Petite Properties Magazine Issue 3 Digital

The projects in this magazine are not suitable for children under 14.

Petite Properties Magazine is published by LUMO Publishing.

Branding & Content © PETITE PROPERTIES LTD ® 2025 ©LUMO PUBLISHING 2025 The name PETITE PROPERTIES is a registered trade mark of Petite Properties LTD LUMO Publishing is division of Petite Properties LTD® LUMO Publishing: The Old Methodist Church, High Street, Metheringham, Lincolnshire. LN4 3EA

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“Lights, camera(phone)....SMOKE!”

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Welcome to issue 3

welcome!

Magazine Team

Iona Barker (NEW Team Member!)

Steven Bearpark Bob (& Philip Thompson) Ann Evans & Rob Tysall Bekki Fileccia (NEW Team Member!)

Pa y Lindsey Jennifer Maddox

Contributors Primo Models

Shelly Pietrzak Kate Pinsent Mike Kelm Diane DeGan Roz Maclean Ken Bonham Christopher Burns Sue Cambridge Esther Horner John Wood Sylvia Warner Barbara Foard Bri a Harms Members of the Huddersfield Dolls House & Miniatures Club And finally... The wonderful members of the Pe te Proper es’ Modelling Community (on Facebook) This magazine would not be possible without the support of our wonderful magazine team & contributors...

Thank you for your con nued support of this fledgling publica on!

Contact Us *

ppmag@pe teproper esltd.com

ü

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Dear Reader,

Bea at Bush Cottage...

One thing that stands out in my memory of being a child, is how slowly time passes. The school holidays felt as long as half a life time. Unfortunately, as an adult, it seems that time moves at an altogether speedier pace! As a consequence, Issue 2 may feel like a recent memory, but it is already time to once again welcome you to a brand new edition of the Petite Properties Magazine… This much anticipated new issue marks that we are now three quarters of the way through our first year of publications. However, very soon Mo and I will have to sit down together and have an official conversation to discuss the future of this fledging magazine.

From the beginning, we planned to ‘see how it went’ before we looked to the future. In the meantime, the response this unique magazine has received so far is overwhelmingly more positive and passionate than we could have ever dared to hope for. But nevertheless, we need to fully assess our progress and work out if this new PP magazine is here to stay…?

So, if you would like to have your say on the future of this publication, or share your thoughts, ideas and suggestions for its future – do get in touch, as Mo and I would really like to hear from you!

But before we get too preoccupied with the future, let’s focus on the present and this exciting brand new magazine. Issue 3 is yet again filled to the brim with an unrivalled 100 pages of top quality small scale content.

(So much so, that we had to leave out content that we were unable to squeeze in!).

We are also delighted to announce that our PP Magazine Team is yet again expanding and we’re excited to welcome the super talented Bekki Fileccia into the fold. Bekki is an incredibly inventive and creative small scale miniaturist and she will be sharing her unique little ‘makes’, which bring her fabulous quarter scale dollhouses to life! (Page 66) Also joining us is mental health guru and keen miniaturist; Iona Barker, who will be exploring why our hobbies are so good for our well-being! (Page 80) This brand new issue has been a true labour of love to put together and although it did take slightly longer to get over the finish line than anticipated, it is at last time to go grab a cuppa, find a comfy chair and immerse yourself in the wonderful world of miniatures – it’s a truly magical (and mentally healthy) place be!

Bea Broadwood PETITE PROPERTIES LTD

f

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PPMC www.facebook.com/groups/pe teproper es

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PETITE PROPERTIES | 1

contents

Contents

91

regulars

features

Bookshelf 22 The Our quarterly celebration of

53 68 91 95

handy reference books Point of Discussion Love it or hate it, Bea explores the impact that AI is having on the miniature world Creative Spaces Esther Horner let’s us take a peek inside her enviable ‘She-Shed’ Join The Club Meet the members of Huddersfield Dollshouse & Miniatures Club Just For Fun She is certainly the unsung hero of PP and in this issue, Minion Mo finally steps out of the shadows and takes centre stage!

Models 4 Primo Makers of stunningly realistic

Interiors 13 Inspirational Shelly Pietrzak takes us on a

7

38

18 24 56

59

59

inspiration

73

trees; ideal for any diorama, in any smaller scale!

COVER STORY: Lost In The Woods The inspiration behind PP’s latest quarter scale woodland scene Keeping It In The Family Talented artisan Kate Pinsent, shares her historical and quirky tiny dolls Loch Doon Newly retired Mike Kelm, shares his huge half scale masterpiece!

For The Love Of Barns Ann Evans catches up with Ken Bonham to find out more about his passion for rural architecture The Mirthful Miniaturist: The Body Snatcher Talented miniaturist Christopher Burns shares stunning quarter scale diorama Micro Magic: Tiny Miniatures With A Huge Following We take a closer look at this ever popular tiny scale

40

48

63

76 Spotlight on:

83

83

tour of her 1:48th Victorian mansion Miniaturist of the Moment We celebrate PPMC member Diane DeGan’s stunning smaller scale creations Inside & Out We’ve seen inside, now we are taking a peek outside of Roz Maclean’s nostalgic quarter scale cottage.

Spectacular Vernacular: The Old Post Office This time Bea explores an achingly ancient and inspirational Cornish hall house Kit Bash Corner: A Home In Miniature Sue Cambridge recreates her beautiful home in both 1:48 and 1:144 scale The Abandoned House John Wood shares his deliberately dilapidated quarter scale diorama

Robin’s Nest One kit, transformed by three miniaturists; equals three very different dolls houses

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contents

66

4

88

help & advice

projects Wild Woods 10 The A woodland diorama: 1:48 Bea explains how she created her quarter scale woodland display base, using trees by Primo Models

30

66

71 78

A Book Box: In 1:24 (can be adapted) In this second instalment, Bea shows how to create a faux leather book cover for our book box A Shower Cubicle: 1:24 & 1:48 project Bekki Fileccia shares her very first project for this magazine and that’s just what every bathroom needs!

Wallpaper Printis: 1:48, 1:24 & 1:144 1940s inspired English Ivy wallpaper by Patty Lindsey Funky foam cladding: 1:48 project Bea shares her instant fix for simple, yet effective wood cladding Make The Bed: 1:24 & 1:48 project Create realistic bedding without material!

To Basics: 28 Back Bea takes a closer look at

34

43

80

98

paint brushes & applicators Light Up Lighting expert Jennifer Maddox continues her exclusive series on illuminating smaller scale miniatures Miniature Maestro Our super talented regular contributor, Steven Bearpark is back with another instalment of his Raven’s Perch build Minis & Mental Health With our mental health becoming more important than ever, Iona Barker explains why our hobbies are so good for us Ask Bob In this issue Bob takes a well earned break from answering readers questions, whilst work on his new media compound gets underway!

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40

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PRIMO MODELS

PRIMO

ModelS

I first spotted Primo Model’s stand when we were show neighbours at the Railex Show at Stoke Mandeville Stadium, back in 2023. Being the stand ‘next door’ meant that I was able to have a really good look at Michael’s stunning trees. As you will read on page 7 I was particularly drawn to the forest larch and spruces and as soon as I saw them, I knew that I just had to use them in a future diorama… and as you can see on the front cover of this magazine; I did!

Although Michael’s main business focus is of course the model railway market, his wide selection of stunningly realistic trees, shrubs and grasses are also perfect for 1:48 and 1:144 miniature scenes too! With one foot in both the model railway world AND the dolls house world, I am really keen to highlight the common ground where these two hobbies overlap and Michael’s stunningly realistic trees are just one element of the railway world that I feel really must be shared!

I

started modelling when I was around twelve. I immediately began with railroads, with the first train sets placed on the floor. Gradually I moved toward more established railway layouts; first stationary with as many tracks I could fit and then modular, focusing on realism.

My business, Primo Models, specializes in making realistic model scenery products, focusing mainly on trees.

Currently, our range consists of 67 different tree types and sizes, six different colours of bushes and 24 different grass clumps and flowers.

Michael

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PRIMO MODELS All of the deciduous trees are made from twisted Researching trees is extremely easy; you just go out wires and covered with different scatters from for a walk or look around as you drive the car. The various manufacturers, including self-made ones. Cotricky part is finding their main characteristics and nifers are made with wooden sticks as a trunk and trying to include them in the model. In nature, the added wires to create branches. The only exception is same tree type can look completely different a pine tree, where I used thick wire for the trunk so depending on where it grows, etc. However, my you can bend it, as pine boxed trees have to be trees love to grow in more or less the same, Scale information… weird shapes! so the customer is not dissatisfied that the H0 Scale is 1:87 or 3.5mm to 1 foot I went to Model Rail tree looks utterly differScotland back in 2018 N Scale is 1:148 or 2mm to 1 foot ent from the and noticed a gap in previous one they have the market for model (The latter is very close to the smallest bought… trees. I felt it was not common DH Micro scale – 1:144) So consistency in my right to see some sutree production is key! perb layouts with excelFinding the balance between realism and "good looklent details, ing for the eye" is always hard. weathering, and realism being downgraded because of plastic, generic, and unrealistic trees. After the show, I started to plan the company and finally Primo Models opened it in 2019.

“

Finding the balance between realism and ‘good looking for I perthe eye’ is always hard.

Michael.

”

sonally like to model in H0 scale as it suits me best, as I mainly collect US trains. I also find that this scale is the best balanced between the size that it takes, combined with the details that you can include on one of your layouts. I love to watch N-scale layouts (1:148), as you can fit plenty of tracks and trains on them. However, I find working with such a small scale much more challenging.

Above: Primo Models’ Exhibition Stand Below right & Left - landscaping by Michael

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Landscape by Michael Here at Primo Models, we work constantly on improving our existing ranges of trees and developing new ones. We have just launched autumn versions of our deciduous trees. Yew trees and weeping willows are next in line and beyond that I have plenty more ideas. Unfortunately, everything takes much longer than I wish it would.

All of my inspiration comes straight from nature and the model railway shows, where I can notice potential improvements that could make some good things even better. When I am exhibiting at model shows, our birch trees seem to get the most praise from visitors.

Attending Model Railway exhibitions is always a bit stressful and requires a lot of preparation. (Having to bring two big dogs with you does not make it any easier.) Sometimes, I wish I could just stay at home.

However, every time I get to the show, thanks to the great atmosphere and friendly people, all of the stress and hardship dissipate and are replaced by positive energy and a lot of motivation to move forward. That makes me always go home with a smile and look forward to the next show!

In the future, I plan to expand our range to include more raw materials like different scatters, static grasses, tools, and other scenery-related products.

Eventually, I would love to see Primo Models as a one -stop scenery shop where you can get anything and everything you need to create realistic scenery on your layout.

Michael

If you are interested in finding out more about Michael’s wonderful work, why not follow him on social media, where you can also find ‘How to’ videos that he has made…

Business name: Primo Models Website: www.primomodels.co.uk Telephone No: 01794 323 158 Facebook: primomodelsuk Instagram: primomodelsin

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lost

in the

woods

Cover story I am often asked by customers where my ideas come from. The simple and concise answer is, “they come from what I see.”

Regular readers of my old column in Dolls House & Miniature Scene Magazine will already know that I carry my sketch pad, note book and camera EVERYWHERE I go… as you never know just when (& where) inspiration will strike!

Sometimes I see a full scale house or scene which gives me an element of an idea, or from time to time, the spark of inspiration can come from a book or a film. Once an idea has settled, the design process starts from there… but for my latest quarter scale creation, my normal design process was literally turned on its head.

Which comes first, the house or the base?

I

n this case (and for the first time ever), my starting point of inspiration came from an element of miniature scenery; a humble forest spruce to be very exact… Through our work in the model railway world, Tony, Mo and I attend a number of large modelling exhibitions throughout the year. One of the perks of attending these busy shows is that I get to wander around these big events before the crowds arrive and the doors officially open.

At a model railway show a couple of years ago, I spotted a fellow exhibitor who I hadn’t seen before and his work blew me away. Primo Models create their own range of stunningly realistic miniature trees and as soon as I saw them I knew I just HAD to use them! What particularly caught my eye, was the

realistic accuracy of their forest trees. The dead thin growth at the bottom of the trees reminded me of a wood we used to walk in as a family, when our girls were both little. On the walk we used to day dream that we’d love to live in a wood, in a little cabin tucked away from the world.

Obviously this was just a fun family fantasy, but the imagined imagery always stayed with me. The memory of our family walks and daydreams still make me smile.

Fast forward to earlier this year when over a family dinner we began to reminisce about our family walks in the wood, then bingo! Finally a plan of how to use my collection of Primo Model’s trees, started to materialise.

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Cover story A cabin in the woods...

Sadly, in the harsh light of the real world, living in a hidden cabin deep in the woods has not been a dream that Tony and I have been able to actualise here in rural Lincolnshire! However, as we all know, in the miniature world you can manifest literally whatever your imagination can dream up; albeit as a scaled down version of course. So, a few rough sketches later and it was surprising how quickly an initial design for a tiny cabin in the woods came together.

“

For the first time ever, I worked on the base first and the cabin was designed to fit amongst the trees and not the other way around.

Bea.

”

The cabin has a removable back elevation & removable roof...

The traditional interior of the cabin...

The real woods, were daydreams become inspiration...

Despite being focused on and driven by my urge to create a wooded base to showcase my Primo Model trees, I was also excited to have the opportunity to bring our family’s fantasy cabin to life too. Drawing heavily from my love of Johanna Spyri’s ‘Heidi’ (and the 1978 TV adaptation of it) I included a central open fire with a raised heath.

Overlooking the double height main room, is an all-important mezzanine space and outside a front porch overlooks the surrounding forest.

When dressing the porch I couldn’t resist adding a couple of Mo’s 3D printed pumpkins. However, as I wanted to add a nano light to the interior of each pumpkin, I carefully made tiny holes in the bottom using a fine pointed file. When lit, the pumpkins now glow and add to the autumnal atmosphere that I was attempting to recreate in miniature.

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Cover story The Lost Cabin in 1:48 (Undecorated)

Can’t see the woods for the trees...

The trees I used for this master model, were not the only influence that the model railway world had on this new quarter scale diorama. With the cabin featuring a large stone chimney, it also provided the perfect opportunity to include another key feature that I had been itching to incorporate somewhere in my creations: a smoking chimney!

It took a little bit of time and experimentation to get the chimney to smoke as realistically as possible, but the final effect was the perfect finishing touch!

Once again, I had seen a number of actual (miniature) ‘smoking’ chimneys and model engines at model railway events. Railway modellers utilise a variety of different techniques to create realistic smoke effects from water vapour and oil… rest assured this is a topic we will be returning to and exploring further in a future issue. But in the meantime, the Lost Cabin has also been designed to include a complete working (hollow) chimney; where a suitable ‘smoke’ effect feature could be included if desired.

Our little lost cabin, may have started life as just a fond family daydream, but with the help of Primo Model’s trees, the vision was finally able to take shape and come to life!

Lit pumpkins...

Pumpkins on the porch

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Wild wood base project - 1:48

the WILD WOODS Diorama project Quarter Scale Once again, regular readers and customers will know that miniature landscaping is probably my favourite element of my job and if you haven’t already had a go, be warned… it is totally ADDICTIVE! Creating miniature landscaped bases for my quarter scale houses has been something that I have been doing for the last decade and I have loved making every single one! However, at this point I do feel obliged to add that it can be a VERY messy process and as Minion Mo shares the Chapel Room where I work, she banished me to the church’s kitchen when I was working on this woodland base!

Into the woods…

The base that I have designed for our Lost Cabin is a very simple one. Its main aim is simply to provide a suitable structure on which the little cabin can be displayed and also encompass a concealed central area; where either lighting or chimney smoking apparatus can be hidden.

The fundamental concept behind all our base structures is that they can be brought to life however and with whatever you choose.

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Primo model trees

materials

Larch Tree (tall trunk) 26-28cm

1 block of florist’s oasis Interior decorators filler (in powdered form) PVA Adhesive Dark brown eye shadow* (*Optional) Landscaping materials: See page 12

Larch Tree (tall trunk) 20-22cm Larch Tree (dry) 20-22cm x2

Larch Tree (dry) 14-16cm Spruce Tree (tall trunk) 26-28cm Spruce Tree (tall trunk) 9-11cm Forest Spruce 14-16cm Forest Spruce Tree 20-22cm x2

Paint

Wood Stove* (Black) Dirty Stone Mortar* (Cement colour) *Petite Properties Paint

tools Butter knife Plastic cup Assorted paint brushes Cool melt glue gun (Cool melt glue sticks) Black Sharpie Pen

Wild wood base project - 1:48 you are using a PP base kit or a base structure that you have 1 Whether created yourself: it is first important to fill all of the void areas.

There are several ways that you can do this, from scrunched newspaper to balls of tin foil. But for this base I cut sections of florist’s oasis and pushed the pieces into the void areas. Where required I also used a glue gun to fix them into position. Once all the void areas between the two levels of the base had been filled, paint the entire surface of the base with two coats of PVA adhesive and leave to dry: ideally overnight.

this point it is helpful to work out where you want to position your 2 Attrees.

I used a black Sharpie pen to draw around the bases of my trees, so that I knew where NOT to apply the filler paste during the next step. To create the structure and surface texture on the base I used interior decorator’s filler. This inexpensive and readily available product can be easily found in DIY stores and online too. I use a powdered filler and mixed it with a little cold water: just enough to make a stiff paste. I applied the filler paste to the base, just like you would apply butter icing onto a cake. However, I deliberately applied the paste unevenly and left the texture on the surface of the filler. Leave to dry, once again ideally overnight

the 3 Paint entire surface of

used a glue gun to stick the trees and 4 Ibushes into position on the base.

the base black.

I applied two coats of paint, allowing the paint to dry completely before reapplying the next coat.

a bristle brush (see page 28) I ‘dry brushed’ the 5 Using surface of the base with a tiny amount of Dirty Stone Mortar Paint. Then left it to dry. Working in sections, I liberally applied PVA adhesive. Whilst the adhesive was still wet, I sprinkled over a variety of landscaping scatters. I did not totally cover the whole of the base in scatter, instead I allowed areas of the hardened filler to remain exposed to create stone outcrops. I weathered these exposed areas with dark brown eye shadow.

Top tip: When choosing the landscaping materials that you want to use, think about what time of year you want to recreate in miniature. I wanted a feel of late October, so picked an autumnal palette of colours... www.petite-properties.com

PETITE PROPERTIES | 11

Wild wood base project - 1:48 This is a selection of PP landscaping scatters that I applied onto my

base, but of course you can use whatever you have already to Landscaping materials woodland hand!

Long Dry Grass

Extra Fine Stone Chippings

Sand

Dry Leaves

All Season & Evergreen Shrub Foliage

Green Scatter

Earth Scatter

Stone Scatter

6 Part way through covering your base with landscaping, there comes a point that you need to fit your cabin into position. This will enable you to then continue to place landscaping around the edges of your cabin so that foliage appears to have grown over the dwelling, thus blending it into the diorama itself.

Finally, position your cabin onto the base...

Then step back & enjoy!

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Rear View...

Inspirational INTERIORS Shelly pietrzak

Victorian architecture, with all its ornamentation and over-the-top decorative details, is my passion. And the Second Empire style of Raven's Perch does not disappoint. It contains everything I love in an old house: mansard roof, iron cresting, a huge porch, dormer windows, and a TOWER! I knew from the moment I saw Raven's Perch, that I was going to make a Victorian masterpiece out of it and that I had to make the interior match all the wonderfully gothic exterior elements... www.petite-properties.com

PETITE PROPERTIES | 13

Inspirational interiors

R

esearch is always very important to me, as I like my houses to be as historically accurate as possible. I never start a project until I am sure that I have done all the research I need to do. I didn't have to do much research for this one though since I've been reading books, both fiction and non-fiction, containing examples of Victorian interiors and exteriors for most of my life. I've also visited and photographed several houses from the Victorian era that are now museums, so I was able to use those for reference as well. I basically just dove right in to finding the right wallpaper, furniture and decor to match my vision.

Shelly pietrzak

and doesn't have the money or physical ability to keep up the house. His days are spent just sitting in front of the fire or playing his beloved piano. So I wanted the house to look run down and neglected, but not scary. I did add some personal elements to the decor which are important to me and just plain cool. There are portraits on the sitting room wall of two sets of my great-great grandparents. And between them is a portrait of my great-great-greatgreat grandmother who was born in 1794 and lived to be almost 100 years old! Since the house is set in the Victorian era, I thought these were rather fitting to the scene.

The interior of my Raven's Perch is not based on any real life setting. However, it does have a sort of story that goes with it. In my mind, it's the once grand home of an elderly gentleman who was a musician in his youth. He has no remaining family

Family portraits hang on the wall...

Shelly has created an atmospheric interior with her clever use of lighting...

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“

My interiors are always meticulously planned out.

Nothing is glued until I am sure of exactly where it's going.

Shelly.

”

My interiors are always meticulously planned out. Nothing is glued until I am sure of exactly where it's going. Sometimes, entire days are spent moving interior elements around or just sitting (or lying in bed at 2am) and thinking about where to place things. For example, I added stairs to this house and I literally spent weeks trying to figure out where they would look best and take up the least amount of space.

Raven's Perch was definitely my most difficult lighting project. It can be difficult to plan lighting for a two story house, let alone a four story one! Getting a light up to that little tower room was a challenge for sure! Luckily this house has a fireplace that runs up three floors and that was very convenient for hiding the wires for the ceiling lights in the big rooms. The wires for the lamps run into tiny holes drilled into the furniture on which they sit and then go under the floorboards and down the fireplaces. For the tower rooms, I ran the wires up the side of the house and covered them with siding and roof tiles. The process of lighting a house generally isn't difficult. It's the planning of where to place the lights and where to

Above: The kitchen features a large Victorian stove and an exposed brick wall. www.petite-properties.com

PETITE PROPERTIES | 15

Inspirational interiors hide the wires that can be very time consuming and often, frustrating. I've definitely pulled out some hairs over it!

A vision becomes reality!

I have completed fifteen Petite Properties’ houses now and almost every time, the build has not gone entirely to plan. There are always things that just don't end up looking like I wanted them to, or are just impossible to make work. Not with Raven's Perch though. I can honestly say that I had a vision for this one and the outcome exactly matched, and even exceeded, my vision. I am especially pleased with the ground floor dining room and sitting area. To me, it is the epitome of how a gothic Victorian interior should look. I'm also very happy with the grungy, neglected look of the bathroom, the gigantic Victorian stove and exposed brick wall in the kitchen, and I thought it was particularly fun to search out items for and decorate the little attic room.

I am drawn to true Victorian style interior decorating. I love the look of the bold and dark wall colors that the Victorians were fond of, and also the heavily patterned wallpaper of the era. I adore fancy tile floors and bathrooms with simple subway tiles on the walls... and of course all the natural wood! Dark walnut and mahogany wood furniture and flooring is

Shelly’s grungy bathroom really suits the interior style she’s created throughout her Raven’s Perch...

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my favorite element of the Victorian interior style and I have used up many, many stain pens replicating this style in Raven's Perch and several of my other houses. I just can't get enough of it!

When it comes to creating interiors in a scale as small as 1:48, I would strongly advise working from the ground up and making a list and a detailed sketch of what you want to accomplish. If you are going to light a house, everything must be done in an exact order or you will not be able to hide wires. Figure out furniture placement first, and then think about where you would like to place each light and how you will hide the wire. Also, check to make sure your light actually works before you install it and start building and gluing things or even complete your entire project. Sometimes a bulb can be faulty, or, due to the small size, sometimes you can accidentally damage one just by handling it or threading it through a hole (ask me how I know this).

The attic room is strewn with items that Shelly took time to find and collect...

Shelly’s Top Tips...

I do not recommend gluing anything at all, even walls, until you are absolutely sure where everything will go. And if you are wallpapering, use your walls as templates to trace on to the wallpaper.

Cut the pieces out and adjust them accordingly.

Do not try to measure out your papers after your walls are glued together (again, ask me how I know)!

The building of my Raven's Perch was a tremendously challenging, but satisfying experience. I love the finished project and display it proudly all year long on a high shelf where my cats and dogs can't destroy it! I often take it down, turn the lights on and just admire it in all its gothic Victorian glory!

Shelly

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PETITE PROPERTIES | 17

Kate pinsent

Keeping it in the family

Kate—needs intro A collection of 1:24th scale ‘Post War’ dolls by Kate

Jill & Kate

Kate PINSENT

I have had the honour of knowing Kate for more years than is probably polite to admit. But it was through her Mum; the amazingly talented Jill Bennett, that we first made a connection. Jill was an indomitably talented lady, able to turn her artistic hand to almost anything; from beautiful book illustrations, to of course creating the stunning 1:12th scale dolls which she was well known in the miniature world for. I think that creativity must certainly run in the family, as Kate too works within the magic world of miniatures. Gently following in her mother’s iconic footsteps, Kate creates her own beautiful dolls in all three of the most popular dolls house scales. Of course for this feature, we focus on her smaller scale work, which is collected and enjoyed by half and quarter scale fans all over the world.

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Kate pinsent

I

am a doll maker and work in three scales: 1:12, 1:24 and 1:48 and I work in most periods from Tudor to Modern. All of my dolls are posable, which is important to me, as I feel that it gives them more presence. I have pretty much grown up in the miniature world. My mum, Jill Bennett started making dolls when I was about 10 years old, and I would make little cats and dogs for her to earn pocket money.

When I left full time employment, I did a dressmaking and pattern cutting course and specialised in bespoke ladies’ tailoring. After the birth of my daughter, I found that dressmaking and two small children (with sticky fingers….) did not mix. Mum asked me to help her dress her dolls which was perfect as they were small and portable.

When my children were old enough and I had more time to myself, I started to develop my own dolls.

I began in 1:24, so as not to be in competition with Mum (not that that was really possible as her dolls were so unique). It was at a time when people were beginning to think about smaller scales. Joan and Jim from Trigger Pond encouraged me to go for it, and there was also a lovely range of houses in that scale at Petite Properties

‘Tudor males’ in half scale

Kate’s beautiful work room

At home, I have a little room which is crammed full of ‘stuff’, with my sewing machine permanently ready on the table. The bodies of my 1:24th scale dolls are cast for me in metal, with wire joints. I then ‘flesh them out’, paint, dress and wig them. My 1:48th figures are made from scratch with twisted wire and Fimo clay.

I particularly love the Tudor era, as there are so many great characters; from the highest, to the right down and dirty. I also enjoy the post war period and find that these two styles work really well in the smaller scales. However, it’s hard to pick one particular figure that is my favourite. But for the challenge and fun of it, I would say a couple of 1:24th Ugly Sisters from the ballet of Cinderella and 1:48th Batman & Robin would all have to get my vote!

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PETITE PROPERTIES | 19

Kate pinsent

Tudor Market Place - 1:24

Like many creative people, some days I just don’t want to get started and the idea of working on a doll does not excite me. But once I get going, I find I get lost in the creative process and time flies by. It can often take some time to plan a doll and get the right fabrics together. It’s strange, but often I will approach a character with an idea in my head, but when I get the bits together, the doll has other ideas!

Sometimes I have my Eureka moments in the middle of the night, which is not very helpful as I have to get up and start working through the idea. My biggest one was when I first created my 1:48th scale figures.

People had been asking me for them and I had resisted; believing them to be impossibly small. Then one morning I had a thought and got up, found wire and air drying clay (luckily my daughter is also very crafty) and my 1:48th dolls were born!

I take inspiration from pictures and photographs, but also from my own life with the post war dolls – channelling my grandmother and great aunt. When researching a new doll, I have a shelf of costume reference books, as well as some books of paintings. Of course there is also the wealth of reference that can be readily found on the internet too. Once I have done my research and found the style I want, I dive straight in!

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“

I love the variety of my work, particularly as I have all three scales to work from.

It’s creative, but also satisfies another of my interests – history.

But most of all, I love that you can tell stories with the dolls.

Kate.

Tudor Ladies...

”

Kate pinsent

(1:48) Tiny Vikings about to go to a banquet...

It is always hard to say how long one of my dolls takes to make, as I do some things in batches – such as making figures, painting, stuffing for example.

The actual dressing and finishing is done individually and this can take anything from 1 – 3 days (not usually more, but there have been exceptions!)

However, I love to take on commissions as they are usually for things that I wouldn’t have thought to do myself and I do enjoy a challenge!

At the moment, I am restocking my 1:48th modern range of people, as I sold most of them at Miniatura last autumn. I also have a big commission of 1:24th scale World War 1 Soldiers, complete with guns, bayonets, packs and the odd sword. The details that have been requested are quite daunting and I hope to be able to share the whole process with you at a later date. But for now, I have just got three French dolls on my work desk; ready and waiting to go!

I really appreciate the work that goes in to making miniatures and am in awe of anyone who can create things with wood or metal. I don’t collect miniatures myself, although I do have a couple of lovely tiny cats that live on my piano and remind me of my old friends.

Over the years, I have occasionally bought props and accessories for the dolls that I create. I have a very lovely 1:24th scale deck chair from Jane Harrop which I used in a scene for the Kensington Dolls House Festival’s Perfections in Miniatures competition, along with Bea’s help and advice as to how to create the scene.

Times have changed and I now find that my biggest market at the moment is Etsy, but I also have my own website and attend Miniatura in both the Spring and Autumn and also Kensington Dolls House Festival; although this year I will only be at the Christmas one day show. Despite selling online I do like attending shows, as I love chatting to people and seeing the expression on visitors’ faces when they spot my tiny creations!

Kate Website: www.katepinsentdolls.com Facebook: Kate Pinsent Dolls Instagram: KatePinsentDolls Email kate@katepinsentdolls.com Telephone - 01225 722 685

Work in progress...

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PETITE PROPERTIES | 21

The book shelf

the

BOOK HELF

When my eldest daughter was little, her favourite Disney film was Beauty & The Beast... Not so much for the fairytale love story, but for the fact that Belle was given a library! Both of my girls are avid readers and as a family we enjoy being surrounded by books. Recently online, I read that it takes a collection of a 1000 books to constitute a library. My initial reaction was, “is that all?” as I think that I am personally well on the way to being able to claim library status for all of my architectural reference books alone... If only I could collect them all together and display them in the same place!

P

reviously in this column I have spoken of my (almost obsessive) love of National Trust book shops. But coming a close second in my affections, would have to be the good old high street charity shop!

I think that part of the thrill of visiting a charity book shop is that you simply never know what you will find. You also never know if you will find a reference book that you never knew you even needed... When that happens, it is pure joy!

A familiar sight around not only the UK, but the world too, these second hand shops can often be a treasure trove for unwanted books. Here in the UK, my personal favourite charity shop has to be an Oxfam Book Shop... I love them! I love the smell of the books, the hushed quiet and the anticipation of not knowing what you will find.

Last year on holiday, Tony and I were visiting Cleeve Abbey in Somerset; which is an English Heritage site. Where, I was over the moon to discover that they also had a small second hand book section.

After an in depth rummage (while Mr B sat in a comfy chair), I unexpectedly stumbled upon found a brilliant book on outdoor privies. Even the volunteer at the till had a chuckle when processing my purchases.

“I didn’t think we would sell that book, but yet... here you are!” she said with a smile.

On every visit, my goal is always the same; to find new architectural reference books for my (almost) library. However, aside from architecture, I also look for books on interiors, antiques, UK travel and full size railways too. It’s a bit of an eclectic mix of interests and which means that I pretty much work my way through all the shelves, except for the fiction! (That’s where Mr B heads)...

Over the years, I have found some very rare books and more recently I nearly hyperventilated with glee ,when I walked into my local Oxfam Book Shop to find that someone must have donated their entire collection of architecture books... Safe to say Mr B was sent back to the car for extra shopping bags, whilst I became giddy with excitement!

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So now, with the long days of summer still a way off, what better time of year is there to snuggle up with a book and make miniature plans? And if you can find some bargain titles in your local charity shop and support a good cause in the process; even better.

Happy book hunting and happy reading!

The book shelf Villages Buildings Of Britain

By Matthew Rice. (2003) Publisher: Little, Brown & Company

Rice’s Architectural Primer

By Matthew Rice. (2009) Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing PLC

Rice’s Church Primer

By Matthew Rice. (2013) Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing PLC

Synopsis: “An illustrated survey of vernacular buildings from all over Britain. It is not only a collection of architectural drawings, but also a guide for those people who would like to maintain or convert a country cottage in such a way that it continues to stand in harmony with its surroundings.”

World Of Books.

Synopsis: “A beautifully packaged, idiosyncratic introduction to British building styles, by the acclaimed illustrator and architectural enthusiast Matthew Rice.”

World Of Books.

Synopsis: “Rice's Church Primer by Matthew Rice is a book that explains the grammar and vocabulary of church architecture in the United Kingdom. The book starts by exploring the basic grammar of churches, including elevation, plan, fronts, vaults, and towers.”

This book was probably the title most recommended by members of the Petite Properties Modelling Community group on Facebook.

I myself have several well thumbed copies in my bookshelf. I particularly love the author’s watercolour illustration and the breadth of architecture the book includes.

If you are interested in British architecture and don’t already have this (inexpensive) title, I wholeheartedly recommend you purchase a copy.

Once again using his simple watercolour illustrations, Matthew Rice has collated a simple guide to explain the vocabulary and grammar of British buildings.

Recommended by Members of PPMC

Probably a lesser known title than his previous book on British architecture, but it is certainly just as inspiring and helpful.

So if, like me, you enjoy the individual elements featured on period buildings, this book is a fabulous and informative addition for your personal reference library.

Recommended by Bea

Slightly more niche than the two previous book recommendations

by Matthew Rice, but if you have an interest in ecclesiastical architecture, then this is definitely a title to add to your collection.

Following in the footsteps of his ‘Architectural Primer’ book, it explains and explores various internal and external structural elements and looks at the vernacular differences between British churches. I found it a valuable reference when designing PP’s St. Thomas’ Church.

Recommended by Bea

Do you have a favourite book that you have found helpful for your miniature projects, which you would like to recommend to readers?

Then why not get in touch with us, so that we can share it here!

We look forward to sharing your recommendations in future issues!

The Bookshelf - ppmag@petitepropertiesltd.com www.petite-properties.com

PETITE PROPERTIES | 23

Half scale 1:24

LOCH

Doon Mike kelm

I have had the honour of knowing Mike Kelm for many years. He is one half of the talented husband and wife duo behind Kastlekelm Miniatures, which are based in the UK. Mike is one of the most modest men I have ever met and behind his quiet exterior there is a wealth of creativity and talent.

As his long career working within the film industry now comes to an end and retirement beckons, Mike is thankfully far from ready to hang up his tools and bow out of the wonderful world of miniatures any time soon!

A life long journey through the miniature world

M

ike began working in the film industry in the late 80s. Initially training as a graphic designer, over the years since, he has worked on numerous big screen productions; from Indiana Jones, Phantom Menace to Miss Peregrine’s Home For Peculiar Children and lots more besides. Learning on the job, he expanded his skill set, working as a concept modeller and designing both sets and props for numerous blockbuster films.

For those of you who have visited ‘The Making Of Harry Potter – Warner Bros Studios’ you will have seen examples of the kind of work concept modellers like Mike create. They take a design idea and make it into 3D reality; albeit in miniature form. There are numerous white card models on display at Warner

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Mike & his castle at the Miniatura Show

Half scale 1:24

Below: A 1:24th scale concept model* of Diagon Alley at Warner Bros Studios (UK)

Loch doon As we all remember, lock down arrived and literally overnight the world stopped and inevitably the film world stopped too. With no day job to fill his time and confined to home, Mike seized the opportunity to make a start on a miniature idea that had been niggling at him for so long. With a home workshop and all the tools and materials he needed surrounding him, Mike set about bringing his preliminary Loch Doon sketches to life… *Not Mike’s work

Bros Studios (UK) which show the kind of design process which was Mike’s day job for so much of his career.

Mike’s transition from professional model maker to professional miniaturist, is for the most part, due to his talented wife Jenny Kelm and her deep love of the dollshouse hobby. With Jenny being a professional miniaturist herself, it was a natural progression for Mike to join her and apply the myriad skills which he has homed in his professional life into KastleKelm Miniatures, their business which they run together.

In 2008, Mike took his first steps into the dollshouse world, when he attended the autumn Miniatura show alongside his wife, Jenny. Over the years since, they have both become regular faces at the show, with the miniatures they create always evolving and their range expanding. Although 1:12th scale predominates in the handcrafted miniatures which they both make, the lure of the smaller scales are certainly starting to pull them in!

Fast forward to October 2023 and I first saw the materialisation of Mike’s imagination at the Miniatura show. Loch Doon is a majestic castle, which rises up from a rugged mound. Mike had created a true showstopper and throughout the Miniatura weekend, visitors jostled for position in front of the castle, eager to be able to peep inside and take it all in.

“

1:24 is the smallest scale that I like to work in, because of the level of detail that you can still achieve in it.

Mike.

”

Modelling in 1:24th scale, was something which Mike did regularly in his day job, behind the scenes in the film industry. A popular and versatile scale, 1:24 offers professional modellers like Mike the opportunity to incorporate a high level of detail into a concept model, yet the model remains small enough to be transported to and from full scale sets and filming locations throughout the development process. For a number of years an idea had been growing in Mike’s imagination; gradually taking shape and form and as a talented artist, Mike drew many sketches of his idea. But is wasn’t until the world wide events of 2020 that Mike was handed opportunity and luxury of time to work on his very special smaller scale project.

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Half scale 1:24 No matter how lifelike Loch Doon castle appears, the roots of its design lie in artwork of one of Mike’s favourite artist’s. The spidery, fantastical pen sketches of Ian Miller, sowed the original seed of an idea in Mike’s furtive imagination, then his natural creativity and professional talents transformed the concept into a 1:24th scale miniature reality.

‘Loch Doon’ is Mike’s clever Scottish play on words and comical nod to the opportunity in which the castle was created.

Small scale… but far from small…

The castle may have been constructed in a small scale, but it certainly isn’t small! Just like the model of Hogworts Castle that can be seen at HP World, Mike’s castle is also built in 1:24th scale.

However, one clever consideration Mike had at the design stage, was the final overall size of his castle.

Drawing on his experience from his professional life,

Castle size: 49 inches tall x 32 inches wide x 19 inches deep. he made sure that the finished castle would easily be able to fit through doorways. A simple point, but a very important one! The weight of the finished model was also something which Mike gave a lot of thought to during the planning stages and his aim to keep the castle as light as possible, naturally dictated the choice of construction material that he selected and used.

Grand designs...

Like every full scale castle, Loch Doon was built from the ground up! The main structure was made from foam core board combined with everyday modelling materials such as balsa wood were used to bring the model slowly to life. Mike’s ideas grew and developed organically and the luxury of time during prolonged ‘lock downs’ enabled him to problem solve and design the castle as the build progressed, rather than working to a fixed drawing or plan.

“Loch Doon is a half scale master class in miniature modelling and a model building as close to perfection as you are ever likely to get!”

Bea.

Although Lock Doon’s design is rooted in the fantasy world, Mike did follow the architectural golden rule book when it came to design details such as the classical proportions of the windows and the realistic arches in the great hall; Mike’s model reflects the real world in every tiny detail.

Incorporating all important viewpoints into the castle and dungeon were at times problematic and how to portray certain features proved tricky. But despite these (head scratching) difficulties Mike managed to masterfully create the all important element of

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Half scale 1:24 illusion, of intriguing vistas and making us believe that there is more to the castle than meets the eye!

Despite Mike’s vast experience and skill level, inevitably there is always something that doesn’t quite go to plan and for the castle of Loch Doon, it was the wiring that proved to be a bit of a headache.

But after a few setbacks the lighting gremlins were finally banished. Although as far wiring is concerned, Mike has asked me to officially put him down as ‘not a fan!’

Moving swiftly on…

With Mike’s experience and model making talent, it is certainly no surprise the castle turned out as he expected it to. Despite it taking over 600 working hours (or 2 years) to complete, Mike is certainly not one to rest on his laurels and he admits there are things that he would still like to add to Loch Doon.

Despite being an exhibition piece, Loch Doon now takes pride of place in Mike and Jenny’s summer house… but it isn’t the only castle that Mike has made. Since finishing (well almost) his lock down project, Mike has also made a smaller 1:24 castle and is not adverse to accepting future commissions to build yet more. But with his career in the film industry now firmly behind him, Mike is once again keen to make the most of the opportunity of time that has now been afforded him. Time when he no longer has to work to a dictated brief and develop other people’s ideas. Now newly retired, Mike is free to explore his own ideas and I for one can’t wait to find out just where his incredible talent, design skills and imagination will take him!

The castle’s lighting was Mike’s nemesis!

“I still look at it and think I should add more small details, maybe some dormer windows in the roof for a bit of extra interest.” Mike.

You can find Mike’s work at Miniatura & here: Etsy UK: KastleKelmMiniatures

Back to basics

back to

basics

Paint BRUSHES & applicators

In the last issue, we took a closer look at the different types of inexpensive paint that can be used when modelling in the smaller scales. From there, we now move on to the actual application of paint and explore the simple tools I always use, when creating my miniature models.

Now that we are three issues into this fledgling magazine, I hope that you are beginning to realise that you really don’t need to use expensive products or complicated tools to create realistic and effective smaller scale miniatures... far from it! So when I was first thinking about writing this article, it struck me that the best approach to it would be to simply list the paint applicators that I use (almost) every day. None of which are particularly refined or indeed special… in fact many of the brushes I use are actually pretty basic and very simple.

Bristle brushes Unrefined and unapologetically chunky! These simple rustic brushes are so versatile and useful and for me they are a real workhorse of the brush world. They are especially useful for dry brushing, or base coating landscaped bases or house exteriors; when generous amounts of paint or adhesive need to be applied. The general rule of thumb is the larger the surface you are applying paint to, the larger the brush you need to use (and vice versa).

Flat bristle brush Another very simple, inexpensive brush, which can be found readily online or in the children’s section of craft / art shops. A flat bristle brush is my ‘go to’ style of brush to use when I am using a dry brush technique to apply the paint streaks to tiled roofs or vertical surfaces etc.

Nylon bristle brush This is an incredibly underrated type of brush and it is also Minion Mo’s favourite too. Because it is ‘nylon’ people often think it is inferior in quality; it isn’t! Using this kind of chunky (dense) nylon brush is a dream, as it leaves almost no brush marks and applies the paint readily and evenly.

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Back to basics Water colour brushes Available in an almost infinite variety of shapes and sizes, these brushes are ideal for painting fine details and of course perfect for applying paint washes too. I always keep a wide selection, in a range of sizes close at hand on my workbench.

Nail art brushes With the rise in popularity of 3D miniatures, these super fine brushes are ideal for tackling the tiniest of details. They do need a little bit of extra care though, as you must ensure that when you are not using them that the paint doesn’t dry out on the brush. Plus, as the brushes bristle are so fine, extra care is needed when washing, drying and storing them.

Sponge dabbers Any piece of clean sponge can be used to sponge paint. In the past I used everything from bath to car wash sponges. In recent years, I now use paint dabbers as these are rounded at the edges and so they don’t accidently leave an edge line when sponge painting a surface. Dabbers are available in a wide variety of sizes too.

Cosmetic sponges These tiny sponges are much denser and less aerated than normal sponges, so they have a finer closed texture. This makes them ideal for working in smaller scales, as they can apply paint without overloading the surface. They also come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

Tidy up time…

I am notoriously lapse at washing up my paint brushes. More often than not, I won’t wash them up until I have literally used all the brushes that I have and Tony starts gagging (drama queen) at the rancid smell of water in my ‘soaking pot’. But when it does finally become time to clean them (working on the premise that you are using the type of paints that we covered in Issue 2), all of the paint applicators listed in this feature can be cleaned with nothing more complicated than hot soapy water. To clean my brushes I use generous quantities of inexpensive washing up liquid and gently rub the bristles onto a flat kitchen sponge. For my dabbers and dabbing sponges, I use the same washing up liquid and leave them to dry out completely on top of either an old tea towel of some kitchen roll in the sunshine.

In the next issue, we tackle ‘air dry clay’.

But if there is a specific topic or subject that you would like us to cover in this Back To Basics feature, do drop us an email and let us know! ppmag@petitepropertiesltd.com

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PETITE PROPERTIES | 29

Book box project 1:24

BOOK BOX

project

part 2 - The EXTERIOR Create a hidden cottage inside the covers of a book!

The first thing I have to say before we get underway with part 2 of our Book Box is - WOW! The response to this project idea (launched in Issue 2) has been amazing. It certainly seems to have resonated with readers and I have lost count of how many excited message, emails and conversations that I have had with people that begin; “Well, I’ve already got my box and I can’t wait to start!”

This excitement has not been limited to half scale fans only, as I know that many of you who have re-sized, either the box or the rooms to enable 1:48th scale versions to be created too. I am really delighted to have inspired so many of you to make along with me and as I know you have been waiting so very patiently for the next instalment; let’s get cracking on the exterior!

Paint

tools

Acrylic paint (matt finish): Chocolate Brown Mustard Yellow Black

Scissors, craft knife / scalpel Long ruler (with metal finger guard) Pencil & black pastel pencil Table fork Wide flat paint brush & bristle brush Sponge & plastic bag (for painting) Pegs & tweezers Large sewing needle

White (undercoat) spray paint Or white (matt) acrylic paint is a suitable alternative Gold Highlighting Paint* (*PP Paint range) 30| PETITE PROPERTIES

Wooden box I bought my box from ‘The Works’ (UK) Width: 25cm Depth: 20cm Height: 10cm

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materials Thick cardboard Corrugated plastic - I bought mine from a model railway show.

UHU Adhesive Double sided tape – I always use carpet tape as it is super sticky and cheap!

Funky foam / EVA foam: A3 sheet x2–(approximately 29.7cm x 42cm& 2mm thick) Embroidery thread Masking tape Metal decals (Front & Spine)* Metal scrapbook corners x4* Metal clasp* Gold Peel Off Alphabet Stickers *Ordered online from TEMU

Book box project 1:24 Measurements: The sizes that I have given for the cover and spine relate to the box that I am converting.

However, if you are using a different box you will have to amend the measurements to suit its size.

I recommend a 2.5cm overlap at the top and front edges for the two covers and the top of the spine.

Thick card

26cm

2 The spine of the book cover is made from two layers of funky foam sandwiched together, so that the spine can bend when the box is opened.

The picture shows the hidden inner layer of the spine in purple foam and the outer layer is black foam.

26cm

22cm

Cut both pieces of foam out to the size shown. Stick the purple inner section centrally onto the larger piece of foam. Cut out the corner sections of the black foam, see picture. Once again fold over the edges of the outer spine over the purple backing and stick down. Leave to dry.

18cm

Top Tip: For this project I used a combination of double sided carpet tape (for instant adhesion) and UHU adhesive (for long term adhesion) to stick the parts of the cover together. I personally prefer to use carpet tape rather than a craft style double sided sticky tape for two reasons…

A/ It is infinitely stickier!

B/ It is much cheaper, for much more tape.

3 Cut out a strap from funky foam.

20cm

Lighting notes: If you have chosen to light your book box, you will have a number of wires on the exterior of your box. These will need to be tidied and fixed into position before the cover is stuck in place. I used masking tape to secure and group my wires together. If you are able to, you could also engrave tiny channels / grooves into the exterior surface of your box, in which to conceal the lighting wires.

If you have purchased a catch for your book box, you will need to consider the width of strap that will work with it.

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Strap

Funky foam

20.5cm

FLUSH

and cut out two pieces of thick card in the measurements shown. Next, cut a piece of funky foam that is 2.5cms bigger than the cardboard cover, but flush at the rear edge of the cover.

Stick the cardboard cover onto the foam, as shown. Carefully cut away the corners of the foam, then fold the edges of the foam over the edges of the book cover and stick into position. (See Top Tip) Repeat and cover the second cover in the same way. Set aside.

Funky foam

30cm

the cover of the book 1box Toyoucreate first need to carefully mark

3.5cm PETITE PROPERTIES | 31

Book box project 1:24

4

Using a pencil and ruler, drawer vertical and horizontal lines onto the spine and both covers of the book to create panels and added surface texture.

If you wish to create stitching on your book cover, simply use a regular table fork and press the prongs into the foam in an even line that can be used as a stitch guide later in the construction process.

5 As I used black funky foam to create my faux leather book cover, there was no need to apply a base coat of paint.

However, if required apply two coats of a either black, dark grey or dark brown to create a suitable base colour. Leave to dry.

Using a wide flat brush apply 6medium brown acrylic paint to the surface of the book’s spine. Do not allow the paint to get into the score lines previously drawn onto the foam using a pencil.

I used a side to side action to apply the paint to the cover. Do not try to completely cover the foam in paint.

Instead allow a little of the base colour to still show through. Paint the two covers and strap in the same way. Leave to dry.

I used a scrunched up plastic bag to 7applyNext, a light coat of mustard yellow

The acrylic paint I used on my book cover.

Mustard & Chocolate Brown

the score lines in the 8cover,ToI define used a black pastel pencil

paint. Dab the paint covered bag over the spine. Once again, allow the colours previously applied to show through.

Paint the two covers and strap in the same way.

and redrew the lines on the two covers and spine. (See picture 10)

using a dry bristle 9brush,Finally, apply a tiny amount of Gold Highlighting Paint to all the surfaces of the book’s cover.

Allow the paint to lightly catch on the surface, scored lines and edges of the cover. Leave to dry.

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the stitched detail on both the spine and cover 10 To create Strap, I threaded a needle with embroidery thread, then stitched along the previously imprinted guide holes.

Book box project 1:24

11

I used gold ‘peel off’ sticker letters that are regularly used for card making to create my book box’s title and author lettering. As I felt that the gold lettering was a little bit to bright, I distressed the sheet of stickers with a little black acrylic paint applied with a dry bristle brush, before I removed the individual letters from the sheet. I used a piece of masking tape to ensure that the letters were level on the spine of the book. The different elements of the book cover are now complete. Set aside.

12 To create the illusion of faux pages I used an inexpensive plastic sheet that I had previously bought from a model railway exhibition. The sheet was in fact intended to be used to create 1:76 scale corrugated metal, but instead I found it worked perfectly as the edges of the pages of my book box. The sheet was easily trimmed with a craft knife and ruler to the size required for both the top and front edges of my box. As the sheet was plastic, I spray painted the trimmed sections with white matt paint. When dry, I lightly distressed them with some Gold Highlighting paint. Finally, I stuck them onto the exterior of my book box using a combination of double sided tape and UHU adhesive. Leave to dry completely.

13 Once all the different elements of the book cover have been finished, it is time to stick them onto the box. With the lid closed, stand the box upright on its back edge (where the hinges are) and stick both the front and back covers onto the front and back of the box. Ensure that the back edges of the book covers are flush with the back elevation of the box. Hold the front and back covers firmly in position until the adhesive has dried.

For the perfect finishing 15touches, I used a small selection of metal accessories for the exterior cover of my faux book. These were all bought cheaply online and stuck into position (where applicable) with UHU adhesive.

turn the closed box onto its 14frontNext, edge. Stick the vertical edges of the cover’s spine into position, ensuring that the top and bottom edges of the spine line up with the top and bottom edges of the cover. Hold the vertical sides of the spine firmly in position until the adhesive has dried.

Note: The spine’s cover is not stuck to the box itself, this is to allow the spine to gently curve outwards when the box is opened. The void area beneath the spine is a useful place to conceal lighting wire if required. Stick the book strap onto the rear cover, as required and leave to dry.

In issue 4 In our final instalment, we tackle the incredibly fun bit of the project Filling the book box and bringing it to life!

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PETITE PROPERTIES | 33

light

up

Jennifer maddox As we continue looking at specific lighting scenarios, this issue we will be focusing on fire effects.

Fire is one of the most popular effects to add to a model. It can cover a multitude of situations including fireplaces, candles, burning buildings, bonfires and engine effects like a booster rocket or afterburners.

In this feature we will look at what LEDs make a good fire effect and go through a step-by-step process for a flame and a fire effect, along with some examples of completed scenes.

Warhammer Model using Water Splash Gel by Chris Buxey

What LEDs should we use for a fire effect?

Flickering LEDs are perfect for fire effects. They are the same type that come in fake candles, producing a random flame like effect. For fires it is usually beneficial to combine colours and both static and flickering LEDs to get the best effect. In the fire kits I sell they combine 3 LEDs. A static red, a flickering red and a flickering yellow which gives a realistic combination of colour and effect. The static LED gives an overall glow while the flickering LEDs let the light randomly dance around. Or you could use a green LED for a magical cauldron…

For smaller scales a single static nano LED is a very simple and effective way to light a small fireplace.

A few small twigs or coals arranged over the LED give a nice cosy glow to the fireplace without the red LED lighting up the whole room.

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Nano LED fire in 1:48th Teacup Cottage

Jennifer maddox Model Railway layouts often incorporate fire effects including lighting up coal fired locomotives, heaters in waiting rooms and adding details to the layout such as workers with a brazier or vehicles/buildings that have caught on fire.

0807 Flickering LED in OO Gauge Loco firebox (1:76)

I have provided fire effects for dioramas such as World War II bomb sites with flickering LEDs lighting up smoke made from cotton wool/teddy bear stuffing.

Other options include lighting up Sci-Fi ships or other engine effects where flickering LEDs give a more realistic burning effect. On larger models the LEDs are best combined with some kind of reflector inside the engine to boost the light output. One customer used the exterior reflector of halogen bulbs, but even smooth aluminium foil on a shaped housing can reflect light very well.

Step-by-Step

How to make a flame/candle Hold your wired LED bulb and put a blob of

Splash Gel over it. Using a cocktail stick 1. Water or similar, spread it over the bulb to give an initial even coating and start forming the flame shape.

Allow that to dry. It may take several hours depending on the thickness. Initially the gel will be milky white, but it turns transparent when it’s dry.

Apply a 2nd coat of the Water Splash Gel, but this time focus on forming a flame shape. Allow to dry.

2.

Apply a 3rd coat of Water Splash Gel continuing to form a flame shape with a finer point. Allow to dry.

3.

materials · LED bulb of choice (Any size suitable for your scale) · Green Stuff World Water Splash Gel or other similar acrylic gel medium · Cocktail stick, metal sculpting tool, piece of wire etc · Acrylic paints in yellows, oranges, reds etc.

Turn on the LED and check you are happy with the effect. Optional: Use thinned acrylic paints to add colour. I would use an orange or red at the base, moving to yellow at the top.

Please note: This should be applied as a glaze so the light from the LED can shin through. You can thin acrylic paints with water. Test on a piece of paper to check the thinness. You don’t want it so thin the colour doesn’t show at all but not so thick that it is opaque.

You are just enhancing the effect of the light inside.

4.

Included in this article are examples of one of my customers, Chris Buxey, who makes Warhammer models using the Water Splash Gel to create a variety of flame and explosion type effects. The gel is very versatile as it is thick enough to stay in the shapes you form. www.petite-properties.com

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Completed fire with flickering lights

Jennifer maddox

Step-by-Step

How to make a fire materials · Hot/cool melt glue – clear sticks that dry transparent (Loctite do clear sticks. Some dry milky white and are not as suitable)

Flames using hot melt glue

· Glazed tile or glass object (large jar, or flat piece) · Acrylic paints in yellows, oranges, reds etc.

Get a smooth surface to work on – I used a white glazed tile but a piece of glass/ glass jar will also work. It needs to be smooth so you can peel off the glue afterwards.

1.

Examples of flames

Heat up your glue gun and once the glue is

2. starting to drip, do a horizontal base and then draw tapered lines upwards to form flame

Painted flames

Once you have made a few flames, peel them

the surface, clean off any straggly bits and 3. off you can then add colour. Like before, use thinned acrylic paints to add colour, starting with richer reds or orange and blending to yellow at the top.

The flames will be very flexible so these can

be formed around your fireplace or you 4. either could use it as a backdrop to your fire with flickering LED lights underneath to light them up

Jennifer Jennifer's Top Tips · The same techniques can be applied to any type of fire whether it is inside a model railway loco, a bonfire, a fireplace or burners from a jet engine. · Fires can be enhanced with ‘smoke’ effects. · Flickering LEDs work best if the scale allows because it adds the element of movement which enhances realism.

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Jennifer maddox

Jennifer Maddox - Lighting q&a Since we launched issue 1, we have been inundated with reader’s questions.

I recently shared some of these questions with Jennifer and we thought a quick Q&A would be helpful for your common lighting dilemmas...

What tools do I need for wiring and lighting?

You generally need a drill (electric and/or hand drill) and small drill bits (2mm, 3mm etc) so that you can make holes for the lights/wiring. Glue or tape to fix wiring down is also handy. I use Magic Tape (writable tape) as this is ultra thin so easily concealed and doesn’t go sticky like masking tape.

Hot/cold melt glue is also useful as a safe glue for lighting and it dries quick but PVA can be used if you hold the light/wire in place with tape while it dries.

A small flat headed screwdriver would be required for more general lighting kits that are not plug and play.

I don’t want to see my lighting as I think the bulbs are too big for quarter scale. So how can I light my house?

I am assuming you mean smaller scales like 1:48th. In this case I use extremely small LEDs that are about the size of a pin head and the 1:48th lighting kits are designed primarily to be concealed lights, so if you fix them to the underside of the ceiling, they light up the room but no-one can see them.

How do I retro fit lighting to a 1:48 house that is already constructed?

This is always a bit trickier, but it should still be possible to drill holes from the back to feed the lights through and if it’s not decorated then you could tape down the wires and then cover with paint/wallpaper.

If it is decorated then you might have to accept being able to see the wires.

Business name: Small Scale Lights Online shop: www.smallscalelights.co.uk Blog: www.smallscalelights.co.uk/blog Facebook: www.facebook.com/smallscalelights

Photo credits: Bonfire in model railway – Robin Russell OO Gauge Loco – Paul Moorhead Warhammer Models x2 – Chris Buxey https://chrisbuxeypaints.com/ All others images by Jennifer Maddox

Next issue - model railway lighting

If you have a particular lighting scenario you are struggling with, or a model type you would like to see featured please get in touch with me or Bea and I will do my best to cover it in a future article... ppmag@petitepropertiesltd.com

Warhammer Model

by Chris Buxey

Would LEDs work in a 1:24 room box?

Yes, absolutely. All scales are suitable but you would use larger LEDs so that the bigger rooms can be lit equally effectively. For a 1/24th scale room box I usually use 3mm sized LEDs, but other options are available depending on what effect you wanted.

Can Jennifer show us step by step as I get confused?

The majority of the lighting kits come with step by step PDF instructions with clear photos to show how to install the lights. If you need further guidance, I am always happy to answer questions.

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Diane DeGan

Miniaturist

The Adoorable House Kit by Debbie Young

of the

MOMENT

Diane lives in the U.S. and is an active and longstanding member of our Petite Properties’ Modelling Community. Always ready to help other members and full of encouragement, Diane is a super talented miniaturist, who simply adores working in 1:48th scale. We are delighted to be able to share her beautiful work in this issue and we hope Diane’s fabulous smaller scale creations inspire you to have a go too!

I

’ve always been intrigued with architecture. As a girl I would spend some weekends at my Nana’s and would pour through her magazines. I would create my own blueprints from the pictures found in them. In 1979 my sister bought me my first dollhouse kit, a large 1:12th scale Victorian. I was in heaven! In 1998 I designed a huge mansion with 28 rooms. My friend, who owned a dollhouse shop, built the framework for me and I worked several years on it.

It came in three sections to fit through the door.

Let’s just say, I “used” to have a dining room…

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We had met our friends from England at the Chicago International Dollhouse Show in 2001. In 2019, we were able to visit them and attend Miniatura. My husband does HO trains and he pulled me over to Petite Properties. My friends sent me Stragglethorpe Manor for Christmas that year and I was totally into 1:48th scale after that! Now my husband and I can sit together at the kitchen table and model. There’s a lot of cross over with the hobbies. He’s by far my greatest influence and, of course, all the wonderful inspiration from shows and other modelers.

Miniaturist of the moment The smaller scale of 1:48th has grown in popularity and the items that are available has grown with it.

I usually have an idea of what time period I want to build for and a general plan for the interior. It’s often subject to change. I tend to be very “visual”.

I think my favorite parts are the interiors and all the details, plus the landscaping. I’d be lost without my pointy tweezers and X-acto knife. It would be impossible to pick a favorite project. I do really love how the castle and Hobbit house turned out. They were more recent, so I’m sure I’ll change my mind again as I build more.

Carson's Cottage Kit by Samantha Creations

I’m working on the exterior landscape of Cobblestone Snicket at the moment. While things dry, I’m also building the Cottage Stores kit. My future dream project is going to be Port Piran. I’ve collected lots of items for it and ideas are running happily through my head.

Diane

Debbie Young - Young at Heart Miniatures www.youngatheartminiatures.com

The Enchanted Cottage Kit by Petworth Miniatures

Samantha Creations www.samanthacreations.com Petworth Miniatures www.petworthminiatures.com

“

My future dream project is going to be Port Piran.

I’ve collected lots of items for it and ideas are running happily through my head. Diane.

“

Diane and her collection of Petite Properties

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INSIDE &

Out

Roz maclean In issue 2, we explored Roz Maclean’s stunning November Cottage, which she has lovingly brought to life; both inside and out. Now we are back, to explore the exterior of this nostalgic quarter scale cottage. To complement the cosy interior, Roz has drawn on fond memories of her childhood as the inspiration behind the beautiful garden base, which she has lovingly created.

outside

T

he garden of my November Cottage is inspired by my late Granda’s garden when I was growing up. It was an old house with a long garden, and I have fond memories of him always out in it pottering about and growing something.

There was an old toilet at the bottom of the garden, a shed, a lean-to greenhouse, veggie plot and various trees and plants. The only thing he didn’t have was an air-raid shelter, but I wanted to add this as it was a wartime garden.

I tried to situate the house, so it had some garden all around it. I had space to make a small front garden with a path, fences and gates. I made sure the paths ran around the house to the back door. I think this linked the house nicely to the garden.

The same shade of green paint was used on the windows and on the gates outside to tie them both together.

I used a variety of different materials in the garden, wood, mount board, card, landscaping materials, styrene, 3d printed items, polymer clay.

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Roz maclean I love to weather things and dirty them up to make them look more realistic. To do this I use chalk pastels or dry brushing with paint. I’ve used a static grass applicator for the lawns, which I think gives a really good ‘real lawn’ look. The hill around the Anderson shelter is made from different levels of foam board and balsa with decorator’s filler over the top to look like earth. I also like adding rust to metal items using super glue, bicarbonate of soda and paint.

This was my first official landscaping project. I’ve since gone on to landscape my Dad’s railway layout, where I’ve used the same principles on a much bigger area. I make plants and flowers in 1:12th scale too. I loved creating the garden of November Cottage, I think it was probably my favourite part. I had so many ideas I wanted to add in and there were so many things I could ‘dirty up’. So I started off by working out where I needed the house and walls to be then painted the base brown and added grass to the areas around the house, shed etc. I used fine-chip stones for the paths and after laying down, watered down PVA glue was added over the top to set them all. I wanted to add lots of different areas to the garden to add interest, so I made a hedge to screen off the area with the Anderson shelter and outside loo, I then added various other buildings like the shed, greenhouse and wood store.

I then brought it all to life by adding all the tiny items you might find in a much-loved garden. I tried to remember all the things that used to be in my Granda’s garden. I used lots of Petite Properties’ kits, polymer clay to make the veg and I 3d printed or made all the other extras.

Luckily, everything went surprisingly well when working on the garden, it just took a while to stick all

“

“

Luckily, everything went surprisingly well when working on the garden, it just took a while to stick all the tiny items down as they kept pinging off!

Roz.

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Roz maclean the tiny items down as they kept pinging off. I’d had a rough idea in my head of where I wanted to put things and managed to fit everything in, but then I’d think of something else I could add in and I’d have to find a place for it. I did this several times!

Inside Roz’s Anderson Shelter

My favourite part of the garden is probably the Anderson shelter. It was so much fun making the hill around it and adding the rust to the metal. The shelter itself is 3d printed and the front comes off, so you can have a proper look inside. I wanted to add the lamp in so it was easier to see inside. There’s a tiny bed in there too.

With everything being so small it was so much quicker to complete things than if it was 1:12th scale, I think it took me around a month to finish everything. That was trying to fit it around work and family life. I have an Ikea ‘Kallax’ unit in my craft room and the cottage and base just fits in perfectly. I have some room boxes I display in here too.

I think I have definitely caught the 1:48th bug. I’ve since bought Raven’s Perch, a book nook kit and another house. The kits are such brilliant quality, a joy to build and such great value. I just love the detail I can get from the tiny scale. Everyone who’s seen it is amazed by just how small it is. I think my next one will be Raven’s Perch, as I love a bit of horror and spooky things; so am going to do something along these lines.

Roz In the next issue, we swap a country cottage for a quarter scale New York town house and take a peek ‘inside’ & ’out’...

Do you love our new magazine & want to get involved?

Are you a small scale miniaturist working on an exciting project?

Would you like to share your miniature cations & see them in print?

Then don’t be shy, contact us today! ppmag@petitepropertiesltd.co m

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8TH JUNE 2025

Miniature MAESTRO Raven's Perch Build

Steven Bearpark

Hi everyone, and welcome to the latest installment of my ‘Raven’s Perch’ build.

A bit of a monochromatic episode, it turns out, as I clad the walls and get ready for the roof, but this will pay off later; the little details added later will really pop and stand out against.

I

must admit that I’ve really enjoyed this bit, it may have been somewhat repetitive, but I find it a great way for me to practice mindfulness; modelling and working with miniatures can be just so totally absorbing. I did take a break from this halfway through though, being keen to experiment with a different aspects and effects later on.

There are several ways you can proceed with cladding the MDF walls of the building that we were left with last time, but before anything else: I prime the MDF with diluted PVA glue (also known as builders, wood, craft or white glue).

I used a mix of 50/50 PVA/ water; this will help seal the surface and provide a good

Steven

key for whatever comes next.

For the stone chimney stack, I’ve chosen to use an air drying clay (DAS ‘Stone effect’ air drying clay) and for the majority of the walls I’ll be using basswood sheets that have been machined with an overlapping plank design (clapboard). I like to use wood for this because, in my mind, nothing looks more like wood than… wood, though very good results can be achieved with plastic card (it just takes more preparation). The basswood sheet will still need a little help however to deceive the eye into thinking it isn’t just a sheet of basswood on a model. I got the basswood online, from Northeastern Scale Lumber in MA, United States. I’ve bought from them on a couple of occasions without any problems whatsoever, but on the last occasion, HM Revenue and Customs put a

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Miniature maestro levy on the parcel that I had to pay before receiving it (and then claimed back afterwards). The VAT they had added exceeded the total cost of the basswood.

I’m aiming for a weathered, aged appearance overall, as if the building has been out in the elements for quite some time and neglected.

Firstly, I applied a thin coat of a light grey wood stain. I Clapboard... prefer to use water based products where possible as I want to minimise the amount of volatile solvents in my workspace (as well as the environment) as much as practicable. Using a cheap sponge on a stick ‘brush’, I liberally applied dove grey coloured, water based wood stain by ‘Village Green’. I immediately wiped the surplus off with a paper towel. The idea is not to give a perfect, even coverage but to irregularly leave it thin (and much thinner in places) to let the colour of the underlying wood come through. Because the stain is water based, the thin sheets of basswood will warp and curl, but in my experience, when dry they’ll be perfectly flat again. If they don’t flatten, then an application of the stain on the other side will help flatten the wood sheets. When this was dry (24 hours) I sanded it lightly to remove the raised ‘fur’ that accompanies basswood/balsa wood and to remove a bit of the stain off the raised edges of some of the planks which will help to amplify the effect of depth to the planking.

Light falls differently on scale models than it does on real life objects, and I find that adding a little extra contrast (light and shade) helps fool the eye, and I’ll do this a bit more.

Having done this, I cut the sheets to size and mark the positions of any openings such as doors or windows from the back with a pencil. Using these marks as a guide I cut inside the line with the scalpel, using many light strokes rather than trying to cut

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· Texture could be applied to the walls to simulate a stucco, rendered or plaster finish by simply applying a covering of fine sand and PVA glue mixed together, one of the textured acrylic pastes available from the likes of Golden, Windsor & Newton or Liquitex. Once dry it can be painted to your choice of colour. · There are many available printed paper effects than can be glued on to simulate brick, stone, plaster or wood. These are effective and relatively quick and easy to apply, though WHERE WE LEFT OFF care needs to be taken at corners. · Embossed plastic card can be cut to shape and glued on with a multi-purpose adhesive. · Balsa wood, coffee stirrers or the like can be applied in strips (horizontal or vertical) to give an effect of planks of…well… wood. · Cheap gap filler of plaster (or spackle) can be applied and when dry scribed into a brick or stone pattern, and once dry, painted.

Miniature maestro through in one go. It doesn’t have to be exact at this point, just not bigger than the pencil marks. I glued it in place with PVA, then when it had dried, using a file and sandpaper, I shaped the aperture to the exact size of the window or door. This is repeated for the rest of the structure. You will notice in the photographs that at each corner I have placed an upright piece of wood at the main internal and external corners to finish them off neatly and in keeping with the style of construction.

I then need to stop it looking so pristine and new.

This is my favourite part, because it lays the foundations for all the subsequent stages. The tools I use here are a scalpel, wire brush and a scribing tool.

A stiff wire brush and a good bit of pressure is used to create some grain marks in the wood - along the planks in the way that would naturally be the case, keeping them in line with the planks, i.e. not up and down. These marks are then further accentuated in places with the back edge of the scalpel blade, to deepen some lines and put a bit of random wavy grain into some planks. I don’t worry at all about where I put the lines other than they should remain within the boundaries of that individual plank. This stage in itself adds a great deal of character but the next stages add even more.

It would be very rare on a large building that planks weren’t joined in length. So, using the sharp edge of the plank I make marks where some of the planks are divided up. It would be common construction practice that planks are joined together where there are upright beams in the construction of the building, so some of these cuts are made in a vertical line on the side of the building in roughly the same place.

But, in reality, it would make for a weak construction if adjacent were joined in the same place, rather they’d be staggered - much as bricks always overlap.

If you look at one of my photos you’ll get the idea.

The scribing tool is then used to make a simple indentation in some places where construction nails might have been used, such as at the ends of individual planks or where they have been fixed to uprights. To do every plank like this might be a bit overpowering, so I’ve not done all. There’s some debate, as there often is over things, as to whether or not nails would be visible at this scale, but I think that these marks most certainly help to add interest to what might otherwise be a bland, uniform surface,

Staggered joints...

Nail holes...

Oil... certainly when washes of colour are applied later which settles into the indentation.

Again, using the sharp edge of the scalpel (other sharp cutting tools are suitable, but I like the lightness and ergonomics of a scalpel handle) I lift some of the edges of the planks, especially at the ends and joints and break or cut pieces off in places

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Miniature maestro to replicate unevenness, rotting edges and breaks; again all adding variety and interest, and ‘age'.

The rest of the ageing process is done using oil paints and thinners. (See previous page). I’ve found that artists turpentine is best but the evaporating liquid affects my nose, sinuses and throat so I avoid it at all times nowadays. Sansodor Odorless thinners by Winsor & Newton are my next choice. ‘Odourless’ the thinners may be, but I’m always aware of the chemicals that are given off and make sure that my room is well ventilated. The oil colours I use are burnt umber, raw sienna and Ivory black, again from Winsor & Newton, but other cheaper brands are suitable for this process. I use the oils for other projects and I’ve found the cheaper brands not quite as suitable for these purposes – cheaper brands usually equate to less and larger particle size in my experience and may appear grainy when thinned out to apply a transparent “glaze” of colour rather than the smooth transition of colour I might be after. I squeeze a bit out of each tube onto a piece of scrap cardboard (e.g. from a delivery box), as this helps absorb any excess linseed oil in the paint (it will remain useable for a good few days if placed in a sealed tub afterwards). Oil paint is very useful for modelling, when thinned it is beautiful transparent and flows thinner than acrylics, can be blended and worked over an extended timescale and ‘dries’ without any ‘tide marks’ to a very matte finish.

To start off, I apply just thinners to a panel: this will allow the oil paint to spread out more, flowing into the wood grain. Mixing a little of the desired oil paint with a lot of thinners in a palette (you’re aiming for coloured thinners here rather than thinned paint) I touch the building with a brush laden with the mixture, and the colour spreads, particularly into the areas where the grain has been made with the brush and scalpel, and into the broken sections of the planks by capillary action. I start off by using a little of the raw sienna in random areas, then the burnt umber,

Dried...

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Veranda... allowing the colours to mix in places and keeping them separate in others. The black is used sparingly - principally on the ends of boards or broken sections and into the corners as these are the areas that would naturally weather more. The beauty of the oils is that if you don’t like a section you have done, or think it is too heavy, then brush some thinners on it and the colour will disperse further into the wood.

The colours will lighten over a couple of days as the paint thoroughly dries. You can then always add more if it dries too lightly for your liking.

I like to leave it then for a few days and come back to it with a fresh view, to add or change things.

You may notice that I’ve also started to apply a little green oil paint (mixes of Sap Green and Winsor

Roof Supports...

Miniature maestro Yellow) to areas where I think algae or moss might be starting to grow. I’ll be doing more of this as and when I assemble the parts.

Taking a break from finishing the wood clapboarding, and being keen to move onto different materials, I wanted to tackle the veranda. There’s no harm in doing whatever order I want do these things in, always mindful of not making later construction difficult or impossible without damaging what I’ve already done. (I do seem to be particularly ‘ham fisted’ sometimes). The veranda railings that come with the kit are great, but, me being me, I wanted to add a bit of extra depth to them and from the photos you’ll see where I’ve added thin strips of balsa wood (giving them the same treatment as above, and I’m pleased with the way these have turned out and harmonise with the rest of the construction.

What I was itching to get onto, was the roof of the veranda. The kit comes with a flat card roof, and it would look good as it is, painted or covered to look like roofing felt or wooden planks, but I had something else in mind.

I wanted a rusting corrugated iron style roof. Using coffee stirrers (given the same ageing process as before), I added a roof support on the walls of the building where the veranda was, raised in order to give the roof a sloping appearance and added ‘joists’ connecting these to the top edge of the veranda. I like to recycle/repurpose cheap materials where I can. In reality there would be horizontal support lathes added but they won’t be seen, and I wasn’t worried about sticking exactly to real construction methods where it wouldn’t stand out like a sore thumb.

The real fun and satisfaction for me came in weathering the corrugated sheets. How exactly I did these will be the subject of a later article in itself, if you’re interested in following along. In general, though, thin corrugated aluminium sheets are given a general acrylic paint covering to achieve an opaque base in a mid orange/brown. This is varied in patches with lighter oranges and darker browns while still wet so that the colours run into each other, and then use a combination of dabbing with a sponge and speckling with an old brush to add texture and a reasonable representation of random speckled rusting. I’ll then use oils to add glazing washes and finish off with pastel powders. The final step is to seal it with a matte lacquer once glued in place.

I think the effect is suitable for all scales and can be applied as heavy rusting as seen here, or just lightly in areas, however you want it.

There are printed sheets of paper available that give a realistic impression of this, but personally I don’t think that anything beats a three-dimensional representation. I tried all sorts of methods, until I discovered the steps that allowed me to quite quickly reproduce the effect I was after.

Next time, we will complete the major part of the structure, and groundwork. I made a couple of small dioramas (pictures attached), experimenting with different effects for the groundwork and using XPF foam (insulation sheets). I decided to try for a light covering of snow and ice on this one, not so heavy that the colours and textures so far achieved will be lost under a blanket of snow, but just enough to hopefully suggest the first cold signs of winter.

More of that next time…

‘Til then, Happy modelling,

Steve

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Spectacular VERNACULAR

THE OLD POST OFFICE, TINTAGEL

My lifelong passion for architecture is not limited to one style, period or genre and over the last two issues I have only just begun to dip my toes into the wealth of British architecture which I so intensely enjoy. In previous issues, we have visited an iconic medieval hall in Derbyshire and soaked up the elegance of a romantic country house in Dorset, steeped in an unexpected classic Venetian style. However, for this issue, I just had to share an achingly ancient gem from the wind swept west coast of Cornwall. Ever changed over the passage of time, yet still retaining the echoes of its past; The Old Post office at Tintagel is truly an unexpected gem in Cornwall’s varied and diverse architectural crown…

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Spectacular Vernacular

O

ne sunny August day, back in 2023, Tony and I visited The Old Post Office at Tintagel for the very first time. I have long known of The Old Post Office and had frequently seen it celebrated on postcards and noted in architecture books, but I had never had the opportunity to actually visit. As keen and active National Trust members, Tony and I are no strangers to visiting stately homes and country piles which are in the expert care of the trust, but they are also custodians of some very small and modest properties too.

What is a medieval hall house?

A medieval hall house was a large, communal space in a house where the majority of living and entertaining took place.

Hall houses were built in England, Wales, Ireland, and lowland Scotland between the 13th and 16th centuries.

(AI overview - Google)

By National Trust standards, The Old Post Office is a very humble dwelling. But despite its size, it is a hugely important example of a very early domestic building in the West Country. Historical records show that a small ‘hall house’ was first built on the site at Tintagel, sometime between 1350 to 1400.

Constructed from local brown slate and green stone, with the occasional pieces of thoughtfully placed granite, the building has solid, sturdy walls; which in places are almost 1 metre thick (39ish inches).

Tintagel is a coastal location and to withstand the heavy west winds which constantly batter this part of the Cornish coastline, the building has a deliberately low profile; seemingly hugging the ground beneath it.

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“

Despite it being the height of summer, we were so lucky that on the day we visited, we were literally the only visitors wandering around this iconic, ancient building.

This enabled me to really take my time and soak in the building’s details and palpable atmosphere.

Bea.

”

The original ‘hall’ section of the house is still intact, with a feature fireplace and mezzanine level above...

The floor plan of the original parts of the house show that it is typical of many late medieval hall houses, which over time has grown and been adapted in a wide range of different ways. The main chimney stack of The Old Post Office is particularly iconic and makes the building easily recognisable.

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Built in three sections, it is topped with a chimney pot seemingly constructed of four roof slates, each placed vertically on top of the stack.

Over the centuries, the use of this ancient building at Tintagel has also evolved and changed. From medieval hall house to a ‘letter receiving office’,

Spectacular vernacular additions to the structure have been added; some to extend the property and some to reinforce the original aging structure.

The window in the tiny parlour...

The hamlet where The Old Post Office is located has also expanded. In the mid-19thcentury the evolution of tourism brought with it an inevitable influx of excited Victorian visitors to both the village and the popular nearby castle ruins too.

Room by room…

The Post Room: Ancient and beautiful on the outside… The Old Post Office is unexpectedly homely and rustic on the inside too. Entering through the front door on the left, we moved out of the strong Cornish sunshine into a dark, cool interior. The tiny Post Room officially opened in the 1870s and quickly became the hub of the hamlet. Sadly, this use of the building was fairly short lived and the post office closed only a few years later in 1878.

The Hall: Walking from the small post room into the hall, the interior surprisingly opens up. The double height hall is open to the eaves and dominated by a large open fireplace. The walls and ceiling above the fireplace are blackened with smoke and it isn’t hard to imagine the huge roaring fire that would have been burning on cold bleak winter days.

Looking over the hall is a ‘Gallery’ (see photo on the opposite page). The guide book reliably informed me that this was never a minstrels’ gallery, instead it was a creative use of the dead space, adapted to include a small separate additional bed chamber. On a personal note, as heat rises, I imagine sleeping there would have been toasty and warm, albeit a tad smoky too!

“

Bea loved this wonderful building and I recall that she did get kind of carried away with her camera…

So much so that I ended up dancing the photographic equivalent of the ‘Hokey Cokey’…

You put your whole self in (the photo), you take your whole self out… in, out, in, out…

You get the idea! Tony.

”

The Parlour: I think if I asked one of my customers to image a tiny cosy cottage parlour, then the one at Tintagel would be a very close fit! The room itself is just so small and it was hard to fully capture the size with my camera. I was incredibly thankful that we were the only visitors at the time, but even then Tony and I had to manoeuvre carefully around each other in the tiny room.

It is thought that the parlour probably began life as an animal shelter and was converted into the room we see today in the 1890s; making it a positively modern addition to this ancient house! Once again a huge fireplace dominates the cosy room and large flagstone line the floor. Looking around the room, it

My human ruler in action (Tony is 5ft 9)... www.petite-properties.com

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Spectacular vernacular is filled with appropriate pieces of antique furniture and when we visited a small posy of freshly picked garden flowers dressed the deep low window ledge.

North & south bedrooms: The first floor of The Old Post Office fills the space on either side of the main hall. The two small bedrooms are tucked right up into the rafters. The aptly named bedrooms are both accessed by some pretty perilous stairs (by modern standards) and despite their tiny proportions, they must have been pretty draughty and cold rooms beneath the (un-insulated) heavy roof tiles; see below Outside in the tiny cottage garden, which is tucked behind the post office, you really do get a sense of the vast age of the building. Huge wall buttresses were added in the 20th century to support the weight of the heavy stone tiled roof.

Tintagel Post Office is a truly humble building, one that despite centuries of adaption and change, has somehow managed to retain a sense of graceful purpose and age. I was hugely inspired by the open

fireplaces and the cottage style interior and the colour palette of the exterior certainly gave me a wonderful starting point for new smaller scale projects and ideas. So, if you are planning a trip to rugged north Cornwall, do take the time to look in on this very special National Trust property and if you can visit when it’s empty… even better!

In the next issue, our focus moves from an ancient Cornish dwelling to a world famous writer’s retreat in the idyllic neighbouring county of Devon...

At the rear, the heavy roof is kept in place by huge sloping buttresses...

The Old Post Office at Tintagel, Cornwall is in the care of the National Trust & further information about this very special ancient dwelling can be found on their website...

www.nationaltrust.org.uk

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Point of discussion

Point DISCUSION... of

Artificial intelligence: just harmless fun?

If you regularly access the internet, you will have most likely encountered AI in at least one or more of its varied forms. From Apps to images, artificial intelligence has not only arrived, but is making its presence known. In this P.O.D we take a closer look at the effect AI is having within our miniature world...

Love it or hate it, AI is now everywhere and as with any new technology, its potential application within the full scale world is of course vast, evolving and potentially infinite. So for the purposes of this article, I am purely going to confine our exploration of its use(s) firmly within the realms of the miniature world only.

So, what is AI? How can it be used to create miniatures? And ultimately, is it a new technological tool which will revolutionise our hobby OR is it simply a computer based ‘cheat’ which will negatively impact creativity and imagination? Lots of questions and as yet, I personally don’t have a clear view, nor do I think that I know enough about the subject to form a firm opinion. But whatever your position on this topic; the reality is that AI technology is here to stay and it will continue to become increasingly accessible and simpler to both access and use.

Current common uses of AI: · Design and the development of design concepts.

· Creating visualisations of new concepts or ideas (videos & images) · Create text and written content in a wide variety of genres, for varied applications. · Automated chatbots My head is packed full of ideas, (probably too many for me to actualise in the days left in my own lifetime), so using AI to create images that are starting points or inspiration for design concepts is not something that interests me. However, I do know that there are already quite a few professional and amateur miniaturists who do use AI programmes to generate ideas and to help flesh out and ‘picture’ new designs. There are many that would say that they are cheating… but are they? Or are they simply just making good use of yet another technological advancement, one which is now readily at our disposal?

“

If I want to create a visual representation of an idea, I simply pick up a pen and sketch it, but I suppose that approach is not for everyone…

Bea. www.petite-properties.com

“

A

s the world moves on, so does the progress of new technology. Over the past decade (or so), we have seen huge leaps forward in the utilisation of new equipment and manufacturing tools within the miniature world. Laser cutting technology is now common place and of course 3D printers have emerged and revolutionised the smaller scale miniature scene in particular. Amongst the melee of technological advancement, another new creative tool has appeared – Artificial Intelligence or AI.

PETITE PROPERTIES | 53

Point of discussion I provided the keywords: Bee inside a church making a model house ...and the programme did the rest. It is a clunky and clumsy demonstration, but I can see how, with practise and refined keyword skills, I could create some very interesting images. For me, (and many miniaturists) my brain already does this, but I can see the benefit of being able to create a visual image of an idea almost instantly.

Can art be generated by computer?

My personal experience of AI is somewhat limited to seeing the images created by it which have flooded (seemingly) every social media platform. In a massively simplified explanation, AI generated art is created by a computer programme scanning and learning from millions of images from the internet, along with the text associated with them. The computer programme then utilises what it has learnt and using the prompt of ‘user selected’ keywords, AI then creates and blends a visual interpretation.

But is this art? Or is it computer generated art using human instruction? At the moment I would say that it probably is the latter; however in the future it is widely thought that advancements will enable AI to create its own ideas and starting points, negating the need for human input. For many, that is an unwelcome prospect, but for the purposes of this article I will set that thought to one side, as I don’t want to veer too widely AI image made with Lexica off topic.

To explore AI generated images I did a quick bit of research and then created the image on the left.

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AI technology is of course not just limited to the creation of videos or images which could be used within the miniature world. AI can also be used to produce pieces of writing; something that today’s students have naturally been very keen to explore!

But it’s not just school pupils who are looking for a short cut. I personally know someone who uses it for their professional writing and I don’t think that anyone would suspect that they do! (And before you ask, no… Mo and I don’t use it when writing this magazine, our articles are written the old fashioned way!) But it does raise the question; how would you feel about AI generated articles in your miniature magazines? Or kit instructions written by a computer programme? For me this would be a very sad outcome: but one that is now almost an inevitability, rather than a far fetched idea.

“

In 10 years, we might see AI super intelligence that outperforms humans in everything it does.

Anne Lee. (Senior Technology Advisor, Technology Leadership Office.)

“

Sketching out ideas, with pen & paper

Thoughts from our members…

When we asked PPMC members for their thoughts on the use of AI within the miniature world, they were keen to share! After reviewing their feedback, I would say that the majority seemed to express their general distrust of AI generated images; mainly due to their experience of seeing them on social media platforms. Their main issue was an increasing number of AI generated images being falsely passed off as ‘real’ photos, which despite common visual ‘inaccuracies’, often fool people into believing they are authentic. It is of course one thing to aspire to being able to create and build artisan quality miniatures, but a whole other issue if the miniature you are aspiring to create isn’t in fact real at all!

Point of discussion

“

I find the use of AI images frustrating sometimes. When I see a gorgeous dollhouse scene on Instagram and think wow the maker is really talented and then see it is an AI rendered image it frustrates me.

Annemieke Kluiver

“

Currently, there are a number of ways that you can ‘tell’ an AI image, but with the swift progression of technology I don’t think these visible glitches will be around for much longer. This of course will make the whole issue of identifying AI images so much more difficult than it currently is.

·

· · ·

· · ·

Common visual glitches which giveaway an AI generated image…

Hands – AI currently seems to really struggle with them and often there are more (or less) fingers than there should be and where they should be!

Legs – Like hands, there are often too many, or not enough in AI generated images.

Ears… As above.

Inconsistent or implausible lighting is another giveaway, especially when the impact of the lighting onto the objects within the image doesn’t match up.

Repeated or unrealistic patterns or textures Logos or writing that read as nonsense.

Improbable content or subject.

AI is of course a HUGE topic and this article has explored just a tiny relevant area of it. The influence of AI technology is far reaching and as such it is a subject that I know we will return to again in a future issue. But for now, whatever your position on this topic is; AI is certainly a Jack that isn’t about to go back in the box. Instead, AI technology is bound to become increasingly accessible and simple to use, resulting in its use within the miniature world continuing to grow and be explored.

AI is a “useful jumping off point” for me. I am unable to form images in my mind, but I can form words - AI can put those words into an image for me. I can then use the image as a tool, to create my final project.

This is especially helpful for abstract/fantasy projects, like a wizard house I am working on. When I was stuck on how the wizard study might look like, I created a few AI images of “wizard studies” that gave me ideas for the room in my PP house.

As AI is not going to go away, we can learn to use it to our advantage. I was part of a discussion, not too long ago, regarding laser printers, and 3-D printers, and if they should be allowed to be used by artisans (in this specific case, IGMA) in their work. Some of us use technology in our work, and some of us don’t.

Either is fine. Trying to find the moral high ground on why certain technology should not be used is pointless, since technology is here to stay.

Christiane Starks

In the artistic world it does seem pointless, 'produce a painting of a Suffolk mill that looks like a Constable painting' why do that? As with photo-shopped images, as long as it is clear that the image is an AI image, I'm ok with that. Some people are happy with a cheap print from an AI image from a discount shop, others will still want a hand painted picture. In terms of modelling it could be useful to inspire, is it any different asking for an AI image of a spooky house than doing a Google search for a spooky house and looking at other peoples work?

Rob Soar

Your Comment: So what do you think?

Is AI a benefit to the miniature world or a slayer of good old imagination?

We would love to hear from you, so why not share your thoughts on AI with us?

Below: A generic AI image from Facebook

Email: ppmag@petitepropertiesltd.com www.petite-properties.com

PETITE PROPERTIES | 55

Ken bonham

FOR THE LOVE of

Barns

Former teacher Ken Bonham has a passion for historic threshing barns, Ann Evans caught up with him at his home in Birmingham.

K

en Bonham travels the country to find historic barns, he researches them, photographs and writes about them, he gives talks on them and following a chance remark by his wife Maggie, he makes scaled models of them.

Ken builds his models of barns from balsa wood in 1:100 scale. As they can be up to 200ft in length even at 1:24 they would be 8ft long! Far too big to store in their unique canal-side flat in Birmingham or take along to the illustrated talks that Ken regularly gives.

Making models of barns is just one of the activities that this skilled and versatile former teacher turns his hand to. You could add to his curriculum vitae: sculpting, art, woodwork, bee keeping, desktop publishing, running a city farm and teaching in both primary schools and secondary schools rising to senior

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KEN BONHAM WRITTEN BY ANN EVANS positions – Oh, and did I mention his IT skills?

Ken was prominent in getting children and teachers to be more IT savvy, resulting in arranging for a specially equipped Big Blue Bus to visit schools in the Birmingham area which had an IT suite upstairs and a library downstairs.

Born and bred in Coventry, Ken was greatly inspired by his father Frank who was very skilled in sculpting.

Like Ken, Frank made things from wood but also however, worked with blocks of Perspex as part of his job as a metal polisher at Daimler. He discovered that off-cuts of Perspex could be made into attractive bookends, ornate wine glasses and paper knives.

Ken began crafting at a very early age. He recalls how his Grandad would come to tea on a Friday afternoon bringing with him a bag of wood off-cuts

Ken bonham Left: Walls can be made from any suitable material, these are from Styrofoam.

Below: Barns made from Balsa Wood timber.

Bottom right: Ken names the timbers.

Note the intricate roof structures.

from a local wood yard and a mixed bag of nails. Ken would spend the weekend and evenings making things before the next supply arrived.

Growing up he got into art and clay sculpting – and a number of his works currently take pride of place in their flat – along with countless paintings and ‘Life boxes’ filled with mementoes from different periods of his and Maggie’s lives.

His fascination with threshing barns came about when travelling to Bristol for the weekend to attend a training course. Not keen on motorway driving, Maggie noticed a Tythe Barn marked on the map. So, they made a detour to Ashleworth Tithe Barn in Gloucestershire – a 15th century barn and now a Grade II Listed Building. Thoroughly enjoying their discovery, on the way home they called into Middle Littleton Tythe Barn near Evesham – and by then Ken was well and truly hooked on barns!”

“I’ve always loved woodwork and it was the roof structures that first attracted me to barns,” says Ken. “Since those early days of about 15 years ago, we’ve visited more than 400 barns around the UK and Europe.”

Early on he discovered that English Heritage and Historic England websites were useful sources of information on where to find historic barns.

Fascinated by their history, culture, structure and also their social context, Ken created a website: www.greatbarns.org.uk categorising the many hundreds of barns he has visited, as well as providing detailed information, photographs, illustrations and articles which make for fascinating reading. He has also created a beautifully laid out flip book of barns that can be viewed on his website, which he is planning on publishing.

Not surprisingly, he’s often in demand to give talks on the subject. These he illustrates with information boards and his 3D models in 1:100 scale.

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Ken bonham The chance remark about making models, mentioned earlier, came about when he and Maggie were visiting the John Soane Museum in Lincoln’s Inn Field.

Ken explained, “That’s when I first became aware of architectural models as an art form and collectable.

On another London visit we went to an exhibition at the Royal Society of Antiquaries and saw a beautiful cabinet of curiosities with a model of Stonehenge on the top. This was on loan from the museum in Devizes, so when we were in Dorset, we paid it a visit. This is where Pitt-Rivers had his estate, and the museum was full of models of his excavations made by his estate carpenter. My wife jokingly said, ‘You could make models of your barns.’ A remark which she has since come to regret!”

Ken’s method of constructing model barns is to look at how they were built and do the same on a smaller scale using his own photographs, diagrams and plans when available. “I make the trusses up beforehand A collection of card buildings.

Card barn by Ken

Ken’s latest venture is to create barns and other buildings from card, by manipulating photographs of the building on a Photo Editor programme and 3D software. The process begins by photographing the building from as many sides and angles as you can, as well as photographing important details. The photos are uploaded into a Photo Editing system. The sides, top and bottom are all equalled out – following the step-by-step processes, to eventually become like a ‘flatpack’ image with tabs, which is then cut out, folded, the tabs glued and the model constructed.

Ken reminds anyone planning on visiting an ancient barn not to rely on Satellite Navigation as barns do not have postal addresses or postcodes. Have a large-scale map and be prepared for narrow lanes, fords, floods, herds of cattle and flocks of sheep.

from balsa wood then assemble them bay by bay. I use any appropriate material for the walls such as cork, card, clay, Styrofoam etc.”

Thatched roofs can be made from coir – coconut fibre used to line hanging baskets, carpet, or even a face flannel soaked in PVA glue. Walls can be made from cardboard and sometimes for an effective finished look he will make an edited photo print covering.

Coffee stirrers also come in handy to give an effective timber frame look.

Card houses, barns & a pigstye.

Ann

For more information on historic threshing barns, please go to Ken Bonham’s website: www.greatbarns.org.uk

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Diorama drama

the

Christopher Burns

Mirthful Miniaturist

THE BODY SNATCHER - A 1:48 DIORAMA

I

like to think of myself as a ‘second generation miniaturist’ as it was my Mum who joined the local club ‘Dollshouse and Miniature Enthusiasts’ (DAME) over 30 years ago. I was about 5 or 6 at the time and miniatures quickly became a family concern, with my late Dad creating small wooden items or wiring elements for Mum’s projects.

When FIMO appeared we all would sit around the dining table and have a go sculpting doll faces… with very dodgy results now looking back! My parents got me started with my first 12th scale room box in the form of a toyshop and later a Victorian sweetie stall followed.

I did not return to miniature making until around 2019, when my partner Conn got more invested in his hobby of miniature figure painting for tabletop games. His interest rekindled my own passion, and I began with a PP kit ‘Washtub Cottage’ in 1:48. I began an Instagram account to record my miniature makes and called myself ‘The Mirthful Miniaturist’. In 2022 I joined my Mum in the DAME club and

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PETITE PROPERTIES | 59

Diorama drama

The finished diorama measures 15” (W) x 14” (D) x 5” (H). in February 2023, as we celebrated 35 years since its founding, I was asked to help manage the club taking on the role of Chairperson.

Greyfriars Kirkyard the idea in my head formed of an attempted ‘body snatching’ being foiled. In the mid-1800s with the rise of medical research a shortage of bodies to dissect created a gruesome black market in corpses. Bodies would be stolen under the cover of darkness across the UK and in the case of Ireland shipped to cities such as London or Edinburgh often hidden in whiskey barrels!

In my model the whiskey barrel can be seen waiting to the side of the open grave while a policeman begins to lead away the handcuffed thief who has been caught in the act of disturbing the dead! The site itself is an amalgamation of places I have visited for example the ancient burial ground Friar’s Bush in my home city of Belfast gave me the idea of a ‘famine mound’ and field stone walled perimeter.

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Diorama drama I began initially by using the PP base kit of ‘Raven’s Perch’ using Modroc to mould and sculpt the landscape and considered where my open grave would be and the electronics. The hollow hill of the base gave me adequate space to include both a small box to act as the grave and room for a battery pack and switch.

The perimeter wall I formed using XPS foam and hot tools to sculpt and I was pleased at the effect I was able to create and how lightweight the finished elements are.

Occasionally, learning to use the hot tools as I went, I would be a little too heavy handed, but this just created small voids where time had caused stones to fall from the ancient wall!

XPS foam is a commonly used material in tabletop gaming to create terrain and a good example of how other miniature based hobbies can borrow techniques from each another. My top tip would be to make yourself aware of these other modelling pursuits by going to shows and talking to other makers or following folks on Youtube and Instagram where they often post step by step guides. Hobbies such as Warhammer, model railways and plastic kit model building all have great skills and ideas to crossover.

I knew I wanted to create a small Victorian era structure as a bothy near the entrance gates in my diorama and so as I wanted something very small and humble, I combined the PP ‘Lean to Scullery’ and ‘Lean to Loo’ kits. Using air dry clay, I created brickwork on its exterior and made a small alteration to the front window with the clay to create two smaller arched windows. Another PP kit was ‘bashed’ to make my police vehicle, squaring the roof of the 1:48 carriage kit and adding some fine mesh and a horse taken from an old tin toy, both sourced from eBay.

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Diorama drama I created the other two main structures by casting acrylic resin parts from moulds made by the Spanish company Green Stuff World. These formed the burial vaults in the model, the smaller of which adapts a PP ‘Arched Tudor door kit’ as cast iron pierced gate. I had great fun then creating the many memorials merging 3D printed elements from PP and Etsy sellers with bits of scrap card and foam. To decide on their placement, I made a small card template based on my PP Gothic coffin and marked across my base the layout for the graves. It was important to me that it seemed many of the headstones had sunk over the centuries and for this the Modroc helped create an uneven ground surface. To create the piles of freshly dug earth and wet muddy areas I used modelling pastes by AK Interactive.

My next steps, and always my favourite element in miniature making, saw me age and weather surfaces such as the roof tiles and stone by adding the impression of moss and lichen before adding layers of static grass and model vegetation across the diorama.

Finally, I painted two 1:48 figures purchased from Modelu3d and placed them to complete the scene.

I am yet to remember to clock up the hours spent on one specific model and often I am guilty of having a few different projects underway at the same time, but I dedicated a couple of hours most evenings to this specific diorama for around 3 weeks. I am not sure what my next project is going to be, but I have elements collected for around 3 distinct ideas, I have a commissioned piece to fulfil and have yet another order placed with Petite Properties!

Instagram; themirthfulminiaturist Club Facebook; DAMEnorthernireland

Chris

ADVERTISING Opportunities

As this unique new magazine is an independent publication, we plan to only include advertising that is relevant to our smaller scales content. For this reason, we are offering a very limited number of affordable advertising slots in each issue.

· Do YOU sell smaller scale miniatures or related accessories? · Are you a professional artisan producing smaller scale creations?

Then why not advertise your smaller scale miniature business to our readers?

So, if you would like to advertise in a future issue of

PETITE PROPERTIES Magazine,

why not contact us & find out more about our advertising opportunities in this exciting new miniatures magazine!

Contact us & find out more about our exclusive advertising opportunities!

ppmag@petitepropertiesltd.com

a

HOME miniature in

Sue cambridge

1:144 & 1:48 versions of Sue’s home...

As a kit designer, it is always lovely to hear that a kit has brought enjoyment and fun to our customers. However, I particularly love to see my designs ‘kit bashed’ to create new and exciting adaptations. So I was very interested when Sue shared on our PP Facebook Forum that she had adapted a design to recreate her own home in miniature… and what a brilliant and personal quarter scale project it turned out to be!

I

am lucky enough to live in a “dollshouse”. The House is Georgian, we believe over 300 years old and is an ex-vicarage. It had a Victorian makeover, to give it the bay window and tiled hall floor and has had further modern renovations. We have lived here over 20 years and it was and is, my dream home. I have loved dolls houses all my life, getting my first adult house in the early 1990s. This was an extension of the hobby!

I knew as soon as I saw Petite Properties’ Bay Tree Manor that it was ‘my house’, but I spent some time

wondering how to modify it. I decided to only recreate the front of the house, which is the traditional Georgian era part. The back of the house has a couple of extensions for the kitchen, irregular windows and another bay window which would have needed to be scratch built; which I decided was too difficult! The back half is mostly bathroom, kitchen and stairs which are not very interesting to model.

(However, I may consider doing it in the future.) I also decided to keep the two dormer windows rather than try to make the actual four and to miss out a couple of windows at the side of the house, although

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PETITE PROPERTIES | 63

Kit bash corner I added curtains to the inside.

I had already made a number of PP kits, including October Cottage, which is where I got the idea for the bay window from, so I knew I could make it work.

It did not need any special tools but I did need to add additional walls to make the hall and en suite bathroom. Most of the changes to the kit were simplifications, like leaving off the quoin stones and banding and trimming the window surrounds. A friend cut the front panel to accommodate the bay window from October Cottage, as I don’t have any woodwork tools. I added a roof to that and also added two further internal walls which my friend also cut for me from MDF. The house build was fairly straight forward, but detailing and furnishing it took ages. I wanted the model to be accurate so the detailing of pictures, ornaments and contents of bookshelves took a lot of planning. I made representations of wall shelves to reduce the space taken up, before I stuck the house together (see picture). I created wallpaper after finding the originals on the internet. I took photos of all my pictures and shrank them down. I also photographed the tiled floor and the access at the back of the hall, which you can’t see, but I know is there. Luckily, I found that many of PP’s furniture kits were similar to my actual furniture, so I was also able to furnish it, pretty much as it is.

Sue’s beautiful home

“

The hardest thing was making a wheeled desk chair from the PP wingback chair kit as I had to add wire legs.

It took me weeks!

Sue.

”

When you furnish an imaginary dolls house, you tend to put all the furniture at the back of the rooms so that it is displayed well. However a real house has furniture all the way round the room, so it doesn’t display as well; So I had to adapt to this somewhat.

The interior...

Sue’s full size bedroom...

...and her quarter scale replica

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Kit bash korner My model turned out better than I hoped and will act as a permanent reminder after we have moved on.

But as we love the house, I don’t know when that will be. For now the model is on display in our dining room, along with a 1:144th scale version (see page 63).

I recently showed them at a charity coffee morning and the two sisters who grew up in the house in the 1960s saw them and were thrilled!

New projects...

I am currently working on a representation of the cottage and grocer’s shop that my Mum grew up in, using your 1:24th Washtub Cottage as the base. T his is taking longer due to being able to find the right scale and era content for the shop. I might yet work out how to make the back half of my house!

Above: PP’s Bay Tree Manor (1:48)...

Sue

Above: Sue’s replica home (1:48)...

This summer we are opening our doors!

Visit our website: www.petite-properties.com for our full programme of workshops & open days! www.petite-properties.com

PETITE PROPERTIES | 65

project 1:48 & 1:24

Shower Cubicle

project

Bekki fileccia

You often see baths in dolls house bathrooms, but showers are not as common. But if you are short on space in your miniature scene, a walk-in shower, or a shower cubicle, can be a realistic alternative to a bath (and more energy efficient!)

Bekki

This tutorial will help you to create a basic standalone shower cubicle which you can adapt to fit into any space.

(1:24th measurements are shown in brackets in the instructions)

Materials 1mm thick white card/card mount Thin card 2 jewellery headpins: 35mm long Your choice of wall covering (tiled paper, sticky back plastic, wallpaper sample) Acetate (or piece of clear packaging) Silver marker pen *2mm jewellery crimp bead or spacer bead *Small nail art beads/border stickers (*Optional)

4 pieces 1 Cut from your card

mount and 1 piece of acetate using the measurements on the photo.

(1:24th measurements in brackets)

2 Colour one of the tall edges on the two side walls with the silver marker pen.

one side of the back and one 3 Cover side of the two side walls with your chosen wall covering (I have used a marble effect sticky back plastic).

tools Glue (preferably in fine applicator bottle) Craft knife/scissors Round nose pliers Wire cutters Needle Hole punch (1:24th version only)

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project 1:48 & 1:24

4 Apply glue to

5 Apply glue to the sides of

the back edge of the shower tray and stick the back piece to the tray.

Support at a right angle until glue dries.

the back wall and sides of the tray and stick on the two sidewalls, ensuring the silver coloured edge is facing the front. Allow glue to dry.

Take one of the 6jewellery pins and using

the other 7 Bend jewellery pin into a

the wire cutters, cut the head of the pin off and also cut a 10mm (20mm) length. Stick the pin head into the shower tray to resemble a plug. The other piece will be your door handle.

shower head shape as shown in photo approximately 5mm (10mm) in. If making in 1:24th use the hole punch to make a circle from thin card, colour this with the silver marker pen and stick to the flat head of the pin to create a larger shower head.

8

9

Using the needle, make a hole on the back wall approx 5mm (10mm) from the top. Apply glue into the hole, thread the spacer bead (if using) on to the shower head and push the pin through the hole in the wall. Allow to dry and then cut off the excess wire at the back of the cubicle.

Variations If you want a walk-in shower, use the internal walls of your house structure instead of the back and one of the side panels. Use the acetate as the ‘glass’ side wall with an open front.

Make a control panel by drawing two silver dots with the marker pen onto a 4mm (8mm) square piece of thin card (or use small beads or stickers) and stick into cubicle.

Finally, apply glue to the front 3 edges of the cubicle and s ck on the acetate door. S ck on the door handle you made in step 7 to whichever side you prefer.

Bekki says..

The outside walls of your cubicle can be left as they are, or you could cover with the same wall covering as the rest of your room

Change the shape of the shower head pin to make a riser bar shower or add border stickers to make a thicker door frame.

Experiment using different wall coverings – tiles, marble effect papers

Project & Photos By Bekki Fileccia Facebook: www.facebook.com/IndianSkye Instagram: www.instagram.com/indianskye.miniatures Ebay: www.ebay.co.uk/usr/indianskye

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Creative spaces

creative

Spaces A room of one's own

Esther horner

N

The plaque above the door is a reminder to my long suffering husband...

ow, I am aware that when the late, great Virginia Woolf wrote ‘A Room of One’s Own’ she may not have expected it to be applied to mini-making. However, one of the points she made in her book was, that to be creative, whether it may be writing ground breaking literature or making tiny end tables, we need our own space. Traditionally, men have been more likely to have their own space in the family home: the man shed; the allotment; the loft; the garage, whereas women’s spaces have often been shared spaces (don’t get grumpy folks, I know this is a generalisation). To be honest, it never bothered me and wasn’t something I really thought about, but it’s hard to miss something when you’ve never really had it.

I’ve collected and loved small things pretty much my whole life. When I begged my Dad for a Caroline’s Dolls House in the 80s, he responded by offering to make me one. We made it together, in his shed, out of wood we had scavenged in the tip. We stole wallpaper samples from Texas Homestore to decorate it (the excitement a small child exhibited towards wallpaper samples probably baffled the ladies who cut them for us). When finished, the house was approximately 1:16th scale and far from perfect but it was made with love and was my prized possession.

Years later, I bought a 1:12th scale shop from Dolls House Emporium. It took me years to build decorate but then I hit a snag… I had two large dollhouses and no more room so, my hobby stalled; until I found Bea… and got divorced (I’d like to make it absolutely clear that these happenings were unrelated 😊).

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Creative spaces

Bea was building 1:24th scale houses at the time and I loved looking at her work, envious of the creations that, even though they were smaller and I didn’t have a husband cluttering up my space, as a single mother I now couldn’t afford. Then, Bea and Co launched the 1:48th kit and book series… affordable and space saving. Mulberry House was my first effort and you all will know the joy making it gave me… I was in mini heaven. I saved up and started working my way through the series. With 1:48th scale, all I needed was a shelf to store several houses. I was back to scavenging, like me and my Dad used to do all those years ago. I collected coffee stirrers, jewellery findings from charity shop bracelets and other treasures in the trash. I worked slowly and steadily when I had time (I was a single Mum doing an Open University Degree and working part-time so it was limited) but then disaster stuck, I remarried. Just kidding, I love my husband dearly, but my space became a shared space and once again all my supplies were squirreled away and I only unpacked them during holidays and lockdowns and my mini making fun was significantly slowed.

easier to ask forgiveness than get permission’ (he was a vicar and I’m not sure this was fully conversant with Christian doctrine, but there you go 😊), so I just cracked on and it took my husband a few weeks to figure out what I was up to.

The flowerpots and garden tools were cleared out of the shed and new plastic storage box purchased. I bought storage boxes for my supplies (with fastening lids to keep everything dry and my label maker to keep everything organised) and make-up pots from pound shops for my brushes and tools. Pieces of furniture went mysteriously missing from the house, a stool, a bookcase and a display cabinet. Tools that had found their way into my husband’s workshop were reclaimed. Him indoors eventually spotted what I was up to when an electrician came round to put an LED light strip and sockets in the shed (he knew better than to thwart my efforts though (don’t feel sorry for him, he has the garage and the spare bedroom for his hobbies).

“

I had a vision of my own space where I could have all my tools about me, leave things out to dry and have peace and quiet away from the hustle and bustle of a very busy life.

Esther.

“

Esther at her work station

Fast-forward to October 2023 and one day after having to pack up all my tools and minis again after a -now rare- mini-making session…I was browsing on Pinterest and saw a ‘she-shed’. I had a vision of my own space where I could have all my tools about me, leave things out to dry and have peace and quiet away from the hustle and bustle of a very busy life.

So, struck with inspiration I shanghaied the potting shed. An old friend once told me that ‘sometimes it’s

Esther keeps tools she uses most often on her worktop www.petite-properties.com

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Creative spaces Once electricity was in I added a little toaster oven to bake my fimo and a bluetooth speaker for entertainment. It wasn’t long before my she-shed was ready and I was in there making minis! The shed isn’t currently insulated, though I did try and stop some of the drafts, but the cold weather did not stop me and I worked in there throughout the winter, (I did invest in an oil filled radiator and fingerless gloves). After a stressful day at work I’ll sneak out there with a coffee and work on my latest project. I put an audio book on and enjoy the view of my garden... it’s bliss.

Esther’s She-shed

The majority of storage is on the Ikea shelves in Really Useful Boxes.

To put into perspective how much of an impact having my own creative space has had on my mini-making… between 2015 and 2023, I built and decorated just five 1:48th scale houses. Since October 2023 (at time of writing that’s 9 months ago) I have built seven more! Now, as I said, I’d never worried about not having a room of my own… like I never worried about having a video player or microwave and later- a car, dishwasher, or varifocals) but now I wouldn’t be without it and, I finally understand what good old Virginia was on about.

Esther Facebook: Esther LH Instagram: festher.lh https://quarterscalecreations101.blogspot.com/ The beauty of a potting shed…the view!

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Patty lindsey

Printed wallpaper English Ivy

1944 Vintage Design

Top: 1:48th Wallpaper Right: 1:144th Wallpaper

English Ivy Wallpapers

by Patty Lindsey This wallpaper was restored and reproduced from a 1944 sample book that was found in a damp basement in Michigan. In 1944, the original wallpaper cost about 40 cents for a double roll and would wallpaper an entire small room for $3.68US and that included the ceiling!

Patty lindsey

Reproducing these vintage patterns in miniature is bringing a piece of history back to life that we can display in our little houses and say, "This was an actual wallpaper pattern that people used on their walls many years ago."

Patty

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Patty lindsey Below: 1:24th Wallpaper

By Patty Lindsey MinikinMall.com ©2025 All Rights Reserved This wallpaper must not be reproduced in anyway.

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Micro magic

Micro

Magic Tiny miniatures, with a HUGE following!

The origins of 1:144th scale are firmly rooted in 1:12 and although the latter is the scale ‘we don’t mention’ in this publication; 1:144 represents a 1:12 miniature, within a 1:12th scale setting. However, as we are smaller scale focused publication that is where I am going to finish the association and all mentions of the BIG scale. 1:144 or ‘micro scale’ as it is also commonly known, is an incredibly popular area of the smaller scale world and loved in its own right by smaller scale miniaturists all around the world.

When working in any of the smaller scales that we feature in this publication, ‘illusion’ is really the name of the game and unsurprisingly the smaller the miniature, the more tricks on the eye are needed to replicate the full size world. Working in micro scale is certainly no exception. There’s also no getting away from the elephant in the room, this scale IS pretty fiddly to work in and there is definitely an overwhelming need to use tweezers for almost everything.

But, like any other scale, once you

“

Less space needed, but no less fun to create: micro scale really is a ‘win win’ scale!

Bea.

“

A

s miniaturists, by our very nature we all like tiny things. But as smaller scale miniaturists, we really do relish going that bit smaller still. So when it comes to micro miniatures; what’s not to love!

get your eye in and you become accustomed to the size you are working in; micro scale doesn’t feel quite so daunting and can be a whole load of fun!

Short of space? …No problem.

Time and time again, I hear from miniaturists all over the world that they are running out of space and I believe that this is one of the core reasons why the smaller scales have seen such a huge explosion in popularity over the last couple of decades. However, of all the smaller scales, 1:144 often appears to be the least accurately represented. By that, I mean 1:144 miniatures which accurately adhere to the scale. Now before readers get all het up about that statement and I start getting angry emails, let me first elaborate by taking a look closer at the maths…

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Micro magic The maths bit...

The maths behind 1:144 scale is: 1ft in real life = 2.2mm in the dolls house world.

This in turn means that just 1mm represents (approx) 6 inches!

So putting the scale into context, this means that a full size house’s window joinery bar which is 2cms, would resize to be 0.2mm in micro scale. Obviously, something so incredibly fine simply cannot be ‘cut out’ using a laser cutter or similar cutting technology.

So, looking at this specific aspect more closely, elements like window bars and the thickness of the construction materials which are used to create micro furniture etc, really need to be carefully assessed if 1:144th items are to stand up to closer inspection. Therefore it is worth bearing in mind that as 1mm represents just under SIX whole inches, so when choosing construction materials to create realistic and accurate 1:144th scale miniatures; thinner and finer really is better!

Above: Rue Des Quatre Saisons & Display Base in 1:144

Right: Le Manoir Des Saisons & Topiary Base 1:144

Sticking to the maths…

· But despite saying that, does it matter? · Does sticking to the precise maths of 1:144 scale matter? · Perhaps that is a subject to return to in the future?

There are many miniaturists that I have spoken to who have told me; if it looks ok, then I’m happy with it. But this approach can lead to issues, as if one item that is true to scale is placed next to something that isn’t a whole setting or scene can be ruined!

Over the years, I have looked at many different micro creations, some seem spot on with their accuracy to scale and others lean more towards being 1:76th scale in size! (1ft = 4mm) - in simple terms, way too big!

“

These tiny dolls houses are such fun to build and as long as you have a relatively steady hand and some trusty tweezers, they are also very easy to put together too.

Bea.

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”

PP’s St. Thomas’ Church in N gauge - 1:148

Micro magic The micro future is bright…

Once again, as modern technology moves forward, so the smaller scale world continues to grow and open up. 3D printing has certainly brought a huge boost to the smaller scales, with 1:144th scale miniatures particularly benefitting from the new possibilities and capabilities of technology. Accurate and affordable furniture with a stunning level of detail is now being printed around the world and architectural details that were once limited, are now more readily available online.

Lighting technology has also developed to allow for even more effective and true to scale lighting solutions. Nano LEDs have replaced clunky out of scale lighting and with technology moving forward at such a pace, I am sure even more lighting opportunities will be on the way in the future.

Of course I couldn’t write about this scale, without also mentioning the inevitable ‘cross over’ with N gauge from the model railway world. N gauge railway layouts work to 1:148, which is very close to the dolls house world’s micro scale. This inevitably opens the door to a whole pre-existing world of 1:148 accessories and figures that are already widely available within the model railway world.

Modelling cousins...

For the last decade, PP has also been hard at work in the fascinating world of model railways and as such we already offer a wide range of N Gauge building kits. Over recent years, these 1:148 building kits have been eagerly discovered and enjoyed by many of our ‘micro’ dolls house customers too! So, using this magazine as a global platform, in future issues we are keen to

Above: Station Road Semi - 1:148

Another maths bit...

The maths behind 1:144 scale is: 1ft = 2.2mm The maths behind 1:148 scale is: 1ft = 2mm further explore the crossover and share some of the stunning N Gauge layouts and dioramas we have enjoyed and drooled over at railway exhibitions all over the UK.

Put simply, we want to celebrate all aspects of both of these popular and tiny scales... But we can’t champion either of them without your support.

Above: Le Petit Palais (undecorated) - 1:144

So if you have a micro creation or N gauge layout that you would like to share with readers, or if you are a designer or manufacturer of micro miniatures; please do get in touch as we would love to showcase and share your work! Or if you just want to share your answers, to our questions, drop us an email at:

ppmag@petitepropertiesltd.com Below: A PP street scene in - 1:148

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John wood

the

ABANDONED

house

John wood

John’s quarter scale scene...

M

y interest in miniatures can be blamed entirely on my wife. Her childhood enthusiasm for miniatures stayed with her and evolved from 1:12th scale to 1:24th, and eventually to 1:48th. It was her regular requests for help with making, or to actually make, Petite Properties’ kits that made me realise how much I enjoyed making them. It was then a small step to obtain some of my own so that I was free to finish them as I wished. So, for about the past 5 years I have completed 25 houses of 1:48th scale, and 8 of N gauge.

My pleasure comes from designing the outside of the house and its landscape. Though I paint the interior and cover the floors with floorboards or paving, I have little interest in providing furniture. The only rooms in which there will be a small amount of

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furniture are the ones that are lit. I quite like looking through the windows of a house with its lights on and seeing furniture. It gives the impression of it being lived in.

It was not planned that I should have the Marshalswick House to complete as a stand-alone. It came as part of Memory Lane. When I used Memory Lane to create a harbour, I felt that Marshalswick House was a little large for the project, so it was omitted. Consequently, I was left with a house and the problem of deciding how to complete it. I did not want it to be another “nice pleasant to look at” house. I need my houses to show some character or a story. It was a long time before I came up with the idea of making it “old”, but then that developed into making it abandoned. (Though when you see the dog

John wood

A bit of back story…

The story of the house is that, at one time, it would have been rather grand. So, the brickwork needed to be smart before “dirtying” it. I also wanted it elevated above street level, due to once having status, with some grand gates, which now needed to be rusty. I decided, however, that the surrounding wall would be less formal, and the grounds needed to be neglected and untidy.

The base is made of pieces of polystyrene with a gradient created by using plaster bandage (a most useful product for creating bases). I used Google to find images of abandoned houses, which helped to some extent – even though the images all seemed to be American. I decided not to include lights in the house. Since the electric had been cut off, there was little point. The previous owners had also taken the furniture with them so there was no need for furniture.

Creative space…

I am fortunate to have a workroom in which I can make and display the houses. My pleasure, however, comes from the making, decorating, and landscaping of the houses,

rather than their display.

However, my 10-year-old granddaughter likes the display sufficiently enough to request one for her birthday.

So, I am about to enjoy helping her complete Plum Pudding Cottages.

My shelf space is being eaten up by 2 versions of Cobblestone Snicket, a harbour and a variety of other buildings. I am currently without a house to build, but not until I have decided how I will complete a specific house, with the finished product in mind, will I obtain it – though I can guarantee, once chosen, there will be space for its display!

John

“

My pleasure, however, comes from the making, decorating, and landscaping of the houses, rather than their display.

John.

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“

by the gates it is up to the viewer to decide whether the word ‘abandoned’ refers to the house or the dog, which is looking into the distance longing for the return of its owners!).

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Exterior finish project - 1:48

Funky FOAM EXTERIOR FINISH Quarter Scale I will start by sharing a little secret. PP’s quarter scale Lost Cabin did in fact nearly get lost from our autumn Miniatura display. Those of you who know the PP team, know that we always play to the whistle.

We have a habit of working right up to a deadline…

Indeed my own personal mantra seems to be ‘There’s nothing more productive than the last minute!’ and our little cabin nearly became a victim of my overzealous planning.

The master models of the cabin and its woodland base were coming along well, but I found that I was fast running out of time. Quite simply; I needed to speed up! Over a coffee break I realised that if my wooded diorama stood any chance in making it to the Miniatura show last autumn, I needed to come up with a way of creating a ‘log wall’ effect; quickly!

With my original (and time consuming) exterior finish abandoned, I began rummaging through my work room hoping to find a simple solution and an alternative medium. Thankfully, it didn’t take long for inspiration to strike and for me to emerge (somewhat triumphantly) from my ‘big’ cupboard with the ideal medium in my hand; Funky Foam!

Inexpensive and super easy to cut, funky foam is a versatile craft material that works really well in the smaller scale world. Also known as EVA foam, it is normally sold in multi-coloured packs, in various size sheets (A4, A3 – UK). Often aimed at younger crafters, you can readily find ‘funky foam’ available

“

Nothing makes a person more productive than the last minute.

John Ciardi.

”

in the children’s section of art or craft stores. It has myriad uses and as you will see on page 30, I have also used 2mm thick funky foam to create the faux leather finish on the exterior of my Cottage Book Box. So if you would like to create a super easy and super quick log finish to your cabin, grab some funky foam and let’s get started!

materials

tools

Funky foam Or EVA foam x1 A4 sheet (21cm x 29.7cm x 2mm thick) Pen or pencil White soft pastel pencil UHU Adhesive

Craft knife or scalpel Metal ruler (with finger guard) Clear plastic ruler (6” or 15cm) Cutting mat Scissors Small paint brush Flat bristle brush

Acrylic Paint Black acrylic paint (matt) Medium brown acrylic paint (matt)

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Exterior finish project - 1:48

1 I used grey

2 To create the cladding or log panels, I used a

funky foam to clad my cabin, as it was a neutral base colour to paint over. I used the front, back and side elevations of my kit as templates and drew around them in pen. Using a craft knife and ruler, carefully and precisely, cut out the marked shapes and window apertures.

sharp pencil and a small clear plastic ruler to make the horizontal lines into the funky foam.

By using a clear ruler, it is easer to ensure that your lines to not begin to slope as you can see through the ruler itself

3

4 Paint the exterior with two coats

Once the cabin is constructed, stick the pre-cut foam sections into position onto each of the four elevations of the cabin.

Allow the adhesive to dry completely.

of black acrylic paint. (Leave to dry between each coat of paint). Using a flat, dry, bristle brush, apply tiny amounts of medium brown paint; using side to side brush strokes along the length of the pre-scored panels.

Leave to dry.

5

To bring the log cladding to life, simply re-draw over the previously scored horizontal lines using a white soft pastel pencil. This highlights the horizontal lines and creates simple, quick and effective log cladding effect.

Once you have completed each elevation of your cabin, the funky foam can then be weathered (if required) using some green eye shadow.

Of course you could apply vertical lines to the foam instead to create a different style of cladding. Alternatively, you could also apply different colours, to create different styles.

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Iona barker

Minis

&

Mental Health Iona barker

Back in 2020, the world stopped. The pandemic brought with it lockdown after lockdown and everyone’s mental health was affected in some way or another. However, I think that it was during this very difficult time, that we all began to realise that our hobbies are so vital to our mental health and happiness. I personally believe that our hobbies are our mental super power.

Confined within our homes, our time spent in the miniature world was all the more important to our mental health than ever before. Face to face dolls house and model railway clubs, together with shows and exhibitions stopped overnight. But creativity found a way, and through technology we continued to share our hobbies and interests with one another; using the internet and Zoom meetings!

Of course the pandemic restrictions are happily now over, but I think the experience of them really highlighted the importance of our ‘crafting hours’ and reminded us all what a vital part of our happiness and well-being our hobbies are. For this reason, I am delighted to have Iona join our ever expanding magazine team. A keen miniaturist herself, Iona is going to explore the connection between our love of the miniature world and our mental health. Bea.

I

got into miniatures in the 90s when it was at its most popular. I was obsessed with “The Borrowers” on British TV, a show about a tiny family who “borrowed” items to make up their homes and adventures, based on a children’s book by Mary Norton. I was always cutting up shoe boxes and trying to make tiny furniture with my small hands! My dad was a building contractor and thought he’d give making smaller houses a go. He purchased a copy of “Making Dolls Houses in 1:12th” scale by Brian Nickolls and made me the cover house for my 10th birthday. It was slightly different looking to the one

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on the cover however; as he made this one look like a traditional Scottish cottage with white exterior and black trim round the windows. He constructed it in my granny’s garage and I remember seeing this big shape hidden under a sheet for months. I wish I’d taken photos of it when it was done. I loved reading the book it was made from too. I still have a copy and have often thought of transferring the builds to smaller scales. I kept my house, and its refurbishment is on my miniatures to-do list (we all have that never-ending list, don’t we!). My house was my prized possession and the dolls from it that I

Iona barker purchased in the shop of Lincoln Cathedral on a family holiday went everywhere with me. They were my very own “Borrowers”. The house was a hodgepodge of Sylvanian Families furniture, the cheaper standard dolls house furniture of the day, and my feeble attempts at hand-made furniture and furnishings. Around 10 years ago I rescued the house from my dad’s attic and attempted to redecorate it. I can definitely say my skills have improved even since then. I believe it’s working in the smaller scales that have really helped hone my skill. I also purchased myself a 3d printer last Christmas which has been very fun to play with! I highly recommend the website Thingiverse.com for open-source, Creative Commons, and free dolls house printables for either resin or x-y axis printers.

During the lockdowns I was assessed then diagnosed with ADHD at age 38. I’ve also since self-diagnosed with autism too, as I tick many of the boxes, and the two can often show up together. Many men and women my age and older finally had the chance to stop (especially those of us who used work and keeping busy as a coping mechanism), which meant they had the opportunity to address health issues that had previously gone unnoticed. The signs of ADHD and autism were always there with me, but the symptoms can be much harder to spot in girls than with boys.

My biggest lesson in these last few years is that if I believe I’ll be happy when I do the thing/achieve the goal then I’ll be constantly chasing the happiness and feel like it’s just out of reach. The happiness is actually in my now moment as I’m doing the task. It’s a good reminder to stop every so often and allow myself to really feel the joyful and fun feelings that come with hobbies such as this.

I don’t know about you, but I find that I’m my happiest when I’m sitting down and building or creating something. The whole world stops, and time disappears. This is thanks to dopamine. Yes okay, sitting back and viewing the finished product feels bloomin’ good too, but my happy place is in the making. My partner and I share a “studio”-it’s really our spare bedroom. He’s an American voice-over artist and actor (you will have seen and heard him on TV and adverts no doubt), so half the room is his recording studio and half of it is my miniatures craft room. Much to his dismay sometimes I’ll shout out “I LOVE THIS SO MUCH!” Mid way through a make!

Making miniatures has been a lifeline for me, as it helps me escape an overwhelming and over stimulating world and find my peace again. Another great thing about minis, especially smaller scale is how rewarding it is. Our bodies, especially for neurodivergent people (people with adhd, add, autism, Tourette’s, OCD, and Asberger’s for example) may have challenges getting and maintaining dopamine levels. Dopamine is one of four chemicals made in the body, the others being serotonin, oxytocin, and endorphins. There’s a popular misconception that dopamine is the reward chemical, but actually dopamine is in constant pursuit of reward, levelling off when we’ve achieved our goal.

This is why high-reward activities such as smaller scale miniatures can be addictive! (And why we can be addicted to other things that aren’t beneficial for us).

One of Iona’s quarter scale dolls houses www.petite-properties.com

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Iona barker Since the pandemic our hobby got a whole new resurgence, and people who were fans of the 1:12 and half scale are being introduced to a new world of quarter and micro scale. Before 2020 I’d been running two businesses simultaneously for almost 15 yearsmy creative therapy business called Say It Ain’t Sew and working as a freelance seamstress in the fashion industry. When everything ground to a halt all of a sudden I had time on my hands that I’d never had before. My creative therapy classes stopped, and all my fashion gigs were cancelled. At the time I was the head seamstress for touring music shows coming into Scotland. Luckily I was put on a furlough scheme from a local college I’d been doing my creative therapy with a few months before everything shut down. This gave me freedom to play with my miniatures. I know many others weren’t as lucky as I was however, so after a few months off, (being self-employed with two businesses, I knew very little of time off previously!), I set up another business and updated my therapy training to include life coaching, selfconfidence coaching, counselling for chronic stress, treating complex post-traumatic stress disorder, treating anxiety in autism and ADHD, and holistic detox & health coaching. I decided to set down my creative therapy kit and solely focus on one on one sessions to help people through potentially the most challenging times of their lives. Last year in 2023 I said goodbye to my seamstress career, as my new coaching and counselling business was more rewarding than I ever dreamed of.

My plan is to write a regular feature for this magazine on mental and emotional health, miniatures, and I’m very excited to be part of such a fabulous magazine and community.

My new paperback book called Upgrade Your SelfConfidence by Iona Barker is available on Amazon, and you can find me on Instagram and TikTok as @iona_barker_ where I post regular uplifting content.

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A peek at tiny bathroom made by Iona

Spotlight on

spotlight

On

Here in PPHQ, we have always been amazed how one kit design can be transformed to look totally different to the next, when it is in the hands of different miniaturists. So, we thought it would be fun to explore this concept further in this regular feature and turn the spot light onto one design and see just what our customers have created with it?

D

espite our official business strap line being “Authentic Architecture In Miniature…” from time to time it is always fun to tear up the architectural rule book and design pure fantasy dwellings and there are no prizes for guessing that Robin’s Nest, is an imaginary design straight out of a magical world!

Like so many of my enchanted designs, Robin’s Nest began life as a doodle in the margin of a notebook and that is where it stayed until we were commissioned to create subscription gifts for Dolls House & Miniature Scene Magazine. Back in 2016, Warners (the publishers of DHMS) required two giveaway 1:48 kits as part of their annual subscription promotion. Overall weight and size was an important consideration, as one kit was to be sent out to their UK customers and the other to those overseas.

robin's nest As a subscription offer, Robin’s Nest was an instant hit with DHMS readers and to this day it remains an ever popular and much loved little kit within our range. It may be one of our smallest quarter scale houses, but it has a huge character all of its own and we are delighted to be able to turn our ‘spotlight’ onto this enchanted design. In this issue we find out how three smaller scale miniaturists brought this little whimsical tiny cottage to life…

Robin’s Nest Undecorated

Due to the size and weight restrictions of Warner’s design brief, the little doodle in the margin of my notebook was a perfect fit. Made from a folded card structure, the light weight design featured a whimsical interior and heavily sloped roof.

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Spotlight on Introducing:

Sylvia Warner

H

ow long have I been making miniatures? Well that goes back to before Petite Properties was still only a twinkle in Bea’s eye. I started visiting Fairs back in the day when there were lots of small local fairs. To begin with I just looked and was in awe of all the tiny things. After a while I decided I would like to have a house myself and treated myself to a 1:12th scale house, but somehow all I did was buy lots of accessories and never did anything with the house.

I then discovered Tickhill Workshops and one of the tutors was Penny Thomson – that was it my love of smaller scales began with 1:24th room boxes I made on these courses. My first Petite Property was one of Bea’s ready built and decorated 1:24 houses. Now I build kits in 1:48, 1:76, 1:144 and 1:148.

I fell in love with the Robin’s Nest kit the moment I set eyes on it. I particularly like buildings with an open back so you can easily show off the ideas inside and I had a stump of wood just waiting for a children’s tree house. I bought a 3D printed railway set and put it on a fixed board inside the Tree House. I added drawings and paintings, board games and of course a dolls house and teddy bears picnic. I wanted the tree house to be a place for children, where no adults were allowed.

“

Most of my planning is done when I am in bed before drifting off to sleep...

Far better than counting sheep!

Sylvia.

”

It was on the edge of our estate and they could build camps and climb trees – not quite a tree house but definitely their own.

Robin’s Nest is so adaptable that when I had an idea to do a Magician’s diorama it was the building I went for straight away. Someone on Petite Properties Modelling Community put up a scene with a house on a riverbank. She kindly said I could use her idea for my base. So with a few metal characters and a boat

But oh how I wish I had kept a note of where I obtained some of the items I used for the tree house; particularly the children!

When building the tree house, I was reminded of when we moved from London to St Neots back in the 70’s. My girls were small and they loved being able to go with friends to an old apple orchard (not having been allowed out on their own in London).

from Jane Harrop the magician’s scene was created. I also treated myself to a cheap tea strainer static grass applicator and I have improved my skills using it over the years.

I am now at the planning stage for my third Robin’s nest. This one is going to be an apothecary shop using Das for the pavement and road and I want to include either the delivery bike or the van – not quite sure which yet or maybe both if there is room.

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Spotlight on

“ Introducing:

I

Barbara Foard

chose to build Robins Nest, as I loved its quirky shape. I also liked that it had a small footprint and I was curious to see what I could get into it. I have to be quite honest and say that this build and most of my Petite Properties builds are very much inspired by how Bea has finished the kits; the only input I usually have is the interior and the landscaping!

Making my base: · When it was dry, I painted it with 2 coats of Petite Properties’ Mucky Paint to simulate earth. I then situated the house and drew around it and also drew on the paths too. · The paths were then painted with Petite Properties’ Warm Stone. · I then added petite properties’ Fine Stone Chips again with Weldbond and before the glue was dry, I also sprinkled fine sand over that. · Then I glued on the grass which was Petite Properties’ heather mix and Jarvis static hairy grass. Trees and fencing were then added, as was a bench seat and a chopped down tree log and axe from Stewart House Creations. · Finally, the whole lot was covered in fine glitter to simulate frost and sealed with a spray matte sealer.

Generally, I don't spend too long in the planning stage as I have an idea of how I want it to look. But most times it comes out completely different than I envisaged... but that's ok! I really enjoy the journey with each of my builds and I'm always a little sad when they are completed.

The base I used for my Robin’s Nest was Petite Properties’ Simple Base. I first sealed the base with a coat of weldbond (my favourite glue), then I added Spakfilla to add some land variations.

(Spakfilla is like Polyfilla/ interior decorators filler, for readers in the UK – Bea)

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Spotlight on Sometimes I have a story for my builds, but in this case I didn't. However, I could just imagine how wonderful it would be to have a little spot in the woods just like this, to stay in all nice and cosy for the weekend.

“

This is not my first build... in fact I have now built 32 properties!!!!

Barbara.

”

Filling the cottage...

I love to work in 1:48th scale as I find you can get so much detail into this scale, especially with the 3d printed items that are coming onto the market. For this project I didn't use too much store bought furniture, as due to the angle of the walls I made a lot of the furniture from scratch; using mount board and thin card. Most of the accessories are beads and sequins (dishes in sink). The sink itself is part of a Petite Properties’ kit and so are the two chairs and the chest in the bedroom. The small box and 2 bottles are 3d printed and I got them from Just Quarters.

Britta A selection of Barbara’s completed quarter scale furniture!

The bed was a plastic one that I bought from a fair many moons ago. (I’m unsure of the manufacturer).

I dressed it using a second hand men’s tie (I use ties a lot as the print on them is tiny enough for small scales). The bedside was one out of the cheap brown furniture packs that is very common from China.

I lightly sanded it and repainted it to match the other furniture.

I am very pleased with this build, especially the angled furniture I had to make. I like to challenge myself with every new project and this one gave me that and I love how atmospheric it feels too.

Barbara Left: The inside of Barbara’s cottage is packed with character!

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Spotlight on Introducing:

Britta Harms

I

Britta lives in the south of Sweden.

have always been interested in miniatures and as a child I had a large handmade dolls house. Each Christmas it was given to me as a present and then in spring it was put away; until the next year. So I always knew what I was going to get for Christmas, but I didn’t mind as it was a present that I looked forward to every year!

When I became an adult I never thought that I could do miniatures. Then in 2001, I took a trip to Germany and discovered there a magazine all about miniatures. I was so excited and happy, as it opened a brand new world to me! When internet came, I was able to find miniature groups all over the world; I couldn’t believe that there were so many people with the same interest as me!! I was hooked!

I loved to make miniatures from everyday objects and always carefully checked anything small, before throwing them away... just in case I could create something with them. Over time I began collecting items to use, but I was so afraid of making a mistake I often didn’t get started. However, last year I decided to throw away the fear and began to start work on all the kits and projects I had collected – I now have a very long ‘to do’ list!

When I began working on miniatures, I started with something in 1:12th scale, but as I live in a small

apartment, I have no hobby room and no place for bigger projects, so I have found that working in the small scales suits me better. I do like 1:24th as I find that it is easier on my eyes and fingers, however I do mostly now work in 1:48. I particularly love small houses, cottages and a little from the fantasy world too. I knew Robins nest was just perfect for me, as soon as I saw it.

When I was working on my Robin’s Nest I wanted the door to be open; to welcome anyone who happened to wander up the little path. I also love flowers, so of course I also just had to create a little garden around the cottage.

“The stove and the rocking chair are from PP, but the rest I made myself...”

Britta.

I have collected several kits, but I still have many that I have not yet done. When I do work on them I like it because I can sit at my table and easily do things with paper, cardboard and balsa wood.

Another one of my favourite kits was Grandpa’s Hideaway, as I like to be surrounded by nature, even in the miniature world!

Britta In Issue 4 we put our shabby chic La Maison De Ville (1:48) in the spotlight and take a closer look at how three talented miniaturists have brought it to life! www.petite-properties.com

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furniture project - 1:24 (& 1:48)

Make BED the

Furniture project half Scale If you have worked in 1:12th scale, you will find that full size items can often be successfully reproduced in miniature, using the same medium that they are made in full scale. So for example, wooden furniture can be made in 1:12th scale also using wood.

However, when you begin to work in the smaller scales, it is not always practical or indeed possible to use the same material as the life size object… and this is how I feel about fabric! Material like cotton actually has such a large weave that often it simply doesn’t work when scaled down. In general fabric itself doesn’t behave, fold or hang in ways that accurately mirror full scale items.

When working in the smaller scales, material can (more often than not) be just too thick or stiff. So if fabric is not giving you the required look you are after when it comes to smaller scale bedding – what will?

After much experimentation, I found that super realistic smaller scale bedding can be easily and quickly replicated, using nothing more technical than tissue paper, a wet wipe and a bit of air dry clay.

Back in 2009 I wrote a project book, ‘Country Bedrooms’ which included this technique in 1:24.

However, since then, I have also made realistic bedding in 1:48 using exactly the same techniques too!

Le : 1:48 bed...

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This project is shown in 1:24th, but it can be easily adapted in to 1:48 if preferred...

Above: Half scale bed...

materials

tools

Polystyrene off cuts White or cream tissue paper Baby wipe (no motif) White air dry clay Lace nail art stickers* PVA Adhesive

Craft knife or scalpel Scissors Metal ruler (with finger guard) Fondant cutter** Rolling pin Assorted paint brushes Assorted felt tip pens

(*optional)

(**bought online)

Paint

Pink acrylic pain (matt finish) Dirty Stone Mortar (blanket colour) (*or colours to suit)

1 Obviously to create bedding, you first need a bed. For the purpose of this project feature I am using an Edwardian (single) Bed Kit by PP. However, you can of course use whatever bed frame you like! Once the bed frame is constructed, trim a piece of polystyrene to the required size. Note: The mattress needs to fit onto the bed, but not tightly, to allow the space needed to add the bedding. Remove the mattress and set the bed frame aside.

furniture project - 1:24 (& 1:48) Full size mattresses are approximately 12” / 30cm thick, so this thickness converts to: 6mm /¼ inch for 1:48 or 12mm / ½ inch for 1:24

2 Cut out a piece of tissue paper 2cm larger than your polystyrene mattress.

Screw the piece of tissue paper up in your hand, then flatten it back out again.

Using PVA adhesive stick the tissue paper onto the mattress. Allow the tissue paper to rumple up and crease against the polystyrene. Fold and stick the sides of the tissue paper onto the side and underside of the mattress, then leave to dry completely. The mattress and sheet can be painted if required

3 Take a small piece of air dry clay and mould it into a pillow shape. I made sure that I pressed my lump of clay onto a flat surface, so that the underside of the pillow became flat. This enables the finished pillow to sit flush on the mattress when finished. Depending on whether you want your bed to appear ‘made’ or dishevelled – mold your pillows accordingly. Also at this point consider whether you want to create two stacked pillows and again; mold the clay pillows accordingly, then separate them for drying.

Leave the clay pillows to completely dry and hardened; ideally overnight.

4

To create a simple Oxford pillow case, take two pieces of tissue paper. Stick the clay pillow into the centre of one piece of tissue paper, then stick the remaining piece of paper on the top; sandwiching the clay pillow between the two pieces of tissue paper. (Like a piece of ravioli). Ensure that the edges of the tissue paper are stuck together.

Leave to dry completely, then trim away as much or as little of the excess paper to create the pillow case’s frill. Once again, the pillows can be Top tip: Use fancy scissors to trim the painted if required. edges of the tissue paper to create more elaborate pillow cases.

5 I used small lengths of ‘lace nail

6 Cut a rectangle of tissue paper suitable for a top

art’ stickers to create a faux lace effect on the edges of the pillow case. Stick the mattress and pillow(s) into position onto your bed frame and leave to dry.

sheet for your bed. Scrunch up the tissue paper sheet, then flatten it out again. Next, using PVA adhesive, stick the top sheet onto the mattress, but only apply adhesive where the blanket will conceal its application. Lay the sheet onto the bed, allowing the top section of the sheet to cover the pillows (but do not stick the tissue to the pillows). Leave to dry.

7

Dry a disposable baby wipe. Cut an appropriate size piece to create a blanket for your bed. Using your hands, apply paint to the baby wipe and then massage the paint completely into the fabric. Whilst the paint is still wet and the baby wipe is damp, gently drape the blanket over the bed. Smooth the blanket down onto the mattress to create your required effect. Leave to dry completely.

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furniture project - 1:24 (& 1:48)

8 Finally, apply a tiny amount of adhesive to the exposed side of the top sheet. Fold the top section of the top sheet back over the blanket. When dry, stick a strip of ‘nail lace sticker’ onto the exposed edge of the sheet if required. Set aside.

9 Roll out a piece of air dry clay to the thickness

Above: Half scale bed...

10 Next carefully paint the surface of the

required for your bed. Next, imprint a pattern into the surface of the clay. I used a fondant icing imprint tool to create a diamond pattern, but alternatively you could just imprint lines or a simple patchwork grid pattern by hand.

Using a sharp knife, trim away the edges of the clay to create the size eiderdown required. Whilst the clay is still wet, apply PVA to the underside of the clay, then stick the eiderdown onto the bed as required.

Leave to dry completely; ideally overnight.

eiderdown, ensuring that the paint does not go into the imprinted lines.

When dry, use felt p pens to create a floral pa ern on the painted surface of the eiderdown.

Fondant tool

Examples of other 1:24th scale bedding made using ssue paper, air dry clay & baby wipes

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Join the club

Join CLUB the

This month, we welcome the wonderful members of the Huddersfield Dollshouse & Miniatures Club and member Linda Eastwood has very kindly volunteered to tell us more about their very special group.

What is your club called?

Huddersfield Dollshouse & Miniatures Club.

How long have you been attending this club?

I’m the remaining founding member and Treasurer

When was it founded and by whom?

Founded in 1994, by Maxine and Jennifer (both sadly no longer with us) and Linda.

Do you do club projects or individual projects when you attend?

Over the last few years, the club members have decided on a kit and we then put our own slant on this and its amazing how the same kit can look so different.

How often do you meet and where?

We meet at Moldgreen Reform Church, Moldgreen, Huddersfield on 2nd Tuesday in the month at 7:30pm.

How many members does your club have?

We have 10 members at the moment, but we have had as many as 30 in the past.

Linda eastwood Club Treasurer

What kind of activities does it run?

Workshops are run by club members with yearly competitions with club members voting by bringing along 5 pennies and placing them on their favourite pieces. The one with the most pennies wins a trophy donated by founder member Jennifer's family.

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Join the club How does the club decide what they want to work on?

One of the club members has an idea and then we all discuss it and make a collective decision.

What club projects have you been involved in through it?

We have done club project on caravans, beach huts, scenes in tea cups, street party for the Queens Jubilee, Stump House, Tufty Burrows and we are now working on Port Piran.

What was your favourite club make?

We have a few; Stump House & Tufty Burrows are high on the list. We did a summer fete a few years ago and named it Midsomer Village Fete and had great fun filling the fete with murder victims.

Children loved trying to find them all, even the police on duty at the flower show were intrigued trying to guess the murderer and finding the victims.

Does the club exhibit at any events?

We exhibited yearly at Huddersfield Summer Show, in our local park but council cuts and then Covid have now ended this show. This year we were invited to

Part of our display at the Emley Show...

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ClubStump member Houses Pam Brauner

club noun/klɅb an organisation of people with a common purpose or interest, who meet regularly and take part in shared activities

Join the club

Teacups and beach huts from Seaside Miniatures

exhibit at a local agricultural show at Emley and we have been asked to return in 2025 and we also do our exhibition at another show in Mirfield.

What skill or technique have you learned through your club?

When the club started it was all 1:12th scale but now we work in smaller scales and have had to learn to scale down all our projects. We all had to learn landscaping, using a static grass machine to get a more realistic finish, woodworking, flower making, in fact anything to do with miniatures, we’ll have a go and learn through trial and error.

“

We learn from each other, share knowledge, have a social evening and lots of laughter.

Linda.

”

Beth midgley Tufty Burrows

Club Secretary www.petite-properties.com

PETITE PROPERTIES | 93

Join the club What do you get out of being a club member?

We learn from each other, share knowledge, have a social evening and lots of laughter.

What are your club’s plans for the future?

To try and increase the club membership, carry on with our love of miniatures and try to bring joy to people who think miniatures are just a dolls house Is the club open to new members joining?

Absolutely, new members are very welcome!

Linda Miniature shops in teacups...

Shirley dufton Club Chairperson

Club contact information: We have a Facebook page: Huddersfield Dollshouse and Miniaturists club Our email is:Huddersfieldminiatures@gmail.com

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Minion mo

just for

fun

Minion mo

Working hard on the PP stand...

Life at PPHQ wouldn’t be the same without Minion Mo. However, she is often the overlooked and unsung hero of our family business, who works quietly away in the background. She frequently jokes that we should call her ‘team’ instead of Mo… mainly because we get so many cards, emails and messages addressed to Tony, Bea and Team. Because of this we knew that we had to give her the opportunity to step out of the shadows, so that you could all get to know her and understand what an important cog she is in our PP wheel…

So, over to you Mo…

T

he first thing that I should probably say is - my name isn’t actually Mo! My name is Chloe. Mo is a long-standing family nickname/pet name that my Dad gave me and that I haven’t been able to shake off. Luckily, I do love being called Mo and if someone calls me Chloe; it normally means I’m in trouble!

In all honesty, I never planned to work for the family business, but somehow got sucked into Petite Properties and never made it out! Initially, I came to help Bea & Tony get through a particularly busy time and I began by working only a few days a week.

However their ‘busy time’ never seemed to end and

so I never left! Luckily however, I do love my job and I have a lot of fun doing it too!

What is the best thing about your work?

I would have to say that I really like having full creative freedom as I am very much trusted to do what I want to do. For example, when our website was looking tired, I had a vision for how it could be improved and I was able to go and build it using my own creative ideas. With my 3D printing, I am given free rein to decide what we are launching. So much of the time, I feel like I am my own boss which is really freeing and a lot of fun.

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Just for fun Describe your job at PP, what do you do?

Describing what I do can be a bit tricky, as in any family/small business you tend to do whatever is needed at the time! However, the core jobs that I focus on are; · 3D Printing · Working on this quarterly magazine · Fulfilling & processing orders · Website & online shop maintenance · Production of monthly newsletters · Social media · Procurement of stock/materials · Responding to email enquiries · Workshop organisation, admin& paper work · Health & safety at PPHQ What do you do in your spare time?

Spare time??? What’s that?? Between a full-on/full time job, my partner being in the military (which means a lot of deployments) AND 2 children, I’m not sure I have that much spare time. If I do manage to find some spare time for myself, I try to pamper myself or I’ll have my head in a book.

Favourite takeaway?

If I’m down south visiting family (St. Albans) then Chinese (the best Chinese is near my Nan’s). If I’m at home, then probably a good old chippy tea.

Readers and customers will not know that you are a voracious reader… but which genre of Mo is not only an office angel, but she is also a talented miniaturist too!

Left: La Maison De Ville (1:48) - Made by Mo

books do you prefer to devour?

I LOVE psychological thrillers; the more the story scares me, the better!! However this year, I am on a self-imposed book buying ban, as I tend to buy books quicker than I can read them! (The result is that I have books stashed EVERYWHERE!) I am also trying to read books that I wouldn’t normally pick up. Thrillers will always be my go-to, but it’s nice to change it up now and then.

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What’s your favourite season?

To be honest, I don’t think I have one. But if I have to pick, I’d say either spring or autumn. I love the brightness spring brings and the feeling of new beginnings… and on the opposite side, I like the cosiness and hunkering down of autumn.

Which Hogworts’ house would the sorting hat put you in?

I would love to say Gryffindor (who doesn’t want to be in that house, they win everything!), but looking at the qualities of each house, I would say Hufflepuff; Hard work, patience, loyalty & fair play.

If you didn’t work for PP, what do you think you would be doing?

I think there are a number of things I could possibly be doing. Many years ago I had a place at university to train as a nurse, however motherhood took over and it was something I was never able to go back to. I am also a fully qualified hairdresser and nail technician, although I still do it for family, it isn’t something I would probably be doing now. Somewhat randomly, I could imagine owning my own cleaning company, as I love to clean. (My family will also agree this is something I should have done). Tony still tells me that if I ever wanted to start one, I can – not sure if he’s trying to get rid of me though!

(Absolutely not! – Dad) What would your Mastermind subject be and why?

Mmmm…

My Mastermind subject would either be ‘stain removal’ (what to use to get certain stains out of clothes Yes I am so rock & roll!) or something relevant to the volume capacity of grip seal bags, as knowing what size bag is going to be needed is one of my super powers and comes from years of packing kits.

Mo & her family: Adam, Edward & Grace

What is the worst aspect or part of your job? (You can’t say working with your parents as we are witty and adorable! – Bea).

Worst part of my job, now that’s a tough one. I would have to say the ability to switch off. My job and the family business can take up a lot of my life and I can get very stressed; especially at our busiest times. I will always be thinking; what do I need to do? What have I forgotten to do? Don’t forget this! etc… etc…

Behind the scenes at PP, we always play to the whistle and this can be exhausting. I always want to be able to work more hours during our busy times, but as a Mum and with my partner often away this is very tricky. However, our summers are more chilled, so it isn’t always like working in a wind tunnel.

Pet peeve?

WHISTLING! I hate it. Enough said.

As well as amblers, people who don’t finish their sentences, being late and loud chewers.

Made by Mo - a selection of micro houses

If you could only eat one flavour of crisps for the rest of your life, which flavour would you choose?

To sound really boring it would be ready salted. They go with everything, pop them in a sandwich, or they go with any flavour of dip - perfect. (Although M&S truffle crisps are my absolute favourite thing in the world, but I only get them at Christmas!)

Is it fun to be part of a family business?

Fun? Yes! I love it, we have so much fun. Over the years, we have worked out a good relationship of being co-workers and then when work is over, we go back to being family members. We laugh a lot, even in rubbish situations and we all get on. I like how flexible working in a family business is and how we always have each other’s best interests at heart.

What are your PP Minion plans for 2025?

Plans for 2025 are looking big! I have 2 new printers coming soon to join my ‘triplets’, which is exciting as I have a lot of new 3D items planned. Workshops are another big plan for 2025 and I’m super excited to open the doors of the church and to welcome you all in. As Chief Minion I’m in the PP circle of trust, so I know exactly what Bea has planned for the year ahead and we’ve got some cracking new kits on the way. I think 2025 is going to be another busy, but fun year and I hope you’ll all love what we have in store.

Mo www.petite-properties.com

PETITE PROPERTIES | 97

Philip Thompson

ask

Bob

Bob's media centre

W

ell, some time ago Bob was cajoled using emotional blackmail and some arm twisting by the Petite Properties’ team to write a column entitled “Ask Bob” in their new magazine. His only qualification for doing this is that he has worked in the construction of many projects, plus he has an over enlarged ego….

He was due a holiday in Scotland and requested that whilst he was away, we were to build him an office complex with attached penthouse suite to provide a working environment for his new found media mogul status…

A trawl through the Petite Properties’ catalogue turned up the very building which would suit his needs, rather than his wants. A very ‘tongue in cheek’ choice was Crimple Cottage in 1:48th scale, a sort of lean to terrace building, which in this project had nothing to lean against. It ticked all the boxes, an office space on the ground floor with a basic flat above. Very bijou...Some say cramped, it was ordered and duly arrived.

I like to glue together the sides back and base of the kits first so I can get a visual take on the size and layout. First problem, how would Bob get into the flat? Clearly there was not enough space in the office to install a staircase so I opted to construct stairs outside.

With my trusty modellers table saw, some strips of 3mm plywood were cut for the steps. A doorway was cut into the side of the cottage to match up with where the upper floor came to using a sharp scalpel.

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On the PP Modelling Community forum (on Facebook), Bob has become quite the star.

Members enjoy following his antics and his ever growing popularity is unparalleled.

Always happy to help, Bob enthusiastically joined the PP Magazine last year and his stardom continues to rise. Ever modest, but mindful of his own needs, his grand plans for a new ‘tailored made’ media centre have come to fruition…. What’s next for this smaller scale super star? Who knows… But knowing Bob, anything is possible now that he has a swish new HQ all of his own! Bea.

Now I knew how high the flight of stairs needed to be to match up with the new doorway.

I cut enough strips of plywood in reducing lengths which when glued one on top of another reached the new upper door step.

The now fully dry part carcass was gently rubbed on a sheet of sand paper to flat each surface ready for adding brick paper. I used a design that was down loaded from the internet, a favourite of mine as it’s rustic look suits the era of this cottage. All glued

Philip thompson

down firmly with wood glue, the window and door openings were cut and trimmed. Some paper was also glued to the wall of the stairs to give a realistic match. The stair unit was finally glued to the cottage side wall.

Both interior floors were covered in 1:32nd basswood scored and stained to represent floorboards. Before gluing in the upper floor, the walls were painted and a selection of items and furniture were tacked in place in the office. With the upper floor in place, the flat was also detailed.

Lighting for both floors had been added using micro LEDs with the wiring channelled into the floor below

the floor boarding and into the back wall.

At this point I cut some stair rail timber from basswood and finished the delicate part of the external stairs.

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Philip Thompson Bob’s buddy Rufus dressed the roof with a pack of roof tile strips from Petite Properties.

I found a scrap piece of 9mm plywood some 12” in length by 8” deep to use for the base. Often seen around Victorian terrace buildings are brick walls so the saw was put to use cutting strips of 6mm basswood glued in a “u” shape to form a yard. This and an outside loo kit were covered in the same brick paper as the house.

A space on the left was just right for a Petite Properties phone box and bench fronting a tree and some foliage.

Two thirds of the base had a 3mm layer of DAS clay rolled on and then detailed with paving slabs using a 3D printed texture roller. In front of this, the base was painted with a textured acrylic material to simulate half of a tarmac road with a few pot holes thrown in.

Rufus at work...

The yard provides ample off road parking for Bob’s company car and his buddy Rufus’ bike. He also requested that his office complex would be close to a major transport hub so I 3D printed a bus stop for the front. There is a service every twenty minutes...

If you have a problem (or a question) and if no one else can help… May be you should ask Bob? Send your questions for BOB to ppmag@petitepropertiesltd.com & remember; no problem is too BIG for Bob!

“

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All in all, a small yet detailed and fun project which was given five stars by Bob on his return from Scotland.

”

Websites to visit

Issue 3

Ideas research Things i need!

Things to make Wish list

notes

Issue 4: www.petite-properties.com

1:48 Diorama

by Philip Thompson

SUMMER 2025

Cover To Cover Small Scale Content!

Small Scale Manufacturers Step By Step Projects Fabulous Features Inspirational Kit Bashing Wallpaper Printis & So Much More!

#PPmagazine

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