Mount Baker Experience, Fall 2018

FALL 2018

ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Galbraith Preserved Riding the 7 Summits Trail Day Hikes in bc

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2 MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

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Our Thousand Trails Camping Pass is offered by MHC Thousand Trails Limited Partnership, Two North Riverside Plaza, Suite 800, Chicago, IL 60606. This advertising is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of resort campground memberships. This document has been filed with the Department of Licensing, State of Washington as required by Washington Law. Value, quality or conditions stated and performance on promises are the responsibility of the operator, not the Department. The filing does not mean the Department has approved the merits or qualifications of any registration, advertising, or any gift or item of value as part of any promotional plan.

Subject to availability. Reservations required. Offer valid on new reservations only. Offer valid on standard RV sites, cabins, yurts and tent sites only. Offer excludes Tiny Houses at Mt. Hood and Leavenworth locations. Stays 30 days or less are subject to $4 per day resort fee. Reservation of 1 night minimum and 6 nights maximum required. Rates do not include taxes. Book by April 1, 2019. Offer valid for stays September 1, 2018 through April 15, 2019. Amenities vary by resort.

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5

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE PUBLISHERS Patrick Grubb and Louise Mugar

CONTRIBUTORS

PUBLICATION DESIGN Doug De Visser COPY EDITOR Kara Spencer ADVERTISING DESIGN Ruth Lauman • Doug De Visser Dailynne Reid ADVERTISING SALES Catherine Darkenwald • Janet McCall Molly Ernst • Judy Fjellman CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE: Anne Cleary, Beau Gaughran, Jasper Gibson, Stephen Hui, Jason Hummel, Paul Kelly, Peter Lillesve, Jason D. Martin, Sean McCall, Audra Lee Mercille, Nora Morrison, Jefferson Morriss, Marcus Paladino, Alex Powell, Gabe Rogel, Mathew Roland, Skye Schillhammer, Matthew Tangeman, Ben Whitney, Luca Williams, Cadin Yeckley

An always-say-yes attitude and a passion for storytelling through media brought Anne to Bellingham. She has employed filmmaking and photography to document and share adventure.

BeauGAUGHRAN Beau Gaughran is a Bellingham-based freelance photographer from Maine. He moved here for the incredible whitewater, year-round splitboarding and mountain playgrounds where he practices his craft.

stephenHUI Stephen Hui is the author of 105 Hikes In and Around Southwestern British Columbia, an all-new guide from Greystone Books. Visit 105hikes.com.

EMAIL: info@mountbakerexperience.com WEB: www.mountbakerexperience.com FACEBOOK: facebook.com/mtbakerexperience TWITTER: twitter.com/MB_Experience INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/mtbakerexp If you can see Mt. Baker, you’re part of the experience. Mount Baker Experience is an outdoor recreation guide for and about the Mt. Baker region, distributed from Seattle to Vancouver, B.C. and published by Point Roberts Press, Inc. Locally owned, the company also publishes The Northern Light, All Point Bulletin, Pacific Coast Weddings, Waterside and area maps.

Vol. XXXII, No. 3. Printed in Canada. ©2018 POINT ROBERTS PRESS 225 Marine Drive, Blaine, WA 98230 TEL: 360/332-1777 NEXT ISSUE Winter 2019 • Out mid November 2018 Ad reservation deadline: October 12 ON THE COVER Skye Schillhammer floats over Mt. Baker.

Photo by Skye Schillhammer and Cadin Yeckley.

FALL 2018

jasonHUMMEL Jason is an outdoor photographer from Washington who has documented numerous first descents in the North Cascades.

Alpinestateofmind.com.

paulKELLY Paul is a former U.S. Navy photographer, Brooks Institute alumni, and Eddie Adams Workshop grad. He is a New Hampshire native who shoots mountain biking, snowboarding, and outdoor lifestyle.

peterLILLESVE Peter is a native Minnesotan who traded the Land of 10,000 Lakes for a land with 10,000 peaks (or so). He is a licensed professional engineer and lives in Bellingham with his wife and their crazy coonhound.

jasonMARTIN Jason is a mountain guide, general manager at American Alpine Institute and a widely published outdoor writer. He lives in Bellingham with his wife and two young children.

ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

audra leeMERCILLE

Galbraith Preserved Riding the 7 Summits Trail Day Hikes in bc

6

noraMORRISON Photographer Nora Morrison grew up where the mountains meet the sea in Tofino, on the west coast of Vancouver Island.

AnneCLEARY

EDITOR Oliver Lazenby

MBE Summer 2018

Audra Lee Mercille is a Pacific Northwest-based freelance adventurer. She found photography as a way to display her love and gratitude for the mountains and landscapes that inspire her.

jeffersonMORRISS Jefferson Morriss is a Sequim-based photographer. After relocating to Washington state in 2001 from the mean streets of Bismarck, North Dakota, he picked up his first camera and never looked back.

marcusPALADINO Marcus Paladino is a surf and outdoor photographer living in Tofino, BC. He strives to have simple descriptions like ‘surf shot’ or ‘nature photo’ fall short. That’s when his work becomes art.

alexPOWELL Alex grew up in Bellingham and recently graduated from WWU with a degree in visual journalism. He’s a freelance photojournalist who loves kayaking, backpacking and capturing people in their element.

gabeROGEL Gabe Rogel is an artist and a bright and goofy nut who ends up entertaining the crews he travels with. His photos are often successful because his subjects are laughing at him. Or with him. No one is ever sure.

skyeSCHILLHAMMER Skye Schillhammer is a rider, photographer and cinematographer for Transition Bikes based out of Bellingham, WA. When he’s not on assignment or on a bike, he’s deep in the woods building trail and soaking in the PNW.

matthewTANGEMAN Matthew is a Bellingham-based adventure photographer with a passion for deep powder, alpine granite and not making it back to the trailhead until way after dark. matthewtangeman.myportfolio.com.

benWHITNEY Inspired by the allure of the North Cascades, Ben moved to Bellingham from Vermont. He writes about people, place and community, and is excited to contribute to the creative wellspring that surrounds the alpine.

lucaWILLIAMS Luca is a Certified Rolfer in Glacier, WA. She helps snowboarders, skiers, and other outdoor enthusiasts to get aligned and out of pain. Website: lucasrolfing.com blog: movingwithgravity.wordpress.com.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

Fall 2018

Publisher’s NOTE

by Pat Grubb

T

he new normal? As I write this, I am looking out my window in Point Roberts across Boundary Bay to White Rock and Blaine, about 12 or so miles away as the seagull flies. I can’t see them; in fact, visibility seems to be about a halfmile due to the smoke and haze from forest fires. The sun is a red, Mars-like orb and the temperature is probably 6 or 7 degrees below normal. There are nearly 600 fires in BC while in the States, there are 53 large uncontained fires being fought. Reportedly, smoke from the fires has drifted across all 48 lower states and public health agencies have issued multiple health warnings for vulnerable members of the population.

This is the second year in a row that we have experienced these conditions. For those of us who live for the summer (when we’re not living for the winter), to lose half the summer to smoky skies is hard to bear. Who knows what the toll will eventually be to our health, our economy, our recreational pursuits, our whatever. It is obvious that a new approach to forest management is required; what’s not obvious is what that will be. Hitting fires faster and harder might help but apparently we have fewer firebombing aircraft and helicopters than we did 10 years ago. That’s hardly the direction we should be going in.

The good news is, El Supremo [sounds of obligatory bowing and scraping] has declared that global warming is a hoax. That’s a relief.

Regardless, we should consider what we can do individually to lessen our impact on the environment. Like the Seattle couple mentioned in this issue’s story about e-bikes who are using their bikes in lieu of driving an automobile – they won’t be putting out any forest fires but they won’t be pumping as much carbon into the atmosphere.

Talking about this issue, you’ve got a few treats ahead of you. There are stories about a Baker descent by bicycle, riding Rossland’s Seven Summits trail, the upcoming Mt. Baker Hill Climb, saving Galbraith Mountain, three easy BC hikes and more. And, of course, another multi-page spread featuring the area’s best photographers. While you’re enjoying this issue, pray for rain in the forests and wind to blow the smoke away.

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Making peace with weekend-warriorhood

ON ROSSLAND, BC’S SEVEN SUMMITS TRAIL

28 20

10

28

POSTCARD

11 QUESTIONS

HIKING GUIDE

From Whidbey Island’s Kettles Trails

With Kona pro Hannah Bergemann

3 day hikes near Vancouver

IT OUT 12 STRETCH Chest openers for backpackers

22 GALLERY Take nothing but photos

WHATCOM TRAILS 43 LAKE New trails show vast potential

HONORS CCC WORK 30 THE NO. 2 RULE 18 STATUE Depression-era work crews

Pack it all out to keep

get their due

34

SHOT 44 PARTING Jason Hummel’s glacier project

the backcountry permit free

CLIMB 33 HILL Reviving the race to Artist Point

40

36 E-BIKES Supercharge your bicycle habit

AND EAT 38 STAY Where to find dining and lodging

39 EVENTS What to do while the seasons turn

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VENDOVI ISLAND Seclusion in the San Juans

TRAILS SAVED 42 GALBRAITH B’ham secures permanent

easements

CAR-FREE SKI

A pedal approach to skiing Baker FALL 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

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2018 BOAT WINTERIZATION

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We have everything you need to get your boat ready for a relaxing winter and an easy jump start next spring!

BOAT WINTERIZATION STEPS: 1 Check all lines/hoses - fuel,

6 Suck antifreeze through bilge

2 Add Fuel Stabilizer to fuel

7 Change gear lube using proper

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4 Spray Sierra Fogging Oil in

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P O S TC A R D S

e highways th m o r f ts r o Rep nds and hinterla

’s d n a l s I y e Whidb ystem lS i a r T s e l t t Ke g for all seasons

Somethin

F R O M TH E L AN D W H ID B E Y IS B B IC YC L E C L U

T

he Kettles Trail System is a jewel stationed between Oak Harbor and Coupeville on Whidbey Island. The area gets its name from a geologic feature that shapes much of central Whidbey Island; kettles are depressions formed by melting blocks of ice that broke free from a glacier. At the Kettles Trails, the kettles form deep, round indentations and sharp valleys in rapid succession, making for uniquely hilly terrain.

The trail system spans Island County’s Kettles Trails area and adjoining Fort Ebey State Park, an approximately 250-acre area with more than 30 miles of challenging but rewarding trails.

The well-loved trail network connects to neighborhoods and scenic overlooks and is a perfect place to ride, run or bike. While most of the trails are multi-use – aside from a few miles of hiker-only trail with stunning water views along a bluff – the mix of technical turns and

flow make them perfect for mountain bikers.

Whidbey Island’s well-draining soil and location in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains means the trails stay drier than others in western Washington during the winter. Proximity to the water gives the area a mild climate in the summer, making the area ideal yearround.

The trail system hosts several mountain bike events in the spring, including an organized ride called Mussels in the Kettles, and a race called Cookin’ in the Kettles, part of the West Side Mountain Bike Series. Secret gardens of rhododendrons dot the area, blooming from March to July, with whites, pinks and reds bursting like fireworks, adding appeal to the area in spring.

Fall offers a quieter time to check out the Kettles. The Whidbey Island Bicycle Club, which maintains the trails, offers weekly group rides for those who want to explore the network with locals.

Learn more at whidbeyislandbicycleclub.com. Pick up a map outside the park entrance gate or get one online: islandcountywa.gov/PublicWorks/Parks/Pages/kettles-trails.aspx For more mountain biking in the area, check out the Putney Woods and Saratoga Woods trail systems on the south end of the island.

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• Hiking and Walking trails across Ebey's Landing National Historic Reserve • Kayaking in Penn Cove • Bicycling Trails through the Kettles • Cruise Penn Cove on the historic Schooner SUVA • 5k Run's and Marathons in February, August and December (Fort Ebey Kettles Trail Run, Race The Reserve Marathon and Jingle Trail Run) • Tour de Whidbey bicycle tour • Enjoy Race Week Yacht races from the Wharf in Coupeville • Stroll our historic and unique waterfront community • Stroll the beach along Ebey's Landing and soak up the views • Camping in Fort Casey and Fort Ebey State Parks • Enjoy a Ferry ride from Keystone Harbor to Port Townsend • Whidbey Island Kite Festival • Enjoy the “Haunting of Coupeville” activities throughout October

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FALL 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

11

Cactus stretch for backpackers Open your chest after carrying a load

By Luca Williams

A

s I plan my annual backpack trip, I think about what lured me to backpacking in the first place. Yes, I loved planning trips and the beauty that I saw every step of the way. I loved the friendships that solidified after miles of walking and talking. But most of all I loved the simplicity. An experienced backpacker carries only the most essential items for food, water and a dry, warm place to sleep and leaves everything else behind (except maybe an amazing novel, wine and chocolate). But now backpacking feels so complicated and I keep wondering why.

I haven’t been out on a trail for more than an overnight in years.

Life got more complicated with C-sections, kids (all-consuming football practice and games), sickness, aging parents, house projects, work, and many other unpredictable events. Or maybe these are all excuses and my head just got out of the game? Regardless, I found that every year since 2010, I backpacked less and less until an integral part of my life was on the back burner.

In the last couple of years, I decided to contain the chaos and simplify my life. Just as in backpacking, I decided to carry only the essential items and ditch the ones that were just too heavy – physically and mentally. As I have crossed hobbies, businesses and an extra house off my list, my pack got lighter and my chest felt freer.

Another of my other hobbies that took the back burner during those chaotic years was yoga. As my life got busier, finding time for an hour-long yoga session stopped feeling attainable. Fortunately, stretching and yoga are so simple they require no gear at all. All you need is a 3-by-7-foot area and a minute here and there.

I started thinking about wild animals and the way they stretch; cougars and bears don't stretch for an hour straight, they stretch all through the day. Stretching is part of their lives and their routine.

When they wake up they stretch, when they play with their cubs they stretch, after they eat they stretch. Identifying this helped me simplify stretching in a way that makes it more engrained in my life. At times of injury or stress I find myself stretching more, but ordinarily my stretching routine is simple and peppered throughout my day so that I can feel limber and get everything else done on my list.

Stretching through the day helps us open our chests, which have collapsed from texting, driving and working at computers. I wish

Photo by Mathew Roland.

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FREE EVENT Fundraiser for KKSC*

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DROP OFF EQUIPMENT Thursday, October 18 4-9 pm

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THE SALE Friday, October 19 4-9:30 pm

Buy New & Used Gear

THE SALE Saturday, October 20 9 am-2 pm

Equipment & Clothing for Adults & Kids

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

I would have known about stretching my chest and arms when I was backpacking for work as a wilderness ranger and trail crew worker. It would have saved me from years of neck pain and finger numbness.

One of the most useful stretches for backpackers is the cactus stretch. Try it in your daily life or during a backpacking trip. After you ditch your pack for a break, walk around a little and do some simple backwards arm circles and shoulder rolls. After you are loosened up a little, stand with your core engaged by bringing your belly to your spine. Gently contract your upper abdominal muscles to pull the front of your rib cage downward and inward, which lengthens and straightens your lower back. Do this movement while exhaling and feel how your deeper abdominal muscles subtly draw together. From this gentle core engagement, bring your arms up into a cactus position (see photo).

For some of you, after years at a desk, or a shoulder or arm injury, this may be difficult, but do your best. Do not let go of that core, but keep breathing out your nose. By doing cactus stretches, you stretch your chest while “knitting” your shoulder blades back together. If the stretch feels too difficult, come in and out of it, holding it for 3-5 seconds.

Otherwise, hold it for 15 seconds at a time and repeat three times. It is crucial that you have your core engaged lightly for this stretch to be effective. If you feel that you are arching your back, start over and engage your core again. You should not be arching your back in order to get your arms up.

I am hoping that this year’s backpacking trip will help me identify the essentials of my present life so that I can simplify, simplify, simplify, and get rid of the excess baggage that weighs me down, allowing me to breathe easier and really enjoy the important things.

Be ready for your next adventure

Primary Care • Well Exams Immunizations • Sports Medicine

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FALL 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

13

Making Peace with

Weekend-Warriorhood Rossland, BC’s Seven Summits trail, a carrot to the workweek’s stick

By Benjamin Whitney • Photos by Jasper Gibson

The author chases Haleahy Craven down a ridge on the Seven Summits trail.

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

I

f I learned anything worthwhile in college, I learned to juggle and grind. Late nights and early mornings, due dates and mountain missions; these were the battles I waged between obligation and obsession. More than once it looked like I’d drop the ball, but with a smirking smile I crossed the stage to shake the Dean’s hand.

I was free.

Like many of my literary heroes, I set off westbound on Interstate 80 to nowhere in particular. Just like the beatniks I revered, I’d drive all night to new places hoping, maybe, to see an approving Kerouac nodding from the rearview mirror.

But in my time tramping around I never excelled at any discipline. I was too hard for the bourgeois #vanlife and too soft for a competent alpinist; too broke to write magazine articles in coffee shops and too self-aware for a raging drunk.

More so, I grew tired of being a passerby. I craved roots and community. After a few transient years, my dog-eared and tattered copy of On The Road was ready for the bookshelf.

I never imagined being a working-for-the-weekend kind of guy but if life has any noble truths, compromise must be among them. Growing roots means coughing up money for the water bill and mowing the lawn. Community means potlucks and town nights. This all requires a steady paycheck.

Likewise, my love affair with trail riding sparked as a function of compromise. Weekend bike missions became the carrot to the stick that was my workweek. I’d scour the internet for trails near, nearish and not near at all.

“Hales,” I said, eyes fixed on my screen, “Have you heard of the Seven Summits?”

Shaking her head, Haleahy responded knowingly, “How far away is this one?”

“It’s definitely a send,” I admitted. “But it looks absolutely worth it.”

British Columbia’s Kootenay region has a long history of strange affairs. Notoriously, the area was a landing zone for American draft dodgers during the Vietnam War, many of whom took to farming the area’s hottest cash crop – cannabis. And to complete the hippy triad, the region’s deep-seated ski tradition has given its main road a popular nickname: The Powder Highway.

But lately it is the local bike crazies who are staking a claim as the most vocal group in the region. Organizations like the Kootenay Columbia Trails Society have been chipping away at extensive networks of dirt to satiate a growing twowheeled crowd and the crown jewel of all this development is the Seven Summits trail.

Completed in 2004 and stamped as an IMBA Epic shortly after, Seven Summits traverses above the sleepy ski town of Rossland across some 20 miles of alpine single-track. A big climb followed by a bigger descent and enough ups and downs to keep the mountaineer in me reeling.

It takes little investigation before I’m convinced and shoot out a text: Heading to Rossland, BC this weekend to ride bikes. Bit of a drive. Any takers? Haleahy, a puritan yes-woman, takes little convincing and our Leavenworth-based bud-

dy, Jasper, was up for the mission too. Just like that, the team assembled, the weekend carrot ready for harvest.

There’s something about an adventure on the horizon that makes the week fly. Father time slapped the workweek in the ass as thoughts of rogue camping and endless bike trails dangled in my mind. Quitting time on Friday arrived startlingly fast and we hit the road.

I think my pickup truck hums a sweeter tune twisting along mountain roads. Haleahy sings out of key as we weave through North Cascade mountain passes crawling eastward across the map with purpose. Our drive passes without incident all the way to Rossland, although a healthy population of seemingly suicidal road-crossing deer ensures an engaging drive.

It’s midnight when we arrive. Jasper is sitting on his tailgate boiling water with his Jetboil and chatting with locals.

A Led Zeppelin cover band drones from the bar across the street. We laugh at the subtle irony that a band named for an exploded blimp plays inside The Flying Steamshovel pub.

Legend has it that near the turn of the 20th century a local man designed a steam-powered helicopter/plane designed to retrieve gold from the surrounding hills where Seven Summits sits now. Made with iron, brass and piano wire, among other materials, the Steamshovel’s sole flight ended in failure. We take care not to meet a similar fate in Rossland.

“Let’s be on trail for sunrise,” Jasper suggests. “It’s the best light.”

“Jasper,” I say, “It’s after midnight and we have at least an

hour to the trailhead.”

“We drove all the way out here,” Jasper says. “Let’s make the most of it.”

He’s right. Weekend missions prioritize expediency. Little sleep and big ideas require buckets of stoke. I shrug, “Let’s decide when we get to the trailhead.”

We climb a steep dirt road to Seven Summits’ alternate finish at Sheep Creek trailhead. I open my window letting the wet, cool air brush my cheek as we drive. In a foreign zone with a long day ahead we make the group decision to camp at Sheep Creek. Sleep comes easy.

Sometime around dawn, a loud click-clack echoes outside our tent. Expecting a rancher to give us hell for camping illegally, I peek outside. Though there’s no rider to be seen, three large mares lope along the road in foggy morning light.

“Hales,” I whisper, “don’t move. We’ll spook the horses.”

Sitting up and crinkling her inflatable sleeping pad in the process, Haleahy startles the mare nearest our tent.

The headline “American Couple Stomped to Death” flashes in my mind as the beast breaks stride and closes in on our nylon home before opting against a standoff with smelly Americans.

The alarm-by-horse leaves us fully roused. We laugh off our near misfortune with Jasper, who slept safely cocooned in his truck bed, over cowboy coffee and instant oats. We retrace our path to Rossland and onwards to Nancy Greene Summit where our ride begins.

There’s something satisfying about simply arriving. We lube our chains and exchange high fives. But a demoralizing and technical 2,000-foot climb quickly tempers our arrival stoke. We grind upwards in steep, rooty bursts punctuated by a smooth yet substantive grade. Exchanging leads, we test our grit and balance at every turn. There is a masochism unique to mountain bike climbing; unlike mountaineering, any stop on a bike climb means dismounting and dismounting is defeat.

“I hope the whole trail’s not like this,” Jasper says, sweat

16

dripping from his brow.

“What goes up, must come down,” Haleahy laughs, pedaling by us.

It takes awhile but we find our rhythm. The long climb through BC forest breaks and we arrive at a sign that says: “Seven Summits’ Highest Point.” Our joy is unequivocal.

Haleahy dances on a rock outcrop overlooking Rossland and Jasper takes photographs. Clouds build in the distance, but we focus only on the undulating ridge that marks our path ahead.

The ridge trail is developed just enough to inspire confidence, yet rough enough to encourage trepidation. Flowing single-track breaks for punchy climbs to the next summit. Clouds rise up the ridge, enclosing us in mist.

“This weather’s making me anxious,” I say. “We should talk through our options.” Trailforks, an online trail database critical to the weekend warrior toolkit, identifies two evacuation points in the next four miles and then none until our final descent.

“Let’s keep going,” Haleahy says. “It looks tame enough.”

But the quickening wind makes me think otherwise. We choose to bypass our first exit option and take a poll at the next. A drizzle chills our ride, making me wonder if I’ve layered appropriately.

When we reach our second exit, I consider the tough call to bail. We’ve traveled far for this ride, yet thoughts of ale and warm food flood my mind. Jasper, an alpine climber with a hardline view on bad weather, pushes us on. “The trail is mostly downhill from here,” he says, “I bet we’ll find a fire road ahead if things really turn up.” We ride on.

The trail passes Red Mountain Resort, an old school ski area along the Powder Highway first tracked by Scandinavian gold miners in the late 1800s. This section of trail is the most built up, but the man-made berms prove challenging for cold brake fingers. I am fatigued and wonder if the long drive has caught up with me.

There’s no better high than objective hazard complying with human will. During our next climb, the rain gives

way to mist and mist to blue sky. Our group stoke is off the charts. Haleahy breaks out a hefty charcuterie spread at the top while I take off my damp synthetics to dry. British Columbia dazzles us with layers of blue light.

Spirits lifted, we eagerly guide our bikes through awkward talus fields to a long, meandering descent in alpine meadows. Jasper is delighted and marvels at the light that settles across the range. Haleahy pumps her fork through flowing turns amid tall golden grasses. The mountains glow in the evening light around us and before long we arrive at the intersection for the Dewdney and Sheep Creek trails. These downhill trails mark the traverse’s conclusion.

We dip into the Sheep Creek trail, which provides an arm-pumping finish to the long day. Sections of overgrown single-track break for steep, rowdy gravel road. Jasper, having lost his front brakes some time ago, shepherds his bike expertly downslope. I, smiling ear-to-ear, ride the line between keeping it together and losing control.

And at just the point that my arms may have left their sockets entirely, I skid onto a road sighting my pickup parked down the way. I let out a celebratory whoop to Jasper and Haleahy behind me, making haste to our cooler where three well deserved ales lie in wait. Mission complete.

Sundays are a mixed bag for the weekend warrior. We run morning shuttles on Rossland’s town trails before facing the road west, to-do lists filtering back into our minds.

But the day waned and we knew it was time to go. Part of me yearned for the beatnik freedom of a previous life, a life that Jasper now lives. We exchange hugs as Jasper points his pickup towards Montana embarking on another adventure. The workweek grind looms larger in my mind.

Our drive offers ample time for reflection. Seven Summits lived up to its hype and somehow we pulled off our weekend assault without so much as a flat tire let alone lightning strike or death-by-horse.

A warmness sets in my chest and I wonder: What will next weekend bring?

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statue dedicated in June at the Glacier Public Service Center honors the work of Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) workers in the Mt. Baker Ranger District.

CCC workers built the Glacier Public Service Center and many other buildings, roads and trails in the ranger district – and throughout the U.S. – in the 1930s.

President Franklin Roosevelt created the CCC in April 1933 to alleviate unemployment during the Great Depression. At the time, 25 percent of men ages 16 to 30 were unemployed. The CCC program gave $25 a month to enrollees’ families, while the enrollees received $5 a month,

in addition to room and board and training in a variety of skills.

By July 1933, about 200 CCC men were at work in the Mt. Baker Ranger District, and thousands were employed in every state in the country. The projects the CCC built in the district between 1933 and 1942, when the program was discontinued to fund World War II, include the following: • Hannegan Pass Road • Twin Lakes Road • Silver Fir Campground • Douglas Fir Campground • Telephone lines in the area

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• Glacier Public Service Center • Austin Pass Warming Hut, above Heather Meadows “Without the CCC, we wouldn’t have the parks we have.

The boys changed everything,” said Janet Oakley, a local author who worked to bring the statue to Glacier, along with local historian Mike Impero.

Impero and Oakley worked with CCC Legacy, a national nonprofit that aims to bring awareness to the CCC’s work.

The group has installed statues all over the country. Glacier’s statue is the 72nd in the U.S. and the second in Washington state; the other one is at Deception Pass State Park, on Whidbey Island.

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11 Questions Kona bikes pro Hannah Bergemann Photos and interview by Beau Gaughran

B

ellingham mountain bike racer Hannah Bergemann graduated from the expert to pro category last year and she’s been placing near the top at Cascadia Dirt Cup enduro races ever since, all while juggling school and a job at the Kona Bike Shop. The 21-year-old up-and-comer talks about her career, the women’s mountain bike scene and finishing on the podium in pro races a few years after getting started on a handme-down bike from her dad.

Mount Baker Experience: How did you get into mountain biking?

Hannah Bergemann: I grew up biking with my dad in Hood River, Oregon, and got into mountain biking as a junior in high school when he gave me his old full suspension bike. I was hooked after a few rides and at the end of that summer we did an enduro race together in Ashland, Oregon.

When I moved up to Bellingham for school in 2015, I became even more involved in the mountain bike community and started working and riding bikes for Kona shortly after.

MBE: What’s a typical day like for you?

HB: On a typical day I'll get up around 5:30 a.m. and head to Terrain Gym or go out for a bike ride. After that, during the school year, I'll head to school for the day and then work at the Kona Bike Shop in the afternoon. In the summer, I work full time at Kona fixing bikes, selling bikes, and helping with daily bike shop duties. After work, sometimes another bike ride is in the cards or in the school year I'll be studying into the evening.

On days off, I like to ride my bike up in Canada with friends, or I'll be traveling for races somewhere in the Pacific Northwest.

MBE: How has working at Kona influenced your riding?

HB: Since I started working in the shop, I've become more active in our mountain bike community. I’ve been able to ride and race some amazing bikes and I’ve learned how to fix and maintain my bikes to keep them running smooth.

The Kona crew has always been and continues to be very supportive of me as a rider and racer and has given me an

amazing platform to progress my riding and share my passion for bikes.

MBE: Do you have a favorite race from this year so far?

HB: The Chuckanut and Post Canyon enduros were so much fun, being my two “home” races. I think my favorite was the Silver Mountain Enduro in Kellogg, Idaho. It was the biggest race I’ve done so far with 9,000 feet of climbing and more than 16,000 feet of descending over two days, and I surprised myself with a second place finish in a pretty large field of pro ladies.

MBE: Who do you like to ride with and why?

HB: One of my favorite things about Bellingham is the incredible mountain bike community. There is never a shortage of amazing people to ride with. People who will push the limits on what you think is possible on mountain bikes and who will push you to progress and try new things. I love riding with all the lady rippers in the area and the other gals on the Kona Supremes.

MBE: What’s the Kona Supremes?

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HB: The Kona Supremes is a women's ambassador team with Kona that was the brainchild of my friend Amanda Bryan. We started the team almost two years ago, bringing on some local ladies that we rode with and who wanted to be more involved in the community. The first summer, we all raced the Cascadia Dirt Cup enduro series together and made a presence at several events and races in the Pacific Northwest.

This year, we put more focus into hosting our own events and clinics, with several of the events geared towards getting more women into bikes. Some events we've hosted recently include bike maintenance workshops, women’s mountain bike group rides and an overnight bike-packing trip!

MBE: How’s the lady mountain bike scene in Bellingham?

HB: The lady scene is really strong here and continues to grow each year! I am lucky to get to ride regularly with tons of badass ladies, and I hope we can be role models for young shredders to pursue mountain biking as well.

MBE: What’s your favorite bike right now?

HB: I've been riding the 2018 Kona Process 153 for the last year and it’s such a fun bike! It suits my riding style and the steep, technical terrain I like to ride.

MBE: Do you train?

HB: I train in the gym three or four days per week, focusing on strength to improve my riding and to help keep me healthy when I take a slam. I also ride my bike most days during the week, at least for a quick ride before or after work.

MBE: Favorite place to ride?

HB: Besides Bellingham, I love riding up in BC. Vancouver, Squamish, and Whistler are some of my favorites towns and every time I go my list of favorite trails grows longer.

MBE: Why Bellingham?

HB: I originally moved here to attend school at Western Washington University and I'll be graduating in the winter with a degree in kinesiology, but I don't plan to leave anytime soon after I graduate. The community here is something special, with exceptional trails and people who are passionate about growing and progressing the sport. The access to amazing trail systems right in town is easy to take for granted and other incredible riding areas are within a few hours.

Hannah Bergemann barreling through the trees on Galbraith Mountain.

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Clockwise from top left: Fly fishing the North Fork Nooksack River / Alex Powell photo. Mohawk, on Galbraith Mountain, is so good Angi Weston can’t help but smile / Skye Schillhammer photo. Finding solitude with sunrise on Baker Lake / Audra Lee Mercille photo. Marcus Paladino summiting a peak on the west coast of Vancouver Island, BC, overlooking Strathcona Provincial Park / Nora Morrison photo. Carlee Bock carving through the ferns above Lake Whatcom / Skye Schillhammer photo.

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

Gallery

FALL 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

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Cadin Yeckley chased by his dog in Whatcom County / Skye Schillhammer photo.

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

FALL 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

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Clockwise from top left: Andy ‘Disco’ Jones walks along the road next to Tofino’s North Chesterman Beach in hopes of scoring an empty wave before the weekend crowds descend / Marcus Paladino photo. Brooke Warren climbing in the sunset at Mt. Erie / Gabe Rogel photo. Daniel Hassell hanging out on “Hell Bent for Glory” in Index, Washington / Matthew Tangeman photo. The cold water messiah Pete Devries has the conditions on Vancouver Island dialed / Marcus Paladino photo. River crossing en route to Della Falls, on Vancouver Island / Nora Morrison photo.

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

Gallery

FALL 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

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3

easy fall

hikes near Vancouver Story and photos by Stephen Hui

M

any a hiker chooses to hang up their boots at summer’s end. However, committed trekkers know autumn hiking has its rewards: crisp air, vibrant foliage and deserted trails.

Fortunately, there’s no shortage of perfect fall hikes near Vancouver, BC. Here are three easy destinations for the shoulder season.

Reminders: Make sure to check current conditions, bring the 10 essentials, leave a trip plan with a responsible person, and remember to leave no trace. Dogs must be leashed on these trails.

Dog Mountain

Hayward Lake

Memorial Second Narrows Crossing, take Exit 22B. Head east on Mt. Seymour Parkway. Following signs for Mt. Seymour Provincial Park, turn left on Mt. Seymour Road and drive up to the ski area. Winter tires or chains are required between October and April.

The hike: Technically a shoulder of Mt. Seymour, Dog Mountain is a fine, family-friendly outing. It’s also a popular winter snowshoe trail. The hike lies outside the ski area boundary, so don’t make the mistake of buying a trail pass if you do go in winter.

Our loop begins at the BC Parks kiosk, near the bottom of the Mystery Peak Express chairlift. Saving the direct route to Dog Mountain for later, head north on the Mt. Seymour Trail (left of the Manning ski run) for a scenic detour to aptly named Dinkey Peak, our hike’s high point. After 0.3 miles, a left turn leads you up and down this mini summit with three viewpoints (spot your vehicle below?) to the First Lake Trail. Another left delivers you to First Lake itself, where you keep right to join the Dog Mountain Trail.

Continue west on the rooty path for 0.7 miles, popping out of the forest on a bluff with sensational views of the North Shore mountains, such as the Needles to the northwest, as well as Burrard Inlet (Tsleil-Wat to the Tsleil-Waututh Nation) and the urban sprawl of Metro Vancouver to the south. The elevation at Dog Mountain is 3,458 feet. The return trip involves retracing your steps to First Lake, where you keep right, sticking with the Dog Mountain Trail all the way back to the trailhead.

just west of the Stave River and Silvermere Lake. Continue onto Wilson Street and enter Mission. Turn right into the Railway Trail’s upper parking lot, 2.5 miles from the highway.

The hike: While the Railway Trail in Mission ostensibly offers a family-friendly outing, hikers and cyclists are cautioned against loitering in the section around Bob Brook. Dramatic signs warn of landslide risk heightened by heavy precipitation, with hazard ratings ranging from low to extreme.

Tracing a historic railway line, the 3.7-mile trail is located in the Hayward Lake Reservoir Recreation Area, part of BC Hydro’s Stave River hydroelectric complex. Impounded by the Ruskin Dam downstream from Stave Lake, Hayward Lake has filled a granite canyon in the heart of Kwantlen First Nation territory since the 1930s. Weather-beaten trestles recall the past, a version of which is highlighted by interpretative signs.

From the trailhead, drop down to the lakeshore and follow the wide gravel path northeast. There’s a little beach, and debris booms float in the cloudy blue-green water. Blackberry bushes line the path with power lines overhead. At intervals, the trail curves up and away from the shore to bridge a stream under the dappled light of Douglas fir and western red cedar trees.

After 3.4 miles on the Railway Trail, leave the slide hazard zone and turn left on Harry’s Trail. Round a pond in shade. At trail’s end, continue straight past a large parking lot and warden’s house to the beach (no dogs) with sand, picnic tables, and toilets. After lunch, walk southwest on the Railway Trail to return to the trailhead.

Round trip: 3.4 miles Elevation gain: 430 feet Access: On Trans-Canada Highway 1 in North Vancouver, north of Ironworkers

28

Round trip: 7.5 miles Elevation gain: 215 feet Access: From Highway 7 (Lougheed Highway) in Maple Ridge, go north on 287 Street,

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

recreational

REAL ESTATE Hicks Lake

Round trip: 3.7 miles Elevation gain: 150 feet Access: From Trans-Canada Highway 1 (Exit 135), east of Chilliwack,

head north on Highway 9 (Agassiz-Rosedale Highway/Hot Springs Road) to Harrison Hot Springs. Go right on Lillooet Road, which turns into Rockwell Drive, driving 4.3 miles to Sasquatch Provincial Park.

Keep right on the gravel road to Hicks Lake Campground, before turning left to reach the day use area.

The hike: If you harbor a desire to cross paths with the Yeti, Ogopogo, or other mysterious creatures, Sasquatch Provincial Park beckons in the heart of Sts’ailes and Stó:lō territories, northeast of Harrison Hot Springs. Indeed, Sasquatch is an Anglicization of the Sts’ailes word Sa:sq’ets, which refers to the principal caretaker of the First Nation’s land.

From the day use area, walk south following the lakeshore. The Hicks Lake Trail crosses a dam and fish ladder (cutthroat trout spawn in March and April), skirts the popular campground, and comes to a sandy beach at the lake’s south end. Continue the counterclockwise loop on the east side of the lake. The Hicks Lake Trail eventually merges with a dirt road and delivers you back to the day-use area.

Several geocaches are stashed around the lake. Finding them requires a GPS receiver loaded with geocache data or a mobile phone with a geocaching app. Searching for geocaches (and their esoteric contents) in stumps, under tree roots and along the lakeshore is both a frustrating and fun way to double the length of time needed for this hike.

For more information on these and other hikes, check out Stephen Hui’s 105 Hikes In and Around Southwestern British Columbia, an all-new guide from Greystone Books. Visit 105hikes.com.

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Time for a

cultural shi[f]t

Responsible poop disposal can help keep the Mt. Baker backcountry permit-free

By Jason D. Martin

P

oop.

Yep. That’s right. Poop. That’s what all the cool kids are talking about these days. Or perhaps, more specifically, the cool kids are talking about pooping in the backcountry and the impact it has on the environment and other people.

The average person unloads approximately 14 ounces (a little less than a pound) of poop every day or about 320 pounds of fecal waste every year, according to LiveScience.

That’s gross, but also a part of life.

And here’s another part of life: Bacteria make up approximately 30 percent of dry fecal-weight. Fecal matter and the bacteria associated with it are often responsible for contaminating drinking water. This usually happens where there are a lot of people who are not effectively dealing with their waste in the mountains. The most common contaminants are cryptosporidium and giardia, both of which may lead to serious illness.

It also should go without saying that drinking water that has been contaminated by poop is disgusting.

So, what are we to do?

Backcountry travelers have used several techniques over the years to deal with their waste. The most common technique is to bury it in a cat hole – a 6-inch-deep hole in the soil below tree line. The traveler squats over the hole and leaves a little present. Once finished, the hole is filled in and the toilet paper packed out. Cat holes should be at least 200 feet from any water source and should be well hidden after use.

The problem with the cat hole technique is that for it to work effectively the hole must be made in organic soil, which is generally only found below the tree line. Above tree line, the soil is more likely to be sandy and devoid of the decomposers and organisms required to break down human waste.

Historically, hikers and climbers above tree line have relied on techniques designed for remote areas. These include the smear technique (smearing fecal matter thinly on sunny rock faces so that solar radiation kills bacteria and dries out the waste), “crevassing” the waste (literally throwing it in a crevasse), and the flying poo bird technique (defecating on a flat rock and throwing it off a moraine so that it scatters widely).

But these techniques were designed for truly remote areas.

The reality is that Mt. Baker isn’t really remote anymore, nor are the Twin Sisters, Mt. Shuksan or any part of the Mt. Baker backcountry – there are people everywhere. As a result, these “remote techniques” are not effective and people could easily be exposed to pathogens in human waste that aren’t appropriately dealt with.

The best way to deal with your poop in the mountains is to bring it back down with you. Yep. You heard that right.

For years, the U.S. Forest Service has required guides and their guests in the Mt. Baker Ranger District to carry out their human waste above tree line. This has helped decrease waste on Mt. Baker and in the Baker backcountry, but it hasn’t eliminated it. Indeed, it is not uncommon to find poop and toilet paper in the snow or on the rocks in the local backcountry. The US Forest Service is acutely aware of the problem and will be asking all above tree-line visitors to Mt. Baker to pack out their poo in 2019.

If there isn’t a cultural change around human waste on Mt. Baker and in the surrounding area, the Forest Service could implement a permit program. Such a program would allow the organization to manage the number of people on the

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mountain, would enable them to speak to every visitor about packing out waste, and would ultimately decrease the amount of waste left on the mountain.

Nobody wants more regulations, so the best way to avoid that is to begin the cultural shift around human waste removal. Climbers, skiers and hikers that travel above tree line should plan to carry everything out.

And we should all work to normalize this as part of our responsibility, both as locals and as responsible backcountry users.

The primary technique for removing poop from the backcountry is to use a waste bag. Many trailheads and ranger stations provide “blue bags.” These are an inexpensive version of a waste bag that uses combination of plastic bags and twist ties. Commercial waste bag are more secure. The most popular brand is the WAG bag, but there are several other brands out there. It’s not uncommon to hear all commercial waste bags referred to as WAG bags regardless of the brand.

Commercial waste bags employ a double bag system. Usually there is an inner bag and an outer bag. The inner bag tends to look like a large garbage bag and includes some sort of chemical smell reduction. The traveler should go to the bathroom in this bag, put any toilet paper or wet wipes in the bag, squeeze all the air out of the bag and then tie it shut. This bag may then be placed in the outer bag. It’s important to get all the air out of the outer bag as well; this will make it easier to pack.

Waste bags should never be left where animals can get to them. Don’t bury them in the snow or put them under rocks. The best place to store a used waste bag on a multi-day trip is under your tent. This will keep the cargo from being ripped open and scattered about by curious or hungry critters, and it will also keep you from having to clean that up later.

Using and storing a waste bag is only part of the process. Once the trip is over, a backcountry traveler must carry the bag out. One way to do this is to place the bag at the top of all your gear, under the brain of the pack. Another way is to store it in a pouch on the outside of the pack. Many packs have a “shove it” pouch on the main body. These are often tight, but will usually accommodate a waste bag.

Many trailheads in the Mt. Baker Ranger District have garbage receptacles. Waste bags can be deposited in these. If a receptacle isn’t available, Whatcom County allows these bags to be placed in the regular trash.

While it may sound unpleasant at first, packing out human waste is really not that bad.

As people flock to the backcountry, packing it out can go a long way toward preserving the wilderness experience and limiting regulations in the backcountry.

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TO CANADA

It’s Back!

The cult-favorite hill climb to Artist Point returns

By Oliver Lazenby

Cyclists climbed the highway under sunny skies during the 2007 Ride 542. Mount Baker Experience file photos by Sean McCall.

M

ost popular bike races are long. The Tour de France is about 2,082 miles this year, with an average stage length of 105 miles; the Seattle to Portland is more than 200 miles and Ride Around Mount Rainier in One Day is 152 miles.

Ride 542, which ran between 2003 and 2013, just needed 24 miles – from Glacier to Artist Point – to gain a following. And it only went uphill, making it especially popular among those who enjoy mental and physical challenges, epic views filtered through a soaring sense of accomplishment and, possibly, delirium.

Between the challenge and the opportunity to ride a one-of-a-kind stretch of road with no traffic, many cyclists were sad to see the race go; Whatcom Events, the nonprofit behind Ski to Sea and other events, regularly got requests to host a new version of the race.

“We have been approached a bunch. I’m sure Charlie [Heggem, founder of NorKa Recreation, which formerly hosted the race] has been approached a bunch too,” said Anna Rankin, Whatcom Events race director.

“The highway is so iconic. Combine that with the fact that you have the opportunity to ride 542 with no traffic, I mean, that just doesn’t happen.”

Whatcom Events heard the cyclists loud and clear,

and will host the race on Sunday, September 9, 2018.

The race will be nearly identical to Ride 542, but with a different name and a slightly different start. Instead of starting in downtown Glacier, the Mt. Baker Hill Climb begins at Snowater Road, just east of Chair 9 Woodstone Pizza & Bar, making the race logistically simpler and easier on Glacier residents.

That won’t make it easier for the riders, however.

Andrew Berg, who competed in Ride 542 three times between 2007 and 2010, said the course can be broken into two distinct sections – a flatter section between Glacier and the Shuksan DOT Station, and the final 11 miles between there and Artist Point.

In the latter section, the road climbs from about 2,000 feet to more than 5,000 feet with an average grade between 4 and 5 percent, according to a DOT spokesperson, and plenty of sections that reach 7 percent.

“It’s pretty grueling, but it’s over pretty quick,” Berg said. “The destination is really cool. You get to Artist Point and you look around and you’re at the top of the world and you realize you got up there on your own.”

In total, the route climbs about 4,000 feet, besting the world famous Alpe d’Huez, in the Tour de France, which climbs about 3,700 feet over nearly 9 miles.

“The burn and the challenge has got to be what ap-

peals to the elite athletes,” Rankin said. “Just driving down that stretch of the highway sometimes scares me.”

The original race did attract elite athletes; past winners finished the race in about one hour and 20 minutes, averaging 18 miles per hour over the course. That’s a respectable speed for most people on a flat road.

But it’s not just for elite athletes. The Mt. Baker Hill Climb will have three divisions: a social ride starts at 7 a.m., a recreational division leaves at 8 a.m. and competitive riders take off at 8:30 a.m.

The highway will close from 7 a.m. until noon, which should leave time for racers to ride down the hill while it’s still closed, Rankin said. A shuttle will be running to take gear from the start to the finish line, and to bring people and gear (including bikes) from the finish line back to the start after the race.

The winner in both the male and female categories gets $250, second place gets $100 and third, $50. The top male and female in each of four age divisions also win a jersey.

Race entry costs $80, with the proceeds going to Lydia Place, a Bellingham nonprofit that provides transitional and permanent housing and other services.

For more information on the Mt. Baker Hill Climb, visit bakerhillclimb.com.

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FALL 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

33

Vendovi Island Silence & solitude off the beaten path in the San Juans

A

Story and photos by Jefferson Morriss

s most people know, the San Juan Islands are a breathtaking island getaway. What most people don't know, however, is that some lesser-known islands in the San Juans are open to the public and accessible even if you don’t own a boat. It may take a little more effort and planning but getting off the beaten path is worth it.

Vendovi Island, just south of Lummi Island, is one of a number of islands in the San Juans not served by Washington State ferries. Visitors can reach it by private boat or by one of several water taxi services.

The San Juan Preservation Trust purchased Vendovi in 2010, saving it from future development and opening it to the public in the process.

The 217-acre island is open to visitors from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. from April to September, and features six beaches, four trails and – since it has no deer, rabbits or raccoons – flourishing flora.

The island's namesake is a Fijian chief, Ro Veidovi, who was captured by a U.S. ship for the murder and cannibalization of a whaling crew in 1833. The U.S. Exploring Expedition, led by Charles Wilkes, brought Veidovi back across the

Pacific and he remained on board as the ship surveyed the San Juans. Along the way, one of the surveyors apparently named the island after the chief, with an Anglicized version of his name.

Upon arriving at the island’s protected north cove, where charters and private boats can tie up to a 70-foot dock, the first thing you'll notice is an unassuming caretaker house. Elaina and her fiancée Thyatira are the island’s caretakers from April through September. With trail maintenance, gardening and keeping up the off-grid systems at the house, they seem to stay pretty busy.

“You give up a few luxuries but the reward is so much greater,” Elaina said about living on Vendovi.

If you're lucky enough to arrive on a day without charter boats, you'll likely experience the things I did on the trail: silence and solitude.

When nobody else is around, your senses become more in tune to the world around you: the crunch of your boot on trail debris, sword ferns brushing your legs and the shrill call of eagles flying over the island.

One of the four trails on the island leads to the sublime Sunset Beach. Once used by the native Salish as a shellfish dumping ground or “midden,”

Sunset Beach is littered with white shells that clatter and break beneath your feet. While there, explore the small rock outcroppings scattered along the beach. Check out the interesting driftwood piled up and admire the colorful madrona trees sticking out from the shore.

The longest of Vendovi’s trails, Paintbrush Point, is a 1.8-mile hike that leads through dense forest.

The trail skirts one of the island’s high points before emerging at a small but charming overlook with views of the islands.

On your way back, you'll notice a small cemetery for John Fluke, who owned the island from 1966 to 2010. Explore the old sawmill near the residence, which sits in silent decay after many years of disuse, along with a shop and garden area.

A quarter-mile from the caretaker house, a wooden staircase leads to Sunrise Beach. I walk down to the beach to find an oil tanker sitting idle between Vendovi and Samish Bay as smaller crafts sail by on the breeze. Trees lean out over the pebble-lined beach as my feet sink in with every step. Not a soul to be seen or heard, silence and solitude – perfection.

For more information about the island, visit sjpt.org.

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Seduced by the

juice

An e-bike primer

By Pat Grubb

A

silent revolution in the cycling world that began in China and conquered Europe is now riding strong across North America.

Electric bikes, or “e-bikes” are finding fans across all ages and all styles of riding. With its quick-paced success, it might be time to hop on the bandwagon, or bike, if you will.

E-bikes offer appeal for a lot of different reasons. Millennials appreciate the technological and economical alternative to car ownership; boomers are using them to take on mountain bikers, using gravity to take them downhill and electricity to take them back up. There seems to be a version for just about anyone including pizza delivery people and green grocers making home deliveries.

Like regular bikes, e-bikes offer convenience, exercise and an excuse to get outdoors. The big difference is, you can get farther and faster with less effort if that’s what you want. Hills that would normally be viewed with trepidation can be climbed almost effortlessly depending upon your stamina and motor settings.

Leading the world in sales and usage, China has an estimated 200 million e-bikes on the road already, with another 18-30 million or so projected to be added every year by 2023.

E-bike sales in Europe have been surging at

double-digit rates and especially in Germany and Holland. Slow to the party but beginning to dance is the North American market.

The global information company NPD Group reports that e-bikes are showing strong year-over-year growth in the U.S., with dollar sales up 95 percent in 2017 and unit sales showing almost identical growth. The e-bike market has nearly tripled over the last three years and is showing no signs of slowing.

Who is buying these bikes? Fairhaven Bicycle Shop co-owner Matt Karre figured the market would consist of older riders wanting assistance on the hills but has found that quite a few of his customers are looking for a green alternative to a car. He recently sold a couple of Specialized e-bikes and a child trailer to a Seattle couple living in Seattle’s Queen Anne neighborhood, the highest hill in the city. Their home is on the north side, their daycare is on the south side and their offices are back on the north side.

And thanks to their new electric ride, their commute is faster.

Think riding an e-bike is cheating somehow?

Think again. The amount of effort you put into riding is up to you. Perhaps you don’t want to arrive at work all hot and sweaty; in that case, let the motor do more of the work and get your exercise on the way home. A big advantage to e-bikes is that it makes long commutes easier.

Both time and distance are compressed when you’re riding at 20 or 28 mph instead of 10 or 12 mph.

Types of Bikes Apart from do-it-yourself kits which are almost always hub setups, e-bikes are generally differentiated by the placement of the motor.

There are hub motors which are usually placed on the rear wheel and mid-motor mounts that are connected directly to the pedal crank hub.

There are pros and cons for both kinds. Hub motors are typically less expensive but they can restrict your gearing options. Replacing wheels is a bit of a pain and depending on battery

placement, the handling of the bike can be different from what you would normally expect.

Mid-motor mounts can take advantage of a bike’s gears; they have a lower and more central center of gravity and can be serviced easily.

Germany’s Bosch and Switzerland’s Specialized have made these a popular choice.

You’ll need to decide whether you want a Class 1 pedal assist, Class 2 with throttle and pedal assist or a Class 3 S-Pedelec. Pedal assist provides motor assistance only when you’re pedaling and the amount of assistance is determined by how hard you’re pedaling and what power setting you’ve selected. Most pedal assist have eco, sport and turbo settings which give increasing assistance (and decreasing range).

Bikes with throttles allow you to stop pedaling and have the motor do all of the work for you.

Regardless of the type of e-bike you’re considering, all are limited in the top speed at which the motors assist. In Canada, the motor will cease providing support at 20 mph (32 kph) while in the US the limit for Class 3 models is 28 mph (45 kph). That doesn’t mean all bikes in the States will go that fast with assistance; Class 1 or 2 models limited to the lower speed are quite common. In truth, 20 mph is plenty fast on the flats and might be a more comfortable speed for many people. Remember, going downhill your speed is only limited by wind resistance, how steep the hill is and lack of fear (or brains).

How to decide on which bike to buy You probably know the kind of bike you want already. Are you interested in a beach cruiser, an urban commuter/trekking cycle, a full-suspension mountain bike or a utility setup? Are you interested in pure recreation or is it going to be a mode of regular transportation? First, decide on your budget. You can find deals out there but you get what you pay for. The fastest-growing price band is $2000-2,500 according to global information company, The NPD Group, and the prices go up and up from there.

Many bike manufacturers offer financing if you don’t have all the cash at hand. Things that will drive up the price are battery capacity, component quality, suspension features, options and motor size.

Then do your research. One place to start is at electricbikereview.com which has lots of written and video reviews of various makes, models and types of e-bikes. Other good choices are electricbike.com, cyclingweekly.com (for a European perspective) and bikeradar.com. You know the drill – Google electric bike reviews and you’ll have plenty to check out.

Next, go try out some different makes, models and types (eg. hub vs. mid-motor, urban vs.

E-BIKE RETAILERS

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Washington Fairhaven Bicycles 1108 11th Street Bellingham 360/733-4433 fairhavenbicycles.com Specialized Jack’s Bicycle Center 1907 Iowa Street Bellingham 360/733-1955 jacksbicyclecenter.com Giant Skagit Cycle Center (3 locations) 1704 S. Burlington Blvd Burlington 360/757-7910 skagitcyclecenter.com Blix, Raleigh, Electra, Trek, Specialized Trek Bicycle 100 E. Chestnut Street Bellingham 360/733-6440 trekbikes.com Trek

Lower Mainland Cap’s Bicycles Langley 20306 Logan Ave Langley 604/534-7718 capsbicycles.ca Norco, Specialized Cit-E-Cycles (4 locations) 13760 104 Avenue Surrey 604/584-7995 citecycles.com Bulls, Cube, gocycle, Pedego, Raleigh, Ruffian, Specialized Pedeco Electric Bikes 2774 W. 4th Avenue Vancouver 604/620-5612 pedecoelectricbikes.ca Pedeco Reckless Bike Stores (3 locations) 110 Davie Street Vancouver 604/648-2600 reckless.ca Benno, Evo, Haibike, iZip, Raleigh

MTB). Try as many different bikes as you can – you’ll love the first one you ride but it may not be the best choice.

Depending on what features your particular bike comes with, you might have to purchase optional equipment. If you’re riding on the road or at night, good quality lights are a must. Some riders double-up on them and keep them on during the day to help drivers see them. Mirrors are also a good idea – if you’re rolling at 20 or 25 mph, swiveling your head backwards every few seconds means you’re not going to be able to avoid sudden potholes or other obstructions. Loud bells or horns that give advance warning to pedestrians should be at the top of your list. If you’re trekking or carrying cargo, racks and paniers come in all kinds and price range.

Be careful!

With increased speed comes increased risk of serious injury should a rider come off the bike or meet with a solid obstacle such as a pole or a vehicle. This is especially true for older riders. Reports from Holland show older riders are disproportionately likely to be injured or killed on an e-bike than other bikes or mopeds. E-bike users are particularly prone to head, arm and leg injuries and their injuries are twice as likely to be serious than ordinary bike users.

One thing to keep in mind is that drivers don’t necessarily perceive how fast an e-bike is going and, as a result, might think they have plenty of time to turn in front of you when they actually don’t. This means an e-bicyclist needs to ride defensively and make sure the car driver is aware of their presence. Go to whatcomsmarttrips.org for tips on defensive riding, Washington state bicycle laws, commuting and more. For an excellent overview of bike safety and laws, go to bikesense.bc. ca/bikesense-manual. Washington cyclists would benefit from reading it as well, especially if they intend to do any biking north of the border.

Don’t let your bike be stolen Any lock can be defeated and any bike can be stolen – but you can make it difficult as possible for the thief. This means investing in a good lock and using it. Store your bike in a secure location if possible and in a lighted and well-frequented area if not. Locks come in many versions with some being barely adequate and others being too heavy to want to use on an everyday basis. U-locks are popular and reasonably ef-

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Asus, a German lock maker, is highly recommended by the international bike registry 529 Project which bills itself as the largest community-based bike recovery service (project529. com/garage). Most bikes that are stolen and recovered are never returned as their owners neglected to register them. Most police departments participate in Project 529 as do universities, cities, bike clubs and bike retailers. Make sure you join!

There are plenty of high-quality, independent bike retailers in the Lower Mainland and north Washington state who sell many brands of e-bikes, too many to include with their listing in the sidebar.

Get biking, e-style.

.

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910 W. Front St. • Sumas, WA 98295

360-988-9631 www.valleype.com

Hot, Chilled or Frozen, Eat Local this Holiday Season.

Sumas Auto Care Center Serving all of Whatcom County!

120 3rd St. • Sumas • 360-988-4702

24-HOURS

FALL 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

37

EATS ACME/VAN ZANDT EVERYBODY’S STORE

5465 Potter Road, off Highway 9 360/592-2297 everybodys.com This delightful and eclectic store features a wide array of gourmet meats, specialty cheeses and fine wines, many of which are made locally. Also check out their great selection of clothing, books and artwork.

BELLINGHAM KULSHAN BREWING COMPANY

Sunnyland Beer Garden & Small Batch Brewery 2238 James Street 360/389-5348 kulshanbrewing.com A Sunnyland staple offering the chance to experience Kulshan’s small batch and flagship beers. Inviting, family-friendly taproom and dog-friendly outdoor beer garden host rotating food trucks, music, events and beer to go.

KULSHAN BREWING COMPANY (K2)

Roosevelt Taproom & Production Brewery 1538 Kentucky Street 360/389-5348 kulshanbrewing.com A 30-barrel brew house in the Roosevelt neighborhood. Twenty taps of awardwinning beers in an industrial setting – great for large groups! Rotating food trucks, outside patio, events, keg sales and TVs for sports. 21+

NAAN & BREW

200 East Maple Street, Bellingham Naanandbrew.com 360/389-5493 Naan & Brew is a family-owned authentic Indian restaurant specializing in lamb, seafood, vegetarian and tandoor-cooked dishes. Serves local, seasonal microbrews and operates a full bar. Come see why they were voted “Bellingham’s Best!"

WESTSIDE PIZZA

7260 Cordata Parkway, Suite 107 360/756-5055 westsidepizza.com Pizza made with only the best ingredients available, and dough made fresh every day. The perfect place to stop after a long, hungry day of adventuring.

BURLINGTON

SLEEPS ANNIE’S PIZZA STATION

44568 State Route 20 360/853-7227 anniespizzastation.com Family-owned pizza restaurant focusing on fresh, homemade quality Italian fare.

Friendly service, helpful information and great food combine for an unforgettable experience.

DEMING THE NORTH FORK BREWERY AND BEER SHRINE

BELLEWOOD ACRES

WELCOME GROCERY

8114 Guide Meridian jakeswesterngrill.com 360/354-5588 Generous portions, quality comfort food with Southern-style! Mouthwatering pulled pork, baby back ribs and brisket served with made-to-order cornbread. A lip-smackin’ end to a fabulous day on the mountain.

5565 Mount Baker Highway 360/922-7294 Eat in or take out. Fresh-made, homestyle breakfast, lunch and dinner. Pastries, deli sandwiches, rotisserie chicken, ribs and soft serve ice cream. Largest bottle shop in region. Plus, ethanol-free gas.

EVERSON GOOD TO GO MEAT PIES

128 W. Main Street 360/966-2400 goodtogomeatpies.com Artisan Hand Pies made from scratch in the heart of Whatcom’s organic farmland has made Good to Go Meat Pies a popular destination place in both Everson and Lynden. Pastries are offered hot, chilled or frozen.

HERB NIEMANN’S STEAK HOUSE RESTAURANT

203 W. Main Street 360/966-2855 eversonsteakhouse.com Nestled in the middle of Everson, serving a mouth-watering array of steaks, Bavarian specialties, seafood and desserts to customers since 1993. Offers atmospheres for adults and families alike, including parties up to 50.

GLACIER CHAIR 9 WOODSTONE PIZZA AND BAR

CONCRETE

GRAHAM’S RESTAURANT

45597 Main Street 360/853-8700 5bsbakery.com Skagit County’s premier bakeshop serving home-style breads as well as a full array of fresh baked goods and classic American desserts. Dedicated gluten-free. Great food for everyone. Open 7 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Tuesdays.

LYNDEN 6140 Guide Meridian 360/318-7720 bellewoodfarms.com Visit the distillery farm, country store and bistro for artisan food products and Northwest gifts. Visit the website for a full list of entertainment and family activities.

18042 Hwy 20 360/707-2722 skagitfish.com Offering the highest quality in local seafood. Daily lunch specials freshly prepared. Local jams, jellies, salsas, honey and sauces. Visit us on Facebook.

5B’S BAKERY

6903 Bourne Street 360/599-9378 getsconed.com Open daily 7:30 a.m.–5ish p.m. Serving breakfast burritos, quiche, soup, lunch wraps and freshly baked goods. Savory and sweet gluten-free options. Organic espresso and coffee. Indoor and outdoor seating. Dine in or take out.

6186 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2337 northforkbrewery.com Looking for a pint of fresh ale and handtossed pizza? This pizzeria, brewery, wedding chapel and beer museum is your place! Open to all. Monday–Friday: dinner; Saturday–Sunday: lunch and dinner.

10459 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2511 chair9.com The perfect place to enjoy a great family meal or a brew after a day on the mountain. Bands play weekends. Try the “Canuck’s Deluxe” pizza, a staff favorite.

Open for lunch and dinner. Dine in or take out. Check music events on Facebook.

SKAGIT’S OWN FISH MARKET

WAKE ‘N BAKERY

9989 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-9883 Grab a stool at the legendary bar and enjoy rotating selections of fine craft beers, ciders and wine. New menu specials – appetizers, sandwiches and dinner.

Breakfast weekends.

JAKE’S WESTERN GRILL

MOUNT VERNON THIRD STREET CAFE

GLACIER A CHALET AT MT. BAKER

7087 Bluet Pass 360/367-0963 chaletatmtbaker.com Enjoy a fall getaway at Mount Baker in our cozy cabin. Fully furnished.

Includes a wood-burning stove, outdoor hot tub and fire pit. To view, go to: vrbo.com/779920. Email chaletatmtbaker@gmail.com.

BLUE T LODGE

10459 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-9944 bluetlodge.com Conveniently located behind Chair 9 Woodstone Pizza and Bar, this six-room inn is ideal for families or groups. Clean rooms have queensized beds, a full bathroom and private small patios as well as access to a meeting space.

LUXURY GETAWAYS

9989 Mt. Baker Highway 360/398-9590 or 887/90-BAKER stayatmtbaker.com Representing the finest chalets and lodges. Luxury Getaways provide overnight accommodations in newly built vacation homes located in the heart of the Mt. Baker Recreational Area. Close to an abundance of outdoor recreational activities.

SNOWATER RESORT AND CONDOMINIUMS

10500 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2724 snowater.org One and two-bedroom rentals available. Recreation centers with indoor pools and sauna. Indoor/outdoor racquetball courts.

309 South Third Street 360/542-5022 thirdstreetcafe.coop Brought to you by the Skagit Valley Food Co-op, Third Street Cafe is a communityowned restaurant and bar offering a fresh perspective on Pacific Northwest cuisine with its made-from-scratch dishes and hyperlocal ingredients.

7425 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2999 or 888/695-7533 bakeraccommodations.com Baker Accommodations offers cabins and condos in the resort developments of Snowater, Snowline and Mt. Baker Rim.

SKAGIT VALLEY CO-OP

MT. BAKER LODGING

202 S.1st Street 360/336-9777 skagitfoodcoop.com We make our deli food from scratch using fresh, quality ingredients, sourced from local and organic suppliers whenever possible. Stop in for entrees, side dishes, soups, salads, sandwiches, or our handmade, organic ice cream. We offer vegan, vegetarian, raw, gluten-free, and whole food choices for every meal.

ROCKPORT GLACIER PEAK RESORT & WINERY

58575 SR 20, between mileposts 103 & 104 360/873-2250 • 360/873-4073 glacierpeakresort.com Nestled between the majestic peaks of the Cascade Range, year round eatery offers specialty dishes made from scratch daily and made-to-order breakfast. At the nearby winery enjoy handcrafted wines including world-class Pinot Noir and local cheeses.

MAPLE FALLS BAKER ACCOMMODATIONS

7463 Mt. Baker Highway 800/709-7669 mtbakerlodging.com Mt. Baker Lodging offers cabins, condos, chalets and executive rental home accommodations. A number of selected units are pet friendly.

Walk-in reservations and one-night stays available.

ROCKPORT GLACIER PEAK RESORT AND WINERY

Between mileposts 103 & 104/ 58575 SR 20 360/873-2250 • 360/873-4073 glacierpeakresort.com Newly renovated cozy cabins and chalets to fit any budget. An outdoor enthusiast wonderland located on the western entrance of the North Cascades. Acres of forest, trails and riverfront. Restaurant onsite and winery nearby.

WINTHROP CHEWUCH INN

223 White Avenue 800/747-3107 chewuchinn.com Guest rooms for romantic getaways, seasonal travelers and outdoor enthusiasts. The relaxed atmosphere of a B&B with the privacy of a hotel. Centrally located for an abundance of outdoor adventures in the surrounding wilderness areas.

EVENTS SEPTEMBER OAK HARBOR MUSIC FESTIVAL:

August 30-September 2, Oak Harbor.

Three free days of live music on the beautiful isle of Whidbey. Two main stages with over 30 bands. Two beer gardens, local food vendors and sidewalk cafes.

More info: www.oakharborfestival.com

MT. BAKER CAR SHOW: September 1,

10am-4pm in Maple Falls. This annual event is hosted by Mt. Baker Lions Club.

More info: www.mtbakercarshow.com

WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL: September 7-9, Port Townsend. North America’s premier wooden boat gathering features 300 wooden vessels, 120 presentations and thousands of experts and enthusiasts. The festival honors tradition but also allows for debate about the latest innovations. More info: www.nwmaritime.org SKAGIT RIVER SALMON FESTIVAL: September 8, Mt. Vernon. This fun-filled family event on the banks of the Skagit River offers a great setting to spend the day celebrating the return of the salmon. Live music, beer garden, food and more. More info: www.skagitriverfest.org

find more events and submit your own at mountbakerexperience.com

THE GOAT RUN: September 8, Olympic National Park. The Great Olympic Adventure Trail Run (GOAT Run) is a one-way trail marathon and half marathon on a route that traverses Kelly Ridge between the Olympic National Park and the Strait of Juan de Fuca with amazing views the entire way. More info: www.greatoatrun.org Glacier. The popular road bicycle race to Artist Point is back. Ride the closed highway for a chance at winning a cash prize.

More info: www.bakerhillclimb.com

PORT TOWNSEND FILM FESTIVAL: September 21-23, Port Townsend. Films, films, films! Plus interviews with authors, special screenings and more. More info: www.ptfilmfest.com

BELLINGHAM TRAVERSE: September 15,

Bellingham. Get hooked on the Bellingham Traverse, a fun relay race that celebrates the journey of wild salmon. Form a solo, tandem or relay team to run, bike and paddle through Bellingham’s scenic parks, winding trails and open waterways. More info: www.recreationnorthwest.org

BELLINGHAM SEAFEAST: September 22-23, Bellingham. Come for the food, stay for the fun. Fisher poets, world-class seafood, water recreation and more. Eat, play, explore. More info: www.bellinghamseafeast.com September 22, Orcas Island. Mountain bike, kayak and trek your way through the San Juans. The best route is up to you and your teammates. Three- and 12-hour races. More info: www.questraces.com

QUEENS OF DIRT MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE: September 22, Bellingham. This

September 15, Bellingham. Get hooked on the Bellingham Traverse, a fun relay race that celebrates the journey of wild salmon. Form a solo, tandem or relay team to run, bike and paddle through Bellingham’s scenic parks, winding trails and open waterways. More info: www.recreationnorthwest.org

Bellingham, October 20. The Blanchard Beast is a new Greater Bellingham Running Club trail race that is approximately 10 miles long. The race takes place on the trails of the Blanchard State Forest due south of Bellingham and offers an exciting, wooded run with over 2,000 feet of elevation gain. more info: www.gbrc.net

MT. BAKER HILL CLIMB: September 9,

ISLAND QUEST ADVENTURE RACE:

BELLINGHAM TRAVERSE:

THE BLANCHARD BEAST TRAIL RACE:

BELLINGHAM BAY MARATHON: September 30, Bellingham. The views are of the bay, the San Juan Islands and North Cascades are beautiful, it’s a Boston marathon qualifier and the course entertainment and finish activities are fantastic. More info: www. bellinghambaymarathon. org

CASCADE CROSS SERIES OPENER:

October 3, Bellingham. The first official race of this Northwest cyclocross series is at the Bellingham BMX track. Check it out and be ready to get muddy. More info: www.cascadecross.com

HARVEST DINNER CELEBRATION AT NORTH CASCADES INSTITUTE ENVIRONMENTAL LEARNING CENTER: October

6-7. Featuring Crown Jewel Wilderness: Creating North Cascades National Park presentation with author and historian Lauren Danner. Two meals and overnight accommodations. More info: www.ncascades.org

THE BIG HURT: September 22, Port Angeles. The Big Hurt is a multi-sport race with four legs: mountain biking, kayaking, road biking and running. Participants can race solo or as a relay team of 2-4 people.

More info: www.bighurtpa.com

50TH BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION OF NORTH CASCADES NATIONAL PARK:

Bellingham. TGR is returning to the Mount Baker Theatre for the winter kick-off party of the year. Join us for a one-night only premiere of our new feature length ski and snowboard film, Far out. More info: www. tetongravity.com

NOVEMBER

OCTOBER

women and junior girls cross country mountain bike race is intended to create a welcoming experience for new and seasoned female riders of all ages. The course is on Lake Padden’s backloop trails. More info at: www.bikereg.com/qodmtbrace

TGR PRESENTS FAR OUT: September 26,

TRAILS TO TAPS: October 21, Bellingham.

Teams of 5-10 runners race a relay that highlights two of Bellingham’s best assets – beer and trail running. Each leg of the 30-mile course ends at a different brewery.

Raffles and costume contest round out the after party fun. More info: www.trailstotaps. com

October 14. Seattle. Also celebrating Wild and Scenic Rivers Act and National Trails System Act. Speakers, family activities, art, food trucks and more. More info: www. ncascades.org

KOMO KULSHAN SKI CLUB SKI AND SNOWBOARD SWAP: October 18-20, Bellingham. Gear up to hit the slopes at Komo Kulshan Ski Club’s annual ski and snowboard swap. More info: www. komokulshanskiclub.com

WARREN MILLER’S 69TH FEATURE FILM, FACE OF WINTER: November 10, Mount Baker Theatre, Bellingham. The 69th annual “must-see” film has footage from Mt. Baker’s Legendary Banked Slalom. More info: www.warrenmiller.com

HOLIDAY FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS:

November 16, Bellingham. This arts festival kicks off in November and runs through December 24, featuring work from local artists seven days a week.

More info: www.alliedarts.org.

FALL 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

39

Crevasses and angry dogs A bicycle-powered Mt. Baker ski descent Story and photos by Peter Lillesve

D

ogs chased me down the dark highway – fast ones, loud ones, all unleashed and unfenced.

Of the many contingencies I thought about before this adventure – things like glacier travel, flat tires, sunburn, calories, and companions – dogs were not on my radar. Nor were hot rod semi trucks.

Maybe I should back up a bit.

A year and a half earlier, I woke up one winter night after a rare nightmare and had trouble going back to sleep. Lying in bed, a concept somehow coalesced. The idea is nothing radical and probably occurs to every mountain-loving person who lives in sight of Mt. Baker: let’s climb that thing. No doubt, having read about the mountain runners who made a similar trip last year was on my mind. The mountain runners took it a step further by starting and ending their climb at sea level and traveling under their own power the whole way.

An awesome idea, but I’m fairly certain I couldn’t even walk the 100-plus miles required to repeat their trip, much less run it. Besides, the thought of walking down more than 6,000 vertical feet of perfectly skiable snow seemed like a terrible waste of gravity. No, there had to be another option.

Back to the dogs: I was somewhere near Welcome (ha!), about 2:30 a.m., riding my trusty commuter bike toward Mt. Baker, when out of the darkness came a chorus of barks and paws beating pavement. My headlight was on my handlebars, so I couldn't see what kind of head start I had, but one thing was clear: It wasn’t enough.

Adrenaline – it had been a while since my last taste. But it still worked, hitting me immediately, a tidal wave of heat flooding through my chest, my face, my arms. Wait for it – my legs. Yes, legs! I jumped up from the saddle, shifted up two gears, and jammed. The skis, the panniers and my pack

40

all groaned as I accelerated, clinking and swaying like some garbage truck injected with nitrous oxide.

Do dogs have adrenaline? Maybe, but these mustn't have used it. I pulled away slowly, then faster as my momentum built. The dogs eventually gave up and I laughed hysterically, a final manifestation of the quickly subsiding adrenaline buzz.

A moment later, all was quiet. It was just me and the stars again.

reasonable as a day trip. This would be great!

Again, life. In the spring we were looking at buying a house. I did different trips and before I knew it, I had written the journey off for another year. Then, in late June, my buddy Jon texted me looking for a partner to ski Baker two days hence. A fuse was lit: here was an opportunity with little time to reason my way out. I pitched a plan to him. My buddy Pavel was in, too. They were both satisfied with just skiing, so we agreed to meet at the trailhead.

Midnight - Glass Beach, Bellingham I realize I left my ski boots at home in the flurry of after-work packing.

12:30 a.m. - Glass Beach, Bellingham

The summer after I conceived the idea came and went, because, well, life. I got married, we moved, different trips happened; it was a great year. But the idea stuck with me: Bellingham Bay to Grouse Creek by bike, skin from there to Mt. Baker’s summit, then reverse. Traveling by bike meant I could take everything I needed without my knees exploding.

Skiing meant safer glacier travel and a fun descent. It looked

I load my bike with a heap of gear and enough food to get me round-trip. I dip my tires into the water while my wife Julianna takes a picture, and then I take off as a train rumbles by, drowning out our goodbyes.

I stop for minor load adjustments on the outskirts of Bellingham. I've loaded skis on my bike for many late spring approaches, every time a different way. This time I nailed it, thankfully as 90 miles would be a long way to endure knees rubbing on bindings, or ski boots threatening to fall off.

The miles pass while I awe at the stars during a new moon. As I roll through Nugent's Corner around 1:45 a.m., the temperature drops noticeably, so I change gloves. Deming goes by to the sound of crickets, then Welcome with its unwelcome dogs. Between Welcome and Kendall some kind of hot rod semi-truck flies by like a bat out of hell, passing too close for comfort, then is swallowed up by the night. It's too early to be hallucinating, isn't it?

I stop in Kendall to update my wife once before losing phone service. A state trooper pulls in to see what I'm up to.

When I tell him, he shakes his head, wishes me luck and pulls away. I can't fault his curiosity; I probably do look suspicious.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

Just before 4 a.m - Glacier I stop outside Graham's Restaurant to eat a banana, knowing what comes next. Despite considering this idea for so long, it never occurred to me to install a granny gear chainring. Climbing 3,000 feet from Glacier to the Heliotrope Ridge trailhead on a loaded bike rammed home this oversight, one slow crank revolution at a time.

5:30 a.m. - Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead

Five hours clear of the beach I reach the trailhead and meet Pavel and John, who’ve been waiting for me for an hour, since I’m behind schedule. We BS while I repack, filter water and eat leftover pizza. The snow has long since melted from the trailhead, so we hike an hour to the Hogsback before transitioning to skis. The climb is uneventful in the best kind of way. We enjoy the sunny day on a mountain with friends, with views of the Cascades, Olympics, Coast Range and Puget Sound. It doesn't really strike me that I started down there; it feels like two different adventures. There are no dogs chasing me up here.

We’re in no great rush as we make our way up the Coleman Glacier, weaving around crevasses and wondering at ski lines off the Coleman Headwall, Colfax Peak, and the Black Buttes. We stop a few times to shed layers, snack, and continue that 11th essential, more BS-ing.

Our speeds diverge on the Roman Wall and I decide to follow my own pace, resorting to booting as the slope is still a little icy for skinning. A couple hundred feet later, two guys on ski mountaineering race gear pass me and I give chase, suddenly inspired to put my skis back on my feet where they belong. I follow them to the summit, arriving just under 13 hours after leaving Bellingham Bay. I relax and chat with others as they arrive but cannot convince myself to nap. Pavel and John show up about an hour later. We take some pictures and congratulate each other, and they take their own break. I am impatient and ready to go, but recognize they probably felt the same way at the trailhead.

3 p.m. - leaving the summit

Finally, we tour back across the summit crater and then ski the Roman Wall. We stop at the saddle next to Colfax Peak, where they decide to melt water. Once again, I'm anxious, knowing that every minute makes my day that much longer, but I suck it up. These are my friends after all, ones I don't see as often as I'd like, and what a wonderful place to wait, anyway.

The Coleman Glacier skis well. Open crevasses are obvious but sparse; the corn snow is plentiful and consistent. The hike out – well, let’s say I wished I’d done this a month earlier and been able to ski to the trailhead.

I’m still thankful I brought skis, though each step back down the trail squishes my spine infinitesimally shorter.

Back at the cars, I load my gear back onto my bike. Pavel and Jon take their time packing, but I still have a few more hours to go and no daylight to squander. It’s 6:30 p.m. by the time we say goodbye and I point my rig downhill.

The lack of a granny gear is no longer an

issue, though the extreme tail-heaviness of my bike makes the first miles even livelier than they otherwise would be. Thankfully, my small investment in the bike did include good brakes.

The next 40 miles are not so much a blur as a slow transition to tedium. There is no novelty to this anymore and my only goal becomes making it back to the water before sundown.

Myriad cars stream past and I am grateful for the space they give; most of the Mt. Baker Highway is not especially accommodating to cyclists, even if its drivers might be.

Just before Deming, Pavel and Jon drive past after eating what I imagine was a very satisfying meal in Glacier. I dwell on this as I scrape the last crumbs from a greasy sandwich bag.

9:45 p.m. - Bellingham

Finally, I roll back in to the Bellingham city limits. I cruise down Sunset Avenue, then take Cornwall Avenue clear through downtown. I hoist my bike over driftwood and onto the sand at Glass Beach, rolling the tires into the water. The last rays of the sun bend over Lummi Island, a melancholy farewell to a day of constant movement.

Were there any takeaways, revelations, or epiphanies from this trip? To risk sounding uninspired – not really. I was fairly confident (too confident, my wife says) in my success before I started, so finishing was only a respite from pedaling. That said, I am more humbled and inspired by the multitude of potential adventures in this region. We may be limited by time, experience, creativity, or stamina, but never by geography.

x

How to: If an ascent of this style interests you, I recommend you check out the movie “The Mountain Runners” for inspiration and an excellent history of the original Mt. Baker Marathon, which covered a similar route from Bellingham to Mt. Baker, though with the assist of a train and/or cars. (An alternative route was used in that race, which followed the Middle Fork of the Nooksack River to the Easton Glacier. This route is also viable and has certain benefits in that it could be slightly shorter overall, with less time on busy roads.)

The route described, following the highway through Glacier, then up FR39 to the Heliotrope Ridge trail, was around 105 miles, and 14,000' of climbing roundtrip. Lots of reflective clothing and lights are recommended due to the long distance on the Mt. Baker Highway.

If footraces are more your thing, Cascade Mountain Runners stages a race from Concrete to Sherman Peak on Mt. Baker, with the hopes of one day having a full trail route from Bellingham.

In the meantime, there are many variations to get from Bellingham, or wherever your front door happens to be, to the top of Baker. Be creative, be safe, and have fun!

Paradise preserved PERMANENT ACCESS TO GALBRAITH MOUNTAIN SECURED

By Oliver Lazenby Mike Bateman rides Mullet on Galbraith Mountain.

Paul Kelly photo.

I. Evolution

In the past 30 years, Galbraith Mountain has gone from a little-used patch of forest where dirt bikers twisted throttles through overgrown trails, to a mountain bike paradise that’s increasingly cherished by runners and hikers as well.

Changes in ownership and land use agreements and countless hours of volunteer trail work transformed the informally used private timberland. Galbraith’s status as a mountain bike destination isn’t due to its location, on a lumpy green hill southeast of Bellingham, so much as the work of volunteer trail builders and the Whatcom Mountain Bike Coalition (WMBC), a nonprofit advocacy group. And all their work was done without assurance of future access; a change in ownership could have closed the mountain permanently.

The WMBC forged a strong relationship with the current and past owners of the 2,182-acre property, which allowed for trail access, at least on a temporary basis. But WMBC’s goal was to secure permanent access.

Meanwhile, the city of Bellingham kept inching closer to Galbraith Mountain. Homes popped up on its flanks and soaring timber prices led to more logging activity in recent years, opening up million dollar views of Bellingham Bay and the San Juan Islands.

To some, securing access to Galbraith seemed like a race against time.

II. Happy Hour

That race ended this summer – recreation won. The city of Bellingham and Whatcom Land Trust pitched in to purchase recreation and conservation easements from the mountain’s current owner, Galbraith Tree Farm LLC. Those easements will protect about 65 miles of mostly multi-use trails and allow for future trail creation and maintenance on the tree farm. Logging will continue on the mountain.

“The idea that this private timberland is going to be protected is pretty unique. You’re never going to have McMansions up on the mountain,” said Eric Brown, WMBC trail director. “I frankly believe it would have just been a matter

42

of time before development started creeping up that hill.”

The city of Bellingham contributed $2.75 million and Whatcom Land Trust added $250,000, for a total of $3 million to purchase the easements. The organizations, along with Galbraith Tree Farm LLC and the Whatcom Mountain Bike Coalition, are working on a management plan for the property.

III. Cedar Dust

The city of Bellingham, WMBC and Whatcom Land Trust have been working toward such a deal for more than a decade, and came close to an agreement several times.

For Brown, permanent access to Galbraith started to seem possible in about 2011, after Polygon Financial Partners took over the mountain when Trillium Corporation ceded the property in lieu of foreclosure, he said.

Polygon was open to selling recreational easements but the groups couldn’t come to an agreement, Brown said.

“Ultimately they were concerned with liability,” he said.

“We were about a month away from that deal happening and we were so close and then it fell on the floor. We were like, now what?”

Rich Bowers, executive director of Whatcom Land Trust, pointed out that land conservation projects tend to take many years. The land trust has been involved in conserving and purchasing properties throughout the county.

“If you look at environmental projects, the average time to get something accomplished on a permanent basis is probably 6-8 years,” Bowers said. “It’s a marathon and not a sprint.”

A deal seemed possible once again when Rob Janicki, who managed logging operations on Galbraith, expressed interest in buying the property in 2016, Brown said. Janicki, a mountain biker himself, has always worked to allow recreation on the mountain.

“He bought it with the intention of a deal happening,” Brown said.

Galbraith Tree Farm LLC, founded by Janicki, bought the bulk of the property in June 2017. Still, reaching a deal wasn’t easy.

“There were some ups and downs and times when I thought this deal was going to fall through, even as recently as a couple of weeks ago we thought the deal was dead,” Brown said in late July, days after the partners announced the agreement.

Brown and Bowers didn’t elaborate much on the sticking points, saying they no longer matter.

“Ultimately they came together on the terms. It was the deal we were hoping to get all along,” Brown said.

IV. Karma

The new deal with the city will have some impacts for the trail system. WMBC will likely be able to host events on the mountain: Brown envisions everything from industry demo events to bike and running races.

More importantly, WMBC will be eligible for government grants – something it couldn’t get without permanent trail access.

“We’ve been getting private grants but we haven’t been able to secure any public grants and that’s going to be a game changer for us,” Brown said.

It also likely means more permitting and bureaucracy for work on the mountain.

“I think we’ll have to do a few more things like permitting for bridges or bigger projects, but that’s ok. We’ll have an annual plan, we’ll get those projects permitted 3-6 months before they start and we’ll get on it.”

In his years riding on Galbraith, Brown has seen another, more recent change. More and more kids are riding the mountain. Brown frequently sees packs of kids as young as 12 out for a ride, and Brown spends more and more time on the trails with his daughter.

That makes it easier to take a long-term view of the local trails, and that view now includes permanent access to the trails WMBC has worked so hard on for the last 32 years.

“With the ever-increasing popularity of our trails, trail users and the growth in Bellingham, securing access to Galbraith helps maintain this jewel of Whatcom County for all residents forever,” he said.

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

New trails at Lake Whatcom and plans for many more

By Oliver Lazenby

The viewpoint near the top of the Chanterelle Trail. Oliver Lazenby photo.

W

ith the second summer of construction on Lake Whatcom trails nearly done, bikers and hikers will soon be able to see the true recreational potential of the nearly 10,000 acres of new Whatcom County-managed parkland.

By September, the County should be finishing a new 5-mile loop trail that winds from Sudden Valley to the top of Cougar Ridge, south of the lake in the Lookout Mountain Forest Preserve. That multi-use path will serve as a connector trail for future trails in the forest preserve, which is one of two tracts of land the state Department of Natural Resources transferred to Whatcom County in 2014 in a process called reconveyance.

The county finished the first new trail in Lake Whatcom Park, the other parcel, across the lake on Stewart Mountain, last fall. The 2.4-mile mixed-use Chanterelle Trail weaves around steeps and gorges and through second-growth forest to a viewpoint high above the lake. It provides a pleasant alternative path to a destination that previously could only be reached by a walk up a gravel road under buzzing power lines.

The new trails offer a taste of what’s to come; the county’s plan for the parks, which it adopted in October 2016 after two years of planning and community outreach, calls for almost 100 miles of trails.

“It’s a pretty special place,“ said Reid Parker, Whatcom County parks steward. “Feedback about the Chanterelle Trail has been pretty universally wonderful. People are really excited about that trail.”

Together, the two parcels total 8,844 acres, and when combined with other adjacent county land and Galbraith Mountain (to which the city of Bellingham recently secured a recreational easement) make for a 10,000-plus-acre chunk of forest. Ridges in the area reach nearly 3,000 feet above sea level, with views toward the lake and Bellingham Bay in the distance.

The two parks are similar in size to public lands on Chuckanut and Blanchard moun-

tains, a year-round hiking and biking destination that includes the popular Oyster Dome hike. Once finished, the Lake Whatcom parcel will offer a similar experience, Parker said.

“It might not quite have the opportunity for views as the Chuckanuts, but as far as feeling wild and remote while still being in our backyard, it’s really phenomenal,” he said. “Where we’re building this year is so beautiful you can easily forget that you’re so close to town.”

Trails in the parks will all be non-motorized and mostly mixed-use, with some hiker-only trails. The plan also calls for backcountry campsites with raised tent pads in some of the park’s most remote sections. With connections to Galbraith Mountain, some campsites could be reached from downtown Bellingham almost entirely by trail.

The plan doesn’t yet have a timeline, and future construction is contingent on funding.

Parker thinks the county can average about 5 miles of trail per summer.

Trail work so far has been aided by dozens of volunteers and nonprofit groups including Washington Trails Association and Whatcom Mountain Bike Coalition. There’s always room for more help and Whatcom County will have a schedule of work parties for next summer on its website, Parker said.

Though the plans are ambitious, Parker stressed that after this summer both Lake Whatcom Park and Lookout Mountain Forest Preserve will have trails that push into the parks’ scenic terrain.

“This will really get people out there and experiencing more of these huge, existing parks,” he said.

Image courtesy of Whatcom County Parks and Recreation

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Chanterelle Trail

To try out the new Chanterelle Trail, follow North Shore Drive to Lake Whatcom Park. Find a kiosk at the east end of the parking lot with directions to the well-signed trail. It’s a nearly 5-mile outand-back hike to the viewpoint over Lake Whatcom.

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“

To me, the unknown is uncovering for yourself what’s new and exciting. It’s both walking in the footprints of others and creating your own for future generations to follow. It’s pointing on a map and asking, “What is here?” It’s going there to find out because you need to know. Those question marks are invitations, not “do not enter” signs. And mystery is fed by the unknown.

In life, mystery is the glue that binds the best moments together into something memorable.

”

– Photographer Jason Hummel

J

ason Hummel is on a mission to ski every named glacier in Washington state, a quest that’s taken him to some pretty remote places, and some less remote places where skis are a rare sight. In this photo, Jake Chartier walks through the 18-milelong Hoh rainforest valley at the beginning of an eight-day trip to Mt. Olympus that included skiing 10 separate glaciers, six of which Hummel hadn’t skied before.

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | FALL 2018 MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

AvAlAnche courses

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FALL 2018 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

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Field of Fun for the kids

Friday, Sept. 21

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