ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
FALL 2019
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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE Special Publication of The Northern Light and All Point Bulletin PUBLISHERS Patrick Grubb and Louise Mugar EDITOR Oliver Lazenby PUBLICATION DESIGN Doug De Visser COPY EDITOR Aly Siemion
ADVERTISING DESIGN Ruth Lauman • Doug De Visser ADVERTISING SALES Adam Albert • Molly Ernst
CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE: Brad Andrew, Paul Bikis, Jason Griffith, Jason Hummel, Ben Shanks Kindlon, Alan Majchrowicz, Jason D. Martin, Audra Lee Mercille, Jefferson Morriss, Sneha Patel, Lisa Pulsifer, Hannah Singleton, Evan Skoczenski, Matthew Tangeman, Nadine Van Niekerk, Luca Williams EMAIL: info@mountbakerexperience.com WEB: www.mountbakerexperience.com FACEBOOK: facebook.com/mtbakerexperience TWITTER: twitter.com/MB_Experience INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/mtbakerexp If you can see Mt. Baker, you’re part of the experience. Mount Baker Experience is an outdoor recreation guide for and about the Mt. Baker region, distributed from Seattle to Vancouver, B.C. and published by Point Roberts Press, Inc. Locally owned, the company also publishes The Northern Light, All Point Bulletin, Pacific Coast Weddings, Waterside and area maps. Vol. XXXIII, No. 3. Printed in Canada. ©2019 POINT ROBERTS PRESS 225 Marine Drive, Blaine, WA 98230 TEL: 360/332-1777 NEXT ISSUE Winter 2019/20 • Out late Nov. 2019 Ad reservation deadline: Oct. 25 ON THE COVER Tara and Carl Simpson hiking through an autumn wonderland in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Jason Hummel photo.
MBE fall 2019
CONTRIBUTORS bradANDREW Brad Andrew is a Bellingham-based freelance action sports photographer. He spends his winters chasing the snow looking for the perfect spot to make the perfect image. He is a husband, father and a student of life.
paulBIKIS Paul Bikis is a photographer, filmmaker and entrepreneur focused on telling impactful stories about people and their relationship to the natural world. Paulbikis.com
jasonGRIFFITH Jason is a fisheries biologist who would rather be on a summit than down by the river. When he isn’t fiddling with his camera in the mountains, he lives in Mount Vernon with his wife and two boys.
jasonHUMMEL Jason is an outdoor photographer from Washington who has documented numerous first descents in the North Cascades. Alpinestateofmind.com.
Ben shanksKINDLON Ben is an Albany transplant based in Bellingham. When he’s not creating content for The Snowboarder’s Journal, he’s rag-dolling down Mt. Baker, feebly climbing boulders, or in his kitchen dancing to ‘90s R&B (by himself).
alanMAJCHROWICZ Alan is a photographer specializing in landscape and nature imagery. His intense passion for our natural world has led him on a lifelong journey to explore and photograph all aspects of our dynamic environment.
jasonMARTIN Jason is the executive director at the American Alpine Institute, a mountain guide and a widely published outdoor writer. He lives in Bellingham with his wife and two kids.
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audra leeMERCILLE Audra Lee Mercille is a Pacific Northwest-based freelance adventurer. She found photography as a way to display her love and gratitude for the mountains and landscapes that inspire her.
jeffersonMORRISS Jefferson Morriss is a Mount Vernon-based photographer. After relocating to Washington state in 2001 from the mean streets of Bismarck, North Dakota, he picked up his first camera and never looked back.
lisaPULSIFER Lisa Pulsifer is passionate about hiking and backpacking and just completed the Pacific Crest Trail in Washington. She lives in Vancouver, B.C..
hannahSINGLETON Hannah was born and raised on the East Coast but moved out west after college and never looked back. After years of living in the Rocky Mountain West, Hannah moved to Bellingham.
evanSKOCZENSKI Evan Skoczenski is a lifestyle and landscape photographer born in Bellingham. He spends almost all his time chasing light and the next adventure.
matthewTANGEMAN Matthew is a Bellingham-based adventure photographer with a passion for deep powder, alpine granite and not making it back to the trailhead until way after dark. matthewtangeman.myportfolio.com.
lucaWILLIAMS Luca is a certified rolfer in Glacier. She helps snowboarders, skiers, and other outdoor enthusiasts to get aligned and out of pain. Website: lucasrolfing.com blog: movingwithgravity.wordpress.com.
MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2019 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM
Publisher’s NOTE by Pat Grubb
W
e can start looking forward to increasingly shorter and cooler days with bug-free hikes and long, comfortable bike rides. This issue features a number of inspiring subjects and people, beginning with an environmental threat facing the headwaters of the Skagit River. Logging and mineral extraction plans in B.C. could jeopardize this premier recreational and salmon rearing area. Educate yourself and make your voice heard. Then read about two of the most inspired and inspiring women doing some incredible feats. Like Kacie Cleveland who inline skated across America busting the record along the way. Or Anna Soens who, despite being paralyzed in a climbing accident, refused to stop challenging herself and not only climbed Mt. Hood and Mt. Baker, sit-skied the latter from the summit down the Roman Wall all the way to the bottom of the snowpack. Think you’re pretty hot stuff? Into bro culture? Maybe you’re not so cool after all. Maybe you’re just a dick. If you see yourself in Jason Martin’s story, then you need to rethink things. Don’t worry – we’ll still love you even after you become a nice person. Like hiking but hate the way you feel after a long trek in the wilderness? Luca Williams has some suggestions on how to avoid the pain that comes from carrying packs. There’s plenty more inside these pages – we hope you’re inspired to get out of the house and into the natural environment. Have fun.
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LOGGING AND MINING SKAGIT HEADWATERS
B.C. RESOURCE EXTRACTION THREATENS PREMIER U.S. SALMON RIVER
28 16
14
28
WAKE ‘N BAKERY
Q&A WITH KACIE
FINDING FREEDOM
Beloved Glacier cafe has a new owner
Skating across America
Sit-skiing off Baker’s summit
10 NEWSROOM News from around the region
15 POSTCARD BC’s Brandywine Mountain
CULTURE 12 BRO Is the outdoors an inclusive place?
FLEXIBILITY 18 BACKPACKER Loosen your torso for a heavy load
42
JUANS IN A DINGHY 40 SAN Motor-powered exploration
RACE PREP 19 MENTAL Rehearse for your best performance
21 GALLERY Bringing the outdoors in
GUIDE 44 GEAR Fall season essentials
45
AND EAT 38 STAY Where to find dining and lodging
SHUKSAN
39 EVENTS What to do this fall
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Newsroom
Notes big and small from around the region Recreation Northwest expands to host awards night Recreation Northwest, a Bellingham nonprofit that advocates for recreation, will host its first ever Great Outdoors Awards dinner and fundraiser on Saturday, October 12, at Bellingham Technical College. The dinner and ceremony will celebrate the breadth of the outdoor recreation industry, recognizing companies and individuals across the industry and raise money for Recreation Northwest. “This is an evolution of our annual recognition event, Breakfast of Champions,” said Recreation Northwest executive director Todd Elsworth. “As we mature as an organization, we’re excited to recognize and celebrate our outdoor recreation champions.” Learn more at recreationnorthwest.org/events/goawards/
Superfeet acquires Belgian company
North Cascades National Park applying for dark skies status The National Park Service submitted a request for a dark sky study at North Cascades National Park. According to the latest issue of The Wild Cascades, the journal of the North Cascades Conservation Council, the request comes as part of Seattle City Light’s relicensing process with the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission for its Skagit River Hydro Project, located inside the national park. If accepted, the dark sky study would focus on the hydro project’s stray light, as it’s the only substantial source of light pollution in the park. In the future, it could also form the basis of a larger effort to reduce light pollution in the region and around the park.
Ferndale-based Superfeet acquired Belgian-based RSscan International in June. Superfeet, an employee-owned company long known for its original green insoles, has expanded into shoes, sandals and personalized 3d-printed insoles in recent years. RSscan is a European leader in developing technology for scanning feet and analyzing foot shape and form. The acquisition expands Superfeet’s research capabilities and manufacturing facilities, the company said in a press release. Superfeet previously worked with RSscan on its ME3D custom insoles technology, which it released in 2017.
The Summit at Snoqualmie developing a bike park The Summit at Snoqualmie ski resort, 50 miles east of Seattle at Snoqualmie Pass, is working on developing a lift-accessed mountain bike park. The Evergreen Mountain Bike Alliance assessed trail options in 2017 and will design and build trails on the mountain eventually. Summit at Snoqualmie, owned by Boyne Resorts, began planning with the U.S. Forest Service to begin the environmental review process for the project in the summer of 2018. That process can take more than two years to complete. The Summit at Snoqualmie doesn’t yet have an opening year in mind for the bike park.
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estimates that there are currently about 27,000 eastern North Pacific gray whales, which is a historic high. The population may just be too big for the ecosystem to support. Scientists are also exploring the effects of warming Arctic waters on the shrimp-like amphipods and surface-dwelling small fish that the whales eat. Many of the dead gray whales studied show signs of malnutrition.
BC taking steps to preserve Joffre Lakes Provincial Park The B.C. Ministry of Environment and Climate Change Strategy is taking steps to preserve Joffre Lakes Provincial Park, 35 kilometers east of Pemberton. The popularity of the park, with its Instagram-ready glacial water, has exploded since 2010. Last year, 183,000 people visited, according to a press release from the ministry. To address safety and environmental concerns, the ministry is partnering with the Lil’wat Nation and N’Quatqua First Nations to add stewards to the park who will educate visitors about the park’s natural and cultural values, and maintain facilities at the park. B.C. Parks is also expanding the parking lot to increase vehicle capacity to 450, up from 250, and is offering a shuttle service to the trailhead from the Duffey Lake Provincial Park parking lot. As of June 2019, reservations are required year-round to camp at Upper Joffre Lake campground, the only area in the park that allows camping.
National Park Reserve proposed in south Okanagan-Similkameen The Government of Canada, Government of B.C. and the Sylix/Okanagan Nation are investigating the idea of establishing a national park reserve in the South Okanagan. The current proposed boundary would encompass about 280 square kilometers of land that is currently provincial parks, multi-use Crown Lands and private lands, which would be secured only if owners are willing to sell. The proposed park would include much of the area between the Similkameen and Okanogan rivers, from the U.S./Canada border to Fairview, B.C. The goals for the park are to protect diverse vegetation – the grassland ecosystem in the area is one of Canada’s most endangered natural systems – maintain wildlife habitat and provide opportunities for visitors to recreate and learn about natural and cultural heritage.
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Ski & Snowboard NOAA needs private land for decomposing whales With gray whales dying off the West Coast at twice the normal rate, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration is looking for places to park decomposing whales. The agency is looking for waterfront property owners to volunteer, especially in the inland waters of Puget Sound, where the agency has few sites available for whales to decompose naturally. The eastern North Pacific population of gray whales, which migrates between Baja California and the Arctic, is going through what scientists call an unusual mortality event. As of August 9, 115 gray whales had washed ashore on the west coast of the U.S. and Canada. Scientists don’t know why so many gray whales are dying, but they have some ideas. NOAA
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FALL 2019 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE
11
The
dangers of
bro culture
in
adventure sports BY JASON D. MARTIN
Photos courtesy of Shifting Gears, a nonprofit that creates welcoming and inclusive outdoor experiences.
12
I
t was a perfect day at the Mt. Baker Ski Area – crisp and cold with powder and sunshine. And people were out having fun. I certainly was, as I skied with my two tween children. It was also December 26, so it was really, really busy. That’s when it happened. A male skier with a big beard in his late 30s slid off the exit ramp from Chair 5 and began to weave through slower skiers. That’s where he made his pronouncement. “There’s a lot of gape on the mountain today.” Gape is short for gaper, a word used to deride beginner-level skiers and boarders. In this case, the comment was meant to belittle everyone on the blue run. It was meant to tell them that they didn’t belong on the run because there was someone better there, someone who owned the run, someone who had been skiing for longer than they had. This individual completely and totally discounted the fact that he was on an intermediate trail. Instead, it was more important for him to put the people on this run down. As a professional mountain guide, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve encountered this attitude in the mountains. Climbers will flock to a popular classic route and then complain about people on the line who are climbing at their limit. Skiers in the backcountry will lecture groups about why they shouldn’t be there. Climbing club instructors will shake their heads in disapproval at independent climbers who are doing something they don’t like. This doesn’t just exist in the mountains: select groups of surfers exclude others from a surf break, mountain bikers put down “newbies” on their trails and on the internet, this toxic attitude is ubiquitous. In the outdoor industry, this attitude is often referred to as bro culture. The term bro culture was originally coined as a catch-all to discuss the hypermasculine attitude associated with fraternities, high finance and the tech industry. Sexism, misogyny, racism, homophobia and binge drinking have all been linked to bro culture. But so too is the idea that certain spaces and jobs are only for people who fit a certain profile. Bro culture in outdoor adventure sports could be defined as a culture that promotes the
MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2019 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM
exclusion of others through belittlement, slang, skill, clothing and equipment. Active bro culture promotes exclusion through the acts of putting people down and indicating – verbally and sometimes even physically – that they shouldn’t be there. Passive bro culture is the act of intentionally showing somebody that they shouldn’t be there because of their skill, lack of knowledge of sport-specific slang, or a lack of “appropriately” branded clothing or gear. Those most impacted are those who often already feel like they don’t belong. They frequently include people of color, women, the LGBTQ community and those who don’t have traditional “outdoor athlete-type” body types. There are a lot of conversations within the outdoor industry about diversity and opening our sports to more participants. At the American Alpine Institute, we are actively working on this. The American Mountain Guides Association, REI, the National Outdoor Leadership School, the Association for Outdoor Recreation and Education, the Outdoor Industry Association and hundreds of other groups are also deeply involved. Perhaps the biggest barrier to the participation of new populations in outdoor adventure sports is not the cost, or the remoteness or the lack of instruction. Instead, it’s the attitude that some people just don’t belong. Our public lands are under attack by those who would like to see them privatized and destroyed for industry. We need people who understand the value of these lands to work as stewards, rangers, outdoor educators and guides. We need future generations of politicians, scientists, naturalists and climate activists to be inspired by the land we love. If the current demographic trends continue, the United States will become a majority-minority country by 2043. If we embrace bro culture and continue to bar entry to those who don’t already fit the narrow mold of outdoor recreation, then who will take the reins in the future? Who will fight for our public lands? We are so deeply inspired by the adventure sports we participate in that we don’t say that we climb; we say we’re climbers. We don’t say we ski; we say we’re skiers. We don’t say we surf; we say we’re surfers. These activities are more than just distractions to us; they define us. It is deeply arrogant to believe that we are the only ones who deserve this. What right do we have to block others from such inspiration?
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FALL 2019 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE
13
A
fter 15 years in business – growing from a coffee cart with baked goods on the porch of the Glacier Ski Shop to a café that, for many, is the heart of Glacier – the Wake ‘N Bakery in Glacier, Washington, has new
Wake ‘N Bakery changing hands after 15 years BY OLIVER LAZENBY Jen Henson and Drew Schwehr, new owners of the Wake ‘N Bakery.
owners. Drew Schwehr and Jen Henson bought the business in July, and former owner Court Andersen is sticking around through September to get them started. Upon visiting the Wake ‘N Bakery for the first time, Schwehr and Henson found themselves enamored with the business. Though they’ve made some minor changes to the menu and have more planned for the future, they aim to keep it the same bakery that people love, making changes slowly and with the blessing of the business’s long-time managers. Court and Rebecca Andersen served their first latte at the Wake ‘N Bakery on the porch of the Glacier Ski Shop on Christmas Eve 2004. Court and Rebecca kept at it, eventually outgrowing the porch and purchasing their current location, behind the ski shop at 6903 Bourne Street, in 2010. They expanded with hot breakfast and lunch options, more baked goods, merchandise and space for customers to relax inside. Over time, stopping at the Wake ‘N Bakery on the way to the Mt. Baker Ski Area or to hikes on the Mt. Baker Highway became a ritual for many outside Glacier, and the bakery became the heart of the community for many locals. Court and Rebecca decided to move to southern Oregon to be near family and started trying to sell the business last July. Meanwhile, Schwehr and Henson, burned out on life in a Denver suburb, were looking for a café or restaurant to buy in a ski town. Schwehr had alternated between building homes and working in kitchens while the couple moved from ski town to ski town, living in Jackson Hole, Whitefish, Breckenridge, Salt Lake City and then Evergreen, Colorado. Working in kitchens was Schwehr’s passion, and he wanted to work for himself. They started their search for a business in Colorado and slowly
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expanded, until they found the Wake ‘N Bakery. “We saw the pictures on the listing and we both got goose bumps. We just knew,” Henson said. They flew out to see it on President’s Day weekend 2019. The coffee immediately stood out. The Wake ‘N Bakery brews Strictly Organic Coffee from Bend, Oregon. “The first thing I noticed was it’s delicious and so full of flavor with so little acid,” Schwehr said. The location wasn’t bad either. “I’m a snowboarder and I was a Craig Kelly-era snowboarder, so this area was always on the list,” Schwehr said. Court Andersen thought he’d have a hard time finding a buyer he liked for the business he and his wife had nurtured. After six months and several potential buyers falling through, he started to think he’d have to lower his standards. Then he met Drew and Jen. “I really wanted to find the right person for the bakery and for Glacier because I think it’s a really important institution for Glacier to have,” he said. “Once they came in the door and shook hands and I saw their smiles, I thought OK, these guys might do it. Working with them has just been great. It’s one of those rare moments where everybody wins.” Schwehr and Henson have some ideas for the Wake ‘N Bakery. They applied for a liquor license and they’d like to barbecue pulled pork, smoked carnitas and carne asada in the future. They’ll probably offer more savory items, because that’s Schwehr’s background. But they plan to make any changes slowly. The bakery is keeping its 11 employees, including three longtime managers. “They've been doing this a long time. We meet every Sunday and we basically get their blessing on everything because they know what the community wants and what visitors are looking for,” Schwehr said. “We just got here and we don’t know yet. So every decision we make, we’re going to run by them.” The Wake ‘N Bakery is open seven days a week from 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. and more information can be found at getsconed.com.
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September 7 • 11am - 6pm
Skagit River Salmon Festival
Edgewater Park in Mount Vernon
Live Music
jazz-blues, brazilian, bluegrass, indie rock
Food Trucks | Craft Vendors Beer & Wine Garden featuring north sound brewing company
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IT’SN G A OW K S
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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2019 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM
from Postcard in
ta n u o M e in Brandyw In a sea oofupnetaaiknss ast M in the Co
ton ah Single By Hann
I
n the southwestern corner of British Columbia, lost in the Coast Range, lays a blocky, granite summit: Brandywine Mountain. It’s one among hundreds, seemingly indistinct in a swirling sea of jagged peaks as far as the eye can see. Despite its remote nature, this peak is accessible by a moderate hiking trail that ascends through dense forest, crosses meadows and traverses rocky ridgelines. On a dry summer day, our car bumped along the forest service dirt road that led to the Brandywine Meadows trail. From the lower trailhead, the trail leads directly uphill. Whoever built it didn’t believe in switchbacks; we grasped for tree roots and rocks as we used our hands to hoist ourselves up along the steepest sections. We crawled higher; gaining 1,000 feet in under a mile, and eventually emerged from the misty forest into a meadow. We hopped along on wooden planks built by a trail crew to protect the marshy environment. The trees and shrubs got progressively shorter, a sign of adaptation to the windy, harsh alpine terrain. As we crested one hill, we stared straight at an otherworldly meadow set in a basin and surrounded by towering granite peaks. Brandywine Mountain rose from the earth, perfectly framed by the surrounding peaks and U-shaped valley. A stream
flowed through the lush green landscape, giving life to colorful wildflowers popping up along the banks. Hundreds of magenta sweet peas and red paintbrush danced in the breeze. The trail followed this stream for a couple of miles before culminating at a large boulder. From here, we crossed the creek and headed uphill on a climber’s trail. The narrow path zigzagged up a steep slope of alpine heather. We were careful to follow the cairns (rock markers) to ensure that we weren’t trampling fragile alpine plants. After a couple of miles and a few thousand feet of elevation gain, we stood atop the ridgeline looking out towards Brandywine Mountain. An hour of fun scrambling brought us to the summit. We had arrived. Standing atop the peak was a joyous moment filled with awe and reverence for our surroundings. But our trip had never been about the destination. The journey through the meadows and up the ridgeline allowed us to become part of the landscape, to learn from the plants and rocks and small animals we encountered, and to open our senses to enjoy more than just sweeping vistas. We gazed down at the glacier below us, cracks forming where the ice field rolled over a rise in the earth, and we saw power and vulnerability simultaneously.
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Q&A
Kacie Cleveland, the woman who skated across the U.S. in 47 days BY OLIVER LAZENBY
Images, clockwise from left: Illustration by Doug De Visser | Cleveland’s collection of medals from stairclimbing and other sports. Oliver Lazenby photo | Cleveland at her gym, Kulshan CrossFit, with her children. Oliver Lazenby photo | The converted school bus that supported Cleveland’s skate trip across the country | Skating through Arizona. Photos courtesy of Kacie Cleveland.
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acie Cleveland, owner of Kulshan CrossFit gym in Bellingham, holds the record for the fastest trip across America on inline skates. That’s a record that begs a question: why would anyone do that? For Cleveland, 34, the answer includes a struggle with a potentially fatal illness that rearranged her outlook and priorities at 20 years old. Cleveland excelled as a college track athlete at California Polytechnic State University until health problems sidelined her. She developed heart failure as a side effect from birth control at age 20. Her heart rate would soar to well over 200 beats per minute and then her heart would stop. She’d regain consciousness with a heart rate in the 20s. Though these episodes started a month after she began taking birth control, seven specialists couldn’t diagnose her. “I hit a point where I had to see a therapist to accept that I was going to die because my doctors were turning me away saying, ‘I can’t treat you anymore, I don’t know how to fix it,’” she said. Cleveland suspected her birth control was the problem and decided to stop taking it, against the advice of her doctors. Her heart problems disappeared, but a rare condition called compartment syndrome, which she’d been struggling with at the same time as her heart issues, lingered. Compartment syndrome is an exercise-induced nerve and muscle condition that mostly affects young athletes. For Kacie, it caused swelling in her legs that prevented oxygen from reaching her nerves and muscles. This made running impossible at times, but skating was easier. “I started skating longer and longer distances because I wanted that feeling of running distances,” she said. “That’s how I fell in love with distance skating.” Recovering from heart disease, Cleveland had a fresh perspective on life. She hiked Machu Picchu and started pursuing other bucket list goals. One of her goals – road tripping across the U.S. – snowballed into inline skating across the U.S. She wanted to do it as a fundraiser for the Special Olympics and started looking for sponsors. The record holder for the fastest inline skating trip across the country, Danny Dannels, reached out and encouraged her to try to break the record. Cleveland has a competitive streak – in college, she’d count how many people she could pass on the way to class – so she decided to go for it. By that point, her compartment syndrome had subsided and she was already an accomplished athlete – she had taken up the “sport” of stair climbing and become one of the best in the world. She’d developed mental armor for extreme endurance; as a stair climber, she’d pushed her body so far that she injured it several times. Once in a race, her lungs expanded so much that they tore the muscles between her ribs. So in May 2012, she set off to skate about 2,700 miles from Solana Beach, California, to Jacksonville Beach, Florida. With help from a support team in a converted school bus, Cleveland not only broke the record, but smashed it by more than 22 days, reaching the Atlantic Ocean in 47 days, 23 hours and 37 minutes. Now, with her days of pushing her body until it breaks behind her (hopefully), Cleveland knows a thing or two about endurance and has a refined philosophy on life. MBE: Did your health issues lead you toward inline skating across the country and other crazy goals? KC: Yeah, 100 percent. When you think you have all the time in the world, you’re going to go on that trip later, when you’ve saved up money and the time is right. I decided I’m not waiting anymore; I’m going to do it. That’s how I still live my life. I make life decisions based on not wanting to regret anything. Part of me thought, “I might die soon, so I’ll make my bucket list. I’m going all in.” It was a blessing – usually people have those realizations
when they're older and they don't have the energy or the will to do it. I was 20. Skating across the country isn’t really something people do, right? I believe three or four men had done it. It’s not like biking across the country. I thought about biking, but I wanted to skate. I thought biking was too normal, and I was a skater ... I mean, I thought I was. Did you have a good idea of what it would actually be like? No idea. I didn’t even have the right skates. Did you originally want to break the record? Not at first. I talked my husband into doing it by saying, ‘“We’re going to explore the country and I'm just going to skate.” I was like, “I'll just skate 50 miles a day, I'll skate in the morning and we can explore in the afternoon,” not realizing that some days I’d skate for 15 hours straight and barely get 48 miles in, because the road conditions and wind were so bad. What were those slow days like? If you have no perspective of skating on rough roads with wind in Texas – I could bust out 50 miles in two-and-a-half hours here on nice roads. Some days in Texas I did 30 miles and it took me 12 hours. There were days where I literally had my skates on and I was walking through sand, stepping, not gliding. Once we hit Louisiana, it rained every single day and I skated through floods. The water would be over the top of my skates. We were pushing through fully flooded streets. So you’re not skating, you’re just shoving through water. I had to change my bearings every day. How did you keep yourself going mentally? It all comes down to mental games. I tried to focus on one day at a time and skate 50 miles a day. So if I did 48 one day, I tried to do at least 52 miles the next day. I didn’t tell myself at the end of the day, I have 1,950 miles to go. You have to make more immediate goals. Endurance training is all mental. It obviously helps to be physically fit, but it’s very mental. What’s the farthest you skated in a day? I wanted to get a 100-mile-day the whole time. I didn’t get it until Mississippi where the roads were smooth. I skated 101 miles. It was probably 11 p.m. when we finished that day. How did you handle hills? When it was really steep I would brake behind Kevin, a friend who came along on a bicycle. What we would do is, he would brake and I would push off of his back, so I wasn’t wearing out wheels. Because what I would do otherwise is drag my wheels, and that’s hard on the wheels and especially on my knees. Or you’d just ride it out. How fast did you go? I know we went 38 miles an hour. After 38, I wouldn’t look at my watch. Moving my head to look down or up changed my velocity at that point. How dangerous was the trip? Every road is dangerous but a few were extra dangerous. In Alabama, we only skated in the middle of the night because they would run us off the road. It was very dangerous there. Did you enjoy it? Does it stand out as a highlight among your bucket list trips? It definitely does. It was such a long adventure; we had so much fun and experienced so many emotions. We saw the country; we saw everything. I’m grateful that I was able to do it. How were you able to beat the previous record by 22 days? It was 100 percent because of my support team. I was able to just focus on what I was good at, which was skating and pushing myself. My husband and Kevin were in charge of the route. They just told me where to go.
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Backpacking and Unwinding the Torso Undo the effects of hiking in a heavy pack BY LUCA WILLIAMS
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n the time I’ve known my husband, he’s only ever gone backpacking, reluctantly, with our oldest son or myself. When I plan a trip, he rolls his eyes at my love of walking for miles with a heavy load on my back. He asks what the point is of sleeping on the ground when he could mountain bike for a few hours and still sleep in his cozy bed at night. He’s only instigated a backpacking trip once; after I left for a four-day hike from Hannegan Pass to Ross Lake, our oldest son was so excited about my trip that he too wanted to go backpacking, and so off they went. When they arrived at camp, my husband told my son, “If mom was here she would make sure that we hang the food bag, but it’s really no big deal so let’s just stick our food in the tent.” Five minutes later a bear strolled through their campsite. They immediately changed their minds and hung the bag and we all laughed for years about that bear. So I was surprised when he told me he was considering a five-day trip with some college buddies along the Washington coast. Three things came to mind: first, he has got to get in backpacking shape for a trip that long. Second, he hasn’t backpacked in years and he needs to do some gentle stretching after each day or he will be a mess. Third, I immediately started a mental list of all the things he needed to bring. Then he astonished me by beginning his own list, but the first three items on it were a Bota bag, a bottle of bourbon and a bear canister.
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For me, backpacking has always been about simplicity, perseverance and enjoying the beauty of nature. For my husband, backpacking was obviously about connecting with his college buddies by drinking and playing his ukulele. I learned two things: one, liquor has to be at the top of my list if I want him to go backpacking without rolling his eyes at me; and two, my husband would plan for bears even without my suggestion. My husband is right – backpacking is hard work, especially on the knees, back, shoulders and neck. Cross-country mountain biking for a few hours a day puts way less impact on the lower body (unless you fall). The thing about backpacks is, not only are they heavy, but they inhibit torso rotation and achieving full leg swing can be difficult depending on the fit and position of the hip/waist belt. In normal walking, when our left leg comes forward, our lumbar spine (the section between our hips and our ribs) bends left and rotates right while the thoracic spine (torso area from the bottom of the ribs to the top of the ribs) rotates left. The right arm comes forward and we push off of our toes on the right leg, creating rotation that twists and untwists the torso with each step. This rotation is called contralateral rotation. I have come to think that this rotation helps keep the spine and rib cage flexible. When we mess with this beautiful walking motion, we can develop pain. Many daily activities such as driving and working on a computer inhibit this motion. The walking or moving that we do in between activities is like a reset button. Swinging your arms, dancing and turning your head from side to side also increases torso rotation. To demonstrate how important this rotation is hold your arms by your sides and don’t allow them to move or swing. Now go for a little walk. Notice how rigidly your torso moves when you don’t swing your arms. With a heavy pack on that winding and unwinding motion of the spine and arm movement are somewhat compromised. In order to maintain flexibility while backpacking, on your breaks or after your hike you can try this simple movement to improve and exaggerate contralateral rotation. It is not intended to be a stretch, but I find that it does stretch my arms and torso. When you step forward with your left leg, push off your right toes and stretch your right arm up to the sky. Then do the opposite; step your right leg forward, push off with your left foot’s toes and stretch your left arm in the air. Take about 10 steps exaggerating this motion. Now go for a walk and compare how much better your arms swing. At the same time pay attention to how your hips move from side to side. That is contralateral rotation. Imagine doing this motion after carrying 45 pounds on your back. I know that this time my husband is taking precautions for traveling in bear territory. But my real question is, will he try this movement at the end of the day?
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Preparing mentally for a running race Run it like you train, and other tips BY SNEHA PATEL, DOCTOR OF OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE
P
eaceHealth is the title sponsor of the Bellingham Bay Marathon, which takes place on September 29, so we’re focusing our attention on training our bodies and especially our minds. Whether you’re thinking about challenging yourself with a 5K or a full marathon, mastering the mental aspect of running will be key to your success.
easier and you will enjoy some mini victories along the way. Also, try to visualize the race wherever you may be training. As you prepare for your training run, go through in your mind what you will be thinking and doing prior to the race. As you run, thinking about running with others and other unique aspects of the course can help keep surprises at a minimum on the day of the race.
WHAT TO DO BEFORE RACE DAY? It’s helpful to keep your mind quiet when running. Some experts advise repeating positive affirmations such as “relax, relax, relax,” “soft is strong” or “run strong, run long.” Find the words that work for you. As you get used to your mantra, you can use it on race day and it will be familiar to you. Avoid negative self-talk. If you find that your stride is not smooth, don’t berate yourself. Instead, take the opportunity to correct your stride and get back into a good rhythm. If you start thinking about how tired you’re going to feel at mile 22 when you’ve only just begun, it can turn into a very long run. Break up your run into manageable segments. It will seem
ON RACE DAY Try to go through your typical pre-training routines so that everything seems familiar to you. Try to stay relaxed and control your breathing. Remember the mantra that you may have been using in your preparation runs and use it when you start getting nervous. Focus on your race strategy. Try to stay in the moment and don’t think too far ahead. You’ve trained at a certain pace and keeping that familiar pace will help. Run the race like you train. Fatigue is not just in the body. We get fatigue signals from the brain well before fatigue in the body sets in. Think of the
gas tank that warns you when the tank is nearly empty, well before you run out of gas. Don’t let your brain fool you into thinking you’re tired before you really are. When you start feeling fatigue setting in you can address it directly and say, “Hello, fatigue, I can’t talk with you now, I have to finish this race.” If you try running at 100 percent, you’ll get tenser. Try running around 90 percent. This will help you stay relaxed, knowing that you still have something left. If you are feeling tense, try smiling, even if you don’t feel like it. AFTER THE RACE After running a race, you will look back on some successes and some things you wished you had done better. Make sure to take note of both. Regardless of the distance completed, it is an accomplishment to finish any portion of the race. Allow yourself to enjoy this moment and revel in sharing it with hundreds of others in the community. We look forward to seeing you at the Bellingham Bay Marathon. Register at bellinghambaymarathon.org
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From top: Liberty Bell after a fall snowstorm. Alan Majchrowicz photo | Wes Hoen on a boulder at Larrabee State Park. Ben Shanks Kindlon photo.
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Clockwise from top left: Adam McCoy following the warm light on a late summer day in Whatcom County. Brad Andrew photo | Eythan Frost powersliding through autumn on Western Washington University’s campus. Ben Shanks Kindlon photo | A climber enjoys the exposure of the Sunshine Wall at Frenchman Coulee. Matthew Tangeman photo | The Strawberry Moon rises over a north flank of Mt. Baker. Audra Lee Mercille photo | Fall color on Ptarmigan Ridge. Jefferson Morriss photo | Pedaling to climb in the Twin Sisters Range. Evan Skoczenski photo.
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Clockwise from top left: Justin Norman, backside lipslide in Bellingham. Ben Shanks Kindlon photo | Adam McCoy weaving through the Anacortes Community Forest Lands. Brad Andrew photo | Trail running in the golden hour. Evan Skoczenski photo | Forests in the Homathko River watershed, B.C. Matthew Tangeman photo.
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Clockwise from top left: Winter paddling on Bellingham Bay. Evan Skoczenski photo | Twenty percent chance of rain in the Pasayten Wilderness. Matthew Tangeman photo | Jeff Rich filters water in Escalante, Utah. Jason Hummel photo. | Hikers descending toward the Methow Valley. Audra Lee Mercille photo | Three hikers after a fall snowstorm in the Enchantments. Jason Griffith photo | Last light at a North Cascades fire lookout. Audra Lee Mercille photo.
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First paraplegic ascent of
Mt. BakeR
After paralysis, sit-skiing off a volcano gives Anna Soens the unparalleled freedom she feared she’d lost. BY OLIVER LAZENBY PHOTOS BY PAUL BIKIS
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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2019 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM
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ith a sea of peaks to the east and saltwater to the west, Anna Soens sits above Mt. Baker’s Roman Wall, ready to ski 5,000 vertical feet of softening snow back to camp. For Soens, 31, the location and impending descent feel like freedom. While skiers from Warren Miller to beginners on the rope tow like to talk about the freedom the sport provides, that platitude has a deeper meaning for Soens. The Boise, Idaho, resident spends the majority of her time in a wheelchair, but as soon as she’s strapped into her sit-ski – a seat suspended above a single ski – she feels “so much less disabled,” she said. She may have been slower than her partners on the climb, which was the first paraplegic ascent of Mt. Baker, but now she’s on equal footing. As gravity kicks in, she carves low, arcing turns, spraying snow down the 45-degree slope. For Soens – and for most skiers – that level of freedom is unparalleled. Before a climbing accident in December 2015 left her partially paralyzed, Soens had a life with maximum time outside. She worked as a wildlife field biologist with a schedule of two weeks on, one week off: two week studying cougars and investigating their kills in remote wilderness in Nevada, followed by one week rock climbing, and repeat. “I was basically just paid to camp and hike and follow mountain lions around central and western Nevada,” she said. “I spent eight months that year living out of a backpacking tent and work trucks. I didn’t have a physical address, didn’t have a room to call my own. I lived and worked and breathed outdoors the whole time.” She was visiting family in Portland, Oregon, for Christmas 2015, and getting in some time at a climbing gym on December 17. After climbing multiple laps on an auto belay device, which takes up slack for climbers and then lowers them slowly, she decided to go for one more lap and forgot to clip in. She let go and leaned back at the top of the wall and fell 35 feet, landing in a sitting position and breaking her lowest thoracic vertebrae. Doctors told Soens
she’d never walk again. A week later, Soens and her family celebrated Christmas in the hospital and she gave her father a guidebook for climbing Mt. Hood – a gift she purchased before the injury, as they were planning on climbing it together. “I figured I’d still give it to him,” she said. “I don’t know if I actually believed it was still possible when I gave it to him, but I was hoping for the best.” After surgery, Soens moved in with her sister in Portland, where it hit home that her life was irreparably different. In the months after her injury she regained some function in her legs and can walk short distances with leg braces and crutches, but tasks she previously did automatically were now challenging. Her former lifestyle was impossible. Navigating day-to-day life in a wheelchair, though, wasn’t as challenging as the realization that she had lost her exceptionally independent life. “After my accident, the actual physical paralysis was kind of secondary. The lack of freedom was what hit me most,” Soens said. She took a year to focus on physical therapy and quickly discovered the world of adaptive sports. Just a few months after the accident, she went car camping by herself and she was soon exploring new sports such as kayaking and rowing. A year after her injury, though her life wasn’t the same, it was coming back together. She got a job in the same field, but this time at a desk in Boise, as a biologist for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. She met a community of adaptive athletes and had her eye on a threewheeled hand-pedaled mountain bike and a sit-ski, toys that can cost $10,000 each. She sold her beloved climbing rack, applied for grants and eventually bought those things. Bend, Oregon-based Oregon Adaptive Sports helped train her to use them, enabling her to get outside in new ways. On the way home from a ski trip to Crested Butte, Colorado, she emailed a bunch of friends to see if they were interested in helping plan a trip up Mt. Hood. A friend who guides adaptive rock climbing put Soens in touch with Mike Elges of Baker Mountain Guides. “Pretty quickly she was asking me, “So, do you think I can climb Mt. Hood?”” Elges said. “I was like, ‘Well, do you think you can climb Mt. Hood?’” She’s just so positive about everything. She has this cool confidence about it all. She made me feel pretty certain that we could do it.” With the help of a friend, Soens modified some ski poles, replacing the handle with forearm crutches. The poles allow her to stabilize most of her weight with her arms. To climb, she plants her ski poles and hoists her body up with her triceps. She has strength and movement in her quads and hip flexors, but little use of the rest of her legs. On steep enough terrain, she can guide her feet into steps kicked by her climbing partners. On really steep terrain, she drops to all fours into a bear crawl, aided by crampons and two ice axes. Adaptive
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athletes typically have to come up with creative ways to use equipment and their bodies. For Soens, there was no blueprint. “You have to be kind of a MacGyver because there’s always problem solving,” she said. “Depending on your background and how you’re feeling on a particular day it can be a fun challenge or really daunting.” Despite the challenges, the technique got her to the summit of Mt. Hood on May 29, 2018, along with her father and 12 others. Climbing the mountain together was probably one of the most important things the two of them will ever do, Soens said. “It was hugely significant to both of us,” she said. The climb was more than a way for Soens to fulfill a pre-accident plan with her father: the experience opened up a world of possibility and adventure. Climbing peaks and skiing down them could fill the void left by rock climbing, her passion before the injury. “When I first fell, I thought the age of exploration and seeing new things was over,” Soens said. “Especially since I’m still new to skiing, it still has so much excitement for me. It has this level of freedom that I think is a little unparalleled.” By the end of the trip, Elges, Soens and her friends were talking about what to climb next. Baker was an obvious choice – the skiing on Mt. Hood was icy and shrouded in fog: Baker would be a better ski, Elges promised, and Soens didn’t need much convincing. On May 10, 2019, Soens, Elges and 11 others set out from the Park Butte trailhead on the south side of Mt. Baker, aiming for the Squak Glacier. Though Baker isn’t as tall as Mt. Hood, the climb would be more challenging due to a longer approach, bigger glaciers and three times the elevation gain. It’s also more remote, with a rescue being farther away. On Mt. Hood, the team rode the ski lift to 8,540 feet, leaving 2,710 feet to Hood’s summit, at 11,250 feet. On Baker, they’d climb from about 3,300 feet to Baker’s summit at 10,781 feet, without a ski lift to deposit Soens above treeline where the route becomes more straightforward. They planned four days for the climb: two-and-a-half to go up, one-and-a-half to get down. Soens walked some of the first day, and rode in a sled towed by three others for parts of it – the mellow terrain low on the mountain is actually harder for Soens than the steep glacier climbing above. The group divided her gear, including the sit-ski, to leave Soens unencumbered. At the end of the first day, the team camped at about 6,500 feet. On the second day, they climbed another 3,000 feet to a camp near the summit of Mt. Sherman. Elges and the other guides from Baker Mountain Guides put more effort than typical into the food, cooking fajitas and other hot meals devoid of dehydrated ingredients. Much of the team was also on the Mt. Hood climb – people Elges met for the first time on Hood were now friends. “One of the best parts about the trip was that it didn’t feel like anything super special,” he said. “Mostly it was just climbing this mountain as a group of friends and having a really good time doing it. It never felt like you were putting in extra effort to help somebody up the mountain.” On the third day, the team traversed to the Roman Wall and climbed to the summit, where they celebrated with hugs and cheers before pointing their skis downhill. The top 500 feet of skiing was a little firm, Elges said. “After that it was glory all the way back down to that low camp,” he said. “She’s just a beautiful skier. It is amazing to see a sit-ski going down the Roman Wall.” The group camped another night at 6,500 feet before bushwhacking back to the car. Skiing through the lower elevation slopes, riddled with sit-ski-swallowing tree wells and creeks, proved to be more difficult than summiting for Soens. Unlike the rest of the skiers, Soens can’t snowplow on her sitski, a useful technique for bashing through tree limbs on a vanishing snowpack. “The fact that I did not hit a tree or end up in a creek is a minor miracle,” she said. “I’m notorious for breaking
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skis. My big accomplishment is the fact that I did not break a bone.” Being the first paraplegic athlete to summit Baker doesn’t mean much to Soens. Actually, she’d probably prefer not to be. Before her injury, Soens explains, her climbing and other athletic endeavors weren’t pushing boundaries. Post-injury, she feels like she should fall in the same spot on the athletic bell curve. That’s partly why she’s reluctantly taken on a role as an advocate and example for adaptive athletes. She’s done countless media interviews and she let a film crew come along to film her Mt. Baker ascent for an upcoming documentary called “Adapted.” She doesn’t love being on camera, but it’s worth it to help normalize the kind of adventures she’s going on, she said. “I’ve agreed to do these things to help bring awareness and help normalize these types of adventures. There’s a huge capacity in other folks with disabilities to pursue these things,” she said. And for those who don’t have disabilities, the will of adaptive athletes to climb mountains is a powerful example of the importance of remote landscapes and playing outside. That’s what Paul Bikis, director and producer of Adapted, aims to highlight in his film, which he hopes to release in late 2020. “I never set out to make a film about adaptive athletes. I wanted to make a film about our important connection to nature. Adaptive athletes seemed like a good way to tell that story,” he said. “I think the adaptive community is just such a strong and positive community. There are a lot of people right now who are excited about getting other people outside.” After her spinal cord injury, Soens connected with a group of mentors and other adaptive athletes that inspired and encouraged her. While her new life is different from her old life, Soens is OK with that. “Honestly, I feel really lucky to have found these sports and this community where I really do feel that my life is as good if not better than before my fall,” Soens said. “I feel like I’m still pushing my boundaries, still having fun, still being fulfilled. I think before this injury I was in a bit of a rut, bopping around between seasonal jobs. If anything, I feel that I almost have more direction now. I don’t know if purpose is the right word, but I do have this community and I value my time outdoors more than I used to.”
The fact that I did not hit a tree or end up in a creek is a minor miracle
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One of four cutblocks in the area known as the Donut Hole, at the headwaters of the Skagit River. The cutblocks, totaling about 168 acres, were logged last summer.
DOnut HOle Logging and mining in B.C. headwaters threaten the Skagit River STORY AND PHOTOS BY OLIVER LAZENBY
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efore we see our destination, we smell it. We’re walking a new logging road through an ancient forest; the trees are beginning to get smaller with elevation. The road follows Smitheram Creek, a tributary to the Skagit River, into an alpine bowl in the Canadian North Cascades. The citrusy smell of living, growing fir and spruce needles perfumes the air around us. Then, air blows down the narrow creek valley, pushing out the forest aroma and carrying a different smell: sawdust. Half a mile later, we round a bend and see the smell’s source. At nearly 5,000 feet of elevation in the North Cascades, next to a green meadow in an avalanche path, we see the clearcut. It’s one of four cutblocks totaling 168 acres that was auctioned off by B.C. Timber Sales – the government organization that manages logging on Crown Land – and cut in summer 2018. All four clearcuts are in an area known as “the Donut Hole,” a Manhattan-sized chunk of unprotected land sandwiched between E.C. Manning Provincial Park and Skagit Valley Provincial Park, 15 miles from the U.S. border. Both parks connect to North Cascades National Park, and together with the surrounding wilderness areas, national recreation areas and national forest, make up an immense chunk of wild lands that span the border. The Skagit River drains most of that area, starting in the clearcuts we came to see – as well as countless other peaks, tarns and wetlands – and flowing into Ross Lake, Diablo Lake, out the long Skagit Valley and into the Salish Sea. The Skagit is the only river in Washington state with all five northern species of Pacific salmon and the state has invested millions into the river for salmon recovery. It also hosts endangered bull trout and one of the largest wintering bald eagle populations in the lower 48 states. “The Skagit puts more Chinook salmon in Puget Sound than any other system, more chum salmon than any other system in the lower 48,” said Joe Foy, co-executive director of the Wilderness Committee, a B.C.-based nonprofit, and my guide to the Donut Hole. “It’s just a beautiful river and a really valuable river.” Foy, who’s been working to protect the Donut Hole for decades, can’t help but swear about it: “Look at that shit.” His knowledge of the situation makes it more offensive. Not only is it a scar in a wilderness that spans an international border, but it’s also a chunk of land that could be important for bringing grizzly bears back to the North Cascades – B.C. designated it a high priority for grizzly recovery. Additionally, Foy and many others feel that the clearcuts violate the spirit, if not the intent, of an international treaty governing the upper Skagit and other cross-border waterways.
Map courtesy of the Wilderness Committee. Below: Joe Foy, co-executive director of the Wilderness Committee, has worked on protecting the Donut Hole for decades.
That’s all trumped by what could come next. The Donut Hole was left out of Manning Park, B.C.’s most visited provincial park, because of pre-existing mineral rights. Logging in the area is legal, but the clearcuts in a relatively pristine wilderness led to strong expressions of disapproval from both sides of the border last summer – Seattle mayor Jenny Durkan wrote a letter to B.C. Premier John Horgan, expressing “grave concern.” In response, B.C. put future logging in the Donut Hole on hold. Then, in December 2018, a mining company with an environmental disaster on its resume applied for a permit for exploratory gold mining in the area. News of that permit application by Imperial Metals led to another international outcry – this time every senator from Washington, Idaho, Montana and Alaska signed a letter to Horgan, highlighting the risks posed by mining near headwaters of international rivers. “While we appreciate Canada’s engagement to date, we remain concerned about the lack of oversight of Canadian mining projects near multiple transboundary rivers that originate in B.C. and flow into our four U.S. states,” the letter reads. Dozens of elected officials, environmental organizations and tribal organizations on both sides of the border also voiced opposition to this permit, including
The upper Skagit River, just downstream of the Donut Hole.
“THE SKAGIT PUTS MORE CHINOOK SALMON IN PUGET SOUND THAN ANY OTHER SYSTEM, MORE CHUM SALMON THAN ANY OTHER SYSTEM IN THE LOWER 48. IT’S JUST A BEAUTIFUL RIVER AND A REALLY VALUABLE RIVER.” FALL 2019 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE
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minerals present at Imperial Metals’ claim in the Donut Hole) is toxic to many freshwater species. It can damage salmon’s sense of smell, which they use to find their upstream to their spawning grounds. The Mt. Polley spill hurt tourism and other industries in the area, though people are once again swimming and fishing in Quesnel Lake. It remains one of the worst mining disasters in Canadian history and experts say it could take decades to learn the full extent of the damage. Five years later, Imperial Metals still hasn’t been charged for the disaster.
rights in the Donut Hole. Since it’s an international treaty, one might expect that the B.C. government would be helpful in securing SEEC’s goal of acquiring mining rights. That hasn’t been the case: B.C. Timber Sales didn’t even inform SEEC about last summer’s logging in the Donut Hole. “Acquiring it is part of our mandate. I believe that we will continue to work to try to facilitate the purchase of it. As for how we’re doing it, we’re just moving forward on our intent,” said Tom Curley, SEEC co-chair.
HIGH ROSS TREATY The Oregon Treaty of 1846 set the border between the U.S. and Canada at the 49th parallel. The ruler-straight line doesn’t regard watersheds or ridgelines, causing a number of cross-border resource issues. For the Skagit River, the issue of logging and mining is only the latest in nearly a decade of conflict and resolution surrounding the river’s headwaters. In 1942, Seattle City Light, hungry for more electricity for Seattle, began negotiating an agreement with B.C. to raise Ross Dam, which would have flooded 5,000 additional acres of B.C.’s upper Skagit Valley. The B.C. government made the agreement public in 1967, to much protest, and then began renegotiating. The talks led to an agreement: Seattle City Light wouldn’t raise the dam, and B.C. would sell the utility company power for the rate it would have gotten from a bigger dam. The two nations made that agreement formal in the 1984 High Ross Treaty. That treaty also established the Skagit Environmental Endowment Commission (SEEC) to manage an endowment fund to preserve the upper Skagit watershed. Among its many goals, SEEC was charged with working to acquire logging and mineral
WHY LOG THE DONUT HOLE? Foy and I continue walking, the surrounding scenery still beautiful despite the logging scars. We reach the first clearcut, where there’s no trace of life, not even fireweed growing in the fresh cut. Many of the stumps are the diameter of a human arm. Looking at the road carved into the mountain and the size of many of the stumps on the clearcut, the finances don’t add up to Foy. B.C. Timber sales funds road construction, then auctions licenses to harvest timber. “I find it very hard to believe that in any free market this made any economic sense,” he said. “I get that some guys were paid to cut trees and drive logging trucks, but the whole show? I don’t believe it. And apparently I don’t have the right to see the whole accounting. “So again I say, what the hell are you guys doing up here? You’re in the middle of parks and supposedly your top priority for getting grizzly bears back. You’ve got an international treaty. What are you doing? Because it doesn’t look like you’re making money for the people.” In response to a question about how much it cost to build and improve roads into the Donut Hole, a spokesperson for B.C.’s Ministry of Forest Lands, Natural Resource Operations and Rural Development said in an email, “the cost of the road was paid for by BCTS, which is a self-financing organization.” While nearly all remaining old-growth in the U.S. is off-limits for timber harvest, that’s not the case in Canada. About 90 percent of Canada is public land, and nearly all of that is open for logging, mining or other resource extraction. According to a 2017 report by the Canadian Parks and Wilderness Society, 10.6 percent of the Canadian landscape is protected for nature. That lags behind the global average of 15 percent and puts Canada last among G7 countries in protecting wilderness. In some ways, 2011 Large Business of the Year Canada hasn’t dealt with the issue of how to have a successful timber industry while also setting aside old-growth for habitat and recreation. For the government, it’s a difficult Family time toOwned halt logging in B.C. Since After 1929! an outbreak of mounand Operated tain pine beetles killed about half the marketable pine trees in the province, the B.C. Ministry
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of Forests increased the allowable annual cut in the early 2010s – doubling it in some areas – to allow the industry to harvest the timber while it still had value. The bonanza is ending, mills are closing and timber industry workers are unemployed. The industry has a “pine beetle hangover” and the government doesn't want to be seen as harming timber jobs, Foy said.
WANT TO GET INVOLVED? Let B.C.’s premier and ministers of environment and forest know what you think about logging and mining in the Skagit River’s headwaters:
WHAT’S NEXT? The B.C. government has been quiet about the Donut Hole this summer. It accepted public comments on Imperial Metals’ mining application until May 17, and it is still consulting with First Nations. “The permit application is currently with the statutory decision maker, who will make a decision when they have completed a thorough review of all input submitted,” a spokesperson for the Ministry of Energy, Mines and Petroleum Resources said in an email. “The ministry makes a serious effort to consider and weigh all relevant information and perspectives, and is committed to conducting a thorough and comprehensive review.” Foy and I wander farther, to the end of a new logging road. We’re the only people in this bowl. It is the headwaters of a celebrated river, but for the moment this chunk of land feels forgotten.
Premier of B.C. John Horgan: premier@gov.bc.ca or 250/387-1715 B.C. Environment Minister: ENV.Minister@gov.bc.ca or 250/387-1187 B.C. Forests Minister: FLNR.Minister@gov.bc.ca or 250/387-6240
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6903 Bourne Street 360/599-9378 getsconed.com Open daily 7:30 a.m.–5ish p.m. Serving breakfast burritos, quiche, soup, lunch wraps and freshly baked goods. Savory and sweet gluten-free options. Organic espresso and coffee. Indoor and outdoor seating. Dine in or take out.
MOUNT VERNON THIRD STREET CAFE 309 South Third Street 360/542-5022 thirdstreetcafe.coop Brought to you by the Skagit Valley Food Co-op, Third Street Cafe is a community-owned restaurant and bar offering a fresh perspective on Pacific Northwest cuisine with its made-from-scratch dishes and hyperlocal ingredients.
SKAGIT VALLEY CO-OP 202 S. 1st Street 360/336-9777 skagitfoodcoop.com We make our deli food from scratch using fresh, quality ingredients, sourced from local and organic suppliers whenever possible. Stop in for entrees, side dishes, soups, salads, sandwiches, or our handmade, organic ice cream. We offer vegan, vegetarian, raw, gluten-free, and whole food choices for every meal.
BLUE T LODGE 10459 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-9944 bluetlodge.com Conveniently located behind Chair 9 Woodstone Pizza and Bar, this six-room inn is ideal for families or groups. Clean rooms have queen-sized beds, a full bathroom and private small patios as well as access to a meeting space.
THE KNOTTY LODGE 360/303-2887 VRBO.com/563675 @knottylodge Explore, Relax, Repeat Premier Mt. Baker vacation rental 3 bed, 2 bath, luxury timber home with modern amenities, hot-tub, WiFi, gourmet kitchen, fireplace, fire pit. Your perfect getaway base camp!
LUXURY GETAWAYS 9989 Mt. Baker Highway 360/398-9590 or 887/90-BAKER stayatmtbaker.com Redefining the cabin in the woods. Luxury Getaways offers a variety of vacation rentals located in the heart of the Mt. Baker Recreational Area. Our accommodations are perfect for hitting the slopes and relaxing.
MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2019 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM
EVENTS SEPTEMBER
find more events and submit your own at mountbakerexperience.com
August 30-September 1, Oak Harbor. A free end of summer music festival featuring folk, rock, R&B, country, blues, jazz and more on the north end of Whidbey Island. More info: oakharborfestival.com
WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL: September
THE GOAT RUN: September 7, Olym-
OAK HARBOR MUSIC FESTIVAL:
6-8, Port Townsend. North America’s premier wooden boat gathering features more than 250 wooden vessels, hundreds of presentations and thousands of experts and enthusiasts. The festival honors tradition while allowing for discussion about the latest innovations. More info: woodenboat.org
SKAGIT RIVER SALMON FESTIVAL:
September 7, Mount Vernon. This fun-filled family event on the banks of the Skagit River offers a great setting to spend the day celebrating the return of the salmon. Live music, beer garden, food and more. More info: skagitriverfest.org
pic National Park. The Great Olympic Adventure Trail Run (GOAT Run) is a one-way trail marathon and half marathon on a route that traverses Kelly Ridge between the Olympic National Park and the Strait of Juan de Fuca with amazing views the entire way. More info: greatoatrun.org
MT. BAKER HILL CLIMB: September 8,
Glacier. The Mt. Baker Hill Climb is back, in its second year hosted by Whatcom Events – the organization that brings you Ski to Sea. The 23-mile road bike race from Glacier to the end of Highway 542 offers three divisions and a whole lot of climbing. More info: bakerhillclimb.com
RUN WITH THE CHUMS 5K: September 14, Birch Bay. Run with the Chums is a fun and free event for all ages to celebrate healthy water & healthy people. Run or walk on a scenic loop through the highlands above Cherry Point Aquatic Reserve and Point Whitehorn and learn more about watershed health while taking care of your own health. More info: whatcomcd.org BELLINGHAM SEAFEAST: September
21-22, Bellingham. World-class seafood, water recreation and more. Eat, play, explore... and eat some more! Free admission. More info: bellinghamseafeast.org
ISLAND QUEST ADVENTURE RACE:
September 21, Orcas Island. Mountain bike, kayak and trek your way through the San Juans. The best route is up to you and your teammates. Three- and 12-hour races. More info: questraces.com
BELLINGHAM TRAVERSE: September 14, Bellingham. Get hooked on the Bellingham Traverse, a fun relay race that celebrates the journey of wild salmon. Form a solo, tandem or relay team to run, bike and paddle through Bellingham’s scenic parks, winding trails and open waterways. More info: bellinghamtraverse.com
and improve the places we play. The first annual awards dinner, ceremony and fundraiser will celebrate the breadth of the outdoor industry. More info: recreationnorthwest.org
WHATCOM COUNTY FARM TOUR:
September 7-8. See, taste, feel, and learn hands-on what goes into local food production on the 13th annual Whatcom County Farm Tour. Visit unique farms and experience the passion and care that goes into producing local food for our community. More info: eatlocalfirst.org
KOMO KULSHAN SKI CLUB SKI AND SNOWBOARD SWAP: October 18-19,
Bellingham. Gear up to hit the slopes at Komo Kulshan Ski Club’s annual ski and snowboard swap. More info: komokulshanskiclub.com
MANNING PARK DARK SKY WEEKEND:
BELLINGHAM BAY MARATHON: September 29, Bellingham. The views of the bay, the San Juan Islands and North Cascades are beautiful, it’s a Boston marathon qualifier and the course entertainment and finish activities are fantastic. More info: bellinghambaymarathon.org
NWAC BENEFIT: October 9, Bellingham.
Join Mount Baker Experience at 122 West Brewing Co, raise money for NWAC and enjoy Warren Miller films through the ages, including vintage Mt. Baker Slush Cup footage. More info: mountbakerexperience.com
GREAT OURDOORS AWARDS: October 12, Bellingham. Celebrate the people, businesses and nonprofits that inspire and enable people to enjoy, preserve
October 18-20, Manning Park. Bring your curiosity about the cosmos to Manning Park’s second annual astronomy weekend, featuring workshops, speakers and star-gazing. More info: manningpark.com
TRAILS TO TAPS: October 20, Belling-
ham. Teams of 5-10 runners race a relay that highlights two of Bellingham’s best assets – beer and trail running. Each leg of the 30-mile course ends at a different brewery. Raffles and costume contest round out the after party fun. More info: trailstotaps.com
TGR PRESENTS ROADLESS: October 22, Bellingham. TGR is returning to the Mount Baker Theatre for a one-night only premiere of the new feature length ski and snowboard film, Roadless. More info: tetongravity.com FRIDAY HARBOR FILM FESTIVAL: October 25-27, Friday Harbor. The seventh annual Friday Harbor Film festival features documentaries that entertain, inspire and enlighten about the people, cultures and environment that make up the area known as the Pacific Rim. More info: fhff.org
NOVEMBER
QUEENS OF DIRT MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE: September 22, Bellingham. This
women and junior girls cross country mountain bike race is intended to create a welcoming experience for new and seasoned female riders of all ages. The course is on Lake Padden’s backloop trails. More info at: queensofdirt.com
OCTOBER CASCADE CROSS SERIES OPENER: Oc-
tober 5, Maple Falls. The first official race of this Northwest cyclocross series is at the Camp Saturna, on Silver Lake outside Maple Falls. Check it out and be ready to get muddy. More info: cascadecross.com
WARREN MILLER’S 70TH FILM, TIMELESS: November 9, Mount Baker Theatre, Bellingham. The 70th annual must-see feature film at the Mount Baker Theatre features skiing throughout Europe, B.C., and the Rockies. More info: warrenmiller.com
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The narrow opening of Shallow Bay on Sucia Island.
Passport to Jones Island A small boat opens up a whole new world in the San Juan Islands
N
STORY AND PHOTOS BY JASON GRIFFITH
osing our way to the beach on Clark Island, I focused on the water, looking for rocks and trying to pick a clear path. Suddenly the cry of “Orca!” came from our friends’ boat, their children excitedly pointing to the channel between Clark and Barnes islands. I turned and looked just in time to see two tall dark fins slice the water. The orcas appeared to be chasing unseen prey up against the craggy shore of Barnes Island, just a few hundred yards away. Keeping our distance (200 yards, and out of their path, per NOAA regulations), we slowly followed astern for a few minutes, quietly admiring the graceful orcas as they disappeared towards Sucia Island, a few miles to the west. There was not another boat or person in sight for miles – this was different from the San Juan Island experience I’m used to. Our trip began four days earlier when we (me, my wife and two young boys) launched our borrowed 16-foot boat with an outboard motor at Washington Park at the west end of Anacortes. I think many assume that exploring the small islands of the San Juans requires either a large boat or a kayak, but for this trip, the 16-foot motorboat was ideal. We were bound for Jones Island Marine State Park, a 188-acre island close to the southwest side of Orcas, about 20 nautical miles from the ramp.
With 128 feet of dock (meaning tides, current and waves are no worry), 24 primitive campsites and four miles of better-than-expected hiking trails, it was a perfect base to explore the San Juans for a week with friends. Every day brought a new adventure to our little flotilla – whether hiking deserted trails on Sucia, swimming in the pool at Roche Harbor, eating immodest ice cream cones at the Orcas ferry dock, SUP crabbing on Jones Island, exploring the settler history of the islands on Stuart Island, perfect beach walking on Clark Island or any number of other adventures on the 10 islands we visited. Many evenings closed with a short walk from camp to watch the sunset, followed by a campfire, s’mores and stars. It was an idyllic and inexpensive summer vacation. We’ve spent months car camping over the years but had never camped by boat in Puget Sound. While the gear isn’t much different, boat camping does require a bit of additional planning. Not surprisingly, first you need a boat that can safely haul your party and gear across many miles of often choppy and always frigid saltwater. Sixteen feet and 40 horsepower is probably about the minimum for what a family of four can consider safe and fun. Second, Washington state requires all boaters piloting a boat with 15 horsepower or more to have a
An orca surfaces between Clark and Barnes islands.
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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2019 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM
boater safety card. All boaters must also have on board at all times life jackets for everyone (kids must be wearing them), flares, a fire extinguisher, horn/whistle/bell, throwable personal flotation device, boat registration and navigation lights, in addition to having a carbon monoxide warning sticker and their registration numbers/decals displayed. A marine radio is also a good idea in case of emergencies, although there is sometimes cell service. This may all seem like a bit much, but you have a high chance of being boarded by the U.S. Coast Guard, Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, or the San Juan Sheriff ’s Office during your trip (we were). Plus, the regulations are really in your best interest, since the weather in the San Juans changes fast, the water is cold and help is sometimes hours away. But the preparation is worth it – even for those who have taken dozens of ferry trips to the San Juans, camping on island marine state parks and traveling by small boat reveals an entirely different side of these famous isles. You’ll immediately notice the lack of tourists,
even in summer, and feel your blood pressure drop since you don’t have to obsessively check your watch to ensure you make your ferry. As you explore the islands that aren’t on the ferry routes, you’ll see the San Juans as they were: full of quirky locals with deep ties to the land, sleepy roads and paths, overgrown fields and roadside stands selling one-of-a-kind island mementos on the honor system. Jones is actually one of 11 Washington Marine State Parks in the San Juans that offers camping, so it’s not the only option for a base camp. Some have docks, others don’t, but none take advance moorage or camping reservations. This allows campers the flexibility to move from island to island every few days and provides options in case your preferred spot is full. During the busy summer months, Friday and Saturday fill up at places like Jones, but we didn’t have a problem securing one of the coveted beachfront spots on a Sunday night in August. So next time you are looking for an exotic camping trip close to home, grab a boat and point it toward the San Juans.
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LEARN MORE ABOUT SAFE BOATING IN THE SAN JUANS Washington state boater safety: boat.wa.gov/BoatersCard.asp Boating equipment checklist: bit.ly/2ZgrHbj Northern Washington inland waters marine forecast: bit.ly/2LSBSjg Marine State Parks in the San Juans: parks.state.wa.us/844/san-juan-islands-region State Parks Moorage info: parks.state.wa.us/648/moorage
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Bula! A fijian welcome
W
hen it comes to island nations, with just around 300 islands, Fiji is low on the list. The country with the most islands, Sweden, has 221,800 islands. Hell, Canada has the fourth highest number with 52,455. Yet when it comes to lying on the beach for two weeks in February, Fiji is right at the top of everyone’s list. Located about 1,300 miles northeast of New Zealand’s North Island, its closest neighbors are Vanatua and New Caledonia. While getting there is expensive, once you’re there you can live as extravagantly or as cheaply as you like. For about $15 a night, hostels, dormitories and homestays are the low cost options while over the top resorts such as Laucala Island, owned by Austrian billionaire and co-founder of Red Bull Dietrich Mateschitz, can cost $25,000 a night and more. There are, of course, plenty of middle of the road options – it just depends on the size of your bank account. Once you’re in Fiji, traveling around the islands can be surprisingly inexpensive. Taxis and buses are your land options while seaplanes, ferries and big high-speed catamarans are some of your intra-island choices. The tourist infrastructure is well-developed, so you should have no worries on that score. Fijians are very welcoming and friendly. The two main ethnic groups are the indigenous Fijians who represent 57 percent and Indian at 38 percent of the total population of approximately 900,000, respectively. Once you get a gander at some of the native Fijian males, you’ll understand why they are such a powerhouse on the world rugby stage.
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STORY AND PHOTOS BY PAT GRUBB
Man, some of these guys are big. Their arms list of the top 10 places to scuba dive in the will put your stick figure legs to shame. It’s a world from an otherwise-trusted news organization might actually be an advertising good thing they’re friendly. venture that cost the participating resorts And not just friendly, but Fijians are personable as well. I was continually being $50,000 to be listed. surprised by how staff at the various hotels Want an idea of how beautiful Fiji is? and resorts would remember our names Stream movies such as Blue Lagoon (Brooke even after a momentary encounter days Shield), Return to Blue Lagoon (Milla Jobefore. Speaking with an American resort vavich) or Castaway (Tom Hanks). The first general manager one day, she attributed it Blue Lagoon is just a hoot to watch. to the Fijian lifestyle. “It’s all interpersonLanguage is not a concern – English is al relationships with the Fijians,” she said. spoken everywhere. You had better like “They leave work to go back to their village Australians – they’re the number one nawhere there may be at most one TV. Instead tionality visiting Fiji (42%), followed closely of watching that, they’ll visit each other and by Kiwis (23%) with Americans coming in play instruments and sing.” Perhaps they’re third (10%). The currency is the Fijian dolthe name-remembering versions of London lar, currently worth $0.45 U.S. cabdrivers whose need to memorize every The most popular destinations are Nadi street and lane in London in order to pass (where the international airport is), the The Knowledge test has resulted in an inCoral Coast, the Mamanuca Islands and crease in the size of the posterior hippocamDenarau Island. The capital city, Suva, gets pus, a part of the brain involved in mema bad rap for petty crime, which is a shame ory and spatial because it’s a pretawareness. ty little town and Lonely Planet, worth the visit. Rough Guides Coming up fast, and Moon Travtourist-wise, is the el all have travel remote Yasawa books on Fiji and Island chain. This are good places chain stretches to to start your trip the east from the planning. Apart north side of Viti from these guides, Levu and includes be wary of top the Blue Lagoon 10 lists and other and Mantaray recommendations Island, among by other media other places very Good advice, wherever you are. organizations. A much worth a
visit. While the Yasawas are known as the backpacker route, there are plenty of medium and high end options. One of them, the Mantaray Island Resort, straddles all three categories and was our favorite place in Fiji. The resort has lodging options ranging from dormitory living for $25 U.S. per night to high end bures on the beach with prices around $250 U.S. per night depending on the season. Like most of the Yasawa resorts, there is a compulsory meal plan that travelers need to include in their budget. Here it costs $60 U.S. per day and includes breakfast, lunch and dinner. Most of the islands have no stores, restaurants or eating options other than the resort; hence, the compulsory meal plans. One of the big draws of this resort is, unsurprisingly, manta rays. These graceful and gentle creatures with wingspans often exceeding 20 feet frequent the water and channels just off the shore of the resort. During the manta ray season May through October, the resort offers daily trips allowing people to snorkel with these huge fish and cousins to the shark. The waters around the resort are nutrient-rich and the manta rays use the currents to vacuum up the plankton which comprises their sole source of food. Not only are they not dangerous to humans, they do not even eat other fish. Despite knowing that, when you dive down to meet the manta rays as they circle up near the surface, you will feel like you are about to be hoovered into their wide maws. The photo accompanying this article was taken with a wide-angle GoPro – the manta rays were much closer than they appear.
MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2019 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM
The boat staff will go through the resort calling out that a manta ray trip is about to set off – be ready to leave at a moment’s notice. Go the first chance you get – they may not come back for a few days. Snorkeling is great pretty much everywhere in Fiji but the waters in front of the resort’s beach were absolutely teeming with fish life. Turtles, small sharks, moray eels, pipefish, clownfish and more are just 30 feet from shore. Take your underwater light for night snorkeling – it’s another world after the sun goes down. The dive shop has a wide variety of dives for divers, regardless of experience – wreck dives, shark dives, night dives – and offers introductory dives to basic certification to open water certificates and higher. They also teach free-diving. Throughout Fiji, divers need to bring their diving certificate and should have travel insurance that includes scuba diving coverage. It’s a good idea to bring your log book to show that you have recent diving experience; some resorts will insist on a pool checkup and refresher course otherwise. Other activities include champagne sunset inner tube floats, island and village tours, cooking classes, stand up paddle boarding and more. If you wander down the beach and around the corner over the volcanic stones, it won’t just be a beautiful, deserted beach you’ll see. Being on the windward side of the island, you’ll also see thousands of empty plastic water bottles that have been washed ashore. The resort has a program to collect this water-borne debris – do your part and pick some up. Resolve to purchase a reusable water bottle while you’re at it. Getting from island to island in the Yasawas is surprisingly simple and easy. If you’re pressed for time, there are seaplanes that can deposit you on the beach of your choice, a fast but more expensive option. Most travelers use the highspeed catamaran ferries that run the length of the island chain. These leave from and return to Denarau Marina (close to the airport and Nadi) and stop at all of the Yasawa resorts daily. Offering open air deck and inside airconditioned seats, these boats zoom from island to island, making brief stops for the resort boats to pick up and drop off guests and luggage, and do so while keeping right on schedule. They’re a good way to view the range of resorts available. If you’ve got the time and the finances, try to make it all the way to the end to the stunning Blue Lagoon. Most resorts in the area offer daytrips to swim in the limestone caves at Sawa-ilau. Watch out for the eel! If so inclined, you can also do good while you’re in the Yasawas. The Vinaka Fiji Volunteer program aims to improve the provision of basic needs to villages in the island chain. Education, sustainable communities, and marine research and conservation are the prime focus of the organization. Participants in the weeklong program stay on Barefoot Island Lodge and travel daily to the villages. The program’s costs vary depending upon the field of choice and include food and transportation. For more information, go to vinakafiji.org. This is just one of many volunteering opportunities in Fiji; check out volunteerworld.com and search for Fiji. Expect to be sung on and off every resort you visit. Also expect to have tears in your eyes for every farewell!
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BY PAT GRUBB
GOOD STUFF GUIDE
GRAYL GEOPRESS PURIFIET Fill, press, drink. This portable purifier makes 24 oz of safe, clean water no matter where you are. It filters out pathogens, pesticides, chemicals, heavy metals and even microplastics. $89.95
LIFALOFT INSULATED FLANNEL SHIRT JACKET
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The classic flannel shirt, only better. Lightweight Lifaloft keeps you warmer longer. $160
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TERN GSD S10 Stefan from Bellingham’s Seattle Electric Bike says the Tern GSD is the perfect, do everything bike for Bellingham. Haul, carry kids, go long range and power up the hills on this superhandling bike that is the same length as a standard bike. $3,999
seattleelectricbike.net
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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2019 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM
Whistler On a Budget BY LISA PULSIFER
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histler is a high end, world-class ski resort, but it doesn’t have to put a dent in your wallet. The picture-perfect, international destination is much more than gondolas and lifts – the whole municipality spans over seven and a half miles in a lush valley with five lakes, miles of hiking trails and singletrack, breweries, hostels and more. In autumn, the town of Whistler quiets down and there are some great deals to be found. Take advantage of the season and plan an inexpensive shoulder-season trip to Whistler.
STAY
If you’re looking for a modern, clean and comfortable place to stay, check out the HI Whistler hostel. Located near the south end of Whistler, this large hostel was a part of Whistler’s Olympic Village in 2010. It offers four-person dorms as well as single rooms and it has a large communal kitchen, on-site cafe and welcoming gathering spaces. Hoping for something with a bit more charm? Spend a couple nights at the Whistler Lodge Hostel. This 42-bed historic hostel was originally built and managed by the University of British Columbia’s Varsity Outdoor Club. Recently updated and under new management, the hostel offers small dorms and private three bedroom suites. Meet your fellow hostellers as you enjoy the lounge and kitchen, the woodsy deck or the sauna. If you’d prefer to be close to all the action, reserve a bed at the new Pangea Pod Hotel. This unique boutique hotel is located in the heart of Whistler Village, steps from shops, restaurants, bars and the Whistler gondola. All of the “pods” – think small, bed-sized rooms – have a double bed and most of the amenities you’d expect in a regular hotel room. It’s like an upscale hostel with more privacy. Pangea also has a shared living room, gear storage and rooftop patio.
EAT
Whistler is home to some world-class restaurants featuring creative flavors and ingredients. On weekdays in the shoulder season many of the restaurants in Whistler Village offer a three-course set price meal. Stay away from the wine list and you can enjoy a fine
dining experience for under $50. For cheaper eats in the Village visit El Furniture Warehouse where, every tasty food item on the menu is amazingly priced at $5.95 (Canadian). The southern neighborhood of Function Junction is home to a couple of casual breakfast and lunch cafes, as well as the location of two award-winning craft breweries. Another inexpensive option is to pick up some ready-made meals from one of the handful of grocery markets sprinkled throughout Whistler. For the ultimate low-cost meals, book a room in a hostel or rental unit that has a kitchen so that you can meal plan. Bring pre-packaged foods from home, but wait to buy produce, fresh dairy or meat until you’re in Whistler.
PLAY
Yes, Whistler’s about skiing, but once the snow’s melted the gondolas continue to run, whisking passengers to the peaks of both Blackcomb and Whistler mountains. This alpine experience is worth the price of admission. Pre-purchase your one- or two-day ticket online before traveling to Whistler to get the best deal. The summer gondola ticket gives you access to three gondolas and two chairlifts, including a ride on the record breaking Peak-2-Peak Gondola, which connects the two mountains. On both peaks you’ll find a lodge, a chairlift to the summit and a network of alpine hiking trails. For those looking for some two-wheeled fun, you can hang your bike on a chairlift and challenge the downhill trails from high on Whistler Mountain. But if you want to save some cash, head out onto the miles of single track in and around the Whistler Valley. You can cruise the network of trails around Lost Lake, ride along the Cheakamus River or challenge yourself to a climb into the high alpine. Most of the bike trails are hiker friendly too, so be courteous to other users. Ready to chill? Bring a picnic to the shores of one of the five lakes in the valley and hang out at a picnic table in a pleasant beach park. Canoe and stand up paddleboard rentals are available at Alta Lake and Green Lake or you could pack along a pool float from home. These two lakes also have some of the best views of the surrounding mountains.
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Redefining the Cabin in the Woods
From Mountain Chalets to Waterfront Lodges, Luxury Getaways offers overnight accommodations in newly built vacation rentals located in the heart of the Mt. Baker Recreational area.
The two Shuksans. Photo by Andrew Grubb
www.stayatmtbaker .com
9989 Mt. Baker Highway • Glacier, WA
Noww SSeeNrrvovin ing
Fresh Baked Goods BrB&earkfeasatkBufarritoss,t Strictly Organic Coffee & Espresso ASoupllL&uDQunaiccheyh Behind Milano’s Restaurant • Open everyday at 7:30 am Behind Milano’s Restaurant • Open everyday at 7:30 am
CHAIR 9
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360.398.9590
The Knotty Lodge - GLACIER, WA
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10459 Mt. Baker Hwy Glacier, WA
for schedule CATERING for all your party needs.
View Pictures & Book online at
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360/599-2511 www.Chair9.com
Glacier’s Only Hotel Located next to Chair 9 A great place to rest your head after your mountain adventure!
360/599-9944
Ask about pet-friendly rooms 46
www.bluetlodge.com
A small town cozy refuge on the way to your next adventure in Deming, WA! To learn more or book your stay, visit: https://bit.ly/2VJFsgD
MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2019 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM
AvAlAnche courses
Sunday, September 8th
THIS COURSE COULD SAVE YOUR LIFE!
Avalanche Courses Mt. Baker & Bellingham
3-day programs on weekends Dec-Feb AIARE Levels 1 & 2
23 MILE CLIMB UP HIGHWAY 542
Backcountry Ski & Splitboard
Ascend 4,098 feet from Chair 9 in Glacier to Artist’s Point on Mt. Baker. Riders depart at 7 am, 8 am, and 8:30 am.
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• Business Directory
Race is located in a National Forest and requires a $5 car pass at Artist Point. TITLE SPONSOR
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Events and Useful Contacts PICK UP YOUR FREE COPY at Glacier Public Service Center and the following businesses and visitor centers or call Mount Baker Experience at 360-332-1777. ACME
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Baker Bear Grocery Coldwell Banker Bain/ Bethnie Morrison John L. Scott/Marty Kutschbach Windermere/Julie Brown
Teams of 5-10 runners relay to 10 different breweries in Bellingham over a 30 mile course!
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Hiking near Artist Point. Photo by Oliver Lazenby
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Mount Baker
e perience MAGAZINE
www.MountBakerExperience.com
A special publication of The Northern Light Newspaper
Everson/Nooksack Chamber of Commerce Good to Go Meat Pies Herb Niemann’s Steak & Schnitzel House Kelley Insurance
KENDALL
Paradise Market
Crossroads Grocery & Video Mt. Baker Chamber of Commerce & Visitor Center Mt. Baker Lodging Green Stop
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Bringing you Ski to Sea and the Tour de Whatcom Whatcom Events is a non-profit 501(c)(4) and our events support local charities.
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Photo: Cam McLeod, Almader, Matt Hardy, Rob Kingwill Photo: Cam McLeod, Zach Zach Almader, Matt Hardy, Rob Kingwill
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E N U M C L AW 1 1 /5 & 6 E N U M C L AW 1 1 /5 & 6 O LY M P I A 1 1 /7 O LY M P I A 1 1 /7 TACO M A 1 1 /8 TACO M A 1 1 /8 B E L L I N G H A M 1 1 /9 B E L L I N G H A M 1 1 /9 B E L L E V U E 11/15&16 B E L L E V U E 11/15&16 T I C K E TS O N SA L E B R E M E RTO N 1 1 /2 0 TIC ET TS OBNE R SA24 L E! B R E M E RTO N 1 1 /2 0 SK EP EM E V E R E T T 1 1 /2 1 S E P T E M B E R 24 ! E V E R E T T 1 1 /2 1 WA R R E N M I L L E R . C O M S E AT T L E 1 1 /2 2 & 2 3 WA R R E N M I L L E R . C O M S E AT T L E 1 1 /2 2 & 2 3 K I R K L A N D 1 1 /2 6 K I R K L A N D 1 1 /2 6 MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2019 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM