A Journey to the Arctic for Animal Rescue

My name is Paul Hayes and I am the proud father of a husky / shepherd named Cinder. Cinder came into my life over two years ago and she was rescued from the Victoria Humane Society. It didn’t take long to develop a connection because she fit perfectly into my lifestyle. Cinder is a trailblazer with a zest for adventure to explore new ground and her positivity radiates when she is in her element. My life has been enriched by her presence and she taught me what it means to truly love. I often hear people say pets are dependent on us to survive, but Cinder has shined light on ways I can be a better man. This has been a tough period for people during the pandemic, and one thing of many we can learn from our pets is that they consistently show up to support.

Last summer, Cinder and I embarked on an unforgettable bike tour from Victoria, BC to Hillside Beach, MB, in honour of my grandma Nelida Leslie who passed away in April 2020. Before we began our journey, Cinder had an extensive TPLO surgery to repair her cruciate ligament, and the costs to complete the operation were $5,000. I was under financial stress, so I decided to buck and split cords of wood to fundraise the operation. Without the generous contributions raised, Cinder wouldn’t have been able to have had her surgery. She was unable to walk for two months, and the bike trailer gave her comfort to relax and enjoy the journey together. I have toured by bike and trailer for the past ten years under the umbrella of We Haul 2 Play - an organization founded by myself and a former student to provide sports equipment to children living in rural areas of the world. We deliver the equipment by bike and trailer; therefore, I felt I knew what it takes to haul heavy weight on a bike, and I was ready to take my beautiful girl across the country to reflect and say goodbye to my beautiful grandmother Nelida.

This summer, Cinder and I decided to hit the road once again — this time, with a different mission. We teamed up with Broken Promises Rescue, a volunteer-run, non-profit animal rescue organization in Victoria, BC, to raise funds for animals’ procedures like Cinder’s. Last year alone, Broken Promises Rescue spent $120,000 on vet bills. To help these unwanted, neglected, and orphaned animals on Vancouver Island and beyond get the care they need to survive, Cinder and I decided to cycle from Victoria, BC to Tuktoyaktuk, NT.

Our journey began July 16th from our home in View Royal, and we left being fully aware of the unavoidable challenges we would face. I was confident in our physical, mental and emotional state to reach the Arctic Ocean, but there are variables we cannot control which intensifies our mission. It took us five days to cycle from Victoria to Port Hardy. The energy of the people we met on the island was an amazing way to start our journey. People heard about our story through the local news, and we were often greeted by cheers and donations on the road. Thank you to everyone who reached out or made an effort to stop along the way to support the cause. It kept us strong and it was nice to see that animal rescue resonated with so many people on the island. The warm-up was complete, and we found ourselves making our way to Prince Rupert ready for the unknown of the north.

Once we arrived in Prince Rupert, we spent time with people going over bear safety. This part of the journey was prone to bears as we went along the Skeena heading east towards Kitwanga. The stunning scenery of the Skeena brought back great memories because I was stationed in Burns Lake for forest firefighting and we would often visit the Skeena on days off. Once we reached Kitwanga, we headed north towards the Yukon border along the Stewart / Cassiar Highway which is 700 km of remote riding. Travelling the Stewart-Cassiar Highway you’re surrounded by spruce trees and wildflowers. Lakes, streams and creeks are abundant, and we often had the road to ourselves. From Kitwanga to Meziadin Lake it was a bear safari. We saw so many black bears it seemed like cattle crossing the road…Cinder was more fired up with seeing squirrels, and was all smiles when we came across bears on this stretch… We had bear spray, bangers ready to be deployed. I found approaching with confidence projecting your voice was enough to deter the bears. From Meziadin Lake, we made our way to Bell 2, followed by Kinashan, Dease Lake, Jade City and eventually the Yukon border. The remoteness of this stretch is always in the back of your mind. We did our best to reach people or campsites to be at ease, but having Cinder in her trailer takes work as you battle heat, hills, mosquitoes, headwinds and fatigue. However, I wouldn't do it differently because of the loyalty she brings to my life, and hopefully through our fundraising initiatives a family or individual will receive that same gift.

It took us 13 days and 1500 km cycled to reach the Yukon border. Each day we saw our fundraising totals increasing, getting closer to our mark of $20, 000. We were prepared for remote riding through the Stewart- Cassiar and when we reached the Yukon border I was expecting to reset our supplies. Heading west along the Alaska Highway towards Teslin, truck stops were shutdown from COVID and we weren’t able to restock. We had two tough days of heat, headwinds and long hours on the bike and thank you to those who gave us food so we could reach Teslin to reset. Our initiative was shared through a Yukon social network platform, in which the locals were so generous to ensure we were prepared and in good health.

The last time I was in the Yukon was in 1998 and it’s pristine…Cinder would run freely on our stops through beautiful fireweed with surrounding willows, aspen, poplar, spruce trees, lakes and mountains. Once we arrived in Whitehorse, we were $6500 from our fundraising goal, and we had to reset for the most remote part of the journey which was the Dempster Highway. As well, we had to submit a plan to enter the NWT because it was shut down to non-residents and we needed to receive an exemption. We submitted a strong plan mentioning our support for animal rescue and how we would isolate from communities. Our initial conversations with NWT were not promising, they mentioned our mission seemed one of leisure. I was quick to point out that cycling with a dog unsupported, fundraising and camping off grid is far from a leisure activity. In the end, we were accepted and I was grateful we could complete our mission to the Arctic Ocean.

Before we began our journey on the Dempster, we left Whitehorse cycling through many crossings and lakes to reach Dawson City. We found ourselves at Fox Lake, Carmacks, Pelly / Stewart Crossing and Moose Creek. Once we arrived in Dawson, we enjoyed the gold rush city and took a day off to get prepared for our remote push on the Dempster which is 740 km of gravel road.

Our first day on the Dempster, we arrived at Tombstone National Park. The road was a grind as we battled through rain, mud and hit a storm at the end. We luckily found a day hut for shelter at the campground as we couldn’t find a site to set up. The following day we cycled through Tombstone and we only covered 30 km in the first four hours because I was blown away by its beauty. We slowly took in the surrounding views and Cinder was able to run free in the open fields. We made it to Engineer Creek, cycling until midnight reaching a campground 120 km from Tombstone with amazing views of the Ogilvie Mountains. Day 3 and 4 on the Dempster were tough as we were climbing for most of the day. The road is soft sand in many parts which makes it a slow haul. We camped along the ridge line of the plains and the silence was surreal. Since we’ll go hours without seeing someone, I trained Cinder to walk on the right side to help me out on the climbs.

Reaching Eagles Plains, you’re greeted with a sign that mentions the total population which is nine people. There is a lodge to enjoy food, and we were able to stay in a room to take a break from the tent life. The following day we arrived at the Arctic Circle which is a moment I’ll never forget. As we approached the sign, I had tears in my eyes because we were officially in the tundra. I looked back at Cinder who was smiling, present and she was back to her tundra roots. It was a special moment to share with her and hard to believe we found ourselves getting closer to Tuktoyaktuk.

We continued our day cycling towards a campsite called Rock River. Before we arrived at our resting site, a mother and daughter made a stop in their vehicle to warn us that they were charged by a mother grizzly bear where we would be camping. Camping in the Yukon you’re able to spend time in day areas which are gazebos with a wood-stove and we decided to stay inside to avoid any potential conflict with the family of bears. The following day, we saw the family of bears in the open tundra 5 km away from Rock River. We flagged down a motorcyclist to ride with us, and we went by unharmed, humbled by the presence of these amazing animals. I have accepted there are situations that won’t provide comfort no matter how many times you’ve taken the risk, and this one in particular is an example.

Camping on the Dempster you’re surrounded by the unknown and you have to let go to relax through the evening. I feel the Dempster creates a community of people helping one another, regardless of the remote stretches. People are communicating from south to north and I can’t tell you how many times we were offered help. Going through the NWT, we received roadside dinner of caribou meat, smoked fish, bannock and even a plate of pasta!

It was a battle to make our way to Inuvik as it rained most days, which turned the road into mud. The hill climbs were challenging. Cinder and I worked together to make ground and her resilience to keep going was amazing. Breaking down camp, riding 12 hours, setting up once again and preparing our food has been the routine of this tour. We were prepared for this stretch with supplies from Whitehorse and we made it through together as we embarked on our final two days to Tuktoyaktuk…The remoteness of the past nine days on the Dempster made us face our fears. The quote by Brené Brown, “You can choose courage or comfort, but not at the same time" comes to mind when describing our experiences on this stretch of our trip.

As we left Inuvik, we had 150 km to arrive at the Arctic Ocean. We left this NWT town surpassing our fundraising goals and it was now time to complete our journey. This road was similar to the Dempster in the sense it’s a gravel road, but without major hill climbs. 40 km from Inuvik, there is a distinctive tree line which you reach, and the standing timber is now behind you. Riding the open, barren land, you’re surrounded by lakes right to left and we were blessed to see the changing fall colours. On the road, we were greeted by locals from Tuktoyaktuk, who were excited to meet us and listen to our story. We rode until sunset and we found ourselves 30 km from the Arctic Ocean. We set up camp and hunters were taking advantage of the weather, riding their skidoos, bringing back the game they retrieved in the tundra. We woke up to a beautiful morning and it was time to finish our final ride.

As we came into Tuktoyaktuk, emotions released from the support we received throughout our journey. Pamela, the director of Broken Promises Rescue, organized a beautiful greeting at the Arctic Ocean point, and my friend Michelle met us 8 km out from our final destination to direct us all the way to the end. We were welcomed with cheers and tears filled my eyes as Cinder and I made it safely. We are proud of the community that was created through this tour to support animal rescue, and in the end the efforts of our donors raised $23,000 for Broken Promises Rescue….

From Victoria to Tuktoyaktuk, we met so many wonderful people that guided and motivated us to the end. It was a life changing journey which we owe to everyone who showed support through messages, contributions and believed in the mission. It took us 34 days, 3385 km of cycling to reach the Arctic Ocean and we can’t thank our supporters enough for all they’ve done to support this amazing organization! Thank you to Pamela for extending the opportunity to be a part of her team. Her passion for rescue is inspiring and we are so proud of the work she does for animals in need…

Cinder is my life and we’ve created lifelong memories through our adventures. This trip was meant to be and everything led to the Arctic. Our next adventure will take us back to Tuktoyaktuk because I have been offered a teaching position in this wonderful community. I’ve always wanted to teach in an indigenous community and throughout our journey I was so impressed how people were truly connected to the land as a way of life. I’m seeking a life of less comfort and more resilience, surrounded by people with similar values. It’s also worth mentioning that I met a beautiful woman at the end, and I would be a fool not to go…

Thank you to everyone for coming along a journey we will never forget.

To our next adventure,

Paul and Cinder