Example Book HotspOTs Israel

HotspOTs

Israel

A Travel Guide with a Difference

Hip, hot, and trendy

Joanne Nihom / Esther Voet

HotspOTs Israel Copyright Š 2015 Pieters Media Authors: Joanne Nihom and Esther Voet Published and printed by Pieters Media BV, Groede, The Netherlands 1st Edition, May 2015 Travel guide ISBN 9789060851036 NUR 510 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. This book contains material protected under International and Federal Copyright Laws and Treaties. Any unauthorized reprint or use of this material is prohibited. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system without express written permission from the author / publisher.

A

big thank you to Floor Pieters, our publisher, who gave us the opportunity to write HotspOTs Israel and show Israel in a different way.

A big thank you also to: Paul Bremmer Noam Chen Ika Cohen Yuval Doron Anat Friedman Maya Hadash Frida Hansum Gil Hovav Efrat Kedem-Silbert Deena Levenstein And to all the HotspOTs‌ You have all been a great help.

Joanne Nihom & Esther Voet

Malka Nihom David Pieters Galit Reismann Margalit Rodgers Tsvika Rubin Ariane Rubin-Boeken Chaim Santcroos Yuval Shchory Michael Shiloah

Welcome to HotspOTs Israel

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hen thinking of Israel, most people have a political or biblical image. Let us enlighten you: that image is not complete. Worldfamous trend watcher Lidewij Edelkoort has exhibited in the Design Museum Holon. DJ Armin van Buuren performs regularly at parties in the Negev Desert. Israeli women have definitively substituted their standard garb of T-shirt, denim shorts, and sandals that they wore until the 1980s, for high heels and designer sunglasses. Designers are opening shop after shop for a true shop-till-you-drop experience. Awardwinning restaurants keep popping up as well as boutique hotels, there are reputable galleries all over the country, and the beach bars along the sunny coasts do not fall short of the hottest European ones! There are eco-friendly villages with a focus on reflection, peace, and quiet, and numerous organic, vegetarian restaurants; the country is among the top 5 most vegetarian-friendly countries.

Israel buzzes!

And that is the Israel we want to show you. Because we think that it is only with this Israel that your image of the country can be complete.

Israel has become an ultimate holiday destination, where you can still ski until April on Mt. Hermon, float in the Dead Sea or get treatments throughout the year, or swim in the azure blue water of the Red Sea, spangled with corals and tropical fish.

You can hike in a constantly changing landscape, and all this without having to drive hundreds of kilometers.

The hills of northern Galilee are covered with forests and woodland, the Jezreel Valley offers stunning views, and then there is the Negev Desert which will enchant you. In addition, there are, if you feel inclined, ancient archaeological sites and unique geological phenomena. But everywhere you go, you will find original places to stay or unexpected eateries for a fantastic meal. That is the Israel we have tried to capture in this book.

Dive into Tel Aviv’s nightlife, see the Bauhaus architecture in the daytime, or take a wine tour in the Golan Heights. Soar in a hot air balloon over the desert, or miss a couple of hours of sleep to gaze at the magical star-studded skies.

With this travel guide you will meet the Israel of the 21st century.

Prepare to be surprised!

Joanne Nihom & Esther Voet

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67 65 Kibbutz Matan

64 68 Ramat Hasharon 66 8 km

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Š Chaim Santcroos

Tel Aviv

Shopping and Partying

© Malka Nihom

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n 1910, Tel Aviv, which in Hebrew means Hill of Spring, was nothing more than a sandy dune. Now it is a vibrant metropolis, a city that never sleeps, and which in many respects surpasses many European cities. The city is located about 60 kilometers from the religious center of the world, Jerusalem, but reflects a completely different atmosphere.

This is the place for anybody seeking wonderful beaches, boutique hotels, ‘funtastic’ bars, and places to meet. It is a Mecca for design freaks and fashionistas. And it is an animal loving city; with its friendly urban policy, and wide range of related services, the city is unique in its approach toward animals. In the past few years a number of Tel Aviv’s older neighborhoods have been transformed from rundown places to places well-worth visiting, for example Neve Tzedek. These locations are described separately. Israel HotspOTs immersed itself in the world known as Tel Aviv. These are our recommendations!

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Tel Aviv - Center Sleeping, Eating, and Drinking 26

Š Ketem Or

17. Kibbutz Style

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hef Omer Miller of Hadar HaOchel (The Dining Hall) has taken the food of his childhood home and elevated it to a gourmet standard. The seating is at long tables, providing a communal eating experience like in a kibbutz dining room, with the tables covered with simple paper tablecloths. Don’t let the apparent simplicity confuse you - this place is a true culinary gem.

Hadar HaOchel, 23 Shaul Hamelech Street, Tel Aviv Tel: 03-6966188

Tel Aviv - Center

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Art, Music, and Shopping

24. Past, Present, Future

his museum, also known as the Museum of the Diaspora or the Museum of the Jewish People, is more than just a museum. It is an institution where four thousand years of Jewish history are presented, but which also focuses on the future. Everything revolves around Jewish identity, and answers the question of what that identity looks like.

Besides the permanent exhibition there are ongoing temporary exhibits.

It provides a beautiful insight into Jewish life outside Israel.

Beit Hatfutsot, Tel Aviv University Campus, Klausner Street, Ramat Aviv, Tel: 03-7457808, www.bh.org.il

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Tel Aviv - Jaffa Miscellaneous 74

59. Relax

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eel like a complete body and mind detox during your stay?

Derech Haguf is located in a beautiful old building overlooking Old Jaffa and the Mediterranean. Ayurvedic massage – a gentle energetic massage with essential oils – is the specialty of this wellness center.

Derech Haguf, 3 Menucha Street, Jaffa Tel: 03-5084568, www.bodycourse.com

Tel Aviv - Northern Surroundings

64. Crossing Borders

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Art, Music, and Shopping

Š Igal Phredo

he Herzliya Museum of Contemporary Art is dedicated to Israeli and international contemporary art with the aim of crossing borders, communicating, and trying to make a difference.

The Herzliya Museum of Contemporary Art, 4 Habanim Street, Herzliya, Tel: 09-9500762, www.herzliyamuseum.co.il

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Tel Aviv - Northern Surroundings Fashion and Jewelry 80

© Liat Kires

65. Colorful

“E

very piece is influenced by yesterday’s shade of the skies, by the laundry put out to dry or by my husband’s promise for tomorrow... (he promised me daisies!)”, says jewelry designer Liat Kires.

“Each piece of jewelry I create is one of a kind, unique, like in nature.

Like us.”

Atliart, Kibbutz Matan Tel: 054-2462400, www.facebook.com/AtliartByLiat

Tel Aviv - Northern Surroundings

66. Come and Sea… (us)

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Fashion and Jewelry

© Eran Goldschmidt

his special shop is all about passion for the sea. Owners Tami and Ronit ‘Yam’ (Sea) as they are known, breathe, design, create, and sell fashion, jewelry, and home styling items – all with a touch of the ‘sea’.

Amen Workshop, 16 Ha’tlamim Street, Ramat Hasharon Tel: 054-2442015, www.yam-amen.com

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Tel Aviv - Southern Surroundings Tours and Workshops 90

© Oliver Fitoussi

74. Tel Aviv’s Secret Language

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xplore Tel Aviv by deciphering the ‘writing on the walls’ – street signs, graffiti, and bumper stickers filled with Hebrew gems and insights into contemporary Israeli culture. Word geeks, street-art buffs, and anyone interested in people, cultures, and languages is invited.

The tour is in English, but on the way you’ll learn some Hebrew.

“It’s such an exciting tour since the walls change by the day. I want many people to be exposed to the largest concentration of street art in Israel” explains StreetWise owner Guy Sharett. “It’s the best way to learn the country”.

StreetWise Hebrew Tel: 054-6623314, www.streetwisehebrew.com

Tel Aviv - Southern Surroundings

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Tours and Workshops

77. Tel Aviv by Bike

o enjoy Tel Aviv in and outdoors, see places you would never see otherwise, enjoy the sun and the Tel Aviv breezes, meet the locals and the hip, hot, and trendy people: Take an organized bike trip! Special tours for families with kids: Visiting green spaces, riding through HaYarkon Park, visiting a petting zoo, making a stop at public open-air art exhibits, and ending up at a beautiful stretch of Mediterranean beach where you can enjoy a dip in the sea and a snack.

Gordon Active Tel: 03-7659000, www.gordonactive.com

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Jerusalem - City Center and Surroundings Art, Music, and Shopping 110

© Amiad Abrahams

15. High-Quality Art

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he Jerusalem Artists’ House is set in a historic building, where Boris Schatz founded the prestigious Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design in 1906. A multitude of Israeli and international artists show their work here.

The Jerusalem Artists’ House, 12 Shmuel Hanagid Street, Jerusalem Tel: 02-6253653, www.art.org.il

Jerusalem - Mahane Yehuda Market and Surroundings

21. Working Class Cuisine

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Sleeping, Eating, and Drinking

© Maya Hadash

f you’re into fine dining, traditional white tabletops, and porcelain dishes, do not go anywhere near Rahmo, which is on one of the streets leading to Mahane Yehuda Market. Rahmo is a working-class restaurant, with dishes such as meatloaf in pita bread, hummus, and a variety of freshly made side dishes. It is a fine example of Israeli ‘fast food’ – nothing is fast in the preparation, some of the dishes have spent hours on the stove preparing themselves for you to consume, but the consumption is fast, sometimes seated at a table with other people taking their lunch break from selling fruit or vegetables in the market.

Rahmo Restaurant, 5 Ha’Eshkol Street, Jerusalem Tel: 053-9438447

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Jerusalem and Surroundings Miscellaneous 138

38. Holy Horses

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hen you visit Jerusalem it’s usually about the city, the culture, the religion… What about going horseback riding on the outskirts of Jerusalem and seeing the city from a different angle? Enjoy the hills, the green… the secrets... The Harei Yehuda Riding Stable is located in pastoral Tzur Hadassah, about 15 minutes by car from Jerusalem’s Gilo neighborhood, or from Beit Shemesh. The stables are situated at the edge of the Sansan Nature Reserve and close to dozens of attractive hiking and riding trails, including the Soreq stalactite caves, Begin Park, Nahal Katlav, Ein Kobi, and Ein Matta. The stable comprises a riding school and club, and dog kennels. It is built on a steep slope on three levels, which perfectly preserve the area’s pastoral views.

The Harei Yehuda Riding Stable Tel: 02-5791355, www.hyr.co.il

Jerausalem and Surroundings

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Tours and Workshops

43. Tour de Jerusalem

hether you’ve been to Jerusalem a million times or if you’ve never been there before, a tour by bike will show you a Jerusalem that you never even imagined. It is a true adventure with hidden gems, secret lanes, quiet alleys, residential neighborhoods, leafy gardens, and forgotten pathways. English- and Hebrew-speaking guides, tours for the whole family as well.

Bike Jerusalem, Discover. Israel. Active.

Tel: 052-3201273, www.bikejerusalem.com

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The North - Western Galilee Sleeping, Eating, and Drinking

Š Anatoly Michaello

9. Two for One

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elicious wine and port tasting in cozy Johnny Stern’s in Kibbutz Tuval. Just the drive to the kibbutz is more than worth it.

The grapes are grown in the Golan Heights and Galilee.

Stern Winery, Kibbutz Tuval, Western Galilee (by appointment) Tel: 054-3034361, www.stern-winery.co.il

The North - Western Galilee

22. Soft Skin

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Miscellaneous

Š Anatoly Michaello

n the Druze village of Beit Jann, overlooking Mt. Meron, Jamal Hamoud produces a line of natural cosmetics based on pure, cold-pressed olive oil from the Galilee, where he combines old family knowledge with modern formulas.

Aya Natural, Beit Jann (by appointment) Tel: 04-9805886, www.ayanatural.com

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The North - Klil Sleeping, Eating, and Drinking 178

31. Paradise

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place to enjoy luxury with a personal touch against a breathtaking background of the evergreen hills of the Western Galilee while smelling and seeing the Mediterranean Sea.

Boutique Hotel Rika, Klil Tel: 050-8555527, www.rikaclil.com

The North - Akko

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Sleeping, Eating, and Drinking

38. Legendary Hummus

ocated in the Akko market is the well-known, very relaxed Saeed Hummus restaurant. Usually packed from very early in the morning (around 5 am) till lunchtime. The dishes: delicious hummus and mesabacha (warm chickpeas with tahini). No reservations; usually there’s a walk-in line, and you’ll be seated with strangers at the same table.

Saeed Hummus, Akko Market Tel: 04-9913945

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The North - The Golan Heights Sleeping, Eating, and Drinking 220

71. Just The Two Of You‌

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romantic experience in a spaciously designed suite. Relax in the spa with a heated swimming pool, sauna, and Jacuzzi. Enjoy your breakfast by the pool overlooking the magical view of the Sea of Galilee.

The Cnaan Village Boutique Spa & Villa, 13 Had Nes, Golan Heights Tel: 04-6822128, www.cnaan-village.co.il

The North - The Golan Heights Miscellaneous

76. Floating

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eace Vista is situated in serene surroundings overlooking the Sea of Galilee. ‘A Breeze Over the Water’ is an experience that you should not miss. Two and a half hours of floating in warm saline baths; chilling out with relaxing music in a special atmosphere. It is not a must to stay overnight, but highly recommended: beautiful rooms with amazing views!

Peace Vista, Mitzpe Hashalom, Kibbutz Kfar Haruv, Golan Heights Tel: 04-6761767, 054-5676884, www.mitzpe-hashalom.co.il

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The South - North and Western Negev and Be’er Sheva Miscellaneous

© Joat

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13. Cave Hospitality

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isit Drejat, an authentic Arab desert village at the foot of Mt. Amasa on the edge of the Arad Valley. Theirs is a captivating story of human perseverance. It is a tale of the lives of a wonderful people, who have preserved their heritage and ancient civilization to this day.

Fellaheen (Arab farmers) from the south of Mt. Hebron established the village of Drejat in the mid-19th century. They descended to the Negev, and settled on the edge of the Arad Valley. With them they brought the culture of cave dwellers that had been common in the south of Mt. Hebron from the days of Biblical patriarchs. The first settlers made their home in ancient cave dwellings, carved deep into the solid rock. Spend some time in the caves in which the families lived until quite recently.

Experience amazing homemade local cuisine, which includes homemade bread, labneh, and the traditional ‘maqluba’, all prepared with the traditional wild spices. Hospitality and storytelling are included.

Jaber Abu Hamad, Drejat (on Highway 31, ten minutes west of Arad) Tel: 054-7969576, www.drejat.co.il

The South - South Negev and The Arava

30. Divine Location

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Sleeping, Eating, and Drinking

© Gidi Boaz

n the middle of nowhere, surrounded by luxury? It’s possible – in Eretz Arava. Stay in a divine place with a private pool. All you hear is silence, and all you see is sand, mountains, the sun, and the moon.

Leave computers and mobile phones at home, and after a couple of days you won’t want to leave.

Eretz Arava, Tzuqim (Higway 90, southbound) 052-6060954, www.eretzarava.com

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13 Must-See Places

5. Soreq Cave

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O

n the way from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv, in the beautiful Judean Mountains, lies Beit Shemesh. If you decide not to drive, try taking the train from Jerusalem. The route takes you along the ancient Roman road, which in the spring has a rippling brook flowing through the valley.

Phenomenal! Once in Beit Shemesh, follow the signposts to Avshalom Nature Reserve, which is about eight kilometers outside the city. There is an amazing cave in this reserve, the Soreq Cave (also called Avshalom Cave). It was discovered accidentally in 1968 during excavation work that exposed a cave with beautiful stalactites and stalagmites, some of which are at least 300,000 years old. Because the cave was completely sealed from the outside world, no human or animal had ever seen it until 1968, and it is still virtually untouched. The extraordinary stalactites twist and turn, as if defying gravity.

Soreq Cave, 78 Yirmiyahu Street, Jerusalem Tel: 02-5006261, www.showcaves.com/english/il/showcaves/Sorek.html

13 Must-See Places © Kavram

12. Ein Avdat

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in Avdat is a place to look up and say ‘wow’. White cliffs occasionally flecked by dark flint rise above Zin Valley, while three springs feed several small rock pools year round. A rare water source in the desert, Ein Avdat’s springs sustain a variety of plants and wildlife. Setting out from the lower parking lot, follow the marked trail south. While it is wise to watch your step, make sure to look up and ahead to take in the view of the canyon as it rises above you. The trail occasionally crosses the stream bed, which is dry most of the year, and passes beneath impressive cliffs.

Along the way you may spot ibexes, a species of wild goat that thrive on the vegetation of Ein Avdat, which is abundant relative to the Negev Desert highlands.

Ein Avdat National Park (south of Kibbutz Sde Boker)

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Š Chaim Santcroos

Seasonal HotspOTs Only in certain seasons, but not to be missed!

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hotographer Noam Chen (1982) was born in the north of Israel and today lives in Tel Aviv. He specializes in HDR landscape photography and portraits. Noam’s work has been published in newspapers and magazines in Israel, the UK, Canada, and the US, including National Geographic. In 2009, Noam took part in group exhibitions in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, and two years later held his first solo exhibition ‘Photography in Another Dimension’.

Noam Chen Tel: 052-5999893, www.noamchen.com

304 2. Spring in the south

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Table of Contents Welcome to HotspOTs Israel Tel Aviv 1.

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A True Hidden Pearl A Market with a Sea Breeze All that Jazz History in Photographs Cool Handmade For Women Only Architectonic Jewelry Thai in Tel Aviv Culinary Melting Pot Good Night…

The Tel Aviv Experience Shabby Chic Not to be Missed Stylish Nostalgic World Restaurant Kibbutz Style Coffee Like at Home For the Real Vegan Bauhaus Design Mecca Pap(i)er Paradise Pioneering Art Past, Present, Future Innovative Feeling Feminine Fashion and Art Old and New Fire Going Oriental Dancing Bakery Newsweek Good Company Figurative Art Femininity Pieces of Art A Real Treat

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Neve Tzedek

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Tapas, Tapas, Tapas Vegetarian and Vegan Delights A New Experience Sleeping in Flowers Not to Be Missed Food and Vibe Home Dining Till Sold Out Eccellente Ceramics and Vintage Creative A Museum in an Inn Israeli with an Italian Twist From Buttons to Gold Recycled Fashion It’s All About A Sketch Shining Stars A Real Shoe Fashionista Female Star Unique Chances A Special Touch Relax Boker Tov A Little Bit of France…

A Mediterranean Touch Old Wine is Good Wine Crossing Borders Colorful Come and Sea… (us) Arabian Nights Unique Floating in Wine Culinary Experiment Spiritual Jewelry Design in Holon Behind The Scenes Tel Aviv’s Secret Language For Architecture Lovers A Night on the Town Tel Aviv by Bike A Market Tour

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Jerusalem 1.

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Trendy 98 Za’atar and Jerusalem Sage 99 Buon Apetito 100 Colonial Vibe 101 Balance 102 A Belgian Secret 103 Hummus with an Attitude 104 Gatsby 105 Tea for Two 106 Souperior 107 A Few Intellectual Hours 108 Puzzled By …

109 High-Quality Art 110 Perfection 111 Antique Hunting 112 Only Yesterday 113 Young and Creative 114 Casual Atmosphere 118 For Vegetarian Lovers 119 Mom’s Cooking 120 Working Class Cuisine 121 Culinary Tour 122 Idyll Near the Old City 123 Networking 124 Home-Cooked Food Just Like… 125 Classy 126 Fàilte 127 Islamic Art 128 If Stones Could Talk 129 Sophisticated Fashion 130 A ‘Whistling’ Place 131 For Ever 132 Heritage 133 True Love 134 Arab-Jewish 135 A Kitchen In The Hills 136 Ethiopian Craftsmanship 137 Holy Horses 138 Shabbat Shalom 139 Treasure Hunt 140 Theater Guide 141 Ecological Tours 142 Tour de Jerusalem 143 A Tour with Asnat 144

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Jewish-Arab Fusion A Must in Winter and Summer Spanish Style One-Day Show Silence Luxury A Place To Be Don’t Eat Beforehand Two for One A Special Winery Hummus and Shawarma Homemade Bread Besaha (‘To your health’) In Love with Cheese For the True Art Lover Two Cultures Cooperate Creation Through Passion Wood Creations Weaving for Peace Hip and Trendy Happy, Light, and Wonderful Soft Skin Partying in the North Art and Café Western Galilee Touring Klil Café Klil In the Middle of Nowhere Among the Olives There’s No Place Like Home Paradise Ceramics Natural Treatments Cooking in Klil Discover Klil Not for Snobs Historical Enjoyment Legendary Hummus Home Restaurant A Meaningful Gift Love Boat Ancient Tradition Old New A Musical Organic Winery Daydreaming Wine and Honey

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Arab Mansion Cultural Coexistence Arabic Crafts Headstrong Thanks to Mom Everybody’s Welcome Arab Haute Cuisine Druze Hospitality Artistic Breeding Ground Colorful Two Eyes are Not Enough Buen Appetito Dining at the Railroad View of Mt. Gilboa Kibbutz Life Hot Springs Extreme(ly) Exclusive Paradise Five Rooms with a View From Heart To Heart A Meal on the Water Oriental Atmosphere Too Much to Buy Herbs and Spices

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Just The Two Of You… L’Chaim Yippee ki-yay Own Made Ramot Ranch Floating Past and Present

By Bike Culinary Fun

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Dream Away in a Cave Exclusive Restaurants Feeling More Than Well…

Desert Drinks and Food A Bus Stop…

Art in the Desert Cultural Twins Bedouin Pottery Authentic Embroidery

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An Ancient Craft Singing Books Desert Daughter Cave Hospitality Du pain, Du Vin, Du ‘Gvina’ Des(s)ert Wine Take a Break – Go South…

For the Backpacker Unwinding All You Need is Bread Back to the Roots Jazz in the Desert The Hidden Village For a Desert Experience Llama Picnic Desert Trail Riding Adventures Natural Cosmetics Stargazing Freedom, Silence, and Desert Eco-Holiday Divine Location Relaxed Breakfast Healthy and Delicious Fata Morgana Partying and Meditation The Blossoming Desert End of the World Top Designers Float, or Take a Dip Partying among the Camels The Garden of Eden Bedouin Hospitality Desert Biking

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When All-round is a Specialty Go Wild L’Chaim Whatsup Get Off The Beaten Path Romantic Adventure Educate, Love, and Protect Hiking

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13 Must-See Places

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Seasonal HotspOTs

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Tel Dan The Galilee Hills Caesarea The Jerusalem Walls Soreq Cave Ein Gedi The Dead Sea Masada Yeruham Makhtesh Ramon Timna Park Ein Avdat The Hula Valley

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HotspOTs Israel The State of Israel was established in 1948. Joanne Nihom and Esther Voet compiled this special travel guide about the Israel of today. Israel, a unique country to spend your holiday: Hip, Hot, and Trendy!

Joanne Nihom lives in Israel and is a journalist specializing in Israeli human interest stories. She is also an “expert hotspot finder�.

Esther Voet is a journalist/publicist and former director of the Centre for Information and Documentation on Israel (CIDI). She was also editor-in-chief of the Dutch Jewish Weekly. She visits Israel regularly and is also known for her travel stories.

Language editing: Margalit Rodgers, Israel