too bright or intense.

Allow all streaks to dry thoroughly before moving onto the next steps.

NOTE: The paint from the horizontal streaking will seem to fade significantly as it dries; however, once the varnish is applied at the end of the project, the colors tend to “reappear” and will POP, which will be a pleasant surprise!

Repeat the same process for the rectangular plaque.

Eucalyptus Leaf: Using the Tim Holtz Falling Stars stencil, stencil the pointing finger plaque and the rounded rectangle plaque all over with stars.

Prussian Blue: Dry brush, then float, around the outer edges of both plaques. Base the sides and the back of plaques.

Basecoats: Warm White: Undercoat all of Dracula, Big Red, Frankenstein, spider, and spider web shapes with Warm White. This will make all the other colors of the design appear much brighter.

Create the following Skin-tone Mix: Using a quarter size puddle of Warm Beige, the mix is 70% Warm Beige/15% Coral Shell/15% Cactus Flower/Two drops Light Cinnamon Use this mixture to basecoat all the faces, ears and necks. Apply two coats if necessary, for opaque and smooth coverage.

Neutral Grey: Base Dracula’s hair, the spider body and legs, and the bolt on the side of Frank’s neck.

Purple Cow: Base Dracula’s cape and Frank’s shirt.

Sour Apple: Base Dracula’s bowtie and Frank’s hair.

Coral Blush/Bright Orange: Basecoat (as an undercoat) Dracula’s shirt, Big Red’s dress (below her cape), and Frank’s jacket.

(Coral Blush is a great undercoat color for Bright Orange since that color is somewhat

transparent. Coral Blush provides opaque coverage, compliments Bright Orange, and allows the color to pop. Use Bright Orange to base over all the Coral Blush undercoats.

Grape Juice: Base Big Red’s hat.

Sunny Day: Base the star on her hat and the button on her cape.

Jadeite Green/Eucalyptus Leaf: (70% Jadeite Green/30% Eucalyptus Leaf mixture) Base the Big Red’s hatband and the thin trim on the collar of her cape.

Driftwood: Base her cape and the spider’s web.

All Faces, Necks, and Ears All faces, necks, and ears are painted in the same manner and will be included in the steps below: Warm Beige: Lightly stipple, then dry brush the center of the faces, ears, tops of noses and ears, and center of necks. Add a drop of Warm White to the mixture and repeat dry brushing to brighten highlights. Float chin on Big Red and Frank, above dimple line on Frank’s chin, EHORZ Frank’s mouth, above Red’s and Dracula’s mouths, tops of all noses, tops of ears, and the warts on the Red’s and Frank’s noses. Float the forehead (above the eyes) on Frank.

Deep Blush/Cactus Flower/Coral Shell: (Equal mixture of each color) Dracula: Dry brush, then float, below hair, bottom and insides of ears, on ears next to head, around bottom of face, below mouth, bottom of nose, and around eyes.

Big Red: Dry brush, then float, below hat, around eyes, bottom of nose, below mouth, on sides of face (excluding chin), no neck below chin, and on sides of neck. Float below scar line and around the warts on her chin.

Frank: Dry brush, then float, below hair, below stitches line on forehead, below forehead, around eyes, on ears next to head, bottom and insides of ears, bottom of nose, above mouth, around warts on nose, below dimple line on chin, bottom sides of face, on neck below chin, and on sides of chin.

Watermelon Slice: Add a drop or two of Watermelon Slice to the above mixture. Lightly dry brush cheeks and bottoms of noses. Lightly float bottoms of noses and bottom of ears.

Warm White: Base eyes and teeth on all three characters.

Watermelon Slice: Thin slightly with water and base lips on all three characters.

Lamp (Ebony) Black: Make a wash of 80% water/20% Lamp (Ebony) Black. Wash inside the mouth area of the Dracula and Big Red. Driftwood/Warm White: (Equal mixture) Float to shade teeth next to the mouths. Very thinly float the outside edges of the Warm White eyes.

Warm White: Base the stitches on Big Red’s nose and on Frank’s forehead.

Dracula Eyes: Eucalyptus Leaf/Light Cinnamon: (90% Eucalyptus Leaf/10% Light Cinnamon mixture) Very sheerly float around iris. Add another drop of Light Cinnamon and mix well. Thin slightly with water. Using the 18/0 liner, make spoke-like strokes from the outside edge of the iris leading into the black pupil area. (Use the very tip of the brush to make the lines as thin as possible.)

Add a tiny, tiny drop of Lamp (Ebony) Black to the mixture and very sheerly float the outside edge of the iris again, over the spoke-like lines.

Lamp (Ebony) Black: Base pupil and stroke eyebrows.

Warm White: Add oval highlight.

Big Red’s Eyes: Warm White/Royal Navy: (90% Warm White/10% Royal Navy mixture) Very sheerly float around iris. Thin slightly with water, and using the 18/0 liner, make spoke-like strokes in the iris. (Use the very tip of the brush to make the lines as thin as possible.) Add a couple more drops of Royal Navy to the mixture and very sheerly float the outside edge of the iris again.

Lamp (Ebony) Black: Base pupil. Stroke eyebrows.

Warm White: Add oval highlight.

Frank’s Eyes Light Cinnamon: Very sheerly float around iris. Thin slightly with water, and using the 18/0 liner, make spoke-like strokes in the iris. (Use the very tip of the brush to make the lines as thin as possible.) Add a tiny drop of Lamp (Ebony) Black to the mixture and very sheerly float the outside edge of the iris again.

Lamp (Ebony) Black: Base pupil.

Warm White: Add oval highlight

Dracula Driftwood: Stipple, then dry brush, all over his hair; add a bit of Warm White to the dirty brush and drybrush the center area of the top of his head to brighten highlights.

Neutral Grey/Lamp (Ebony) Black: (80% Neutral Grey/20% Lamp (Ebony) Black mixture) Float to shade below each line separation in his hair. Float around the outside edges of his hair. Float on both sides of the center part.

Purple Cow/Warm White: (60% Purple Cow/40% Warm White mixture) Stipple, then dry brush, all over the cape and collar to highlight.

Grape Juice: Sheerly float cape and collar to shade.

Watermelon Slice: Very, very lightly dry brush on cape on the undersides of the collar and on the bottom sides of the cape.

Dioxazine Purple: Float cape to deepen shading.

Matcha Green: Dry brush, then float, center and top of bow tie and knot in bow tie. Float top of knot and sides of bowtie to brighten highlights.

Sour Apple/Forest Green: (Equal mixture) Float to shade bow tie.

Saffron Yellow: Dry brush center of shirt.

Warm Sunset: Float to shade shirt area.

Georgia Clay: Deepen shading on shirt by floating again over Warm Sunset shading.

Warm Sunset/Saffron Yellow: Line pattern on bow tie.

NOTE: Big Red’s hair will not be completed until after all three spooky figures have been painted and lined. Instructions for the hair will be featured towards the end of this project.

Big Red Purple Cow: Lightly stipple, then dry brush over stippling, her hat, and hat brim to highlight. Lightly float a couple of spots on the top of the hat and the bottom ridge of the hat brim.

Watermelon Slice: Very, very lightly dry brush hat in a few places on the sides. Very sheerly float a couple of places on the hat brim, below that hat band and towards the ends of the hat brim.

Dioxazine Purple: Float sides of hat to shade, and next to hatband. Float on hat brim below the hat band, and along the top edge of the hatband. Repeat floating again to strengthen the color (since Dioxazine Purple is a little transparent). Add one drop of Lamp (Ebony) Black and float to further deepen shading on hat.

Jadeite Green/Warm White: (60% Jadeite Green/40% Warm White mixture) Dry brush center and hatband to highlight. Float along top of trim on witch’s cape.

Eucalyptus Green/Forest Green: (Equal mixture) Float to shade hatband. Float along the bottom and ends of trim on witch’s cape to shade.

Sunny Day/Warm White: (Equal mixture) Drybrush center and top of star on hatband.

Float top of star.

Saffron Yellow: Dry brush, then float, bottom portion of star to shade. Float bottom of star.

Mix in a drop of Bright Orange into the Saffron Yellow, then float again to deepen shading on bottom of star.

Sour Apple: Apply dots to star.

Warm White: Dry brush all over the witch’s cape.

Driftwood/Light Cinnamon: (Equal mixture) Float to shade cape and collar.

Purple Cow: Line every other stripe on cape.

Eucalyptus Leaf/Jadeite Green: (Equal mixture) Line every other stripe on cape.

Eucalyptus Leaf/Forest Green: (Equal mixture) Shade the green stripes on the cape below the collar.

Grape Juice: Shade the purple stripes on the cape below the collar.

Frankenstein

Matcha Green: Stipple, then dry brush, all over his hair; add a bit of Sunny Day to the dirty brush and drybrush the center area again to brighten highlights. Float the tips of each pointed hair strand, and one side of some of the hair strands. Float on the top center of Frank’s head.

Eucalyptus Leaf/Forest Green: (Equal mixture) Float to shade below each of the pointed hair strands, and on one side of some of them to shade. Float top sides of his head, and on hair below his ears to shade. Float beneath all strands of hair along the top and sides of head.

Saffron Yellow: Dry brush Frank’s jacket to highlight.

Warm Sunset: Float to shade Frank’s jacket.

Georgia Clay: Deepen shading on Frank’s jacket by floating over the Warm Sunset floats.

Warm White/Purple Cow: (Equal mixture) Dry brush center of shirt to highlight.

Grape Juice: Line tiny lines in ribbing of shirt. Float below ribbing and sides of shirt to shade.

Matcha Green: Base stripes on Frank’s shirt.

Sour Apple/Forest Green: (Equal mixture) Float to shade ends of stripes on Frank’s shirt.

Warm White/Driftwood: Load both colors onto the brush and blend together on palette; float bolt to highlight.

Neutral Grey/Lamp (Ebony) Black: Load both colors onto the brush and blend together on palette. Float to shade bolt.

Spider Driftwood: Drybrush spider; float top sides of lets and feet.

Neutral Grey/Lamp (Ebony) Black: (80% Neutral Grey/20% Lamp (Ebony) Black mixture) Float to shade around spider’s body; float bottom side of legs.

Warm White: Base eyes and teeth.

Watermelon Slice: Lightly float cheeks.

Warm White/Royal Navy: (Equal mixture) Base iris in eyes.

Lamp (Ebony) Black: Base pupils in eyes.

Warm White: Dot oblong center of pupils in eyes.

Coral Blush: Base nose (as an undercoat to Bright Orange).

Bright Orange: Base nose.

Saffron Yellow: Float to highlight top of nose.

Warm Sunset/Watermelon Slice: Load both colors onto the brush and blend together on palette. Float bottom of nose.

Lining Lamp (Ebony) Black: Thin paint slightly with water. Line everything using the 18/0 liner.

Line a few extra hairs in Dracula’s hair between each section (refer to photos). Softly stroke eyelashes. Line a couple of tiny hairs in the warts on the witch and Frank. Line some tiny strokes on the sides of the top portion of the bolt on Frank’s neck. Line stitching on Frank’s jacket collar.

Big Red’s Hair: Warm White: Using the 10/0 liner brush, thickly stroke on her hair strands. Some of the hair strands will cover a bit of the Dracula and Frank. (Don’t panic! She looks very strange at this point with white hair, but we will fix it as we go along.)

Coral Blush: Stroke over all the white strands of hair.

Bright Orange: Stroke over all the Coral Blush strands of hair.

Saffron Yellow: Float to highlight one side of some of the strands of hair.

Warm Sunset/Light Cinnamon: (Drop or two of Light Cinnamon added to the Warm Sunset) Float to shade one side of some of the strands of hair. Float on hair next to the hat brim (where is comes out below the hat brim.)

Lamp (Ebony) Black: Very thinly stroke the sides of a few strands of hair.

Lettering Stencil all lettering with Warm White as an undercoat for other colors painted on top.

This Way to Chills and Thrills Lettering Sunny Day: Stencil the lettering and the arrow. Without removing the stencil, stencil the top of the letters with Warm White and to bottom of the lettering with Saffron Yellow and a tiny touch of Bright Orange.

Eerie Avenue Lettering Coral Blush: Stencil the lettering with Coral Blush (as an undercoating for Bright Orange).

Bright Orange: Stencil the lettering.

Saffron Yellow: Stencil the top 25% of the lettering.

Warm Sunset: Stencil the bottom third of the lettering.

Georgia Clay: Stencil the very bottom of the lettering.

Finishing Instructions: Dura-Clear Matte Varnish: Varnish the top, sides, and back of the plaque with two coats of varnish, drying well before application.

Glamour Dust—Ice Crystal: Base generously over all the lettering, over Dracula’s bow tie, on the witch’s star on her hat and the green trim around the edge of her collar, and all over the spider and the spider web.

Use wire or thin ribbon to attach the pointing finger to the rectangular sign. Cut strips of various colored fabric scraps to tie around the wire or ribbon or use pieces of wider ribbon to tie onto the wire or ribbon.

If desired, attach a thin ribbon or wire to hang Eerie Avenue from. Have fun!

Copyright Notice: © Copyright 2020 Sharon R. Cook. All rights reserved under Pan American and international copyright conventions. This pattern may be hand copied as necessary for the purpose of transferring the design for painting. Whether this pattern is purchased as part of an electronic magazine or as a paper packet or electronic-packet, you may not resell this design in any manner, nor make copies of either for resale, to give away, or to use in teaching classes or workshops without express written consent from Sharon R. Cook and/or the owners of this electronic magazine (see Note to Teachers/Shop Owners below). You may not print the colored images for the purpose of decoupaging to a surface, nor may you sell copies of the printouts from this publication in any format. The designs may not be used as web graphics. The projects created from the patterns in this packet may be personally painted by the purchaser for fun or for sale (i.e. at local craft shows, or internet auctions such as eBay, and on their own websites or photo sites), although if shown on the internet, you must provide credit to Sharon R. Cook as the designer in your description. Manufacturing the finished product for mass marketing in national gift shows and national gift publications is prohibited. No mechanical, electronic, digital or any other method of reproduction or distribution of this pattern, line drawing, and/or instructions is authorized. Any use other than described herein is prohibited without the express written consent of the designer and author. Disclaimer: The information in this pattern packet is presented to you in good faith. Since the author/designer has no control over the physical conditions surrounding the application of the information presented, results cannot be guaranteed.

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© 2020 Deb Antonick Designs, Painting with Friends www.paintingwithdeb.com

Over the past two months, I have been spending a lot of time at my Mom’s hospital bedside. I found a lot stress relief drawing and doodling while I was with her. One day, I was doodling and began thinking of my friends Tracy and Sandy, who are both so far away. This design started as just 3 girls and then it morphed into silly witches. They became a loving memory of the 3 of us at the Oklahoma convention a couple years ago. I knew they needed to be painted.

I happened to have this amazing stencil in my stash, and it was perfect! Lots of my basic painting techniques and you can create these fun whimsical gals!

Surface: 10" x 15 3/4" Rectangle Palette Plaque #31-L585 www.cdwood.com Supplies: Stencil – Haunted House 09-19183 www.cdwood.com 1/8” Polka Dot Stencil ¼” and ½” Check Stencil Painters tape, or post-it notes (for masking) Small point stylus DecoArt Acrylics: Bahama Blue Burnt Sienna Chartreuse Yellow Cotton Candy Dioxazine Purple Foliage Green Hauser Dark Green Lamp Black Lavender Leaf Green Light Buttermilk

Light Lime Mermaid Tail Peacock Teal Purple Cow Scarlet Snow “Titanium” White Sunny Day Tangerine Warm Beige Warm Sunset Zinc

Mediums: DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer Ultra-Matte Varnish Brushes: available from www.thebrushguys.com Dynasty Black Gold (206 Series) #4, #6, #8, ¾” Flat shaders 3/8” or ½” Angle Shaders 10/0 or 20/0 Script liner 206SL #1 Round 206R 5/8” Mop Brush (Decorator Series 400) ½” Dynasty Stencil Pro brush Painters Tip: I use Post-it notes to mask off areas that I do not want to stencil over.

Preparation: Basecoat the board with Warm Sunset mixed 1:1 with DecoArt Multi-Purpose Sealer. Let dry.

Sand lightly.

Basecoat the background using a slip-slap/crisscross motion using the ¾” flat brush loaded with Warm Sunset and corner loaded into Tangerine. Repeat this process until the background is complete and you have a subtle, mottled look. Let dry.

Stencil the top half of the background using the “Haunted house” stencil and Lamp Black.

Transfer on the design.

Shade around the design with Scarlet.

Painting Instructions: Witch Faces, Necks and Hands: Basecoat with Warm Beige. Shade with Burnt Sienna. Float highlights with Light Buttermilk.

Lightly wash or drybrush the cheeks with Scarlet.

Paint in the eyes with Snow “Titanium” White. Paint the eyeball with Bahama Blue. Dot the pupil with Lamp Black, then dot a tiny highlight with Snow “Titanium” White.

Paint the Mouth with Lamp Black. Paint the teeth with Snow “Titanium” White.

Line all the features with Lamp Black. I used my 20/0 script liner.

Witches (Left to Right): Left Witch: Basecoat the hair with Foliage Green, Shade with Leaf Green. Highlight with Chartreuse Yellow.

Deepen shading with Hauser Dark Green. Float additional highlights with Sunny Day. Basecoat the Hat and the Dress with Lamp Black.

Stencil the hat with Light Buttermilk using a ¼” check stencil.

Stencil the dress with Light Buttermilk using a 1/8” polka dot stencil.

Shade/highlight with Zinc. You can add a little shading to the Light Buttermilk checks on the hat as well. This tones the brightness down a bit.

Drybrush each of the checks on the hat with a little Snow “Titanium” White.

Ghoul Basket: Basecoat with Light Buttermilk. Shade with Zinc. Drybrush and float highlights with Snow “Titanium” White.

Basecoat the eyes with Bahama Blue. Shade with Peacock Teal.

Highlight with Light Lime. Paint the eyeball with Lamp Black. Dot with Light Buttermilk.

Line the handle, strings and stitching with Lamp Black.

Wormies: Basecoat with Purple Cow. Shade with Lavender. Highlight with Cotton Candy. Deepen shading with Dioxazine Purple. Dot the eyes with Light Buttermilk, then the pupils with Lamp Black. Dot the nose with Scarlet.

Middle Witch: Basecoat the hair with Purple Cow, Shade with Lavender. Highlight with Cotton Candy. Deepen shading with Dioxazine Purple. Float additional highlights with more Cotton Candy.

Basecoat the Hat and the Dress with Lamp Black.

Stencil the hat with Light Buttermilk using the 1/8” polka dot stencil.

Basecoat the stripes on the dress with Light Buttermilk.

Shade/highlight with Zinc, including the Light Buttermilk stripes.

Drybrush the stripes with Snow “Titanium” White.

Right Witch: Basecoat the hair with Bahama Blue, Shade with Peacock Teal. Highlight with Light Lime.

Deepen shading with Mermaid Tail. Float additional highlights with more Light Lime.

Basecoat the Hat and the Dress with Lamp Black.

Basecoat the stripes on the hat with Light Buttermilk.

Stencil the dress with Light Buttermilk using a 1/2” polka dot stencil.

Stencil the dress sleeve with Light Buttermilk using a 1/4” polka dot stencil.

Shade/highlight with Zinc. You can add a little shading to the Light Buttermilk checks on the dress as well. This tones the brightness down a bit.

Drybrush each of the checks and the stripes on the hat with a little Snow “Titanium” White.

Froggie: Basecoat with Foliage Green, Shade with Leaf Green. Float highlights, then drybrush the frog’s tummy with Chartreuse Yellow.

Deepen shading with Hauser Dark Green. Float additional highlights with Sunny Day. Basecoat the eye with Light Buttermilk. Shade with Bahama Blue.

Highlight with Snow “Titanium” White. Dot the pupil with Lamp Black. Dot the highlights with Snow “Titanium” White.

Line the bow with Lamp Black.

Finishing the Witches: Outline as desired with Lamp Black.

Dot the hat, collar and sleeves with Snow “Titanium” White.

Orange Lettering on Dresses: Tape the stencil into place; tape or mask off around the portion that will use.

Stencil the words first with a Light Lime, make sure your brush is fairly dry for this first step. It will help the orange to be brighter by starting with an undercoat. Let dry.

Using the same dirty brush, stencil again Warm Sunset. Let dry. Repeat one more time, this should give you a nice orange.

With the same dirty brush, pick up a little Tangerine and work into the brush on the palette.

Softly stencil over the top half of the lettering.

With the same dirty brush, pick up a little Scarlet and work into the brush on the palette. Softly stencil over the bottom half of the lettering.

If you have a line, just pick up straight Warm Sunset and softly stencil over the line to blend.

Final Stencil Details: Line the right side of all the lettering with Bahama Blue.

Finishing: Following manufacturer’s directions, varnish with Ultra-Matte Varnish.

Happy Haunting -

Pixelated Palettet August 2020. Copyright © 2020 Deb Antonick and Terrye French Designs. “Painting with Friends” – All Rights Reserved.

May be painted for fun or profit. No mass producing.

Photocopying or mechanical reproduction is strictly prohibited.

A pattern must be purchased for all students when teaching this project. Credit must be given to the designer when selling your painted pieces on websites such as Etsy.

Pixelated Palettet August 2020. Copyright © 2020 Deb Antonick and Terrye French Designs. “Painting with Friends” – All Rights Reserved.

Photocopying or mechanical reproduction is strictly prohibited. May be painted for fun or profit. No mass producing.

A pattern must be purchased for all students when teaching this project. Credit must be given to the designer when selling your painted pieces on websites such as Etsy.

Eye of Darkness Original Design by Elisabetta De Maria, CDA

Dearest painting friends, I immediately fell in love with this bat, his is a gentle gaze. Many of us when thinking about a bat, we imagine something that would terrify us. However, my bat is shy and just waiting for your consent. Look closer to appreciate his gentle spirit.

I do hope you like him. ….Happy Painting my friends!

Surface x Sheet pastelmat 35 x 50 Grey x Black and White Reference Photo of the Bat. You can enlarge or reduce it to a size you choose.

Supplies: Photo Graphite Paper Hb2 Pencil Rubber Pencil Sharpener Paper Towels Blending Stump (Smudge).

Note: All colored pencils are available from Dick Blick. https://www.dickblick.com/ Stabilo CarbOthello Pastel Pencils 100 Titanium White 210 Orange Yellow 215 Indian Yellow 385 Violet Deep 435 Ultramarine Blue Light 460 Turquoise Blue 585 Olive Green 620 Burnt Ochre 625 Burnt Umber 635 Bister Caran d’ache Pastel Pencils 009 Black 046 Cassel Earth 064 Medium Russet 089 Dark Carmine 212 Chromium Oxide Green 408 Dark Sepia 741 Dark Flesh 5 745 Dark Flesh 40 901 Chinese White

640 642 670 675 681 706 708 720 726 750

Caput Mortuum Violet Caput Mortuum Violet Light Burnt Sienna French Red Ochre Flesh Tint Light Gray 4 Gray 5 Cold Gray 1 Cold Gray 4 Neutral Black

Derwent Pastel Pencils TC 04 Glowing Embers TC 07 Lavender TC 11 Mountain Blue TC 15 Green Moss TC 20 Natural P 270 Red Violet

Soft Pastel Rembrandt 700,5 Mouse Grey

Important Tips For each section, always start on the left side and continue to the right: (left-handed people will work on the contrary) This is to avoid dirtying the work with the hand.

Place a paper towel over any painted/colored section to prevent dirtying with the oil of your hand or removing the color.

Always follow the growth direction of the fur.

It is acceptable to blend colors with your fingers.

Always have sharp pencils.

Let’s Paint After placing the photo on the pastelmat, place the sheet of graphite paper in the middle, graphite side down.

With a pencil or stylus trace over all the guidelines, contours and details.

Place the colored photo next to your work so you can check step by step all the details.

Eyes (Fig 1) As I explained before, it is preferable to start with the left eye and immediately after, we paint the remaining eye.

With the pastel Carbothello n 750 (Black) draws the shape of the pupil and fill with the same color inside.

With the same color, outlines the shape of the eye.

Paint the light spot with Chinese White Caran D’ache.

Work inside the eye with Carbothello n 670, 620 and 625 pastels and blend with the smudge.

Continue working with Carbothello 675, 670 and 635 and blend.

Darken with Caran D’ache 064 and 069 and work again with Carbothello 675.

Illuminate with Carbothello 681.

Create the inside of the eye with Carbothello 640.

Continue to work with Carbothello 620, 215, 675 and 681.

Darken around the eye with Caran D’ache 046, 408 and 009.

Accent the inside of the eye with Carbothello 675 and 210.

Eyes (fig 1)

Fur: Paint the fur around the eye with Derwent TC04 and illuminate with Caran D’ache 741.

Work the head with Carbothello 750 and paint the hair with 100 and Caran D’ache 741.

Ears (Fig 2) Work the ear alternating between Caran D’ache 408 and Carbothello 100.

Darken the central part with Carbothello 750.

Paint the hair inside with Caran D’ache 745 and 741.

Work the outer edge with Derwent TC20 and give a touch of Carbothello 706 to the top.

Ears (fig 2)

Wing (Fig 3 on following page) Studying the photo, work the wing with Derwent TC20, TC15, TC07 and TC11.

Paint the dark parts with Carbothello 750.

Work some stitches with Carbothello 640, 460 and Derwent P270.

Blend and continue working until the desired results are achieved.

Strengthen the dark parts with Caran D’ache 009 and make the hair with Chinese White.

Wing (fig 3)

Inch (fig 4)

Thumb (Fig 4) Paint the tip with Derwent TC11 and Carbothello 460.

Darken with Caran D’ache 408 and Carbothello 750.

Illuminate the tip with Caran D’ache 745 and the center with Carbothello 625.

Blend and resume the colors until you get the final result.

Paint the dark part with Caran D’ache 408 and the hairs of the lower part with 745.

Paint the upper hairs with Carbothello 100 and darken with Carbothello 750.

Work the part near the wing with Carbothello 640.

Work around the right eye with Derwent TC04 and illuminate with Carbothello 100.

Work with Caran D’ache 741 and 745 and paint dark hair with Carbothello 750.

Give a touch of Carbothello 625.

Nose (Fig 5) on following page Paint the nostrils with Carbothello 750 and work the nose with Derwent TC07, TC11 and TC15.

Illuminate with Carbothello 708, 435 and Caran D’ache 212.

Work the muzzle with Caran D’ache 741 and darken with 046 and 408.

Illuminate with Carbothello 681.

Continue to work with Carbothello 625, 708 and Derwent TC15.

Nose (fig 5)

Light up with Carbothello 100 and darken with 750.

Paint the right side of the nose with Carbothello 750 and 708.

Working with Derwent TC11, TC07, TC20 and TC15.

Give a touch of Caran D’ache 212 and Derwent 270.

Fade with your fingers.

Working with Carbothello 750, paint the hair with 100 and 620.

Reinforce with Caran D’ache 009.Paint the entire left side of the nose with Carbothello 750.

Front Wing (fig 6) Paint the fur with Carbothello 100.

Front Wing (Fig 6) Studying the photo, paint each part with different shaded colors between them.

Working with Derwent TC11, TC07, TC20 and TC15.

Fade with your fingers.

Now looking carefully at the photo add Carbothello 460 and Derwent 270.

Illuminate with Carbothello 435 and Caran D’ache 212.

Darken with Caran D’ache 408 and give a touch of Carbothello 640.

The lightest parts are painted with Caran D’ache 745 and darkened with 408.

Work one part at a time using the colors until you get the final result.

Darken with Carbothello 750 and light with 100.

Accentuate with Caran D’ache 009 and Chinese White.

Background Paint the background with Rembrandt 700.5 To protect your work, place it in a glass frame.

Original Design by Chéryl Poulin Based on a photo by Betty-Anne MacDonald www.your-decorative-painting-resource.com

There is nothing quite as lovely as the color of maple leaves when autumn wields its loaded brush of golds, oranges and reds.

Surface 8-1/2” x 8-1/2 “x 2” Hinged Wooden Box Optional surface: 8” square galvanized metal box, sku: 11-20102 https://www.cdwood.com/collections/surfaces/products/8-square-galvanized-metal-box Supplies Basic Painting Supplies Tissue Paper Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Charcoal Grey Black Plum Buttermilk Morning Mist Persimmon Plum Suede Red Alert Saffron Yellow Sunny Day

Mediums: DecoArt Americana Multi-surface Sealer Dura-clear Gloss Varnish Dura-clear Matte Varnish

Brushes: Dynasty, Black Gold #6 filbert, series 206fil #12 shader, series 206s #1 liner, series 206l 3/4" flat wash, series 206fw Heinz Jordan 1/4 domed round blender Preparation Please refer to the step-by-step color worksheet, shading diagram and photo Sand the wood, tack off the dust, then apply a coat of sealer using the ¾-inch flat brush.

When dry, sand and tack again.

Background color Mix of Charcoal Grey and Black Plum, 4:1. Keep excess mix in an airtight container.

Background texture Using the ¾-inch flat brush, apply a generous coat of the background color to the top of the lid.

Do not be concerned about a perfect application. While wet, lay down crumpled tissue paper to cover completely.

While still wet, apply a topcoat of the background color mixture, gently smoothing down the tissue while encouraging creases and texture. Work carefully so as not to rip the tissue paper.

Allow time to dry completely. Basecoat to ensure even coverage. Let dry thoroughly before transferring the outline of the leaf using white graphite paper.

Step 1: Undercoating/Basecoating the Leaf Note: When applying the undercoat, avoid the dark areas shown on the line drawing.

Using the filbert brush, undercoat the leaf with Buttermilk. When dry, basecoat the leaf with Sunny Day. Lightly transfer the details of the leaf with dark graphite paper.

Apply a wash of Persimmon to the “curled” leaf tips and stem.

Use liner to add veins with thinned Black Plum.

When dry, carefully erase all visible graphite lines.

Step 1

Step 2: Creating Form Avoiding the curled leaf tips, apply a wash of Saffron Yellow to the main body of the leaf using the filbert.

Use the #12 flat and Persimmon, to float shading along the straight edges of the curled tips.

Use the #12 flat to add floated highlights of Sunny Day to the pointy edges of the tips.

Use the #12 flat to softly float Red Alert under the curled leaf tips at the back of the leaf and behind the curled tips at the front.

Step 2

Add more floats between the veins by the stem.

Repeat until the red areas are quite vivid. I did 4-5 soft floats to achieve the desired results.

Step 3: Adding Washes Use the filbert to add a wash of Red Alert to the main area of the leaf.

Step 3

When dry, add a wash of Persimmon the main area. At this point your leaf should be a “glowing” reddish orange. You can add more washes to make it redder or more orange depending on your taste or how transparent your wash applications are. There is no right or wrong.

Use the flat brush and Black Plum, float some dark areas under the curled leaf tips at the back of the leaf and behind the curled tips at the front.

Step 4: Reflections Transfer the pattern for the reflections.

Step 4

Basecoat the reflections and the small triangular area on the leaf with Plum Suede.

With the flat brush, float shading on the reflections with Black Plum. Use the shading diagram for reference.

With the flat brush, float highlights with Morning Mist. Use the background mix to clean up any “furry” edges on your leaves and reflections. Using the liner and thinned Black Plum, neaten the shaded areas around the curled leaf tips.

Step 5: Creating Decay To create the decaying marks on the leaf, apply clean water to the area.

While wet, load the liner in thinned Black Plum and add droplets here and there. The water will disperse the paint, creating blurred edges. Do as much or little as you like. Refer to the full image photo for guidance.

Step 5

Step 6: Twigs & Berries Transfer the berries and twigs around the base of the box.

Twigs: Basecoat the twigs with Plum Suede.

Use the liner to drag some Black Plum along the lower edges of the twigs to suggest shading.

Use the liner to drag Morning Mist along the top to suggest highlights.

Step 6

Berries: Undercoat with Buttermilk. Basecoat with Sunny Day. When dry, transfer the division lines between the berries.

Use the flat to float Red Alert around the outside of each berry.

With the flat, shade between the berries using floats of Black Plum.

Dry brush Sunny Day highlights with the domed round blender.

Repeat with a touch of Buttermilk.

For the shine dot highlight, use the liner and Buttermilk.

Add a dot at the blossom end with Black Plum.

Finishing Erase all visible graphite lines. Sign your work.

Following manufacturer’s directions, apply 2-3 coats of gloss varnish. To add more interest, when the varnishing is done, go back and varnish just the leaf with the matte varnish.

Heartfelt thanks to my friend, Betty-Anne MacDonald for allowing me to use her photographs for inspiration.

Original Design by Linda Hollander paintingfool@live.com

Create a fun background for a Halloween sign using brush mixes, wet in wet blending, and the dirty brush methods! Using transferred patterns for lettering is a snap and the 3-d broom is wicked good fun to create with polymer clay.

Surface: Hanging Sign Board with White Cord 8” x 12.5 x ¾” Item #2159 from www.jbwood.com Project Supplies: Thick jute twine (optional) Premo Sculpey Item #PE02 5001 (2 oz block of white polymer clay) Hard non-porous surface to work clay on Craft knife Baby wipes Toothpick Sewing needle or straight pin Super glue Small tray for baking clay Home oven and aluminum foil or dedicated clay oven Silver toned jewelry findings: 6” of chain, heads pins (2), medium sized jump rings (2) 2 pairs of needle nose pliers Thumb tacks (2) Sandpaper Tracing paper Graphite paper Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Bittersweet Chocolate Buttermilk Grape Juice Honey Brown Indian Turquoise Brushes: Royal Aqualon: Shader Series R2150 #12 Liner Series R2250 10/0, 1, 3 Wash Series R2700 1” Angular Series 2160: ½”

Lamp Black Periwinkle Snow Titanium White Spiced Pumpkin Summer Squash Mediums: DecoArt American Multi-Purpose Sealer Dura-Clear Soft Touch Varnish Staining and Antiquing Medium

Notes: Use appropriately sized brushes unless otherwise noted.

Use water to thin paint for sheer floats.

To brush mix colors, pick up two different colors on the brush and allow them to blend slightly as you paint.

Preparation: Remove the cord that came with the surface. Apply Multi-Purpose Sealer. Let dry then sand lightly to smooth. Remove dust.

Basecoat: Use Lamp Black to base the vertical runners and the edges of the boards as well as the grooves between the boards (refer to photo #1) Let dry then sand edges of the runners to distress (optional).

Photo 1

Painting Instructions: Background Use brush mixes and the dirty brush method to paint the background boards. Work from the bottom of the surface upward. Work quickly so colors blend wet into wet. Do not over blend! It’s important to leave colors slightly unblended. If the paint begins to drag pick up a touch of water to the brush and keep it moving! Stroke the boards horizontally to enhance the woodgrain look.

Photo 2

Use the 1” wash brush and a brush mix of Indian Turquoise and Snow (Titanium) White to base the bottom board.

Pick up Periwinkle on the dirty brush and base the next board.

Brush mix Periwinkle and Grape Juice on the dirty brush to base the 3rd board.

Pick up Grape Juice + a touch of Periwinkle and base the top board.

Finally, use the dirty brush to blend in faint touches of purple on the lower two boards (refer to photo #2) Let dry.

Corner-load the shader with Lamp Black. Set the brush on the edge of a board and wiggle back and forth creating an irregular border all along the outer edges of the boards.

Use the liner and slightly thinned Lamp Black to cracks in the wood. Begin stroking from the black edge then fade the line out.

Apply a light coat of Multi-Purpose Sealer to the background to protect it and make mistakes easy to remove.

Moon: Make a tracing of the pattern. Transfer the outer edge of the moon for now.

Use the shader and Snow (Titanium) White to drybrush the glow around the moon’s outer edges.

Use Buttermilk to base the moon until opaque.

Float Summer Squash on the right side of the moon and sheer Spiced Pumpkin on the left.

Use the pattern as a guide for placement to float the craters with sheer Spiced Pumpkin.

Transfer lettering and bats. Use Lamp Black to basecoat. Float sheer Snow (Titanium) White to create highlights on the bats.

Use the photo as a guide and the stylus to add dip dots for stars in Snow (Titanium) White and Summer Squash.

Witches Hat: Transfer the pattern. Use Grape Juice to base crown and brim of hat. Use sheer Lamp Black to float shading on left side of crown and both sides of brim. Use sheer Snow (Titanium) White to float a highlight on the right side of the crown and in the center of the brim.

Use Lamp Black to base the hatband. Use sheer Snow (Titanium) White to float highlights and Summer Squash to paint the buckle.

“Broom Repair” Lettering Use Lamp Black to base the lettering. Use Summer Squash to add highlights.

Notes on polymer clay: x Utensils and bakeware used for polymer clay are no longer safe for food. x Use baby wipes to clean hands and tools after using polymer clay. x Follow manufacturer’s instructions for baking time and temperatures. x Polymer clay cures at low very baking temperatures. x Do not use spray sealers on baked clay as they are not compatible.

Use a craft knife to cut the clay block in half. Knead each half until the clay becomes easy to handle.

Creating the Broom: (Refer to photo#3 and #4 on following page) Broom handle: Roll a one piece of clay into a ball then roll into a 5” snake. Taper one end slightly and curl it.

Use the craft knife to cut the other end blunt. Use the pattern as a guide for shaping the handle.

Use a pin or sewing needle to scribe woodgrain lines and worm holes. Use water on your index finger to smooth clay as needed.

Broom head:

Photo 3

Roll the other piece of clay into a cylinder. Taper one end to form the top of the head using the photo as a guide. Slightly flatten the lower end of the head to manipulate it into a flared shape. Use the handle of a thin paintbrush to indent the bottom of the head.

Use a pin or sewing needle to indent details. Smooth as needed with a wet finger.

Cut the toothpick down with pliers to about 1.5”. Insert the pointed end about halfway into the center of the broom handle. Carefully insert the other end into the top of the broom head.

Cut the eye pins down with pliers. Insert one pin into the broom handle and the other into the head until the 2 parts meet.

Remove the broom head from the toothpick for now.

Cover a small sheet pan with foil then place a piece of parchment or paper on the foil. Lay the clay on the paper. If you are using your home oven, make a tent of aluminum foil to place over the clay so the clay particles do not harm your oven. Bake the clay according to manufacturer’s directions. Allow the clay to cool before handling it.

Once cooled tug lightly on the eye pins to see if they are secure. If they pull out, add a small drop of super glue to the end of the pin and reinsert into the holes.

Painting the Broom: Use Honey Brown to base the handle until opaque. Let dry thoroughly then apply a thin coat of Multi-Purpose Sealer. Mix Bittersweet Chocolate with Staining and Antiquing Medium (1:1).

Apply to the handle making sure to work the mixture into the nooks and crannies. Let air dry for 20-30 minutes. Do not use heat to speed drying time or you may not be able to remove excess medium.

Photo 4

Use a damp cloth or shop towel to remove the dried medium from the high areas. It is best to wipe across the grain so as not to lift the color from the depressions. Set the handle aside.

Use Summer Squash to base the broom head until opaque. Let dry then seal. Mix Honey Brown and Staining and Antiquing Medium (1:1) and cover the broom head. Let dry then wipe off excess.

Finishing: Apply varnish to the sign and broom parts. Add a drop of glue to the toothpick and insert the broom head onto the toothpick.

Use both pairs of pliers to open the jump rings and chain links. Position the ring or link with the cut at 12:00. Position the pliers at 9:00 and 3:00. Pull one pair toward you and the other away from you. To close the ring or link, reverse the process.

Open the center link in the chain and remove it. You will now have 2 lengths of 3” chain. You can shorten the chain as needed by removing links.

Open a jump ring and attach to one end of the chain and the eye pin. Close the jump ring.

Repeat with the other chain.

Turn the surface over and center the broom under the sign. Attach chain to the back of the sign with thumbtacks.

Cut a 16” length of twine for a hanger. Thread the twine through the back of the holes and knot off in the front. Cut off excess.

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Original Design by Phyllis Spaw

This is the second in a series of the Graveyard Shift patterns.

The first design was published in the August 2019 issue of the Pixelated Palette.

If you place both designs side by side, with the witches facing each other, the two trees will connect to form one, huge graveyard tree.

Surface: x 12” x 9” Rectangle Surface of your choice.

Supplies: x Usual Acrylic painting tools x Brush cleaner x Pencil/eraser x Small Ball Stylus x Painter’s tape x Light and Dark transfer paper x Rags or paper towels x Medium grit sandpaper x Rust-oleum clear satin sealer Optional Supplies: x 2” hinge with appropriate size screws for the thickness of your board/surface x Electric drill with appropriate size bit, or screw driver to attach the hanger x Black spray paint-flat finish, if spray painting your own hinge x Pointed tip cotton swabs-purchased in makeup department Brushes x #6 filbert Robert Simmons E67 x 18/0 liner Papillon x #2 round Papillon x 1 ½” flat brush Plaid x 5/8” stencil Dynasty x #10 scruffy or worn flat Dynasty Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics x Warm White x Burnt Orange x Lamp Black x Cadmium Yellow x Tuscan Red

Tips:

Ì Ì Ì Ì Ì

Ì Most basecoated areas will require two coats of paint for opaque coverage Ì Refer to color photo, or worksheets for shading and highlighting.

Unless otherwise specified, I usually thin my paints slightly before I begin to paint. If the instructions say to use thinned paint, you will need to thin it down a bit more. It is most likely for outlining, for which the paint should be close to ink like consistency.

You can shade by either floating or dry brushing.

I do touch ups as I move throughout the painting.

Keep pointed Q-tips on hand to remove paint in small areas.

Use vertical strokes when painting the shed.

Always be sure to use spray paint or spray the sealer in a well-ventilated area. Read the instructions on the back of the can for proper use.

Preparation Depending on your surface, if necessary, lightly sand the edges with the sandpaper. Basecoat the entire board using the 1 ½” flat brush and a coat of Warm White. Allow to dry.

Sky Make a very light pencil line in the area where the grass will meet the horizon. Base coat the sky down to where it meets the horizon in Burnt Orange using a 1 ½” wet flat brush. Allow to dry completely in between coats. Apply two more coats, or until you have a good coverage.

Rinse out the brush in the water basin and wipe if on to a paper towel. Load the same brush in Cadmium Yellow and begin brushing it back and forth in the center of the painting, stretching some random areas all the way out to the edges. Load your brush very lightly. Rinse the brush out and quickly wipe it off on a paper towel, then lightly blend some Burnt Orange back into the Cadmium Yellow, brushing inward. Do this on both the left and right sides.

Rinse the brush again and wipe it off, then very lightly blend it all the way across starting at the top and finishing at the bottom, where the ground meets the sky.

Repeat these steps until you are satisfied. Allow to dry completely before moving on to the next step.

Grass Load the 1 ½” wet flat brush in Lamp Black and begin brushing it from the bottom up, leaving wispy grass at the very top bringing it up into the horizon line. Make some of the wispy grass longer and some shorter. Pick up a bit of water as needed to help move the paint. Allow to dry and repeat this step.

This pattern is designed to fit on a 9”x12” surface, however, you can resize the line drawing for your surface. Using a sharp pencil or fine line marker, trace the line drawing onto tracing paper.

If you have previously painted the first design from last year’s Pixelated Palette and want the tree parts to align, lay your first surface beside the new surface and position tracing paper making sure the trees match properly. Based on the background color, begin to transfer main pattern outlines using either light or dark transfer paper.

Witch Add the witch and her broom in some Lamp Black using the #2 round. Allow to dry and apply another coat. Add the highlights in some thinned Warm White. Repeat until you are satisfied.

Shed Mix a bit of Lamp Black with some Warm White until you have a medium dark grey. Base coat the shed in this color using the #2 round. Add more Lamp Black for the shaded side.

Repeat until you have a good coverage.

Mix a bit of Burnt Orange with some Tuscan Red until you have a red orange like color and lightly brush over the shed using the #2 round. Use a damp brush and a very light touch of the brush. Use feather like strokes. Add the horizontal lines across the shed in some thinned Lamp Black. Add the door, roof and windows in Lamp Black. Allow to dry and lightly brush a few random areas with the medium grey along with a bit of Warm White. Outline the door and windows in some thinned Warm White. Add highlights on the roof in Warm White by very lightly brushing the paint across the top of the roof and then quickly brushing in downward with a damp brush before it dries. You can use a small damp filbert to blend it down ward if you choose, or the #2 round.

Trees Add the trees in a mix of Warm White and Lamp Black for a very dark grey, using the #2 round, #6 filbert, and the #18/0 liner brush.

Lightly brush Warm White on top of that using very little paint when doing so. Brush some across, some up, some down, some heavier, and some lighter amounts as well.

Brush with the side of the brush not the tip.

Tombstones Base coat the tombstones using the #2 round in the same mix as you did the trees using less Lamp Black for a medium grey. Lightly brush and tap some Lamp Black on them. Add the R.I.P. in some thinned Lamp Black using the 18/0 liner. Highlight the edges in Warm White mixed with a touch of Lamp Black, using the #2 round.

Scarecrow Basecoat the scarecrow, excluding the head, in 2-3 coats of Lamp Black using the #2 round. Allow to dry in between coats. Once dry, load the brush in Lamp Black and pick up a little bit of Warm White. Lightly brush it across your paint palette to remove some of the paint, then lightly brush on the highlights. Lightly skim some Warm White on the post that holds the scarecrow in place. Add the head in Burnt Orange. Repeat coats until satisfied with coverage. Add the eyes, nose, mouth, and highlight on the left in Cadmium Yellow.

Fence (picture on following page) Add the fence post in the same dark grey you mixed for the trees using the #2 round. Repeat until you are satisfied. Lightly skim some Warm White on the fence in a dry brush technique.

Grass Highlights Lightly tap in some grass around the shed, fence and tombstones in Warm White using the old worn #10 flat brush. Use very little paint when doing so. Randomly add some wispy grass in some thinned Warm White using the #18/0 liner brush by the shed.

Seal Following manufacturer’s instructions, spray with one or two coats of the clear satin sealer.

Hanger I used an old hinge I had laying around. I spray painted it in a flat black spray paint. You can purchase a black hinge if you choose not to spray paint your own. Be sure to buy appropriately sized screws for the thickness of the wood.

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Halloween Party Tree Original Design by Martha Smalley Apple Tree Cottage Designs What could be more fun that a Halloween Party under a tree in an enchanted forest? The stars are twinkling, the magical wind is blowing, and all is right in this bewitching world. The old tree is decorated for some Halloween merriment! Don't be late for the fun and frivolity!!!

Surface: Tree Plaque. Measures 14-3/4" x 17" and is cut from high-density 1/8" thick MDF. Available from Cupboard Distributing.

Supplies: 220 Grit Sandpaper Tack Cloth Micron 0.5 Black Archival Pen Art Minds Stylus Set Hearts and Stars Stencil Available from Cupboard Distributing Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Black Plum Canyon Orange Deep Periwinkle Emperor's Gold Metallic Paint Irish Moss Lamp Black

Persimmon Soft Black Sunny Day True Blue Warm White

Mediums: Brushes: Liquitex® Flow Aid Flat, Angled and Liner Brushes Americana Sealer/Finisher Matte DecoArt Mop Brush – TB113 DecoArt Americana Stencil 4 Piece Brush Set Techniques: Shading: If shading is a challenge for you, try using DecoArt Easy Float. Easy Float is a blending and floating medium for use with acrylic paints. It makes floating color easier for creating shading and highlighting effects on painting projects. Using an angled brush, dip the back in the medium and the tip in the paint. Brush back and forth on your palette until the paint blends slightly into the medium and then paint. Use a mop brush to soften the edge. It is better to use several light coats to achieve the best effect.

Dry Brushing: Load an old, round scruffy brush with the color you will be using. Remove most of the paint by brushing it onto a paper towel. Apply the paint in a circular motion. Use a light touch so that some of the background will show through.

Line Work and Details: Use the #10/0 for all the line work. Thin the paint with water to an ink-like consistency.

Shading: Use a mop brush to soften and blend shading.

Martha’s Tips: Use a stylus, toothpicks and the ends of paintbrushes to add dots to your painted design.

You will have much more control over the shape and size than with a brush!

A hairdryer can be your best friend when it comes to speeding up the drying process!

Follow all the manufacturers’ label instructions for proper product usage. Use the color photo as reference for shading and details.

I use flat brushes to basecoat, float with angled brushes and use a liner brush to paint details.

Preparation: Seal the plaque by spraying it with two coats of Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte.

Paint the tree foliage True Blue.

Paint the tree trunk and branches Lamp Black.

“Stitch” around the trunk and limbs using a liner brush and Warm White.

Apply the lettering using a liner brush and Deep Periwinkle.

Shade around the foliage using Soft Black.

Drybrush the two areas as indicated in the photo with Warm White.

Drybrush lightly all the way around the tree using Soft Black.

Painting Directions Bat: Paint the moon Warm White to block the background then paint it with th two coats of Sunny Day. Shade along the sides and bottom of the moon using Canyon Orange.

Drybrush the moon glow along the outside edge using Moon Yellow.

Paint the bat Lamp Black.

Apply the details to the bat using a liner brush, small stylus and Moon Yellow.

Line the bat's flight path using the Micron Pen. Boo Banner: Paint the three pennants with two coats of Warm White.

Paint the top of the pennants Sunny Day. Paint the center of the pennants Canyon Orange and drybrush lightly with Sunny Day Leave the tips white.

Line and apply the lettering using the Micron Pen.

Spider Web: Line the spider web using the Micron Pen (it will be placed over the area you dry-brushed with white... refer to photo for placement).

Highlight the web by lining it lightly using Warm White.

Spider and Jack 'o Lantern: Paint the spider Irish Moss.

Line the legs using Lamp Black and a liner brush.

Paint the triangle on its head Lamp Black Line around the body using Warm White.

Dot spider eyes first using Lamp Black and then with a tiny dot of Warm White for a highlight.

Paint the Jack 'o Lantern Sunny Day. Shade the sections first with Black Plum and then again with Canyon Orange.

Line the features using Lamp Black.

Paint the witch's hat Lamp Black then drybrush using Warm White.

Ghost: Paint the ghost with two coats of Warm White.

Line the mouth with Lamp Black Paint the eyes Lamp Black, dot with small stylus and Warm White.

“Stitch” around the ghost using the Micron Pen. Black Jack: Paint the using Lamp Black. It will be easier to paint it solid black and go back and paint the nose, eyes and mouth True Blue.

Line the string using the Micron Pen. Sign: Paint the sign Moon Yellow Paint the frame Canyon Orange.

Line the string using the Micron Pen. Apply the lettering using the Micron Pen. Owl: Paint the owl Warm White to block the background.

Paint the owl again using Deep Periwinkle.

Use a large stylus and Warm White to do the eyes.

Dot the eyes again using a smaller stylus and Lamp Black.

Add a highlight with a tiny dot of Warm White.

Paint the triangle on his head Lamp Black.

Paint the beak Canyon Orange and outline using the Micron Pen. Line the wings using Lamp Black Line the breast using Lamp Black then line and dot the scallop “feathers” using the Micron Pen. Paint the two small triangles in the ears Canyon Orange and outline with the Micron Pen.

Wind: Drybrush the swirls of wind using Warm White.

Line the swirls with Warm White.

Use the smallest stylus to dot along the swirls.

Stars and Fireworks: Use the stencil, a stencil brush and Lamp Black to apply the stars (refer to the photo for placement).

Use a large stylus to dot the center of each star with Moon Yellow.

Line the fireworks using Emperor's Gold.

Finishing Touches: Spatter the tree lightly using Lamp Black.

Following manufacturer’s instructions, apply several light coats of Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte.

Enlarge pattern 169%

Magic Potion ǡ ̹ʹͲʹͲ

She is not too scary. She won’t give you a fright. But she’ll be fun to paint for Halloween Night. Grab your favorite refreshment. Some paints. Brushes too. And paint this whimsical witch and her favorite Halloween brew.

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Royal/Langnickel Brushes x ͻͷͲͲͷ Ǧ ͳͲ ͳʹ x ʹͷͻͷ Ǧ ͓ͳ x x ͻ͵Ͳ Ȃ Υdz x ʹʹͷͲ Ȃ Ͷ x ͳͷͲ Ȃ ͳʹ

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Decoupaging the Background: Ǧ ǡ Ǥ

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Ǥ Ǥ Background Painting:

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Background Stenciling and Shading: Ǥ ǡ Ǥ ȋ ͲͶ͸Ȍǡ Ǥ Ǥ Ǥ Witch Face, Neck and Hand: Ǥ Ǥ ǡ Ǥ Ǥ Ǥ Ǥ Ǥ Ǥ

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Face Paint: ǡ Ǥ

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Eyes: Ǥ Ǥ Ǥ ǡ Ǥ Ǥ

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Ǥ Hat:

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Ǥ Dz dz Ǥ Roses and Leaves:

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Ǥ Ǥ Ǥ ǡ ǡ Ǥ Ǥ Ǥ Hair: Ǥ Υdz ǡ Ǥ Ǥ

ǡ ǡ Ǥ ǡ ǡ ǡ ǡ ǡ Ǥ Earrings:

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Ǥ Ǥ Ǥ Wine Bottle:

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Fingernails: Ǥ

Ǥ Ǥ Additional Background Stenciling:

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Ragged Edging: Ǥ Dry Brushed Background Highlights:

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Shingle Lettering: Ǥ Ǥ Ǥ ǡ ǡ Ǥ Bubbles on Shingle:

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Finishing Touches: ʹǦ͵ Ǥ Ǥ ȋ ȌǤ Ǩ

̹2020 Sandy LeFlore, Just Fine Designs Thank you for taking the time to ready my copyright statement. The design purchased in this packet is intended for Decorating Painting Purposes only. You may change the shape, size or surface of this design and hand paint it for personal use or sale at your craft show, craft mall, on your website, in your Etsy or eBay store or any craft-related sales market. This design and the packet contents may not be mechanically or electronically mass produced. You may not scan or copy the design photos provided in these instructions/packet.

Digital tole or graphic reproductions is prohibited. You may photography YOUR hand painted version of this design for teaching use. No copies can be made of these written instructions or line drawing to sell or give away, even for classes. TEACHERS, CHAPTERS AND SHOP OWNERS: You may purchase multiples of this packet, at a discount, and provide them to your students as part of their class fee. Whether selling your hand painted version of this design or posting your finished project online to share with other painters or teaching it in a class, please give Just Fine Designs/Sandy LeFlore credit (i.e. “Designed by Sandy LeFlore” or “Based on a design by Sandy LeFlore”. Any other use of this design and/or packet contents will require permission from Sandy LeFlore.

Original Design by Kathy Jakopovich

This Scaredy Ghost is painted on an unfinished, 12” pallet wood circle by Darice. I bought mine directly from Darice. You could paint this on just about anything though! How about a tote bag for your little trick-or-treater, on a window or on a canvas? This circle pallet would be super cute in the center of a black or purple wreath adorned with mini pumpkins, creepy spiders, witchy hats, bats, lights and of course, a big bow to tie it all together.

Surface: Unfinished Pallet Wood Circle. UPC is: 8 89092 58460 1 from www.darice.com You will need a wholesale account to purchase these from here. They come in increments of 6.

Project Supplies: Usual Acrylic Tools Stylus Graphite Transfer Paper Paper Plates or Wax Paper Tack Cloth White Pencil Eraser Fine Grit Sanding Sponge Cotton Swabs (I lick them to fix mistakes quickly) (Optional – Fine Glitter of choice) Optional Supplies for hand cutting a stencil: Plastic Sheet 11” x 10” (blank stencil) Exact-o Knife or Sharp Scissors Self-healing Mat Black Sharpie Marker (if compatible with the plastic you are using) 10” Circle Template (to trace the moon) I used a paper plate.

Rubbing Alcohol (if compatible with the plastic you are using) Tip: Regarding the optional supplies listed, I cut the ghost head from a piece of blank stencil material. I used this shape to mask out the head and face when adding more color to the moon.

To make this, outline the head shape onto the plastic with the Sharpie marker. Carefully cut out using either scissors or an Exact-o knife on a self-healing mat. To remove any sharpie marks, you may need to use some rubbing alcohol. I used a 10” paper plate to trace circle of the moon behind the head.

Paints: Deco Art Americana Titanium White Frosted Plum Plum Spruce Pansy Lavender Black Plum Zinc Lamp Black Orange Twist Jack-O-Lantern Orange Oxblood

Mediums: DecoArt Matte Sealer/Finisher Spray Media Fluid Acrylic Primary Yellow

Brushes: Angles: sizes ¼”, ½” and ¾”; Loew Cornell Series 7400 Filbert: ½”; My Artscape Short Handle Ultra-Round: #’s 2 and 4; Loew Cornell Series 7020 Script Liner: #10/0; Loew Cornell Series 7050 Mid-Liner: #1 JS Mid Liner Loew Cornell Series (Jackie Shaw) Stencil Brushes: #8 and #12 DecoArt Americana Accessories Round Scrubber: #3 Loew Cornell Series 228 Mop Brush: ½” (Maxine Thomas) Preparation: Sand the surface of the pallet board with fine grit sandpaper. Wipe all dust away with tack cloth. Seal surface front and back with Deco Art Spray Sealer/ Finisher. I seal both sides to avoid any type of warping of the surface. Since this is kind of rough wood, I sanded and sealed the front twice. Transfer the ghost head shape and the moon. Do not transfer the face, spider or the branches yet.

Base coating: Base the ghost head in Titanium White using the filbert brush. Let dry. Base the moon with Primary Yellow + Titanium White ratio 2:1. The night sky is based in Pansy Lavender. After these are dry, transfer the face only.

Floating Color: To float shade or highlight, prewet the area with a brush and clean water. Load the angle brush with color only on the toe and blend on palette. Float color in the area; immediately use the mop brush to gently tap, straight up and down, the wet edge of the float to soften color.

When completely dry, repeat if necessary.

Ghost Head: Using the filbert brush, shade the head first, with a slip slap of Frosted Plum, then slip slap over previous, for the darkest shade with Plum Spruce. Do not worry if the slip slap method doesn’t look perfect. When dry, using the #12 stencil brush, burnish Titanium White over the top to blend out the color differences. Outline in features in Frosted Plum with the #1 JS Liner. With the same liner, paint Inky Titanium White to highlight outside of the head as shown on pattern as x followed by a line.

Note 1: You may choose to go over the highlights again later.

Note 2: The yellow moon glow in the face is painted later.

Eye Whites: Base the Eye Whites in Titanium White using the #4 round, then using the ½” angle, shade (float) down both sides of both eye whites in Zinc. When dry, float bit of Titanium White over the Zinc with the ¼”angle brush. Lastly, outline the eye whites in Frosted Plum with the 10/0 liner.

Irises: Base the Irises of the eyes in Orange Twist with the #4 round, then shade (float) with the ¼” angle in Oxblood around the outer edges. I used a Q-tip to rub out some of the floated Oxblood in the upper left side of the pupils. Highlight (float) Titanium White at the top left of the pupil line. Use the 10/0 liner with inky Oxblood to paint the iris lines from the outside of the iris toward the pupil and to outline the Iris.

Pupils: Base the Pupils in Zinc using the #4 round. Shade the entire outer perimeter with the ½” angle brush in Lamp Black. Paint the highlights in inky Titanium White with a round brush.

Let dry, then use the #3 scrubber to dry brush Titanium White over the top of the highlight going over the edges of the hard circle highlight to soften.

Lip and Mouth: Basecoat the lip in Orange Twist with the #2 round; using the dirty brush, pick up Titanium White and paint in a touch of highlight. Shade the lip at the bottom left by painting a solid line of Oxblood. Lastly, give the lip a faint inky line of highlight using Titanium White with a liner.

Paint the inside of the mouth with inky Black Plum using the #2 round, let dry, then shade (float) ¼” angle brush in Lamp Black down the left side inside the mouth. Use Titanium White on the right side of the inside of mouth to highlight (float) with the ¼”angle brush. Outline the bottom of the entire mouth and lip in inky Black Plum using the 10/0 liner brush.

Paint in a shadow under the lip with inky Frosted Plum using the #2 round.

Eyebrows, Nose and Eye line: Paint these lines in Frosted Plum with the #1 JS Liner. Shade (float) the lines under the eyebrow lines, on top of the nose line and around the outside of eyes with Frosted Plum using the angle brushes. Highlight (float) opposite sides of the lines with Titanium White using the same brushes.

Cheeks and Moon Glow: First using very faint inky line of Frosted Plum continue the line from the bottom eye line around to form the “puff” in the cheeks into an almost stretched out uppercase C. Load the #12 stencil brush with Primary Yellow Media. Be sure to rub this out on paper towel as much as possible… the media paints have a TON of pigment in them! Always test out the color first before burnishing the color on. In this case I used a piece of white paper to make sure I had enough of the pigment out. I burnished the cheeks and the glow on the ghost head while holding my breath! - I went back and painted my inky Titanium White lines with the #1 JS liner under the nose line, under the cheek lines, above the eyebrows and here and there on the ghost head. With the same dirty stencil brush, pick up JOL Orange and rub that out very well on dry paper towel to

burnish some additional color in the cheeks. No worries, if you don’t like how it looks, you can always go back over with a clean stencil brush loaded with Titanium White to burnish over and/or soften.

Spider: Transfer the spider. Base the little furry thing in Zinc with the #4 round, then shade (float) with Lamp Black using the ¼” angle brush to the inside perimeter of the body. Paint highlights with a float of Titanium White using the same brush along the left side of him.

Paint his nasty little legs (I imagine they are crunchy) in Lamp Black with the 10/0 liner. With the same brush, pick up Titanium White to paint some additional fur around for highlights. Use the #2 round to paint the eye whites in Titanium White, then use the 10/0 liner to paint the pupils in Lamp Black.

Highlight the pupils with a tiny shine line with Titanium White. Same brush, paint his smile in Orange Twist. Shadow under the spider body is painted with inky Frosted Plum with the #4 round, using the same brush, deeper shade the shadow at the bottom of the body with Black Plum.

Moon: Using the template that you cut to mask the ghost head, mask the head to add detail to the moon. Previously, based in with Primary Yellow + Titanium White, start out by randomly dry brushing with the #12 stencil brush and Orange Twist. Then using dirty brush, pick up Titanium White and add that to the moon by dry brushing, continue dry brushing until you are pleased with how it looks. I also added a bit more Primary Yellow and some JOL Orange.

Burnish directly over the hard line of the moon into the Pansy Lavender sky with Orange Twist to create the glow around the outside of the moon.

Branches: Transfer the branches. Paint the branches in solid Lamp Black with the #4 round brush.

Finishing: Use the ¾” angle to float Lamp Black around the entire outer perimeter of the pallet.

Spray with matte sealer/ finisher.

This line drawing has been reduced to 4.25” in diameter to fit on Pallet Ornie # 31-L599 https://www.cdwood.com/

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Welcome Witch Original Design by Karen Wisner Dyar kdolls.designs@gmail.com I love this country primitive witch and her fall friends! This Halloween family portrait can be painted on just about any surface you have in your stash!

Surface: 11" Tombstone Plaque #31-L345 www.cdwood.com Supplies: Black Micron Pen 01, Stylus, Light & Dark Transfer Paper, Tracing Paper, Cotton Swabs Sea Sponge Jute or ribbon for hanger Tim Holtz Burlap Stencil, #Ths007, https://www.cdwood.com/products/burlap-layering-stencil?_pos=1&_sid=518678cb4&_ss=r Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Antique Maroon Avocado Burnt Sienna Dark Chocolate Dioxazine Purple Foliage Green Graphite Honey Brown Lamp Black

Light Buttermilk Milk Chocolate Moon Yellow Persimmon Saffron Yellow Sand Slate Grey Snow White Wisteria

Mediums: Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte DAS13 DecoArt Acrylic Gesso TXFP06 Brushes: Round sizes 1, 3 & 5 Flat Wash 3/4" Shaders 14 & 20 Script Liners (long bristles) 10/0 & 5/0 Mop 1/2" Fabric Round 1/4" 1/4" Stencil Old 1 Round brush for stippling star Helpful Tip: Use the round brushes to basecoat.

The 5/0 script liner to paint vines and details; the 10/0 to paint fine details.

The 3/4" flat wash to float background areas and wide shades and highlights.

The shaders to float color, shade and highlight (When floating color, load the brush with a wider amount of paint then done for shading or highlighting.).

The fabric round to drybrush inner highlights. The mop to blend floated areas.

Use the Q-Tip as a mini mop. Use the stencil brush to apply stencils.

Preparation 1. Cover the entire plaque, front and sides, to be painted with a coat of Gesso, using a brush or sponge. Let dry then repeat with another layer of Gesso, let dry. Apply 2 coats of Light Buttermilk, over the Gesso areas; allow paint to dry between each layer.

2. Trace patterns onto tracing paper using the Black Micron Pen. 3. Transfer the basic design lines onto the plaque, using the small end of a stylus and transfer paper. Transfer the detail lines as needed.

Refer to the pattern, for shading (///) and highlights (...), as you paint.

Painting Instructions Background: Float background area using Wisteria, let dry then repeat with another layer. Paint or stencil swirls using Light Buttermilk, let dry. Shade the darkest areas around the design using Dioxazine Purple.

Pumpkins: Basecoat all pumpkins and pumpkin areas using Saffron Yellow, let dry then paint another layer, let dry. Apply 2 coats of Persimmon over the Saffron Yellow, let dry between coats. Shade pumpkin areas using Burnt Sienna, let dry. Deepen the darkest shaded areas using a small amount of Antique Maroon, let dry. Drybrush Moon Yellow highlights and float edge highlights.

Witch: Hat & Cloak: Float color onto the hat and cloak using Graphite, let dry then repeat with another layer, let dry.

Shade using Lamp Black, let dry. Apply the burlap stencil using Lamp Black, let dry, paint cracks in the hat. Float and drybrush highlights using Slate Grey, let dry. Apply lightest highlights using Light Buttermilk.

Twig Arms: Basecoat twig hands and arms using Sand, let dry. Paint line details using Milk Chocolate, let d dry, then shade. Deepen shading using Dark Chocolate. (Leaves and vines will be added at the end of the instructions.)

Witch Face: Paint nose using Moon Yellow, let dry. Shade using Milk Chocolate, let dry. Highlight using Snow White, let dry. Paint Lamp Black eyes, let dry. Highlight lower half of the eyes by floating Slate Grey, let dry. Paint Lamp Black nose stitches and n eyebrows, dot stitch ends, let dry. Paint tiny Snow White strokes on the eyes.

Welcome Hangtag: Basecoat hangtag using Sand, let dry then repeat, let dry. Paint detail lines using Honey Brown, let dry then shade, let dry. Deepen shading using Milk Chocolate, let dry. Paint hole in tag using Dark Chocolate and apply the deepest shades around the folded corner, let dry. Paint Lamp Black "Welcome" on the hangtag.

Basecoat and Color Floats

Shade and Details

Highlights, Details and Finish

Moon: Basecoat moon using Moon Yellow, let dry then repeat, let dry. Shade using Burnt Sienna, let dry. Deepen shades around the pumpkin person using Milk Chocolate, let dry. Drybrush highlights using Light Buttermilk, let dry. Paint Snow White starburst and dot center.

Rusty Star: Float basecoat for star using Burnt Sienna, let dry then repeat, let dry. Shade using Graphite, let dry, then stipple using an old #1 round brush to make "rusty" look. Make sure some of the Burnt Sienna shows as well. Highlight using Moon Yellow.

Pumpkin Pal: Paint pumpkin areas the same as done for the witch. Paint Dark Chocolate twig arms. Paint Graphite coal buttons. Paint nose using Moon Yellow, let dry. Paint lines on the stem using Milk Chocolate, let dry. Shade the stem and nose using Milk Chocolate. Paint Lamp Black eyes, eyebrows and stitches on nose; dot stitches, let dry. Make tiny dots on eyes using Snow White.

Stick Cat: Basecoat stick using Sand, let dry. Float cat's head using Graphite, let dry. Float tie below cat's head using Foliage Green, let dry. Shade cat head using Lamp Black, let dry. Paint wood details in stick using Milk Chocolate, let dry then shade the stick. Paint Avocado lines on the tie, let dry then dot using Persimmon, let dry. Paint nose using Moon Yellow, let dry. Paint eyes using Sand, let dry. Shade tie using Avocado, let dry. Shade nose using Burnt Sienna and eyes using Milk Chocolate, let dry. Deepen shading on the stick using Dark Chocolate. Highlight tie and nose using Snow White. Paint Slate Grey whiskers. Paint stitches, threads and make dots on the eyes and nose using Lamp Black. Paint tiny Snow-White strokes on the button eyes.

Crow on Pumpkin: Follow instructions for "pumpkins" to paint. Paint stem using Sand, let dry. Paint large leaves using Foliage Green, let dry. Float crow color using Graphite, let dry. Paint stem details using Milk Chocolate, let dry then shade, let dry. Shade leaves using Avocado, let dry. Shade crow using Lamp Black, let dry. Highlight leaves using Moon Yellow. Float part of leaves using a small amount of Burnt Sienna, let dry. Highlight crow using Slate Grey, let dry. Paint Avocado leaf lines and let dry. Deepen shading on the stem using Dark Chocolate. Paint stitches on crow using Lamp Black.

Vines, Small Leaves & Berries: Apply the dark vines using Dark Chocolate and the light vines using Honey Brown. Paint the Avocado leaves, let dry then highlight using Foliage Green. Dot the light berries using Moon Yellow and the dark berries using Burnt Sienna, using the large and small stylus ends. Let all paint dry.

Finish: 1. Spray the entire painted surfaces using Matte Spray Varnish, let dry then repeat.

2. Cut a ribbon or jute and make a hanger for the plaque.

Any questions contact me: Karen Wisner/Dyar- kdolls.designs@gmail.com or facebook "Karen Wisner"

This Line Drawing is at 100%

This Line Drawing is at 100%

This Line Drawing is approx. 86% of original – Dimensions are 9” tall by 6” wide