Mount Baker Experience, Spring 2017

SPRING 2017

ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

MountBakerExperience.com

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SPRING 2017

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

EXPO

RECREATION NORTHWEST

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Explore Washington’s outdoor recreation opportunities to find new ways to get outside and play.

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Olympic Peninsula campfire. Beau Gaughran photo.

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE Special publication of The Northern Light PUBLISHERS Patrick Grubb and Louise Mugar

CONTRIBUTORS CONTRIBUTORS

EDITOR Oliver Lazenby PUBLICATION DESIGN Doug De Visser COPY EDITOR Kara Furr OFFICE MANAGER Amy Weaver STAFF WRITERS Stefanie Donahue ADVERTISING DESIGN Ruth Lauman • Doug De Visser

ADVERTISING SALES Catherine Darkenwald • Janet McCall Molly Ernst • Judy Fjellman CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE: Brad Andrew, Patrick Beggan, Amelia Bethke, Brian Chapel, Anne Cleary, Mallorie Estenson, Brandon Fralic, Steve Gadingan, Beau Gaughran, Amy Gibson, Jason Griffith, Jason Hummel, Maya Hunger, Aubrey Laurence, Jason D. Martin, Eric Mickelson, Tyler Mitchell, Jefferson Morriss, Andy Porter, Luca Williams EMAIL: info@mountbakerexperience.com WEB: www.mountbakerexperience.com FACEBOOK: facebook.com/mtbakerexperience INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/mtbakerexp If you can see Mt. Baker, you’re part of the experience. Mount Baker Experience is a quarterly outdoor recreation magazine for and about the Mt. Baker region, distributed from Seattle to Vancouver, B.C. and published by Point Roberts Press, Inc. Locally owned, the company also publishes The Northern Light, All Point Bulletin, Pacific Coast Weddings, Waterside and area maps.

Vol. XXXI, No. 1. Printed in Canada. ©2017 POINT ROBERTS PRESS 225 Marine Drive, Blaine, WA 98230 TEL: 360/332-1777 NEXT ISSUE Summer 2017 • Out late May Ad reservation deadine: April 22 ON THE COVER Adam McCoy rolls off a rock deep in the woods in Skagit County.

Brad Andrew photo SPRING 2017

ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

MBE Spring 2017

bradANDREW

Brad Andrew is a Bellingham-based freelance action sports photographer. He spends his winters chasing the snow looking for the perfect spot to make the perfect image. He is a husband, father and a student of life.

ameliaBETHKE Amelia is a local trail worker and outdoor enthusiast who spends much of her time constructing, maintaining and running the trails of Whatcom County.

brianCHAPEL Brian is a passionate outdoors man and loves to photograph everything around him. He grew up in Colorado, but now lives in Bellingham with his wife and two dogs. brianchapelphotography.com

anneCLEARY An always-say-yes attitude and a passion for storytelling through media brought Anne to Bellingham. She has employed filmmaking and photography to document and share adventure.

mallorieESTENSON Mallorie Estenson is a climber, writer and photographer based in Bellingham. She lives her life on the cusp of being considered a dirtbag, and likes it that way.

brandonFRALIC Based in Bellingham, Brandon writes about Pacific Northwest trails, ales and travel for a handful of regional publications. brandonfralic.com

stevenGADINGAN Steven spent five years wrenching at the Hub Community Bike Shop and five years shredding with the Wetboyz. Now living in Seattle, he’s Recycle & Reuse Coordinator at Bike Works.

beauGAUGHRAN Beau is a Bellingham-based freelance photographer from Maine. He moved here last summer for the incredible whitewater, year-round splitboarding, and mountain playgrounds where he practices his craft.

amyGIBSON Amy Gibson loves learning about all the edible and medicinal plants she can find in Whatcom County.

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SPRING 2017

jasonGRIFFITH

Based in Mount Vernon, Jason is a fisheries biologist, member of Skagit Mountain Rescue, husband and father of two young boys. Accidents aren’t allowed when he heads to the hills with the Choss Dawgs.

jasonHUMMEL Jason is an outdoor photographer from Washington who has documented numerous first descents in the North Cascades.

Alpinestateofmind.com

mayaHUNGER Maya is a Washingtonian who likes type 2 fun and human-powered sports. Writing for various publications makes her feel like she is contributing to society while spending the majority of her time far in the backcountry.

jasonMARTIN Jason is a mountain guide, general manager at American Alpine Institute and a widely published outdoor writer. He lives in Bellingham with his wife and two young children.

ericMICKELSON Eric is an outdoor photographer and restoration ecologist who is always willing to drop everything for a good adventure outside. He lives in Bellingham with his wife and daughter. ericmickelson.com

tylerMITCHELL If he’s not busy shooting a wedding, Tyler is either coaching track at Mt. Baker High School, fly fishing or running up a mountain. He’s currently sponsored by Icebug Shoes & Fairhaven Runners. TMitchellPhoto.com

jeffersonMORRISS Jefferson Morriss is a Sequim-based photographer. After relocating to Washington state in 2001 from the mean streets of Bismarck, North Dakota, he picked up his first camera and never looked back.

andyPORTER Andy Porter’s love of the outdoors began at 16 during a month-long Outward Bound program in the Sawtooth Wilderness of Idaho. He’s a full-time photographer living in Sedro-Woolley. Andyporterimages.com

lucaWILLIAMS Luca Williams is a certified rolfer in Glacier.

She helps snowboarders, skiers and other outdoor enthusiasts get aligned and out of pain.

Website: lucasrolfing.com Blog: movingwithgravity.wordpress.com

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

by Pat Grubb

A

The link between beer and exercise

Brandon Fralic photo

INSPIRATION ON FOOT

WAPTA TRAVERSE

Kristen Ingman’s trailscapes

Ski touring in the Canadian Rockies

14 POSTCARD

20 BANKED SLALOM

Spring in Southeast Washington

18 SNOWBOARD STRETCHES

41

Oliver Lazenby photo

to never miss a day of riding

Why the right shoes are important Where to stay and eat

Tribute to a legend

THE QUEST

Sleep under the stars

34 DINING AND LODGING

Running rim to rim to rim

44 RANDY HOOK

Captured moments

30 CLIMBING FOOTWEAR

Canada’s gateway to the Cascades

28 CAR CAMPING

CHILL IN CHILLIWACK

38 GRAND CANYON RUN

Full gallery online

22 PHOTO GALLERY

Recovery for sideways sliders

SHUKSAN Official Mascot of Mount Baker Experience

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35 FOREST FORAGING

Albert Arth photo

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BEERS WELL EARNED

Jason Griffith photo

s I write, Mt. Baker stands proud in a bluebird sky the day after a Legendary Banked Slalom that seemed like it might not happen.

High winds, heavy snow and toppled trees closed the highway from Glacier to the ski area until the day before the race – who knew what would happen? But the WSDOT crews went to work as they always do and, sure enough, the 31st LBS was a great success. Thanks, WSDOT! While there’s still plenty of riding yet to do, the sunshine brings up thoughts of other pursuits, like foraging in the forests or camping under the stars or just drinking some beers with good friends. This issue is packed with ideas and activities that should inspire you to get out and get busy.

Feeling energetic? Try running the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim like Amelia Bethke and two friends did.

How about ski touring the Wapta Traverse in the Canadian Rockies?

Are your quads starting to burn at the very thought?

Well, try chilling in Chilliwack, a great getaway in the Fraser Valley.

Or how about a little car camping?

Whatever, just get out there and move those muscles.

Sadly, a couple of larger than life personalities have gone over the ridge. Well-known to readers of the Mount Baker Experience, the inspiring skier Adam Roberts was killed in an avalanche while skiing out of bounds by the White Pass Ski Area – his thrilling lines will not soon be forgotten... Real close to home, longtime Baker habitué Randy Hook died on his snowmobile while working at Mt. Baker, doing what he loved until the last minute. You can’t ask for more than that, can you?

Eric Mickelson photo

Spring 2017

Publisher’s NOTE

Spring foraging primer

36 EVENTS

Schedule some spring fun

CAR-FREE SKI TO SEA More than just a race

SPRING 2017 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

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Yoga in the brewery at Aslan Brewing Company.

Photo courtesy of Aslan.

BEERS WELL EARNED The deep ties between local beer and outdoor culture.

Bellingham breweries embrace outdoor recreation, outdoor enthusiasts embrace breweries

BY AUBREY LAURENCE

F

or many outdoor enthusiasts, it’s almost assumed that after a day of adventure, beers will be shared at a local brewpub. Look outside of any brewery in Bellingham and you’ll likely see a full bike rack and cars topped with muddy mountain bikes, icy skis and wet kayaks. Inside, you’ll find wind-chapped cheeks, spandex shorts and weathered hiking boots.

Regardless of your preferred outdoor activity, there’s something special about enjoying some brews afterward – whether they’re celebratory or consolatory.

“Beer brings people together and makes us take a moment to relax and converse about how fun the event was, or how great the ride was, or how epic the hike was,” said David Vitt, Kulshan Brewing’s founder and general manager. “Beer seems to be a universal conduit for conversation, enjoyment

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SPRING 2017

and relaxation. It’s a way to decompress, process, appreciate and laugh.”

Physiologically speaking, because beer is cool, crisp and carbonated, it’s an excellent thirst quencher. A 2007 study concluded that beer is better at rehydrating the body after exercise than water. Researchers from Granada University in Spain suspect that the sugars, salts and carbonation in beer help people absorb fluids more quickly, and the carbohydrates in beer also help to replace lost calories.

This symbiotic relationship between outdoor recreation and craft beer isn’t necessarily new or unique to the Northwest, but local breweries have embraced this culture by hosting endless events and fundraisers that benefit the recreation community.

Even the city’s newest breweries are outdoors-minded:

Stones Throw Brewing is essentially named after its location, which is just a stone’s throw from adventures on the water or in the mountains; Structures Brewing donated a portion of its first canned IPA sales to a local mountain biking nonprofit organization; and Gruff Brewing features an outdoor beer garden with lawn games and a sweeping view of Bellingham Bay.

KULSHAN BREWING Kulshan Brewing supports a slew of outdoors-related organizations and events, including Ski to Sea, Bellingham Traverse, Bellingham Mountain Rescue, Snohomish County Helicopter Rescue, Northwest Avalanche Center, Skagit Alpine Club, Washington Trails Association, Whatcom Mountain Bike Coalition and the Mount Baker Ultra Marathon.

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Boundary Bay Brewery general manager Janet Lightner on a trek in Nepal.

Photo courtesy of Boundary Bay Brewery.

Kulshan also sponsors Fanatik Bike Team, Trailhead Athletics, Queens of Dirt and Kulshan’s own soccer, volleyball, bowling and hockey teams.

Vitt admits he supports these types of events and teams partly for selfish reasons, because he and many employees are avid outdoor enthusiasts. But he mainly does it because of how important these organizations are to the Bellingham community.

“Many of these events are actually fundraisers for nonprofit organizations that need funding, like the Max Higbee Center, the Whatcom Dispute Resolution Center, The Opportunity Council and many others,” he said. “Plus, recreation enthusiasts are also our customers, and we like to give back whenever possible.”

WANDER BREWING Wander Brewing’s owners Chad and Colleen Kuehl are quick to tout the mental and physical benefits of exploring the environment outside, which partially explains why they named their brewery Wander.

“Drinking a handcrafted beer at the end of a physical activity just simply feels good,” Chad said. “The carbohydrates and calories don’t hurt either, and a little bit of alcohol helps the body to relax.”

Since opening in 2014, Wander Brewing has supported or sponsored teams in a variety of outdoors-related organizations and events, including Washington Wild’s Brewshed Alliance, Ski to Sea, Bellingham Traverse, the Chuckanut 50k and more. It also hosts its own annual Wander to Wander 1K road race.

BOUNDARY BAY BREWERY Perhaps as Bellingham’s oldest brewery, Boundary Bay paved the way for the connection between breweries and adventure sports.

Boundary Bay is a Bellingham institution that supports or participates in pretty much every outdoor event and race in the area, including the Max Higbee Fun Run, Bellingham Traverse, Ski to Sea, Ragnar, Tour de Whatcom, Bellingham Bay Marathon and a host of others.

Owner Ed Bennett and general manager Janet Lightner believe in the benefits of getting outside, celebrating where we live and giving back to the community. The company has a robust health and wellness program for its 125 employees that encourages them to live a healthy lifestyle, and it includes in-house yoga, hiking and running clubs and covered race-entry fees.

The brewery also hosts numerous events to help raise awareness and funds for outdoorsand environment-related nonprofits such as Sustainable Connections, Community Boating Center, Whatcom Land Trust and Kulshan Community Land Trust. Boundary Bay Brewery even brews two seasonal beers to help encompass the spirit of the outdoors.

“Our Ski to Sea ESB spring seasonal is the ‘eighth leg’ of the historic seven-leg Ski to Sea race,” said Lightner. “We also partner with Recreation Northwest to brew Traverse Red for the annual multi-sport Traverse race, which celebrates the journey of wild salmon.”

Lightner said great adventures are best shared with others on the trail, followed by shared pints.

“Beer refreshes us and it opens up the conversation to plan another adventure,” she said.

SPRING 2017 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

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Keland Hawks enjoying a trailside beer.

Eric Mickelson photo.

ASLAN BREWING Aslan Brewing’s support of outdoor events and fundraisers, as well as its concern for the health of its employees and the environment in general, make it an exemplar in the brewing community. Owner and CEO Jack Lamb’s support for active lifestyles shows in Aslan’s employee wellness program, which pays for team fees (for soccer, softball, basketball and bowling), hosts free yoga classes in the brewery and offers a reduced membership rate to Vital bouldering gym.

Aslan also frequently hosts fundraisers for outdoors organizations such as Whatcom Mountain Bike Coalition and Northwest Avalanche Center, and it often hosts movie premieres that highlight snow sports, mountain biking, fly fishing, whitewater rafting and more.

“With every event we do, we find ways to connect a nonprofit and raise funds, whether it’s through raffles, silent auc-

tions or a percentage of our night’s sales,” Lamb says. “One of the major reasons why I chose to live in Bellingham was because of its access to a wide range of world-class outdoor activities. We must embrace this as a Bellingham-based business and understand that we have the ability to help preserve its beauty.”

CHUCKANUT BREWERY Chuckanut Brewery, along with Aslan, was among the first breweries in America to sign the Brewery Climate Declaration, showing its commitment to reduce emissions, use less energy, choose clean energy, invest in new technologies and call for strong national action to address climate change.

Chuckanut has also been a longtime member of Sustainable Connections, a Bellingham-based nonprofit that helps businesses work toward sustainability.

“We have been members since we opened because recy-

cling, being conscious of our energy use and our emissions are big factors in the future of our earth,” said Chuckanut co-owner Mari Kemper. “We are responsible to help keep our planet healthy for future generations.”

Chuckanut Brewery is also involved in a variety of outdoors-related events, including the Enduro of Subdued Excitement Bike Race and Shoot the Trails with WMBC, and it’s working to get its new “South Nut” brewery in Skagit County involved with races there.

BUT IS IT HEALTHY? The link between craft beer and recreation may go beyond culture and actually be rooted in biology. Studies have shown that people who exercise tend to also drink, and vice versa.

Last year, a survey by The Harris Poll found that regular craft beer drinkers have a healthier lifestyle and exercise more than the average beer/wine/spirits drinker.

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Boundary Bay Brewery women’s Ski to Sea team.

Photo courtesy of Boundary Bay.

In a 2015 study published in Health Psychology, researchers at Pennsylvania State University found a strong correlation between exercising and subsequent drinking, especially when people exercised more than usual. A followup study using lab rodents, published in Frontiers in Psychiatry, found that both exercise and alcohol increased brain activity related to reward processing. This led some to suggest that we crave alcohol after physical activity as a way of extending our “runner’s high.”

Countless studies have also shown a link between moderate beer consumption and health. In 2016, a large-scale study presented at the American Heart Association Scientific Sessions in New Orleans showed that moderate alcohol consumption – especially of beer – significantly slows the natural decline of HDL (i.e., “good cholesterol”) levels as we age. In some cases, it may even increase good cholesterol, which is associated with a decreased risk of cardiovascular disease, heart attack and stroke.

Of course, most of these studies define “moderate drinking” as one or two beers a day, and they always caution against excessive drinking. But staying active may even neutralize the impacts of heavy drinking. A 2016 study in the British Journal of Sports Medicine found that regular activity moderated or nearly nullified the increased risk of death from heavy drinking.

Beyond the benefits of the alcohol itself, phytochemicals in beer

have been widely reported for their protective effect in disease development and a lower rate of many common conditions, including Alzheimer’s disease, diabetes, osteoporosis, hypertension, kidney stones, cataracts, heart disease and stroke. Additionally, flavonoids found in hops, especially xanthohumol, are believed to help prevent different cancers.

Bellingham nonprofit Recreation Northwest has a new initiative that focuses on the health benefits of spending time in nature.

That doesn’t mean the organization shies away from beer at its events. Recreation Northwest promotes outdoor recreation, and beer has gone a long way in aiding its mission.

Todd Elsworth, co-executive director of Recreation Northwest, saw the link between beer and exercise early on. Elsworth believes recreation and play have the elements of community, and beer brings it all together.

All of Recreation Northwest’s events and fundraisers are tied to local breweries in one way or another, including Recreation Northwest EXPO, trail-work parties, networking events, and races. For Elsworth, a well-earned beer is a part of the whole.

“It’s the social element of raising a pint, toasting your teammates and congratulating the competition on a job well done,” he said. “It’s the time when memories are shared and made. It’s about celebrating together, and beer is the medium that connects us.”

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“Hockney Baker Lake”

I STORY AND PHOTO BY STEFANIE DONAHUE

BRUSHES & TRAILS Bellingham artist finds inspiration on foot

“Galbraith Mist”

t takes more than a set of oil paints and the right brush for Pacific Northwest painter Kristen Ingman to create a new work of art. First, she straps on a pair of running shoes and sets forth on an artistic pursuit by trail, in search of the next alluring scene.

The winding curves, distinct shadows and rich green hues of Pacific Northwest trails have come to inspire Ingman’s signature series, “Places I Run.” The majority of the collection is oil on canvas paintings, most depicting a deliberate pathway that naturally carries the eye through a lush landscape.

“The light and shadows are always really interesting to me,” Ingman said about the trailside scenes she encounters on daily morning jaunts. “I only paint places that I’ve actually been.”

Well before most have had their first sip of morning coffee, Ingman is out traversing trails close to her home in Bellingham. Her series pulls from imagery found on paths forged along the Chuckanuts, Lake Padden and Galbraith Mountain — other pieces reflect on scenes from trails in the Methow Valley, on the east side of the Cascades.

“My art and my running out in nature are the times I feel most at peace,” she said. “It’s a bit of a meditative experience.”

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Ingman is married and a mother of two boys. Five days a week, she divides her day between work as a part-time high school ceramics instructor and her waterfront artist studio in Bellingham, where she’s often found painting a scene from her latest excursion.

At age 50, Ingman has been making art for most of her life. She recalls creating artwork with her grandma and making her first painting at age 6. Since then, she’s developed her own aesthetic and mastered the art of mixing the perfect shade of green, or what she calls the epitome of northwest color.

Ingman has an undergraduate degree in studio art from Whitman College and a master’s in secondary education from Western Washington University. She draws inspiration from artists David Hockney and Wolf Kahn, both of whom are notorious for breaking the rules, she said.

Whether it be through abstract use of color or manipulated proportions, an artist’s ability to make the mundane a bit more interesting is really what compels her.

“It doesn’t have to be this crazy image that no one has seen before,” she said. “It can be any Kristen Ingman is based in place, but it’s what the artist brings to it — it Bellingham, Washington. She’s makes me excited.” shown her work at locations It’s a message Ingman seems to carry with her throughout Whatcom County, into the classroom as she teaches high schoolers including Harris Avenue Cafe, how to craft clay into creations of their own. She Boundary Bay Brewery, Coloencourages them to value a strong work ethic, phon Cafe and Fairhaven Rundiscipline and the concept of thoughtful expression. And without a doubt, she said, they should ners, among others. To learn learn how to break the rules. more about her work, visit As an artist, she said, “You can really do what kristeningmanart.com you want.”

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m

ro f s g n i Greet

A L L A W A L L A W Road in the Blue Mountains east of e are bumping along Jasper Mountain s the vehicle to a stop. A great grey Walla Walla when our guide, Mike, slow the woods. “You guys have got to see owl flew overhead and disappeared into !” His enthusiasm is contagious – his face,” Mike assures us. “It’s incredible vehicle as idered birding until now. We stay in the especially to someone who’s never cons directed, awaiting instruction.

Walla Denny is an expert on all things wild in Characterized by his love of nature, Mike tify iden can peak in the Blue Mountains, and he Walla. Point out a bird, wildflower, tree or ion. caut l ectfu resp out of the car, we do so with it. When Mike invites us to quietly step in the forest canopy. We never find it. away en Silently we search for the owl, hidd on a our picnic perch are vast. We are sitting At lunchtime, Blue Mountain views from 80 It’s w. belo feet 800 e som r, Rive h Fork Touchet hillside overlooking the spring-fed Sout

W

POSTCAR DS

Reports from the highways and hinterlands

kets y from us a mosaic of grass and trees blan degrees and sunny. Directly across the valle ds. clou e whit puffy of layer a with rated s, deco the mountains and blue sky spreads for mile He’s ing.

Mike announces another wildlife sight I’m munching away contentedly when Mike is p cannot even make out the tiny speck pretty sure it’s a bear. The rest of our grou gh, it’s enou sure and y. He sets up a spotting scope, pointing at, nearly a mile across the valle moth its join to bling out of a nearby tree, scram a cinnamon-red black bear. A cub tumbles . table vege us famo a’s Wall a Wall bears can resist er in digging for wild onions. Not even the boa er rubb a g eyein , head over ing d hawk circl Farther along we encounter a red-taile over essed an enormous black raven soaring witn I day, ious prev The . road coiled up in the know you if the southeast corner of Washington, Palouse Falls. Wildlife is everywhere in idering out on the trails. As for me, I’m still cons get where to look. Find a good guide and ” call. a me give “Just cougars out here,” he says, Mike’s final offer: “If you ever want to see

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Experiencing Canada’s Mount Baker on

THE

WAPTA TRAVERSE STORY AND PHOTOS BY JASON GRIFFITH

The group looks out toward Mt. Hector, in Banff National Park.

W

hen we reached our destination we’d been on the go since before first light, trying to beat the forecasted afternoon warmth that could activate avalanche chutes along our route. We had skied across a large lake, up a narrow valley and across several miles of icefield. If we were in the Cascades, it would be time to dig a platform, pitch a tent and start melting snow.

But we weren’t in the Cascades. We were arriving at the Peyto Hut in the Canadian Rockies, after the first of six days skiing along the British Columbia and Alberta border, just northwest of Lake Louise. As the sun arced west, we kicked our boots off and sat on the deck hydrating, looking across the expanse of the Wapta Icefield and making plans for the next day’s summits. We could get used to this!

Known as the Wapta Traverse, the 28-mile route weaves along the Continental Divide, starting at Peyto Lake in Banff National Park and finishing at the Trans-Canada Highway in Yoho National Park. The route is mostly on the glaciers of the Wapta and Waputik Icefields at elevations over 8,000 feet. The Alpine Club of Canada maintains four huts on the route, spaced about a 4- to 6-hour ski apart, that can be reserved months in advance ($30 Canadian for ACC members).

Each hut has its own character, from the unheated, one-room Scott Duncan to the sprawling Bow hut with two wood stoves and an attached outhouse. They’re all insulated and equipped with mattresses, propane lights and stoves, and everything you need to cook and eat. This means a weeklong ski trip can be done with a pack the size you’d typically take on a summer weekend climb in the Cascades.

An efficient team blessed by good weather could complete the Wapta in four comfortable days. We budgeted seven, mainly to allow for bad weather, since the Wapta is known for changing conditions and strong storms. Our group’s previous experience along the traverse indicated that we’d be lucky to climb half of what we wanted to, and the avalanche forecast wasn’t exactly favorable. On long, committing trips like the Wapta, with avalanche, glacier and terrain hazards, watching conditions and being flexible is paramount. Coming out earlier or in a different location than planned can make the difference between a good or very bad outcome.

But first we had some logistics to work out.

The Peyto Lake trailhead is a 10- or 11-hour drive from the north Puget Sound, and the traverse’s exit is about 35 road miles from the start. For most, this means staying somewhere near Lake Louise the night before the

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traverse (Hosteling International’s Lake Louise Alpine Centre is simple and affordable) and leaving a vehicle at the exit.

Those details out of the way, our group of five Skagitonians started from the shoulder of Highway 93 early on April 17, armed with the knowledge that a heat wave was about to crash upon the Wapta. This presented a different avalanche problem than we were anticipating – loose, wet avalanches – but meant that it could be mitigated with early starts and stops.

The snow was melting out at lower elevations and we had to take skis on and off several times as we worked our way from the frozen lake to the terminal moraine leading to the Wapta Icefield. The beautiful weather made for pleasant travel, allowing ample time to admire the expansive valleys, extensive glaciation, and layered geology for which the Canadian Rockies are known. We were a bit nervous about the last day of the traverse, but we pushed that to the back of our minds and enjoyed our arrival to the high alpine.

Day two dawned clear and bright and we were up before the sun to ski over to Mount Baker (yes, they have one too!), hoping to get up and down before the snow softened dangerously. As we kicked steps up the steep and exposed ridge line, the Rockies stretched out far to the north and south. To

the west, the Interior ranges of British Columbia faded into the blue haze of distance, all wearing a thick mantle of snow and ice. There were more peaks than most of us had ever seen from one mountain, and few that we could name. As we crested the summit we were faced with Mount Balfour (10,735'), the highest peak on the Waputik icefield and the elusive prize of the traverse. Would the weather hold for a few more days?

We returned to our skis near Baker and descended back to the icefield on softening corn. The day was not yet hot and we felt that we had time to skin up the north ridge of Mount Habel, which would put us in position for a nice fall line descent back to the Peyto hut in the early afternoon. The exposed ridge treated us to more impressive views, including our tracks on Baker and, miles away, a handful of other parties looking like dots as they traveled along the skin track.

Back at the hut we had ample time to rest, dry our boots, and eat as much as we possibly could (lighten the packs, eh?). Hut life, without most of the electronic distractions that clutter our modern lives, allows for the sort of deep and free flowing conversations that don’t often happen. The mountains are good at stripping away class or social barriers; everyone has paid the same price to sit around the table to-

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gether and there’s a sense of camaraderie that you don’t get when you bump into someone at a dinner party. Mix in a few total strangers, perhaps a bit of whiskey, and you tend to find out some surprising things about each other and the world, especially if your hut mates happen to be emergency room nurses!

The perfect weather continued and days three, four and five were a repeat of our second day, with the exception that we slept in a different hut each night. Along the way we climbed Rhonnda (10,000'), St. Nicholas (9,639'), Mt. Olive (10,270') and even Mount Balfour – all moderately steep (to 45 degrees) snow climbs with glacier travel. On the ascent of Balfour, a hut-sized serac collapsed and thundered down behind us just as we were clearing the icefall below the Balfour high col. Whew! We saw first-hand why the climb to the col is not to be underestimated, especially in poor weather. It’s been the site of several deaths and serious accidents. Thankfully our descent from the summit to the Scott Duncan hut was fairly boring in comparison, though we did notice wisps of high clouds streaming in from the west.

As day six dawned it was obvious that the fantastic weather was about to break down in a big way. Torrential rain loomed on the horizon and the attraction of the rest day built into

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our itinerary was defeated by the realization that a warm storm could torpedo our chances for an orderly exit. And so down, down, down we went on increasingly wet and unpredictable snow. By the time we got to Sherbrooke Lake 3,000 feet below, the sun had come back out, only to illuminate that the lake was in less than ideal shape.

Large aquamarine puddles covered its surface. Kit was first out on the ice and he promptly broke through, soaking his boots. Scott and Steve eventually found a way out onto thicker ice (we really didn’t want to work around the cliffy shoreline). This was a very good time to be at the back of the line as the lead guinea pigs sloshed around on the disintegrating surface of the lake. Eventually we all made it, which called for an extra share of chocolate as we squeezed the water out of our socks.

We soon ran out of snow south of Sherbrooke Lake and resorted to carrying the skis for long stretches, clambering over tangled pines. The hum of the highway indicated that we were close though, and a little less than six hours after leaving the Scott Duncan hut we were toasting the trip with Scotch and wearing clean cotton.

We couldn’t help but marvel at our luck with the weather. We had been able to stand on every peak on our list, taking in the special ruggedness and isolation that very few, if any, hut-to-hut tours can offer. No chairlifts, few people, huge icefields and soaring summits – the Wapta Traverse is certainly one of the premier backcountry ski tours in the world. As we drove west toward Revelstoke that afternoon, the skies opened up and it rained all the way to the border.

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ADDITIONAL NOTES: Maps: Summit and Icefields Map - Wapta Icefields and Bow Summit Guidebook: Summits and Icefields 1, Chic Scott and Mark Klassen.

Hut Reservations: Huts can be reserved months in advance from the Alpine Club of Canada ($30 Canadian for ACC members).

Gear: Alpine touring, telemark or splitboard gear. Glacier travel, crevasse rescue and avalanche equipment.

Ski crampons. Boot crampons and ice axe if going for steeper summits like Baker, Balfour or St. Nicholas. 20-30°F sleeping bag. Hut shoes/down booties.

Clothing matched to the season/forecast. GPS or location enabled phone loaded with a topo app and waypoints of route/huts (very important in bad weather).

Other info: $20 CDN parking fee required for the parking lot at the Great Divide Lodge, at the end of the traverse.

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WHEN YOU’RE DONE RIDING SIDEWAYS,

TRY THIS

How to unwind after snowboarding

BY LUCA WILLIAMS

Cameron Hamilton in the Mt. Baker backcountry.

Brad Andrew photo.

D

o you remember your first days learning to snowboard?

I started with farm boots and my boyfriend’s 161-centimeter snowboard (did I mention that I am only 5'4"?). The bindings didn’t even cinch tight around my boots. After a few humiliating days, I bought myself some new snowboard boots and drove my buddy, Ira Urie, up to a small ski area in Wisconsin. We got to the top of the lift and all of a sudden Ira said, “See ya,” and took off, leaving me at the top of the lift to really learn to snowboard.

So there I was at the top of the hill, catching my heel edge and falling right on my butt over and over again, too nervous to transfer my weight onto my toe-side edge. Finally, I became courageous enough to make a toeside turn. After many hours of hard work and concentration, I began to link turns and it felt like heaven. Soon after, I began “flying” down the mountain, when suddenly … whack – toe-side turn gone wrong, face plant, scorpion, whiplash. I know you snowboarders can feel my pain and laugh with me. I sure wish I knew then how and what to stretch after those crashes.

Another kind of neck pain can arise due to the asymmetry of snowboarding. As you are riding downhill you must turn your head right or left depending on your stance.

When you constantly turn your head right (for goofy footers), the muscles that contract keep getting stronger while the muscles that stretch keep stretching and stretching for hours every day. Slowly, after years of snowboarding, your head stays turned ever so slightly.

Snowboarding is not the only asymmetrical activity; daily life comprises a multitude of activities that are not symmetrical. There’s nothing wrong with that, so long as we practice awareness and unwind afterward. The following activity is to build that awareness.

After that, try some stretches that help the muscles and fascia of your head, neck and spine to return home after snowboarding, scorpions and whiplash.

you turn your head right. Feel how the shoulder blade moves away from the spine (this is a very subtle motion that you can feel at the very end). These are the muscles that overstretch.

Now, place your right hand gently on the left side of the front of your neck. Feel how a muscle pops up into your hand as you turn right. This is a muscle that contracts to turn your head right. Now ask yourself how much you love snowboarding and how many hours you have spent turning in this direction toward the fall line. Eventually your head, neck and shoulder blade get the idea that you want them that way even when you aren’t snowboarding.

BUILDING AWARENESS (The following directions are for goofy footers; reverse directions for regular footers.)

Put your right hand gently on your left shoulder between the shoulder blade and the spine and notice what happens when

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NECK STRETCHES 1) One of the most simple neck stretches you can do for yourself anywhere and everywhere is to just simply turn your head right and left. If you are a goofy-footer, spend more time turning left and looking left. If you are regular, turn and look right more often. Do this gently without the intention of stretching hard. You are just trying to remind your nervous system, muscles and fascia that you want to turn both directions.

An active lifestyle

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2) Place your hands crossed on your chest right below your collarbones. Gently hold the skin down as you look up to the sky. Now move your hands over to the right and side bend your head left while lifting your chin to the sky. Do the opposite, move your hands to the left side, then side bend your head right and lift your chin to the sky. This stretch really gets some of the muscles of the front of the neck that we ignore while begging our friends to rub our neck and shoulders.

While you are stretching, notice where you get more pain. But more importantly, notice which movements are more restricted.

These are the muscles that really need stretching.

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31ST ANNUAL LEGENDARY BANKED SLALOM Terje Håkonsen tucks into the first turn in the men’s finals at the 31st Legendary Banked Slalom on Sunday, February 12. Check out our full coverage and gallery online at mountbakerexperience.com. Beau Gaughran photo.

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CHILL OUT IN CHILLIWACK, BC A weekend guide to the Cascades’ northern outpost STORY AND PHOTOS BY BRANDON FRALIC

N

ot every outdoor adventure needs to be hardcore. This spring, between backcountry skiing in winter and summer’s high alpine explorations, consider taking a break to simply chill. No summit bagging, turn earning or backpacking – just take a leisurely weekend to hike low-elevation trails, cruise scenic bike paths, and enjoy local craft brews. It’s all there in Chilliwack, B.C. The drive in from Bellingham or Vancouver is relatively short (1 hour, 15 minutes in good conditions) and couldn’t be more straightforward; set the cruise control and head east on B.C. Highway 1. Mt. Baker looms to the south and the Canadian Cascades rise up all around as you enter the Fraser Valley. Home to over 900 farms, the valley is an agricultural mecca and a literal breath of fresh air for those traveling from the big city.

Begin your Chilliwack weekend with a not-too-strenuous hike up Teapot Hill. The trail begins near the shore of Cultus Lake, and gains elevation slowly but steadily up an old forest road. At 1 mile (1.6 km), a signed junction guides you uphill to the right. Here, the hike truly begins. As you transition from forest road to dirt trail, keep an eye out for those namesake teapots. They could be everywhere or they could be nowhere – some trip reporters have counted up to 50 on a single day, while others claim to see none at all. It’s a mysterious phenomenon.

The story goes that in the 1940s, a logger discovered a teapot on this 1,181-foot (360-meter) hill. The name stuck, and in recent years users have taken the liberty of decorating the trail with teapots. It’s a fun hike for kids, no doubt, but litter concerns have prompted Cultus Lake Provincial Park to clean up the area. Be respectful and don’t add any pots to this tea party. At the top of Teapot Hill, enjoy views over Cultus Lake and the Columbia Valley before heading back to town.

If you’re staying downtown, check out Chilliwack’s newest brewery. Chaos & Solace is housed in a lofty historic building with exposed brick walls. Brews worth trying include the flagship Luckakuck Kölsch and Lakeside Hefe-Weisse.

Chaos & Solace is located one short block from The Royal Hotel, perhaps the best place to stay in downtown Chilliwack. Established in 1908, this boutique hotel offers antique furnishings and a whole lot of history. Head down to the attached bar (Wilde Oscar’s) for a nightcap before returning to your room for the ultimate chillout: a soak in a claw-foot tub.

If you prefer camping, B.C. Parks offers four campgrounds at Cultus Lake, which all open for the season on March 31.

Check out Delta Bay and Maple Grove for easy access to Teapot Hill and other hiking trails. Be aware that Cultus Lake is one of the most popular provincial parks in B.C. Activities include swimming, fishing, paddle sports and boating. For a relaxed camping experience, try Chilliwack Lake Provin-

cial Park. This park offers both car/RV and backcountry camping.

A good option for a second day in the far North Cascades is to head east along B.C. Highway 1 to Bridal Veil Falls Provincial Park. The sixth-tallest waterfall in Canada, Bridal Veil Falls is bound to be busy on weekends. The park closes seasonally during winter and reopens in April; check with B.C. Parks before making the drive out. Once you arrive, a short loop trail leads out to the impressive 60-meter falls.

Flows should be excellent in spring. Pack a lunch to take advantage of picnic tables throughout the park.

If you were visiting in summer, I’d recommend a hike up Elk Mountain or Mount Cheam. But in spring the snow lingers and it’s all about chillaxing in Chilliwack. Instead, bring your bike or rent some wheels for a riverside cruise on the Vedder River Rotary Trail. This 5-mile (8 km) gravel trail is flat, easily accessible year-round, and also great for walking and jogging.

When you’ve had your fill of leisurely outings, Old Yale Brewing is your best bet for a dialed-in pint near the river.

On the Canadian brew scene since 1999, they’ve created a bevy of beloved brews over the years including Sasquatch Stout – named “Beer of the Year” at the Canadian Brewing Awards in 2014. You can’t go wrong with Old Yale’s solid lineup of IPAs, lighter brews and seasonals. Try the Screaming Banshee Irish Cream Stout – if you can find it.

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TEAPOT HILL Length: 3.4 miles (5.5 km) round-trip Gain: 820 feet (250 meters) Getting There: From Chilliwack, take Vedder Road south. After crossing the Chilliwack River, turn left onto Columbia Valley Highway. Follow this road 5.1 miles (8.3 km) to the parking lot on the left.

BRIDAL VEIL FALLS Length: 1.2 miles (2 km) round-trip Gain: Minimal Getting There: Going east on Highway 1, take exit 135. Do not cross over the highway. Go straight on an access road for 1 km to commercial area. Look for and follow Bridal Falls Provincial Park signage on your right.

VEDDER RIVER ROTARY TRAIL Length: 5 miles (8 km) one way Gain: None Getting There: Take Exit 119A (Sardis-Vedder) from Highway 1. Head south on Vedder Road and turn right on Keith Wilson Road. Access the trails and parking lots by turning left on either Peach, Lickman, or Sumas Prairie roads.

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Clockwise from top left: Beau Gaughran belly flops into Elfin Lakes, B.C. / Natalie Lord and Beau Gaughran photo. Adam McCoy chases the sunset near the southern end of Whatcom County / Brad Andrew photo. A full-body sunburn in process at the Mt. Baker Slush Cup / Anne Cleary photo. The late Adam Roberts drops into a North Cascades couloir / Jason Hummel photo. Laura Jackson takes a selfie with Willow at Blanchard Mountain / Anne Cleary photo.

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SPRING 2017

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GALLERY

Clockwise from top left: Koji Kuromiya-Parker drops into a line above Spada Lake with Buster on his heels / Tyler Mitchell photo. A paddler crosses Baker Lake toward Mt. Shuksan / Eric Mickelson photo.

Brothers Bennett and Mitchell Burke tubing near Maple Falls / Tyler Mitchell photo. Casey Sires slides down a waterfall deep in Olympic National Forest / Jefferson Morriss photo.

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Clockwise from top left: Jadyn Welch chases Becca Margulies down Das Auto Bahn at Galbraith Mountain / Brian Chapel photo. Soaking up the golden hour on Skyline Divide / Andy Porter photo. Matt Wainhouse takes flight toward Grandma’s step-up / Brad Andrew photo. Passing through old growth at Stimpson Family Nature Reserve / Beau Gaughran photo. James McSkimming on Heliotrope Ridge / Jason Hummel photo.

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KOMA KULSHAN CAR CAMPING Where to go and what to know to camp around Mt. Baker STORY AND PHOTOS BY PATRICK BEGGAN

F

or an easy night under the stars, it’s hard to beat car camping. Though Whatcom County doesn’t have a major mountain pass or an abundance of built-up campgrounds for RVs and high traffic, there’s plenty of quality car camping around. If

you know where to go, camping in the middle of some of the most amazing scenery in Washington can be as easy as parking your car.

Many of the best campsites are easy to get to nearly yearround and relatively close to civilization. The spots in this

guide take less than 90 minutes to get to from the Interstate 5 corridor. Though car camping is relatively easy compared to trekking into the backcountry with a backpack, you should still be aware of weather and know what amenities you’ll find at the campsite and what gear you’ll need to bring.

DOUGLAS FIR CAMPGROUND Elevation: 906 feet Amenities: Fire grills, pit toilets, well water and picnic tables.

Access: Take Highway 542 east just past Glacier, Washington. The campground is signed and on the left side of the highway at Canyon Creek Road, near milepost 35.

Other: Douglas Fir Campground is open from the end of April until October.

Just on the outskirts of Glacier, Douglas Fir Campground is a great base to explore the North Fork of the Nooksack River valley, which is packed with trailheads and outdoor opportunities. The short Horseshoe Bend Trail, a beautiful year-round hike along the banks of the Nooksack, starts at the campground. Across the highway there’s a spot for launching rafts or kayaks. Other popular trails nearby include Heliotrope Ridge and Church Mountain, along with other lesser-known trails.

This is a great late spring spot for campers chomping at the bit to get outside. It’s well-developed and close to restaurants, coffee shops and stores in Glacier, yet still near the wilderness.

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BAKER LAKE Elevation: 705 feet Amenities: Fire pits, pit toilets, water spigots, boat ramps and picnic tables Access: From I-5 and exits 230 (coming from the south) or 232 (coming from the north) head east on Highway 20. Stay on 20 as it winds through Burlington and Sedro-Woolley. In 23 miles, turn left onto Baker Lake Road, 5.5 miles east of Hamilton. There will be a small brown sign for Baker Lake just before the turnoff. Baker Lake Road is paved through the first 20 miles past several campgrounds, and then becomes a well-maintained gravel road on the way to the more remote upper campgrounds. Snow is common in the winter at Baker Lake, but it’s often possible to get here in the winter.

Other: Northwest Forest Pass is required.

Baker Lake has some of the best and easiest year-round camping near Mt. Baker. Eight developed, car-accessible U.S. Forest Service campgrounds with fire rings, tables and toilets, are scattered around the long lake. Additionally, there’s dispersed camping (with no amenities) nearby. The number of places to pitch a tent means that, aside from holiday weekends, there’s almost always room here.

The lake is great for canoeing and kayaking and several trailheads nearby on Baker Lake Road lead to fantastic North Cascades scenery. The Swift Creek Trail, which provides an alternative to the more popular route from Heather Meadows, is a highlight. The East Bank Baker Lake and the Baker River trails also start near the lake, providing options for flatter trails and good off-season hiking. Baker Lake is also a convenient basecamp for winter snowshoeing.

DEADHORSE CREEK Elevation: 1,300 feet Amenities: Pit toilet Access: From Bellingham, take Highway 542 east 34 miles to the Glacier Public Service Center. Reset your odometer, and watch carefully for the junction with Forest Road 39 (Glacier Creek Road), just 0.8 miles down the road and to the right. Immediately after turning off 542 onto Glacier Creek Road, follow the signs to the Skyline Divide Trail and turn left on Forest Road 37. Drive approximately 4.25 miles to just after the Cascade Creek crossing, but before the large wooden bridge over Deadhorse Creek. Campsites are on the left on a wide turn and easy to miss.

Other: Northwest Forest Pass required.

The camping at Deadhorse Creek, along the south bank of the Nooksack River, is a gem. It’s right on the river and all sites are within a few feet of the water. This is dispersed camping, meaning it’s outside a designated campground, and it’s hard to find if you haven’t been there with someone who knows the way. Though it’s one of the more rustic places to camp in the area, several sites have stone fire pits and there is a pit toilet.

It doesn’t have potable water though, so remember to pack it in.

There are plenty of trailheads and scenic drives nearby on Glacier Creek Road and farther up Forest Road 37. This is a great spot to explore the banks of the Nooksack around the campground and, just west of the campground, there is a large, stony open wash with amazing views of Church Mountain and the ridges bordering the Nooksack Valley.

TWIN LAKES Elevation: 5,200 feet Amenities: Pit toilets, picnic tables, fire rings Access: From Bellingham, go east on Highway 542 and 13 miles past Glacier turn left onto Forest Road 3065 (Twin Lakes Road), which is just past the Washington State Department of Transportation maintenance shed. The road is well maintained and accessible by nearly any vehicle for the first 4.5 miles to the Tomyhoi Lake/Yellow Aster Butte trailhead. Those without a high-clearance vehicle should park here and walk the remaining two miles to the campground. The last section of road has steep switchbacks and may have large potholes.

Other: Northwest Forest Pass required.

Twin Lakes is one of the most amazing car camping destinations in the North Cascades.

At 5,200 feet, this campground does not melt out completely until July in most years and is surrounded by the kind of alpine scenery that can’t typically be reached by road. Nearly every site has a metal fire pit and picnic table and there are pit toilets for the campground.

It’s scenic enough to just sit and stare, but the lakes and surrounding area also host some interesting exploring. A 2-mile trail leads to the top of Winchester Mountain, which boasts an incredible view and a retired fire lookout cabin where it is possible to camp overnight.

The space is first-come, first-served and can be competitive. The Lone Jack Mine, which operates periodically depending on the price of gold, is also accessible from here, along with other off-trail adventure options. The lakes themselves are amazing at any time of year and there’s very little other car camping at this elevation in the state.

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A climber slips into rock shoes at Smith Rock State Park in Oregon.

Mallorie Estenson photo.

T

he Cascades are a wildly diverse mountain range. We have glaciers and snowfields, we have talus and boulders, we have water ice and alpine ice, and we have steep rock that’s good and steep rock that’s bad. The only consistency between these

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mediums is that there’s no consistency, and this creates a problem when it comes to choosing footwear.

Imagine Forbidden Peak. Here’s a mountain that – depending on your climbing confidence – could be climbed in boots, approach shoes or rock shoes. And due to the small glaciers surounding the mountain, it’s likely that many people will require two types of footwear on an ascent.

An important but often underrated skill of alpinism is selecting the appropriate footwear for the job. The following is a breakdown of footwear options and their backcountry niches.

ROCK SHOES On strenuous alpine rock routes, climbers often wear comfortable “all-day” rock shoes.

In the mountains, rock shoes should be reserved for high-end pitches, as they are most effective when conditions are dry and not too cold, with little or no snow to negotiate on the route.

The sticky rubber on rock shoes does not perform well in temperatures below freezing; if you are in such temperatures, you’ll likely want more covering your foot than a rock shoe anyway. Most alpine climbers prefer to wear rock shoes on routes that are graded 5.8 or harder.

APPROACH SHOES Approach shoes are a great lightweight option for fast ascents of easy alpine terrain.

Sticky rubber approach shoes are extremely popular on alpine rock routes, especially after the snow melts and you can hike in on dry trails.

However, some climbers do strap lightweight crampons to these shoes in order to cross small glaciers or late-summer snowfields. It is not uncommon for recreational alpinists to lead up to 5.8 in them. Indeed, many are willing to lead harder routes with them and to pull on gear here and there to avoid bringing another pair of shoes.

There are, however, two disadvantages to approach shoes. One is that they don’t provide much support for hiking with a heavy backpack, and another is that they will get wet and cold if it snows. Like rock shoes, when the rubber on approach shoes gets cold, it gets slippery and hard, especially when walking on snow or ice. Climbers should be cautious when using approach shoes in these conditions.

LEATHER BOOTS Leather boots are the most common type of footwear in the alpine climber’s toolkit. Most leather boots climb both rock and ice relatively well. Some lightweight leathers are tailored more for rock climbing, whereas heavi-

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er leathers have an ice climbing focus. The primary difference between the two weights is often the amount of insulation in the boot.

Most alpinists are comfortable leading low fifth-class rock in leather boots, though it should be noted that climbers who purposefully train in them will be able to climb midto-upper fifth-class rock as well. The obvious conclusion is that leather boots provide an excellent choice for situations wherein you might encounter a combination of snow, ice, and moderate rock climbing.

There are some disadvantages to leather boots, however. First, some of the heavier leather boots are difficult to break in and can cause serious blistering in the process.

Second, many leathers have a full shank in the sole so they’re too stiff to smear well. Finally, they are difficult to dry out once they become wet.

DOUBLE BOOTS Though double boots are the least precise and the heaviest of all alpine footwear, they are the warmest and easiest to dry out in the backcountry. On Cascade volcanoes in the early spring, on the flanks of Denali, or on other cold objectives, double boots perform extremely well.

Historically, most double boots were plastic, though that’s not necessarily the case any more. The reason many people like double boots on Cascade volcanoes is because they’re easier to dry out than leathers. It’s possible to take the inner boot into your sleeping bag with you and to use body heat to dry them. This is particularly useful on spring ascents when the snow is so slushy that it’s almost as if you’re wading in kneedeep water.

Plastic boots are terrible on rock. They don’t bend or smear at all. They’re clunky and imprecise. Climbing in crampons while wearing double boots is a bit better than

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

Climbing footwear, from left: a rock shoe, low-top and hightop approach shoes, leather boot and double boot.

Jason D. Martin photo.

without crampons. But that doesn’t mean that they perform as well as leathers in a technical setting. The primary use of double boots is for cold, high mountains. If you primarily do quick trips in the Cascades during the spring and summer, it’s likely that you can deal with the dampness. But if you do long trips in the winter or spring in the Cascades, it makes sense to have a pair of double boots.

WHAT TO WEAR? In order to choose the best footwear for your climb, spend some time researching the route. What are you likely to encounter, snow, ice, difficult rock climbing or a mixture of all three? In addition to knowing

IT’SN G A OW K S

what to expect, make sure you know your limits. How hard can you climb in each type of footwear? These two factors will play the largest role in your decision. If you know you’re going somewhere cold that will also require low-end technical rock climbing, it’s a good idea to take your intended footwear to the crag or the gym and get comfortable climbing the necessary grade in them.

Choosing appropriate footwear for an alpine outing is a skill that takes as much time, experience and refinement as learning a new technique, and occasionally you’re bound to get it wrong. But that’s OK. You know what they say, “Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgment.”

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Where to ACME/VAN ZANDT ACME DINER

2045 Valley Highway (Hwy 9) 360/595-0150 acme-diner.com This ’50s-style diner’s friendly staff is ready to serve you great home-cooked food; fresh ground hamburgers, daily dinner specials, gluten free meals, pizza, espresso, homemade desserts and Acme ice cream.

BLUE MOUNTAIN GRILL

EAT

BOUNDARY BAY BREWERY & BISTRO

1107 Railroad Avenue 360/647-5593 bbaybrewery.com In business since 1995, catering to locals and out-of-towners alike. Ten house brews on tap paired with a menu of fresh Northwest locally sourced pub food. Family friendly establishment with daily live entertainment.

KEENAN’S AT THE PIER INSIDE THE CHRYSALIS INN & SPA

974 Valley Highway (Hwy 9) 360/595-2200 bluemountaingrill.com Fresh, homemade fare, including baked bread and desserts made daily, steaks and burgers. Open for lunch and dinner every day, and breakfast on weekends. Enjoy a beautiful view of the Twin Sisters.

804 10th Street 360/392-5510 thechrysalisinn.com Featuring a seasonal menu, full bar and terrace bar open for happy hour every day, 3–6 p.m. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner daily with a view of Bellingham Bay and the San Juan Islands from every table.

EVERYBODY’S STORE

KULSHAN BREWING CO.

5465 Potter Road, off Highway 9 360/592-2297 everybodys.com This delightful and eclectic store features a wide array of gourmet meats, specialty cheeses and fine wines, many of which are made locally. Also check out their great selection of clothing, books and artwork.

2238 James Street 360/389-5348 kulshanbrewing.com Enjoy great beer in a comfortable taproom with a view of the brewery.

Bring your own food or order from onsite food trucks at this neighborhood gem.

BELLINGHAM

1538 Kentucky Street 360/389-5348 kulshanbrewing.com Enjoy great beer in a comfortable taproom with a view of the brewery.

Bring your own food or order from onsite food trucks at this neighborhood gem.

BELLEWOOD ACRES

6140 Guide Meridian, Lynden 360/318-7720 bellewoodfarms.com Visit the distillery, farm, country store and bistro for artisan food products and Northwest gifts. Visit the website for a full list of entertainment and family activities.

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7260 Cordata Parkway, Suite 107 360/756-5055 Pizza made with only the best ingredients available, and dough made fresh every day. The perfect place to stop after a long, hungry day of adventuring.

Where to

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THE CHRYSALIS INN & SPA

804 10th Street 360/756-1005 thechrysalisinn.com Each guest room overlooks a spectacular Northwest seascape.

Spacious rooms feature fireplace, down comforters, luxury amenities and a two-person bath elegantly set in natural slate. Three distinctive room types offer increasing levels of luxury.

34

SKAGIT’S OWN FISH MARKET

18042 Hwy 20 360/707-2722 skagitfish.com Offering the highest quality in local seafood. Daily lunch specials freshly prepared. Local jams, jellies, salsas, honey and sauces. Visit them on Facebook.

CONCRETE 5B’S BAKERY

45597 Main Street 360/853-8700 5bsbakery.com Skagit County’s premier bakeshop serving home-style breads as well as a full array of fresh baked goods and classic American desserts. Dedicated gluten free. Great food for everyone.

Open 7 a.m.–5 p.m. Closed Tuesdays.

ANNIE’S PIZZA STATION

44568 State Route 20 360/853-7227 anniespizzastation.com Family-owned pizza restaurant focusing on fresh, homemade quality Italian fare. Friendly service, helpful information and great food combine for an unforgettable experience.

DEMING RIFUGIO’S COUNTRY ITALIAN CUISINE

5415 Mt. Baker Highway 360/592-2888 ilcafferifugio.com Gourmet full-service menu, serving wine, beer and espresso at reasonable prices. 8 a.m.–8 p.m., Thursday– Sunday for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

15 minutes from Bellingham. Drive-up window. Live music and events.

THE NORTH FORK BREWERY AND BEER SHRINE

6186 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2337 northforkbrewery.com Looking for marriage or a pint of fresh ale and hand-tossed pizza? This pizzeria, brewery, wedding chapel and beer museum is your place! Open to all. Monday–Friday: dinner; Saturday– Sunday: lunch and dinner.

WELCOME GROCERY

5565 Mount Baker Highway 360/922-7294 Eat in or take out. Fresh-made, homestyle breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Pastries, deli sandwiches, rotisserie chicken and more. Largest bottle shop in region.

EVERSON HERB NIEMANN’S STEAK HOUSE RESTAURANT

203 W. Main Street 360/966-2855 eversonsteakhouse.com Nestled in the middle of Everson, serving a mouth-watering array of steaks, Bavarian specialties, seafood and desserts to customers since 1993.

Offers atmospheres for adults and families alike, including parties up to 50.

GLACIER CHAIR 9 WOODSTONE PIZZA AND BAR

10459 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2511 chair9.com The perfect place to enjoy a great family meal or a brew after a day on the mountain. Bands play weekends.

Try the “Canuck’s Deluxe” pizza, a staff favorite. Open for lunch and dinner.

Dine in or take out. Check music events on Facebook.

GRAHAM’S RESTAURANT

9989 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-9883 Grab a stool at the legendary bar and enjoy rotating selections of fine craft beers, ciders and wine. New menu specials – appetizers, sandwiches and dinner. Breakfast weekends.

MILANO’S RESTAURANT

9990 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2863 For 25 years, Milano’s has been a landmark of the Mt Baker foothills.

Traditional Italian recipes plus daily specials make meals that you will long remember.

WAKE ‘N BAKERY

6903 Bourne Street 360/599-9378 getsconed.com Open daily 7:30 a.m. to 5ish p.m.

Serving breakfast burritos, quiche, soup, lunch wraps and freshly baked goods. Savory and sweet gluten-free options. Organic espresso and coffee.

Indoor and outdoor seating. Dine in or take out.

MOUNT VERNON THIRD STREET CAFE

309 South Third Street 360/542-5022 thirdstreetcafe.coop Located in historic downtown Mount Vernon, the Third Street Cafe is a project of the Skagit Valley Food Coop. Utilizing the bounty of local and seasonal products, we provide fresh perspectives on Northwest flavor.

FARMSTRONG BREWING CO.

110 Stewart Road 360/873-8852 farmstrongbrewing.com Pure Skagit Valley on tap! AB’s Hillbilly Gyros food truck. Trivia Wednesdays, 7 p.m. Family and pet friendly. Open Tuesday–Sunday at noon. Closed Mondays. Farmstrong Brewing Co. Grow something.

STAY

BELLINGHAM 4040 Northwest Avenue 360/714-9600 springhillbellingham.com Discover a hotel infused with smart and stylish design, offering a seamless blend of comfort and functionality.

Enjoy spaces to work, relax and connect and be completely in sync with the hotel experience.

BURLINGTON

45501 Main Street 360/927-3671 airbnb.com Cozy and quiet short-term rental just one block from 5b’s Bakery. Near the Baker and Skagit rivers, Baker Lake and North Cascades National Park, it’s a perfect base for rest, recreation or business.

GLACIER BLUE T LODGE

10459 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-9944 bluetlodge.com Conveniently located behind Chair 9 Woodstone Pizza and Bar, this six-room inn is ideal for families or groups. Clean rooms have queen-sized beds, a full bathroom and private small patios as well as access to a meeting space.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SPRING 2017

LUXURY GETAWAYS

9989 Mt. Baker Highway 360/398-9590 or 877/90-BAKER stayatmtbaker.com From mountain chalets to waterfront lodges, Luxury Getaways offers overnight accommodations in newly built vacation homes located in the heart of the Mt. Baker Recreational Area. Perfect for hitting the slopes and relaxing.

SNOWATER RESORT AND CONDOMINIUMS

10500 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2724 snowater.org One and two-bedroom rentals available. Recreation centers with indoor pools and sauna. Indoor/ outdoor racquetball courts.

THE FIRS MT. BAKER CHALET

Mile marker 54 Mt. Baker Highway 800/765-3477 firschalet.org A lofty summit setting for juniors

through adults, just 54 miles east of Bellingham, State Route 542. It is only 3/10 of a mile from the Mt. Baker Ski Area, and Mt. Shuksan sits at the back door.

HOPE, B.C. MANNING PARK RESORT

7500 Hwy 3 800/330-3321 manningpark.com Only 1.5 hours from the Sumas border crossing. Manning Park Resort offers lodging with all the comforts of home. The resort provides accommodation for 450-plus with a variety of rooming and budget options.

MAPLE FALLS BAKER ACCOMMODATIONS

7425 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2999 or 888/695-7533 bakeraccommodations.com Baker Accommodations offers cabins and condos in the resort developments of Snowater, Snowline and Mt. Baker Rim.

MT. BAKER LODGING

7463 Mt. Baker Highway 360/599-2453 or 800/709-7669 mtbakerlodging.com Mt. Baker Lodging offers cabins, condos, chalets and executive rental home accommodations. A number of selected units are pet friendly. Walkin reservations and one-night stays available.

WINTHROP CHEWUCH INN

223 White Avenue 800/747-3107 chewuchinn.com Guest rooms for romantic getaways, seasonal travelers and outdoor enthusiasts. The relaxed atmosphere of a B&B with the privacy of a hotel.

Centrally located for an abundance of outdoor adventures in the surrounding wilderness areas.

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

GETTING STARTED WITH

SPRING FORAGING Connect with the Earth

A

BY AMY GIBSON

s winter winds down, green life emerges in the forest once again. You may notice foragers off-trail, filling baskets with robust leaves, bright flowers and small berries. Perhaps you’ve caught a bit of their fever and are curious about the plants surrounding us in this bountiful part of the world.

To harvest plants for food or medicine, you must be willing to learn and look closely. It is important to have a guide at hand, either a person or a book, to aid in identification. Proper plant ID is imperative and the results of incorrect identification can be irritating or devastating.

This abundant corner we live in is not immune to human meddling. Though overharvesting contributes to imbalances in a habitat, we can also give thanks and life by harvesting sparingly, replanting and spreading seeds. Through attentiveness, we forge a seasonal relationship of health and connection to the Earth.

When seeking plants, aim for places away from toxic runoff, high traffic and chemical sprays. Do not harvest all of a stand of plants. Clean up after yourself, and be gentle to the ground around where you are gathering.

WHERE TO START: These plants are easy to ID, extremely prolific and have wide-ranging uses.

STINGING NETTLE (Urtica dioica) Nettles, the herald of spring! They grow everywhere, tending toward moist earth and open but slightly shaded areas. In the right spot they grow up to 4 feet tall. Nettles have square stems (an indicator of the mint family) and leaves that grow opposite each other in pairs.

The leaves are dark green with serrated edges and a sharp tip at the end of the leaf. With respect to its name, the stems and leaves are covered in tiny stingers.

Why harvest this plant? It is full of nutrients. The leaves contain chlorophyll, iron and protein. They also contain huge amounts of calcium, and have anti-inflammatory, diuretic and blood-building properties. If you tend toward adrenal fatigue, do not make a habit of this plant.

Don’t harvest nettles after the plant flowers – past this point, nettles contain compounds that irritate the liver and kidneys.

To harvest nettles, you’ll want thick gloves and kitchen scissors. Harvest the top leaves and stem, shake off any spiders, bag and take home to process.

To render the stingers harmless, blanch nettles in boiling water for a minute or so. Then either eat them (many people serve nettles with salt and butter, blend them into a soup or make nettle pesto) or shock them in cold water and use them later. Nettles frozen after this preparation can be added to soups and stews like blanched spinach.

Another method is to dry fresh nettles, bundling their stems and hanging them in a dry, dark place. Once they are dry, store them in an airtight container and use them for tea all year long.

LANCELEAF OR BROADLEAF PLANTAIN (Plantago lanceolata & Plantago major) Growing everywhere from front lawns to alpine meadows, plantains have nutritional and medicinal benefits. They are most often used to take the ouch out of bug bites, bee stings, nettle pokes and any other pain you might find out in nature. The best way to do this is to make a compress or a poultice – or even just chew it until it’s juicy – then put it on the irritated spot.

One of the main identifyiers of all plantain varieties is that they have obvious vertical leaf veins, which run from leaf base to leaf tip. They grow in rosettes and have seed heads that shoot straight up from the center in the fall. Many people harvest the leaves and juice them, freezing the juice in ice cube trays for use on stings, cuts, and rashes throughout the year.

LEARNING AND PLANT IDENTIFICATION RESOURCES Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast

by Jim Pojar and Andy MacKinnon This is the bestselling plant guidebook for our area. It has identification characteristics as well as photographs and drawings for almost 800 different species of plants.

Medicinal Plants of the Pacific West

by Michael Moore and Mimi Kamp Michael Moore was a giant of the herbalist world, and his legacy lives on in multiple forms. This book is a great directive and introduction to herbal ID and the components of making herbal medicine.

Living Earth Herbs: 1530 Cornwall Avenue, Bellingham. livingearthherbs.com This shop inside the Bellingham Public Market has the books listed above, along with a cultivated selection of literature on herbal medicine, herbal gardening and area herbal knowledge. They stock dried plants, medicinal herbs, oils, salves and tincture for all sorts of uses.

Wildroot Botanicals: Bellingham. wildrootbotanicals.com This school is a wonderful resource. Leslie Lekos is a careful teacher who respects the habitat she lives in, works with and eats from. She also has a wide network of respected herbalists who continually

visit to teach courses. Wildroot Botanicals sells products as well, which makes them experts in teaching production of consistent herbal medicine. Their apprenticeship course covers a huge number of the plants in our area and their nutritive and medicinal values.

Cedar Mountain Herb School: Bothell cedarmountainherbs.com This is the school’s first year in Bothell.

Up until this winter, Suzanne Tabert was teaching in the Skagit Valley. She is a lifelong learner with a mimd for the science and accurate ID of plants. Her classes are well worth the drive, and she offers apprenticeships as well as workshops. Expect to see apprentice-taught workshops in Whatcom County soon.

Harmonic Arts Botanical Dispensary: Courtenay, B.C. harmonicarts.ca The work of Yarrow Willard and his team aims to bring herbal balance and knowledge to everyone. They regularly teach workshops on mushrooms, mushroom ID and medicinal and edible plants around the greater Vancouver area. The business also has an expansive and eponymous YouTube channel that is informative, exciting and just the right amount of cheesy.

x

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EVENTS

FEBRUARY

- find more events and submit your own at mountbakerexperience.com

MARCH THE OUTDOOR ADVENTURE AND TRAVEL SHOW March 4-5, Vancouver

Convention Center. Get amazing preseason deals on the best outdoor gear and travel experiences at this exciting two-day event featuring hundreds of exhibitors.

Discover hiking, running/triathlons, camping, kayaking, canoeing, and adventure travel, plus be inspired with seminars from seasoned travelers and experts. For more info: outdooradventureshow.ca

RECREATION NORTHWEST SUMMIT & EXPO February 24-25, Bellingham Cruise Terminal. Recreation Northwest’s annual summit is back with a whole weekend of fun and education featuring industry speakers, professionals, networking and an expo and art show open to the public. More info: recreationnorthwest.org

SEATTLE BIKE SHOW March 4-5, Century Link Field Event Center. Check out the biggest bike expo in the Pacific Northwest at Century Link Field Event Center, featuring all things cycling, big prizes and events throughout the weekend. More info: seattlebikeshow.com MUSSELS IN THE KETTLES March 4-5, Coupeville. Early season mountain bike ride on Whidbey Island, followed by a free beverage at the World Famous Penn Cove Mussel Festival in Coupeville.

Three course are set up in Fort Ebey State Park and the Kettles trail system, with Green/easy, Blue/moderate, and Black/ expert course ranging from 8 to 13+ miles. More info: musselsinthekettles.net

UEST ADVENTURE RACES

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HOT CHOCOLATE 15K/5K March 5,

Seattle Center. Join the movement that’s taken over the racing world. Hot Chocolate 15k/5k is headed to Seattle. For more info: hotchocolate15K.com

RUNNIN’ O’ THE GREEN March 11, Bellingham. Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day Bellingham style. Join this 5K walk/run or 8K run that starts and finishes from everybody’s favorite celebratory location the, Boundary Bay Bistro. Stick around afterwards for music by Maggie’s Fury and the Bellingham St. Patrick’s Day Parade.

BEAR TRAP TELEMARK FESTIVAL March 11, Manning Park, B.C. Celebrate freeheeling at Manning Park Resort with fun races, skills sessions, an obstacle course and more. More info: manningpark.com

CHUCKANUT 50K March 18,

UEST 36

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Bellingham. Celebrating its 25th year, the Chuckanut 50K has become a nationally-known classic. It’s a lollipop course with the first and last 10k on the smooth interurban trail. The middle 30k is what this race is known for as you get to climb (5000 feet), traverse and descend the beautiful Chuckanut Mountain ridge. For more info: Chuckanut50Krace.com

Experience Coupeville on Whidbey Island!

SWIMRUN

April 1, Port Angeles. 12K and half marathon trail run in beautiful Port Angeles, followed by a bbq and beer at Harbinger Winery. More info: oatrun.org

March 11, Mt. Baker Ski Area. The best junior free skiers show their skills on Mt. Baker’s legendary terrain. More info: mtbaker.us.

Big Climb at Seattle’s Columbia Center is the Leukemia and Lymphoma Center’s biggest annual fundraiser. Climb the stairs of the second-tallest building west of the Mississippi and take in the views, all while raising money for blood cancer research and patient support services.

Last year’s event raised $2.9 million.

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Bellingham MAY 13 & 14

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April 21-29, Bellingham. Salute the many great breweries, beer bars and beer stores that serve the Bellingham area at the sixth annual Bellingham beer week. The event lasts nine days and includes events all over town.

More info: bellinghambeerweek.com

EVERETT HALF MARATHON AND 10K April 9, Everett. The Everett Half,

formerly known as the Heroes Half, is now owned by the Snohomish Running Company. The event date, courses, venue, and charity partner will all remain the same. Active duty military and veterans will still be able to register at a discounted rate for the half marathon or 10k. The courses are absolutely beautiful and run along much of the Everett waterfront.

More info: everetthalf.com

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MT. BAKER GOLDEN EGG HUNT April 15, 2017, Mt. Baker Ski Area. Hunt for eggs on the slopes and find the golden egg to win a season’s pass to Mt. Baker next winter. More info: mtbaker.us DECEPTION PASS MARATHON April 15, Deception Pass. Marathon, half marathon and kids race on trails through beautiful Deception Pass. More info: bellinghamtrail.com SKAGIT VALLEY TULIP PEDAL April 15, La Conner. The 36th annual Tulip Pedal is sure to be, like the 35 that came before it, a surreal ride through the tulip fields of the Skagit Valley. The Tulip Pedal offers three rides – a 20-mile course around the tulip fields between Mount Vernon and La Conner, and 40-mile and 60-mile courses that begin and end at La Conner Elementary School.

BELLINGHAM SWIMRUN May 14, Bell-

ingham. Bellingham Swimrun, at Lake Padden, will be the first Swimrun event held in Washington state. Since its inception, the sport has grown rapidly and now has a world series with the World Championships held every September in Sweden. Bellingham swimrunners will travel 15 kilometers in seven running legs and six swimming legs. More info: recreationnorthwest.org

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RHODY RUN May 21, Port Townsend.

The Jefferson Healthcare Rhody Run will be celebrating its 39th year in 2017 and is one of the Northwest’s best-loved races.

Run the 12K or 6K. More info:rhodyrun. com

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Whidbey Island March 4 – 5, 2017 Coupeville, WA

WHIDBEY ISLAND MARATHON April 23, Whidbey Island. Run a full marathon or one of a variety of shorter distances on scenic courses on Whidbey Island. One course highlight? The famed Deception Pass Bridge. The Whidbey Island Marathon is a Boston Marathon qualifier event. Learn more at runwhidbey.com

musselsinthekettles.net

HAVE A HEART RUN April 29, Burling-

ton. The 8th annual Have a Heart Run is a benefit run for Community Action of Skagit County. This family-friendly event is open to runners & walkers of all skills. There is a 5K Run with a chipped timing option, a 2.5K walk, and a kid’s run.

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MAY KULSHAN QUEST ADVENTURE RACE May 13, San Juan Island. At Kulshan Quest Adventure Race you get a map with checkpoints identified 30 minutes before the start. It’s up to you and your team to decide the routes you take. New to the scene? Try the 3-hour course that includes mountain biking and trekking.

Seasoned or adventurous thrill-seekers, try the 12-hour course for kayaking in addition to mountain biking and trekking. More info: recreationnorthwest.org

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SKI TO SEA

20, 40 and 60 - mile routes in the beautiful Skagit Valley during our annual world-famous Tulip Festival.

May 28, Bellingham. The iconic multi-sport race of the northwest.

Ski, run, bike and paddle from Mt. Baker to Bellingham Bay. Put together a team and register, or join the festivities in Bellingham and Fairhaven.

More info: skitosea.com

Proceeds benefit Safe Kids Northwest, a coalition of Safe Kids USA, focusing on prevention of injuries in children 19 and under.

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THERE AND BACK AGAIN

6 a.m., November 18 South Kaibab Trailhead, 7,260 feet From the dark, a frigid wind clawed at my legs, my spandex leggings seemingly disintegrated, and I am totally exposed on the edge of a vast unknown. I wandered close to a corral where some large, furry creatures moved about. A Grand Canyon pack mule sauntered over, its eyes glistening in the light of my headlamp. The wind whistled through the pines around us and the mule blew puffs of warm breath against my face. This sturdy creature knows the trail in and out of the canyon as well as the whiskers on its nose.

Mules have been delivering people, gear, mail and various supplies in the Grand Canyon since the 1920s. I think to myself, I will channel the trail sense and sure-footedness of the mule.

We are engulfed by darkness as we descend. Cold wind rips up from the labyrinth of rock that winds some 5,000 vertical feet down to the Colorado River. The journey ahead is intimidating: over 45 miles on foot, and more than 10,000 feet of elevation gained and lost over the course of the day.

The goal is to make it across the Grand Canyon and back, a monumental undertaking for us.

All three of us were rookies to the distance we were about to undertake, and our nervous uncertainty hung in the air. This was my first visit to the canyon, and my first attempt to run over

A runner’s tale of crossing the Grand Canyon twice in a day STORY AND PHOTOS BY AMELIA BETHKE

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25 miles. People perish in the canyon every season for various reasons – heat exhaustion, hypothermia, falling and other causes stemming from a failure to respect the hazards of traveling through an unpredictable and extreme landscape.

We are just three gals who love to run. Lauren and I grew up together in the Northwest. We share a deep love and devotion to the outdoors that continues to bring us together even though she moved away years ago. Lauren was living and working in Jackson, Wyoming up until two days prior to our adventure. Having just finished her seasonal job, she packed up her life and drove to the Las Vegas airport, picking Simone and me up on the morning of November 17.

Lauren and Simone met on a rafting trip through the Grand Canyon a couple of years ago. They did an 18mile out-and-back run of the Bright Angel Trail together, starting and finishing at the canyon floor where their rafts were beached on a sand bar of the Colorado River.

The Bright Angel Trail is one of two popular southern routes out of the canyon. That run sparked the idea of running the entire width of the Grand Canyon and back in a day. Park regulations prevent organized races through the canyon but people have been completing the “rim-to-rim-to-rim” (R2R2R) challenge as an unofficial, bucket-list ultra run for years. Google it.

After hearing about their scheme I weaseled in, and benefited from their careful planning and preparation. Like any good student, I did my homework before the run. This entailed many miles of preparation in the Chuckanuts. In fact, all of my training took place in the uniquely accessible and extensive trail systems in and around Bellingham.

I biked to trailheads or ran right from home. If you live in Bellingham, chances are you have passed me riding my bike en route to, or on, a trail somewhere.

Bellingham is one of those exceptional places where you

can train for a run like the R2R2R without ever getting in your car to drive to a trailhead. Hidden beneath the layers of fog, rain, and dripping cedar boughs are endless opportunities for exploration. Though the landscape of the Pacific Northwest is entirely different from the Grand Canyon, there is a quiet beauty amongst the moss and ferns, and a ruggedness to the coastal foothills that endow those who scale them with the strength to tackle serious feats of endurance.

The maze materialized ahead of us as dawn crept over the edge of the canyon. The colors of the rock were gently illuminated; deep reds and oranges, purples and greens. We paused frequently to gaze at the scene emerging with the rising sun.

Time in the Grand Canyon seemed to take on a different pace. Whether it was due to the fact that we were in perpetual motion or it was a dynamic of the place, hours passed imperceptibly. We travelled not only over land but also through an immense span of geologic time, traversing in

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one day the layers of a landscape that had formed over the course of six million years and exposed some of the deepest, oldest structures of the North American continent.

9 a.m., Phantom Ranch, 2,480 feet Phantom Ranch, an oasis of green on the canyon floor, was our first real break complete with water, bathrooms, snacks and electrolyte consumption. The lush green of Phantom Ranch provided sharp contrast to the beautiful but barren landscape through which we had descended from the South Rim, almost 5,000 feet above.

The time between water filling stations was all movement, soaking up as much beauty as we could at our slow but constant saunter. We absorbed and were continually awed by the varied personas of the canyon.

Each bend in the trail offered a new twist to the story that spread before us. Just when the landscape seemed to be approaching a state of continuity, a transition would reawaken our wonder, as narrow canyon walls opened abruptly into a wide desert scape of red sandy rock and spiny, contorted vegetation beneath a crystalline blue sky. The canyon is a natural master of illusion and surprise, holding endless secrets within its branching and twisting folds.

From Phantom Ranch, we had to go up. As the trail ascends the North Rim, the canyon walls stretch skyward. We wound along ledges with thousands of feet of near-vertical drop above and below, moving through the rocky alcoves of an earthly cathedral. As someone who has devoted numerous summer seasons to trail work, I can empathize with the hardworking souls who forged a moderate grade through such treacherous terrain. Built by the National Park Service in the 1920s, the North Kaibab Trail required dynamite, drills and jackhammers, all packed in by mules.

As we neared the top of the North Rim, the canyon walls began to slope outward and tall, fragrant Ponderosa pines

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down the South Kaibab trail at the beginning of the day. The Bright Angel trail is slightly longer, but less steep. I hugged Simone and Lauren and we agreed that we were all in a good state mentally and physically and fully capable of covering these last miles up and out of the canyon.

I took off alone, munching chocolate covered dried banana. I had about 4-anda-half miles to go when the last bit of sunlight receded behind the walls of rock.

Darkness fell, and the switch-backing trail was lit only by tiny, flickering headlamps as the last trail users made their way out of the canyon. I began to feel the effects of the miles on my legs and as the trail steepened, my stride became a jolting alternation between hobbling and hiking. Cramps seized my muscles when I tried to launch into a full jog, but stopping wasn’t an option either as my legs seemed to transform into concrete stumps upon cessation of movement.

The darkness took on a surreal nature, my perception limited to the tunnel of light from my headlamp. Glimmering eyes stared at me from the side of the trail and I started, only to realize that a fox was crossing in front of me, following the hillside up across the switch-backing trail. I watched it as far as my headlamp’s beam would reach. The fox moved effortlessly through this terrain, at home amongst the spiny underbrush and steep, loose rock.

Though the mule had been my steadfast, dependable trail spirit through the day, it was time to emulate a creature that navi-

gated the canyon by night. “I will channel the grace of the fox in darkness,” I thought to myself as I summoned my body into a slow, deliberate jog for the last of the incline through the night.

6:30 p.m., Bright Angel Trailhead, 6,860 feet Emerging at the top of the Bright Angel Trail, after 12-and-a-half hours in the canyon, was anticlimactic. I hobbled around in the cold night, past cars and the bright lights of cabins and park facilities. I was profoundly moved by the insignificance of my journey, my moment of triumph, through a landscape whose geological scope went so far beyond the scale of humanity and the human-centered victory of running the Grand Canyon in a day. After a little bewildered wandering I found my way to the Bright Angel Lodge where I waited for Lauren and Simone. I was unable to sit for some time but gradually my muscles relaxed and I melted into a heap of warmth next to the massive fireplace.

Lauren and Simone emerged from the darkness not long after, marking the end of an incredible adventure. Our time on the trail was more than six hours behind the men’s FKT (fastest known time) set just a month before by Jim Walmsley, and over four hours behind Bethany Lewis’ 8-hour, 15-minute women’s FKT in 2011. What we lacked in speed, we gained in the overall experience of being in the Grand Canyon for a full day – observing nuances of the region that would have undoubtedly been overlooked at a record-setting pace.

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12:30 p.m., North Rim, 8,241 feet Our persistent pace paid off and we arrived at the North Rim within minutes of one another. The same bone-chilling cold that we had felt six hours ago and 21 miles away on the South Rim was there to greet us.

We savored our halfway victory until the cold began seeping through our layers, and then started back into the canyon after no more than 20 minutes, with fingers and toes feeling slightly numb. Descending the North Rim, miles ticked by in a blur of constant conversation, snacking, electrolyte guzzling and the sheer joy of being alive. At one point we realized we had run more than 30 miles and we were astonished at how good we felt.

I think ibuprofen, caffeine and endorphins may have played a role in our enthusiastic conviction of near invincibility.

We spread out and ran in silence through the bottom of the canyon. Here I began to feel my own deep rhythm. I feel intrinsically connected to the landscape when I am running, letting everything soak in as I move through space with no disturbance other

40

than the sound of my feet hitting the trail.

Breath flows in and out of my lungs, and I feel my muscles firing powerfully in perfect balance. I floated along through what is referred to as “The Box,” where steep, narrow rock walls line the trail along Bright Angel Creek. There is a deep purple hue to the rock here, and it’s smooth to the touch.

The rock in the lower reaches of the Grand Canyon is some of the continent’s deepest foundational structure. Geologists have dated rocks in this so-called “basement” region of the canyon to more than 1.8 billion years old, well before the formation of life on Earth. Running through this segment and experiencing a cross-sectional view into the Earth’s earliest geologic history was humbling and provocative. Our day in the canyon, like our whole lives and all of human history, was nothing more than a flash, far less than a nano-fraction of a tick in the time clock of the Earth.

4 p.m., Phantom Ranch, 2,480 feet We returned to Phantom Ranch for a final gathering, nearly 8 hours after our first stop.

With 9 miles left, I was beginning to feel the urge to push. We took the Bright Angel Trail out of the canyon, whereas we had come

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SKI to SEA with the WETBOYZ

Without cars, the famous race is a weekend of fun STORY BY OLIVER LAZENBY, PHOTOS BY STEVEN GADINGAN MONDAY, MAY 23, 2016 It’s 50 minutes into a planning meeting for car-free Ski to Sea and team Wetboyz of Aslan Brew have tie-dyed a bunch of uniforms, but haven’t done any actual planning. There’s a lot to work out – the Wetboyz have to get equipment and racers in place for all seven legs of the famous relay between the Mt. Baker Ski Area and Bellingham using only bicycles and brains. It’s my first time doing Ski to Sea, but the Wetboyz have done it car-free before and no one seems concerned.

Finally, someone starts a planning conversation; “How am I going to carry a snowboard on a tandem?” Travis asks. After some half-hearted suggestions about straps and panniers

the discussion is cut short by a game of Ratball, the Wetboyz’ signature drinking game in which the winner gets to drink.

The Wetboyz aren’t just a Ski to Sea team. If you’ve ever been in the wrong place in Bellingham on a Monday night (Wetboyz night), you may have seen a dozen or so of the boyz, mostly on old mountain bikes, crossing a street from one section of urban trail to the next in a flurry of dinging bells and skids. Those are the Wetboyz and Ski to Sea weekend is one of their holidays.

FRIDAY, MAY 27 Four days later, I pedaled east on the Mt. Baker Highway with Drew and Cale, the Wetboyz’ late crew. Five other rac-

ers and a support crew – for carrying the extra beer – had left earlier in the day and were somewhere on the highway ahead of us.

The Ski to Sea website suggests that competitors in my leg, the mountain bike leg, leave Bellingham at 9:45 a.m. on Sunday to make it to the start line in Ferndale in time. So why did we leave at 5 p.m. on Friday afternoon?

While most teams try to complete Ski to Sea quickly (it is a race, after all), car-free teams developed a tradition of taking time and turning the event into a three-day party that starts as early as Friday morning.

“It started because people down at sea level would feel left out of the party and want to go hangout,” said Kyle Morris, an architect of the first ever car-free team. “So we just added a day to it so that all those folks could go up to the mountain and we could all hang out together, because that’s the most important part.”

We were heading for the Silver Fir Campground, a perfect staging area because it’s close to the mountain legs and right by the road bike starting line.

We didn’t make it until well after midnight. We rolled to the far side of the Sno-Park and found the rest of the Wetboyz. Half of them were asleep in their tents and the rest huddled under a leaking tarp.

The next morning, we said goodbye to the cross-country skier, snowboarder, runner and road biker and prepared to ride down the highway to Everson. A lot of people recommend starting cold for outdoor sports. That way you won’t get too sweaty when you inevitably warm up. Bike touring in hilly terrain is especially hard to dress for, so I listened to the more experienced Wetboyz, who recommended starting wet. It would only get wetter.

GOING CAR FREE Ski to Sea added a car-free division in 2013, but people have been completing the race without cars for longer.

Morris, who founded the Hub Community Bike Shop in Bellingham, had done the race a few times before his first sans-car excursion. He often did his segment car-free, or close to it.

“I think there’s a pretty healthy handful of people who’ve always done the mountain bike leg car-free, because it’s 10 miles to Hovander,” he said. “If you can’t ride your bike 10 miles on the road… I mean, the race course is longer than the commute.”

In 2009, Morris tried to convince his friend Dominic Battistella to do Ski to Sea for his first time. Battistella replied if cars weren’t involved, he’d consider it. Morris told him cars were just part of the deal – a drawback, but a necessary one.

“And then I thought, wait, it doesn’t have to be part of the deal. What if we did it without cars? Both of us just agreed on the spot to try to figure it out,” he said.

Morris built a trailer in his weld shop out of bits and pieces of old bikes, rounded up a team and went for it.

The biggest obstacles were getting the runner to the top of the course – a problem solved with a tandem – and figuring out how to get the canoers’ bikes from the beginning of their leg in Everson to the end in Ferndale.

“I finished the bike trailer contraption two days before the race and I had a parking-lot-test’s worth of time to try it,” Morris said. “When we got to the canoe leg, I put the bikes on and just started riding it around that parking lot, which

SPRING 2017 | MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE

41

is full of potholes. By the time I got to the end of the lot I was like, I can’t do this. Who am I kidding? I’m going to die doing this.

“But then I thought, well, I can’t not do it either.

I’m committed. So it worked and I figured out a bunch of things to do differently.”

That year, the first-known car-free team, the Star Speckled Banana Slugs, came in 232 out of 323 teams. Morris and company kept at it car free for a couple of years because it was just more fun than racing with cars.

“You don’t get that same sense of camaraderie when you do it with cars. You’re much more dependent on each other when you don’t have a crutch like that,” he said.

By 2010, the slugs had procreated, forming two car-free teams, and two others joined them.

BECOMING OFFICIAL Simon Graves rode with the Car Free Kiss Army in 2011 and though his canoe loaded with bikes got stuck under a logjam in the Nooksack, he was hooked. He held planning meetings at his house the

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MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SPRING 2017

next year to organize teams and get people together, and helped push the informal division into an official one.

“A lot of people wanted it to happen and I could just tell that it wouldn’t take much effort,” Graves said. “I just started an email campaign and emailed everyone persistently.”

The number of car-free teams grew nearly exponentially until 2013, when Ski to Sea’s organizers made it an official division. Eleven teams signed up that year and some nearly cracked the top 50 finishers. Car-free participation peaked in 2014 with 14 teams, and 2016 saw the most competitive carfree team yet, when Seize the Body-Float the Day crossed the line in Fairhaven 29th overall.

The division appealed to people like Graves, who were not competitive and had never done the race with a car.

“I’ve never been interested in races, but this just seemed so fun,” he said. “The actual race itself has always been something I enjoy while I’m doing it, but it’s kind of a hassle. It’s just a good excuse to do

MOUNTBAKEREXPERIENCE.COM

these other things and have a beginning-of-summer party.”

At first, Graves knew most of the teams who signed up.

Eventually others signed up after seeing the division on the Ski to Sea website.

“One of our main goals in getting the division legitimized was to encourage more people to do it and realize it’s a possibility,” he said. “So it was really exciting when team’s started to appear that we didn’t know.”

Going car free requires a separate skillset from the rest of the race. There are many ways to handle the logistics, and some people enjoy that part more than the actual race. The Wetboyz’ ringleader and canoe hauler, Dennis Stickler, has supported the team more often than he’s raced.

On the logistics front, there’s still room for innovation, Morris said. He and Battistella once parked their canoe at

the starting line in Everson, rode bikes back to Ferndale, and then ran 17.5 miles back to Everson for the start of the race.

Maybe next they’ll try it on rollerblades instead of running, he said.

Graves wonders what would happen if the division became extremely competitive.“It would be interesting to see what all the winning teams would do,” Graves said. “I imagine the elite athletes being towed in trailers and not doing any of the work while being supported by a group of volunteers.”

SUNDAY MORNING The day of the race, the Wetboyz came to life and crawled out of tents in a patch of woods outside Everson. I unzipped mine and found an inch of water in a shoe that I didn’t pull quite far enough under the rain fly. Once again, we started wet.

An hour later, the crew was on the road and splitting apart.

The support team and canoers went north toward the start of the river leg, while Wetboyz kayaker Dylan Drenched and I rode west toward Ferndale before splitting up to head toward the start of our separate legs.

As I rode past lines of cars trying to get to Hovander Park, I thought about all that took place in the last 100 miles: finding chalk messages pointing toward hidden party treats along the highway, rolling into camp after midnight, bombing down powerhouse hill in the pouring rain, pizza and pitchers of beer at Chair 9 in Glacier, two nights of campfires and wet camping with the car-free family.

I got to Hovander Park in Ferndale in time to let my socks dry out. There was just one detail left to take care of – my leg of the race.

x

HOT ROCK CHICKEN Two different camping styles converge at Silver Fir Campground on Ski to Sea Weekend. At one cluster of campsites, a group of campers who have been going out to Silver Fir every Memorial Day for years congregate with their RVs, coolers, canopy tents, half-gallon bottles of condiments, kilometers of aluminum foil and electricity.

They’re prepared. Car-free Ski to Sea teams camp nearby, with wet socks, zero extra underwear and nothing that didn’t travel 46 miles up the highway on a bicycle.

A few years ago, some of the RVers noticed the bicyclists looked cold and hungry, and offered them some leftovers. The cyclists accepted, and the RVers invited them over the next day to experience something called hot rock chicken.

“We watched them do this process of shoving hot rocks up the chickens’ heinies and underneath their wings,” said Gretchen Leggitt, one of the hungry cyclists. Next they slathered the birds in barbecue sauce and wrapped them up in aluminum foil. The recipe yielded an annual tradition.

“We were strangers from different walks of life without much in common,” Leggitt said. “It’s the one weekend we hang out, and we love each other dearly. I think they’re stoked to be involved with some of the racers, rather than just watching the race from out there, so it’s a symbiotic relationship.”

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ODE TO RANDY HOOK Remembering the Mt. Baker legend

BY MAYA HUNGER

A DIFFERENT KIND OF HARDCORE The quest to ride every day of the season is alive at Mt. Baker

Randy Hook, right, at the Mt. Baker Ski Area last spring. Photo courtesy of Angela Griffin.

O

n January 1, the Mt. Baker Ski Area quietly greeted the new year. It was a calm and clear morning and the sun had just reached Mt. Shuksan’s hanging glacier as the news spread across the mountain: Randy Hook, Mt Baker’s legendary Hawaiian-shirt-wearing, mustache-toting, pro-patroller-turned-grandfather figure, had passed away at work while snowmobiling around the ski area.

I caught the fourth chair on chair 5 that morning and as we reached the top, a large bald eagle came into view, its wings hardly beating as it rode the updrafts amid the golden morning light. The eagle circled the entire ski area from the top of Chair 8 to the patrol shack near Chair 1 – we watched, captivated. Behind us the helicopter came and landed in the back of the parking lot.

At White Salmon Lodge, hundreds of hugs were exchanged and dozens of shoulders were cried upon. Even in our divided time his loss was felt by a unified community that, in many respects, acted as Randy’s family. As the sun set that evening many employees gathered to watch the film “Hook” in his honor, and at his memorial a few days later, Chair 9 was so full there wasn’t a spare parking space within a mile.

“No one could say exactly what Randy did on the mountain because he did so much he made himself indispensable,” said Anthony Brown, a friend of Randy’s and former ski area employee. “I think he’d returned for so many seasons that it was understood that he would probably work for the mountain until he couldn’t anymore.”

Randy’s impact on the Mt. Baker and Glacier communities is difficult to quantify. In many ways Randy was just as much a part of the mountain as its raven logo, Avenue Bread chowder bowls and heavy Pacific Northwest snowpack. He was 19 when he started working at the ski area and continued off and on until he passed away at 67. Unquestionably irreplaceable as a member of the Baker staff, Randy touched the lives of most employees and many guests in a profound way.

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“Randy taught me a lot. I think his influence changed my life,” said former pro patroller Zack Barrett. “He had a positive attitude every day no matter what happened around him. He would do anything for anyone at any time. You can be stoked or bummed out in your life; Randy was stoked. He taught me that that was a personal decision, not that you were predestined for one or the other.”

While Randy’s overall stoke and positive demeanor prevailed throughout his career at Baker, he also seemed to have a rare ability to sense danger and respond quickly and effectively.

Chad Kaaland, a former employee lodge cook, recalled the time that a co-worker had a seizure in the kitchen during the breakfast rush. Not wanting to scare the entire crowd of people, Chad walked calmly into the dining hall and requested ski patrol assistance.

“Maybe I asked for assistance too calmly, but no one seemed to notice much except Randy. It was like he saw in my eyes how badly I needed help; he was in the kitchen within seconds,” Kaaland said.

During his prime ski days, Randy’s instincts distinguished him as a stellar ski patroller as well. His 1997 heroic rescue of a lost teenager made headlines and was recounted in a four-page spread in Reader’s Digest. The kid got lost just outside the ski area boundary, fell down a frozen waterfall and became buried out of sight at the waterfall’s base. As the article says, Randy located the teenager on his own and led a four-hour rescue mission that involved 27 people (mostly food service employees) and moving nearly 10 tons of snow.

Over the course of the last couple of weeks I have had the pleasure of talking with many people about Randy and they’ve shared one common sentiment: he died doing what he loved, in the place he loved, with the people he loved, on one of the most beautiful days of the year – if only we could all be so lucky.

And so goes the hope that even in the wake of his passing, we may all learn from Randy and continue his legacy: drink cold beer, ski with good friends, look out for one another and stay positive even when things are tough.

MOUNT BAKER EXPERIENCE | SPRING 2017

BY OLIVER LAZENBY

O

ne day in 2013, a soaking wet Albert Arth stood on the shoulder of Highway 542 with his thumb out for three hours before finally catching a ride to the Mt. Baker Ski Area. He missed the migration of employees headed to work, which usually passes by his home in Snowater between 7 and 7:30 a.m. And since it was also raining at the top of Pan Dome, 4,000 feet above, no one was going skiing.

Maybe Arth wouldn’t have been going skiing either. Except, after seven years of snowboarding 100 days a season, he’d set a more ambitious goal: to ride every single day of the season.

Arth isn’t the only one to attempt or even complete that goal. A few others have taken up the challenge as a way to prove to themselves their love and dedication to snowboarding.

But Arth has probably been the most successful. He had so much fun the first winter that he tried it again in ’14-’15 with the following set of goals: ride every day of the ski season, hitchhike each way every day, complete 100 backcountry runs and not spend money all season long.

He pared back his life, which was already arranged around snowboarding, even further. He paid his mortgage in advance at the beginning of the season, stocked his house with food and beer, and caught rides with a

friend once a week to the Bellingham Food Bank, where he volunteered and got food.

He worked two days a week as security at the ski area.

Not spending money allowed him to simplify his life, but he also wanted to prove that money isn’t a requirement for living your dreams.

That year, it hardly snowed and many gave up on skiing and snowboarding early in the year. Arth found ways to make it fun. A believer in the power of crystals, he put a giant amethyst crystal his friend found in the lodge in a strategic location to make it snow. He repelled a 50-foot cliff with ski patrol to ski a line on the arm.

“You had to find a way to make it fun,” said Arth, who’s now 35.

Arth made all his goals. Even for folks who have arranged their whole lives around being able to ski or snowboard whenever they want to, skiing everyday seems extreme.

“I work there and I ski fairly often, but even I take breaks,” said Mt. Baker pro patroller Andy Sahlfeld. “So to go every single day is really an immense amount of dedication. It’s like a different kind of hard core.”

Aside from dedication and preparation, it took serious luck, Arth said. He had to dodge the perils of foot pain, injuries, hangovers and the appeal of taking a day off to do laundry, buy groceries or take care of other life necessities. The quest even ended Arth’s

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Photos from left: Albert Arth bootpacking during the second season he rode every day. For Arth, riding every day during a historic low snow year meant making his own fun. That included body sliding down the hill in a one-piece waterproof suit in the rain and harnessing the power of crystals to make it snow. Alex Hartley almost never wears gloves and that doesn’t stop him from trying to ride 150 days. Or dragging his hand. Photos courtesy of Albert Arth.

relationship with a girlfriend who didn’t quite understand it.

Arth’s friend Alex Hartley, a furry, gloveless snowboarder who drives the Baker Bus and is known to some as “everyday Alex” and others as “soul surfer,” is on his third season of attempting to ride every day the lifts run and at least 150 days total.

Hartley, who’s 10 years younger than Arth, nearly made it the last two seasons. The first year he went until March 8 and miscalculated the time he’d need to make it to the mountain before rafting (Arth and Hartley both work summers at Wild and Scenic River Tours in Glacier).

The next year, his perfect record ended on March 2 after he broke some ribs and hurt his shoulder falling off a cliff. If he makes it this year, it won’t radically change the number of days he snowboards, but it would still be nice to finally make it, he said.

“If I finally get it, then maybe next year I could be more chill. Maybe I’ll just try to ride 120 days instead of every single day,” Hartley said. “I’ve even had the nightmare where I wake up and I’m going through my day and at 3 p.m. I’m like, ‘Oh, no, I didn’t get up to the mountain today!’”

Hartley is going for it partly to avoid the feeling of having missed out, or staying home and second-guessing the decision.

“By the time you get up there you’re always stoked to be up there. You get to the switchbacks and you’re like a puppy about to be let loose,” he said. “I’ve never regretted going up.”

Obviously, Hartley and Arth have an unusual amount of dedication to their craft. Arth moved to Glacier from Indiana and has applied his Midwest work ethic – handed down from his parents – to his ski bum lifestyle.

“One of the things I’m good at is determination,” he said.

“It’s easy to sleep in with your pretty girlfriend and miss the powder. But for me, I hate myself if I do that. If I miss one day of snow I’m like, ‘What’s going on? What, do you just not even care anymore?’ You should see me if I don’t get first chair. If I’m, say, 20th chair, I’m anxiety-riddled and hating myself that there are 80 people in front of me.”

The goal added direction to his ski bum lifestyle. It’s a reminder that there’s something he’s supposed to be doing, a passion he’s already made the center of his life, so he’d better go do it.

“When I think about lifetime accomplishments – I don’t have a 401K, I have 11 years of snowboarding 100 days,” Arth said. “I don’t go home and look at my investments, I look at 11 years of season passes.”

Read more about Albert Arth’s 2014-2015 season in his personal blog: threeeyedraven.blogspot.com

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