BARKS from the Guild Winter 2013

Barks From The Guild (An environmentally force-free online magazine)

The Pet Professional Guild

Vol. 2, No. 1 Winter 2013

No Pain, Lots To Gain.

Relationship Relationship--Building Between Pets and People.

In this issue: An owner’s first aid and quick action saves her dog’s life Bunny Care 101 Working Through Puppy Problems Does Your Business Marketing Equation Add Up? Preparing to Sell Your Facility My Dog Jumps!

International News Member profile, product reviews, and more!

Don’t Miss Out! There are member deals on insurance, products and training programs inside!

Message from the Founder Well, 2013 is firmly established and we have rip-roared through January already.

We had originally scheduled for Barks from The Guild to be published in mid January but unforeseen circumstances held back the publication by two weeks.

This delay has given us the opportunity to use this edition to communicate to you regarding our 2013 PPG Strategic plan.

Our strategic plan is more than 20 pages long and therefore it’s not feasible to share its entire contents with you Guild Company History so I am hoping the information I provide here will Organizational Culture prove to be the most useful to you. We also believe we The Key Charter have some really exciting products and services to Guiding Principles roll out and will maintain a “cloak-and-dagger” apMembership Statistics proach with these so not to expose them to others.

Key Industry Associations However, the key content Pet Ownership Statistics information menu is shown at right so you understand PESTEL Analysis the depth and breath of the information included in its SWOT Analysis entirety.

To ensure we continue moving forward carrying out our vision we have created goals within four key objectives. Each of our goals will be coordinated through a committee of volunteers. At this point several of our goals will also be assigned a feasibility task force since much more work is required to determine if, how and when resources should be allocated. If you volunteered for one of our committees, then thank you. We will be contacting you soon so we can begin to meet and get started. There are some really exciting projects planned and I am looking forward to working with you to make these projects a reality.

Have a sneak peak at some of our goals:    

A Pet Professional Guild Licensed Dog Training product, to support you with the implementation of private dog training sessions; A force-free criterion, with training support for pet grooming, dog walking & pet service providers; A series of force-free promotional videos to help promote not only PPG as an organization but you as a valued member.

A PPG Provisional Member “Mentoring Program;”

IN THIS ISSUE… Columns Founder’s Message—N. Tudge Medical Perspective—D. O’Moore Bunny Care 101—B. Jordan Upcoming PPG Seminars FAQs on PPG Business Insurance—D. Pearsall Does Your Business Marketing Equation Add Up? - N. Tudge Preparing to Sell Your Facility — T. Heikkila Ask Leah—L. Roberts Working Through Puppy Problems—E. Brad International News—contributed Member Profile—contributed Product Review—L. Clifton Product Review—A. Steinker

The Guild Steering Committee Niki Tudge Catherine Zehner Diane Garrod Angelica Steinker Leonard Cecil Anne Springer

Contact The PPG Member Communication Admin@PetProfessionalGuild.com Publication Information Catherine@PetProfessionalGuild.com Advertisements Admin@PetProfessionalGuild.com International Communication Leonard@PetProfessionalGuild.com Mailing Address 1778 Linda Lane Bonifay, FL 32425 Telephone 41 Dog-Train www.PetProfessionalGuild.com Newsletter Editor—C. Zehner

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Our key business purpose is to initiate a serious effort for the education of pet care providers and the public coupled with an emphasis on building collaboration among force-free pet trainers and professional pet-care providers. We aim to publicize “our voice for the profession” that advocates for mutually-agreed guiding principles for the pet care industry.

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From a Medical Perspective … First Aid PPG-style!

By Denise O’Moore Editor’s Note: When PPG Member Denise O’Moore attended PPG’s online First Aid Webinar in August, she had no idea her knowledge and skills would be put to the test in a matter of months. Here is her account of what might have been a fatal injury to her Shepherd, Feebie, had she not known what to look for, what to do, and how to act quickly.

treats — they all followed me. Feebie’s leg was pumping out bright red blood — obviously arterial and not something I could stop on my own. I took a towel from my bag and wrapped the leg keeping pressure on it as best I could while I got my phone out.

November 26, 2012 (of course it had to be a Monday…)

1:20 p.m.

I took the three dogs down to the river for a run with the intention of meeting Mike, my partner, and Ann, a close friend back at the other end of the trail at the second car park at Castletown House, a large stately house surrounded by acres of woodland and rivers in Celbridge, County Kildare, in Ireland. It’s a wonderland for dogs to play in. The house itself is a tourist attraction and provides guided tours during the summer. It (the house) has a car park on either end of a driveway stretching about a mile or so in opposite directions. We were at one end and Ann was at the other.

1:45 p.m.

I called Ann to find out how close her vet was and could they meet me nearby, between both car parks. I mentioned Feebie had cut her paw and needed a vet. The towel was soaked in seconds and there was no-one around, I couldn’t give a location over the phone as it was a woodland at the back of a large state home and I had no idea where in relation to the main house I was. I knew the trail to bring me to the car park but it normally takes about an hour or more to walk it. And Feebie didn’t have an hour.

I was in the middle of nowhere with three large dogs — although Feebie is only 27 weeks old Normally we all meet up with our she weighs almost 30 kg (66 lbs) — and Edgar dogs: Feebie, Edgar (our other dog weighs in at 42 kg (92 llbs) and Elkie at 38 kg(83 who is staying with Ann) and Elkie lbs). I didn’t have a hope of carrying any of them. who is Ann’s son’s mobility dog. Elkie is I thought of zipping Feebie into my jacket and pulling her along but I didn’t know what had almost 10 and due to retire in January Feebie cut her or if there was any more around, so so Edgar will be stepping in to take over the role of mobility and tasks for Ann’s 10-year-old son. chose not to risk it (we found out later it was a broken beer But when we met up, Ann had just gotten a phone call from bottle.) I could have made a tourniquet easily out of some the school asking her to come quickly as one of her boys was sticks and a leash but wouldn’t risk the dangers of that either. unwell — when the school calls you go immediately! Our car I’m not sure if every decision I made was the right one but my priorities were: was closer so Ann and Mike went off and I took the dogs.  Get all dogs from immediate danger / area  Assess the injury and apply pressure 1:40 p.m.  Phone for help Feebie had been chasing  Get moving!

Edgar and the two of them jumped over Elkie who was So I packed as much mud and dry grass around the towel and rolling in the wet grass, that wrapped some poop bags over the whole area and secured it was the moment Feebie with a hair band. This wasn’t holding to well because of the yelped and everything went amount of blood, but I did see the house in the distance — red. My initial reaction was about a mile away as the crow flies — so that’s the route we to move all three dogs from took. I needed to keep as much pressure on the wound as the immediate area as I had possible so attached both ends of one of the leads to the other no idea what had cut her but two dogs and got them to help me up the incline with Feebie. didn’t want to risk any more injuries, I ran parallel to The incline is not very steep but it was impossible to get up in them and took out a bag of this situation. I let the lead off of the other two and all three dogs followed me. Then I saw a ditch but no way around it. It was about four-foot-wide, quite deep, and filled with water and The Three Amigos mud. I jumped in first to check it was safe enough for the Mike with Edgar (standing), dogs, Elkie and Edgar got up and out first while I lifted Feebie Feebie (sitting) and Elkie in, through and up the other side. But as I climbed out I got (laying down).

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(Feebie, continued from page 3)

stuck in the mud. I lassoed Edgar and got him to help pull me out. Meanwhile, Feebie was also stuck, but the pressure from the mud was holding the leg. This gave me an idea: I got a pile of wet mud, filled a poo bag with it and the moment I got her out of the mud, I shoved her leg into the bag of mud and secured it with another hair band.

Thankfully I could see the other two arriving at the front of the house, and since Ann has a disabled parking permit for her boys they were able to come right down to the house!

They spotted me and came over, Ann wrangled Edgar and Elkie who at this time were covered in blood and Mike helped me with Feebie. The mud wrap had slid off so Mike compressed the wound with a wad of tissue from his bag.

We still had a short distance to go to get to the car and Feebie was starting to look a little weak. I made the decision to hold the leg and run, I knew the running would make the blood pump out faster but I also knew we were so close and she needed to stay awake. We made it to the car and got her into the front, while Ann rang the vet so they would be ready on our arrival. Feebie went into shock in the car on the way to there — her gums were as white as her teeth, her pulse was weak and her eyes were rolling back. I kept poking her ear because she hates it, just to keep her with me and awake. Her blood loss was substantial and I know making her move was not the brightest idea but I didn’t see it as an option I saw it as a necessity.

2:30 p.m.

We arrived at the veterinarian’s office and thankfully, they were prepped and ready to take Feebie into surgery. Speaking to the vet the next day, he mentioned it was one of the most life-threatening paw injuries he had seen. He had no idea how many stitches he put in but figured six or seven, as

she was critical and he worked as fast as he could because she could go at any moment.

Editor’s note: Feebie is fully recovered and Denise O’Moore scored a 93 percentile on her PPG First Aid Certification. To learn more about O’Moore, Denise O'Moore ADip CBM, MIACE, check out this issue’s member profile on page 24.

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The piece of glass that Feebie cut herself on and, inset, the way O’Moore found it in the grass.

As seen by the veterinary report, Feebie sustained an arterial bleed and was in full shock from blood loss when she arrived at the clinic. Her owner knew the signs of shock and that she was out to beat the clock. Her quick thinking and action saved Feebie’s life.

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Every Bunny is Somebunny … Bunny Care 101

By Niki Tudge

The DogSmith “Beth’s Bunny Salad” Bethany Jordan advises mixing these so the rabbit does not get too much of any one ingredient:

When you think of PPG members you think of dogs and cats, right? Well PPG members also offer a variety of pet care services that include canines, felines, equines and a variety of smaller pets.

Many pet owners consider rabbits as family members. I often read on Facebook of pet rabbit antics and am always entertained by some of the pet rabbit videos that float around. We have a pet rabbit called Jack as a regular at our Oxford (Mississippi) Pet Resort & Spa guest and his family adore and cherish him. What a character! So I asked Bethany Jordan, a Certified Vet Technician and PPG member, who also provides a home on her farm to a multitude of species, to give us some advice on how to care for these amusing pets.

Rabbits are a popular choice of pet for children. They are small, can be hand-tame if socialized well, come in a variety of breeds and live for up to 17 years. As with any animal member of our family, caring properly for a pet rabbit is very important. If you have a rabbit or are thinking of bringing a rabbit into your home (as many families do around Easter), then plan accordingly so you can care for your pet rabbit correctly.

Rabbits need safe housing. They need to be in a secure and well-ventilated cage. If kept indoors, you must provide for outside play in a good enclosure. Rabbits living outside are very vulnerable to predators such as raccoons, coyotes and other animals. Outdoor hutches must take into consideration the weather in your location. The flooring should be made of a material that a rabbit cannot dig through, as an adventurous rabbit will soon escape and be hopping around your neighborhood. Your rabbit will also need a litter box.

When handling your rabbit be very careful — rabbits are more fragile than they look. Dropping them can break their bones. To lift a rabbit correctly you must support its body.

Most rabbits will struggle when their feet leave the ground, so use your hand under the rabbit’s chest while supporting its back end with your other hand. Hold the rabbit against your body so there is no danger of dropping it.

A rabbit can become conditioned to enjoy being picked up and stroked if you approach this in the right way.

Rabbits need a

Jack the Rabbit

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Fresh organic greens Radishes Carrots Fruit ( apples, pears, or strawberries) Sweet potato Random leftover veggies

special diet. Each day you must provide grass for them. Veterinarians recommend either Timothy or Bermuda grass.

Other grass options can be detrimental to their health. Rabbits also need a daily ration of greens. Bethany Jordan recommends a “Bunny Salad” (recipe below). Don’t feed your rabbit any sugar or too much fruit as sugar can affect their gut flora. Rabbits also need half a cup of Timothy pellets each day and a bowl of fresh clean water to drink. Water must be available to your rabbit at all times.

We asked Bethany for her advice on the most important things to remember when caring for a rabbit. Here is what she said:  Rabbits have the same gastro-intestinal processes as horses, so any change in diet should be gradual; 

Rabbits need hard objects to chew as they have to file their teeth and wood is a good option;

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Rabbits are very sensitive to heat stroke so their accommodations should be made to keep them cool during hot summer months;

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Never house your rabbit with guinea pigs as they can pass infectious diseases;

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Rabbits are prone to bladder stones so they should not eat alfalfa or greens that contain a lot of calcium;

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Greens that contain a high moisture content such as lettuce and cucumber should be given in moderation as may cause diarrhea;

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Rabbits are very active animals and are much happier with a life full of enrichment so give them toys, boxes to climb on or in and if you are committed you can train them to do fun things;

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A rabbit’s teeth and nails require trimming as they are continually growing;

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If you have a male and a female rabbit then spay or neuter your pets to prevent unwanted bunnies.

So if you are a pet rabbit owner then hop on over to the PPG website and locate your force-free pet care provider.

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Bethany Jordan, CVT, CPDT-KA and owner of The DogSmith of Florida’s Panhandle and Alabama contributed to this article.

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Member News! FAQs on PPGs Business Insurance Editor’s Note: Recently there have been several inquiries about PPG’s business insurance policy, so we asked David Pearsall, Vice President of Business Insurers of the Carolinas, to put together a list of FAQs (FrequentlyAsked Questions) for Barks from the Guild.

Q: What does it cost to add additional contractors?

A: Under the PPG Association policy there is a charge of $25 to add an independent contractor as an additional insured under your policy . But adding an independent contractor can be tricky. For example, the insurance agent that has the PPG policy works with many insurance companies including CNA and The Hartford. These companies do not charge to add an additional insured, but if the independent contractor is a volunteer there would be coverage, but if they are an independent contractor with whom you have a written contract, certain exclusions could apply depending on what is in the contract. Most people don’t realize this until they need to file a claim — then it is too late. Any contracts you have with independent contractors should be submitted to the insurance agency for review. That way if they tell you it is covered, you have recourse against the agent.

Q: Why are policies cheaper with your competitor?

A: Typically our association policy is the most competitive policy when you consider coverage. However we also work with other major companies such as CNA and Hartford (companies that competitor agencies typically use) and can give you quotes for all three companies and place you with the carrier of your choice. We have found that CNA and The Hartford can be less expensive if you have higher receipts and wish to sacrifice coverage for price. They can also cover property and offer higher limits and umbrellas. So depending on individual and special needs, we also write policies with these insurance carriers and can offer their quotes to all members upon request.

Members in the Spotlight!

To help connect our force-free professional members with discerning pet owners in search of these special skills knowledge and talent, we have launched our Trainer of The Week Spotlight. The PPG will spotlight a member a week who, when selected, will have his/her business, information, web address featured on PPGs Facebook Page, Twitter account and included in the “Member News” section of the quarterly Barks from the Guild for 12 months. If interested, visit the PPG web page to apply!

In Memoriam…

It is with sadness that we must report the passing of PPG member Mary Denise Lukacs, 60, on Dec. 13, 2012. Ms. Lukacs, the owner of The Pet Teacher in Detroit, Michigan, took more than 25 years of know-how in the corporate communications and training industry and applied it to working with our dog companions. Denise was an awardwinning producer of TV spots, documentaries and corporate training programs with expertise in leading global teams in traditional live and video communications, mobile, and guerilla marketing. She then became an on-camera host, training facilitator and writer for Fortune 500 companies for their customer and employee learning projects.

“She was a wonderful, loving friend and advocate for our dogs, and other animals as well,” says fellow PPG member Bonnie Hess.

Ms. Lukacs passed is survived by her two sisters, Joan (Hugh) Hoyt and Judy (Jerome) Churchvara, and by numerous nieces, nephews, and their children.

But, if you compare liability coverage against the association policy we offer, you will find that the association policy is much broader and claims settlements/flexibility is much more accommodating (things you don’t see until a claim occurs). Examples of broader coverage include veterinary medical expenses (non-negligence claims to dogs in your care or in your training class) up to your care, custody and control limit. Imagine if you are training a dog and it tears its ACL while running. You are not negligent, but you feel that, since the dog was in your care, the injury should be paid for under your insurance coverage. CNA and Hartford will pay very little to nothing for this type of claim while the association policy pays up to the care, custody and control limit you choose ($10,000 minimum). Another example is your personal demonstration dog. Association policy coverage includes veterinary medical. CNA and Hartford do not. The Association policy offers true professional liability coverage as an option. For instance, if you were training a dog to be less aggressive and, after you returned the dog to the owner, the dog bites someone and the owner sues you, the trainer. CNA and Hartford both have a professional liability form, but if you read their form this is absolutely excluded and they are not really offering professional liability at all. There are many other examples of exclusions that only become apparent when the details of the policy are studied and understood. It is important to clearly understand how the policies read before you have a claim.

Q: What is the “athletics exclusion” under the liability policy and how does this apply?

A: We have received a number of inquiries lately on this exclusion. Please note, a general liability policy form has several parts to it. Section A is for Bodily Injury and Property Damage, Section B is for Personal and Advertising Injury, and Section C is for Medical Payments. Sections A&B are the primary liability coverage to cover you against suits for negligence on your behalf and apply to the $1,000,000 limit on the policy. Section C (Medical Payments) is really a goodwill type of coverage that pays for medical accidents (to humans), regardless of fault, to assist in avoiding lawsuits and applies to the $5,000 limit (or $10,000 limit depending on the insurance company) listed on the declarations page or certificate of your policy. The reason insurance com(Continued on page 10)

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Member Educational Programs Just because you missed one of PPG’s educational seminars doesn’t mean you missed out! Now PPG members can watch them any time! Log in to your PPG account to take advantage of this amazing member benefit!

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YouTube Review . . . Clicker-training fish?!

The "Barks Monthly" newsletter recently solicited members to send video or personal accounts of clicker-training small animals. Well, Emily Cassell of Phins with Fur Animal Training sent in, by far, the most unusual clicker-trained pet.

She has trained Russell, her blood parrot cichlid, to do the limbo, run through an aquatic agility course, and then bend it like Beckham to score a soccer (football to those across the pond) goal.

Ms. Cassell, a PPG full member and member of the International Marine Animal Trainers’ Association, is the owner of Phins with Fur Animal Training in Gainesville, Florida.

She is pretty impressed with Russell, the cichlid. “I actually am pretty convinced that the fish is by far the smartest animal I've worked with,” she says. “Trumps the Labrador Retriever every time!”

Kona the guinea pig learning to hop up on the scale.

She also trains guinea pigs, mice, birds, bunnies, and pretty much anything with ears. Her YouTube channel, PhinswithFur, is a must see and an inspiration to all force-free aficionados. All sort of small furry creatures perform interesting tasks through clicker-training, targeting and luring.

To watch Russell the blood parrot cichlid, click here.

To watch Kona the guinea pig weigh herself (and all she got as a reward was LETTUCE), click here.

Keep up the great work, Ms. Cassell!

— Ed.

Russell, the blood parrot cichlid, zips through an aquatic agility tunnel.

*Available in U.S. only

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Working through puppy problems. time with so it only makes sense that they look to us to see what worth being upset over and what isn’t. First reactions are not necessarily the best. Think the situation through. Calm Puppies are explorers. They like to test things out for them- reassurance and guidance goes a long way. selves. Adolescent puppies like to test EVERY thing! And suddenly things you have spent months training and getting great Do your best to keep things on an even keel as your puppy results with suddenly stop working. Well-known and practiced grows. Gently interrupt unwanted behavior and don't take it behaviors start failing and even a “sit” request is met with a personally. Getting angry and demanding what we expect will likely only produce blank stare. What's gounintended behaving on here? Why ioral fallout. Just do would your dog need to your best to manage test you? What possible your pup and ride reason could they have out the little misfor not doing what we takes to make him a have trained them to confident and happy do, especially if we’ve adult. rewarded them for it in the past? Well, this is where our own “human ness” can get us into trouble. It’s not necessarily about us.

Eric Brad has been training and living There’s a lot going on with dogs for over for an adolescent dog.

20 years. In 2002, Developing hormones Eric made a bold are part of it. The world change in his trainbecomes a much biging philosophy by ger place for a young turning away from dog approaching adultTraditional, punishhood. Their senses ment-based trainhave fully developed to ing techniques to take in the world and focus on modern their training has given animal training them confidence to try methods based on things out. All of this behavioral science can be very distracting and reward-based to a dog and it may training. The reseem that they preocsults have been cupied with things you nothing short of exhilarating for Eric and his dogs. can’t understand. They probably are.

By Eric Brad

The important thing to keep in mind is that it’s not personal. It can seem sometimes like our dog is just trying to make you mad. It can be very tempting to ascribe human emotions like stubbornness or sulking to dogs, but that can be a trap that leads to no good end. Instead, take the advice of Karen Pryor who said, “It’s not personal, it’s just behavior.”

Navigating through a developing dog's adolescence is a lot like flying an airplane. You will have to stay vigilant, watch what’s going on, and most importantly, don’t make any big sudden moves. While your pup may seem to inexplicably stare off into the distance when you ask him to sit, try to resist the temptation to repeat the request. If you do, you may run the risk of letting him know that he only has to sit after the fourth time you say it!

He currently shares his life with his wife Petra (also a dog trainer) and his Belgian Shepherds, Tiramisu and Rizzo.

Eric dedicates his writing for Life As A Human to his recently deceased Belgian Shepherds Vince, who taught him so much, and Mario who left us far too soon.

Now living in Victoria, British Columbia Canada, Eric continues his work with dogs and their owners providing group and private instruction in positive dog training methods and dog agility. He and his dog, Tiramisu, are active competitors in Dog Agility and his ScallyWaggs group hosts a number of agility trials and activities each year.

More than we like to admit, our dogs take many of their emotional cues from us. We are the ones they spend most of their 9

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A Professional Level member designation that will require a minimum standard of academic knowledge and mechanical skills; An annual industry survey to support you as business owners.

Our “gem” service rollouts we are keeping hush on for now! We hope you enjoy Barks from The Guild—Winter Edition. Be part of our publication and submit your articles, product reviews and more. Publication guidelines can be found here.

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Niki Tudge is the founder of the PPG and The DogSmith, a national dog training and pet-care franchise. Her professional credentials include; CPDT-KA, NADOI – Certified, AABP- Professional Dog Trainer, AABP- Professional Dog Behavior Consultant, Diploma Animal Behavior Technology, and Diploma Canine Behavior Science & Technology. Niki has also published many articles on dog training and dog behavior and her pet dog training businesses have been featured in many publications including The New York Times.

Key Objective Statements Key Objective 1 Products and Services Key Objective 2 Education and Business Development Key Objective 3 Community Outreach, Advocacy and Communication Key Objective 4 Marketing and Public Relations The Company Structure

(Business Insurance, continued from page 6)

panies do not wish to cover athletic claims is that when you do, you essentially are giving an open checkbook to cover any medical injury that occurs, regardless of fault. Just because someone turns an ankle while they are running with their dog, does not make you liable (negligent) for their injuries. The general liability policy is meant to cover you for negligence or claims that are the insured’s fault. Therefore these carriers will pay these claims, however, there would have to be a lawsuit and the dog trainer would have to be found negligent in some way (for example if there were holes on the field and trainer knew they existed, yet held a class and someone tripped over the hole). All insurance companies would defend you and cover the claim if you are found to be negligent.

However, the general liability coverage was never intended to exclude injuries to dog trainers holding agility, fly ball or dog sports related classes. We have never denied one of these claims under the association policy, but it appears both CNA and The Hartford have and will continue to do so. We will be endorsing the Association policy as soon as the new form is approved, and in the meantime, if anyone has a claim like this, it will be covered as they have in the past.

If you have additional questions or concerns, please let me know. If another agency is offering better pricing and coverage I certainly want to be made aware of it, as we pride the association policy on the fact that it is the broadest in the industry and minimum premiums starting at $290 is by far the lowest premium available as well.

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David Pearsall, Vice President, Business Insurers of the Carolinas. (919) 537-7214 10

Does Your Pet Business Marketing Equation Add Up?

By Niki Tudge, Copyright 2013 Many small business owners tend to over-think and underimplement their marketing plans. Their thinking is too often influenced by what they see Coca Cola and Toyota doing while forgetting that what is more effective for small businesses is consistent, day to day direct marketing to their customers. As Jay Conrad Levinson, the father of guerrilla marketing likes to say, "Mediocre marketing with commitment works better than brilliant marketing without commitment."

When marketing a small business it is essential that you make every marketing dollar invested earn the highest possible return. The higher the return on your marketing investment the more profitable your small business will be. To do this it is critical that you consistently execute a handful of effective marketing tactics. In general, you will be far better off with an “okay,” sustainable marketing plan that you can consistently execute, every day, week, month and year than you will be with a few sensational and costly “Super Bowl” style strategies, that can’t be sustained or consistently implemented.

To be as successful as possible in your small business you should be thinking and doing marketing every day. To keep the essential marketing components in mind it may help you

to think of your marketing as a simple mathematical formula.

That way you can easily maintain a balance in your approach to the various components of your marketing effort which will help minimize the possibility of overlooking critical aspects.

The small business marketing equation we like to use is comprised of four fundamental components. Your total sales are the end result of the services you offer multiplied by the effectiveness of your sales message multiplied by the quality of your prospective customer multiplied by the effectiveness of your marketing/advertising vehicle; or simply: Sales = Services x Message x Prospect x Advertising Vehicle.

So you can see from this simple relationship that all factors need to be present in order to enjoy healthy sales. Basic math tells us that if any of these factors is overlooked (equating to zero – and you know from grade school math that anything multiplied by zero is zero) then your marketing dollars will be wasted. You can offer the best services in the world but if any of the other factors are ignored, neglected or not executed then your sales will suffer. It should also be obvious that to optimize your total sales you need to strive for a balance in your marketing approach. From this equation it is clear that the best services marketed effectively to the wrong prospects (for example someone who doesn’t have pets) is a waste of your marketing dollars. Likewise, with everything else optimized, if you use the wrong advertising vehicle (for example an ad in a car magazine) your sales will surely suffer. Your marketing equation also shows you that it is better for your overall sales to ensure that each of the components are present at a moderate level rather than excelling in one area while neglecting the others: 10 x 1 x 2 x 1 = 20 BUT 4 x 4 x 4 x 4 = 256 This is not to say that you should strive for mediocrity in your marketing but rather you should not perfect one component of your marketing equation at the expense of the others.

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(EQUATION, continued from page 11)

Using Your Marketing Equation Effectively If your sales are suffering, or if you are looking to grow your business to the next level, start by taking a look at your current marketing plan and, using the marketing equation, weight the various components (using a scale of zero to 10, with zero being ignored/neglected and 10 being superior results/effort) based on your results, your honest assessment of your efforts, the opinions of colleagues and comparison to your competition.

Assign a weighting to your services, your marketing message, the quality/suitability of the prospects you are advertising to and the advertising vehicle. It should be clear that if your services are superior but you are marketing to the wrong demographic then identifying and reaching an appropriate demographic should be where your efforts should go to get the prospect component of your marketing equation up to the level of the other components.

How Can You Tell Which Components are Suffering?

Determining which component may be your marketing weak link will take some thought but if you review your entire process the neglected area can be readily spotted. For example if your phone is ringing off the hook then clearly your advertising vehicle is working (how else would the prospects know how to reach you?) but if you aren’t converting those prospects to customers then either the message you are communicating to them is wrong or your advertising is pulling in the wrong type of customer (maybe your message is ‘total pet care’ but you don’t offer baths but most of the calls ask about baths). You should also discuss your marketing plan with professional colleagues to see what is working for other businesses in your service industry. But by far the most effective way to identify any weak components in your marketing plan is to TALK TO YOUR CUSTOMERS and prospects. Ask your current and former customers where they get their information, what they are looking for from your services and what appealed to them about your advertising. Engage people on social media sites to determine what they read, the activities they participate in, what are their problems and concerns and what you can help them solve. This information will be invaluable to you in designing and offering services that will be in demand, developing an effective marketing message that accurately reflects the benefits of your services, identifying the prospects that will most benefit from your services and engaging the most efficient vehicle to communicate your message to those prospects. Always remember the best services in the world will not succeed if they are poorly-marketed to the wrong person.

Once you’ve adjusted your marketing equation and you are confident you have it in balance, it is time to persistently and consistently execute your plan. There is a direct correlation be-

tween the effort you make marketing your business and the results you will achieve, even if you can’t always identify the direct cause and effect relationship between sales and marketing. It is often tempting to try to use every marketing tool available but try to stick to a manageable number with an emphasis on those methods that are most suitable to your personality. Focusing on marketing tools and methods that you enjoy will increase the likelihood that you will consistently implement them and make you a more credible marketer. As you begin to enjoy increased business growth resulting from applying your marketing equation, fight the urge to change your marketing strategy. It is normal human nature to want to change your plan because it becomes ‘old-hat’ to you but remember you will tire of your marketing and advertising long before your prospective customers will. Only consider changing your marketing plan when a review of your marketing equation and testing proves it is no longer effective.

 Niki Tudge is the founder of the PPG and The DogSmith, a national dog training and petcare franchise. Her professional credentials include; CPDT-KA, NADOI – Certified, AABP- Professional Dog Trainer, AABP- Professional Dog Behavior Consultant, Diploma Animal Behavior Technology, and Diploma Canine Behavior Science & Technology. Niki has also published many articles on dog training and dog behavior and her pet dog training businesses have been featured in many publications including The New York Times.

12

Ask Leah . . . My Dog Jumps! your hand, palm facing towards you and fingers pointed up and together.

Repeat this several times. You will still be marking the behavior and following the marker with a treat.

By Leah Roberts My dog jumps on people. He is only 35 pounds but he is very athletic and excitable and he will jump up and pull a long-haired persons hair. I need this behavior to stop now.



Now give the hand signal before your dog sits. Hold your hand in position, waiting patiently and quietly, and give him a chance to process the information. When he sits, mark and treat. Repeat again several times.



Add the verbal cue. Say “sit,” and then give the hand signal. After he has complied about three times, just say “sit” and wait for him to do it. If he does, he now knows the behavior on both a verbal and hand signal cue. Don't forget to mark and reward each sit!



Up until now you have tossed the treat so you can set up your dog for faster repetitions by requiring him to stand up again. At this point, you can start to reinforce keeping him in the sitting position by handing him the treat instead. But only release it to him if his butt is still down! If he gets up, withdraw your hand and wait a moment for that caboose to hit the ground again before popping the treat into his mouth.

Why do dogs jump?

A friendly dog's reason for jumping on a person is very simple — he is looking for attention. He may want to get closer to the face to give a big, sloppy kiss, and certainly he wants to be petted and gushed over. Dogs who jump to greet are very happy and excited to see the person they are greeting. They mean no harm.

Teach him an appropriate greeting You have probably heard old-fashioned training advice that focuses on teaching the dog NOT to jump. These techniques include instructions to knee him in the chest or step on his feet, or do something else that is unpleasant or painful.

Thankfully there are better ways to deal with a dog who is misbehaving because he is too friendly besides damaging his trust in people. Modern science-based positive reinforcement training uses the reward the dog is seeking — attention — and focuses on what you would like your dog to do for it instead of jumping. A polite and acceptable way for a dog to ask for attention is to sit in front of the person he wants to greet. As an added bonus, it's an easy behavior to teach.

Teaching “sit” with a hand signal If your dog doesn't sit on cue, here is an easy way to teach him: 



Have some tasty treats handy, and just watch for a time that your dog sits. Mark the moment his butt hits the ground with a verbal “Yes!” or a clicker, and then reach for the treat and toss it so that he has to stand up to get it. Don't say the cue “sit” or use your hands or body to try to prompt him to sit. Just wait for him to do it again, and repeat. Do this several times (at least 5).

It's best if you are alone with the dog, in a place where there are no distractions, to get the most repetitions in a row.

At some point, your dog is going to think, “Hey, she's giving me a treat every time I sit!” and will start to offer the behavior on purpose instead of randomly. The way you know he is connecting his behavior with the treat is that he will either look at you as he is lowering himself into a sit, or he will sit and then look expectantly at you. When this is happening, give the hand signal for “sit” just as he begins to do it.

The traditional signal is to raise

If your dog already knows how to sit on a verbal cue, you can install the hand signal by giving it just before saying “sit.”

This is the reverse of step No. 4. The reason the new cue is always introduced first is that when it is followed by a cue your dog knows, he can learn its meaning more quickly. It's as if he's thinking, “What's that?” when you give him the unfamiliar cue, and the answer comes immediately by the presentation of the familiar cue.

Putting it together to train a polite greeting From now on, when your dog jumps up to greet you, you are going to cue him into a sit before you give him any attention. If he doesn't sit, treat him as if he is invisible.

When you are teaching the dog to sit, you are using food as reinforcement. When a dog is jumping to greet, the reinforcement he is seeking is your attention. So in this case, you will use attention as his paycheck instead of a food treat.

The hand signal is important because when your dog is very excited, he is not likely to respond to a single verbal "sit" cue. And you don't ever want to nag, "sit sit sit sit SIT!" Not only will that teach him to tune you out, but he may inadvertently learn that the cue itself is "sit sit sit sit SIT" and not perform it until it's said as many times. So say it one time, and just hold that hand (Continued on page 15)

13

2013 Key Objectives Key Objective #1 Stakeholder Products and Services

Key Objective #2 Stakeholder Industry Education and Business Development

Key Objective # 3 Community Outreach, Advocacy and Communication

Key Objective # 4 Marketing & Public Relations

PPG’s Key Objective Statements The success of PPG’s charter will be determined by the individual and collective success of itsstakeholders. The PPG leadership team understands that the key objective of each of its member is their business success and their personal achievements. PPG’s objective is the satisfaction of each stakeholder and will continue to provide products and services that further develop and support the goals and continual achievement of its stakeholders.

The PPG will provide educational opportunities to PPG members and force-free stakeholders so they have the skills, tools and resources to effectively and efficiently offer force-free training and pet care services to the pet owning community reducing the need in the marketplace for inhumane and ineffective pet care businesses, practices and philosophies.

The PPG will actively advocate positions and goals to bring about change in pet industry practices, policies and programs. PPG will be industrious in its efforts to educate pet owners and to engage and educate pet industry professionals to further the mission, vision and values, professional ethics and charter of the PPG, collectively referred to as PPG’s Guiding Principles.

PPG’s advocacy will serve the important purpose of opening the decision-making process to input from stakeholders, such as researchers, service providers, beneficiaries and the public itself. The process method of our advocacy will serve to open new dialogues which will facilitate pet industry decision-makers moving toward more informed practices, training methods, equipment and pet care philosophies. PPG’s advocacy efforts will involve a wide assortment of stakeholders to greatly strengthen our advocacy effort. The Guild’s communication message will develop awareness among the public, build collaboration and acceptance and promote action in line with our guiding principles. The PPG will use numerous tools to effectively communicate to all stakeholders to further the PPG’s charter.

The PPG marketing process will connect with customers, build a strong brand and shape the PPG marketing offerings while delivering and communicating value and creating long-term growth through effective marketing strategies and plans. PPG will be effectively marketed to build the membership, enroll more stakeholders, alliances and partners to build and broaden awareness of PPG’s charter and guiding principles. PPG will develop a marketing plan that has a set of controllable tactical marketing tools that support the growth and awareness of our services and products.

Family Paws Discounted Licensed Products for PPG Members.

Contact Jennifer Shryock to receive a 20 percent discount of these licensed products and become a licensed presenter of:

Dogs & Storks Dog & Baby Connection

14

(Continued from page 13)

signal until he is able to calm down enough to focus in on it and respond.

Extinction burst If your dog is always required to sit before he is given attention, then he will learn to automatically sit when he approaches somebody for greetings. It won't happen right away, because he already has an established pattern of jumping = attention.

Normally when you are trying to break a habit, it can get worse before it gets better as the dog goes through a psychological stage called extinction burst. In essence, he will continue to try to get the same response he expects from previous experience (i.e., attention for jumping), become frustrated when the behavior doesn't work, and try harder by escalating the behavior. But if he is never again reinforced for that behavior, it will stop (become "extinguished") and be replaced by the appropriate behavior of sitting for attention.

People experience extinction burst too. If you put money in a soda machine every day, what would happen if one day the can didn't come out? You wouldn't just give up and walk away. You might jiggle the coin handle, shake the machine, push the button several times – escalating your behavior to try to get the response you expect! It may take you several trips to the soda machine before you finally give up, realize that machine is no longer working, and stop trying to get soda out of it.

Your responses must be timely Note that there are two pieces of the puzzle in teaching appropriate greetings. It's not enough to just ignore the jumping behavior. It's just as important, if not more so, to reward the sitting behavior! At first he may sit for only a second or two. If you don't take that opportunity and immediately pet and praise him, he will become even more frustrated trying to figure out what he can possibly do to get what he wants. So you may feel like a yo-yo at first, petting, ignoring, petting, ignoring in quick succession as your dog tries to figure out what works.

your training.

The leash can come in very handy also when practicing with young children or elderly people who can get knocked down easily by a jumping dog. In this case you would tether the dog, and instruct the children (or elderly family member) to only approach the dog if he is sitting, and back up out of his reach if he gets up.

The bottom line Dogs are very good at learning what works to get them what they want. If you are consistent about ignoring your dog whenever there is a paw on your body and providing attention for that nice little sit, you will see your dog responding more and more often with the appropriate behavior. At some point, the sitting will come as automatically to him as the jumping did.

Find a Trainer If you need additional help with your jumping problem, consult the PPG directory to find a qualified force-free dog trainer near you.

ď Ł Leah Roberts is the owner of Dog Willing, which teaches owners and dogs skills that allow better communication with one another. She is a PPG founding member, a mentor trainer for the Animal Behavior College and is currently participating in the Academy for Dog Trainers online program. A nationally-respected writer about dog issues, her online articles can be found at Orlando Dog Training and Behavior Examiner and Dog Star Daily. Leah is currently writing a book on how to teach Puppy Kindergarten classes.

Consistency is key It is extremely important that everybody in your dog's life is on the same page. If even one person says, "That's okay, I don't mind" and pets him (which will happen if you don't take steps to prevent it), he will continue to jump. So you do have to be proactive about preventing other people from ruining your training. Keep him on leash when greeting people, even those coming in your house. As he greets, step on the leash so that when he tries to jump his feet are unable to leave the ground. That way others can pet him without reinforcing the jumping.

This is management, which is also an integral part of effective training. Stepping on the leash won't teach the dog anything, but it helps immensely in getting your dog to sit for greeting more quickly and reliably. The more you allow your dog to practice unwanted behaviors, the better he will be at those behaviors, and the less you can expect him to learn to perform the desired behaviors instead. Managing the environment and circumstances to prevent the unwanted behavior from ever happening will greatly enhance the efficiency of 15

Grenzen setzen (Zweiter teil) Von Dr. Ute Blaschke-Berthold © Dr. Ute Blaschke-Berthold CumCane® 2011 sichtzeichen@cumcane.de Dies ist der 2. Teil von insgesamt zwei Teilen. Um den ersten Teil in der Herbstausgabe von "Barks from the Guild," hier clicken.

Verhalten stört manchmal Verhalten ist prinzipiell störend und unerwünscht Verhalten ist gefährlich - für wen auch immer Für jede Kategorie gibt es passende Werkzeuge, um dem Verhalten des Hundes sinnvolle Grenzen zu setzen.

Zeitlich beschränkte Grenzen werden gesetzt, wenn das Verhalten des Hundes gerade jetzt unpassend ist, zu einem anderen Zeitpunkt aber durchaus erwünscht ist: unpassende Spielanträge, Kontaktaufnahme, ausdauerndes Schnüffeln beim Spazierengehen. Verhaltensunterbrechung ist eine kurzfristige Unterbrechung des Verhaltens. Die Unterbrechung soll die Häufigkeit des Verhaltens in der

Zukunft nicht verändern. Ebenso wenig sollte die Unterbrechung die Situation insgesamt (nachhaltig) negativ tönen.

Gewohnheiten bilden, die ist klügste Art, vorausschauend und dauerhaft Grenzen zu setzen. Gewohnheiten bilden setzt voraus, dass die Bezugspersonen beharrlich und stetig unerwünschtes Verhalten verhindern und von Anfang an durch erwünschtes Verhalten ersetzen. Statt Gewohnheiten aufzubauen kann dauerhaft unerwünschtes Verhalten auch durch Hemmung eingegrenzt werden. Verhaltensveränderung durch Hemmung sind Grenzen gesetzt: Angstverhalten, Aggressionsverhalten und Jagdverhalten lassen sich nicht bei jedem Hundetyp sinnvoll hemmen.

es, alle nervenden, störenden und gefährlichen Verhaltensreaktionen eines Hundes unterbinden zu wollen. Je mehr gestraft, genörgelt, gehemmt wird, desto stärker wird die Beziehung zwischen Hund und Mensch beeinflusst. Und zwar beeinflusst in dem Sinne, dass immer mehr Situationen für den Hund unsicher, gefährlich werden, wenn seine Bezugsperson in der Nähe ist. Das kann kein vernünftig denkender Mensch wollen! Die Liste der unerwünschten Verhaltensreaktionen muss also nach Prioritäten strukturiert werden!

Verknüpfen von Objekten als STOP-Signale. So können Grenzen auch gesetzt werden: Warten an realen Grenzen wie Tür, Strassenrand,Wegrand, Gelände-Übergänge. Hier wirkt die Kombination aus positiver Verstärkung und Gewohnheit.

Hunde akzeptieren Grenzen besser, wenn ihnen befriedigende, zur Motivation passende Alternativen geboten werden können.

Grenzen werden in ebenso kleinen Schritten aufgebaut, vermittelt und gesichert wie jedes andere Verhalten auch.

Keine Zeit dafür, weil,das Verhalten gefährlich ist? Gut, dann haben wir als absolute Grenze immer noch das gute alte Management in der Werkzeugkiste. Management ist eine Möglichkeit, Grenzen zu setzen: das unerwünschte Verhalten kann nicht ausgeübt werden. Das ist eine Grenze!

Wichtig: Grenzen setzen baut kein erwünschtes Verhalten auf, sondern hemmt unerwünschtes. Erwünschtes Verhalten wird am besten durch positive Verstärkung aufgebaut.

Verhalten, das für den Menschen einen hohen Stellenwert hat, kann durch negative Verstärkung aufgebaut werden.

Negative Verstärkung hilft beim Priorisieren, das so aufgebaute Verhalten rückt auf der Dringlichkeitsliste des Hundes nach oben. In der Theorie sollte es für negative Verstärkung ausreichen, wenn das Störende, Unangenehme aufhört. In der Praxis haben wir es aber mit einer anderen Umwelt zu tun. Es empfiehlt sich, nach erfolgter Kooperation des Hundes weiter bestehendes kooperatives Verhalten positiv zu verstärken.

Hemmung = Bestrafung: Regeln des Bestrafens müssen eingehalten werden:  Immer beobachten, sofort reagieren  Niemals Grenzverletzungen zulassen  Alternativverhalten zur Perfektion bringen Es ist also an erster Stelle notwendig, Prioritäten zu setzen.

Welche Verhaltensreaktionen des Hundes sind unerwünscht?

So eine Liste kann recht umfangreich sein, abhängig vom Hundetyp und seinen Lebensumständen. Wenig sinnvoll ist

(Continued on page 25)

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PPG Worldwide … Setting Limitations (Part II) Von Dr. Ute Blaschke-Berthold © Dr. Ute Blaschke-Berthold CumCane® 2011 sichtzeichen@cumcane.de Editor‘s note: This is the second part in a series. To read the first portion as featured in the October 2012 BFTG, click here.

Giving the Behavior a Framework The smartest way to give a dogs behavior a framework is with the development of “habits.” Habits ensure the so-called “limitations” when the dogs handler acts such that unwanted behavior is avoided and if necessary replaced with acceptable alternatives. With this approach both dog and handler learn another manner of conducting themselves and thus also win a sense of security and this makes provocative situations for the most part unnecessary.

And in spite of that, situations will occurs in “real life” in which we will need to interrupt unwanted behavior. This is where a priority list consisting of the necesary and important “limitations” can be helpful in keeping track of what should be expected and can help avoid unnecessary stressful and frustrating behavior interruptions. In this manner you can concentrate on the important behaviors and how to build those up or reduce the unwanted ones:

can have the opposite effect; that of giving the dog a sense of security.

In addition to that, then offering an acceptable alternative to that behavior the dog wants, but is undesirable to us, can make it easier for the dog to accept the imposed “limitation.”

“Lim itations” organize behavioral possibilities and express personal interests.

They are also important for survival and harmoniously living together. Every life form experiences these. It's therefore not important THAT “limitations are set, but rather how they are set. They shouldn't be implemented against the animal, but have to be selected with purpose, effectively communicated and secured. In this manner the dog learns the acceptable frameworks but without unnecessary stress.





What “limitations” are actually for important “real life” with your dog?

zusammengefasst von Sarah Fee Ketelsen, DogFeeling, www.dogfeeling.net, Deutschland



What behaviors are only occasionally disturbing?



What behaviors always disturb?

English translation by Leonard "Buzz" Cecil, Auf den Hund Gekommen, www.auf-den-hund-gekommen.net, Switzerland



What behaviors are dangerous?

In the case of behaviors which only occasionally disturb, we want to have solutions which can be used depending upon the specific situation, but not automatically in all situations.

We need a method to positively interrupt the dog. If however a behavior always disturbs, we need a method that assures that the undesired behavior isn't repeated and can be replaced by another one that is still gratifying for the dog.

Of course avoidance of a certain behavior could mean using some kind of punishment and that means that the rules of punishment must be adhered to. The dogs behavior must be constantly observed and every single even near-occurance must be punished while a parallel alternative behavior is trained. If you can't stop every single instance of the unwanted behavior, it will not be “avoided” by the dog. This shows how extremely difficult it is to effectively use avoidance as modification method. But dangerous behaviors can be effectively dealt with through management, especially where the above mentioned dilligence is impossible, thus making further performance of that dangerous behavior impossible.

It's also important to be very clear in expressing that anything the dog perceives as unpleasant can have a negative effect on the relationship between dog and handler, and can lead to the dog even feeling always unsure in the handlers presence.

Therefore not imposing unnecessary “limitations” as well as giving optical and acoustic warnings of impending “limitations”

klik hier voor de

Vertaling! haga clic aquí para la

Traduccion! clique aqui para

Tradução!

17

Antijagdtraining! Wie man Hunde vom Jagen abhält

By Pia Gröning and Ariane Ullrich Pia Gröning (link auf die Dozentenseite) (www.pfotenakademie.de) und Ariane Ullrich (http:// www.mensch-hund-lernen.de/) haben hiermit das Standardwerk zu diesem Thema geschrieben!

Hund abzustimmenden Superjackpot konditioniert wird, und nur eingesetzt wird, wenn der Hund auf das "normalen" Rückrufsignal nicht reagiert.

Aus demInhalt:  Hintergrund: Bestandteile der Jagd / Die Rolle der Genetik/ Der Lerneffekt  Arbeiten mit den Lerngesetzen, Ressourcenkontrolle/ Ich kann das Buch allen Hundehaltern empfehlen, besonders Verstärkung, Brückensignale, Signaleinführung, Welpenbesitzern. Selbst, wenn der Hund keinen Jagdtrieb Generalisieren, Variable Verstärkung, Strafe hat / jemals entwickelt, hat man durch Training der genannten Übungen einen Großteil des Grundlagentrainings erledigt.  Überblick über die praktische Arbeit, Die Übungen sind allesamt mit einer Vielzahl von Hunden der Schleppleinentraining, Wenn der Hund "verloren" geht unterschiedlichsten Rassen/Rassemixe erprobt, leicht Drei Spezialübungen, "Ende!", "Langsamer!", "Raus da!" verständlich erklärt und ebenso leicht in den Alltag zu Basistraining: Orientierungsübungen, Rück-Blicke einfangen, "Schade!" – Übung, Blickkontakt unter Signal, integrieren.

Verstecktraining, Weg- und Richtungswechsel, Die größte Stärke des hier vorgestellten AJTs ist vielleicht Umkehrsignal seine Flexibilität: Es empfiehlt sich, das Buch erst einmal  Impulskontrollübungen, Spannung halten, Abregen aus ganz durch zu lesen, und sich dann ein oder zwei Übungen dem Spiel, Abregen mit der Reizangel, Bleiben mit heraus zu picken, die Ihnen für Ihren Hund am wichtigsten ablenkender Hilfsperson, Bleiben ohne Hilfsperson, erscheint, wo schon Grundzüge Kontrolle am Wild vorhanden sind, auf die Sie aufbauen  Der Superschlachtruf, Aufbau können, oder die am leichtesten in Ihren mit (Wurf-)Spielzeug, Aufbau mit Tagsablauf integrierbar sind.

Futter. Aufbau mit kreativer Belohnung, Vorsicht klik hier voor de „Steht“ Ihre individuelle Basis, bauen Verhaltenskette!

Sie eine weitere Übung auf.  Das Unterbrechungssignal, Trainingserfahrenere Halter können Futter in der Hand, Futter am auch parallel an mehreren Signalen Boden, Futter von Fremden, arbeiten.

Unterbrechungssignal mit Ball haga clic aquí para la  Der Aufbau des "Komm!“" Erfahrungsgemäß braucht nicht jeder Signals, Generalisierung des Hund alle aufgeführten Übungen und "Komm!" Signals, Abrufen von Signale – m an k ann sich das Futter/Spielzeug , Ablenkung durch Trainingsprogramm sehr individuell auf Tiere im Gehege, Ablenkung durch die eigenen und die Bedürfnisse seines clique aqui para wildlebende Tiere Hundes zusammenstellen. Da  Sitz/Platz in Entfernung ausführlich erläutert wird, wie Lernen  Impulskontrolle – Vorstehen funktioniert, ist der Leser auch in der  Gegenkonditionierung Lage, einzelne Übungen zu  "Klick for Blick" individualisieren.  Alternative Aufgaben, Geistige Auslastung, Nasenarbeit, Freies Weiterhin lernt der Leser, seinen Hund Formen, Körperliche Auslastung, und sein Jagdverhalten frühzeitig an Kontrolliert Jagen lassen, Nach Mäusen buddeln, seiner Körpersprache zu erkennen, sodass er in der Lage ist, Wildfährte an der Leine verfolgen, Coursing, "Fernsehen" je nach Situation zu entscheiden, ob der Hund freilaufen für Hunde, Jagdpächter und Förster Sämtliche Hilfsmittel werden als solche behandelt, und nicht  AJT mit 2 Hunden, Gleichzeitiges Arbeiten als „Durchsetzungszwangsmittel“ - z.B. dient die Schleppleine  Orientierung am Menschen nur dazu, dass der Hund nicht „durchgehen“ kann, wird aber  Prävention uvm. nicht dazu eingesetzt, „Kommandos durchzusetzen“.

Vertaling!

Traduccion!

Tradução!

Vorgestellt werden auch sinnvolle Ersatzbeschäftigungen, die dicht genug an der Motivation der „Jagdgeier“ dran sind, sodass sie vollwertiger Ersatz sind, und als hochwertige Bestärkungen eingesetzt werden können. Es wird nicht stumpf immer nur mit Leckerchen belohnt.

Weiterer zentraler Punkt ist der Superschlachtruf, der zunächst ohne Ablenkung auf einen auf den individuellen

 Zum Buch ist auch eine Lehr-DVD erhältlich, auf der der Aufbau der einzelnen Übungen gezeigt wird) Reviewed by Martine Schoppe, www.chakanyuka.de, Germany

Chakanya,

http://

18

Anti-hunt Training: How to keep your dog from Hunting

By Pia Gröning and Ariane Ullrich Pia Gröning and Ariane Ullrich released the standard reference on the subject of controlling predatory behavior in dogs.

This book is a recommendable read for every dog owner, but especially for puppy owners. Even if your dog shows no predatory behavior or displays no keenness on hunting/ chasing, the lessons explained will guide you through most of your dog’s basic training.

All lessons are field-tested on a variety of breeds and crossbreeds, readily understandable and easily applicable to your daily routines and training. Flexibility is probably the most outstanding feature of Gröning and Ullrich’s trainings protocol for predatory dogs. It is advisable to go through the entire read to start with just to pick one or two lessons meeting your dog’s requirements, like those your dog is already a little familiar with or those that are easily applicable to your daily routines. As soon has you have taught the basic skills, you can integrate the next step or lesson.

Those who are familiar with dog training can also work on several cues at the same time. The training routine can be varied according to both, the owner’s and dog’s individual needs.



Working with Learning Principles, Resource Control/ Reinforcement, Bridging Cues Introduction of Cues, Generalizing, Variable Reinforcement, Punishment



Lessons Overview, Long-Lead Training, If the Dog “Gets Lost”



Three Extra Lessons: “Stop!” “Slower!” “Out!”

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Basic Training: Orientation, Make Your Dog Look Backward, “Pity!”-Lesson, Eye contact on Cue, Hide and Seek Training, Changing Directions, Turnaround Cue



Impulse Control Training, Steadiness, Calming down after playing, Calming down after playing with the chase pole, "Stay!“ with Distracting Helper , "Stay!“ without Helper, Controlling Your Dog near Game



Emergency Recall, (Throw) Toy Method, Food Method.

Creative Reward Method, Caveat: Behavior Chain!



Interrupter Signal, Food in Hand, Food on Ground, Food

by Strangers, Stop Signal with a Ball  Introducing the “Come!“ Signal, Generalising the “Come!“ Signal, Recall from Toys , Distraction by Animals in Compounds, Distraction by Wildlife 

 Impulse Control - Pointing 

Furthermore, Gröning and Ullrich present useful compensatory activities, which resemble the motivational triggers of keen dogs, thus offering adequate compensation and can also be used as rewards for your dog.

“Antijagdtraining” also focuses on establishing an emergency recall. The dog will be conditioned on an individual “super jackpot.” The emergency recall is to be applied only if the dog is unresponsive to the “usual” recall.

Contents: .  Background knowledge: The Hunting/Chasing Instinct/ The Role of Genetics/ The Learning effect

Counter Conditioning

 Clicking for looking at game 

Alternative Behaviors, “Brainwork”, Tracking, Free Shaping, Physical exercises, Controlled Hunting, Digging for Mice, Tracing Game On-Lead, Coursing, “Dog Telly“, Tenants of a Shoot and Foresters



Predatory Behavior Management with Two Dogs, Working Two Dogs at the Same Time



Focussing the Handler



Prevention

“Antijagdtraining” gives detailed explanations on how learning takes place. Thus, the reader is placed in the position to individualize several lessons.

Furthermore, the reader learns to understand his dog’s body language. This enables her/him to make a situationdependent decision if the dog can be allowed off-lead. The authors regard all equipment as mere aids and not as means of coercion to assert authority. The long-lead, for example, is just a means to prevent the dog from “bolting.”

Sit/Down at a Distance

 Gröning, P: Antijagdtraining Paperback: 224 Pages Publishing House: Menschhund! Verlag; Auflage: 9th Ed..

(December 2011) Language: German ISBN-10: 3981082125 ISBN-13: 978-3981082128 Also available: Didactive DVD giving in-depth information on the various lessons English summarization by Martine Schoppe, Chakanya, http:// www.chakanyuka.de, Germany

19

Der Internationale Berufsverband der Hundetrainer IBH e.V. Die Tatsache, dass die Berufsbezeichnung des Hundetrainers/ Verhaltensberaters in Deutschland und weiteren europäischen Ländern nicht geschützt ist und derzeit nach wie vor keine einheitlichen und verbindlichen Ausbildungsrichtlinien vorliegen, führt dazu, dass Hundehalter auf der Suche nach einer guten Hundeschule nicht selten unsicher sind, für welchen Anbieter sie sich entscheiden sollen. Aus diesem Grund entschlossen sich am 30.01.2009 ambitionierte und modern arbeitende Hundeschulen und -trainer zur Gründung des Internationalen Berufsverbands der Hundetrainer IBH e.V. Seit seiner Gründung ist der IBH e.V. auf ca. 130 Mitglieder kontinuierlich angewachsen; ihm gehören Mitglieder aus Deutschland, dem Elsass, Italien, Luxemburg, Österreich sowie der Schweiz an.

Das Hauptaugenmerk der Mitglieder des IBH liegt auf dem respektvollen Umgang mit dem Hund-Mensch-Team sowie auf der gewaltfreien Ausbildung/ Erziehung des Partners Hund. Dies schließt die Verpflichtung mit ein, keine Methoden oder Hilfsmittel zum Einsatz zu bringen, die dem Hund Schmerzen oder Angst bereiten oder ihn in seiner Würde verletzen. Die kontinuierliche Weiterbildung nach neuesten wissenschaftlichen Erkenntnissen ist ebenfalls nicht nur ein Muss für jedes IBH-Mitglied, sondern eine Selbstverständlichkeit.

Der IBH e.V. sieht eine seiner vordringlichsten Aufgaben darin, verbindliche Qualifikationsmerkmale für Hundetrainer zu schaffen und so in nicht allzu ferner Zukunft für eine einheitliche und anerkannte Ausbildung zu sorgen. Die kollegiale, konstruktive und faire Zusammenarbeit mit staatlichen Stellen, Tierärztekammern, den Medien sowie anderen Hundetrainerverbänden ist hierbei zwingend und selbstverständlich.

Schritt ist die Zertifizierung der Hundeschulen der dem IBH angehörenden Mitglieder. Kunden einer dem IBH angeschlossenen Hundeschule profitieren somit nicht nur von einer umfangreichen und nachweisbaren, sondern auch stetig vom Verband überprüften Qualifikation der IBHHundetrainer.

Neben dem Training für Grundkommandos und Co. widmen sich viele der IBHMitglieder mit Leidenschaft den besonderen Fällen. So finden sich unter den IBHHundeschulen und -Trainern solche, die sich auf die Arbeit mit Hunden mit problematischem Verhalten spezialisiert haben, weiterhin Ernährungsberater, TTouch-Practitioner, Trainer mit Ausbildung zum Tierheilpraktiker oder Physiotherapeuten oder solche, die im Besonderen für den Tierschutz und mit Tierschutzhunden arbeiten. Vielfach besteht eine bereits langjährige Erfahrung. Das umfassende Wissen weit über die reine Ausbildung/ Erziehung hinaus garantiert den Hundeschul-Kunden eine Betreuung in allen Fragen rund um den Hund.

Zahlreiche IBH-Mitglieder veranstalten weiterhin regelmäßig Seminare und Vorträge zu den verschiedensten Themen rund um den Hund. Das kollegiale Miteinander der IBH-Mitglieder und die gegenseitige Unterstützung bei besonderen Problemstellungen ermöglicht den Kunden eine Rundum-Betreuung, auch wenn der benötigte Spezialist zu weit von ihrem Wohnort entfernt sein sollte.

Weitere Informationen zum IBH e.V., aktuelle Neuigkeiten und Informationen zu den angeschlossenen Hundeschulen siehe http://www.ibh-hundeschulen.de/



Seit 3.12.2011 ist der IBH e.V. TÜV-zertifiziert; ein weiterer 20

PPG Allies with International Professional Dog Trainers' Organization The Pet Professional Guild is proud to announce, that it is entering into an official strategic alliance with the German force-free trainers' organization Der Internationale Berufsverband der Hundetrainer (IBH e.V.). The two organizations look forward to sharing resources and supporting each other’s efforts to improve the quality of interaction with dogs, no matter where they or their humans live. Here is a message of introduction from the IBH e.V.'s president, Hr. Thomas Bierer: The fact that the title of dog trainer/dog behavior consultant is not protected/ licensed in Germany and other European countries and there is currently no uniform and mandatory training policy in place leads to the fact that dog owners are often unsure when looking for a good dog trainer or training school. For this reason, a group of ambitious and modern trainers at their individual schools decided on Jan. 30, 2009 to establish the international professional organization of dog trainers IBH e.V.. Since its inception, the IBH e.V. has grown steadily to about 130 members from Germany, Alsace (in eastern France), Italy, Luxembourg, Austria and Switzerland.

expected.

The IBH e.V. has been federally-certified as an educational organization since Dec. 3, 2011. Another planned step is the certification of the members belonging to the IBH e.V. and their dog schools. Clients of a dog school affiliated to the IBH e.V. already benefit from the comprehensive testing conducted by the IHV e.V. which verifies the qualifications of the dog trainer which were necessary for that trainer/school become a member of the IBH e.V.

In addition to the training for basic behaviors, many of the IBH e.V. members are pasklik hier voor de sionately devoted to the socalled special cases. There are many who specialize in working with dogs with problematic behavior, are pet nuhaga clic aquí para la tritionists, TTouch practitioners, physiotherapists, or who work in particular for animal welfare and with shelter dogs.

This longstanding experience clique aqui para and comprehensive knowledge, which goes far beyond the pure dog training aspects, guarantees the dog-school clients care in all aspects of cliquez ici pour la their dogs. Many members of the IBH e.V. regularly organize seminars and lectures on the most diverse topics related to dogs. This all-round support enables clients to profit from the collegial sharThe members of the IBH ing between the IBH e.V. e.V. focus on respectful members and the mutual asdealings with the dog-human team, as well as on sistance they receive from each other for special probthe force-free training/education of the dog. This includes lems, even if the required specialist should be located too the obligation that no methods or tools are to be used that far from the client's place of residence. cause the dog pain or fear, or that violate the dog's dignity.

The trainers' continuous further education according to the For further information concerning the IBH e.V., including latest scientific knowledge is not only a must-have for every the latest news and information from the member schools, member of the IBH e.V., but is a simply a matter of course. see http://www.IBH e.V. -hundeschulen.de/

Vertaling!

Traduccion!

Tradução!

Traduction!

The IBH e.V. sees one of its most pressing tasks as creating mandatory qualification criteria for dog trainers, and so in the not-too-distant future it will ensure consistent and recognized standards for professional dog trainers. The collegial, constructive and fair co-operation with government agencies, animal medical associations, the media and other dog trainer associations is imperative and, of course, to be

— Thomas Bierer, President, IBH e.V., Germany English summarization by Leonard Cecil, Auf den Hund Gekommen, http://www.auf-den-hund-gekommen.net, Switzerland



21

Business Bytes—Preparing to Sell Your Facility veterinary bills for personal dogs, automobile expenses, travel/ vacation expenses in conjunction with a tradeshow, etc. When you prepare your facility to sell, you want to be able to clearly illustrate these perks to potentials buyers. If these perks are not listed separately on your income statements, prepare a separate document for each year identifying these. The buyer needs to clearly see the full financial benefit the business provides to you, and the bottom line on the tax return is not it.

By Teija Heikkila It’s time. You've poured your heart, soul and sweat into the business and now you’re considering selling. All facility owners find themselves in this situation at some point in their career and are filled with questions such as, “How much is my business worth?” and “How do I go about selling?” and “How can I sell without my staff and customers knowing?” and “How do I prepare the business and property to be most attractive to a buyer so I can get the highest possible price?” In the next few issues, we'll explore these questions starting today with the ever important preparation.

Preparation is the key to a successful sale! In today’s market, not only do you have to impress the buyer, you also have to impress the lender. For this purpose, I emphasize the Inside/ Out approach.

The “Inside” refers to your business' “inners,” its financial situation. Before you can successfully present your business, and its financial rewards, it's worth giving the financials a good scrubbing and double-checking. One of the most important, if not the main criterion, for a buyer is the financial condition of the business. After all, a buyer is looking for an income to support their family and to pay the mortgage. And, before the buyer can buy, the lender has to lend, and that’s a whole other article (I’m sure you can guess that the financials pay a large role in that). Good, clean financial statements will clearly show a buyer the benefits of buying your facility and instill trust in you and how you operate the business.

Specifically, be prepared to present the following: • Past three years of tax returns; • Past three years of profit-and-loss statements and balance sheets; • All income broken down by the services you provide (boarding, training, grooming, daycare, etc.); • If the business pays you, the owner, as an employee (and you received a W-2 from the business at the end of the year), separate your payroll from the staff payroll on the profit-and-loss statements. You might want to a call this “account officer” or “owner salary. “Draws” that are not W2 reportable income are not separated, they are reflected in the net income/loss number.

• Make sure that all year-end adjustments prepared by your CPA are properly entered into your bookkeeping system so that the tax returns closely match the yearly income statements.

• If you are using a certified business broker, he or she will prepare a re-casted income statement highlighting the true earnings power of the business. This is an important document that a lender will base, in part, their lending decision on as well. If you don’t have a business broker representing you, ask your CPA to prepare this document or to refer you to a CPA who is familiar with the concept and can assist you.

The buyer, or his advisors, will not make assumptions about your business’ financial strength. It is up to you, and anybody representing you, to show the financial benefits and potential of the business. Seeking professional assistance in this aspect is a must; the return you’ll get on that investment should come back to you multifold. Remember, not only are you presenting the financials to a buyer, but to a lender. And I’m sure you are aware of the strict lending climate nowadays; poorly presented financial statements don’t stand a chance.

Now, let’s move on to the physical characteristics of your facility and how to properly prepare the property for a sale. I call this the Outside Approach, and first impressions count! Buyers are, by nature, suspicious. They will look for anything in your facility to justify a discounted offer, or even worse, for a reason not to buy. In today’s tough climate, buyers are more afraid and risk aversive, so representing your facility in its absolute best light is vital. Put yourself in the buyer’s shoes, or even better, ask a friend or associate, to tour the facility and write down every thing that caught their eye as “needing attention.” Be honest and take those rose-colored glasses off!

Whether leased or owned, a buyer will have a professional inspection as part of their due diligence, so be proactive and check the following:  

   

Fix all broken gates, holes in walls, chain link fence that’s destroyed or in bad condition; Paint any areas that could use a bit of sprucing up — paint is cheap and easy to do yourself, a great liquid makeover especially in the reception area where it should look fresh, clean and contribute to that everimportant first impression; Replace all broken light bulbs; Do a deep cleaning of the kennel — clean all corners, crevices, walls, ceilings, etc.; Wash walls, remove cobwebs, stuck on hair, etc.; Organize storage closets, food prep and storage areas;

• Personal Perks/Expenses. Most business owners get “perks” from their business in the form of business-paid 22

...How to Prepare Your Facility For Selling    

Scrub all grooming rooms, replace broken crate doors, clean dryers, check the caulking on the tubs, organize shampoo bottles, make sure all hydraulic tables function; Check all doors and windows to assure operability; Give staff fresh shirts with your logo on them; De-clutter, de-clutter, de-clutter because clutter prevents the buyer from seeing the structures — allow their eyes to be open.

Property Whether you own the property or not, it’s important to present a neat and tidy appearance. The condition of the property affects the buyer’s mind the second they drive up to the kennel.

Buyers make the assumption that if the property is unkempt, so is the business. Make a good first impression with the property, and the buyer enters the kennel with a positive “screen,” make a bad impression and the negative mindset will spill into other aspects of the transaction.

Property make-over items:  Weed-whack! That’s the single most important landscaping item you can do. Trim up all walkways, parking areas, plant areas. Kill all weeds in any cracks. A weed-free property not only creates a sharp, maintained look, it says “we care!” 

Clean up dead trees, bushes, plants — even the ones you think you can “save.” Wilted or almost-dead plants send a very negative message and create an uncaring picture;



Refresh all gravel. Get a load of fresh gravel and have it spread in areas that are a bit “thin” and bare. Make nice straight edges between gravel and grass;



Critically, inspect the paint on the buildings. If it’s all worn out, peeling and faded, bite the bullet and have it painted.

You’ll loose more money in a reduced offer or get dinged by the inspector anyway;



Check all windows and doors. If you see condensation, fix it, it’ll come up in an inspection anyway. Replace all cracked windows and fix doors;



Caulk all seams, windows, etc. that need caulking;



Fix all obviously-broken items;



Buy fresh plants that are seasonal and native to you area; plant or put in pots;



Declutter, declutter, declutter. Get rid of those crates and equipment stored in the ‘back forty’ behind the buildings.

If you have to make excuses for an area, clean it up.

If you have a residence on the property, follow the same steps as outlined for the kennel facility, in addition to:

   

Make the house more “anonymous;” remove those breedspecific mugs, paintings and trinkets; Think paint! And yes, in boring beige colors; Clean the carpets, remove all stains and odors. Most buyers are animal lovers, but even that has its limits; Declutter!

The Internet is a great resource in how to get your residence “sell ready,” so I won’t get into any more detail in here. www.realtor.com, among other websites, has great articles with check sheets.

Emotionally Disconnect emotionally from the business and the property.

Selling a facility is “just business” and the more you can disconnect emotionally, the higher likelihood that you’ll actually sell. Many sellers are their worst enemy and cause a potential buyer to walk away due to being too emotionally-vested and not properly prepared. Focus on what your life will be like after the sale and have a plan in place. Many of us “are” our business, so it’s a good time to do some soulsearching to find another passion that you can look forward to.

Selling a kennel is not a cake walk. Proper preparation of the business, the property and your mindset will not only influence whether you can sell or not — it will influence the final price. You’ll most likely only sell one business in your lifetime, so make the best of it!

Ever wonder what really creates value in a business and how price is determined? We’ll tackle that in the Spring issue of Barks from the Guild!

 Teija Heikkila is the president and principal broker for National Kennel Sales & Appraisals, which has physical offices in Washington and Colorado. Her career in the animal care industry started in 1988 with the opening of her first dog daycare/boarding/grooming/training facility in Washington state.

After 16 years and three successful expansions later, she sold the business in 2004. Her passion for the industry made her decide to become a Specialty Broker to assist other facility owners in selling their businesses. She became a Business Broker and Appraiser by International Business Brokers Association and the Institute of Business Appraisals. The brokerage holds real estate broker licenses in several states and is active in professional organizations within the animal care industry as well as the business brokering/appraisal industry.

She provides services to sellers and buyers alike, from business valuations to selling, buying and obtaining financing.

23

PPG Member Profile: Name:

Denise O'Moore, ADip CBM, MIACE

Business Name:

Puppy Power!

Location:

Dublin, Ireland

Email:

dooda.dom@gmail.com

Telephone No.:

353 1 8200518

Web Site:

https://www.facebook.com/denise.omoore

Tell us a little bit about your own pets:

I have always had a random selection of pets, ranging from chipmunks, rats, hamsters, hermit crabs, cats and dogs. At the moment I have two dogs, Feebie, a Swiss Shepherd and Edgar, a labrador retriever. I call them mine but truth is I only keep them until they are approximately two years old then they get matched with children who have various forms of disabilities.

What do you consider your area of expertise:

Behavior and training

Why did you become a dog trainer or pet care provider?

About 15 years ago I was diagnosed with myalgic encephalomyelitis. At the time I was working in film and design areas and had to give it all up. For years I wasn't capable of doing anything but once I started to re-recuperate I realized how lucky I actually was to have this time to think about what I really wanted to do! I was always at my happiest when surrounded by animals so it was a very natural choice for me to move into the area. Although my strength wasn't up enough to go work every day, I was able to study and do volunteer work in pounds, day care centers and with the Irish Dogs for the Disabled -- I still volunteer with them as trainer and supervisor of puppies in training. Way to turn a negative into a positive! Haven't looked back since.

Are you a crossover trainer or have you always been a force-free trainer?

Yes, I have always been a force-free trainer. I believe in respect and understanding, not force. I admire any trainer who does crossover, it couldn't be easy to step out of their comfort zone and disregard methods they were use to for so long.

What drives you to be a force-free professional and why is it important to you?

No animal should suffer at the hands of another. We chose to have an animal in our homes putting it as our responsibility for their welfare regardless of what species they may be. I find the concept of man's innate need to control and dominate everything quite pathetic. Our pets give us so much it's only right we respect them for the species they are. The idea of “force-free� can come across as alien to so many, which is why I feel it so important to educate and help anyone who asks.

W h at aw a r d s , competition placements, have you and your dog(s) achieved using Force Free methods?

I haven't ever placed any of my dogs in competitions as they all get trained to do everyday tasks like taking in the post, turning the lights on and off, opening doors and presses, picking up dropped items, emptying washing machines and helping take off socks, gloves jackets and hats. Sounds boring, these are things a majority of us take for granted and do ourselves but to a child with a disability this can be an impossible dream. I can honestly say all the dogs are trained force-free as I do most of the training and work with our volunteers around my area. So awards, no, but achievements? That would have to be that moment you see the dog and child working together for the first time. Nothing is more rewarding than seeing that bond develop.

Who has most influenced your career and how?

Adam Miklosi -- his passion and enthusiasm for his research and studies is contagious. Any study or book of his I have read inspires me, I have always been interested in research and hope to go in that direction some day. Jean Donaldson -- I think Jean is one of these people with a magnetic personality, her way of communicating through books, videos and seminars is very clear, strong and entertaining. She gives people the confidence to try. She does everything with ease, and is very easy to learn from.

How has the PPG helped you to become a more complete trainer?

Just being part of such a large group has opened up a new dimension for me -- having access to so many trainers and behaviorists all in one place and all sharing the same goal. I have always been a force-free trainer and am very proud to say that, and it's a boost your confidence when you know you’re not the only one so you must be doing something right!

24

(GRENZEN continued from page 16)

Die Körpersprache des Menschen spielt beim Setzen von Grenzen eine große Rolle. Wir können unseren Körper als Ganzes einsetzen oder aber einzelne Körperteile wie z.B. eine Hand, wenn der Hund zu nahe an den Tisch kommt. Dies ist ein Beispiel dafür, dass Kommunikation aus Verhaltensreaktionen und damit auch aus Konsequenzen besteht. Jeder Versuch, diese Anteile voneinander zu trennen, führt lediglich zu einer willkürlichen, künstlichen Einteilung. Grenzen setzen durch körperlichen Einsatz ist das Anwenden von Drohsignalen. Dabei sind zwei Dinge zu beachten: 1. Drohungen sind graduell einzusetzen, je nach Sensibilität des Hundes.

2. Drohsignale sind optische Signale. Der Hund sieht sie; er sieht es aber auch, wenn die Drohung leer bleiben muss, z.B. auf Distanz. Deswegen ist es sinnvoll, körperlichen Drohsignalen ein hörbares, ein akustisches Signal vorweg zu schalten.

-Grenzen sind das Sichern von Regeln -Regeln müssen sinnvoll sein -Regeln dürfen nicht unnötig einschränken -Innerhalb der Grenzen müssen die meisten Bedürfnisse des Hundes so gut wie möglich befriedigt werden -Grenzen werden aufgebaut durch -Management -Gewohnheiten bilden -Verhaltensunterbrechung -Verhaltenshemmung = Bestrafung -Grenzen können z.T. Durch positive Verstärkung aufgebaut werden -Bedrohliche, störende Elemente machen Grenzen deutlich -Sehr sparsam und mit Ankündigung einsetzen



What are some of your favorite positive reinforcement techniques for most commonly encountered client-dog problems?

“Drop,” a video put up by Chriag Patel a long time ago, in which he demonstrates with ease how to teach such an important cue in a fun way. I have used this method so many times as it can transfer across so many behaviors -- it works on labs (I know it worked on mine!), but seriously, it has worked on scavengers, thieves, sock-gobblers and recently coprophagia. If it's the client that's the problem I make them play the clicker game for sweets; it gets a laugh out of them, but more importantly it makes them understand communication. Most clients, after playing the game, have said they now look at their dog in a completely different light and wonder how the poor thing learned anything to begin with.

What is the reward you get out of a day's training with people and their dogs?

Knowing that maybe there is one less dog out there who is being misunderstood, shouted at or being called stupid. Many clients complain about their dog doing this and that so it is rewarding when you successfully communicate to them why, how and what to do. Suddenly the dog is seen as a dog and not a small furry human that should understand the social and physical dynamics of a human society.

What is the favorite part of your job?

Getting to meet so many dogs! It really is -- I love meeting dogs and their owners, especially repeats when they have come along so far.

What is the funniest or craziest situation you have been in with a pet and their owner:

I was asked to see a pet dog whose owner wanted him to bark at the door when anyone came to it.

I say “Ok, we will teach him speak.” When I arrived the dog was draped along the couch, he quickly got up and greeted me by jumping on me, flattening me against the wall, biting at my hair and slobbering on my face. He followed us into the kitchen and climbed onto one of the chairs then licked the table followed by jumping down and drinking from the kitchen tap. As we went through the questionnaire he got into my work bag, ate all the goodies, robbed and buried one of the toys from it, then tried to pee on said bag and my leg. I asked the client, “other than not barking was there any other behaviors you would like to address?” thinking this was probably going to take a lot more than one page and wondering where to start on this one the client responded – “no, I just want him to bark at the door. He's very good at everything else.” I sat there stunned but learned a valuable lesson: never judge or presume anything! The dog wasn't bold -- he was just being a dog and was never shown an alternative, whereas the client… Well, I have no idea what her excuse was.

What advice would you give to a new trainer starting out:

Know your limits and never be afraid to ask for help. Question everything you are unsure about and go with your instincts.  25

The Pet Professional Guild membership offers a variety of benefits for the force-free dog training and pet care community and others interested in the behavior and care of pets. It is the Mercedes Benz of the Pet Industry. The Guild is not designed to attract the masses — we aim to attract the best. The only pet care providers and dog trainers that are listed on our pages abide by all our guiding principles and are proud members of the Guild.

Membership Levels        





Membership Benefits

 Full Member, Dog Training - A Professional Dog Training Business Owner.  Associate Member, Dog Training – An Employee of a Dog  Training Professional.

Cat Behavior Consultant - A Cat Behavior and/or Cat Train-  ing Professional.  Veterinarian Member - A State Licensed Veterinarian Professional.  Veterinarian Technician - A Licensed Veterinary Technician Professional.

Pet Care Professional - A Professional Pet Care Service Pro-  vider.  Pet Grooming Professional - A Professional Pet Groomer.

Provisional Member, Dog Training Student - A dog training  student or dog training apprentice or a professional dog trainer looking for support and education to make the transi tion to force free dog training methods.

Provisional Member, Pet Care Business - A pet care student   or individual looking to open his or her own pet care busi ness.  Equine Professional. A Professional who specializes in Equine training  

An electronic copy of our Proud to be a Member Badge.

The Guild membership certificate.

Group insurance policy pricing.

Access to a minimum of one FREE educational webcast each month.

Discounted educational programs via third party providers.

Discounted pricing on print materials, marketing collateral and sales aids through our online member print store.

A monthly newsletter.

A quarterly FREE online copy of our "Barks From The Guild" magazine publication.

Networking opportunities with fellow members.

Public relations and news releases.

Community outreach programs.

PPG branded client handouts.

Marketing Tools.

Multiple vendor discounts across pet industry partners.

Annual industry pet business survey.

PPG-licensed products and services.

26

Our Vendor Partners — They Support You! Check out these participating businesses for special PPG benefits!

The Clicker Company

Family Paws

Force Free Shopping

Doggone Safe

Membership Benefits

DogWise

PPG Business Liability Insurance FAQ

Look What I can Do Pet Supplies

2013 PPG Membership Certificates Now available. You can download them here. Enter your name, print and display proudly.

You Can Advertise in Barks from the Guild!

FULL PAGE

$145

1/2 page Horizontal

$100

1/2 Page Vertical

$100

1/4 Page

$65

Business Card

$35

For more information, contact Niki Tudge Niki@PetProfessionalGuild.com 41-DOG-TRAIN ((413-648-7246) 27

Product Review — Tagg Pet Tracker

By Angelica Steinker The Tagg pet tracker is a fun and useful device. Tagg is a GPS device that attaches to your dogs collar. Tagg's original feature is to locate pets who have strayed from their home base.

I'm sure many people would find the tracking feature useful. Tagg sends you a text or email to enabled phones to let you know your dog has left the base area. It also has smart phone applications for iPhone and Android. It can track and send locations every three minutes so you can follow your dog. It has a phone application, so you can get information updates as you travel. You can get maps and directions that will take you to your pets location.

The tracking application is fun to use. I wandered around walking my dogs and following their path on several afternoons. It's cool to get updates and find the information is accurate. If your dog is an escape artist, you will love this product. Tagg is lightweight and water resistant. (My dog has tested that feature!)

Tagg Pet Tracker Features: light (1.16 oz), water-resistant, lithiumion battery Size: Measures 3.18" long, 1.49" wide , and .77" tall, it attaches to any sized dog collar.

Colors: grey/white, with accessories available to customize the look.

MSRP: $99.95 (plus $89.95 to add a pet) plus $7.99 monthly subscription.

Manufacturer: Snaptracs, Inc., a Qualcomm company

Another feature is the activity tracker. You can leave the tracker on your pet all day and get a report to let you know how much and when your dog is on the move. This totally fascinates me. You can get a daily activity report, a 30-day report and a 90-day report.

Battery life is reported to be about 30 days.

Veterinarians should like the helpful information Tagg can provide. Tagg can help with maintaining a healthy weight by charting a dog’s level of activity, or even understanding behavior problem by showing when the dog is moving about and perhaps anxious or frightened as is common with separation anxiety. It can monitor a dogs recovery from surgery, too.

Tagg's customer service is excellent. Due to its design, I had concerns about the tracker possibly getting caught on fences, crates or underbrush. They sent me a neoprene sleeve that solves that problem. Any question I've asked has gotten a response within an hour!

The product kit (hardware) itself costs $98 from Amazon, with an additional $7.99 monthly service fee (the first three months are free) to use it. What comes with the service charge is email, text message notifications. However, once the device is activated, if you decide to cancel the monthly service, you apparently cannot reactivate it at a later time—you would have to buy another unit. So know going into it that you cannot use it when you go on vacation, then cancel the subscription, and reactivate it when you need it again.

The Pet Tagg Tracker is a fun and useful tool. It's easy to use and seems to be a well-made device. I think with the addition of the activity tracker, dog owners as well as trainer will enjoy using Tagg.



The Tagg collar is lightweight and water resistant.

Angelica Steinker is the president and founder of Courteous Canine. She is certified by the Association of Animal Behavior Professionals, and she serves on the Advisory Board and instructs at the Companion Animal Sciences Institute. Angelica is also certified as Dog Behavior Consultant through the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. She has her CAP2 through Kay Laurence’s Learning About Dogs. Angelica is a soughtafter public speaker who has presented at conferences across the country including the famous Camp Gone to the Dogs in Vermont, the Association of Pet Dog Trainers Annual Conference, BARK Agility Camp, and Karen Pryor’s Clicker Expo. Angelica has a Master’s degree in Education, which has served as the foundation for her continued certifications in dog training and her extensive understanding of dog behavior and operant and classical conditioning, the science of how animals and people learn.

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Product Review — Nina Ottosson Dog Dizzy

By Leslie Clifton As boredom frequently compounds behavior issues, we recently (or should I say our lab trio and guest boarders) conducted a test drive of the Nina Ottosson Dog Dizzy. As the latter endured some fairly rigorous testing conditions, the Dizzy takes its place amongst our growing selection of interactive toys. We love that the durable Dog Dizzy is non-toxic recyclable plastic.

Nina Ottosson Dog Dizzy Features: non-toxic recyclable plastic Colors: Black/yellow

Size: 5 X 5 X 4 inches, 1 lb.

The primary testers were a puppy-mill rescue American lab MSRP: $24.95 named Doobie. He put the Dizzy through the wringer and then some! Doob, very catlike in his play, delighted in grabbing the Made in Sweden Dizzy and flinging it across the room — this from a puppy mill rescue who originally had no play behaviors. Initially, I had trouble unscrewing the toy for ease of filling. However, after a boarding pit mix did indeed manage to unscrew and damage a Kong Wobbler, I see the advantages! There is no unscrewing this tough ball.

The hole is large enough in diameter for ease of filling. Because the bottom is weighted, the Dizzy lives up to its name and always returns to an upright position. You can imagine the wobbling would appeal to the herding breeds in particular. I found this to be accurate with a client’s border collie who had a field day. It presents enough of a challenge, yet is not overly difficult.

Dogs not accustomed to a treat toy may require a gradual introduction. Aside from the flinging, (think dog proof room) no aberrant or determined chewing on the Dizzy has been observed. As always, food toys should be used only with supervision.

To see video of the toy in action: Dog Dizzy Youtube You can also visit the website for all the latest products, including an interactive cat toy. Dog Dizzy Advantages:  Pet safe recycled plastic.  Highly durable.  Rolling action inspires novel and creative play.  Appropriate outlet for seeking and foraging.  Great for herding breeds.  Inspires humans to laugh delightedly at doggy fun.  Reasonably priced.  Good size for use by wide range of dog breeds.  No spare parts to keep track of.  Can be used over and over and over.  Encourage independent and interactive play.  Does not come apart!

Leslie McGavin Clifton, PMCT, CPDT-KA is the owner of Look What I Can Do dog training and Look What I Can Do Pet Supplies in Earleville, MD.

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The Pet Professional Guild stands alone as the only single point of access to a variety of information and tools provided by pet care professionals who adhere to a strict code of conduct.

The Pet Professional Guild affiliates & members offer a selection of force-free, learning theory-based dog training services and professional pet-sitting and dog-walking services.

Whether you’re a dog owner looking to solve a specific behavioral problem, a dog lover simply wanting to gain more control and clarity in your relationship with your dog, or a family burdened by the question of how to take care of your pets while you’re away from home, the Guild Members can help you.

Barks from The Guild

is the official Pet Professional Guild quarterly publication. The publication is circulated in March, June, September & December. © 2012 PPG. This journal may be printed once by the received, for personal use only and may not otherwise be copied or transmitted in any manner in part or in full without permission from the Managing Editor. Quotes of fewer than 200 words are allowed as long as the source is properly cited.

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